To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Cc: london@helios.oit.unc.edu
Subject: Carrot Fly FAQ (fwd)
Carrot Fly FAQ V. 1.0 by Ronald Lowe
[ Part 2: "Attached Text" ]
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Given below is version 1.0 of the Carrot Fly FAQ.
The author would like to offer sincere thanks to all those who took time
and trouble to read the Draft. Their comments, criticisms, suggestions,
(and indeed praise), were just what was needed to spur him on to finish
this FAQ.
It is the intention of the author not to update this FAQ until the autumn.
He hopes that at that time he will receive shoals of mail from anybody
and everybody telling him how good / bad their Carrot crop was, and how
effective / ineffective were the preventive measures they took.
In the meantime comments on v1.0 will always be welcome.
--
Ron Lowe (arlo@we118can.demon.co.uk)
Wisdom comes in 10 parts, 9 of which are silence.
The tenth is brevity of language.
(Old Scottish proverb).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CARROT FLY FAQ. VERSION 1.O (6TH FEBRUARY 1996)
This FAQ will be maintained by Ron Lowe,
(arlo@we118can.demon.co.uk), to whom all correspondence should be
sent.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before you start remember the old military maxim
"Know your Enemy"
GOOD READING
(1). Organic Gardening. 1988 version. Author Roy Lacey.
Approved by the Soil Association.
ISBN.0-7153-9175-5
(2). Which? Guide to Pests and Diseases. 1991 version.
ISBN. 0-340-55000-7
(3). Know and Grow Vegetables. 2 paperbacks.
ISBN. 0-19-857547-5 (book 1)
0-19-286017-8 (book 2)
( My copies now quite old, 1979 & 1982. May be out of print).
(4). Garden Pests and Diseases. R.H.S. 1992 version. Soft back.
ISBN. 1-85732-906-6
(5). Which? Guide to Gardening without Chemicals. 1990 version.
ISBN. 0-340-52796-X
Excluding (3) all may be available in your local library.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CARROT FLY
(Psila rosea)
1. WHAT IS A CARROT FLY ?
An adult carrot fly is a very small black fly which has been described as
"a low flying miniature cruise missile". The fly is reputed to be attracted
to the Carrots by smell. It lays it's eggs in the soil adjacent to the
Carrot(s). The grub of the fly over-winters in the ground gorging itself on
your Carrots, pupates and lays eggs in early spring. Eggs will ideally be
laid near to Carrots but Parsley, (and Cow Parsley), Celery, (and
possibly Parsnips), are also liked. After the spring generation have
hatched they lay eggs in June and July and this generation hatches and
matures in enough time to have another frenzy of egg laying August /
September time.
2. HOW DO I KNOW MY CARROTS HAVE GOT THE FLY ?
Basically you will not know until you lift the crop. In severe infestations
the first sign is that the Carrot leaves look an orange / reddish / rusty
colour. They then turn yellow. On lifting an affected Carrot it will be seen
that the root end will be black or dark. Close examination of what appear
to be good Carrots may reveal small holes in the Carrot. If Carrots are
put in a bucket of water badly affected ones will come to the surface.
This however does not mean that those which do not float are totally
unaffected.
3. I THINK MY CROP IS AFFECTED. WHAT DO I DO ?
Lift the crop. There is no point in leaving them in the ground as all you
are doing is giving the carrot fly maggot ideal board and lodgings. Give
the Carrots the bucket of water test and discard any which come to the
surface. Of the others you may, with a bit of judicious cutting and
scraping, be able to salvage something. Any you consider eatable open
freeze for 24 hours, or blanch and freeze, then bag and store.
4. CAN I PREVENT CARROT FLY ATTACKS ?
There are 5 options you may wish to try...
1. Companion planting.
2. Prevent the fly getting to the carrots.
3. Apply an insecticide to the soil to prevent eggs hatching.
4. Use a fly resistant variety.
5. Careful timing.
Lets look at the options...
4.1. It is thought that if a screen of strong smelling vegetables is
planted around the row(s) of carrots it will deter the fly. Onions or Garlic
are usually used. However Carrots are an all the year crop whereas
Onion and Garlic are usually of sufficient height for a couple of months of
the year only. Most gardeners will have lifted their Onions and Garlic well
before the fly is at it's most numerous in the early Autumn. You could try
the newish spring onions of the Ishikuro type that can be picked at
almost any stage from small to leek size.
(gareth@swansea.demon.co.uk).
4.2. This is a fairly satisfactory method. The author grows his early
Carrots in a cold frame which is about 28" tall at the rear and 12"
tall at the front. A percentage of the crop is usually affected, (very
roughly 10 - 15%).
Good Reading (1) suggests building a screen approx 18" high
around the Carrot rows using stakes and polythene sheeting.
Other suggestions are...
1. This year I used fleece on a number of crops - very impressed.
If you can bear to have your garden looking like a snowscape, this
will give much earlier crops and will protect from most flying insects
such as carrot fly and cabbage white butterflies.
(gareth@swansea.demon.co.uk).
2. I grew carrots under loose agryl fleece with the carrots pushing it
up as they grow and I got pretty clean carrots This was in the vale
of York where carrot fly is terrible. The only problem was taking it
off to weed properly which was a hassle. (uhba023@rhbnc.ac.uk).
3. Have you tried growing them under that gauze matting type of
thing, it has a name, but I can't remember it. It lets enough light
and rain through, but keeps the pesky carrot flies out. It is also
used to bring on early crops etc. (R.C.Dobson@ncl.ac.uk).
4. Marshalls are selling a new product "Enviromesh" for crop
protection. It can be laid over hoops. It's more expensive than
fleece (?15.75 for 15ft x 7ft) but is supposed to last at least 5
years. (mjl@jet.uk).
Suggested Suppliers of Fleeces.
Netlon Ltd
Kelly Street
Blackburn
Lancs
BB2 4PJ
(01254) 262431
----
Nortene Ltd
Linenhall House
Stanley Street
Chester
CH1 2LR
(01244) 346193
----
Pan Products Ltd
Faraday Road
Aylesbury
Bucks
HP19 3RY
The first two I believe do both screens and fleece, the last only
ground cover materials. (rob@mgctech.demon.co.uk).
-----
Agriframes - (01342)319111 7.95 UKP for 40*5 ft roll. A local
nursery sells it by the metre off a huge roll. I can't remember the
price, but it was the cheapest by far and you can get it cut to the
length of your beds - overlapping smaller bits is a pain.
(gareth@swansea.demon.co.uk).
4.3.1. There are a great many brands of insecticide on sale in garden
centres and ironmongers. The author spent quite a bit of time in 3
local centres reading labels and not once did he find the words
"carrot fly". It would appear that using chemicals may be a bit hit
or miss. However Good Reading (4) suggests the following...
When sowing treat the seed drill with diazinon and chlorpyrifos,
phoxim, (however see para 4.3.2. below).
This will protect the plants for about 6 - 8 weeks. Carrots not to be
lifted until the autumn should also be watered thoroughly in late
August with spray strength pirimiphos-methylin
2. There are few insecticides available to amateur gardeners for the
following reasons. Firstly to do the job strong products are needed
which are generally too toxic for amateurs to use. Secondly
Carrots have a habit of accumulating pesticide in the root and
therefore only chemicals which are poorly systemic are generally
used. Normally the soil is treated and not the Carrot. Thirdly
amateur usage often requires different residue trials to be carried
out and under EU rules for North Europe only this can cost over
100,000 per product per crop. Minor uses such as carrot fly is
unlikely to be supported in the future.
At present only a few products have carrot fly as an approved use.
Chlorophos (PBI) containing diazinon & chlorpyrifos
Soil Pest Killer (Miracle) containing pirimiphos-methyl
Both are dusts used at sowing or transplanting. Pirimiphos-methyl
(Sybol) drench can be used afterwards but is bound onto organic
matter and will not penetrate far into the soil.
Caution...There are no other actives approved for amateur use that I
am aware of. Phoxim approvals (Murphy Soil Pest Killer) were
revocated in 1994 with a sell out period to the end of 1996 (I
believe). (rob@mgctech.demon.co.uk).
4.4.1 Marshalls sell a variety called Sytan that is claimed to be less
attacked by carrot fly than other varieties. In the past 2 years, my
experience is that their claim is fully justified. It doesn't taste quite
as good as a true Nantes, but is close.
I recommend it. Sytan is 1.16 for a medium packet, 1.75 for a
large one, but there is also postage - see the catalogue for details.
(nmm1@cam.ac.uk).
2. The resistant varieties like T&M 'Flyaway' (I think!) are getting
quite good press. (gareth@swansea.demon.co.uk).
3. Good Reading (5) suggests the quick maturing variety Nandor.
5.1 If using fleece or other barrier method the seeds can be sown in
Feb / March and lifted in July leaving clear soil before the major
problem of second generation larvae develops.
Secondly delay sowing until early June and sow thinly. The carrots
are then quite young at the second generation egg laying time and
are less attractive. If sown thinly they will not need to be thinned
and therefore not produce the odour of damaged carrot which will
really attract the fly. If the carrots are then lifted in October /
November (they will be small but relatively uninfested) any
remaining larvae are left without a source of food and die over
winter.
5. ANYTHING ELSE I CAN DO ?
As the fly is reputed to be attracted to Carrots by smell it would suggest
that care should be taken when harvesting to prevent as far as possible
any bruising of the foliage. Good spacing may help in this respect. As
Carrot seed is notoriously difficult to sow perhaps trying pelleted seeds
may help.
Do >
Transfer interrupted!
From klier@cobra.uni.eduSun Apr 9 22:50:55 1995
Date: 14 Mar 95 17:46:37 -0600
From: klier@cobra.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Info in growing carrots from seed?
In article <3k491g$bko@netnews.upenn.edu>, swirsky@umis.upenn.edu (Ted Swirsky) writes:
>
> My daughter likes carrots and insisted we buy some seeds. Are carrots
> difficult to grow? Any special requirements besides deep, loosened soil?
>
> We are in South Jersey. Thanks!
Carrots are very easy to grow.... easiest in sandy or peaty soils, because
the roots brush penetrate the soil easily and "grow straight", and the
soil brushes off easily for harvest. If you've got a heavy, clay-ey
soil, you can either grow little round carrots (these are special
cultivars), or you can dig a pit, fill it with sand and compost
mixture and grow in that.
Look around and you'll probably see several cultivars of carrots: why
not try several kinds? Some I particularly like are:
Nantes Coreless, a classic "big carrot", like from the store
Bolero, with a cylindrical root and good flavor
Planet, a baby carrot, one of the ball shaped ones for heavy soil,
but excellent flavor
Little Finger, a small carrot, of the "gourmet baby carrot" persuasion.
Carrots do take a while to germinate, and sometimes carry a seedcoat
virus that wreaks havoc on the crop. To help both problems, soak
carrot seed in milk for 24 hours before planting (use a shallow
dish, like a saucer, and any milk... skim or whole. The milk
proteins inactivate the virus). Plant the presoaked seed in
moist soil, and keep the seeds moist until they germinate, about
2-3 weeks in cooler temperatures. Cover the seeds in the row
with a couple of layers of gunny sack if you're concerned with
soil drying out... remove it when the plants sprout. Don't forget
to thin the rows of young carrots, since most of us plant the seeds
much too closely together. An inch or so apart is the spacing I
aim for when I plant carrot seeds, but I usually seem to wind up
with 2-3 carrots per inch... and you've got to (whining sound!)
pull the extras so that the remainder can develop properly.
Mixing the seed with sand when you're planting it can help get the
seeds a bit more spread out initially.
Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu
From mem7c@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU Tue Nov 29 19:37:07 EST 1994
Article: 48571 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!caen!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU!mem7c
From: mem7c@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Michael E. Matthews)
Subject: Making Compost FAQ (long)
Message-ID:
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: uva
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 1994 20:48:48 GMT
Lines: 641
The following is a collection of composting advice from Jim
McNelly, aka Mr. Compost. Long-time readers of rec. gardens
will know him well. It is a compilation of some of his replies
to various questions from this group. It contains the
essentials of composting. If anyone has other of his posts
saved, I would sure like to recieve them.
Michael Matthews in central VA
***************************
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Composting 101
From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
Message-ID: <36.2009.2817.0N42A21F@granite.mn.org>
Date: Thu, 19 May 94 02:51:00 +0600
Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372
As requested, here is my recipe for home composting.
Mulching (leaving things in layers) is easier than "piling"
organic residues, but there is a place for passive compost
piles as well. But for those who desire to make an active,
hot, compost pile that is ready for curing in three to four
weeks, here is my tried and true formula for cooking hot
compost.
Active composting is a BATCH process. It differs from passive
piles that just sit there or continuous flow systems where
stuff is periodically dumped on top of the material already in
the bin.
1. PREPARE THE AREA: Avoid walls and fences that can rot and
discolor. Stay within reach of the hose. Choose a spot away
>from drainage swales and roof overflow. Avoid low spots where
water can stand or pond. Leave plenty of room to access with
pitch fork and wheel barrow. The area should be from 6'x6' up
to 12'x9'.
2. CHOOSE YOUR BIN. Small yards use enclosed plastic,
preferably insulated bins. Large yards use larger open air
designs without covers. Large doors are better than small ones.
Three stage systems are best, but only one, maybe two bins are
active at any given time. The three stages are stockpiling,
active composting, and curing. Curing piles do not need bins.
3. STOCKPILING: Since active composting is a batch process, it
requires a full bin of material and this usually requires
stockpiling. Materials easy to store include leaves, wood
mulch, pine needles and cones, old compost, and shredded paper.
4. INOCULATING: Active composting is helped by adding old
compost or leaf mould as an inoculant. This can range from 10%
up to 50% from the curing pile or the still-cooking, last
batch. Avoid soil except as a last resort. Use bagged compost
or manure if starting for the first time. Packaged inoculants
do no harm, and may even help, but are not a substitute for old
compost.
5.MIXING and 6. WATERING: Layer your various ingredients
OUTSIDE THE BIN, watering each layer as you go. Think "Green
and Brown". Add 10% bulky matter like wood chips to keep the
pile loose to avoid matting. THEN fork the layers into the bin,
mixing as you go, blending wet with dry, watering as necessary.
Water like a seed bed, avoiding runoff. The mix should end up
50% moisture like a damp sponge. Now and during the 3 weeks of
active composting is the time to add table scraps. Avoid adding
lime, it can disturb the natural pH shift and delay
decomposition.
7. AERATE: Like any other form of livestock, your "herd" of
bacteria needs food, air, and water. You have added food with a
balance of carbon and nitrogen, which is the green and brown.
You just added water. Now the bacteria need air. Old compost
theory suggests that you "turn the pile for aeration; recent
studies show that a pile uses up its oxygen in as little as 1/2
hour after turning.
Like a barbecue or a fireplace grate, a pile needs ventilation.
This is provided through a passive aeration base. Some use
brush, stalks, screen on boards, rocks, wood chips, flat
aeration pipe, other mechanism to let air infiltrate at the
base from outside. The air will rise up due to the convection,
chimney effect, of warm air rising. With wood chips added, the
pile will self aerate with an aeration grate without turning.
Poking the pile from the top down to the base with a piece of
rebar or 1/4" rod every 6" will break up mats and provide extra
air channels.
The pile will begin active composting within 48 hours and cook
by itself. You can help the process by mixing at least once
after a week, sort of like stirring the coals, adding moisture
as necessary. When it is not frozen outside, I make a compost
batch every 2 weeks, often using half cooked compost from two
weeks previously to mix with the fresh grass clippings.
Personally, I bag my grass because I like making and using
compost, but letting the clippings lie is a fine way to avoid
the effort of active composting.
Follow these steps toward batch composting and you will see the
pile heat and cook, giving off the steam of life as it
decomposes. I think everyone should experience the pleasure of
having a compost pile cook well at least *once* in their lives.
Two last tips, *underwatering* is the largest single cause of
slow composting. Piles in *standing* water is the number one
cause of odors.
Have fun!
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
Granite Connection 612-259-0801
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* May 19th - What's all this fuss about endangered feces?
DF>Problem: I have a "by the book" compost heap that is not
generating heat.
Sounds like you should compost that book Dave. (g)
DF>Contents: Lawn clippings, kitchen scraps, wood chips from my
shop(possible problem since they contain redwood, aromatic
cedar, and fiberboard, which contains formaldehyde) and plant
food (Miracle Grow).
You need some old compost as an inoculant first off. Secondly,
tell us what proportions of each. My guess is that you are
heavy in the wood chips, of which I do not recommend more than
10% unless composting heavy muck like sewage sludge or wet
chicken manure. Why did you add the chemical fertilizer and
how much? Don't worry about the compounds in the wood products.
DF>I keep it wet and cover it with black plastic. The frame is
a box (3` x 3`) made by stacking cinder blocks. It is in the
north side of the house. I turn it daily with a fork.
Turning daily is never recommended. After the initial mix, I
don't turn my piles at home at all. In commercial operations,
I turn maybe three times in three weeks, twice in the first ten
days. Turning lets out the heat. I assume that the two
dimensions also mean that the box is 3' deep too, for a total
of one cubic yard. Wood chips add structure, but little
available carbon since it is still locked up in the wood fiber.
Adding wood chips to a compost pile is like giving a thirsty
child an eight pound block of ice.
Why did you cover it with black plastic? That is like throwing
a wet cloth on a fire, halting ventilation. Covering a pile
also keeps moisture from coming in. I recommend plastic sides
to keep too much air from coming in from the sides where it
dries the pile and cools it. Air should come in from the base,
like a kettle barbecue or a fireplace grate. It should then
rise out the top, with the chimney effect. Keeping the pile
covered halts the natural ventilation.
DF>Each time I add the lawn clippings it heats up a bit, but it
is short lived.
Yep. The pile is suffocating, and probably lacking nitrogen
>from more green stuff.
Mr. Compost~~~
---
* May 8th - I'm writing a book. I've got the page numbers
done.
Subject: Is this a compost pile? #
Papa Pilgrim writes:
JK>Or What? I have a pit in the far corner of my backyard.
(great stories deleted) All in all, what I am doing seems to
be right and is certainly too much fun. But--is it compost or
just rotted stuff?
Yo bro!
Your pile is a decomposing pile of rotting stuff, not a true
composting pile. True compost is made in batches where the
organic matter heats up, feeds abundant organisms that like the
hot environment, then they cool down.
But most people call any old dark organic stuff "compost". I
saw a commercial for the Troy Built chipper that claimed that a
man can put brush in one end and "compost" comes out the
other! Many of my clients in my composting consulting business
bought large tub grinders thinking that they "made compost".
When they start through the learning curve about making piles,
adding moisture, keeping it turned, they gradually come to
appreciate true compost.
But many people get upset when I tell them that they do not
have true compost, so I maybe have to think of a new word that
means *only* organic matter made from hot, active piles.
But there is no *better or worse* as far as the plants are
concerned. Nature does not make piles, she makes thin layers.
God does not teach bears and other animals to use pitch forks,
carry water, and turn piles. Nature is simple, doing her thing
in layers, a bit each year. The worms do the dirty work.
Humans seem to *need* to make piles. Once we do, we start
composting. When we are done, we put nature's life back to the
soil in layers.
I say do what works for you. Let it grow. We all should be
fruitful!
Mr Compost~~~
* May 23rd - Let me see.... Now how does that twit filter work?
Subject: Sawdust in compost
Michael asks an excellent question:
M>What advice can anyone give in using sawdust (oak and birch
>primarily) in composting. Can sawdust be the "brown" and grass
>the "green" effectively or do I still need to add larger wood
>chips for areation purposes?
The distinction between carbon as bulking material for aeration
and carbon as food was largely lost in the early 1970s when many
sludge composting sites failed due to foul odors. Wood chips
are not "available" carbon whereas sawdust is. Sawdust tends to
compact, however, and too much can "smother" a composting pile.
Too little or too much of a good thing can be a problem.
Composting is largely a process of finding a balance of various
ingredients. I read something about "fuzzy logic" where
numerous variables in cooking, brewing, and composting can be
managed via computer programs, something akin to master chefs,
brewmasters, or composting gurus.
I know that it took me many years and trials and errors before
I became confident in what and how much of various materials to
add. A computer program will rarely tell you *why* it is
recommending a particular mix.
Back to your question, sawdust varies as to its age and moisture
content, but adding around 20% by volume is a lot. I add about
10% wood chips, usually older compost "overs" screened out from
previous batches. I add anywhere from 10% to 50% old compost
as an inoculant, less if the compost is mature, more if it is
fresh. Most piles are deficient in Nitrogen, not carbon.
M>Finally, although I do keep sawdust generated from plywood
>separate from that generated from hardwood, is it OK to use
>plywood sawdust in the compost pile?
I wish I could give a pat answer to this question like I can
paper products, where I say use them all you please. But not
all plywoods are made the same, and I have seen some disturbing
levels of formaldehyde which have me a bit wary at the moment
about particle and plywood boards.
There are so many other sawdust products which are not under
question so I suggest that you follow my general rule, which is
"when in doubt, keep it out." These sawdusts may be perfectly
fine, and I would use them in a mixed waste compost, but in my
own garden? Probably not. When I have more conclusive data
like I have on the safety of paper, I will vary my position
accordingly.
Mr Compost~~~
* May 24th - Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
Subject: Composting grass
Waldek writes:
WT>Has anyone had a good experience with composting grass
clippings?
>When I put it in my compost pile it turns into a sticky mess
which takes ages to decompose. I wonder if there is something
the grass could be mixed with to help the breakdown process or
should I join my neighbours in the weekly routine of hauling
bags of the stuff to the curb? Help, help, I'm drowning in hay!
I have composted literally hundreds of thousands of tons of
grass clippings, and bag my grass at home too. I believe that
composting clippings and applying compost to the lawn is better
than letting the clippings lie. (although mulching the
clippings is better than landfilling any day!)
My recipe is the same for home and commercial alike. I have
two active batches going and one curing pile. Each week, I
stockpile the clippings in a holding bin. The next week, I add
the current week's clippings with last week's along with some
old compost (10% up to 50%) which is coarse with old wood chips.
These materials are layered OUTSIDE the active bin, watered
layer by layer. THEN they are forked into the active bin,
mixing thoroughly, watering dry areas. My active bin has an
aeration mat at the base allowing air to infiltrate from the
base. Once the bin is full, since I make *batches* of compost,
I "poke" the pile from the top to the base with a steel rod
every six inches to help it breathe.
Two weeks later, I take half of the older pile and put it into
the curing pile with half going into the new batch as the
compost inoculant. Once the material in the curing pile is
dark and crumbly, I screen it and use the oversize material as
a bulking material. Occasionally I add wood chips to help keep
the pile loose. I never turn the pile, but splitting it in
half to make old and new is a kind of turning. The piles are
always sweet smelling.
Have fun!
Mr Compost~~~
---
* May 23rd - Please let me know if you did not receive this.
Don asks,
D>I would have to agree with the low yield from table scraps,
vegetable peelings, coffee/tea wastes.
I must have missed the first part of the post. Are you talking
about low volume (total amount of compost) or the low nitrogen
value of compost in general, or compost from these ingredients?
Let me try to answer all three questions. The volume of
finished compost is typically 1/3 of the original volume, more
if there is free air space in the original mass. Brush shreds
down to about one tenth the original mass, for example. Mass
reduction is another matter. Net dry weight loss is typically
one third. This is actual nitrogen and carbon conversion to
ammonia, heat, and CO2. Most weight loss is from moisture
reduction from 80% moisture original matter such as wet grass
clippings or fresh garden scraps down to 40% moisture compost.
As far as fertilizer values, I have yet to make a true compost
that is over 2% nitrogen. Sure, I can have unstable compost
which is higher, but a cured compost will not be over 2% due to
the inherent biological restraints of the carbon to nitrogen
equation which is essential for proper decomposition. Higher
carbon ratios will result in lower net nitrogen values. Higher
nitrogen in the original feedstock will result in the release
of air borne ammonia and other nitrogen compounds and water
borne nitrates and nitrites.
Compost N values are stable so the can automatically be doubled
when compared to chemical nitrogen values, of which 50% or more
is lost in the first 24 hours of application. Compost N values
also have an accumulated fertility quotient, of which 60% is
available the first year, 20% the second, 10% the third, 5% the
fourth, and so forth. Chemical N has no accumulated value.
As far as the low volume of incoming table scraps as compared
to the net demand of they typical yard, I can state with
certainty that even if you bag and compost all of your yard
trimmings, leaves, and table scraps, your organic matter demand
for the yard is still greater. I recommend 1/4" of compost as
a top dressing PLUS letting the clippings lie in order to keep
a lawn organically sustainable. If you are trying to increase
the lawn's humus content, that requires an additional 1/4 inch
to make the soil richer.
One quarter inch of compost is one cubic yard spread over 1232
square feet. The typical lawn at 3,500 square feet requires
three cubic yards to be sustainable (with letting the clippings
lie) and twice that amount to build the soil up, usually
applied as a top dressing in the spring and fall. If a person
was improving the soil *before* the sod goes in, then 32 cubic
yards spread 3" deep would be called for.
You can see why I believe that it is important to support
municipal composting, as the single homestead is hardly capable
of generating sufficient compost to keep up.
As far as recommending good small composters, I recommend any
of the small, plastic, enclosed bins such as the Earth Machine
or Green Genie. I recommend round ones over square ones as
square bins have cool corners. Table scrap bins should be
covered to inhibit rodents and should not have too many
openings on the side. I do not recommend open air designs for
passive, table scrap bins as they let in too much air, dry out,
and let in vermin.
Pay no attention to the supposed door underneath to take
compost out. They are hard to use and compost does not "flow"
so well. Use instead bins which act like "jello molds" which
can be lifted off when full and the composting process started
new in a different spot. The old pile keeps its shape and will
cure just fine in the open air. Remember to use some old
compost mixed in with the fresh table scraps. This inoculates
it with active bacterial cultures and helps cover it from flies
and vermin.
For the best home composter, I recommend indoor redworm boxes.
Check out Mary Appelhof's book "Worms Eat My Garbage" for tips
for the budding vermiculturist.
Mr Compost~~~
* April 9th - Man, that lightning sounds clo#A#v!&^#v?##vNO
CARRIER
Heather writes:
HB>My husband and I have been composting for over a year in a
bin made from pallets (it is a cube about 3-4 feet on a side).
We want to compost mainly so we don't have to throw away our
vegetable scraps.
For table scraps and vegetables, I recommend smaller enclosed
bins. Large open air bins such as you describe are best suited
for batch, not continuous flow composting. Your type of bin
dries out too quickly, is hard to inoculate with old compost,
has corners that stay cool, and is generally unwieldy for small
amounts of matter.
We generate about a large stock pot worth of vegetable
>scraps a week or maybe a little more. We want to be able to
add the vegetable scraps to the heap without much trouble, but
we have had trouble with a bad smell and flies unless we cover
the vegetables completely with dirt (even leaves didn't work).
Your loading rate exceeds the microbial capability to decompose
the material. You need to begin active composting or throw the
scraps into the landfill. Flies are a sign that something is
wrong. Passive composting for the loading rate (amount of
stinky stuff) you have just doesn't cut it.
This is a lot of
>trouble - either we have to add a lot of dirt or we have to
dig around in the semi-composted mass to try to get the
vegetables all covered up. Surely there is an easier way.
There is no "easy way" to compost putrescible matter. Think of
an "easy way" to bake bread. The easy way is to send the
material to a centralized composting site where they practice
active composting. Then purchase the finished compost from
them. Like you buy bread from a baker.
I have seen a lot of
>information on composting but I haven't found a solution to
our dilemma. I would appreciate any advice.
Check out my previous notes on active composting. It really
isn't all that difficult once you get the hang of it. I don't
turn my piles once they are properly made, mixed, and situated
to self-aerate from the base. I let redworms do the curing.
Mr Compost~~~
* May 22nd - Composters have heaps of fun.
Subject: Mold in Compost
Connie writes:
CC>I have a considerable amount of powdery white mold or mildew
>in my compost pile: not just on the surface, but layered dwon
>quite a ways. Does that mean the pile is too wet, dry,
lacking in something or other?
It is a sign that everything is going well. No worries!
Mr Compost~~~
* May 22nd - Buy high, sell low, or something like that
David C writes regarding using grass clippings:
DC>A more immediate concern is the use of commercial herbicides
on lawns.Many of these herbicides will do extreme damage to
garden plants.I no longer compost or mulch with grass clippings
unless I am confident they are from herbicide-free lawns.
Your concern about uncomposted grass clippings with herbicides
has some merit, although most of the damage that
over-the-counter lawn chemicals can do is past within a few
days after spraying.
But as far as concern about using grass clippings in the
compost pile, your concern has been shown by numerous tests to
be unfounded. The composting process, even a passive pile, is,
in and of itself, a *treatment* for most common herbicides. By
the time the compost is dark and crumbly, the herbicides are
not only not a problem, they are virtually undetectable.
This is not true, however, for agricultural herbicides, some
pesticides, and many commercial chemicals used for spraying
trees, especially fungicides.
But most of these chemicals are not going to be uptaken by
plants, or incorporated into the plant itself. Few organic
certification processes regulate the source of the organic
matter for composting unless there is a clear pathway of
ingestion of chemicals into the food chain.
If you start restricting materials for composting because they
were produced outside of organic methods, your available
feedstocks will become fewer and fewer. I believe that the
benefits of organic matter in the soil far outweigh any real or
presumed biohazard from residential residual biocides in
municipal yard trimmings.
If you want *real* environmental concerns to address, try
arsenic in treated lumber, salts from road de-icing, motor oil
>from crankcases, household batteries in solid waste, lead in
wine bottle wrappers, mercury in electric shoes, runoff of lawn
fertilizers, nitrates in drinking water, rural burn barrels,
on-site dumping, unlined landfills, agricultural nutrient
runoff, incinerator emissions, and 1001 other documented
environmental concerns.
I get tired of people bashing compost and sewage sludges over
perceptual biohazards such as lawn chemicals in grass clippings
and inks in newsprint. It is difficult enough to permit and
operate composting facilities when people we environmentally
concerned composters would think would be our allies, the
organic gardeners, turn out to be some of our biggest opponents.
---
* June 21st - The Universe is over. We can all go home now.
Subject: cold composting
Mike writes: MN>Hi: Being aware of your wisdom from following
your posts to rec.gardens, I imagine you might be able to
provide me with some help regarding info on `cold composting'.
Well, my propaganda proceeds me or my paid supporters need a
raise. But thanks for the kind words anyway. (g)
I saw and pursued a reference to a recent Audubon
>Magazine article on an interesting gentleman who got his
county in an
>uproar by bringing in huge amounts of wood waste to his
land. He carried
>out what was referred to as `cold composting' to speed the
breakdown of
>the woody material (without any shredding or grinding) by
fungal action.
>Besides keeping the material moist, are there other tricks?
My understanding of the story was that the amounts were not
quite so "huge", like great tire stockpiles ready to be hit by
lightning, but were fairly normative mulch layers. The "huge"
terminology might really more aptly be called "out of the
ordinary". Huge, to me, implies thirty foot high stockpiles
such as one might find at a sawmill. Even then, people are
hardly in an uproar over these "huge" piles. The concern it
seems, is the fact that the material is deemed to be "waste"
and therefore subject to the NIMBY or NIMTOF (not in my term of
office) syndromes.
> My personal interest in this is not so grand as this
character's;
>I've just got whole lot of branch wood and prunings that I
am slowly
>making a dent in with a 7 hp Mac chipper/shredder. I mean a
whole lot--
>a pile 40 feet long by 12 feet wide by 5 feet tall. It's
daunting to park
>the chipper next to it and wonder how many hundreds of hours
it will take
>to reduce it all to mulch.
Ah yes Grasshopper, Master Po said to Quai Chang Kane, when this
stockpile of brush is reduced to humus, then it is time for you
to leave.
The first point is that nature does not compost; nature
mulches. We do not see piles of organic matter in nature,
aside from a few notable exceptions of mound building reptiles,
nesting birds, rhinos in dung etc.
Nature deposits organic matter down in thin layers where it is
"cold" composted, if ambient temperatures can be called
"cold". Years ago, it was called "sheet" composting, but one
rarely sees such a term anymore.
But the fact of the matter is that it is the mesophiles,
organisms which function from 40F to 120F that are the true
decomposers. The thermophiles, those operating over 120F up to
the pasteurization temperature of 147F, are lazy sons of guns
who thrive on the heat of their cooler brothers, but do little
to aid the decomposition process themselves.
When a carbon compound is broken biologically, one mole of CO2
and one mole of heat is released. In layers, this heat is
dissipated through convection. In piles, this heat is retained
due to the self-insulating properties of the composting mass.
It seems that the best temperatures for decomposing carbon,
which wood mulch represents, are in the 110F-120F range. Much
of this carbon is bound by cellulose which is highly resistant
to decay. The best means of attacking cellulose, aside from
hiring termites, is to enlist the aid of fungi.
This is what termites actually do in their gut, and is what the
gentleman referenced in the Audubon report is also doing. I
would suggest adding around 10% old compost to the wood mulch to
assist the inoculation process so that the decomposition can
proceed in earnest. Keeping it moist as you note is also
essential.
The real question is whether or not the organic matter is being
processed for a beneficial use or if it is being "disposed on
land". If the person is simply stockpiling in order to garner
"waste tipping fees" with no plan for the ultimate beneficial
use of the mulch or resultant decomposed organic matter, then I
would challenge the plan, just as I would stockpiling tires.
The greater crime is sending organic matter to the landfill
where it serves no beneficial use at all. Even worse, it
decomposes into explosive methane, merges with toxic leachate,
shrinks the landfill causing cracking in the clay cap, and
benefits no soils at all. So even a farmer making an extra
buck spreading wood mulch is better than the landfill
alternative.
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
Granite Connection 612-259-0801
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* June 22nd - The dinosaurs quit while they were ahead.
------------------============<>=============-----------------
Granite City Connection (612) 259-0801
Email: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
------------------============<>=============-----------------
From mem7c@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU Tue Nov 29 19:38:26 EST 1994
Article: 48605 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!EU.net!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU!mem7c
From: mem7c@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Michael E. Matthews)
Subject: Using Compost FAQ (long)
Message-ID:
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: uva
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 1994 21:23:08 GMT
Lines: 516
The following is a collection of composting advice from Jim
McNelly, aka Mr. Compost. Long-time readers of rec. gardens
will know him well. It is a compilation of some of his replies
to various questions from this group. It contains the
essentials of composting. If anyone has other of his posts
saved, I would sure like to recieve them.
Michael Matthews in central VA
***************************
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Composting 101
From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372
Denys is about to buy soil instead of compost :-(
DC>I am planning on hiring a landscaper to install lawn on my
5,600 sq foot yard. The thickness of the loam makes significant
difference in cost. Some landscaper told me I need 6 inches'
loam, while another said I only need 3. Someone even said the
quality of lawn has little to do with the thickness of the
loam. I am really confused. How do you think ?
For the beginning lawn or garden, there is no substitute for
tilling in 3" of compost 9" deep. I have been in the organic
fertilizer business since 1975 and have helped thousands of
yards. They all have lusher yards and lawns with a healthy soil
system. Once the lawn is planted, it is very difficult to go
back and add compost later. Most homes had the topsoil scraped
off and sold, leaving subsoil with a token layer of black dirt.
Most topsoil sold is low in organic matter and is worthless for
soil building. A rich application of compost will pay for itself
in a few years in water savings and increased property value.
All else is secondary. If you have a lawn that you are starting
to reclaim and don't want to start all over, then applying 1/2"
of compost and reseeding in the spring for the next ten years is
a way of building up the lawn gradually over time. Remember to
leave the clippings to lie. Organic matter is the only way to
build up a soil.
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
Granite Connection 612-259-0801
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* May 22nd - Nitrate: Lower than the day rate.
>>My girlfriend told me that the sticks and twigs poking out of
the gound had been pulled in by worms.I laughed of course but
last night we crouched down in the garden and sure enough worms
were grabbing stuff and trying to pull it down their
holes!>They were yanking on the dead tulip leaves, the cosmos
and whatever they could get their mouths on!
>>Why?
Nightcrawlers, lumbricus terrestris, live in permanent burrows
in the soil which they excavate from childhood. They can go as
deep as sixteen feet and typically have around seven openings
on the surface. When it is moist, dark, and cool, they rise to
the surface, keeping their tail in the burrow, and forage for
scraps of organic matter. This material they tow back into the
burrow where it is stored in "root cellars" for eating at a
later date.
The mass of organic scraps in the underground chambers are
tended carefully as the worm excretes enzyme rich "coleomic
fluids" that cause the matter to be digested over time. This
is why worms are called "exodigestive" organisms as contrasted
with mammals that are "endodigestive". When the mass of
organics is properly composted, full of protozoa and other
earthworm delicacies, the worm finally eats it.
As such, earthworms do not "eat" soil except to excavate. Nor
do they "eat" organic matter, unless it has been fully
decomposed in their underground chambers. Without a burrow
network, the nightcrawler has no habitat or a means to prepare
their food. This is why I do not recommend adding soil worms
to compost piles, as they must have a burrow network underneath
in order to be of any use. Redworms, or manure worms can be
added to compost piles past the cooking phase. They do not have
permanent burrows and must eat with other worms en masse~,
relying on their fellows to pre-digest for them just as they
pre-digest for others.
Redworms fare poorly in mineral soils just as nightcrawlers
fare poorly in compost piles. The best way to increase worm
populations is to add mulch! The worms will mix it with the
soil and effect its decomposition. A healthy virgin prairie or
deciduous forest soil may have up to 1,000 pounds of worms per
acre, compared with about 5 pounds of all other large animals
combined. Depleted soils that are overmuch tilled and eroded
may have fewer than 100 worms per acre.
So be glad your worms are eating, for soon there will be young
worms hoping for more food to be found on the surface.
In my estimation, all successful gardening and farming can be be
narrowed down to one key concept...... Feed Earthworms!
Mr Compost~~~
---
* June 13th - Old musicians never die, they just decompose.
Forrest,
It is the lousy clay soil that killed your grass to begin
with. Tilling in the old sod is a noble organic gesture, but
will not solve your fundamental problem, which is the lack of
organic matter in the soil.
You need to till in 3" of compost 9" deep before replanting.
All else is treating the symptoms, not the cause.
My first organic soil business was in the Denver area and I
prepared hundreds of lawns this way. I will guarantee, that
even after over ten years have passed, that these lawns are
still green, lush, and drought resistant. You could see the
difference the very first year when they watered less and still
the grass stayed green during the summer.
Face it. Your topsoil was stolen by the contractor. The
topsoil that was there was poor to begin with anyway. Build a
new soil from scratch. Call E&A fertilizer, Arts, Colorado
Mushroom, or A1 Compost out of Greely. There are plenty of
organic sales companies in your area. Don't get talked into
the "sheep and peat" mix. Go for the pure compost.
Mr Compost~~~
* April 9th - Recycle! Today's Garbage is tomorrow's America.
Subject: Re: Soil denseness
----------------------------------------
S. responds further>>>
SM>Thanks for your advice!
SM> I hope your yard can withstand the raising of the soil
level, which will be a net of around three inches when all is
said and done.
SM>Well, that _is_ problematic, actually. The soil level has
already risen over the years to the point that it is roughly
even with the basement window sills.... And of course it is
not a good idea to dig this out, because you want the land to
slope away from the foundation.
In the years when I was an organic landscaper, I was amazed at
the number of homes that had poor drainage! The lousy grading
plans of instant housing builders is criminal in my opinion. I
think that a builder should be liable for lousy drainage for at
least twenty years. They should also be required to post a
bond for remediating lousy drainage.
Homes should be built on elevated platforms and water should
not drain through the neighbor's yard. One friend of mine has
a garage floor that is at the same elevation as the curb.
There is no drainage whatsoever and his basement floods every
time it rains. I had to install a gravel sump and french drain
to help solve his problem.
SM> Just spread the soil/leaf mix over the entire area to be
amended and water thoroughly.
SM>No forking at all?
That's right. Let the worms do the work of mixing.
SM> It is important to keep it *very moist* thereafter,
SM>Yes, I plan to put in some sort of irrigation system. What
do you recommend? Rubber soaker hose? Tyvek soaker hose? Drip
irrigation?
Regular surface irrigation that waters evenly from the top, not
a sub or drip system. Your goal is to water the soil, not just
the plants.
SM> ..It will take over a year, but the worms will eventually
increase in population proportional to the new food level....
SM>Is it worthwhile to buy worms? If so, what kind and from
where?
No. Native soil worms like nightcrawlers live in permanent
burrows which they excavate from youth. They live in these
burrows all their lives, if they leave such as after a severe
downpour, they are homeless and usually die. It is too
difficult for an adult worm to excavate a new burrow network
once they have left. Although the thick mulch layer can give
them a transition zone to live in while they excavate a new
tunnel network, adding worms is largely a waste of money.
I assume that you already have a native worm population. As
such, they will immediately begin reproducing to catch up with
the increased food level. Let them multiply on their own.
If you do add worms, you might add some redworms which are not
native soil worms. They do not have permanent burrows and will
live in the moist surface mulch layer. They compete for food
with the nightcrawlers, however, which is the opposite of your
goal. The redworms will not survive a solid freeze nor will
they burrow or live in a mineral soil.
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
Granite Connection 612-259-0801
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* June 5th - Start your own revelation and cut out the middle
man
Subject: Soil denseness
Donald bemoans the eternal clay: DLH>My garden soil is dense
clay (apparently) and I can't get it to loosen up. I have put
composted stuff in to try to break it up, but it doesn't work.
DLH>Does anyone have any suggestions?
Sure Donald,
It took nature 500 years to make one inch of topsoil. Even
adding 3" of compost and tilling it in 9" deep is only the
start of creating an organic soil that is a suitable habitat to
soil organisms.
If you really want to get the soil enriched, hire a backhoe and
dig out eighteen inches. Mix 1 part compost, well aged and
fully decomposed as that is the most concentrated, with two or
three parts old soil.
Replace and you have an instant soil. At roughly 6" of
compost, that equates to around one cubic yard per 54 square
feet. I would bet that your compost application, if it was
even compost, was fairly light and you are giving up too easily.
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
Granite Connection 612-259-0801
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* June 1st - Composters have heaps of fun.
Marc asks an excellent question:
MR>I am confused about peat moss not being a good source of
plant food.
>It is dead vegetation so why no food value? Why is it not
the same as composted vegetation?
Hi Marc,
It is not so much that peat has *no* food value, just that it
has very lttle. The nitrogen level in compost, for example
ranges from .8% up to 2%. Uncomposted manures and other high N
products can N levels around 1% for horse manure through 3% for
dairy manure up to 8% for human manure.
The N level in peat moss is typically below .1%, less than
1/20th of a well made compost. The P and K values are not so
much lower than compost, but these minerals are typically low
in organic sources from plants anyway.
Peat is accumulated from a single source moss, typically
sphagnum, reed-sedge, or hypnum which are mostly fiber, low in
nutrients. Depending on where and how it was mined, it may
have mineral contents from 80% (mostly soil) to 10% (true
moss). It takes thousands of years for peat to accumulate and
when the mosses die, they fall into the soil to decompose very
slowly. Since mosses grow in wetlands, the decomposition is
anaerobic, and anaerobes are notoriously poor at attacking
carbon like the aerobes are. What little N is there is used
within a few decades to support the meager anaerobe population,
after which time the moss just sits there, concentrating.
When humans come in and mine the peat, the degree of
mineralization is dependent on where in the bog, which can
often be up to 40 feet deep, the peat was removed. The top few
feet is mostly living moss, the next layer is the peat we are
used to purchasing, and the lower layers are more of a
texture-less muck, high in mineral content, not unlike a black
topsoil. Of course sphagnum behaves differently from the other
mosses and each bog is unique.
When the peat is mined, it is then used in various soil mixes
or as a landscaping amendment. It is then exposed to N from
the other soil it is blended with and the aerobic decomposition
process begins. This actually starts the peat to compost in a
manner of speaking, although it is actually a poor source of
carbon for composting since it is in a physical structure that
is resistant to microbial attack due to the cell structure of
the moss.
As an organic matter substrate for soil amending, particularly
for helping a soil drain or hold water, it is equal to compost
or manures, perhaps better in some respects. As a food source
for a healthy soil ecosystem, it is rather inert and low in
value. Compost is a true bacteria food and immediately
stimulates active beneficial soil cultures which in turn
produce pheromes and other beneficial byproducts not measured
by NPK or humus analysis.
I treat peat like an organic mineral, an inert buffer with low
value other than its physical structure. As an
environmentalist, I oppose the wanton mining of wetlands and
the indifference of highway designers and farmers in draining
peatlands. Over 90% of the reed-sedge peat resources in the 48
states are lost or severely damaged, particularly in the
mountain states. Most uses of peat would be better served by
recycled products such as bark and compost. I only use peat
for certain planter mixes when I can find no substitute.
MR>I read that it will slowly disappear in the soil over time.
What happens to it? Does it make the soil more acid?
Peat, like all organic matter, oxidizes in the soil over time
leaving various humus compounds. The chemistry is basically
one mole of CO2 and one mole of heat is produced by bacterial
action (composting) or chemical oxidation. Its acidification
properties depend on the source and initial pH level of the
peat. Some sphagnum peat is in the high 4 range, some sedges
are neutral or even alkaline. There is no way to know the acid
properties of a particular peat without a pH test. The
acidification effect is also lost over time, depending on the
ambient pH level and other soil conditions.
MR>Gardening books are not clear on this.
They are not clear on most issues related to the use of organic
matter in any of its forms. They tend to be chemically focused
with the notion that all soil is inert media, a necessary evil,
which is used to hold roots in order to feed the plant with
chemicals. Hydroponic gardening with rock wool and chemical
solutions is the ultimate example of this narrow view of the
humusphere and its relationship with plant growth. The carbon
respiration cycle is rarely taught in schools, whereas the
cycle of H2O from surface water to clouds is universally taught.
The carbon cycle goes from atmospheric CO2 to plants to humus
and back to CO2.
Hope this helps.
Mr Compost~~~
* May 8th - Let's see what this one does... &%$/()"@# NO
CARRIER
The question came up: E I bought some Milorganite to put on my
lawn (6-2-0). Somewhere in the past I have read that
milorganite contains traces of heavy metals. Is there any truth
to this?
To which Eric replied:
>On the bag (lower back-right corner, I think) it says that it
should not be used for consumption as it may contain heavy
metals.
To which the mysterious Mr Compost~~~ chimes in:
Not all sludges are created equal, and what might be true for
one wastewater treatment facility might not be true for another.
But as far as Milorganite goes, my understanding is that years
ago, Milwaukee let their industrial sewers blend with their
residential, and there were occasional moderate levels of
cadmium and other heavy metals of concern.
Milwaukee modified their entire sewerage system during the past
ten years and now produces Milorganite from a relatively clean
source. This upgrade cost tens of millions of dollars and was
designed to ensure a consistent, and safe sludge based product
for residential use.
As far as heavy metals go, they are found everywhere in various
concentrations. They are in leaves, background soil, peat,
manures and the food we eat. The number one source of heavy
metal contamination in the environment is cigarette smoking,
which contains high levels of cadmium. Another source is lead
>from outlawed lead based solder in copper pipes. Still another
is zinc from multivitamins.
The question about heavy metals is based on the parts per
million (concentration) and the pounds per acre
(accumulation). These two limiting factors are determined by
detecting, according to the EPA rules governing the beneficial
use of sewage sludge, the "most affected individual". This
might mean a child eating pounds of the sludge and taking in
lead, or it might mean a farmer whose crop is inhibited by a
zinc/iron imbalance. Or it might mean a two pack a day smoker
who eats twenty pounds of lettuce from their sludge amended
garden.
These concentrations and extreme cases are the basis for
determining "safe" levels in the soil as far as plant growth,
pollution, and human health are concerned. I can state without
reservation that the current levels of heavy metals in
Milorganite are nothing to be concerned with, even if you use
the product every year for hundreds of years. I would use the
product (if it were not so expensive) in my garden without a
second thought.
The notices about heavy metals and the restrictions posted are
for liability protection to the sewerage district and are
posted by lawyers, not scientists. They are designed to
encourage the use of the product in lawns, which is where the
retail money is anyway.
Mr Compost~~~
* April 9th - Coincide. What you are supposed to do when it
rains.
Darin McGrew comments:
M>For those of you who grow your own seedlings in soil blocks,
what soil mixture do you use? When we bought our soil blocker,
we also bought a soil block mix from the same company (so we
could start using soil blocks quickly). However, now I'd like
to mix my own soil block mix,and I'm curious what works best
for others.
M>The mix that we purchased was made of refined perlite, reed
sedge peat, sharp sand, dolomitic lime, and beneficial bacteria.
I don't prefer reed sedge peat. For one, it is strip mined out
of fragile wetlands and varies widely in quality. Sphagnum is
mined in a more renewable manner from vast expanses of bogs in
Canada. Hypnumn peat is my favorite, but it is hard to find.
Sharp sand is a misnomer, usually referring to #8 masonry sand.
Occasionally it means true silica sand, which costs up to ten
times more.
I add limestone, usually as 38% CACO3 only after an accurate pH
test and then according to clear formulas to increase the pH up
to the desired level. I shoot for 6.5 pH in my potting mixes.
Beneficial bacteria? I hope they aren't talking about packaged
"inoculants". They don't hurt, but I am not convinced they
help, either. To me, "add bacteria" means add a well made
compost.
M>Here are some recipes that I've seen in books:
M> 1 part peat moss
> 1 part compost, leaf mold, soil, commercial potting soil
> 1 part sharp sand, vermiculite, perlite
M> 1 part compost, leaf mold
> 1 part sharp sand, vermiculite, perlite
M> 1 part compost, leaf mold
> 1 part commercial potting soil
> 1 part sharp sand, vermiculite, perlite
M> 1 part compost, leaf mold
> 1 part commercial potting soil
M> 1 part compost, leaf mold
> 2 parts commercial potting soil
> 1 part composted manure
M>At this point, I'm leaning towards equal parts of peat moss,
compost, and vermiculite, but I haven't tried it yet. What
works for you?
I *love* using leaf mould (I prefer the British spelling), and
*never* use any of the commercial potting soils, unless I know
*exactly* what is in it. As a mixer and packager of potting
soils for twenty years, I have been to many of these
"commercial" facilities and some of them throw in whatever they
happen to have available at the moment. If you like what goes
into hot dogs and non dairy creamer, you will *love* some of
these so called potting soils.
In *any* planter mix, there is no substitute for at least 20%
earthworm castings, but not more than 33%. Not only to the
worms fully cure the compost, helping to prevent damping off
and root rot, they add growth hormones that are guaranteed to
help the plant grow like crazy, 20% to 200% over conventional
compost.
Here is my secret universal soil mix formula.
5 parts hypnum peat
2 parts decomposed bark (pine or hardwood usually)
4 parts worm castings
1 part sand either silica or #8 masonry
2 parts coarse compost (preferably leaf mould; mushroom is ok)
2 parts funny white things (usually vermiculite)
CACO3 only as needed
Add a dusting of diatomite & seaweed to taste for
micronutrients.
Screen at 1/2"
Mr Compost~~~
Jim~ McNelly
ReSourceNet and GardenNet 612-654-8372, 656-0678 v.32bis
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* April 9th - Please let me know if you did not receive this.
. 6 .. archives Q, .cap INDEX X richters `[ pictures l programs _ faqs ~4 incoming SWSBM "C
Marco_Bleeker p Howie_Brounstein + Fragrant_Garden database 7
neat_stuff README allfiles.txt
readme.txt -----
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.folklore.herbs,rec.food.preserving
Subject: Culinary herb FAQ (v.1.00) Part 1/2
Organization: ... ei meill' oo...
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Reply-To: HeK@hetta.pp.fi
Expires: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 00:00:00 GMT
Summary: What you have always wanted to know (and ask on a
newsgroup) about culinary herbs
Archive-name: culinary-herbs/part1
SunSITE-archive-name: culinary-herbs.faq.part1.v1.00
Posting-Frequency: has yet to be decided
Last-modified: 1995/07/28
Version: 1.00
A culinary herb FAQ / Resource list for the rec.gardens newsgroup.
Should be available by ftp or www shortly. ;)
I'll post the where-to-go-get-it -thingy later.
Keeper:
Henriette Kress (HeK@hetta.pp.fi)
Very active contributors so far:
How do you get listed here? Easy. Give me some good input on any
missing item ('wishlist'), or a valuable correction on any entry,
or a valuable addition on any entry. ;) All good stuff is
welcome.
Gwen Baker
Judith Rogow
Karen Fletcher
Michael Rooney
Leslie Basel
Others:
Amy Smith
Amy Snell
Bess Haile
Carole Henson
Dan Baldwin
David & Paula Oliver
Diana Politika
Donna Beach
DonW1948@aol.com
Elizabeth Platt
James Michael Kocher
Jason Wade Rupe
Jeffrey Clayton (Barb.)
Jennifer Norris
jnilsen@minerva.cis.yale.edu
Joep@reol.com
Josh Bogin
Kathy French
Kaycee Curr
Kenneth Nilsson
kpmglib@netcom.com
Leslie Paul Davies
Libby Goldstein
Mandy Haggith
Mark David Morrison
Mel Atchley
Michelle Marie Manke
Mike Stallcup
Nancy Moote
Peter Mortimer
rgyure@aol.com
Rick Giese
Rita Melnick
Robert G. Nold
Rudy Taraschi
Sarah G.
Sheri McRae
skifast123@aol.com
sonny hays-eberts
Steve Cogorno
Susan D. Hill
Susan Hattie Steinsapir
Susan Nielsen /
Suzanne M. Engels
Tom Havey
vshafer216@aol.com
wayne chase
Wendi L Gardner
==========
CONTENTS
1 Introduction
1.1 Wishlist
2 Herbs: gardening / harvesting / using them
2.x This is the structure of the herb entries:
2.x.1 Growing ___
2 x 2 Harvesting ___
2.x.3 Using / preserving ___
2.x.4 Which ___ do you have?
And these are the herbs so far:
2.1 Basil - including pesto recipes...
2.2 Curry plant / Curry leaf
2.3 Sage
2.4 Chives
2.5 Saffron
2.6 Zucchini flowers
2.7 Chamomile
2.8 Coriander/Cilantro
2.9 The mints
2.10 Feverfew
2.11 Tarragon
2.12 Nasturtiums
2.13 Dill
2.14 Rosemary
2.15 Lavender
2.16 Lemon balm
2.17 Garlic
2.18 Thyme
3 Gardening
3.1 Herbs for ground cover (Nothing yet)
3.2 Herbs you can't get rid of (= easy gardening) (Nothing yet)
3.3 Tall herbs (Nothing yet)
3.4 Herbs for shade
4 Processing herbs
4.1 Herb vinegars
4.2 Herb oil
4.3 Drying your herbs
4.4 Freezing your herbs - including pesto...
4.5 Fresh or dry? (Nothing yet)
4.6 Jelly, syrup and other sweet stuff
4.6.1 Flower / herb jelly
4.6.2 Syrup
4.7 Potpourris and other uses for dried herbs / flowers
4.7.1 Stovetop potpourri
4.7.2 Dry potpourri
4.7.3 Drying flowers whole for potpourri
4.8 Alcoholic beverages
4.8.1 Wine
5 Sites to see
5.1 FTP sites (Nothing yet)
5.2 WWW pages (Nothing yet)
==========
1 Introduction
-----
Hi all,
here's the new culinary/gardening herbfaq, with nothing much taken from
the previous herbfaq (by Judith Ann Reed, latest update 10/14/93...)
except perhaps the herb gardening IDEAS...
Now, everybody, just swamp me with suggestions, please, I'd like some
feedback. (you can post to the newsgroup just as well... I do try to
keep up on rec.gardens, too). HeK@hetta.pp.fi
==========
1.1 Wishlist
-----
Ever seen a FAQ without one? Here's what's missing:
Single herbs
2.1.4 Different kinds of basil
2.2.1 Growing curry plant / curry leaf
2.2.2 Harvesting curry plant / curry leaf
2.2.3 Using / preserving curry plant / curry leaf
2.3.1 Growing sage
2.3.2 Harvesting sage
2.3.4 Which sage do you have? Needing a neat writeup on these.
2.4.1 Growing chives
2.4.2 Harvesting chives
2.4.3 Using / preserving chives, additions, please.
2.5.3 Using / preserving saffron
2.6.1 Growing zucchini flowers ;)
2.6.2 Harvesting zucchini flowers
2.6.4 either Which zucchini do you have ;) or a post stating there is
only one true zucchini, or a post stating you can also use
cucumber / melon / whatever flowers like you can zucchini.
2.7.1 Growing chamomile
2.7.2 Harvesting chamomile
2.7.3 More uses for chamomile needed
2.7.4 A full writeup on all the chamomiles there are, please
2.8.4 Which cilantro / coriander do you have? -just a post stating
they are the same, or if you know more about them, then more
2.9.1 More on growing mints.
2.9.4 A full writeup on the different kinds of mint, including monarda
/ beebalm (or a hint to it) and others of like use. Of course
also mentioning that pennyroyal isn't good for your health...
2.10.2 Harvesting feverfew
2.10.3 Using / preserving feverfew
2.10.4 Which kinds of feverfew are there?
2.11.1 More on growing tarragon
2.11.2 Harvesting tarragon
2.11.3 More uses / preserving tricks for tarragon - vinegar, anyone?
2.11.4 More on different tarragon substitutes
2.12.1 Growing nasturtium
2.12.2 Harvesting the stuff
2.12.3 - taken, partly - More uses - caper recipe, anyone? flowers?
2.12.4 And a writeup on the nasturtiums.
2.13.3 More uses for dill, please.
2.13.4 Need someone to write on different kinds of dill.
2.15 All you have ever wanted to write about lavender.
2.16 Lemon balm, all except how to make the tea.
2.17 Garlic please?
2.18 And some thyme.
2.xx Any other herb you wish to write extensively on
Gardening:
3.1 Herbs for ground cover
3.2 Herbs you can't get rid of
3.3 Tall herbs
3.x anything else on herb gardening you might think of
Processing herbs
4.5 Fresh or dry?
4.x Any other way to process herbs you might think of
5 - taken - And any good FTP or WWW sites
End of wishlist. If you decide to add something tell me - I'll keep
track of who promises to do what so we won't have doubles.
==========
2 Herbs: growing, harvesting, using/preserving, and checking which
you've really got
-----
This is the main spot for information. Check this before posting yet
another question on curry plant... on the other hand every time
somebody asks for uses for mints some new ones pop up so keep asking
for those. ;)
==========
2.1 Basil
=====
2.1.1 Growing basil
-----
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
Basil loves the sun and hates the cold & wind. If it drops below 50
degrees at night, the leaves will yellow. When it warms up the new
growth will be green. If it doesn't get enough sun and stays in
damp soil too long, it will eventually die. The wind will bruise
the leaves. So will rough handling. Again, the new growth will be
fine.
Very important to harden basil plants. Transplant shock may kill them.
Set the pots outside for 3-5 days (watch the night temps) before
transplanting.
I use compost and occasionally organic fertilizer. Never had any bug
problems. A few catepillars and rabbits, but there was plenty for
everyone in my patch.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney), in response to above:
I believe it is better to not transplant basil, i.e., it is better to
put seeds in the ground where you want it, when it is warm enough for
them to grow. They will quickly outstrip the transplants however
carefully they have been grown and hardened.
Yes, they do tend not to attract many bugs which is a surprise given
their good taste.
From: Michael Rooney
>Basil eaten to skeleton; more eaten each morning, no bugs evident:
There is a caterpillar that seems often to like basil that lives under
the surface of the earth during the day. Gently disturb the top
quarter or half inch of dirt in a circle around the plant going out
about four inches or so and look for a dark gray circle about half to
three quarters of an inch in diameter that usually stays that way and
sometimes opens up to get away (depending on how deep a sleep it is
in I guess :-)). If you find it, squash it and hope. The only other
predator I can see that would do what you have is a lot of slugs so
you would likely see them anyway. They can be taken care of by all
the standard beer, diatomaceous earth, etc. methods in addition to
hand picking.
There are few joys as great as finding one of those blasted
caterpillars in the ground after they have been eating your food, let
me tell you.
From: bogin@is2.nyu.edu (Josh Bogin)
>Basil drooping in the evening sun:
Probably this is due to not enough water **and or possibly resulting
from** not enough room for the plants. If the plants are root-bound
it really will hardly matter how much you are watering them, since
the pot would presumably be too small to hold much water, the plant
would keep drying out, and also the roots probably get no nutrients.
Give them some plant food, and think about finding them more room,
if this is the problem.
From: carole@chenson.demon.co.uk (Carole Henson)
I am addicted to basil, really love it, even the smell is wonderful. I
have 10 basil plants in my greenhouse at the moment, and two in the
kitchen for chucking into salad etc. You only need a couple of
large handfuls of leaves for a jar of pesto, so a couple of plants
would do it. If you sow a few seeds at 2 weekly intervals, you
should have a constant supply.
-----
From: southsky@maui.net (Rick Giese):
>I have been growing basil from seed effortlessly here in central
pennsylvania for years, but this year it simply didn't come up. It
has been three weeks since I put the seed in, and the only factor I
can identify is that it has been an extremely WET three weeks.
Basil seeds will not germinate when they are constantly wet. I started
mine in flats protected from the winter rains here on Maui. Once
transplanted to the field, they did fine.
=====
2.1.2 Harvesting basil
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
You can harvest basil leaves as soon as the plant has 3 sets of leaves.
Keep the plants branches shorter than 4 sets of leaves and you will
increase leaf production. Once it flowers, production drops. I've
found the taste stronger befor flowering.
From: Mark David Morrison
Basil leaf harvesting: pick all that you think that you will need for
the recipe that you are preparing. If you have a lot of basil and are
freezing basil for winter then just pick the big leaves. I use a lot
of basil and pick leaves from the plant almost daily. If they are
small or big leaves does not matter... the plant is the hardiest
beast in my gardens. I think it may be of alien origin.
Pinching back basil: Always pinch off and use those tops. The leaves
will really bush out on your basil when you do.
=====
2.1.3 Using / preserving basil
----- pesto recipes
From: jnilsen@minerva.cis.yale.edu (jnilsen)
1 cup fresh Basil leaves, tightly packed
2-3 cloves garlic
1/4 cup frshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/4 cup olive oil
Process (or finely chop and mix) all but oil. Slowly add oil. Use.
From: phuyett@cctr.umkc.edu (Donna Beach)
I never really follow a recipe when I make pesto. I usually put 4-6
cloves of garlic in the food processor with 1/4 cup of olive oil and
a couple of tablespoons of herb vinegar and then chop the garlic.
Then I add at least 3-4 cups packed fresh sweet basil leaves and 3-4
tablespoons of ground almonds. Some people use ground pine nuts. And
1/4 cup or more of grated parmesan cheese (I like it fresh best). All
this gets processed till the basil is chopped fine.
I have seen this basic pest recipe to include one-to-several peeled
tomatoes--which is a great way to use up an abundance of tomatoes
from your garden.
Later in the year when there's not as much sweet basil, you can put
parsely into the mix. I have even seen a winter "pesto" made with
fresh sage, but to me, it's not pesto without fresh sweet basil, with
or without the tomatoes.
-----
> I would like to hear from others about alternatives for using pesto
or fresh sweet basil.
From: wlgardne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Wendi L Gardner)
I grow lots of basil and make tons of pesto. what to do with all of
that pesto? yes pasta, yes bread, but other fun things to do with
pesto...
(1) smash it into cream cheese (the ratio of pesto to cream cheese that
I prefer is 1:3, but you can go more or less, obviously.) add
garlic, some plumped (blanched) sun dried tomatoes, whatever else you
fancy - yum!
(2) toss pesto with white beans and vidalia onions, serve this
concoction hot on a bed of fresh spinach.
(3) mix pesto with vegetable broth, toss in whatever veggies you have
in the fridge and some macaroni, (i like broccoli, carrots,
cauliflower, and rotini for this) and you have soup.
(4) find the juiciest beefsteak tomato you can...slice in half, slather
with pesto, broil till bubbly. messy, but with a good quality
tomato--- more than worth the mess!
(5) fill mushroom caps with pesto plus a cheese (the pesto cream cheese
mixture in #1 is good for this) sprinkle with bread crumbs and broil.
From: jwr3150@tam2000.tamu.edu (Jason Wade Rupe)
I bake it right into bread sometimes.
I like a stir fry of basil and whatever with a basic simple sauce on
rice.
Try using it fresh as a pizza topping.
From: mmm@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu (Michelle Marie Manke)
Make pizza with a layer of pesto on the crust, then mozarella cheese,
then dotted with feta. Try using reduced-fat mozarella, and
scattering black olives & fresh tomatoes on top!
From: rscw081@uacsc1.albany.edu (Sarah G.)
Pesto and potatoes: On baked potatoes, swirled into mashed potatoes,
mixed into homefried potatoes, used as a dipping sauce for french
fries
Make soup and swirl a spoonful into each bowl before serving.
Blend the pesto with vinegar and oil, or your favorite vinaigrette, and
use as salad dressing
Make into soup... sautee some veggies, add broth and pesto, and simmer
for pesto soup.
Thin it and use as a marinade for tofu, potatoes and veggies, then
grill.
Use it for garlic bread filling (or is that what you meant?) Or you
could use it to smear over homemade bread before it comes out of the
oven as a glaze
Sliced ripe tomatoes layered on a plate with pesto, and fresh
waterpacked mozzerella.
It's easy to make a dairy free pesto. Instead of using cheese, either
use a mild flavored miso paste or SoyMage pretend grated cheese,
which is completely vegan (no casein). I usually just leave the
cheese out altogether, letting the flavor of the basil, garlic, olive
oil and nuts show through.
From: cogorno@netcom.com (Steve Cogorno)
Take GOOD quality tomatoes, preferably ones you've grown yourself :-)
and slice them. Top with fresh mozzarella whole basil leaves. A
little expensive because of the cheese, but it makes a very colorful
and tasty appetizer!
From: norrisj@boalt.berkeley.edu (Jennifer Norris)
I make a potato salad with it. Instead of the usual mayonaisse, I add
pesto. Besides potatoes, I add fresh snap peas, green onions, and if
I want to make it a really substantial meal, black beans. Gets rave
revues....
-----
From: Kathy French
If your basil plants aren't producing fast enough to give you a cup or
two of leaves at a time, you can pinch off stems and keep them with
the ends of the stems in clean water (change it every few days) at
room temperature for several days. Freezing the leaves doesn't work
so well, because it will make them mushy when they thaw, and it
reduces their flavor as well.
You can also preserve basil by washing it carefully, drying it
thoroughly, packing it in good olive oil, and keeping it in the
refrigerator. Then you can use the leaves plus oil to make pesto
fresh when you want it by adding garlic, cheese, and pine nuts.
I've tried this method and it works well, although the basil turns
somewhat dark in the process.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
You can also make basil pesto and freeze it in cubes or patties and
save it for the winter when you have nothing fresh to use.
==========
2.2 Curry plant (Helichrysum angustifolium) / Curry leaf (Murraya
Koenigii)
=====
2.2.4 Which curry plant / curry leaf do you have?
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
From: kpmglib@netcom.com (Information Services)
The "Curry Plant" is an herb, Helichrysum angustifolium, from the
family Compositae. I believe it came from Africa or Australia, so
it's tropical, and probably perennial; although in North Texas you
may need to grow it as an annual or in a container (probably not
frost-hardy). The name "curry plant" originated from this herb's
pungent smell, which is reminiscent of some curries or curry
powders; however it is not used in curry. I believe that it is
widely cultivated in the U.K., and is used there mostly in salads,
or mixed with cream-cheese.
There actually is a plant that produces what is known as the "curry
leaf", and which *is* used in the preparation of some curries (much
the same way as bay leaf is used). The leaves of this plant, a
woody tree from the Asian sub-continent called Murraya Koenigii,
also have a strong curry-like smell, and can be purchased dried at
most asian markets. The tree itself has only recently been
cultivated commercially in this country, and is carried by only a
very few nurseries. It is still considered an exotic, and commands
a premium price.
==========
2.3 Sage
=====
2.3.3 Using / preserving sage
-----
> I have a very healthy sage plant in my garden but I don't know what
to use the herb for, except of course for stuffing a chicken.
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
Stuff a few leaves into the cavity of a trout. Tie with string, baste
with a little oil and grill. Use only 1 or 2 leaves per fish
otherwise the sage will overpower the fish.
Chop fine, lightly saute in olive oil with minced garlic. Add a little
chopped parsley & toss with spaghetti or other pasta. Serve as a
side dish to grilled chicken, fish or meat.
Toss a few sage leaves with quartered onion and flattened garlics into
clay pot chicken.
From: Michael Rooney :
We use sage for stuffing turkeys in addition to chickens, if you have
turkeys in the UK. We also use it in foccacio... ...Sage pesto is
another way to use large quantity of sage and it can be frozen to be
used in the winter. You might use walnuts or pecans instead of the
traditional pignoli nuts in pesto as sage is stronger than basil.
It goes well with pork or chicken. You can also roast eggplant and
sweet red pepper and food process them together with sage for a nice
dip to be used with homemade french bread.
From: ag500@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Peter Mortimer):
It also makes a great addition to just about any green salad, either
tossed in as whole leaves or cut up in small pieces.
From: rgyure@aol.com (RGyure):
I discovered last summer that garden sage makes a beautiful and
fragrant addition to fresh cut flower bouquets I bring in from the
garden. I grow more than I can use in cooking (who uses that much
sage?)-- and the pale green, white-frosted somewhat sparkly leaves
make delightful foliage for cutting-- and are long-lasting.
From: vshafer216@aol.com (VShafer216):
I recently tried a really good recipe that uses fried sage--it tastes
great. Broil chicken thighs (marinate first). When done, fry
several leaves of sage in butter; this takes less than a minute.
Grate cheese on top of the chicken thighs. Spoon some of the hot
butter over the chicken (this melts the cheese) and put one or two
sage leaves on top of each piece of chicken. Fried sage tastes good
even without the chicken.
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Dried and added to a fire at Thanksgiving or Christmas, it adds a nice
Holiday scent to the house.
From: Leslie Basel
Sage jelly is just terrific with game, lamb, even a Christmas goose.
The recipe is just the same as any other herb jelly (and it requires
quite a bit of culinary sage). (jelly recipe 4.6.1 below).
From: melatchley@aol.com (MelAtchley)
Decorative: Leaves in wreaths and nosegays.
Culinary: Flower in salads or infuse for a light balsamic tea. Leaves
can be mixed with onion for poultry stuffing. Cook with rich, fatty
meats such as pork, duck and sausage. Combine with other strong
flavors: wrap around tender liver and saute in butter; blend into
cheeses. Make sage vinegar and sage butter.
Household: Dried leaves in linent to discourage insects.
Medicinal: Leaves aids in digestion and is antiseptic, antifungal and
contains estrogen. Helps to combat diarrhea. An infusion of sage
leaves and a meal can help digestion.
From: baldwin@frodo.colorado.edu (Dan Baldwin)
I had sage mashed potatoes as a side dish at a five star restaurant
last week--they were really good ! There were flecks of sage
scattered all through the potatoes--Cant wait to try it myself.
-----
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
Sage dries very nicely and looks pretty. Bundle 8-10 sprigs, tie, hang
to dry and put a red bow on it at Xmas. Use as a decoration for
wrapped gifts or give as an small culinary gift.
=====
2.3.4 Which sage do you have?
-----
There are a few other plants that are called Sage and that taste very
bitter. If your sage is called Artemisia in latin forget the cooking
part. If it is Salvia try a leave or two and if the taste is OK just go
on and use it.
==========
2.4 Chives
=====
2.4.3 Using / preserving chives
-----
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Chive Vinegar
When your chives (esp. garlic chives, yummmmmy) are in bloom take four
or five of the prettiest stalks w/heads and put them in a clear jar,
cover w/white vinegar, cover, and stand in a dark cupboard for about
a week. You will have pinkish vinegar w/a heavenly flavour.
DO, however, watch out that the stalks do not have ants!
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
It is also possible to make chive pesto.
From: DonW1948@aol.com
Pesto (Sorrel-Chive Herb Paste)
1 c Sorrel
4 tb Shallots; finely minced
4 tb Pine nuts; ground
3 tb Parsley; chopped
3 tb Chives; chopped
Grated peel of 4 oranges
1/4 Onions, red; chopped
1 tb Mustard, dry
1 ts Salt
1 ts Pepper, black
1 pn Pepper, cayenne
3/4 c Oil. olive
Wash the sorrel and dry it well, by hand or in a salad spinner. Chop
the sorrel coarsely, and again squeeze away any liquid. Blend the
sorrel, shallots, pine nuts, parsley, chives, orange peel and onion
in a food processor or blender. (If using a blender, make sure these
ingredients are already finely chopped.) Add dry mustard, salt,
pepper and cayenne, and mix again. SLOWLY drizzle in the oil while
the blade is moving. Transfer to tempered glass jars and store in
refrigerator (for up to 8 to 10 weeks) or in the freezer for up to a
year.
NOTES: Sorrel's peak season is summer, although you can find hothouse
sorrel year round in some stores. You may reduce the amount of
orange peel by 1/4 or 1/2 if you'd like to emphasize the sorrel or
other flavors. Walnuts or almonds may be substituted for the pine
nuts.
==========
2.5 Saffron
=====
2.5.1 Growing saffron
-----
From: rnold@sanewssa.mnet.uswest.com (Robert G. Nold)
Crocus sativus comes up and blooms without autmun rain in Denver, and
grows throughout the winter here, too. Like all fall-blooming crocus
(of which there are many species), they go dormant in summer.
=====
2.5.2 Harvesting saffron
-----
From: kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr):
...it is the threads that you would collect and dry. There are three of
them (the stigmas) per crocus flower. (Over a million crocus flowers
produce a pound of saffron- phew!)
From: lpdavies@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Leslie Paul Davies):
In planning your planting, estimate 6 mature plants will provide the
stigmas for one small recipe.
=====
2.5.4 Which saffron do you have?
-----
From: chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca (wayne chase):
I have recently heard of a substitute for saffron. Dried Marigolds.
Just air dry well and grind to powder. Use twice the ammount of
marigold as saffron to get same result.
From: melnick@stsci.edu (Rita Melnick):
Saffron comes from crocus sativus, the saffron crocus. It is a fall
blooming crocus. Each flower contains 3 red threads (stigma) that
you pick, then dry, for culinary use. Be sure to get ONLY crocus
sativus, not the other fall-blooming crocuses, as they are NOT
edible.
As for the marigolds, I'm not sure if the above advice applies to all
varieties of marigolds, but I do know that it is true of the pot
marigold, also known as calendula. It gives the yellow coloring of
saffron, but not the saffron taste. Turmeric is also a yellowing
substitute for saffron. But nothing else tastes like saffron!
==========
2.6 Zucchini flowers
=====
2.6.3 Using zucchini flowers
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
From: Joep@reol.com
Zucchini flowers battered and fried are far superior to anything else
you can do with Zucchini. Mix water, flour, salt & pepper to a
pancake consistancy. If you want a fluffier batter add baking
powder. Deep fry and eat them while hot. Tastes like a hint of
Zucchini with creamy texture and chees quality. 4 Zucchini plants is
3 too many :)
==========
2.7 Chamomile
=====
2.7.3 Using / preserving Chamomile
-----
From: clayton2@ix.netcom.com (Jeffrey Clayton)
For tea, use the blossoms only. Harvest when they are in full bloom.
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Chamomile Tea - very strong - is a wonderful hair rinse for shine and
a glint of sunlight.
==========
2.8 Coriander/Cilantro
=====
2.8.1 Growing coriander/cilantro
----- Help! Bolting cilantro! ; on rec.gardens June 1995:
Does anyone know what conditions I should avoid to keep the cilantro
from going to seed?
From: ?:
- If you plant the stuff really close together you'll probably get less
bolting.
From: eaplatt@worm.hooked.net (Elizabeth Platt):
- Don't let it get too hot--like lettuce, it's sensitive to heat. But,
cilantro is an annual, so most pros advise planting several batches
in succession, so that there's always some that isn't going to seed.
By the way, if you've gotten far along enough to worry about it going
to seed, congratulations. All my cilantro is devoured, pronto, by
the slugs and snails as soon as the first tiny leaves appear.
Tastiest seedlings in the garden....
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
To avoid bolting, the hotter the weather the more it should be in the
shade. There are also varieties that are designed to produce leaves
and some designed to produce seeds.
=====
2.8.2 Harvesting cilantro
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
OK, my cilantro bolted! Am I going to have to hand pick each of the
little seeds to restock my coriander spice bottle or does someone
have an easier way?
From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts):
take a brown paper bag, and place the seed 'umbrella' inside. shake
heartily. repeat for each 'umbrella'. this method is useful to
harvest some seed, and keep the rest for hopeful volunteer plants.
for an even easier method, harvest the plant, then beat against the
side of a clean trashcan. most seeds should fall to the bottom.
you'll need to clean it a bit, but it's lot easier than hand-
picking. this methos of course, harvests *all* the seed, as opposed
to number 1.
From: rudy@cae.ca (Rudy Taraschi):
The way I do it is to dry the entire plant, seeds and all. I then get a
large paper shopping bag, hold the dried plant by the stem and thrash
it around in the bag. Most of the seeds usually fall off if the plant
is dry enough.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Even better than a paper bag is the feet of panty hose that you or your
SO has decided are too far gone to wear any more. They are great for
putting over dill and cilantro stems to catch the seed. Just put the
toe where the seed head is and a twist tie around the shin part where
it is over the stem and you will catch almost every seed.
=====
2.8.3 Using / preserving cilantro/coriander
-----
From: gz885@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Susan L. Nielsen)
Not exactly on the matter of etymology, but as to the flavor of
cilantro/coriander leaves, Julia Child has said, [pitch voice
appropriately high in the head]: "I just can't stand it. It tastes
like dirt." Other interpretations invoke soap. I find it quite
fresh in flavor, and even take it straight off the plant in the
garden. Of course, I nibble a lot of things as I dig, but cilantro
is definitely one I enjoy. No accounting for taste.
From: nancy_moote@sunshine.net (Nancy Moote)
Cilantro goes to seed very quickly. You can eat the flowers, though.
They taste like the leaves but lighter and sweeter. Or let them
develop seed for baking, pickling, curries, and planting next year.
They grow so fast that you can plant seeds now for more leaf cilantro
later this summer. Next year maybe try planting a few seeds every 2
weeks for a continuous supply.
==========
2.9 The mints
=====
2.9.1 Growing mint
-----
From: skifast123@aol.com (SkiFast123)
When you move spearmint, trust me and only transplant it into a
container of some sort. You can bury the container if you want.
Good containers to use are those big multi-gallon types that roses
come in. Bury it right up to the rim. Otherwise, in a few yrs, you
will have only one herb in your garden and that is mint because it is
VERY invasive.
=====
2.9.3 Using / preserving mints
-----
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita):
on rec.food.preserving and rec.food.cooking June 1995, a thread named
'I've got way too much peppermint...':
From: hattie@netcom.com (Susan Hattie Steinsapir):
Make a simple sugar syrup and add a whole lot of fresh mint to it. Use
this when making granita or to sweeten sun tea. Lemonade made with
the mint syrup would be nice, too.
I like to make iced tea heavily minted. Steep a whole lot of mint with
the tea bags. Or better yet, boil them with the tea water, then add
the tea and steep. Discard the leaves.
Make cold asian type noodle salads with finely chopped mint added. I
use mint to line a bowl in which I'm serving fresh whole
strawberries. Don't see why you couldn't use them to line a bowl in
which a fruit salad will be served. Melon salad would be nice.
Some middle eastern dishes call for lamb and mint. Ground lamb and
finely chopped fresh mint (and a few other goodies) would make
interesting meat balls.
Use it in flower arrangements. I've put rosemary branches and mint
leaves together when I wanted something but hadn't picked up any
fresh flowers.
Give it away to your friends!
From: Leslie Basel :
You also might want to preserve it in vodka or aquavit...
From: Amy Snell :
Boil a handfull of peppermint leaves in a pot of water, strain it, add
sugar and serve over ice ... wonderful peppermint drink -- tastes a
lot like candy canes, but very summery. Also good hot. Leftovers
can be frozen in an ice cube tray and popped into iced tea to make it
minty.
From: thavey@boi.hp.com (Tom Havey):
Pesto.....a bunch of peppermint leaves, some peppermint or walnut oil,
a bit of sugar, all whipped up in a food processor.
Dried, put in decorative jars for gifts, or mixed in some homemade
potpourri stuff.
Tea.
Raviolis stuffed with peppermint, pepper and raisins and a bit of goat
cheese (or cottage cheese) topped with a light and spicy curry sauce.
From: Libby Goldstein
Just add it to water or seltzer, crush it a bit and serve over ice.
It's lovely.
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Mint planted at the kitchen door keeps ants away.
-----
Spicy Mint tea
From: DonW1948@aol.com
6 c Water
2 Cinnamon sticks
4 Clove, whole
4 Allspice, whole
2 c Mint leaves
Bring the water, cinnamon, cloves and allspice to a boil. Boil for 1
minute. Stir in mint leaves. Remove from heat and steep for five
minutes. strain into cups. From Taste of Home Magazine.
-----
Orange Mint Vinegar
From: DonW1948@aol.com
1 sm Orange; peel; thin spiral - colored portion only
1/2 c Mint leaves; fresh
Vinegar, white
Remove peel (colored portion only) from 1 small orange in a thin
spiral, and place in a sterilized pint jar. Lightly bruise 1/2 cup
fresh mint leaves, add to jar. Heat apple cider or distilled white
vinegar to just below the boiling point. Fill jar with vinegar, and
cap tightly. Allow to stand 3 to 4 weeks. Strain vinegar, discarding
peel and mint. Pour vinegar into a clean sterilized jar, adding a new
sprig of fresh mint, if desired. Seal tightly. Use in dressing for
tossed green salads with orange and grapefruit sections, or in
marinades for chicken or lamb chops.
-----
Mint jelly
From sherae@zeta.org.au (Sheri McRae):
4 lb. tart apples
3 cups strong mint water
2 cups white vinegar
sugar
To make the mint water, soak a large quantity of mint (about a pound)
in 3 cups boiling water overnight. Next day, chop apples and place in a
pan, and barely cover with water. Cover and simmer about an hour until
apples are soft. Strain. Combine apple juice, mint water, and vinegar
and strain again. Measure and place in a pan, adding cup for cup of
sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to boiling and cook
rapidly until the jelly will set. Bottle and seal. Mint Jelly is good
with meats, especially lamb and is also good on toast, etc.
I haven't tried this recipe but it came from a reliable preserving book
which I have used and like.
==========
2.10 Feverfew
=====
2.10.1 Growing feverfew - it does not seem to repel bees.
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
>I bought a feverfew plant today with high hopes of introducing it to
my herb garden. Now I have read (of course I couldn't research
before making my purchase) that bees can't stand the smell of
feverfew and won't come near a garden with feverfew in it!
From: James Michael Kocher
I watched with delight last evening as the bees visited the heavy
blossoms of my foxglove, which are growing right next to feverfew.
I have never noticed a lack of bees, and feverfew grows all over my
garden.
==========
2.11 Tarragon
=====
2.11.1 Growing tarragon
-----
From: southsky@maui.net (Rick Giese)
... can't grow tarragon in East Texas...
Texas in summer is probably too hot for French Tarragon. You might
experiment with a fall planting. French Tarragon is the preferred
type for cooking, and will not grow from seed.
=====
2.11.3 Using / preserving tarragon
-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Tarragon pesto with pecans is a pretty good way to save it.
=====
2.11.4 Which tarragon do you have?
-----
From: HeK Hetta.pp.fi
There are 2 kinds of true tarragon: Artemisia dracunculus var.sativa
(French tarragon) and Artemisia dracunculus var.inodora (Russian
tarragon). The French tarragon cannot be grown from seed, it's taste
is finer but it isn't frosthardy. The Russian tarragon can be grown
from seed, it's taste isn't so good but it will survive outdoors in
Finland.
Then there are the Mexican mint marigold and things like that. Anyone
know the latin names?
==========
2.12 Nasturtiums
=====
2.12.3 Using / preserving nasturtiums
-----
>...toss in a few nasturtium pods for false capers.
So are these before the bloom -- the buds? Or after the bloom -- seed
pods? Do you preserve them?
From: baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (gwen baker)
Nasturtium leaf is wonderful in salad. Slightly bitter but refreshing.
I don't think it preserves very well and should only be used fresh.
If they get aphids - usually after midsummer in zone 5 - simply spray
with a dilute soap. Any kind will work. Then rinse the leaves well
before use.
==========
2.13 Dill
=====
2.13.1 Growing dill
-----
From: kenneth@dicom.se (Kenneth Nilsson)
Here in Sweden dill is the most common herb and there are always
discussions on why it is so difficult to grow. It always (?) dies
when about 3" high and the 'story' here has it that dill is very
susceptible to a root fungus. - By the way, you say "transplanted"
dill into your garden. Does that mean you sow it indoors and plant it
out? - The only solution for ME has been to sow/spread out the seeds
from the mature dill flowers in fall. I take some mature stalks of
dill and walk around the garden shaking them and I have beautiful
dill BUT all over the garden. They just won't grow where I want them
to - in nice rows - THERE! It seems as if the seeds that end up in
non-infected soil thrive whereas the others simply don't make it. If
you don't find that untidy, it's worth a try. I guess you can spread
the seeds in early spring too.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
First, there are many different dill. The best approach I have found
is to find a dill that that survives the winter wherever you are.
Then, it is one tuned to the environment and will grow better. It
will also self seed, both where you want it :-) and where you don't
:-( or :-) depending. It is perfectly acceptable to seed them very
close together.
It is also a good idea to succession plant dill if you want a
continuous supply of it all growing season long.
=====
2.13.2 Harvesting dill
-----
From: Anahita@aol.com (Susan D. Hill):
Dill can be harvested for leaves any time during the growing season. If
you're growing for seeds, wait until the flowers die off and the
seeds are set, then tie little socks around the seed heads. You can
use nylon net, cheesecloth or even old stockings. Any fabric that is
porous. Be sure to tie them on loosely so as not to damage the stem.
Once the seeds are dry, just cut off the stalk and take it inside.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
To harvest, assuming they are planted very close together, cut the
plants off at their base that are the biggest. Then, let the
remaining plants, which will be more properly spaced, grow larger
until they are crowding themselves and pick them. Then repeat the
process until they are all properly spaced and then pick the fronds
as quickly as they reach their size because they are preparing to go
to seed by then. I pick every frond while the plants are going to
seed and it does not seem to affect the seed production at all and I
get more dill fronds that way :-).
To harvest the seeds, take a pair of panty hose past the wearing stage
and cut them off mid-thigh or mid-calf depending on your preference.
Put the seed head, when it is still green, into the foot of the panty
hose and the leg over the stem. Tie a twist tie around the panty
hose on the stem and wait until the seeds are fully developed and
quite dry. Then cut off the stem below the twist tie, bring it into
the house or somewhere else out of the wind and put it over a big
piece of paper. The seed will pretty much fall off the head as it is
dry enough. Don't forget to shake the seed out of the panty hose leg
too :-).
==========
2.13.3 Using / preserving dill
-----
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
I always cut some heads with ~almost~ mature seeds to add to my garlic
dill half-sour jars. Adds extra flavour, and looks so pretty against
one side of the jar.
==========
2.14 Rosemary
=====
2.14.1 Growing Rosemary
-----
From: jrogow@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
This is an herb you can literally kill with kindness! Rosemary will
die if you fertilize her, or water her too much, or plant her in too-
rich earth. Benign neglect will result in big healthy plants. There
are two basic types of Rosemary, the trailing or protstrate type, and
a bush type that will, in time, become large enought to be considered
a shrub. These plants have been used in England in mazes, and in the
USA as landscape plantings. Prostrate Rosemary is an excellent
ground cover.
Rosemary comes in various shades of blue-lavendar, and there is a
pink version that is a magnet for bees (as is the blue). The leaves
are like miniature pine needles, in a lovely blue-green colour.
Rosmarinus, the herb's Latin name, means "sea spray", and the plant
grows especially well near the ocean.
=====
2.14.2 Harvesting Rosemary
-----
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow):
I cut my rosemary back all summer and dry it hung in a closet. This
perfumes my hanging clothing, and keeps it from sunburn.
=====
2.14.3 Using / Preserving Rosemary
-----
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow):
I use it for poultry stuffing, and as a tea to soothe stress. Also,
the tea is a wonderful hair rinse for red heads and brunettes. I
also use the tea in a bath when I ache all over from too much
gardening.
Rosemary may be dried by hanging sprigs in a warm place, then stripping
the leaves and keeping them in a jar or plastic bag. Uses of this
versitile herb include teas (infusions of the leaves) that make
soothing tisanes, enhancing hair rinses, and lovely fragrant soaking
baths.
Leaves are used in cooking and for scented oils, the flowers are often
added to a bride's headdress to insure fidelity.
Rosemary is considered an excellent tonic for headaches, and stomaches.
It is also a traditional memory sharpener. Shakespeare said in
Hamlet . . . "There's Rosemary, that's for rememberance." Mourners
in many countries drop sprays of Rosemary in the coffin of a loved
one as a pledge not to forget the person.
Rosemary recipes
From: jrogow@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
1) A decoction for the bath
Steep several handsfull of Rosemary (fresh or dried) in water for an
hour at simmer. Cool and bottle. Add to bath for soothing and
scent.
2) Rosemary Water
4 TBS Rosemary Flowers
1 Nutmeg, grated
2 TBS Cinnamon, grated
1 QT alcohol spirit (Vodka works well)
Pour liquid over herbs in a clean jar - stand in warm dark place for
two weeks. Strain through cheesecloth or paper coffee strainer.
Use as you would witch hazel, to soothe aches.
3) Rosemary Wine
1 bottle of white wine
1 handfull fresh rosemary (or 2 TBS dried)
2 TBS dried Borage leaves
Steep herbs in wine a week or more, strain as in #2. This is an
excellent nerve tonic.
4) Insect repellant candle
Crumble dried Sage and Rosemary leaves, mix with melted wax, form
into candle (an easy way to do this if you don't have candle molds
is to put a votive candle in a bowl, pour warm herb-wax in the bowl
a bit at a time, and let harden) and use to keep bugs away.
==========
2.15 Lavender
-----
This one is on the wishlist. Would you like to contribute? ;)
==========
2.16 Lemon balm
=====
2.16.3 Using / Preserving Lemon balm
-----
From: doliver@minerva.polaristel.net, Northwind Farm Publications
Someone asked about lemon balm tea: should it be used fresh or dried,
etc. We are great lovers of lemon balm tea. We grow a patch of it,
harvesting the leaves all summer for fresh tea. In the fall, we
gather the crop and air-dry it for winter. The flavor is different
depending on whether it is fresh or dried; I prefer the fresh, but
dried is fine. Bruising the leaves before brewing the tea definitely
intensifies the flavor.
To prepare the tea, just steep the leaves in boiling water for a few
minutes. Personal taste will determine the amount to use (don't
skimp) and the brewing time. Try adding some of your other favorite
tea ingredients for a little variety. Chamomile and hops make a
soothing (maybe sedative or soporific for those sensitive to these
ingredients) combination with the lemon balm.
I have never heard of any toxic effects or contraindications to the use
of lemon balm. From personal experience, I'd say it's perfectly
harmless.
==========
2.17 Garlic
-----
This one is on the wishlist, too. Contributions welcome.
==========
2.18 Thyme
=====
2.18.1 Growing thyme
-----
From: skifast123@aol.com (SkiFast123)
Transplanting thyme: a suggestion made by Adelma Grenier Simmons (of
Caprilands, CT fame) in one of her many herb pamphlets is to bury
one-half of the plant along with the roots in the soil. In other
words, you will only, after transplanting, be able to see 1/2 of the
plant that you had formerly. The other 1/2 will be underground.
Since thyme is tricky to transplant bc its roots are so fine and in
my experience, easy to sever from the main plant, this method has
worked with good results for me.
==========
3 Gardening
==========
3.4 Herbs for shade
-----
From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts)
sweet cicely and woodruff are two i've had good luck with, in heavy
shade. most culinary herbs prefer full sun. those that are shade
tolerant, as a general rule, are not as heavy on flavor.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Many of the broader leaf herbs will grow in the shade, especially the
ones that tend to bolt. A good example of this is cilantro or
parsley.
==========
4 Processing herbs
==========
4.1 Vinegars
-----
Please check at least 2.4.3 / Chive Vinegar, 4.6.3 / Rose Vinegar, and
2.9.3 / Mint Vinegar.
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Basically, if you like it as an herb, put a good sized sprig of it in
some white vinegar and wait a couple of months and try it. This
works with sage (don't leave it too long), oregano, tarragon, thyme
(may have to leave it longer) and chives that I can think of.
Rose petal vinegar
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker):
1 c rose petals
3 whole cloves
2 c white wine vinegar
Trim away white part of rose petals. Wash and drain thoroughly.
Slightly bruise petals and place with cloves in a wide mouth canning
jar. Place vinegar in a medium saucepan bring to a boil. Pour
vinegar over petals, cover at once with metal lids, and screw bands
tight. Let stand at room temp for 1 week. Strain vinegar into
decorative jars, discarding rose petals. Seal jars with a cork or
other airtight lid. Makes 2 cups.
==========
4.2 Herb oil
-----
From: edbw@unixg.ubc.ca (Edgar Wickberg)
All homemade herb or vegetable flavoured oils have doubtful safety if
they are not refrigerated immediately and kept in the refrigerator.
The reason for concern is botulism. Clostridium botulinum, the
organism that makes the deadly poison that results in botulism, grows
in airfree environments. It is only when it grows that it produces
the toxin. Putting anything up in oil produces a really great
airfree ( oxygen free) environment and therfore the risk of toxin
production. Clostridium botulinum is a very common organism in all
of our environments, but the orgamism itself isn't dangerous to us.
It requires, besides the airfree environment, a low acid one and
temperatures above fridge temps. This is probably more than you ever
wanted to hear about why not to make garlic flavoured oil. Why not
dry most of your garlic so it will last and make just a little oil
and keep it in the fridge. To make the kind that you store in the
fridge, just heat a small quanitity of oil ( of your choice), put a
few peeled cloves of garlic in a small bottle, pour the hot oil over,
cool for half an hour, cover and refrigerate.
-----
From: baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (gwen baker)
Take the cleaned herbs and place into a jar (a mason jar will do).
Heat the oil to just warm (too hot and you will cook the herbs
instead of extracting the taste), pour the warm oil over the herbs
and let set. Check every 3 days to once a week, straining and
adding additional herbs until the desired flavor is reached.
HeK comment to above: keep in refrigerator until desired flavor is
reached and thereafter.
==========
4.3 Drying your herbs
-----
From: aks3@cornell.edu (Amy Smith):
You don't need anything terribly high tech to dry herbs...
For leaves you can use old window screens in a DRY DARK place (like the
attic). If you are growing seedlings, place the screens on the top of
the fluorescent lights.
For roots you might want to use the oven on low. Chopping the roots
first helps. Food hydrators are better for roots.
Flowers are like leaves but you MUST be careful about keeping it dark.
(the sun leeches the nutrients out of herbs and they disintegrate
too.)
You can also hang bunches of leaves on string in a dark place outside
(if you are in a fairly low humid climate) Or put flowers or leaves
in paper sacks and hang them to dry (shake them or stir them
periodically so they don't stick together inside the sack.)
From: ?:
Never store herbs in completely airtight containers unless you have
access to a dessicant (like you get in pill bottles) to store with
them since you will never perfectly dry them and therefore they need
to breath.
From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow), in response to above:
An old remedy - tie a few grains of rice in a bit of cheese cloth and
add it to the bottle if you must keep it tightly closed.
From HeK:
Never use a microwave to dry herbs. First, timing and stuff is
different for different microwave ovens, second, the taste isn't that
good, and third, you can end up with a fire in your kitchen.
If you use a dehydrator never go above 40 deg. Celcius. Most herbs are
tasty because of volatile oils and in high temperatures these
volatile oils get volatile and your herbs get tasteless.
And, if you use the bunched-herbs -method outlined above, strip the
leaves off the stalks after your herbs are dry. Stalks aren't that
tasty in soups, and can be tossed on barbecue coals to give some
taste there.
==========
4.4 Freezing your herbs
-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
The best way to do it is to cut the leaves off and then put them into a
tight container and freeze them. If you are in a hurry you can put
in the stems too and cut the leaves off later.
From HeK:
I've found the best way to freeze parsley is to cut it fine before
freezing. Then you can scrap some directly from the jar into your
soup/sauce/whatever without having to cut it while it's frozen /
going mushy on you. I've done this for the others I've frozen as well
- dill at least is way too stringy to be easily cut when frozen.
From: baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (gwen baker)
Chop the herbs into the desired size and place into a ice cube tray.
You can fit a premeasured amount in so you know how much in each
segment (I use a tblsp). Then add just enough water to cover the
chopped leaf and freeze. You can pop out the cubes and store in bags
and have the flavor of fresh herbs year round.
-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Another great way is to make them into pesto. Try different herbs with
pignoli nuts, pecans (dill and pecan is one of my favorites),
walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, etc. until you find the combinations you
like. We freeze the pestos by putting saran wrap over a pint ice
cream top (yes, the plastic one from a Dutch sounding one made really
in NJ :-)), forcing in as much pesto as we can, and putting the saran
wrap over the top. Then we wrap it in aluminium foil and label it
and put it in the freezer. The best part is we have it all winter
long and it tastes great on many things, especially pasta, chicken,
pork, shrimp, fish, etc.
==========
4.6 Jelly, syrup and other sweet stuff
=====
4.6.1 Flower / herb jelly
-----
Basic flower jelly recipe - can also be used for herbs
From: bhaile@leo.vsla.edu (Bess Haile):
2 cups flower infusion:
steep 2+ cups moderately packed flowers in 2 cups boiling water
at least 30 minutes
1/4 cup lemon juice (E. Toley says not to use bottled, but I do)
4 cups sugar
3 oz of liquid pectin (this will be 1/2 box of liquid Certo)
Bring first 3 ingredients to a boil you can't stir down. Add pectin
and boil 2 minutes. Ladle into hot sterile jars. Seal in preferred
manner.
Note (Bess Haile): I prefer the liquid certo to the powdered. It seems
to jell better with flowers. Also, I find the extra minute of
boiling helps to create a stiffer jelly, though 1 minute will create
a clear jam-like texture. I always use the 4 oz canning jars because
I can give away some of the jellies without running out of all my
stock. Not everyone likes jelly from flowers. My own family HATES
rose jelly which is one of my favorites. Also, note, rose petals
have a bitter white bit where the petals join the flower. Cut these
off. I do this by holding the flower, step up, and cutting around
the flower, leaving all the bitter bits on the flower. I've used
Rose, Honeysuckle, Lavender, and many herbs too. Rosemary makes a
good jelly for a glaze on roast pork (and probably lamb). Lemon
verbena and spearmint are great too!
Rose petal jelly
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker)
1 1/2 c rose petals
1 1/2 c white grape juice
1/2 water
3 1/2 c sugar
1 pkg liquid fruit pectin
Trim away white part of rose petals, wash petals thoroughly, and drain.
Combine rose petals and grape juice in a sauce pan. Bring to a
rolling boil, stirring constantly; cook 1 min, stirring frequently.
Add fruit pectin; cook stirring constantly, until mixture returns to
a rolling boil. Continue boiling 1 min, stirring frequently. Remove
from heat, and skim off foam with a metal spoon. Quickly pour jelly
into hot sterilized jar leaving 1/4 in headspace; cover with metal
lids and screw tight. Process in boiling water bath for 5 min.
Makes 3 pints.
For fun leave the rose petals in and you can tell folks you are eating
roses - they end up with the funniest looks on their faces.
Rose petal jelly II
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker)
2 quarts fresh rose petals, loosely packed (about 3 dozen roses)
1 quart boiling water
4 cups sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Place petals in a large bowl. Add boiling water. Cover and steep for 20
minutes, or until all color is out of the petals. Strain liquid into
a shallow pan. Add sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat,
stirring constantly until sugar has dissolved, and mixture comes to a
rolling boil. Maintain boil until mixture gives a jelly test (2 drops
form on side of spoon, then flow together). Skim. Pour into hot
sterile jars. Cover with melted parafin (or use your prefered sealing
method). Makes 8 x 6-ounce jars.
Note (Gwen Baker): The rose petal jelly I have had used added pectin.
This recipe thinks rose petals have enough of their own.
Violet flower jelly
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker)
Violet infusion:
2 cups violet blossoms (don't have to pack tightly, just nicely
full cups will do)
2 cups boiling water
Pour boiling water on blossoms and cover 12-24 hours (If you can't get
to the cooking within 24 hours, store in the refrigerator).
Jelly recipe:
2 cups infusion
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 pkg. powdered pectin
4 cups sugar
Bring first 3 ingredients to a rolling boil (one you can't stir down).
Add sugar all at once and bring back to rolling boil. Boil for 1
minute. Remove from heat and let boiling die down. Skim off foam
with large spoon. Pour immediately into hot sterilized jars and
seal. Makes 4-5 cups of jelly. I use the half cup jars so I can give
away samples without giving away everything.
Note (Gwen Baker): I've made two batches of this jelly and it is
delicious! The lemon juice turns the blue infusion the most glorious
amethyst color. No fruit jelly I've ever made has this color. It is
tart and lemony, but does not taste exactly like lemon. My violets
are not parma violets, just plain old Virginia weeds.
=====
4.6.2 Syrup
-----
Rose petal syrup
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker):
1 c rose petals
1 c water
1 1/2 c sugar
3 whole cloves
Trim away white part of rose petals was and drain thoroughly. Combine
rose petals and water in a sauce pan bring to boil. Then simmer for
5 min. Add sugar and cloves. Simmer until sugar dissolved(do not
reboil) strain petals refrigerate. Makes 1 2/3 cup.
Use this for
Rose cooler:
1/2 c rose syrup
2 c club soda
fresh rose petals.
Combine soda and syrup garnish with rose petals. Makes 2 1/2 cups.
==========
4.7 Potpourris and other uses for dried herbs / flowers
-----
Meaning non-culinary uses, in this culinary herbfaq. ;)
From: baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (gwen baker)
Dried herbs can also go into herb pillows and sleep pillows.
=====
4.7.1 Stovetop potpourri
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
From: clayton2@ix.netcom.com (Jeffrey Clayton):
My favorite potpourri recipe is:
dried orange peel, dried pine needles, dried mint, cinnamon sticks
(broken into pieces), cloves
This is a stove top potpourri -- the kind you put in water and simmer.
Aromatherapy says this combination of scents is supposed to keep
colds away.
=====
4.7.2 Dry potpourri
----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
From: hag@aisb.ed.ac.uk (Mandy Haggith):
I've been making pot-pourri since I was about 7 and still use the same
method I used then - shoe boxes under the bed. I find that the number
one ingredient is rose petals, best of all from wild dog roses, but
any smelly rose will do. You'll need MASSES of rose petals. Lavender
is also wonderful. Pick the flowers (and herb leaves) when they're
warm and dry and smelly, stick them loosely in the shoe boxes (either
mixed up or not, depending on what you want to do with them) and stir
them with a warm dry hand a couple of times a day (or more). The
petals will gradually dry out and you can use them in pot-pourri
recipes after a few weeks. Under the bed is a good place because it
is usually pretty dry, it's dark (so the petals keep some of their
colour) and the smell of the drying petals gives you sweet dreams! I
find the airing cupboard is too hot and dries the leaves out too fast
leaving them shrivelled and not so sweet smelling.
=====
4.7.3 Drying flowers whole for potpourri
-----
From: diana.politika@tenforward.com (Diana Politika):
If you want to dry the peony intact, either bury it in silica gel or
use a 50/50 mixture of borax and cornmeal. Leave it buried for about
2 weeks and then tilt the container to get the mix to shift off the
flower. Silica works best, but the other is alot cheaper. If using
the borax mix, use a small soft paintbrush to get all the dust off.
I've used many of these in arrangments and everyone goes nuts over
them.
From: baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (gwen baker)
When drying flowers using silica be careful. It can speed the drying
process, but it can also cause discoloration and leave a residue
behind. In about the same amount of time the flowers can be dried
naturally. Silica does allow you to keep a flower whole or to
preserve a shape. There is also a liquid ( I think it is a
glycerine) that will preserve greenery and keep it soft and flexible.
==========
4.8 Alcoholic beverages
=====
4.8.1 Rose petal wine
-----
From: Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gwen Baker)
(who got it from Terry Pelley on rec.winemaking)
One day before you prepare the must you should make a yeast starter:
For one gallon of wine:
4 oz. Water
1 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp nutrient
Pinch of citric acid
1/4 tsp yeast
For five gallons of wine:
2 cups water
2 tbs sugar
1/2 tsp nutrient
1/4 tsp citric acid
1 package of yeast
Mix all the ingredients in an appropriate size bottle and shake to
combine. Loosely cover the bottle, do not seal it tight; a cloth
held in place with a rubber band will work fine. After sitting for a
day this mixture should be fermenting and can be added to the must.
The must:
6 cups rose petals (fresh) whites removed
1/4 lb chopped white raisins
5 3/4 cups sugar
2 tsp yeast nutrient
2 tsp acid blend
1 Campden Tablet (crushed)
Yeast - All purpose or Rhinewine
Boil one gallon of water and combine with rose petals, raisings, and
sugar in your primary fermenter. Allow the mixture to cool to around
75 degrees and add yeast nutrient, acid blend and campden tablet.
==========
5 Sites to see
-----
Sorry, folks. This one is in the wishlist, and is a construction site
besides.
==========
5.1 FTP sites
-----
==========
5.2 WWW pages
-----
==========
THE END.
==========
From: "Mary Ellen Curtin"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Deer-defeating plants
Date: Mon, 30 May 94 00:04:43 -0500
There have been a number of questions from time to time about plants
that deer _don't_ like to eat; as in, are there any? I picked up the
following list at a local wildflower preserve, it being a reprint from
a New Jersey magazine. The emphasis is thus on plants suitable for the
mid-atlantic states, but these genera are likely to be good places to
start for much of the rest of the country, too.
As usual, this list comes without any kind of warranty: if deer (or
other critters) get hungry enough, they will eat ANYTHING. Last year
some mammal (possibly a deer) ate the entire flower spike off one of my
digitalis plants, which should be not merely distasteful but poisonous.
But who knows, maybe the creature was suffering from a heart condition.
So here's the list, titled: "Best Choices for Gardening with Deer." I
have marked shade-tolerant species with *.
Perennials:
Achillea (yarrow)
Aconitum (monkshood)*
Allium (garlic, chives, etc.)
Anaphalis (pearly everlasting)
Anchusa (bugloss)
Anemome -- Japanese and grape-leafed only*
Aquilegia canadensis (native columbine)*
Artemisia
Aruncus (goatsbeard)*
Asclepias (butterfly weed -- _not_ butterfly bush)
Astilbe*
Borage
Caltha (marsh marigold)*
Centaurea montana (mountain bluet)
Clematis
Convallaria (lily-of-the-valley)*
Convolvulus (morning glory?)
Delphinium
Dicentra (bleeding heart)*
Digitalis (foxglove) [self-seeding biennial]*
Echinacea (purple coneflower)
Erigeron (fleabane)
Euphorbia (spurge)
Geranium (cranesbill -- _not_ common geranium)
Gysophila (baby's breath)
Helianthus (sunflower)
herbs, various
Lavandula (true lavender)
Lunaria (money plant/honesty)[self-seeding biennial]
Lychnis (maltese cross)
Mertensia (virgina bluebells)*
Monarda (bee balm)
Myosotis (forget-me-not) [self-seeding biennial]*
Physostegia (obedient plant)
Papaver (oriental poppy)
Pulmonaria (lungwort)
Ranunculus (buttercup)
Rudbeckia gloriosa (coneflower; aka R. hirta -- _not_ Goldstrum)
Salvia (sage)
Stachys (lamb's ear)
Stokesia (stoke's aster)
Thalictrum (meadow rue)
Tradescantia (spiderwort)*
Trillium*
Trollius (globeflower)
Vinca major (periwinkle)*
Annuals:
Ageratum
Calendula (pot marigold)
Centaurea rutifola (dusty miller)
Cosmos
Helichrysum (strawflower)
herbs, various
Lantana (trailing lantana)
Salvia (sage)
Bulbs:
Canna lily
Gladiola
Hyacinth
Narcissus (daffodils and jonquils)
Good gardening.
Mary Ellen
internet:
postal: 9 Titus Mill Rd., Pennington, NJ 08534, USA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Question on deer proof plants
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 06:45:30 GMT
Here's a list of plants that deer don't like that I posted a while
back:
Acanthus Kniphofia
Aconitum Leucojum
Agave Lirioe
Allium Lychnis coronaria
Amaryllis Melianthus
Artemisia Melissa
Arum Melittis
Arundo Mentha
Astilbe Mirabilis
Campanula Myosotis
Carex Nepeta
Centaurea Origanum
Ceratostigma Paeonia
Chrysanthemum maximum Papaver
Cortaderia Phormium
Crinum Polygonatum
Crocosmia Potentilla
Dicentra Pulmonaria
Digitalis Romneya
Epimedium Rudbeckia
Euphorbia Saliva
Ferns Satureja
Festuca glauca Scabiosa
Filipendula Sisyrinchium
Gaillardia Tellima
Geranium Thalictrum
Gerbera Tiarella
Gunnera Trillium
Helianthus Veratrum
Helichrysum Vinca
Hosta Iris
Hope it helps!
Chris
Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois
From bloke@MAGI.COMSat Feb 17 13:54:20 1996
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 16:55:06 -0800
From: Bill Loke
Reply to: Organic Gardening Discussion List
To: Multiple recipients of list OGL
Subject: Re: Deer Problem
Deborah Weyman wrote:
>
> I live in a wooded area in northern New Jersey. I love the deer, but I
> also love to garden, especially with perennials. Does anyone have a list
> of perennials that deer are less likely to eat? What are some ideas for
> organic deer repellants?
>
> Deb Weyman
> Trenton State College
> weyman@Trenton.EduI am quoting from an Organic Gardening Dec 87 issue page 31 (A Deer Proof
Garden) The deer usually stay away from the following unless they are
really hungry.
TREES: California Bay or Oregon Myrtle, Edible Fig*, Holly, Maple, Oak,
Pine, Redwood, Spruce, Sweet Gum*, Tanbark oak, Walnut*
SHRUBS and VINES: Australian fuchsia, Bottle Brush, California
fuchsia,Catalina cherry, Clematis, Daphne*, Carolina jessamine*, Dusty
Millar*, English Lavender, Euonymus(spindle tree), Euryops, Hazelnut,
Jasmine, Jerusalem cherry, Juniper, Mexican Mock Orange, Natal Plum,
Oleander*, Pampas grass, Pitcher sage, Pomegranate*, Red-hot Poker,
Red-leaf or Japanese barberry, Rhododendron (except azalea-leaved
varieties), Rock-rose*, Rosemary, Santolina, Scotch broom, Shrubby
cinquefoil, Spanish Lavender, spicebush, Star Jasmine, Wild
Lilac(blueJean/emily brown only), Wire Grass, Yucca.
GROUND COVERS: Aaron's beard or creeping St John's wort, Algerian ivy,
Blue star creeper, Carpet bugle, English Ivy, Manzanita, Myrtle,
Peppermint, Sea pink, Spearmint, Trailing African daisy.
FLOWERS,FERNS,HERBS: Ageratum, Anemone, Bells of Ireland, Black-eyed
SUsan, Bleeding Heart*, Bracken, Calla Lily, Canterbury bell, Chain fern,
Chives, Chrysanthemum*, Coreopsis, Daffodil, Daylily, Deer-tongue fern,
Fescue grass, Foxglove, Gaillardia, Iceland Poppy, Iris, Lady Fern, Lily*
, Lily of the nile, Marguerite*, Mullein Pink;rose campion, Naked Lady
Lily, Oriental Poppy, Rock Aster, Snowflake, Sword fern, Tulip*,
Wake-robin, Wood fern, Yarrow, Zinnia.
CACTUSES AND SUCCULENTS; Any cactus with stout spines, a Sedum variety
called Utah, Spiny varieties of Hens and chickens.
I hope this helps. If you require the latin names, I can Supply them as
well. Any other thing you want to grow will have to be raised up,
trellised or wire-protected until they are big enough to fend for
themselves
*Deer May sample once but won't come back. Please note there are
always exceptions with unusual taste buds.
bloke@magi.com (Bill Loke)Z5a
Kars, Ontario, Canada
'Whatever grows, behave like you meant it to grow.'
From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 21:46:49 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:42:06 -0800
From: Brian Lo
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Faba Beans
FABA BEAN Vicia faba
(see seperate files on beans and lima beans)
Faba bean, also called Fababean, Broadbean and Fava Bean is a cool
temperature vegetable popular in the Middle East and Europe, and uncommon in
the U.S. Pods are shelled when seeds are green for cooking as a green
vegetable, commonly in stews. The seed may be boiled, or used roasted as a
snack food. They are also harvested after the seed has dried and ground to a
flour and used for falafel, a popular middle eastern food.
VARIETIES
Spring planted varieties require approximately 130-150 days, while over-
wintering varieties require approximately 240 days to reach dry seed maturity.
Green-pod harvest for green seed would be about 30 days less:
Aquadulce Claudia for overwinter or spring planting; Aprovecho Select,
Green Windsor, Broad Windsor, Equina, Ipro for spring planting. Dwarf type:
Coles Dwarf Prolific (suited to windy areas where plants may be blown over).
Heat tolerant type: Foul Muddamma. For trial - spring planting: Dread-
nought, Acme, Stereo.
SEED COMPANIES
Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Bountiful Gardens, 19550 Walker Road, Willits, CA 95490
Crookham Co. Caldwell, ID 83606
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Select Seeds, Foss Hill Road, Albion, Maine 04910
Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 No. Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321-4598
Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4272 Boise, ID 83711
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Territorial Seed Co. POB 27, Lorane, OR 97451
Samual Yates, Ltd., Withyfold Dr., Macclesfield, Cheshire SKI0 2BE, England
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
SOILS
Faba beans do best on well-drained silt loam soils. Sandy loams are but
require more frequent irrigation. Faba beans produce best on soils which are
neutral or slightly acidic. Lime should be applied if pH levels are below
5.6. Follow soil test recommendations.
Rotate faba beans with grains or other crops to reduce damage from
soil-borne diseases. Crop residues of lettuce, carrots, cabbage, parsnips,
and cucurbits may harbor white mold sclerotia.
SEED TREATMENT
Use fungicide and insecticide treated seed.
SOIL TEMPERATURE
Faba beans germinate and grow well under cool soil conditions such as
those favorable for production of peas. Fields may be planted as soon as they
can be worked in the spring, however, delaying planting till June or July may
reduce broad bean virus or chocolate spot infection. In the temperate areas
of the Pacific Northwest, cold-hardy varieties like Aquadulce Claudia may be
planted in the fall (late September or October).
SEEDING AND SPACING
Faba Bean seed numbers about 200-800 per pound. About 60-80 lbs. are
used per acre. Seed should be planted 5-6 inches apart in the row, with rows
24-36 inches apart. Plant populations should be about 60,000 per acre. Use
heavier seeding rate for fall planting than spring planting to compensate for
some over-winter mortality.
FERTILIZER
Good fertilizer usage is only one of the important management practices,
including proper seeding, pest control, adequate irrigation, and timely
harvest. Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and
other cultural practices, crop response from fertilizer may not always be
accurately predicted. Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of
specific crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of
application.
Fertilizer applications for faba beans should insure adequate levels of
all nutrients. Optimum fertilization is intended to result in for top quality
and yield, commensurate with maximum returns.
Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs. The Oregon State University Extension Service
agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil
sample bags and information sheets.
Recommendations are based on a row spacing of 36". With decreased row
spacings fertilizer rates should be increased. Use the following recommended
guidelines:
For WESTERN OREGON:
NITROGEN (N)
Rates of 50 to 80 lbs of N/A are generally recommended where faba beans
are grown on fields having a history of heavy fertilization and intensive
culture. Rates of 80 to 110 lbs of N/A are recommended where forage legumes
or heavily fertilized vegetable crops were not grown the preceding year.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at planting for vigorous early
seedling growth. Bands should be located 2 to 3 inches to the side and 2 to 3
inches below the seed.
Response is greatest from bands properly placed at 2 x 2 inches.
If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of
for P reads (ppm): phosphate (P2 O5) lb/A:
0 - 15120 - 150
15 - 60 90 - 120
Over 60 60 - 90
POTASSIUM (K)
Potassium should be applied before planting or banded at planting time.
Amounts above 60 lbs K2 O per acre should be broadcast and worked into the
seed bed.
If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of
for K reads (ppm): potassium(K2 O) (lb/A)
0 - 7590 - 120
75 - 15060 - 90
150 - 20040 - 60
Over 200 None
SULFUR (S)
Include 20-30 lbs/A of S in the fertilizer program for faba beans. S
is sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as
N, P, and K, but may not be present in sufficient quantity.
Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate. Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.
Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes
available to plants. The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually
rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil.
S in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time. Some S fertili-
zer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an acidifying
effect on soil.
The S requirements of faba beans can be provided by:
1. The application of 20-30 lbs S/A in the form of sulfate at or prior
to seeding.
2. Applying 30-40 lbs S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental
S the preceding year.
3. Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre-
quently.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
When the soil test value is below 1.5 meq Mg/100g of soil or when cal-
cium (Ca) is ten times more than the Mg, apply 10 to 15 lb Mg/A banded at
planting. If deficiency symptoms appear, spray with 10 lbs Epsom salts in 100
gals of water/A.
Mg can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material and
reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone. Dolomite
should be mixed into the seed bed several weeks in advance of seeding.
BORON (B)
Responses of faba beans to B applications have not been observed in
experiments on growers' fields in western Oregon.
ZINC (Zn)
Responses of faba beans to B applications have not been observed in
experiments on growers' fields in western Oregon.
When the soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected on
all soils.
Where Zn is required, either 10 lb/A of Zn should be broadcast and
worked into the soil prior to planting or 3 to 4 lbs/A of Zn should be banded
with the fertilizer at planting time.
A broadcast application of 10 lb Zn/A should supply Zn needs for 2 or 3
years.
LIME
Lime applications should be made when the soil pH is 5.5 or below, or
when calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq Ca/100g of soil.
If the OSU SMP Buffer Apply this amount
test for lime reads: of lime (T/A):
Below 5.2 4 - 5
5.2 - 5.6 3 - 4
5.6 - 5.9 2 - 3
5.9 - 6.2 1 - 2
Over 6.2 0
The liming rate is based on 100-score lime. Lime should be mixed into
the seed bed at least several weeks before seeding. A lime application is
effective over several years. Do not apply lime when the soil pH is above
6.0.
EASTERN OREGON, east of the Cascades:
lbs. per acre
Nitrogen (N): 50-80
Phosphorus (P2 O5): 50-100
Potassium (K2 O): up to 50
Sulfur (S): 20-30
IRRIGATION
Irrigation is not recommended until about 2 weeks after planting. Too
much water at seeding slows growth and may increase root rots.
During the rest of the season, keep moisture levels in the top foot of
soil at or above 50% of available water. To avoid any water stress the two
critical times during bean development are during bloom and pod set. It is
advisable to irrigate in the early morning hours so the plants may dry off
before the night. A total of 10" - 16" may be needed in western Oregon
depending on location planting date, seasonal variation and variety.
Approximate summer irrigation needs for the Hermiston area have been
found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August.
Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.
HARVESTING AND HANDLING
Faba beans are usually harvested when the seeds have reached full size
but are still green. They may also be harvested after the pods and seeds have
dried for various uses. When harvested green, pods may be sold for shelling
by consumers or shelled, and the green seed packaged for sale.
Store at 40 to 45 F. and relative humidity of 95%. Faba bean pods or
seed lose moisture rapidly if not properly protected by packaging or by a
relative humidity of 95% or above. When the relative humidity approaches
saturation, as in consumer packages, temperatures above 45 F. must be avoided
or decay is likely to be serious within a few days.
Containers of faba beans should be stacked to allow abundant air
circulation. If containers are packed close together, the temperature may
rise because of the heat of respiration, and the faba beans will deteriorate
rapidly. When faba beans are stored in large bins or pallet boxes, provision
should be made for rapid cooling. Faba beans stored too long or at too high a
storage temperature are subject to various decays.
PEST CONTROL FOR FABA BEANS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti-
vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources
reduces risk from "seed born" diseases.
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions in
the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended
as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable
producers. Address comments or questions to your
County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour,
Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 9733l
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
Article 9754 (136 more) in rec.gardens:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Subject: Fertilizer FAQ
Date: 5 Aug 92 20:54:29 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 409
FERTILIZER FAQL
Initial writing by Kay Klier, using materials from
a wide variety of sources. Primarily written from
the point of view of NPK. Needs work on using
green manures and cover crops as nutrient sources,
since I mainly use them to add organic matter.
CONTENTS:
I. Fertilizer overview
II. Plant nutrients
III. What is a complete formula for plants?
IV. The numbers on the fertilizer sack
V. Calculating amounts of fertilizer to apply
VI. When to fertilize
VII. Methods of application
A. Commercial formulations
1. Dry
2. Soluble
B. Natural forms
VIII. Fertilizers vs. soil amendments
IX. Approximate analyses of commonly available natural
fertilizers and soil amendments
A. Seed meals
B. Manures
C. Animal byproducts
D. Stem and leaf products
E. Miscellaneous organics
F. Miscellaneous inorganics
X. Experiences with various formulations
A. Osmocote
B. Peter's soluble general purpose
C. Granular commercial fertilizers
D. "Weed and feed" lawn fertilizers
E. "Lawn fertilizers"
F. Houseplant formulations
I. FERTILIZER OVERVIEW
Fertilizers are materials that contain appreciable amounts of
plant nutrients. Probably the most familiar categories of
fertilizer are "chemical" vs. "organic": these could better be
termed synthetic vs. natural.
The synthetic fertilizers consist almost entirely of nitrogen,
potassium and phosphorus (the three nutrients most likely to be
in short enough supply to limit growth), in forms that are
readily utilized by plants. In contrast, the natural fertilizers
are more likely to have significant amounts of micronutrients
(trace minerals) and the macronutrients are likely to be in forms
that are not as readily absorbed-- they are in forms that must
first be metabolized by soil microorganisms before they are
available to plants. There may also be significant bulk: useful
for tilth improvement.
Thus the synthetic fertilizers are "fast", while the natural
fertilizers tend to be more "time release". Some people feel
that synthetic fertilizers "poison" the soil, and will not use
them in any instance; others feel that synthetics are perfectly
acceptable if used properly.
Synthetic fertilizers can be one of the major sources of
groundwater pollution (as can runoff from manure piles): the
nitrogen is in such a soluble form that it tends to leach from
the point of application. Overfertilization of natural bodies of
water tends to lead to algal blooms and subsequent death of fish
from oxygen depletion. High nitrate levels in drinking water can
cause reduction in oxygen carrying capacity in red blood cells.
Reduced oxygen levels can cause retardation in young children and
fetuses. If you apply a highly soluble fertilizer, please use it
thoughtfully.
II. PLANT NUTRIENTS
Besides carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, the essential minerals for
most plants are:
Chemical
Element Symbol Available form:
MACRO Nitrogen N NH4+, NO3-
Phosphorus P HPO4-, H2PO4-
Potassium K K+
SECONDARY
Sulfur S SO4--
Calcium Ca Ca++
Magnesium Mg Mg++
MICRONUTRIENTS
Iron Fe Fe++, Fe+++
Manganese Mn Mn++
Boron B H2BO3
Copper Cu Cu++
Zinc Zn Zn++
Molybdenum Mo MoO4--
Chlorine Cl Cl-
It is relatively rare for soils to be deficient in copper, zinc,
molybdenum or chlorine. If needed, the micronutrients plus
magnesium are often applied as a chelated mixture. Sequestrene
is a common US brand.
III. WHAT IS A COMPLETE FORMULA FOR PLANTS?
Different plants require different proportions of nutrients, but
you can get some idea of the general requirements by looking at
one of the commonly used research formulations: Knop's solution
with Nitsch's micronutrients. This will support hydroponic
growth: (soil-less culture)
IV. NUMBERS ON THE FERTILIZER SACK
The three numbers on a commercial fertilizer bag are in the order
NPK: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (=kalium). The actual
numbers are percentages: 20-20-20 fertilizer is 20% (by weight)
nitrogen, 20% phosphorus, 20% potassium.
When choosing a fertilizer formulation, choose a balanced
fertilizer for most purposes, one in which the three numbers are
approximately equal. If you wish to favor growth of leaves over
flowers (for instance for a leafy vegetable crop, or a lawn,
choose a fertilizer with a higher first number; for flowers or
fruits, choose a higher middle number, for better root growth,
choose a higher last number. NPK: leaves: flowers: roots
V. CALCULATING AMOUNTS TO APPLY
Typically, a soil test will tell you that X pounds per thousand
square feet will be required for a certain level of productivity
(those who are fortunate enough to think metric can use
appropriate units). As an example, consider someone who has just
gotten a recommendation to apply 3 lbs of N per thousand square
feet, in a divided (spring and fall) application. Our hapless
homeowners wish to get their money's worth from the new mower he
purchased for their 20,000 sq ft bluegrass lawn.
To determine how many square feet a bag of fertilizer will cover
at 1 lb per 1000 sq ft, multiply the weight of the bag by the
percentage nitrogen on the label, then multiply by 1000.
Assume this 30-1-1 fertilizer is sold in 40 lb sacks. One bag
will cover 40 * .30 * 1000 = 12,000 sq ft at that rate.. But
since we want 3 lbs N per 1000 sq ft, one sack will cover 4,000
sq ft, and our homeowners will buy 5 sacks of fertilizer
(20,000sq ft/(4,000 sq ft/sack)) and use 3 sacks in the spring
and 2 in the fall...
VI. WHEN TO FERTILIZE
Quickly absorbed fertilizers should be applied only when a plant
is about to begin a growth spurt, or during heavy growth. You
should not fertilize heavily just before a plant will be going
into dormancy (this may keep the plant from "hardening off"
properly, and can result in winter damage. If you choose to use
"high management" on a plant (heavy fertilization), you should
also count on increasing water to the plant. If you anticipate
major insect damage (perhaps a hatch of grasshoppers), decrease
fertilization: tender plant tissues are more subject to damage
than tissues that grew more slowly. In general, a _slightly_
"hungry" plant is more resistant to pests and diseases than an
overfed one.
Overfeeding can also result in salts building up in the soil.
The salt build-up decreases the water potential of the soil, and
can actually reach the point that a plant cannot extract enough
water from a moist but salinized soil. These soils must be
"cured" by leaching with tremendous amounts of water.
Although a "proper" fertilization regime would include soil and
plant analyses, most of us guesstimate fertilizer requirements.
A cautious approach to guesstimation is to observe the plants for
nutrient deficiency symptoms (you'll need to compare to photos
often found in basic agronomy, horticulture or botany texts). If
any are suspected, apply a weak fertilizer and observe for
increased growth. If this is observed, you can repeat the
application. Stop as soon as any signs of overfertilization
(weak, floppy growth, all leaves and no flowers, salt burned
leaves) are observed.
Slow release fertilizers can be applied at almost any time, and
there is relatively little danger of "burning" the plants.
Notable exceptions are urine or fresh manures, which can be very
high N. Composted manures are less "lively".
VII. METHODS OF APPLICATION
A. COMMERCIAL FORMULATIONS
1. DRY
Basic forms of commercial fertilizer include dry granular, slow
release (e.g. Osmocote (tm)), and soluble. Granular fertilizers
are usually broadcast or used as a side dressing (dug into a
trench near the plants), slow release fertilizers are often used
for high-value crops like greenhouse plants and as "starters"
when planting trees or shrubs.
Two additional forms of dry fertilizer are available: fertilizer
"spikes" meant to be hammered into the soil near trees or shrubs,
or inserted into soil of potted plants, and solid pellets meant
for use in such devices as the Ross Root Feeder (tm).
2. SOLUBLE
Soluble fertilizers (Peters is a popular US brand) were once
nearly confined to greenhouse use, but are now becoming popular
for foliar fertilization of lawns and bedding plants. These are
usually applied diluted in large quantities of water, using a
hose-end sprayer or proportioning device (e.g. Hoze-on
proportioner (tm)). They may also be injected directly into
irrigation systems. Because these soluble fertilizers are
readily available to plants, most growers have found that using
weaker solutions more often than label recommendations give
superior results. A typical schedule might be 20-25% of the
recommended strength applied at weekly intervals rather than the
suggested monthly intervals.
Growers of some specialty plants have reported problems with
colored soluble fertilizers (a dye is added so the person who is
watering can see if fertilizer or plain water is coming from the
hose). Some manufacturers are now producing soluble products
without the tracker dye. Crops often reported affected by the
dye include ferns, lower plants and orchids.
Highly soluble fertilizers like these can pollute groundwater
unless carefully applied.
B. NATURAL FERTILIZERS
Because these generally have lower analyses than commercial
fertilizers, generally much larger quantities are applied. This
has the advantage of improving soil tilth by adding organic
matter, and these generally require no additional micronutrient
correction. You can also get a fair amount of exercise spreading
and digging in a natural fertilizer.
Another common way to use these fertilizers is as a "tea", an
infusion of (for instance) manure in water. Water is added to a
container of manure, the contents stirred and allowed to settle,
then the water siphoned off for use, often on potted plants.
Additional water can be added and the process repeated.
<<>>
VIII. FERTILITIES VS. SOIL AMENDMENTS
Natural fertilizers are often used not just for their nutritive
value, but to improve soil tilth. Commercial fertilizers are
generally not useful for tilth improvement. However, other soil
amendments, like gypsum or agricultural lime, affect the
availability of soil nutrients by their effect on soil pH.
IX. APPROXIMATE ANALYSES OF COMMONLY AVAILABLE NATURAL
FERTILIZERS AND SOIL AMENDMENTS.
N P K comments
A. SEED MEALS
Alfalfa meal 2.4 0.2 2.1
Coffee grounds 2 0.3 0.2 acidic; add lime;
caffeine residues may
inhibit germination
Cottonseed meal 6 2 1 cotton is a high
pesticide crop
Soybean meal 7 0.5 2.3
B. MANURES
Bat guano (fresh) 10 3 1
Bat guano (subfossil) 2 8 0
Chicken manure (dry) 4 4 2
Cow manure (dry) 2 2.3 2.4 compost or apply in fall
Horse manure 1.7 0.7 1.8
Pig manure (dry) 2 1.8 1.8 neighbors downwind will
complain
Sheep manure (dry) 4 1.4 3.5
C. ANIMAL BYPRODUCTS
Blood meal 10 0 0
Bone meal 3 12 0-0.5 1 yr P availability
Bone meal (steamed) 1 11 0
Crab meal (shrimp m., seafood m.)
4 3 0.5
Eggshell 1.2 0.4 0.1
Feather meal 11 0 0
Fish emulsion 4 1 1 5% sulfur
Fish meal 5-11 3-6 0-3 may attract cats and
other carnivores
Horn & hoof meal 12-14 2 0 1 year N availability
Worm castings 0.5 0.5 0.3
D. STEM AND LEAF PRODUCTS
Bluegrass hay 1.8 0.6 1.8
Corn stover (dry) 1.2 0.4 1.6
Corn stover (green) 0.3 0.1 0.3
Cowpeas (dry) 3.1 0.6 2.3
Cowpeas (green) 0.4 0.1 0.4
Fescue hay 2.1 0.7 2.4
Grass clippings (green)0.5 0.2 0.5
Hairy vetch 2.8 0.8 2.3
Lespedeza hay 2.4 0.8 2.3
Oak leaves 0.8 9.4 0.1
Orchard grass hay 2.3 0.7 2.8
Red Clover hay 2.8 0.6 2.3
Sweet clover hay 2.2 0.6 2.2
Timothy hay 1.8 0.7 2.8
Wheat bran 2.6 2.9 1.6
Wheat straw 0.7 0.2 1.2
White clover (green) 0.5 0.2 0.3
E. MISCELLANEOUS ORGANIC
Apple pomace 0.2 0 0.2
Compost (commercial) 1 1 1
Compost (homemade, high nutrients)
4 4 4
Compost (homemade, low nutrient)
0.5 0.5 0.5
Kelp meal 1-1.5 0-0.5 1-2.5
Milorganite (Milwaukee sewage sludge)
6 4 0
Oyster shell 0 0 0 31-36% calcium + trace
minerals
Sawdust 0.2 0 0.2 uses lots of N as it rots
Sewage sludge, Iowa, average of 40 municipalities: very wide
ranges, depending on source
2.77 1.41 0
F. MISCELLANEOUS INORGANICS
Ammonium nitrate 33 0 0 soil acidifier
Ammonium sulfate 21 0 0 strong acidifier
Aragonite 0 0 0 96% calcium carbonate
Borax 0 0 0 10% boron
Calcitic limestone 0 0 0 65-80% calcium carbonate
Colloidal phosphate 0 2 2
Dolomitic limestone 0 0 0 51% Calcium carbonate,
40% magnesium carbonate
Epsom salts 0 0 0 10% magnesium, 13% sulfur
Granite meal 0 4 0 67% silica, 19 trace
minerals
Greensand 0 1.5 6.1 32 trace minerals +
10 year release K
Gypsum 0 0 0 22% calcium, 17% sulfur
Muriate of potash: see potassium chloride
Potassium chloride 0 0 60 commonly used in
commercial fertilizers
Potassium nitrate 13 0 44 basifier (makes soil more
alkaline)
Rock phosphate 0 3 0 32% total P, 32% Ca,
11 trace minerals
Soft phosphate 0 18 0 2-3 yr P availability
Superphosphate 0 20 0 12% sulfur
Sulfur elemental or flowers of sulfur
0 0 0 99% sulfur; soil
acidifier.
Treble superphosphate 0 45 0
Urea 45 0 0 highest available N in
granular form
X. EXPERIENCES WITH VARIOUS FORMULATIONS
A. Osmocote
One midwestern botanist with a tendency to forget to fertilize
greenhouse plants has had good results with osmocote; others have
reported poor results with other crops and better management.
B. Peter's soluble general purpose
Useful for most greenhouse crops, general bedding crops. Too
high in nitrogen for good vegetable crops. Blue tracking dye is
suspected in difficulties with orchids, ferns and lower plants.
Uncolored forms available. Easy to handle. May require
supplementation with micronutrients in greenhouse soils.
C. Granular commercial fertilizers.
Generally cheap and convenient; general purpose and easy to keep
on hand. Buy by cost per pound of nutrients: 10 lbs of 15-15-15
at $1.30 is a better deal than 10 lbs of 10-10-10 at $1.00.
Broken sacks of dry granulars can often be purchased cheaply at
farm supply outlets. 5-10-5 is a typical "tomato" or "flowering
houseplant" formulation. 10-10-10 or similar near-equal number
formulation is an all-purpose balanced fertilizer.
D. "Weed and feed" lawn fertilizers
Combination herbicides and high nitrogen formulations. Consensus
of the net seems to be that these are unneeded and polluting; a
more balanced lawn fertilizer and perhaps spot applications of a
selected herbicide (or a dandelion digger!) is a better choice
for lawn, people and environment.
E. "Lawn fertilizers"
Formulations like 43-1-1 encourage leaf growth at the expense of
root growth. A more balanced fertilizer is better if clippings
are removed. If clippings are allowed to rot in place, or
returned to the lawn as compost, potassium and phosphorus are
reclaimed, so a better choice would be a fertilizer in the
vicinity of 20-5-5. High N fertilizers can be applied just a few
weeks before a special occasion requiring a deep green lawn
without harm if the lawn is basically healthy.
F. Houseplant formulations
Specialty houseplant formulations are common and expensive; a
soluble 10-10-10 or similar balanced fertilizer promotes good
growth of most plants; plants grown for their flowers may benefit
from 10-15-10 or similar formulations. 30-10-10 is a common
formulation for epiphytic orchids growing in pots. In general,
do not fertilize a newly potted plant or one that is about to
enter dormancy. Resume fertilization when new growth starts.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Fertilizer FAQ
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1993 13:51:14 GMT
klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
Besides carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, the essential minerals for
most plants are:
Chemical
Element Symbol Available form:
MACRO Nitrogen N NH4+, NO3-
Phosphorus P HPO4-, H2PO4-
Potassium K K+
SECONDARY
Sulfur S SO4--
Calcium Ca Ca++
Magnesium Mg Mg++
MICRONUTRIENTS
Iron Fe Fe++, Fe+++
Manganese Mn Mn++
Boron B H2BO3
Copper Cu Cu++
Zinc Zn Zn++
Molybdenum Mo MoO4--
Chlorine Cl Cl-
The FAQ was clearly intended for rec.gardens, and not for misc.rural,
but it might be useful to add that boron is an important element in
assuring growth of forage legumes like alfalfa and ladino clover.
One other mineral which can be important to the health of animals fed
on forage is selenium. The soils in many areas of the United States
are low in selenium; animals raised on hay or pasture from these soils
can suffer from selenium/vitamin-E defficiency (White Muscle Disease),
a chronic muscular dystrophy that ultimately affects the heart
muscles. The condition can be relieved by injections of vitamin-E and
selenium, or by diet supplements. I don't know whether selenium can
be added to deficient soils.
These comments are only a shepherd's nit-picks to a very useful FAQ.
--
Ronald Florence
ron@mlfarm.com
Article 34255 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: organic phosphorus source needed
Date: 2 Jun 1994 19:07:19 UTC
>Do I remeber it correctly that chicken manure is high in phosphorus?
Relative to other manures: [N-P-K-S-C/N ratio] (~75% moisture contents)
Cow: 0.6-0.2-0.5-0-18
Horse: 0.6-0.2-0.5-0.1-22
Pig: 0.7-0.4-0.4-0.1-14
Sheep: 1-0.3-1-0.1-16
Poultry: 1.5-1-0.5-0.2-7
Ref: Fertile Soil, Robert Parnes, 1990, ISBN:0-932857-03-5, agAccess,
Davis, CA, (916) 756-7177
Contents of the ftp directory:
file://pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/
gardening/gardening-faqs/
Update: 4-19-1995
-
Herb.afh-faq.1
Herb.afh-faq.2
Herb_Archives
Medicinal_Herb_FAQs@
Plants-by-Mail.FAQ.4-11-1995
R.G-FAQs
Roses-FAQs/
The.Mighty.LingonBerry.by-R.E.Gough
US-plant-hardiness-zones.faq.rev01
ant-faq.new
ant.faq
bean-varieties.faq
blueberry.faq
bulb-catalog.faq
cabbage.faq
carrots.faq
compost-making.faq
compost-using.faq
deer-repelling-plants.faq
faba-bean.faq
fertilizer.faq*
filelist
forcing-bulbs.faq*
fragrant-plants.faq
gardening-software.faq
hand-tools-by-mail.faq
herb-growing.faq
landscaping-for-wildlife.shrubs-vines.faq
latin-pronunciation.faq.v1993
latin.pronunciation.faq
new-faqs/
okra.faq
old-roses.faq*
peppers.faq*
pickling-cucumber.faq
plantings-for-wildlife.faq
plants-by-mail.FAQ
plants-by-mail.faq
plants-by-mail.faq.1-22-95
pond.faq
rgfaqs.list
rooting-hormone.faq*
roses.faq*
seed-catalogs.faq1*
seed-catalogs.faq2*
seedcats/
tangerine-mandarin.faq
tangerine.faq*
tangerine.faq.new
tomato-problems.faq
turnip.faq
update-info/
updates/
wait-before-spraying.faq
Roses-FAQs:
part1 part2 part3 part4 part5
new-faqs:
fertilizer.faq pond.faq tomato-problem.faq
seedcats:
updates
update-info:
faqupdate.001* seedcats
updates:
mail-order-plants poisonous-plants seedcats.faq
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:36 CDT
From: KLIER@iscsvax.uni.edu
FORCING BULBS FOR WINTER BLOOM
1st draft, 2 October 1992
"Do you think 200 paperwhites are enough? I'm giving a few
pots for Christmas presents, and I haven't got enough
refrigerator space to do that many tulips..."
--3rd year bulb-forcer, who just discovered
wholesale catalogs
A. Why force bulbs?
B. Bulbs that need no prechilling
C. How to force bulbs
1. Equipment and supplies
2. Planting the bulbs
3. Chilling period
4. "Bringing them on"
5. Aftercare
D. Species and cultivars suitable for forcing, and cultural remarks
A. Why force bulbs?
To (in)temperate zone gardeners, winter can be those 8 months before
there's something blooming outside again. About mid-January, seed
catalogs pall, and snow piles up, and the gardeners get a bit testy.
There are several ways of coping with the winter-garden blues. n
Pruning the apple orchard is productive, but a bit chilly. Revamping the
entire garden on paper, adding drystone walls, subterranean irrigation, a
new pond and small arboretum is exciting, but it's a bit expensive to
actually do the work and guilt-inducing to not do the work...
Or, with a bit of planning, you can beat the winter doldrums and have
spring flowers all winter, with modest space and equipment requirements.
Because flower buds are already formed in dormant bulbs, if you buy
bulbs from a reputable supplier, you are almost guaranteed success.
This FAQ was prepared by Kay Klier, and reflects her experiences and
prejudices.
B. Bulbs that need no prechilling
The simplest bulbs to "force" (bring into out-of-season bloom) are
species that require no prechilling. These include _Hippeastrum_
(amaryllis), _Narcissus tazetta_ (paperwhite narcissus), and _Colchicum
autumnale_ which will bloom in the fall just sitting on a shelf.
Cultural instructions are in the list below.
C. How to force bulbs
1. Equipment and supplies
Equipment needs are fairly minimal: a sunny, cool window for bringing
the bulbs to flower, pots and ordinary potting soil for growing, and a
refrigerator, coldframe, or a box stuffed with leaves-- something to
maintain the pots at about 40oF. Choice of bulbs is critical: some
species and cultivars force better than others, and larger bulbs give a
better show than smaller bulbs of the same cultivar.
2. Planting the bulbs
Some authors advocate special "bulb fiber" for forcing, or specially
shaped glasses to allow bulbs to be rooted in water. Others specify a
mixture of pebbles and charcoal, glass marbles, or similar non-absorbent
rooting media. My experience with bulb fiber is that it is good, but
expensive. The other media are prone to a number of ills, including
tipping, rot, and malodors.
However, most professional growers use a simple, well-drained, standard
potting soil in an ordinary clay or plastic pot with drain holes. This
offers a heavy enough base that top growth won't flip the pot. If
available, "bulb pans" or "azalea pans" (pots that are very squat or
sort-of-squat in comparison to the standard flower pot shape) can be
used; these require less soil and are a bit more aesthetic to some eyes.
Prepare the pot as if you were potting a house plant. New clay pots
should be soaked in plain water for 24 hours before use*. Old clay or
plastic pots should be scrubbed, disinfected and dried** before re-use.
Crock the pot (put broken overlapping pot shards into the pot) to prevent
soil running out the drain holes. Add enough soil so that the tips of
the bulbs set on this base are about 2" (5 cm) below the rim. Place the
bulbs on this base, one cultivar per pot, with the bulbs just barely
separated. Put as many bulbs in as will fit. Continue filling the pot
with soil to about 3/4" (2 cm) below the rim. Tag with cultivar and
date. Place filled pot in water and allow the soil to soak up from the
bottom; drain for 12 hours, then placed into the chilling chamber. Don't
forget to write some "check on it dates" on the calendar!
* New clay pots can "steal" water from roots as the clay
molecules rehydrate from firing.
** Scrub mineral deposits and old soil and algal crusts from
pots with a stiff-bristled brush. Soak clean pots in 10%
sodium or calcium hypochlorite solution (chlorine bleach)
diluted to 10% of commercial strength for an hour. Drain,
rinse in clean water, and air dry until no trace of chlorine
smell remains.
It is possible to use undrained containers for bulb forcing, but I do
not recommend this until you've mastered forcing at least a few species
in ordinary pots-- watering is infinitely trickier in undrained pots.
Instead choose a growing pot that will slip into the undrained display
container.
3. Chilling period
Place the pots in a cool chamber: something with a temperature that can
be maintained at 35-40oF. This can be a refrigerator (beware, though,
ethylene gas from ripening fruit, esp. apples, can cause flowers to
abort), a cold basement or root cellar, a cold frame, or an outdoor
trench filled with insulating but non-freezing materials such as straw
over a gravel base. A cardboard box stuffed with straw and placed on
insulating materials like a couple of inches of styrofoam will provide
adequate temperature control in an unheated garage in USDA zones 4 or 5.
You will want to be able to check on the pots about once a month.
Arrange the pots in the chilling chamber, and remember to give them a
drink every month or so.
Actual length of the chilling period will depend on planting date and
cultivar. In general, pots are ready to be brought on (grown) when the
root system is well developed (go ahead, turn out a pot and peek!) and
the new shoots are an inch or so high.
4. "Bringing them on"
Abnormally high temperatures (for spring bulbs) will lead to loose,
floppy growth, and perhaps flower abortion (esp in Iris). 50-55oF is an
good growing temperature for most hardy spring bulbs, often obtainable in
a bright windowsill, or in a basement under fluorescent light. Put new
pots in half-bright light for a couple of days until the shoots green up,
then move to a strongly lit cool area to keep growth compact. In
general, do not fertilize (if you must, no N-- it makes floppy leaves!).
You may also need to do a certain amount of discreet staking: I use
chopsticks and a variety of shades of green embroidery floss.
5. Aftercare
After bloom has finished, the hardy bulbs are badly exhausted. If you
feel morally obliged to save the bulbs, move the pot back to a cool, very
bright area and water with a balanced fertilizer solution. As soon as
possible, remove the soil and bulb mass and transplant to a discreet
location in the service garden where the foliage can be allowed to die
off naturally. Transplant to a better location in fall, but do not
expect good bloom for 2-3 years.
D. Species and cultivars suitable for forcing
Species marked as "Green thumb" require some experimentation and at least
a coldframe or cool greenhouse; other species are suitable for growing
entirely in the house.
A rough pronunciation is given after the genus name; these are
"American Botanical Latin", based on Church Latin. European botanists
and gardeners tend to use Classical Latin pronunciation, with some
slightly different vowel and consonant sounds. For instance, Americans
would pronounce "Julius Caesar" as JEW-lee-us SIEZE-er; Classical Latin
would be approximately YOU-lee-us KI-sar.
=========================================================
BABIANA [Baboon root] rating: Green thumb [bah-bee-ANN-nah]
Sunny; Growing temp: 40-50oF
6-10" tall with dark green, pubescent foliage and blue, violet, red or
white flowers. 5 bulbs per 4.5" pot, 2.5-3.5" deep, sandy soil mix,
strong sun.
B. disticha: blue [DIS-tick-ah]
B. plicata: violet and blue [pleh-CAH-tah]
B. ringens: scarlet [RIN-jens]
B. stricta: white with lilac [STRICT-tah]
________________________
COLCHICUM rating: Brown thumb [COAL-chee-come or COAL-key-come]
Any light, including none; temps above freezing
Technically, a corm. Will bloom sitting on a bookshelf, producing 8-
20 "giant crocus" flowers. Plant outdoors in sunny, well-drained soil,
2" deep. Leaves produced spring and summer. Hardy to southern Canada.
C. autumnale var. album: white single [aw-tum-NAH-leh]
C. autumnale var. minor: rose-lilac, star-shaped, shorter
than C. autumnale.
C. autumnale: pink-lavender single
C. byzantinum rose-lilac single [biz-zan-TEEN-num]
---Hybrids and cultivars---
Autumn Queen (+ Princess Astrid): purple checkered over white
Lilac Wonder: late-flowering lilac
The Giant: late-flowering lilac-mauve with white base
Waterlily: double lavender
________________________
CONVALLARIA MAJUS [Lily of the Valley] rating: Green thumb
[con-val-AIR-ee-ah MAY-jus]
Shaded window; Growing temp 55-65oF
You can buy Lily of the Valley pips prepared for forcing, and even
arrange for them to be shipped to you throughout the winter. The
prepared pips are easy to grow, and will flower 3 weeks after planting.
Maintain a 60-65oF temperature at first, rising to 70oF and full light.
It is also possible to grow Lily of the Valley from your own plants:
This is much less certain, but fun to try. Treat your Lily of the Valley
well the previous growing system, applying a balanced fertilizer several
times in the growing season. Before hard frost, select a healthy clump
and put it in a dark cool place, watering once a week. About 1 February,
bring into light. As the flowering stalks appear, you can separate out
the flowering pips from those that are too small to bloom, and put the
flowering pips in a container of pebbles and water. Or just let the
clump bloom. In the spring, you can set the clump back in the bed for
bloom some other year.
________________________
CROCUS rating: Easy [CROW-cuss]
Sunny window; Growing temp: 45-55oF
Both fall and spring blooming species are available. Fall crocus (Crocus
sativus, C. speciosus, C. byzantinus) is potted upon receipt in August or
September. Pots will bloom almost immediately in an east-facing window.
Remove from the pot after flowering and set out in the garden.
Spring flowering crocus includes both species and hybrid crocus. For
reasons I do not understand, I've never had luck forcing yellow crocus,
though the lavender and white cultivars flower easily.
Plant several corms just below the surface of the soil in a 4" pot; hold
in the cold until shoots reach about 1.5" (3-4 cm); bring into a dim 50oF
room, then to a sunny 55oF window. Higher temperatures can prevent
flowering.
Children may enjoy "crocus balls"; crocus corms are embedded in
sphagnum moss, shaped into a ball, and enclosed in coarse netting or a
network of string. The sphagnum ball is moistened, then chilled.
Following the pre-chill period, the ball is suspended on a string until
bloom. Water by dipping in a bucket, being sure to place a pan on the
floor after to catch the drips!
________________________
ERANTHUS HIEMALIS (winter aconite) rating: Experienced [air-AN-thus
hi-em-MAY-lis]
Shaded window; Growing temp 45-55oF
Eranthus hiemalis, winter aconite, forces about 70% of the time for me; I
plant the tubers just below the soil surface, and treat as for tulips.
They will flower in late January if brought in to a sunny cool window in
late December.
________________________
ERYTHRONIUM (trout lily; dogtooth violet) rating: Experienced
[air-reh-THRONE-knee-um]
Shaded window; Growing temp 45-55oF
Most species and hybrids are handled just as for Eranthus; but planted 3"
deep, several per pot.
________________________
GALANTHUS (snowdrop) rating: Experienced [ga-LAN-thus]
Sunny window; Growing temp 40-50oF
Galanthus nivalis [niv-VAL-us] has smaller flowers than G. elwesii [el-
WES-ee-eye], but both are small charmers with green markings on the
perianth that look a bit like rabbits. Plant several to a pot, and
force slowly as for tulips. These prefer sun and 45-50o temperatures.
Blossoms open in warmth, close in cooler temperatures.
This genus will survive and grow if planted in the garden.
________________________
HIPPEASTRUM [Amaryllis] rating: Easy [hippie-AST-rum]
Shaded window before flowering, sunny after; Growing temp 65-75oF
Standard size: 20-25", blooms 8-10 weeks after planting, 3-4 flowers 5-6"
across, per stem. Usually 2 stems per bulb. Plant in potting soil in 4
or 5" clay pots, or several in a larger pot (1/2" between bulbs); 1/3 of
bulb above soil. Houseplant fertilizer (10-10-10 or 10-20-20) once
monthly from planting to Sept 1. Withhold water gradually, no water from
1 Oct to early or mid-December. Remove yellowed foliage. Temps: 60-70
oF. Sun. Some cvs. will bloom at Christmas if planted mid-Nov. These
are marked with an asterisk. Colors in parentheses are the overall
impression of flower color from 10 ft.
SINGLE STANDARD HIPPEASTRUM
Apple blossom: pink stripes over white (light pink)
Cantate: fuchsia
* Carnival: red with white edge
Christmas Gift: white
* Cocktail: red with white star
Dazzler: white
* Desert Dawn: salmon
Donau: rosy-red
Liberty: red
Masai: white with a few scarlet stripes (peppermint stripe)
* Milady: pink
Minerva: scarlet with white central star; green throat
Orange Sovereign: orange
Oscar: blue-red
Picotee: white with red margin
Rilona: peach
* Safari: red
* Springtime: light pink
Star of Holland: red with white star
Susan: pink
Valentine: med. pink with white central star
Vlammenspel: scarlet with white central star
* Wedding Dance: white
DOUBLE STANDARD HIPPEASTRUM
Double Picotee: white with red edge, also red blush on petals
Lady Jane: dark coral with a small amount of white striping
Pasadena: red with white star
"MINIATURE AMARYLLIS"
Culture as for standard size Hippeastrum. 15-20" tall, usually 4
flowers per umbel, 2-3 umbels per bulb. Nicest grown in groups of 3-5
bulbs.
Charm: orange with yellow-green throat
Germa: yellow
Pamela: red
Scarlet Baby =(+ Gracilis Dulcinea): scarlet
Spotty: terra-cotta red with narrow white stripes (light terra-cotta))
________________________
HYACINTHUS [hyacinth] rating: Easy [hi-ah-SIN-thus]
Shaded window while in flower: sunny after; Growing temp 60oF; FRAGRANT
You can purchase hyacinths in a number of forms. The quickest to bloom
will be "prepared" bulbs of Dutch Hyacinths-- L'Innocence will be in
bloom by Christmas if planted by early October. These will bloom about
2-3 weeks before "unprepared" bulbs.
If planting bulbs in soil, figure 3 bulbs per 6" pot of the largest size
bulbs, 4-6 medium bulbs for a 6" pot. Plant with about 3/4" (1.5 cm)
exposed bulb tip. Allow 8-10 weeks of chilling; a bit of leaf and a
small tip of flowerbud should be visible before they are removed from the
cold. Gradually bring into a 60oF dimly-lit room for growing. When
flower stalks are about 4", bring them into full sunlight, but avoid
temperatures over about 65oF. Allow 12-16 weeks start to finish.
Dutch hyacinths can also be grown in special "hyacinth glasses" in water,
and treated much like the soil-grown plants. I have not had as much
success with this as with soil culture.
Some cultivars suitable for forcing: (Dutch hyacinths that can take
water culture are marked with an asterisk*)
Ann Marie: single pink; early
Bismark; large single sky blue; midseason
City of Harlem: soft yellow; late
* Grand Maitre: single lavender; midseason
Jan Bos: single red; early
* King of Blues: single dark blue; late
King of Lilacs: light mauve; late
* L'Innocence: white single; early if prepared; midseason unprepared
* La Victoire: deep red; midseason
* Lady Derby: light salmon pink; midseason
* Myosotis: single light blue; midseason
Ostara: single blue-violet; very early
* Pink Pearl: pink single; early
Queen of Blues: mid blue; late
Queen of Pinks: largest of pinks, late
Queen of Whites: late
Rosalie: small, bright pink; very early
Yellow Hammer: single soft yellow, midseason
French-Roman Hyacinths are offered only in color strains of white, pink
or blue. These plants should be rooted at 55-60oF, and produce short
flower stalks. For continuous bloom from January on, plant every 2-3
weeks.
________________________
IRIS rating: Experienced [EYE-riss]
Sunny window; Growing temp: 50-55oF
Never allow iris to dry out or the temperature to rise above 55oF, or you
will never have flowers. If you can provide these conditions, however,
you can easily grow the Dutch Iris cultivars Wedgewood, White Excelsior
or Yellow Queen or the tiny Iris reticulata (reh-tick-you-LAH-tah].
These are grown in a sunny window, not prechilled. Feed every two weeks
with a balanced fertilizer and salvage for the garden.
________________________
MUSCARI rating: Experienced [muss-CARE-ee]
Sunny window; Growing temp: 60oF
Two of the best for forcing are 'Early Giant', a large blue,, and
Muscari botroides var. album [bot-ree-OY-dees ALB-bum]. Plant several in
a 6" pot, just under the soil surface, and root in the cold until the pot
is full of roots. Gradually bring into a sunny window of 55-65oF.
This species will continue to grow and increase if planted outdoors
after flowering.
________________________
NARCISSUS rating: Easy [nar-SIS-us]
Sunny window; Growing temp: 55-65oF
Force most "non-paperwhites" as you would tulips, choosing varieties
noted in the catalog marked as suitable for forcing. There are so many
cultivars, I can't begin to list them, but some are:
Early:
Cragford: white with orange corona; fragrant
Forerunner: yellow trumpet
Magnificence: golden yellow trumpet
Rembrandt: large yellow
Midseason:
Allard Pierson: yellow corona, white perianth
Cheerfulness; double-white; fragrant
Early Beauty: yellow corona, white perianth
Early Perfection: yellow corona, white perianth
Fortune: lemon yellow with orange corona
Geranium: white with red corona
Golden Harvest: golden yellow
Helios: perianth yellow, corona orange
Innocence: white with yellow corona
John Evelyn: white, frilled corona with orange edge
King Alfred: giant yellow
La Fiancee: perianth white, corona light orange
Laurens Koster: white, red eye; fragrant
Mount Hood: creamy white
Music Hall: creamy white with yellow corona
Scarlet Elegance: yellow with scarlet-bordered corona
Von Sion: double yellow
Miniature cyclamen species suitable for forcing include N. bulbocodium,
the hoop-petticoat narcissus, N. cyclamineus ('February Gold', 'February
Silver', 'Beryl' and 'Peeping Tom') and N. triandrus ('Thalia' and
'Moonshine').
________________________
PAPERWHITE NARCISSUS rating: Novice
Sunny window; Growing temp 55-65oF
Several umbels of strongly-scented flowers are produced 3-5 weeks after
planting. Soil or pebbles or bulb fiber. Room temperature, no
prechilling. Sweet odor may be cloying in a small room. No fertilizer.
Toss after flowering. If bulbs are not planted immediately, store cool
and dry, but does not require refrigeration for storage. (45o-50oF
ideal)
Erlicheer: cream double
Galilee: large, pure white flowers; improved version of old
paperwhites.
Omri: white flowers with yellow trumpets
Soleil d'Or: old favorite yellow; orange trumpet
Ziva: white
________________________
PUSCHKINIA SCILLOIDES rating: Experienced
[push-KIN-ih-ah skil-LOY-dees] (yep, named for the Russian
poet Pushkin)
Culture as for Muscari.
________________________
SCILLA rating: Easy [SKILL-ah] or [SILL-ah]
Sunny window; Growing temp: 55-65oF
Culture as for Muscari. Scilla siberica and S. campanulata (=S.
hispanica) are both easy species.
________________________
TULIPA [tulip] rating: novice to experienced [too-LEAP-ah]
Sunny window; Growing temp 55-65oF
Tulips are classified according to blooming season, doubleness, and
species -- most of our garden tulips are of hybrid origin. The garden
tulips in the list below are slightly more difficult than paperwhites,
but not much... Plant several bulbs per pot in soil, bulbs not quite
touching. (usually 6-7 bulbs in a 6" pot, 8-9 in a 7", 9-12 bulbs in an
8" pan) Conventionally, the flat side of the bulb is oriented toward the
outside of the pot: the first leaf will appear on this side. Store at
35-50 oF for 12 weeks; you may need to water if the pots dry out in this
period. Bring indoors when top growth has reached about 2", gradually
bringing them into full sun and 55-65 oF growing temperature. Taller
cultivars may require staking.
After bloom, toss the bulbs. If you must try to grow them next year,
fertilize with houseplant fertilizer, and keep in as cool and sunny a
spot as you have until you can transplant (in clumps) to a pre-dug trench
in the garden. Be prepared for very disappointing flowering for the next
2-3 years. Cultivars marked "late" in the list below may require longer
prechilling, and will bloom about March.
As you gain more experience, you can branch out into other
classifications of tulips. Some experiments will be rewarding, others,
well -- live and learn!
---Singles---
(mostly easy to force; # marks
cultivars used for commercial forcing:
details available in Ball Red Book.
Dates in parentheses denote year of origin.
# Albury: red; late
All Bright: deep red with white base and ring of pure blue
Ambassador: red
Anna Jose: pink with white edge, 16-18"; late
# Apricot Beauty: apricot, late
# Attila: dark lavender; 18-20"; late
Attraction: orange scarlet; early
# Atom: red; late
# Bellona: yellow, 15"; fragrant (outstanding yellow!); early
Bestseller: coppery-apricot pink; fragrant, 16-20"; late
# Bing Crosby: red
# Blenda: rose
# Blizzard: white; late
Boccherini: lilac blue, 20"; late
Brilliant Star: scarlet, 12"
Broadway: red with white edging: 16-18"; late
# Carl M. Bellman: bicolor, late
# Cassini: red
# Charles: red
Cheerleader: red; 16-20; late
# Christmas Gold: yellow
# Christmas Marvel: cherry pink, 12
# Comet: bicolor: bicolor
Cordell Hull: white, splashed deep cherry red (Rembrandt)
# Couleur Cardinal: dark red, 12", fragrant (1845); late
Crater: dark red
# Danton: red
Demeter: violet; early
# Denbola: bicolor; late
# Diplomate: red; late
Don Quichotte: medium fuchsia; 16-18; late
Douglas Bader: pale pink; 16-18"; late
Dreaming Maid: rosy violet, white edge; 16-18"; late
Duc de Berlin: red, edged yellow; early
Duc van Tol Scarlet: scarlet; early
Duc van Tol White: white, early
Early Queen: deep rose; early
Easter Fire: red, late, 14-16"
# Edith Eddy: bicolor; late
Elmus: cherry red, edged pure white
Ganders Rhapsody: pink shaded to red edge; 16-18"
General de Wet: orange, 13"; fragrant (outstanding); early
# Golden Eddy: bicolor; late
Golden Glory: yellow, early
Golden Harvest: deep lemon
Golden Melody: soft yellow, 20", late
Ibis: dark rose, 13"
# Hibernia: white
# Invasion: bicolor
Jo-Ann: soft pink, 20"; late
# Karel Doorman: bicolor
# Kareol: yellow
# Kees Nelis: bicolor
Keizerskroon: dark rose, edged yellow, 15"; fragrant (1750)
King of the Yellows; yellow; early
Leen van der Mark: bright red with white edge; late; 22"
# Madame Spoor: bicolor
# Makassar: yellow; late
# Merry Widow: bicolor: red with white margin
# Mirjoran: bicolor
# Monte Carlo: yellow
Mon Tresor: yellow, 12"; early
Negrita: deep purple; 18-20"; late
New Design: pale yellow, white midpetals, pink edges; 16-20"; late
Niphetos: soft lemon; late
# Olaf: red
Olga: violet red, edged white; early.
# Orange Sun: orange, late
Orange Wonder: orange, fragrant, 18", late
# Ornament: deep yellow; late
Page Polka: white with broad pink border; 18"; late
# Palestrina: rose; late
# Paris: bicolor; late
# Paul Richter: scarlet; mid season
# Pax: white
# Peerless Pink: pink, large flowers, 20"; late
Praestens Fusilier: bunch flowering scarlet; February, grow 55-60oF
# Preludium: rose
Prince Carnival: red/yellow, 15"
# Prince Charles: lavender
# Princess Irene: orange, fragrant, late; 10-12"
Prince of Austria: scarlet, 15"
# Prominance: red
Proserpine: deep rose; early
Queen of Bartigons: salmon pink with yellow stamens
# Red Giant: red; late
# Robinea: red; late
# Stockholm: red
Tambour Maitre: red, slight fragrance, 18"; late
# Thule: bicolor
# Topscore: red
# Trance: red
Van Der Neer: plum, 12"; fragrant (1860)
Vermilion Brilliant: scarlet
Victor H. Ries: purple, 16-20"; late
# Virtuoso: rose; late
White Dream: pure white, 16-18"; late
White Dream: white, 20"; late
White Hawk: white, 12"
Yellow Present: pale yellow, 16-18"; late
--Early Doubles
Dante: red
Mr van Der Hoef: pure yellow
Peach Blossom: rosy pink
Scarlet Cardinal; scarlet double; early
Willemsoord: bright carmine, edged white
________________________
VELTHEIMIA rating: Green thumb [velt-HI-me-ah]
Growing temp 50-55oF
Culture as for Hippeastrum; plant in a pot just an inch or so larger
than the bulb in November or December. Feed with a balanced fertilizer
every couple of weeks until growth starts. A tall stalk with 20-30 long
lasting, pinkish flowers will appear. When flowers fade, rest the plant
dry in the pot until August or September.
________________________
--Kay Klier
From saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Sat Sep 17 12:15:04 EDT 1994
Article: 43662 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet
From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fragrant Plants - long list
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 13:57:13 PDT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
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X-Newsreader: NEWTNews & Chameleon -- TCP/IP for MS Windows from NetManage
> From: @ils.nwu.edu (Sandra Burke)
> Newsgroups: rec.gardens
> Subject: Fragrant Plants - Help
> Date: Fri, 09 Sep 1994 11:11:54 -0600
> I am looking to planting shrubs etc in my garden and am interested in
> planting shrubs etc that have fragrant foliage or flowers. So far I have
> planted honeysuckles, Miss Kim Lilac and MockOrange. Do any of you have
> any other suggestions? I hear that certain viburnums are fragrant i.e.
> Carlesi and Woodwordi (not sure of spelling). How fragrant are they and
do
> they make good hedges. Any info on fragrant plants would be much
> appreciated.
Sandra -
Not real detailed, but I thought you (and others) might find this list of
fragrant plant to be useful (certainly not very complete, but it is what I
have handy from my plant database):
? L UNN
Abelia triflora
Agastache foeniculum ANISE HYSSOP
Allium neopolitanum grandiflorum
Amaryllis belladonna NAKED LADY
Aquilegia viridiflora
Bouvardia longiflora `Albatross'
Brugmansia candida ANGEL'S TRUMPET
Brugmansia sanguinea
Buddleia alternifolia FOUNTAIN BUTTERFLY BUSH
Buddleia asiatica WINTER FLOWERING LILAC
Cercidiphyllum japonicum JAPANESE KATSURA TREE
Cestrum diurnum DAY JESSAMINE
Cestrum nocturnum NIGHT BLOOMING JESSAMINE
Cestrum parqui WILLOW LEAVED JESSAMINE
Chrysanthemum balsamita COSTMARY
Clematis montana alba
Clematis montana rubens
Clematis recta
Clerodendrum bungei
Clethra alnifolia SUMMERSWEET
Convallaria majalis LILY OF THE VALLEY
Crinum asiaticum POISON BULB
Cyrtanthus mackenii
Daphne xburkwoodii `Somerset'
Daphne genkwa
Daphne odora
Daphne odora `Rubra'
Dennstaedtia punctilobula HAY SCENTED FERN
Dianthus superbus
Dolichos lignosus
Echinacea purpurea `White Swan'
Endymion non-scriptus ENGLISH BLUEBELLS
Eucalyptus citriodora LEMON SCENTED GUM
Eucharis grandiflora AMAZON LILY
Eucryphia xnymansensis `Nymansay'
Ferraria undulata
Freesia (tecolote) `Talisman'
Gladiolus tristis
Hemerocallis `Happy Returns'
Hemerocallis dumortieri
Hermannia verticillata HONEY BELLS
Hermodactylus tuberosa WIDOW IRIS, SNAKES HEAD IRIS
Hosta `Royal Standard'
Hosta plantaginea
Hyacinthus azureus albus
Iris aucheri JUNO GROUP
Iris bucharica
Iris hoogiana REGELIA IRIS
Iris reticulata `J. S. Dyt'
Jasminum xstephanense J. BEESIANUM x OFFICINALE
Jasminum beesianum ROSE JASMINE
Jasminum polyanthum PINK JASMINE, FRENCH PERFUME
Knautia arvensis FIELD SCABIOUS
Lachenalia glaucina
Lathyrus nervosus LORD ANSON'S BLUE PEA
Lilium candidum MADONNA LILY
Lonicera japonica `Aureo-Reticulata'
Lonicera periclymenum `Serotina'
Lonicera sempervirens sulphura
Lonicera syringantha `Grandiflora'
Mentha requienii CORSICAN MINT
Michelia doltsopa
Michelia figo BANANA SHRUB
Muscari armeniacum `Cantab'
Myrtus communis variegata
Narcissus xodorus
Narcissus gracilis
Narcissus tazetta lacticolor
Osmanthus delavayi
Osmanthus fragrans aurantiacus
Pancratium maritimum SEA DAFFODIL
Pelargonium capitatum ATTAR OF ROSES SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium crispum LEMON SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium fragrans NUTMEG SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium graveolens ROSE SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium grossularioides COCONUT SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium nervosum LIME SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium odoratissimum APPLE SCENTED GERANIUM
Pelargonium tomentosum PEPPERMINT SCENTED GERANIUM
Philadelphus xpurpureo-maculatus `Belle Etoile'
Philadelphus coronarius `Aureus'
Philadelphus karvinskyanus EVERGREEN MOCKORANGE
Philadelphus lewisii califorincus `Goose Creek'
Philadelphus mexicanus flora pleNA
Primula auricula AURICULA, BEAR'S EAR
Prostanthera mellisifolia
Rosa xdupontii ROSA MOSCHATA x GALLICA
Rosa farreri persetosa
Rosa foetida
Rosa foliolosa
Salvia clevelandii CLEVELAND'S SAGE
Salvia repens repens
Schizopetalon walkeri
Stewartia pseudocamellia JAPANESE STEWARTIA
Stewartia sinensis
Syringa microphylla `Superba'
Tagetes lemmonii BUSH MARIGOLD
Tagetes lucida MEXICAN TARRAGON
Teucrium marum CAT GERMANDER
Trachelospermum majus
Tulipa celsiana
Tulipa saxatilis
Tulipa sylvestris
Viburnum carlesii `Aurora'
Viola alba `Lady Hume Campbell' PARMA VIOLET
Wisteria floribunda alba
Wisteria sinensis `Caroline'
Sean A. O'Hara, 710 Jean St., Oakland, Ca. 94610-1459
saouc@uccmvsa.ucop.edu or sean.ohara@ucop.edu
From london@calypso-2.oit.unc.eduThu Feb 22 13:06:48 1996
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 13:50:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Lawrence F. London, Jr."
Subject: Good tools available by mail-order.
-
This is the Februrary, 1996 update of:
ftp://sunsite.unc.edu/pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/
gardening/gardening-faqs/gardening-hand-tools.faq
maintained by london@sunSITE.unc.edu
http://sunSITE.unc.edu/london
-
==============================
Agricultural Hand Tool Sources
==============================
Smith & Hawken and A.M. Leonard sell a scythe with a straight snath
(lightweight, strong & easy to use) and a grass & grain blade that is
thin, long and can easily be sharpened razor-sharp. This tool is perfect
for cutting lawns. It _can_ remove weeds/grass right down to the sod.
It's fairly easy to maintain the proper stance and swinging motion
to cut your grass to a consistant height and in regular arcs that blend
together evenly.
A wonderful tool, indespensible for the rural dweller and suburban
gardener alike.
-
Request a catalog from:
Johnny's Selected Seeds
Foss Hill Road
Albion, Maine, 04910
Customer service: 1-207-437-4301
They supply EARTHWAY and PLANET, Jr. seeders and will, on request
give you information on suppliers of other seeders (i.e. a small hand-carried
corn/bean seeder. You may want to hybridyze the EW and the P, Jr.
when planting small seeds in rough terrain. An organic vegetable grower
North Carolina has successfully done this.
From: George Stone
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Johnny's Web Page id finished
I have finished the initial work to get this page to a presentable form.
You may browse all our new products for 1996 with selected pictures as
well as request a commercial or home garden catalog on-line. Happy
holidays from all of us at Johnnys.
http://johnnyseeds.com/seeds
From: jsseeds@aol.com (Jsseeds)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Johnny's Selected Seeds New Address
Date: 4 Sep 1995 19:46:46 -0400
Johnny's now has a new internet E-Mail address. This address can be used
to request a catalog or to be added to their mailing list. The address is:
johnnys@mint.net.
-
>Whole Earth "Ecolog" mentioned five tool suppliers for farm and garden
>supplies; my hunch would be try Lehman's Hardware and Appliances,
>their catalog is $2.00 from PO Box 41, 4779 Kidron Rd., Kidron OH 44636;
>or Cumberland's, catalog $3.00 from rt. 3 box 81, Crossville TN 38555, and
>they have a telephone: 615-484-8481.
-
A.M. Leonard
241 Fox Drive
P.O. Box 816
Piqua, Ohio, 45356
1-800-543-8955
1-800-433-0633 fax
Mostly tree maintenance and nursery equipment,
plus miscellaneous excellent gardening/landscaping tools/supplies
eye hoes, scythes
-
Mellingers
Ohio
similar to Leonard
-
Forestry Suppliers, Inc.
P.O. Box 8397
205 West Rankin St.
Jackson, Mississippi, 39204
"Quality Forestry, Engineering and
Environmental Equipment, Shipped Worldwide"
tools, equipment and supplies for the forestry industry
-
Langenbach
"A Collection of the World's Finest Hand Tools"
P.O. Box 453
Blairstown, N.J., 07825
Toll Free: 1-800-362-1991
English-made high quality spades, spade forks, forks and much else
Excellent!
-
Smith and Hawken
"Tools of the Trade - A Complete Source For the Organic Gardener"
Orders:
2 Arbor Lane, Box 6900
Florence, Kentucky, 41022-6900
1-800-776-3336
General info:
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, California, 94941
1-415-383-2000
Also excellent! you may need to ask them what tools they
have for sale that are not listed in their catalogue,
held-over stock offered in out-of-date ones -
i.e. the 4"X7" Japanese field hoe (grub-type eye hoe using 1 3/4" X 54"
handle) they used to offer, an indispensible tool!
They now offer English Bulldog brand eye hoes; also a complete line of
digging forks, digging spades, spade forks, border forks and border spades
and straight snath scythe systems.
-
Ben Meadows Company
Equipment for Natural Resource Managers
3589 Broad Street
Atlanta, Georgia, 30341
1-800-241-6401
Fax: 1-800-628-2068
Mail Order address:
P.O. Box 80549
Chamblee, Georgia, 30366
e-mail: mail@benmeadows.com
http://www.benmeadows.com (great Web page!)
See pages 132-139 for garden handtools information;
see esp. page 134: Adze Hoe & Pic'N Planter tools
-
The Cook's Garden
"Seeds and Supplies for the New American Kitchen Garden"
P.O. Box 535
Londonderry, Vermont, 05148
802-824-3400
Fax: 802-824-3027
Offers the Korean "HO-MI" hand cultivator (curved trowel/cultivator),
well-designed and effective
-
Necessary Trading Co.
One Nature's Way
New Castle, Virginia, 24127-0305
FAX - 703/864-5186
Phone: 1-703-864-5103
"Natural Solutions for Farm, Home and Garden"
Wide range of supplies, books, fertilizers, tools and equipment -
catalogue headings include: books, composting equipment & supplies,
soil testing equipment & supplies, cover crop seeds, fertilizers
(their largest offering), pest management supplies and equipment,
wild bird supplies, animal care supplies and miscellaneous hand tools.
A major supplier, along with Zook & Ranck and Fertrell, for organic
farmers and market growers in the Eastern U.S.
-
HARMONY FARM SUPPLY [CAT - $2 deduct. from]
P.O. Box 451 [first order]
Graton, CA 95444
PEACEFUL VALLEY FARM SUPPLY [CAT - $2 deduct. from]
P.O. Box 2209 [first order]
Grass Valley, CA 95945
-
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
Shipping Office
30 Irene St.
Torrington, Connecticut, 06790
860-482-3638
-
You might also call the folks at ATTRA (Appropriate Technology for Rural
Areas) at 1-800-346-9140. They might have some other names & addresses for you.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following list was found in an article posted to the rec.gardens newsgroup:
-
Gardening Hand Tool Mail Order Sources
======================================
1. P.A. Bonvallet's Sons Inc.
R.R. 1 Box 160
St. Anne, IL 60964 Catalog: Free
815-427-8222
Offerings: pots, containers, soil conditioners, fertilizers
Comments: wholesale distributor
-----------------------------------------------------------------
2. W. Atlee Burpee & Co.
300 Park Ave.
Warminster, PA 18991-0001 Catalog: Free
Offerings: seeds, perennials, bulbs, woody plants, supplies
Comments: separate seasonal catalogs are available
-----------------------------------------------------------------
3. Dayton Bag and Burlap
210 Dowdle St., Unit 5
Algonquin, IL 60102 Catalog: Free
708-658-8488 Fax: 708-658-4197
Offerings: nursery supplies
Comments: wholesale distributor
-----------------------------------------------------------------
4. The Dramm Company
P.O. Box 528
Manitowoc, WI 54220 Catalog: Free
Offerings: watering tools
-----------------------------------------------------------------
5. Earl May Seed Company
208 North Elm Street
Shanandoah, IA 51603-0099 Catalog: Free
712-246-1020
Offerings: woody plants, seeds, perennials, growing
supplies
-----------------------------------------------------------------
6. Garden's Alive
Hyw. 48, P.O. Box 149
Sunman, IN 47041 Catalog: Free
812-623-3800
Offerings: tools, equipment, IPM supplies, beneficial
insects
-----------------------------------------------------------------
7. Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington, VT 05401 Catalog: Free
802-863-1700
Offerings: tools, equipment, IPM supplies
-----------------------------------------------------------------
8. Gempler's
P.O. Box 270, 211 Blue Mound Rd.
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 Catalog: Free
800-328-8473 Fax: 800-551-1128
Offerings: agricultural supplies, protective equipment
-----------------------------------------------------------------
9. Grower's Supply Company
P.O. Box 1123
Ann Arbor, MI 48106 Catalog: Free
313-662-6058
Offerings: indoor stands, lights and trays
-----------------------------------------------------------------
10. Henry Field's Heritage Gardens
1 Meadow Ridge Rd.
Shenandoah, IA 51601-0700 Catalog: Free
605-665-5188
Offerings: woody plants, perennials, tools, supplies
-----------------------------------------------------------------
11. Innis Violets
8 Maddison Lane
Lynnfield, MA 01904 Catalog: $1
617-334-6679
Offerings: African violet growing supplies, high dome
terrariums
-----------------------------------------------------------------
12. J. W. Jung Seed Co.
335 S. High Street
Rondolf, WI 53956 Catalog: Free
Offerings: seeds, woody plants, perennials, tools, supplies
-----------------------------------------------------------------
13. Kinsman Company, Inc.
River Road
Point Pleasant, PA 18950 Catalog: Free
215-297-5613
Offerings: gardening tools and equipment
-----------------------------------------------------------------
14. A. M. Leonard, Inc.
6665 Spiker Road, P.O. Box 816
Piqua, OH 45356-0816 Catalog: Free
513-773-2694 Fax: 513-773-8640
Offerings: tools, supplies
Comments: offers a range of professional tools and
equipment for horticulturists
-----------------------------------------------------------------
15. Mellinger's
2310 W. South Range Road
North Lima, OH 44452-9731 Catalog: Free
216-549-9861
Offerings: seeds, woody plants, perennials, tropical
plants, tools, growing supplies
-----------------------------------------------------------------
16. Midwest Trading
P.O. Box 384
St. Charles, IL 60174 Catalog: Free
708-742-1840 Fax: 708-888-3818
Offerings: horticultural supplies, equipment, tools, and
structures.
Comments: wholesale catalog
-----------------------------------------------------------------
17. Walt Nick Company
36 McCleod Lane, P.O. Box 433
Topsfield, MA 01983 Catalog: Free
508-887-3388
Offerings: gardening tools and equipment
-----------------------------------------------------------------
18. Park Seed Company
Cokesbury Road
Greennwood, SC 29647-0001 Catalog: Free
Offerings: seeds, bulbs, perennials, growing supplies
Comments: separate seasonal catalogs offered
-----------------------------------------------------------------
19. Ringer
9959 Valley View Road
Eden Prairie, MN 55344-3585 Catalog: Free
800-654-1047 Fax: 612-941-5036
Offerings: tools, equipment, growing supplies, IPM supplies
Comments: offers a range of organic lawn and garden
products
-----------------------------------------------------------------
20. Smith And Hawkins
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, CA 94941 Catalog: Free
414-383-2000
Offerings: tools, gardening supplies, furniture
-----------------------------------------------------------------
21. Wayside Gardens
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001 Catalog: $1
800-845-1124
Offerings: perennials, woody plants, growing supplies
Comments: illustrated catalog
-----------------------------------------------------------------
22. Wingert Pottery
1185 Atlantic Dr.
West Chicago, IL 60185 Catalog: Free
708-293-9097 Fax: 708-293-9114
Offerings: clay pots, garden ornaments
Comments: an extensive selection of clay pots, wholesale
and retail, a division of Ceramo Company, Inc.
:
Lawrence F. London, Jr., Venaura Farm, Chapel Hill, NC USA
london@sunSITE.unc.edu, london@mercury.interpath.net
http://sunSITE.unc.edu/london/The_Sustainable_Farmstead.html
http://www.interpath.net/~london
Organic Gardening & Permaculture Information
:
-
Title: Gardening Software FAQ
Filename: gardening-software.faq
Archive site: sunSITE.unc.edu
FTP Path: pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/gardening
/gardening-faqs/gardening-software.faq
[get GUIDE for more information on archives]
Last Update: Feb. 10, 1995
Faq Maintainer: Lawrence London, london@sunSITE.unc.edu
-
Shareware and Commercial Software For Landscape Design,
Garden Planning, Nursery and General Horticultural Use
=======================================================
(List 1)
The following list with comments was supplied by Fred Christiansen:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
# NAME MY EXPERIENCE
$ 13 Expert Home Design by SoftSync Limited functionality
$ 13 Expert Landscape by SoftSync
$ 25 FloorPlan by ComputerEasy
$ 30 ProShape for Windows (shareware) Decent draw program
$ 37 Home: Bathroom by Generic
$ 37 Home: Home by Generic
$ 37 Home: Kitchen by Generic
$ 37 Home: Landscapes by Generic
$ 39 KeyCAD by Softkey Used to be shareware
$ 43 DYOH: Architecture by Abracadata Good value! Object-oriented
$ 45 DreamHouse Pro by ComputerEasy
$ 45 Home: Deck by Autodesk
$ 45 Home: Home by Autodesk
$ 45 Home: Landscape by Autodesk
$ 49 DYOH: Interiors by Abracadata
$ 49 DYOH: Landscape by Abracadata
$ 50 FloorPlan Plus by ComputerEasy Decent but somewhat buggy
$ 75 TurboCAD by IMSI Harder to learn than I tolerate
$ 99 Windows Draw by MicroGrafx
$119 EasyCAD by Evolution Harder to learn than I tolerate
$146 AutoSketch by Autodesk
$175 DesignCAD 2D by ASBC
$230 AutoSketch for Windows by Autodesk
$259 DrafixCAD by Foresight
$285 Generic CADD by Generic
$349 MacDraft for Windows by IDD Excellent! Object-oriented
Some of these, such as MacDraft, are good enough to produce drawings
suitable for submission to city building plan inspectors *IF* you can
find a plotter. I couldn't; it cost me $500 to have a draftsman copy
my work onto 2'x3' vellum. Note that low end products are just suitable
for reasonably precise drawings of your ideas to give to a real drafter.
If any software can save in DXF format, most blueprinters have AutoCAD
and can load and print. Sometimes they can accept HPGL print files.
Otherwise, tape 8.5x11's together and they can be blueprinted in two
steps.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
(List 2)
Gardening/horticulture/landscaping/nursery software from HORTLINE BBS
Directory AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR HORTICULTURE SCIENCE
Number | File Directory Area Descriptions
|
1 | American Society for Horticultural Science Information
6 | Graphics and Statistical Programs
7 | Chemistry, Biochemistry and Genetic Files
8 | Instrumentation, Interfacing and Data Collection
9 | Horticulture (Ornamentals, Vegetables, Fruits)
10 | Food, Nutrition, Exercise and Health
11 | Education Programs and Foreign Language Tutorials
12 | USER UPLOADS
Directory 9 - Horticulture (Ornamentals, Vegetables, Fruits)
AGPRGS.ZIP 140818 11-05-88 Farm management (feed & livestock)
Collection of miscellaneous IBM-Basic
sub-routines
DESIGN.ZIP 9999 01-19-88 Apple Production & Profitability (BASIC)
(HortScience 21:1176-1177 - L.L. Creasy)
EPITHET.ZIP 52773 08-27-88 Epithet finder for plant names.
A fast computer directory to Latin and
Latinized plant epithets. (TCR shareware)
FASTKEY.ZIP 47995 08-27-88 Key out woody landscape plants quickly.
A quick key to woody landscape plants,
using 4 vegetative (leaf)
characteristics
for identification. (TCR shareware)
GARDEN.ZIP 3445 12-08m8> Plan your garden -- BASIC program
(crude but effective)
GARDENER.ZIP 50073 04-28-88 Garden planning program (w/Pascal listing)
GARDPRO.ZIP 47846 08-27-88 Calculate garden productivity.
A garden productivity calculator for
determining the efficiency and
productivity
of vegetable & fruit gardens.
(TCR shareware)
[some information on GPLAN and GASSLIB was lost due to line noise,
entries reconstructed from memory and with guesswork]
GASSLIB.ZIP 170385 10-02-88 The Gardener's Assistant
An interesting garden planning program
which accounts for crops planted,
family size, garden size and geographical
area.
GPLAN.ZIP 86067 08-27-88 The Garden Planner
Plan your garden/nursery/greenhouse space.
Garden Planner provides over 60 easy to
learn commands to draw vegetable gardens
and other row crops. (TCR shareware)
SHORT.ZIP 39075 08-27-88 sHORThand (tm) program to create job lists.
sHORThand is used to produce job lists of
horticultural activities. A useful tool
for research supervisors, landscape foremen,
farm managers, and curators.
(TCR shareware)
TREELAB.ZIP 100776 08-27-88 Tree Trivia GTREE TRIVIA GAME
has over 400 questions on
plants, people, places and facts on
culti[vars]
DELUXE HORTICULTURAL LABELER is a 2-line label printing program with a
built-in database of 200 woody plant
scientific names & 200 common names.
(USDA zones 2-7). (TCR shareware)
Welcome to the HortLine BBS!
The American Society for Horticultural Science BBS
300/1200/2400 bps - (703) 836-2418
113 South West Street, Suite 400,
Alexandria, VA, 22314-2824
-------------------------------------------------------------------
(List 3)
Shareware:
(many of these programs are available for download from the
Agricultural Library Forum BBS at the National Agricultural Library)
PLAN-IT.ZIP
GPLAN.ZIP
GARDASST.ZIP
GARDENER.ZIP
PLANTMAN.ZIP
LNDSCPMN.ZIP
--------------------------------------------------------------------
(List 4)
Commercial:
1) for IBM and older Macs(OS 4.5 or earlier):
"The Garden Manager" Garden Manager Jeff Ball and Gary Gack. P.O. Box 338
Springfield, Pa., 19064 I think this is the one also available from Ortho
as: "Ortho's Computerized Gardening" from: Chevron Chemical Co. 6001
Bollinger Canyon Rd. San Ramon, Ca., 94583
2) for IBM and Mac "Hortis Opis",
plant finder & reference list J. Mendoza Gardens, Inc. 18 East
16th St. New York, N.Y., 10003
3) for Apple/Mac "Mum's the Word",
planning tool with drawing program (scaled drawings) & information
database Terrace Software P.O. Box 1236 Cambridge, Mass., 02238
4) for IBM
"The Plant Database Library", computerized plant encyclopedia, landscape
plant selector, & garden notebook Taxonomic Computer Research P.O. Box
12011 Raleigh, N.C., 27605
5) operating system unknown "Just the Right
Rose", database of 600 roses, old and new varieties. Rosebud 3707 SW
Coronado St. Portland, Oregon, 97219
6) for IBM "Infopoint Software
Finder", basic database of plant and bulb information, cultural data, &
mailorder sources Infopoint Software P.O. Box 83 Arcola, MO, 65603
7) for IBM
"Gardenview", garden planning and design program; 3-dimensional color
graphics, 380-plant database, "Time Display" feature displays plant growth
changes during the seasons of the year and at times in the future. Other
features: ability to change viewing angle in drawing, edit and add to
database, save or print drawings. SOURCE UNKNOWN
8) freeware for MAC
"Garden Stack", freeware Garden Stack designed by Frank Grimes, simple and
elegant little garden organizer: First Card, the Database, and the Garden
Card. Educorp 531 Stevens Ave.#B Solana Beach, CA, 92075 Request:
"Productivity Stack #7406"
For more information see: "The Growing Edge" Magazine Vol.2 #1, Fall
1990, see pps. 28-35 $4.95, The Growing Edge, New Moon Publishing, Inc.
215 SW 2nd St., Suite #201, Corvallis, Oregon, 97333 503-757-0027;
published quarterly
The Agricultural Library Forum (ALF) BBS sponsored by
the National Agricultural Library in Beltsville, Md. makes most of the
shareware listed above available for download. They can be reached at
these numbers 24 hours @ 1200-2400-9600 baud.
Landscape Plant Manager
Version 1.00 Plant Information System by Robert W. Boufford Feris State
College Ornamental Horticulture Technology program Department of
Biological Sciences Big Rapids, MI 49307 The Landscape Plant Manager is a
specialized computer information management program for use in
horticulture education programs and the landscaping industry. The prime
goal of LPM is to be a plant selector to assist you in the selection of
plants based on design criteria. LPM was developed as an alternative to
constantly paging through nursery catalogs and plant manuals when trying
to find plants for a particular landscape situation. The Landscape Plant
Manager will allow you to: -Add, delete and modify information about
plants used in the landscape. -Search for plants based on scientific name
or common name. -Search for plants matching one or more design criteria
for use in the landscape
TCR GARDEN PLANNER
Horticultural Shareware from TAXONOMIC COMPUTER RESEARCH
This program is being distributed as
shareware. If you find it useful, please send $39.00 to: Taxonomic
Computer Research P.O. Box 5747 Raleigh, North Carolina 27650-5747 TCR
Garden Planner provides over 60 easy to learn commands to draw vegetable
gardens and other row crops. It allows full use of multiple color
combinations/monochrome tones and most ASCII symbols for maximum contrast.
Many commands operate from function keys and all have plain English names
like plant, delete, path, bed, wall, label, titleblock, grid, color, etc.
It has also been useful for drawing nursery fields and greenhouse space.
TCR Garden Planner consists of the following files:
GPLAN.EXE TCR GARDEN PLANNER -
60+ commands to draw
vegetable gardens, greenhouse beds,
nursery fields, and other row crops.
Print manual below and type 'help'
in the program for list of commands.
GPLAN.DOC ASCII format manual for above.
Load into any
wordprocessor as an ASCII, unformatted,
or non-document file. Repaginate, format
margins, format page length, and print.
Can be printed from DOS:
A> type gplan.doc >prn COMMAND.GAR
sample garden plan that can be loaded with
gplan.exe. Shows basic commands.
*.gar extension for plans saved by gplan.exe
GARDENVIEW 5.1 for EGA/VGA PCs. Complete plant database plus 32,000
colour 3D design capability. $195. Free information. MINDSUN, RD2, Box
710, Andover, NJ, 07821 (201) 398-9557
CHIP (Computerized Horitcultural
Information Planner) Over 5,000 plant profiles cross-referenced for your
needs for an "Achievable Paradise." Demo disk available for $25. IBM
compatible Call or write for free brochure: Paradise Information, Inc.,
P. O. Box 1701, East Hampton, NY 11937. (516)324-2334 or (800)544-2721
MUM's THE WORD Integrated plant database and garden design software.
Symbol library, colour or B/W. FOR MACINTOSH.
Terrace Software, P.O. Box 271, Medford, MA 02155 (617)396-0382
Gardenview ($195,IBM): This program has drawing and design function
and a 450-plant modifiable zoned plant list;features ed color drawings
of flowers vegies and landscape plants and shows the landscape changin
colors with the seasons. Mindsun 1-201-398-9557
LandDesigner $89,IBM) This design program has a modifiable zoned plant
list ($34 extra). I calculates how many plants are needed to fill an
area and the approx cost. Green Thumb Software 1-303-460-8384.
Design Your Own Home Landscape ($99, Mac, IBM) Abracadata Ltd PO Box
2440 Eugene OR 97402
Mum's the Word Plus ($165, Mac) 600 plant database. Terrace Software
1-617-396-0382.
Hortis Opis ($250, IBM) A 2k plant nonmodifiable database and journal
program for trees, shrubs, vines and grasses. J. Mendoza Gardens,
1-212-989-4253.
Rosebud ($44, IBM) A 700-rose database that lets you search for 50
characteristics such as color, fragrance,size,thpe and disease
resistance. Rosebug 1-503-245-0546
Perpetual Garden Journal and Reminder System ($29, IBM) A program for
keeping gardening notes. Complete with horticulture tips and a search
function. Double_Pawed Software 432 Bigelow Hollow Rd. Eastford CT 06242
Plant Doctor ($64, IBM) Diagnoses vegetables, fruit and nut diseases.
Elemental Software 1-802-755-0701.
Gardenfind ($39, IBM) An index of the articles tipss and letters in
six gardening magazines from '89 to '91. Gardenfind Magazine Index
1-206-743-6605.
To learn more about these products read the March/April issue of
National Gardening 1-802-863-1308.
Retyped from Thursday/May7/1992/STAR TRIBUNE, from the Cox News Service.
Green Thumb Software, Inc. of Boulder has announced LandDesigner-Pro, a
powerful CAD software program developed for landscape design. The tool
enables landscaping professionals to quickly produce high-quality designs
for landscapes, gardens, walkways and sprinkler systems on a personal
computer. More than 300 pre-drawn symbols for plants and other landscaping
materials are included and 12 layers are available for use as overlays to
keep designs organized. Call 1-800-336-3127 for information.
When I was at MacWorld a couple of weeks ago, I saw a demonstration
of a package by Alias called UpFront. This has to be the most useful
program I have ever seen (commercially available) for architecture.
It is so flexible, they call it the world's first 3D napkin! It is
fast, and does shading and shadows. The commercial price was about
$800 list, with substancial educational discounts available also.
If you are not familiar with Alias, they are the leaders in 3d
technology, and their programs are widely used to create special effects
in the film industry (examples being Terminator 2 and the Abyss)
There is also a new program for the Mac called "Sprout!". I've seen
it for sale in MacWarehouse. Here's the blurb:
Sprout helps you plan your vegetable garden graphically
on your Mac. It comes with editable vegetable databases
for seven regions, complete with information on planting
and harvesting times, normal yields, preferred soil pH,
spacings for seeds, rows and plants, and cool vs. warm
seasons. A planting tool snaps to the correct row and
plant spacings, then fills in the row with plant symbols.
Rulers and guides in various scales simplify designing
your garden.
Its from Abracadata, and it sells for $45.
From: jhipps@crl.com (Jay Hipps)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lanscape Software
Date: 3 May 1994 12:13:53 -0700
: >Does anyone know of software that will allow to me select trees, shrubs,etc.
: >and visually represent what they may look like in 1,2,5,10, 25 years.
The latest MacConnection catalog lists two products. The first,
FLOWERscape, is $48 and allows you to view month-to-month growth. Here's
their blurb: "Beautiful plant photos and easy to use menus let you create
a realistic, year-round garden on your computer before spending a cent
[on plants, anyway ;)]. Simply enter your geographic location and
FLOWERscape recommends which plants are suitable for your garden. Select
plants by color, size, scent, drought tolerance, and more." (More stuff
deleted.)
Requires color monitor (256 colors), 1.5 M RAM, and *9.5 Megs* HD space.
The second product sounds more like what you're looking for and is (of
course) more expensive at $75. "Design breathtaking gardens with an
integrated plant database, drawing program, and landscape symbol library.
Terrace Software's "Mum's the Word Plus" helps you visualize different
landscapes and plan healthy, long-lasting gardens. Its extensive database
of perennials, trees, shrubs, grasses, herbs, ground covers, and annuals
provides information on plant appearance, culture, uses, drought
tolerance, and more." (more stuff deleted.)
I haven't used either of these, so I can't give a first-hand review. They
both come with a 30-day money back guarantee, however. :)
I'm hoping for "SimGarden," myself. "Month 3: One of your nursery
purchases contained some Bermuda grass roots which are now sprouting in
sector H-5. How do you respond?"
Jay Hipps
jhipps@crl.com
-=*=-
From: tkeough@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:landscaping software
Date: 3 May 94 12:41:50 -0230 NDT
I recently purchased LandDesigner for Windows puto ut by Green Thumb
Software. It has quite a numbero f features, including over 300 pre-drawn
symbols, an integrated plant database (available plant libraries as well).
It also has a grow feature which allows you to see what your plans and
plants will look like in 5 or 10 years. It also has budgeting features and
can layout a sprinkler system.
I'm only now getting into using it but I don't find it too difficult at all
. I paid about $80.00 Canadian for it at a local software house so I don't
think it is too difficult to find. I'd like to now if anyone else enjoys
this software.
Simone
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ai811@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Jon Meyer)
Subject: Re: garden software
Date: Fri, 27 May 1994 05:36:50 GMT
There is a program called `Sprout!' which is sold by Abracadabra, Ltd.
It is a graphical based program for designing your garden. It has a
number of plant databases that contain all sorts of info on flowers and
veggies. You use a mouse to draw plots of various crops. It will even
tell you the yield of veggies for a given area of planting. The screen is
scaled in feet or meters (your choice). When you have finalized a design
you can print it out. It will also produce a seed list (the number of
seeds that you will need for each type of plant) that corresponds to the
size of plots that you drew.
Here's there address:
Abracadabra, Ltd.
PO BOX 2440
Eugene, OR
97402
Jon Meyer ai811@freenet.carleton.ca | af297@freenet.hsc.colorado.edu
pike@cyberspace.org | (^.^)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: abracad@efn.org (Abracadata Ltd.)
Subject: Description and location of SPROUT! demo. Design your garden!
Summary: Powerful gardening tool!!!
Keywords: garden
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 06:54:00 GMT
Sprout!(R) is a "ground breaking" program to help you plan your
vegetable garden and schedule planting times. Its unique planting
planting tool produces a graphic, scalable garden plan with correct
plant and row spacing.
Visualize how your garden will look before it is planted. Easy-to-use
design tools help you effortlessly draw garden layouts. There are an
unlimited number of scale choices available for each unit of measurement
(inches, centimeters) allowing for a wide range of plot sizes. You can
even use it for a small farm!
It's packed with useful growing information. The program includes an
edible database of over 80 vegetables for seven climate regions,
complete with all the growing information needed to plan next year's
harvest. A yield estimate, shopping list of seeds, pH chart, planting
and harvest calendar is provided. In addition to a climate map of the
United States, there are climate maps of Canada and Europe.
Organize your planting information in one handy location each year to
help you plan for successful crop rotations and to schedule successive
plantings.
** SPECIAL OFFER!! **
Take $15.00 off the retail price of SPROUT! when you purchase it from
this catalog.
This program is available for the following systems, and requirements
are listed.
Retail:
Windows: Windows 3.1 or higher. $59.95
DOS: Dos 3.3 or higher, 640k, hard drive, and mouse. $59.95
Mac: 1 MB RAM, hard drive recommended. $79.95
Demo filename: spr(dos,mac).zip
* Macintosh Demo coming soon! Keep checking in!!
This file is available on anonymous FTP site efn.org in /pub/abra. Just
go into the directory with your system type (i.e. DOS, MAC, etc) and the
demo file will be there!
From: John Hovan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Master Gardener Software
Date: 3 Jun 1994 15:30:29 GMT
PRESS RELEASE
COMPANY: ROSETTA STONE INFORMATION SYSTEMS
DATE: APRIL 1994
INTRODUCING: MASTER GARDENER, TREES AND SHRUBS v1.0
for the Apple Macintosh computer:
Master Gardener v1.0...
...allows you to plan your landscape shrubs and trees before you
head off to the nursery.
...gives you access to over 400 color images with the click of a mouse.
...provides you with Latin pronunciations of more than 600 trees and
shrubs.
...allows you the freedom of visualizing gardening information in new
ways by using the powerful search capabilities which even the best
gardening books cannot provide.
...gives you the power to view trees and shrubs by common name or
scientific name. Personally, this is the most exciting features of this
CD has to offer after the personal disappointment of wading through
endless gardening books with terrible indexes.
...has one of the worlds most complete greenhouse supplier database
with vendor phone numbers.
...as an added bonus allows you access to information such as State
Trees, a compost calculator, common vendors in the gardening
industry, botanical gardens in the US. and a complete section of
gardening terms along with definitions.
Imagine being able to....
...create a list of all the trees and shrubs that grow in Zone 5, have
yellow color, grow taller than 15 feet, are deciduous and drought
tolerant! It would take a Master Gardener or nursery expert hours
to compile such a list that this software will provide to you in
minutes!
...create the perfect carbon to nitrogen ratio in your compost pile to
make compost in half the time with an exacting recipe. The compost
calculator in Master Gardener lets you do just that along with
allowing you to add you own materials with their specific carbon and
nitrogen ratios.
...teach and show your children or students some of the beauty that
nature has to offer.
...have at your fingertips the definitions of over 100 gardening and
botanical terms.
If you are as excited a gardening enthusiast as I am, I know you will
love this product!
TO ORDER YOUR COPY AND TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE INTRODUCTORY
PRICING:
(Suggested Retail Price is $29.)
Send $18.00 which includes $3 for shipping to:
Rosetta Stone Information Systems
PO Box 1488
Pflugerville, TX 78691
If you would like more information on the Master Gardener Software
or if you would like to sell Master Gardener in you Nursery Center or
Gardening Catalog, call (512) 251-9009.
Sincerely,
John Lincoln Hovan
Gardener and President of Rosetta Stone Information Systems
A DOS version may be available in the future.
Macintosh is a trademark of Apple Computer Corporation
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: csgatlin@rodan.syr.edu (Cheryl Sue Gatling)
Subject: Re: garden software
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 22:51:23 GMT
The Better Homes and Gardens Special Interest Publication: Garden Products
and Planning Guide (available at newsstands now) has an article called "Go
Green on the Screen". It lists four software programs.
Sprout!, Abracadata, Ltd., P.O.Box2440, Eugene, OR 97402; 800/451-4871
LandDesigner, Green Thumb Software, Inc., 75 Manhattan Dr., Suite 100,
Boulder, CO 80303; 800/336-3127
Design Your Own Home-Landcape, Abracadata, address and phone above
Landscape, Autodesk Retail Products, 11911 North Creek Pkwy., S, Bothell,
WA 98011; 800/223-3601.
I haven't tried any of these, so I can't comment on if they're any good,
but it's a place to start.
Cheryl Gatling
From: Fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscape Design Software
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 22:56:04 GMT
>I'm looking for some advice on a software package for landscape design.
>Locally I've seen a couple of programs:
> Home Landscape from Autodesk
> Landscape Designer from Green Thumb
Landscape Designer is a very nice CAD program for home use. The price is
right ($32 at Best Buy for mine) and it includes a plant library from White
Flower Farm. If you're looking for 3D you'll have to move up into the
professional CAD programs. I think there's a Pro version of Landscape
Designer. E-mail me if you have any specific questions. I'm planning to do
a review of Landscape Designer (in my copious spare time ;-) sometime in the
next month.
Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: P23791@email.mot.com (Lucius L. Lockwood)
Subject: Re: Landscape Design Software
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 1994 15:43 mst
> >I'm looking for some advice on a software package for landscape design.
> >Locally I've seen a couple of programs:
> > Home Landscape from Autodesk
> > Landscape Designer from Green Thumb
I have used Home Landscape from Autodesk, although not the latest version.
I was satisfied with the results, which printed out a very nice landscape
plan on my old 9-pin printer. The program was a bit difficult to use, but
after a while noodling around with it, I was able to find my way around it.
I was frustrated with the lack of an ability to pan or to selectively zoom
out. I was also frustrated with the inordinate amount of time the program
takes to "snap to the closest point" when the drawing is farily busy [it
is fast when there is not much in memory]. The user interface needs some
polish, but other than that, it did the job that I wanted it to do.
Opinions expressed are Mine - Take 'em or Leave 'em.
lucius_lockwood@email.mot.com USDA Zone 9 Arid Monsoonal
From: mbergen@iastate.edu (Margaret Bergen)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscaping software
Date: 15 Sep 94 00:11:52 GMT
>Does anybody know of any Landscaping or gardening software for IBM or
>Mac? I have friend that is about to get into that business and would
>like to be able to design things on her computer. Any help would be
>greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I just graduated form a Landscape Architecture program and the software they
use are Landcadd and Autocad (They work together). Thats quite expensive
though - I think a couple thousand dollars. I'm not sure, but I think they
now have a version of Landcadd that will work without Autocad, but I'm not
sure of the price. I remember seeing a special price for Landcadd for
students. The # for landcadd is 303-799-3600. I don't really know about
any other software, but I'm sure that there is some that is cheaper. I do
remember seeing some in stores.
--
From: Fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscaping software
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 00:33:22 GMT
>Does anybody know of any Landscaping or gardening software for IBM or
>Mac? I have friend that is about to get into that business and would
>like to be able to design things on her computer. Any help would be
>greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
LandDesigner for Windows is a good place to start. About $35 (I got mine at
Best Buy). It has a nice set of features for a small CAD program, including
a White Flower Farm searchable plant library. You can graduate to the
professional version later. Green Thumb Software.
If you're interested in a review of FLOWERscape, a flower garden design
program, check out the WWW site - The Garden Gate.
http://prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.html
There is an illustrated version of the review available under Illustrated E-
reviews.
Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org
==========================================================================
Logging no computer time until it's too dark to garden...
==========================================================================
http:www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm, The Garden Gate
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: "curt carlson"
Subject: Re: Landscaping software
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 8:24:53 PDT
>Does anybody know of any Landscaping or gardening software for IBM or
>Mac? I have friend that is about to get into that business and would
>like to be able to design things on her computer. Any help would be
>greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I just picked up a copy of LandDesigner for Windows from Green Thumb; I
believe they have a "professional" version as well. It's easy to use,
contains a database of plants/shrubs from Whiteflower Farms, and additional
DBs are available. The one thing I wish it did is "grow" a plan over a
single year to show flowering seasons.
Curt Carlson
curtis.carlson@stpaul.ncr.com
Article 44301 of rec.gardens:
From: rln@metasoft.UUCP (Roberta Norin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscaping software
Date: 20 Sep 94 19:36:12 GMT
Fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) writes:
>>Does anybody know of any Landscaping or gardening software for IBM or
>>Mac? I have friend that is about to get into that business and would
>>like to be able to design things on her computer. Any help would be
>>greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Mum's the Word Plus is a landscape design program for the Macintosh.
It combines an object-oriented drawing program with a extendible plant
database (625 plants) and a landscape symbol library (over 100 symbols
to start). Search for plants by color, size, culture, etc. and then
drag the plant you want to your design and click. The plant symbol for
the plant is drawn at the correct scale. It is labeled and a planting
list is maintained. Double-click the planted symbol to view the plant
information. Add your own plants to the database and your own symbols
to the symbol libray. Search the drawing with database search criteria
to highlight all plants of a particular kind and/or color. Many other
features. In full color or Black and white. It lists for $119.00 but
is available for less through MacConnection. For more information,
contact:
Terrace Software
P.O. Box 271
Medford, MA 02155
(617) 396-0382
Roberta Norin
Article 44343 of rec.gardens:
From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Plant Identification Software II
Date: 22 Sep 1994 00:36:29 GMT
Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net
Several programs have a database feature. The one I like best is the
White Flower Farm Plant library that is part of LandDesigner for Windows
from Green Thumb Software (my copy was $32 at Best Buy)..
There is a simple program call Landscape and Herbaceous Plant Manager
Database which lets you select according to a wide variety of
characteristics. This is available on Compuserve on the Gardening
Forum. I haven't found an FTP site for it.
FLOWERscape by Voudette is a garden design program which allows selection
of flowers by various criteria. If you are Web-enabled, check out the
illustrated online review at the Garden Gate (URL below). Neat program.
Has a Mac version, too.
I have heard (but haven't seen) that Better Homes and Gardens (?) has a
gardening CD out. No idea what the features are.
--
Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org
* Logging no computer time until it's too dark to garden... *
************************************************************************
The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm
Article 44649 of rec.gardens:
From: rln@metasoft.UUCP (Roberta Norin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Plant Identification Software II
Date: 26 Sep 94 16:02:49 GMT
>I am looking for a program that will give you plant suggestion
>based upon certain criteria. Example - Sunny, well-drained soil,
>flowering, shrub would be typed in and list of plants meeting these
>would pop up on screen. Probably would be a CD-ROM. Oh, and if the
>people from Sunset read this, the Book would be great on CD-ROM, if it
>does not exist.
Try Florafile for Windows from Terrace Software. It does just what you
are asking for. It comes with over 600 plants and you can add your
own plants. $49.00.
Terrace has a similar product for the Mac where the plant selection software
is combined with a landscape design program. It is called Mum's the Word Plus
and its retail price is $119.00. I am the author of these two programs.
Roberta Norin
Terrace Software
PO Box 271
Medford MA 02155
617-396-0382
rln@metasoft.com
Article 44568 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mrbungle@netcom.com (Brendan Light)
Subject: Re: Software for plants--IT EXISTS
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 18:55:24 GMT
I know of two above average CD-ROMS for plants, that i have and can vouch
for.
The first is "The Exotic Garden" from VT productions. This was a VERY
hard find that I just happened to luck upon. I've never seen it in a
store, anywhere. Very summary info
but on many different plants. Tons of good pictures and good searching.
Only drawback is that you will be surprised how many plants were not
included. Even so, it is incredible.
VT Productions, Inc.
P.O. Box 339
Soquel, CA 95703
The second one is the Complete Guide to Gardening by Better Homes &
Gardens, widely available. Again, the info is much too encapsulted, but
another must have. I feel this one is aimed at the browner,
less-experienced thumb, and simply won't answer those tough questions
you're looking for. I know there is a demand for high level help in
gardening, but enough to go to ther real effort? I'd love to hear your
opinions on what SHOULD be included in a high-end gardening disk.
These are just a couple of treasures I thought I'd share.
mrbungle@netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns)
Subject: Plant Databases
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 23:33:56 -0400
Recently someone in this group asked about programs that would facilitate
the search of a database given particular plant characteristics. The
program would then present names of plants approximating the selected
parameters. I recently received the info below which you may find of
interest. Note the last sentence.
> Landscape Plant Manager
> Version 1.00 Plant Information System by Robert W. Boufford Feris State
> College Ornamental Horticulture Technology program Department of
> Biological Sciences Big Rapids, MI 49307 The Landscape Plant Manager is a
> specialized computer information management program for use in
> horticulture education programs and the landscaping industry. The prime
> goal of LPM is to be a plant selector to assist you in the selection of
> plants based on design criteria. LPM was developed as an alternative to
> constantly paging through nursery catalogs and plant manuals when trying
> to find plants for a particular landscape situation. The Landscape Plant
> Manager will allow you to: -Add, delete and modify information about
> plants used in the landscape. -Search for plants based on scientific name
> or common name. -Search for plants matching one or more design criteria
> for use in the landscape
--
Don Burns | Motorola E-Mail: epur01
Motorola Inc. | Internet: epur01@email.mot.com
Energy Products Division | Voice: 305-475-5518
Plantation, FL U.S.A. | Fax: 305-475-6095
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Plant Identification Software II
Date: 29 Sep 1994 17:57:55 GMT
> Try Florafile for Windows from Terrace Software. It does just what you
> are asking for. It comes with over 600 plants and you can add your
> own plants. $49.00.
600 plants isn't very many. The American Horticultural Society's
Encyclopedia of Garden Plants covers about 8,000 plants, with
photographs of about 4,000. Of these, probably over 600 fit the
proposed criterion "Sunny, well-drained soil, flowering, shrub"!
You don't get arbitrary search criteria, but it is well organized and
indexed(*) so in practice you can find plants meeting given criteria
pretty easily. In particular, there is an index where you can find a
list of recommended shrubs adapted to dry shade, etc. The price is
about the same as the Florafile program described above.
-s
(*) Actually, only the 4,000 plants that have photos really benefit
from their full organization; the other 4,000 are only listed
alphabetically by genus and species. Still, 4,000 well-indexed plants
is almost seven times as many as the Florafile program.
From: skinnerd@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Dave Skinner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscape software for 10 acre planning
Date: 30 Sep 1994 22:33:36 -0400
I just bought a copy of Garden Architect for Windows. I think it
might cover your needs. It was only $15 at Software, Etc. It has a
very small plant database, but it can accept add-ons, and it does
allow you to see what the landscape looks like at yearly intervals of
growthn. For $15, it's no big investment, and a lot of fun to
experiment with.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sy43078@gershwin.vantage (Roshini Joseph)
Subject: LandScape Sofware - Trees Database
Keywords: Landscape Trees Database
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 1994 14:12:16 GMT
I recently obtained TreeSelect (for Windows) put out by The Larch, Inc.
It is a database of over 800 trees of the US. It can be searched by
pointing and clicking from a screen that offers over 50 selections.
These include Zone, Use, Flowers, Fall color e tc.,
The on-help was pretty useful and extensive. It has a section devoted
to the basics of landscaping with trees.
I find it extremely easy to use, I paid around $30 for it mail order.
The number I called was 1-800-315-SOIL
From: rebecca.barber@syntex.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Looking for gardening shareware
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 95 17:09:03 PDT
Can anyone help point me in the direction of any of the following?
The Garden Guide (GARDEN15.ZIP)
Hortman (HTMN11.ZIP)
Organize your plants (PLANT560.ZIP)
Growit MkII (GROWIT2A.ZIP and GROWIT2B.ZIP)
I was told they are all shareware and available on finer computer bulletin
boards and servers everywhere, but I haven't been able to locate any of them
through an archie search of ftp sites, a FAQ hunt or a www search (a www
shareware archive called SHASE looks promising from the outside, but I haven't
been able to access it).
From: Jeff Martini
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden/Landscaping Design Software for Windows
Date: 5 Jan 1995 20:35:35 GMT
>Can anyone provide any recommendations for flower garden/landscaping
>design software for MS Windows
There is a CDrom for Windows that covers everything you asked for. I am
not sure if the program comes on diskette though. The company is called
BOOKS THAT WORK. I couldn't tell you how good it works, I'm waiting for
the MAC version to come out. I also don't have an postal address for the
company, but I do have an email address of the marketing guy:
Tom Bradshaw TomAtBTW@aol.com
From: ppostuma@nbnet.nb.ca (Paul Postuma)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Plant growing software
Date: 8 Jan 1995 04:06:31 GMT
I don't know any of the software packages you mention. However,
One shareware program I do know, called Grow'Em, 'cause I wrote it. Though
version 3.0 isn't yet ready for distribution (another few months), I'm
willing to release 2.1 to the public domain. It's a vast improvement over
version 1.0 though it lacks the digitized pictures, and obviously some of
the information, contained in 3.0.
From: scotty@eos-prog.whoi.edu (Scott J. McCue)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landscape Software
Date: 9 Jan 1995 16:38:44 GMT
I'm also curious about net-folk experiences with landscape software.
Looking through the Mac sw catalogs (I suspect the original poster
wants sw for an Intel box), I see the following offerings:
"Design Your Own Home: Landscape 2.0"
"Mum's the Word Plus"
"Key CAD Complete for the MacIntosh" includes a symbols pkg.
-
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 95 7:40:01 EST
From: Marwood
Subject: Re: Garden/Landscaping Design Software for Windows
There is, in fact, another package which was not mentioned which I have
seen for sale locally here. It is called "3-D Landscape". It may,
possibly, be an evolution of one of the packages which was mentioned.
I have found that there is a demo version available from gardening.com
which gives some idea of its capabilities.
-
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman)
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 22:46:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Garden/Landscaping Design Software for Windows
There are two programs that I found.
LandDesignerpro - Green thumb software - 75 manhattan dr. ste 100 -
boulder co 80303 - 800-336-3127 - 303499-1388 price 395.00 call
for information
Landcadd for windows - 7388 s revere pkw bldg 900 ste 901-902
englewood co 80112-3942 phone 800-876-5263 - 303-799-3600 This
package works under autocadd as well as windows. This is a very
high level package.
They will send demos out of both to show results. I have ordered
the demos and will let you know.
-
From: MH7709A@american.edu (Melissa C. Hicks)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Best CD-ROM IBM gardening software?
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 17:30:16 EST
Daniel Woodard (SA073@getty.onu.edu) wrote:
> Can any of you give me an idea of what the best CD software for
> gardening is? Thanks!
I don't know which software is best. But, I did read a review of
"Better Homes and Gardens Complete Guide to Gardening" (Windows/Mac),
which recommended it as an excellent source for garden neophytes.
For more information contact Multicom Publishing (800)850-7272.
I hope this is helpful.
Melissa
MH7709A@american.edu
-
From: Bill Terrill
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden Software
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 20:47:53 -0500
Try "The Gardeners Asst. & Landscape Plant Manager" I got them at Wal-mart
They are shareware. Wal-mart had them on the shareware counter and they were
put there from Goodtimes Software. Goodtimes phone number 212-951-3126.
Hope this helps. BTW, I think I paid less than $10 for the packet but you
should register if you like it and continue to use it.
-
From: XCZH74A@prodigy.com (Shawn Wakefield)
Newsgroups: alt.landscape.architecture
Subject: Re: Software suggestions?
Date: 7 Feb 1995 05:29:53 GMT
Green Thumb. For a design program. Excellent. $1000.00 for design and
irrigation program. Data bases for your zones, Parts inventory, does
cost break down. Bids your job, changes are easy and re bids.
Professional.
Call Green Thumb for free demo disk,
Green Thumb Software, Inc
Attn; Bruce Miller
75 Manhattan Drive
Suite 100
Boulder, CO 80303
(303)499-1388 EXT 103
Let him know Shawn Wakefield referred you. Maybe I can get a free shirt.
I was impressed.
-
End Feb. 10, 1995 Update
Article 180 of alt.landscape.architecture:
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From: mwitter@xs4all.nl (Michel Witter)
Newsgroups: alt.landscape.architecture
Subject: Software for garden design & growing
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 1995 21:13:52 +0100
Organization: The Katharos Foundation
Lines: 20
Message-ID:
NNTP-Posting-Host: system32.media-gn.iaf.nl
Hello,
A very good friend of mine is looking for some (Macintosh) software on
garden design and plant/tree information/growing.
She found out that a PC program exists called Gardentime 2.0 by Swan (?)
Can anyone give her a clue where to find some info on Mac-version software?
Please reply by email to the address below (Sig.).
Greetings, Michel.
+ Michel M.L. Witter +
mwitter@xs4all.nl
The Katharos Foundation
Be UYSE
+ Use Your Sensory Equipment +
Article 55460 of rec.gardens:
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From: defurst@u.washington.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Botanical Software???
Date: 18 Feb 1995 16:54:34 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <3i58oa$af9@nntp1.u.washington.edu>
References:
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
I believe the new and soon-to-be-released DCROM version of Sunset's
Garden Book meets most if not all of your criteria, however it covers
plants most suitable for the US West.
In addition, I have found these products, looking since ~August/94:
Hort-A-Sort ($69.95) from Birdbrain Software easily wins the
silliest name award, but its 2,000 plant encyclopedia shows an
intelligent mind under the humor. Hort-A-Sort is divided into nine
databases, but they seem more logical than Flower Finder's three --
flowering plants, for example, are lumped together, with separate
categories for cacti and succulents, alpine and rock plants, herbs and
everlastings, etc. No plants can be added, and the biggest drawback is
you can only search by one criterion at a time. This is laborious (and
searches are slow even in the small-sized demo version I reviewed), but
help menus are onscreen to list choices. Herb information was especially
good, and there are plant sources for all entries.
Hort-A-Sort
Birdbrain Software
S74 W20800 Field Dr.
Muskego, WI 53150
===
Plant-finder programs are enormously useful, integrating lots of
encyclopedic information, a definite advantage over paging through
scattered books and catalogs, and good systems make searches fast and
efficient. The Cadillac of the plant-finders is Hortis Opis ($250). Only
Volume I is available, with 5,000 trees, shrubs, vines, bamboos and
grasses. Complete with cultivars and vendor sources, it's a computerized
catalog. (Unfortunately, Volume II -- annuals, perennials, bulbs, roses,
ferns -- may be awhile, and vegetables aren't even planned.) Easy and
well designed, Hortis Opis has 18 search criteria with pop-up help menus,
a gratifying feature. Plant information is meticulous and exhaustive,
with a pop-up journal for notes. If you could add plants to this
magnificent encyclopedia, Hortis Opis would be perfect.
Hortis Opis
J. Mendoza Gardens
18 E. 16th St.
New York City, NY 10003
212-989-4253
*************
If you receive other inforomation directly, would you repost it or
forward it to me as well? Thanx.
In article ,
Grahame Rumsby wrote:
>Does anyone know of either CD or regular software that has photos,
>descriptions, latin as well as common plant names that are searchable and able
>to be cross referenced???
>Have been looking 4 some time but not 2 lucky as of yet..
>
>Thanx,
>
>Grahame
Article 55365 of rec.gardens:
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From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:45:40 -0500
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 26
Message-ID:
References: <3hrv20$hpg@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <3i68a1$pt2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kc.tiac.net
In article <3i68a1$pt2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
wrote:
> Garden Database... I have begun something similar - but using Filemaker
> Pro (MAC, but runs on MAC-Wannabees as well). Tedious and time
> consuming... I can appreciate anyone who has accomplished this before and
> would also be quite willing to buy one when found...
Have you tried 'PlantBase 1.5'? It's a FileMakerPro database of over 1,000
plants (mostly woodies, vines, etc.) that I downloaded about a year ago
from your very own AOL FileMaker area. I liked it so I bought the full
version, and now that I tweaked it to suit my needs I love it! Simple
design, works well. Try the keyword "FILEMAKER" at AOL
I don't know if the folks who wrote it are still around - -they haven't
responded to recent email but they are:
Intuitive Workings
IntuitWork@AOL.com
303-973-2837
I'd send you the demo but I trashed it long ago. Along with AOL (not that
there's anything wrong with AOL). Nothing's the same after you've drunk
from the Net with a SLIP/PPP firehose...
Kevin
Article 55264 of rec.gardens:
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From: philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:59:07 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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GANTT chart can be created in EXCEL by using stacking bar chart format,
using first data column (in spreadsheet) for elapsed time from a start
date (such as January 1st) and then setting this first fill pattern in the
chart to "none" so that it becomes invisible...
I use this format in interior design/architecture practice for project
scheduling...
Good luck!
Phil
Article 57278 of rec.gardens:
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From: pld@fc.hp.com (Paul Dineen)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 'Garden in Time' software beta tests - please read
Date: 3 Mar 1995 23:38:57 GMT
Organization: HP WRCO, Fort Collins, CO
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Rick Gebethner (ric@magi.com) wrote:
: A few weeks ago I posted a request for participants in a beta testing
: program for 'Garden in Time' 3D flower garden design software.
...
: I will be setting up a home page and ftp site over the next few weeks
: which will give you a flavor of what 'Garden in Time' is all about. If
: you can't wait until then, then email me.
Have you set up the home page yet?
Article 5775 of bionet.plants:
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From: overmind@webe.hooked.net (Tim Johnson)
Newsgroups: bionet.plants
Subject: Ethnobotanical Database: Newsletter #1
Date: 20 Mar 1995 20:37:19 -0800
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OVERMIND #1
HERBAGE: ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The most recent version of Herbage (version 1.1) is a DOS program that
allows searches of a very large database of plants both commonplace and
exotic. You can search in 10 categories, including nutrition information,
native range and habitat, traditional uses as treatment for specific
illnesses, and mail-order sources. The information focuses on the human
uses of plants that have stood the test of time. Many of the plant uses
described in the database date back thousands of years.
The shareware (demo) version of the program has been posted on Simtel, and
is available from the various Simtel mirror sites around the world. One of
them is oak.oakland.edu. You can obtain it by using anonymous FTP login to
oak.oakland.edu / simtel / msdos / biology. The demo version contains
information on 262 plants. Feel free to copy and redistribute this version
of Herbage.
The registered version has information on 662 plants, and is available from
Overmind Software for $15. Overmind Software does not currently accept
credit cards, but this will are planning to add this service in the next
few months.
Our address:
Overmind Software
1388 Haight St. #161
San Francisco, CA, 94117
USA
email: overmind@hooked.net
We are accepting bids from programmers who would like to port the C source
code for Herbage to the Macintosh and UNIX environments. If you are
interested, please send a resume to one of the addresses listed above, and
include information on desired compensation.
What is "Overmind"? - it is the consciousness the human species as a whole,
or something like that. There is more information about this in a book: The
Archaic Revival, by Terence McKenna (p. 159, pub: Harper, San Francisco).
From xx143@prairienet.orgSun Apr 9 22:35:57 1995
Date: 12 Mar 1995 12:38:56 GMT
From: Koeltz Scientific Books
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FREE GARDENING SOFTWARE
we have several shareware and free gardening software
programs available for downloading from our windows based
bulletin board. you must get our client program first in order
to access our bbs and get these programs. this program
is available on the internet via www
http://www.prairienet.org/business/koeltz/homepage.htm not html!
programs include medicinal plants & uses, vegetable garden plotter,
flower garden plotter and database, herbal plants uses, plus
internet addresses for botanists, biologists guide to the internet, etc
. and our botany books catalogs of course.
--
********************** Koeltz Scientific Books USA **********************
* www.prairienet.org/business/koeltz/homepage.htm phone 217-355-9331 *
* email: xx143@prairienet.org BBS Modem (DirectDial) 217-355-4532 *
*************************************************************************
From fletcher@prairienet.orgSun Apr 9 22:45:08 1995
Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:11:09 GMT
From: Karen Fletcher
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FYI: Gardening software reviews on the WWW
Since there have been a lot of questions lately, here are a couple of
starting points. Both are available via The Garden Gate, on the new
Gardening Software page:
FLOWERSCAPE: An illustrated e-review.
The Garden Gate's own review of a garden design program
for PC and Mac.
"A Look at Landscape and Gardening Software"
http://www.wimsey.com/tcp/Jan95/Gardening.html
By Martin P. Waterman. From Canada's
_The Computer Paper_, this article discusses
software programs for garden layout and design.
Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org
==========================================================================
The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm
The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm
The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm
Article 55460 of rec.gardens:
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From: defurst@u.washington.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Botanical Software???
Date: 18 Feb 1995 16:54:34 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
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Message-ID: <3i58oa$af9@nntp1.u.washington.edu>
References:
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
I believe the new and soon-to-be-released DCROM version of Sunset's
Garden Book meets most if not all of your criteria, however it covers
plants most suitable for the US West.
In addition, I have found these products, looking since ~August/94:
Hort-A-Sort ($69.95) from Birdbrain Software easily wins the
silliest name award, but its 2,000 plant encyclopedia shows an
intelligent mind under the humor. Hort-A-Sort is divided into nine
databases, but they seem more logical than Flower Finder's three --
flowering plants, for example, are lumped together, with separate
categories for cacti and succulents, alpine and rock plants, herbs and
everlastings, etc. No plants can be added, and the biggest drawback is
you can only search by one criterion at a time. This is laborious (and
searches are slow even in the small-sized demo version I reviewed), but
help menus are onscreen to list choices. Herb information was especially
good, and there are plant sources for all entries.
Hort-A-Sort
Birdbrain Software
S74 W20800 Field Dr.
Muskego, WI 53150
===
Plant-finder programs are enormously useful, integrating lots of
encyclopedic information, a definite advantage over paging through
scattered books and catalogs, and good systems make searches fast and
efficient. The Cadillac of the plant-finders is Hortis Opis ($250). Only
Volume I is available, with 5,000 trees, shrubs, vines, bamboos and
grasses. Complete with cultivars and vendor sources, it's a computerized
catalog. (Unfortunately, Volume II -- annuals, perennials, bulbs, roses,
ferns -- may be awhile, and vegetables aren't even planned.) Easy and
well designed, Hortis Opis has 18 search criteria with pop-up help menus,
a gratifying feature. Plant information is meticulous and exhaustive,
with a pop-up journal for notes. If you could add plants to this
magnificent encyclopedia, Hortis Opis would be perfect.
Hortis Opis
J. Mendoza Gardens
18 E. 16th St.
New York City, NY 10003
212-989-4253
*************
If you receive other inforomation directly, would you repost it or
forward it to me as well? Thanx.
In article ,
Grahame Rumsby wrote:
>Does anyone know of either CD or regular software that has photos,
>descriptions, latin as well as common plant names that are searchable and able
>to be cross referenced???
>Have been looking 4 some time but not 2 lucky as of yet..
>
>Thanx,
>
>Grahame
Article 55365 of rec.gardens:
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From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:45:40 -0500
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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In article <3i68a1$pt2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
wrote:
> Garden Database... I have begun something similar - but using Filemaker
> Pro (MAC, but runs on MAC-Wannabees as well). Tedious and time
> consuming... I can appreciate anyone who has accomplished this before and
> would also be quite willing to buy one when found...
Have you tried 'PlantBase 1.5'? It's a FileMakerPro database of over 1,000
plants (mostly woodies, vines, etc.) that I downloaded about a year ago
from your very own AOL FileMaker area. I liked it so I bought the full
version, and now that I tweaked it to suit my needs I love it! Simple
design, works well. Try the keyword "FILEMAKER" at AOL
I don't know if the folks who wrote it are still around - -they haven't
responded to recent email but they are:
Intuitive Workings
IntuitWork@AOL.com
303-973-2837
I'd send you the demo but I trashed it long ago. Along with AOL (not that
there's anything wrong with AOL). Nothing's the same after you've drunk
from the Net with a SLIP/PPP firehose...
Kevin
Article 55264 of rec.gardens:
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From: philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:59:07 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 11
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GANTT chart can be created in EXCEL by using stacking bar chart format,
using first data column (in spreadsheet) for elapsed time from a start
date (such as January 1st) and then setting this first fill pattern in the
chart to "none" so that it becomes invisible...
I use this format in interior design/architecture practice for project
scheduling...
Good luck!
Phil
From Sun Jan 21 12:15:11 1996
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 20:12:32 -0800
From: RJ <">
To: london@sunSITE.unc.edu
Subject: Gardening software.FAQ
I am relaying this information to you, not as an advertisement, but instead for
your general information, as your address was listed at the top of the recently
posted FAQ entitled GARDEN SOFTWARE, Gardening in rec.gardens.
We have developed and have marketed for three years a landscape program called
Lafayette Landscape Designs (LLDesigns). To date, over 600 plants (mainly at this
time for Northern gardens) have been rendered in full color. The images show
excellent detail and clarity, and can be scaled to-size over scanned background
images, such as of a house or yard.
This software was originally developed by us for use with customers at our retail
bedding plant and perennial business in northeast Ohio. Rather than CAD type
images, these drawings are botanically correct, elevation views of plants, drawn
to-scale with each other, and drawn in and out of bloom. Using the supplied art
program, NeoPaint by NeoSoft (c) 1995, LLDesigns provides an easy-to-use way of
seeing what a design will really look like before planting.
We offer both a professional version, (also available in separate packages for
woody plants; annuals, and bulbs, and perennials), and a homeowners version. For
further information, we can be reached at . Coming soon will
be a web site at http://www.NE1.bright.net//lldesign/
We can also be reached by calling 1-800-60-PLANT.
We would appreciate being mentioned in future updates of the FAQ. Thank you for
your help in this matter. RIC & RHONDA JONES
> I want to buy a scythe. To cut a very small lawn with. Who sells a
> decent, but reasonably-priced one?
Smith & Hawken and A.M. Leonard sell a scythe with a straight snath
(lightweight, strong & easy to use) and a grass & grain blade that is
thin, long and can easily be sharpened razor-sharp. This tool is perfect
for cutting lawns. It _can_ remove weeds/grass right down to the sod.
It's fairly easy to maintain the proper stance and swinging motion
to cut your grass to a consistant height and in regular arcs that blend
together evenly.
A wonderful tool, indespensible for the rural dweller and suburban
gardener alike.
london@sunSITE.unc.edu
-
Agricultural Hand Tool Sources
Request a catalog from:
Johnny's Selected Seeds
Foss Hill Road
Albion, Maine, 04910
Customer service: 1-207-437-4301
They supply EARTHWAY and PLANET, Jr. seeders and will, on request
give you information on suppliers of other seeders (i.e. a small hand-carried
corn/bean seeder. You may want to hybridyze the EW and the P, Jr.
when planting small seeds in rough terrain. An organic vegetable grower
North Carolina has successfully done this.
-
>Whole Earth "Ecolog" mentioned five tool suppliers for farm and garden
>supplies; my hunch would be try Lehman's Hardware and Appliances,
>their catalog is $2.00 from PO Box 41, 4779 Kidron Rd., Kidron OH 44636;
>or Cumberland's, catalog $3.00 from rt. 3 box 81, Crossville TN 38555, and
>they have a telephone: 615-484-8481.
-
A.M. Leonard
241 Fox Drive
P.O. Box 816
Piqua, Ohio, 45356
1-800-543-8955
1-800-433-0633 fax
Mostly tree maintenance and nursery equipment,
plus miscellaneous excellent gardening/landscaping tools/supplies
eye hoes, scythes
-
Mellingers
Ohio
similar to Leonard
-
Forestry Suppliers, Inc.
P.O. Box 8397
205 West Rankin St.
Jackson, Mississippi, 39204
"Quality Forestry, Engineering and
Environmental Equipment, Shipped Worldwide"
tools, equipment and supplies for the forestry industry
-
Langenbach
"A Collection of the World's Finest Hand Tools"
P.O. Box 453
Blairstown, N.J., 07825
Toll Free: 1-800-362-1991
English-made high quality spades, spade forks, forks and much else
Excellent!
-
Smith and Hawken
"Tools of the Trade - A Complete Source For the Organic Gardener"
Orders:
2 Arbor Lane, Box 6900
Florence, Kentucky, 41022-6900
1-800-776-3336
General info:
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, California, 94941
1-415-383-2000
Also excellent! you may need to ask them what tools they
have for sale that are not listed in their catalogue,
held-over stock offered in out-of-date ones -
i.e. the 4"X7" Japanese field hoe (grub-type eye hoe using 1 3/4" X 54"
handle) they used to offer, an indispensible tool!
-
The Cook's Garden
"Seeds and Supplies for the New American Kitchen Garden"
P.O. Box, 535
Londonderry, Vermont, 05148
Offers the Korean "HO-MI" hand cultivator (curved trowel/cultivator),
well-designed and effective
-
Necessary Trading Co.
One Nature's Way
New Castle, Virginia, 24127-0305
FAX - 703/864-5186
Phone: 1-703-864-5103
"Natural Solutions for Farm, Home and Garden"
Wide range of supplies, books, fertilizers, tools and equipment -
catalogue headings include: books, composting equipment & supplies,
soil testing equipment & supplies, cover crop seeds, fertilizers
(their largest offering), pest management supplies and equipment,
wild bird supplies, animal care supplies and miscellaneous hand tools.
A major supplier, along with Zook & Ranck and Fertrell, for organic
farmers and market growers in the Eastern U.S.
-
HARMONY FARM SUPPLY [CAT - $2 deduct. from]
P.O. Box 451 [first order]
Graton, CA 95444
PEACEFUL VALLEY FARM SUPPLY [CAT - $2 deduct. from]
P.O. Box 2209 [first order]
Grass Valley, CA 95945
You might also call the folks at ATTRA (Appropriate Technology for Rural
Areas) at 1-800-346-9140. This free information service funded by the USDA
might have some other names & addresses for you.
-
E.G. GEIGER
1-800-4GEIGER
supplier of tools to the trade
-
From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 21:49:44 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:43:51 -0800
From: Brian Lo
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Herbs
Herbs
Herb production may be for culinary purposes (food flavoring), for
scents and fragrances (potpourris), for medicinal uses or others (dyes, dried
floral arrangements etc). Herb producers often grow for all these markets,
and some herbs may be used for all these purposes.
Some of the most popular culinary herbs grown commercially and by home
gardeners and hobbyists are: Basil, cilantro (coriander), chervil, dill,
oregano, mint, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme.
Information on herbs may be obtained from library references, seed
catalogues, special garden books and some public bulletins. Because of the
highly special nature of herb production, public bulletins are minimal and the
information contained in them is very general. For these reasons, this
document will only give a limited amount of general information on culinary
herbs or those that may be used for culinary and other uses. Medicinal herbs
are so specialized and often controversial that mention of their use will be
ancillary, and only if the herb is also used for culinary purposes.
Herbs most commonly grown in the Pacific Northwest are mostly adapted to
sunny or occasionally mostly sunny, warm locations. Those listed are general-
ly adapted to a wide range of soil types. Herbs need minimal irrigation,
particularly as they mature and their aromatic and flavor compounds are
developing.
Fertilizer requirements are basic, usually being limited to N, P, and K.
In some cases lime is needed to maintain soil pH near neutral, but most are
adapted to a wide range of soil pH. (5.5-7.5). Nitrogen is usually applied at
75-150 lbs./acre depending on the harvested product (leaves or seeds). Timing
of nitrogen applications is dependent on whether the species is annual,
biennial or perennial. Phosphorous is applied at 50-200 lbs./acre and
potassium at 0-150 lbs./acre depending on the above-mentioned characteristics
of the crop and soil test.
Few pesticides are registered for use in herb production. In some cases
special restrictions apply to the use of pesticides in products that will be
concentrated (distilled or processed in certain ways.
Harvest timing and equipment are also specific to the herbs being
produced. Often, considerable hand labor is required in production and
harvest operations, particularly when the marketable leafy portions of some
must be separated from stems, or where only the floral parts are required.
Small motorized clippers are often used as harvester aids. Sometimes, when
seeds are the marketable product, combines, often specially adapted, are used.
Where the distilled oil is the marketable product, there are those who provide
custom distillation using portable or stationary stills.
The harvested product often requires immediate special handling such as
drying, separation of leaves or seed, and temporary packaging storage to best
preserve its color, aroma, flavor, the integrity of its appearance and
sanitary condition.
The following is a tabular listing of some of the herbs that may be
produced in the Pacific Northwest, a brief description, their taxonomic
classification, common synonyms, general uses, and production considerations.
Five characteristics or cultural practices considerations are coded and
separated by backslash (/). The codes are represented as follows:
Life cycle: annual (a)/ biennial (b)/ perennial (p).
Established by: Seed (s)/ divisions (d)/ cuttings (c)/ or transplants (t).
Planting time: Spring (sp)/ after frost danger (af)/ fall (fa).
Plant size: as listed next.
Preferred site: Full sun (fs)/ part shade (ps)/ also a potted plant (pot).
Uses are represented by the column headings:
Flavorings (FLA), tea (TEA), fragrances (FRA), ornamental (ORN) and folk
medicine (MED):
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Angelica Angelica spp.
an herbacious aromatic herb.
about 50 spp. Sometimes planted for
bold ornamental effects.
Angelica Angelica archangelica
(b/s/fa/6-7'/ps, fs) x x x x
Anise Pipinella spp. Herbacious perennials
and sometimes annuals numbering about
75 species of which only anise is cul-
tivated.
Anise Pimpinella anisum
(a/s/sp/1.5'/ms, fs) x x x
Anise-hyssop/anise mint, Korean mint
Agastache foeniculum
(p/s/sp,fa/3-4'/fs) x x x x x
Balm (see lemon balm)
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location)* FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Basil Ocimum spp. About 60, little-known
species of which only basil is im-
portant. More than a dozen types are
grown for seasoning and their pleasing
fragrance. Only the mored common ones
are listed. Frost sensitive.
Basil, bush O. bascilicum
(a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x
Basil, cinnamon O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, Genovese/sweet Italian O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, purple ruffles O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/1.5'/fs) x x
Basil, licorice O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x
Basil, sweet Ocimum basilicum (main basil used)
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, lemon O. basilicum citrodorum
(Sweet Dani - new, true breeding variety
from Purdue University New Crops Center)
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x
Basil, dark opal O. basilicum purpurescence
(a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x x
Basil, sacred O. basilicum sanctum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x
Basil, spicy globe O. basilicum minimum
(a/s/sp-af/6"/fs, pot) x x x
Bee Balm (see Bergamot)
Bergamot/beebalm Monarda didyma
(p/d,s/sp/2'-4'/fs,ps) x x x
Borage Borago officinalis
(a/s,t/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Burnet salad Sanguisobia minor
(p/s/sp/1'/fs) x x
Calamintha (see Savory)
Calendula, pot marigold Calendula officinalis
both orange and yellow types available.
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x
Caraway Carum carvi
(a,b/s/sp,fa/2'-3'/fs) x x
Catnip Nepeta cataria
(p/s,t/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x x x x
Chamomile Matricaria recutita an important
medicinal plant.
Chamomile/German chamomile Matricaria recutita
(a/s,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Chamomile/Roman chamomile Chamaemelum nobile
(p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs) x x x x
Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/ps,fs) bolts easily x x x x
Chives Allium schoenoprasum
(p/s,d/sp/1'/fs,pot) x x
Chives/Chinese garlic/garlic chives
Allium tuberosum (p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs,pot) x x
Citronella (see lemongrass)
Cilantro Coriandrum sativum (the Spanish name
for coriander, grown for the fresh leaves);
bolts at high temperatures. Use bolting
resistant varieties, or grow during cool
weather.
(a/s/sp,af/1'-2'/fs,ps,pot) x x x
Coriander Coriandrum sativum (same as cilantro
but grown for its seed)
(a/s/sp/3'/fs) x x x
Cress, curly, garden, pepper-grass Lepidium sativum
(b/s/sp/6"/fs,pot) x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Cress, water Nasturtium officinale
(p/s/sp/6"/fs) x
Cress, winter/upland, Barbarea vulgaris
(b,s/sp,6"/fs,pot) x
Cumin Cuminum cyminum
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) like coriander x x
Dill Anethum graveolens
(a/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x
Fennel, Florence Foeniculum vulgare dulce
(perennial, but grown as an annual) Grown
for its bulb. Zefa fino (Royal Sluis)
best root type evaluated, and resistance
to bolting (Indiana). Days from seeding
to harvest range from 100 to 120.
(p,a/s/sp/3'-4'/fs) x x x
Fenugreek Trigonella foenum-graecum
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
Geranium, scented Pelargonium spp. Warm areas.
Several forms and hybrids include: Rose-
scented P. capitatum, nutmeg P. fragrans,
apple P. odoratissimum, lemon P. crispum,
pine-scented P. denticulatum, mint P.
tomentosum and others!
(p/c/sp/1'-3'/fs,pot) x x x x
Horehound, white Marrubium vulgare
(p/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Hyssop, blue Hyssopus officinalis
(p/s,c,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Lavender, true Lavandula vera, and more than 28
other species. Two main species, Lavandula
latifolia (spike, sweet, lavender) and
L. angustifolia (English/French lavender)
and their hybrids (some sterile) are used
in commerce.
(p/c,s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Lemongrass/citronella Cymbopogon sp., primarily
East Indian Cymbopogon flexusus, and West
Indian Cymbopogon citratus
Lemongrass
(p/d/sp/3'/fs,pot) not winter-hardy x x x x
Lemon Balm Melissa officinalis
(p/s,c,d/sp/1 1/2'-2'/fs) x x x x x
Lemon verbena Aloysia triphylla
(p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x x
Licorice Glycyrrhiza glabra
(p/c,d,/3'-5'/fs) x x
Lovage Levisticum officinale
(p/s,d/sp/3'-4'/fs,ps) x x
Marjoram, sweet Origanum majorana (see also
Oregano)
(p/s,t/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x
Mint Mentha sp.
Japanese mint M. arvensis var. piperescens x x x x x
Peppermint M.x M. piperita var. vulgaris x x x x x
or M. x M. piperita var. officinalis x x x x x
Bergamot mint M.x M. piperita var. citrata x x x x x
Pennyroyal, European M. pulegium x x x
or American Hedeoma pulegioides x x x
Corsican mint M. requienii x x x x x
Spearmint M. spicata x x x x x
Apple mint M. suaveolens x x x x x
Pineapple mint M. suaveolens var. variegata x x x x x
(p/s,c,d/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot)
Mustard, condiment Brassica sp.
black B. nigra x x
brown B. juncea x x
white B. alba x x
yellow mustard B. hirta x x
(a,b/s/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x
Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus
(p,a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs, pot) x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Oregano is of primarily two unrelated genera,
Origanum and Lippia. European oregano is
also call wild marjoram, winter marjoram,
oregano and organy, and is Origanum
vulgare. Greek oregano, also called winter
sweet marjoram, or pot marjoram is
Origanum heracleoticum (formaly O. hirtum).
Mexican oregano, also called Mexican sage,
origan, oregamon, wild marjoram, Mexican
marjoram or Mexican wild sage is Lippia
graveolens.
Oregano, European Origanum vulgare
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Oregano, Greek Origanum heracleoticum
(p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Oregano, Mexican Lippia graveolens (not in the
Labiatae family)
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Parsley, curly and Italian Petroselinum hortense
(b/s,t/sp/12"-18"/fs) x x x
Pennyroyal (see "mint" above)
Poppy Papaver somniferum seed and opium poppy;
P. orientale morphine-free medicinal poppy.
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis
(p/c,d,s,t/sp/2'-4'/fs,pot) x x x x
Saffron Crocus sativus
(p/d/sp/12"-18"/fs,ps) x x
Sage Salvia officinales, several types including
dwarf, mammoth, purple, golden, and tricolor.
Others are: Pineapple S. elegans, Mexican
S. leucantha, scarlet S. splendens, and
Clary S. sclarea (a biennial).
(p/d,c,s,t/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Savory Satureja sp. About 180 species. Aromatic
herbs and shrubs, border or pot-herb plants.
Warm regions. Two main types: Summer savory,
Satureja hortensis an annual and Winter or
creeping winter savory Satureja montana a
perennial. An evergreen perennial used
mainly for tea is Satureja douglasii.
(a,p/s,c,t/sp/12"-18"/fs,pot) x x x
Sesame Sesamum indicum. (for warm areas only)
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x
Spearmint (see "mint" above)
Tarragone, French Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa
Not winter-hardy. The related Russian
tarragon is more winter-hardy, but of
inferior quality.
(p/c/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot) x
Thyme, common, English, French, garden
Thymus vulgaris. Over 300 species
and their hybrids such as lemon thyme
T. x citriodorus.
(p/s,t/sp/2"-12"/fs,ps) x x x x
thyme, creeping T. serpyllum
(p/s,t/sp/2"-4/fs) x x
Valerian, garden heliotrope Valeriana officinalis
(p/c,d,s,t/fa/3'-4'/fs) x x x x
Wintergreen Gaultheria procumbens
(p/c,d,s/sp/4"-6"/ps,pot) x x
Woodruff, sweet Galium odoratum
(p/t/6"-12"/ps) x x x x x
HERBS BY MAIL
Seed and/or plants of the above-mentioned herbs are available from one or more
of the companies listed:
Abundant Life Seed Foundation, Box 772, Port Townsend, WA 98368
W. Atlee Burpee Co. 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974
Comstock, Ferre & Co. P O Box 125, 263 Main Street, Wethersfield, CT 06109
Gurney Seed & Nursery Co. 1448 Page Street, Yankton, SD 57079
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Albion, ME 04910
J. W. Jung Seed Co. 335 S. High Street, Box H81, Randolph, WI 53956
Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 North Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321
George W. Park Seed Co. P O Box 31, 398 Cokesbury Rd. Greenwood, SC 29647
Redwood City Seed Co. P O Box 361, Redwood City, CA 94064
Taylor's Herb Gardens. 1535 Lone Oak Road, Vista, CA 92084. 619/727-3485
Thompson & Moran Inc. P O Box 100, Farmingdale, NJ 07727
PEST CONTROL FOR HERBS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti-
vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources
reduces risk from "seed born" diseases.
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions in
the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended
as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable
producers. Address comments or questions to your
County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour,
Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 9733l
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
Article 33034 of rec.gardens:
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From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: LIST OF HUMMINGBIRD PLANTS
Date: 19 May 1994 15:23:28 -0700
Organization: Stanford University
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I finally found my plant list of things I used to grow from
Hummingbird gardens. This is not my huge catalog list but is a
pretty good reference of plants easy to grow that are good for
hummingbirds
PLANT LIST, SEPT. 1988
All 1 gal plants $5.00
Abelia floribunda MEXICAN ABELIA
Abutilon megapotamicum FLOWERING MAPLE
A. hybrids
Aloe species
Anigozanthus flavidus KANGAROO PAW
Aquilegia eximia SUMMER COLUMBINE
*Aquilegia formosa WESTERN COLUMBINE
Asclepias curravasica MILKWEED
Beloperone guttata SHRIMP PLANT
Bouvardia glaberrima SMOOTH BOUVARDIA
B. ternifolia SCARLET BOUVARDIA
Brunsfelsia nyctaginoides
Buddleia davidii BUTTERFLY BUSH
Campsis radicans TRUMPET VINE
Cestrum elegans
C. elegans smithii
Columnea species
Cuphea chileae
C. hyssopifolia
C. micropetala
C. minniata
C. platycentra
Dicliptera suberecta
*Diplacus auranticaus STICKY MONKKEY FLOWER
*Diplacus puniceus RED MONKEY FLOWER
Fuchsia arborescens
F. chang
F. encliandra
F. fanfare
F. lycioides
F. magellanica
F. magellanica molinae
F. serratifolia
F. thymifolia
F. 'tincta'
*Galvezia speciosa BUSH ISLAND SNAPDRAGON
Grevillia canberra
Grevillia constance
Grevillia Robyn Gordon
Heuchera sanguinea CORAL BELLS
*Ipmopsis aggregata SKYROCKET, SCARLET GILIA
*<.i+>California Native
Article 26702 of rec.gardens:
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From: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU (John Heim)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.birds
Subject: Landscaping for Wildlife (Shrubs & Vines)
Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:07:41 GMT
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Landscaping for Wildlife
Shrubs and Vines
Below is a report from a database I've been putting together of plants
useful in attracting wildlife to your yard. Right now I am working on
planting some shrubs and/or vines in my yard so that's all I've included
so far. Eventually I intend to add trees and both annual and perennial
non-woody plants.
Much of the information below is from documents sent to me by Christine
Quinn. Also very useful was Walter E. Shultz's book "How to Attract,
House and Feed Birds". Most of the information on growing these plants
is from the J.W. Jung Seed & Nursery Co. catalog and from "The Readers
Digest Complete Book of the Garden"
The prices listed below are from the Jung catalog unless otherwise noted.
I've included the price in my database primarily for my own benefit
because I intend to order from Jung this year. I've included it here
because I thought you might find it useful as well. I have no affiliation
with Jung but I have order from them a lot in the past and have always
been happy.
Any corrections or additions you might have will be appreciated.
Species: Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist, w drain
Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: JUN Berries: OCT Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Robin, bluebird, thrushes, catbird, vireo, flickers
Notes:
Species: Barberry, Japanese (Berberis thunbergii )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: 4+ Height: 3-6 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 7.95
Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, sparrows
Notes: Price is for 3 plants. "Thorns provide excellent cover and
nesting." - Shultz
Species: Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Sandy
Zones: 3+ Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: 75 species
Notes: "Best food producer in Easter states." - Shultz
Species: Bittersweet (Celastrus loesneri )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 20 ft vine
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds:
Price: 4.55
Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds
Notes: Planting 2 or more will give better assurance of fruiting.
Species: Blackberry (Rubus species )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drained
Zones: 3+ Height: 4-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: 97 bird species
Notes: Price is for 3 plants.
Species: Blackhaw (Viburnum prunifolium )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Moist
Zones: Height: 20 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Mockingbird, waxwings, thrushes
Notes:
Species: Blueberry (Vaccinium species )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist acid
Zones: 5+ Height: 2-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Blubirds, thrushes, other songbirds
Notes: Some varieties hardy to zone 3.
Species: Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica )
Location: Soil: Dry
Zones: Height: 12 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, finches, thrashers, waxwings
Notes: "Good hedge" - Shultz
Species: Burning bush (Euonymus alata )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 5+ Height: 4-5 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: DEC Seeds: YES
Price: 6.95
Species attracted: Songbirds, pheasants
Notes: Needs pruning for best results.
Species: Butterfly Bush (Buddleis davidii )
Location: Full sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 5+ Height: 2-8 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: NO Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Hummingbirds
Notes: Blue, pink or white flowers.
Species: Cardinal Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata )
Location: Soil:
Zones: 4+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price: 2.95
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Coralberry (Symphoricarpus doore )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 5+ Height: 3-4 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds
Notes:
Species: Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster species )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 3+ Height: 3-6 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Mockingbird, finches, and waxwings
Notes: Price is for 3 plants
Species: Cranberry, American (Viburnum trilobum )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Cardinals, waxwings, thrushes, finches, woodpeckers
Notes:
Species: Current, Red (Ribes species )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 2-3 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price: 3.95
Species attracted: Catbird, jays, magpie, and robins
Notes: Not compatable with white pine.
Species: Dogwood (Cornus sericea )
Location: Sun Soil: Moist, wet
Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: JAN Seeds:
Price: 4.25
Species attracted: Catbird, downy woodpecker, thrushes, and finches
Notes:
Species: Elderberry (Sambucus species )
Location: Sun shade Soil: Well drained
Zones: 3-9 Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: NOV Seeds:
Price: 6.95
Species attracted: 115 birds
Notes: Price is for 2 plants. One plant alone will not bear fruit.
Species: Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drained
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: SEP Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Waxwings, mockingbirds, and thrushes
Notes:
Species: Greenbrier ( )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Holly, Inkberry (Ilex glabra )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist
Zones: 5+ Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Chickadee, titmouse, bobwhite, bluebird, robin,
catbird
Notes:
Species: Holly, Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium )
Location: Shade Soil: Moist acid
Zones: 5+ Height: 4 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Not a true holly.
Species: Honeysuckle (Lonicera tatarica )
Location: Sun, part shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: MAY Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 3.95
Species attracted: Hummingbirds, songbirds
Notes:
Species: Huckleberry, black ( )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price: 1.10
Species attracted: Grosbeaks, towhees, bluebirds, robins, chickadees,
catbirds
Notes: Price is for seed packet.
Species: Juniper (Juniperus chimemsis )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 2+ Height: 2-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Dense foliage provides cover.
Species: Lilac (Syringa species )
Location: Full sun Soil: Neutral
Zones: 3+ Height: 10-15 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Butterflies
Notes:
Species: Matrimony vine (Lycium halimifolium )
Location: Sun Soil: Any
Zones: Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: "Strong spines provide excellent cover" - Shultz
Species: Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 25 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, songbirds
Notes: Suckers will form thickets.
Species: Pasture rose (Rosa carolina )
Location: Sun Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 3 ft
Cover: Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: 40 species
Notes: "Strong spines provide best possible protection." - Shultz
Species: Privet, Amur (Ligustrum amurense )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Not wet
Zones: 3+ Height: 6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 9.95
Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, butterflies
Notes: Price is for 10 plants.
Species: Quince, flowering (Chaenomeles japonica )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Hummingbirds
Notes:
Species: Raspberry (Red, Blk) (Rubus species )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: 2+ Height: 4-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: JUN Seeds:
Price: 6.50
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Price is for 5 plants. Will form dense thicket.
Species: Sand Cherry ( )
Location: Soil: Sandy
Zones: Height: 3 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadens )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3-7 Height: 10-20 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: JUL Seeds:
Price: 5.98
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Price is from Henry Fields Seed Co.
Species: Snowberry (Symphoricarpos hybri )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 4+ Height: 4-5 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUN Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Spirea, Blue Mist (Caryopteris incana )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Butterflies
Notes:
Species: Sumac, Cut Leaf (Rhus typhina )
Location: Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted:
Notes:
Species: Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Also called American Ivy. "Perhaps best producer of natural food
for birds, plant wherever possible." - Shultz
Species: Winterberry (Ilex verticillata )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Withe rod (Viburnum cassinoides )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds (35 species)
Notes:
Species: Yew, Japanese (Taxus species )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: NO Seeds: YES
Price:
Species attracted: Robin, mockingbird, sparrow
Notes:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Latin pronounciation (was reading plant names)
Date: 21 Apr 93 20:37:59 -0600
Dr. K's guide to botanical Latin, with profuse apologies to Wm. T.Stearn,
from whom I cribbed a lot of it.
1. Latin words are divided into syllables. There is one vowel per
syllable, with the exception of diphthongs like ae, au, ei, eu, oi
and ui.
2. To determine where the accent falls in a word, you must divide it
into syllables. If there is a long vowel in the penult, (the next-
to-last syllable), the penult gets the accent. (au-STRA-lus, AL-bus).
3. If the penult has a short vowel, the accent goes on the syllable
before the penult, the antepenult. (FLO-ri-dus, la-ti-FO-li-a)
4. Diphthongs are treated as long vowels.
5. In Latin, if two vowels that do not form a diphthong come together,
the first vowel is short: CAR-ne-us, ME-di-us
6. In words of Greek origin, the opposite holds: gi-gan-TE-us.
7. Watch out for the -inus ending. The i is long in some cases, like
al-PIN-us, but short in others: se-RO-ti-nus. Words of Greek
derivation usually have the short i in an -inus ending.
8. Best way to find out where the accent belongs is to consult a
decent Latin dictionary, or a good flora like Gray's Manual.
If the stresses are indicated by a ` (grave), the syllable has
a short vowel. If the syllable is accented with a ' it has
a long vowel.
9. There are usually some minor accents earlier in the word if it
has a bunch of syllables: put them in reasonable places,
usually every other syllable.... rosmariniflorus is
rose'-mar-in'-i-FLOR-us.
10. You have your choice of pronounciations of letters. Stearn
gives "reformed academic" ("classical") and "traditional English"
which is next door to my church latin.
classical traditional
long a father fate
short a apart fat
ae as ai in aisle as ea in meat
au as ou in house as aw in bawl
c cat K before a, o, u (cat)
S before e, i, y (center)
ch in greek words as K or as k-h k or ch
long e they me
short e pet pet
ei rein height
g go G before a, o, u (go)
J before e, i, y (gem)
long i machine ice
short i pit pit
consonant i "y" as in yellow j
ng finger finger
long o note note
short o not not
oe as oi in toil as ee in bee
ph as p or p-h if possible f
r always trilled (how do you trill???)
s sit, gas sit, gas
t table, native t at beginning, but like
ti in nation in middle
long u brute brute
short u full tub
ui as the French "oui" ruin
v (consonant u) W V
long y u as in French pur as long i in cipher
short y as in French du as y in cynical
If you're a true "church latinist", "cie" is "ch", not "s" or "k"
Now, as to pronouncing names that are stolen from other languages or
were once peoples' names, you're kinda on your own. Try to get it
to an approximation of the original language OR try to come up with
something that doesn't land with a dull thud on the ear.
"Warszeiczella" can be rendered "var-she-vi-CHEL-la".
One other problem. -ii or -iae endings can be tricky, since
if you apply the penult/antepenult rule, you need to put the
accent on the last syllable of the latinized personal name, which is
usually where it doesn't belong. So people cut some slack on that
rule when dealing with -ii and -iae endings.
Finally, words of wisdom from Stearn:
"Botanical Latin is essentially a written language, but the scientific
names of plants often occur in speech. How they are pronounced really
matters little provided they sound pleasant and are understood by all
concerned..."
Ah-men! Dona nobis pacem! (at least on this topic!)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Latin pronounciation (was reading plant names)
Date: 21 Apr 93 20:37:59 -0600
Dr. K's guide to botanical Latin, with profuse apologies to Wm. T.Stearn,
from whom I cribbed a lot of it.
1. Latin words are divided into syllables. There is one vowel per
syllable, with the exception of diphthongs like ae, au, ei, eu, oi
and ui.
2. To determine where the accent falls in a word, you must divide it
into syllables. If there is a long vowel in the penult, (the next-
to-last syllable), the penult gets the accent. (au-STRA-lus, AL-bus).
3. If the penult has a short vowel, the accent goes on the syllable
before the penult, the antepenult. (FLO-ri-dus, la-ti-FO-li-a)
4. Diphthongs are treated as long vowels.
5. In Latin, if two vowels that do not form a diphthong come together,
the first vowel is short: CAR-ne-us, ME-di-us
6. In words of Greek origin, the opposite holds: gi-gan-TE-us.
7. Watch out for the -inus ending. The i is long in some cases, like
al-PIN-us, but short in others: se-RO-ti-nus. Words of Greek
derivation usually have the short i in an -inus ending.
8. Best way to find out where the accent belongs is to consult a
decent Latin dictionary, or a good flora like Gray's Manual.
If the stresses are indicated by a ` (grave), the syllable has
a short vowel. If the syllable is accented with a ' it has
a long vowel.
9. There are usually some minor accents earlier in the word if it
has a bunch of syllables: put them in reasonable places,
usually every other syllable.... rosmariniflorus is
rose'-mar-in'-i-FLOR-us.
10. You have your choice of pronounciations of letters. Stearn
gives "reformed academic" ("classical") and "traditional English"
which is next door to my church latin.
classical traditional
long a father fate
short a apart fat
ae as ai in aisle as ea in meat
au as ou in house as aw in bawl
c cat K before a, o, u (cat)
S before e, i, y (center)
ch in greek words as K or as k-h k or ch
long e they me
short e pet pet
ei rein height
g go G before a, o, u (go)
J before e, i, y (gem)
long i machine ice
short i pit pit
consonant i "y" as in yellow j
ng finger finger
long o note note
short o not not
oe as oi in toil as ee in bee
ph as p or p-h if possible f
r always trilled (how do you trill???)
s sit, gas sit, gas
t table, native t at beginning, but like
ti in nation in middle
long u brute brute
short u full tub
ui as the French "oui" ruin
v (consonant u) W V
long y u as in French pur as long i in cipher
short y as in French du as y in cynical
If you're a true "church latinist", "cie" is "ch", not "s" or "k"
Now, as to pronouncing names that are stolen from other languages or
were once peoples' names, you're kinda on your own. Try to get it
to an approximation of the original language OR try to come up with
something that doesn't land with a dull thud on the ear.
"Warszeiczella" can be rendered "var-she-vi-CHEL-la".
One other problem. -ii or -iae endings can be tricky, since
if you apply the penult/antepenult rule, you need to put the
accent on the last syllable of the latinized personal name, which is
usually where it doesn't belong. So people cut some slack on that
rule when dealing with -ii and -iae endings.
Finally, words of wisdom from Stearn:
"Botanical Latin is essentially a written language, but the scientific
names of plants often occur in speech. How they are pronounced really
matters little provided they sound pleasant and are understood by all
concerned..."
Ah-men! Dona nobis pacem! (at least on this topic!)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
. 6 .. archives Q, .cap INDEX X richters `[ pictures l programs _ faqs ~4 incoming SWSBM "C
Marco_Bleeker p Howie_Brounstein + Fragrant_Garden database 7
neat_stuff README allfiles.txt
readme.txt . .. pond.faq fertilizer.faq tomato-problem.faq From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 21:51:22 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:46:10 -0800
From: Brian Lo
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Okra
OKRA
Abelmoschus esculentus
Okra is not well adapted to Oregon climatic conditions, requiring high
soil temperatures and high day and night temperatures for best production.
Okra may be grown in the warmer parts of the state when special efforts are
made to provide the proper environmental conditions. This would include the
use of plastic mulch and wind breaks to improve temperatures around the plant
and in the soil.
VARIETIES
Green types:
Blondy, 48-50 days, dwarf plant 3'high, spineless, ribbed, lime-green.
Annie Oakley, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall. Prelude, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall.
Clemson Spineless, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods 5-6"long, large diameter,
most commonly available variety. Emerald, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods to
8"long, small diameter. Perkins Mammoth Long Pod, 60 days, plants 6 to 10'
tall, pods 7-8" long, intense green.
Red types:
Red Okra; 55 to 65 days, 3 to 4 feet tall, bushy plants with 6 to 7"
pods. Red Velvet; similar to Red Okra.
SEED COMPANIES
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
SOIL
Well drained, sandy soils are preferred. Addition of manure or other
organic material is usually beneficial on such light textured soils. Okra
grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils, pH 6.5-7.5.
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Okra is a tropical plant requiring warm growing conditions. Commercial
production is recommended only in the warmest portions of the state. Night
temperatures should be above 55 F for good growth.
Minimum soil temperature for germination is 60 F. Optimum soil tempera-
ture range is 75-90 F.
PLASTIC ROW COVERS AND MULCHES
Black plastic mulch will increase soil temperatures, control weeds, and
conserve moisture, increasing yield and earliness. A new generation of plastic
mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming that is
intermediate between black plastic and clear film. These films are called IRT
(infra-red transmitting) films. They are more expensive than black or clear
films, but may be cost-effective where soil warming is important.
Spun bonded polyester and polypropylene, and perforated polyethylene row
covers may be used for 4-8 weeks immediately after transplanting. Covers
should be removed when plants begin to flower to permit proper pollination.
Row covers can increase heat unit accumulation by 2-3 times over ambient. Up
to 4 F of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil temperatures
and root growth can also be increased under row covers as are early yields,
and in some cases total yields.
SEEDING
Okra seed numbers approximately 8,000 per pound. Use approximately 8-12
lbs. seed/acre. Plant 1" deep, 4-6 seeds/foot of row. Thin to desired spa-
cing when plants are 3" tall.
Germination many be enhanced by soaking seeds several (4-6 hours) hours
or overnight immediately before planting. The seed will need to be surface
dried for mechanical planting.
SPACING
Rows 36-48" apart, 12-24" between plants. Tall or spiny cultivars
require wide spacing.
TRANSPLANTING
Growers interested in early fresh market or in short growing season
areas may find it profitable to transplant. Sow seeds in 2" pots or cell
packs, 3 seeds per pot, 1/4" deep, 4-5 weeks ahead of transplanting. Thin to
1 plant per pot or cell.
FERTILIZER
The following are general recommendations. Before planting apply:
Nitrogen: 30-50 lb./acre applied at planting. Side dress with an
additional 35-50 lbs. N/acre when plants are 8-10" tall, or use 25 lb./acre
nitrogen after first fruit set and again after 4-6 weeks at the same rate.
Adequate nitrogen is necessary to ensure a long harvest period, however
excessive rates are to be avoided as they can cause okra to become excessively
vegetative.
Phosphorus: 50-100 lbs./acre, all applied at, or before planting.
IRRIGATION
Okra requires adequate soil moisture throughout its entire growing
period if optimum growth and yield are to be obtained. Avoid heavy early
irrigations as these can cool the soil and slow development.
HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE
Okra pods should be harvested while still tender and before the seeds
are half grown. This is usually 5-6 days after flowering. Pods with tips
that will bend between the fingers without breaking are too tough for use as
fresh fruit. Consumer preference demands pods 2 1/2"-3 1/2" in length. Okra
should be harvested about 3 times each week. Regular picking increases yield.
Remove and discard old pods from the plant as such pods will retard pod set
and reduce total yield. Under good conditions 300 to 400 lbs. might be
obtained per picking per acre. In the warmer, longer season areas of Oregon
(the Columbia and Snake River areas) okra might be harvested over a 50 to 60
day season.
Okra plants and pods may have small spines to which some people are
allergic. Pickers should wear gloves and long sleeved shirts as skin protec-
tion.
STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):
Hold okra at 45 to 50 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity. Okra deter-
iorates rapidly and is normally stored only briefly to hold for marketing or
processing. Large quantities are canned, frozen or brined. It has a very
high respiration rate at warm temperatures and should therefore be promptly
cooled to retard heating and subsequent deterioration.
Okra in good condition can be stored satisfactorily for 7 to 10 days at
45 to 50 F. At higher temperatures toughening, yellowing, and decay are
rapid. A relative humidity of 90 to 95 % is desirable to prevent shriveling.
At temperatures below 45 F okra is subject to chilling injury, which is
manifested by surface discoloration, pitting, and decay. Holding okra for 3
days at 32 F may cause sever pitting. Contact or to ice will cause water
spotting in 2 or 3 days.
Fresh okra bruises easily, the bruises blackening within a few hours. A
bleaching type of injury may also develop when okra is held in hampers for
more than 24 hours without refrigeration. Storage containers should permit
ventilation.
Prepackaging in perforated film is helpful. both to prevent wilting and
physical injury during handling. Results of a packaging study suggest that 5
to 10 % carbon dioxide in the atmosphere lengthens shelf life by about a week.
Higher concentrations of carbon dioxide caused off-flavors.
PACKAGING
Okra is shipped in bushel hampers or crates, holding 30 lb. net; 5/9
bushel crates, 18 lb. net; 12 quart baskets, 15-18 lb. net; or loose pack in
cartons or LA. lugs, 18 lb. net.
PEST CONTROL FOR OKRA
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti-
vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources
reduces risk from "seed born" diseases.
Use spacings and irrigations practices that minimize diseases and allow
for cultivation. Choose fields free of perennial weeds and where related
crops have not been grown for the previous three years to minimize problems
with diseases and weeds.
--------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
This information was adapted by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments or questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour
Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 9733l.
--------------------------------------------------
Subject: Old Roses
Date: 30 Mar 92 16:57:07 GMT
Here is a list of some of the main old rose varieties. I will follow it
up with a selection of roses from each group.
Species Roses
These plants are the ancestors of all of the roses. Species refers
to the plants as they have been found in the wild, un-changed and
un-hybridized. For the most part, species roses are single
petalled, and some are semi-double. The different varieties come
in yellow, pink, rose madder red, and white. They are also very
LARGE bushes, growing up to 50 feet or more. The Lady Banks rose
is an example of a species rose. Most of them only bloom once a
year.
Gallicas
The flowers of the gallicas are usually flat and fully double, the
bushes have few thorns, and they are easy to raise from seed. The
town of Provins, France, was for 600 years the center of a great
rose industry based on _R. gallica officinalis_ (Red Rose of
Lancaster) and some of its forms. This rose was believed to have
medicinal properties. The Empress Josephine collected gallica
roses for her garden in Malmaisson. Some of the roses in this
family date back to the 12th and 13th centurys. Most of them are
shades of rose madder and pink, and bloom only once in a season.
Damasks
This is the first old rose family to have ever-blooming flowers.
It is possible that this rose was brought to Europe by the Greek
traders in the main ports of the Mediterrainian between 800 and 600
B.C. The flowers are usually fully double, flowering in summer,
and then again in fall. They are said to be repeat bloomers,
instead of ever blooming. Their parentage is unknown, but it is
believed that they come from a cross of Rosa gallica and an
everblooming Asian species. An example of this rose family is
Autumn Damask, or "Quatre Saisons". The petals of this rose were
scattered under the feet of the Roman Emperors as they walked along
in public.
Centifolias
Centifolia means 'hundred petals', and these roses are the most
fully double of them all. The roses are very full, and the petals
divide into quarters within the flower. This rose dates back to
bout 410 B.C. These roses make good climbers. Most of the
centifolias bloom only once in spring.
Mosses
This large family of roses are called mosses because their stems
have thousands of tiny thorns on them, and even the flower bracts
are 'mossy' with thorns. The flowers are usually double, and bloom
in the spring. We had a moss rose, and the flowers were the most
intense pink/purple I have ever seen on any rose. It was beautful.
Portland
Developed in the middle of the 19th century, this rose family has
mostly ever-blooming or perpetual blooming roses. The first family
was produced in England at about 1800. The rose was named Duchess
of Portland, hence the name Portland roses. A good Portland rose
is Comte de Chambourd.
Bourbons
These roses came from a natural cross of a China rose and a damask
rose. The bushes are compact and the roses are fewer, but much
better flowers in the fall than the other rose families. This is
personally my favorite group of old roses. The flowers are very
double and globular shaped. They have a beautiful bloom in the
fall, and won't quit blooming until the frost kills them. Some
examples are Honorine de Brabant, La Reine Victoria, Madamme Isaac
Periere, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
China Roses
It was with the introduction of the China roses to Europe that true
ever-blooming roses were developed. Portlands, Bourbons, and
perhaps even Damasks were produced by crossing them with China
roses. Although not very popular in the garden, these roses are
very important to the history of rose culture.
Some Available Old Roses
Species Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Comte de Chambord double pink/lilac
Bourbon Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Honorine de Brabant double striped/lilac/white
Madame Isaac Pereire fully double rose madder
La Reine Victoria double, cupped med. pink
Boule de Neige double white
Madame Pierre Oger double pale pink
Souvenir de al Malmaison double/flat flesh pink
Ferdinand Pichard double red/white striped
Reine des Violettes double purple
Moss Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
General Kleber double palest pink
Shailer's White Moss double white
William Lobb double lilac
Centifolia Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tour de Malkoff double deep fushcia
Chapeau de Napoleon double pink
De Meaux double pale pink
Hybrid Musk Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Cornelia semi double pink
Ballerina single whtie & pink
Penelope semi double pale yellow
Nymphenburg semi double apricot pink
Rugosa Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Blanc Double de Coubert double white
Topaz Jewel double yellow
Reseraie de l'Hay doulbe med. pink
Linda Campbell double red
Alba single white
Fru Dagmar Hastrup single pink
Hansa double deep deep pink
Many of these may be found in Wayside Rose Catalog. Also, check your better
nurseries. Old roses are beginning to show up. I just found a good
speciman of "Souvenir de la Malmaison" for $7!!!!! What a find!
Re: Favorite Old Roses, Climbing Roses (rec.gardens)
Date: 5 Mar 92 18:24:28 GMT
I have just planted two old climbing roses I am very excited about -
SOMBREUIL: a tea rose, "capable of reaching great heights in a
sheltered garden," and whose "fragrance, shiny dark green foliage,
and spectacular creamy white flowers make this one of the most
beautiful and useful of all roses."
ZE'PHIRIN DROUHIN: a semi-double pink Bourbon, popular because the
canes are (really!) thornless.
Both of these are popular in the South, so should do well in the
Central Valley, but may be too tender for northern gardens. Also,
DORTMUND: a single red flower with white eye, said to have holly-
like foliage and good heat tolerance. I'd try it if I had more room.
All are highly rated and fairly disease resistant, though ZD may be
subject to mildew. The first two are available from Smith & Hawken,
the other is stocked by Berkeley Horticultural or try the usual suspects
(I can provide a list of old rose nurseries, if there is any demand.)
rec.gardens:
Subject: Re: Climbing Roses
Date: 6 Mar 92 01:21:20 GMT
>I'm looking for a good (actually I would love a *great*) climbing rose and
>was wonderingif anyone out there has a favorite variety
(You *do* know that no roses actually climb, like ivy, but some just throw
out extra-long canes ...)
Rosa moschata, R. moschata semiplena
Musk roses species, with single or fluffy semi-double blossoms respectively.
Grows to 50' if you let it. One longish blooming season in NJ, may be longer
out here (in Sac). Flowers are white. Scent is amazing.
Alchymist (occasionally Alchemist)
Buff yellow very full and quartered blossoms, with more or less pink in them
depending on how cold it is during bud formation. I'd expect no pink out
here. Grows to 20' in NJ that I've seen. Very long blooming season but not
quite "recurrent". Nice scent but not overpowering.
Rosa glauca (was R. rubrifolia)
Species rose listed as stopping at 8', but there is/was a specimen in WI that
stopped growing *up* at about 12' and thenceforth grew out, maybe 20' total.
No scent. Flowers are a pretty pink, single, narrowish petals so the blossom
is kind of star-shaped. Yellow stamens. The leaves are steel-blue with red
edging, and the stems and canes are claret. Flowering season is short, but
you don't grow it for the flowers.
Applejack
Grows to 10' or so. Recurrent. Single pretty pink flowers, with fatter
petals than R. glauca, so that it looks like a rose, not like a star. Flower
is unscented but foliage smells of apples. Drops petals neatly so the bush
is always pretty. This one is kind of hard to find, but is a real sweetheart.
La Belle Sultane
Grows to 10' or so. Medium blooming season. Single purple blossoms, shading
to lighter crimson inward, with bright yellow stamens. Nothing else remotely
like her, and a beauty.
If you'd like to see R. glauca, Alchymist, or La Belle Sultane, contact me
this summer or next year: I'm planting all three weekend after next, UPS
permitting. ;0)
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 10 Jan 92 20:27:49 GMT
TK> >>There's a rose source in Texas that grows the old roses
TK> >>onto their own root system.
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
telephone: (409) 836-9051
They offer a color/b&w catalog for $2.00, containing a broad selection of
old garden roses, each well described, with a good deal of historical and
cultural information. Roses are grown on their own roots, selectedd for
fragrance and long bloom in Zones 6 and above. They also offer books for
rosarians. The minimum order is $10 and they also will ship to Canada.
rec.gardens:
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 11 Jan 92 06:10:40 GMT
The catalog ($3) from
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 Riverside Dr NE
St. Paul, OR 97137
comes highly recommended. I'm just sending away for mine, so I haven't seen
it yet, but one hardcore antique rose freak I know said he almost died when
he got his. He's not impressed easily.
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 27 Jan 92 22:37:15 GMT
I purchased the bare-root plants by mail-order from:
ROSES OF YESTERDAY & TODAY
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076-0398
(408) 724-3537 or 2755
The informative catalog is $3 and describes the plants very well. However,
they will only mail the plants between the 1st of January until the end of
May. NOTE: When I purchased roses from them, they were all grafted onto
various rootstocks. Their is a mail-order source that sells UNGRAFTED
bare-root antique roses. It is:
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
(409) 836-9051
Their catalog is $2 and they also ship only from Jan. 1 to May 30. ALL
roses are grown on their own roots, selected for fragrance and long bloom
in Zone 6 and above.
Today, I learned of two additional sources for Old Garden Roses. They are:
VINTAGE GARDENS
3003 Pleasant Hill Road
Sebastapol, CA 95472
(1992 catalog - $1; 1993 catalog - $2)
and
HEIRLOOM OLD GARDEN ROSES
24062 N.E. Riverside
St. Paul, OR 97137
catalog - $3
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 29 Jan 92 19:05:34 GMT
(With Pickering's 1991-2 catalog at my elbow ...)
A number of old-fashioned roses do bloom recurrently. "Recurrently" is a
slightly strange word in the rose world. A "non-recurrent bloomer" blooms
for a month or two in June and July. A "recurrent bloomer" blooms then and
also at other times during the season. This may range from the February-to-
November bloomers to a rose, whose main season bloom having been religiously
dead-headed (the spent blooms cut off before they can make hips), will spit
out a couple more blooms in September or so. Bearing that definition in
mind, here's a quick survey of old-fashioned roses, with notes of *my* parti-
cular favorites:
Polyanthas originated about 1875. They are parents of the mini-roses. Most
are low growing, have large clusters of individual smallish blooms, and are
recurrent. I don't have any personal experience with these. The Fairy is
an extremely popular variety, blooming continuously with shell-pink flowers.
You might even be able to get The Fairy at local nurseries.
Hybrid Perpetuals originated about 1840. As their name implies, they are
among the first recurrent varieties. Their blossom production tends to be
a tad spotty after the initial flush. Mabel Morrison has an upright habit
and opaque white gardenia-like roses on extremely short stems. The blossoms
sit right in the leaves. Depending on the temperature at a crucial time in
the bud formation, some blossoms might be very lightly flushed with pink,
which results in a bush with some white roses and some very very pale pink
roses, or even a rose with a few very pale pink streaks in the whiteness.
Unfortunately, she has no scent.
Shrub roses don't fit any category very well, and many are quite modern
(which is why I use the term "old-fashioned" instead of "antique"). Many
are recurrent. Alchymist is listed as growing to 6', but every one I've
grown has had no problem sending canes out several yards. Depending on the
climate, the blossoms may be an antique gold or have pink-peach highlights
(the colder the winter, the more colorful the flower). The individual blooms
are enormous and quite fragrant. It is listed as non-recurrent, but in NJ
its season was close to three months.
Rosa rugosa is a species native to Japan, and many attractive hybrids are
mostly R. rugosa. The outstanding characteristics are coarse, heavily
"quilted" leaves, large, attractive hips, extreme winter hardiness, resis-
tance to disease, abundant thorns, continuous bloom, and tolerance of salt
(for beachside gardens). Dr. Eckener compares favorably with Alchymist in
vigor of growth. The blossoms are zoned yellow and bright pink, and are
semi-double (8-20 or so petals). Dr. E. is quite fragrant, and has truly
awesome thorns. Frau Dagmar Hartopp is a gem -- single, silky silver-pink
blossoms, and relatively low growing.
Alba roses are true antiques: Alba maxima was known in 1450. They are all
non-recurrent. They have bluish-grey leaves and the blossoms are either
white or pale pink. They are also winter hardy and fragrant. Madame Legras
de St. Germain has small white blossoms with just a hint of lemon well in-
side. She grows rather low and is literally smothered in blossoms in June
and July. The blossom petals are tiny and very abundant, and toss scent off
in buckets.
Bourbon roses were created accidentally as a cross between one of the
antiques (I forget which) and Rosa chinensis, which had just been imported
from (guess) China. R. chinensis is very tender, and some Bourbons are also
rather tender, needing the cosseting one has to give to hybrid teas. How-
ever, they have enough more of their antique genes to resist disease much
better than the H.T.'s. Some are recurrent, some not. I haven't grown any
of these yet, not having lived in a place before now where I wouldn't have
to baby them. But this year ...!
Centifolia roses are the big "cabbage" roses you see on old wallpaper. They
are very winter hardy, not recurrent, and extremely fragrant. The ones that
Pickering lists range from light to dark pink and mauve to scarlet and dark
purple. For some reason I haven't grown any of these either -- quite a gap!
Rosa chinensis varieties are quite tender, but recurrent. They tend to be
martyrs to black spot. Also, R. chinensis has contributed yellow to the
rose palette. As with the Bourbons, until this year I haven't lived where
I could grow these easily, so have no experience with them. Tipo Ideale,
also called Rosa Mutabilis, blooms pale yellow, and as the blossom ages, the
color darkens through orange to dark red. I've seen this rose in public
gardens and it is spectacular. I imagine the climber Joseph's Coat, whose
blossoms go through the same changes, has lots of the Rosa Mutabilis genes
in it. Archduke Charles blooms white, and the blossoms darken through pink
to a purplish red. A blooming bush of Charles is also quite stunning, and I
love to see someone else growing it. :o) The "Green Rose", Rosa chinensis
viridiflora, does not have real petals: the flower bracts are extended and
form green and brown blossom-like growths. I haven't seen this in person but
[rest of message missing]
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 10 Jan 92 20:27:49 GMT
TK> >>There's a rose source in Texas that grows the old roses
TK> >>onto their own root system.
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
telephone: (409) 836-9051
They offer a color/b&w catalog for $2.00, containing a broad selection of
old garden roses, each well described, with a good deal of historical and
cultural information. Roses are grown on their own roots, selectedd for
fragrance and long bloom in Zones 6 and above. They also offer books for
rosarians. The minimum order is $10 and they also will ship to Canada.
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 11 Jan 92 06:10:40 GMT
The catalog ($3) from
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 Riverside Dr NE
St. Paul, OR 97137
comes highly recommended. I'm just sending away for mine, so I haven't seen
it yet, but one hardcore antique rose freak I know said he almost died when
he got his. He's not impressed easily.
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 27 Jan 92 22:37:15 GMT
I purchased the bare-root plants by mail-order from:
ROSES OF YESTERDAY & TODAY
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076-0398
(408) 724-3537 or 2755
The informative catalog is $3 and describes the plants very well. However,
they will only mail the plants between the 1st of January until the end of
May. NOTE: When I purchased roses from them, they were all grafted onto
various rootstocks. Their is a mail-order source that sells UNGRAFTED
bare-root antique roses. It is:
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
(409) 836-9051
Their catalog is $2 and they also ship only from Jan. 1 to May 30. ALL
roses are grown on their own roots, selected for fragrance and long bloom
in Zone 6 and above.
Today, I learned of two additional sources for Old Garden Roses. They are:
VINTAGE GARDENS
3003 Pleasant Hill Road
Sebastapol, CA 95472
(1992 catalog - $1; 1993 catalog - $2)
and
HEIRLOOM OLD GARDEN ROSES
24062 N.E. Riverside
St. Paul, OR 97137
catalog - $3
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 29 Jan 92 19:05:34 GMT
(With Pickering's 1991-2 catalog at my elbow ...)
A number of old-fashioned roses do bloom recurrently. "Recurrently" is a
slightly strange word in the rose world. A "non-recurrent bloomer" blooms
for a month or two in June and July. A "recurrent bloomer" blooms then and
also at other times during the season. This may range from the February-to-
November bloomers to a rose, whose main season bloom having been religiously
dead-headed (the spent blooms cut off before they can make hips), will spit
out a couple more blooms in September or so. Bearing that definition in
mind, here's a quick survey of old-fashioned roses, with notes of *my* parti-
cular favorites:
Polyanthas originated about 1875. They are parents of the mini-roses. Most
are low growing, have large clusters of individual smallish blooms, and are
recurrent. I don't have any personal experience with these. The Fairy is
an extremely popular variety, blooming continuously with shell-pink flowers.
You might even be able to get The Fairy at local nurseries.
Hybrid Perpetuals originated about 1840. As their name implies, they are
among the first recurrent varieties. Their blossom production tends to be
a tad spotty after the initial flush. Mabel Morrison has an upright habit
and opaque white gardenia-like roses on extremely short stems. The blossoms
sit right in the leaves. Depending on the temperature at a crucial time in
the bud formation, some blossoms might be very lightly flushed with pink,
which results in a bush with some white roses and some very very pale pink
roses, or even a rose with a few very pale pink streaks in the whiteness.
Unfortunately, she has no scent.
Shrub roses don't fit any category very well, and many are quite modern
(which is why I use the term "old-fashioned" instead of "antique"). Many
are recurrent. Alchymist is listed as growing to 6', but every one I've
grown has had no problem sending canes out several yards. Depending on the
climate, the blossoms may be an antique gold or have pink-peach highlights
(the colder the winter, the more colorful the flower). The individual blooms
are enormous and quite fragrant. It is listed as non-recurrent, but in NJ
its season was close to three months.
Rosa rugosa is a species native to Japan, and many attractive hybrids are
mostly R. rugosa. The outstanding characteristics are coarse, heavily
"quilted" leaves, large, attractive hips, extreme winter hardiness, resis-
tance to disease, abundant thorns, continuous bloom, and tolerance of salt
(for beachside gardens). Dr. Eckener compares favorably with Alchymist in
vigor of growth. The blossoms are zoned yellow and bright pink, and are
semi-double (8-20 or so petals). Dr. E. is quite fragrant, and has truly
awesome thorns. Frau Dagmar Hartopp is a gem -- single, silky silver-pink
blossoms, and relatively low growing.
Alba roses are true antiques: Alba maxima was known in 1450. They are all
non-recurrent. They have bluish-grey leaves and the blossoms are either
white or pale pink. They are also winter hardy and fragrant. Madame Legras
de St. Germain has small white blossoms with just a hint of lemon well in-
side. She grows rather low and is literally smothered in blossoms in June
and July. The blossom petals are tiny and very abundant, and toss scent off
in buckets.
Bourbon roses were created accidentally as a cross between one of the
antiques (I forget which) and Rosa chinensis, which had just been imported
from (guess) China. R. chinensis is very tender, and some Bourbons are also
rather tender, needing the cosseting one has to give to hybrid teas. How-
ever, they have enough more of their antique genes to resist disease much
better than the H.T.'s. Some are recurrent, some not. I haven't grown any
of these yet, not having lived in a place before now where I wouldn't have
to baby them. But this year ...!
Centifolia roses are the big "cabbage" roses you see on old wallpaper. They
are very winter hardy, not recurrent, and extremely fragrant. The ones that
Pickering lists range from light to dark pink and mauve to scarlet and dark
purple. For some reason I haven't grown any of these either -- quite a gap!
Rosa chinensis varieties are quite tender, but recurrent. They tend to be
martyrs to black spot. Also, R. chinensis has contributed yellow to the
rose palette. As with the Bourbons, until this year I haven't lived where
I could grow these easily, so have no experience with them. Tipo Ideale,
also called Rosa Mutabilis, blooms pale yellow, and as the blossom ages, the
color darkens through orange to dark red. I've seen this rose in public
gardens and it is spectacular. I imagine the climber Joseph's Coat, whose
blossoms go through the same changes, has lots of the Rosa Mutabilis genes
in it. Archduke Charles blooms white, and the blossoms darken through pink
to a purplish red. A blooming bush of Charles is also quite stunning, and I
love to see someone else growing it. :o) The "Green Rose", Rosa chinensis
viridiflora, does not have real petals: the flower bracts are extended and
form green and brown blossom-like growths. I haven't seen this in person but
[rest of message missing]
Re: Favorite Old Roses
I thought I would talk about some of my favorite old roses (and a few
'new' ones). Many people ask me about them, and I will talk about the
ones I know about first-hand. All of these roses grew for me or my
mother, and I helped in keeping them healthy and happy.
First of all, let me tell you that I do not have a "rose garden" per se.
My roses live in the flower border with other perennials and annuals
planted in and around them. My aim is to grow a "perennial border" like
Christopher Lloyd, (my gardening hero), but so far it's a far cry from
Great Dixter.
1) Duchess de Brabant: Tea rose from 1857. Medium pink flowers,
cupped and free flowering. Flowers continuously, with it's best
bloom in the fall. The foliage is deep green with red undersides
on the leaves. This rose is my absolute favorite over all others,
and that is not an easy judgement to make. She grows well in full
sun, but is sensitive to freezing weather. My bush died down to
the ground this year, but it is coming back full swing, and already
has two buds!
2) La Reine Victoria: Bourbon rose, 1872. Lilac-pink blooms that
form perfect cups, even when fully open. Blooms continously. The
foliage is light green, and the bush is tall and slender, about
5 ft tall and 3 ft wide. My poor bush has seen a lot of wear and
tear. When it was rather large, I pruned it heavily and moved it
from my mothers garden to mine. She didn't bloom last year, and I
don't blame her for it. I moved her again this February to a
sunnier location, and she is growing vigorously right now.
3) Honorine de Brabant: Bourbon Rose, date unknown. This is one of
the old striped roses. The flowers are shades of pink and lilac
with purple markings on a large cupped flower. One of the few
striped roses to bloom continously. The plant is vigorous, with
few thorns. Foliage medium green and lush. My plant was brand new
last year but it grew very well.
4) Rose de Rescht: Portland rose, date unknown, discovered by Miss
Nancy Lindsay. Flowers are a rich fuchsia-red color and are
tightly formed into a perfect rosette, fully double. This rose has
the most regular and perfect blooms I've seen so far. It is a
small bush, medium green foliage, and it blooms all season long.
5) Rosa gallica versicolor (Rosa Mundi), Gallica rose of great
antiquity (over 500 years old). This rose is striped, semi-double
with deep rose madder red and white stripes. When it is in full
bloom, the bush looks like a huge peppermint bush! The bush is
very hardy and very lush. It blooms only in the spring, then the
foliage starts look poorly. Subject to blackspot -- but the spring
bloom is worth it all! I plant it among my other flowers so that
when the bloom is over, the bush is not an eyesore.
Re: Favorite Old Roses, Climbing Roses (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: Re: Climbing Roses
Date: 5 Mar 92 18:24:28 GMT
I have just planted two old climbing roses I am very excited about -
SOMBREUIL: a tea rose, "capable of reaching great heights in a
sheltered garden," and whose "fragrance, shiny dark green foliage,
and spectacular creamy white flowers make this one of the most
beautiful and useful of all roses."
ZE'PHIRIN DROUHIN: a semi-double pink Bourbon, popular because the
canes are (really!) thornless.
Both of these are popular in the South, so should do well in the
Central Valley, but may be too tender for northern gardens. Also,
DORTMUND: a single red flower with white eye, said to have holly-
like foliage and good heat tolerance. I'd try it if I had more room.
All are highly rated and fairly disease resistant, though ZD may be
subject to mildew. The first two are available from Smith & Hawken,
the other is stocked by Berkeley Horticultural or try the usual suspects
(I can provide a list of old rose nurseries, if there is any demand.)
Subject: Old Rose sources
Summary: list of nurseries
Date: 31 Mar 92 20:41:52 GMT
Disclaimer: this list is not exhaustive and may contain inaccuracies.
No endorsement of products or service is necessarily (known or) implied.
The two large growers suspected of conspiring to block free trade with
Canada have been deliberately omitted...
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
409 836-9051
catalog $2.00
Carroll Gardens
P.O. Box 310
Westminster, MD 21157
301 848-5422
Corn Hill Nursery
RR 5, Route 890
Petitcodiac, N.B.
E0A 2H0 Canada
506 756-3635
catalog $2.00
Country Bloomers Nursery
20091 E. Chapman Ave.
Orange, CA 92669
714 633-7222
Country Heritage Roses
Route 2, Box 1401
Scurry, TX 75158
214 452-3380
Earl May Seed & Nursery L.P.
Shenandoah, IA 51603
800 831-4193
Forest Farms
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR 97544
503 846-6963
catalog $1.50
Forevergreen Farm
70 New Gloucester Road
North Yarmouth, ME 04021
207 829-5830
catalog free
Greenmantle Nursery
3010 Ettersburg Road
Garberville, CA 95440
707 986-7504
Gurney Seed & Nursery
110 Capitol Street
Yankton, SD 57079
605 665-4451
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Oregon
503 538-1576
Heritage Rosarium
211 Haviland Mill Road
Brookeville, MD 20833
301 774-2806
catalog $1.00
Heritage Rose Gardens
16831 Mitchell Creek Drive
Fort Bragg, CA 95437
707 964-3748
catalog $1.00
High Country Rosarium
1717 Downing at Park Ave.
Denver, CO 80218
303 832-4026
Historical Roses
1657 W. Jackson Street
Painesville, OH 44077
216 357-7270
Hortico Roses
Robson Road, RR 1
Waterdown, Ontario
L0R 2H1 Canada
416 689-6984
catalog $2.00
Inter-State Nurseries
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MI 63353
314 754-4525
800 325-4180
Kimbrew-Walter Roses
Route 2, Box 172
Grand Saline, TX 75140
214 829-2968
Krider Nurseries
P.O. Box 29
Middlebury, IN 46540
219 825-5714
Lowe's Own Root Roses
6 Sheffield Road
Nashua, NH 03062
603 888-2214
catalog $2.00
Morden Nurseries
P.O. Box 1270
Morden, Manitoba
R0G 1J0 Canada
204 822-3311
Pickering Nurseries
670 Kingston Road Hwy 2
Pickering, Ontario
L1V 1A6 Canada
416 839-2111
catalog $2.00 (free price list)
Rose Acres
6641 Crystal Blvd.
Diamond Springs, CA 95619
916 626-1722
Roses of Yesterday & Today
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
408 724-3537
catalog $3.00
Smith & Hawken (seems to be expanding into the old rose market)
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, CA 94941
catalog info 415 383-2000
Yesterday's Rose
572 Las Colindas Road
San Rafael, CA 94903
Bev Dobson's Combined Rose List
215 Harriman Road
Irvington, NY 10533
(to locate source of any commercially propagated rose)
Re: Roses List
Species Roses
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Many of these roses are available from Wayside Gardens. I had ordered four
roses from them, and three are doing wonderfully. The fourth died, and I
called them today. They will send me a replacement this week, no charge. I
like this company!
Re: Old Roses (from Usenet, rec.gardens, Bob Batson, Susan Ford)
Date: 30 Mar 92 16:57:07 GMT
Here is a list of some of the main old rose varieties. I will follow it
up with a selection of roses from each group.
Species Roses
These plants are the ancestors of all of the roses. Species refers
to the plants as they have been found in the wild, un-changed and
un-hybridized. For the most part, species roses are single
petalled, and some are semi-double. The different varieties come
in yellow, pink, rose madder red, and white. They are also very
LARGE bushes, growing up to 50 feet or more. The Lady Banks rose
is an example of a species rose. Most of them only bloom once a
year.
Gallicas
The flowers of the gallicas are usually flat and fully double, the
bushes have few thorns, and they are easy to raise from seed. The
town of Provins, France, was for 600 years the center of a great
rose industry based on _R. gallica officinalis_ (Red Rose of
Lancaster) and some of its forms. This rose was believed to have
medicinal properties. The Empress Josephine collected gallica
roses for her garden in Malmaisson. Some of the roses in this
family date back to the 12th and 13th centurys. Most of them are
shades of rose madder and pink, and bloom only once in a season.
Damasks
This is the first old rose family to have ever-blooming flowers.
It is possible that this rose was brought to Europe by the Greek
traders in the main ports of the Mediterrainian between 800 and 600
B.C. The flowers are usually fully double, flowering in summer,
and then again in fall. They are said to be repeat bloomers,
instead of ever blooming. Their parentage is unknown, but it is
believed that they come from a cross of Rosa gallica and an
everblooming Asian species. An example of this rose family is
Autumn Damask, or "Quatre Saisons". The petals of this rose were
scattered under the feet of the Roman Emperors as they walked along
in public.
Centifolias
Centifolia means 'hundred petals', and these roses are the most
fully double of them all. The roses are very full, and the petals
divide into quarters within the flower. This rose dates back to
bout 410 B.C. These roses make good climbers. Most of the
centifolias bloom only once in spring.
Mosses
This large family of roses are called mosses because their stems
have thousands of tiny thorns on them, and even the flower bracts
are 'mossy' with thorns. The flowers are usually double, and bloom
in the spring. We had a moss rose, and the flowers were the most
intense pink/purple I have ever seen on any rose. It was beautful.
Portland
Developed in the middle of the 19th century, this rose family has
mostly ever-blooming or perpetual blooming roses. The first family
was produced in England at about 1800. The rose was named Duchess
of Portland, hence the name Portland roses. A good Portland rose
is Comte de Chambourd.
Bourbons
These roses came from a natural cross of a China rose and a damask
rose. The bushes are compact and the roses are fewer, but much
better flowers in the fall than the other rose families. This is
personally my favorite group of old roses. The flowers are very
double and globular shaped. They have a beautiful bloom in the
fall, and won't quit blooming until the frost kills them. Some
examples are Honorine de Brabant, La Reine Victoria, Madamme Isaac
Periere, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
China Roses
It was with the introduction of the China roses to Europe that true
ever-blooming roses were developed. Portlands, Bourbons, and
perhaps even Damasks were produced by crossing them with China
roses. Although not very popular in the garden, these roses are
very important to the history of rose culture.
Some Available Old Roses
Species Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Comte de Chambord double pink/lilac
Bourbon Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Honorine de Brabant double striped/lilac/white
Madame Isaac Pereire fully double rose madder
La Reine Victoria double, cupped med. pink
Boule de Neige double white
Madame Pierre Oger double pale pink
Souvenir de al Malmaison double/flat flesh pink
Ferdinand Pichard double red/white striped
Reine des Violettes double purple
Moss Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
General Kleber double palest pink
Shailer's White Moss double white
William Lobb double lilac
Centifolia Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tour de Malkoff double deep fushcia
Chapeau de Napoleon double pink
De Meaux double pale pink
Hybrid Musk Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Cornelia semi double pink
Ballerina single whtie & pink
Penelope semi double pale yellow
Nymphenburg semi double apricot pink
Rugosa Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Blanc Double de Coubert double white
Topaz Jewel double yellow
Reseraie de l'Hay doulbe med. pink
Linda Campbell double red
Alba single white
Fru Dagmar Hastrup single pink
Hansa double deep deep pink
Many of these may be found in Wayside Rose Catalog. Also, check your better
nurseries. Old roses are beginning to show up. I just found a good
speciman of "Souvenir de la Malmaison" for $7!!!!! What a find!
Article 9875 (69 more) in rec.gardens:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Subject: FAQ -- Catalogs for Peppers
Date: 10 Aug 92 11:46:31 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 41
CATALOGS OF PEPPER (CAPSICUM) SOURCES
Mike Huben saved this list of pepper-lovers catalogs:
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
Native Seeds/Search
3950 W New York Drive
Tucson, AZ 85745
Cat $1; Chiltepine peppers as well as landraces of other
vegetables of the SW US and adjacent Mexico.
Old Southwest Trading Company
P.O. Box 7545
Albuquerque, NM 87194
Pepper Gal (The)
10536 119th Ave. North
Largo, FL 34643
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
Seed Savers Exchange
Rural Route 1, Box 239
Decorah, IA 52101
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
St. Thomas Vegetable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
-
Re: Pepper seed sources
SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE
Rural Route 1, Box 239
Decorah, IA 52101
THE PEPPER GAL
10536 119th Ave. North
Largo, FL 34643
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
St Thomas Vegtable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
Subject: Re: Peppers
Date: 21 May 92 21:51:04 GMT
Here are some mail order addresses for peppers. I got them in context
of a discussion of hot peppers, but they may have some sweet peppers
available. I would also check standard seed catalogs for sweet peppers.
Casa Moneo
210 W. 14th Street
New York, NY 10011
La Preferida, Inc.
3400 W. 35th Street
Chicago, IL 60632
The Pepper Gal, Dorothy L. Van Vleck, 10536 119th Avenue North,
Largo, FL 34643
Roswell Seed Co., 115-117 South Main, P.O. Box 725, Roswell, NM
88201, (505) 622-7701
Plants of the Southwest, 1812 Second Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Porter and Son, Seedsmen, 1512 East Washington Street, Stephenville,
TX 76401
Re: HOT peppers
Subject: Beyond Habanero or the list of hot chiles
Date: 10 Feb 92 22:06:39 GMT
The List of Hot Chiles:
REF: Redwood City Seed, box 361, redwood city, ca, 94064, CAT $1
HS=ounces of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles
chiles are tested in state normally used
Anaheim: HS=25 fresh
U.S. Ancho: HS=50 fresh
Serrano: HS=133 fresh
Mex. Ancho: HS=135 fresh
Fresno: HS=280 fresh
Jalapeno: HS=400 fresh
Guru Palace: HS=1,300 fresh
Guajillo: HS=1,300 dried
Cayenne: HS=2,500 fresh
Japones: HS=2,500 fresh
HABANERO: HS=2,500 fresh, unusual apricot flavor, reputedly the hottest
Aji Rojo: HS=3,500 dried
Thai: HS=6,700 dried
De Arbol: HS=8,000 dried
Red/Tabasco: HS=10,000 fresh
Zimbabwe Bird: HS=19,500 dried
Pequin: HS=20,000 dried
TEPIN: HS=50,000 dried without seeds, 13,000 dried with seeds
The Hottest, Guiness Book of World Records
BTW: Redwood City is also a source of seeds, if you want to grow these.
Re: Sources for pepper seeds
Subject: Habanero, Chili
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:21:45 GMT
One source for seeds is Shepherd's Garden Seeds in Connecticut. Their number
fo r a credit card order is (203) 482-3638. The stock nuber is #1964, cost
1.75$. Their address is:
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
A second source is
St Thomas Vegtable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
They advertise a grow kit. It includes domesticated growing instructions, seed
and a jar of habanero chili paste. Price 19.50 + 4.50 S&H.
Subject: RE: pepper seeds
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:45:50 GMT
There have been quite a few requests for various types of pepper seeds
and I have a catalogue from a company in Dallas, Texas, that specializes
in pepper seeds. I haven't had a chance to try their product so I can't
give any comments about quality or yield. Following is their name and
address and a list of the peppers in their catalogue. I hope this helps.
They don't list the SCOTCH BONNETT pepper which is frequently mistaken
for and more frequently passed off as HABANERO so if you are interested
in those perhaps in a year or so someone could tell us which they
really are.
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
ANCHO (Chile Poblano)
CUBANELLE
COLORADO (mild or hot)
MIRASOL
ANAHEIM (mild or hot)
HUNGARIAN HOT WAX
PASILLA
FRESNO CHILE GRANDE
CHERRY (sweet or hot)
JALAPENO (also TAM variety)
SERRANO
PIMIENTO GRANDE
TAKANOTUSME
SANTA FE GRANDE
GOLDSPIKE
YELLOW SWEET WAX
TOMATILLO
ROUMANIAN (sweet or hot)
JUPITER
CAYENNE
YUNG KO
TA TONG
PEPERONCINI
ITALIAN SWEET
GABANERO
FLORAL GEM
NUMEX BIG JIM
NUMEX R. NAKY
PETITE YELLOW
CALORO
HIDALGO
ESPANOLA IMPROVED
RUBY GIANT
CHIA (not the pet B-))
CILANTRO (Coriander, Chinese parsley)
TATUME
SUPER SIOUX
Terms are check or money order and no C.O.D.'s. All seeds are $1 per
package and there's a $1 postage/handling fee.
Re: Frost resistant chiles (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:25:46 GMT
I heard (saw) a rumor (posting) on r.g that there are no frost resistant
chiles. OK:
Capsicum baccatum v. pendulum
Andean Aji (~25oF?)
Capsicum pubescens
chile manzano rojo y amarillo, (red and yellow apple chiles), rocoto (~28oF?)
Capsicum (?) (also has pubescent leaves)
chile de arbol (~30oF?)
Seed Source:
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman, po box 1058, redwood city, ca, 94064, CAT $1
More Info Source:
-----------------
Solanaceae Enthusiasts, 3370 princeton ct, santa clara, ca, 95051
All I know about this outfit is that they are listed in Cornucopia as a
source of newsletters and books. Since I happen to know that this is
also the house of the world famous solanaceae expert, Mr. John Riley,
Re: Another pepper seed source (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: Re: Pepper Problems
Date: 28 Apr 92 14:54:12 GMT
And finally, here is the address for my pepper seed suplier:
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
I've only ordered from them once, but everything they sent was
satisfactory. They have lots more stuff than just peppers seeds.
Subject: HOT PEPPER SCALE
Date: 9 Oct 92 13:07:04 GMT
For anyone who has expressed an interest in a hot pepper scale, here
are a few scales I have compiled over the last few months, both from
the net and other sources. The final column is my own perception of
a pepper heat index, however it is suspect because it's my own taste
(I used a 1-10 scale as in "The Great Chile Book" so I arbitrarily
assigned habeneros a 10 as in the book). I mentioned only peppers
which appeared in at least two sources.
SOURCE (1) "The Great Chile Book" by M. Miller, scale of 1-10 (10 is
hottest)
SOURCE (2) Redwood City Seed Company, "HS" Hot Sauce scale, ounces
of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles
SOURCE (3) "The Whole Chile Pepper Magazine", Scoville Unit scale
X1000, obtained by high pressure liquid chromatography
SOURCE (4) My own palette
ALL SOURCES: (d) dried, (f) fresh
Aji Rojo, (1) 7-8.5 f, (2) 3500 d, (3) 30-50 f
Anaheim, (1) 2-3 f, (2) 25 f, (4) 2 f
Ancho, (1) 5 d, (2) 50 f, (4) 2-3 f
Cayenne, (1) 8 d, (2) 2500 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 8 f, 7 d
Cherry Red, (1) 3 f, 3 d, (4) 4 f
Chipotle, (1) 6 d, (2) 2500 d, (3) 50-100 f
De Arbol, (1) 7.5 d, (2) 8000 d, (3) 15-30 f
Guajillo, (1) 2-4 d, (2) 1300
Habenero, (1) 10 d, (2) 2500 f ,10000 d, (3) 100-300 f, (4) 10 f
Jalapeno, (1) 5.5 f, (2) 400 f, (3) 2.5-5 f, (4) 5 f
Pequin, (1) 8.5 d, (2) 20000 d, (3) 30-50 f
Problano, (1) 3 f, (2) 135 f, (4) 2-3 f
Rocoto, (1) 7-8 f, (3) 30-50 f
Serrano, (1) 7 f, 7.5 d, (2) 133 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 6 f
Tabasco, (1) 9 f, (2) 10000 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 9 f
Tepin, (1) 8 f, 8 d, (2) 13000 f, 50000 d
Thai, (1) 7-8 f, (2) 6700 d, (3) 50-100 f, (4) 9 f
Yellow Wax, (1) 1 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 2 f
From: James H. Sterling
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: North Star hybrid bell pepper plug transplants available.
Date: Thu, 12 May 94 23:41:09 -0500
North Star hybrid bell pepper transplants are available for sale
and some other varieties also. Some are .8" and some 1.0" greenhouse
grown plug transplants. They can be used for a fresh market or a pro-
cessing pepper crops. Yields from 15 to 23 tons per acre were achieved
with the North Star variety last year (1993). If you're interested, or
know of any one who might be, please contact me at one of the addresses
or numbers below for prices and time of availability . Thank you.
James H. Sterling (Jim), Field Manager
Postal: Moody Dunbar, Inc., P.O. Box 68, Limestone, TN 37681
UPS: 3202 Highway 107, Chuckey, TN 37641
Tel: Voice: 615-257-2131 Fax: 615-257-3649 Wats: 800-251-8202
email: 72135.244@compuserve.com or sterlingj@delphi.com
From: Brian Lo
Subj: FAQ: Peppers
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:10:47 -0800
PEPPERS
Capsicum annuum and C. frutescens
Taxonomists have only recently begun to agree regarding classification
of the domesticated species of Capsicum. Although 5 species are described,
only two, C. annuum and C. frutescens have any significance commercially in
the U.S.A. Early species separation on the basis of fruit shape, color and
position are of little taxonomic value. Flower and seed color, shape of the
calyx, the number of flowers per node and their orientation, are the primary
separating characteristics.
C. annuum is the most important domesticated species in the U.S.A. and
is the species to which all bell peppers, and all the peppers listed below
belong (unless specified otherwise.) The only C. frutescens pepper of any
significance is Tabasco. The Tabasco pepper is difficult to cross with C.
annuum types. Hot peppers may belong to any of above species and others. The
C. chinense varieties Habanero and Scotch Bonnet are considered the hottest.
See other comments under "Novelty" pepper section below.
The interest in peppers extends to their nutritive and medicinal value
in that peppers are a recognized source of Vitamins C, E and are high in
antioxidants. These compounds are associated with chemoprevention of cardio-
vascular disorders, cancers, and cataracts.
Peppers are a warm-season crop and need a long season for maximum
production. Temperature has a large effect on the rate of plant and fruit
growth and the development and quality of the red or yellow pigments. Ideal
temperature for red pigment development is between 65 and 75 F. Above this
range the red color becomes yellowish, and below it color development slows
dramatically and stops completely below 55 F.
Many excellent pepper varieties are available. Test several and select
the ones that do well under your production system, and meets your market
needs.
PUNGENCY RATINGS
The most common sensory method to determine pungency in peppers has been
an organoleptic test (Scoville, a dilution-taste procedure) with results ex-
pressed as Scoville Heat Units (SHU). The validity and accuracy of it have
been widely criticized. The American Spice Trade Association and the Interna-
tional Organization for Standardization have adopted a modified version. The
American Society for Testing and Materials is considering other organoleptic
tests (the Gillett method) and a number of chemical tests to assay for capsai-
cinoids involved in pungency. Still, the values obtained by the various tests
are often related to Scoville Heat Units.
A "National Fiery Foods Show" is held annually in Albuquerque NM. For
more information call 505/873-2187.
RECOMMENDED BELL PEPPER VARIETIES (approximately 60-70 days to first harvest
from transplants):
Bell (green): Belle Star, Yankee Bell, Bell King, North Star, Wonder
Bell, Lady Bell, Jupiter Elite, Park's Early Thickset, Bell Tower, Skipper,
Bellboy, Mission Bell, Ringer, Bell Captain, Melody, Ace Hybrid, Cardinal.
Research in the Hermiston area indicates that Jupiter Elite, Bell Tower,
Belmont, Galaxy and Skipper performed well. For trial: Camelot, Inia, Merlin,
Ranger, Summersweet, Wonderbelle, Cubico.
Note: In 1992, Bell Star and Yankee Bell produced the highest
proportion of 4-lobed, blocky peppers. Their plant growth is
more open, and not as many peppers were misshaped by growing among
branches and being confined between other fruit.
Bell (Red): Many green bell peppers turn red when fully mature. How-
ever, early, large-fruited, thick-walled varieties, demanded by the market,
are rare. Research at O.S.U. and from British Columbia indicates that Lady
Bell, La Bamba, Four Corners, Merlin, Ace Hybrid, Bellboy and Cardinal per-
formed best. Four Corners and Merlin also had thick-walls. For trial: Bell
Star, Melody, North Star, Ringer, Candice, Vidi and Predi.
Bell (yellow): Golden Belle and Astro (bright yellow), Klondike Bell
(early, high yield, has an some orange tinge), Honey Bell, Golden Cal Wonder,
Orobelle (orange-yellow). For trial: Atlantic, Summer Sweet, Marengo (Lamuyo
type); Gold Crest (small fruit) and Summer Sweet (both turn yellow or orange-
yellow quickly).
Bell (orange): Corona (performed best in OSU trials in '92). Oriole
(best in trials in British Columbia). For trial: Ariane, Kerala, Ori,
Valencia.
Purple, chocolate, and white bell peppers (see list below). These are
intermediate colors lasting 7-10 days then turning red.
Note: Many of the red, yellow and orange peppers found in the market
are greenhouse-grown from varieties specially developed for greenhouse
production.
Bell pepper varieties for greenhouse production of green or red fruit
for specialty markets (for trial only): Cubico, Flair, Plutona, Delphin.
Yellow fruit: Samantha, Gloden Flame, Golden Belle, Golden Crest, Marengo,
Orobelle, Olympic. Orange fruit: Ariane, Valencia.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range:
variety name Color Stages Pungency Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bell; 3.5"X4.5", fruit pendant, pungency 0-100 Scoville Heat Units (SHU):
Bell King green to red sweet early
Bell Captain green to red sweet thick walls
Bell Tower green to red sweet smooth
Bellboy green to red sweet thick wall
Bellestar green to red sweet smooth
California Wonder 300 green to red sweet late, thick
Cardinal green to red sweet thick wall
Four Corners green to red sweet good shape
Jupiter green to red sweet large, mid
Lady Bell green to red sweet early
Midway green to red sweet early
Mission Belle green to red sweet v. smooth
Parks Early Thickset green to red sweet early
Parks Whopper green to red sweet med.
Pip green to red sweet large
Predi green to red sweet large, deep red
Ringer green to red sweet large, mid
Skipper green to red sweet smooth
Sweet Belle green to red sweet mid
Goldie yellow to red sweet early
Gypsy yellow to red sweet early
Yellow Belle yellow to red sweet early
Early Bountiful to yellow sweet
Golden Summer to yellow sweet late
Golden Cal. Wonder to yellow sweet thick wall
Golden Bell to yellow sweet early
Inia to yellow sweet thick wall
Klondike Bell to yellow sweet early, thick wall
Orobelle to yellow sweet thick wall
Summer Sweet 820 to yellow sweet
Golden Crest to orng-yellow sweet
Quadrato d'Oro to orng-yellow sweet
Ariane to orange sweet large, thick
Corona to orange sweet large, thick
Kerala to orange sweet large, thick
Oriole to orange sweet large, thick
Salsa RZ to orange sweet large, thick
Super Stuff yellow to orange sweet early
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.
Variety name Color Stages Pungency* Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bell peppers continued:
Lorelei purple then red sweet small
Purple Beauty purple then red sweet small
Purple Belle purple then red sweet small
Violetta purple then red sweet small
Blue Jay to lavender then red sweet
Islander to lavender then red sweet
Lilac to lavender then red sweet
Chocolate Bell to chocolate sweet large fruit
Mulato to chocolate
Sweet Chocolate to chocolate sweet small fruit
Albino to white then red sweet small
Dove to white then red sweet small
Ivory to white then red sweet
Elongated Bell; (lamuyo type fruit) 3.5"x5"; pendant, pungency 0-100 SHU:
Blue Star green to red sweet large, late
Elisa green to red sweet mid
Marengo green to yellow sweet
Melody green to red sweet early
Signet green to yellow sweet early
Other peppers and their descriptions (approximately 65-105 days depending on
type).
Anaheim; fruit 2"x7"; pendant, pungency 500-3,500 SHU (most 500-1000 SHU):
Anaheim TMR green to red mild
Anaheim M green to red warm
Coronado green to red warm
New Mexico 64L green to red mild
NuMex Conquistador green to red sweet for paprika
Volcano green to red hot
Poblano/ancho; fruit heart-shaped 3"-4" x 4"-7"; pendant, 1,000-2,000 SHU.
The poblano pepper is a major type grown in Mexico, used green, red or dried
(called ancho when dried). It is commonly used for chiles rellenos:
Ancho 101 dark green to red mild thick wall
Esmeralda dark green to red ditto
New Mexican dark green to red ditto
Poblano dark green to red warm ditto
Verdano dark green to red ditto
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.
variety name Color Stages Pungency* Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elongated, tapered; fruit variable shapes and sizes; pendant, 0-1000 SHU:
Banana Supreme green to yellow sweet early
Canape green to yellow sweet early
Cuban yel-grn:red orange warm
Cubanelle yel-grn:red orange mild long fruit
Hungarian Wax grnish yel:yellow warm
Sweet Banana grnish yel:yellow sweet
Cherry; about 1" diameter; upright, 100-5,000 SHU:
Cascabel green to red hot
Large Red Cherry green to red warm
Sweet Cherry green to red warm
Cayenne; fruit 0.5"x3"; pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU. A favorite in Creole and
Cajun cooking:
Cayenne, Large Red Thick green to red firey slender
Cayenne continued...
Cayenne, Long Slim green to red firey slender
Carolina Cayenne green to red firey
Charlston Hot grn to orange to red firey to 4" long
Super Cayenne green to red firey long slender
Jalapeno; fruit 1.5"x3"; pendant, 2,500-5000 SHU. The most common hot chili
grown in the U.S.A.:
Jalapa green to red hot blunt cylind.
Jalapeno M green to red very hot thick wall
Jalapeno Hot green to red hot smooth
Mitla hybrid green to red hot thick, blunt cyl.
Tam Jalapeno #1 green to red hot thick wall
Pimento; fruit 1.5"x2.5"; pendant, 0-100 SHU:
Pimento L green to red sweet thick wall
Serrano; fruit 0.5"x2.25"; pendant, 5,000-10,000 SHU:
Serrano types dark green to red very hot small
Tabasco C. frutescens; fruit 0.25"x 1.25";pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU:
Tabasco green to red firey small
Novelty, ornamental:
Marbles (prolific round, mix of green, yellow and red fruit), Riot (prolific
upright long fruit, mix of green, yellow and red).
Habanero (C. chinense) a firey-hot box-shaped small pepper turning from green
to orange. Although the Habanero (C. chinense) pepper has been listed as
being the hottest of all peppers, some rated at 200,000 to 300,000 SHU, not
all Habaneros are hot! Hot Habanero peppers are used to make hot bottled
sauces. They are grown mainly in Central America and the Yucatan. Other C
chinense extremely hot peppers include Scotch Bonnet (yellow), and Bahamian.
SEED COMPANIES
Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
De Ruiter Seeds Inc. POB 20228, Columbus, OH 43220
ENZA Zaden, POB 7, 1600 AA, Enkhuisen, Netherlands 02280-15844
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Rogers NK. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711-4727
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
The Pepper Gal. POB 12534 Lake Park, FL 33403-0534
Vilmorin Inc. POB 707 Empire, CA 95319
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
Zwaan Seeds Inc. POB 397, Woodstown New Jersey 08098-0397
SOIL
Peppers grow best on well-drained, moderately fertile soils. Use a soil
test to determine fertilizer and liming requirements. Adjust soil pH to near
neutral (7.0) for maximum yields.
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Pepper seed numbers approximately 72,000 per pound, but bell peppers are
not normally direct seeded. Use high quality, fungicide treated seed in the
production of transplants. Some seed companies now offer "vigorized' or
"conditioned" seed which has better germination under cool soil conditions.
Peppers are sensitive to damping-off. Most chile and spice peppers are
direct-seeded.
In direct seeded plantings a pop-up fertilizer solution may be helpful.
Spray directly on the seed a solution of 2-6-0 at 1 pint per 100 lineal feet
of row (use 1/2 this rate on sandy soils). A 2-6-0 solution is equivalent to
1 part of 10-34-0 liquid fertilizer diluted with 4 parts of water.
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Pepper is a warm-temperature vegetable and requires a long growing sea-
son. Transplants which are grown should be kept close to the following tempe-
ratures: Days:65-85 F. Nights: 60-65 F. Temperatures above 95 F may result
in flower bud drop. Highest yields are obtained when soil temperatures remain
in the 70-75 F range. Soil temperatures below 68 F may result in substantial
yield reductions.
The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic mulch, or the new IRT (wave-length selective) mulch is strongly
recommended.
A very few peppers are sometimes grown in greenhouses. The varieties
Bellboy, Blue Star and Mogador are reported to tolerate cool temperatures that
sometimes occur in off-season greenhouse production.
TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION AND TRANSPLANTING
It takes between 3 and 4 ounces of seed to produce enough plants for an
acre. Seeds should be planted in a heated greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks before the
field transplanting date. When growing transplants in unheated greenhouses,
cold frames or field transplant beds, 8 to 14 weeks may be necessary.
Seedlings are transplanted to other flats when the first true leaves are l l/2
in. long and spaced 2 to 2 l/2 in. apart in the greenhouse or plant bed. At
all times handle pepper seedlings with care because they are easily broken or
damaged. Harden transplants for about a week before transplanting to the
field by reducing moisture and maintaining a temperature of 55 to 65 F. This
will give resistance to wilting and sunscald.
Apply a starter fertilizer solution to the transplants when transplan-
ting to the field. Select starter fertilizers that have the highest level of
phosphorus available, such as 10-52-17, 11-48-0, 11-55-0 dry fertilizers or
10-34-0 liquid fertilizer. Make up a stock solution of 3 lbs of the dry, such
as 10-52-17, or 2 pints of liquid 10-34-0 per 50 gallons of water. Use 1/2
pint of of this stock solution per plant, applying the solution directly to
the plant roots when setting in the field. You will need about 13 fifty
gallon batches to transplant an acre.
Depth of transplanting has normally been to the top of the roots or root
ball. Research from Florida with the variety Jupiter suggests that pepper
transplants may benefit from being set deeper, up to the first true leaf.
Thirty days after transplanting, plants planted to the first true leaf had
more leaves, greater plant dry weight, more blooms and less lodging than
transplants planted to the cotyledons or to the top of the root ball. Other
data from Pennsylvania suggest caution however. Soil temperature and moisture
would be important considerations.
Greenhouse peppers are sown October through February for harvest of red
fruit approximately 5 months later, March through July.
SPACING
Space rows, or pairs of rows about 18-36 inches apart. Plants should be
12-l8 in. apart in the row and between pairs of rows, depending on method of
transplanting and transplanter capability. These spacings represent a plant
population of from 10,000 to 29,000 per acre
Leave roadways across the field at about 150 foot intervals to facili-
tate carrying pails of peppers to collection locations if a harvester aid and
bulk loading is not used.
When using plastic mulch, plant 2 rows of peppers per mulch strip, using
36 inch wide platic. Space plastic strips 5-6 feet apart. Use drip irriga-
tion tubing under the plastic mulch between the two pepper rows, with drip
emmiters at 9 inch spacing down the row.
In greenhouse production, allow 3.0 to 3.5 square feet/plant. Plants
are pruned to a 2-stem training system. After 10-12 leaves have developed,
the plant forks, and a flower develops at the fork. Two or three branches are
produced, of which the two strongest are chosen for further production. These
must be supported by a string or post, and all subsequent branches removed
after the 2nd leaf. Restrict fruit set on the two stems until at least 3 or 4
leaf axils have formed or stem growth and subsequent fruit set will be greatly
reduced.
FERTILIZER
A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The
following recommendations are general guidelines for loamy soils or when
organic matter exceeds 2 1/2% :
Nitrogen: 75-100 (N) lb/acre.
Side-dress with 35-50 lb/acre of nitrogen after the first flowers are
set. Where mulching and trickle irrigation are practiced, additional
nitrogen can be fed through the trickle irrigation system at l5 lb./acre when
the first fruit begins to set and an additional l5 lb./acre four weeks after.
To prevent clogging or plugging from occurring use soluble forms of nitrogen
(urea or Ammonium nitrate) and chlorinate the system once a month with a l0 to
50 ppm chlorine solution. Chlorinate more frequently if the flow rate
decreases.
Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb/acre
Potash: 100-200 (K2 O) lb/acre depending on soil test.
Sulfur: 30-35 (S) lb/acre
pH: Add lime if below 6.0
GROUND MULCHES AND ROW COVERS
The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic ground mulch is recommended. The use of ground mulch increases
soil temperature, conserves soil moisture, and controls weeds, increasing
yields and is strongly recommended especially for production in western
Oregon. A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control
together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and
clear film. These films are called IRT (infra-red transmitting) films. They
are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where
soil warming is important. (See also section on spacing).
Spunbonded polyester and perforated polyethylene row covers may be used
for 4 to 6 weeks immediately after transplanting depending on temperature.
Research in Illinois with the varieties "Lady Bell" and "Bell Boy", over a
three year period, indicates that covers should be removed after 650-675 heat
units (using a base temperature of 50 F.) have been accumulated. Heat units
should be based on temperatures recorded outside the covers but nearby and
calculated as: the sum of (daily high+daily low)/2-50 F.
Row covers increase heat unit accumulation by 2 to 3 times over ambient.
Two to four degrees of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil
temperatures and root growth are also increased under row covers as are early
yields, and in some cases total yields. Research from Connecticut indicates
that the use of row cover and plastic mulch is particularly cost effective
when growing red, yellow or orange bell peppers for the fresh market.
IRRIGATION
Apply water uniformly to reduce incidence of blossom end rot. Irrigate
carefully after fruit ripens to reduce fruit decay. A total of 12-15 inches
may be needed in western Oregon and 25-30 inches in eastern Oregon, depending
on planting date and harvest season. Approximate summer irrigation needs for
the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5
in July, and 7.0 in August.
HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE
Yields of 15 to 25 tons/acre of bell peppers may be obtained for
processing. Fresh market yields may range from 500 to 1000 28 lb. cartons per
acre. Pimento and dried chili pepper yields range from 2 to 3 tons/acre.
Pepper yields are greatly influenced by the number of harvests and season.
Bell pepper types are generally hand harvested as green mature fruits.
Maturity is determined when fruits are smooth and firm to the touch (a
function of wall thickness). Bell peppers for fresh market must also be 3
inches in diameter and not less than 3 1/2 inches long to qualify as USDA
Fancy. They can also be harvested red, which are considerably sweeter and
more flavorful.
Cherry types are harvested as both green and red fruits, and the banana
types are generally harvested as yellow mature peppers. Jalapano and some
cherry peppers have been machine harvested successfully in Michigan and
California. Machine harvesting may be successful with other types especially
where the peppers are intended for processing. Peppers intended for machine
harvest need to be grown on raised beds in order to be harvested successfully.
When red peppers are desired, a foliar spray of Ethephon (Ethrel) may be
used to promote early, uniform ripening and coloring, or to ripen the par-
tially ripe fruit remaining at the end of the harvest season. Check the
Ethephon label for complete instructions and regulations.
STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):
Sweet Peppers:
Store sweet peppers at 45 to 55 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity.
Sweet, or bell, peppers are subject to chilling injury at temperatures below
45 F, and temperatures above 55 F encourage ripening and spread of bacterial
soft rot. Bell peppers should not be stored longer than 2 to 3 weeks even
under the most favorable conditions. At 32 to 36 F peppers usually develop
pitting in a few days. Peppers held below 45 F long enough to cause serious
chilling injury also develop numerous lesions of alternaria rot. Alternaria
causes the calyx to mold and decay. Holding at 40 F and below predisposes
peppers to Botrytis decay also.
Rapid precooling of harvested sweet peppers is essential in reducing
marketing losses, and this can be done by forced-air cooling, hydrocooling or
vacuum cooling. Properly vented cartons are recommended to facilitate forced-
air cooling. If hydrocooling is used, care should be taken to prevent the
development of decay.
Sweet peppers prepackaged in moisture-retentive films, such as perforat-
ed polyethylene, have a storage life at 45 to 50 F up to a week longer than
non- packaged peppers. The use of film crate liners can help in reducing
moisture loss from the fruit.
It is commercial practice to wax peppers; only a thin coating should be
applied. Waxing provides some surface lubrication, which not only reduces
chafing in transit but also reduces shrinkage; the result is longer storage
and shelf life. Senescence of sweet peppers is hastened by ethylene. There-
fore, it is not a good practice to store peppers with apples, pears, tomatoes,
or other ethylene producing fruits in the same room.
Low-oxygen (3 to 5 %) atmospheres retard ripening and respiration during
transit and storage. High concentrations of carbon dioxide delay the loss of
green color. However, high carbon dioxide also causes calyx discoloration.
Chili and Other Hot Peppers:
Storage temperature depends on use; see text. A humidity of 60 to 70%
is recommended. Chili peppers are usually picked when ripe and are then dried
and allowed to equalize in moisture content in covered piles. Water is
usually added to the peppers after drying to reduce brittleness. They are
then packed tightly into sacks holding 200 or more pounds and are generally
stored in non-refrigerated warehouses for up to 6 months. The temperature of
the warehouses depends to some extent on their construction and the way in
which they are managed but chiefly on the outside temperature (50 to 75 F).
Insect infestation is a major storage problem. In southern states, chili and
other hot peppers are dried, packaged, and then stored at 32 to 50 F until
shipped to processing plants. Storage at low temperatures aids in retarding
the loss of red color and in slowing down insect activity.
The moisture content of chili and other hot peppers when stored should
be low enough (10 to 15 %) to prevent mold growth. A relative humidity of 60
to 70 % is desirable. With a higher moisture content the pods may be too
pliable for grinding and may have to be re-dried. With lower moisture content
(under 10 %) pods may be so brittle they shatter during handling; this causes
losses and the release of dust, which is irritating to the skin and respirato-
ry system.
The use of polyethylene bags allows better storage and reduces the dust
problem. The liners ensure that the pods maintain a constant moisture content
during storage and up until the time of grinding; thus, they permit successful
storage or shipment under a wide range of relative humidities. Packed in this
manner, peppers can be stored 6 to 9 months at 32 to 40 F.
Manufacturers of chili and other hot pepper products hold part of their
supply of the raw material in cold storage at 32 to 50 F, but they prefer to
grind the peppers as soon as possible and store them in the manufactured form
in airtight containers.
Freshly harvested chili or other hot peppers should be stored under the
same temperature and humidity conditions as those for sweet peppers.
PACKAGING
Bell peppers are packaged in 25-30 lb. l l/9 bushel containers or 30 lb.
cartons. Chili peppers and yellow types are packaged in 16-25 lb. lugs or 10-
20 lb. cartons.
PEST CONTROL FOR PEPPERS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.
THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.
1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve
maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures
and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.
2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed
will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.
3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the
field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed
weeds.
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming
Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
weeds, but not consume them with flame.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat 0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A
Gramoxone Extra
(see remarks)
Restricted-use pesticide. Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. Wearing
protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. Apply
during or after planting, but before crop emergence. Add a nonionic
surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
insoluble precipitates. Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not
apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media. (Acts as contact;
absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
living cells.)
______________________________________________________________________________
PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED
DIRECT-SEEDED AND TRANSPLANTS
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin 0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A
Treflan
(transplanted pepper only)
Apply before transplanting and incorporate within 24 hours by cross-
disking or by using a PTO rotary tiller. Transplants may be set im-
mediately. Spray only once and avoid overlaps. Use lower rates on
light or coarse textured soils low in organic matter. Consult label for
planting crops within 12 months. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily of
shoots).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide 1 to 2 lb ai/A
Devrinol
Apply and incorporate uniformly 1 to 2 inches deep. Use lower rates on
light, sandy, or coarse-textured soils. Following harvest, deep
moldboard plowing or disk plowing must be completed before planting
succeeding crops. (Inhibits roots of seedlings).
______________________________________________________________________________
TRANSPLANTS ONLY
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA 9 lb ai/A
Dacthal
Apply 4 to 6 weeks after transplanting to weed-free soil. Soil should
be moist and additional water applied for activation. Performs poorly
in western Oregon and Washington. Consult label for planting sensitive
crops within 12 months. Results can be improved with overhead irriga-
tion applied immediately after spraying. (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION
Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide. In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant. The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device. Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant. Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.
Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.
Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix: Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated
charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural
vermiculite. If severe dustiness is a problem, add a
small amount of water. Apply 1 ft3 of mixture/600 ft.
of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A. Fill the
seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press
with a press wheel.
______________________________________________________________________________
POSTEMERGENCE
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sethoxydim 0.29 lb ai/A
Poast
Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
the label. Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resis-
tant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
quackgrass can be suppressed. Do not apply within 20 days of harvest,
nor exceed 4.5 pints/A per season. (Inhibits fatty acid production,
cell membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT CONTROL
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Armyworms, Cutworms, Loopers. permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
Loopers only.
Lannate - 0.45 lb
Small to large larvae that feed
on stems, leaves, and fruit. carbaryl - 2.0 lb Cutworms
and fall armyworm only.
Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2
qt. Use a spreader-sticker to
enhance control.
Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb
Bell peppers only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Green peach aphid endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Myzus persicae
Phosdrin - 0.25 lb
Yellowish, pink to pale green
plant louse. malathion - 1.25 to 1.5 lb
Where aphids have become phosphamidon - 0.5 lb
resistant to most organic phos-
phate insecticides, endosulfan Dibrom - 1 lb
is the preferred material.
dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.33 lb
Lannate - 0.45 lb
Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb
bell peppers only
diazinon - 0.25 lb
Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan Dyfonate - 2 to 4 lb. Preplant
Scutigerella immaculata soil treatment. Do not rotate
with carrots.
Small, white, centipede-like
animals active in soil. parathion - 6 lb - replant soil
treatment.
Telone II or C-17 preplant
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles including azinphosmethyl - 0.5 lb
Western potato flea beetle
Epitrix subcrinita carbaryl - 1 lb
Small, oval, shiny bronze jump- Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
ing beetles. Chew small circu-
lar holes in foliage. methoxychlor - 1.75 to 2.25 lb
rotenone - 0.35 to 0.5 lb
endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
Bell peppers only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites dicofol - 0.375 to 0.75 lb. Do
Tetranychus spp. not feed.
Tiny, spiderlike animals found Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
on undersurfaces of foliage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
Limonius spp.
Dyfonate - 4 lb
Brown, jointed larvae of click Do not rotate with carrots.
beetles. Kill young plants, in-
jure older ones. Telone II or C-17 preplant
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE CONTROL
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
PEPPER -- MOSAIC VIRUSES
Cause: Several viruses transmitted by aphids, including alfalfa mosaic virus,
potato virus y, pepper mottle virus, tobacco etch virus, and cucumber mosaic
virus. Tomato spotted wilt virus also infects pepper but is transmitted by
thrips.Symptoms: Bright yellow mottle, ringspots, and line patterns on both
leaves and fruit. Fruit and plants are stunted, and sometimes exhibit lateral
leaf rolling. Many of these viruses overwinter in perennial legumes such as
alfalfa and various clovers. Several common weeds are hosts of some of the
viruses.
Control: Plant as far as possible from alfalfa fields, clover fields, and
permanent pastures containing clovers. Keep area around fields as weed-free
as possible. Aphid control is helpful but will not provide perfect control.
If tomato spotted wilt is a problem, control of thrips will be of some help.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ANTHRACNOSE
Cause: Gloeosporium, a fungus found on both peppers and eggplants. This
fungus (like many other anthracnose fungi) is saprophytic during part of its
life cycle and may survive from year to year in the soil crop refuse.
Symptoms: Round sunken spots appear on both green and ripe fruits. Spores
develop on the infections often in radiating circles around the center, which
later may contain masses of pink spores. The seed may be infected and often
seedlings have the disease, which later moves into the developing foliage.
Such infections are often unnoticed until the fruits start to grow, at which
time the fruit rot phase may become serious.
Control:
1. Destroy all plant refuse by burning or deep plowing.
2. Rotate crops.
3. Spray fixed copper fungicide. See product label.
4. Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- BACTERIAL SPOT
Cause: A bacterium Xanthomonas vesicatoria, that is seedborne and frequently
comes with transplants. It will live over winter in infected debris and is
spread by irrigation. Pickers and equipment also spread the disease, particu-
larly when the plants are wet.
Symptoms: Water-soaked spots on leaves that turn gray with black centers.
They frequently are surrounded by a yellow halo. They later fall out, leaving
holes apaproximately 0.25 inch in diameter that give the plant a ragged look.
Fruit spots are at first water-soaked and later become raised and scabby.
Control:
1. Plant disease-free seed or transplants.
2. Limit overhead irrigation or, better, produce peppers under furrow or drip
irrigation.
3. Do not pick or cultivate plants when they are wet.
Chemical control:
If disease is present, spray with fixed copper during wet period. Several
materials are labeled. See product label for rates.
Residue: Copper -- exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- CERCOSPORA LEAF SPOT
Cause: Cercospora melongenae (mostly on eggplant), Cercospora capsici (mostly
on pepper), fungi. These organisms survive the winter on dead plant parts.
Symptoms: Leaf spot infections on eggplant are small, chlorotic, gray turning
to brown, with tiny, dark specks containing spores arranged in circular
fashion. Eggplant fruits are not attacked. Leaf spot on pepper is at first
water-soaked and up to inch in diameter, later becoming tan in shade with a
dark marginal ring. Centers may often drop out as they age. Spots develop on
stems and petioles. When numerous, the leaves turn yellow and may drop or
wilt. Defoliation is often serious, exposing peppers to sunscald.
Control:
1. Destroy by burning or deep burying old pepper and eggplant refuse.
2. Use seed from disease-free areas.
3. Rotate crops.
4. Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.
5. Spray fixed copper fungicide. See product label.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- COMMON (Tobacco) MOSAIC
Cause: A virus spread by aphids and mechanical means. It overwinters on wild
perennial hosts.
Symptoms: Varying types of yellow and green leaf mottling accompanied by
curling and leaf distortion are displayed. In the early season, plants are
frequently stunted and very few fruits develop. Plants infected later in the
season (during or after blossom) show slight mottling only. Infected fruits
are often yellowed, shriveled, mottled, irregularly shaped, and dwarfed in
size.
Control:
1. Maintain rigid weed control in nearby plantings.
2. Controlling aphid vectors with insecticides may help reduce spread.
3. Do not smoke around the plants, particularly in the greenhouse.
4. Wash hands after handling infected plants.
5. Rouge infected plants early.
6. Resistant cultivars include `Yolo-wonder', `Pennbell', `Bell Boy',
`California Wonder 300', `Orobelle', `Bell Tower', `Elisa', `Marquis', `Belle
Star', `Big Belle', `Four Corners', `Sweet Belle', `Bolero', `Lamuyo',
`Emerald Giant', `Prima Belle', `Lady Bell', `La Bamba', `Jupiter' and
`Keystone Resistant Giant'. Hot types that are resistant include `Anaheim TMR
23', `Caloro', `Santa Fe Grande', `Tam Jalapano', `Tam Serrino Hidalgo', and
`Gold Spike'.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- LATE BLIGHT
See Potato and Tomato - Late Blight
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ROOT ROT
Cause: Phytophthora capsici, a fungus. This soil-inhabiting organism causes
root rot in pepper and eggplants and is most active in moist, warm weather.
Symptoms: At soil level, dark-greenish, water-soaked spots occur which often
girdle the stem, causing the plants to wilt and die. Foliage leaf spots
develop, which are often water-soaked and irregular in shape, later becoming a
light-brown shade. The fruit shows similar spots often enlarging to cover the
entire fruit, which later dries and becomes mummied.
Control:
1. Plant only in clean soil where the disease has not occurred.
2. Use disease-free seed.
3. Practice light irrigation and crop rotation.
4. Ridomil 2E can be used to control this problem. A full program consists
of a preplant application followed by two postplant applications. See product
label.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- VERTICILLIUM WILT
Cause: Verticillium dahliae, a fungus organism. The Verticillium wilt organism
is a widespread soil inhabitant which affects a wide range of herbaceous and
woody plants.
Symptoms: Infected plants show a stunting of growth accompanied by yellowing
and inward rolling of the leaves. The disease development on eggplant begins
with a yellowing of the lower leaves, reduced size and vascular discoloration.
It is seedborne in the eggplant. The fungus gains entry through the root
system, and progress in the plant is primarily through the vascular system.
Control:
1. Old crop remains should not be left on the field or added to the compost
pile, as this encourages future infections.
2. Crop rotation with nonsusceptible grasses and grains may be of some small
value, but nothing can really be done to eradicate this disease.
3. Avoid tomatoes and potatoes in any rotation, as these are favorite hosts.
4. There are as yet no resistant varieties.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was adapted by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments of questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S.
Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 97331.
---------------------------------------------------
From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 22:09:36 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:44:57 -0800
From: Brian Lo
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Cucumber Pickles
CUCUMBER for PICKLING
Cucumis sativus
(See also file on cucumbers for fresh market)
VARIETIES (approximately 50-60 days to start of hand harvest and 60-70 days to
machine harvest in the Willamette Valley).
Processors determine varieties to be grown. Brining quality (firmness,
color), length:width ratio, seed development rate, fruit appearance, disease
resistance and yield are primary considerations. Varieties suggested for
direct market and U-Pick operations are:
Hand harvest, black spine types: Pioneer, Bounty. White spine:
Calypso, Regal, Cross Country, Flurry M, FanciPack, Blitz, Carolina, Tripleme-
ch, Quest, Duke.
Machine harvest, determinate vine types: Napoleon, Vlaspik, Castlepik,
Sunseeds 3509. Semi, or in-determinate types: Lafayette, Calypso, Quest,
Fanci Pack, Flurry M, Cross Country, Regal, Triplemech (all with multiple
disease resistance and white spine). For trial: Duke, Premier, Score, Royal,
(all white spine, with multiple disease resistance); Peto H-19 Little Leaf,
also white spine).
Parthenocarpic (needing no pollination) varieties FOR TRIAL ONLY: Anka,
Parmel, Arena, Adonis; County Fair (multiple disease resistance, and seedless
when isolated from other cucumbers).
SEED COMPANIES
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Bejo Seeds, 1323 E. Fir St. Mount Vernon WA 98273
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Nunhems Seed Corp. POB 18, Lewisville, ID 83431-0018. ph:208/754-8669
Park Seed Co. Cokesbury Road, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
SOILS
Pickling cucumbers can be grown on a wide range of soils if the soils
are well drained and have about 2-3% organic matter, and a high level of
fertility. Irrigation is essential to maintain good soil moisture and to
obtain high quality fruit. Avoid heavy soils or those easily compacted. Use
a soil test to determine the nutrient status and pH.
For machine harvest, avoid clay soils since clay can seriously dirty the
fruit under wet conditions. Choose fields that are rectangular for efficiency
of machine harvest. Avoid fields enclosed by tree rows that limit air
movement, since this may provide an environment conducive to foliar and fruit
diseases.
TEMPERATURE
Recent research indicates that temperature range for optimum cucumber
growth is 86-90 F. Night temperatures above 70 F. especially when combined
with moisture stress result in rapid seed development and softening of
internal tissues.
Minimum soil temperature required for germination of this crop is 60 F.
with the optimum between 70 and 95 F. Pickling cucumbers are sensitive to
cool soil conditions. Under such conditions, damping-off can seriously reduce
stands, and seedling growth may be very slow.
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Cucumber seed numbers approximately 17,600 per pound, except Little Leaf
types which are smaller, numbering about 32,000 per pound. Use treated seed.
Pickling cucumbers can be particularly sensitive to damping-off problems.
Proper seed treatments can dramatically improve stands.
Some seed companies offer primed seed. Growers may also send seed to
specialty companies that will prime seed for them on request. New develop-
ments in seed priming (solid matrix priming) offer advantages not available
until very recently. Although primed seed may emerge earlier and more
uniformly, reducing certain production risks, these advantages may, or may not
translate into earlier harvests, higher yields or better quality. Primed seed
has limited storage life.
SEEDING
Approximately 60-70 days are required between seeding and machine har-
vest. Sequential plantings are necessary for orderly harvest. Heat-unit
systems to schedule plantings are of limited use. Processing company fieldmen
will determine schedules appropriate to processing needs.
Cucumbers for pickling are planted from about mid May through June.
Fields intended for hand harvest are planted as soon as weather permits with
subsequent planting dates left largely up to the grower. Fields for machine
harvest are planted on a tight schedule to fit product grade requirements,
processing capabilities and harvesting machinery availability
Pickling cucumbers varieties are always direct-seeded. Seed carefully
at a depth l/2 to l in. depending on soil moisture. For hand harvest plan-
tings use about 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. of seed per acre aiming or populations of
about 20,000 plants per acre.
Limited research on the economics of combining hand and machine harvest
indicate that plant populations for such fields should be the same as for
fields intended for machine harvest only.
Use about 6-9 lbs. of seed per acre and populations of 75,000 to 85,000
plants per acre for plantings intended for once-over (destructive) machine
harvest. Generally 1 lb of seed produces 12000-15000 plants under good
conditions.
Final Spacing: Recommended
Between Rows Within Row Population
for hand harvest 4-5 feet 6-8 inches 18,000-20,000
(300 to 450 square
inches per plant)
for machine harvest 18-28 inches, 3-4 inches indeterminate
(84-90 inch headers) (3 or 4 rows types:
per bed) 75,000-85,000
determinate
types:
85,000-120,000
Little Leaf
35,000-40,000
Note: 74 square inches per plant spacing results in approximately
85,000 plants/Acre
WINDBREAKS
Where needed, windbreaks are often overlooked as a crop protection aid.
In general, close windbreaks, even between every row, give the best wind
protection and may moderate the crop micro-climate enough to promote faster
plant growth. Where winter cover crops have been employed, it would be a good
practice to leave strips of the cover crop as windbreaks. In this case, the
strips for the plant beds can be prepared by rototilling, leaving windbreak
strips between the plant rows.
Establishment of a windbreak crop in the previous fall will insure
enough growth to become effective as a windbreak by spring planting time.
Seed grain thickly, 2-3 seeds per inch. This requires about 10 lbs. of
barley, 9 lbs. of wheat, or 8 lbs. of rye to seed grain rows 12 feet apart.
Spring grains such as barley may be useful if planted in February in eastern
Oregon.
Windbreaks can be removed by mowing, tilling, or an appropriate herb-
icide once their useful life is over.
FERTILIZER
Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses
are to be realized. These practices include use of recommended varieties,
selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease and insect control, good
seed bed preparation, proper seeding methods, and timely harvest.
Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other
cultural practices, crop response from fertilizer may not always be accurately
predicted. Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of specific
crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of applica-
tion.
The fertilizer program should insure adequate levels of all nutrients.
Optimum fertilization is essential for top quality, yields, and returns.
Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs. The OSU Extension Service agent in your county can
provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil sample bags and informa-
tion sheets.
Recommendations are based on a row spacing of 60". With decreased row
spacings fertilizer rates should be increased.
Western Oregon:
NITROGEN (N)
For fields intended for hand-harvested plantings rates of 80 to 150 lb
N/A are suggested with the lower rates of N being applied when legumes were
grown the preceding year or a green manure crop is incorporated into the soil
prior to planting. Apply one-half the nitrogen at or just prior to planting
and the rest when vines begin to "run".
For machine harvested fields nitrogen rates of 60 to 100 lbs appear to
be adequate. All the nitrogen may be applied at, or just prior to planting.
Determinate vine cultivars may produce highest yields at the higher N rates
per acre without danger of excessive vine growth.
Exercise care in nitrogen fertilization and irrigation. Excess applica-
tions of either may result in viney plant growth which interferes with bee
pollination and machine harvest, and promotes foliar and fruit diseases,
resulting in reduced fruit set, loss of small pickles in machine harvest, and
an increase in fruit disorders.
Although plant populations are much higher for machine harvested fields
than hand-picked fields, the machine-harvested fields have a much shorter
production period, generally being harvested once destructively. Fields
intended to be hand-picked several times before a machine harvest would have
to have nitrogen managed differently.
Pickling cucumbers are sensitive to fertilizer burn. If the application
of N plus potash (K2 O) exceeds 50 lb/A, there is danger of seedling injury
from the fertilizer if it is all banded at planting time. There is less
danger if the band application is split into two bands. The danger is
aggravated as the band comes closer to the seed, and is greater with sandy
than with finer textured soil. Immediate irrigation at the first sign of burn
should reduce further injury. There is more possibility of damage to seed-
lings on acid soils where the pH is below 5.5.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at planting for vigorous early
seedling growth. Bands should be located 2" to the side and 2" below the
seed. Phosphorus management would be the same for hand and machine harvested
fields.
If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of
for P reads (ppm): phosphate (P2 O5 (lb/A):
0 to 15 120-150
l5 to 60 90-120
over 60 60-90
In some areas, a diluted phosphoric acid solution sprayed in a 1-2 inch
wide band directly over the seed row has shown to reduce crusting, improve
phosphorus nutrition of the crop and increase yield. The benefit of this
treatment would be most likely to occur with early plantings on cool soils.
POTASSIUM (K)
Potassium for both hand and machine harvested fields should be applied
before planting or banded at planting time. Amounts above 40 lb K2 O/A should
be broadcast and worked into the seedbed. See statements on fertilizer
banding under "NITROGEN". Potassium management would be the same for hand and
machine harvested fields.
If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of
for P reads (ppm): potash K2 O (lb/A):
0 to 75 100-150
75 to 150 60-100
150 to 200 40-60
over 200 0
SULFUR (S)
Include 20-30 lb S/A in the annual fertilizer program for vine crops. S
is sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as
N, P, and K but may not be present in sufficient quantity.
Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate. Fertilizer materials supply
sulfur in the form of sulfate and elemental S. Elemental S must convert to
sulfate in the soil before the S becomes available to plants. The conversion
of elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh)
material in warm moist soil.
Sulfur in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time. Some S
fertilizer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an aci-
difying effect on soil.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
When the soil test value is below 1.5 meq Mg/100g of soil or when
calcium (Ca) is ten times more than the Mg, apply 10-15 lb Mg/A banded at
planting. If Mg deficiency symptoms appear, spray with 10 lb Epsom salts in
100 gals of water/A.
Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material
and will reduce soil acidity. Dolomite should be incorporated into the
seedbed at the rate of 1-1 1/2 T/A.
BORON (B)
In general, boron deficiencies are uncommon. If the soil test value for
B is less than 1 ppm, an application of 3 lb B/A is suggested. Boron should
be applied uniformly to the field as a spray or broadcast. Never band B
fertilizer. Cucumbers are sensitive to excess Boron.
ZINC (Zn)
Zinc deficiencies are uncommon in Willamette Valley soils. When the
soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected and 4 lb Zn/A should
be included in the fertilizer band.
LIME
Experimental work has shown that vine crops will produce good yields
over a fairly wide range of soil acidity. Lime applications are suggested
when the soil pH is 5.6 or below, or when calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq
Ca/100g of soil. Optimum pH is between 5.8 and 7.0.
The rate of lime application can be estimated from the following OSU SMP
buffer table.
If the OSU SMP buffer Apply this amount of
test for lime reads: lime (T/A):
Below 5.2 4-5
5.2 - 5.6 3-4
5.6 - 5.9 2-3
5.9 - 6.2 1-2
The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.
Lime should be mixed into the soil at least several weeks before plan-
ting. A lime application is effective over several years.
Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.5) and a
low pH (below 5.5). This condition can be caused by the application of
acidifying fertilizer. In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH
of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the
soil. This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered follow-
ing recent applications of most N fertilizer materials. Acidifying fertiliz-
ers also have a "long term" acidifying effect on soil which is cumulative and
leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings.
Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some-
times record low pH and high SMP buffer values. In such cases, a light
application of 1-2 T/A of lime should suffice to neutralize soil acidity.
For acid soils low in Mg (less than 0.8 meq Mg/100g of soil), 1 T/A of
dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source. Dolomite and ground lime stone have
about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity.
The possibility of seedling injury from the band application of ferti-
lizer is less when the soil pH is 5.6 or above. Some Willamette Valley
experiments have shown decreased uptake of phosphorus from band applications
of phosphorus when the pH approaches 5.5.
Lime applications should be broadcast, preferably in the fall, and
incorporated into the seedbed. Do not plow lime down leaving the surface soil
unlimed.
Fertilizer Guide #2, "Liming Materials for Oregon", which is available
from your local OSU Extension Office, provides additional information lime.
Eastern Oregon:
At time of seeding, band the following:
Nitrogen: 40-60 (N) lb./acre
Phosphate: 100-150 (P205) lb/acre
Potash: 50-70 (K20) lb/acre
Just before the vines begin to spread, side-dress with 50-75 lb/acre
of nitrogen. For machine harvested pickling cucumbers, see notes under the
"Western Oregon" section above.
These fertilizer recommendations are based on research conducted by
O.S.U. Horticulture and Soils Department and Extension faculty, and are
quoted from O.S.U. Fertilizer Guide FG 68.
FLOWERING AND POLLINATION
Depending on cultivar, pickling cucumbers plants may bear separate male
and female flowers on the same plant (monoecious), only female flowers (gyno-
ecious), or male flowers and perfect flowers (male and female organs in the
same flower) i.e. andromonoecious. Most modern cultivars have plants that
bear only female flowers (gynoecious), so seeds of plants that are monoecious
(bearing separate male and female flowers on the same plant) are mixed into
the seed lot (usually 10 to 15%) to allow pollination. These seeds are
usually dyed a different color from the seeds of the cultivar being planted.
Bees are needed to transfer pollen from the male flowers to the female
flowers, thus making fruit set possible. It is recommended that 1-2 honey bee
colonies of 30,000 to 50,000 bees each be introduced for every acre during the
blooming period. High population plantings intended for machine harvest
require 2-3 colonies for the 1-2 week period coinciding with peak bloom.
Naturally occurring bee populations are not considered to be adequate since
their presence may not coincide with the full blooming period, or their
numbers may be too low. Furthermore, the new gynoecious pickling varieties
are less attractive to bees. Information from the midwest indicates that
pickling cucumbers require at least 15 bee visits to each flower for normal
pollination and fruit set, and maximum yields, although some of the new
all-female varieties may set as much as one-third of their yield without being
pollinated.
Another reason for a high bee population at first bloom is that pollina-
tion of flowers in the crown area over a short period (1-2 days) will result
in the desired multiple fruit per plant and a range of usable fruit sizes. If
pollination of flowers occurs over an extended period of time (several days)
the later pollinated flowers will not develop until the first pollinated fruit
is removed. This results in the often observed single fruit per plant in the
crown area with all other fruit development stopped.
Hives should be placed at the edge of the field after the first blooms
are visible so that no point in the field is more than 200-300 yards away from
a colony. Placing bees prior to flowering may result in the bees establishing
themselves on nearby crops thus reducing their effectiveness in cucumber
pollination. Research indicates that total yield increases resulting from
good bee management can range from 25 to 50 percent. Pickling cucumber
growers in the midwest are reported to have experienced an average increase of
30 percent from effective use of bees.
IRRIGATION
Irrigation requirements depend on the length of harvest. Some fields
may be hand harvested 10-12 times and need to be kept growing adequately.
Ten to fifteen inches of water may be required depending on seasonal variation
and variety. Irrigations need to be coordinated with picking schedules.
Adequate, uniform water applications are necessary to produce high
quality fruit. Water stress contributes to higher incidence of nubs and
crooks, and reduced fruit length. Water stress coupled with high night
temperatures also results in rapid seed development and softening of cucumber
internal tissues.
Field observations in fields intended for machine harvest indicate that
as harvest approaches (when fruit reaches a mean grade of 2.0), irrigation and
soil moisture can have a dramatic effect on fruit sizing. When irrigation is
applied at this time, especially during warm temperatures, fruit grade size
can increase by 0.2 of a grade per day, necessitating harvest in 2 to 2.5
days. Conversely, if fruit sizing needs to be slowed or delayed, irrigation
should be delayed, as long as it does not result in fruit wilting or crop
damage.
Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.
HARVESTING AND HANDLING
In western Oregon, pickling cucumbers are harvested from about mid July
to mid October. The prime harvest season is from the end of July to the end
of September.
Oregon plantings are mostly hand harvested at this time. Different
prices are paid for machine and hand harvested fruit. Processing requirements
are set according to variety and desired product. Pickling cucumbers are
graded by diameter. One processor grades: Grade #1: cucumbers less than 1";
grade #2: 1"-1.5"; grade #3: 1.5"-2". Fruit over 2" diameter is rejected by
some or accepted up to 2.5" at minimal value for a maximum percentage per load
by others. Nubs and crooks are also graded separately and paid for at a
minimal price.
Approximate average yields of pickling cucumbers are about 12 tons per
acre for hand harvested fields that are picked about 10-12 times. Good yields
are approximately 15-18 tons/acre. Where contracts are on a tonnage basis, and
because of labor constraints, growers may over-plant acres so as to fulfill
their contracts with less (7-10) pickings.
For highest returns, thoroughly harvest marketable fruit at regular
intervals. Remove oversize fruit so later fruit can develop properly. During
warm weather conditions, pickling cucumbers may grow very rapidly and it is
important to shorten harvest intervals. Pickling cucumbers can have a 40 %
weight increase in 24 hours, especially when fields are well irrigated (see
IRRIGATION section above), and may depreciate in value by 5 to 15 % over the
same period.
Machine harvested yields are approximately 6 tons/acre with good yields
about 10 tons/acre. Yield is greatly dependent on the grade of the harvested
product, so tonnage figures are a poor indicator of dollar return per acre.
New harvesters (FMC) have demonstrated the capability of picking a higher
percentage of small fruit and a better dollar return per acre.
For once-over, destructive, machine harvest, the proper time is a major
decision. Maximum dollar return per acre, and maximum value per ton, do not
occur at the same time. Harvest time must be based on accurate field samp-
ling. The processing company may dictate time of harvest based on their
requirements for cucumber sizes. The grower must establish an agreement with
the processor on time of harvest and grade values based on interactions of the
type of machine harvester, variety, plant population and time of harvest.
Machine harvesting and bulk handling capability may be limiting, and would
have to be considered.
Machine harvest with a Wilde or Byron harvester is usually begun when
the average graded weight of harvested pickles is about 2.5. With the variety
Calypso, this occurs just when the grade 4 pickles (oversize) reaches between
5 and 10 percent. The Raven Pickle Harvester, a harvesting machine built by
Jerry's Welding of Ravenna, Michigan, has an oversize eliminator that sorts
oversize cucumbers and puts them back on the field.
The new FMC harvester which is designed to pick a higher percentage of
small fruit may allow an earlier harvest start and a wider picking window.
The price for small fruit is an important factor in this.
It is important to point out that processors will differ in their grade
requirements, and varieties differ in their size-grade distribution, and the
rate of change of grade distribution with each day's delay of harvest.
Varieties also differ in the quality of their large and oversize cucumbers.
These factors affect the value of any given load. In the Willamette Valley,
this can result in a change of $100.00 per day per acre in gross returns with
the variety Calypso and similar lines.
Machine-harvested pickling cucumbers must be washed and cooled immed-
iately after harvest to reduce losses due to mechanical damage from the
machine and soil abrasion. Portable washing equipment is commercially
available in 3000 and 5000 gallon capacity tanks by some of the manufacturers
of harvesting machines.
STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):
Pickling cucumbers have been successfully hydrocooled under experimental
conditions and then held 4 days at 40 F They should be utilized immediately
after removal from cold storage.
HANDLING
Pickling cucumbers are either hand or machine picked into large bins for
delivery to processors. Care should be exercised in minimizing mechanical
damage and protecting loads from heat build-up to minimize spoilage and
maintain brining quality.
PEST CONTROL FOR PICKLING CUCUMBER
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.
______________________________________________________________________________
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION
Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide. In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant. The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device. Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant. Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.
Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.
Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix: Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated
charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural
vermiculite. If severe dustiness is a problem, add a
small amount of water. Apply 1 ft3 of mixture/600 ft.
of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A. Fill the
seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press
with a press wheel.
WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY
Weed management in cucurbits represents planning and integration of several
practices. Crop rotations and, therefore, field selection containing control-
lable weeds must be achieved before planting. Many growers use a stale
seedbed technique followed by cultivation, except in excessively wet years.
Row spacings that enhance canopy selectively controls weeds within the crop
row. In eastern Oregon, rye windbreaks often are planted between rows and
incorporated during the last cultivation.
______________________________________________________________________________
STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.
1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve
maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures
and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.
2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed
will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.
3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the
field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed
weeds.
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming
Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to qickly sear the
weeds, but not consume them with flame.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paraquat 0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A
Gramoxone Extra
(see remarks)
Restricted-use pesticide. Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. Wearing
protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. Apply
during or after planting, but before crop emergence. Add a nonionic
surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
insoluble precipitates. Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not
apply preplant or pre-emergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media. (Acts as contact;
absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
living cells.)
______________________________________________________________________________
PREPLANT INCORPORATED
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide 5 to 6 lb ai/A
Prefar
Apply preplant and incorporate 0.5 to 1 inch deep simultaneously or
immediately after application by cross-disking or using a PTO rotary
tiller. Sometimes the first flush of weeds must be controlled with
cultivation before herbicide begins to control grass. Consult label for
planting sensitive crops within 18 months. Do not apply more than once
every 12 months. (Inhibits roots of seedlings).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide + 4 to 6 lb
naptalam +
Prefar + Alanap 2 to 4 lb ai/A
Note information above for bensulide and below for naptalam. Use lower
rates on sandy soils.
______________________________________________________________________________
PREEMERGENCE
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
naptalam 3 to 4 lb ai/A
Alanap
Apply immediately after seeding to moist soil and sprinkler irrigate
with 0.5 to 1 inch water or mechanically incorporate in 1 to 1.5 inches
soil with spiketooth harrow to place herbicide in germination zone. Use
lower rates on sandy soils. Controls primarily broadleaf weeds.
(Reverses geotropism in roots).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ethalfluralin 1.12 to 1.69 lb ai/A
Curbit
Adjust rates depending on soil texture and organic matter. Apply only as
a postplant surface treatment before weed emergence. Activate with 0.5
inch irrigation within 2 to 5 days or cultivate soil surface above seed.
Crop injury may occur with excessive rainfall or irrigation or if
seeding depth is too shallow. Do not graze, nor apply to wet or cloddy
soils. Note replanting restrictions for sugar beets and red beets listed
on label. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily in shoots.)
______________________________________________________________________________
POSTEMERGENCE
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim 0.19 to 0.28 lb ai/A
Poast
Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
the label. Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resistant
grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas quack-
grass can be suppressed. Do not within 14 days of harvest, nor exceed 3
pints/A per season. (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell membranes,
and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
POSTEMERGENCE LAY-BY TREATMENTS
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin 0.5 to 0.75 lb ai/A
Treflan
Apply as a directed spray between rows when crop has 3 to 4 true leaves
and incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep, using rolling cultivators set to
throw soil towards plants in the row. Spray only 1 time per year.
Consult label for restrictions on planting sensitive crops within 12
months. Possible injury may result in cool soils and from carryover
from repeated use without adequate rotation. (Inhibits mitosis,
primarily in shoots).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ethalfluralin 1.12 to 1.69 lb ai/A
Curbit
Adjust rates depending on soil textures and organic matter. Apply in
bands between rows after planting or transplanting. Activate with 0.5
inch irrigation within 2 to 5 days or cultivate soil 1 to 2 inches deep.
Do not graze or apply to wet cloddy soils. Note replanting restrictions
for sugar beets and red beets listed on label. (Inhibits mitosis,
primarily in shoots.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA 9 lb ai/A
Dacthal
Performs poorly in western Oregon and Washington. Elsewhere, apply
after plants have 4 to 5 true leaves following a cultivation and
weeding, but before any new weeds become established. Results are
improved if rainfall or overhead irrigation occurs immediately after
application. Consult label for restrictions on planting sensitive crops
within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT CONTROL
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, including diazinon - 0.5 lb spray
Bean aphid
Aphis fabae malathion - 1.25 lb
Dull black plant louse that colo- Phosdrin - 0.25 lb
nizes during latter part of the
season. Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
Melon aphid Dibrom - 1 lb
Aphis gossypii
Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
Small plant louse, yellowish to
dark green in color. Pale forms endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
have dark mottling. Colonize
plants late in the season. NOTE: Bees are important in cross
pollination of cucumbers. Take
Potato aphid precautions to avoid poisoning
Macrosiphum euphorbiae them.
Green to pinkish plant louse that
colonizes plants. Transmits virus.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cucumber beetles methoxychlor - 1 to 3 lb
Small, slender, greenish-yel- diazinon dust - 0.5 lb
low beetles with three promi-
nent black stripes on back. At- malathion - 1 to 1.5 lb
tack young plants. Larvae feed
on roots and underground carbaryl - 1 lb
parts of stems.
Dibrom - 1 lb
OR
endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Yellowish-green, black-spotted
beetle, common to western Guthion - 0.5 lb
Oregon and Southwestern
Washington. Damage usually Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
limited to young plants.
Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
Many species
Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
Small to large larvae that feed
on foliage and stems. Sevin bait 5% pellets - 1.0 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cabbage looper Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
Trichoplusia ni
Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb
Pale green larvae with white
stripes. Move in looping manner. Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grasshoppers Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
Different species
Nosema locustae - use as
manufacturer directs
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seed corn maggot Seed Treatment
Delia platura Lorsban 50 SL - 1 oz ai/100 lb
of seed.
Small legless maggot that feeds on
and destroys germinating seeds.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Slugs metaldehyde baits. Do not con-
taminate edible plant parts.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites Kelthane 35W - 0.6 lb Do not
Tetranychus spp. feed or use EC formulations.
Tiny spiderlike animals that malathion - 1 to 1.9 lb
feed on plant juices causing
leaves to turn yellow and die. Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
Dibrom - 1 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan Telone II or C-17
Scutigerella immaculata
Small, white, centipede-like
animals in soil.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrips diazinon - 0.5 lb spray
Very small, slender insects. Pale Dibrom - 1 lb
green (young) to black (adults).
Feed on leaf surfaces. Surface feed-
ing causes leaves to appear silvery.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms diazinon - 3 to 4 lb active
Limonius spp. ingredient per acre. Broadcast
granuals or emulsifiable
Brown, jointed larvae of click formulations evenly on the soil
beetles. Kill young plants, surface and incorporate into
weaken older ones. the top 4-8 inches of soil.
Telone II or C-17
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE CONTROL
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
CUCUMBER -- ALTERNARIA LEAF SPOT (Fungus Leaf Spot)
Cause: A fungus, Ulocladium consortiole. Recent work in Washington has shown
this disease does not reduce yields under Washington conditions.
Symptoms: Small tan spots which turn dark brown on maturing. Often concentric
rings may be noticed in the older spots giving them a "bull's-eye" appearance.
Coalescing spots may involve large areas of the leaf. Under Northwest condi-
tions the fruit have not been attacked by this organism.
Control: Use one of the following sprays:
1. Bravo 720 at 2 to 3 pt/A in water to cover. May be applied by sprinkler
(see product label).
2. Mancozeb at 1.8 to 2.4 lb ai/A. Do not apply within 5 days of harvest.
3. Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply within 5 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- ANGULAR LEAF SPOT
Cause: Pseudomonas syringae pv. lachrymans lacrymans, a bacterium. The
bacterium overwinters in diseased plant material and on the seed. It is spread
by rain, sprinkle irrigation, or on hands and clothing of workers. In recent
years the incidence of the disease has been reduced by the use of tolerant
varieties.
Symptoms: Leaves, stems, and fruits may be affected. The leaf spot is irregu-
lar in shape, angular, with a water-soaked appearance. Bacteria may ooze from
the spots in droplets which dry to a white residue. The water-soaked area
later turns gray and dies. Often the dead tissue is torn away from the healthy
portion of the leaf leaving large irregular holes.
The water-soaked spots on the fruits are smaller and circular. Lesions are
usually superficial, but the injury may permit the entrance of soft-rot
organisms.
The affected tissue becomes white and may crack open.
Control: The following control program is a combination of those used in other
areas.
1. Plant resistant varieties. Pickling varieties `Regal', `Royal',
`Pioneer', `Express', `Calypso', `Cross Country', `Frontier', `Pioneer', and
`Express' have shown tolerance under Washington and Oregon conditions. The use
of these varieties is usually sufficient under our conditions. The slicing
varieties `Victory', `Bel Aire', `Raider', `Encore', `Poinsett 76', `Slice
Nice', `Dasher II', `Turbo', `Quest', and `Sprint-N' are resistant.
2. Stay out of wet, infected fields.
3. Application of fixed copper spray has reduced the spread of the disease,
but copper sprays have been reported to cause some stunting and leaf chlorosis
in Oregon. Several copper materials are available.
Residues:
Arasan--considered to be a nonfood use.
Captan--seed treatment, considered a nonfood use.
Coppers--exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- BACTERIAL WILT
Cause: Erwinia tracheiphila, a bacterium, which overwinters in the bodies of
the striped and 12-spotted cucumber beetles. In Oregon, the disease occurs on
cucumbers occasionally. The bacterium affects only plants belonging to the
cucumber family--cucumbers, muskmelons, pumpkins, squashes, gherkins, white
gourds, and a number of wild plants.
There is a very close relationship between the bacterium and the beetles--if
the beetles are eliminated so is the bacterium. The bacterium hibernates in
the digestive tract of a few beetles and in the spring finds its way through
the feces of the carriers to the young plant. It can enter the plant tissue
only through deep wounds such as injuries produced by feeding beetles, or
later in the season, following grasshopper invasion. The bacteria are not
carried in or on the seed.
When beetles chew on affected leaves, which they seem to prefer, their mouth
parts become contaminated with the bacteria, which are carried to the next
three or four plants on which the beetle feeds. Infection takes place only
when there is a film of water sufficient for the pathogen to reach the wound
in the inner leaf tissue.
The beetles do not migrate in rainy periods; the disease rarely is found where
the annual rainfall is over 45 inches or below 18 inches. Optimum average
daily temperatures for development of the disease are 52o to 60o F.
Symptoms: General wilting of the plant. Infection begins on one or a few
leaves which droop suddenly. The disease spreads from the foliage downward
into the petioles and stems until the plant has wilted and died. The fruit
also wilts and shrivels.
Control: Spraying or dusting to control the carrier beetles is effective.
See Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- CURLY TOP
Cause: A virus disease spread by the beet leafhopper and surviving from year
to year in perennial weed hosts.
Symptoms: Growth is retarded and the older leaves take on a tan-yellow color.
Terminal leaves are sometimes darker than normal, and the entire plant is
stunted. The few fruits produced are small, of poor quality, and abnormally
shaped.
Control:
1. Set out more plants than needed and remove diseased plants as soon as they
can be detected.
2. Partial shading will discourage movement of the leafhopper vector onto the
plants, thus reducing the possibility of infection.
3. There are no known resistant varieties.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- DAMPING-OFF
Cause: This disease is caused by the fungus Pythium ultimum, which lives in
the soil. It attacks seedlings of many different crops.
Symptoms: Seedlings may be attacked before they emerge or after they are up,
resulting in gaps and uneven stands. Young plants suddenly wilt and topple
over. Water-soaked lesions are apparent on the stems at the soil line. As the
seedlings mature, they become resistant to attack. The disease can be a
serious problem in cool, wet soils.
Control:
1. Delay planting until soil warms so as to increase seedling growth and
emergence.
2. Mulch soil to increase soil temperature.
3. Plant shallow to promote quick emergence and growth.
4. Treat seed with captan.
5. Treat seed with Apron FL 1.5 fl oz/cwt (Pacific Northwest states only).
6. Treat seed bed with Ridomil 2E.
Broadcast: Apply 4 to 8 pt Ridomil 2E/treated A at planting in 20 to 50 gal of
water.
Banded: Apply Ridomil 2E in a 7-inch band. Rates are calculated based on row
spacing and plant density according to the label.
Broadcast and incorporated: Apply 4 to 8 pt of Ridomil 2E/A as a broadcast
soil application in 20 to 50 gal of water and incorporate in the top 2 inches
of the soil. If beds are used, broadcast and incorporate prior to bedding.
Seed Treatment: Apply Anchor at 1.502/cwt seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- GUMMY STEM BLIGHT
See Squash - Black Rot or Gummy Stem Blight.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- MOSAIC
Cause: A virus disease spread by aphids and possibly cucumber beetles. The
virus overwinters in the seed of wild cucumber and in wild perennial milkweed,
ground cherry, and matrimonial vine.
Symptoms: Leaves are markedly mottled and wrinkled with yellow and green
blotches and edges cupped downward. Early season infection results in dwarfing
of the plants while later infections show the typical mosaic symptoms only on
later season growth following infection. The fruit develops raised wartlike
bumps with pale, whitish-green areas between, and has a bitter taste. Some
varieties of small, later fruits have a pale greenish-white appearance.
Control:
1. Remove all infected vines.
2. Remove wild cucumber vines, milkweed, and other susceptible weed hosts to
within 1,000 feet of the field if possible.
3. Control aphids by spraying or dusting.
4. In slicing cucumber varieties, `Niagara' is resistant. There is also some
tolerance to the virus in the following hybrids--`Burpee', `Surecrop',
`Gemini', `Marketmore', and `Sensation'. For pickling cucumbers, the varieties
`Calypso', `Picklemech', `Express', `MR-17', `SMR-18', `SMR-58', and `Pioneer'
have high tolerance and are recommended for planting.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- NEMATODE (Root-Knot)
See Tomato--Nematode (Root-Knot) for a further description of cause and
symptoms.
Control: Mocap 10E (20 lb/A) or Mocap EC (1 to 1.5 qt/A) in a band 12 to 15
inches wide on the row at or just before planting. Do not use a seed furrow
treatment.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- POWDERY MILDEW
Cause: A fungus, Erysiphe cichoracearum.
Symptoms: At first tiny, white superficial spots appear on the leaves and
stem. The spots become powdery white and expand to cover all portions of the
plant. Sometimes the mycelium becomes covered with small black spots about the
size of a pinhead. Usually the disease occurs in scattered spots in the field.
Control: A 2-year rotation out of cucurbits is helpful. The varieties `Dasher
II', `Turbo', `Calypso', `Cross Country', `Flurry', `Royal', `Regal', `Quest',
`Cherokee', `Marketmore', and `Pioneer' are resistant to powdery mildew.
Usually the disease is not severe enough to warrant a spray program. Under
greenhouse conditions sulfur dust, Benlate, or wettable sulfur will control
the disease. CAUTION-- Sulfur can cause injury to cucumbers, especially when
temperature exceeds 85 F. Benlate may be used as a field spray.
Benlate Warning: Resistant strains of many fungus pathogens have become
troublesome when Benlate is used exclusively in a spray schedule. To reduce
the possibility of Benlate resistance, alternate Benlate sprays with sprays of
non-benzimitazole fungicides.
Field Spray -- Bayleton 50 WP or 50 DF. Apply 2 to 4 oz/A in a minimum of 10
gal of water by ground or 5 gal of water by air. Begin when disease first
appears and repeat at 14-day intervals. Do not apply more than 16 oz of
Bayleton 50 WP or 50 DF per season. Bayleton will not give control of
Sphaeroteca fuliginea.
Residues: Benlate--0.125 to .250 lb ai/A ground application only. Tolerance
1.0 ppm. Limitation 0.250 lb ai/A. No time limits.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- ROOT ROT
See Squash--Root Rot.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- SCAB
Cause: A fungus, Cladosporium cucumerinum, which overwinters in cucumber
debris, in cracks of greenhouses, and on the seed.
Symptoms: The fungus causes severe injury on the fruit, which can be infected
at all stages of growth, but which is particularly susceptible while young. At
first a sticky substance is exuded in drops as if the trouble were the result
of an insect puncture. Spots then gradually turn gray, become slightly sunken,
and enlarge to about inch in diameter. The canker gradually grows darker and
the tissue collapses further into the cucumber until a pronounced cavity is
formed, which is lined with a dark-green velvety layer of the fruiting fungus.
The first symptom on foliage is the appearance of a slightly water-soaked
paler-green area between the veins, as well as on them. These spots usually
are numerous. Gradually the spots turn gray to white and become angular. The
fine veinlets in the spots may remain brown or tan and are distinct against
the white background. The dead tissue cracks, breaking away until the whole
leaf has a ragged appearance.
The spores are disseminated by insects, clothing, tools, and are blown long
distances in moist air. Host penetration takes place in less than 9 hours
following germination and visible infection in 3 days. Spore production may
occur on the fourth day.
Control: Use resistant varieties whenever available. Scab-resistant varieties
have been developed and include `Dasher II', `Raider', `Encore', `Sprint',
`Poinsett 76', `Turbo', `Regal', `Flurry', `Calypso', `Quest', `Gemini',
`Marketmore', `Pioneer', `SMR-58', and `SMR-18'. Commercial growers should
consult processors for the resistant varieties to be grown.
Spray -- 2 to 3 pt. of Bravo 720. Bravo may be applied through overhead
irrigation. See label for directions.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- SEED TREATMENT
Aids in control of seed decay and damping-off.
Thiram--0.75 of 50 percent material/lb of seed. Do not apply more than 2.25
oz actual/100 lb of seed (dry or slurry). Considered to be a nonfood use.
Captan .7 to 1.6 oz ai (slurry) or 1.5 to 2.25 oz ai (dry)/100 lb of seed.
Considered to be a nonfood use.
Apron FL 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed.
Anchor at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUCUMBER -- WHITE MOLD
Cause: Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, a fungus.
White mold is a widespread but relatively unimportant disease of cucumbers
grown in the field, but it has caused severe losses of vines and fruit grown
in greenhouses.
Symptoms: This disease occurs primarily as a stem blight or as a fruit rot.
Older vines are most often affected. Following the development of the white
cottony mold, the stem dries and becomes withered, and the small sclerotia
appear in the rotting tissues. Cucumber fruits affected are watery, soft, and
later develop sclerotia.
Control:
1. Rotate crops and deep plow to bury sclerotia.
2. Remove infected vines and fruit from the field and destroy.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was adapted by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments or questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S.
Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 9733l.
---------------------------------------------------
Subject: more on hummingbird flowers
Date: 11 Mar 92 02:58:38 GMT
>>Just becaust a flower is red doesn't mean it has nectar. My biggest
> I also poked all sorts of things into the flowers and disected lots of them
> and never was able to find anything in the way of nectar in them. I think
> it is all a myth.
Plants have some neat little games they play with pollinators that are
after nectar. Remember, nectar represents a lot of sugar that isn't
going to do the plant any good at all (except reproducing the next generation),
and it's hard work pushing all those little electrons up energy hills
with photons to make sugar. So each molecule of sugar represents a
"cost" to the plant.
Plants "try" to maximize the number of pollinator visits they get for
the amount of sugar they put out. Problems: butterflies will respond
to much lower concentrations of sugar than bees will. Bees respond
to much lower sugar concentrations than hummingbirds. So being a
hummingbird flower is much more wasteful of sugar (which represents
energy that could be used for growth) than being a butterfly flower.
So: how do you minimize the cost of this sugar? Bankers didn't
invent fraud, plants did.
Plan 1. If your flower looks a lot like another flower that's blooming
at the same time, and has nectar, you may not need to make nectar. The
pollinators may make some dumb mistakes, and you get your flowers
pollinated free.
Plan 2. Pollinators will hang around an inflorescence (flower cluster)
as long as there's nectar every once in a while. Maybe every 10th
flower. So if you have 50 flowers in a cluster, maybe only 5 of them
are making nectar at any one time. And the flowers making nectar
are switched around, so pollinators have to keep moving around looking
for the nectar. After all, if one flower is a good meal, you might
as well go home instead of accidentally moving pollen around while
you're hunting for lunch...
If you want to find nectar, one of the best places to look is
at the base of the ovary. Usually the nectary is a small ring
of white tissue. Catch it at the right time, and it will be a
gooey ring of white tissue.
Re: Plantings to encourage wildlife (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: natives to attract wildlife
Date: 23 Apr 92 07:24:12 GMT
I just finished this late to hand out at Earth Day at the State Park
where I will be representing the California Native Plant Society and
selling Native plants. Thought it might be of interest and also
would appreciate any comments.
NATIVE PLANTS THAT PROVIDE WILDLIFE HABITAT
Unless mentioned otherwise, the following lists are regarding the
value of the seed, fruit or berry of the plant mentioned
TREES
Acer macrophyllum BIG-LEAF MAPLE Goldfinches, Bees, Raccoons
Aesculus californica CALIFORNICA BUCKEYE Hummingbirds
Alnus rhoombifolia WHITE ALDER Warblers, Goldfinches, Pine Siskins
Cedar Waxwings
Cornus nuttallii PACIFIC DOGWOOD Western Tanagers, Warblers, robins,
Thrushes, Woodpeckers, Tree Swallows, many others
Cupressus Governiana GOWEN'S CYPRESS Thrushes, Mockingbirds, Pigeons
Opossums, Coyotes
Juglans Hindsii BLACK WALNUT Jays, Pigeons, Squirrels
Lithocarpus densiflora TANBARK OAK Jays, Meadowlarks, Pheasants,
Pigeons, Titmice, Thrashers, Quail, Woodpeckers, Rabbits, Raccoons
Squirrels, Mice, Foxes
Pinus attenuata KNOBCONE PINE Chickadees, Doves, Finches, Jays,
Sparrows, Rabbits, Squirrels
Platanus racemosa CALIFORNIA SYCAMORE Goldfinches, Cedar Waxwings,
House, Purple finches, Pine Siskins, Red-Tailed Hawks, Woodpeckers
Populus fremontii FREMONT'S COTTONWOOD Foxes, Squirrels, Mice
Populus tremuloides QUAKING ASPEN Rabbits, Deer, Grouse, Opossum
Populus trichocarpa BLACK COTTONWOOD same, hairs on seeds used in
nesting materials
Pseudotsuga menziesii DOUGLAS FIR Deer, Squirrels, Woodrats
Quercus OAKS All species of oaks valuable to: Mallard, Clapper rails
Wooducks, Pheasants, Jays, Pigeons, Finches, Quail, Thrushes
Chickadees, Towhees, Grosbeaks, Nuthatches, Raccoons, Foxes
Also provide shelter, nesting sites and many insects for birds
Sequoia sempervirens COAST REDWOOD Jays, Pigeons, Wrens, Chickadees
Torreya californica CALIFORNIA NUTMEG Squirrels
SHRUBS
Adenostoma fasciculatum CHAMISE Bees, Goldfinches, Grosbeaks,
Raccoons, Deer, Woodrats, Mice
Amelancher pallida SERVICE BERRY Thrushes, other birds and mammals
Arctostaphylos MANZANITA Excellent for Quail, Doves, Mockingbirds
Robins, Thrushes, Cedar Waxwings, Grosbeaks, Finches, Towhees,
Sparrows, Raccons, Skunks, Squirrels, Coyotes, Deer, Hummingbirds
Atriplex lentiformis QUAIL BUSH Quail, Finches, Towhees, Sparrows,
Rabbits. Good shelter
Baccharis pilularis COYOTE BRUSH Deer, Butterflies
Berberis nevinii NEVIN'S BARBERRY Quail, Doves, Mockingbirds,
Robins, Thrushes, Cedar Waswings, Grosbeaks, Finches, Towhees,
Sparrows Thrashers. Also good shelter
Calycanthus occidentalis SPICE BUSH Robins, Thrushes, Pheasants
Ceanothus WILD LILAC Quail, Hummingbirds, Bush-Tits, Mockingbirds,ds
Thrashers, Thrushes, Warblers, Grosbeaks, Finches, Juncos,
Rabbits, Squirrels, Bees, Butterflies, Hummingbirds
Clematis lasiantha and ligustifolia Hummingbirds
Cercis occidentalis REDBUD Goldfinches and Hummingbirds
Cornus stolonifera CREEK DOGWOOD Mockingbirds, Sparrows, Mourning
Doves, Cedar Waxwings, Woodpeckers, Pigeons, Raccoons, Deer
Diplacus aurantiacus ORANGE MONKEYFLOWER Hummingbirds
Diplacus puniceus RED BUSH MONKEYFLOWER same
Diplacus longiflorus SOUTHERN MONKEYFLOWER same
Eriogonum fasciculatum CALIFORNIA BUCKWHEAT Oregon Juncos, Towhees,
Squirrels, Bees, Butterflies
Galvezia speciosa ISLAND SNAPDRAGON Hummingbirds
Gaultheria shallon SALAL Thrashers, Chickadees, Thrushes, Finches
Heteromeles arbutifolia TOYON Cedar Waxwing, Towhees, Quail,
Mourning Doves, Wrentits, Finches, Robins, Pigeons, Western
Bluebirds
Lonicera hispidula CALIFORNIA HONEYSUCKLE Finches, Hermit Thrushes,
Rabbits, Hummingbirds
Lonicera interrupta same
Lonicera involucrata TWINBERRY same
Lupinus albifrons SILVER LUPINE Quail, Squirrels
Mahonia aquifolium OREGON GRAPE Cedar Waxwings, Robins, Pheasants
Mockingbirds, Finches, Deer. Good shelter
Myrica californica CALIFORNIA WAX MYRTLE Cedar Waxwings, Chickadees,
Towhees, Orioles, Wrentits, Warblers
Osmoronia cerasiformis OSO BERRY Mockingbirds, Pigeons
Prunus ilicifolia HOLLYLEAF CHERRY birds, small mammals and deer
Quercus durata LEATHER OAK same
Rhamnus californica CALIFORNICA COFFEEBERRY Pigeons, Jays, Robins,
Mockingbirds, Thrashers, Cedar Waxwings, Purple Finches
Rhamnus crocea REDBERRY same
Rhamnus ilicifolia HOLLYLEAF REDBERRY same, plus Quail
Rhus integrifolia LEMONADE BERRY Quail, Flickers, Finches, Pheasants
Juncos, Jays, Mockingbirds, Robins, Thrushes, Finches, Grosbeaks
Catbirds, Chickadees, Towhees
Rhus ovata SUGARBUSH same
Ribes aureum GOLDEN CURRANT Many birds eat berries, hummingbirds
Ribes californicum CALIFORNICA CURRANT same
Ribes malvaceum CHAPPARAL CURRANT hummingbirds
Ribes menziesii Quail, Thrashers, Robins, Thrushes, Finches, Towhees
Ribes sanguineum RED FLOWERED CURRENT Hummingbirds
Ribes speciosum FUCHSIA FLOWERED GOOSEBERRY same
Rosa californica CALIFORNICA ROSE Pine Siskins. Goldfinches, Quail,
Thrushes, Pheasants, Raccoons, good nesting sites
Rubus vitifolius WESTERN BLACKBERRY good for fruit and cover
Salix WILLOW Warblers, Thrushes, Fox sparrows, Finches
Salvia clevelandii CLEVELANDS SAGE Hummingbirds, Sparrows
Salvia leucophylla PURPLE SAGE same
Salvia mellifera BLACK SAGE same, also bees and finches
Salvia sonomensis CREEPING SAGE same
Sambucus glauca CALIFORNICA ELDERBERRY Pigeons, Wren-Tits, Mock-
ingibrds, Finches, Towhees, Robins, Deer
Symphoricarpos albus SNOWBERRY Hummingibrds, Mockingbirds, Towhees
Finches, Grosbeaks, Cedar Waxwings, Deer. Good cover
Trichostemma lanatum WOOLY BLUE CURLS Hummingbirds
Vaccinum ovatum HUCKLEBERRY Pigeons, Mourning Doves, Foxes, Raccoons
Opossum, Rabbits, Deer
Vitus californica CALIFORNICA WILD GRAPE all birds
PERENNIALS
Aquilegia formosa WESTERN COLUMBINE Hummingbirds, seeds eaten
by small birds
Aquilegia exima same
Cynoglossum grande WESTERN HOUNDS TOUNGE Hummingbirds
Delphinium cardinale SCARLET LARKSPUR Hummingbirds, Finches
Delphinium nudicale same
Eriogonum species BUCKWHEATS Butterflies, bees
Fragaria californica BEACH STRAWBERRY berries good food source
Heuchera maxima ISLAND ALUM ROOT Hummingbirds
Heuchera macrantha ALUM ROOT same
Iris species seeds eaten by birds
Keckiella corymbosa BUSH PENSTEMON Hummingbirds
Keckiella cordifolia HEARTLEAF PENSTEMON same
Keckiella ternatus SAME
Mimulus cardinalis SCARLET MONKEYFLOWER Hummingbirds
Monardella macrantha MOUNTAIN PENNYROYAL Hummingbirds
Monardella villosa COYOTE MINT Hummingbirds
Penstemon centranthifolious, P. labrosus, P. newberryi, P. barbatus,
P. clevelandii Hummingbirds
P. heterophyllus, P. spectablis, P. speciosus, etc. Penstemon seed
eaten by small birds
Satureja mimuloides Hummingbirds
Wyethia helenoides GRAY MULE EARS seed good for birds and mammals
Zauschineria californica CALIFORNICA FUCHSIA Hummingbirds
Re: Books on plantings for wildlife (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Dear folks: Try your local conservation commission/department of natural
resources/horticulture departments at local universities. Many states
have similar lists.
I've got the Minnesota Non-Game Wildlife Program's _Landscaping for
Wildlife_ sitting in my lap at the moment. 145 pages of great information
on both the plants and the animals, all for the piddling sum of $9.
The National Wildlife Federation also offers a "Gardening for Wildlife" kit
that I haven't seen. Has booklets, landscape plans, bird feeder designs,
seeds for butterfly and hummingbird attractant plants, and some other
goodies. (1412 16th St NW, Washington DC 20036).
Re: Wildlife plantings (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: Guide to Wildlife Food Habits
If you're looking for a cheap sourcebook on who eats what, I recommend
"American Wildlife & Plants: A Guide to Wildlife Food Habits" by
Alexander C. Martin, Herbert S. Zim and Arnold L. Nelson. Originally
published by McGraw-Hill in 1951, my copy is the 1961 Dover republication.
Although the focus is on game animals and cute&fuzzies, there is a small
section on fish, reptiles and amphibians.
The major portion of the book is organized by group of animals (for instance,
in the "Songbird section", under Cedar Waxwing, there is a rough US
distribution map, a short discussion of the biology of the species, and a
list of the "best" food plants in four regions of the country (in the
NE, the winners are redcedar, wild cherry, and flowering dogwood, followed by
blackberry, hackberry, chokecherry, mulberry, serviceberry, blackhaw,
pokeweed, grape, and some minor species.
Another section of the book is arranged by species of plants, or groups of
similar species. For instance, witch hazel seeds are listed as being heavily
used by ruffed grouse, and less heavily by wild turkey...
Subject: More "Landscaping for Wildlife"
Date: 6 May 92 02:41:53 GMT
More information shamelessly stolen from the excellent book, "Landscaping for
Wildlife", from the Minnesota Dept of Natural Resources' Nongame Wildlife
Program. $8.95 from DNR Giftshop, 500 Lafayette Rd, St Paul, MN 55101
Trees, shrubs and vines rated "Excellent" for butterflies, moths and bees:
Acer negundo box elder
Aristolochia durior dutchman's pipe
Betula spp. birches
Ceanothus americanus NJ tea
Cephalanthus occidentalis buttonball bush
Cercis canadensis redbud
Clethra alnifolia sweet pepperbush
Eleagnus commutata silverberry
Ledum groenlandicum labrador tea
Lindera benzoin spicebush
Philadephicus coronarius sweet mockorange
Populus spp. aspens
Prunus spp. cherries and plums
Quercus spp. oaks
Rubus spp. blackberries & raspberries
Salix discolor pussywillow
Salix humilis prairie willow
Salix nigra black willow
Salix pentandra laurel willow
Spiraea alba narrowleaf meadowsweet
Spiraea latifolia broadleaf meadowsweet
Spirea tomentosa hard hack
Symphoricarpos occidentalis wolfberry, coralberry
Viburnum lantana wayfaring bush
Wiegelia florida wiegelia
Annuals
-------
dill
heath aster
borage
calendula
canterbury bells
cleome
Dianthus barbatus (sweet william)
heliotrope
jewelweed
touch-me-not
sweet pea
four o'clock
sweet marjoram
flowering tobacco
petunia
parsley
anise
blackeyed susan, gloriosa daisy
scarlet sage
winter savory
marigold
tithonia
nasturtium
garden verbena
zinnia
Subject: "Landscaping for Wildlife"
Date: 6 May 92 02:27:53 GMT
Some information shamelessly stolen from the excellent book, "Landscaping for
Wildlife", from the Minnesota Dept of Natural Resources' Nongame Wildlife
Program. $8.95 from DNR Giftshop, 500 Lafayette Rd, St Paul, MN 55101
(no, no connection except one of my students will begin working with another
division of the DNR next week...)
Plants rated "Excellent" for landscaping for wildlife:
(*=native to MN)
Conifers
--------
*Abies balsamea
Abies concolor
Chamaecyparis thyoides
Juniperus chinensis
Juniperus communis
*Juniperus virginiana
Larix decidua
*Larix laricina
Picea abies
*Picea glauca
Picea glauca densata
*Picea mariana
Picea rubens
*Pinus banksiana
Pinus ponderosa var scopulorum
*Pinus resinosa
*Pinus strobus
Pinus nigra
Pseudotsuga menziesii
*Tsuga canadensis
Grasses
-------
*Andropogon gerardii
*Andropogon scoparius
*Bouteloua curtipendula
*Panicum virgatum
*Sorghastrum nutans
Legumes
-------
*Amorpha canescens
*Amorpha nana
*Astragalus adsurgens
*Astragalus agrestis
*Astragalus canadensis
*Astragalus crassicarpus
*Lotus purshianus
*Oxytropis lambertii
*Petalostemon candidum (=Dalea candida)
*Petalostemon purpureum (=Dalea purpurea)
*Psoralea argophylla
*Psoralea esculenta
*Vicia americana
(red clover, white clover, alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil rate only "fair")
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Question on deer proof plants
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 06:45:30 GMT
Here's a list of plants that deer don't like that I posted a while
back:
Acanthus Kniphofia
Aconitum Leucojum
Agave Lirioe
Allium Lychnis coronaria
Amaryllis Melianthus
Artemisia Melissa
Arum Melittis
Arundo Mentha
Astilbe Mirabilis
Campanula Myosotis
Carex Nepeta
Centaurea Origanum
Ceratostigma Paeonia
Chrysanthemum maximum Papaver
Cortaderia Phormium
Crinum Polygonatum
Crocosmia Potentilla
Dicentra Pulmonaria
Digitalis Romneya
Epimedium Rudbeckia
Euphorbia Saliva
Ferns Satureja
Festuca glauca Scabiosa
Filipendula Sisyrinchium
Gaillardia Tellima
Geranium Thalictrum
Gerbera Tiarella
Gunnera Trillium
Helianthus Veratrum
Helichrysum Vinca
Hosta Iris
Hope it helps!
Chris
Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois
From leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.eduWed Jan 11 11:58:43 1995
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 1995 09:16:32 -0600
From: leppik peter
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: The Plants By Mail FAQ
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Plants By Mail FAQ
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Reply-To: p-leppi@uiuc.edu
Summary: This FAQ contains information about buying plants and garden
supplies through the mail. It includes suggestions, information
about what to expect, and a lengthy list of mail-order companies.
Opionions about some companies (derived from experiences with those
companies) are included.
Message-ID:
From: p-leppi@uiuc.edu (Peter Leppik)
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Archive-name: plants-by-mail
Posting-Frequency: bimonthly (sporadic)
Plants By Mail FAQ
by Peter Leppik
p-leppi@uiuc.edu
This document is intended to introduce readers to the world of buying
plants by mail order; and also to serve as a central clearinghouse for
information about contacting various mail order plant houses. I make
no claims about being more informed on this topic than your average
Joe, but I saw the need, and I'm willing to put forth the effort to
compile and maintain this.
History:
Updated: 7/12/94
General updates.
Updated: 4/30/94
Originally Created: 3/17/94 (late at night)
Contents:
I. Introduction
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
V. Which Catalog To Order From
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
VII. But Before We Go....
I. Introduction
It seems that one of the most common article titles in rec.gardens is,
"How can I reach XYZZY?" or, "The Plugh company sent me a catalog. Are
they any good?" I hope to be able to answer some of these questions in
a reasonably definitive manner (the first is easy, the second harder),
and provide the neophyte with some introduction to buying plants by mail.
My experience in this area has been short, but intense. After finally
moving from a small condo into a real house (with a YARD and a GARDEN
even!), one of my first projects was to begin widespread replanting of
the yard (which is mostly boring grass, or very ugly hybrid poplars).
To do that, last Fall, I began ordering large numbers of bulbs and plants
from a number of mail-order houses. Some were good, some were bad, and I
learned a lot about what to look for and what to avoid.
I welcome any and all comments. Send them to my E-mail address above.
If there is some catalog not covered here which you think should be, by
all means let me know. If you do send me comments, PLEASE please respect
my poor, overworked mailer. I've had people resend me the entire FAQ just
for a few lines of comments, and I even had one person send me a bunch of
UUencoded binary pictures! Needless to say, this doesn't help me much, and
it wastes my disk space. That said....do send comments, because they do help!
At the end of this document, there is a URL address where you can find an
HTTP version of this FAQ. If you don't know what HTTP is, don't sweat it.
If you do, then you can get this FAQ there. There is also a nifty "point and
shoot" form set up there, so you can mail me comments without having to know
my E-mail address or anything.
I assume that, if you send me comments, you don't mind if they find their way
into a future edition. I'll try to verify this, but sometimes I forget. Thus,
if you DON'T want you name in a future edition of the FAQ, be sure to say so.
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
All opinions in this document are the opinions of the author, unless
otherwise noted. The author is well-known for his arbitrary and
capricious judgments, and cannot be held liable for anything he says
herein. Besides, the author is a poor grad student, and suing him is
like trying to squeeze blood from a rock.
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
If you are like me, you probably have a dozen or two catalogs from various
places, some fancy, others plain, and you're wondering who to order from
and how to tell the difference between a place that really cares, and a place
that is just trying to unload some poor, pathetic bits of green stuff on
The Gullible Majority. In this section, I will outline what I think a
reputable mail order company should do, and what you should consider before
buying a plant sight-unseen.
What a Reputable Mail-Order Company Will Do
1) Every perennial in the catalog should have a clearly indicated hardiness
range. That is, for every perennial (anything you expect to last more than
one year) should have indicated which USDA hardiness zones it will survive in.
Simple adjectives like "hardy," or "tender," are NOT sufficient. Perhaps I am
biased, being a Minnesota native currently living in Illinois, but I have seen
too many catalogs which do not include this crucial information. Without
knowing this, it is too easy to buy plants that won't survive in your climate.
This also includes those of you who live in places like Southern California,
where it never gets cold, since some plants require a period of cold
temperatures every year in order to survive/bloom/etc.
2) Every plant should have its botanical (scientific) name listed. Of course,
this doesn't count for things like roses or tomatoes, which everybody knows
what that are. This may sound picky, but think about it: if you ever want
to get information on this plant from some other source, and they use their
own name, you might have a devil of a time figuring out how to get information.
A plant's botanical name is unique. I have seen places that will take a
standard variety of some plant, come up with a flashy (trademarked) name,
and sell it as something special. Needless to say, this is dishonest.
3) Information on the habitat requirements should be easy to find. By this,
I mean answers to questions like, how much sun does it need, how much water,
and so forth. Nearly every catalog has this, but if you see one that
doesn't, stay away.
4) A good company will have a horticulturist on staff you can call, and
provide the phone number in a prominent place in their catalog. This can
be priceless if you need to know a specific answer about some plant or
another. Some catalogs have a horticulturist, but only one phone number
(i.e. they don't have a separate order line), so don't take the lack of a
"Horticultural Information" phone number to mean a lack of horticultural
information.
Finally, something that you should probably ignore:
5) Every mail order catalog that I've seen offers some sort of guarantee.
This should NOT be a factor in deciding where to buy from. After all, what
good does it do if they replace a plant that died because you can't grow
oranges in Alaska? The replacement will just die, too, and you'll spend
twice as much time on a plant that was Never Meant To Be. Besides, these
places know that 95% of all gardeners will never take advantage of their
guarantee even if the plants do die. Some people have even noted an inverse
relation between the quality of the guarantee and the quality of the plants:
the louder the company proclaims its "FOOLPROOF 100% MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE,"
the worse the plants are when they arrive.
What To Consider Before Taking the Plunge
Okay, so you've got your heart set on the beautiful Creeping Green Stuff.
Before plunking your money and time on it (usually more time than money),
you should stop and ask yourself a few questions:
1) Will it grow in my area? If they don't make it CLEAR (i.e. by telling
you the hardiness zone), then avoid that plant, or buy it from somebody who
will tell you.
2) Do I have a place to put it? It is very easy to get spring fever when
all the catalogs start arriving midwinter, and wind up buying enough
plants to cover every square inch of your yard two or three times over.
Make sure you have a specific place for each and every plant you order, and
make sure you will have the time to plant it when it arrives. Keep in
mind that you will probably have to plant them soon after they arrive,
and you might not be able to control the exact day they arrive. Thus,
ordering 150 bushes for a new hedge from one place, all of which will
arrive via UPS on the same day and need to be planted immediately, is
probably not a good idea. Believe me.
3) Will it really look the way I want it to? Keep in mind that the
pictures in the catalogs are designed to sell plants, and the plants in
your garden will generally not look quite as nice. I have seen a lot of
comments from people in rec.gardens about the rose Blue Girl as a particular
offender in this respect. Also keep in mind that illustrations (as opposed
to photographs) can be very deceptive, too.
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
The most important thing to do when your order arrives is DON'T PANIC!
Good. Take a few deep breaths.
The reason your roses/trees/whatever arrived without any dirt is not because
the company sent you dead plants. Shipping woody plants without dirt
("bare-root") is standard. First, it does not harm the plants
much, as long as the company has taken steps to ensure that the roots don't
dry out. Usually, this involves dipping the roots in some sort of stuff
that helps retain moisture. Second, shipping plants bare-root helps keep
shipping costs down. Shipping with dirt could easily double or triple the
weight of the plant when shipped, and make it that much more expensive to
buy. Finally, shipping plants bare-root helps prevent the spread of pests
that live in the soil (like the Japanese beetle). Needless to say,
unless you're buying small seedlings, it would be expensive for a company to
grow all their stock in greenhouses.
There are a few places which ship plants in pots. Shipping a plant with the
dirt will be less traumatic to the plants, and, as a rule, you can expect these
plants to be healthier, but, because of shipping expenses, they will often also
be much smaller than bare-root plants. Given the option, I will usually buy
the plant shipped in a pot, eve though it will usually be more expensive. In
addition, there are some plants which have to be shipped in pots, simply
because they're too fragile otherwise.
Generally, you will get a little booklet with your order explaining how
to plant your new plants. Usually, the first thing to do (with bare root
plants) is to stick them in a bucket of water for some time. You should do
this as soon as they arrive. Then, dig a hole according to the booklet
instructions, and plant those buggers.
It may take some time for your new plants to leaf out, especially if they're
dormant when shipped. Again, don't panic. If you planted in the spring,
don't call the company to complain that the plants are dead until midsummer.
They'll just tell you to wait, because sometimes the plants take a while to
adjust to their new surroundings.
V. Which Catalog To Order From
If you are buying roses, you should certainly order from a catalog which
specializes in roses. There are quite a few of these catalogs, and you will
generally get better selection, quality, and price than you would from buying
from a catalog which doesn't specialize in roses.
For some reason, this rule of thumb seems to be the other way around when
buying bulbs. I have had the best experiences buying bulbs from White Flower
Farms, which is generally an outstanding catalog, but they aren't even
remotely limited to bulbs. My worst experiences, on the other hand, were
with places that sell only, or mainly bulbs. Go figure.
Not everybody will agree with my judgments. After much consideration (and
several long discussions on the order of "Company X isn't really THAT bad!"),
I've decided that the main consideration has to be consistency. That means
that I can count on large plants, of a uniformly high quality, every time I
order. Note, too, that I haven't yet had anyone take issue with my list of
"Good" companies, just the "Bad" ones. Having said that, here is my list of
best and worst companies, based solely on my personal experiences:
Really Good Companies:
White Flower Farms
Nor'East Miniature Roses
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Gardener's Supply Company
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
Companies To Avoid:
Spring Hill
Michigan Bulb Co.
Breck's Bulbs
Gurney's
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
This section is really the meat of this FAQ. Here, I will list as many mail
order houses as I can get catalogs for, how to contact them, and my
impressions of them. If you're interested in a place that isn't listed
here, by all means, ask them to put me on their list, and I'll include them
in a future edition.
For each company, I will list their name, mailing address, phone number,
a general description of what they sell, and my opinions. Opinions are strictly mine, unless otherwise noted. I will not indicate an opinion unless I have
actually ordered something from a company, unless the opinion is someone
else's.
------
Aitken's Salmon Creek Garden
608 NW 119 St.
Vancouver, WA 98685
(206) 573-4472
A wide variety of irises, and some orchids.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5
Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
Old garden roses.
------
The Aril Patch catalog $.75
3843 Concord Blvd. (We have less experience
Concord, CA 94519 with these since we grow
Aril Irises. Catalog $.75
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Banana Tree, Inc.
715 Northampton St.
Easton , PA 18042
Phone: (215) 253 9589
Fax: (215) 253 4864
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $3.00, and lists rare seeds, mostly tropicals, gingers,
bananas.
36 pages of Interesting Reading!
------
Breck's Bulbs
U.S. Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
Peoria, IL 61632
Orders: (309) 689-3870
Breck's sells bulbs imported from Holland: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, etc.
OPINION: Overall, I am not terribly impressed with Breck's. Their merchandise
(contrary to the catalog hype) is not particularly premium, but their prices
are higher than most places, even some places which have superior stock.
They do not list hardiness for anything, though most of what they sell should
do fine most places in the U.S. (they don't sell any of the really tender
bulbs, like glads). You can do better elsewhere.
Note that Breck's Bulbs appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Spring Hill, another company on my "Avoid" list.
------
Bridges Roses
2734 Toney Rd.
Lawndale, NC 28090
Phone: (704) 538-9412
Fax: (704) 538-1521
Mostly miniature roses, and a few hybrid teas.
------
George C. Bush
Clean Shaven Iris
1739 Memory Lane Extended
York, PA 17402
Phone: (717) 755-0557
Siberian Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
C.W.S. Roses
2232 Gale Ave.
Coquitlam, BC V3K 2Y8
CANADA
Miniature Roses.
------
Caprice Farm Nursery
15425 SW Pleasant Hill Rd.
Sherwood, OR 97140
Phone: (503)625-7241
They specialize in peonies, daylillies, and irises.
Thanks to lindap@scic.intel.com (Linda Peake) for this listing.
------
Carlton Rose Nurseries
P.O. Box 366
Carlton, OR 97111
Phone: (503) 852-7135
Roses.
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Chamblee's Rose Nursery
10926 US Hwy. 69 N
Tyler, TX 75706-8742
Phone: 1-800-256-7673
Fax: (903) 882-3597
Miniature roses, and old garden roses.
------
Cooley's
11553 Silverton Rd. NE
Silverton, Oregon 97381
Tall Bearded Irises. Color catalog $3 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Draycott Gardens
Carol Warner
16815 Falls Road
Upperco, MD 21155
Phone: (410) 374-4788
Siberian Irises. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
-----
Dutch Gardens, Inc.
P.O. Box 200
Adelphia, NJ 07710
Phone: (908) 780-2713
Fax: 908 708-7720
Thanks to kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster) for this address.
nguyenpd@ntmtv.com reports:
*** Good selection of basic Holland bulbs; good prices, esp. in
quantity (group order program esp.). Excellent color
catalog with pictures of all cultivars.
*** Highly recommend
------
Ensata Gardens
9823 E. Michigan Ave.
Galesburg, Michigan 49053
(616) 665-7500
Japanese Irises. Catalog $2
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Flowery Branch
P.O. Box 1330
Flowery Branch, GA 30542
Phone: (404) 536-8380 Mon.-Fri. 10 AM-4 PM
Fax: (404) 532-7825
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $2.00, the 1994 edition 'A Garden of Delights' is 100
pages, and lists a LOT of seeds as well (between 1000 and 2000 different
kinds) (ornamentals, herbs, everlastings).
------
Flowers Tn Friends Miniature Roses
9590 100th St SE
Alto, MI 49302
Phone: (616) 891-1226
Miniature roses.
------
Four Seasons Nursery
Dept. 9
1706 Morrissey Dr.
Bloomington, IL 61704
Orders: (309) 663-9551
Four Seasons sells a wide variety of nursery stock, like bushes, trees, and
bulbs. They also have a limited selection of garden supplies.
------
Fungi Perfecti
PO Box 7634
Olympia, WA 98507
Phone: (206) 426-9292
Fax: (206) 426-9377
Fungi Perfecti sells fungus. Thanks to Kris Carroll (kcarrol@u.washington.edu)
for bringing this to my attention.
------
Gardener's Eden
P.O. Box 7307
San Francisco, CA 94120-7307
Orders: 1-800-822-9600
Customer Service: 1-800-822-1214
Fax: (415) 421-5153
Mostly upscale garden-stuff, like furniture, birdhouses, and so forth. No
plants to speak of.
------
Gardener's Supply Co.
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington, VT 05401
Orders/Customer Service: (802) 863-1700
TDD: (802) 660-3530
Fax: (802) 660-4600
All kinds of gardening supplies, and a few plants.
OPINION: I have had good experiences with this company. Their products
appear to be of a uniformly high quality, and a lot of people in rec.gardens
swear by them. At least one of their employees reads this newsgroup, so
you may be able to get answers "from the horse's mouth," if you know who
to ask. If anybody can supply me with his E-mail address, I would appreciate
it (for future editions).
------
Gardens Alive
5100 Schenley Place
Lawrenceburg, IN 47025
Orders: (812) 537-8650
Fax: (812) 537-5108
Organic gardening supplies.
------
Giles Ramblin' Roses
2968 SR 710
Okeechobee, FL 34974
Phone: (813) 763-6611
Roses.
------
Gurney's
110 Capital St.
Yankton, SD 57079
Orders: (605) 665-1930
Customer Assistance: (605) 665-1671
Gurney's sells nearly everything under the sun: seeds, shrubs, trees, bulbs,
garden supplies, you name it, and they probably sell it.
OPINION: I ordered seeds, bushes, and trees from Gurney's this year. The
quality was generally proportional to the price paid: some things are really
good, but the el-cheapo specials sometimes left something to be desired.
Their horticultural staff appears knowledgeable, and certainly friendly.
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports that she had some bad
experiences with Gurney's a number of years ago, relating to shipping and
billing screw-ups. She hasn't ordered from them since, so I don't know if
this is an isolated incident, or the result of generally bad management.
Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
------
Hardy Roses for the North
Box 2048
Grand Forks, BC V0H 1H0
CANADA
Box 273
Danville, WA 99121-0273
Fax: (604) 442-2766
Own-Root (not grafted) roses.
------
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 NE Riverside Dr.
St. Paul, OR 91737
Orders: (503) 538-1576
This is a catalog of "old" roses: not a hybrid tea to be found. If you're
looking for english or unusual roses, this is the place to go.
OPINION: If you are a rose grower, and you are still growing hybrid teas,
this catalog will convert you. Many of the old roses offered here are just
as good, if not better than, the more common modern roses. The catalog offers
a lot of information about a zillion different roses, including hardiness,
and (my favorite) lists of roses well-suited for particular uses (i.e.
roses for growing over trellises, roses for scent, etc.). Their stock is
first-rate, and all grown on its own roots, so there are no bud unions to
worry about. There is no separate phone number for questions, but I found
the people answering the phone to be knowledgeable and helpful. Two thumbs
up. Note that they charge $5 for the catalog, but once you're on their
mailing list (i.e. after you buy something), they'll send it free.
------
Henry Field's
415 North Burnett
Shenandoah, IA 51602
Orders: (605) 665-9391
Fax: (605) 665-2601
Customer Service: (605) 665-4491
A general seeds-and-stuff catalog. They sell seeds, plants, and bulbs.
------
Hidden Garden Nursery
13515 SE Briggs
Milwaukie, OR 97222-6117
Miniature roses.
------
Holland Bulb Farms
423 Borad St.
P.O. Box 220
Tatamy PA 18085-0220
Orders: 1-800-283-5082
Another bulb catalog.
------
Hortico
723 Robson Rd.
Waterton, Ontario L0R 2H1
CANADA
Phone: (905) 689-6984 or (905) 689-3002
Fax: (905) 689-6566
Roses. Catalog costs $3.
------
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman
P.O. Box 1058
Redwood City, California, 94064
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $1.00, and is worth every cent. The 1994 edition of
the Ethnobotanical Catalog of Seeds is 95 pages and lists a LOT of seeds
(herbs, trees, vegetables, some ornamentals), as well as some
books and other literature.
More info is printed on every seed package, and there are plenty of
seeds per package. (The motto is: 'If seed production was bountiful
you'll get more seeds).
------
Jackson & Perkins
P.O. Box 1028
Medford, OR 97501
Orders: 1-800-292-4769
J&P actually publishes more different catalogs than you can shake a stick at.
They are highly respected, though I've never ordered anything from them.
------
J. W. Jung Seed & Nursery
335 S. High St.
Randolph, WI 53957-0001
Orders: 1-800-247-JUNG
Customer Service: 1-800-297-3123
Jung's sells seeds, nursery stock, a few bulbs, and supplies
------
Justice Miniature Roses
5947 SW Kahle Rd.
Wilsonville, OR 97070
Phone: (503) 682-2370
Miniature Roses.
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Lee Valley Tools Ltd.
P.O. Box 6295, Stn. J
Ottawa, Ontario K2A 1T4
Canada
Phone Order: 1-800-267-8767
FAX: 1-800-668-1807
Customer Service: 1-800-267-8761
They carry mostly really neat woodworking tools but have a garden supply
section that has some interesting things. Hope this helps.
Thanks to Janet Lupson (jlupson@uoguelph.ca) for this entry.
------
Lenington Gardens
7007 Manchester Ave.
Kansas City, MO 64133
Tim Fehr (FEHRTJ@CNSVAX.UWEC.EDU) Provided this address and reports:
We just returned from Kansas City and had the pleasure of visiting
Lenington gardens - over 1,000 varieties of daylillies. Robert
Lenington and his wife opened the garden 2 hours early to accommodate
our travel schedule. We were treated to tour of the gardens and it
was really impressive. They introduced many of the Marsh cultivars
including the Prairie and Chicago series. Seeing 30 feet of Prairie
Blue Eyes or Chicago Knobby in bloom makes quite an impression. The
Leningtons host garden clubs during the summer they said and run a
mail order business.
I was especially delighted to see some of the Lenington families own
introductions. Two were really eye catching FUZZ BUNNIES is a lemon
yellow double with really consistent double form and WINE DELIGHT is
a small wine-red flower with a real red eye zone - this had up to 40
buds on many of the scapes and there were lots of scapes so it should
bloom for quite a long time. A landscaper or gardeners delight indeed!
Send for a catalog - prices were very reasonable - I would guess 90% are
under $20.00 - 50% at or under $10.00.
Donna Sullivan (sully@mathworks.com) reports:
I ordered from their catalog last fall and the daylilly varieties were
outstanding! They arrived in good shape (I'm in Massachusetts) and are
coming up strong this summer. Looking forward to the blooms. If anyone is
looking for variety in daylillies, their catalog is wonderful and
inexpensive. I ordered with a friend and if you ordered more than a certain
amount, everything was 50% off!
------
Lilypons Water Gardens
Box 10
Lilypons, MD 21717-0010
Phone: (301) 428-0686
Pond stuff. Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this
address.
------
Louisiana Nursery
Rt. 7, Box 43
Opelousas, LA 70570
Louisiana Irises. Also daylillies and some other bulbs and plants.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
McDaniel's Miniature Roses
7523 Zemco St.
Lemon Grove, CA 91945
Miniature roses.
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Michigan Bulb Co.
1950 Waldorf NW
Grad Rapids, MI 49550-0500
Michigan Bulb Company sells bulbs, perennials, and other assorted plants.
OPINION: This catalog is filled with the kind of BREATHLESS PROSE and
AMAZING BARGAINS designed to stampede the gardener into making impulse
purchases. Their prices are cheap, but selection is limited, and quality
was very mediocre. In addition, I was unable to find a phone number anywhere
in the catalog--this could be a real problem, if you have problems with your
order. To their credit, they generally include hardiness information.
On the other hand, they also sell the "Blue Girl" rose, which is an automatic
two demerits in my book. Go elsewhere.
jsr@geneab.b23a.ingr.com (Jeff Reifsteck) reports:
I've had nothing but bad news from Michigan Bulb. The plants were poor and
didn't survive. They did replace them without question but my 40 creeping
myrtle (6" evergreen ground cover) became 40 crape myrtle (a big bush and
a lot more expensive). I needed ground cover not bushes. Except for the
replacement of a "Blue Girl" rose all the other replacements were not plantable.
apilote@wtcd.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Angela Pilote) reports:
Last year I ordered some things from them -- NEVER AGAIN!
I even told my husband to remind me of the poor quality
of there plants and bulbs if he even SEES me *looking* at one
of their catalogs.
None of the plants survived and only about half (maybe less)
of the bulbs came up. The bulbs also seemed very small
and I think I read somewhere that this is a sign that the
bulbs have not matured enough to bloom.
The prices seem to be good, but if you factor in the survival
rate and time invested -- it's not a deal. I'm better off paying
premium prices at my nursery for good quality plants and bulbs.
[Whew! I guess the verdict is in on this one!]
------
Michigan Miniature Roses
45951 Hull Rd.
Belleville, MI 48111
Phone: (313) 699-6698
Miniature Roses.
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Miller's Manor Gardens
3167 E. US 224
Ossian, IN 46777
A wide variety of irises, daylilies, and hosta.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
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Mini Rose Garden
1043 Mini-Rose Bldg.
Cross Hill, SC 29332
Miniature Roses.
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National Arbor Day Foundation
100 Arbor Ave.
Nebraska City, NE 68410
All kinds of trees
OPINION: The National Arbor Day Foundation is a nonprofit organization
which promotes the planting of trees. They run frequent membership blitzes
where they offer to send you 10 free trees for joining. I did. You do get
10 free trees. They're all seedlings (no real surprise), but it can be
hard to tell them apart, since they are labeled with a spot of colored
paint which is hard to see. Their main method of raising funds appears to
be selling trees, of which they have a good selection and reasonable prices.
Might be worth joining if you plan to plant a lot of trees, or believe in
their cause.
------
Netherland Bulb Co.
13 McFadden Rd.
Easton, PA 18042-9078
Orders: 1-800-788-8547
Customer Assistance: (610) 253-8879
Netherland Bulb Co. sells bulbs and other plants grown from their roots.
OPINION: Mostly big pictures and not much else, this catalog will entice
the winter-weary gardener into buying lots and lots of colorful plants.
Their prices are cheap, but their stock is mediocre, and selection is very
limited. Hardiness information is nonexistent, though most of what they
sell should do OK most places in the U.S. Unless you're really pressed
for money, you can do better elsewhere--just keep in mind that you get
what you pay for.
Cate Williams (williams@ssnet.com) reports: I'd like to really say that
Netherlands Bulbs is HORRIBLE! I got suckered by the prices, and ended
up with a bunch of seriously diseased tulips -- so sick, that I can't
plant any more in that bed for two years. N.B. is simply dangerous.
My .02$.
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New Holland Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 335
Rockport, IL 62370-0335
Bulbs, and assorted perennials. Note the lack of a phone number, which
could cause problems if you have difficulty with an order.
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Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 307
Rowley, MA 01969
Phone: (508) 948-7964
Orders: 1-800-426-6485
On the West Coast:
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 473
Ontario, CA 91762
Phone: (909) 984-2223
Orders: 1-800-662-9669
A large selection of miniature roses, and some supplies for those who like
to grow them (like miniature vases)
OPINION: This company is also on my "Good-Guys" list. Their prices are
quite reasonable, and their stock is high quality. Their catalog has a photo
of many of the offerings. If you are into miniature roses (or would like to
be), this is the catalog to get.
------
Ohio Gardens
102 Laramie Road
Marietta, OH 45750
Miniature Tall Bearded Iris. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Oregon Miniature Roses
8285 SW 185th Ave.
Beaverton, OR 97007
Miniature roses.
------
Paradise Water Gardens
62 May Street
Whitman, MA 02382
Water garden supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Park Seed Co.
Cokesbury Rd.
Greenwood, SC 29647-0001
Orders: (803) 223-7333
Customer Service: (803) 941-4480
Park Seed sells seeds, a few smaller plants, some bulbs, and garden supplies
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports:
The Washington State Attorney General's office considers them to be one
of the top ten mail order companies in the country. They will refund
money for just about any reason, they have always been unfailingly
courteous when I have called, they are knowledgeable, and will get more
information for you if they do not have it on hand. The one person I
know that had a customer dispute with them, was very satisfied with how
they handled it, it turned out to be a quarantined plans she had
ordered. They found her a local nursery that carried the plant, and had
them reserve one for her, refunded her money, and apologized
for the inexperienced phone trainee that had taken her order. They are
always very friendly, and making comments like, oh that's a nice
variety. I have never heard them say anything bad about any other
company, and they are a marvel of customer appreciation. When my
stepfather retired as head of the State Capitol grounds after twenty
years, the company sent him a letter of appreciation for his support
over the years. And he of course, had nothing but great things to say of
them, based on over thirty five years of professional contact.
------
Quality Dutch Bulbs
P.O. Box 225
50 Lake Dr.
Hillsdale, NJ 07642-0225
Phone: (215) 253-9570
Orders: 1-800-755-2852
Bulbs (need I say more?).
------
Raintree Nursery
391 Butts Road
Morton, WA 98356
(206) 496-6400
Fruit Trees
Thanks to Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) for this entry.
------
Rialto Gardens
1146 W. Rialto
Fresno, CA 93705
Reblooming Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Roses Unlimited
Rt. 1 Box 587
Laurens, SC 29360
Phone: (803) 682-9112
Roses.
------
Santa Barbara Water Gardens
Box 4353
Santa Barbara, CA 93140
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Schreiner's
3629 Quinaby Road
Salem, Oregon 97303
1-800-525-2367 for orders
1-503-393-3232 for questions
Tall Bearded Irises, color catalog $4 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Seed Savers Exchange
Kent Whealy-Director
Rural Route 3, Box 239
Decorah, Iowa 52101
jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu provided this entry, and says:
These are great folks and it's a very worthwhile program.
------
Seeds of Change
P.O. Box 15700
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87506-5700
julianet@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Juliane Thomas) provided this address and reports:
My husband found this address because he wants to do some organic
gardening, and these are supposed to be seeds which come from plants
uncontaminated by pesticides or chemical fertilizers. He hasn't
ordered any yet, but he probably will very soon.
------
Sequoia Nursery/Moore Miniature Roses
2519 E. Noble
Visalia, CA 93292
Phone: (209) 732-0190
Miniature Roses.
------
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
Orders: East (203) 482-3638
West (408) 335-6910
Customer Service: (203) 482-3638
Horticultural Help: (408) 335-6910
Shepherd's sells mostly seeds, but also a few plants, and some kitchen and
garden supplies.
OPINION: The stylish illustrations in this catalog give it a distinctly
yuppie feel, but this is a good catalog nevertheless. They have a number
of varieties that are hard to find elsewhere (a whole PAGE of ornamental
sunflowers!), and a wealth of useful horticultural information. My order
arrived promptly, in good order, and appears to be high quality (it is still
a little soon for things to be sprouting around here, though). Prices are
a little above average, but seeds are cheap no matter how you slice it.
------
Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery,
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR 97501-1538
Phone: (503) 772-6846
Catalog $2
Thanks to Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) for this entry.
------
Slocum Water Gardens
1101 Cypress Gardens Boulevard
Winter Haven, FL 33880-6099
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Smith & Hawken
Two Arbor Lane
P.O. Box 6900
Florence, KY 41022-6900
Smith & Hawken sells mostly supplies and yard stuff, but also some seeds
and live plants.
------
Spring Hill
Mail Order Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
P.O. Box 1758
Peoria, IL 61656-1758
Orders: (309) 689-3800
Customer Service: (309) 689-3849
Spring Hill sells just about any kind of plant that catches their fancy.
OPINION: Spring Hill is one of these places that is in the business of
dumping cheap, inappropriate merchandise on unsuspecting customers. The
quality of their merchandise is mediocre, even though the prices are about
average. The provide little or no hardiness information, which is especially
troublesome considering that they sell some plants (like carnations) for
outdoor planting, even though they will not survive the winter in large
portions of the U.S. Furthermore, if you ever buy anything from Spring Hill,
you will be on their mailing list but good. I have received no less than
four different catalogs from them in the last two months (not even counting
the large number of "special offers" which seem to arrive about once a week,
and at least one telemarketing call). Avoid this company like the plague.
Note that Spring Hill appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Breck's Bulbs, another company on my "Avoid" list.
Al Harrington [alh@hprnd.rose.hp.com] says:
I think you are being way to hard on Spring Hill. I realize that
they do not supply hardiness information, and that some of their
plants are not in the best shape - their customer service is very
good. I purchased the carnation collection (15 plants) and 2 of
them died. I got credited for all 15 as it was a collection.
I ordered a lot of stuff from them (over 100 plants) and just about
all are doing just fine - what isn't I get credit for.
If nothing else seeing color pictures of *everything* they sell is
nice. :-)
------
Stark Brothers
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MO 63353-0010
Orders: 1-800-325-4180
Customer Service: 1-800-478-2759
Stark Brothers sells almost exclusively fruit trees, and a few ornamentals.
Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) reports: Stark Brothers have been around
for a long time. Many of their fruit trees are their own hybrids. I have
order from them twice, both times the orders were very well packed and the
trees were healthy and in general good shape. I planted a local nursery apple
tree and a Stark tree the same weekend. The Stark tree has done much better.
It has grown faster and produce fruit earlier than the local nursery tree.
The catalog is well written and gives a lot of information on each tree.
------
Taylor's Roses
P.O. Box 11272
Chicksaw, AL 36671-0272
Phone: (205) 456-7753
Miniature roses.
------
Tetra Pond
Box 4858
Toms River, NJ 08754-9946
Water garden and pond supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Texas Mini Roses
P.O. Box 267
Denton, TX 76202
Phone: (817) 566-3034
Miniature roses.
------
Tiny Petals Miniature Rose Nursery
483 Minot Ave.
Chula Vista CA 91910
Phone: (619) 422-0385
Miniature roses.
------
Trophy Roses, LTD
1308 N. Kennicott Ave.
Arlington Heights, IL 60004
Orders/Catalogs: (708) 253-0998
Fax: (708) 253-0738
Roses.
------
Van Dyek's Flower Farm
PO Box 430
Brightwaters, NY 11718-0430
Bulbs.
Thanks to Howard Fujimoto (hmf00@eng.amdahl.com) for this listing.
------
Van Ness Water Gardens
2460 North Euclid
Upland, CA 91786-1199
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Waterford Gardens
74 East Allendale Road
Saddle River, NJ 07458
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Wayside Gardens
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
Phone: 1-800-845-1124
Thanks to jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu for this listing.
------
White Flower Farm
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
Orders: (203) 496-9600
White Flower Farm sells just about every kind of ornamental plant that one
might reasonably want to grow in North America.
OPINION: I will state my bias right up front: White Flower Farm is far and
away my favorite catalog. They have a reputation for being "upscale,"
but their prices are only slightly above average. Their catalog offers
a wealth of useful horticultural information, along with interesting
commentary about each and every plant. All the information you need to know
(hardiness, planting requirements, light requirements, etc.) is compiled
in a single useful index, as well as being stated with the description of
each plant. The catalog is organized alphabetically by genus name, so
in addition to being fun to read (and look at the pictures), it makes a
very useful reference. Of course, the catalog is only secondary to the
merchandise. Fortunately, their produce more than lives up to the high
standards set by the catalog: it is absolutely first rate. When I was buying
daylillies, crocuses, and daffodils from White Flower Farm and other
catalogs, the bulbs or roots from White Flower were often more than twice
the size of the ones from other vendors, and at a comparable price.
Even if you never buy anything from White Flower Farm, you should get their
catalog as a reference, since it is almost as good as buying a book on
ornamental plants, but a whole lot cheaper.
Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) disagrees with some of my tone:
Not really a flame, but please! I have a few of White Flower Farm's
catalogues, and I do value them for their reference quality and nice
photographs. But their plants and garden information is distinctively East
Coast in character. I would very much enjoy growing a number of plants they
list, but no longer attempt such folly as they are definitely inappropriate
for my arid western climate (as would many of the plants I cherish in my
garden be inappropriate for yours).
Please, let us not forget those 'less fortunate' souls who garden elsewhere!
North America is a big place, and I do not expect my garden to look like
your any more that I expect your to look like mine.
This reminds me of the search for a "North American gardening style". I can
think of nothing more ridiculous to search for - as if it could ever be
defined for a continent like ours - or that you'd want to try! This has
always been a way to 'one up' the 'English style'. Well, England is a
relatively small place, and even then it contains diversity more than we
imagine.
[I must plead guilty here. Perhaps I should have said that they sell "just
about any ornamental plant one might reasonably want to grow East of the
Rockies...."]
------
Gilbert H Wild and Son, Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Sarcoxie, Mo. 64862-0338
Phone: (417) 548-3514
Thanks to Joanne Kube-Harderwijk (joannek@empros.com) for this address.
Harry Boswell (u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil) reports:
....an excellent mail-order nursery
specializing in daylilies and peonies (I've ordered from them
several times, with very good results)....
Great catalog, with lots of color photos, good discount section in the
back.
------
Wildseed Farms, Inc.
1101 Campo Rosa Rd, PO Box 308
Eagle Lake, TX 77434
Phone: 1-800-848-0078
Fax: (409) 234-7407
Wildflower seeds, including some hard-to-find ones.
Thanks to Chad Segura (segura@owlnet.rice.edu) for this entry.
-----
Woodlanders, Inc.
1128 Colleton Ave.
Aiken, SC 29801
Fax/Phone: (803) 648-7522
Plants, with an emphasis on native plants, and a few books.
Thanks to Anne Wolf (WOLFFMAD@ACM.ORG), who reports that this is an excellent
catalog.
-----
VII. But Before We Go....
I hope this FAQ has been useful. I also hope it has been accurate. If you
find any mistakes, or have any comments, please send me E-mail at the
address listed at the top of the file. Any suggestions for improving
future editions will be happily accepted, and possibly even acted upon.
This FAQ is also available via the World Wide Web. The URL is:
http://jean-luc.ncsa.uiuc.edu/People/PeterL/PBM-FAQ.html
I will try to get the new edition up as soon as I can. If it isn't
updated within a few days, send me mail and I'll get to it.
There is also a WWW page which allows you to send me comments without having
to know my E-Mail address or anything. You can reach this page at the same
URL as the FAQ itself.
-=*=-
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 12:15:21 -0500
From: leppik peter
Subject: This is the new FAQ
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Plants By Mail FAQ
Reply-To: p-leppi@uiuc.edu
Summary: This FAQ contains information about buying plants and garden
supplies through the mail. It includes suggestions, information
about what to expect, and a lengthy list of mail-order companies.
Opionions about some companies (derived from experiences with those
companies) are included.
Message-ID:
From: p-leppi@uiuc.edu (Peter Leppik)
Archive-name: plants-by-mail
Posting-Frequency: bimonthly (sporadic)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Plants By Mail FAQ
by Peter Leppik
p-leppi@uiuc.edu
This document is intended to introduce readers to the world of buying
plants by mail order; and also to serve as a central clearinghouse for
information about contacting various mail order plant houses. I make
no claims about being more informed on this topic than your average
Joe, but I saw the need, and I'm willing to put forth the effort to
compile and maintain this.
History:
Updated: 7/12/94
General updates.
Updated: 4/30/94
Originally Created: 3/17/94 (late at night)
Contents:
I. Introduction
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
V. Which Catalog To Order From
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
VII. But Before We Go....
I. Introduction
It seems that one of the most common article titles in rec.gardens is,
"How can I reach XYZZY?" or, "The Plugh company sent me a catalog. Are
they any good?" I hope to be able to answer some of these questions in
a reasonably definitive manner (the first is easy, the second harder),
and provide the neophyte with some introduction to buying plants by mail.
My experience in this area has been short, but intense. After finally
moving from a small condo into a real house (with a YARD and a GARDEN
even!), one of my first projects was to begin widespread replanting of
the yard (which is mostly boring grass, or very ugly hybrid poplars).
To do that, last Fall, I began ordering large numbers of bulbs and plants
from a number of mail-order houses. Some were good, some were bad, and I
learned a lot about what to look for and what to avoid.
I welcome any and all comments. Send them to my E-mail address above.
If there is some catalog not covered here which you think should be, by
all means let me know. If you do send me comments, PLEASE please respect
my poor, overworked mailer. I've had people resend me the entire FAQ just
for a few lines of comments, and I even had one person send me a bunch of
UUencoded binary pictures! Needless to say, this doesn't help me much, and
it wastes my disk space. That said....do send comments, because they do help!
At the end of this document, there is a URL address where you can find an
HTTP version of this FAQ. If you don't know what HTTP is, don't sweat it.
If you do, then you can get this FAQ there. There is also a nifty "point and
shoot" form set up there, so you can mail me comments without having to know
my E-mail address or anything.
I assume that, if you send me comments, you don't mind if they find their way
into a future edition. I'll try to verify this, but sometimes I forget. Thus,
if you DON'T want you name in a future edition of the FAQ, be sure to say so.
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
All opinions in this document are the opinions of the author, unless
otherwise noted. The author is well-known for his arbitrary and
capricious judgments, and cannot be held liable for anything he says
herein. Besides, the author is a poor grad student, and suing him is
like trying to squeeze blood from a rock.
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
If you are like me, you probably have a dozen or two catalogs from various
places, some fancy, others plain, and you're wondering who to order from
and how to tell the difference between a place that really cares, and a place
that is just trying to unload some poor, pathetic bits of green stuff on
The Gullible Majority. In this section, I will outline what I think a
reputable mail order company should do, and what you should consider before
buying a plant sight-unseen.
What a Reputable Mail-Order Company Will Do
1) Every perennial in the catalog should have a clearly indicated hardiness
range. That is, for every perennial (anything you expect to last more than
one year) should have indicated which USDA hardiness zones it will survive in.
Simple adjectives like "hardy," or "tender," are NOT sufficient. Perhaps I am
biased, being a Minnesota native currently living in Illinois, but I have seen
too many catalogs which do not include this crucial information. Without
knowing this, it is too easy to buy plants that won't survive in your climate.
This also includes those of you who live in places like Southern California,
where it never gets cold, since some plants require a period of cold
temperatures every year in order to survive/bloom/etc.
2) Every plant should have its botanical (scientific) name listed. Of course,
this doesn't count for things like roses or tomatoes, which everybody knows
what that are. This may sound picky, but think about it: if you ever want
to get information on this plant from some other source, and they use their
own name, you might have a devil of a time figuring out how to get information.
A plant's botanical name is unique. I have seen places that will take a
standard variety of some plant, come up with a flashy (trademarked) name,
and sell it as something special. Needless to say, this is dishonest.
3) Information on the habitat requirements should be easy to find. By this,
I mean answers to questions like, how much sun does it need, how much water,
and so forth. Nearly every catalog has this, but if you see one that
doesn't, stay away.
4) A good company will have a horticulturist on staff you can call, and
provide the phone number in a prominent place in their catalog. This can
be priceless if you need to know a specific answer about some plant or
another. Some catalogs have a horticulturist, but only one phone number
(i.e. they don't have a separate order line), so don't take the lack of a
"Horticultural Information" phone number to mean a lack of horticultural
information.
Finally, something that you should probably ignore:
5) Every mail order catalog that I've seen offers some sort of guarantee.
This should NOT be a factor in deciding where to buy from. After all, what
good does it do if they replace a plant that died because you can't grow
oranges in Alaska? The replacement will just die, too, and you'll spend
twice as much time on a plant that was Never Meant To Be. Besides, these
places know that 95% of all gardeners will never take advantage of their
guarantee even if the plants do die. Some people have even noted an inverse
relation between the quality of the guarantee and the quality of the plants:
the louder the company proclaims its "FOOLPROOF 100% MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE,"
the worse the plants are when they arrive.
What To Consider Before Taking the Plunge
Okay, so you've got your heart set on the beautiful Creeping Green Stuff.
Before plunking your money and time on it (usually more time than money),
you should stop and ask yourself a few questions:
1) Will it grow in my area? If they don't make it CLEAR (i.e. by telling
you the hardiness zone), then avoid that plant, or buy it from somebody who
will tell you.
2) Do I have a place to put it? It is very easy to get spring fever when
all the catalogs start arriving midwinter, and wind up buying enough
plants to cover every square inch of your yard two or three times over.
Make sure you have a specific place for each and every plant you order, and
make sure you will have the time to plant it when it arrives. Keep in
mind that you will probably have to plant them soon after they arrive,
and you might not be able to control the exact day they arrive. Thus,
ordering 150 bushes for a new hedge from one place, all of which will
arrive via UPS on the same day and need to be planted immediately, is
probably not a good idea. Believe me.
3) Will it really look the way I want it to? Keep in mind that the
pictures in the catalogs are designed to sell plants, and the plants in
your garden will generally not look quite as nice. I have seen a lot of
comments from people in rec.gardens about the rose Blue Girl as a particular
offender in this respect. Also keep in mind that illustrations (as opposed
to photographs) can be very deceptive, too.
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
The most important thing to do when your order arrives is DON'T PANIC!
Good. Take a few deep breaths.
The reason your roses/trees/whatever arrived without any dirt is not because
the company sent you dead plants. Shipping woody plants without dirt
("bare-root") is standard. First, it does not harm the plants
much, as long as the company has taken steps to ensure that the roots don't
dry out. Usually, this involves dipping the roots in some sort of stuff
that helps retain moisture. Second, shipping plants bare-root helps keep
shipping costs down. Shipping with dirt could easily double or triple the
weight of the plant when shipped, and make it that much more expensive to
buy. Finally, shipping plants bare-root helps prevent the spread of pests
that live in the soil (like the Japanese beetle). Needless to say,
unless you're buying small seedlings, it would be expensive for a company to
grow all their stock in greenhouses.
There are a few places which ship plants in pots. Shipping a plant with the
dirt will be less traumatic to the plants, and, as a rule, you can expect these
plants to be healthier, but, because of shipping expenses, they will often also
be much smaller than bare-root plants. Given the option, I will usually buy
the plant shipped in a pot, eve though it will usually be more expensive. In
addition, there are some plants which have to be shipped in pots, simply
because they're too fragile otherwise.
Generally, you will get a little booklet with your order explaining how
to plant your new plants. Usually, the first thing to do (with bare root
plants) is to stick them in a bucket of water for some time. You should do
this as soon as they arrive. Then, dig a hole according to the booklet
instructions, and plant those buggers.
It may take some time for your new plants to leaf out, especially if they're
dormant when shipped. Again, don't panic. If you planted in the spring,
don't call the company to complain that the plants are dead until midsummer.
They'll just tell you to wait, because sometimes the plants take a while to
adjust to their new surroundings.
V. Which Catalog To Order From
If you are buying roses, you should certainly order from a catalog which
specializes in roses. There are quite a few of these catalogs, and you will
generally get better selection, quality, and price than you would from buying
from a catalog which doesn't specialize in roses.
For some reason, this rule of thumb seems to be the other way around when
buying bulbs. I have had the best experiences buying bulbs from White Flower
Farms, which is generally an outstanding catalog, but they aren't even
remotely limited to bulbs. My worst experiences, on the other hand, were
with places that sell only, or mainly bulbs. Go figure.
Not everybody will agree with my judgments. After much consideration (and
several long discussions on the order of "Company X isn't really THAT bad!"),
I've decided that the main consideration has to be consistency. That means
that I can count on large plants, of a uniformly high quality, every time I
order. Note, too, that I haven't yet had anyone take issue with my list of
"Good" companies, just the "Bad" ones. Having said that, here is my list of
best and worst companies, based solely on my personal experiences:
Really Good Companies:
White Flower Farms
Nor'East Miniature Roses
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Gardener's Supply Company
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
Companies To Avoid:
Spring Hill
Michigan Bulb Co.
Breck's Bulbs
Gurney's
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
This section is really the meat of this FAQ. Here, I will list as many mail
order houses as I can get catalogs for, how to contact them, and my
impressions of them. If you're interested in a place that isn't listed
here, by all means, ask them to put me on their list, and I'll include them
in a future edition.
For each company, I will list their name, mailing address, phone number,
a general description of what they sell, and my opinions. Opinions are strictly mine, unless otherwise noted. I will not indicate an opinion unless I have
actually ordered something from a company, unless the opinion is someone
else's.
------
Aitken's Salmon Creek Garden
608 NW 119 St.
Vancouver, WA 98685
(206) 573-4472
A wide variety of irises, and some orchids.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5
Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
Old garden roses.
------
The Aril Patch catalog $.75
3843 Concord Blvd. (We have less experience
Concord, CA 94519 with these since we grow
Aril Irises. Catalog $.75
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Banana Tree, Inc.
715 Northampton St.
Easton , PA 18042
Phone: (215) 253 9589
Fax: (215) 253 4864
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $3.00, and lists rare seeds, mostly tropicals, gingers,
bananas.
36 pages of Interesting Reading!
------
Breck's Bulbs
U.S. Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
Peoria, IL 61632
Orders: (309) 689-3870
Breck's sells bulbs imported from Holland: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, etc.
OPINION: Overall, I am not terribly impressed with Breck's. Their merchandise
(contrary to the catalog hype) is not particularly premium, but their prices
are higher than most places, even some places which have superior stock.
They do not list hardiness for anything, though most of what they sell should
do fine most places in the U.S. (they don't sell any of the really tender
bulbs, like glads). You can do better elsewhere.
Note that Breck's Bulbs appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Spring Hill, another company on my "Avoid" list.
------
Bridges Roses
2734 Toney Rd.
Lawndale, NC 28090
Phone: (704) 538-9412
Fax: (704) 538-1521
Mostly miniature roses, and a few hybrid teas.
------
George C. Bush
Clean Shaven Iris
1739 Memory Lane Extended
York, PA 17402
Phone: (717) 755-0557
Siberian Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
C.W.S. Roses
2232 Gale Ave.
Coquitlam, BC V3K 2Y8
CANADA
Miniature Roses.
------
Caprice Farm Nursery
15425 SW Pleasant Hill Rd.
Sherwood, OR 97140
Phone: (503)625-7241
They specialize in peonies, daylillies, and irises.
Thanks to lindap@scic.intel.com (Linda Peake) for this listing.
------
Carlton Rose Nurseries
P.O. Box 366
Carlton, OR 97111
Phone: (503) 852-7135
Roses.
------
Chamblee's Rose Nursery
10926 US Hwy. 69 N
Tyler, TX 75706-8742
Phone: 1-800-256-7673
Fax: (903) 882-3597
Miniature roses, and old garden roses.
------
Cooley's
11553 Silverton Rd. NE
Silverton, Oregon 97381
Tall Bearded Irises. Color catalog $3 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Draycott Gardens
Carol Warner
16815 Falls Road
Upperco, MD 21155
Phone: (410) 374-4788
Siberian Irises. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
-----
Dutch Gardens, Inc.
P.O. Box 200
Adelphia, NJ 07710
Phone: (908) 780-2713
Fax: 908 708-7720
Thanks to kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster) for this address.
nguyenpd@ntmtv.com reports:
*** Good selection of basic Holland bulbs; good prices, esp. in
quantity (group order program esp.). Excellent color
catalog with pictures of all cultivars.
*** Highly recommend
------
Ensata Gardens
9823 E. Michigan Ave.
Galesburg, Michigan 49053
(616) 665-7500
Japanese Irises. Catalog $2
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Flowery Branch
P.O. Box 1330
Flowery Branch, GA 30542
Phone: (404) 536-8380 Mon.-Fri. 10 AM-4 PM
Fax: (404) 532-7825
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $2.00, the 1994 edition 'A Garden of Delights' is 100
pages, and lists a LOT of seeds as well (between 1000 and 2000 different
kinds) (ornamentals, herbs, everlastings).
------
Flowers Tn Friends Miniature Roses
9590 100th St SE
Alto, MI 49302
Phone: (616) 891-1226
Miniature roses.
------
Four Seasons Nursery
Dept. 9
1706 Morrissey Dr.
Bloomington, IL 61704
Orders: (309) 663-9551
Four Seasons sells a wide variety of nursery stock, like bushes, trees, and
bulbs. They also have a limited selection of garden supplies.
------
Fungi Perfecti
PO Box 7634
Olympia, WA 98507
Phone: (206) 426-9292
Fax: (206) 426-9377
Fungi Perfecti sells fungus. Thanks to Kris Carroll (kcarrol@u.washington.edu)
for bringing this to my attention.
------
Gardener's Eden
P.O. Box 7307
San Francisco, CA 94120-7307
Orders: 1-800-822-9600
Customer Service: 1-800-822-1214
Fax: (415) 421-5153
Mostly upscale garden-stuff, like furniture, birdhouses, and so forth. No
plants to speak of.
------
Gardener's Supply Co.
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington, VT 05401
Orders/Customer Service: (802) 863-1700
TDD: (802) 660-3530
Fax: (802) 660-4600
All kinds of gardening supplies, and a few plants.
OPINION: I have had good experiences with this company. Their products
appear to be of a uniformly high quality, and a lot of people in rec.gardens
swear by them. At least one of their employees reads this newsgroup, so
you may be able to get answers "from the horse's mouth," if you know who
to ask. If anybody can supply me with his E-mail address, I would appreciate
it (for future editions).
------
Gardens Alive
5100 Schenley Place
Lawrenceburg, IN 47025
Orders: (812) 537-8650
Fax: (812) 537-5108
Organic gardening supplies.
------
Giles Ramblin' Roses
2968 SR 710
Okeechobee, FL 34974
Phone: (813) 763-6611
Roses.
------
Gurney's
110 Capital St.
Yankton, SD 57079
Orders: (605) 665-1930
Customer Assistance: (605) 665-1671
Gurney's sells nearly everything under the sun: seeds, shrubs, trees, bulbs,
garden supplies, you name it, and they probably sell it.
OPINION: I ordered seeds, bushes, and trees from Gurney's this year. The
quality was generally proportional to the price paid: some things are really
good, but the el-cheapo specials sometimes left something to be desired.
Their horticultural staff appears knowledgeable, and certainly friendly.
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports that she had some bad
experiences with Gurney's a number of years ago, relating to shipping and
billing screw-ups. She hasn't ordered from them since, so I don't know if
this is an isolated incident, or the result of generally bad management.
Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
------
Hardy Roses for the North
Box 2048
Grand Forks, BC V0H 1H0
CANADA
Box 273
Danville, WA 99121-0273
Fax: (604) 442-2766
Own-Root (not grafted) roses.
------
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 NE Riverside Dr.
St. Paul, OR 91737
Orders: (503) 538-1576
This is a catalog of "old" roses: not a hybrid tea to be found. If you're
looking for english or unusual roses, this is the place to go.
OPINION: If you are a rose grower, and you are still growing hybrid teas,
this catalog will convert you. Many of the old roses offered here are just
as good, if not better than, the more common modern roses. The catalog offers
a lot of information about a zillion different roses, including hardiness,
and (my favorite) lists of roses well-suited for particular uses (i.e.
roses for growing over trellises, roses for scent, etc.). Their stock is
first-rate, and all grown on its own roots, so there are no bud unions to
worry about. There is no separate phone number for questions, but I found
the people answering the phone to be knowledgeable and helpful. Two thumbs
up. Note that they charge $5 for the catalog, but once you're on their
mailing list (i.e. after you buy something), they'll send it free.
------
Henry Field's
415 North Burnett
Shenandoah, IA 51602
Orders: (605) 665-9391
Fax: (605) 665-2601
Customer Service: (605) 665-4491
A general seeds-and-stuff catalog. They sell seeds, plants, and bulbs.
------
Hidden Garden Nursery
13515 SE Briggs
Milwaukie, OR 97222-6117
Miniature roses.
------
Holland Bulb Farms
423 Borad St.
P.O. Box 220
Tatamy PA 18085-0220
Orders: 1-800-283-5082
Another bulb catalog.
------
Hortico
723 Robson Rd.
Waterton, Ontario L0R 2H1
CANADA
Phone: (905) 689-6984 or (905) 689-3002
Fax: (905) 689-6566
Roses. Catalog costs $3.
------
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman
P.O. Box 1058
Redwood City, California, 94064
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $1.00, and is worth every cent. The 1994 edition of
the Ethnobotanical Catalog of Seeds is 95 pages and lists a LOT of seeds
(herbs, trees, vegetables, some ornamentals), as well as some
books and other literature.
More info is printed on every seed package, and there are plenty of
seeds per package. (The motto is: 'If seed production was bountiful
you'll get more seeds).
------
Jackson & Perkins
P.O. Box 1028
Medford, OR 97501
Orders: 1-800-292-4769
J&P actually publishes more different catalogs than you can shake a stick at.
They are highly respected, though I've never ordered anything from them.
------
J. W. Jung Seed & Nursery
335 S. High St.
Randolph, WI 53957-0001
Orders: 1-800-247-JUNG
Customer Service: 1-800-297-3123
Jung's sells seeds, nursery stock, a few bulbs, and supplies
------
Justice Miniature Roses
5947 SW Kahle Rd.
Wilsonville, OR 97070
Phone: (503) 682-2370
Miniature Roses.
------
Lee Valley Tools Ltd.
P.O. Box 6295, Stn. J
Ottawa, Ontario K2A 1T4
Canada
Phone Order: 1-800-267-8767
FAX: 1-800-668-1807
Customer Service: 1-800-267-8761
They carry mostly really neat woodworking tools but have a garden supply
section that has some interesting things. Hope this helps.
Thanks to Janet Lupson (jlupson@uoguelph.ca) for this entry.
------
Lenington Gardens
7007 Manchester Ave.
Kansas City, MO 64133
Tim Fehr (FEHRTJ@CNSVAX.UWEC.EDU) Provided this address and reports:
We just returned from Kansas City and had the pleasure of visiting
Lenington gardens - over 1,000 varieties of daylillies. Robert
Lenington and his wife opened the garden 2 hours early to accommodate
our travel schedule. We were treated to tour of the gardens and it
was really impressive. They introduced many of the Marsh cultivars
including the Prairie and Chicago series. Seeing 30 feet of Prairie
Blue Eyes or Chicago Knobby in bloom makes quite an impression. The
Leningtons host garden clubs during the summer they said and run a
mail order business.
I was especially delighted to see some of the Lenington families own
introductions. Two were really eye catching FUZZ BUNNIES is a lemon
yellow double with really consistent double form and WINE DELIGHT is
a small wine-red flower with a real red eye zone - this had up to 40
buds on many of the scapes and there were lots of scapes so it should
bloom for quite a long time. A landscaper or gardeners delight indeed!
Send for a catalog - prices were very reasonable - I would guess 90% are
under $20.00 - 50% at or under $10.00.
Donna Sullivan (sully@mathworks.com) reports:
I ordered from their catalog last fall and the daylilly varieties were
outstanding! They arrived in good shape (I'm in Massachusetts) and are
coming up strong this summer. Looking forward to the blooms. If anyone is
looking for variety in daylillies, their catalog is wonderful and
inexpensive. I ordered with a friend and if you ordered more than a certain
amount, everything was 50% off!
------
Lilypons Water Gardens
Box 10
Lilypons, MD 21717-0010
Phone: (301) 428-0686
Pond stuff. Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this
address.
------
Louisiana Nursery
Rt. 7, Box 43
Opelousas, LA 70570
Louisiana Irises. Also daylillies and some other bulbs and plants.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
McDaniel's Miniature Roses
7523 Zemco St.
Lemon Grove, CA 91945
Miniature roses.
------
Michigan Bulb Co.
1950 Waldorf NW
Grad Rapids, MI 49550-0500
Michigan Bulb Company sells bulbs, perennials, and other assorted plants.
OPINION: This catalog is filled with the kind of BREATHLESS PROSE and
AMAZING BARGAINS designed to stampede the gardener into making impulse
purchases. Their prices are cheap, but selection is limited, and quality
was very mediocre. In addition, I was unable to find a phone number anywhere
in the catalog--this could be a real problem, if you have problems with your
order. To their credit, they generally include hardiness information.
On the other hand, they also sell the "Blue Girl" rose, which is an automatic
two demerits in my book. Go elsewhere.
jsr@geneab.b23a.ingr.com (Jeff Reifsteck) reports:
I've had nothing but bad news from Michigan Bulb. The plants were poor and
didn't survive. They did replace them without question but my 40 creeping
myrtle (6" evergreen ground cover) became 40 crape myrtle (a big bush and
a lot more expensive). I needed ground cover not bushes. Except for the
replacement of a "Blue Girl" rose all the other replacements were not plantable.
apilote@wtcd.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Angela Pilote) reports:
Last year I ordered some things from them -- NEVER AGAIN!
I even told my husband to remind me of the poor quality
of there plants and bulbs if he even SEES me *looking* at one
of their catalogs.
None of the plants survived and only about half (maybe less)
of the bulbs came up. The bulbs also seemed very small
and I think I read somewhere that this is a sign that the
bulbs have not matured enough to bloom.
The prices seem to be good, but if you factor in the survival
rate and time invested -- it's not a deal. I'm better off paying
premium prices at my nursery for good quality plants and bulbs.
[Whew! I guess the verdict is in on this one!]
------
Michigan Miniature Roses
45951 Hull Rd.
Belleville, MI 48111
Phone: (313) 699-6698
Miniature Roses.
------
Miller's Manor Gardens
3167 E. US 224
Ossian, IN 46777
A wide variety of irises, daylilies, and hosta.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Mini Rose Garden
1043 Mini-Rose Bldg.
Cross Hill, SC 29332
Miniature Roses.
------
National Arbor Day Foundation
100 Arbor Ave.
Nebraska City, NE 68410
All kinds of trees
OPINION: The National Arbor Day Foundation is a nonprofit organization
which promotes the planting of trees. They run frequent membership blitzes
where they offer to send you 10 free trees for joining. I did. You do get
10 free trees. They're all seedlings (no real surprise), but it can be
hard to tell them apart, since they are labeled with a spot of colored
paint which is hard to see. Their main method of raising funds appears to
be selling trees, of which they have a good selection and reasonable prices.
Might be worth joining if you plan to plant a lot of trees, or believe in
their cause.
------
Netherland Bulb Co.
13 McFadden Rd.
Easton, PA 18042-9078
Orders: 1-800-788-8547
Customer Assistance: (610) 253-8879
Netherland Bulb Co. sells bulbs and other plants grown from their roots.
OPINION: Mostly big pictures and not much else, this catalog will entice
the winter-weary gardener into buying lots and lots of colorful plants.
Their prices are cheap, but their stock is mediocre, and selection is very
limited. Hardiness information is nonexistent, though most of what they
sell should do OK most places in the U.S. Unless you're really pressed
for money, you can do better elsewhere--just keep in mind that you get
what you pay for.
Cate Williams (williams@ssnet.com) reports: I'd like to really say that
Netherlands Bulbs is HORRIBLE! I got suckered by the prices, and ended
up with a bunch of seriously diseased tulips -- so sick, that I can't
plant any more in that bed for two years. N.B. is simply dangerous.
My .02$.
------
New Holland Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 335
Rockport, IL 62370-0335
Bulbs, and assorted perennials. Note the lack of a phone number, which
could cause problems if you have difficulty with an order.
------
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 307
Rowley, MA 01969
Phone: (508) 948-7964
Orders: 1-800-426-6485
On the West Coast:
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 473
Ontario, CA 91762
Phone: (909) 984-2223
Orders: 1-800-662-9669
A large selection of miniature roses, and some supplies for those who like
to grow them (like miniature vases)
OPINION: This company is also on my "Good-Guys" list. Their prices are
quite reasonable, and their stock is high quality. Their catalog has a photo
of many of the offerings. If you are into miniature roses (or would like to
be), this is the catalog to get.
------
Ohio Gardens
102 Laramie Road
Marietta, OH 45750
Miniature Tall Bearded Iris. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Oregon Miniature Roses
8285 SW 185th Ave.
Beaverton, OR 97007
Miniature roses.
------
Paradise Water Gardens
62 May Street
Whitman, MA 02382
Water garden supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Park Seed Co.
Cokesbury Rd.
Greenwood, SC 29647-0001
Orders: (803) 223-7333
Customer Service: (803) 941-4480
Park Seed sells seeds, a few smaller plants, some bulbs, and garden supplies
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports:
The Washington State Attorney General's office considers them to be one
of the top ten mail order companies in the country. They will refund
money for just about any reason, they have always been unfailingly
courteous when I have called, they are knowledgeable, and will get more
information for you if they do not have it on hand. The one person I
know that had a customer dispute with them, was very satisfied with how
they handled it, it turned out to be a quarantined plans she had
ordered. They found her a local nursery that carried the plant, and had
them reserve one for her, refunded her money, and apologized
for the inexperienced phone trainee that had taken her order. They are
always very friendly, and making comments like, oh that's a nice
variety. I have never heard them say anything bad about any other
company, and they are a marvel of customer appreciation. When my
stepfather retired as head of the State Capitol grounds after twenty
years, the company sent him a letter of appreciation for his support
over the years. And he of course, had nothing but great things to say of
them, based on over thirty five years of professional contact.
------
Quality Dutch Bulbs
P.O. Box 225
50 Lake Dr.
Hillsdale, NJ 07642-0225
Phone: (215) 253-9570
Orders: 1-800-755-2852
Bulbs (need I say more?).
------
Raintree Nursery
391 Butts Road
Morton, WA 98356
(206) 496-6400
Fruit Trees
Thanks to Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) for this entry.
------
Rialto Gardens
1146 W. Rialto
Fresno, CA 93705
Reblooming Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Roses Unlimited
Rt. 1 Box 587
Laurens, SC 29360
Phone: (803) 682-9112
Roses.
------
Santa Barbara Water Gardens
Box 4353
Santa Barbara, CA 93140
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Schreiner's
3629 Quinaby Road
Salem, Oregon 97303
1-800-525-2367 for orders
1-503-393-3232 for questions
Tall Bearded Irises, color catalog $4 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Seed Savers Exchange
Kent Whealy-Director
Rural Route 3, Box 239
Decorah, Iowa 52101
jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu provided this entry, and says:
These are great folks and it's a very worthwhile program.
------
Seeds of Change
P.O. Box 15700
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87506-5700
julianet@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Juliane Thomas) provided this address and reports:
My husband found this address because he wants to do some organic
gardening, and these are supposed to be seeds which come from plants
uncontaminated by pesticides or chemical fertilizers. He hasn't
ordered any yet, but he probably will very soon.
------
Sequoia Nursery/Moore Miniature Roses
2519 E. Noble
Visalia, CA 93292
Phone: (209) 732-0190
Miniature Roses.
------
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
Orders: East (203) 482-3638
West (408) 335-6910
Customer Service: (203) 482-3638
Horticultural Help: (408) 335-6910
Shepherd's sells mostly seeds, but also a few plants, and some kitchen and
garden supplies.
OPINION: The stylish illustrations in this catalog give it a distinctly
yuppie feel, but this is a good catalog nevertheless. They have a number
of varieties that are hard to find elsewhere (a whole PAGE of ornamental
sunflowers!), and a wealth of useful horticultural information. My order
arrived promptly, in good order, and appears to be high quality (it is still
a little soon for things to be sprouting around here, though). Prices are
a little above average, but seeds are cheap no matter how you slice it.
------
Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery,
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR 97501-1538
Phone: (503) 772-6846
Catalog $2
Thanks to Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) for this entry.
------
Slocum Water Gardens
1101 Cypress Gardens Boulevard
Winter Haven, FL 33880-6099
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Smith & Hawken
Two Arbor Lane
P.O. Box 6900
Florence, KY 41022-6900
Smith & Hawken sells mostly supplies and yard stuff, but also some seeds
and live plants.
------
Spring Hill
Mail Order Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
P.O. Box 1758
Peoria, IL 61656-1758
Orders: (309) 689-3800
Customer Service: (309) 689-3849
Spring Hill sells just about any kind of plant that catches their fancy.
OPINION: Spring Hill is one of these places that is in the business of
dumping cheap, inappropriate merchandise on unsuspecting customers. The
quality of their merchandise is mediocre, even though the prices are about
average. The provide little or no hardiness information, which is especially
troublesome considering that they sell some plants (like carnations) for
outdoor planting, even though they will not survive the winter in large
portions of the U.S. Furthermore, if you ever buy anything from Spring Hill,
you will be on their mailing list but good. I have received no less than
four different catalogs from them in the last two months (not even counting
the large number of "special offers" which seem to arrive about once a week,
and at least one telemarketing call). Avoid this company like the plague.
Note that Spring Hill appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Breck's Bulbs, another company on my "Avoid" list.
Al Harrington [alh@hprnd.rose.hp.com] says:
I think you are being way to hard on Spring Hill. I realize that
they do not supply hardiness information, and that some of their
plants are not in the best shape - their customer service is very
good. I purchased the carnation collection (15 plants) and 2 of
them died. I got credited for all 15 as it was a collection.
I ordered a lot of stuff from them (over 100 plants) and just about
all are doing just fine - what isn't I get credit for.
If nothing else seeing color pictures of *everything* they sell is
nice. :-)
------
Stark Brothers
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MO 63353-0010
Orders: 1-800-325-4180
Customer Service: 1-800-478-2759
Stark Brothers sells almost exclusively fruit trees, and a few ornamentals.
Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) reports: Stark Brothers have been around
for a long time. Many of their fruit trees are their own hybrids. I have
order from them twice, both times the orders were very well packed and the
trees were healthy and in general good shape. I planted a local nursery apple
tree and a Stark tree the same weekend. The Stark tree has done much better.
It has grown faster and produce fruit earlier than the local nursery tree.
The catalog is well written and gives a lot of information on each tree.
------
Taylor's Roses
P.O. Box 11272
Chicksaw, AL 36671-0272
Phone: (205) 456-7753
Miniature roses.
------
Tetra Pond
Box 4858
Toms River, NJ 08754-9946
Water garden and pond supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Texas Mini Roses
P.O. Box 267
Denton, TX 76202
Phone: (817) 566-3034
Miniature roses.
------
Tiny Petals Miniature Rose Nursery
483 Minot Ave.
Chula Vista CA 91910
Phone: (619) 422-0385
Miniature roses.
------
Trophy Roses, LTD
1308 N. Kennicott Ave.
Arlington Heights, IL 60004
Orders/Catalogs: (708) 253-0998
Fax: (708) 253-0738
Roses.
------
Van Dyek's Flower Farm
PO Box 430
Brightwaters, NY 11718-0430
Bulbs.
Thanks to Howard Fujimoto (hmf00@eng.amdahl.com) for this listing.
------
Van Ness Water Gardens
2460 North Euclid
Upland, CA 91786-1199
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Waterford Gardens
74 East Allendale Road
Saddle River, NJ 07458
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Wayside Gardens
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
Phone: 1-800-845-1124
Thanks to jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu for this listing.
------
White Flower Farm
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
Orders: (203) 496-9600
White Flower Farm sells just about every kind of ornamental plant that one
might reasonably want to grow in North America.
OPINION: I will state my bias right up front: White Flower Farm is far and
away my favorite catalog. They have a reputation for being "upscale,"
but their prices are only slightly above average. Their catalog offers
a wealth of useful horticultural information, along with interesting
commentary about each and every plant. All the information you need to know
(hardiness, planting requirements, light requirements, etc.) is compiled
in a single useful index, as well as being stated with the description of
each plant. The catalog is organized alphabetically by genus name, so
in addition to being fun to read (and look at the pictures), it makes a
very useful reference. Of course, the catalog is only secondary to the
merchandise. Fortunately, their produce more than lives up to the high
standards set by the catalog: it is absolutely first rate. When I was buying
daylillies, crocuses, and daffodils from White Flower Farm and other
catalogs, the bulbs or roots from White Flower were often more than twice
the size of the ones from other vendors, and at a comparable price.
Even if you never buy anything from White Flower Farm, you should get their
catalog as a reference, since it is almost as good as buying a book on
ornamental plants, but a whole lot cheaper.
Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) disagrees with some of my tone:
Not really a flame, but please! I have a few of White Flower Farm's
catalogues, and I do value them for their reference quality and nice
photographs. But their plants and garden information is distinctively East
Coast in character. I would very much enjoy growing a number of plants they
list, but no longer attempt such folly as they are definitely inappropriate
for my arid western climate (as would many of the plants I cherish in my
garden be inappropriate for yours).
Please, let us not forget those 'less fortunate' souls who garden elsewhere!
North America is a big place, and I do not expect my garden to look like
your any more that I expect your to look like mine.
This reminds me of the search for a "North American gardening style". I can
think of nothing more ridiculous to search for - as if it could ever be
defined for a continent like ours - or that you'd want to try! This has
always been a way to 'one up' the 'English style'. Well, England is a
relatively small place, and even then it contains diversity more than we
imagine.
[I must plead guilty here. Perhaps I should have said that they sell "just
about any ornamental plant one might reasonably want to grow East of the
Rockies...."]
------
Gilbert H Wild and Son, Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Sarcoxie, Mo. 64862-0338
Phone: (417) 548-3514
Thanks to Joanne Kube-Harderwijk (joannek@empros.com) for this address.
Harry Boswell (u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil) reports:
....an excellent mail-order nursery
specializing in daylilies and peonies (I've ordered from them
several times, with very good results)....
Great catalog, with lots of color photos, good discount section in the
back.
------
Wildseed Farms, Inc.
1101 Campo Rosa Rd, PO Box 308
Eagle Lake, TX 77434
Phone: 1-800-848-0078
Fax: (409) 234-7407
Wildflower seeds, including some hard-to-find ones.
Thanks to Chad Segura (segura@owlnet.rice.edu) for this entry.
-----
Woodlanders, Inc.
1128 Colleton Ave.
Aiken, SC 29801
Fax/Phone: (803) 648-7522
Plants, with an emphasis on native plants, and a few books.
Thanks to Anne Wolf (WOLFFMAD@ACM.ORG), who reports that this is an excellent
catalog.
-----
VII. But Before We Go....
I hope this FAQ has been useful. I also hope it has been accurate. If you
find any mistakes, or have any comments, please send me E-mail at the
address listed at the top of the file. Any suggestions for improving
future editions will be happily accepted, and possibly even acted upon.
This FAQ is also available via the World Wide Web. The URL is:
http://jean-luc.ncsa.uiuc.edu/People/PeterL/PBM-FAQ.html
I will try to get the new edition up as soon as I can. If it isn't
updated within a few days, send me mail and I'll get to it.
There is also a WWW page which allows you to send me comments without having
to know my E-Mail address or anything. You can reach this page at the same
URL as the FAQ itself.
-=*=-
end-July, 1994-plants-by-mail.faq update
Article 38933 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!leppik
From: p-leppi@uiuc.edu (Peter Leppik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Plants By Mail FAQ
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 20 Jul 1994 14:16:51 GMT
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Summary: This FAQ contains information about buying plants and garden
supplies through the mail. It includes suggestions, information
about what to expect, and a lengthy list of mail-order companies.
Opionions about some companies (derived from experiences with those
companies) are included.
Originator: leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:38933 rec.answers:6152 news.answers:24392
Archive-name: plants-by-mail
Posting-Frequency: bimonthly (sporadic)
Plants By Mail FAQ
by Peter Leppik
p-leppi@uiuc.edu
This document is intended to introduce readers to the world of buying
plants by mail order; and also to serve as a central clearinghouse for
information about contacting various mail order plant houses. I make
no claims about being more informed on this topic than your average
Joe, but I saw the need, and I'm willing to put forth the effort to
compile and maintain this.
History:
Updated: 7/12/94
General updates.
Updated: 4/30/94
Originally Created: 3/17/94 (late at night)
Contents:
I. Introduction
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
V. Which Catalog To Order From
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
VII. But Before We Go....
I. Introduction
It seems that one of the most common article titles in rec.gardens is,
"How can I reach XYZZY?" or, "The Plugh company sent me a catalog. Are
they any good?" I hope to be able to answer some of these questions in
a reasonably definitive manner (the first is easy, the second harder),
and provide the neophyte with some introduction to buying plants by mail.
My experience in this area has been short, but intense. After finally
moving from a small condo into a real house (with a YARD and a GARDEN
even!), one of my first projects was to begin widespread replanting of
the yard (which is mostly boring grass, or very ugly hybrid poplars).
To do that, last Fall, I began ordering large numbers of bulbs and plants
from a number of mail-order houses. Some were good, some were bad, and I
learned a lot about what to look for and what to avoid.
I welcome any and all comments. Send them to my E-mail address above.
If there is some catalog not covered here which you think should be, by
all means let me know. If you do send me comments, PLEASE please respect
my poor, overworked mailer. I've had people resend me the entire FAQ just
for a few lines of comments, and I even had one person send me a bunch of
UUencoded binary pictures! Needless to say, this doesn't help me much, and
it wastes my disk space. That said....do send comments, because they do help!
At the end of this document, there is a URL address where you can find an
HTTP version of this FAQ. If you don't know what HTTP is, don't sweat it.
If you do, then you can get this FAQ there. There is also a nifty "point and
shoot" form set up there, so you can mail me comments without having to know
my E-mail address or anything.
I assume that, if you send me comments, you don't mind if they find their way
into a future edition. I'll try to verify this, but sometimes I forget. Thus,
if you DON'T want you name in a future edition of the FAQ, be sure to say so.
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
All opinions in this document are the opinions of the author, unless
otherwise noted. The author is well-known for his arbitrary and
capricious judgments, and cannot be held liable for anything he says
herein. Besides, the author is a poor grad student, and suing him is
like trying to squeeze blood from a rock.
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
If you are like me, you probably have a dozen or two catalogs from various
places, some fancy, others plain, and you're wondering who to order from
and how to tell the difference between a place that really cares, and a place
that is just trying to unload some poor, pathetic bits of green stuff on
The Gullible Majority. In this section, I will outline what I think a
reputable mail order company should do, and what you should consider before
buying a plant sight-unseen.
What a Reputable Mail-Order Company Will Do
1) Every perennial in the catalog should have a clearly indicated hardiness
range. That is, for every perennial (anything you expect to last more than
one year) should have indicated which USDA hardiness zones it will survive in.
Simple adjectives like "hardy," or "tender," are NOT sufficient. Perhaps I am
biased, being a Minnesota native currently living in Illinois, but I have seen
too many catalogs which do not include this crucial information. Without
knowing this, it is too easy to buy plants that won't survive in your climate.
This also includes those of you who live in places like Southern California,
where it never gets cold, since some plants require a period of cold
temperatures every year in order to survive/bloom/etc.
2) Every plant should have its botanical (scientific) name listed. Of course,
this doesn't count for things like roses or tomatoes, which everybody knows
what that are. This may sound picky, but think about it: if you ever want
to get information on this plant from some other source, and they use their
own name, you might have a devil of a time figuring out how to get information.
A plant's botanical name is unique. I have seen places that will take a
standard variety of some plant, come up with a flashy (trademarked) name,
and sell it as something special. Needless to say, this is dishonest.
3) Information on the habitat requirements should be easy to find. By this,
I mean answers to questions like, how much sun does it need, how much water,
and so forth. Nearly every catalog has this, but if you see one that
doesn't, stay away.
4) A good company will have a horticulturist on staff you can call, and
provide the phone number in a prominent place in their catalog. This can
be priceless if you need to know a specific answer about some plant or
another. Some catalogs have a horticulturist, but only one phone number
(i.e. they don't have a separate order line), so don't take the lack of a
"Horticultural Information" phone number to mean a lack of horticultural
information.
Finally, something that you should probably ignore:
5) Every mail order catalog that I've seen offers some sort of guarantee.
This should NOT be a factor in deciding where to buy from. After all, what
good does it do if they replace a plant that died because you can't grow
oranges in Alaska? The replacement will just die, too, and you'll spend
twice as much time on a plant that was Never Meant To Be. Besides, these
places know that 95% of all gardeners will never take advantage of their
guarantee even if the plants do die. Some people have even noted an inverse
relation between the quality of the guarantee and the quality of the plants:
the louder the company proclaims its "FOOLPROOF 100% MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE,"
the worse the plants are when they arrive.
What To Consider Before Taking the Plunge
Okay, so you've got your heart set on the beautiful Creeping Green Stuff.
Before plunking your money and time on it (usually more time than money),
you should stop and ask yourself a few questions:
1) Will it grow in my area? If they don't make it CLEAR (i.e. by telling
you the hardiness zone), then avoid that plant, or buy it from somebody who
will tell you.
2) Do I have a place to put it? It is very easy to get spring fever when
all the catalogs start arriving midwinter, and wind up buying enough
plants to cover every square inch of your yard two or three times over.
Make sure you have a specific place for each and every plant you order, and
make sure you will have the time to plant it when it arrives. Keep in
mind that you will probably have to plant them soon after they arrive,
and you might not be able to control the exact day they arrive. Thus,
ordering 150 bushes for a new hedge from one place, all of which will
arrive via UPS on the same day and need to be planted immediately, is
probably not a good idea. Believe me.
3) Will it really look the way I want it to? Keep in mind that the
pictures in the catalogs are designed to sell plants, and the plants in
your garden will generally not look quite as nice. I have seen a lot of
comments from people in rec.gardens about the rose Blue Girl as a particular
offender in this respect. Also keep in mind that illustrations (as opposed
to photographs) can be very deceptive, too.
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
The most important thing to do when your order arrives is DON'T PANIC!
Good. Take a few deep breaths.
The reason your roses/trees/whatever arrived without any dirt is not because
the company sent you dead plants. Shipping woody plants without dirt
("bare-root") is standard. First, it does not harm the plants
much, as long as the company has taken steps to ensure that the roots don't
dry out. Usually, this involves dipping the roots in some sort of stuff
that helps retain moisture. Second, shipping plants bare-root helps keep
shipping costs down. Shipping with dirt could easily double or triple the
weight of the plant when shipped, and make it that much more expensive to
buy. Finally, shipping plants bare-root helps prevent the spread of pests
that live in the soil (like the Japanese beetle). Needless to say,
unless you're buying small seedlings, it would be expensive for a company to
grow all their stock in greenhouses.
There are a few places which ship plants in pots. Shipping a plant with the
dirt will be less traumatic to the plants, and, as a rule, you can expect these
plants to be healthier, but, because of shipping expenses, they will often also
be much smaller than bare-root plants. Given the option, I will usually buy
the plant shipped in a pot, eve though it will usually be more expensive. In
addition, there are some plants which have to be shipped in pots, simply
because they're too fragile otherwise.
Generally, you will get a little booklet with your order explaining how
to plant your new plants. Usually, the first thing to do (with bare root
plants) is to stick them in a bucket of water for some time. You should do
this as soon as they arrive. Then, dig a hole according to the booklet
instructions, and plant those buggers.
It may take some time for your new plants to leaf out, especially if they're
dormant when shipped. Again, don't panic. If you planted in the spring,
don't call the company to complain that the plants are dead until midsummer.
They'll just tell you to wait, because sometimes the plants take a while to
adjust to their new surroundings.
V. Which Catalog To Order From
If you are buying roses, you should certainly order from a catalog which
specializes in roses. There are quite a few of these catalogs, and you will
generally get better selection, quality, and price than you would from buying
from a catalog which doesn't specialize in roses.
For some reason, this rule of thumb seems to be the other way around when
buying bulbs. I have had the best experiences buying bulbs from White Flower
Farms, which is generally an outstanding catalog, but they aren't even
remotely limited to bulbs. My worst experiences, on the other hand, were
with places that sell only, or mainly bulbs. Go figure.
Not everybody will agree with my judgments. After much consideration (and
several long discussions on the order of "Company X isn't really THAT bad!"),
I've decided that the main consideration has to be consistency. That means
that I can count on large plants, of a uniformly high quality, every time I
order. Note, too, that I haven't yet had anyone take issue with my list of
"Good" companies, just the "Bad" ones. Having said that, here is my list of
best and worst companies, based solely on my personal experiences:
Really Good Companies:
White Flower Farms
Nor'East Miniature Roses
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Gardener's Supply Company
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
Companies To Avoid:
Spring Hill
Michigan Bulb Co.
Breck's Bulbs
Gurney's
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
This section is really the meat of this FAQ. Here, I will list as many mail
order houses as I can get catalogs for, how to contact them, and my
impressions of them. If you're interested in a place that isn't listed
here, by all means, ask them to put me on their list, and I'll include them
in a future edition.
For each company, I will list their name, mailing address, phone number,
a general description of what they sell, and my opinions. Opinions are strictly mine, unless otherwise noted. I will not indicate an opinion unless I have
actually ordered something from a company, unless the opinion is someone
else's.
------
Aitken's Salmon Creek Garden
608 NW 119 St.
Vancouver, WA 98685
(206) 573-4472
A wide variety of irises, and some orchids.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5
Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
Old garden roses.
------
The Aril Patch catalog $.75
3843 Concord Blvd. (We have less experience
Concord, CA 94519 with these since we grow
Aril Irises. Catalog $.75
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Banana Tree, Inc.
715 Northampton St.
Easton , PA 18042
Phone: (215) 253 9589
Fax: (215) 253 4864
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $3.00, and lists rare seeds, mostly tropicals, gingers,
bananas.
36 pages of Interesting Reading!
------
Breck's Bulbs
U.S. Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
Peoria, IL 61632
Orders: (309) 689-3870
Breck's sells bulbs imported from Holland: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, etc.
OPINION: Overall, I am not terribly impressed with Breck's. Their merchandise
(contrary to the catalog hype) is not particularly premium, but their prices
are higher than most places, even some places which have superior stock.
They do not list hardiness for anything, though most of what they sell should
do fine most places in the U.S. (they don't sell any of the really tender
bulbs, like glads). You can do better elsewhere.
Note that Breck's Bulbs appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Spring Hill, another company on my "Avoid" list.
------
Bridges Roses
2734 Toney Rd.
Lawndale, NC 28090
Phone: (704) 538-9412
Fax: (704) 538-1521
Mostly miniature roses, and a few hybrid teas.
------
George C. Bush
Clean Shaven Iris
1739 Memory Lane Extended
York, PA 17402
Phone: (717) 755-0557
Siberian Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
C.W.S. Roses
2232 Gale Ave.
Coquitlam, BC V3K 2Y8
CANADA
Miniature Roses.
------
Caprice Farm Nursery
15425 SW Pleasant Hill Rd.
Sherwood, OR 97140
Phone: (503)625-7241
They specialize in peonies, daylillies, and irises.
Thanks to lindap@scic.intel.com (Linda Peake) for this listing.
------
Carlton Rose Nurseries
P.O. Box 366
Carlton, OR 97111
Phone: (503) 852-7135
Roses.
------
Chamblee's Rose Nursery
10926 US Hwy. 69 N
Tyler, TX 75706-8742
Phone: 1-800-256-7673
Fax: (903) 882-3597
Miniature roses, and old garden roses.
------
Cooley's
11553 Silverton Rd. NE
Silverton, Oregon 97381
Tall Bearded Irises. Color catalog $3 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Draycott Gardens
Carol Warner
16815 Falls Road
Upperco, MD 21155
Phone: (410) 374-4788
Siberian Irises. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
-----
Dutch Gardens, Inc.
P.O. Box 200
Adelphia, NJ 07710
Phone: (908) 780-2713
Fax: 908 708-7720
Thanks to kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster) for this address.
nguyenpd@ntmtv.com reports:
*** Good selection of basic Holland bulbs; good prices, esp. in
quantity (group order program esp.). Excellent color
catalog with pictures of all cultivars.
*** Highly recommend
------
Ensata Gardens
9823 E. Michigan Ave.
Galesburg, Michigan 49053
(616) 665-7500
Japanese Irises. Catalog $2
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
The Flowery Branch
P.O. Box 1330
Flowery Branch, GA 30542
Phone: (404) 536-8380 Mon.-Fri. 10 AM-4 PM
Fax: (404) 532-7825
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $2.00, the 1994 edition 'A Garden of Delights' is 100
pages, and lists a LOT of seeds as well (between 1000 and 2000 different
kinds) (ornamentals, herbs, everlastings).
------
Flowers Tn Friends Miniature Roses
9590 100th St SE
Alto, MI 49302
Phone: (616) 891-1226
Miniature roses.
------
Four Seasons Nursery
Dept. 9
1706 Morrissey Dr.
Bloomington, IL 61704
Orders: (309) 663-9551
Four Seasons sells a wide variety of nursery stock, like bushes, trees, and
bulbs. They also have a limited selection of garden supplies.
------
Fungi Perfecti
PO Box 7634
Olympia, WA 98507
Phone: (206) 426-9292
Fax: (206) 426-9377
Fungi Perfecti sells fungus. Thanks to Kris Carroll (kcarrol@u.washington.edu)
for bringing this to my attention.
------
Gardener's Eden
P.O. Box 7307
San Francisco, CA 94120-7307
Orders: 1-800-822-9600
Customer Service: 1-800-822-1214
Fax: (415) 421-5153
Mostly upscale garden-stuff, like furniture, birdhouses, and so forth. No
plants to speak of.
------
Gardener's Supply Co.
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington, VT 05401
Orders/Customer Service: (802) 863-1700
TDD: (802) 660-3530
Fax: (802) 660-4600
All kinds of gardening supplies, and a few plants.
OPINION: I have had good experiences with this company. Their products
appear to be of a uniformly high quality, and a lot of people in rec.gardens
swear by them. At least one of their employees reads this newsgroup, so
you may be able to get answers "from the horse's mouth," if you know who
to ask. If anybody can supply me with his E-mail address, I would appreciate
it (for future editions).
------
Gardens Alive
5100 Schenley Place
Lawrenceburg, IN 47025
Orders: (812) 537-8650
Fax: (812) 537-5108
Organic gardening supplies.
------
Giles Ramblin' Roses
2968 SR 710
Okeechobee, FL 34974
Phone: (813) 763-6611
Roses.
------
Gurney's
110 Capital St.
Yankton, SD 57079
Orders: (605) 665-1930
Customer Assistance: (605) 665-1671
Gurney's sells nearly everything under the sun: seeds, shrubs, trees, bulbs,
garden supplies, you name it, and they probably sell it.
OPINION: I ordered seeds, bushes, and trees from Gurney's this year. The
quality was generally proportional to the price paid: some things are really
good, but the el-cheapo specials sometimes left something to be desired.
Their horticultural staff appears knowledgeable, and certainly friendly.
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports that she had some bad
experiences with Gurney's a number of years ago, relating to shipping and
billing screw-ups. She hasn't ordered from them since, so I don't know if
this is an isolated incident, or the result of generally bad management.
Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
------
Hardy Roses for the North
Box 2048
Grand Forks, BC V0H 1H0
CANADA
Box 273
Danville, WA 99121-0273
Fax: (604) 442-2766
Own-Root (not grafted) roses.
------
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 NE Riverside Dr.
St. Paul, OR 91737
Orders: (503) 538-1576
This is a catalog of "old" roses: not a hybrid tea to be found. If you're
looking for english or unusual roses, this is the place to go.
OPINION: If you are a rose grower, and you are still growing hybrid teas,
this catalog will convert you. Many of the old roses offered here are just
as good, if not better than, the more common modern roses. The catalog offers
a lot of information about a zillion different roses, including hardiness,
and (my favorite) lists of roses well-suited for particular uses (i.e.
roses for growing over trellises, roses for scent, etc.). Their stock is
first-rate, and all grown on its own roots, so there are no bud unions to
worry about. There is no separate phone number for questions, but I found
the people answering the phone to be knowledgeable and helpful. Two thumbs
up. Note that they charge $5 for the catalog, but once you're on their
mailing list (i.e. after you buy something), they'll send it free.
------
Henry Field's
415 North Burnett
Shenandoah, IA 51602
Orders: (605) 665-9391
Fax: (605) 665-2601
Customer Service: (605) 665-4491
A general seeds-and-stuff catalog. They sell seeds, plants, and bulbs.
------
Hidden Garden Nursery
13515 SE Briggs
Milwaukie, OR 97222-6117
Miniature roses.
------
Holland Bulb Farms
423 Borad St.
P.O. Box 220
Tatamy PA 18085-0220
Orders: 1-800-283-5082
Another bulb catalog.
------
Hortico
723 Robson Rd.
Waterton, Ontario L0R 2H1
CANADA
Phone: (905) 689-6984 or (905) 689-3002
Fax: (905) 689-6566
Roses. Catalog costs $3.
------
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman
P.O. Box 1058
Redwood City, California, 94064
Jarkko Lapinlampi reports:
The catalog costs $1.00, and is worth every cent. The 1994 edition of
the Ethnobotanical Catalog of Seeds is 95 pages and lists a LOT of seeds
(herbs, trees, vegetables, some ornamentals), as well as some
books and other literature.
More info is printed on every seed package, and there are plenty of
seeds per package. (The motto is: 'If seed production was bountiful
you'll get more seeds).
------
Jackson & Perkins
P.O. Box 1028
Medford, OR 97501
Orders: 1-800-292-4769
J&P actually publishes more different catalogs than you can shake a stick at.
They are highly respected, though I've never ordered anything from them.
------
J. W. Jung Seed & Nursery
335 S. High St.
Randolph, WI 53957-0001
Orders: 1-800-247-JUNG
Customer Service: 1-800-297-3123
Jung's sells seeds, nursery stock, a few bulbs, and supplies
------
Justice Miniature Roses
5947 SW Kahle Rd.
Wilsonville, OR 97070
Phone: (503) 682-2370
Miniature Roses.
------
Lee Valley Tools Ltd.
P.O. Box 6295, Stn. J
Ottawa, Ontario K2A 1T4
Canada
Phone Order: 1-800-267-8767
FAX: 1-800-668-1807
Customer Service: 1-800-267-8761
They carry mostly really neat woodworking tools but have a garden supply
section that has some interesting things. Hope this helps.
Thanks to Janet Lupson (jlupson@uoguelph.ca) for this entry.
------
Lenington Gardens
7007 Manchester Ave.
Kansas City, MO 64133
Tim Fehr (FEHRTJ@CNSVAX.UWEC.EDU) Provided this address and reports:
We just returned from Kansas City and had the pleasure of visiting
Lenington gardens - over 1,000 varieties of daylillies. Robert
Lenington and his wife opened the garden 2 hours early to accommodate
our travel schedule. We were treated to tour of the gardens and it
was really impressive. They introduced many of the Marsh cultivars
including the Prairie and Chicago series. Seeing 30 feet of Prairie
Blue Eyes or Chicago Knobby in bloom makes quite an impression. The
Leningtons host garden clubs during the summer they said and run a
mail order business.
I was especially delighted to see some of the Lenington families own
introductions. Two were really eye catching FUZZ BUNNIES is a lemon
yellow double with really consistent double form and WINE DELIGHT is
a small wine-red flower with a real red eye zone - this had up to 40
buds on many of the scapes and there were lots of scapes so it should
bloom for quite a long time. A landscaper or gardeners delight indeed!
Send for a catalog - prices were very reasonable - I would guess 90% are
under $20.00 - 50% at or under $10.00.
Donna Sullivan (sully@mathworks.com) reports:
I ordered from their catalog last fall and the daylilly varieties were
outstanding! They arrived in good shape (I'm in Massachusetts) and are
coming up strong this summer. Looking forward to the blooms. If anyone is
looking for variety in daylillies, their catalog is wonderful and
inexpensive. I ordered with a friend and if you ordered more than a certain
amount, everything was 50% off!
------
Lilypons Water Gardens
Box 10
Lilypons, MD 21717-0010
Phone: (301) 428-0686
Pond stuff. Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this
address.
------
Louisiana Nursery
Rt. 7, Box 43
Opelousas, LA 70570
Louisiana Irises. Also daylillies and some other bulbs and plants.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
McDaniel's Miniature Roses
7523 Zemco St.
Lemon Grove, CA 91945
Miniature roses.
------
Michigan Bulb Co.
1950 Waldorf NW
Grad Rapids, MI 49550-0500
Michigan Bulb Company sells bulbs, perennials, and other assorted plants.
OPINION: This catalog is filled with the kind of BREATHLESS PROSE and
AMAZING BARGAINS designed to stampede the gardener into making impulse
purchases. Their prices are cheap, but selection is limited, and quality
was very mediocre. In addition, I was unable to find a phone number anywhere
in the catalog--this could be a real problem, if you have problems with your
order. To their credit, they generally include hardiness information.
On the other hand, they also sell the "Blue Girl" rose, which is an automatic
two demerits in my book. Go elsewhere.
jsr@geneab.b23a.ingr.com (Jeff Reifsteck) reports:
I've had nothing but bad news from Michigan Bulb. The plants were poor and
didn't survive. They did replace them without question but my 40 creeping
myrtle (6" evergreen ground cover) became 40 crape myrtle (a big bush and
a lot more expensive). I needed ground cover not bushes. Except for the
replacement of a "Blue Girl" rose all the other replacements were not plantable.
apilote@wtcd.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Angela Pilote) reports:
Last year I ordered some things from them -- NEVER AGAIN!
I even told my husband to remind me of the poor quality
of there plants and bulbs if he even SEES me *looking* at one
of their catalogs.
None of the plants survived and only about half (maybe less)
of the bulbs came up. The bulbs also seemed very small
and I think I read somewhere that this is a sign that the
bulbs have not matured enough to bloom.
The prices seem to be good, but if you factor in the survival
rate and time invested -- it's not a deal. I'm better off paying
premium prices at my nursery for good quality plants and bulbs.
[Whew! I guess the verdict is in on this one!]
------
Michigan Miniature Roses
45951 Hull Rd.
Belleville, MI 48111
Phone: (313) 699-6698
Miniature Roses.
------
Miller's Manor Gardens
3167 E. US 224
Ossian, IN 46777
A wide variety of irises, daylilies, and hosta.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Mini Rose Garden
1043 Mini-Rose Bldg.
Cross Hill, SC 29332
Miniature Roses.
------
National Arbor Day Foundation
100 Arbor Ave.
Nebraska City, NE 68410
All kinds of trees
OPINION: The National Arbor Day Foundation is a nonprofit organization
which promotes the planting of trees. They run frequent membership blitzes
where they offer to send you 10 free trees for joining. I did. You do get
10 free trees. They're all seedlings (no real surprise), but it can be
hard to tell them apart, since they are labeled with a spot of colored
paint which is hard to see. Their main method of raising funds appears to
be selling trees, of which they have a good selection and reasonable prices.
Might be worth joining if you plan to plant a lot of trees, or believe in
their cause.
------
Netherland Bulb Co.
13 McFadden Rd.
Easton, PA 18042-9078
Orders: 1-800-788-8547
Customer Assistance: (610) 253-8879
Netherland Bulb Co. sells bulbs and other plants grown from their roots.
OPINION: Mostly big pictures and not much else, this catalog will entice
the winter-weary gardener into buying lots and lots of colorful plants.
Their prices are cheap, but their stock is mediocre, and selection is very
limited. Hardiness information is nonexistent, though most of what they
sell should do OK most places in the U.S. Unless you're really pressed
for money, you can do better elsewhere--just keep in mind that you get
what you pay for.
Cate Williams (williams@ssnet.com) reports: I'd like to really say that
Netherlands Bulbs is HORRIBLE! I got suckered by the prices, and ended
up with a bunch of seriously diseased tulips -- so sick, that I can't
plant any more in that bed for two years. N.B. is simply dangerous.
My .02$.
------
New Holland Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 335
Rockport, IL 62370-0335
Bulbs, and assorted perennials. Note the lack of a phone number, which
could cause problems if you have difficulty with an order.
------
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 307
Rowley, MA 01969
Phone: (508) 948-7964
Orders: 1-800-426-6485
On the West Coast:
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 473
Ontario, CA 91762
Phone: (909) 984-2223
Orders: 1-800-662-9669
A large selection of miniature roses, and some supplies for those who like
to grow them (like miniature vases)
OPINION: This company is also on my "Good-Guys" list. Their prices are
quite reasonable, and their stock is high quality. Their catalog has a photo
of many of the offerings. If you are into miniature roses (or would like to
be), this is the catalog to get.
------
Ohio Gardens
102 Laramie Road
Marietta, OH 45750
Miniature Tall Bearded Iris. Catalog $1
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Oregon Miniature Roses
8285 SW 185th Ave.
Beaverton, OR 97007
Miniature roses.
------
Paradise Water Gardens
62 May Street
Whitman, MA 02382
Water garden supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Park Seed Co.
Cokesbury Rd.
Greenwood, SC 29647-0001
Orders: (803) 223-7333
Customer Service: (803) 941-4480
Park Seed sells seeds, a few smaller plants, some bulbs, and garden supplies
Susan Profit (tinne@isumataq.eskimo.com) reports:
The Washington State Attorney General's office considers them to be one
of the top ten mail order companies in the country. They will refund
money for just about any reason, they have always been unfailingly
courteous when I have called, they are knowledgeable, and will get more
information for you if they do not have it on hand. The one person I
know that had a customer dispute with them, was very satisfied with how
they handled it, it turned out to be a quarantined plans she had
ordered. They found her a local nursery that carried the plant, and had
them reserve one for her, refunded her money, and apologized
for the inexperienced phone trainee that had taken her order. They are
always very friendly, and making comments like, oh that's a nice
variety. I have never heard them say anything bad about any other
company, and they are a marvel of customer appreciation. When my
stepfather retired as head of the State Capitol grounds after twenty
years, the company sent him a letter of appreciation for his support
over the years. And he of course, had nothing but great things to say of
them, based on over thirty five years of professional contact.
------
Quality Dutch Bulbs
P.O. Box 225
50 Lake Dr.
Hillsdale, NJ 07642-0225
Phone: (215) 253-9570
Orders: 1-800-755-2852
Bulbs (need I say more?).
------
Raintree Nursery
391 Butts Road
Morton, WA 98356
(206) 496-6400
Fruit Trees
Thanks to Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) for this entry.
------
Rialto Gardens
1146 W. Rialto
Fresno, CA 93705
Reblooming Irises.
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry.
------
Roses Unlimited
Rt. 1 Box 587
Laurens, SC 29360
Phone: (803) 682-9112
Roses.
------
Santa Barbara Water Gardens
Box 4353
Santa Barbara, CA 93140
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Schreiner's
3629 Quinaby Road
Salem, Oregon 97303
1-800-525-2367 for orders
1-503-393-3232 for questions
Tall Bearded Irises, color catalog $4 (deductible from order)
Thanks to Jim Wilson for this entry
------
Seed Savers Exchange
Kent Whealy-Director
Rural Route 3, Box 239
Decorah, Iowa 52101
jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu provided this entry, and says:
These are great folks and it's a very worthwhile program.
------
Seeds of Change
P.O. Box 15700
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87506-5700
julianet@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Juliane Thomas) provided this address and reports:
My husband found this address because he wants to do some organic
gardening, and these are supposed to be seeds which come from plants
uncontaminated by pesticides or chemical fertilizers. He hasn't
ordered any yet, but he probably will very soon.
------
Sequoia Nursery/Moore Miniature Roses
2519 E. Noble
Visalia, CA 93292
Phone: (209) 732-0190
Miniature Roses.
------
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
Orders: East (203) 482-3638
West (408) 335-6910
Customer Service: (203) 482-3638
Horticultural Help: (408) 335-6910
Shepherd's sells mostly seeds, but also a few plants, and some kitchen and
garden supplies.
OPINION: The stylish illustrations in this catalog give it a distinctly
yuppie feel, but this is a good catalog nevertheless. They have a number
of varieties that are hard to find elsewhere (a whole PAGE of ornamental
sunflowers!), and a wealth of useful horticultural information. My order
arrived promptly, in good order, and appears to be high quality (it is still
a little soon for things to be sprouting around here, though). Prices are
a little above average, but seeds are cheap no matter how you slice it.
------
Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery,
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR 97501-1538
Phone: (503) 772-6846
Catalog $2
Thanks to Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) for this entry.
------
Slocum Water Gardens
1101 Cypress Gardens Boulevard
Winter Haven, FL 33880-6099
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Smith & Hawken
Two Arbor Lane
P.O. Box 6900
Florence, KY 41022-6900
Smith & Hawken sells mostly supplies and yard stuff, but also some seeds
and live plants.
------
Spring Hill
Mail Order Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
P.O. Box 1758
Peoria, IL 61656-1758
Orders: (309) 689-3800
Customer Service: (309) 689-3849
Spring Hill sells just about any kind of plant that catches their fancy.
OPINION: Spring Hill is one of these places that is in the business of
dumping cheap, inappropriate merchandise on unsuspecting customers. The
quality of their merchandise is mediocre, even though the prices are about
average. The provide little or no hardiness information, which is especially
troublesome considering that they sell some plants (like carnations) for
outdoor planting, even though they will not survive the winter in large
portions of the U.S. Furthermore, if you ever buy anything from Spring Hill,
you will be on their mailing list but good. I have received no less than
four different catalogs from them in the last two months (not even counting
the large number of "special offers" which seem to arrive about once a week,
and at least one telemarketing call). Avoid this company like the plague.
Note that Spring Hill appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Breck's Bulbs, another company on my "Avoid" list.
Al Harrington [alh@hprnd.rose.hp.com] says:
I think you are being way to hard on Spring Hill. I realize that
they do not supply hardiness information, and that some of their
plants are not in the best shape - their customer service is very
good. I purchased the carnation collection (15 plants) and 2 of
them died. I got credited for all 15 as it was a collection.
I ordered a lot of stuff from them (over 100 plants) and just about
all are doing just fine - what isn't I get credit for.
If nothing else seeing color pictures of *everything* they sell is
nice. :-)
------
Stark Brothers
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MO 63353-0010
Orders: 1-800-325-4180
Customer Service: 1-800-478-2759
Stark Brothers sells almost exclusively fruit trees, and a few ornamentals.
Eric Reed (ericr@corgi.sps.mot.com) reports: Stark Brothers have been around
for a long time. Many of their fruit trees are their own hybrids. I have
order from them twice, both times the orders were very well packed and the
trees were healthy and in general good shape. I planted a local nursery apple
tree and a Stark tree the same weekend. The Stark tree has done much better.
It has grown faster and produce fruit earlier than the local nursery tree.
The catalog is well written and gives a lot of information on each tree.
------
Taylor's Roses
P.O. Box 11272
Chicksaw, AL 36671-0272
Phone: (205) 456-7753
Miniature roses.
------
Tetra Pond
Box 4858
Toms River, NJ 08754-9946
Water garden and pond supplies
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Texas Mini Roses
P.O. Box 267
Denton, TX 76202
Phone: (817) 566-3034
Miniature roses.
------
Tiny Petals Miniature Rose Nursery
483 Minot Ave.
Chula Vista CA 91910
Phone: (619) 422-0385
Miniature roses.
------
Trophy Roses, LTD
1308 N. Kennicott Ave.
Arlington Heights, IL 60004
Orders/Catalogs: (708) 253-0998
Fax: (708) 253-0738
Roses.
------
Van Dyek's Flower Farm
PO Box 430
Brightwaters, NY 11718-0430
Bulbs.
Thanks to Howard Fujimoto (hmf00@eng.amdahl.com) for this listing.
------
Van Ness Water Gardens
2460 North Euclid
Upland, CA 91786-1199
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Waterford Gardens
74 East Allendale Road
Saddle River, NJ 07458
Water garden supplies and plants.
Thanks to Bill Stoffel (stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil) for this entry.
------
Wayside Gardens
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
Phone: 1-800-845-1124
Thanks to jacobson@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu for this listing.
------
White Flower Farm
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
Orders: (203) 496-9600
White Flower Farm sells just about every kind of ornamental plant that one
might reasonably want to grow in North America.
OPINION: I will state my bias right up front: White Flower Farm is far and
away my favorite catalog. They have a reputation for being "upscale,"
but their prices are only slightly above average. Their catalog offers
a wealth of useful horticultural information, along with interesting
commentary about each and every plant. All the information you need to know
(hardiness, planting requirements, light requirements, etc.) is compiled
in a single useful index, as well as being stated with the description of
each plant. The catalog is organized alphabetically by genus name, so
in addition to being fun to read (and look at the pictures), it makes a
very useful reference. Of course, the catalog is only secondary to the
merchandise. Fortunately, their produce more than lives up to the high
standards set by the catalog: it is absolutely first rate. When I was buying
daylillies, crocuses, and daffodils from White Flower Farm and other
catalogs, the bulbs or roots from White Flower were often more than twice
the size of the ones from other vendors, and at a comparable price.
Even if you never buy anything from White Flower Farm, you should get their
catalog as a reference, since it is almost as good as buying a book on
ornamental plants, but a whole lot cheaper.
Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) disagrees with some of my tone:
Not really a flame, but please! I have a few of White Flower Farm's
catalogues, and I do value them for their reference quality and nice
photographs. But their plants and garden information is distinctively East
Coast in character. I would very much enjoy growing a number of plants they
list, but no longer attempt such folly as they are definitely inappropriate
for my arid western climate (as would many of the plants I cherish in my
garden be inappropriate for yours).
Please, let us not forget those 'less fortunate' souls who garden elsewhere!
North America is a big place, and I do not expect my garden to look like
your any more that I expect your to look like mine.
This reminds me of the search for a "North American gardening style". I can
think of nothing more ridiculous to search for - as if it could ever be
defined for a continent like ours - or that you'd want to try! This has
always been a way to 'one up' the 'English style'. Well, England is a
relatively small place, and even then it contains diversity more than we
imagine.
[I must plead guilty here. Perhaps I should have said that they sell "just
about any ornamental plant one might reasonably want to grow East of the
Rockies...."]
------
Gilbert H Wild and Son, Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Sarcoxie, Mo. 64862-0338
Phone: (417) 548-3514
Thanks to Joanne Kube-Harderwijk (joannek@empros.com) for this address.
Harry Boswell (u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil) reports:
....an excellent mail-order nursery
specializing in daylilies and peonies (I've ordered from them
several times, with very good results)....
Great catalog, with lots of color photos, good discount section in the
back.
------
Wildseed Farms, Inc.
1101 Campo Rosa Rd, PO Box 308
Eagle Lake, TX 77434
Phone: 1-800-848-0078
Fax: (409) 234-7407
Wildflower seeds, including some hard-to-find ones.
Thanks to Chad Segura (segura@owlnet.rice.edu) for this entry.
-----
Woodlanders, Inc.
1128 Colleton Ave.
Aiken, SC 29801
Fax/Phone: (803) 648-7522
Plants, with an emphasis on native plants, and a few books.
Thanks to Anne Wolf (WOLFFMAD@ACM.ORG), who reports that this is an excellent
catalog.
-----
VII. But Before We Go....
I hope this FAQ has been useful. I also hope it has been accurate. If you
find any mistakes, or have any comments, please send me E-mail at the
address listed at the top of the file. Any suggestions for improving
future editions will be happily accepted, and possibly even acted upon.
This FAQ is also available via the World Wide Web. The URL is:
http://jean-luc.ncsa.uiuc.edu/People/PeterL/PBM-FAQ.html
I will try to get the new edition up as soon as I can. If it isn't
updated within a few days, send me mail and I'll get to it.
There is also a WWW page which allows you to send me comments without having
to know my E-Mail address or anything. You can reach this page at the same
URL as the FAQ itself.
--
Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu
I'm Not A Physicist, But I Play One On The Net
http://jean-luc.ncsa.uiuc.edu/People/PeterL/HOME.html
From p-leppi@uiuc.edu Sat Jan 28 23:45:23 EST 1995
Article: 51970 of rec.gardens
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From: p-leppi@uiuc.edu (Peter Leppik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.gardens.roses,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Plants By Mail FAQ
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Summary: This FAQ contains information about buying plants and garden
supplies through the mail. It includes suggestions, information
about what to expect, and a lengthy list of mail-order companies.
Opionions about some companies (derived from experiences with those
companies) are included.
Originator: leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:51970 rec.gardens.roses:3109 rec.answers:9482 news.answers:35069
Archive-name: plants-by-mail
Posting-Frequency: bimonthly (sporadic)
Plants By Mail FAQ
by Peter Leppik
p-leppi@uiuc.edu
This document is intended to introduce readers to the world of buying
plants by mail order; and also to serve as a central clearinghouse for
information about contacting various mail order plant houses. I make
no claims about being more informed on this topic than your average
Joe, but I saw the need, and I'm willing to put forth the effort to
compile and maintain this.
History:
Updated: 1/22/95
Major revisions. Most of the section on mail-order companies has
been moved out of the FAQ. It is now available via the World Wide
Web . For those without
access to WWW (i.e. Mosaic, Netscape, lynx), I will E-mail copies of
this section upon request. Please don't request unless you really
don't have WWW access, though, since I don't want to be flooded.
Updated: 7/12/94
Updated: 4/30/94
Originally Created: 3/17/94 (late at night)
Contents:
I. Introduction
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
V. Which Catalog To Order From
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
VII. But Before We Go....
I. Introduction
It seems that one of the most common article titles in rec.gardens is,
"How can I reach XYZZY?" or, "The Plugh company sent me a catalog. Are
they any good?" I hope to be able to answer some of these questions in
a reasonably definitive manner (the first is easy, the second harder),
and provide the neophyte with some introduction to buying plants by mail.
My experience in this area has been short, but intense. After finally
moving from a small condo into a real house (with a YARD and a GARDEN
even!) in 1993, one of my first projects was to begin widespread
replanting of the yard (which is mostly boring grass, or very ugly
hybrid poplars). To do that, I began ordering large numbers of bulbs
and plants from a number of mail-order houses. Some were good, some
were bad, and I learned a lot about what to look for and what to avoid.
I welcome any and all comments. Send them to my E-mail address above.
If there is some catalog not covered here which you think should be, by
all means let me know. If you do send me comments, PLEASE please respect
my poor, overworked mailer. I've had people resend me the entire FAQ just
for a few lines of comments, and I even had one person send me a bunch of
UUencoded binary pictures! Needless to say, this doesn't help me much, and
it wastes my disk space. That said....do send comments, because
they do help!
At the end of this document, there is a URL address where you can find an
HTML version of this FAQ. If you don't know what HTML is, don't sweat it.
If you do, then you can get this FAQ there.
I assume that, if you send me comments, you don't mind if they find their
way into a future edition. I'll try to verify this, but sometimes I forget. Thus, if you DON'T want you name in a future edition of the FAQ, be sure
to say so.
Finally, I used to include an extensive list of mail-order companies in
this FAQ, along with my comments (and comments of others). Unfortunately,
it got to the point where the list was considerably larger than the rest of
the FAQ. Instead of splitting the FAQ into several parts (which I
considered doing), I decided to move the list of mail-order houses onto
the World Wide Web. There are several reasons why I did this. First, I
didn't want to contribute to the already overwhelming volume on rec.gardens.
Second, the WWW is a much better tool for presenting this information, and
more and more people have access to it these days, thanks to the popularity
of Mosaic and Netscape. Finally, it is much easier for me to maintain the
FAQ on the Web than in the text version, and even easier to have to do
only one of the two. This means that the FAQ will probably get updated
and posted more often, rather than going for months between updates.
There is still the problem, though, of people who don't have WWW access.
If you don't have WWW access, and you want the list of companies, send me
E-mail, and I'll send you the list. Beware, though, the list is long,
and it may look strange (with all kinds of HTML formatting characters).
II. But First, A Word From Our Lawyers
All opinions in this document are the opinions of the author, unless
otherwise noted. The author is well-known for his arbitrary and
capricious judgments, and cannot be held liable for anything he says
herein. Besides, the author is a poor grad student, and suing him is
like trying to squeeze blood from a rock.
III. How To Tell a Good Company from a Bad One
(or: Things To Look For Before Taking the Plunge)
If you are like me, you probably have a dozen or two catalogs from various
places, some fancy, others plain, and you're wondering who to order from
and how to tell the difference between a place that really cares, and a place
that is just trying to unload some poor, pathetic bits of green stuff on
The Gullible Majority. In this section, I will outline what I think a
good mail order company should do, and what you should consider before
buying a plant sight-unseen. Keep in mind that this is aimed at the
relative neophyte, who needs a little more service than the extremely
experienced gardener....there are plenty of companies which provide good
plants, but don't offer the level of service than many gardeners need.
What a Good Mail-Order Company Will Do
1) Every perennial in the catalog should have a clearly indicated hardiness
range. That is, for every perennial (anything you expect to last more than
one year) should have indicated which USDA hardiness zones it will survive in.
Simple adjectives like "hardy," or "tender," are NOT sufficient. Perhaps I am
biased, being a Minnesota native currently living in Illinois, but I have seen
too many catalogs which do not include this crucial information. Without
knowing this, it is too easy to buy plants that won't survive in your climate.
This also includes those of you who live in places like Southern California,
where it never gets cold, since some plants require a period of cold
temperatures every year in order to survive/bloom/etc.
2) Every plant should have its botanical (scientific) name listed. Of course,
this doesn't count for things like roses or tomatoes, which everybody knows
what that are. This may sound picky, but think about it: if you ever want
to get information on this plant from some other source, and they use their
own name, you might have a devil of a time figuring out how to get
information. A plant's botanical name is unique. I have seen places that
will take a standard variety of some plant, come up with a flashy
(trademarked) name, and sell it as something special. Needless to say,
this is dishonest.
3) Information on the habitat requirements should be easy to find. By this,
I mean answers to questions like, how much sun does it need, how much water,
and so forth. Nearly every catalog has this, but if you see one that
doesn't, stay away.
4) A good company will be able to answer questions about their products.
Really, this is basic. If you call them, and ask about something, they
should be able to answer your question. If they can only take orders,
this is a Bad Sign. (By the way, in many places, you can call your local
County Extension office to get information about plants, too.)
Finally, something that you should probably ignore:
5) Every mail order catalog that I've seen offers some sort of guarantee.
This should NOT be a factor in deciding where to buy from. After all, what
good does it do if they replace a plant that died because you can't grow
oranges in Alaska? The replacement will just die, too, and you'll spend
twice as much time on a plant that was Never Meant To Be. Some people
have even noted an inverse relation between the quality of the guarantee
and the quality of the plants: the louder the company proclaims its
"FOOLPROOF 100% MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE," the worse the plants are when
they arrive.
What To Consider Before Taking the Plunge
Okay, so you've got your heart set on the beautiful Creeping Green Stuff.
Before plunking your money and time on it (usually more time than money),
you should stop and ask yourself a few questions:
1) Will it grow in my area? If they don't make it CLEAR (i.e. by telling
you the hardiness zone), then avoid that plant, or buy it from somebody who
will tell you.
2) Do I have a place to put it? It is very easy to get spring fever when
all the catalogs start arriving midwinter, and wind up buying enough
plants to cover every square inch of your yard two or three times over.
Make sure you have a specific place for each and every plant you order, and
make sure you will have the time to plant it when it arrives. Keep in
mind that you will probably have to plant them soon after they arrive,
and you might not be able to control the exact day they arrive. Thus,
ordering 150 bushes for a new hedge from one place, all of which will
arrive via UPS on the same day and need to be planted immediately, is
probably not a good idea. Believe me. I've done it.
3) Will it really look the way I want it to? Keep in mind that the
pictures in the catalogs are designed to sell plants, and the plants in
your garden will generally not look quite as nice. I have seen a lot of
comments from people in rec.gardens about the rose Blue Girl as a particular
offender in this respect. Also keep in mind that illustrations (and
photographs) can be very deceptive.
IV. What To Do When Your Order Arrives
(or: OhMyGawd! There's No DIRT With These Plants!)
The most important thing to do when your order arrives is DON'T PANIC!
Good. Take a few deep breaths.
The reason your roses/trees/whatever arrived without any dirt is not because
the company sent you dead plants. Shipping woody plants without dirt
("bare-root") is standard. First, it does not harm the plants
much, as long as the company has taken steps to ensure that the roots don't
dry out. Usually, this involves dipping the roots in some sort of stuff
that helps retain moisture. Second, shipping plants bare-root helps keep
shipping costs down. Shipping with dirt could easily double or triple the
weight of the plant when shipped, and make it that much more expensive to
buy. Finally, shipping plants bare-root helps prevent the spread of pests
that live in the soil (like the Japanese beetle). Needless to say,
unless you're buying small seedlings, it would be expensive for a company to
grow all their stock in greenhouses.
There are a few places which ship plants in pots. Shipping a plant with the
dirt will be less traumatic to the plants, and, as a rule, you can expect
these plants to be healthier, but, because of shipping expenses, they will
often also be much smaller than bare-root plants--and more expensive. Given
the option, I will usually buy the plant shipped in a pot, since the quality
is often much higher. In addition, there are some plants which have to be
shipped in pots, simply because they're too fragile otherwise.
Generally, you will get a little booklet with your order explaining how
to plant your new plants. Usually, the first thing to do (with bare root
plants) is to stick them in a bucket of water for some time. You should do
this as soon as they arrive. Then, dig a hole according to the booklet
instructions, and plant those buggers.
It may take some time for your new plants to leaf out, especially if they're
dormant when shipped. Again, don't panic. If you planted in the spring,
don't call the company to complain that the plants are dead until midsummer.
They'll just tell you to wait, because sometimes the plants take a while to
adjust to their new surroundings.
V. Which Catalog To Order From
If you are buying roses, you should certainly order from a catalog which
specializes in roses. There are quite a few of these catalogs, and you will
generally get better selection, quality, and price than you would from buying
>from a catalog which doesn't specialize in roses.
For some reason, this rule of thumb seems to be the other way around when
buying bulbs. I have had the best experiences buying bulbs from White Flower
Farms, which is generally an outstanding catalog, but they aren't even
remotely limited to bulbs. My worst experiences, on the other hand, were
with places that sell only, or mainly bulbs. Go figure.
Not everybody will agree with my judgments. After much consideration (and
several long discussions on the order of "Company X isn't really THAT bad!"),
I've decided that the main consideration has to be consistency. That means
that I can count on large plants, of a uniformly high quality, every time I
order. Note, too, that I haven't yet had anyone take issue with my list of
"Good" companies, just the "Bad" ones. Having said that, here is my list of
best and worst companies, based primarily on my personal experiences:
Really Good Companies:
White Flower Farms
Nor'East Miniature Roses
Heirloom Old Garden Roses (but see below)
Gardener's Supply Company
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
Companies To Avoid:
Spring Hill
Michigan Bulb Co.
Breck's Bulbs
VI. Mail Order Houses, How to Contact Them, and My Opinions Thereof
There are literally hundreds--if not thousands--of mail-order plant
companies. I used to include a list of companies here, but it has
become unmanagable. So, to make the list easier to deal with, I've
moved it out of the FAQ, and onto the World Wide Web. If you have
access to Mosaic, Netscape, Lynx, or any of the other Web browsers,
my list of mail order companies, how to contact them, and comments
that I (and others) have is available at:
http://seidel.ncsa.uiuc.edu/PBM-FAQ/
If you DON'T have access to the Web, I'll be happy to send you the list
(and the comments, etc.) via E-mail. Just beware: the whole thing is
quite long. If you just want information on a particular company or three,
you might want to ask about those specifically. My E-mail address is
p-leppi@uiuc.edu.
If you have had experience with any mail-order company, good or bad, I
want to hear about it! Your experiences will help other gardeners.
Please, send any comments you have to me, at the above E-mail address.
I'll include them in the on-line database, unless you don't want me to.
Finally, I know of only one company with an E-mail address. If you know
of others, please let me know. It would be really nice to have a list
of places to buy plants via E-mail (or get information, for that matter).
Here are the entries from the on-line database on those companies listed
above as my best and worst. For each company, I will list their name,
mailing address, phone number, a general description of what they sell,
and my opinions. Opinions are strictly mine, unless otherwise noted.
I will not indicate an opinion unless I have actually ordered something
>from a company, unless the opinion is someone else's.
------
Breck's Bulbs
U.S. Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
Peoria, IL 61632
Orders: (309) 689-3870
Breck's sells bulbs imported from Holland: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, etc.
OPINION: Overall, I am not terribly impressed with Breck's. Their merchandise
(contrary to the catalog hype) is not particularly premium, but their prices
are higher than most places, even some places which have superior stock.
They do not list hardiness for anything, though most of what they sell should
do fine most places in the U.S. (they don't sell any of the really tender
bulbs, like glads). You can do better elsewhere.
Note that Breck's Bulbs appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Spring Hill, another company on my "Avoid" list.
------
Gardener's Supply Co.
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington, VT 05401
Orders/Customer Service: (802) 863-1700
TDD: (802) 660-3530
Fax: (802) 660-4600
All kinds of gardening supplies, and a few plants.
OPINION: I have had good experiences with this company. Their products
appear to be of a uniformly high quality, and a lot of people in rec.gardens
swear by them. At least one of their employees reads this newsgroup, so
you may be able to get answers "from the horse's mouth," if you know who
to ask. If anybody can supply me with his E-mail address, I would appreciate
it (for future editions).
------
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 NE Riverside Dr.
St. Paul, OR 91737
Orders: (503) 538-1576
This is a catalog of "old" roses: not a hybrid tea to be found. If you're
looking for english or unusual roses, this is the place to go.
OPINION: If you are a rose grower, and you are still growing hybrid teas,
this catalog will convert you. Many of the old roses offered here are just
as good, if not better than, the more common modern roses. The catalog offers
a lot of information about a zillion different roses, including hardiness,
and (my favorite) lists of roses well-suited for particular uses (i.e.
roses for growing over trellises, roses for scent, etc.). Their stock is
first-rate, and all grown on its own roots, so there are no bud unions to
worry about. There is no separate phone number for questions, but I found
the people answering the phone to be knowledgeable and helpful. Two thumbs
up. Note that they charge $5 for the catalog, but once you're on their
mailing list (i.e. after you buy something), they'll send it free.
Kristin Bruneau reports a different story:
About a month or so ago on rec.gardens.rose people started to discuss
their experiences with the company. Over all it was very negative.
Some of the major complaints were that the plants were too young (9
months or less), you never knew when they would get around to
shipping your plant (some waited over a year), and the owners were
very nasty when you had a problem (and basically said that's too
bad). The only reason I am passing this along is that the responses
were consistently bad and many people's stories were extreme (no
roots on the rose, horribly nasty experiences with the staff).
I too had a bad experience with them. I ordered from them last year
for the first time. Even though the rose was in stock when I called
in May, I had still not received it in July. I had to call up and
raise a fuss before they finally agreed to send it out. Gosh only
knows when I would have received it if I left it up to them. When it
arrived it only had two canes, one completely stripped off and
dangling from the plant. It only had two leaves on it and came with
the worlds biggest slug that was the size of a nickle and covered in
yellow fringe (Yuck!). I called them to complain and their response
was basically "Oh". They only guarantee for the plants to arrive in
good condition so I called. I did not want it replaced at that time
because it would be too late in the season to plant another one (if
they finally got around to sending it to me). I told them that I
expected them to replace it if it died. They finally agreed. Well,
at first it dropped the only two leaves that it had and I thought it
would die. After a while it did come back though. It is doing ok,
not great. The rose was Rosa Rugosa, basically a weed. Maybe that
explains why I was so lucky it made it.
Anyway, since Heirloom Old Garden Roses was on the highly recommended
list I thought I'd pass these experiences along. I know that
different people have different experiences and that we must weigh
that in our minds when we order. Just my 2 cents worth.
[I don't know if this is due to temporary management problems, or something
deeper. I'm going to keep this company on my "good guys" list for the time
being, because of my good experiences, but I would appreciate any comments.]
------
Michigan Bulb Co.
1950 Waldorf NW
Grad Rapids, MI 49550-0500
Michigan Bulb Company sells bulbs, perennials, and other assorted plants.
OPINION: This catalog is filled with the kind of BREATHLESS PROSE and
AMAZING BARGAINS designed to stampede the gardener into making impulse
purchases. Their prices are cheap, but selection is limited, and quality
was very mediocre. In addition, I was unable to find a phone number anywhere
in the catalog--this could be a real problem, if you have problems with your
order. To their credit, they generally include hardiness information.
On the other hand, they also sell the "Blue Girl" rose, which is an automatic
two demerits in my book. Go elsewhere.
jsr@geneab.b23a.ingr.com (Jeff Reifsteck) reports:
I've had nothing but bad news from Michigan Bulb. The plants were poor and
didn't survive. They did replace them without question but my 40 creeping
myrtle (6" evergreen ground cover) became 40 crape myrtle (a big bush and
a lot more expensive). I needed ground cover not bushes. Except for the
replacement of a "Blue Girl" rose all the other replacements were not plantable.
apilote@wtcd.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Angela Pilote) reports:
Last year I ordered some things from them -- NEVER AGAIN!
I even told my husband to remind me of the poor quality
of there plants and bulbs if he even SEES me *looking* at one
of their catalogs.
None of the plants survived and only about half (maybe less)
of the bulbs came up. The bulbs also seemed very small
and I think I read somewhere that this is a sign that the
bulbs have not matured enough to bloom.
The prices seem to be good, but if you factor in the survival
rate and time invested -- it's not a deal. I'm better off paying
premium prices at my nursery for good quality plants and bulbs.
Evelyn Walker reports:
I have ordered perinnals from Michigan Bulb company, the first year
the blooms are not so big, but usually the second year it is bigger,
If you plant them in a fertilized area the plants do a lot better.
I have shasta daisies, carnations, guardinalla or whatever. I was
really pleased with it. I plan on getting a few more for some bare spots
in my yard
------
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 307
Rowley, MA 01969
Phone: (508) 948-7964
Orders: 1-800-426-6485
On the West Coast:
Nor'East Miniature Roses, Inc.
P.O. Box 473
Ontario, CA 91762
Phone: (909) 984-2223
Orders: 1-800-662-9669
A large selection of miniature roses, and some supplies for those who like
to grow them (like miniature vases)
OPINION: This company is also on my "Good-Guys" list. Their prices are
quite reasonable, and their stock is high quality. Their catalog has a photo
of many of the offerings. If you are into miniature roses (or would like to
be), this is the catalog to get.
lori@phantom.com reports:
cheap cute lil'roses.
------
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
Orders: East (203) 482-3638
West (408) 335-6910
Customer Service: (203) 482-3638
Horticultural Help: (408) 335-6910
Shepherd's sells mostly seeds, but also a few plants, and some kitchen and
garden supplies.
OPINION: The stylish illustrations in this catalog give it a distinctly
yuppie feel, but this is a good catalog nevertheless. They have a number
of varieties that are hard to find elsewhere (a whole PAGE of ornamental
sunflowers!), and a wealth of useful horticultural information. My order
arrived promptly, in good order, and appears to be high quality (it is still
a little soon for things to be sprouting around here, though). Prices are
a little above average, but seeds are cheap no matter how you slice it.
------
Spring Hill
Mail Order Reservation Center
6523 North Galena Rd.
P.O. Box 1758
Peoria, IL 61656-1758
Orders: (309) 689-3800
Customer Service: (309) 689-3849
Spring Hill sells just about any kind of plant that catches their fancy.
OPINION: Spring Hill is one of these places that is in the business of
dumping cheap, inappropriate merchandise on unsuspecting customers. The
quality of their merchandise is mediocre, even though the prices are about
average. The provide little or no hardiness information, which is especially
troublesome considering that they sell some plants (like carnations) for
outdoor planting, even though they will not survive the winter in large
portions of the U.S. Furthermore, if you ever buy anything from Spring Hill,
you will be on their mailing list but good. I have received no less than
four different catalogs from them in the last two months (not even counting
the large number of "special offers" which seem to arrive about once a week,
and at least one telemarketing call). Avoid this company like the plague.
Note that Spring Hill appears to be the same company, or closely associated
with, Breck's Bulbs, another company on my "Avoid" list.
Al Harrington [alh@hprnd.rose.hp.com] says:
I think you are being way to hard on Spring Hill. I realize that
they do not supply hardiness information, and that some of their
plants are not in the best shape - their customer service is very
good. I purchased the carnation collection (15 plants) and 2 of
them died. I got credited for all 15 as it was a collection.
I ordered a lot of stuff from them (over 100 plants) and just about
all are doing just fine - what isn't I get credit for.
If nothing else seeing color pictures of *everything* they sell is
nice. :-)
------
White Flower Farm
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
Orders: (203) 496-9600
White Flower Farm sells just about every kind of ornamental plant that one
might reasonably want to grow in North America.
OPINION: I will state my bias right up front: White Flower Farm is far and
away my favorite catalog. They have a reputation for being "upscale,"
but their prices are only slightly above average. Their catalog offers
a wealth of useful horticultural information, along with interesting
commentary about each and every plant. All the information you need to know
(hardiness, planting requirements, light requirements, etc.) is compiled
in a single useful index, as well as being stated with the description of
each plant. The catalog is organized alphabetically by genus name, so
in addition to being fun to read (and look at the pictures), it makes a
very useful reference. Of course, the catalog is only secondary to the
merchandise. Fortunately, their produce more than lives up to the high
standards set by the catalog: it is absolutely first rate. When I was buying
daylillies, crocuses, and daffodils from White Flower Farm and other
catalogs, the bulbs or roots from White Flower were often more than twice
the size of the ones from other vendors, and at a comparable price.
Even if you never buy anything from White Flower Farm, you should get their
catalog as a reference, since it is almost as good as buying a book on
ornamental plants, but a whole lot cheaper.
Sean A. O'Hara (saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet) disagrees with some of my tone:
Not really a flame, but please! I have a few of White Flower Farm's
catalogues, and I do value them for their reference quality and nice
photographs. But their plants and garden information is distinctively East
Coast in character. I would very much enjoy growing a number of plants they
list, but no longer attempt such folly as they are definitely inappropriate
for my arid western climate (as would many of the plants I cherish in my
garden be inappropriate for yours).
Please, let us not forget those 'less fortunate' souls who garden elsewhere!
North America is a big place, and I do not expect my garden to look like
your any more that I expect your to look like mine.
This reminds me of the search for a "North American gardening style". I can
think of nothing more ridiculous to search for - as if it could ever be
defined for a continent like ours - or that you'd want to try! This has
always been a way to 'one up' the 'English style'. Well, England is a
relatively small place, and even then it contains diversity more than we
imagine.
[I must plead guilty here. Perhaps I should have said that they sell "just
about any ornamental plant one might reasonably want to grow East of the
Rockies...."]
lori@phantom.com reports:
I ordered fuscia (vodoo and swarthy gem) which aren't
doing so well. Tristar Strawberry plants satisfactory. Begonia tubers
mediocre. I also liked the catalog ;-)
-----
VII. But Before We Go....
I hope this FAQ has been useful. I also hope it has been accurate. If you
find any mistakes, or have any comments, please send me E-mail at the
address listed at the top of the file. Any suggestions for improving
future editions will be happily accepted, and possibly even acted upon.
This FAQ is also available via the World Wide Web. The URL is:
http://seidel.ncsa.uiuc.edu/PBM-FAQ/
The WWW version includes everything in this file, plus an extensive (and
growing!) list of mail-order companies. I also include comments on a
number of the companies, to help choose which are good, and which are
not worth it.
(NOTE TO EVERYONE WHO HAS READ THIS BEFORE! THE URL HAS CHANGED!)
--
Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu
Lost in the Information Supercollider
http://jean-luc.ncsa.uiuc.edu/People/PeterL/HOME.html
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 1994 17:12:38 -0500
From: Murray Ryan Pickard
Subject: Pond FAQ.
Well, this is the initial (pre-alpha) release of the pond FAQ. I hope
to clean this up quite a bit in the future, as well as provide much better /
more accurate information as people point out the errors in this one.
Currently it is roughly arranged in the format of:
Liners for ponds
Flexible liners
How to do the sides to minimize liner show at surface
Rigid liners
Some general suggestions to ponder prior the construction of a pond
Filters/Pumps/Waterfalls ....This section is really wimpy, and am looking
forward to more input to build up this section with.
Plants
Fish
Book recommendations
Societies/BBS's
Mail Order sources
**NOTE I have not verified any of these. Proceed with caution when
dealing with mail order. If any of this info is INcorrect, PLEASE notify
me with the correct info.
Contributors to this initial release.
* These are people that had posted info or questions to the net regarding
ponds and/or watergardens. It's their info that helped to make up this FAQ,
and those that contributed significant sections, are identified with that
section. AGAIN, This stuff had been pulled off the net over the past
year or so by a couple of people, and emailed to me.
I MAKE NO CLAIMS THAT THE FOLLOWING IS CORRECT IN ALL INSTANCES, NOR THAT ANY
OF IT IS MY OWN WORK (of which some of it is) BUT RATHER THAT THIS IS PUBLIC
PROPERTY OF THE NET, AND I ONLY MAINTAIN IT FOR CORRECTNESS, EASE OF USE
(in the future), AND HOPEFULLY CORRECT AND ACURATE IDENTIFICATION OF THOSE THAT
HAVE CONTRIBUTED TOWARDS ITS EXISTANCE. ANY AND ALL STANDARD (and if necessary,
unstandard) DISCLAIMERS APPLY.
Please send any corrections/additions/requests to:
Murray Pickard aka photo@ksu.ksu.edu
ENJOY!
-
POND FAQ
-
Pond Construction: Broken down into flexible liners, rigid liners, and
pre-formed, followed by some general contruction recommendations for whatever
you should choose to go with.
A. Flexible liners: There are three type of flexible liners available to the
pond builder, these are:
1. PVC: (poly vinly choride) a relatively cheap liner, however,
must be protected from UV exposure from the sun.
2. EPDM: (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) This is used alot of
times for roofing, comes in various thicknesses. General opinion is
45 mil is fine for pond use. Some sources claim that you need to
get the "fish grade". According to Jack H from the Garden Pond BBS,
he's checked with the manufacturer and the word is that they sell
exactly the same product as "fish-grade" and for roofing.
3. Butyl: For the most part, is considered a more expensive version
of EPDM, supposedly differs in chemical composition.
EPDM (and Butyl) are available from roofing people (check your yellow pages).
The two leaders in the field are Firestone (trade name "Rubbergard") and
Carlisle (trade name "Sure-Seal").
zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey)
it's time again for the annual posting of how to finish off the
edges of a garden pond. I hope this helps.
Pond Liners and the Sun
-----------------------
There are a number of reasons to keep the sun from shining on your pond liner.
First off, liners are not particularly pretty, and secondly the sun can/will
decay the liner over time. You have essentially two tools with which to
hide the liner -- earth/stones and water.
The first issue in hiding your liner is to create a level pond. Let's say that
your pond is 10 feet long, and you have one end only a few inches lower than
the other. If you were to use this without better leveling, then after filling
you would have a minimum of 4 inches showing at the one end -- and since many
pool owners keep the level down an inch or two, you have *half a foot* of
liner showing -- not good. So the more level your pond is the better -- beg,
borrow or buy a 4 foot contractors level, or strap a two foot level to a
piece of straight, stiff wood and use that.
The other issue in hiding your liner is how you finish the edges of the pond.
Traditionally, ponds are finished as follows: the liner comes up out of the
water, over the edge and flatish rocks are lain on top of the liner to hide
the liner. The rocks overhang the edge to even better hide the liner,
but this has never really hidden it to my eyes. (see figure 1)
figure 1. traditional edge finishing
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX <--- cap stone
ground level ===========--------+ <--- gap showing liner
|~~~~~~~ <--- water level
\
\ <----- liner
Two better approaches have been discovered by me spring 1993 in the catalogues
of Lee Valley Tools (Queensview Drive, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) If they sourced
these ideas from elsewhere, I've never seen them and they did not credit them.
Approach one is how I did my pond. When you bring up the liner, tuck it
under a course or two of bricks, and then back over the bricks. Finish with
capstones. The two courses of bricks stay submerged in the water, and
liner, being beneath and behind them is completely hidden from sight/sun.
In my pond, the water must drop a good 6 inches before *starting* to show
liner. see figure 2.
figure 2. submerged bricks to hold liner
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX <--- cap stone
ground level ===========+-----
| BBBB~~~~~~~ <--- water level
| BBBB <--- bricks in courses (rows)
+-------+
|
\
\ <----- liner
Approach two is how I might well do the next pond, but it requires a extra
one to two feet of surface area. The Idea is to create a natural setting
with pea gravel/sand and a bog around the edges. Somehow I suspect that
the raccoons might find this very easy to disturb, but one never knows.
Incorporate a two foot wide, 6 inch deep all around the pond, in addition to
any shelves you already have for shallow water plants. Bring the liner up
and along this shelf and about 5 inches up the edge. Along the inside edge of
this shelf, put in a course (row) or two of bricks -- these will hold the
gravel in place. back fill the shelf with gravel/sand to fill in the shelf.
Fill the pool until half of the gravel is submerged, giving a beach-like
edge to the pond. shallow water plants can be planted in the gravel/sand,
with or without pots. (figure three for those keeping count)
figure 3. more natural finish
ground level =======oooooo
\ oooooo <--- gravel
\ooooooooo~~~~~~ <--- water level
\ooooooooo
\ ooooooooBBBB
\ooooooooBBBB <--- bricks holding gravel
+-----------+
|
\
\ <--- liner
In both of these alternative, the liner is only visible through the water
itself, still not the best in my opinion, but still a lot better than the
gap of exposed liner around the edge of the pond.
enjoy. --Lance R. Bailey
B. Rigid liners:
1. Concrete:
[Under construction....ie,I need your info/knowledge/recommendations]
2. Preformed plastic pools:
These are usually some kind of molded sturdy plastic tub. There are
some that are free standing, just set on your deck/patio and add water,
fish, plants, fountain, etc. The others need to be set in the ground
in the same fashion as the flexible liners, then filled. (the free
standing can also be set in the ground if desired)
3. Wiskey barrel halves:
These are relatively inexpensive, some may not need a liner, and will
hold a dwarf water lily, some bog plants and a couple of fish. Just
plant the plants in the bottom of the barrel (about 1/4 to 1/2 filled
with dirt, and some sand/gravel on top of soil) These make a nice
addition on the corner of a patio, some people have set them up so one
makes a fountain into another with a small recirculating pump, or using
two of them as supports for either end of a bench.
The following are general comments, recommendations, etc from various
contributors of their own experiences. Edited for space conservation,
hopefully the content of their recommendations remains unchanged.
As to liability and ponds, you will have to check your local by-laws as to how
deep you can build it without having to surround it with fences and self-locking
gates. In rural areas around here (Ottawa, Canada), you can even have an
un-fenced swimming pool. In the city, thou shalt surround thy pool with a
particular kind of fencing & submit plans & get permits, etc, if thy pool is
more than 24" (61cm) deep. I have a theory that you could by-pass the by-law by
putting a horizontal fence (strong, rust-free, wire mesh) in the pool at the 24"
level so that children who wander in would not be able to drown (the mesh would
have to be a tight enough weave to make solid footing for them) and plants would
be able to enjoy the deeper water and grow up through the mesh. This is only a
theory!! It's undoubtably better to refrain from digging more than 24".... but
then your pond will freeze in the winter & you'll have to rescue your fish and
any frogs who dropped by and your hardy water lilies...
LINERS- I've convince my pool man to give me a pool liner that he's
replacing with a new one. There's many who will tell you that a pool
liner will have absorbed the chemicals, but it can be cleaned. In
addition, others have talked about using one of the kiddy pools,
waterbed mattresses slit open, etc.
WATERFALLS--Lowe's has a pre-formed cascade that I intend to use instead of
building one by hand. It seems a lot easier as well as more sturdy, with less
chance of leaks."
>How deep should the pond be?
2-3' seem good enough. You want the pool to stay liquid in some parts
during the winter. I live in New Jersey and my pool is about 3' deep.
It does fine in the winter.
About three feet deep is alright. If you make it too deep you won't be able to
see your fish. Try to have multiple levels for various types of plants. Put a
lot of water plants in your pond to keep it from getting too hot. Plants add
oxygen to the water when it is sunny, when they aren't photosyntysizing, they
drain oxygen from the water. So a waterfall will help add oxygen to the water.
Depends on your climate. If your summers are very hot, a shallow pond will cook
your fish. If your winters are sufficiently cold, a shallow pond will freeze
solid.
>I want to build a big pond: what kind of problems may I run into?
Depends on how big. If your water table is very high you may need underdrains
on a liner pond to prevent wall collapse when empty. If your pond is going to
be very deep, you may need steel reinforcing in a concrete pond, and/or sloped
walls.
Holes are a pain to find; do everything possible to avoid them (sand (or pads of
damp newspaper) under the liner, maybe even a second liner). Make sure that
lawn runoff can't get into the pond; fertilizer or compost runoff makes it hard
to keep the pond balanced.
DO NOT SITUATE YOUR POND ANYWHERE NEAR TREES. If they are not evergreen, they
will fill your pond with leaves in the fall and if they are evergreen, they will
fill your pond with needles year round.
Also, if you want plants in your pond, you will want to put it in a place that
receives at least 6 hours of DIRECT sun a day. Many water plants need as much
sun as you can give them (especially water lilies) and will not do well if given
less. There are a few that will do well with less sun, but you should try to
make it as sunny as possible.
Think about what you will do when the pond needs water. Is there a hose that
can reach the spot? Could you channel the runoff from the roof of the house
into the pond?
It's not worth cutting corners on a pond liner. After you go to the trouble of
digging the hole why put in a substitute for a liner which will only last a
couple of years tops and will require you to drain the pond and upset fish,
plants and froggies in a year or two and do all that work over again? There is
nothing more upsetting than to walk out some morning to find your pond dry and
the fish flipping on the bottom. Cheap liner substitutes just will not hold up
to the sunlight and the freeze/thaw cycles of the winter.There are some
specialty fishpond suppliers which will sell you just the size piece you need
from a bulk roll and cheaper than buying one of the prepackaged kits.
(Lilypons?) An alternative which we have used for small ponds are fiberglass or
PVC stock watering tanks from a farm supply. You can get them from 40 to 500
gallons. Prices are usually around $45-$55 for a 100 gallon which is about 5ft
long, 2ft wide and 2 ft deep. They are usually HEAVY-duty, black, and will last
forever. You just dig a hole to drop it in or surround it with rocks to disguise
it.
> 2. Pumps/filters/plumbing. Recommedations on size pump vs size pond
Or whether you need one? We do just fine without, and I think that might also
be possible with real ponds, too, so long as there's a good mix of sun and
shade, flora and fauna, good luck and bad.
Little Giant makes a good line. Obviously, for 120V pumps, you need a GFCI on
the circuit. Check local codes for wiring, conduit, and burial depths. Size
depends on the usage (circulation, waterfall, stream, fountain?). No simple
answer. A nitrogen filter helps if you don't want to hassle with keeping a
balanced ecology. A balanced (fish/plants) ecosystem is better, IMHO.
>>I also have a UV sterilizer which ELIMINATES green water and
>>will also kill free swimming parasites if you have any. The pond
>>is three feet deep and I can see the bottom clearly.
I use an Aquanetics 15w inline quartz unit that I had previously used on a
fishtank. You need quartz because it allows the tube to maintain its desired
operating temperature with cold pond water. Its also safer, non-quartz units
have the water running on the bare bulb (!) with O-ring seals at the ends. I had
one of these break (all by itself) under a fishtank once. You could hook it
into your existing pump line. It sits outside the pond and is cylindrical 3"
diameter by about 18 inches long white PVC. Half or 3/4 inch (I forget) FPT
fittings.
>All my plants are doing well and my "test fish" (shubunkins) are breeding
>like crazy, but the water has stayed fairly green all summer.
UV will fix that green water. Also water changes will help. Since you already
have a big pump, just add a few fittings and water your garden with it. Also
regarding filtration, if your fish are breeding your water quality is probably
fine. You might get a test kit and see what the ammonia, pH, nitrite and
nitrate levels are.
>- Can one easily make a biological filter that is >readily cleanable?
I use sponge inserts for AquaClear model 2000 aquarium filters. They are about
$3 mail order, roughly 4x4x10 inches. I get a few feet one inch diameter black
poly hose from the hardware store, drill a few holes (well a few dozen) and
slide the sponges over the hose. First I cut a slot long ways through the
sponge with a long narrow bladed kitchen knife. I wire an aquarium power head
($10 mail order) to one end, cap the other end and presto. The sponge openings
are large enough to not catch lots of particulate matter so the thing runs for
many weeks before the flow gets to where I feel it needs cleaning. I put it on
the pond bottom and direct the flow up so I can see the faint disturbance and
know all is working. If you are really careful you can make two and clean
alternate ones every 4-8 weeks so you don't reduce the total bacteria population
too drasticly. I plan to put a seperate sump/filter (made from a buried plastic
trash can) near my pond out of site so all this hardware (sponges, UVs) can go
into it for easier cleaning.
>- How do you keep that stringy algae down to a managable quantity?
Probably my frequent water changes keep nitrates too low for this to be
a problem. I have some algae on the sides but its not invasive.
>- Is there any control for duckweed?
Hmmm. I regularly put duckweed from my fishtank into the pond and it is
eaten in a few days. Maybe you are overfeeding your fish?
> Do I need a filter to clean the water or will the fish/plants do the job?
Depends on the size of pond and the number, size, and kind of fish. For
example, if you put one 3-inch long goldfish in a 1000 gallon pond, you won't
need a filter. But if you put one foot-long carp in the same pond, you will.
If your fish load is not too excessive, the filter could be as simple as an
air-driven sponge filter (eg. tetra's pond filter).
Keep track of you ammonia and algea levels. If your ammonia level gets too
high, or you can't see your fish, you should consider building one. With
large ponds ammonia usually isn't a problem. (Unless you have too many fish-
be conservative.)
The filtration method I'm looking at right now is to combine a gravel base
with the main outflow drawn through it, like an under-gravel filter, with
an above-ground biological filter in a second large tank. I will probably
make that tank a reverse flow, with the water pumped into the support grid
at the bottom and percolating up through several layers of graded material.
The outflow at the top will return via a broad waterfall to the pond...
If you get the right balance of fish/plants/scavengers, they will sustain
themselves. However, since you want a waterfall, you might want to get a filter
to pump the water up to the top of the falls instead of a water pump.
Don't go nuts on the fish! Stock sparingly with goldfish or koi or
whatever. Goldfish are a bit more showy and hardy, but I prefer koi for their
majesty.
Also, koi are reputed to be 'trainable'. I've heard you can get them to 'puff'
a cigar, take food from your hand, etc. However, they do tend to root in plant
pots a bit.
The pump instructions and box will tell you (and so will the books) how big a
pump for how many gallons of water you intend to have in your pool. The books
will tell you how to figure the gallons.
>I'm not too sure about keeping a sterile environment. You will probably
>get mosquitoes if you don't have anything to eat the larvae. Also, any
>chemicals you use to keep the water clear (free from algae) will harm
>your higher plants when they get splashed.
Good point - Getting a couple of Mosquito Fish (A type of minnow) will
do a good job, and they'll remain unobtrusive.
A good cover of water plants (say, just over 1/2 of the posd surface) should
keep the pond pretty clear of algae. A few goldfish (or relatively hardy
tropical fish, like paradise fish) will keep the pond clear of insects. It
hardly adds any work to the pond (removing dead leaves and fertilizing the
plants weekly is about it: the fish don't have to be fed once the pond is
established), and the results are much more stable than trying to maintain a
sterile environment.
>Do you have tropical lillies? Do you have to winter them over out of
>the pond where you live? If so, do you a favorite technique for doing
>this?
No lilies. Hyacinth plus pennywort and duckweed from my fish
tanks. I need to get more plants.
Plants: Not cheap around here. Papyrus around $6 to $15.
Elephant ears about the same. Lotus $15-$45.
I have a water iris that keeps coming back every
year, so that helps.
PLANTS
Aquarium shops will sell you the plants to use as oxygenating plants. If
you're lucky enough to have a Lowe's, I found water lilies there three weeks
ago for $9 each, compared to everyone else's price of $25 and up.
> 5. Plants (what are must have's and region, and care of)
I'm Sunset Zone 3, USDA Zone 6. Japanese Iris are hardy here, and do well
in the margins (or just potted anywhere in a shallow pot). Water lilies are
pretty, but don't overwinter. Water Lettuce does well, but bugs love it, and
it isn't real pretty. Also doesn't overwinter.
The one piece of real information in this message: Anachris will bloom in late
spring, with pretty little white flowers held above the water (in California,
aanyway) I have not seen this mentioned in any of the water pond books.
How do I plant my Oxygenating plants?
When you get your oxygenators, you should have 6 to 10 stems of the plant,
about 8 to 10 inches long. Plant about half of the stem in the dirt.
(w/ rubberband around base of bunch) You can plant 3 to 4 bunches in
a 6" pot, and will want 3 bunches per sq. yd. of surface area. The pots
can be set to a depth of about 2 ft, deeper once established.
> 3. Fish (carp, goldfish, fancy goldfish, koi, ???)
Unless you have a pretty big pond, assume that the fish'll get eaten.
I prefer just nice, cheap feeder goldfish.
Goldfish. Cheap goldfish.
I'm hoping to use just plain old goldfish as there are too many cats around my
neighborhood to risk the more expensive koi.
Literature (books and magazines):
Philip Swindells is the presiden of the International Water Lily Society
and you may want to look at his book "The Complete Book of Water Gardening"
Another good book is "The Stapeley book of Water Gardens".
Pondscapes Magazine
Magazine of the National Pond Society.
Pond Publishing Company
PO Box 449
Acworth, GA 30101
(404)975-0277
Ponds and Water Gardens 2nd ed. by Bill Heritage.
Blandford publishing. ISBN 0-7137-1861-7.
The Family Handyman, June 1990 Issue. couple of good articles on pond
construction. good idea on filter construction. question the potting method.
def. go with level "steps" inside the pond instead of sloping sides. Back
issues: $3.50 each, Handyman Back Issues Dept., PO Box 1917, Marion, OH, 43305.
Garden Pools and Fountains, Ortho books. ISBN 0-89721-149-9.
Ortho and Sunset both have reasonably good references, especially as pertaining
to plants.
_The Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi_ Tetra Press, c1989, ISBN 3-923880-98-7
Harrrowsmith Water Garden Book
James Allison's _Water_in_the_Garden_
Societies, clubs, BBS's:
The Garden Pond BBS is for pond construction, and aquatic
plant information. We have pond files and a pond message area. I
just returned from the NW International Water Lily Symposium in
Boise. Stop in sometime if you need more info. 1-503-735-3074.
Complete pond construction is beyond the scope of this message, but
I am happy to answer any questions I can.
Good luck!
Jack
National Pond Society
PO Box 449
Ackworth GA 30101
(800)742-4701
(annual membership includes 10 issues of Pondscapes magazine, a color
publication written by and for pond keepers)
Water Garden Society of Greater Kansas City
(no further info available at this time)
Mail Order sources for about everything pond / fish related
Dolphin Outdoors
Fiberglass Ponds for gardens and fish
Send SASE for brochure and prices
1808 W. Campbell Ave
Campbell, CA 95008
(408) 379-7600
Hermitage Garden Pools
Fiberglass garden pools, rock waterfalls, self-contained redwood
waterwheels; bubbling fantasias
Send $1.00 for color catalog
PO Box 361, Dept. A
Canastoga, NY 13032
(315) 697-9093
Lilypons Water Gardens
pond liners, accessories, plants (lilies, lotus, etc), fish, etc.
100-page Catalog subscription $5.00
3 locations:
Dept. 1626
PO Box 10
Buckeystown, MD 21717-0010
(800) 723-7667
Dept. 1626
PO Box 188
Brookshire, TX 77423-0188
(800)766-5648
Dept. 1626
PO Box 1130
Thermal, CA 92274-1130
(800) 685-7667 or (800)365-5459 (different ads had different Ph # here)
Paradise Water Gardens
(617) 447-4711 FAX: (617) 447-4591
Great books on water gardening (too numerous to list here); water lilies,
fountains, pumps, Koi, goldfish, aquatic plants, tub gardens.
Send $3.00 for a 60-page full-color catalog
56 May St. FN06
Whitman, MA 02382
Pets Unlimited
(813) 442-2197
Featuring TetraPond products
Send $3.00 for color brochure, price list, plus "Digest for a Successful
Pond"
1888 Drew
Clearwater, FL 34625
REAL GOODS
they've got pumps and solar panels
(800) 762 7325
FAX: (707) 468 0301
Resource Conservation Technology, Inc.
(301) 366-1146
Butyl Pond liners. 20-year warranty. Won't harm fish or plants, won't
stiffen in cold weather, resists sunlight better than plastics. Call or
write for literature and samples of the liner and Liner Protection Fabric.
2633 N. Calvert St.
Baltimore, MD 21218
Santa Barbara Water Gardens
Box 4353
Santa Barbara, CA 93140
Slocum Water Gardens
Water Lily Catalog: water lilies, lotus, fancy Goldfish
Complete info on tubs, concrete pools, and ponds
Send $3.00
Slocum Water Gardens, Dept. FI592
1101 Cypress Gardens Rd.
Winter Haven, FL 33880
TetraPond
32-mil, flexible PVC liners, 10-year guarantee; accessory products,
fish and plant foods, water treatments, etc.
Write for free "how-to" brochure
Tetra Sales (USA)
Department P-9208
201 Tabor Road,
Morris Plains, NJ 07950
That Fish Place
A large mail order outfit for aquarium people, however they do carry some of the
pumps for ponds.
(800) 733-3829
Van Ness Water Gardens
Water lilies, bog plants, info, pumps, filters, maintenance
(714) 982-2425 For 56-page color catalog, send $4.00
2460 N. Euclid , Dept. 877
Upland, CA 91786-1199
Waterford Gardens
(201) 327-0721
Water Lilies, bog plants, lotus, pools and accessories, ornamental fish
$5.00 for 1992 catalog
74 East Allendale Road, Dept F
Saddle River, NJ 07458
Waterland USA
Fountains for your home, patio, or garden
(800) 321-6178 Call for free brochure
27071 Cabot Rd., Suite 116
Laguna Hills, CA 92653
William Tricker, Inc.
(216) 524-3491
Rare and unusual varieties of water lilies, aquatic plants, fish, etc.
Send $3.00 for full-color catalog
7125 Tanglewood Drive
Independence, OH 44131
Favorite quote, overheard at the aquatic nursery:
Customer: I want to buy some Koi, and what do I have to do to make them breed?
Nurseryman: Well, it's pretty hard to stop them.
Contributors (whether they knew it or not!) I hope this is inclusive of
everyone whose messages had been sent to me by a couple of netters that had
collected large collections of postings, and whose information helped to form
this FAQ.
aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
adam@microware.com (Adam Goldberg)
ahill@hpbs972.boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
athdebn@scifac.indstate.edu (Debbie Nelson)
bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey)
cfb@fc.hp.com (Charlie Brett)
chendd@UG.EDS.COM (Diane DeMers Chen)
dbell@cup.portal.com (David J Bell)
enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
fog@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Fogelquist)
hanna@smsc.sony.com (Nancy Hannaford X-xxx)
Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Jack Honeycutt)
jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
jfhess@bullwinkle.ucdavis.edu (john hess)
jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop)
mcrafts@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (Mark Crafts)
mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Michael Burr)
onstotc@prism.cs.orst.edu (Curt Onstott)
peteo@sgi.com (Pete Orelup)
palepink@lily.arts.com
rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com (Rick Hoffman)
richb@kronos.com (Rich Braun)
sjane@BNR.CA (sjs)
sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller)
stevew@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Steve Weber)
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil
tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu (Tim Gornet)
vaughan@europa.eng.gtefsd.com (Kirby Vaughan)
xku@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey)
From troutman@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu Fri May 19 00:17:15 EDT 1995
Article: 70442 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!troutman
From: Leslie Troutman
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: **** Periodic posting of Keywords ****
Date: Thu, 18 May 1995 12:42:36 -0500
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 31
Message-ID:
NNTP-Posting-Host: ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Periodic posting of keywords. Revised 5/11/95
Please use the following keywords at the beginning of your subject line
when posting to rec.gardens (if you so desire! :).
CHAT for "how's your garden doing, what's happening in your
part of the world," and discussions like this.
EDIB for edible plants
GH for greenhouses and indoor gardening
HERB for herbs (ornamental & edible!)
LAWN for lawn and pasture questions
*MISC ACK! I can't figure out which keyword to use!
*NEWS for announcements
ORN for ornamentals
*ORG for organic issues (composting, etc.)
PEST for pest control, including weeds, bugs, and other pests
SEED for propagation techniques, including seeds
TOOL for equipment and techniques
TREE for arboriculture
ZONE for questions on zones and hardiness
(* New as of 5/11/95)
Use of these keywords will make reading this large (and wonderful) list a
bit easier.
Thanks!
Leslie Troutman
TROUTMAN@UIUC.EDU
Article 10669 (111 more) in rec.gardens:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Subject: Re: plant root hormones?
Date: 10 Sep 92 22:28:49 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
> ROOTONE is advertised as a plant root hormone that encourages cuttings
> to grow roots and become real plants. Has anybody out there ever used
> ROOTONE or similar substances? Can someone send my a list of plants
> that will respond to this stuff, or point me to a FAQ list?
Rootone and Hormonex are a couple of brands of synthetic rooting hormones--
and I use them all the time in the greenhouse when I'm striking cuttings.
These come in a variety of strengths (they are auxin analogs), and you
just dip the last few nodes into the powder, tap the excess off, and stick
the cutting into the rooting media.
Here's where the fun starts: IAA and its analogs _inhibit_ root growth
at high concentrations, and the listings on the sides of the cans or
packets generally talk about only a few common species. Some species
will root in single-strength Hormonex, but won't root in higher
concentrations. Another species wouldn't root at lower concentrations,
will root at double strength, and won't root at highest strength....
My seat-of-the-pants guide for which strength to choose is lowest
strength for herbaceous plants, middle strength for most vines/trees/shrubs,
and highest strength for hard-to-root plants like conifers.
If I've got plenty of plant material to play with, and I really don't
know how this species will respond, I put some untreated cuttings in
the mist bed, and some treated with each of the concentrations on hand.
Then I get out that underutilized best tool, the notebook, and start
taking notes.
If I don't have much, I try untreated and treated with lowest concentration.
Then if I see no roots in 6 weeks, I'll bump it up to medium conc...
For the absolutely most stubborn, hard to root plants, I use very dilute
2,4-D, which is also an auxin analog (it essentially kills at
herbicidal concentrations by "growing the plant to death").
Why do I use Rootone, etc.? Well, if you get the right concentration,
the cuttings _do_ root much faster and come out of the mist bed much
sooner than if I had untreated cuttings. Our mist bed isn't very big,
and we all have to share the space, so "KLIER, GET YOUR D**N CUTTINGS
OUT OF HERE!!!!" There is also a little fungicide in most preparations
and that seems to help improve the survival.
I don't have a list of what plants need what strength. The commonly
available Rootone is the lowest of the 3 concentrations available--
it's an OK choice for most things. I suspect that a professional plant
propagation manuals have tables of all this, but I don't own one.
Just need to hit a few more booksales and used book stores! ;-)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
----*----
Article 10771 (106 more) in rec.gardens:
From: drewsxpa@salem.intel.com (Paul Drews)
Subject: Re: plant root hormones?
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:37:40 GMT
>ROOTONE is advertised as a plant root hormone that encourages cuttings
>to grow roots and become real plants. Has anybody out there ever used
>ROOTONE or similar substances? Can someone send my a list of plants
>that will respond to this stuff, or point me to a FAQ list?
Just a few things to add to Kay's excellent reply:
A good reference book I use is "The reference manual of woody plant
propagation". It has an excellent discussion of chemicals,
techniques, etc. along with specific information for a wide variety
of woody plant species. No info on rooting techniques for non-woody
plants, although my sense is that you use lower concentrations and get
quicker results. I can get an ISBN and so forth for the book from
home if you can't find it in a well-stocked gardening bookstore.
This book mentions three hormones: IAA (I can't remember what this
stands for. It was had no effect or an inhibiting effect for most
things). NAA, which stands for "Naphthaleneacetic acid". This is
used for some woody plant propagation, but isn't too effective. IBA,
which stands for "Indole-3 Butyric Acid" is the most popular rooting
hormone for woody plants. I have the vague impression that NAA may be
more widely used for the non-woody plants.
NAA and IBA are solids at room temperature. They are either dissolved
in an alcohol-water solution or mixed with talc powder for use. You
typically buy them this way, since only tiny amounts are required and
the chemicals are very expensive and poisonous. Here's a couple of
products:
Rootone:
NAA with talc, although I once found a packet of this way in the back
of the pile at some store that claimed to have IBA. I vaguely recall
that the concentration was 0.01% which is way too low for most
woody-plant use. I have used it successfully for non-woody plants,
though. This is usually the only one you can find in your local
gardening store.
Hormex:
IBA with talc. Comes in "number 1, number 5, number 8, and number
16", with the number indicating the concentration (number 8 is 8000
PPM, etc.). As Kay points out, too low a concentration is not
effective, too high "burns" the plant. Hormex number 8 is a good
mid-range for the woody plants.
Hormodin:
IBA with talc. Comes in 1, 2, or 3, at 1000, 5000, 8000 PPM
respecitvely. Check the bottle label for exact numbers. When I
bought some of this stuff, it came with a table of a couple of hundred
woody plant species together with the proper hormodin number to go
with them.
Dip-N-Grow:
IBA in alcohol-water solution. I think I got it in a 10000 PPM
solution intended to be diluted with water.
There are more, but these are the ones I have experience with. You
can find Rootone at most gardening stores. I had to go to a nursery
supply place to find the others (Teufel nurseries in Portland, Oregon
in my case). The talc formulations are the easiest to handle and use
in my opinion, although the solutions may have slightly higher success
ratios.
The most common recipe for use (for deciduous hardwoods) seems to be
to take cuttings in june-july, dip the ends of the cuttings and knock
off the excess. Stick them in moist a perlite-peat mixture and keep
them from drying out. They will dry out very easily, since they don't
have any decent root systems to suck up water yet. You have to keep
them moist and shady. I have used a mist bottle twice a day with a
saran wrap cover, but still dried out quite a few. I envy Kay her
greenhouse and automated misting system. Start with some easy stuff
like willow, wisteria, poplar, and dogwood first to get the hang of
it.
For the few conifers that will root (the redwoods, yews, some cedars
and junipers (I can see the botanists shuddering at my classification
system)) the magic formula seems to be to take fall to midwinder
cuttings. These do best with cold tops and warm bottoms. I don't
have the equipment for this, so I will be experimenting this winter
with cold-all-over techniques.
By the way, the rooting hormones are dreadfully poisonous. Read the
caution labels on the containers. Don't even store them near food or
fertilizer and don't use them on stuff you're going to eat.
- PauL Drews
drewsxpa@ashland.intel.com
End of article 9868 (of 9893)--what next? [npq] 9870
Article 9870 (74 more) in rec.gardens:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Subject: FAQ-- Rose catalogs
Date: 10 Aug 92 16:24:13 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 309
US and CANADA ROSE CATALOGS -- FAQ
Susan Gere compiled a rather extensive list of North American
rose nurseries; most of the kudos go to her. Kay Klier
supplemented the list slightly.
Some of these catalogs are basically lists; many of the roses
(esp. species roses and older roses) are beautifully illustrated
in Martyn Rix and John Phillip's _Roses_, Random House,
(reprint of earlier British edition from Pan Books).
Another good reference is:
Reddell, Rayford C, with MFK Fisher. 1988. _Growing Good Roses_.
Harper & Row.:
The America Rose Society, (PO Box 30000, Shreveport, LA 71130)
publishes a number of specialist books and pamphlets on levels
ranging from "novice" to "expert". and a monthly journal, _The
American Rose_.
All-American Rose Selections (PO Box 218; Shanadoah, IA 51601)
spponsors 23 test-gardens for trials of new introductions,
including one at:
Horticulture Garden
Iowa State University
Ames, IA 50011
OK, WHERE ARE THE OTHERS?????
To locate the source of any commercially propagated rose,
contact:
Bev Dobson's Combined Rose List
215 Harriman Road
Irvington, NY 10533
---------------------------------
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
409 836-9051
Cat $2; old roses and companion perennials
BDK Nursery
PO Box 628
Apopka, FL 32704
minatures
Carroll Gardens
P.O. Box 310
Westminster, MD 21157
301 848-5422
Corn Hill Nursery
RR 5, Route 890
Petitcodiac, N.B.
E0A 2H0 Canada
506 756-3635
Cat $2
Country Bloomers Nursery
20091 E. Chapman Ave.
Orange, CA 92669
714 633-7222
Country Heritage Roses
Route 2, Box 1401
Scurry, TX 75158
214 452-3380
Earl May Seed & Nursery L.P.
Shenandoah, IA 51603
800 831-4193
Forest Farms
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR 97544
503 846-6963
Cat $1.50
Forevergreen Farm
70 New Gloucester Road
North Yarmouth, ME 04021
207 829-5830
Cat $0
Gloria Dei Nursery
36 East Road
High Falls Park, NY 12440
miniatures
Greenmantle Nursery
3010 Ettersburg Road
Garberville, CA 95440
707 986-7504
Gurney Seed & Nursery
110 Capitol Street
Yankton, SD 57079
605 665-4451
Cat $0; handles Brownell "Subzero Roses"
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Oregon
503 538-1576
Heritage Rosarium
211 Haviland Mill Road
Brookeville, MD 20833
301 774-2806
Cat $1
Heritage Rose Gardens
16831 Mitchell Creek Drive
Fort Bragg, CA 95437
707 964-3748
Cat $1
High Country Rosarium
1717 Downing at Park Ave.
Denver, CO 80218
303 832-4026
Historical Roses
1657 W. Jackson Street
Painesville, OH 44077
216 357-7270
Cat $0; old and modern cvs.
Hortico Roses
Robson Road, RR 1
Waterdown, Ontario
L0R 2H1 Canada
416 689-6984
Cat $2
Inter-State Nurseries
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MI 63353
314 754-4525
800 325-4180
Jackson and Perkins
2518 South Pacific Highway
PO Box 1028
Medford, OR 97501
Cat $0; modern roses; also some fruits, veg, herbs.
Keener Classics
205 E. Edgewood
Friendswood, TX 77546
Cat $0; old roses for the South
Kimbrew-Walter Roses
Route 2, Box 172
Grand Saline, TX 75140
214 829-2968
Kraus Nurseries
Carlisle, Ontario 10R 1H0
Canada
Cat $0; roses, fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs, some
berries and grapes.
Krider Nurseries
P.O. Box 29
Middlebury, IN 46540
219 825-5714
Lowe's Own Root Roses
6 Sheffield Road
Nashua, NH 03062
603 888-2214
Cat $2; ca. 500 cvs; also custom propagation.
MB Farm Miniature Roses
Jamison Hill Road
Clinton Corners, NY 12514
miniatures
McDaniels Miniature Roses
7523 Zemco Street
Lemon Grove, CA 92045
minatures
Mini Farm
PO Box 501
Bon Aqua, TN 37025
miiniatures
Mini-Roses
PO Box 4255
Station A
Dallas, TX 75208
Car $0; miniatures
Miniature Plant Kingdom
4125 Harrison Grade Road
Sebastopol, CA 95472
Cat $1; miniatures
Morden Nurseries
P.O. Box 1270
Morden, Manitoba
R0G 1J0 Canada
204 822-3311
Nor'East Miniature Roses
58 Hammond Street
Rowley, MA 01969
Cat $0; minatures
Pickering Nurseries
670 Kingston Road Hwy 2
Pickering, Ontario
L1V 1A6 Canada
416 839-2111
Cat $2 (price list free)
Pixie Treasures Miniature Roses
4121 Prospect Avenue
Yorba Linda, CA 92686
Cat $1; miniatures
Rose Acres
6641 Crystal Blvd.
Diamond Springs, CA 95619
916 626-1722
Cat SASE; modern and old roses; strong on musk and single
roses.
Rose Garden and Mini-Rose Nursery
PO Box 203
Cross Hill, SC 29332
miniatures
Rosehill Farm
PO Box 203
Galena, MD 21635
miniatures
Roses by Fred Edmunds
6235 SW Kahle Road
Wilsonville, OR 97070
Cat $0; old and modern roses, including "classic" modern roses
of Kordes, McFredy, Warriner, Meilland, Tantau
Roses of Yesterday & Today
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
408 724-3537
Cat $3; One of the most mouth-wateringly written catalogs!
Roseway Nurseries
205 N Main
PO Box 269
Ridgefield, WA 98642
Cat $0; modern roses
Smith & Hawken (seems to be expanding into the old rose market)
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, CA 94941
Cat info 415 383-2000
Spring Hill Nurseries
110 W Elm Street
Tipp City, OH 43571
Cat $0; mostly hybrid teas and grandifloras, some climbers and
tree roses.
Springwood Miniature Roses
Port Credit
Box 255
Mississauga, Ontario, L5G 4L8
Canada
miniatures
Stocking Rose Nursery
785 N Capitol Avenue
San Jose, CA 95133
Cat $0; modern roses
Tiny Jewels Nursery
9509 N Bartlett Road
Oklahoma City, OK 73131
miniatures
Tiny Petals Nursery
489 Minot Avenue
Chula Vista, CA 92010
Thomasville Nurseries
PO Box 7
Thomasville, GA 31799
Cat $0; modern roses, evergreen & native azaleas; daylilies,
liriope
Wayside Gardens
PO Box 1
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
Cat $0; perennials, including some roses, esp. "English
garden" class
Yesterday's Rose
572 Las Colindas Road
San Rafael, CA 94903
From: Kay Klier
Subject: Re: The Rundown on Roses (long)
Date: 5 Feb 92 04:27:39 GMT
> First of all, what distinguishes various kinds of roses? I can't
> reliably tell the difference between a Floribunda, a Bourbon, or
> a Damask. I'm pretty good on hybrid teas... But all the various
> forms of old-fashioned roses confuse me completely -- they all look
> overpetaled and kind of cabbagey.
> I've figured out that moss roses have fuzzy branches and foliage,
> but what are hybrid perpetuals and Gallicas? What is a Portland
> rose (the only comment in one catalog was, "Akin to the Damask."
> Thanks a lot)? I used to live in Portland, and I'd go visit the
> rose test gardens and admire the plants, but I couldn't ever figure
> out the distinguishing characteristics.
> Is a hedge rose the same as a shrub rose? What about a bedding rose?
> An English rose? Hybrid Musk? Landscape rose? And, yes, cabbage rose?
Well, I'm NOT a rosarian, but I can tell you that most of us have similar
problems in classifying cultivated roses. Including (especially?)
the plant taxonomists. Modern roses are a giant amalgam of all sorts
of species, and some of the more important characteristics of a parental
species might not show up in outward appearance, but might instead
influence a character like winter hardiness.
Me, I'm a utilitarian when it comes to rose classifications. I divide
the groups into old-fashioned or garden roses (which usually smell
pretty good, & bloom once or a few times a year) and modern roses, which
are bred to be in bloom nearly all season, and often look a lot like
florist's roses. Generally not much scent, either. (These are, of
course, generalizations, and there are some nicely scented modern roses,
and some old-fashioned types that don't smell much at all.)
Shrub roses are that get at least as big as a forsythia, IMHO, and if
you plant them in a row, they are then hedge roses. If you've got
a single big shrub rose, then I call that a landscape rose. Might be
the same plant as the one in the hedge... I like to grow species
roses rather than recent cultivars, so most of mine are shrub roses.
Bedding roses are roses that are planted in beds like geraniums in a
park flower bed (not my favorite way to use roses, but that's my
problem...). These are generally hybrid tea type roses.
English roses are a fairly new development; they are supposed to combine
the form and odors of old fashioned roses with the blooming habits of
a hybrid tea. Then there are climbing roses and ground-cover roses
(in both the old and modern groups)....
Now, if you're trying to guess whether a particular rose cultivar might
do well for you, you need to have some idea of the ancestry. That's
where groups like "Bourbon", "China Tea", "hybrid tea", "rugosa", etc.
start getting useful. These are rough indications of how likely the
plant is to survive your winters, what sort of abuse it can take,
what it will smell like, and the general form and odor of the flowers.
Roses with a China rose ancestry tend to bloom often (for old-fashioned
roses), but they don't stand much frost. Most of the native
European roses (like Rosa gallica, apothecary's rose) bloom once a year.
Other European roses that have had a big role in modern rose ancestry are
Rosa x alba (which is itself a hybrid) and the damask roses, which are
also hybrids. Cabbage roses (R. x centifolia, provence rose) are
hybrids of a damask and an alba rose. Portland roses were named after
a duchess of Portland (England), right about 1800. Moss roses are
mutants that have croped up several times in the cabbage roses and
the damasks.
The China roses that were selected in Europe, were, as I said earlier,
pretty frost-tender. Tea roses are also tender Chinese roses, but
they were hybridized with the Bourbon roses and the Noisettes. When
they crossed the bourbons, noisettes and hybrid perpetuals, the result
was the first hybrid tea roses.
OK, so where did the Bourbons, Noisettes, and Hybrid Perpetuals come
from? The Bourbons are selections of Rosa chinensis hybridized with
an unknown rose growing in Egypt in the early 1800's. Someone
sent some seeds on to France, where they became great favorites. Redoute,
Marie Antoinette's painting teacher, did a lot of watercolors of
these.
Noisettes are hybrids between Rosa chinensis and Rosa moschata (musk
rose). They were first grown in South Carolina.
Hybrid Perpetuals are from (Portland x China) x (Gallica x China).
Because of the large amounts of R. chinensis ancestry, most of these
are pretty frost-tender.
There are a lot of other groups of roses that represent selections
from certain hybrid ancestries, but I think you get the idea...
The Phillips and Rix book called Roses has a fairly good section on
history of modern cultivar groups. Trouble is, it gets so complicated,
that you've almost got to draw out ancestry charts to figure out
what's going on.
Truthfully, I just sort of know the rose groups that I'm most likely
to be able to grow (for my climate, rugosas, polyanthas, some wichurianas,
sweet briars, pimpinellifolias, and anything with a R. multiflora, R.
setigera or R. arkansana ancestry, as well as some others). The rest
I visit in some nice botanical garden in some nice warm area, and
say, "gee, wish that one would make it up north...".
Subject: THORNLESS ROSE UPDATE
Date: 21 May 92 12:15:22 GMT
A few days ago I e-mailed a reply to someone who wanted to know about
hardy, thornless roses. Then I thought perhaps I ought to share what
I have learned with the rest of this newsgroup. I have about fifty
different varieties of roses planted around my house, mostly old garden
roses, i.e. varieties in cultivation before the emergence of the hybrid
tea roses in the last third of the 19th century. Those varieties I have
that are both extremely hardy (they survived -5/-10F this winter and a
brutal mid-March frost that killed some hybrid teas) and thornless or nearly
so include REINE DES VIOLETTES, ROSA CENTIFOLIA PARVIFOLIA, ROSA GALLICA
OFFICINALIS, THERESE BUGNET(thorns appear on the lower 12 inches of
the 4-5 foot canes),NASTARANA, ICEBERG(a floribunda) and TOUR DE MALAKOFF.
Of these, the ones with the least thorns are REINE DES VIOLETTES and
CENTIFOLIA PARVIFOLIA.
From: Kay Klier
Subject: Re: The Rundown on Roses (long)
Date: 5 Feb 92 04:27:39 GMT
> First of all, what distinguishes various kinds of roses? I can't
> reliably tell the difference between a Floribunda, a Bourbon, or
> a Damask. I'm pretty good on hybrid teas... But all the various
> forms of old-fashioned roses confuse me completely -- they all look
> overpetaled and kind of cabbagey.
> I've figured out that moss roses have fuzzy branches and foliage,
> but what are hybrid perpetuals and Gallicas? What is a Portland
> rose (the only comment in one catalog was, "Akin to the Damask."
> Thanks a lot)? I used to live in Portland, and I'd go visit the
> rose test gardens and admire the plants, but I couldn't ever figure
> out the distinguishing characteristics.
> Is a hedge rose the same as a shrub rose? What about a bedding rose?
> An English rose? Hybrid Musk? Landscape rose? And, yes, cabbage rose?
Well, I'm NOT a rosarian, but I can tell you that most of us have similar
problems in classifying cultivated roses. Including (especially?)
the plant taxonomists. Modern roses are a giant amalgam of all sorts
of species, and some of the more important characteristics of a parental
species might not show up in outward appearance, but might instead
influence a character like winter hardiness.
Me, I'm a utilitarian when it comes to rose classifications. I divide
the groups into old-fashioned or garden roses (which usually smell
pretty good, & bloom once or a few times a year) and modern roses, which
are bred to be in bloom nearly all season, and often look a lot like
florist's roses. Generally not much scent, either. (These are, of
course, generalizations, and there are some nicely scented modern roses,
and some old-fashioned types that don't smell much at all.)
Shrub roses are that get at least as big as a forsythia, IMHO, and if
you plant them in a row, they are then hedge roses. If you've got
a single big shrub rose, then I call that a landscape rose. Might be
the same plant as the one in the hedge... I like to grow species
roses rather than recent cultivars, so most of mine are shrub roses.
Bedding roses are roses that are planted in beds like geraniums in a
park flower bed (not my favorite way to use roses, but that's my
problem...). These are generally hybrid tea type roses.
English roses are a fairly new development; they are supposed to combine
the form and odors of old fashioned roses with the blooming habits of
a hybrid tea. Then there are climbing roses and ground-cover roses
(in both the old and modern groups)....
Now, if you're trying to guess whether a particular rose cultivar might
do well for you, you need to have some idea of the ancestry. That's
where groups like "Bourbon", "China Tea", "hybrid tea", "rugosa", etc.
start getting useful. These are rough indications of how likely the
plant is to survive your winters, what sort of abuse it can take,
what it will smell like, and the general form and odor of the flowers.
Roses with a China rose ancestry tend to bloom often (for old-fashioned
roses), but they don't stand much frost. Most of the native
European roses (like Rosa gallica, apothecary's rose) bloom once a year.
Other European roses that have had a big role in modern rose ancestry are
Rosa x alba (which is itself a hybrid) and the damask roses, which are
also hybrids. Cabbage roses (R. x centifolia, provence rose) are
hybrids of a damask and an alba rose. Portland roses were named after
a duchess of Portland (England), right about 1800. Moss roses are
mutants that have croped up several times in the cabbage roses and
the damasks.
The China roses that were selected in Europe, were, as I said earlier,
pretty frost-tender. Tea roses are also tender Chinese roses, but
they were hybridized with the Bourbon roses and the Noisettes. When
they crossed the bourbons, noisettes and hybrid perpetuals, the result
was the first hybrid tea roses.
OK, so where did the Bourbons, Noisettes, and Hybrid Perpetuals come
from? The Bourbons are selections of Rosa chinensis hybridized with
an unknown rose growing in Egypt in the early 1800's. Someone
sent some seeds on to France, where they became great favorites. Redoute,
Marie Antoinette's painting teacher, did a lot of watercolors of
these.
Noisettes are hybrids between Rosa chinensis and Rosa moschata (musk
rose). They were first grown in South Carolina.
Hybrid Perpetuals are from (Portland x China) x (Gallica x China).
Because of the large amounts of R. chinensis ancestry, most of these
are pretty frost-tender.
There are a lot of other groups of roses that represent selections
from certain hybrid ancestries, but I think you get the idea...
The Phillips and Rix book called Roses has a fairly good section on
history of modern cultivar groups. Trouble is, it gets so complicated,
that you've almost got to draw out ancestry charts to figure out
what's going on.
Truthfully, I just sort of know the rose groups that I'm most likely
to be able to grow (for my climate, rugosas, polyanthas, some wichurianas,
sweet briars, pimpinellifolias, and anything with a R. multiflora, R.
setigera or R. arkansana ancestry, as well as some others). The rest
I visit in some nice botanical garden in some nice warm area, and
say, "gee, wish that one would make it up north...".
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
Subject: Re: Pruning roses for repeat bloom...
Date: 22 Apr 92 21:33:32 GMT
> Since Mr. Lincoln has made these beautiful flowers and new shoots are on the
> way, I need to know a little about where, when, and if to cut the
> flowers off.
> As I understand it, it is good to prune the flowers to encourage more
> growth and blooming.
Yes, this is true.
> But when?
> Should the flower be cut toward the beginning, middle, or end of the
> bloom? Are any of these okay, so long as you don't leave it sit there
> once the petals fall?
Any of the above times is fine. If not cut back before, definintely cut
them back when the petals fall.
> And where?
> Is there some particularly good spot to make the cut? My guess would be
> to cut it just above (1/4 inch?) a leaf-joint on the stem, maybe 3 to 5
> joints below the bloom. Is this right?
General pruning rules:
1) The more plant that you leave the quicker your rose will rebloom.
Nutrients are stored in the plant and the old leaves will be producing
the energy for the new leaves.
2) Remove anything smaller in diameter than a pencil (This is for hybrid teas,
which your roses are). Anything smaller will only provide weak growth that
can't support blooms.
3) Cut just above an out-facing leaf node. This is to keep the center of
the plant open and allow for good air circulation and hence limit
susceptibility to disease. (The old rule was that this node had to have
at least 5 leaflets, but if the diameter is enough, 3 will work fine.)
4) Fertilize after each bloom/cut-back cycle.
My hints/rules:
1) I ignore the out-facing leaf node advice after the first couple of
bloom cycles. The growing season is too long here and you can end up
with eight foot roses on long canes that may even need staking. I'll
often cut to an in-facing node to get some growth into the interior of
the plant. (I believe this is called bird caging. Does anyone know
the term?)
2) If it is hot in the late summer, the rebloom will take longer.
Sometimes (especially in drought years when I haven't been watering or
fertilizing to conserve water), I'll do a mini-rose prune and
reshaping to get a more vigorous fall bloom.
My neighbors roses are near mine. Some are even the same
varieties. Their gardener usually cuts the roses back later after
bloom than mine and then too heavily. Usually by the end of the
summer I'll have had a couple more blooming cycles with more roses
than they get.
> And how?
> I imagine you are supposed to cut the stem on a slant. But should
> the longer side of the stem wind up on the joint side or the opposite
> side?
The main thing with the cut is that it is not parallel to the ground.
This is so that water will run off and prevents diseases from entering
the plant. I find this doesn't make much of a difference since it
rarely rains here in the summer and I have my roses on drip
irrigation.
> Rose people, shower me with your knowledge, please!
Hope this helped.
Jim
Subject: Re: Rose update...
Summary: Growing Roses organically and disease-resistant varieties
Date: 25 Apr 92 17:26:41 GMT
> Recent hybrids: I am disappointed to see several new David Austins
>in my yard getting mildew. They are supposed to combine the virtues
>of old and new, but I am getting skeptical.
The recent (May/June) anniversary issue of Organic Gardening has a great
article on growing roses organically, including some suggestions for more/less
resistant plants. Clair Martin, curator of Huntington Gardens in San Marino,
CA suggests the following after 5 years of trials:
Healthier plants:
Graham Thomas, Pretty Jessica, Belle Story, Othello, Claire Rose
More susceptible to mildew:
Gertrude jekyll, Bredon, Proud Titania, Prospero (also to rust), The Miller,
Lordly Oberon and the author adds Fisherman's Friend.
Other varieties are also discussed as well as explainations and descriptions
of various common diseases, and how to possibly treat.
From: klier
[2] Rose conditioning (was Rose update)
Date: Fri May 1 20:56:38 1992
> In Australia, Western Australia to be precise, one of the best varieties
> to grow is Maria Callas. Gorgeous colour, size and scent!!
> Mr Lincoln is also very popular and I am trying to get a bush for my new
> garden at the moment to see for myself. By far my favourite variety on
> the bush is Fresia, though it doesn't last very long in water. Does
> anyone have any ideas on how to increase the life in water?
Well, I won't ask why, with all the weird & wonderful Australian flora,
someone would grow roses...;-)
Do you condition your roses when you cut them? Makes a world of difference!
Cut flowers in the early morning or after a rain, or any time that they
are NOT under water stress. Cut the stem at least an inch or so longer
(2-4cm, in rational terms) than you need, and immediately place the stem
in water.
Back in the house, recut the stem on a slant UNDER WATER with a very sharp
knife or (my choice) a single-edged razor blade. Keep the cut end under water
at all times. Now remove all foliage that will be under water when you
display the bloom. (If the leaves will be above water in the final vase,
it's OK to keep them on.) Now find a clean container that is at least as
deep as the rose is tall, and fill it with warmish water -- about 100oF
or 38oC. Immerse the rose stem and foliage in the container to the base
of the rose flower, and place the container in a cool place for 8-12
hours (hint, not the refrigerator if you keep fruit in it-- ethylene
from ripening fruit will cause premature petal drop.)
After 8-12 hours, you can remove the rose and put it in the decorative
vase. Be sure vases are scrupulously clean, since bacterial and fungal
growth kill cut flowers quite rapidly. Change the water in the vase
every day. Recut the stem underwater every day if you can (kinda hard
in a major arrangement!)
Other treatments that I find too much to bother with:
commercial cut flower foods, usually with a base of sucrose and silver
nitrate or sucrtse and hydroxyquinones.
home-made formulas, the best of which is probably 50% 7-up or other
fizzy lemon soda + 1 1/2 tsp (30 ml) household chlorine bleach.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:37 CDT
From: KLIER@iscsvax.uni.edu
GENERAL SEED CATALOGS: NORTH AMERICAN
(and a few plant catalogs, and a few British and Swedish firms)
revision of 2 October, 1992
Bob Batson provided the list that was the basis of this FAQ. Comments are
mainly his. Jim Bishop, Steve Holder, Mike Huben, Risto Paasivirta,
Beverly Erlebacher, Ceci Henningsson added others. Another good place to
hunt seed catalog addresses is the list published annually in a winter
issue of _Flower and Garden_ Magazine. Most spring seed catalogs are
issued in late December/early January. Some additions and comments by Kay
Klier; typos are probably hers!
Unless otherwise indicated, assume the catalog covers a general range
of seeds, including flowers, vegetables and herbs.
Beginning gardeners are advised to obtain and study the catalogs that
are marked as especially useful for novices; you'll get good basic
gardening information (mostly for free!). The White Flower Farm catalogs
are also well-written information on growing perennials, shrubs and trees.
You may find yourself saving these as reference materials.
Native North American species, specialist lists, catalogs of plants,
bulb catalogs, and herb catalogs are covered in their respective FAQL's.
Cat - Catalog
CC - Credit Cards
cv - cultivar(s) (=variety)
heirloom -- old cultivars (varieties)
Min. - Minimum Order
OVER - Overseas
PC - Personal Checks
OC - Other Currencies
op - open-pollinated (non-hybrid)
orn - ornamentals
R&W - retail and wholesale
SASE - Self-Addressed Stamped Envelope
SP: - Specialises In
veg. - vegetable(s)
* - good for beginning gardeners
+ - highly recommended for beginning gardeners, IMHO
ABUNDANT LIFE SEED FOUNDATION BANANA TREE (THE)
P.O. Box 772 715 Northampton St.
Townsend, WA 98368 Easton, PA 18042
Cat $1, R&W, Min. $10; op & Cat $2, R&W, PC/CC, OVER, Min.
heirloom veg, herbs, green $6.50, SP: rare & uncommon tropical
manures, natives, books; organic seeds & bulbs, banana corms, palms,
emphasis. oriental veg., ornamentals.
AGWAY, INC. BAXTER (WALTER) SEED CO.
1225 Zeager Road P.O. Box 8175
Elisabethtown, PA 17022 Weslaco, TX 78596-3175
Cat $0, PC/CC; A full-line Cat $0, R&W, PC, OVER, Min. $1
farmer's co-op for seeds
BEA'S SERVICE
ALBERTA NURSERIES & SEEDS, LTD. P.O. Box 8422
Box 20 Calabasas, CA 91302
Bowden, Alta. Cat $0, PC, OVER, SP: chili
Canada T0M 0K0 pepper seeds from Mexico
Cat $0 in Canada, $2 US; orn &
veg for short seasons; northern BELCHE HERB CO.
wildflowers P.O. Box 1305
Schenectedy, NY 12301
ALFREY SEEDS
P.O. Box 415 BOJO'S GARDEN SEED
Knoxville, TN 37901 P.O. Box 1408
Cat SASE, PC, OVER, SP: Rare Caldwell, ID 83606
and hard to find peppers, tomatoes, Cat $0, RW, PC, OVER, SP:
& okra traditional op veg. seeds for the
home gardener. Emphasis is on
ALLEN, STERLING & LOTHROP flavor.
191 US Rt 1
Falmouth, ME 04105 BOUNTIFUL GARDENS/ECOLOGY ACTION
Usual run of veg, ann. 5798 Ridgewood Road
ornamentals, list of cover crops, Wilits, CA 95490
fertilizers for organic gardeners, Cat $0, RW, PC/CC, OVER, SP: op
lawn grass. seeds; books
ALTA SEEDS BOUNTIFUL HARVEST
P.O. Box 253 P.O. Box 11295
Potrero, CA 92063 Des Moines, IA 50340-1295
Cat $2 refundable, PC/OC, OVER, Cat $1, PC/CC
SP: vegetables for home gardeners
BRICKER'S ORGANIC FARMS, INC.
APOTHECARY SEED COMPANY 824-K Sandbar Ferry Road
P.O. Box 1324 Augusta, GA 30901
Battle Ground, WA 98604 Cat $0, R&W PC
Cat $0, PC, SP: rare & unusual
op veg., culinary & medicinal BRODERNA
herbs, scented plants & natural Broederna Nelsons Froe AB**
pest control. S-362 00 TINGSRYD
SWEDEN
ARCHIAS' SEED STORE. Cat $0. Allround.
106 East Main Street **oe=o with two dots above it)
Sedalia, MO 65301
Cat $0, R&W, PC/CC, OVER; U of
Missouri vegetable cvs, including 5
cv popcorn, op corn, tomatoes.
BRUDY (JOHN) EXOTICS
3411 Westfield Drive COMPANION PLANTS
Brandon, FL 33511 7247 N Coolville Ridge
Cat $2 refundable, PC, OVER, Athens, OH 45701
SP: seeds of exotic tropical Cat $2; herbs (plants & seeds);
trees & shrubs, both ornamental & Eastern US natives.
edible.
COMSTOCK, FERRE & CO
BURGESS SEED AND PLANT CO. P.O. Box 125
905 Four Seasons Road Wethersfield, CT 06109-0125
Bloomington, IL 61701 Cat $0, RW, PC/CC, OVER, Min.
Cat $1, CC $15, old-fashioned flowers, veg.
(established in 1820)
BURPEE (W. ATLEE) & CO. * +
300 Park Avenue COOK'S GARDEN (THE)
Warminster, PA 18974 P.O. Box 65
Cat $0, RW, PC/CC Londonderry, VT 05148
One of the oldest & best known Cat $1, RW, PC/CC, OVER, SP:
seed comp. in the US; good general seeds of lettuce, salad greens &
range of plants; good info. mesclun; also has some gourmet veg.
seed
BURRELL (D.V.) SEED GROWERS CO.
P.O. Box 150 CORNS
Rocky Ford, CO 81067-0150 Rt 1, Box 32
Cat $0, RW, PC, OVER Turpin, OK 73950
Veg and flower seed; small Cat $1, deductible; op and
inexpensive packets; some vars esp. heirloom cvs of corn (maize)
for Intermountain West; melon list
esp. strong. COTTAGE GARDEN (THE)
PO Box 106
BUTCHART GARDENS SEED STORE Woodstock, IL 60098
Box 4010, Station A
Victoria, BC V8X 3X4 COUNTRY GARDEN (THE)
Canada PO Box 3539
Catalog $1, deductible; orn. Oakland, CA 94609
Cat $2; flowers for cutting
BUTTERBROOKE FARM
78 Barry Road CRICKET HILL HERB FARM
Oxford, CT 06483 Glen Street
Cat $0.50, RW, PC, OVER, SP: Rowley, MA 01969
traditional & op veg. seeds for Cat $1; herbs, scented
short growing seasons geraniums, orn.
CAPRILANDS HERB FARM CROSMAN SEED CORPORATION
534 Silver Street P.O. Box 110
Coventry, CT 06238 East Rochester, NY 14445
Cat $0, RW, PC, Min. $3,
CARROLL GARDENS (established in 1838); general
PO Box 310 range of seeds, most packets $0.59
Westminster, MD 21157
CROSS SEED CO, INC
CHILTERN SEEDS HC69, Box 2
Bortree Stile Bunker Hill, KS 67626
Ulverston Cat $1, deductible; organically
Cumbria, LA2 7PB grown seeds & grains
England
Cat $?; about *5000* species,
esp. European, South African,
Australian wildfls. Utterly
amazing!
CURRAN (JOHN) SPECIALTY SEED CO. ECHO
14 Cedar Ave. 17430 Durrance Road
Manahawkin, NY 08050 North Fort Meyers, FL 33917
Cat $1, PC/OC, OVER, SP: seed Cat $1, PC, OVER, SP: seeds &
of open-pollinated traditional & plants of underexploited but
heirloom veg. & culinary herbs, important tropical foods
selected for fine flavor &
resistance to drought & heat. ED HUME SEEDS
PO Box 2450
D.V. Burrell Seed Growers Kent, WA 98032
See: BURRELL Cat $0; veg. and orn. for cool-
season growing in Pacific NW.
DABNEY HERBS
Box 22061 EVERGREEN Y.H. ENTERPRISES
Louisville, Kentucky 40222 P.O. Box 17538
Anaheim, CA 92817
DAM (William) SEEDS Cat $1, deductible; oriental
P.O. Box 8400 vegetable seeds
Dundas, Ontario
Canada L9H 6M1 FARMER SEED & NURSEY CO. *
Cat $2 (ref); SP: Veg, orn, P.O. Box 129
herbs. Many Dutch and other Faribault, MN 55021
European cvs. Untreated seeds. Cat $0, PC/CC/OC, OVER
Ships to U.S. and other foreign
countries. FEDCO SEEDS
52 Mayflower Hill Dr.
De GIORGI CO. INC. Waterville, ME 04901
6011 N St Cat $1, veg, herb, orn seeds.
Omaha, NE 68117
Cat $2, PC, OVER FIELD'S (HENRY) SEED & NURSERY *
commercial and home grower +
quantities, emphasis esp. on cvs 407 Sycamore Street
for prairie states. Strong lists Shenandoah, IA 51602
for perennials, rock-garden, Cat $0, PC/CC; everything
cabbage. basic; folksy flavor.
DILL (Howard) ENTERPRISES FISCHER GREENHOUSES
RR1 609-927-3399
Windsor, Nova Scotia B0N 2T0 Linwood, NJ 08221
Canada specializing in African Violets
Cat $1; pumpkin seedss,
including 'Atlantic Giant' FLOATING MOUNTAIN SEEDS
P.O. Box 1275
DOMINION SEED HOUSE Port Angeles, WA 98362
115 Guelph St. Cat $1.50, PC/CC, OVER.
Georgetown, Ontario
CANADA L7G 4A2 FLOWER AND HERB EXCHANGE
Cat $0, *Canadian Orders ONLY*; Rt. 3, Box 239
good veg and flower list, many Decorah, Iowa 52101
especially selected for earliness
and cold-tolerance; good upply and FOX HILL FARM
tool list. PO Box 7
Parma, MI 49269
Dr. Yoo Farm
See: YOO FOX HOLLOW HERBS
P.O. Box 148
Earl May Seed and Nursery Company McGrann, PA 16236
SEE: MAY
FRAGRANT PATH GLECKLER'S SEEDSMEN
PO Box 328 Metamora, OH 43540
Fort Calhoun, NE 68023 Cat $0, PC, OVER, Min. $2;
Cat $1; Fragrant and old heirloom veg.
fashioned flowers.
GOODWIN CREEK GARDEN
FRIENDS OF THE TREES PO Box 83
P.O. Box 1064 Williams, OR 97544
Tonasket, WA 98855
GRINAN GARDENS
G. SEED CO. PO Box 14492
PO Box 72 San Fransisco, CA 94114
Tonasket, WA 98855 Cat $1, deductible;
Cat $1; op veg, herb, orn; many ornamentals, many from abroad
heirlooms.
GURNEY SEED & NURSEY CO. *+
GARDEN CITY SEEDS * 1224 Page Street
1324 Red Crow Road 605-665-1930
Victor, MT 59875-9713 Yankton, SD 57079
Cat $2, PC, OVER; seeds for Cat $0, PC/CC/OC
northern climates subzero roses; large stock of
orn. & veg. cvs. (established in
GARDENIMPORT INC. * 1866)
P.O. Box 760
Thornhill, ON L3T 4A5 HALINAR (Dr. JOSEPH C.)
CANADA 2333 Crooked Finger Rd
Cat $4, PC/CC, OVER (N.A. Scotts Mills, OR 97375
agents for Sutton Seeds of GB); Cat for 1 1st class stamp;
good bulb list as well as veg, seeds of daylilies, lilies, allium
flower; some British & European
cvs. HARRIS MORAN SEED COMPANY
3670 Buffalo Road
GARDENS ALIVE! Moreton Farm
P.O. Box 149 Rochester, NY 14624
Sunman, IN 47041
HARRIS SEEDS *
GAZE SEED CO. 60 Saginaw Drive
PO Box 640 Rochester, NY 14623
St. John's, Newfoundland A1C 5K8 Cat $0, PC/CC
CANADA general; also lawn seeds
Cat $0; orn, veg, lawn grasses,
trees, shrubs, good HASTINGS - THE SOUTHERN GARDENER'S
selection of tools & supplies, CATALOG
incl. forks and hand plows. 800-334-1771 (IN GA 404-755-6580)
1036 White Street, SW
Geo. W. Park Seed Co., Inc. PO Box 115535
SEE PARK'S Atlanta, GA 30310-8535
seeds, plants, water gardening,
GH ALTITUDE GARDENS organics, gardening aids
P.O. Box 4619
Ketchum, ID 83340 HASTINGS AND COMPANY (H.G.)
1-800-874-7333 (telephone) Box 4274
Cat $3, PC/CC, OVER. Atlanta, GA 30302
Regional seed company dedicated
to making available seeds of veg., HEIRLOOM GARDENS
herbs, wild flowers & native Box 138
grasses adapted to short season, Guerneville, CA 95446
high altitude climates around the Cat $2.50; orn. & herbs
world.
HEIRLOOM SEEDS
P.O. Box 245 J.W. Jung Seed Company
Finleyville, PA 15088-0245 See Jung's
Cat $1, deductible; veg & orn.
JACKSON AND PERKINS
Henry Fields and Company Box 1028
SEE FIELD'S Medford, OR 97501
1-800-292-grow
HIGH ALTITUDE GARDENS Cat $0, hybrid roses and other
PO Box 4238 perennials
Ketchum, ID 83340
Cat $3; op veg, wildflowers, JOHN SCHEEPERS, INC
native grasses, organic P.O. Box 700
fertiilizers and pest controls; Bantam, CT 06750
wildflower seed locally collected. 203-567-0838
Strong list for Intermountain West. nice range of bulbs
HOLLAND WILDFLOWER FARM HS JOHNNY'S SELECTED SEEDS *
Elkins, AR 72727 310 Foss Hill Road
Albion, ME 04910
HORTICULTURAL ENTERPRISES (AU) Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER, SP: seeds
P.O. Box 810082 for cool, short-season areas, esp.
Dallas, TX 75381-0082 veg.
Cat $0, PC. Large selection of
chile & sweet pepper seed JOHNSON SEED CO.
227 Ludwig Ave.
HUDSON (J.L), SEEDSMAN Dousman, WI 53118
P.O. Box 1058 Cat. $0; heirloom and modern
Redwood City, CA 94064 veg. seed.
Cat $1, PC, OVER
rarities, incl. veg from Zapotec JORDAN SEEDS INC
Indians of Mexico; mostly for 6400 Upper Afton Road
serious, experienced gardeners Woodbury, MN 55125
Cat $0
IMPECTA HANDELS
S-640 25 JULITA JUDE HERBS
SWEDEN Box 563-CJ
Cat $0. PC. house plants, Huntington Station, NY 11746
trees, flowers, herbs, vegetables.
Some black/white photos. SP: Rare JUNG QUALITY SEEDS
seeds. 414-326-4100 - orders only
335 S. High St.
INTERMOUNTAIN SEEDS Randolph, WI 53957-0001
P.O. Box Cat $0, PC/CC
Rexburg, ID 83440
Cat $0, PC. Veg., herb & flower KELLY NURSERIES
seeds adapted to the cool night Dansville, NY 12237
temperatures & short growing season
of the Intermountain region KESTER WILD GAME FOOD NURSERIES
PO Box V
ISLAND SEED MAIL ORDER Omro, WI 54963
PO Box 4278, Station A Cat $2; Seeds, bulbs for
Victoria, BC V8X 3X8 species favored as food and cover
CANADA by game species.
Cat $2; good basic list for
Pacific NW KITAZAWA SEED CO.
1748 Lane Avenue
J.L.HUDSON, SEEDSMAN Santa Clara, CA 95051
PO Box 1058-HW Cat $0; oriental veg and herb
Redwood City, CA 94064 seeds.
LONG ISLAND SEED COMPANY
KRIDER NURSERIES 1368 Flanders Road
PO Box 29 Flanders NY 11901
Middlebury, IN 46540
LOUISIANA NURSERY
KSA JOJOBA Rt 7, Box 43
19025 Parthenia St Opelousas, LA 70570
Northridge, CA 91324 3 catalogs: $3 daylilies &
Cat SASE + 2 $0.29 stamps; Louisiana irises; $5 magnolias,
jojoba trees, shrubs, vines; $3 crinums
and other bulbs
LAKELAND NURSERY SALES
Unique Merchandise Mart MAY (EARL) SEED & NURSERY *+
Building 1 208 North Elm Street
Hanover, PA Shenandoah, IA 51603
Cat $0; An amazing exercise in 1-800-831-4193 (telephone)
off-the-wall "common names" and Cat $0, PC/CC; old, established
hype. Caution (and a large grain seed and nursery with usual range
of salt) advised. of veg, orn, trees and shrubs.
LANDRETH SEED CO. * Mc CRORY'S SUNNY HILL HERB FARM
P.O. Box 6426 Star Route 3 Box 844
Baltimore, MD 21230 Eustis, FL 32726
Cat $2, OVER. (established in
1784); veg. McCLURE & ZIMMERMAN
108 W. Winnebago
LAVAL SEEDS [=SEMENANCES LAVAL] P.O. Box 368
3505 Saint Martin West Friesland, WI 53935
[=3505 Boulevard St-Martin Ouest] 414-326-5769
Ville de Laval, Que. bulbs, esp. species and uncommon.
Canada H7T 1A2
Cat. $0, good list of veg, orn, McFAYDEN SEEDS
houseplant seeds. PO Box 1800
Brandon, Manitoba R7A 6N4
LE JARDIN DU GOURMET Canada
West Danville, VT 05873 Cat $0; good selection of cvs
Gourmet veg. seeds. for colder climates; also wine and
beer-making supplies.
LE MARCHE SEEDS INTERNATIONAL
Box 566 MELLINGER'S INC. *+
Dixon, CA 95620 2310 West South Range Rd.
Gourrmet veg. seeds. North Lima, OH 44452-9731
1-800-321-7444 (telephone)
LEDDEN (OROL) & SONS 216-549-9861
P.O. Box 7 Fax: 216-549-3716
Sewell, NJ 08080-0007 Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER
609 468-1000 nursery stock, house plants,
Cat $0, PC/CC: cvs adapted for tools, pots, soil mixes, etc.;
NE US; pasture, lawn, some offers small quantities of
heirlooms; seeds, bulbs, plants, commercial growers supplies that
cover crops, supplies. can be otherwise difficult to find.
LIBERTY SEED COMPANY * MEYER SEED CO. *
P.O. Box 806 600 S. Caroline St.
New Philadelphia, OH 44663 Baltimore, MD 21231
216-364-1611 Cat $0, PC/CC; specializes in
fax: 216-364-6415 seed for MD, northern VA.
interesting mix of veg and farm
seeds, some flowers
MICHIGAN BULB COMPANY OF THE JUNGLE
1950 Waldorf, N.W. PO box 1801
Grand Rapids, MI 49550 sebastopol, ca 95473
cheap prices, complaints on Catalog $2, SP: ethnobotany ;
quality; caveat emptor Very exotic selection of seeds and
plants, mostly of ethno-
MIDWEST SEED GROWERS, INC. pharmacological or ethnic food
505 Walnut St. type. Also (strange) botanical
Kansas City, MO 64106 products.
MILEAGER'S GARDENS OLDS SEED CO. *
4838 Douglas Avenue P.O. Box 7790
Racine, WI 53402-2498 Madison, WI 53707
1-800-669-9956 Cat $2.50 refundable, PC, OVER
bulbs
ONTARIO SEED CO, LTD
MOON MOUNTAIN WILDFLOWERS Box 144
P.O. Box 34 Waterloo, Ont.
Morro Bay, CA 93442 Canada N2J 3Z9
MOUNTAIN SEED & NURSERY ORIENTAL SEED CO
P.O. Box 9107 PO Box 330058
Moscow, ID Hartford, CT 06133
Cat $1 refundable, PC/CC, OVER, Cat $2 deductible, oriental
SP: seeds for cold short season veg, herbs, orn.
areas
Orol Ledden & Sons, Inc.
MUSSER FORESTS, INC. See: Ledden
PO Box S-91 M
Indiana, PA 15701 Otis S. Twilley Seed Company, Inc.
412-465-5685 See: TWILLEY
fax: 412-465-9893
trees, esp. seedlings for Otto Richter & Sons
reforestation See: RICHTER
NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH PAGE SEED CO.
3950 W. New York Drive P.O. Box 158
Tucson, AZ 85745 Greene, NY 13778
Cat $1; 200+ cvs of vegetable Cat $0, PC
seed adapted to desert SW;
organized by an ethnobotanist, so PARK (GEORGE W.) SEED CO. *+
strong representation of seeds from Cokesbury Road
native peoples (landraces). Strong Greenwood, SC 29647-0001
book section. Cat $0, PC/CC
NICHOLS GARDEN NURSERY INC. *+ PEACE SEEDS
1190 North Pacific Hwy. 2385 S.E. Thompson St.
Albany, OR 97321 Corvallis, OR 97333
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER Cat $3.50, PC/OC, OVER
(unconfirmed reports of poor
germination) PEPPER GAL (THE)
10536 119th Ave. North
NOEL'S GARDEN SEEDS Largo, FL 34643
R.D. #2K Cat $0, PC Mails to US & Canada
Oxford, NY 13830 only. Seeds of over 200
Cat SASE, PC, SP: o.p. veg. for cultivars of hot, sweet &
home gardeners in the Northeast. ornamental peppers.
PIEDMONT PLANT COMPANY RICHTER AND SONS, LTD. (Otto)
PO Box 424 Box 26
Albany, GA 31703 Goodwood, Ontario L0C 1A0
Canada
PINETREE GARDEN SEEDS *+ Cat $2.50 Can, $4 US; extensive
Route 100 herb list, but also some veg and
New Gloucester, ME 04260 "useful plants"; organic pest
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER controls and beneficial insects for
Good seeds (many op) in small Canadian shipment only.
packets at very reasonable prices;
small selection of bulbs; pretty RONNINGER'S SEED POTATOES
good book and tool selection. Star Route
Moyie Springs, ID 83845
PORTER & SONS SEEDSMAN
Box 104 SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE
Stephenville, TX 76401-0104 Rt. 3, Box 239
Cat $0, good veg. list adapted Decorah, Iowa 52101
to TX, lesser flower list.
SEED SETS
PRAIRIE STATE COMMODITIES Dept. F
PO Box 6 1130 Tetherow Rd
Trilla, IL 62469 Williams, OR 97544
Cat $1; ag seeds, cover crops,
op field corn SEED SHOP, THE
Tongue River Stage
R.H. Shumway Miles City, MT 59301
SEE SHUMWAY Cat $2; cacti & succulent seed
SEEDS BLUM
RIPLEY'S BELIEVE IT OR NOT WORLD'S Idaho City Stage
MOST UNUSUAL GARDENING CATALOG Boise, ID 83706
10 Bay St Cat $3, PC, OVER, SP: heirloom
Westport, CT 06880 veg & flowers, listing over 1,000
Cat $1; giant veg & other varieties.
oddities
SEEDWAY, INC
R.H. SHUMWAY'S Box 250
PO Box 1 Hall, NY 14463
Granitevillle, SC 29829
412-465-5685 SELECT SEEDS
fax: 412-465-9893 180 Stickney Hill
Seeds, including wholesale and Union, CT 06076
bulk Cat $2; heirloom orn.
RAFAL SPICE CO Semenences Laval
2521 Russell St. Dept FC See: Laval Seeds
Detroit, MI 48207
SHADY MUSH HERB NURSERY
RAINBOW GARDENS Rt. 2
1444 E. Taylor Street Surrett Cove Td.
Vista, CA 92084 Leicester, NC 28748
Cat $2; Epiphyllums and other
succulents; good book list SHEPHERDS GARDEN SEEDS
30 Irene St
REDWOOD CITY SEED CO. Torrington, CT 06790
PO Box 361
Redwood City, CA 94064 SHUMWAY, R.H.
Cat. $1; op veg, herb, dye P.O. Box 777
plants Rockford, IL 61105
SILVER LAKE SEEDS
PO Box 4118, Suite E TAYLORS HERB GARDENS INC
Highland Park, NJ 08904, 1535 Lone Oak Rd
Vista, CA 92083
SMITH AND HAWKEN
25 Corte Madera TERRITORIAL SEED CO
Mill Valley, CA 94941 PO Box 27
415-383-2000 Lorane, OR 97451
no seeds, but bulbs, good tools,
garden furbelows THOMPSON AND MORGAN
Box 1308, Dept SP6
SOUTHERN EXPOSURE SEED EXCHANGE Jackson, NJ 08527
P.O. Box 158 Cat $0; amazing (by US standards)
North Garden, VA 22959 selection of veg, orn., greenhouse
Cat $3, deductible; heirloom species; US arm of British firm.
veg and regionallyy adapted cvs. Beginners may want this catalog
just to ogle, but many of the
species are not for novices.
SOUTHERN SEEDS
P.O. Box 2091 TINMOUTH CHANNEL FARM
Melbourne, FL 32902 PO Box 428B
1-800-356-1631 Tinmouth, VT 05773
Cat $1, PC, OVER, SP: o.p. veg. Cat $2 deductible; organically
for tropical & subtropical areas. produced herb plants & seed
Also banana corms, papaya seed &
chayote squash fruits for planting. TOMATO SEED COMPANY (THE)
PO Box 323
SPRING HILL Metuchen, NJ 08840
309-691-4616
110 W. Elm St. TOMATO GROWERS SUPPLY CO
Tipp City, OH 45371 PO Box 2237
mostly flowers Ft Myers, FL 33902
Cat $0; tomato and pepper seed
STARK BROTHERS NURSERY
Louisiana, MO 63353 TRADGARDSSPECIALISTEN
Traedgaardsspecialisten**
STOKES SEEDS INC. *+ c/o Svenskprodukter
P.O. Box 548 Box 476
Buffalo, NY 14240 S-351 06 VAEXJOE
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER SWEDEN
Cat free. SP: Bulbs.
SUNRISE ENTERPRISES **(ae=a with two dots above it)
P.O. Box 10058 (aa=a with a ring above it )
Elmwood, CT 06110
TREGUNNO SEEDS
SUTTON SEEDS 126 Catherine St North
Hele Road Hamilton, Ontario L8R 1J4
Torquay CANADA
Devon, TQ2 7QJ Cat $1 refundable
ENGLAND
Cat $0; UK equivalent of Burpees; TROPICAL SEEDS
good selection of "old fashioned P.O. Box 11122
flowers" and rock garden species. Honolulu, HI 96828
Cat $1 refundable, PC, OVER.
T&T SEEDS Seeds of exotic tropical flowering
PO Box 1710 trees, palms, papayas, Maui onions.
Winnipeg, Manitoba R3C 3P6 Also veg. cultivars developed at
Canada Univ. of Hawaii.
Cat $1; cvs adapted esp. for
cold prairies and plains region.
TSANG AND MA
PO Box 24 WAUKESHA SEED CO
Belmont, CA 94002 PO Box 1820
Cat $0; oriental herbs, veg, Waukesha, WI 53187
cooking supplies. Cat $0; evergreen seeds
TWILLEY SEED CO. WHITE FLOWER FARM
PO Box 65 Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
Trevose, PA 19047 1-800-888-7756
Cat $0; strongest in hybrid veg. Cat $0, CC, PC, SP: bulbs,
seeds for every region. perennials, shrubs, trees catalogs
are excellent references, good
UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII SEED PROGRAM reading!
Department of Horticulture
3190 Maile Way, Room 112 WILD AND CRAZY SEED CO
Honolulu, HI 96822 PO Box 895
Cat $0, PC, OVER. Veg. & fruit Durango, CO 81302
cultivars developed at the Univ. of
Hawaii for tropical areas. WILDFLOWER PATCH
442CJ Brookside
VERMONT BEAN SEED CO. Walnut Port, PA 18088
Garden Lane
Fair Haven, BT 05743 William Dam Seeds:
heirloom beans, and modern hybrid See DAM
veg.
WYATT-QUARLES SEED CO.
VESEY'S SEEDS Box 739
York P.E.I. Garner, NC 27529
Canada COA 1PO SP: SE US regional cvs.
Cat $0; veg & orn for short
growing seasons. YOO FARM (Dr.)
PO Box 290
W WEIBULL AB College Park, MD 20740
W Weibull AB Cat $0; oriental veg. seeds and
Box 520 Japanese mushroom spawn. Good
S-261 24 LANDSKRONA cultural information.
SWEDEN
Cat 25SEK. The main gardening
firm in Sweden. Allround. Colour
pictures and valuable tips.
W. Atlee Burpee Company
SEE BURPEE'S
WAYSIDE GARDENS *+
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
1-800-845-1124
Cat $0; pricey plants, but good
photos!; bulbs, perennials, shrubs,
trees, roses
WEEKS (CHRISTOPHER E.) PEPPERS
P.O. Box 3207
Kill Devil Hills, NC 27498
Cat SASE, PC, SP: hot peppers
WELL-SWEEP HERB FARM
317 Mr. Bethel Rd.
Port Murray, NJ. 07865
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 10:53:09 PDT
From: Jim.Watts@EBay.Sun.COM (Jim Watts)
Here is the most up to date FAQ list of catalogs that I have.
It is a compilation of many sources. I have drawn from many
postings and can't acknowledge all contributors. However,
for those of you that recognize your contributions ---
Thanks from all of us!
Happy Gardening,
Jim Watts
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Where Applicable:
Cat - Catalog
CC - Credit Cards
cv - cultivar(s) (=variety)
heirloom -- old cultivars (varieties)
Min. - Minimum Order
OVER - Overseas
PC - Personal Checks
OC - Other Currencies
op - open-pollinated (non-hybrid)
orn - ornamentals
R&W - retail and wholesale
SASE - Self-Addressed Stamped Envelope
SP: - Specialises In
veg. - vegetable(s)
* - good for beginning gardeners
+ - highly recommended for beginning gardeners, IMHO
ABUNDANT LIFE SEED FOUNDATION
P.O. Box 772
Townsend, WA 98368
Cat $1, R&W, Min. $10; op & heirloom veg, herbs, green
manures, books; organic emphasis.
A&P Orchids
Peters Road
Swansee, MA 02777
AGWAY, INC.
1225 Zeager Road
Elisabethtown, PA 17022
Cat $0, PC/CC; A full-line farmer's co-op for seeds
Ahrens Strawberry Nursery
RR 1
Huntingburg IN 47542
Alberta and Market Bros. Inc
2210 S. Federal Highway
Boynton Beach, FL 33435
ALBERTA NURSERIES & SEEDS, LTD.
Box 20
Bowden, Alta.
Canada T0M 0K0
Cat $0 in Canada, $2 US
ALFREY SEEDS
P.O. Box 415
Knoxville, TN 37901
Cat SASE, PC, OVER, SP: Rare and hard to find peppers,
tomatoes, & okra
Allen Company
P.O. Box 1577
Salisbury MD 21801
ALLEN, STERLING & LOTHROP
191 US Rt 1
Falmouth, ME 04105
Usual run of veg, ann. ornamentals, foog list of cover
crops, fertilizers for organic gardeners, lawn grass.
Alpen Gardens
173 Lawrence Lane
Kalispell MT 59901
Alpine Valley Gardens Good Recommendation for CA
2627 Calistoga Rd.
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
(707) 539-1749
ALTA SEEDS
P.O. Box 253
Potrero, CA 92063
Cat $2 refundable, PC/OC, OVER, SP: vegetables for home
gardeners
American Bamboo Co.
345 W. Second St.
Dayton OH 45402
Anderson Iris Gardens
22179 Keather Ave. N
Forest Lake MN 55025
Angelwood Nursery
12839 McKee School Road
Woodburn OR 97071
The Angraecum House
P.O. Box 976
Grass Valley CA 95945
Antique Rose Emporium
Rt. 5 Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
Phone: 409-836-9051
Anything Grows Greenhouse
1609 McKean Road
Ambler PA 19002
APOTHECARY SEED COMPANY
P.O. Box 1324
Battle Ground, WA 98604
Cat $0, PC, SP: rare & unusual op veg., culinary & med.
herbs, scented plants & natural pest control.
Appalachian Gardens
P.O. Box 82
Waynesboro PA 17268
Applesource
Rt. 1
Chapin IL 62628
Arbor & Espalier
201 Buena Vista Ave. E
San Francisco CA 94117
ARCHIAS' SEED CO.
106 East Main Street
Sedalia, MO 65301
Cat $0, R&W, PC/CC, OVER; U of Missouri vegetable cvs,
including 5 cv popcorn, op corn, tomatoes.
Armstrong Roses
P.O. Box 1020
Somis CA 93066
B & D LILIES
330 P Street
Port Townsend, WA 98368
BDK Nursery
P.O. Box 628
Apopka FL 32712
Bailey's
P.O. Box 654
Edmonds WA 98020
Bakker of Holland
U.S. Reservation Center
Louisiana MO 63353-0050
The Banana Tree
715 Northampton Street
Easton, PA 18042
Telephone: 215-253-9589
Catalog price: 0.75 [1988 edition, probably a buck by now]
For those gardeners able to provide the requisite well-drained
soil, abundant light, high humidity, and consistent heat in
the 75 deg. range, this booklet is bulging with bananas and
related tropical plants. More than a score of banana trees
(offered as corms) are listed. In addition, hundreds of rare
seeds spill across these 20 pages: euphorbias, proteas, and
yuccas, to name just a few. Descriptions are thorough and
precise.
Vernon Barnes and Son Nursery
P.O. Box 250
McMinnville TN 37110
BAXTER (WALTER) SEED CO.
P.O. Box 8175
Weslaco, TX 78596-3175
Cat $0, R&W, PC, OVER, Min. $1
Bear Creek Nursery
Box 411
Northport, Wa 99157
CAT $.50
The Beall Orchid Co,
3400 Academy Dr. S.E.
Auburn WA 98002
BEA'S SERVICE
P.O. Box 8422
Calabasas, CA 91302
Cat $0, PC, OVER, SP: chili pepper seeds from Mexico
Beersheeba Wildflower Garden
P.O. Box 551
Beersheba Springs TN 37305
Belche Herb Co.
P.O. Box 1305
Schenectedy NY 12301
Blue Star Lab
P.O. Box 173
Williamstown NY 13493
Bluestone Perrenials
7211 Middle Ridge Road
Madison OH 44057
BOJO'S GARDEN SEED
P.O. Box 1408
Caldwell, ID 83606
Cat $0, RW, PC, OVER, SP: traditional op veg. seeds for the
home gardener. Emphasis is on flavor.
Boordy Nursery
P.O. Box 38
Riderwood MD 21139
BOUNTIFUL GARDENS
5798 Ridgewood Road
Wilits, CA 95490
Cat $0, RW, PC/CC, OVER, SP: op seeds.
BOUNTIFUL HARVEST
P.O. Box 11295
Des Moines, IA 50340-1295
Cat $1, PC/CC
Breck's Good Reviews - 2
P.O. Box 1757 Bad Reviews -
Peoria IL 61656
or
6523 N. Galena Rd.
Peoria IL 61632
(309)691-4616
BRICKER'S ORGANIC FARMS, INC.
824-K Sandbar Ferry Road
Augusta, GA 30901
Cat $0, R&W PC
Lee Bristol Nursery
P.O. Box 5
Gaylordville CT 06755-0005
Brittingham Plant Farms
P.O. Box 2538
Salisbury MD 21801
Brookfield Nursery and Tree Plantation
P.O. Box 2490
Christiansburg VA 24073
Brown's Omaha Plant Farms Inc
P.O. Box 787
Omaha TX 75571
BRUDY (JOHN) EXOTICS
3411 Westfield Drive
Brandon, FL 33511
Cat $2 refundable, PC, OVER, SP: seeds of exotic tropical
trees & shrubs, both ornamental & edible.
BURGESS SEED AND PLANT CO.
905 Four Seasons Road
Bloomington, IL 61701
Cat $1, CC
B & T ASSOCIATES
Whitnell House
Fiddington, Bridgwater
Somerset TA5 1JE
England, U.K.
(278) 733-209
Extremely large selection of common and exotic seeds, probably the
largest of its type in the world, covering well over 25,000 species.
Publishes a series of lists in various categories.
Catalog - 2 International Reply Coupons, will sell to overseas
customers.
Buckley Nursery
646 N. River Rd.
Buckley WA 98321
Burnt Ridge Nursery
432 Burnt Ridge
Onalaska WA 98570
W. Atlee Burpee Co.
300 Park Ave.
Warminister PA 18974
One of the oldest & best known seed comp. in the US
BURRELL (D.V.) SEED GROWERS CO.
P.O. Box 150
Rocky Ford, CO 81067-0150
Cat $0, RW, PC, OVER
Veg and flower seed; small inexpensive packets; some vars esp.
for Intermountain West; melon list esp. strong.
BUSSE GARDENS
Rt. 2, Box 238
Cokato, MN 55321
612-286-2654
$1.00
BUTTERBROOKE FARM
78 Barry Road
Oxford, CT 06483
Cat SASE, RW, PC, OVER, SP: traditional & op veg. seeds.
C 'n C Protea
387 Carmen Plaza
Camarillo CA 93010-6041
Cactus by Dodie
934 E, Mettler Rd.
Lodi CA 95242
Cal Dixie Iris Gardens
14115 Pear St.
Riverside CA 92504
Caladium World
P.O. Drawer 629
Sebring FL 33871
California Nursery Co.
P.O. Box 2278
Fremont CA 94536
CAMELLIA FOREST
125 Carolina Forest Road
Chapel Hill, NC 27516
919-967-5529
$1 catalog price
CAPRILANDS HERB FARM
534 Silver Street
Coventry, CT 06238
Cardinal Nursery
Rt 1 Box 316
State Road NC 28676
Carino Nurseries
P.O. Box 538
Indiana PA 15701
CARROLL GARDENS
PO Box 310
Westminster, MD 21157
Carter Seeds
475 Mar Vista Drive
Vista CA 92083
Cascade Forestry Service
Rt. 1
Cascade IA 52033
Cedar Ridgge Nurseries
Cedar Ridge Rd.
Allison Park PA 15101
Chambers Nursery
26874 Ferguson Road
Junction City OR 97448
CHENHALEM GARDENS
P.O.Box 693
Newberg, OR 97132-0693
503-538-8920
free
Chestnut Hill Nursery Inc.
Route 1 Box 341
Alachua FL 32615
CHILTERN SEEDS
Bortree Stile
Ulverston
Cumbria, LA2 7PB
England
Cat $?; about *5000* species, esp. European, South African,
Australian wildfls.
Cold Stream Farm
2030 Free Soil Rd.
Free Soil MI 49411-9752
COMPANION PLANTS [CATALOG $2]
7247 North Coolville Ridge Road [Minimum Order]
Athens, OH 45701 [Plants $15]
(614) 592-4643 [Seeds $5]
COMSTOCK, FERRE & CO
P.O. Box 125
Wethersfield, CT 06109-0125
Cat $0, RW, PC/CC, OVER, Min. $15,
old-fashioned flowers, veg. (established in 1820)
COOK'S GARDEN (THE)
P.O. Box 65
Londonderry, VT 05148
Cat $1, RW, PC/CC, OVER, SP: seeds of lettuce, salad greens
& mesclun; also has some gourmet veg. seed
Cordon Bleu
418 Buena Creek Rd.
San Marcos, CA 92069
619-744-2810
Costal Gardens and Nursery
Route 3 Box 40
Myrtle Beach SC 29577
Comstock Ferre & Co.
P.O. Box 125
Wethersfield CT 06109
COTTAGE GARDEN (THE)
PO Box 106
Woodstock, IL 60098
The Country Garden
Route 2 Box 455A
Crivitz WI 54114
Creole Orrchids
P.O. Box 24458
New Orleans LA 70184-4458
CROSMAN SEED CORPORATION
P.O. Box 110
East Rochester, NY 14445
Cat $0, RW, PC, Min. $3, (established in 1838); general
range of seeds, most packets $0.59
THE CROWNSVILLE NURSERY
P.O.Box 797
Crownsville, MD 21032
301-923-2212
$2.00
CRUICKSHANK'S INC.
1015 Mt. Pleasant Road
Toronto, ONT
Canada M4P 2M1
Cumberland Valley Nurseries Inc
P.O. Box 471
McMinnville TN 37110-0471
CURRAN (JOHN) SPECIALTY SEED CO.
14 Cedar Ave.
Manahawkin, NY 08050
Cat $1, PC/OC, OVER, SP: seed of open-pollinated
traditional & heirloom veg. & culinary herbs, selected for
fine flavor & resistance to drought & heat.
DABNEY HERBS
Box 22061
Louisville, Kentucky
40222
Dahlias by Phil Traff
1316 132nd Ave. East
Sumner WA 98390
The Nursery at the Dallas Nature Center
7575 Wheatland Rd.
Dallas TX 75249
Dan's Garden Shop
5821 Woodwinds Circle
Frederick MD 21701
Davidson-Wilson Greenhouses
Ladoga Road Route 2
Crawfordsville IN 47933
Daylilies of Tomorrow (Love that name)
1656 N 2d
El Cajon, CA
619-447-4922
Daylilly World
P.O. Box 1612,
Sanford FL 32771
Peter De Jager Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 2010
South Hamilton MA 01982
Del's Japanese Maples
4691 River Road
Eugene OR 97404
De GIORGI CO. INC.
1529 North Saddle Creek Road
Omaha, NE 68104
Cat $1.25, PC, OVER
commercial and home grower quantities, emphasis esp. on cvs
for prairie states. Strong lists for perennials, rock-garden,
cabbage.
DOMINION SEED HOUSE
115 Guelph St.
Georgetown, Ontario
CANADA L7G 4A2
Cat $0, *Canadian Orders ONLY*; good veg and flower list,
many especially selected for earliness and cold-tolerance;
good supply and tool list.
DUTCH GARDENS INC. Good Reviews - 3
P.O. Box 200
Adelphia, NJ 07710
Phone: 908-780-2713
Fax: 908-780-7720
ECHO
17430 Durrance Road
North Fort Meyers, FL 33917
Cat $1, PC, OVER, SP: seeds & plants of underexploited but
important tropical foods
ED HUME SEEDS
PO Box 2450
Kent, WA 98032
Cat $0; veg. and orn. for cool-season growing in Pacific NW.
Evergreen Y.H. Enterprises
P.O. Box 17538
Anaheim, California 92817
catalog: $1
A 21-page catalog offering 16 pages of oriental vegetable
varieties, gardening books, cookbooks and sauces. Each
vegetable listed is accompanied by a description of its
use and planting hints. An especially useful feature inside
the back cover is a cross reference of oriental vegetable
names. For example, the asparagus bean is also known as
a yardlong bean, dow chai, dow gauk, chiang tou, kong tou,
jurkusasgemae, chinese long bean, goa bean, and winged bean.
Most seed packets are 0.95 with larger quantities available.
FARMER SEED & NURSEY CO. *
P.O. Box 129
Faribault, MN 55021
Cat $0, PC/CC/OC, OVER
FIELD'S (HENRY) SEED & NURSERY *+ Good Reviews -2 Bad Reviews - 0
407 Sycamore Street
Shenandoah, IA 51602
Cat $0, PC/CC; everything basic; folksy flavor.
FISCHER GREENHOUSES
609-927-3399
Linwood, NJ 08221
specializing in African Violets
FLOATING MOUNTAIN SEEDS
P.O. Box 1275
Port Angeles, WA 98362
Cat $1.50, PC/CC, OVER.
FLOWER AND HERB EXCHANGE
Rt. 3, Box 239
Decorah, Iowa 52101
FOX HILL FARM
PO Box 7
Parma, MI 49269
FOX HOLLOW HERBS
P.O. Box 148
McGrann, PA 16236
FRIENDS OF THE TREES
P.O. Box 1064
Tonasket, WA 98855
G. SEED CO.
PO Box 72
Tonasket, WA 98855
Cat $1; op veg, herb, orn; many heirlooms.
Gardens Alive
Natural Gardening Research Center
Highway 48, P.O.Box 149
Sunman, Indiana 47041
GARDEN CITY SEEDS *
1324 Red Crow Road
Victor, MT 59875-9713
Cat $2, PC, OVER
GARDEN IMPORT INC.
P.O. Box 760
Thornhill, ONT L3T 4A5
Canada
Cat $3, PC/CC, OVER (N.A. agents for Sutton Seeds of GB);
good bulb list as well as veg, flower; some British & European
cvs.
GARDENS ALIVE!
Natural Gardening Research Center
Hwy 48, P.O. Box 149
Sunman, IN 47041
Gardens Alive! has the best selection of integrated pest management
tools and organic lawn care items of any catalogue I receive. They have
excellent color pictures of pests and plant diseases and how to prevent
them.
Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Road
Burlington, VT 05401
(802) 863-1700
GAZE SEED CO.
PO Box 640
St. John's, Newfoundland A1C 5K8
CANADA
Cat $0; orn, veg, lawn grasses, trees, shrubs, good
selection of tools & supplies, incl. forks and hand plows.
GH ALTITUDE GARDENS
P.O. Box 4619
Ketchum, ID 83340
1-800-874-7333 (telephone)
Cat $3, PC/CC, OVER.
Regional seed company dedicated to making available seeds of
veg., herbs, wild flowers & native grasses adapted to short
season, high altitude climates around the world.
Gilbert H. Wild and Son, Inc.
692 Joplin Street
Sarcoxie, MO 64862-0338
(daylily specialists)
GLECKER'S SEEDSMEN
Metamora, OH 43540
Cat $0, PC, OVER, Min. $2
GOSSLER FARMS NURSERY
1200 Weaver Rd.
Springfield, OR 97478-9663
503-746-3922
$1.00
GURNEY SEED & NURSEY CO. *+
1224 Page Street
Yankton, SD 57079
Cat $0, PC/CC/OC
subzero roses; large stock of orn. & veg. cvs. (established
in 1866)
Harmony Farm Supply
3244 Gravenstein Hwy. North
Sebastopol, CA 95472
or:
P.O.Box 460
Graton, CA 95444
HARRIS MORAN SEED COMPANY
3670 Buffalo Road
Moreton Farm
Rochester, NY 14624
HARRIS SEEDS *
60 Saginaw Drive
Rochester, NY 14623
Cat $0, PC/CC also lawn seeds
HASTINGS - THE SOUTHERN GARDENER'S CATALOG
1036 White Street, SW
PO Box 115535
Atlanta, GA 30310-8535
1-800-334-1771 (IN GA 404-755-6580)
seeds, plants, water gardening, organics, gardening aids
(H.G.) HASTINGS AND COMPANY
Box 4274
Atlanta, GA 30302
Heirloom Gardens
P.O. Box 138
Guerneville, CA 95446
They carry a "collection of old time flowers; rare, culinary and
ornamental."
The 27-page catalog offers a wide selection of heirloom,
open pollinated vegetables. Two pages are given to flowers.
Any order over $10 gets you a free packet of Jefferson Giant
tomato seeds. The seed packets are all in the 0.79 - 1.09
price range. All vegetable varieties are said to be chosen
for flavor.
HEIRLOOM SEEDS
P.O. Box 245
West Elizabeth, Pennsylvania 15088-0245
HIGH ALTITUDE GARDENS
PO Box 4238
Ketchum, ID 83340
Cat $3; op veg, wildflowers, native grasses, organic
fertiilizers and pest controls; wildflower seed locally
collected. Strong list for Intermountain West.
Henry Fields and Company
SEE FIELD'S
HOLLAND WILDFLOWER FARM HS
Elkins, AR 72727
HORTICULTURAL ENTERPRISES (AU)
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, TX 75381-0082
Cat $0, PC. Large selection of chile pepper seed
SPENCER M. HOWARD ORCHID IMPORTS [CAT $.45+SASE]
11802 Huston St. [M.O. $25]
North Hollywood, CA 91607
(818) 762-8275
HUDSON (J.L), SEEDSMAN
P.O. Box 1058
Redwood City, CA 94064
Cat $1, PC, OVER
rarities, incl. veg from Zapotec Indians of Mexico; mostly for
serious, experienced gardeners
ED HUME SEEDS
PO Box 2450
Kent, WA 98032
Cat $0; veg. and orn. for cool-season growing in Pacific
NW.
INTERMOUNTAIN SEEDS
P.O. Box
Rexburg, ID 83440
Cat $0, PC. Veg., herb & flower seeds adapted to the cool
night temperatures & short growing season of the Intermountain
region
Inter-State Nurseries
P.O.Box 10
Louisiana, MO 63353-0010
1-800-325-4180 (central time)
FAX 1-314-754-5290
ISLAND SEED MAIL ORDER
PO Box 4278, Station A
Victoria, BC V8X 3X8
CANADA
Cat $2; good basic list for Pacific NW
J.W. Jung Seed Company
See Jung's
JACKSON AND PERKINS
Box 1028
Medford, OR 97501
mostly modern roses, a few other perennials; no seeds
JOHN SCHEEPERS, INC
P.O. Box 700
Bantam, CT 06750
203-567-0838
nice range of bulbs
JERRY HORNE RARE PLANTS [CAT SASE]
10195 S.W. 70th St. [M.O. $10]
Miami, FL 33173
(305) 270-1235
NO TELEPHONE ORDERS
JOHNNY'S SELECTED SEEDS *
Foss Hill Road
Albion, ME 04910
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER, SP: seeds for cool, short-season
areas, esp. veg.
JOHNSON SEED CO.
227 Ludwig Ave.
Dousman, WI 53118
Cat. $0; heirloom and modern veg. seeeed.
JUDE HERBS
Box 563-CJ
Huntington Station, NY 11746
JUNG (J.W.) SEED CO. *
335 South High Street
Randolph, WI 53957
Cat $0, PC/CC
KELLY NURSERIES
Dansville, NY 12237
KESTER WILD GAME FOOD NURSERIES
PO Box V
Omro, WI 54963
Cat $2; Seeds, bulbs for species favored as food and cover
by game species.
KITAZAWA SEED CO.
1748 Lane Avenue
Santa Clara, CA 95051
Cat $0; oriental veg and herb seeds.
KRIDER NURSERIES
PO Box 29
Middlebury, IN 46540
LAKELAND NURSERY SALES
Unique Merchandise Mart
Building 1
Hanover, PA
Cat $0; An amazing exercise in off-the-wall "common names"
and hype. Caution (and a large grain of salt) advised.
LANDRETH SEED CO. *
P.O. Box 6426
Baltimore, MD 21230
Cat $2, OVER. (established in 1784)
LAMB NURSERIES
E. 101 Sharp Ave.
Spokane, WA 99202
509-328-7956
free
LAURIE'S GARDEN
41886 McKenzie Highway
Springfield, OR 97478
503-896-3756
1 stamp
LAVAL SEEDS [=SEMENANCES LAVAL]
3505 Saint Martin West
[=3505 Boulevard St-Martin Ouest]
Ville de Laval, Que.
Canada H7T 1A2
Cat. $0, good list of veg, orn, houseplant seeds.
LE JARDIN DU GOURMET
West Danville, VT 05873
Gourmet veg. seeds.
LE MARCHE SEEDS INTERNATIONAL
Box 566
Dixon, CA 95620
Gourrmet veg. seeds.
LEDDEN (OROL) & SONS
P.O. Box 7
Sewell, NJ 08080-0007
Cat $0, PC/CC
cvs adapted for NE US; pasture, lawn, some heirlooms
A.M. Leonard, Inc.
P.O. Box 816
Piqua, OH 45356-0816
800-543-8955
Leonard is a supply house for professional nurseries and landscapers, so
they have a wide selection of tools, though some supplies are only
available in quantity.
Liberty Seed Company
PO Box 806
New Philadephia, OH 44663
216-364-1611
fax: 216-364-6415
interesting mix of veg and farm seeds, some flowers
LOGEE'S GREENHOUSES [CAT $3]
55 North St. [Refunable]
Danielson, CT 06269 [M.O. $15]
(203) 774-8038
LONG ISLAND SEED COMPANY
1368 Flanders Road
Flanders NY 11901
LOUISIANA NURSERY
Rt. 7, Box 43
Opelousas, LA 70570
318-948-3696
$3.50
MAY (EARL) SEED & NURSERY *+
208 North Elm Street
Shenandoah, IA 51603
1-800-831-4193 (telephone)
Cat $0, PC/CC
old, established seed and nursery with usual range of veg,
orn, trees and shrubs.
McCLURE & ZIMMERMAN
108 W. Winnebago
P.O. Box 368
Friesland, WI 53935
bulbs, esp. species and uncommon.
McFAYDEN SEEDS
PO Box 1800
Brandon, Manitoba R7A 6N4
Canada
Cat $0; good selection of cvs for colder climates; also
wine and beer-making supplies.
Mc CRORY'S SUNNY HILL HERB FARM
Star Route 3 Box 844
Eustis, FL 32726
Mellinger's, Inc.
2310 W. South Range Rd.
North Lima, OH 44452-9731
1-800-321-7444 (telephone)
216-549-9861
Fax: 216-549-3716
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER
nursery stock, house plants, tools, pots, soil mixes, etc.;
offers small quantities of commercial growers supplies that
can be otherwise difficult to find.
Messelaar Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 269
Ipswich, MA 01938
Meyer Seed Co.
600 South Caroline St.
Baltimore, MD 21231
Cat $0, PC/CC; specializes in seed for MD, northern VA.
Michigan Bulb Co. 10 Bad Reviews; 1 Good Reveiw
1950 Waldorf N.W.
Grand Rapids, MI 49550
Midwest Seed Growers, Inc.
505 Walnut St.
Kansas City, MO 64106
MILEAGER'S GARDENS
4838 Douglas Avenue
Racine, WI 53402-2498
1-800-669-9956
bulbs
J.E. Miller Nurseries, Inc.
5060 West Lake Road
Canandaigua, NY 14424
Miller-Bowie County Farmers Assn.
P.O. Box 1110
Texarkana, TX 75502
Mini-Roses
P.O. Box 4255, Sta. A
Dallas, TX 75208
Mission Bell Gardens
2778 West 5600 So.
Roy, UT 84067
MOHN'S INC
P.O. Box 2301
Atascadero, CA 93423
2 stamps
MOON MOUNTAIN WILDFLOWERS
P.O. Box 34
Morro Bay, CA 93442
Moonshine Gardens
P.O. Box 1019
Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423
Moosebell Flower, Fruit & Tree Co.
Rt. 1, Box 240
St. Francis, ME 04774
Mt. Leo Nursery
P.O. Box 135
McMinnville, TN 37110
Mountain Mist Nursery
23561 Vaughn Rd.
Veneta, OR 97487
MOUNTAIN SEED & NURSERY
P.O. Box 9107
Moscow, ID
Cat $1 refundable, PC/CC, OVER, SP: seeds for cold short-
season areas
Mountain Valley Seeds & Nursery
1798 N 1200 E.
Logan, UT 84321
Mowbray Gardens
3318 Mowbray Lane
Cincinnati, OH 45226
Mums by Paschke
11286 East Main Rd.
North East, PA 16428
Musser Forests, Inc.
P.O. Box 340 or S-91 M
Indiana, PA 15710-0340
412-465-5685
fax: 412-465-9893
trees, esp. seedlings for reforestation
Nationwide Seed & Supply
4801 Fegenbush Lane
Louisville, KY 40228
Native Seed Foundation
Star Route
Moyie Springs, ID 83845
Native Seeds, Inc.
14590 Triadelphia Mill Rd.
Dayton, MD 21306
NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH
3950 W. New York Drive
Tucson, AZ 85745
Cat $1; 200+ cvs of vegetable seed adapted to desert SW;
organized by an ethnobotanist, so strong representation of
seeds from native peoples (landraces). Strong book section.
E. B. Nauman, Nurseryman
688 St. Davids Ln
Schenectady NY 12309
New Mexico Desert Garden
10231 Belnap NW
Albuquerque NM 87114
The New Peony Farm
P.O. Box 18105
St. Paul MN 55118
New York State Fruit Testing Coop. Assn
P.O. Box 462
Geneva NY 14456
Nichols Garden Nursery Inc.
1190 No. Pacific Highway
Albany OR 97321
The subtitle on the front of their 72 page catalog is "herbs
and rare seeds". Five pages of herb seeds and three pages of
herb plants available certainly bear out the first half of this,
and they do offer many rare and unusual seeds as well as
hybrids, heirlooms and popular favorite open-pollinated
varieties. As befits their location, they indicate which
varieties do well in short and variable season areas.
Other features include an oriental vegetable section,
recipes scattered throughout the catalog, a "new and
unusual" vegetable section, six pages of flowers and
wildflowers, gardening and cooking tools, spices and
herbal teas, books, and homebrew and winemaking supplies.
The seed prices are in the 0.85 - 1.50 range depending
of course on rarity, supply, etc. I enjoyed this catalog
very much and, indeed, had an order from it ready about
half an hour after I received it in the mail.
NOEL'S GARDEN SEEDS
R.D. #2K
Oxford, NY 13830
Cat SASE, PC, SP: o.p. veg. for home gardeners in the Northeast.
Nolin River Nut Tree Nursery
797 Port Wooden Rd.
Upton KY 42784
Nor'East Miniature Roses
58 Hammond St.
Rowley, MA 01969
North American Wildflowers
38 Hillside Ave.
Atlantic Highlands NJ 07716
Northwoods Nursery
28696 S. Cramer Rd.
Molalla OR 97038
(503) 651-3737
Nourse Farms Inc.
RFD, Box 485
South Deerfield MA 01373
Nuccio's Nurseries
P.O. Box 6160
Altadena CA 91001
Oak Hill Gardens Good recomemdation for Orchids
P.O. Box 25
Dundee IL 60118-0025
(708) 428-8500
Oakes Daylillies
Monday Road Rt. 4
Corryton TN 37721
615-689-3036
free
Oakwood Daffodils
2330 W. Bertrand Rd.
Niles MI 49120
Oikos
721 N. Fletcher
Kalamazoo MI 49007-3077
OLDS SEED CO. *
P.O. Box 7790
Madison, WI 53707
Cat $2.50 refundable, PC, OVER
ONTARIO SEED CO, LTD
Box 144
Waterloo, Ont.
Canada N2J 3Z9
Orol Ledden & Sons, Inc.
See: Ledden
Orchids Bountiful
828 W. 3800 South
Bountiful UT 84010
Orchids Royale
P.O. Box 1289
Carpenteria CA 93013
Oregon Exotics
1065 Messinger Rd
Grants Pass, OR 97527
Oregon Miniature Roses
8285 SW 185th Ave.
Beaverton OR 97007
Orgel's Orchids
18950 S.W. 136th St., RR 2
Miami FL 33187
Richard Owen Nursery
2209 E. Oakland St.
Bloomington IL 61701
Owens Orchids
P.O. Box 365
Pisgah Forest NC 28768-0365
Pacific Berry Works
P.O. Box 54
Bow WA 98232
PAGE SEED CO.
P.O. Box 158
Greene, NY 13778
Cat $0, PC
Panda Products
P.O. Box 104
Fulton CA 95434
Park Seed Co. Inc. *+
P.O. Box 46
Cokesbury Roa
Greenwood SC 29648-0046
Cat $0, PC/CC
PEACE SEEDS
2385 S.E. Thompson St.
Corvallis, OR 97333
Cat $3.50, PC/OC, OVER
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
P.O.Box 2209
Grass Valley, CA 95945
Peekskill Nurseries
Shrub Oak NY 10588
The Pepper Gal
10536 119th Ave. N.
Largo FL 33543
Cat $0, PC Mails to US & Canada only. Seeds of over 200
cultivars of hot, sweet & ornamental peppers.
Peter Pauls Nurseries
RD #2
Canandaigua NY 14424
Piedmont Plant Co.
P.O. Box 424
Albany GA 31703
Pinetree Garden Seeds
R.R. 1, Box 397
New Gloucester ME 04260
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER
Good seeds (many op) in small packets at very reasonable
prices; small selection of bulbs; pretty good book and tool
selection.
The Plant Shop's Botanical Gardens
18007 Topham St.
Reseda CA 91335
Pony Creek Nursery
Tilleda WI 54978
Porter & Son
P.O. Box 104
Stephensville TX 76401-0104
Cat $0, good veg. list adapted to TX, lesser flower list.
POWELL'S GARDENS
Rt. 3,Box 21
Princeton, NC 27569
919-936-4421
$1.50
Protea Gardens of Maui
R.R. 2 Box 389
Kula, Maui, HI 96790
Quailtree Nursery
11110 Harlan Rd.
Eddyville OR 97343
Quality Dutch Bulbs
P.O. Box 225
Hillsdale NJ 07642
RAFAL SPICE CO
2521 Russell St. Dept FC
Detroit, MI 48207
RAINBOW GARDENS
1444 E. Taylor Street
Vista, CA 92084
Cat $2; Epiphyllums and other succulents; good book list
Raintree Nursery
391 Butts Road
Morton WA 98356
Rayner Bros.
P.O. Box 1617
Salisbury MD 21801
Reasoner's
P.O. Box 1881
Oneco FL 33558
REATH'S NURSERY
P.O.Box 512
100 Central Boulevard
Vulcan, MI 49892
$1.00
REDWOOD CITY SEED CO.
PO Box 361
Redwood City, CA 94064
Cat. $1; op veg, herb, dye plants
Richters
Canada's Herb Specialists
Box 26
Goldwood, Ontario
Canada L0C 1A0
Phone: (416) 640-6677
FAX: (416) 640-6641
Cat $2.50 Can, $4 US; extensive herb list, but also some
veg and "useful plants"; organic pest controls and beneficial
insects for Canadian shipment only.
Rider Nurseries
Rt. 2 Box 90A
Farmington IA 52626
Riverbend Orchids
14220 Lorraine Rd.
Biloxie, MS 39532
RONNINGER'S SEED POTATOES
Star Route
Moyie Springs, ID 83845
The Rose Garden & Mini Rose Nursery
P.O. Box 560
Cross Hill SC 29332-0560
Rosehill Farm
Gregg Neck Road
Dalena MD 21635
Roses By Fred Edmonds
6235 S. W. Kahle Rd.
Wilsonville OR 97070
Roses of Yesterday and Today
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
(408) 724-3537
Roswell Seed Co.
P.O. Box 725
Roswell NM 88201
Rupp Seeds, Inc.
5-17919 County Road 13
Wauseon OH 45367
S&H Organic Acres
P.O. Box 757, 12125 Red Hills Rd.
Newburg, OR 97132
St. Lawrence Nurseries
R.D. 2, Route 345, Potsdam-Madrid Rd.
Potsdam NY 13676
Santa Barbara Orchid Estate
1250 Orchid Drive
Santa Barbara CA 93111
Savage Farms Nursery
P.O. Box 125
McMinnville TN 37110
John Scheepers Inc.
63 Wall Street
New York NY 10005
S. Scherer & Sons
104 Waterside Road
Northport NY 11768
Schulz Cactus Gardens
1095 Easy St.
Morgan Hill CA 95037
F. W. Schumacher Co.
36 Spring Hill Road
Sandwich MA 02563-1023
Sea Breeze Orchids
P.O. Box 1416
Bayville NY 11709
Seagulls Landing Orchids
P.O. Box 388
Glen Head NY 11545
Seedway, Inc.
P.O. Box 250
Hall NY 14463-0250
SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE
Rt. 3, Box 239
Decorah, Iowa 52101
SEED SETS
Dept. F
1130 Tetherow Rd
Williams, OR 97544
SEEDS BLUM
Idaho City Stage
Boise, ID 83706
Cat $3, PC, OVER, SP: heirloom veg & flowers, listing over
1,000 varieties.
SEEDWAY, INC
Box 250
Hall, NY 14463
Sequoia Nursery-Moore Miniature Nurseries
2519 East Nobel Ave.
Visalia CA 93277
SHADY MUSH HERB NURSERY
Rt. 2
Surrett Cove Td.
Leicester, NC 28748
Shanti Bithi Nursery
3047 High Ridge Road
Stamford CT 06903
SHEPHERDS GARDEN SEEDS
7389 West Zayante Rd.
Felton, CA 95018
SHUMWAY, R.H.
P.O. Box 777
Rockford, IL 61105
R.H. SHUMWAY'S
PO Box 1
Granitevillle, SC 29829
412-465-5685
fax: 412-465-9893
Seeds, including wholesale and bulk
Siegers Seed Co.
245 Imlay City Rd.
Imlay City MI 48444
SILVER LAKE SEEDS
PO Box 4118, Suite E
Highland Park, NJ 08904,
Skyblue Nurseries
P.O. Box 18061
St. Paul MN 55118-0061
Smith Nursery Co.
P.O. Box 515
Charles City IA 50616
Smith and Hawken Bulb Book
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, CA 94941
415-383-2000
Ask for 'Wilma Kay'for advice. No seeds, but bulbs, good tools,
garden furbelows. Mostly expensive stuff for trendy gardeners, but they
do have English tools.
Soergel Greenhouses
2573 Brandt School Rd.
Wexford PA 15090
Solomon Daylillies
105 County Club Rd.
Newport News VA 23606
Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery
4395 Westside Road
Healdsburg CA 95448
707-433-6420
South Florida Seed Supply
16361 Norris Road
Loxahatchee FL 33470
SOUTHERN EXPOSURE SEED EXCHANGE
P.O. Box 158
North Garden, VA 22959
SOUTHERN SEEDS
P.O. Box 2091
Melbourne, FL 32902
1-800-356-1631
Cat $1, PC, OVER, SP: o.p. veg. for tropical & subtropical
areas. Also banana corms, papaya seed & chayote squash fruits
for planting.
Southmeadow Fruit Gardens
15310 Red Arrow Highway
Lakeside MI 49116
Specialty Seeds
P.O. Box 842
Lompoc CA 93436
SPRING HILL
110 W. Elm St.
Tipp City, OH 45371
309-691-4616
mostly flowers
Spring Hill Nurseries Co.
P.O. Box 1758
Peoria IL 61656
Square Root Nursery
4764 Deuel Rd.
Canandaigua NY 14424
Squaw Mountain Gardens
36212 S.E. Squaw Mtn. Road
Estacada OR 97023
Stanley & Sons Nursery, Inc.
11740 S.E. Orient Dr.
Boring OR 97009
Stark Bro's Nurseries & Orchards Co.
Highway 54 West
Louisiana MO 63353-0010
Stocking Rose Nursery
785 N. Capitol Ave.
San Jose CA 95133
Stokes Seed Co.
P.O. Box 548
Buffalo NY 14240
Cat $0, PC/CC, OVER
Sunnyslope Gardens
8638 Huntington Dr.
San Gabriel CA 91775
SUNRISE ENTERPRISES
P.O. Box 10058
Elmwood, CT 06110
Sunshine Caladium Farms
P.O. Box 905
Sebring FL 33870
Sunswept Laboratories
P.O. Box 1913
Studio City CA 91604
SUTTON SEEDS
Hele Road
Torquay
Devon, TQ2 7QJ
ENGLAND
Cat $0; UK equivalent of Burpees; good selection of "old
fashioned flowers" and rock garden species.
T&T SEEDS
PO Box 1710
Winnipeg, Manitoba R3C 3P6
Canada
Cat $1; cvs adapted esp. for cold prairies and plains region.
TAYLORS HERB GARDENS INC
1535 Lone Oak Rd
Vista, CA 92083
Territorial Seed Co.
P.O. Box 27
Lorane OR 97451
Thomasville Nurseries
P.O. Box 7
Thomasville GA 31799-0007
Thompson & Morgan
P.O. Box 1308
Jackson, NJ 08527 or
Box 1308, Dept SP6
Jackson, NJ 08527
Cat $0; amazing (by US standards) selection of veg, orn.,
greenhouse species; US arm of British firm. Beginners may
want the catalog just to ogle, but many of the species are not
for novices.
Tillinghast Seed Co.
P.O. Box 738
La Conner WA 98257
TINMOUTH CHANNEL FARM
PO Box 428B
Tinmouth, VT 05773
Tiny Petals Nursery
489 Minot Ave
Chula Vista CA 92010
Tomato Growers Supply Co.
P.O. Box 2237
Fort Myers FL 33902
Remarkable variety of tomato and pepper seeds, incl. both hybrids and
heirloom varieties. (185 tomato cultivars)
The Tomato Seed Company, Inc.
P.O. Box 323
Metuchen NJ 08840
Tradewinds Nursery
P.O. Box 70
Calpella CA 95418
Trans Pacific Nursery
29870 Mill Creek Rd.
Sheridan OR 97378
Transplant Nursery
Parketown Road
Lavonia GA 30553
Tripple Brook Farm
37 Middle Road
Southampton MA 01073
Tropical Imports
43714 Road 415
Coarsegold CA 93614
TROPICAL SEEDS
P.O. Box 11122
Honolulu, HI 96828
Cat $1 refundable, PC, OVER. Seeds of exotic tropical
flowering trees, palms, papayas, Maui onions. Also veg.
cultivars developed at Univ. of Hawaii.
Tsang & Ma
P.O. Box 294
Belmont CA 94002
Cat $0; oriental herbs, veg, cooking supplies.
TWILLEY SEED CO.
PO Box 65
Trevose, PA 19047
Cat $0; strongest in hybrid veg. seeds for every region.
TyTy Plantation
P.O. Box 159
TyTy, GA 31795
UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII SEED PROGRAM
Department of Horticulture
3190 Maile Way, Room 112
Honolulu, HI 96822
Cat $0, PC, OVER. Veg. & fruit cultivars developed at the
Univ. of Hawaii for tropical areas.
Valley Creek Nursery
P.O. Box 364
Three Oaks MI 49128
K. Van Bourgondien & Sons, Inc. Wholesale Qtys Good Review - 1
245 Farmingdale Rd. Bad - 2
P.O. Box A
Babylon NY 11702
The phone number is 800-873-9444.
Van Engelen Inc.
307 Maple St.
Litchfield CT 06759
VanWell Nursery Inc.
P.O. Box 1339
Wenatchee WA 98801
Veldheer Tulip Gardens
12755 Quincy St.
Holland MI 49424
Vermont Bean Seed Co.
Garden Lane
Fair Haven VT 05743
heirloom beans, and modern hybrid veg.
Vermont Wildflower Farm
Route 7
Charlotte VT 05445
VESEY'S SEEDS
York P.E.I.
Canada COA 1PO
MARY WALKER BULB CO.
Box 256
Omega, GA 31775
Wavecrest Nursery & Landscaping Co.
2509 Lakeshore Dr.
Fennville MI 49408
Waynesboro Nurseries
P.O. Box 987, Route 664
Waynesboro VA 22980
WAYSIDE GARDENS
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
1-800-845-1124
bulbs, perennials, shrubs, trees, roses
WEEKS (CHRISTOPHER E.) PEPPERS
P.O. Box 3207
Kill Devil Hills, NC 27498
Cat $0, PC, SP: hot peppers
WELL-SWEEP HERB FARM
317 Mr. Bethel Rd.
Port Murray, NJ. 07865
Ken West Orchids
P.O. Box 1332
Pahoa HI 96778
Whistling Wings Farms Inc.
427 West Street
Biddeford ME 04005
WHITE FLOWER FARM
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
1-800-888-7756
Cat $5, CC, PC, SP: bulbs, perennials, shrubs, trees
catalogs are excellent references, good reading!
WILD AND CRAZY SEED CO
PO Box 895
Durango, CO 81302
WILDFLOWER PATCH
442CJ Brookside
Walnut Port, PA 18088
Gildbert H. Wild & Son Inc.
P.O. Box 338
1112 Joplin St.
Sarcoxie, MO 64862-0338A
417-548-3514 or 351
Wilk Orchid Specialists
P.O. Box 1177 45-212 Nohonani Pl.
Kaneohe HI 96744
Willhite Seed Co.
P.O. Box 23
Poolville TX 76076
Nancy Wilson Species & Miniature Narcissus
571 Woodmont Ave.
Berkeley CA 94708
Wilton's Organic Seed Potatoes
P.O. Box 28
Aspen CO 81612
Womack Nursery Co.
Rt. 1, Box 80
DeLeon TX 76444
Wright Iris Nursery
6583 Pacheco Pass Highway
Gilroy CA 95020
Wyatt-Quarles Seed Co.
P.O. Box 739
Garner, NC 27529
SP: SE US regional cvs.
(Dr.) YOO FARM
PO Box 290
College Park, MD 20740
Cat $0; oriental veg. seeds and Japanese mushroom spawn.
Good cultural information.
Article 20227 of rec.gardens:
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Tomato problems FAQL
Message-ID: <1993Jul22.171936.15049@iscsvax.uni.edu>
Date: 22 Jul 93 23:19:36 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 339
Here's a first draft of a tomato disease FAQ, with "cures"
restricted to "organic" (sensu lato) means. As always, questions,
comments, additions, brickbats, etc., should be sent to me.
Kay Klier klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
_________________
Common tomato diseases and problems
General comments: there are many cultivars that are resistant to
common tomato problems: often after a name you'll see a series
of letters like "VFFNT", which means this cultivar is resistant
to verticillium wilt, fusarium races 1 & 2, nematodes, and
tobacco mosaic virus. These resistant cultivars are good choices
if you must grow tomatoes in the same area year after year. If
you can, rotate growing areas every 3 years, and don't grow
related crops (eggplant, potato, pepper, in the same areas in
your rotation).
Practice good sanitation. Keep the weeds out, the rotten
tomatoes and old plants picked up and composted, etc. If you
smoke tobacco, both you and your tomatoes will be better off if
you quit (tobacco mosaic virus is a major problem for the
tomatoes), but if you must smoke or chew tobacco, wash your hands
thoroughly before handling tomato plants.
Finally, grow several cultivars of tomatoes. When you don't put
all your eggs in one genetic basket, you stand a much better
chance of getting a good harvest.
Insects:
Colorado Potato Beetles:
Oval, hard-shelled adult beetle is about 1 cm (3/8") long, with
alternating black and yellow stripes on wing case. Larvae are
sluggish, red, humpbacked grubs with two rows of black spots on
each side of the body. Foliage feeders, may strip plants if
population is large. Control by 1ft of loose mulch under plants,
interplanting with flax, marigolds, garlic, snap or bush beans.
Eggplant and black nightshade (Solanum ptycanthemum = S. nigrum
of American authors) are favored foods and can be used as trap or
lure crops. Handpick adults and crush yellow eggs found on
underside of leaves of tomatoes. Other controls: Bacillus
thuringensis var. San Diego, Thripobius semiluteus, pyrethrins,
or rotenone/pyrethrin mixtures.
Corn earworm (=Tomato fruitworm, bollworm):
More of a pest in the south... 3.5 cm (1.75 ") long green, brown
or pink moth caterpillar with light stripes along sides and back.
Eats holes in fruits and buds. Handpicking or rotenone for
control, or pheromone traps, Bacillus thuringensis, ryania, or
insecticidal oils.
Cutworms:
Several species, usually gray or brownish grubs up to 3 cm (1.5")
long. Mainly a spring problem. Control: Clean cultivations,
collars of plastic, tin, juice cans, or paper wrapped around stem
at planting. Bacillus thuringensis.
European Corn Borer:
Occasional pest. Moves to tomatoes if nearby corn dies.
Flea beetles:
Many species, most notable for leaving small "pepper holes" in
leaves. Garlic spray reputed to control the beetles. I've never
had major damage from them.
Psyllid yellows:
A disease caused by feeding of tomato or potato psyllid nymphs,
due to a toxin released in feeding. These look like fringed
scales that change from yellow to orange to green. Older leaves
thicken and roll upward at the base; veins may turn purplish.
Younger leaves may curl. Plants may be dwarfed, stems and
petioles may be skinny. Control by removing ground cherry and
other solanaceous weeds.
Tobacco Hornworm:
Similar to tomato hornworm, but green and black horn. Same
controls.
Tomato Hornworm:
Larvae of a species of Sphinx moth. Green caterpillar, to 6 cm
(4") long, with white diagonal side stripes and a prominent red
horn on the head. Handpick. Bacillus thuringensis will kill
hornworms, but I do not recommend this: several species of Sphinx
are pollinators of endangered native orchids, or are endangered
themselves Braconid wasp parasites are becoming commercially
available, again, I feel these should not be used because they
are non-selective killers. Handpicking is easy and effective, or
you can make exclosures of netting around plants.
Dill makes a good trap crop. Rotenone and Trichograma wasps are
other controls.
Whitefly:
Tiny, white flying insects that fly up to make a cloud when an
infested plant is disturbed. Control: Insecticidal soaps,
Encarsia formosa (a parasite), yellow sticky traps, row covers,
insecticidal oils, or rotenone/pyrethrin mixtures. (You need at
least 300 sq inches of sticky trap per 8 tomato plants.)
Physiological Problems
("diseases" caused by culture and environment):
Blossom drop:
Usually caused by dry soils, and drying winds, but may be caused
by sudden cold spells, heavy rains, N overdose, or heavy
infections by bacteria or fungi.
Blossom end rot:
See Calcium deficiency below. End of fruit away from stem gets
soft, mushy. Generally caused by a combination of drought and
drown water availability, calcium mobilization problems. Cure:
mulch to smooth out soil water availability; water in drought
periods. See also Calcium deficiency below.
Fruit crack:
Surface cracks in fruits near stem end caused by rapid growth
during periods of good moisture and high temperatures. Cracks
can radiate around stem or encircle "shoulders" of tomato. May
vary in depth. No cure, but even moisture (mulch!) will help
prevent periods of slow and rapid growth. Pick fruits with
rapidly developing cracks early (not fully reddened) to prevent
Early Blight and other fruit rots.
Leaf roll:
Rolling begins on lower leaves and proceeds upwards until most
leaves are affected. Plants may lose leaves, particularly on
staked plants. Seems to be caused by heavy pruning or deep,
close cultivation.
Sunscald:
Occurs when green tomatoes are exposed to sun, most commonly in
hot, dry weather on plants with leaf spot diseases or other
defoliation.
Boron deficiency:
Blackened areas at tip of stem, which is stunted. Abnormally
bushy looking plants. Terminal shoots curl, yellow and die.
Fruit of severely affected plants may darken and die in patchy
patterns. Cure: a handful of borax (not boraxo soap!) worked
into the soil around each plant.
Calcium deficiency:
Thick woody stems, slow growth, yellow upper leaves (not yellow
lower leaves seen in N, P or K deficiency), weak, flabby plants.
Blossom end rot of fruit. Cure: Correct Ca/Mg balance,
(dolomitic
limestone and a little Epsom salts help), mulch to retard plant
water fluctuations that seem to bring on blossom end rot.
Copper deficiency:
Stunted root and shoot growth, blue-green curled, flabby leaves,
few or no flowers. Manure is an easy cure; copper salts can be
used with great caution (in too high a quantity, they can kill
plants.) Bordeaux mixture applied at fungicidal rates will work.
Iron deficiency:
Spotted white areas on new leaves and upper parts of stem. New
shoots may die if severely deficient. Apply chelated iron, dried
blood, manure, or sewage sludge.
Manganese deficiency:
Very slow growth; light green leaves with dead patches ringed in
yellow. Few flowers or fruit. Use manure.
Nitrogen deficiency:
Very slow growth of plants, followed by progressive pale green
color moving from tip and young leaves back to more mature
leaves. Leaves are small, thin, perhaps with purple veins.
Stems eventually brown and dry off. Flower buds yellow and drop.
Apply N immediately.
Too much nitrogen:
Rapid growth, with many bright, light green leaves; poor
flowering and fruiting. Stop fertilizing immediately with N, add
P and K.
Phosphorus deficiency:
Slow growth, purple tinged small leaves that feel fibrous. Fruit
set delayed. Add P.
Zinc deficiency:
Very long, narrow, yellowed leaves mottled with dead spots.
Manure is simplest cure.
Fungus diseases
Most can be treated with Bordeaux Mixture, Kocide micronized
copper, copper dust, and sulfur sprays and dusts.
Anthracnose:
Primarily affects ripe fruit, causes a slight, sunken spot rot
(early symptoms are a round sunken spot on the fruit skin, about
2-4 mm diameter). Most prominent in hot Augusts with high temps
and humidity or heavy dews. Fungus can overwinter on vines, or
can be seedborne. Rotations and treating seeds with 122oF water
for 15 minutes can help control. Also Bordeaux mixture.
Botrytis fruit rot:
More of a problem with greenhouse tomatoes when grown cool in
humid conditions. "Water soaked" spots in the fruit that enlarge
rapidly and become covered with powdery grey spores. Raise heat,
reduce humidity.
Buckeye rot:
Large, dark brown soft spots on greenhouse fruits. Mulch plants,
sterilize soils.
Damping off:
Seedlings suddenly "pinch in" at the soil line and keel over.
Well drained, sterile soil for sowing is the key to control.
Early blight:
Irregular brown spots with a "bullseye" pattern on lower leaves
of plants. Spots enlarge to 4-9 mm (0.25 - 0.5"), then coalesce.
Affected leaves turn brown, drop. Stem spotting and stem
girdling or fruit rot (near stem) may occur late in season.
Rotation and good sanitation practices (including removing
horsenettle, jimsonweed, groundcherry and nightshade) are
recommended controls. Also Bordeaux mixture.
Fusarium wilt: ("yellows")
One of the most common and damaging diseases. Generally not
damaging unless soil and air temperatures are high in much of the
season. Slight yellowing of a single leaf, or slight wilting of
the lower leaves is followed by an overall yellowing. Brown
discoloration of vascular tissues in stem or petioles of wilted
leaves is common. Choose Fusarium resistant cultivars, grow in
clean soil, rotate crops, destroy vines at end of the summer.
Nematode infection increases risk of fusarium infection.
Ghost Spot:
Same fungus as Gray mold. Small whitish rings, 1-3 mm diameter,
on green tomatoes. Warmer, drier conditions control.
Gray Leaf Spot:
More common in SE states. Also on peppers, eggplants, ground
cherries, etc. Dark brown spots on underside of leaves in warm,
humid weather. Affected leaves turn yellow, wither, drop.
Serious infections will keep plants from fruiting. Bordeaux
mixture will treat.
Gray Mold:
Heavy gray growth on dead leaves or stems at the base of the
plants. Tan markings appear on stems, gray spots on live leaves,
and gray or yellow soft spots on the fruits. Usually a spring
disease that will let up in higher temperatures or lower
humidities.
Late Blight:
Severe defoliation following irregular greenish-black,
watersoaked spots on older leaves. In humid weather, there may
be a white, downy growth on spots. Plants may look "frosted".
Fruits can be affected at any stage; lesions are large, dark,
firm, rough patches. Most common at night temperatures of 40-
60ooF, day temps of 70-80. May spread from infected potato
plants. Bordeaux mixture will treat.
Leaf Mold:
Usually greenhouse disease, but sometimes outdoors. White spots
appear on surface of older leaves, enlarging and yellowing. With
humidity, patches become velvety and olive-green. Control with
good ventilation, temperatures > 60oF.
Septoria leaf spot (Septoria blight):
Common in Atlantic, Central states, and Southern Plains states.
Most severe in rainy seasons, crowded patches. Usually not seen
before mid-July. Older leaves have many, small, watersoaked
spots, usually 1-2mm diameter. Leaves may drop, and progressive
defoliation may occur. Clean cultivation, clean up at the end of
season, and staying out of wet tomato patches (you can spread the
spores) help. Can be treated with Bordeaux mixture.
Soil rot fungus:
Also a Pythium rot, like damping off. Slightly sunken brown
spots on fruit, outlined with concentric rings. Spots enlarge,
and may break open. Keep tomato vines and fruits off soil.
Spotted wilt:
Numerous small, dark, circular dead spots on younger leaves.
Stem tips may be dark streaked and die back. May kill plants;
survivors will have yellowish leaves and fruits with concentric,
circular marks. Disease can be shared with lettuce, tomato,
celery, spinach, peppers and potatoes.
Bacterial diseases
Bacterial canker:
Usually first symptoms are wilting of margins of lower leaves,
often on only one side of leaf; leaves curl upward, turn brown,
wither and die. Petioles remain attached to stem, which helps
distinguish this from Fusarium and Verticillium wilts. Plants
may have a single affected shoot, though dying will continence up
the stem, and pith becomes yellow and mealy. Open stem cankers
develop. Fruit may be affected with small raised, white dots 2-4
mm diameter, which later become white birdseyes with brown
centers. Fruit may be stunted or deformed. This is a seedborne
disease, commonest in home-saved or uninspected seed. Can be
prevented by a 25 min seed soak in 122oF water, or fermenting the
seeds in crushed tomato pulp 96 hours, or soaking in 50-50
mixture of vinegar and water for 24 hours.
Bacterial spot:
Common in rainy seasons. Small dark, greasy-looking leaf spots
may be followed by flower drop and/or water-soaked spots 2-4 mm
diameter on young green fruits. Soil borne disease.
Bacterial wilt:
Commonest in southern states. Rapid wilting and death of entire
plant without yellowing or spotting of leaves. Stem cross-
sections of wilted plants will be dark, watersoaked and have a
grayish exudate when squeezed. Institute 5 year rotations,
avoiding including pepper, tobacco, eggplant or potatoes in
rotation. Remove affected plants as soon as problem is noticed.
Virus diseases:
Curly top: (western yellow blight)
Caused by the same virus as curly top of sugar beets. Seems to
be carried by beet leafhopper. Main symptoms are curling and
twisting of leaves of affected plants. Prevention is planting at
times that may avoid high leafhopper populations, or excluding
insects with row covers.
Mosaics:
Common mosaic, tobacco mosaic, Aucuba mosaic and cucumber mosaic
can all infect tomatoes. Mottles areas of light and dark green
on leaves, sometimes appearing puckered, or malformation of
leaflets, or yellow mottling of leaves, or stunted yellow, bushy
plants can be seen with these diseases. Control by avoiding
handling plants (esp. by people who handle tobacco), removing
perennial weeds, esp. pokeweed, catnip and milkweeds. Aphids can
transmit mosaic viruses. Seedlings can be dipped or sprayed
with milk at least twice if they are suspected of being infected.
OK, folks, what have I forgotten?
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 21:48:09 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:43:23 -0800
From: Brian Lo
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Turnips
TURNIPS
Brassica rapa (Rapifera Group)
VARIETIES (approximately 60 days for roots, 30 days for greens)
Purple Top White Globe; hybrids for trial: Royal Globe II Hybrid,
Royal Crown; all white hybrids for trial: Tokyo Cross, White Lady. Club
root resistant, for trial: York.
Greens: Shogoin, Seven Top, Topper, All Top (see seperate file on
turnip greens).
SEED COMPANIES
Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Elsoms Seeds Ltd. Spalding, Lincolnshire, England PE11 1QG
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Northrup King Co. Vegetable Seed Group, POB 1827, Gilroy, CA 95021
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sakata Seed America Inc. Morgan Hill, CA
Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
SOIL
Use deep loam or sandy loam soil types that have good drainage. It is
desirable to have a good amount of organic matter in the soil as well.
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Turnip seed numbers approximately 192,000 per pound. Use hot-water and
fungicide treated seed to protect against several serious seed borne diseases.
Hot water seed treatments are very specific (122 F exactly, for 25 to 30
minutes; the wet seed then quickly cooled and dried). The seed treatments are
best done by the seed company, and can usually be provided upon request.
PLANTING AND SPACINGS
For summer harvest plant as early in the spring as possible. For later
harvests plant up to the 7th of June. Seed 1 to 2 lbs seed/acre at a depth of
1/2 to l in. Space rows 1-3 ft. apart and plants within the row 2-6 inches
apart. Turnip seed is easy to precision plant and germinates readily. No
pelleting is necessary with precision planters. When these planters are used,
adjust the seeding rate considering plant stand desired, seed count per pound
and germination percentage.
FERTILIZER
A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The
following recommendations are general guidelines.
Manure - If manure is available, apply the year before and not in the
year of seeding.
At time of seeding, band 2 in. to the side of the seed, at a depth of 2
inches below the seed, the following:
Nitrogen: 50-75 (N) lb./acre
Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb./acre
Potash: 80-150 (K2 O) lb./acre
Boron: Broadcast and disc in 2-4 lb./acre of boron prior to planting.
If additional boron is required, use Solubor or Borospray at l/2 to l lb./acre
when turnips are l in. in diameter.
IRRIGATION
Water uniformly for best shape and quality. Turnips may require from 8-
12 inches of water depending on planting date, seasonal variation and variety.
Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.
HARVESTING, HANDLING, AND STORAGE
Turnip yields are approximately 300 cwt./acre. Handle roots with care
during harvest to reduce injury and rots during storage. Store only healthy
roots as indicated below.
STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):
Store turnips at 32 F and 95% relative humidity. Topped turnips require
storage conditions similar to those for topped carrots. Turnips in good
condition can be expected to keep 4 to 5 months at 32 F and high relative
humidity. At higher temperatures (40 F and above) decay will develop much
more rapidly than at 32 f. Injured or bruised turnips should not be stored.
Turnips should be stored in slatted crates or bins, and good air circulation
around containers should be provided.
Packaging turnips in perforated plastic bags helps keep the humidity
high around the roots during marketing and reduces shriveling.
Dipping turnips in hot melted paraffin was gives a glossy appearance and
is of some value in reducing moisture loss during handling. However, waxing
is primarily to aid in marketing and is not recommended before long-term
storage.
PACKAGING
Topped turnips are commonly packaged in 25 lb. film bags; 50 lb. film
and mesh bags; or 24 pound cartons holding 24 film bags, 1 pound each.
PEST CONTROL FOR TURNIPS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY
Weed suppression in crucifers begins by rotating crops that involve different
weed control practices or herbicides to disrupt weed life cycles. Row
spacings and plant densities vary to achieve head size depending on the market
and to suppress weeds. Early season weed control comprises application of an
herbicide and/or cultivation(s).
______________________________________________________________________________
STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.
1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve
maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures
and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.
2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed
will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.
3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the
field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed
weeds.
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming
Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
weeds, but not consume them with flame.
______________________________________________________________________________
PREEMERGENCE
DCPA 4.5 to 9 lb ai/A
Dacthal
Performs erratically west of Cascades. Elsewhere, apply immediately
after seeding or transplanting. Results can be improved if rainfall or
overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application. Consult label
for planting sensitive crops within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT CONTROL
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS ARE
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids including malathion - 2 lb
Cabbage aphid
Brevicoryne brassicae diazinon - 0.5 lb
Turnip aphid
Hyadaphis pseudobrassicae Phosdrin - 0.25 lb
Both species closely resemble Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
each other. Gray, mealy plant
lice form colonies. dimethoate - 0.25 lb
Dibrom - 1 to 1.5 lb
Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles, including diazinon - 0.5 lb
Phyllotreta cruciferae
methoxychlor - 2.25 lb
Small, shiny, steel-blue jump-
ing beetle. Frequently attacks carbaryl - 1 lb
and destroys seedlings.
Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cabbage maggot Lorsban 4E - 0.05 to 0.86 lb
Delia brassicae ai/1000 row ft.
White legless larvae feed on Lorsban 15G - 0.69 to 1.38 lb
roots. ai/1000 row ft.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Diamondback moth diazinon - 0.5 lb
Plutella maculipennis
methoxychlor - 1 lb
Gray or brown moth with white
margins on forewing. When Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt
folded, white margins form dia- Apply with appropriate spreader-
mond. Larvae are pale yellow- sticker.
ish-green in color with finely
scattered erect black hairs. permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms Telone II or C-17 - preplant
Brown, jointed larvae of click diazinon 14G - 3 to 4 lb
beetles. Chew holes in edible roots.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE CONTROL
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
TURNIP - BORON DEFICIENCY
Cause: Deficiency of boron in the soil and subsequent deficiency in the turnip
plant. All vegetables require boron for growth but vary considerably in the
amount required.
Symptoms:
Leaves - May or may not show abnormalities. Leaves may turn reddish in color.
If deficiency is severe, both roots and leaves may be stunted. The leaves may
be twisted and curled and finally die.
Roots - Glassiness or water core of the root flesh followed by internal gray,
punky flecks or spots that later change to brown or black areas.
Control: Since the amount needed to correct boron deficiency varies so widely
in different areas, and since boron if used in excessive amounts can act as a
soil sterilant, check with your county extension agent or processor field pe-
rson for local recommendations. However, where boron deficiency has been a
problem, particularly in alkaline soils, one or two foliar applications of
soluble boron are recommended.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - BLACK ROOT ROT
Cause: Aphanomyces raphani and Rhizoctonia solani, fungi. The organisms over-
winter in the soil and on diseased plant residue in the soil.
Symptoms: Aphanomyces raphani invades the fine rootlets of the young seed-
lings and develops resting spores in large numbers within the roots. On the
main taproot dark surface lesions develop which turn grayish with age. These
enlarge into grayish-black discolored areas of irregular size and shape just
beneath the root surface. The main root may be girdled and growth of the plant
interrupted until new roots are formed above the girdle. Systemic infection
occurs occasionally, resulting in darkened vascular tissue within a normal
appearing root.
Control:
1. Where possible, avoid planting any of the crucifers on the same land for 3
or more years.
2. Growers have obtained good control using fumigants containing a combination
of chloropicrin and methyl bromide sealed with plastic tarp.
Residues: Use 82.5 to 115.5 lb actual chloropicrin plus 167.5 to 234.5 lb
actual methyl bromide/A with a plastic seal.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - CLUB ROOT
Cause: Plasmodiophora brassicae; this organism survives indefinitely in
infested soil.
Symptoms: Injured diseased plants are chlorotic, later turning a yellowish
color, and are slow in growth and development. They often partially wilt
during warm days. Beneath the fleshy turnip root, enlarged clublike growths
develop. These ultimately become infected with secondary bacteria, rot, and
break down.
Control:
1. The European rutabaga variety, `Marian' is tolerant to club root as is the
turnip variety `York'.
2. High applications of lime have been used on infested soil. This material
apparently retards the development of the causal fungus. See Cabbage--Club
Root for lime rates.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - POWDERY MILDEW
Cause: Erysiphe polygoni, a fungus. This organism is perpetuated from year to
year on turnip and rutabaga refuse and other hosts including weeds.
Symptoms: A powdery, whitish-gray coloring consisting of the fungus and fungus
spores of the mildew develops on infected leaves. In the advanced stages, the
leaves are distorted, twisted, and retarded in growth. They ultimately turn
yellow and die.
Control: Sulfur dust or wettable sulfur sprays (6 lb in 100 gal water) are the
best fungicidal controls.
Residues: Sulfur-no time limitations.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - SEED TREATMENT
Aids in control of black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, and black leg.
Thiram - Follow product directions.
Captan - Follow product directions.
When Pythium is a problem, use Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed or
Ridomil at 4 to 8 pt/A either incorporated preplant or as a
postplant/preemergence application. See label for further information.
Note: Where black leg is a problem, soak seed in hot water, 122 F for 25
minutes. Dry. Just before planting, use treatments listed above.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments or questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S.
Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 9733l.
---------------------------------------------------
. ..
faqupdate.001 seedcats .cache .cache+ . .. mail-order-plants poisonous-plants seedcats.faq From: klier@cobra.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: To Spray or Not to Spray?
Date: 16 Jul 94 07:44:54 -0500
We've talked a lot on this group this year about use of various controls
for plant pests... everything from Bacillus thuringensis, to soap and water,
to malathion, nicotine, sevin, and arsenic.... what I've not seen discussed
is *what level* of damage is needed before you start applying some of these
controls (esp. insect controls).
My point of view is that there should be no controls (except cultural
controls like mixed plantings, and the proper soils, water, light
and fertilization) until you have good evidence that the problem will be
reaching "crisis", and you really need to do something. Until you've
reached this threshhold, don't do anything... so what if you have a
few holes in your bean leaves, or a squash borer... if you've planted
enough to allow for some crop damage, why create a surplus? Chances
are, if there hasn't been a great deal of spraying in your neighborhood,
that natural enemies of the pests are going to move in and feast when
the pest population gets big enough.
If, however, things are getting out of hand, try some hand picking,
high pressure water sprays, pruning, or other "basics" as a first
resort in reducing pest populations. Don't get out the "big guns"
until you really know you need them.
Why?
1) Most pesticides, unless applied in a very targeted way, are not
specific; thus, you get the good guys along with the bad guys.
2) Insects and other short-lived critters have a tremendous capacity
to adapt their populations in response to a selection pressure: like
malathion or Bacillus thuringensis. When a population with a few
individuals that aren't susceptible to the pesticide is subjected
to pesticide treatment, the susceptible ones die, and the resistant
ones reproduce. Thus, by using a pesticide, you run the risk of
helping create a resistant strain of pest. (and the shorter the
life cycle of the pest, the more likely we are to see resistant
pest populations, soon!)
3) Developing new strains of BT and other microbial pesticides isn't
easy; ditto developing pesticides that are targeted to specific
pests. If we "wear out" the "environmentally desireable" pesticides
with overuse, we're stuck with the "bad pesticides" when we really
need controls. :-( (this is rather like the new antibiotic resistant
strains of bacteria that have been developing in response to increased
antibiotic use-- e.g., multi-drug resistant tuberculosis, multi-drug
resistant Staphylococcus aureus.)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
[WATER FAQ location: http://www.siouxlan.com/water/faq.html]
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Button Bar
__________________________________________________________________________
THE WATER FAQ
__________________________________________________________________________
[IMAGE]
Request more information
Special
National Testing Laboratories press release related to federal reports
on poor quality of drinking water - 6/1/95
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Water Basics
2. Hard Water
1. What is hard water?
2. What are hardness minerals?
3. How do you measure hardness?
4. Why should hard water concern me?
5. Who will test my water for hardness?
6. My water is hard; now what?
7. Which water conditioning company should I call?
8. What should I look for in a water conditioner?
9. I have a water conditioner, now my water feels "slimy"!
3. Water that Smells
1. My water stinks! What can I do?
2. OK, it's my raw water that smells -- now what?
1. Minor, musty smell
2. Strong, rotten-egg smell
3. Strong, musty smell
Solutions:
1. Filters
2. Feeders
3. Aeration
4. Water that Stains
1. I have red stains in my sinks and other fixtures -- Help!!
Iron types:
1. oxidized
2. soluble
3. colloidal
4. bacterial
5. organic-bound
2. I have blue or green stains on my fixtures -- Help!!
1. copper in your water supply
2. copper pipes & corrosive water
5. Water Testing Information
1. When Should I Test?
2. What Could I Test For?
1. List of contaminants and health effects
3. An Easy Way to Test
1. Sample test results
Other 'Water' sites of interest
1. Hill's Plumbing Page
2. Purdue's Gopher on Water Quality
3. Water Quality Topics - Florida State University
__________________________________________________________________________
Water Basics
__________________________________________________________________________
Water is generally classified into two groups: Surface Water and
Ground Water. Surface water is just what the name implies; it is
water found in a river, lake or other surface impoundment. This water
is usually not very high in mineral content, and many times is called
"soft water" even though it usually is not. Surface water is exposed
to many different contaminants, such as animal wastes, pesticides,
insecticides, industrial wastes, algae and many other organic
materials. Even surface water found in a pristine mountain stream
possibly contains Giardia or Coliform Bacteria from the feces of wild
animals, and should be boiled or disinfected by some means prior to
drinking.
Ground Water is that which is trapped beneath the ground. Rain that
soaks into the ground, rivers that disappear beneath the earth,
melting snow are but a few of the sources that recharge the supply of
underground water. Because of the many sources of recharge, ground
water may contain any or all of the contaminants found in surface
water as well as the dissolved minerals it picks up during it's long
stay underground. Waters that contains dissolved minerals, such as
calcium and magnesium above certain levels are considered "hard
water" Because water is considered a "solvent", ie, over time it can
break down the ionic bonds that hold most substances together, it
tends to dissolve and 'gather up' small amounts of whatever it comes
in contact with. For instance, in areas of the world where rock such
as limestone, gypsum, fluorspar, magnetite, pyrite and magnesite are
common, well water is usually very high in calcium content, and
therefore considered "hard".
Due to the different characteristics of these two types of water, it
is important that you know the source of your water -- Surface or
Ground. Of the 326 million cubic miles of water on earth, only about
3% of it is fresh water; and 3/4 of that is frozen. Only 1/2 of 1% of
all water is underground; about 1/50th of 1% of all water is found in
lakes and streams. The average human is about 70% water. You can only
survive 5 or less days without water.
[ Back to Table of Contents ]
[ Back to the Water Treatment Page ]
__________________________________________________________________________
Hard Water
__________________________________________________________________________
WHAT IS HARD WATER?
Hard water is the most common problem found in the average home. Hard
water is water that contains dissolved hardness minerals above 1 GPG.
WHAT ARE HARDNESS MINERALS?
Calcium, manganese and magnesium are the most common.
HOW DO YOU MEASURE HARDNESS?
Parts per million or grains per gallon are the most common. One part
per million (PPM) is just what it says: out of one million units, one
unit. Grains, or grains per gallon (GPG) is a weight measurement
taken from the Egyptians; one dry grain of wheat, or about 1/7000 of
a pound. It takes 17.1 PPM to equal 1 GPG.
WHY SHOULD HARD WATER CONCERN ME?
For many uses, it would not matter. For instance, to put out fires,
water your lawn, wash the mud off the streets or float your boat,
water would have to be pretty hard to cause a problem. But for
bathing, washing dishes and clothes, shaving, washing your car and
many other uses of water, hard water is not as efficient or
convenient as "soft water." For instance:
* you use only 1/2 as much soap cleaning with soft water.
* because hard water and soap combine to form "soap scum" that
can't be rinsed off, forming a 'bathtub ring' on all surfaces and
drys leaving unsightly spots on your dishes.
* when hard water is heated, the hardness minerals are
re-crystallized to form hardness scale. This scale can plug your
pipes and hot water heater, causing premature failure,
necessitating costly replacement.
* the soap scum remains on your skin even after rinsing, clogging
the pores of your skin and coating every hair on your body. This
crud can serve as a home for bacteria, causing diaper rash, minor
skin irritation and skin that continually itches.
* for many industrial uses, the hardness minerals interfere with
the process, causing inferior product.
WHO WILL TEST MY WATER FOR HARDNESS?
If you are connected to a municipal supply, call the water
Superintendent, or City Hall. They can either provide the answer, or
direct you to the proper individual. Remember the conversion factor:
it takes 17.1 PPM to equal 1 GPG. In other words, if your water has
171 PPM calcium in it, divide 171 by 17.1 to get the answer in
grains. This example would be 10 grains, or GPG.
If you are on a private supply, you could contact your county
extension agent: collect a sample in an approved container and send
to the city or state health department for testing: find a testing
lab (try the yellow pages): call a water conditioning company. By the
way, if you are on a private well, YOU, AND YOU ALONE are responsible
for the safety of the water you and your family drink. You should
test your supply for bacteria at least once per year and other
contaminants at least every three years -- more under certain
conditions.
MY WATER IS HARD; NOW WHAT?
If your water tests over 3 GPG hard, you should mechanically soften
it. Softening water that is less than 3 GPG, while it makes your
shaving and bathing more comfortable, is considered a luxury due to
the fact that the cost is more than your savings. Over 3 GPG, you
will save enough to pay for the cost and maintenance of a water
conditioner.
As of this writing, the most economical way for you to soften your
household water is with an ion exchange water softener. This unit
uses sodium chloride (salt) to recharge man made plastic like beads
that exchange hardness minerals for sodium. As the hard water passes
through and around the plastic like beads, the hardness minerals
(ions) attach themselves to the bead, dislodging the sodium ions.
This process is called "ion exchange". When the plastic bead, called
Resin, has no sodium ions left, it is exhausted, and can soften no
more water. The resin is recharged by flushing with salt water. The
sodium ions force the hardness ions off the resin beads; then the
excess sodium is rinsed away, and the resin is ready to start the
process all over again. This cycle can be repeated many, many time
before the resin loses it's ability to react to these forces.
WHICH WATER CONDITIONING COMPANY SHOULD I CALL?
As in any purchase, talk to your friends and neighbors -- who do they
use? Are they happy with them? Check with the Better Business Bureau
for complaints. The BBB can't prevent shady business, but they can
and do keep a file of complaints filed by people who have had
dealings with them.
Ask at least two to come to your home to look at your plumbing and
then give you a quote on their equipment. Have them explain all the
features of the unit, as well as the warranty.
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A WATER CONDITIONER?
Make sure the unit has enough resin to treat all the water you and
your family will use. As of this writing, the average usage per day,
per person (including children), for inside the house is 87 gallons.
You should also be shown two or three ways to initiate recharging the
unit.
The oldest way is by a timeclock, ie, your water usage is calculated
and the frequency of recharging programmed into the timer. On the
appointed day, at the appointed hour, the unit recharges. If all went
as calculated, ok. If you were gone -- too bad -- you just wasted
salt and water. If you had extra company -- too bad -- you ran out of
soft water. You must pick a unit that will treat one days supply of
water and still have about 40% of the resin in the recharged state.
This will provide you with the most efficiency for salt and
regeneration water.
A second way to initiate recharge is by electronic sensing. By
electronically checking the resin, these units can determine when the
resin needs to be recharged -- this is a great help when your water
hardness changes, when you have extra company or when you are gone
for a few days. These 'sensor' units can save you up to 42% of your
salt and recharge water as well as keep you in soft water when you
have extra guests.
A third way to initiate recharge is by using a meter. These units
have a meter installed in the water line and simply measure how many
gallons of water you actually used. The unit is set according to your
water hardness, and will recharge when the gallons used approach
exhaustion of the resin bed, saving you a high percentage of your
recharge salt and water.
Many variations of these methods are on the market. Some use
computers to calculate in advance, when to recharge the unit; some
have two resin beds (tanks), and switch back and forth between the
two, keeping you in soft water all the time, at the highest
efficiency. These systems are most effective in high-hardness waters,
ie, over 10-12 GPG, and over 4 people in the family. Low hardness
water and smaller families do not require the extra expense of these
options.
I HAVE A WATER CONDITIONER, NOW MY WATER FEELS "SLIMY"
When the hardness minerals are removed, soap no longer forms a soap
curd, or "bathtub ring" on your skin, plugging your pores, clinging
to every strand of hair. You are now truly clean. That slick, slimy
feeling you feel is your natural body oils -- without the soap scum.
The old saying that you get "squeaky clean" is a myth; that feeling
was caused by the soap scum on your skin. By the way, that soap scum
provided an excellent place for bacteria to hide and grow, causing
numerous minor skin ailments.
[ Back to Table of Contents ]
[ Back to the Water Treatment Page ]
__________________________________________________________________________
Water that Smells
__________________________________________________________________________
MY WATER STINKS! WHAT CAN I DO?
First, you must learn a little about your nose: Once you smell some
things, your sense of smell is dulled for a short while, and you
can't make accurate judgments of smell. For instance, if I blindfold
you, let you smell gasoline, hand you a piece of onion to eat and
tell you it is an apple, you can't tell it's not because your nose
isn't working properly!! (Your sense of taste isn't working either --
smell and taste are closely related and affect each other!)
So, to correctly analyze your problem, you need to become a
detective. The best time to locate the smell is after you have been
away from home for a few hours -- this allows your nose to become
sensitive to "that smell" again. With your 'sensitized' nose, go to
an outside spigot -- one that the raw, untreated water flows from.
Turn it on, let it run a few minutes, then smell it. If it smells --
we found it. If not, we must look further. (Many, many smells are not
in the raw water at all, they are introduced into the water inside
the house.) Go to a cold, treated water spigot inside the house, turn
it on and let it run a minute; then smell. If this water smells, and
the outside, untreated water didn't -- you must have a device
(cartridge filter, water softener, etc.) in the water line that needs
to be cleaned and sanitized.
If it is a cartridge, or 'string' filter, replace the element and
sanitize the housing. If you have a water conditioner call the
Company where you bought the unit for advise on how to sanitize the
unit. If you rent the unit, just call! You can sanitize the unit by
pouring Hydrogen Peroxide or Chlorine Bleach in the brine well of the
salt tank, and placing the unit into regeneration. Check with the
seller, or, if they are no longer in business, any Professional Water
Conditioning Dealer for how much to put in your particular unit.
If the cold, treated water inside didn't smell, turn on the hot water
and let it run a few minutes -- does it smell? If it does, chances
are you have a sacrificial anode inside your hot water heater that is
"coming apart at the seams" and throwing off a "rotten egg" odor.
This obnoxious smell will drive you right out of your shower! The
only solution is to remove the anode from the heater and replace it
with a new one. I will say, however, if you replace the anode, you
will more than likely get the smell back again -- so I say just
remove it, and put a plug in the hole! This anode is placed in a hot
water heater (glass lined) to seal up any cracks in the glass lining
and prevent corrosion of the heater tank. You will find the anode on
the top of the heater; remove the tin cover and insulation -- look
for what looks like a pipe plug -- about 1/2 inch in size. Turn off
the heat source and the water; have someone hold the tank to prevent
it from turning, and unscrew the "plug". You will find that the
'plug' has a 30 - 40 " long pipe (or what's left of one) attached to
it. Hopefully, most of the rod is still attached -- just corroded. If
so, replace the plug with a real pipe plug and throw the anode away.
If part of the rod has corroded off, and fallen into the heater, you
may have to try to fish it out. Either way, before you plug the hole,
pour about 2 pints of chlorine bleach into the heater first. This
will kill the smell left in the heater. If, after a week or so, the
smell returns, you must fish out the rod that is in the bottom of the
tank. Good Luck!
OK, IT'S MY RAW WATER THAT SMELLS -- NOW WHAT?
First, you must determine what is causing the smell, and how strong
it is.
Minor, musty smell
If it is a minor, or low-level smell, you MIGHT be able to solve it
with a small, point-of-use carbon filter. You can place these types
of filters on the water line going to the cold water where you draw
you drinking water. Or, you might solve it with a whole-house filter
on your incoming water line to filter all of the water inside your
home.
Because carbon removes smells by ADsorbtion, ie, the smell "sticks"
or "adheres" to the carbon particles, you must be careful not to
exceed the manufactures recommended flow -- some filters even have a
flow restriction built in them. If you run water through them too
fast, you will not remove the smells. Whenever you place a carbon
filter in your water line, you must be sure to replace the element
and sanitize the housing on a regular basis. Carbon filters remove
organics from water, and the bacteria found in water like to eat
organics -- the carbon filter is a nice, dark place, just full of
food for them to grow and reproduce in. Regular and routine
replacement will help prevent any buildup of bacteria in the
cartridge.
Strong, rotten-egg smell
Strong, rotten-egg odors in the raw water is usually the result of
the decomposition of decaying underground organic deposits. As water
is drawn to the surface, hydrogen sulfide gas can be released to the
atmosphere. In strong concentrations, this gas is flammable and
poisonous. It rapidly tarnishes silver, turning it black. It is toxic
to aquarium fish in sufficient quantities. As little as 0.5 ppm
hydrogen sulfide can be tasted in your drinking water.
Strong, musty smell
If you are unlucky enough to have this problem, you should look for a
company that has local experience in dealing with this problem. There
are three basic ways to solve this problem for homeowners.
Filters
Installation of a whole house filter loaded with a media that is
specific for hydrogen sulfide removal is successful many times.
These types of filters must be recharged with chlorine or potassium
permanganate. The removal capacities of these types of filters are
usually fairly low, and must be sized to contain enough media to
prevent premature exhaustion, and subsequent passage of the smell
to service. It is also typical that the amount of hydrogen sulfide
can fluctuate rapidly, causing great difficulty in sizing the unit.
In addition, potassium permanganate is extremely "messy", and will
leave stains that are very difficult to remove.
Feeders
Feeder systems consist of a small pump that injects small amounts
of chlorine (usually) into the incoming water. The water must then
be held for a short period of time to allow the hydrogen sulfide to
precipitate out of the water. This tank should be designed in such
a manner that the water that enters it will mix thoroughly with the
water in the tank, to assure complete reaction. The water then
should pass through a filter to remove both the precipitated matter
and the chlorine remaining in the water. You should be aware,
however, that whenever you mix chlorine with organic materials
(remember where hydrogen sulfide come from!), the chances are very
high that trihalomethanes (possible cancer causing carginigns) will
be formed. Also, feeder maintenance is high, you should be prepared
to "play" with the unit frequently.
Aeration
Aeration consists of breaking the incoming water into small
droplets (spray) into the air, drawing fresh air through that
spray, collecting the water into a storage tank, repressurize the
water, passing it through a particulate filter to catch any
particles that might be carried out of the storage tank. The air
drawn though the spray must be vented outside the house --
remember, it is toxic and explosive. Although this system
necessitates another pump to repressurize your supply, you are not
adding any chemicals to your water, which makes it attractive. This
system is low maintenance and no chemicals to purchase. Initial
cost may be higher, however, and space requirements may be greater.
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Water that Stains
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I HAVE RED STAINS IN MY SINKS AND OTHER FIXTURES -- HELP!
Red stains are normally caused by iron in the water. You must test to
determine the amount and the type of iron you have. Some types are:
oxidized, soluble, colloidal, bacteria or organic-bound. All are a
problem! It only takes 0.3 ppm to stain clothes, fixtures, etc.
Oxidized
This type of iron is usually found in a surface water supply. This is
water that contains red particles when first drawn from the tap. The
easiest way to remove this type of iron is by a fine mechanical
filter. A cartridge type filter is usually not a good solution, due
to the rapid plugging of the element. Another method or removal is by
feeding a chemical into the water to cause the little particles of
iron to clump together, and then fall to the bottom of a holding
tank, where they can be flushed away.
Soluable
Soluble iron is called "clear water" iron. After being drawn form the
well and contacting the air, the iron oxidizes, or "rusts", forming
reddish brown particles in the water. Depending on the amount of iron
in the water, you may solve this problem with a water conditioner, or
a combination of softener and filter. You may use an iron filter that
recharges with chlorine or potassium permanganate, or feed chemicals
to oxidize the iron and then filter it with a mechanical filter. You
can sometimes hide the effects of soluble iron by adding chemicals
that, in effect, coat the iron in the water and prevent it from
reaching oxygen and oxidizing.
Colloidal
Colloidal iron is very small particles of oxidized iron suspended in
the water. They are usually bound together with other substances.
They resist agglomeration, ie, the combining together of like
substances forming larger, heavier, more filterable ones, due to the
static electrical charge they carry. This iron looks more like a
color than particles when held up in a clear glass, as they are so
small. Treatment is usually one of two: Feed chlorine to oxidize the
organic away from the iron, thus allowing agglomeration to occur, or,
feeding polymers that attract the static charge on the particles,
forming larger clumps of matter that is filterable.
Bacterial
Iron bacteria are living organisms that feed on the iron found in the
water, pipes, fittings, etc. They build slime all along the water
flow path. Occasionally, the slimy growths break free, causing
extremely discolored water. If a large slug breaks loose, it can pass
through to the point of use, plugging fixtures. These types of
bacteria are becoming more common throughout the United States. If
you suspect bacteria iron, look for a reddish or green slime buildup
in your toilet flush tank. To confirm your suspicions, gather a
sample of this slime and take it to your local health department, or
water department for observation under the microscope. This type of
iron problem is very hard to eliminate. You must kill the bacteria,
usually by chlorination. You must use high amounts of chlorine
throughout your plumbing system to kill all organisms. You may find
it necessary to feed chlorine continuously to prevent regrowth. A
filter alone will not solve this problem.
Organic bound
When iron combines with tannins and other organics, complexes are
formed that cannot be removed by ion exchange or oxidizing filters.
This iron may be mistaken for colloidal iron. Test for tannins; if
they are present, it is most likely combined with the iron. Low level
amounts of this pest can be removed by use of a carbon filter, which
absorbs the complex. You must replace the carbon bed when it becomes
saturated. Higher amounts require feeding chlorine to oxidize the
organics to break apart from the iron and cause both to precipitate
into a filterable particle.
I HAVE BLUE OR GREEN STAINS ON MY FIXTURES -- HELP!
You either have copper in your water supply, or you have copper pipes
and corrosive water. Test for copper in your water. Test the pH,
total dissolved solids content and the oxygen content of your water.
Copper
Copper can be removed by ion exchange, ie, a water softener. The
removal rate is about the same as it is for iron.
Copper pipes and corrosive water
If your pH is from 5 to 7, you may raise it by passing the water
through a sacrificial media. By sacrificing calcium carbonate into
the water, the corrosively will be reduced. If the pH is below 5, you
will need to feed chemicals into the water.
If the corrosively is caused by excess oxygen, the hot water will be
much more corrosive than the cold. Treatment is by feeding
polyphosphate or silicates to coat and protect the plumbing, or to
aeriate the water to release the excess oxygen.
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Water Testing Information
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WHEN SHOULD I TEST?
Several factors will influence when and how often you test your
water. Where do get your water from? Has that source changed? Have
you done any plumbing changes lately? Is there reason to believe that
your water is contaminated? Is there a sickness or illness in your
family affecting more than one person and over a longer than normal
time period?
If you receive your water from a "Public Supply", ie, a municipal
supply, or a supply that provides water to more than 25 persons for
60 days per year (some states are different -- check with YOUR local
water department), you can be fairly certain that the water supply is
checked on a regular basis. The frequency of the testing is based on
the number of people served, and may vary from more than once per
week to once per month, or even less. Under these conditions, test
when you move into a new residence to acquire a "base line" of
contaminant level, if any. Retest every three years, unless you have
reason to believe that something has changed that could affect the
quality of your water.
If you have a private well, you are the only person who is
responsible for the water your family drinks and bathes in. I
recommend testing by your local Health Department every six months
for Bacteria and Nitrate. These two tests serve as indicators for
other types of contaminations -- that is not to say forget the other
tests; just that if you get a "bad" test from them, you should also
retest for the other types of contaminants as well. Private wells
should be tested on a regular basis for Pesticides, Herbicides,
Metals, Organic and Inorganic chemicals and volatiles. Currently, no
laws govern the frequency of such testing -- that is why I say YOU
are the only person responsible for your family's water. I recommend
an initial test (for a base line), and then at least once per year.
Remember, one day after testing and finding "no contaminants", your
source could become contaminated.
WHAT COULD I TEST FOR?
Coliform bacteria are a group of microorganisms that are normally
found in the intestinal tract of humans and other warm blooded
animals, and in surface water. The presence of these organisms in
drinking water suggest contamination from a surface or shallow
subsurface source such as cesspool leakage, barnyard runoff or other
source. The presence of these bacteria indicate that disease-causing
(pathogenic) organisms may enter the drinking water supply in the
same manner if preventive action is not taken. Drinking water should
be free of coliforms.
Cysts and viruses are microbiological contaminants, usually found in
surface water supplies. Giardia lamblia cysts can cause giardiasis, a
gastrointestinal disease. Another "bug" getting a lot of attention
lately, is cryptosporidium, single-cell parasite measuring about 2 -
5 microns in diameter. Many surface water supplies contain this pest,
which also comes from the intestine of warm blooded animals.
Nitrate in drinking water supplies may reduce the oxygen carrying
capacity of the blood (cyanosis) if ingested in sufficient amounts by
infants under 6 months of age. This could cause a disease called
"methemoglobinemia", or "blue baby" syndrome. The EPA has established
a maximum contaminant level (MCL) for nitrate at 10 mg/l (ppm)
measured as N. Unlike coliform or other types of bacteria, boiling
the water will actually INCREASE the amount of nitrate remaining in
the water, increasing the danger to infants. If you have high nitrate
water, either treat it with an approved treatment metholodgy or find
another source: Boiling will only make it worse!
Lead is now known to leach from older sweat joints in copper pipe. As
the water sits in the pipes, small amounts of lead 'dissolve' into
the water, contaminating it. Lead is particularly harmful to small
children as they more rapidly absorb the toxic substance into their
systems. The EPA has estimated that more than 40 million U.S.
residents use water that contains more than the recommended levels.
Click here to see a list of contaminants and the possible health
effects of those contaminants.
AN EASY WAY TO TEST
The sponsor of this Water FAQ is Culligan H20 4 u in South Sioux
City, Nebraska. We offer a complete, five bottle testing kit, ready
for your use. This kit will be tested by the National Testing
Laboratories, Inc. in Ypsilanti, Michigan. You simply follow the
directions in the kit and return the sample to the lab. They test
your sample and then report to you. Your test results will be a two
page report showing contaminant level, a cover letter explaining the
test results and what you should do.
To see a sample of the two page report, click here.
We offer two tests:
1. Water Check - $99
All of the above chemicals tested EXCEPT the last 20, ie,
pesticides, herbicides and PCB's
2. Water Check with pesticides - $139
ALL of the above chemicals
ORDER WATER TEST
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