Subject: GLOWBUGS digest 467

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 04:33:23 GMT

GLOWBUGS Digest 467

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) QRP Colorburst Sprint --- almost....(:+\\.....
	by [email-masked]
  2) Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
	by [email-masked] (Robert L Stolzle)
  3) Greetings fellow regenerator lover.
	by [email-masked]
  4) 6AQ5 AS DET.
	by [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
  5) More Regenerator Shielding Musings.....
	by [email-masked]
  6) THE CAKE PAN 5 !!
	by "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
  7) Re: Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
	by "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
  8) Bottle labels
	by "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
  9) Re: Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
	by Jim Hydzik <[email-masked]>
 10) Re: Headfone (tin can) polarity
	by Kevin Pease <[email-masked]>
 11) lots of work
	by [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
 12) Re: lots of work
	by Jeffrey Herman <[email-masked]>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 10:05:09 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] ()
Subject: QRP Colorburst Sprint --- almost....(:+\\.....
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

I played around a little before the sprint with Grandma Hartley and Twinnie
Triode, and had some fun working a couple of the QRP brethren.  I did not
hear Conard, and did hear Bill, and after the sprint worked a tail end
on Dennis and Dale (Dale is 1 mile from me so I can hit the buzzer set
without an antenna and still qso him fine.....(:+}}.....).  I did work
Mike up in CA qrp/qrpba, so the band was hot.  Hope to hear a few more
of the crewe on this weekend, and Grandma will be running hot and heavy
with Twinnie Triode in tow.  I may fire up Big Bertha, if the folks out
west of the Big Muddy can't hear me so well.  Anyway, it were fun to rattle
and bang with the 1925 station, and actually make a qso or two.... neat!
The firey light emitted by an 805 in Grandma's chassis is a fine sight.
Glowebuggeing can indeed be fun and beneficial to your psyche.

73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

Hint for the Day on tuning up old Hartley Oscillators:

     Keep the coupling loose, and when you find the maximum output with
     loose coupling, roll the primary tuning condenser to a longer wave
     by a slight bit (to a decrease in output by about 10%) and that will
     help prevent any RAC note from taking over your signal.  Ol' Grandma
     Hartley gets a bit testy when her primary and secondary circuits are
     in exact tune, but sounds better than a sillystate box when detuned
     to a longer wave in the antenna by about 10% output on the field
     strength meter.  She loves that loose coupling into the antenna.
     Caveat.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 10:32:32 EST
From: [email-masked] (Robert L Stolzle)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hello All,

I want to thank Brian, AF4K, Bill, N5BU and Ranson, W4WYK, for the info
about the Swan 400. 

Thanks Bill, N5BU for the suggestion about the Heathkit  rigs. I will
keep those in mind.
Also thanks to Kevin, WB0JZG for the info and suggestion about the Drake
rigs. I have heard
that Drake is quality gear. I just may try to find a good Drake rig. I
know none of the old rigs
have the quality  QSK that I am used to with these Ten Tec rigs but that
is expected. Really don't
know what I would like to have but I feel like when I run into it I will
know that is the one.

The only stuff I am familiar with is the Viking Ranger and Valiant,
Heathkit DX-100 that some of
my friends brought out to FD back in '59 and "60. My old rig was a
homebrew single
813 modulated by a pair of 811A's with a SX-100 receiver. Started out
with a DX-20 and  a
borrowed S-38D. Then got an S-85 and a Globe Chief 90A. After that I
built the 813 rig and traded the
S-85 for an SX-100. Used this set up for a while then had to sell the
SX-100 (needed the money, family
and kids) then picked up an old military Hammarlund Super Pro. Used that
a long time in mid 60' s on 75 meter AM back before the CBers came into
the picture. Would have liked that AM call back then. I still have a
soft spot for that good ole AM but because I missed CW was the reason I
got back into ham radio.

Yes, Roy, K1LKY, I am getting on the BA freq of 3579.5 with my Conar
model 400 that a friend gave me
a couple years ago in the original box complete unbuilt kit. I built it
and put it on the air as if I was a novice all over again. It is crystal
controlled and has a little chirp but I am not going to modify it since
it is an 
antique (to me anyway). Hey, great fun being a novice again. I was in the
first Colorburst Sprint but
haven't made any since.

Ranson, W4WYT, I thought long and hard about getting my old call back but
by the time the FCC window
opened I had grown to like this new call. Lots shorter on CW than K5QYY.
But have second thoughts from
time to time. Oh, what to do with 1500 custom made full color QSL cards
with AC5AM on them?

Thanks Brian for the kind welcome I already feel right at home with this
group. Hope I answered all those
that replied. 

73, 
Bob,   AC5AM   (ex. K5QYY, vintage  1958) (don't even know if that call
is still available)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 14:20:26 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] (), [email-masked],
Subject: Greetings fellow regenerator lover.
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

> Corne,
> I'm forwarding your message across town to Bob and
> will let him answer you himself. Thanks for writing and I
> hope you enjoyed Bobs photo tour!
> 
> Best 73
> /John

I will see if I can get him some info together.  There are several
folks that have asked me for regen info, lately, so I am making up
some master sets of basic information that I have found to be the
best of the available literature.  I am also bouncing this info
along to the Glowbugs mailing list.  Perhaps Conard should add
Corne to the list if he is not there, for a time and see if it
is helpful to him.  If he has an interest in regenerators, I am
sure he will be most welcome.

Bob

> >From: Corne Janssen <[email-masked]>
> >Subject: NA4G's homebrew firebottle gear
> >
> >Hi John,
> >
> >Are there any schematics available on NA4G's homebrew projects?
> >
> >I am especially interested in Bob's "very hot super-duper 2-tube 
> >signal-slicing regenerative receiver". 
> >
> >Greatings,
> >Corne. 
> >-- 
> >Oce Nederland B.V.             name: Corne Janssen            
> >P.O. Box 101                  email: [email-masked]           
> >5900 MA Venlo                  
> >The Netherlands                

Corne....  Nice to run into a fellow regenerator lover.  Although I
don't have specific schematics for the sets I build, because I build
from a generalized schematic tradition as a craftsman of old would do,
I will outline the parameters that you need to follow, and if you wish,
I will follow up with a letter and the hand-drawn schematic of that
particular set, plus some other info that may be of use on regenerators.

First, and most important, the loosest coupling possible is required for
any regenerative receiver.  I use a 1 turn link and no more for link 
coupling, and if I can, make that variable to reduce it further.  Good
coupling of a 1-turn link only needs about 1-2 inches of coupling, but
any amount that does not give reduced selectivity or make the detector
overload on strong signals or pull in frequency is fine.  That particular
set has a 1 turn grounded link wound around the bottom of the coil.  The
alternative is a small grid coupling capacitor (and I mean SMALL).  On
mine I use a pair of aluminum plates of 1/2 square inch spaced 1/8 inch
apart as the maximum size antenna coupling capacitor.  Anything more is
TOO much.  That value, by formula, comes out to about 1pf or close to it.

Second, and equally or slightly less important, is the use of a high
value grid leak and a low value grid capacitor.  Typically, old style
regen receivers used 100-250pf for the grid coupling capacitor and a
1-3 meg ohm grid leak.  I use a 10-20 meg ohm grid leak and a 10-20pf
capacitor, rather than the older values.  It works much better and
does not load down the tuned tank, and thereby maximizes the selectivity.
This is how I can cut the sideband off a sideband signal, easily, with
a regenerative receiver.  I am always suspect of a coupling cap greater
than 50pf and a grid leak less than 5 meg ohms.  On my tank circuits,
I prefer to use the largest number of coil turns possible and the 
smallest tuning capacitance and padding capacitances possible (usually
a single plate 25pf tuning capacitor is more than plenty, and the
band edge setting capacitor is only about 10pf variable.  That maximizes
the tank inpedance, reducing the loading effect on tank Q, and generates
larger voltages across the detector grid circuit.

Third, use a LARGE value of throttle condenser to control the feedback.
I use a 365pf throttle condenser with a series rf choke and an appropriate
feedback tickler coil for the 36 vdc plate voltages that I use.  I adjust
the regeneration feedback by the number of turns of tickler such that the
set will just begin to oscillate with about 250pf of throttle condenser.
That way regeneration is easy, smooth, and the transition is not subject
to a pop into oscillation.   That makes the selectivity optimized for
right on the edge of oscillation.  One can use tapped electron coupled
oscillator (Hartley style oscillator) detectors, but I prefer tickler
circuits, usually, myself.

Fourth, I use choke coupling or transformer coupling (when I have the
requisite 3:1 to 9:1 audio interstage transformers available) into the
audio stage.  Usually, the transformers are not available so I wind up
with a 10-100h choke coil (any value greater than 10h will do fine) and
a coupling capacitor suited to pass low frequency audio (around 0.1 to
1.0ufd).  I find it advantageous to tune the audio choke with a parallel
capacitor of anything from around 0.01 to 0.05 ufd to make the choke
resonate at the tin can headphone frequency of choice (anywhere from 300
to 1000 cycles).  The audio stage uses a grid leak of around 10K-470K
(check for optimum value --- i.e., loudest signal with least distortion
although distortion on CW is not bad and actually helps to make the
signal easier to hear and copy).  The headphones, if not transformer
coupled, are choke coupled in a similar manner out of the audio stage.
I prefer old style tin cans with large diaphrams of about 3 inches in
diameter (7cm or so or larger is best).  But, if you want to hear the
maximum selectivity, use good high quality 600 ohm phones that will
work down to 300 cycles or less, and you can actually hear the passband
narrow down to that level, on the edge of regeneration.  I find one
stage of audio is usually plenty sufficient for earsplitting volume
on W1AW and the locals and great for DX copy of QRP out to 1000 miles
or more.  Two stages of transformer coupled audio will require some
means of uncoupling the antenna still further to reduce the signal.
That can be good as it tends to further increase selectivity and
reduce detector overloading.  The use of a volume control is not
necessary, but could be done on the second audio stage.  Usually
audio stages are run wide open and the rf input is changed to
accomplish volume control in regen receivers.

Fifth, use a metal panel or mount the parts at least 6 inches behind
a non-metal panel (i.e., bakelite or acrylic plastic or such).  The
farther behind the panel you put things, the less hand capacity is
present.  Also, use insulated couplings where possible, and ground
the dial mechanism and the capacitor rotor shafts.  I use both types
of panels, but like the old style plain black panel and wooden baseboard.

That particular set was mounted on a 3/8 inch plastic base mounted on
rubber stoppers, and a 1/8 inch black acrylic plastic panel with a
thin sheet of grounded 1/32 aluminum behind the panel to reduce hand
capacity effects.  All the RF parts were mounted on the back edge of
the base.

That is how I build them...... basically, use a pattern in mind and
optimize the design, in hand, as it is being built.  The schematics
are not at all critical and have been around since the 1920's.  The
art and craft of it is making the parts work together to give an
optimized design for the components at hand.  I usually use the above
``Rules of Thumb'' as they are called and that makes for a fine
regenerative receiver, that is stable, sensitive, and selective.
I am still amazed at how well these things do work, even today.

73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
[email-masked]

p.s.  Our Glowbugs mailing list is currently free, and you can get it
      by sending an email to [email-masked] who is he listowner,
      and he can help you with further particulars.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 13:54:56 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: 6AQ5 AS DET.
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Didnt get many answeres  to my question does a 6aq5 
power pentode make a good regen det.  I need a det that will go into
osc smoothly.  Oh yes how much plate and screen volts to use?

Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!

Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)

68yr old semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and coordination)
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 15:19:59 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked] ()
Subject: More Regenerator Shielding Musings.....
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Whilst on the thought of regenerator shielding and tube availablilty.....

Art Winterbauer <[email-masked]> thoughtfully mused and pondered.....

>I use a couple of #30 tubes in my homemade regen receiver.  I picked
>up several of these at a hamfest last year (Sylvania-made) for $1
>each. They look new. Does anyone know:

>1) How long these tubes were manufactured

My recollections would suggest from about 1928 through WWII.  That is
as close as I can come.

>2) Any direct substitutions

There are about 15 or so direct pin-for-pin base subs, taking voltages
into mind.  The 00 and 01 series were the predecessors.  There may
have been a '15 type that fit.  The '20 should fit.  The '40 and '50
both fit.  The '71 fits.  There were several 800 series tubes that fit
but they were mostly transmitting tubes, and there were some 1600-2000
series tubes that fit and one or two in the 6000 and 8000 series.
Most were transmitting tubes, though.  I have a complete list from
a little TungSol book about 3 inches square with every basing and every
type of any particular basing up through the 1950's, when it was printed.
A very worthwhile book if you ever find one at a hamfest.

>3) Their availability on the market: scarce? plentiful?

They are not plentiful, but not on the scarce list, yet.  The military
used many of them in WWII in various pieces of test gear and small rigs.
Thus, many are in surplus.  I would rate them about half as scarce as
the '01 series.

The '30 and '01 series tubes are what I think of generically as the 50's
6SN7 or 6J5 style tube.  In the 60's that was the 6C4 and 12AT7.
By the way, any old triode will sub with the proper wiring into a 4 pin
generic classic triode base like the one on the '30.  Most such subs will
work fairly well, but some tend to be overly sensitive.  But, that little
'30 is a very nice performer in regens.  The 1H4 and related 1.5 volters
are the 40's equivalent battery tubes, and there is no mini battery
triode of the 50's/60's that I can find, other than the submini peanut
tubes.  Just remember to keep yer filaments at the right voltages, and
you may need to compensate low/high resistance in the filament rheostats
if you get to power triode subs for '30s.  One time I subbed an 801A
for a '01A and it worked pretty well, aside from draining the filament
battery.....(:+}}.....

>Additional note:  the receiver has one stage of audio amplification. 
>It seems that, in addition to using an extra wall of foil-covered
>insultation behind the front panel, hand capacitance and stability are
>further enhanced by shielding the audio tube (with no additional
>benefit from shielding the detector).  Shielding consists of about 7
>layers of kitchen foil wrapped loosely around the tube and clipped to
>receiver ground with alligator clips. 

Well said!  Behind the panel shielding is very important in a good regen,
although I use it or don't use it on mine, depending upon how parts are
laid out.  Even as early as the 1915 Siemens Spark tuner that a friend
has, they used copper sheeting behind the panel reduce body capacity, and
lined the wooden box with copper sheeting for more shielding.  Almost all
of the wooden boxed military/commercial regen receivers from marine use
were lined with some sort of copper shielding or foil shielding.  All of
the airways regen receivers (both air and ground) were metal boxed.  But,
interestingly, most of the Army air and ground units were wooden boxed.
Shielding will help, and is usually a good idea, but not always mandatory
in the average run-of-the-mill ham radio regenerative set one finds.
Unshielded sets are more AC hum pickup prone in the open breadboard
unshielded panel set compared to a boxed up one or your tube shielded one.
The shielding does further reduce hand body capacity to pleasant levels.
One part of the reason that I used large throttle condenser values (250pf
or more) is to help reduce the net effect of a few pf of body capacity.
That will often get around the need for a panel shield if I don't have
a piece of aluminum of the right size handy.

That is a neat use of builders insulation(?) as a panel liner.  Plain
tin foil works pretty well, but you need strips to hold it down in place.
The tube tinfoil shield is simple and would be great as long as nothing
shorted out.  My guess is that there may be enough metal tube shields,
even from the early era to be found at hamfests and the like, for folks
to use if they do some digging in the boxes under the tables.  In lieu
of the originals, creative regen shielding with Mom's kitchen tinfoil
is a great idea.  Also, things like tin cans of various sorts work well,
too.  Alas, the classic pound coffee can is no more.....(:+{{.....
That used to make a great tube shield for vfo's and regens and growlers.

>Art WA5OES

73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 14:30:40 +0000
From: "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: THE CAKE PAN 5 !!
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Anyone here tried this little rig?

The "CWCP-5" is a 5 watt transmitter using a 6AQ5 with plug-in coils,
and it is COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE as a kit or you can build from 
scratch. It was featured in the December 1996 issue of Electric 
Radio, and I have that article also available for you to read right 
off of the INTERNET if anyone is interested.

It is at:

http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/hamfiles.htm

You just do a CLICK for each page and then save the file so you can 
read it later, OR print it out while you are on line if you wish.

It looks like a great little rig, and WB1EYE, Carl and his buddies 
have come up with a winner of a rig that should inspire many hams to 
try homebrewing and kit building with tubes all over again, and
hopefully inspire some of te newer young ops to have a try too!

This xtal controlled rig has a built-in 120V AC power supply, current 
LED "meter" and key-click filtering.

It uses plug-in coils for 80, 40 and 30m and maybe even 160m as well.
I have ordered one which is on the way to me so it should be here in 
a few days. Quite a few people are trying this little transmitter!

It comes as a complete kit for $99.95 or fully assembled for $149.95
There is also an "ECONO-KIT" for $49.95 which Carl can tell you 
about, but it includes a pre-drilled chassis, crystals, and the 
complete,  pictorial instruction manual.

I hope that these  little rigs will cause many new 5 watt glowbug 
signals to pop out of the ether on 3579 and 7050 etc. soon!

If you don't have a web browser and you'd like more information, you 
can write to Carl and ask for a copy at:

Radio WB1EYE
Vintage Radio Kit and Components co.
Carl Gelormini
427 N. Main Street
Sharon, MA 02067

(617) 784-0847

********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
**  E-mail to:  [email-masked]                         *
*** See the great ham radio resources at:              *
**  http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/                         *
********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 17:08:59 +0000
From: "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hey Bob - great job of introducing yourself! I used to delight in 
listening to the 80m AMers in England as a boy in the 1960s,
and later worked some AM over here as G3XLQ/W4
with a Knight T-60 using about 30 watts of screen mod AM!
What fun!
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
**  E-mail to:  [email-masked]                         *
*** See the great ham radio resources at:              *
**  http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/                         *
********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 17:08:59 +0000
From: "Brian Carling" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Bottle labels
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Someone wrote:

Getting the sticky labels off vitamin bottles is a challenge.  You
need strong fingernails and LOTS of patience.  Get a nail under one
corner and pull S  L  O  W  L  Y.  It might take twenty minutes
(really!) but you'll get a neater form that you can use for years and
years.  Of course, you can wind over the label and it'll still work. 
But I'm really anal about labels on coil forms.

Sounnds like a personal problem!! But in any event, STICKY LABELS are 
more easily removed by either:

1) Soak 'em in warm water for a while, or

2) With some of the newer adhesives used on labels, you can heat them 
up first with a hair dryer and SLOWLY peel them off from the corner.
If they still tear somewhere along the way, start again from the 
opposite corner and you may be able to get the rest off successfully. 
Technique #2 has helped me a LOT with re-using 3.5" diskettes I 
acquired.

I don't recommend #1 for most things!
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
**  E-mail to:  [email-masked]                         *
*** See the great ham radio resources at:              *
**  http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/                         *
********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 18:21:13 -0500
From: Jim Hydzik <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Swan 400, Drake, Heathkit rigs es K5QYY etc.
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hi Bob,

  I've been watching your thread on older equip. and just wanted to pass
along my 'hurrahs' for the Drake equipment.  I've owned darn near everything
in ham radio since 1960, including a Conar, and the Drake is superb,
especially for the current prices.  I'm using a Drake R-4 and an R-4B in
parallel off the same feedline to listen to 2 QSOs at the same time on the
same band, like 2 AM QSOs around 3885 Kc.  If you want QSK, look for the
Johnson Electronic T-R switch.  No, mine's not for sale :)

>that Drake is quality gear. I just may try to find a good Drake rig. I
>know none of the old rigs
>have the quality  QSK that I am used to with these Ten Tec rigs but that

    CW is the reason I never left ham radio :)

>I missed CW was the reason I got back into ham radio.

Still using HQ-150 for SWL work every day,   Jim  K3QIO  Delaware

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 19:18:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Kevin Pease <[email-masked]>
To: Multiple recipients of list <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Headfone (tin can) polarity
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

On Mon, 3 Mar 1997 [email-masked] wrote:

> On the thread of headphone (tin can) polarity and magnetization and
> demagnetization.....
> 
> 6.  If anyone has a good realistic way to remagnetize tin cans, it might be
>     worth trying to see if it makes any difference, on a weaker set if any
>     are around.  I have one pair of Western Electrics that are mostly dead
>     on one side but fine on the other, and the wiring is intact.  This one
>     might be a dud diaphram or a dead magnet, but I don't suspect the
>     magnet, right off.  Diaphram corrosion is more likely.
> 
One might try placing one of those nodibdium clorige 14,000 guase magnets
external to the cas and properly oriented to see if the headphone comes
back to life.

Just a thought

Kevin Pease
wb0jzg
Mount Juliet, TN.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 20:45:22 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: lots of work
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

>Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 01:26:06 GMT
>Errors-To: [email-masked]
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>Originator: [email-masked]
>Sender: [email-masked]
>Precedence: bulk
>From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
>To: Multiple recipients of list <[email-masked]>
>Subject: lots of work
>X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0 -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas
>X-Comment: Amateur Radio Equipment Using Vacuum Tubes
>
>Hi Gang
>
>Just finally finished mounting all the parts for my
>regen transciever.  Boy what a job,  3 var caps
>2 vernier dials 1 power trans 1 filter choke 1 filter cap.
> 5 tube sockets one for the vr tube. 2 pots 3 switches
> 2 indicator lights, a home made coil , coil base,
> rf indicator  and a panel meter.  I sure hope this
> thing works ok after all the drilling and filing I have done,
> Oh yes I forgot a output trans and a speaker.  Will try
> the 6aq5 tube as a det but if that does not work gud will
> go to a rf pentode. Finised painting the front panel,
> and tomorrow will start wiring it.
>
>
>
>Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!
>
>Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)
>
>68yr old semi disabled senior
>(stroke got my balance and coordination)
>play keyboard and sing
>music 1920's to 60'
>none of the 80'S- 90'S noise
>
>
>

Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!

Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)

68yr old semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and coordination)
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise

------------------------------

Date: 	Fri, 7 Mar 1997 15:58:39 -1000
From: Jeffrey Herman <[email-masked]>
To: Leon Wiltsey <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: lots of work
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95q.970307155636.17475C-100000@uhunix3>

On Fri, 7 Mar 1997, Leon Wiltsey wrote:
 >Hi Gang
 >Just finally finished mounting all the parts for my
 >regen transciever.  Boy what a job,  3 var caps
 >2 vernier dials 1 power trans 1 filter choke 1 filter cap.
 > 5 tube sockets one for the vr tube. 2 pots 3 switches
 > 2 indicator lights, a home made coil , coil base,
 > rf indicator  and a panel meter.  I sure hope this
 > thing works ok after all the drilling and filing I have done,
 > Oh yes I forgot a output trans and a speaker.  Will try
 > the 6aq5 tube as a det but if that does not work gud will
 > go to a rf pentode. Finised painting the front panel,
 > and tomorrow will start wiring it.

Hi Leon - I'll keep my fingers crossed that everything works!
Did you try it out bread-board fashion first?

73 from Hawaii,
Jeff KH2PZ / KH6

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End of GLOWBUGS Digest 467
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