Subject: GLOWBUGS digest 466

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 04:33:04 GMT

GLOWBUGS Digest 466

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) BA/GB Net Thursday Night QRT 0200-0300Z QRG 3579R545
	by [email-masked]
  2) Availability of #30 tubes?
	by Art Winterbauer <[email-masked]>
  3) More regenerator tube musings.....
	by [email-masked]
  4) Vitamin bottle coil form basics
	by "Jeff Duntemann" <[email-masked]>
  5) Re: Availability of #30 tubes?
	by Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
  6) Source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets cheap --- where?
	by [email-masked]
  7) Re: Source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets cheap --- where?
	by "Deane D McIntyre"  <[email-masked]>
  8) Re6AQR  REGEN ???
	by [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
  9) Re6AQ5  REGEN ???
	by [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
 10) FS/FT: Collins PTO, Vacuum cap.
	by Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
 11) Colorburst Sprint Reminder
	by Conard Murray <[email-masked]>
 12) Re: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
	by "R. Eric Sluder" <[email-masked]>
 13) Re: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
	by "Bowman, Jim" <[email-masked]>
 14) Colorburst Sprint report
	by Conard Murray <[email-masked]>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 11:25:35 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] ()
Subject: BA/GB Net Thursday Night QRT 0200-0300Z QRG 3579R545
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Remember we share the 3579 QRG with the qrp folks and thursday nights
for the rest of this month is their sprint qso party between 0200 and
0300Z.  After 0300 or before 0200Z is fine for us though.  Grandma
Hartley qualifies as QRP, tho......(:+}}..... so I am covered if the
storms abate.  I hope to see you all on the band after 0300Z this
fine evening, and I will probably have ol' Grandma purring with the
detector and one step tuner in tow......  She did right fine last
night, even out to 1000 miles or so, and her HUGE 805 bottle fired
up like a lamp bulb puts her in fine style.  See ya there!

72/73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 08:25:29 -0700 (MST)
From: Art Winterbauer <[email-masked]>
To: glowbugs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Availability of #30 tubes?
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.95.970306081725.9405A-100000@spike>

I use a couple of #30 tubes in my homemade regen receiver.  I picked
up several of these at a hamfest last year (Sylvania-made) for $1
each. They look new. Does anyone know:

1) How long these tubes were manufactured
2) Any direct substitutions
3) Their availability on the market: scarce? plentiful?

Additional note:  the receiver has one stage of audio amplification. 
It seems that, in addition to using an extra wall of foil-covered
insultation behind the front panel, hand capacitance and stability are
further enhanced by shielding the audio tube (with no additional
benefit from shielding the detector).  Shielding consists of about 7
layers of kitchen foil wrapped loosely around the tube and clipped to
receiver ground with alligator clips. 

Art WA5OES

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 12:00:32 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] ()
Subject: More regenerator tube musings.....
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

I played around with the detector and one step again, last night, and
just don't like them thar teensieweensie baby tubes wats not got a proper
bakelite base.  They are very microphonic, way more so than the '30 and
a lot more than the '01A.  And, they don't glow so well either.....(:+{{.
Something to be said for reading the sensitivity of the tube by its fine
colore de fire.  Reading filament temperature by eye is almost a lost art.
Anyway, I tried the 12AU7/5963 tube last night, and it worked a little
better than all the other different dualtriodes.  If I had to place a bet
I would probably bet on it over the others as most controllable of the lot.

Mike wrote, after I had babbled in the wind.....

>From: [email-masked] (michael silva)
>Subject: Re: Regen Tube playings last nite.....

>Bob wrote: 
>>>...I put in a 12AT7 and WOW, what a tempermental beast!

>That doesn't surprise me too much, since the 12AT7 is a high gain tube 
>designed for TV/FM RF applications.  High gain and high frequency 
>capability always spells tempermental in my hands.

What I was hoping was that it was a controllable tube, or at least one
of the 9A based tubes was.  Of the lot, the 12AU7/5963 seems to be the
best to control easily using old time technology and circuits (tickler
feedback 20's stuff).

Also, the 12AT7 was used a lot in 60's/70's baby regens that are about in
the literature.  My guess is that it was used as the token replacement for
the 6SN7/6SL7 style thing of the 40's/50's.  In my hands, it is a beast
to tame, as well as I like a regen to behave.  I must have a smooth and
even edge of regeneration otherwise the selectivity is lost.  In comparison,
I put the 12AU7 up against the '30, and the '30 was controllable right down
to the edge of regeneration where sidebands were clipped easily, and 1AW
was reduced to qrp on the BA/GB net.  Alas, the 12AT7 did not allow me
to set the selectivity as close to the edge, so the best I could do with
it was to make 1AW appear like another 100 watt station on the side.
The 12AT7 popped into oscillation without that fine edge of control.

>>>...I need to make up 6SN7 and 6J5 adapters for comparison, probably
>>>to round out the middle era tubes.

>I'll be interested in your results for the 6SN7 and 6SL7 (also 6C8G and 
>6F8G <6SN7 innards> if you wire up an adapter for them, since they have 
>a nicer period look).  Also whether there's any difference between the 
>6J5 and 6C5. 

I hope to get them made up over the weekend, after I locate some octal
lockingring sockets that will fit into a 4 pin tube base.  I seem to be
a little sparce on those also, lately.  Time for hamfest digging.

>I wonder if there's a specific reason (such as the very narrow control 
>range you mention) that higher-gain triodes don't seem to have been 
>used much in regens.  For example, I've never seen the 6SL7 in a regen.

The higher gain tubes were used about equally with the lower gain ones.
It was mostly a function of availability, from what I can tell.  The
toy regen articles all picked the commonest tubes such as the 6SN7 or
the 12AT7.  Both should work, and do, theoretically and practically.
But, there is something in the design of the tubes of high gain that
makes it require a tad more finesse in the setup of the detector circuit.
In the audio circuits, they work equally well with the lower gain tubes.
I think the problem has to do with finding the best values of grid leak
and grid capacitor, plus the optimum values of tickler or tap to get a
smoother control of regeneration.  The plate voltage does not seem to
have much effect, since I varied the plate voltages from 12-60vdc and
the higher gain tubes were all hard on the edge of regeneration and
had pronounced clicks.  It may be that much less tickler and much more
throttle will soften the transition.  I have another set that uses 27/76
tubes that I need to try with the 12AT7 thing go see if it responds the
same.  On that one, I can regulate the tickler by variometer to put the
throttle at full 365pf and then set the edge using the variometer tickler.
I suspect that it may be that the hand-capacity effects I am seeing need
to be swamped with much greater throttle values on the high gain tubes.
Even moving the hand near the throttle control when using the 12AT7 was
enough to make it swing about 2-3 kc off the desired frequency setting.
On the low gain tubes, I shoot for 250pf as the edge of oscillation.
Perhaps on the high gain tubes it needs to approach 750-1000pf (maybe by
padding the 365pf throttle control) for best control.  I will have to
check that out.  It will require rewinding MUCH less tickler on the
high gain tubes, maybe only a couple of turns, as compared to the 10-15%
turns ratio of the low gain triodes.

The 6SL7 was used in about half a dozen different regen articles from the
40's and 50's, but mostly the more common 6SN7 was used.  There are not
a lot of 6SL7 tubes about, but there are tons of TV leftover 6SN7 tubes.
Some of the little portable sets used 6SL7's in the receiver and 6SN7's
in the transmitter end of the circuits, and that worked pretty well.

>Thanks for reporting your results!

I like doing the Experimentus Glowebuggius Funziesii bit.  It makes ham
radio FUN and rewarding, when the ol' regenerator cuts the flak that the
kenicayaswhooies have trouble with (and you have to hear it to believe it)!

73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 08:59:57 PST
From: "Jeff Duntemann" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hi gang--

Gathered my thoughts on vitamin bottles as coil forms and thought I'd
summarize here.

The current recycling craze has made it much easier to identify the type of
plastic used in a pill or vitamin bottle.  Most modern bottles have the
little recycle symbol stamped on the bottom, with a number in the middle of
the rounded triangle to indicate which plastic it is.  The newest ones also
have a short alphabetic abbreviation beneath the symbol as well.

Type 1 is abbreviated PETE.  Type 2 (the commonest for vitamin bottles) is
HDPE.  Does anyone here know what these are (long form) and what their RF
characteristics are?

The one to look for is type 6.  This is the ham's friend, polystyrene,
abbreviated PS under the symbol.  As far as I know it has the best RF
characteristics of any common plastic used in small bottles.  (Certain
types of teflon may be better but they don't make vitamin bottles out of
teflon.)  Of course, I've wound successful receiver coils on all kinds of
odd stuff, not excluding paper towel tubes and PVC pipe fittings, and
they've always worked.  But PS is the best.

For some reason, house-brand and off-brand "one-a-day" style multivitamins
seem to come in polystyrene bottles.  (I've also seen chewable C's in PS.)
Safeway had a house brand in a 250-unit bottle that fit an AES octal base
*perfectly*.  We've since seen 250-unit generic one-a-days (little red
pills) in identical PS bottles.  I suspect there is one outfit happily
providing no-name one-a-days to all the generic and house-brand vitamin
retailers, using the identical bottles.

Getting the sticky labels off vitamin bottles is a challenge.  You need
strong fingernails and LOTS of patience.  Get a nail under one corner and
pull S  L  O  W  L  Y.  It might take twenty minutes (really!) but you'll
get a neater form that you can use for years and years.  Of course, you can
wind over the label and it'll still work.  But I'm really anal about labels
on coil forms.

I've found that the Wal Mart house brand vitamins have labels that come off
more easily than any of the others.  The bottles are the same as anywhere.  

Many vitamins now come with a foil seal that leaves a foil ring around the
neck of the bottle when you break it.  Use a pocket knife and get rid of as
much of that foil as you can.  If you leave it there it becomes a shorted
turn.

To attach an AES black bakelite octal base to a vitamin bottle, first drill
two holes on opposite sides of the pill bottle neck, then insert the base
and wiggle a pencil onto the base through the holes in the neck.  Then
drill and tap the base for a 4-40 machine screw.  BE CAREFUL drilling and
tapping bakelite; it's extremely brittle and brooks no violence or
excessive force. Also, don't tighten down the screws too hard once you put
them in.  You just want to immobilize the base in the form.  You're not
building a battleship.

Remarkably (and non-obviously) the most miserably difficult part of
assembling a regen coil is getting all six wires into the pins on the octal
base!  Two tips: Leave yourself LOTS of extra wire coming out of the coil
form.  AND: Stagger the lengths of the six wires.  Don't make them all the
same length.  That way, you thread the longest wire through a pin, then the
next longest, then the next longest, and so on, aiming only one wire at a
time.  Once the wires are all threaded through the pins, fasten the base to
the form with the two 4-40 machine screws.  Use brass screws if you can.

Using #400 emery cloth, remove the enamel from the wires for about half an
inch right outside each base pin.  Then push about 1/8" of the stripped
wire back up into the tube and solder the wires to the pins.  Be careful
with those wires while you're removing the enamel.  Don't break 'em--or
you'll have to dismantle the whole thing and maybe even remove a winding
and re-wind it to give yourself sufficient leader to connect to the pin
again.  That's why I suggest not soldering *any* wires to their pins until
*all* of them have been scraped clean.  (Does anyone detect the voice of
bitter experience here?)

This makes a nice, tidy regen coil on a pluggable base for which we will
have sockets way longer than the older 6-pin or 4-pin style.  (Octal relay
sockets will be with us yet for many years and are still being made.)

--73--

--Jeff Duntemann KG7JF
  Scottsdale, Arizona

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 16:24:01 +0000
From: Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Availability of #30 tubes?
Message-ID: <19970306162358.AAA19899@LOCALNAME>

At 03:20 PM 3/6/97 +0000, you wrote:
>
>I use a couple of #30 tubes in my homemade regen receiver.  I picked
>up several of these at a hamfest last year (Sylvania-made) for $1
>each. They look new. Does anyone know:
>
>1) How long these tubes were manufactured
>2) Any direct substitutions
>3) Their availability on the market: scarce? plentiful?
>
>Additional note:  the receiver has one stage of audio amplification. 
>It seems that, in addition to using an extra wall of foil-covered
>insultation behind the front panel, hand capacitance and stability are
>further enhanced by shielding the audio tube (with no additional
>benefit from shielding the detector).  Shielding consists of about 7
>layers of kitchen foil wrapped loosely around the tube and clipped to
>receiver ground with alligator clips. 
>
>Art WA5OES
>
>
>
All be it known:  The 1H4G is IDENTICAL to the old '30 except the tube has
an octal base.  Also the 1G4G/GT is also identical except it has a 1.4 volt
instead of 2 volt filament.  (Actually handier if you use dry battery
power!)  Also don't overlook the '19
and the 1J6G and 1G6G/GT.  These are all "dual" '30's with heavier filaments
(draw
twice the current)  The '19 and 1J6G being identical except for the base,
the 1G6G/GT having a 1.4 volt filament.
        I have used the 1J6G very successfully as a one tube detector/AF
amplifier receiver with a minimum of parts.  I haven't experimented much
with "heater" types
like BA Bob has to find the best triode in more modern tubes for use as
detectors.

73,
E. V. Sandy Blaize, W5TVW
"Boat Anchors collected, restored, repaired, traded and used!"
417 Ridgewood Drive,
Metairie, LA., 70001
[email-masked]
**Looking for:  860 tubes, WL-460 tubes, RK-18,20,28 tubes**
**Butternut HF2V antenna, G-R test gear.....................***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 13:03:51 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] ()
Subject: Source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets cheap --- where?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Anyone know of a good source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets reasonably
cheap, lately?  I could probably use a few of the black plastic ringmount
style in 4/5/8 pin styles, and then the standard 7 and 9 pin mini sockets.
What is available, anymore that does not eat one out of house and home?
Also, other than the breadboard octal relay sockets, are there any old
style breadboard octal sockets available anymore?  Even the relay sockets
are getting a tad pricey.  Alas, my stocks are being used up (actually,
I rarely kept mini tube sockets because I have not usually needed to use
them --- prefer octals or 4/5 pinners when I can get them --- minis are too
new for 20's regenerators but I feel an urge to create a 50's/60's beast
optimized for modern tubes so I probably need to find a few for adapters
and metal chassis mounting them thar mini thingies --- gotta tame that
12AT7 regeneratoisches detectore, ye know....).  Pointers appreciated.

73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 11:15:17 -0700
From: "Deane D McIntyre"  <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets cheap --- where?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

In message <[email-masked]>  writes:
> 
> Anyone know of a good source for 4/5/7/8/9 pin tube sockets reasonably
> cheap, lately?  I could probably use a few of the black plastic ringmount
> style in 4/5/8 pin styles, and then the standard 7 and 9 pin mini sockets.
> What is available, anymore that does not eat one out of house and home?

I recently brought a batch of tube sockets from that old standby,
Fair Radio Sales, at a reasonable price.

I got the following: (page 11 of Fair catalog):

Bakelite Ring Mount Octal Sockets at 40 cents each NOS (said used in cat.)
Minature 7 and 9 pin molded 35 cents each NOS
6-prong (6C6/6D6/41/42 size) used fiber 75 cents each

No 4/5 pin sockets nowever that I could find.

No, I don't own stock in Fair Radio........

> 73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

73, Deane D McIntyre VE6BPO
[email-masked]
http://deane.bio.ucalgary.ca/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 13:45:30 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re6AQR  REGEN ???
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

>Hi gang

Heard about 63n7's ,12au7/s 30's o1a's and lots of other det s for
regens.  The schematic I got from one of you all calls for a 6aq5
as a detecter/ whaT ABOUT IT DO IT WORK gud or no?.  You all got 
me wondering should I change my design?  Pse let me in on your
vast knowledge of regen dets!!!!

Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!

Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)

68yr old semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and coordination)
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 13:47:58 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re6AQ5  REGEN ???
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

>To: gb
>From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
>Subject: Re6AQR  REGEN ???
>
>>Hi gang
>
>Heard about 63n7's ,12au7/s 30's o1a's and lots of other det s for
>regens.  The schematic I got from one of you all calls for a 6aq5
>as a detecter/ whaT ABOUT IT DO IT WORK gud or no?.  You all got 
>me wondering should I change my design?  Pse let me in on your
>vast knowledge of regen dets!!!!
>

Sorry abt last post typo in sub.

Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!

Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)

68yr old semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and coordination)
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 20:40:56 +0000
From: Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: FS/FT: Collins PTO, Vacuum cap.
Message-ID: <19970306204049.AAB24896@LOCALNAME>

                Collins 70H3 PTO pulled out of a piece of junk test gear.
(Was working when removed) S/N 6071.  This one is an odd frequency range,
like 1.5-2.5 Mhz or so.
Offers?
        Vacuum variable capacitor, used- pullout, 3/8" shaft, 10-500 pf. $50
shipped in CONUS.
                I am open to trades.  Currently looking for a set of B&W
"TVL" or "HDVL"
tank coils for 160/80/40/20 meters and a matching swinging link/jack bar.  Also
a set of "JVL" coils for 160/80 meters.

73,

E. V. Sandy Blaize, W5TVW
"Boat Anchors collected, restored, repaired, traded and used!"
417 Ridgewood Drive,
Metairie, LA., 70001
[email-masked]
**Looking for:  860 tubes, WL-460 tubes, RK-18,20,28 tubes**
**Butternut HF2V antenna, G-R test gear.....................***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 14:44:00 -0600
From: Conard Murray <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Colorburst Sprint Reminder
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

OK guys and gals .... I want you ALL to get in there and show these folks
that we are not just a bunch of lumps sitting in the dark watching our
heaters glow. This is a fun event and I am planning on being there! I want
to see you post your results here too .... so don't be left sitting there
tomorrow wishing you took part, get in there tonight and have fun!
73,
Conard WS4S 

>>The fifth night of the Colorburst Sprint is this Thursday, 3/6/97, from 9-10PM
>>EST. Participation last week was very strong with many stations running 
>>crystal-control and/or tube transmitters. The Colorburst window last week 
>>ranged from about 3.577 to 3.580 and was very busy for the entire hour. 
>>Stations able to do so are encouraged to tune around their transmit 
>>frequency for responses from stations running fixed crystal-control. Don't 
>>forget that the Colorburst Sprint presents a great opportunity to get 
>>contacts with that Pixie or 80-9er rig, and you may get the opportunity to 
>>work a QRP glowbug station, as members of the Glowbug list will be joining 
>>us for this event. 
>>
>>After the Sprint has closed at 10PM EST, I will switch to 3.686 Mhz and
>look for
>>QRP contacts. I modified this year's transmitter to offer 3 crystal
>frequencies, 3.560,
>>3.579 and 3.686 Mhz. 
>> 
>>Attached with this note are the rules for the Colorburst Sprint. 
>>
>>Hope you can join us!
>>
>>72 de Ted, KF8EE
>>NE404
>>
>>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Announcing the :
>>
>>QRP-NE  (QRP Club of New England) 
>>
>>    79er SPRINT
>>   ------------
>>
>>When:  Each Thursday evening during February and March, 1997
>>
>>Modes:  CW - Crystal and VFO Control
>>
>>Freq:  ~ 3.579 MHz   
>>
>>Power Level - 5 Watts or less output power
>>
>>Time:  9:00 - 10:00 p.m. EST  
>>
>>Exchange -  RST QTH NE#X NAME;     ie.....579 OH NE404X Ted
>>
>>Members use QRP-NE number; NE404 and add X if XTAL control; NE404X
>>Non-members use Power Level; 4W and add X if XTAL control; 4WX 
>>
>>QSOs are cumulative:  Work the same station on subsequent Thursdays.
>>Score: QSOs X SPC. Crystal Station Bonus: Total score X 1.5. 
>> 
>>The 79er transmitter was NE-QRP's first club project. It uses a 
>>3579.545 kHz crystal to set the frequency. These crystals are used in 
>>the colorburst oscillator of all color TV sets in the United States 
>>and Canada, and in other devices as well.
>>
>>The 79er event is an on-the-air get together, not a contest. 
>>Crystal-controlled stations append the letter "X" to their calls, 
>>such as "KF8EE/X." Yes, it's legal. We hope this event will stimulate 
>>everyone to build a crystal-controlled transmitter to use during the event!
>>
>>   Send Logs to:      Ted Albert, KF8EE
>>                             1924 Timberidge Drive
>>                             Loveland, OH  45140
>>     (or)
>>
>>   e-mail Logs to:    [email-masked] 
>>
>>Logs need to be received by April 30, 1997. Results will be published 
>>in "72". State Output Power Level, Type of Rig, and Antenna Type on logs.
>>Include comments on the event or how you built your crystal-controlled
>>transmitter for inclusion in the report in "72".
>>
>>
>>Watch out: W1AW transmits bulletins at 10:00 pm. on 3.581 MHz
>>
>>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>Transmitter Reference articles:
>>
>>In case you were wondering, "79er" comes from 3.579 MHz
>>
>>Articles abound on building a simple crystal-controlled transmitter 
>>for 80 meters.  Try the "Universal QRP Transmitter", page 26 of 
>>"Solid State Design " (ARRL), or "The Oner" (Sprat), or "The Cubic Incher" 
>>(ARRL), or "The 79er"/"Colorburst Special" (QRP-NE).
>>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.
>. Conard Murray  WS4S    Glowbugs listowner .
>.  217 Dyer Avenue        [email-masked]  .
>.   Cookeville, TN  38501  615-526-4093     .
>.    <><  Wise men still seek Him  ><>      .
>. Member Arizona ScQRPions      QRP-L # 993 .
>.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.
>
>
.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.
. Conard Murray  WS4S    Glowbugs listowner .
.  217 Dyer Avenue        [email-masked]  .
.   Cookeville, TN  38501  615-526-4093     .
.    <><  Wise men still seek Him  ><>      .
. Member Arizona ScQRPions      QRP-L # 993 .
.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 15:47:11 -0800
From: "R. Eric Sluder" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Jeff,

I'm a big recycler and find a lot of other uses for plastic bottles of
all shapes and sizes.

I thought I'd share with you and the group a trick for removing labels. 
When trying to get labels off I've found a product called, Goo Gone. 
This stuff is citrus based and will remove about any glue used on
labels.  I found it at a local hardware a couple of years ago, but since
then I've seen it at national chains like Target, K-mart in their
cleaning supply section.  This stuff is powerful, but sometimes requires
a couple of applications to get the glue completely off.  Just follow up
with some dish soap and water to and you're good for the go.

That's my two cents worth.

73,

Eric Sluder, KB9BGS
Carmel, IN

P.S. thanks for sharing your tube diagrams.  They work real well with
Visio Home!

<snip>
> Getting the sticky labels off vitamin bottles is a challenge.  You need
> strong fingernails and LOTS of patience.  Get a nail under one corner and
> pull S  L  O  W  L  Y.  It might take twenty minutes (really!) but you'll
> get a neater form that you can use for years and years.  Of course, you can
> wind over the label and it'll still work.  But I'm really anal about labels
> on coil forms.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 15:22:00 -0800
From: "Bowman, Jim" <[email-masked]>
To: Multiple recipients of list <[email-masked]>,
Subject: Re: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
Message-ID: <c=US%a=_%p=ATK%l=ATK/MPLS/[email-masked]>

I agree with Eric. Goo Gone is great stuff. I have also had very good
luck using the old lighter fluid (same stuff as Energene cleaning fluid)
to get sticky goo off things. Be careful, of course, because of
flammability, and be sure it won't harm the material being cleaned,
although I almost never have a problem.

The first problem sometimes is just getting the label off before you
even get to the goo removal stage. Some labels can be incredibly hard to
get off. I faced this problem while trying to remove old stickers off of
a boat. I found that if I heated the sticker with a hot air gun, it
softened the glue enough to be able to remove the sticker without too
much trouble. Maybe the label on a pill bottle could be heated with a
hot air gun or hair dryer enough to get the label off, but not so hot as
to damage the plastic bottle, etc. Then the remaining goo could be delt
with as above.

Hope this helps.

73,

Jim W7HPK
[email-masked]

 ----------
From: R. Eric Sluder
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Re: Vitamin bottle coil form basics
Date: Thu, Mar 6, 1997 12:49PM

Jeff,

I'm a big recycler and find a lot of other uses for plastic bottles of
all shapes and sizes.

I thought I'd share with you and the group a trick for removing labels.
When trying to get labels off I've found a product called, Goo Gone.
This stuff is citrus based and will remove about any glue used on
labels.  I found it at a local hardware a couple of years ago, but since
then I've seen it at national chains like Target, K-mart in their
cleaning supply section.  This stuff is powerful, but sometimes requires
a couple of applications to get the glue completely off.  Just follow up
with some dish soap and water to and you're good for the go.

That's my two cents worth.

73,

Eric Sluder, KB9BGS
Carmel, IN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 22:29:54 -0600
From: Conard Murray <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Colorburst Sprint report
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hi everyone,
I worked W3KC, K9NO, N8ET and WJ4P. I also heard W5TVW calling, but I
couldn't get his attention since I was rockbound and he was about a KHz
below me. I also heard a few other stations down the band that were not
listening off their frequencies when I was calling them. I was using the
Viking II at 3 to 5 watts, the SP-600 receiver and the 160M Marconi.
It sounded like a nice informal contest, but I only heard one other
rockbound station. The guys with VFOs were kind enough to give us rockbound
fellows some room though. I found that the Marconi actually works on 80 now
that I brought the wire right into the shack and tossed the coax feed.
Next week, I will go with VFO control and see if I can get more than 4 stations!
I hope to hear more GB stations on next week also!
73,
de Conard WS4S
                       Z U T
 
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. Conard Murray  WS4S    Glowbugs listowner .
.  217 Dyer Avenue        [email-masked]  .
.   Cookeville, TN  38501  615-526-4093     .
.    <><  Wise men still seek Him  ><>      .
. Member Arizona ScQRPions      QRP-L # 993 .
.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.

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End of GLOWBUGS Digest 466
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