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Culinary herbFAQ (v.1.09) Part 3/4



Archive-name: food/culinary-herbs/part3
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Last-modified: 1996/06/22
Version: 1.09

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 /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/faqs/

=====
2.17.3 Using / preserving garlic
-----
From: NDooley@president-po.president.uiowa.edu

Garlic Jelly

2 T. butter or margarine
1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled and minced
3 C. granulated sugar
1/2 C. apple cider vinegar
6 oz. liquid pectin

In a large saucepan, combine butter and garlic over medium heat. Cook,
stirring constantly, until garlic is light golden brown (3 to 4 minutes).
Add sugar and vinegar. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and
mixture comes to a boil. Stir in pectin. Boil 1 minute, stirring
constantly. Remove from heat. Skim foam from top of jelly. Pour into
sterilized jars and seal. Yield: about 3 C. jelly.

-----
From: Schaller_Barb@htc.honeywell.com (Barb Schaller)

Here's a recipe from the Fall 1995 Kerr Kitchen Pantry publication:
"This unusual jelly can be used as a condiment: Simply add it to a meat
marinade or brush it on a roast while cooking. The combination of
ingredients results in an attractive light green color -- no food coloring
needed!"

Garlic Jelly

4 oz. peeled garlic cloves
2 cups white vinegar (labeled 5 percent acidity)
5 cups sugar
3 oz. package liquid pectin (Certo brand)

In a food processor or blender, blend garlic and 1/2 cup vinegar until
smooth. In 6- to 8-quart saucepan, combine garlic mixture, remaining 1-1/2
cups vinegar and sugar. Over high heat, bring mixture to a boil, stirring
constantly. Quickly add pectin, return to a boil and boil hard for 1
minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Immediately fill hot,
sterilized half-pint jars with jelly, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe jar
tops and threads clean. Place hot lids on jars and apply screw bands
firmly. Process in boiling water bath for 5 minutes. Yield: 5 half-pint
jars.

-----
Garlic jam

From: Sam Waring <waring@ima.infomail.com>

4 Garlic head, whole (~14 oz)
1 T Olive oil, extra-virgin
1 md Onion; unpeeled & halved lengthwise
Salt (opt)

Preheat the oven to 350F. Using a large sharp knife, cut off 1/2-inch from
the top of each head of garlic to expose some of the flesh.
Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over the bottom of a gratin or glass pie
dish. Place the garlic and the onion halves cut sides down in the dish,
cover tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes, until very soft to the
touch. Uncover and let cool for 20 minutes. Peel the onion halves and
finely chop them. Place in a medium bowl.
Squeeze the garlic pulp from the skins into the bowl; discard the skins.
Using a fork, stir in the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and mash with the onion
and garlic until thoroughly incorporated. Season with salt if desired. (The
garlic jam will keep refrigerated in a glass jar for up to 2 weeks.)
Makes 1-1/3 cups.
Use this condiment with roasted meats or as a spread for toasted croutons
or cold meat sandwiches, or try a spoonful of it mixed into homemade salad
dressings and sauces.
Source: Food & Wine - December, 1993

-----
From: hattie@netcom.com (Susan Hattie Steinsapir)

Garlic bulbs - intact - keep well if given enough air about them. I keep a
pound or so on hand, ordinarily, in a bowl on the counter. If it starts to
go bad, usually you'll notice that it's sprouting much as an onion or
potato would.
It's great baked - then squeeze the paste out onto toasted baguettes.
Absolutely *DO NOT* store it in oil. Doing this can lead to death by
bacterial contamination.
I don't know about freezing it. I usually use it up before I really have to
consider such a course.

-----
From: ness@tc.fluke.COM (Jerry Ness)

I break up the garlic bulb and peel each clove of garlic. I put all the
cloves of garlic in one of those pint jars with the glass lid, wire bale
and red rubber gasket. I fill the jar with Gallo cocktail sherry and put it
in the 'fridge.
I tried the oil method with the same kind of jar in the 'fridge but after a
couple of weeks the hiss of exhausting gasses when I opened the jar made me
more than a little suspect that something wasn't right with this method.
I have had no spoilage problems with the sherry/garlic method. An extra
bonus is the garlic flavored sherry for stir fry, Yum!

-----
From: hattie@netcom.com (Susan Hattie Steinsapir)

The best part of a pickle is the pickled garlic. It's the safest thing for
me to eat - I can eat about 3 of them and not salt out. I've seen pickled
garlic in the stores. It costs 3 USD to 4 USD for a half-pint. Garlic is
cheap, this stuff is way overpriced! So, I wanted to pickle it myself but
needed a recipe. Voila! Here's a recipe for pickled garlic from the Kerr
Kitchen *Pantry*.

Pickled garlic

3 cups peeled garlic cloves (this was the tough part!)
1.5 cups white vinegar (5 percent acidity)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 t pickling salt

Add garlic cloves to pan of boiling water. When water returns to a boil,
boil for one minute. Drain and pack into hot half-pint jars, leaving 1/2
inch headspace. Heat vinegar, sugar, and salt to boiling. Pour boiling
pickling liquid over garlic, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Carefully run a
nonmetallic utensil down inside of jars to remove trapped air bubbles. Wipe
jar tops and threads clean. Place hot lids on jars and apply screw bands
firmly. Process in Boiling Water Bath Canner for 10 minutes.
Yield: 3 1/2 pints.
I'll probably use less sugar, more salt. I know that I'll add hot pepper
flakes for some extra kick.
As an addendum, from Susan Hattie Steinsapir:
When I pickled the garlic, I soaked it overnight in the fridge in vinegar.
I poked holes in it so the vinegar could penetrate it better and then I
boiled it in the vinegar. I didn't use sugar at all but used more salt. I
haven't opened a jar yet but gave one to my sister. She was thrilled.

-----
From: jouet@aol.com (JOUET):

Garlic Soup 1

1 clove garlic
2 tbs. olive oil
3 tbs. butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 Cups chicken stock
4 slices white bread, crusts removed
2/3 Cup light cream
1 ounce blanched almonds, finely chopped
Garnish: fresh parsley or chives, chopped

Separate the garlic cloves, removing the papery skins. Heat the oil in a
pan, add the garlic, and cook for 10-15 minutes until tender. Remove from
the heat. Cook, then skin. Roughly chop the flesh.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the garlic and onion, cover, and
cook over low heat for 10-15 minutes until the onion is soft. Pour in the
stock, add the bread, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor. Add the cream and almonds
and blend until smooth. Garnish and serve
NOTES: Garlic that has been smoked over oak chips adds a great flavor but
regular garlic will work quite well.

Garlic Soup 2

1 whole garlic bulbs
2 quarts water
2 teaspoons salt
a pinch of pepper
1/4 teaspoon sage
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon bay leaf
4 sprigs parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 whole egg yolks
4 tablespoons olive oil
some grated Parmesan cheese

Separate the garlic cloves, drop into boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain,
plunge into cold water, and peel. Put the garlic with the 2 quarts of
water, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and olive oil into a
large saucepan and boil slowly for 30 minutes. Adjust seasoning.
Beat the egg yolks in a soup tureen until they are thick. Beat in the oil
very slowly, as if making mayonnaise. Just before serving, beat a cup of
the hot soup into the egg mixture slowly, so that the eggs heat gradually.
Strain in the rest of the soup through a sieve, beating constantly; keeping
back the garlic and seasonings. Press the garlic against the sieve to get
the juice out. Serve at once with fresh French bread or croutons and
cheese.
Alternative: instead of the oil and egg mix in the tureen, strain the soup
and return it to the pot. Add 3 cups potatoes, diced, and a pinch of
saffron; simmer for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.

Garlic Soup 3

1/2 cup oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 oz stale white bread, crusts removed, crumbled
1 teaspoon paprika
pinch salt
pinch cayenne pepper
4 cups water
3 whole tomatoes, peeled and coarsely
2 whole eggs, lightly beaten
Garnish: 2 sprigs parsley, finely chopped

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the garlic and saute until soft but not
brown. Add the bread and cook over moderate heat until light golden but do
not brown. Add the paprika, salt, cayenne, water, and tomatoes, then simmer
for 30 minutes over low heat.
With a wooden spoon, beat the soup until the bread disintegrates. While
beating, add the eggs. Simmer for a few moments but do not boil. The soup
should be highly seasoned. If necessary, add more cayenne and salt.
Garnish with parsley and serve.

-----
From: Susan Hattie Steinsapir <hattie@netcom.com>

Here's yet another garlic soup recipe. This one from Elizabeth David's
*French Country Cooking*.

Soupe A L'Ail

This version is from Languedoc.
Put 2 tablespoons of goose or other good dripping into a deep earthenware
casserole. In this, gently melt 24 cloves of garlic without letting them
brown. (Note, most of us don't have goose fat or an earthenware casserole.
I usually have some schmaltz - rendered chicken fat - on hand, or use a
mixture of butter and olive oil. Use an enameled soup pot.)
Over this pour 3 to 4 pints of warmed stock or water. Season with salt,
black pepper, nutmeg and mace. Cook for 15 minutes. Put the soup through a
sieve. (By this, I think you mush the garlic cloves through.) Return the
soup to the pot to reheat it.
In a bowl, beat the yolks of three to four eggs with three tablespoons of
olive oil. Stir some of the soup into the eggs, then pour the egg mixture
back into the soup without letting it boil again.
Have some slices of stale bread, toasted in the oven with the egg whites
(not beaten) spread over them. Put these bread slices into a soup dish and
pour the soup over them.
Should serve 4 to 6 easily. Enjoy.

==========

2.18 Thyme

Latin name: Thymus vulgaris and other Thymus species.
=====
2.18.1 Growing thyme
-----
From: skifast123@aol.com (SkiFast123)
Transplanting thyme: a suggestion made by Adelma Grenier Simmons (of
Caprilands, CT fame) in one of her many herb pamphlets is to bury one-half
of the plant along with the roots in the soil. In other words, you will
only, after transplanting, be able to see 1/2 of the plant that you had
formerly. The other 1/2 will be underground.

Since thyme is tricky to transplant because its roots are so fine and in my
experience easy to sever from the main plant, this method has worked with
good results for me.

==========

2.19 Lemon grass / Citronella grass

Latin names:
Lemon grass: Cymbopogon citratus.
Citronella grass: Cymbopogon nardus
=====
2.19.2 Harvesting lemon grass
-----
From: stoddard@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu (Mari J Stoddard)
Scissor off the top third of the leaves, [dry] and use in tea or potpourri.
Do this whenever you have lots of points sticking up, rather than harvested
edges. I love to mix it with mint and Texas Ranger (all three fresh off the
plant). Supposed to be good for throat complaints (cough, soreness). Rose
petals or hibiscus makes for a prettier color.

Cut off a clump to ground level, use bottom third in cooking - sliced fine
or diced. Traditionally boiled in soups or sauces. For instance, lemon
grass clump, chicken broth, coconut milk, garlic and a bit of fish sauce
makes a great soup. Wait till you have at least three clumps.

Cut off a clump almost to ground level and lay on the BBQ grill under fish
or poultry. I usually separate the clump vertically into 1/4- 1/2 inch
diameter lengths and grill them for about a minute before putting down the
fish.

Separate the pot contents into clumps, and plant each clump in a new pot.

-----
From: Christopher Loffredo <cloffred@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Either start by trimming off some of the older blades every few weeks,
leaving some young shoots on the plant, then (1) roll up each blade into a
tight curl or tie it into a bow and freeze it at once inside a plastic bag,
or (2) dry the leaves, chop them up, and store in jars.

If you use the freezer method all you have to do is thaw the lemon grass
and it's ready to use. Dried lemon grass needs to be softened up if you're
going to cook with it, so place some in a small bowl with a few tablespoons
of hot water and let it soak for a while before cooking.

=====
2.19.3 Using / preserving lemon grass
-----
From: ehunt@bga.com (Eric Hunt)
This should be a great refresher.

Iced Lemongrass Tea

1/4 c Chopped fresh lemongrass-tops or
2 tbs. Dried flakes
4 c Boiling water
Sugar to taste

Preheat teapot with boiling water; discard water. Add lemongrass and
boiling water, steep 8 to 10 minutes; strain. Allow to cool, sweeten to
taste, and serve in tall glasses with ice. Yield: 4 servings

-----
From: albersa@aztec.asu.edu (ANN ALBERS)

Lemon Grass Crockpot Chicken & Thai soup from the leftover stock

1 whole chicken
8 young lemongrass stalks, 4-6" long (use the tender white parts from the
base of young shoots. These are tastiest)
salt and pepper to taste

Rinse the chicken and pat dry. Rub all over with butter and then salt and
pepper to taste. Stuff about half the lemongrass stalks in the cavity of
the chicken and put it in a crockpot, or Dutch oven. Make slits in the skin
and insert the other stalks. Trim if necessary to fit these in. Pour water
over the chicken to submerge it about halfway and cook on low 6-8 hrs till
tender.
Now, you can eat the chicken and make Thai soup out of the lemon grass
stock. To make the soup, strain all the stuff out of the stock. Add a can
of coconut milk, several shakes of red pepper flakes, bits of leftover
chicken that you've shredded and then salt and pepper to taste. Heat
thoroughly & in the last five minutes of cooking time add some sliced
mushrooms, & green onions. Yum.

Other ideas:

Make lemongrass tea. I never measure, just pour boiling water over the
leaves or stems and steep till it's well-colored. Add honey to taste.

Use the tender young shoots, chopped in stir fry dishes to add flavor. It's
good with stir fried chicken, water chestnuts, sliced carrots and broccoli.
I usually stir fry the lemongrass shoots first (about an hour ahead of
time) in a little oil then mix with teriyaki or soy sauce, some ginger, and
cornstarch to thicken. Then, after stir-frying the rest of the stuff, dump
the sauce over all and allow it to thicken. Serve with rice.

-----
From: Sam Waring <waring@ima.infomail.com>

Nasi Kuneng (Yellow rice)

1 lemon grass stalk or lemon zest
2 1/2 c rice
1 1/2 c coconut milk
3 c water
2 1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. salt
1 sl galangal, dry
1 bay leaf
1 krapau leaf

Once reserved for religious ceremonies, nasi kuneng is still served on
special occasions in Indonesia. This sweet and aromatic centerpiece of a
dish is perfect with satay.

Cut lemon grass into pieces about 3" long and tie into a bundle. In a
3-quart pan combine lemon grass, rice, coconut milk, water, turmeric, salt,
galangal, bay leaf, and citrus leaf. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, stirring gently every now
and then, just until liquid is absorbed. To finish cooking, steam according
to one of the methods listed below.

To steam in cooking pan: cover pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until rice
is tender (15-20 minutes). Halfway thru estimated cooking time, gently
fluff rice with 2 forks. Remove and discard seasonings. Transfer to a
serving bowl or mound rice on a platter into a rounded cone.

To steam using traditional method: transfer rice and seasonings to a
colander or steamer basket insert. Into a large kettle, pour water to a
depth or 1 1/2 inches: bring to boil over high heat. Place colander in
kettle. Cover and reduce heat, steam until rice is tender (about 20
minutes). Remove and discard seasonings. Serve as noted above.

-- per Larry Haftl

-----
From arielle@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM (Stephanie da Silva):

Lemongrass Drink

A handful of fresh lemongrass leaves, preferable the soft grassy tops,
or the top half of 12 fresh green stalks
3 cups cold water
1/4 cup sugar syrup

Cut the leaves or tops into 2-inch lengths, measure out 1 1/2 cups, loosely
packed. In a blender, combine the tops, water and syrup and blend at high
speed until the water is a vivid green and the lemongrass
leaves are reduced to fine, short, needlelike pieces, about 1 minute.
Strain through a very fine sieve into a large pitcher, spoon off and
discard green foam. Taste to see if it's sweet enough, and add more syrup
if you like. Serve in tall glasses over ice.

Sugar syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Combine sugar and water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until
liquid has thickened and colored slightly, about 5 minutes. Cool.

=====
2.19.4 Which lemon grass do you have?
-----
>>A friend told me he was buying small lemon grass plants to put in his
garden to help keep away bugs.
>>Has anyone ever heard of lemon grass as a bug (I assume he meant, gnats,
etc.) deterrent?
>Perhaps there is a connection to citronella?

From rastapoo@mailhost.winnet.net (Rastapoodle):
Boy, are we confused here folks, but it is a common mistake. Here's the
story: Lemongrass, a delightful plant, and it's close cousin, Citronella
have many wonderful properties, releasing their scent into the air not
being one of them.

Lemongrass is wonderful to eat, Citronella is *not*. They look similar, so
be careful what you buy. Citronella is distilled to extract its oil, which
is used in insect repellent candles, burning coils, etc.

Very interestingly, a Dutch plant scientist did some genetic engineering
and spliced the oil gene of the Citronella into a Pelargonium (scented
geranium) plant. The resultant plant looks like a scented geranium, but
gives off the fragrance of Citronella (and rose, the original scent of the
geranium) to the air with just a breeze or a kiss from the sun.

The hybrid is called Citrosa, and it is patented (you can't make cuttings
for sale). A fully grown Citrosa (about 4 x 4 feet here in Miami) is
supposed to protect a 100 sq. ft area from mosquitoes.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

Anya

PS I have planted my Citrosa among my Lemongrass for an ironic statement.

-----
>I would like to know if it is worth while to grow citronella plants with
the idea that I can make citronella candles. I don't believe I have seen
these plants in any of my order catalogs and none of my gardening books
tell how you get the citronella out of the plants.

From: adgrant@water.waterw.com (Andrew Grant):
Commercially the oil is extracted by steam distillation using old extracted
plants as fuel. I doubt that you want to get that elaborate. I have never
tried it but I suspect that the plants could be chopped up and extracted
with a solvent like alcohol or toluene. Of course you would then have to
boil off the solvent. If you do contemplate this, know that the % oil in
the plant is low (I have forgotten the number) so your yield will be low.

Incidentally the notion that citronella discourages mosquitoes is not well
supported by my experience. I have seen mosquito larvae in rain water on
top of drums of citronella oil with oil droplets in the water!!!

==========

2.20 Horseradish

Latin name: Armoracia rusticana.
=====
2.20.1 Growing horseradish
-----
With this plant, the problem is less how to get it to grow and more how to
get rid of it later. To illustrate:

From: david bennett <dabennet@mailbox.syr.edu>
I need some help; how do I get rid of horseradish which I planted a number
of years ago that now threatens to take over my garden? Key issue is no
matter how deep you dig; you never get all of the root out. Now there hides
beneath the soil an infant root waiting to become a big plant next year,
etc.

-----
From eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts), to above:
Learn to appreciate horseradish - I doubt you'll be able to eradicate it
short of using some harsh chemical means. you'll very likely have to settle
for control instead of removal.

If your soil is not heavy clay, I'd recommend spading up the area and using
a sieve to extract as many runners as possible. depending on the area of
your problem, that may be some work.

You can also pinch off all the leaves (continuously) in an effort to
deplete the roots of energy.

You may also have some luck by using a large sheet of black plastic to
mulch the area, though I'd not recommend this in times of extreme heat, it
tends to bake the soil pretty badly.

Another method used to contain such invasive plants is to ring the area
with some sort of buried edging; I know of people who cut the bottoms off
five gallon plastic buckets, bury them and plant the horseradish in the
center of each bucket (the bottom is removed for drainage).

While it's too late to do that, you may be able to define an area, trench
it, and bury a foot or two of something (metal will corrode eventually,
wood will rot, plastic isn't very organic and eventually becomes brittle,
all end up needing to be replaced over time) to restrict underground
movement.

=====
2.20.3 Using horseradish
-----
also see 4.9.5 Mustards, below.
-----
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
First get a gas mask . . .

Seriously, the root is incredibly pungent when you're grinding it. You can
simply peel and grate it and use as is, or you can mix with mustard,
vinegar, cream, etc. for various sauces.

A word of warning: Proceed slowly. Fresh horseradish is a lot hotter than
the stuff you get in bottles.

-----
From: CAOwens@ix.netcom.com (Christine A. Owens )
Dig up the root. Wash carefully, and peel like a carrot. Grate very fine.
Add 1 T cider vinegar and a pinch of salt per 1/2 c. Store frozen, or in
the refrigerator.

You can add a couple of ounces of grated horseradish to vinegar, and let it
sit for a couple of weeks to produce a spiced vinegar with a real 'zip'. A
small amount of grated horseradish added to any dressing or sauce will pep
it up effectively. Mix powdered mustard, the vinegar of your choice, and
grated horseradish in equal volumes for the best mustard in the world.

BTW, horseradish greens are also very good, either diced very fine as an
addition to a salad, steamed like spinach, or sauteed in a little butter or
oil.

-----
From: NDooley@president-po.president.uiowa.edu

Horseradish Jelly

3 C. granulated sugar
1/2 C. prepared horseradish
1/2 C. apple cider vinegar
6 oz. liquid pectin

In a large saucepan, combine sugar, horseradish and vinegar over medium
heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to
a boil. Stir in pectin. Boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from
heat. Skim foam from top of jelly. Pour into sterilized jars and seal.
Yield: about 3 C. jelly. Delicious with meat or cream cheese/crackers.

==========

2.21 Fennel

Latin name: Foeniculum vulgare.
=====
2.21.1 Growing fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
Fennel is easy to grow, growing wild in many areas. An annual, it looks
like dill, only slightly more coarse. I've had problems in wet years with
it getting some sort of mold, but is generally quite troublefree. It
prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Seeds can be planted as soon as
frost danger is past. It's best to blanch (cover with dirt) the bulbs if
you plan on harvesting them to keep them tender. Plants should be thinned
to about a foot apart. You should get some volunteers if you let them go to
seed.

=====
2.21.2 Harvesting fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
The tender leaves may be diced and used to add a hint of licorice flavor
and is great to use with seafood. Fennel seed can be used with poppy seed,
sesame seed, celery or dill seed on bread. The bulb of the plant is also
commonly harvested, though I always let mine go to seed instead. For best
flavor harvest the leaves just as the flowers are starting to bloom.

-----
> Can anyone give me some ideas on how to store or prepare the surplus of
fennel seeds in my yard?

From: HerbalMuse@aol.com
If you intend to use the seeds in baking or other cooking, then you must
collect them from the flower heads as soon as they begin to turn brown, or
they will fall to the ground to re-seed. I store whole dill seed heads (as
you can do with fennel) in paper bags and keep them in a cool, dry pantry
in the basement. Fennel seeds are excellent with grilled or broiled fish,
chicken, with tomato based soups, and of course, in breads, cakes &
cookies.

If the seeds have already fallen to the ground, and are not cleared away,
you can expect to see the emergence of new plants in early spring. This may
delight you, however you should consider where these plants will grow in
relation to the rest of garden. Fennel should be grown in a bed of it's own
since most herbs won't do well in its presence, and it will stunt tomatoes
and bush beans.

=====
2.21.3 Using / preserving fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
The leaves and seeds may be dried. The leaves may also be frozen. The
tastiest way I've had it is from a local restaurant, Ambrosia. A dish
called fettucine Gamberi, it had fettucine (duh!) in a parmesan cream sauce
with garlic, fennel leaves, parsley, scallops, shrimp, capers and fresh
tomatoes. Quite tasty! Fennel has an anise or licorice flavor, and can be
used to flavor cheeses, vegetables and some pastries in addition to
seafood.

=====
2.21.4 Which Fennel do you have?
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
There are two common types of fennel; Bronze Fennel and Common Fennel also
known as Finocchio (or Florence Fennel). True to it's name, the Bronze
Fennel's foliage is a dusky brown. My experience has all been with bronze
fennel, which is pretty in the garden as well as useful for cooking.

==========

2.22 Anise hyssop

Latin name:
Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop)
Agastache rugosa (Licorice mint, Korean)
=====
2.22.3 Using / preserving Anise hyssop
-----
From: Patrick Millard <ac577@dayton.wright.edu>
They are both strongly scented of licorice and somewhat sweet-smelling as
well. They are attracive in the garden with long spikes of blue-purple
flowers. They are considered to be good bee forage. They will grow well
indoors under flourescent lighting, blooming about 2 months after seeding.
Anise Hyssop is native to N. central U.S. I used the leaves and flowers in
salads and for flavoring meat dishes. They are supposed to good as a tea
also.

==========

2.23 Parsley

Latin name: Petroselinum crispum.
=====
2.23.1 Growing parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Parsley is a biennial. Plant seeds early in the spring (they're a little
slow to germinate). The first year, you get plenty of leaves, on fairly
long stems that come from the crown of the plant. The second year, you get
a couple of leaves and a long bloom stalk, which looks very much like Queen
Anne's Lace (they're related.) If you let it go to seed, some of the seed
will grow the next year.

To have a steady supply of parsley for cooking, you should plant two years
in a row. After that, it will self-sow if you let it.

Parsley's easy to grow - reasonable soil, sun, and water if you have a long
dry spell. The only pest I ever had was leaf miners, and the damage was
minimal.

=====
2.23.2 Harvesting parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Pick leaves from the plant, stem and all. The first year, the more you
pick, the more leaves you'll get. The second year, there are only a couple
of leaves, and no more will grow, because the plant is working on bloom and
seeds.

=====
2.23.2 Using/preserving parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
The flat "Italian" parsley is the most strongly flavored. If you're going
to use it for cooking, this is the kind to get. Curly parsley is much
prettier on a plate, but doesn't have as much flavor. Use it mostly for
garnishes.

Parsley is, of course, a classic garnish. A sprig of curly parsley on a
plate really dresses it up. You can also chop parsley and sprinkle it on
meats, vegetables, etc.

Parsley is also a classic soup herb. When you're making stock, parsley is
one of the "aromatic vegetables" that's recommended to make the flavor
richer. For this, use stem and all; in fact, this is a good place to use
stems that you've cut off from pieces used for garnish.

It's a wonderful addition to a cooked vegetable, especially green beans or
peas. Tends to accentuate the flavor of the vegetable.

It's good in salads, too, adding a different "green" texture and flavor.
It's a bit too strong to be used by itself, for most people's taste.

Parsley can be chopped and dried, or chopped and frozen in ice cubes. The
cubes are great added to soup or a sauce. The dried parsley can be added as
is to a dish to be cooked or used as a garnish on soup, or soaked in a
little bit of water and sprinkled on top of already- cooked food as a
garnish.

==========

2.24 Monarda or Bee Balm

Latin name: Monarda didyma and other Monarda species.
=====
2.24.1 Growing Monarda
-----
From: jnewbo@aol.com (Jnewbo)
My Monarda Cambridge Scarlet (the most common one) doesn't stay in place;
it moves forward on flat stems near the surface. That means it creeps
forward and needs to be divided and resituated every two-three years or so.
It also is prone to mildew - but the crown-like scarlet blooms are
fabulous.

A more well-behaved variety is the pink one, "Croftway Pink"; it has more
lanceolate leaves and smaller blooms, but the bees (including
hummingbird-moth) love it, and it enlarges in the more traditional way,
increasing the clump rather than traveling all over the garden.

Both bloom about three weeks, maybe more (sometimes I get "double" and even
"triple decker" crowns on the red one). After that clip back and you may
get more smaller blooms after a while.

-----
From: Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bris.ac.uk>
Both 'Croftway Pink' and Cambridge Scarlet are rather mildew-prone. You may
be interested to know that there are a whole range of new hybrids that have
come out, bearing the names of the signs of the zodiac, that are much more
mildew-resistant. They come in colours from purple through red and pink to
white.

Monardas are also much less prone to getting mildew (and also grow and
flower much better) in a dampish soil, or at least in a place where they do
not get too dry in summer.

-----
an354@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, also known as Bergamot and Bee Balm is a hardy perennial
which grows 2-3 feet tall. Bees love it.

The plant spreads fairly quickly through its root system. Divide every
three years, discarding the dead centre of the root. The plant will grow
well in sun or part shade. The flowers last 4-6 weeks.

====
2.24.3 Using / preserving Monarda
-----
From: an354@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, Bergamot or Bee Balm: The leaves dry well and can be used
to make a tea that tastes like Earl Grey tea.

From: jnewbo@aol.com (Jnewbo)
The leaves and flowers of Cambridge scarlet are marvelous,
bergamotty-flavored things, though I found the tea rather scratchy on the
throat.

From: Marylin.Kraker@bbs.c4systm.com (Marylin Kraker)
Mondarda does make good tea, which is why it's also called Oswego tea. It's
not the same as the bergamot in Earl Grey, which is a tropical citrus.

From: Conrad Richter <conrad@richters.com>
Both the leaves and flowers can be used. The flowers, of course, add nice
colour. Some say that the flowers have a more delicate flavour, and of the
various varieties, the red bergamot is the creme-de-la-creme.

==========

2.25 Ginger

Latin name: Zingiber officinale
=====
2.25.3 Using / preserving ginger
-----
Also see 4.8.2, Ginger beer, below.
-----
on alt.humor.best-of-usenet in March 96:

From: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu (Arthur Wouk)
Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking
Subject: Re: Crystalized Ginger -- Make it myself???

Eric Stauffer <ebs@lilly.com> wrote:
>I have a couple of receipes that call for crystallized ginger. Much to my
dismay it's about $7.00 per bottle. Upon close examination is looks like
nothing more than peeled ginger coarsely chopped and slathered in sugar.
How far off the mark am I??

You are off by about 8 hours of cooking the ginger in a sugary syrup.

arthur wouk

-----
>Does anyone know how to make preserved ginger? I've also seen it called
crystalized ginger. It is small chunks of sugar-coated ginger and the
texture is quite chewy. If you have a recipe for this I would appreciate a
copy.

From: Eve Dexter (evedex@hookup.net)
Scrape and cut into 1/4 inch slices enough non-fibrous young Ginger root to
make 1 quart. Put the slices into a large non-aluminum pat and cover
generously with water. Bring slowly to the boil an simmer, covered until
tender (20 min). Add 1 cup sugar and stir until the mixture boils. Remove
from heat.
Cover and let stand overnight at room temperature.
Recook, simmering gently for about 15 min (after coming to the boil). Add 1
seeded sliced lemon and 1 cup light corn syrup. Uncover and simmer 15
minutes longer, stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat and let stand covered overnight.
Bring the mixture to the boil again and add 1 cup sugar and simmer for 30
min STIRRING CONSTANTLY (burns easily). Add 1 cup sugar, bring back to the
boil and remove from heat.
Cover and let stand overnight again.
In the fourth cooking, bring the mixture to a boil once more. When the
syrup drops heavily from the side of a spoon, and the ginger is
translucent, pour the mixture into sterile jars and seal. This yields about
5 cups.
If you want Candied ginger...drain the ginger after the last cooking.
Reserve the syrup for flavoring sauces and allow the slices to dry on a
sheet or better still a rack, overnight. When well dried, roll in
granulated sugar and store in tightly covered glass jars.

-----
From: albersa@aztec.asu.edu (ANN ALBERS)
Before grilling a thick whitefish, I sometimes coat it with this mixture:

1 cup orange juice
1/4 cup honey
1/2-inch gingerroot, chopped very fine
Sweet but tasty.

Slivered macadamia nuts or almonds may be sprinkled on after the fish comes
off the grill.

-----
From: jdtrach@islandnet.com (Julia Trachsel)

This is a great recipes which I always make in our cool, rainy season out
here on the west coast. Hope you enjoy it as much as my family and guests
do.

Gingerbread

1/2 cup shortening
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg beaten
1 cup molasses
2 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 teas. baking soda
1 tbsp. ginger
1 tsp. allspice
1 tsp. cloves
1 cup boiling water
1 cup raisins (optional)
1 cup crystalized ginger, chopped

Cream shortening, sugar, add beaten egg and molasses. Add dry ingredients.
Add boiling water, mix well. Add chopped crystalized ginger and stir
gently. Pour inti 2 small greased loaf pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60
minutes. A skewer inserted into the middle should come out clean when the
gingerbread is done.

My personal twist to this recipe is to add 1 cup of crystalized ginger
(instead of 1/2 cup) and to serve it with hot lemon pie filling which has
been extended by adding enough extra water to make it pourable.

==========

2.26 Anise

Latin name:
Pimpinella anisum - this is aniseed, and that's the plant covered here.
Illicium anisatum (I.verum) - this is star anise.
=====
2.26.1 Growing anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Anise is an annual herb native to the Mediterranean- Egypt, Greece, Crete,
and Asia Minor. It is a rather fussy herb; it likes perfect weather of
uniform rainfall and temperatures. It wilts under excessive heat but
requires full sun, and it does not transplant well.

Propagation is by seed, and be sure the seed is fresh. Seeds need a
temperature of 70F to germinate, and will germinate in 7 to 14 days. Sow
1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in light, well-drained, medium-rich sandy soil. A pH
of 6.0 to 7.5 is best. Space 3 inch seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart.

=====
2.26.2 Harvesting anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest seeds as soon as the tip of the seed turns gray (they should not be
black), anywhere from 60 to 130 days after planting, depending on climate.
Since Anise is an annual, collect seeds either by pulling up the entire
plant, or by just cutting the tops off. Spread plants to dry. Thresh.

=====
2.26.3 Using / preserving anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Use fresh leaves as a garnish or flavoring for salads. They can be cooked
as a pot-herb.
Flowers are occasionally dried and powdered as a flavoring for wine.
Seeds are used in bread, pastries, cookies, vegetables, baked apples,
applesauce, cheese, desserts, plum jam, brandy, cordials, and milk. 1/2 to
1 tsp per 4 quarts of potato or lentil soup, 1/2 tsp crushed in salads.
Use ground anise seed quickly, it loses its strength fast.

==========

2.27 Borage

Latin name: Borago officinalis
=====
2.27.1 Growing borage
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Borage is a very hardy annual native to the Mediterranean. It grows to 2
feet tall, or even 5 feet in rich soil, and has beautiful blue flowers. It
is an extremely tolerant plant, doing well in average and poor dry soils
(pH between 5 and 8), but it is difficult to transplant due to its tap
root. It is a good plant for container culture, planted in a large tub with
smaller herbs arranged around the edge.

Borage is easily grown from seed. Plant 1/2 in. deep (about the time of the
last frost outdoors), seeds will germinate in 7 to 14 days. Plant in full
sun or partial shade, thin 18 in. to 2 feet apart. To encourage leaf
growth, supply rich moist soil. To encourage flowers, hold the fertilizer
and give plenty of sun.

Leaves give off sparks and pop when burned due to nitrate of potash.

=====
2.27.3 Using / preserving borage
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Fresh leaves are best, but can be dried. Harvest leaves for drying as plant
begins to flower. Dry very carefully - quickly, good air circulation, and
with no overlapping of leaves. Flowers can be dried to add color to
potpourri.

Fresh leaves and flowers have a spicy, cucumber-like taste and an
onion-like smell. Young leaves or peeled stems are good chopped in salads,
or leaves can be boiled as a pot-herb. The flowers make a colorful addition
to salads and a flavorful addition to lemonade. Add borage to cabbage-type
vegetables, gravies, or spiced punches. In some areas of France, the
flowers are dipped in batter and fried. Flowers can also be candied.

Borage Flower Tea: handful of fresh leaves steeped in 1-2 quarts of water,
add one or two sprigs of spearmint. Makes a refreshing summer beverage.

Borage and Rosemary Wine: Steep a handful of fresh rosemary (or 2
tablespoons dried rosemary) and 2 tablespoons dried borage leaves in one
bottle of white wine for a week or more. Strain through cheesecloth or a
paper coffee strainer.

Candied Borage Flowers: Brush flowers with lightly beaten egg white, then
dip in superfine granulated sugar. Spread to dry.

-----
From: Pat Peck <arpeck@FREENET.SCRI.FSU.EDU>

Borage vinegar

1 1/2 cups fresh borage flowers (I add a little of the stem and leaves for
more intense flavor), wash and blot dry.
4 cups white wine vinegar (do not use distilled white vinegar)

Place in large jar. (I use mason jars with plastic over jar lip under lid).
Heat vinegar to just before boil. Pour into jar. Stir. Place in dark place
for 3 to 4 weeks. Go by and stir from time to time.

P.S. You can cheat and add a tiny drop of blue food coloring if not blue
enough.

==========

2.28 Horehound

Latin name: Marrubium vulgare
=====
2.28.1 Growing horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound is a perennial native to the Mediterranean and northern Europe,
and is naturalized in the United States. It is a good border plant and
doesn't require much attention, but is sometimes winter-killed.

Horehound prefers a poor, dry sandy soil, and tolerates a wide pH range-
all the way from 4.5 to 8.

Horehound is easily grown from seed sown in shallow holes in fall or early
spring. It can also be propagated from stem cuttings, root divisions, or
layering. Space seedlings 8 to 15 inches apart.

=====
2.28.2 Harvesting horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound flowers from June to September, but not always in its first year
as plants that are grown from seed may take two years to bloom. Harvest the
leaves and flowering tops in peak bloom, they are easy to dry, or can be
used fresh.

=====
2.28.3 Using / preserving horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound tea, cough syrup and candy: (Dried leaves may be used for tea.)
Strip leaves from plant, chop into measuring cup. Measure out twice as much
water as leaves. Bring water alone to boil, then add horehound. Boil for
five minutes, let cool, and strain into jars. Refrigerate resulting
infusion until needed.

To make tea: Add twice as much boiling water as horehound infusion. Sweeten
to taste.
To make syrup: Add twice as much honey as horehound infusion and a little
lemon juice.
To make candy: Add twice as much sugar as horehound infusion, and add about
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar per cup of infusion. Stir to dissolve, and
cook over low heat until the hard ball stage (290F) is reached. Pour into
buttered plate. Break into pieces when cool.

==========

2.29 Marjoram and oregano

Latin names:
sweet marjoram: Origanum majorana (former: Majorana hortensis)
oregano or wild marjoram: Origanum vulgare
pot marjoram: Origanum onites
another oregano: Origanum heracleoticum
Dittany of Crete, hop marjoram: Origanum dictamnus
mexican oregano (verbena): Lippia graveolens, not a true oregano. Grown in
Mexico.
The latin names are subject to frequent changes... like with Mentha sp.
Those botanists can't seem to make up their minds.
The 'marjoram' mentioned below is Origanum majorana. The rest are lumped
together under 'oregano'.
=====
2.29.1 Growing marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram grows as an annual up to two feet tall in most parts of the United
States due to climate, but it is a perennial in its native north Africa,
Portugal, and southwest Asia.

Marjoram prefers a light, fairly rich, well-drained, slightly alkaline
soil, with a pH from 7 to 8. It like full sun.

Marjoram is easily grown from seed that is sown in spring, or by cuttings
taken in the summer. It can be induced to be perennial by overwintering
indoors in pots. When grown indoors it has a tendency to trail that makes
it good for hanging baskets. Marjoram makes a good companion plant for
eggplant, pumpkin and zucchini.

The genus Origanum contains about 20 species, of which five are common in
herb gardens. Oregano (O. vulgare) is a perennial, native to Asia, Europe,
and northern Africa. Pot marjoram (O. onites) is a close relative of sweet
marjoram that is native to the Mediterranean, and O. heracleoticum is
native to southeast Europe.

Oregano grows to 2.5 feet tall, and flowers from late July until September.
It is a sprawling herb and is therefore not well suited for growing
indoors. Pot marjoram grows to two feet tall, and neither it nor dittany of
Crete are hardy in cold climates. Dittany of Crete grows to one foot tall,
blooms in summer or autumn, and like Pot marjoram, grows as an annual in
cold climates. Dittany of Crete grows well indoors due to its small size
and its flavor is very similar to that of common oregano.

Oregano likes light, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with full sun.
Rich, moist soil makes the aroma and flavor of oregano weak.

Oregano can be grown from seeds, stem cuttings, or root divisions, but
seeds are sometimes slow to germinate. Also, plants grown from seed may not
be true to the flavor of the parent plant, or may even be flavorless.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for cauliflower but should not be
planted with broccoli or cabbage.

=====
2.29.2 Harvesting marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram: harvest the leaves as soon as blooming begins. They dry easily
and can be frozen, but some people believe that drying the leaves actually
improves the flavor, making it sweeter and more aromatic. Its flavor when
fresh is closer to that of oregano.

Harvest oregano leaves as plants begin to bloom.

=====
2.29.3 Using / preserving marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram is great in tomato dishes, and with meats, onions, brussel
sprouts, or mushrooms.

Oregano is good with potato salad, fowl stuffing, peas, soups, scrambled
eggs, omelets, tomato dishes, meats, beans, deviled eggs, spaghetti, chili,
hamburgers and pizza. It is essential to Italian, Spanish, and Mexican
dishes, and combines well with basil.

Chicken Corn Soup with marjoram

2 cups chicken stock
2 cups chopped potatoes
2 cups fresh corn kernels
2 cups chopped cooked chicken
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh marjoram
salt and pepper

Bring stock to a boil, add potatoes, cover, cook until potatoes are barely
tender. Add corn and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in chicken and marjoram, add
salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about another 10 minutes.

==========

2.30 Caraway

Latin name: Carum carvi
=====
2.30.1 Growing caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Caraway is a hardy biennial native to Europe and western Asia. It grows to
2 1/2 ft. tall. Caraway like full sun, and does well in dry heavy clay soil
that has a moderate amount of humus (pH between 6 and 7.5). It doesn't like
having its roots disturbed.

Caraway is easily grown from seed that is sown in either early spring or in
the fall. Seeds planted in September will flower and produce seed the
following summer. It occasionally matures in the third summer of growth.

Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 in. deep, they will germinate in 7 to 21 days, or
more. Space seedlings 12 to 24 in. apart.

=====
2.30.2 Harvesting caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest seeds as soon as they begin to ripen to avoid shattering of the
fruits. They ripen from June to August of the second year.

=====
2.30.3 Using / preserving caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Roots taste like a combination of parsnips and carrots, and they can be
boiled like a vegetable.
Young shoots and leaves can be cooked with other vegetables or can be
chopped into salads.
The dry seeds are used in rye bread, sauerkraut, cheeses, applesauce,
soups, salad dressings, apple pie, cabbage dishes, potatoes, and stew.
Seeds contain small amounts of protein and vitamin B.

==========

2.31 Catnip

Latin name: Nepeta cataria, Nepeta mussinii
=====
2.31.1 Growing catnip
-----
From snielsen@orednet.org (Susan L. Nielsen):
To all catnip culture hopefuls... my own tale of woe.

I guess the point was mainly to grow it for the cats, but I had anticipated
waiting until the holidays and using it for gifts.

The first time, I naively plunked the catnip among the mints and
pennyroyals. The poor little transplant never pushed its roots out from the
pot-shaped ball they came in. The neighbor cats ripped it out of the ground
and played football with it all afternoon -- this I judge from its
condition when I arrived home from work the second evening.

Silly me, I thought then that a bit of wire would keep the cats off it. I
tenderly re-planted the invalid Nepeta with a bit of poultry wire arranged
over the top and staked into the soil. I have always wondered what happened
to the wire...

After this second violation, the plant did not look a likely candidate for
survival. In medical terms, its condition was 'grave.'

So I brought home another, and planted it in the top of a _large_, heavy
imported Italian terra cotta pot. Filled with soil, this pot weighs in at
about 75 pounds. Imagine my horror, when I returned home the following
evening, to find the pot overturned, the soil excavated, the catnip plant
nowhere to be found, but significant tufts of animal fur scattered among
the wreckage. It passed through my mind that this might not be an ordinary
cat at work, but, perhaps, Something Larger? The yellow tiger-colored hairs
did, however, suggest a domestic visitor over an apricot catamount.

I next (jaw set, grim determination in my eye) planted catnip in a plastic
pot hung by 3 chains from the cross-bar of the clothesline. With pliars I
closed the hook that passed through the eye of the bar. I arranged new
chicken wire over the top of the pot. I put cast-off barbed wire at the
base of the clothesline pole, and anchored it with iron stakes driven in at
angles. I stood back to admire my work. It looked like an industrial
construction project on the perimeter of a prison.

I have always prided myself on effective design in the garden...

On the following evening, I probably need not tell, the catnip had again
been ravaged. The scene was improbable. The pot, still attached by one of
three chains, hung at a debauched angle. Its contents had spilled into the
barbed wire at the base of the installation.
Among those wires were traces of catnip leaves, and quantities of yellow
and white fur, soft fur, tinged with spots of blood. Bits of perlite from
the potting medium clung to the red spots. The catnip, and the nipped cat,
were nowhere in evidence.

I adopted a philosophical outlook then, as I surveyed the result of the
day's work. I decided it might be a better thing to not grow catnip in the
garden.

SuN.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Catnip is a very hardy perennial that is native to the dry regions of the
Mediterranean, inland Europe, Asia, and Africa. Cataria grows to 4 feet
tall and somewhat resembles stinging nettle. Mussinii grows to 1 foot,
sprawls. It has a citrus-like scent and is sometimes called catmint. In
order to keep cats away from catnip avoid bruising the leaves, which
releases the oils. "If you sow it cats won't know it, if you set it cats
will get it," is an apt saying.

Catnip loves full sun but can tolerate partial shade, and does well in
almost any garden soil (pH between 5 and 7.5). It is more pungent when it
is grown in sandy soil with full sun.

Catnip is easily grown from seed, and can also be propagated from root
division. Plant seeds 1/4 in. deep or shallower, they will usually
germinate promptly. Space seedlings 18 to 24 in. apart, they transplant
fairly happily. (However, transplanting them brings them to the attention
of the felines.) Catnip grows well in pots and windowboxes, and even though
it is a perennial, it may have to be re-planted a couple times a year to
replace those plants ravaged by the cats.

=====
2.31.2 Harvesting catnip
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest as needed for fresh leaves. Harvest flowering tops for drying,
usually in July and September.

=====
2.31.3 Using / preserving catnip
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Catnip can be used to add an unusual flavor to sauces, soups and stews.

==========

3 Gardening

==========

3.1 Herbs for groundcover

Also see Growing chamomile, 2.7.1, above.
-----
From: jera@ksu.ksu.edu
I've found the following plants useful as groundcovers. Unless otherwise
noted, all are perennial, and hardy in my Zone 5 (north-central Kansas)
garden.

   * pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium
     Don't fertilize this regularly, it doesn't need the encouragement).
     NON-EDIBLE.
   * lemon thyme, Thymus x citriodoratus
     Otherwise known as the thyme that ate Cleveland; semi-evergreen in my
     garden.
   * mother-of-thyme, Thymus serphyllum
     Semi-evergreen, turns a lovely bronzed-purple color in the winter.
   * caraway thyme, Thymus herba-barona
     Used in the late Middle Ages to flavor baron of beef, hence the name.
     A very low, flat, spreading plant with a fascinating fragrance &
     flavor.
   * oregano thyme, Thymus sp.
     Grows much like mother-of-thyme, wonderful oregano scent and flavor.
   * common thyme, Thymus vulgaris
   * Aztec sweet herb, Lippia dulcis
     Low, sprawling annual; odd, resiny scent; it's supposed to self-seed
     readily, cuttings root fairly easily.
   * oregano, Origanum vulgare
     May be a bit tall for a groundcover, especially after 2-3 years;
     spreads vigorously; attractive flowers.
   * germander, Teucrium chamaedrys
     NON-EDIBLE but fun, a broadleaf evergreen; great for rock gardens and
     retaining walls; attractive flowers.
   * mints, Mentha sp.
     These may be a bit tall for many uses, but for a moist spot that's
     hard to mow, or that washes out frequently, give them a try - I've
     found that the candy-scented varieties are somewhat less invasive.
   * chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile + Matricaria recutita
     These don't grow well in my area, it's too hot and dry; one is annual,
     one perennial.

-----
From mflesch@mail.coin.missouri.edu (Mary A. Flesch):
I can't believe no one has mentioned the mint family in this group. At my
last house, I planted a tiny spearmint plant to have in iced tea (I'm
originally from Louisville, KY and was also planning on juleps). By the
time I moved 2 years later, I was able to dig it up and give to four
friends while still leaving plenty for the new owners!

==========

3.2 Herbs you can't get rid of (= easy gardening)

-----
Also see Growing horseradish, 2.20.1, above.

From: ecoli@cix.compulink.co.uk (Peter Harris)
Marigold and nasturtium. Just sprinkle a few packets around and your only
future problem is thinning them down each year.

From: HeK
Then there are the mints, horseradish, and comfrey. Both should be planted
in containers which are dug into the ground to avoid them taking over the
garden, and to make it possible to get rid of them if you decide to.

==========

3.3 Tall herbs

-----
From: ecoli@cix.compulink.co.uk (Peter Harris)
Fennel is the obvious one, the tinted variety is nice although I only have
the ordinary. Really good fun is Lovage, it can be huge. It is known in
Germany as the "Maggi Herb" and is a constituent of that proprietory food
enhancer. It has a pretty strong "dark" taste and was used to "extend"
stews. I.e. it made a stew taste as thought there was more meat in it than
there really was !

Latin names: Lovage = Levisticum officinale. Fennel = Foeniculum vulgare.

==========

3.4 Herbs for shade

-----
From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts)
sweet cicely and woodruff are two i've had good luck with, in heavy shade.
most culinary herbs prefer full sun. those that are shade tolerant, as a
general rule, are not as heavy on flavor.

From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Many of the broader leaf herbs will grow in the shade, especially the ones
that tend to bolt. A good example of this is cilantro or parsley.

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3.5 Growing herbs indoors

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> I love cooking with fresh herbs so I tried growing my own. I planted
basil, chives, dill, and parsley in June. The chives are doing fine.

From: Catherine A Hensley <hensley@lims1.lanl.gov>
I have bad news. The chives will eventually begin to look sickly, because
they will become root-bound and they will also be expecting a cool spell.
When this happens, remove them from the pot, break off a chunk of plant and
roots, and move these to a new pot. Then put them in the refrigerator for a
week or two, and then back out on the window sill.

> The basil is OK; however, it is not growing as tall and thick as I had
imagined. I suspect that it needs more sunlight.

Basil that needs more light tends to get leggy--long spindly growth and few
leaves. Is that the problem? Another possiblility is that the basil is
root-bound. How large is the pot, compared to how large the
plant is? If the pot is in danger of falling over from the weight of the
plant, or if the plant is dropping leaves, move the whole thing to a larger
pot.

> My parsley looks like it is dying a slow death. It is not really growing,
and the leaves near the bottom have yellowed and sort of mushed into the
soil! Did I overwater? Is it the temperature? I keep the AC on.

Parsley in the soil grows a long tap root, like a carrot (same family). In
a shallow pot, it can't do that, so the root splits into many thinner roots
and go around and around the pot until it runs out of soil. Yup, root-bound
again. Next time try to find a narrow but deep pot.

> My dill looks about the same as the parsley. I know I should not have
planted it in the summer. It went to seed almost immediately. Should I
throw it out? Is there anything I can do?

Going to seed immediately is a sign of stress, although I don't know if
dill usually has a tap root too. Anyway, as an annual herb, it's now past
its prime and can't be made to get young again. <g>

> Should I not be growing these herbs inside? Are there any herbs or
peppers that are good to grow indoors? If so, what are they, and when
should I plant them? I am especially interested in cilantro, mint, and
jalapeno peppers.

In spite of its problems, many people grow parsley inside, so that's okay.
Dill grows to about 3 ft, so that is probably not a good choice. Basil is
good, but it is an annual, so expect to sow some more as the seasons pass.
I grow rosemary inside successfully, but before I gained some experience I
killed three in three years. Peppers can be grown inside, but they like
bright light, and in order to have fruit the flowers must be
hand-pollinated (not as hard as it sounds, sometimes you can just thump the
flowers with your fingertip to encourage self-pollinating). I also grow
lemon-scented geranium and ginger inside over the winter, although they
live outside during the summer.

Anyway, good luck

Catherine

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3.6 Growing herbs from cuttings

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> Has anyone ever tried to root lavender before? I am trying it and I'm not
quite sure if I'm doing it right. I have taken long woody stems from my
outdoor plant and have placed them in damp sand in potting pots indoors. I
believe I am just to keep the soil moist, is this correct? Also, how long
should it take before roots develope and I am able to transplant them?

From ceci@lysator.liu.se (Ceci Henningsson):
This is something about lavender that I wrote for rec.gardens some time
ago. It works well with most herbs. For particularly watery-stemmed plants
(think impatiens) putting them in a jar with water, like you describe works
well. If you add just a teeny-weeny pinch of rooting hormone to the water,
you'll be surprised at how quickly the cuttings develop lots of roots.

Lavender is one of the easiest plants (along with fuchsias) to take
cuttings from, so it's a good idea to start with them if you're not
familiar with the technique.

In addition to what you do, I do the following: I take fairly new stems and
pinch out the flower buds. New stems root easier than older, woodier stems.
For this reason cuttings are often taken in spring when there are lots of
new stems. If your cuttings fail now, try again in spring. (Disregard that
if you're in the southern hemisphere.) The reason I pinch out the buds, is
that I want the plant-to-be to concentrate on making roots, not on
flowering and setting seed. I cut the stem from the plant just above a leaf
pair, and then I cut the stem just below a leaf pair. It may seem wasteful
to throw a large portion of the stem in the compost, but it won't grow any
roots anyway (or at least not as easily as the part just below the leaves).
I also remove the leaves below soil level.

Start by watering the growing medium. I usually water it so that water
comes out at the bottom. That means it is fairly wet. Then I level the
surface before coming back to the cutting. I use what my local nursery
sells as "sowing soil". It is potting soil with 1/3 sand added.

Before I insert the stem into the growing medium, I dip the lower part (the
one that will be below the surface) in a rooting hormone, that will aid the
formation of roots. If you don't have any rooting hormone at home, you can
get it at your garden center. It doesn't cost much, and lasts a lifetime,
so it's really a cheap investment. Because you now have the powder on the
stem, you can't just push the stem into the growing medium, or you will rub
off the powder. Instead you poke a hole into it, and insert the stem. Make
sure there is contact between the stem and the growing medium. That is
called "firming in". Then I take a clear polythene bag, cut a few small
holes into it and put it over the pot. Place the pots in the shade. Too
much sun and heat will dry out the plants before they have formed any roots
to take up water with. Rooting usually takes a few weeks.

Some general advice:
* Think about hygiene. This is something to do on the clean kitchen
counter, rather than on the lawn, because you want to introduce as few
germs and fungus spores as possible. Since soil and plant material from the
garden carries a lot of microbes which are harmful to people (tetanus and
parasite eggs for instance), it's vital for your health that you clean the
counter afterwards. If you have a greenhouse or potting shed you can do
this in, that's probably the best place.

* Check on the cuttings from time to time. They won't need any water for
the first few weeks until they have formed roots if you have them under
plastic bags. You can see that roots have formed when there's new
(light-green) growth on the cuttings. Have patience and don't put them in
the garden at once. They need to be a bit more established first. I suggest
that, depending on the size of the pot you're using and how exposed to sun
and winds the site is, to wait for maybe 1 month after new growth is
showing before planting out.

* Place as few cuttings as possible in each pot. That way, if you get a
fungus infection in one pot, the whole lot won't be ruined. Also, use small
pots. Soil that is not "used" by roots has a tendency to get stale, and
that's something you have to avoid here.

* When planting out, remember that lavender plants get quite big, although
the cuttings seem tiny. I know from experience that it's easy to be tempted
into putting them quite close to each other.

This is getting to sound quite complicated, though, in real life, it isn't.
I've taken maybe 10 lavender cuttings at 3 occassions, and none of them
failed. Lavender cuttings seem particularly tough. Some times I've been
convinced that they had died when they were bone-dry, but they've always
come back to life with the help of some water.

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End of part 3 of 4
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--
Henriette Kress             HeK@hetta.pp.fi            Helsinki, Finland
http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed FTP: sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
      /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/
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