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Re: Good Fryday



Well, some of us did give up KK's for Lent.  And while we're remembering
things past, back in the dark ages of my youth, the Episcopal Church
celebrated Morning Prayer 3 Sundays a month; the 4th Sunday we had Communion
- also known as "doughnut" Sunday, since KK's were served after the
service.  I know what I'm having for breakfast on Sunday.
Julia Logan
Charleston, SC

Michael Tarabulski wrote:

> A SMALL, GOOD THING,
>                                         or,
>                      OU SONT LES BEIGNETS D'ANTAIN?
>
> You would have to talk about donuts, doughnuts, dough-naughts, during
> Lent, wouldn't you? They have been my favorite bakery item ever since I
> can remember.  Not that I've given them up as once I might or must have.
> Could be that some people have, though, so luckily relief is just around
> the corner of  Saturday.  I did give up chocolate, as did daughter
> Lilly, and we look forward to breaking that fast with chocolate eggs for
> Easter breakfast.  I've cut back on my donut consumption but I donut
> think I could give them up altogether.  Too many memories.
>
> Babcia moja, my father's mother, Michalyna, used to make punczki
> following some recipe she'd learned in Poland before emigrating in
> 1911.  We grandchildren would sit at her table and eat them fresh from
> the kettle, rolled in sugar and cinnamon or shaken in a bag of snowy
> powdered sugar. So enduring was this recipe that I tasted fried,
> yeast-raised donuts just like that in Poland four years ago in the homes
> of my cousins.  Polish bakeries, too, make something like them. A
> favorite kind are filled with rose-petal jam, a delicacy something on
> the order of  the Moctezuma's hummingbird tongue salad. In the days just
> prior to Lent, particularly the preceding Thursday, Poles buy and eat
> great quantities of punczki, rose-petal jam filled and less exotic
> sorts. Used to be they would then not eat donuts until Easter. Now they
> just cut back to one a day.
>
> My mother used to make a great yeast-raised donut, using the Fannie
> Farmer Cook Book recipe. Of these I recall the hint of nutmeg, a spice
> we seldom met with elsewhere. From infancy through gradeschool winters I
> remember times when supper consisted of nothing but piles of these
> donuts, (done up again in one's choice of sugar) and large glasses of
> cold, fresh milk.  After we'd sold our last cow we had to walk to the
> neighbor's farm across the valley (really uphill both ways) to fetch
> milk.  It was worth it, even though you could then scarcely pick up a
> glass in hands made hooks from the cold and eight pounds of milk toted a
> country mile.  In later years my mother told me that she would make
> donuts like this when we had little else to eat in the house, money
> having run out. She knew that the fat and sugar would satisfy us.
> Indeed, it did that and more.  Donut days were better than snow days off
> from school.  And when the two coincided, it was like, like, like,
> Friday the 13th, except, except, except completely lucky.
>
> Famously, in toddlery, I disrupted a church service by persistently
> calling out, "I want a donut. I want a donut."  I do not recall the
> incident except as a family and neighborhood story, but I expect I
> wanted one made by either my grandma or my mother.  In memory they
> remain my touchstones of donutness, and all the donuts I meet and greet
> and eat nowadays are feeble substitutes.  However, as feeble substitutes
> go, the apple fritters in the cafe above my office are some of the
> best.  I think I'll have one when I go in later today. Won't you join
> me?
>
> Yours, in search of times lost,
>
> Michael "Donoughting 'til you hear from me" Tarabulski
> Titanic Night
> Moscow, Idaho
>
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Problems?  Send e-mail to Robert F Schmidt <rschmidt@lib.muohio.edu>