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Re: labelling tin types



Northern States Conservation Center (NSCC) has a great web site with
includes information on applying numbers to a variety of types of objects.
http://www.collectioncare.org/

When you get to the home page click on "Collection Care" and then click on
"Numbering".

The following is the section on concerns of using nail polish as the
barrier coat.  The recommended product is Acryloid B-72 in Acetone or
Acryloid B-67 in P- Benzine.

"Applying a barrier coat

"The rationale for using barrier coats is that a clear lacquer layer will
prevent inked numbers from bleeding into an object and allow for easy
removal if necessary. However, this theory becomes invalid if the barrier
material damages the object or the ink bleeds through the barrier. A wide
variety of clear coating materials has been used over time. Here are a few
commonly used barrier coats, with comments as to their properties:

"(1) Clear nail polish has poor aging properties because its primary
ingredient is cellulose nitrate. It stains and damages surfaces as it
yellows and darkens. It eventually peels off. Despite these problems, nail
polish continues to be used by many museums because it is easy to obtain
and to apply. It is not recommended for use because it will damage your
collection.

"(2) Acryloid/Paraloid B-72 resin has the best aging properties of any
barrier coat material. It is usually used as a 25 % solution (weight to
volume) in acetone, toluene, a mix of acetone and toluene, or ethanol. The
solvents will damage plastics and painted surfaces. This material will be
absorbed into porous surfaces and will be difficult to remove completely.
It has poor working properties: it becomes gummy and stringy requiring the
addition of solvents.  Many catalogers complain that it requires a long
time to dry (toluene releases gradually from this resin), and high relative
humidity may affect its properties. Acetone solutions often bubble, making
them impossible to write on. It forms a brittle barrier film. If used in
unventilated areas, the solvent fumes, especially toluene, are a health
risk to the cataloger. Because of all those factors, use Acryloid/Paraloid
B-72 only on unpainted, non-porous surfaces in well-ventilated rooms. Place
the solution in a brush top bottle, such as an empty, clean nail polish
bottle, for easy application. If it bubbles, use a slower evaporating
solvent in the solution, such as toluene.

"3) Acryloid/Paraloid B-67 resin will yellow slightly with time. The resin
dissolves slowly in Naptha, mineral spirits, Stoddard solvent, petroleum
benzine, or white spirits (all similar petroleum distillates). These
solvents are less likely to solvate painted surfaces. They will dissolve
oils and waxes. The resin has better working properties than the
Acryloid/Paraloid B-72 resin, however there have been some complaints about
slow drying. Typically, the barrier coat dries within minutes. The barrier
coat will be difficult to remove - it does not rapidly dissolve in any
solvent. But it will eventually dissolve in one of the solvents mentioned
above. As with Acryloid/Paraloid B-72 resin, the barrier film is brittle.
TEST first, before using Acryloid/Paraloid B-67 on painted or unpainted
non-porous surfaces.  Do not use on wax figures. Again, apply only in a
well-ventilated room."

Susan Garwood-DeLong
Archives Manager
Carleton College
One North College Street
Northfield, MN 55057
507-646-4270
sgarwood@carleton.edu

--On Wednesday, 27 June, 2001 12:31 PM -0500 Catherine Bruck
<bruck@IIT.EDU> wrote:

If you want to use the museum method...

Paint a small line on clear nail polish (the polish, not the undercoat or
topcoat; buy a good quality name brand) about as wide as the brush and as
long as you need for the label on the back of the tintype.  Let it dry
thoroughly; you may even want to put on a second coat.  Then use a felt
tip pen -- one that will write on polyester film and dry instantly and
won't wipe off when you run your finger over it.  Some of the archival
supply houses sell such pens to write on photo sleeves. I use the Sharpie
extra fine point pen which is available most anywhere that stationary
supplies are sold, but it's the only name brand one I've found that will
work.  Write the information on the polish line, and then cover it with
another coat of nail polish.  This is safe to use on metals, glass,
lithic materials, finished wood, finished leathers, and most hard
plastics.  Don't use on fabrics and paper, which means you can use it on
the tintype mount if the tintype happens to be in a wooden case as long
as the case isn't covered with the paper made to look like leather.  This
method is reversible by dissolving the nail polish with acetone (polish
remover), but acetone may also remove some paints and varnishes and will
dissolves some plastics.

Catherine Bruck
University Archivist
Illinois Institute of Technology
Paul V. Galvin Library
35 W. 33rd St.
Chicago, IL  60616
312/567-6840
312/567-5318 (FAX)
bruck@iit.edu

-----Original Message-----
From: Archives & Archivists [mailto:ARCHIVES@LISTSERV.MUOHIO.EDU]On
Behalf Of Michael Ridderbusch
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 10:44 AM
To: ARCHIVES@LISTSERV.MUOHIO.EDU
Subject: labelling tin types


6/27/01

We would like to label tintypes in our collection
and are seeking a few recommendations from
the collective wisdom of the list.  We would prefer
a method that is easily reversible.



<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>
Michael R. Ridderbusch
West Virginia and Regional History Collection
West Virginia University Libraries, Colson Hall
Morgantown, WV  26506-6464

mridder@wvu.edu
phone   304-293-3536
fax     304-293-3981
http://www.libraries.wvu.edu/wvcollection/index.htm
<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>

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