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Replies to questions re. crop marks, glass plates and copyright as it applies to models



Many thanks to all who responded to my recent requests for help on assorted
subjects. Here's a summary of what I got back:

Cropping marks: 9 replies

Don't remove them: 5
 Why?  Possibility of damaging the image: 1
  Possible historic value: 2
  Let the user remove them digitally: 1
  Don't remove them if they were used in a significant
publication: 1
  Part of the artifact: 1
  Part of the story of the photo. Who made the marks, why and
for what purpose?: 2
  Evidence of publication: 1
  Evidence of the editorial process: 2
  Documents the pre-electronic eras of photographs and their
handling: 1
  May change integrity of the record: 1
Removal should be done only on a case-by-case basis after weighing the
issues cited above: 1
Don't remove them unless the photo is of great artistic importance on its
own terms and there are no duplicates: 1
OK to remove them: 3
 Only if the marks are an obvious blight on the artist's intentions:
1
 How?  Cotton balls: 1
  Cotton cloth: 2
  Soft tissue: 1
  Photowipe: 1
  Don't use solvent, as it will dilute the wax and stain the
photopaper: 1
  Use PEC12, but be careful to follow instructions: 2
  Digitally: 1
Other info:
 Removal may leave a vestigal black or red haze, depending on the age
of the marks and the oil content of the wax-based carrier.


Glass plate negatives:

Gelatin plates versus collodion plates: 2 replies.
Gelatin plates: Very straight and even edges from mechanical application of
gelatin. Glass is usually 1/16".
Collodion plates: Usually more uneven thickness and uneven at the edges
because of manual application of collodion. Silver image with
creamy-grayish-yellow hue, although some black/blue images exist. Glass is
usually thicker (1/8"), roughly cut and normally varnished. Glass may
deteriorate; watery droplets may form on the inside of the glass, and the
glass may secrete fluids which may attack the emulsion
Test with a small drop of alcohol on the edge of the plate. Alcohol does not
affect gelatin.

Storage: 4 replies
 Store in four-flap enclosures: 2
 Store on edge, spaced in small batches with stiff supports in
between to reduce cumulative weight: 1
 Store on long edge in appropriately sized document cases or photo
storage boxes, being careful not to make it too heavy: 1
 Allow a finger's worth of space in the back of the box for removal:
1
 Interleave with mat board or foam core to keep negatives of varying
sizes separated from each other: 1
 OK to store in baked-enamel file cabinets: 1
 Very cold storage usually not recommended: 1
 Store in constant temperature and humidity: 1
 Contact a photo conservator. Use American Institute for Conservation
(http://aic.stanford.edu or info@aic-faic.org ).
 If any are broken, put pieces in a four-flap enclosure between two
pieces of ¼" foamcore and tie it snugly with cotton tape.

Copyright and scale models:

Replies: 5

Commercially produced models would normally have the approval of companies
whose names they bear: 1
Commercially produced models are usually licensed by the companies whose
names they bear: 1
Companies may be leery of product liability in event of accident involving
scale models bearing their names (i.e., child swallows a piece).
Actually a trademark issue, as opposed to copyright: Trademark infringement
suit can be brought if the use of the mark creates confusion in the
marketplace or dilutes the importance and/or meaning of the original mark.

Models built for personal use should be free of copyright or trademark
infringement concerns: 4
Models built for personal use could be grounds for a "cease and desist"
action by the company whose name they bear: 1

Thanks again.

Best wishes,

Thomas Berry, Archivist
Historical Construction Equipment Association
16623 Liberty Hi Road
Bowling Green, Ohio 43402
Phone 419-352-5616
Fax 419-352-6086
tberry@wcnet.org
http://www.hcea.net

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