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Re: [nafex] Re: mycorrhizal fungi?



There are two main types of myco for fruit and nut growers, as far as 
I understand: endo and ecto, ecto being more for pine. I'm kind of 
doubting that the same host plants would suffice for both. Do you 
know?
Kevin B

Hi Folks:
I know I am going to regret this, 1st of all, this season I gave away hundreds of dollars 
in FREE Samples with very little return. This broke the bank and made me re-think the
process. The reason why I divulged that is because, 1. I would never become associated 
with something I don't believe in and 2. The results I got were astounding, which warranted 
me to get involved in the 1st place. And 3. I would never steer anyone especially a fellow
NAFEXer the wrong way, (knowingly).
I grow citrus and borderline tropical/edibles. 2 years ago when 1st introduced to Myco I
applied the myco to root balls of the citrus and within 3 months they had become pot bound.
This usually only occurs in a 6 to 8 month period. The citrus exhibited lush growth and flower
set was incredible. I was amazed at the results.
I have an heirloom tomato that has been in my family for years and is in a developmental
stage of breeding. I applied the myco to the  (Tomato-starts) and had to top them in
the 3rd week of July at 7 feet. These are indeterminates and are subject to blossom end rot
and septoria and verticullum. Well...... Could be the soil conditioning, could be the fact that I used
raised beds because of wicked moles/voles but I averaged over 20oz fruits that bent the fruit 
branches and subsequently needed to be tied back to the stalks just to ripen. And no disease.
These were inoculated at plant time, go figure?
I was never told by my manufacturer how to grow or sustain myco for obvious reasons but I
wanted to know and found the info while searching a year ago and will try to find the data of
which I referenced the myco being sustainable in Pine. I think it's Ectomycorrhizae.
I think that because only a few people have known about myco since the 40's that the jury is still
out on impartial research and what Tom had found out yesterday through the scientist was a very
big surprise to me. I don't dispute what he was told, as it sounded like a viable way of perpetuating
myco. And then again, myco's are or are not helpful depending on the target crop or the strain/s 
of, Myco. There are now formulations for specific crops.... Unlike a year or two ago.

The poor results Bernie & Del experienced, I haven't a clue as so many variables could have 
happened and dictated a poor environ and sad results. I do know all myco's are not the same.
Claylike soil, overwet conditions, nematodes, too much nitrogen, lack of humus, old outdated
product there are so many variables..... 
I would not even venture a guess. But what Tom said that myco does develop underground is 
true, it will invade an area in the rhizosphere up to ten times where it was 1st introduced and 
in some cases even farther than that! And it lives on year after year!
I used a salt shaker to inoculate the tomato plants and when I pulled them out last week to
burn them (as usual to destroy disease) (I have a pvc trellis that allows me to extend the season)
the root balls were immense. The feeder roots were 5 feet long. Worked for me? Again, go figure.


Below is the link to the manufacturer's web site which has a litany of info which should
answer and dispel a lot of the queries here. Hopefully.

http://www.bio-organics.com/FAQs.html

I swear by Myco.........

I know a little about this but am not a scientist nor an expert. Just a grower and a former 
Organic's retail distributor and of course a NAFEXer 1st....
( My apologies, Lon & Doreen I had to bail, I broke the bank.)

Going on the 2nd strait day here of record warmth in Southern, NH.
Best wishes,
~Gianni





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