Subject: GLOWBUGS digest 492

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 00:38:26 GMT

GLOWBUGS Digest 492

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Al scratch filler?
	by [email-masked] (Tom R. Rice)
  2) Re: Al scratch filler?
	by "Brian Carling (G3XLQ/AF4K)" <[email-masked]>
  3) Re: Al scratch filler?
	by Doug <[email-masked]>
  4) Re: Al scratch filler?
	by Kevin Pease <[email-masked]>
  5) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by "Cory Hine" <[email-masked]>
  6) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by BOB DUCKWORTH <[email-masked]>
  7) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by [email-masked] (michael silva)
  8) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by Dan Cox <[email-masked]>
  9) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by Dan Cox <[email-masked]>
 10) hum hum hummmmmmmm
	by [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
 11) Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
	by "Brian Carling (G3XLQ/AF4K)" <[email-masked]>
 12) Re: hum hum hummmmmmmm
	by Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
 13) Re: Al scratch filler?
	by [email-masked]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 17:21:00 -0800 (PST)
From: [email-masked] (Tom R. Rice)
To: [email-masked] (glowbugs)
Cc: [email-masked] (ba)
Subject: Al scratch filler?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

	Well, I'm not really a body-putty kinda guy, but
	I'm in a hurry to get my 6T9 rig on the air and
	am ready to paint the front panel, which, being
	made from scrap metal, has a couple of husky scratches
	in it, too deep to sand out.

	Can some kind soul suggest some suitable filler
	which will stick in place even after I spray on
	the paint?  Matte black will be the end color,
	just to hide the minor defects.

	Thanks in advance, WB6BYH     

-- 
"Start off every day with a smile and get it over with."  --W.C.Fields
Tom R. Rice  
[email-masked]     
CIS: 71160,1122       

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:09:35 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (G3XLQ/AF4K)" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Al scratch filler?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Why not use automobile body filler?
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
**  E-mail to:  [email-masked]                         *
*** See the great ham radio resources at:              *
**  http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/                         *
********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:17:58 -0700
From: Doug <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Al scratch filler?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Hi Tom...

I use that green colored "Spot Putty" that fills in little flaws in a
body job...after the Bondo goes on.  It comes in a nifty little tube
that can be cut to the right size for application and rubs on nicely.
It has a pretty short drying time, so dont be too specific when you
put it on, as it can be sanded easily after it sets.  It seems to me
the stuff is made by 3M and a couple other reputable outfits, and is
available at Napa stores.  I've used it to fill some nasty gashes in
a panel that was scratched badly.  And...if it's going to be flat 
black afterward anyhow, it'll work even better.  You can use more than
one application....it does shrink a touch as it dries.  Be sure to use
a good primer over it after you sand it down, otherwise there will be
a difference in texture of the panel under the paint, and it'll show.

So...that's it from here.  Good luck on your 6T9...it sounds like fun.
I started out to build a little GB rig and powersupply...ended up with
a General Purpose supply designed that'll run up to 300 watts and be
capable of running any sort of GB rig I'd like to build.  It's hard to
stay on track sometimes....but man, what a rig I could build!  Perhaps
a pair of 807's or something like that.

73 Tom

Doug, K7YD
Livingston, MT

Tom R. Rice wrote:
> 
>         Well, I'm not really a body-putty kinda guy, but
>         I'm in a hurry to get my 6T9 rig on the air and
>         am ready to paint the front panel, which, being
>         made from scrap metal, has a couple of husky scratches
>         in it, too deep to sand out.
> 
>         Can some kind soul suggest some suitable filler
>         which will stick in place even after I spray on
>         the paint?  Matte black will be the end color,
>         just to hide the minor defects.
> 
>         Thanks in advance, WB6BYH
> 
> --
> "Start off every day with a smile and get it over with."  --W.C.Fields
> Tom R. Rice
> [email-masked]
> CIS: 71160,1122

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:22:20 -0600 (CST)
From: Kevin Pease <[email-masked]>
To: "Tom R. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Al scratch filler?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997, Tom R. Rice wrote:

> 
> 	Can some kind soul suggest some suitable filler
> 	which will stick in place even after I spray on
> 	the paint?  Matte black will be the end color,
> 	just to hide the minor defects.
> 
Go to your local discount auto store and get some glazing filler. It is
usually in a tube like glue and is red when you pot it on also pickup a
sanding block and some 280-320 grit and around 600 grit sand paper. You
will also need something to spread the material. A putty knife works
good. Follow the instructions on the tube and spread the filler in the
scratches. Then water sand the whole panel with the block and the 280-320 
grit paper untill all of the excess glazing filler is removed and the do
the same again with the 600 grit wet. when you have things perfectly
smooth prime and paint with a finish of your choice. 

Makesure that you follow the instructions on the tube of glazing filler
to the letter or it will not work atol.

Your other option and a good one is to get some sanding filler and prime
the whole front panel and wet block sand it with 600 grip paper untill
smooth. You will remove the primer around the scratches and expose the
metal a few times untill the scratches are filled. Make sure that you
have a sanding filler and you let it dry 30 minutes or more before
sanding. This is probably better than useing the glazing filler.

You will end up with a perfect front panel. The block sanding wet is the
heart of the body mans trade. It is what makes your cars panels smooth
after you crumple them up in an acident. THe dolly, hammer and block are
the most important tools for a perfect job when doing body work.

That is actually what you are doing.

Kevin Pease
WB0JZG
Mount Juliet, TN.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 07:55:45 CDT
From: "Cory Hine" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

     NO, NO, NO!!!!!
     
     We want to see everyone continue to go on living!
     
     N2AQS

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Author:  [email-masked] at smtplink-dl
Date:    3/29/97 7:00 PM

Jeff wrote: 
     
>I know I'm going to feel the wrath of the list for even suggesting 
>this, but what about (carefully) running it off the AC mains?
>
>I think I'll run and duck for cover now...
     
Well, now that you mention it, I've wondered for a while now if using a 
GFI power socket would make such a practice safe enough to pass muster. 
 I don't know the details of GFI operation, other than that they are 
designed to sense and prevent the kinds of nasty zaps that one can get 
between the AC line and the rest of the (grounded) world.  Is there any 
informed opinion out there on the use of these devices to power 
non-transformered AC gear?
     
73,
Mike, KK6GM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:12:25 +0100
From: BOB DUCKWORTH <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

110V straight from mains is fine if you are careful.
Not having a transformer shouldn't stop you from
experimenting. Personally I'd put one in any 'finished'
project but for breadboarding.....

Another bread board option is to
rob power from another piece of gear.

Didn't WRL Globe make a DSB rig using sweep tubes and
voltage quadrupler from AC mains.
DSB 100 ????

Use a fuse of course.
Make sure your antenna and feed line are out of reach
and disconnect rig from antenna and mains when not using.

-bob
wb4mnf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:37:31 -0600 (CST)
From: [email-masked] (michael silva)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Cory Hine wrote: 
>
>     NO, NO, NO!!!!!
>     
>     We want to see everyone continue to go on living!
>     
But what exactly is it in my question/proposal (direct AC operation 
through a GFI socket) that would reduce the chances of going on living? 
Isn't that what GFI sockets are designed for?  Yes, I suppose they may 
fail, but are the chances of that any higher than that the insulation 
of my hamfest transformers failing?  If I understand things correctly 
there would have to be two failures to have a dangerous situation: 1) A 
miswired or otherwise incorrect 3-wire socket (causing a dangerous AC 
voltage to appear on the neutral pin), and 2) a GFI failure.  While I'm 
not particularly advocating such operation, I want to know what, if 
any, real and measurable danger would result.

73,
Mike, KK6GM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:19:19 +0000
From: Dan Cox <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Cory Hine wrote:

       NO, NO, NO!!!!!

       We want to see everyone continue to go on living!

       N2AQS

  ______________________________ Reply Separator
  _________________________________
  Subject: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
  Author:  [email-masked] at smtplink-dl
  Date:    3/29/97 7:00 PM

  Jeff wrote:

  >I know I'm going to feel the wrath of the list for even suggesting
  >this, but what about (carefully) running it off the AC mains?
  >
  >I think I'll run and duck for cover now...

  Well, now that you mention it, I've wondered for a while now if
  using a
  GFI power socket would make such a practice safe enough to pass
  muster.
   I don't know the details of GFI operation, other than that they are

  designed to sense and prevent the kinds of nasty zaps that one can
  get
  between the AC line and the rest of the (grounded) world.  Is there
  any
  informed opinion out there on the use of these devices to power
  non-transformered AC gear?

  73,
  Mike, KK6GM

 You could run the ac through a voltage doubler or quadrupler for higher
voltage.
It will work and if you come between an external ground and the line the
gfi should save you :).  If you think about it there's as much chance of
getting electrocuted when working on a radio or whatever going through
an isolation transformer because the potential still exists within the
unit.  Just not from the unit to ground(externally).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:24:28 +0000
From: Dan Cox <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

michael silva wrote:

  Cory Hine wrote:
  >
  >     NO, NO, NO!!!!!
  >
  >     We want to see everyone continue to go on living!
  >
  But what exactly is it in my question/proposal (direct AC operation
  through a GFI socket) that would reduce the chances of going on
  living?
  Isn't that what GFI sockets are designed for?  Yes, I suppose they
  may
  fail, but are the chances of that any higher than that the
  insulation
  of my hamfest transformers failing?  If I understand things
  correctly
  there would have to be two failures to have a dangerous situation:
  1) A
  miswired or otherwise incorrect 3-wire socket (causing a dangerous
  AC
  voltage to appear on the neutral pin), and 2) a GFI failure.  While
  I'm
  not particularly advocating such operation, I want to know what, if
  any, real and measurable danger would result.

  73,
  Mike, KK6GM

 Remeber! you can reach in your hv supply and get fried just as easily.
There's not a heck of alot of difference except the degree of toast you
want to be :)  You can get shocked off of something running a gfi as
well the potential still exists within the unit but not from the unit to
external ground.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:26:06 -0500 (EST)
From: [email-masked] (Leon Wiltsey)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: hum hum hummmmmmmm
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

The ripple on my b+ is .35v and it drive the 6sl7
nicely so I have hum.  Am using 75 mfd caps in filter now,
Wish the det put out a larger sig.  The most I can get
out of it is .25vac using my sig ben with mod. on.  If the det
output was higher I would not have a problem.  Trying different
voltages on 6aq5 det make no real diff in output.

Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!

Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)

68yr old semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and coordination)
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:23:33 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (G3XLQ/AF4K)" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was Re: The 6T9'er)
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

Dan, Cory and Michael.

I challenge you all to look for at least an ISOLATION transformer!!

For safety's sake, you really would be better off, ec=ven though 
reproducing the old "romance" of a line operated transformerless RX 
or TX may SEEM exciting, it will not be NEARLY as exciting as the 
feeling you will get roasting yourself on that 110V AC if something 
goes awry. You never know when Murphy will show up and surprise you!

I occasionally get some QRO (1 kW) isolation xfmrs here. I have a 
couple of them, but they are too big to ship economically....
I know they are out there CHEAP from surplus sources if you look.

I just don't want anyone dropping out of this list cecause they fried 
on 110V AC or went chasing hidden UFOs behind comets!

On 31 Mar 97 at 21:22, Dan Cox spoke about Re: Look Ma, no Xfmr! (was 
Re: The  and said:

> michael silva wrote:
> 
>   Cory Hine wrote:
>   >
>   >     NO, NO, NO!!!!!
>   >
>   >     We want to see everyone continue to go on living!
>   >
>   But what exactly is it in my question/proposal (direct AC
>   operation through a GFI socket) that would reduce the chances of
>   going on living? Isn't that what GFI sockets are designed for? 
>   Yes, I suppose they may fail, but are the chances of that any
>   higher than that the insulation of my hamfest transformers
>   failing?  If I understand things correctly there would have to be
>   two failures to have a dangerous situation: 1) A miswired or
>   otherwise incorrect 3-wire socket (causing a dangerous AC voltage
>   to appear on the neutral pin), and 2) a GFI failure.  While I'm
>   not particularly advocating such operation, I want to know what,
>   if any, real and measurable danger would result.
> 
>   73,
>   Mike, KK6GM
> 
>  Remeber! you can reach in your hv supply and get fried just as
>  easily.
> There's not a heck of alot of difference except the degree of toast
> you want to be :)  You can get shocked off of something running a
> gfi as well the potential still exists within the unit but not from
> the unit to external ground.
> 
> 
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
**  E-mail to:  [email-masked]                         *
*** See the great ham radio resources at:              *
**  http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/                         *
********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:02:22 +0000
From: Sandy W5TVW <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: Re: hum hum hummmmmmmm
Message-ID: <19970331230219.AAA9158@LOCALNAME>

At 10:06 PM 3/31/97 +0000, you wrote:
>The ripple on my b+ is .35v and it drive the 6sl7
>nicely so I have hum.  Am using 75 mfd caps in filter now,
>Wish the det put out a larger sig.  The most I can get
>out of it is .25vac using my sig ben with mod. on.  If the det
>output was higher I would not have a problem.  Trying different
>voltages on 6aq5 det make no real diff in output.
>

        The most 'critical' voltage on a pentode type regenerative detector
is the screen voltage.  The stage should regenerate at about 30 volts on the
screen.  If it doesn't
then the "tickler" winding will have to be changed, or if you are using a
"Hartley"
stage with a cathode tap, the tap will have to be changed.  Never mind if it
regenerates at say 25 or 35 volts.  But if it is 50 or higher, or less than
25 volts, then make tap or tickler changes.
        On the Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm......try the following:
        1.) "float" the heater supply (both sides above ground) and use a
small low-value pot (50-100 ohms) wired across the 6 volt heater line with
the slider grounded.  Adjust
for minimum hum.
        2.) Run the heaters off a DC supply.
        3.) Seperate the receiver chassis from the power supply chassis by a
couple of feet. (Get the receiver out of the AC field generated by the
transformers or chokes).
Regenerative receivers are VERY cantankerous and fussy about AC fields!
This was one of the reasons that the old '30 and '32 tubes were so popular
on battery power!
Also make sure all silicon rectifiers are bridged by a .01mf capacitor, and
you may have to install an RF choke in between the rectifiers and the filter
in the B+ line.
This was commonly done in the 1930's.  NEVER use mercury vapor rectifiers
(an 82 or 83) in a receiver power supply!

73,
E. V. Sandy Blaize, W5TVW
"Boat Anchors collected, restored, repaired, traded and used!"
417 Ridgewood Drive,
Metairie, LA., 70001
[email-masked]
**Looking for:  860 tubes, WL-460 tubes, RK-18,20,28 tubes**
**Butternut HF2V antenna, G-R test gear.....................***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:33:04 -0700 (MST)
From: [email-masked]
To: "Tom R. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Al scratch filler?
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>

    Hello,

    Had a thought here from my plastic and railroad modelling days.
    
    Rather than use auto body filler and such, you could try laying
    down a bead of standard 2-part epoxy on the scratches, then
    use a putty knife or such to remove the excess.  Follow up with
    a chisel X-Acto blade and handle to shave it down when hardened.  
    Sand smooth with emery and crocus cloth.

    Regards,
    Shane Wilcox

                   |\
                   | \
                   |  \   
                   |   \
                   |____\
            _______|__________      
            \                /      \o/
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     Shane <[email-masked]>               
   
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~               

                                                      

                                                                                                                                               

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997, Tom R. Rice wrote:

> 	Well, I'm not really a body-putty kinda guy, but
> 	I'm in a hurry to get my 6T9 rig on the air and
> 	am ready to paint the front panel, which, being
> 	made from scrap metal, has a couple of husky scratches
> 	in it, too deep to sand out.
> 
> 	Can some kind soul suggest some suitable filler
> 	which will stick in place even after I spray on
> 	the paint?  Matte black will be the end color,
> 	just to hide the minor defects.
> 
> 	Thanks in advance, WB6BYH     
> 
> -- 
> "Start off every day with a smile and get it over with."  --W.C.Fields
> Tom R. Rice  
> [email-masked]     
> CIS: 71160,1122       
> 

------------------------------

End of GLOWBUGS Digest 492
**************************