From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Jan 3 12:46:54 2003 Return-Path: <> Delivered-To: adamf@ibiblio.org Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by mail.ibiblio.org (Postfix) with ESMTP id 21D3924ADC7 for ; Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:46:54 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.12.5/8.12.5) with ESMTP id h03Fjr9V008596 for ; Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:46:53 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <200301031746.h03Fjr9V008596@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:46:52 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0107A" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Content-Length: 117301 Lines: 2542 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:55:55 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Odd Behavior MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen, Regarding ventilation: I cut an upper entrance, 3/8" tall X 1 1/2" wide, in the front edge of the inner cover, so that bees can go in and out of the colony via this entrance which is just under the front edge of the telescoping cover when the cover is pushed forward as far as it will go and this leaves a space about 1/2" wide between the inside edge of the cover and the outside face of the hive body. Only foraging bees use it and they "sort of" have to learn that it is there. It is MUCH MORE INTERESTING to me that the great majority of beekeepers do NOT have an upper entrance during the WINTER when it is so VERY IMPORTANT to get the damp air out of the hive that is created by the breathing of the bees. Research has proven that temperature is not very important or deleterious to a bee, but dampness can easily chill bees. Hence, all my colonies have an upper entrance as described above on a hive 365 days of the year. Although my area (near Washington, DC) rarely has snow or drifted snow deep enough to cover the front entrance of a colony, if it happens, the bees always have the upper entrance to use for cleansing flights and to keep the bees from smothering. Many years ago, we had a sleet storm that later froze and sealed the bottom entrance and the bees smothered and died. Mine did not, because of the upper entrance. However, this was quite unusual, but DAMPNESS from bee breath is ALWAYS present if there is no upper entrance, because the hot bee breath rises to the inner cover. I hope I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 23:02:21 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lucinda Sewell Subject: Bee graveyards MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hope this helps, I recently put a swarm inside my workshop. (Long story) I left a vent window open facing the entrance and they used it happily, they also did not reorientate to their original home a mile away (because I left the window closed for 48 hrs I think) Anyway they don't carry the dead bees out the window. I'm not sure if they are removed from the hive, or die just outside, but there are enough dead bees on the floor to smell bad. I moved the hive to the roof above the vent window and closed the window. Bees were reorientated 48hrs later (none going to window before hive) But they're my bees, so their memory is questionable... Observation is good, and tomorrow I'll be sweeping the workshop and will measure the bees, but perhaps the idea will work? Put the hive in a caravan, and collect the bees they drop. John Sewell ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:01:38 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob & Liz Subject: Re: Glycogen & Flight Times MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, Robert wrote: > > V B Wigglesworth was a - I would suggest the - the top > >scientist in insect physiology. When he says as Bob quotes, you can take > >it as reliable. If VBW said glycogen stored in *flight muscle* supports > >flight for only 10-20 minutes, you can infer that this animal indeed > >possesses the means to replenish that glycogen store several times daily > >(because we know bees typically fly many trips of 10-20min daily). If in response it be postulated that a bee can die from inability > >to fly owing to depletion of that glycogen store while far from the hive on > >a foray, I would then ask whether it can run on sugars from nectar gathered on that very foray. I would expect it to do so. Has this been examined? Wigglesworth says after the stored glycogen in the flight miscles is used up then the trehalose from the blood is the primary fuel ALONG with sugars from the honey stomach. With much of his research Wigglesworth gives exact data. Quote Wigglesworth 1984: "When foraging bees are taken from flowers, the sugar disolved in the hemolymph averages 2.6% (0.08molar). Blood sugar concentrations as high as 11.5%(0.35 molar) have been recorded. Should the concentration fall below 1%(0.03 molar), the forager is no longer able to fly. When bees feed on *rich* sugar solutions , they can fly as fast as 29km/h, while a dilute solution results in slower flight speeds (4-7 km/h)." I can go on and on quoting about glycogen. Mr. Winston is simply incorrect. The honey bee does not DIE after the glycogen in the flight muscles is used up. (as stated in previous post and in the quote from*The biology of the Honey Bee*) but uses the sugars in its blood and the sugars in its honey stomach ( which are gathered from flowers). The above is pretty elementary stuff. Maybe the original quote by Mark Winston is incorrect or taken out of context. According to Wigglesworth the sugar normally carried in the blood provides for 15 min. of flight or about 5.5 km distance. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:58:05 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Cal French Subject: Relatively safer insecticide? In-Reply-To: <200106300401.f5U41DP24161@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have an orchard of 60 fruit and nut trees and at one end I have five hives of bees. Over the past several weeks we have been invaded by small grasshoppers; they have apparently killed two first-year walnut trees and badly damaged a cherry tree. I could not repeatedly pick off or knock off enough grasshoppers to save these trees, so I sprayed the nearby trees most affected by the pests with insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acids) on a late afternoon with almost no wind, after my bees had mostly stopped foraging. (I am trying to use "organic" methods) Two days later the hoppers were back, so I tried parafinic oil. This part of the orchard is about 150 ft (50 meters) from the hives and long past bloom. I have seen no increase in bee mortality. But, I am wondering, what if the problem had occurred next to the hives? I can think of a lot of methods to try, but I would like to hear from people who have had some practical experience with methods that work. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 15:56:24 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Re: Fan Mail Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Allen Dick wrote (6/17/01): >When you see a great post on BEE-L and you can see that someone has taken some >time to research and write it, how about dropping a personal 'Thank you' to the >author (not the whole list). Thanks, Allen. I often get such "thank you" notes privately and very much appreciate the support for having taken the time and effort to post a message. It shows that some of those people out there have perhaps benefited from the effort. Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 [http://www.beesource.com/pov/wenner/index.htm] ******************************************************************** * * "The history of science teaches us that each time we think * that we have it all figured out, nature has a radical surprise * in store for us that requires significant and sometimes drastic * changes in how we think the world works." * * Brian Greene (1999:373) * ******************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 15:56:20 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Adrian Wenner-Did the colonies survive? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" John Edwards responded to my posting about our mailing 10 queens to Ohio for an experiment on why our feral colonies here manage to survive with no treatment of any kind, as follows (in part): >I'm not trying to open yet another can of worms, but we [in and near >Tucson] >have plenty of varroa-resistant colonies in this area, one of our >cooperators >is presently running forty (40) beeyards with them, the >methods to select for >them have been published several times, and yet >this seems to be fresh news to >many beekeepers. Thanks to John for that clarification. I was well aware of the fact that they are doing well on that score but did not mention it in my posting; it did not seem to me to be necessary. As I understand matters, the cooperative effort underway in the Midwest had considered getting queens from the Tucson area but instead wanted some from an area that has not yet had Africanized honey bees in the area. That seems to be the case for us. The queens survived the trip and are now at Michigan State under the care of Zachary Haung. Those queens were a motley lot, real mongrels --- of all colors imaginable. I wish that team all the luck. However, I did pose the following question to Gard Otis: "As I have suggested elsewhere, I wonder whether we now have different strains of bee pests and diseases in different parts of the country. That is, whereas our feral colonies here seem to thrive without treatment for anything, will they do that well when exposed to the "same" pests and diseases in other parts of the country?" He replied: "You echo my thoughts on this too. No one is looking! Except for terramycin-resistant AFB which is spreading quickly around N. America." [My apologies to Gard for using his sentence without permission.] Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 [http://www.beesource.com/pov/wenner/index.htm] ******************************************************************** * * "The history of science teaches us that each time we think * that we have it all figured out, nature has a radical surprise * in store for us that requires significant and sometimes drastic * changes in how we think the world works." * * Brian Greene (1999:373) * ******************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 22:48:49 -0400 Reply-To: "jfischer@supercollider.com" Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Fischer Subject: Pollination problem? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Peter Dillon asked: > ...Is it acceptable for the grower to expect that because the initial site > has been well pollinated that he (she) may then move that hive to the > new area - seeing as under normal conditions the hive would be at the > disposal of the grower for the first site and consider that it may do > the second site's pollination and here is the crux of the question! - > and claim that this may be done for the amount agreed for a pollination. I can offer my view, but I must admit to having been blessed with fair and honest clients who would never think of touching a hive without asking. There are two aspects at issue here - "Money" and "Care of Bees". In regard to "Money": There is clearly a disagreement over interpretation of the agreement, so the agreement must be unclear. You need a better agreement. I want to insure grower satisfaction, so we make a rough sketch of each orchard and enlist the grower's participation in a game of "X marks the spot" for hive deployments. With a map (or at least a description of WHICH field) attached to the contract, there is no question about where the hives go, and where the hives stay. In this case, I would have thought that the hives had been stolen. I would have called the sheriff, and scramble up more hives from the reserves (to fulfill the terms of the contract). I would leave it to the sheriff to decide what laws, if any, had been broken. The legal term for such actions would be "theft", or if one is being charitable, "conversion" under tort law. I would have a more understanding view of a grower who took it upon himself to move hives from one area to another within the same farm. I would have a whole different attitude towards a grower who called and asked first. Yes, I'd charge a fee for a 50 km "move", but no, it would not be another full pollination fee. Since the deed is a fait accompli, the reasonable thing to do is to respond with a bill for additional fees that are based upon the extra travel and work required to collect the bees. In regard to "Care of Bees": While there are sure to be quite a few growers who know as much (or more) about beekeeping than many beekeepers, the scenario described makes me wonder about how the hives were handled and moved. I am forced to assume that reasonable care was not taken in this case, since the first step in "reasonable care" would be to inform the owner of the hives that a move was being considered. >From a practical standpoint, It may be impossible to prove any "damage" to colonies, unless one or more colonies are dead. Overall: 50 km? Without even a phone call? He's gonna be lucky to find anyone to ever rent him a single hive ever again. There are lots of growers, and life is too short to put up with morons. So many blossoms, so little time. Bottom Line: Never work with a jerk. jim farmageddon ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 09:44:25 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rodney Farrar Subject: Combining two hives? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have two hives (one from a split and one from a swam both this year) that are still only one box each. Each has about 6-7 frames of brood should I combine the two or place a second box on each and see what happens? Thanks, Rodney in VA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 20:17:55 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: John Goodman Subject: AFRICANISED BEES IN HONDURAS! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" I have just returned from 2 months fieldwork in Central America (Honduras) and was surprised at how mild some of the Africanised bees were there. I was working all over the country with many diffierent beekeepers looking at more than a hundred colonies in many different apiaries at different times of the day. Mostly it was very hot (30-40 C) and often during the middle of the day and at various altitudes up to 2000m or more. In most cases I did not have to wear gloves - though I always had them with me! On the odd occasion it was also possible to work without a veil. Sometimes it was necessary to wear full protective clothing and to retreat, though generally this was in areas where honey robbing was frequent or exceptionally hot days around midday. Mostly, I just wore trousers and shoes without socks (because of the heat) with a good veil but no gloves (having rubbed my hands and wrists with green grass to remove some of the human odour and sweat). Is this normal in Latin America or is Honduras favoured with good tempered Africanised bees? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 20:29:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave and Judy Subject: Sharing Beekeeping Knowledge MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Beekeeper Friends. How often do we stop to consider the impression we make on the public as beekeepers? There have been a few threads about ethics, etc. My husband, Dave, and I are very aware of this impression. Quite often we do bee removals, swarm calls, and just get that nest of wasps out of here, please, type calls. It sometimes occurs to us that the cost of fuel for the auto is climbing, the cost of time spent becomes more dear as the years pass. Ahhh, if only grampa could see us now. But thanks go out to all of my Bee-L friends for adding to my knowledge and causing me to become the proud owner of a wonderful 'bee book library'. And then there is George (Imirie). I cannot tell you how many times this man has taken the time to answer, or force me to answer, some of my questions. He has YELLED at me almost as many times as my mother. But his willingness to share information, and force us to think, has been our local bee club's monthly topic for discussion many times. And Andy, also, was such a help, when he was around. Amazingly, the personalities of these two encouraged my reading of Bee-L. What a strange opening for a post. I would like to invite everyone to take a minute and visit our local beekeeper website. We have posted our 4h beekeeper entry into the NHB annual essay contest. Unfortunately, this essay was not a winner, at least monetarily wise. But, oh what a winner it is. I am so very proud of this essay. The writer was 14 years old at the time. (She is no family relation, just one of our 4h beekeeper members) Special thanks and recognition go to Dave Green for his wonderful website. Patricia (the essay author) visits it regularly. Many, if not all, of our 4h beekeepers are aware of beekeeping issues and the latest in beekeeping research. We are still working on a 'traveling bee show'. I told each of our kids that they must become an expert on some topic of beekeeping. And that they would be expected to accompany us to various presentations and be the 'expert' on their topic. And I promised them that they would never be expected to answer any question that was beyond their expertise. And, the best part, they would be excused from school for the presentation and travel time. Most of our 4h'ers have one or both parents that are interested in bees. You should have heard some of the comments that 'bet you didn't know'. I am constantly reminding these youngsters that THEY are the reason we do what we do. The essay pleases me more than you can know. Please enjoy it. Judy in Kentucky, USA http://home.fuse.net/backyardbees/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 10:33:22 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: Re: Relatively safer insecticide? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/2/01 3:48:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ccfrench@TCSN.NET writes: << Two days later the hoppers were back, so I tried parafinic oil. This part of the orchard is about 150 ft (50 meters) from the hives and long past bloom. I have seen no increase in bee mortality. But, I am wondering, what if the problem had occurred next to the hives? I can think of a lot of methods to try, but I would like to hear from people who have had some practical experience with methods that work. >> Unfortunately grasshoppers can migrate for miles, so they are one of the most damaging pests, when populations build up. Normally they are kept under control when the biological systems are healthy, but we are often at the mercy of our neighbors, because control must be regional, not just on one small property. Areawide spray programs backfire, simply because insecticides kill insects. One important predator that helps control grasshopper populations are the grasshopper hunter wasps, which are insects themselves. The way many people hate wasps, and go out of their way to kill them, it is no wonder we have lost the balance and have explosions of these pest insect population. I love to see the wasps and hornets browsing in my garden. I know then that they will keep the populations of caterpillars down and save me from spraying. Most wasps are either predators as adults, or parasites in the juvenile stages. If you must use insecticides (and often this is the only solution available, primarily because everyone else in the area also is doing so) you can protect the bees with a little thought. Bees will not be affected by insecticides unless they contact it. What is the means of contact? Most often it is by contaminated nectar and pollen. Sometimes it is by a direct hit as they visit flowers. This is why label directions focus on the bee at the flower, not the bee at the hive. Only fumigant type insecticides would kill a hive when sprayed directly on the hive, and agricultural sprays that are used outdoors are not fumigants. I have seen Sevin dust on the covers of hives, so thick that you could write your name in it, and the hives had very little damage. The application was made when bees were not in the applications area, in other words, there were no flowers in the application area. Think about this. Do you have clover under your fruit trees? If so, better mow the clover before spraying the trees. In fact, this would be required by the implications of the label directions. There is a flow chart at: http://pollinator.com/cotton/flowchart.htm which is designed for cotton, but works in other situations, with a little common sense. Dave Green No worms in my 'maters: http://pollinator.com/tomatoworms.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 13:47:17 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: Re: Sharing Beekeeping Knowledge MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/2/01 3:57:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Judy (dublgully@FUSE.NET) writes: << Special thanks and recognition go to Dave Green for his wonderful website. Patricia (the essay author) visits it regularly.>> Thank you for the kind words! <> Thank you for your work, Judy. May your tribe increase! On Judy's association website we find the story of Patricia's essay entry to the National Honey Board/4-H contest. Please, everyone read this essay from a 14 year old girl. But I quote from her web site: "We are proud to present our county entry to this contest. Unfortunately, this essay did not take the state title. (Some judges felt it was not "on topic". Add another item upon which we disagree) The essay was not entered into the NHB finals." Sad that "our" honey board is so far out of touch with reality that they considered this essay off-topic. Another good reason to disband the board.... The essay should have been a winner. Judy, if you association should decide to give a scholarship to this young lady, please let me know. I'd like to contribute. Perhaps others would too. Dave Green The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 14:06:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Brad Young Subject: Summer Splits Hi All, I did a search of the archives and found a handful of posts talking about summer splits, and a couple sounded very positive for the over wintering ability and success of summer split hives. I have had, so far, a pretty good first year of beekeeping and our flow is set to end sometime in mid July. I first of all will check for mites using the sticky board and Check-mite medication procedure and then I'm thinking about a possible split of the two hives. Both colonies are strong right now and have young queens. In the splits I would place newly purchased queens. I have a couple of questions: 1. Are summer splits a good or bad idea? 2. When I requeen the split, is it better to go with an Italian or Carniolan. This is not to start a "which race is better" argument but to see if the Italians are likely to build up faster during the summer (I would be feeding them) than the Carniolans, giving them a bigger colony going into winter and is this (a bigger colony) good or bad. Thanks, Brad ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 15:08:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Summer Splits MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Brad, > 1. Are summer splits a good or bad idea? This is a broader question than you realize. First, a verry common omission is you did not tell us where you are located! That issue aside, speaking from a yankee's point of view (I'm in upstate New York) I say summer splits can be a good idea in most years, but I'll never be able to tell you if it's a good idea this year until next year. If this winter is anything like last winter, I'd advise against it. But in most years a summer split will be a great hive next spring, provided it has ample time to build up, sets in good stores, raises a few generations of bees that will be your overwinter bees, goes into winter in good health, receives sufficient winter protection, has enough warm cleansing flight days and receives proper beekeeper attention if required during winter (feeding if stores run low). If your beekeeping skills are developed enough to address all these issues (and I've probably missed a few), then yes, by all means try a summer split. > 2. When I requeen the split, is it better to go with an Italian or > Carniolan. Italians will continue to raise brood long into the fall. They will not spend a lot of energy in winter preparations. You will have a large population of bees, but that large population may not be well prepared to overwinter, and a large population will have greated resource needs (stored pollen and honey) during the winter as compared to a smaller, better prepared population of Carniolans. Again, from a yankee's point of view I recommend the Carniolans. More specifically, New World Carniolans (check Sue Cobey's site for recommender breeders). I've had mixed success with summer splits. Most seasons they work well. Some winters they do not. I've had summer nucs build up so quickly that they swarmed in September, and they still survived the winter in great shape the following spring. I've had summer nucs look great in the fall and be duds in the spring. This isn't a one size fits all question, and is certainly not a one size fits all answer. Regardless of the success or failure of your summer split, the attempt will be a learning experience! However, if you're new to the craft (I don't know why I got that idea, forgive me if I'm falsely assuming) you may be better off paying attention to your hives as they are, without trying to push them. Some beekeepers in the north use established hives as stands for the summer splits they are trying to get through the winter. You wrote you have two hives. Splitting them will not leave you the option of wintering the splits atop established hives. Thanks for the question, it's a good one. I'm sure others will have lots to offer! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 09:04:42 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Blane White Subject: Re: drone trapping Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Everyone. The bottom line of this issue to me is quite simple. Research in Europe has shown that the varroa mite population of a colony in the late summer and fall is reduced by about a half by removal of 1 to 3 combs of drone brood in spring and early summer. This significant reduction in varroa population is obtained in a fairly short time and still allows the colony to raise as many drones as it "wants" after the mite trapping period. Most colonies also raise drones in other areas besides the trapping combs so they always have drones. The reduction in varroa mite population due to drone brood removal also allows the colony to raise a greater proportion of healthy drones that have not been damaged by varroa mites during the capped brood stage. My observations during drone brood removal for varroa management did not indicate a large negative impact on the colonies. But the varroa population is considerably reduced. FWIW blane ****************************************** Blane White MN Dept of Agriculture blane.white@state.mn.us ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 01:03:53 +0100 Reply-To: pdillon@club-internet.fr Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: PETER DILLON Organization: LA MARNE Subject: Pollination - comments on moving hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to all who responded to the question relating to pollination and fees when hives are moved after a request from a grower. Maybe a few comments are justified - In the original mail I left comments a little ambiguous so not to limit or pre-empt any thoughts that arose. The originally described situation arose as the grower wanted the hives to be moved and has asked the beekeeper to do it .Then asked what was due as payment - the grower explaining that he didn't consider it a new pollination. The beekeeper not wanting to upset the grower with whom he has excellent terms was left in a cleft stick situation. I am wondering if this practice once accepted by a few beekeepers would be the norm. The hives are not under normal circumstances moved by the growers - it is the grower that is asking the beekeepers to move their hives again to another site. The growers are apparently thinking that the same hives are under the same contract and therefore think that the original pollination fee covers - and any extra effort and cost to the beekeeper such as time and travel costs are due but nothing for the detrimental effects on the colony from the second move I realise that a tight contract is advisable - but if such activities are expected by growers; any attempt to limit movement of hives will be eventually considered as abnormal - and beekeepers who resist will find that they are without contracts or are called upon in situation of last resort! >From the beekeepers point of view (and mine) the pollination of a crop is one that is restricted to an area within the natural range for the bees and the length of time it takes to get that area pollinated. Any movement of the hives to another area should be considered as another contact period. Agreed that due to the grower previously having paid a fee for the first period, the second may be reduced in some way. What I wish to have clarify is the following: What is common practice when reduced fees are agreed! -When increasingly some growers view point appears to be that a pollination activity by a colony is for the length of time over which the crop is in flower and the hives may be moved (in some cases a great distance) to any area that is under his (her) control when it is in flower. One position is to the advantage of the grower and the other is to the advantage of the beekeeper. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 20:12:53 -0400 Reply-To: "jfischer@supercollider.com" Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Fischer Subject: Re: Glycogen & Flight Times Bob & Liz said: > I can go on and on quoting about glycogen. Mr. Winston is simply incorrect.... > ...Maybe the original quote by Mark Winston is incorrect or taken out > of context. Well, the quote was not taken out of context, at least. It can be found on page 101 of the paperback edition, fifth printing (1995). Shucks, for once I actually remember reading something, and find the correct book in the whirling maelstrom that is my "library", only to have it turn out to be bogus information. C'est la vie... jim farmageddon ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:53:07 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "BOGANSKY,RONALD J." Subject: Essay MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello All, I just followed Judy's link and read Patricia's essay. I was very moved by the insight of this young author. The essay should be required reading in schools, especially where children still think food comes from the grocery store. If you have not read it, I strongly suggest you take the time to do so. Here is the link again in case you need it. http://home.fuse.net/backyardbees/ I think this essay deserves publication, with Patricia's permission of course. A number of the members of BeeL are associated with or contribute to a number of publications that range from newsletters to magazines. I would like to challenge you to get this essay printed. Judy, if you aren't already, you will probably get a barrage of emails, or at least I hope you do, requesting more information. Two years ago I was "interviewed" by three home-schooled children that were doing a report on honeybees. Their ages were between 9 and 11. It was fun answering the questions that they had prepared. They also entered an essay, based on their project, with 4H. They placed 2nd and Honorable Mention in the state contest. Our association honored them at our annual banquet and they honored us by presenting their reports at our winter meeting. I don't know if these children will ever become beekeepers, but they do know the importance bees play in our lives. We do have a chance to influence the future and the tool is education. Ron Bogansky Kutztown, (eastern) PA, USA + ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 10:03:19 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim McGarry Subject: Re: Summer Splits I have to agree with Aaron. Summer splits or makeing nucs to overwinter cannot be fully assesed until seeing the results in the spring. I'm alos in "upstate NY" the Adirondacks actually. As to what type of queen to use, The NWC are at the top of my list as well. I will mention however that this year I am grafting queens from inseminatd Minnesota Hygenic queens and SMRd inseminated queens and creating nucs with the offspring mated with the "local" drones of my own stock and maybe a few surving swarms from last year. As always, the learning curve in beekeeping is broad and the best way to learn is through first hand experience. Consider also the possibility that if your current colonies are well cared for and come through the winter in good shape, you can make splits with them next year, double your numbers and maybe avoid a swarm or two. Tim ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 12:10:11 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Frank I. Reiter" Subject: Loafing bees In-Reply-To: <200107031415.f63EFM815403@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Recently in another forum someone wrote asking about loafing bees. I don't recall seeing an explanation of this behaviour, but I am seeing plenty of the same on my strongest hive. At times there are a thousand (few thousand? I'm estimating, perhaps poorly) bees just sitting on the front and sometimes sides of the hive. I've seen this in the morning and early and lat evening, but not so far in mid day. There is a picture at this link: http://www.frank.net/pets/bees/BeesOnHive2001-0625a.jpg What causes the bees to do this? Does this behaviour tell me anything in particular about this hive? Frank. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 12:45:52 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Amanda Mongeon Subject: Observation Hive Maintenance I manage an observation hive that is kept indoors. Every year so far we have had to replace our bees (first because they swarmed and recently because they got sick (dysentery) and the population dropped). This is contrary to the "living, working hive" that we are trying to present. What can I do for the bees to make them happier/keep them from getting sick? Would less sunlight help? Is it the warm temperature they don't like? Any advise would be most appreciated. Thanks. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 14:06:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Kim Flottum, Editor Bee Culture" Subject: ABF, not NHB Essay In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If I'm not mistaken, the American Beekeeping Federation is in charge of the 4H Essay Contest, not the National Honey Board. Just to keep proper credit where credit is due, or not. Kim Flottum Editor, Bee Culture Magazine 1-800-289-7668 x3214 623 W. Liberty St. Medina OH 44256 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 14:06:51 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob & Liz Subject: Re: Observation Hive Maintenance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, > I manage an observation hive that is kept indoors. You have to indeed manage a observation hive. Many times before the end of our state fair ( eleven days) we have to remove and rebuild one or both of the OH. They are quite a commitment. > Every year so far we have had to replace our bees (first because they > swarmed and recently because they got sick (dysentery) and the population > dropped). There is a new book out on observation hives available from Mid-Con Agrimarketing (1-800-547-1392). I haven't yet read the book but looks interesting. In the mid 90's Bee Culture ran a year long set of articles on setting up and maintaining a OH.. > This is contrary to the "living, working hive" that we are trying to > present. Keeping a year round OH can be compared keeping a fih tank. Quite a bit to the project other than setting up and watching only. If not there is always a market for used OH. > Would less sunlight help? Is it the warm temperature they don't like? NEVER let direct sunlight hit the observation hive glass The insides of hives are normally dark plus observation hives have trouble exhausting heat. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri Ps. I assume you have got a couple of other hives you can pull brood, etc. from if needed. If not I would start a hive or two to help maintain the OH. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:13:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Combining two hives? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Better that you combine the two, and FEED 1:1 sugar syrup during July and August to HELP THEM grow in population, draw comb for winter storage space, and be ready to gather some fall goldenrod or aster for winter stores. ONE STRONG hive is far better than 2-3 weak hives that probably won't make it through the winter. Hope I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:25:48 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Loafing bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/3/01 1:37:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Frank@DWYERHILL.COM writes: > http://www.frank.net/pets/bees/BeesOnHive2001-0625a.jpg > It looks like you need more ventillation to me or more supers of comb. Foragers are not gonna hang out inside in the way if they can avoid it, it's hot and crowded in there. Most likely you are seeing this when some nectar source shuts down for the day, some only provide a few hours a day. Do the swarm cell check and make sure you have brood and see what you can do to increase ventillation or room. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:34:30 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Observation Hive Maintenance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It would take a beekeeper with skills far beyond mine to manage an observation hive without a full blown double deep hive to swap frames in and out of . One problem is an observation hive never really has enough bees to thermoregulate properly. The other problem is when it gets overcrowded and swarms. I think trying to manage a few frame observation hive year round without a regular size hive to keep things going is a losing proposition. I can't do it to the bees anymore myself I have tried. Some kind of drapery to keep the sun off them will help tremendously perhaps along the order of a voting booth. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 18:30:02 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Housel Subject: Re: Observation Hive Maintenance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best results for an observation hive is a four vertical frame hive. Entrance at the bottom with tube to outside and the other side across from entrance have a place when you can open to vacuum the bottom inside clean. (the little worms are wax worms and can be used in the demonstration). I also have slits in the sides that can be opened to put in strips for mites. Feeding jar at entrance tube is used inplace of a nuc super on the top. Queen replacement is 6 months to a year depending on the bee population. A nuc on a post outside the building away from the public has a lure to get the swarm (30% luck in getting the swarm so far). This also gives me the equipment ready for the swarm. Also feeding can relieve the kill if it is poison plant honey(conferate jasmine), mark the calendar a month before the loss to feed hive. Michael Housel Orlando, Florida ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 19:52:20 -0600 Reply-To: Dennis Murrell Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dennis Murrell Subject: Varroa blaster MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, I thought I would share my experience with a "varroa blaster". Inspired by a post from another Bee-l member, I constructed a varroa blaster using a stout plastic bottle(an old Salsa bottle). Small diameter holes were drilled in the cap. The bottle was filled about half full with powdered sugar and a piece of nylon stocking was stretched across the mouth of the bottle. The cap was screwed on the bottle over the nylon. Several frames were removed from each super and the remaining frames were seperated giving each frame face two strong blasts of powdered sugar by squeezing the bottle. A tray was placed below the supers being treated to observe mite fall. The vast majority of mites would fall off the bees within the first minute of treatment. Approximately 80% of the mites on the bees were dislodged during the first treatment. Another treatment 24 hours later dislodged almost all the remaining mites. Mites on the tray which caught a light dusting of powdered sugar from the treatment were all dead 24 hours later. Previous tests indicated mites could live about 5 days on the trays with hive debris. The tracks they left in the powdered sugar dust were interesting. Some traveled a great distance in a small area usually less than an inch in diameter before perishing. Most perished without traveling at all. No noticable damage occurred to either the larva or the bees although some newly hatched bees dislodged from the frames during the treatment had trouble locating the hive entrance. Older bees would fly back to the hive. Fallen mites on the mite tray were unable to attach or not attracted to bees walking across the mite tray. Best Wishes Dennis Murrell ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 23:11:52 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave and Judy Subject: Re: ABF, not NHB Essay MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You are not mistaken. I was. We are fixing the reference on the website. Thanks for catching this. Personally, I think the essay contest is a great idea. The national winner of the contest this year hails from Kentucky. As a matter of fact, from our own county! However, the winner is not a beekeeper and I have only met her at a 4h talkmeet in which I was a judge and she was a speaker. The only concern I have is getting the kids to write. In our state we are lucky to get 4 or 5 entries. I wonder if all states are similar. We need to do more to get the kids to write. I offer our kids the use of our personal beekeeping library and our computer if they don't have access to one. Publication wise, I asked for and received both Patricia's and her mother's permission to post her essay. They also gave me permission to submit the essay to our local newspaper. I have left a message requesting further permission, however, Patricia is a savvy 'net' user and I would guess that she understands that once it is posted to a website it is generally available for use with proper acknowledgment. But I will ask to make sure and post her response. I would like any who use the essay to forward a copy to me so I can pass it on to Patricia. What a great section in her graduation package (I can't recall the name of that thing - each student must compile a folder with various works they have done during high school to earn their diploma, and to earn their student standing in their class). We have a P.O. Box that will help for delivery. Judging wise, I may not have been clear in my preface. Patricia's essay did not advance beyond the county level because the STATE judges deemed it 'not on topic'. My reward for arguing the point with the judges is that I was appointed to be a judge next year. ;o} Unfortunately our local club is penny poor. We only charge $1.00 as annual dues. Some members donate a bit. Our treasury is around $300.00, and that's taken us 5 years to collect. So any hope for an education fund is many, many years down the road. But I really appreciate the thought. I think it will be a topic for discussion at our meeting this coming Monday. (By the way, Dave, I thought you may have a comment about the "rabble-rousers" with the end note identifying your website!) Bee Culture wise, last February one of our members commented at our monthly meeting that the Bee Culture he had received that day was worth the cost of his annual subscription. The next 11 months would be free. I will be seeing Patricia this week as we are helping her to build a bee vacuum and frame display case to enter in the state fair. I will be sure to pass on your well deserved compliments. I am so pleased with all of your reviews of Patricia's essay. I knew you would like it. Judy in Kentucky, USA P.S. Off topic: My mind is under siege. ABF, NHB... They changed our area code 6 months ago and now they are changing our address because we might be getting 911 within a year or so. Not only will I be lost, I can't even call home for help! "Kim Flottum, Editor Bee Culture" wrote: > If I'm not mistaken, the American Beekeeping Federation is in charge of the > 4H Essay Contest, not the National Honey Board. Just to keep proper credit > where credit is due, or not. > > Kim Flottum > Editor, Bee Culture Magazine > 1-800-289-7668 x3214 > 623 W. Liberty St. Medina OH 44256 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:20:26 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Les Roberts Subject: extruding wax into "spaghetti" In-Reply-To: <200107040400.f6440R808230@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I have a requirement to form beeswax into strings or narrow tube shapes, perhaps 1/4 or less in diameter, and perhaps 6" long. This is for use in crafts. My first thought was a pasta maker but beewax is very very hard when solid, and ... well... I was going to say "very liquid when melted"... duh. Anybody have an idea on making wax spaghetti? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 15:51:44 -0500 Reply-To: john@outdoorplace.org Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Caldeira Subject: Top 10 Things to Know About Honey Extracting MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Having just extracted honey this week, I am reminded of the perils that exist. Since it is extracting season for many beekeepers in the northern hemisphere, for the benefit of beginners and the amusement of others, I offer 10 things a hobby beekeeper should know about extracting honey. Some of these tips I learned from others, and others were learned the hard way. TOP 10 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT HONEY EXTRACTING 1. Honey is sticky. It will drip. Every doorknob, shoelace and radio button that is touched while uncapping or handling wet frames will become sticky. A bucket of water to rinse hands and a dish rag are essential extracting equipment, especially if you are married and want to stay that way. 2. Bees in the extracting room are attracted to light. Straggler bees in the supers will tend to fly towards a window or light bulb. A small exit near the top of a window will allow them to leave. Don't extract directly under the only light bulb in the room. A vacuum cleaner hose is an alternative. 3. Bees away from their colony are not inclined to sting - except when they are crushed. Bees in supers are normally extremely gentle, with no brood or queen present. However, they do tend to sting the finger that crushes them while picking up a frame or super. Beware. 4. A serrated bread knife makes a good uncapping knife. Use a sawing motion. No need to heat it. Change directions if it catches the wood. 5. A woman's nylon stocking makes a good honey filter. A clean one, of course. 6. Honey that has settled for a few days after extracting will not leave tiny bubbles around the rim of a jar. Be patient. Any debris left in the honey after filtering will either float or sink within a few days, so bottle from a spigot near the bottom of a container when possible. 7. If there is no nectar flow and bees are inclined to rob honey, extracting is best performed in a closed room or outside after dark. I heard a story about a guy that brought some supers into his basement to be extracted the next day, but he left a window open. The next day he found that his bees had brought half the honey back to their hives. 8. Uncapping is so much easier with only 8 or 9 frames spaced evenly in a 10 frame super. The thicker comb means almost no scraping with the fork. Uncap all the way down to the wood on the top and bottom jar, regardless of how far the comb in drawn out, so the comb will be nice and even next year. 9. Butyric acid (Bee Go) really stinks. It works great, and is the best way for most hobby beekeepers to clear bees from the supers because the bees don't get as angry as brushing or blowing them, but that smelly fume board belongs behind the garage or someplace near the fence when you're done. The almond-smelling Benzaldehyde smells better and works okay in nice weather, but it still belongs outside. 10. Turn on the fan and radio before you get all sticky. I am sure that I have omitted some really important stuff, so I hope others will expand on this subject. John Caldeira Dallas, Texas, USA http://www.outdoorplace.org/beekeeping ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 22:18:04 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: dr pedro p rodriguez Subject: wax moth trap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello every one. Some years back I seem to remember having read "a thread" here about a home made trap for bee yard wax moths. I would appreciate very much if the author/s of that remedy is still on the list, or if anyone else remembers, would care to send me information on how it is made. For further information, I seem to remember that it consisted of a bottle fitted with ???? was hung in the yard and that the moths would fall in it? Something like that. Best regards to all. Dr. Rodriguez ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 07:00:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" ... hard when solid, and ... "very liquid when melted". At the proper temperature, beeswax is very maleable. I can't name that temperature, but I'm sure you can find it in a book on beeswax (I recommend Bob Berthold's book, but I don't recall the title). Anyway, floating a hunk of beeswax in a water bath at the proper temperature for a time sufficient to bring the entire hunk up to temperature should make the wax suitable for a pasta maker. I'm not sure how good it'll be for the pasta maker though. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 07:45:13 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rick and Kathy Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Les Roberts wrote: > I have a requirement to form beeswax into strings or narrow tube shapes, > perhaps 1/4 or less in diameter, and perhaps 6" long. This is for use in > crafts. > > Anybody have an idea on making wax spaghetti? Have you tried pouring beeswax into a 1/4" sheet, cutting that sheet into 1/4" strips, then using very clean hands on a very clean glass surface rolling the strips to round? (Remember clay and playdoh snakes?) Or were you hoping for something less labor intensive? Kathy ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 08:20:24 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Potters use a small extruder about a little bigger than a 50cc syringe to make little bits of clay trim. The last one I saw looked like a miniature version of the old mirro cookie gun your mom used to make christmas cookies and looked like aluminum or one of those die cast alloys. You might even be able to borrow one in trade for some wax as potters use wax as a resist for glaze like on the bottom ring of a coffee cup. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 16:57:21 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Smith Subject: Re. Odd behavior MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Has anyone ever used the screened bottom board for ventilation and also = mite control. I'm experimenting with them now and find that the bees do not = seem to gather outside the front of the hive during extremely hot weather. I = live in the central GA area. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 08:30:31 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: ABF, not NHB Essay MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This message was originally submitted by glenn.west@EDS.COM to the BEE-L list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove excessive quotes of previously posted material. ----------------- Original message (ID=51547E94) (32 lines) ------------------- Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 16:24:46 -0400 From: Glenn West Subject: Re: ABF, not NHB Essay To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu You're absolutely right, Kim. ABF is the sponsor. And it would have been nice to know what the topic was supposed to be. From http://www.abfnet.org/essay/rules.html : For the 2001 essay contest, the essay topic is "Ecouraging (sic) Youth to Become Beekeepers." (if not better spellers)... Having read the imaginative essay in question, I must admit to being surprised that the essay wasn't considered by some as "on topic". ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 14:09:48 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bumble Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" In-Reply-To: <200107051049.f65Ann804362@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Don't know if this will be of any help but here goes. In the UK food industry pressure extrusion has been explored to reform various foods. One of these that has been successfully marketed is cheese string. Basically the normal cheese is loaded into a sealed press and pressure applies until it becomes a "super cooled liquid" this is then released through a nozzle whereby it sets instantly, but retains many liquid qualities, it can be stretched folded snapped squeezed into shapes etc. Maybe beeswax would do the same?? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 14:08:42 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bumble Subject: Re: wax moth trap In-Reply-To: <200107051100.f65B0U804582@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit clipped this from a previous post. ----clip 1 cup vinegar 1 cup sugar 1 banana peal put in plastic 2 quart bottle and cut a 2" hole in the side .. fill rest with water Takes a week get fermenting ---end clip ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 08:58:05 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Beekeeperc@AOL.COM Subject: Re: wax moth trap (RECEIPT FOR TRAP) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Use any two liter plastic soda bottle: Cut a 1 1/4 inch hole near the top of the bottle. Add: 1 cup white vinegar 1 cup sugar 1 Banana peel Fill with 3/4 water and hang bottle near hive. Good Luck.......it works for me. Norm (Martha Stewart's beekeeper) beekeeperc@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 06:07:54 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ellen Anglin Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" Comments: cc: rgreen@INDY.RR.COM In-Reply-To: <200107051049.f65Anq804371@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I see a couple possibilities here... You can buy plain, unembossed sheets of beeswax for rolled candle making- the unembossed sheets make a much more solid candle when rolled. These could be cut into slices using a pasta machine- I mean the kind of pasta machine that is used to roll the dough into flat sheets and with different blades cuts the rolled sheets into slices- works like a hand cranked version of a paper shredder. You would end up with ribbons tho, not tubes. A pasta machine that mixes dough and extrudes pasta would probably be gummed up by beeswax- it would probably cool off before it could be extruded. Unless you can find a way to keep the mixing chamber etc. at the right temperature.... But the ones I have seen are plastic, and would probably be damaged by heat. Putting the wax through a cookie press might work, but you would have to have the temperature of the wax, the press, and everything else just right or it would go solid on you and make quite a mess- you'd have to dunk everything in hot water to free things up if they got stuck. The temperature would have to be pretty warm too. Keeping everything under a heat lamp, or working in a heated box might help. Sounds like sweaty work tho! Look into the equipment used by people working with Fimo and other plastic art mediums- they are always looking for good ways to make ribbons and rods of this clay-like medium. Maybe one of their tools will work for you. My local Butchers supply store has an all metal tool used for stuffing sausage meat into casings. It is designed to handle very thick substances (Ground meat.) it is all metal, so it could be kept warm with a heating tape or hot air. The tube it is designed to fill is larger than you mention (Breakfast links to Kielbasa, depending on the tube put on the end.) But you might be able to get or make an appropriate end for your use. This is a professional butchers too, and it is expensive, but if you have a large enough market for your wax straws, maybe it would be worthwhile. Do the tubes have to be pure beeswax? Can they have a string core? Could you dip strings in wax untill the desired thickness is reached- like starting a candle, or making very thin candles. What about dipping a wire or brazing rod in mold release compound, or spraying it with non-stick cooking spray, and then dipping it in the wax till you have the size you want. Zap a bit of electricity into it using wire embedding equipment, to warm the rod, and slip off the wax straw. How much of this do you have to make? Most of these are probably rather labor intensive. Good luck! Ellen in Michigan Les Roberts wrote: I have a requirement to form beeswax into strings or narrow tube shapes, perhaps 1/4 or less in diameter, and perhaps 6" long. This is for use in crafts. Anybody have an idea on making wax spaghetti? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 07:23:34 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Pollination problem? Comments: To: pdillon@club-internet.fr In-Reply-To: <200106291110.f5TBALP00324@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > The grower sees that the weather conditions have been good and considers > that the colony has done its work in the area in a shorter period of > time than usual. > Due to geographical and climatic conditions there is another area that > has a slightly later flowering period, maybe 50km. away - but of the > same crop. > Is it acceptable for the grower to expect that because the initial site > has been well pollinated that he (she) may then move that hive to the > new area - seeing as under normal conditions the hive would be at the > disposal of the grower for the first site and consider that it may do > the second site's pollination and here is the crux of the question! - > and claim that this may be done for the amount agreed for a pollination. A beekeeper can make any kind of deal he or she wishes and then should try to stick to it. However, when we are pollinating, we made sure that our contract specified that we are paid by the set. That is for each move. Our contract specified that there was to be only one except in the case of an emergency, and in such a case we would be well paid to move. We also specified the maximum time the bees could be required to stay on a site. Pollination is basically *piecework*. We are being paid to accomplish a specific job. Sometimes it takes longer, sometimes it takes less. There are some risks that the beekeeper takes, and there are some that are the responsibility of the grower. A second field elsewhere is an entirely new job. Moving is hard on bees. Sitting in crowded sites is hard on bees. Bees generally go downhill on pollination and need to be moved out to good sites ASAP. An extra set may mean your bees die in the coming winter or that clusters are small next spring. It is for you to decide what your bees can take without damage. Every move and every extra day on pollination costs you, both in terms of the stress on the bees and also on the opportunities missed elsewhere. Generally we commit to pollinate the crop at one site, and as soon as the bloom has diminished or the grower is happy with the set, the bees are free to go. We're always watching and sometimes nagging for the grower to release our bees at the earliest possible moment, so we can get them out of there. allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 11:01:27 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: not extruding wax into tubes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Another brainstorm, perhaps slow, but cheap. Dip a thermally conductive rod into molten beeswax allow the wax to solidify and then heat the rod and slide the tube off. Copper wire comes to mind, you might have to pull it through what jewellers call a draw plate to get it straight enough or put some serious pull on a length. To make rods you would fill a copper tube. Look into the mold release compounds the candle makers use. I saw all kinds of brass rod and tubes at a hobby supply for modelmakers. Brass has reasonable conductivity. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 10:09:06 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Yarnell Organization: Oregon VOS Subject: Re: Heads up on Lyme disease - ABC Nightline tonight In-Reply-To: <200107051228.f65CS0805673@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII ABC's Nightline will broadcast a feature on Lyme Disease. Given yesterday's note from the hospital, this many times delayed piece should be of interest to beekeepers working in ranges populated by deer. In most markets, Nightline airs after the late local news. --------------- Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific" Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine | fix we attempt, will save our planet Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban | until we reduce the population. Let's composter, Raw Honey | leave our kids a decent place to live. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 12:39:22 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Eugene Makovec Subject: Re: Pollination "set" In-Reply-To: <200107051455.f65Eti809319@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii --- Allen Dick wrote: > Generally we commit to pollinate the crop at one > site, and as soon as the bloom > has diminished or the grower is happy with the set, > the bees are free to go. If, by "happy with the set", you mean that the grower feels the crop is well pollinated, how can he tell? I thought the only indicator of adequate pollination was the quality of the developed fruit or vegetable. Eugene Makovec Kirkwood, MO __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 00:29:32 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Odd Behaviour Comments: cc: irishbeekeeping@listbot.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All Tim Smith wrote as follows: >Has anyone ever used the screened bottom board for ventilation and also = >mite >control. I'm experimenting with them now and find that the bees do not = >seem >to gather outside the front of the hive during extremely hot weather. I = >live >in the central GA area. > > That is exactly what the screened bottom board was designed to do. The screened bottom board (Open Mesh Floor - OMF) is in my opinion the only beekeeping device that has no disadvantages. The following are the advantages of an OMF. 1. Incredible ventilation. Dampness is what destroys colonies, not cold. OMFs have been used way up north in Canada with excellent results. 2. Destruction of varroa mites. Some observers claim that up to 15% of mites lose their hold on bees and fall to their deaths through the OMFs. If you had a solid floor these mites would easily re enter the hive. 3. It is a travelling screen in that you can move a hive equipped with an OMF without worrying about suffocating the bees. 4. By placing a board equipped with a sheet of paper under the OMF you can monitor mite fall if you wish to know it, perhaps you are using IPM (Integrated Pest Management) systems to counteract varroa. I shall be glad of feed back on this as always. Sincerely Tom Barrett Dublin Ireland ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 17:48:37 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Pollination "set" In-Reply-To: <200107051945.f65Jj4816736@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > If, by "happy with the set", you mean that the grower > feels the crop is well pollinated, how can he tell? I > thought the only indicator of adequate pollination was > the quality of the developed fruit or vegetable. The grower may not want too heavy a crop in orchards, so I understand they will pull out the bees early to spray and end the bloom. I don't know. I did canola, but in canola the job was over when either the male or female flowers were all finished or down to a few scattered blooms. allen http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ --- Applying computer technology is simply finding the right wrench to pound in the correct screw. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 22:28:05 +0100 Reply-To: pdillon@club-internet.fr Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peter Dillon Organization: La Marne Subject: Re: Pollination "set" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Eugene, A crop that has been pollinated is indicated in several manner. 1. The falling of the petals of the flower. (Canola) 2. A relative change in position the flower head before and after pollination. (Clover) 3.Change in tissue condition of reproductive parts of the flower - shriveling of stamens/ stigma. (Fruit) 4. Change due to "tripping of the flower. (Lucerne) A grower I presume like a beekeeper with his or her bees has "the eye" and experience, so after looking around leaves the field "happy with the set" or not depending what has been seen. Peter ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 21:59:57 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Harrison Subject: instrumental insemination Hello All, Can anyone tell me the approx time it takes to inseminate a queen from start to finnish. Fifteen minutes? 30 minutes? one hour? two hours? We know different inseminators work at different speeds. We are only looking for the average time with a skilled inseminator. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 06:41:45 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: michael palmer Subject: Re: Pollination "set" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I pollinated apples in the northeast. The orchardist wanted the bees in the orchard until the petals fell. He then sprayed a thinner, Sevin I think, to thin out the "set." Mike Allen Dick wrote: > The grower may not want too heavy a crop in orchards, so I understand they will > pull out the bees early to spray and end the bloom. I don't know. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 17:59:26 +1000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: T & M Weatherhead Subject: Nuisance bees in Sweeden MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable On the news reports here in Australia this morning there was a news item = about swarms of bees in Sweden being killed by snow making machines. = They belatedly included wasps in the story. Can any of our friends from = Sweden fill us in on the story. No doubt there is more to the story = than I have heard. It is good to get the correct story in case the media here in Australia = try to beat up the story. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA =20 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 19:25:26 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rodney Farrar Subject: Re: Combining two hives? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the information, being that I have never combined two hives can you give information on how to do it? The only thing I have ever heard of was placing newspaper (two layers) between the two and let the bees do all the work. Would I need to use some type of spacer for an entrance between the two? Rodney in VA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:52:36 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: dr pedro p rodriguez Subject: Re: Odd Behaviour MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello folks. An FGMO research update release is due soon. Utilization of OMF devices is described as one of its important features. The list will be informed upon publication. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:43:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Fischer Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Les Roberts wrote: > I have a requirement to form beeswax into strings or narrow > tube shapes, perhaps 1/4 or less in diameter, and perhaps > 6" long. If the tubes must be hollow, I think the task may be impossible, but if the tubes can be solid (like spaghetti), then you should try either a mold or an electric "hot wire". A 2-part mold could be formed from the 3M rubber mold compound directly, using some 1/4-inch dowel as the "model". Hot wax is certainly not hot enough to harm the mold. If you want to try a "hot wire", here's how I'd make one. Find a foundation wire embedder if you do not have one, and form a new tool using the same transformer. The tool should be a simple loop of wire shaped like the Greek letter omega on a stick. It would be important to insure that the gap between the "feet" of the omega do not touch, so you may want to thread the wires through a shirt button that would be glued to the end of the stick, and make some razor-blade cuts along the sides of the stick in which the wires can lay. Now that you have a small loop of hot wire, you can run it along the edge of a slab of wax (molded in a cookie sheet, perhaps) to create the 1/4-inch diameter "extruded shapes". The wax needs a (plywood?) spacer to sit upon so the edge to be "cut" will hang in mid-air, and I'm sure that the results will be better if you keep the "hot wire" gizmo still in some sort of jig, and slide the wax from side to side along some sort of straight edge. A table saw might be a good "base" for the whole set-up. Just crank the vernier knob a bit after each "cut". jim ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:10:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Fischer Subject: Re: Varroa blaster MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis Murrell said: > ...Approximately 80% of the mites on the bees were dislodged during > the first treatment. Another treatment 24 hours later dislodged almost all > the remaining mites. This is my second summer using powdered sugar dusting for mite control while supers are on, so I'm interest in how you counted the mites remaining on bees after a "treatment". How did you count the mites left on the bees after the dusting? a) With a sugar roll? b) With an ether roll? c) With a stack of tiny little survey forms left on the landing board? :) d) Or was this a conclusion from seeing a zero mite drop after changing your paper/sicky board and waiting some period? jim ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:12:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: extruding wax into "spaghetti" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Aaron Morris wrote: > At the proper temperature, beeswax is very maleable. > I can't name that temperature, but I'm sure you can find > it in a book on beeswax (I recommend Bob Berthold's > book, but I don't recall the title). >From _Beeswax_Crafting_ by Robert Berthold Jr. on page 22, "Above 90dF (32dC), beeswax is very malleable and is ideal for carving and hand forming." Aaron Morris - thinking buy the book! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 12:09:31 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Sharon Labchuk Subject: clipped queen and swarming Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I clipped and marked my queens this year for the first time and did what I could to reduce the swarming urge. Nevertheless, one colony swarmed today - with the swarm returning to the hive. After scanning the internet for some solution to this dilema, I'm now entirely unsure of what to do. I don't want any more colonies, and besides I have no extra equipment. Assuming the old queen is lost on the ground, some sources say to kill all queen cells but one and problem solved. Others say the colony will swarm with the first emerging queen - in which case it seems the colony would be left queenless if all queen cells are killed but one. Suggestions? Sharon Prince Edward Island ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:18:58 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: Calendar item: media MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here is an item for your calendar: "Charles Andros, former NH/VT Apiary Inspector, will hold a beekeeping = workshop from 1-3 PM, Saturday, July 21, at the Paul Harlow Farm on = Route 5 in North Westminster, VT, 1/2 mile north of the I-91 Exit 5 = ramp. Look for the "BEE" sign. The topics of discussion will be taking = off and processing honey and wax, treatment of mites and foulbrood, = making nuclei for wintering, queen evaluation, and making propolis = tincture. Bring a veil, if you have one, as we shall be opening some = colonies. Rain date: July 22. Registration required: lindena@sover.net = or call 603-756-9056" Thank you, Charles F. Andros Linden Apiaries since 1973 Former NH/VT Apiary Inspector '78-'89 18 McLean Road POB 165 Walpole, NH 03608-0165 603-756-9056 lindena@sover.net Residence: Latitude: 43=B0 05' North, Longitude: 72=B0 21' 15" West, = Elevation 1200' Keeper of 43 two-queen colonies for honey, pollen, propolis, beauty products, pollination, nuclei, beeswax, candles, apitherapy, and = education "Learn, experiment, innovate, educate!" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:49:54 -0400 Reply-To: Alan.Fiala@aya.yale.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: ADFiala Subject: Bee-Go not working MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Caldeira wrote: >>9. Butyric acid (Bee Go) really stinks. It works great, and is the best way for most hobby beekeepers to clear bees from the supers because the bees don't get as angry as brushing or blowing them, but that smelly fume board belongs behind the garage or someplace near the fence when you're done.<< -------------------------------------------------------------- I am in my fourth season of having bees. In past years, Bee-Go has worked. This year, however, it didn't. A couple of weeks ago, in removing honey supers, I had a lot of open burr comb, and the bees refused to leave it, even in the presence of Bee-Go. I finally had to remove each frame and brush the bees off, an exhausting process. A few days ago, I removed my one super of Ross Rounds. There was no open honey this time. With the rounds on top of the hive, I put the fume board on for 10-15 minutes, and didn't noticeably move any bees. I put that super off onto an empty super on the ground and applied the fume board again after smoking the bees off the top. 15 minutes later, the space under the fume board was full of bees. I resorted to using a blower. Has anyone else had this experience with Bee-Go? Or are my bees peculiarly resistant or addicted to it? Alan Fiala ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 19:06:36 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: michael palmer Subject: Re: clipped queen and swarming MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kill the old queen, and let them raise a queen from the cells they have. Sharon Labchuk wrote: > I clipped and marked my queens this year for the first time and did what I > could to reduce the swarming urge. Nevertheless, one colony swarmed today > - with the swarm returning to the hive. After scanning the internet for > some solution to this dilema, I'm now entirely unsure of what to do. > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 18:25:55 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Combining two hives? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rodney, You will NOT need any spacer between the two hive bodies. Do NOT use 2 sheets of newspaper, one is plenty, and two sheets just makes too much "garbage" for the bees to remove from the hive. You are correct when you say "most people just let the queens fight", and hope the youngest one wins. That is OK, if the queens are of equal quality. However, if one queen is definitely superior to the other, it behooves you to kill the lousy queen before you try and combine the two colonies; and his almost guarantees you the better queen will become queen of both colonies. While not extremely important, it is thought best to put the hive containing the good queen on TOP of the hive containing the bad queen. Hoping I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 20:52:24 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Martin Subject: Re: Re. Odd behavior MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tim, I live in central Florida about (15) miles north of Orlando. I have installed wire mesh bottoms all of my hives. I have installed them on top of the bottom board. I have not noticed a reduction in bees staying outside during the hot weather. I find the major advantage of the mesh screen bottoms to be IPM. SHB, larva (wax and shb) will fall through the screen onto the plastic coated cardboard that I slide in from the back. Periodically, I add a sticky board to monitor for mites, shb, wax moth and other pests. Richard ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 21:20:55 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dennis Murrell Subject: varroa blaster MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable James Fisher asked: > How did you count the mites left on the bees after the dusting? Hi James and Everyone, Thanks James for the idea of the varroa blaster. I used 7 double story = hives and two five frame nucs to test the sugar dusting. The double story = hives were on screened bottom boards. The nucs were not. Trays were placed = under the hives with screened bottoms. Frames from the nucs were removed and = dusted in a super over a tray. After the initial treatment hundreds of mites per hive were counted on = the trays. The second treatment resulted in tens of mites per hive. Subsequent = treatments resulted in ten to less than ten mites per treatment. It was interesting to note that the nucs had the same mite drop after = the two treatments as did the much larger colonies. These numbers were consistent with the research conducted on the effects = of screened bottom boards published in the American Bee Journal. It = indicated an influx of 10 to 14 mites per day in apistan treated control colonies. Two weeks after the last treatment when most of the brood sealed before = the first treatment had hatched, I treated the hives again. The hives that = had the highest initial mite drops in the hundreds, again had mite drops approaching 100. Bees of open mated SMR stock had a mite drop = approaching 30 and the Russians were dropping less than 10 mites per hive. At low mite infestation rates I have not had good results with either = the ether roll or the sugar roll tests. This probably has more to do with = the sampling techniques and the resuling extrapolation rather than the = actual effects of the sugar or the ether on the sample. I helped my wife = through a statistics course several years back which almost resulted in a divorce = so now I am always open to statistical rebuttal :>) On another note, a quart Gatoraid bottle with a double layer of nylon between the cap and the bottle makes the best blaster yet. It is stiff enough to rebound easily when squeezed. With your experience in dusting can the mites dislodged with the = powdered sugar reattach themselfs to the bees before dying? My observations on = the trays after dusting the hives indicates that all the mites were dead a = day later after dusting. Numerious dead mites were observed on the solid = bottom boards of nucs dusted while even the powdered sugar had been cleaned up. = I guess I will have to put some mites dropped the next time I dust in a = jar with some bees and see what happens. Best Wishes Dennis Murrell ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 04:11:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Brenchley Subject: Re: combining bees I had a situation the other week where I wasn't sure whether a hive was queenless or not (it was), but it definitely needed combining as there was no brood. In a situation like this, is it better to keep looking till you're sure, or combine as I did with a super and a couple of excluders between the two broodboxes? Once the bees had mostly gone downstairs, it was immediately obvious that there was no queen. Regards, Robert Brenchley RSBrenchley@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 23:06:28 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: dan hendricks Subject: Re: Combining two hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Rodney, if you want to have a two queen hive, put a queen excluder over the bottom hive and then a sheet of newspaper. Both sets of workers will use the bottom entrance just fine. If you want you can remove one queen after they get adjusted and then remove the queen excluder. Dan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 08:29:44 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Williamson Subject: Re: Bee-Go not working Comments: To: "A. D. Fiala" By your description it sounds as though you are "stupifying" the bees with too much bee-go. When too much bee-go is applied the bees become somewhat drugged and do not know which way to go. Bee-go applied under a sunny day may vaporize too fast and do the same thing. When we rob our hives.. first smoke the bees down good, then apply fume board caddy cornered leaving small air vents,we squirt beego in a three circles spiraling toward the center. That is usually enough to do the trick on sunny days. Leave open for five minutes or so then close all the way. you can also apply a little extra smoke while caddy cornered to help them down. We rob 3500 hives this way and don't have any problems most of the time (as long as the fume boards don't become saturated. Once a week we try to air them out. Robert Williamson texasdrone.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 08:29:00 -0400 Reply-To: beeman@kingston.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: kent stienburg Subject: poor honey flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All, I'm having a poor season so far. They are mostly putting the honey in and around the nest, not up in the suppers. I'm afraid they will bound up the nest. I haven't ever had this problem before. Usually I have 2-3 supers on by now and looking to add. I have 1-2 on right now and I'm not going to add any soon. Clover has been out for 2 weeks here. No sign of swarming. Yet. There is good traffic in and out of the hives. It would lead me to believe there is a good flow on but there isn't anything much to show for it. How is the rest of the list doing? Kent Stienburg Eastern Ontario Canada ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 07:50:35 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob & Liz Subject: poor honey flow Comments: To: beeman@kingston.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, I can give only a general report from Missouri as we have only pulled comb honey supers so far. I plan to start with extracted honey supers in a week if *heat wave* ends. We have got heat indecies of 115 F. the next few days. I have checked all yards in last few days and honey crop looks above average but hard to tell how much is unrippened nectar. I want to be a optimist but *Old Farmers Almanac* predicts the hotist summer in years for our area. Right now the sweet clover is still in bloom from all the subsoil moisture. Seven to ten days of 100 F. temperature will burn the sweet clover up and the bees will be short on plants to work until the fall flowers start. Let's hope the temperature will relax and we will get a decent rain next week to prolong the flow. For whatever reason many midwestern beekeepers saw high overwinter losses. Many did not put all the deadouts back into production. Others split thin to make up losses. Those which split thin were helped by our main flow starting later than normal. Each year is different in Missouri. Many beekeepers *TRY* to predict when the main flow will start but at best the prediction is simply a guess. My best guess was off by a week this year. Best of luck with your honey crops! Although most of us don't keep bees only for the honey crop the honey crop helps with the bottom line. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 13:14:26 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: poor honey flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in southeast CT I am experiencing a catch up year. The reports in Bee Culture say the region lost about half of it's hives over winter. Production is off and I am requeening about half of my stock. The flow is a bit off, spring was late we had early heat waves then no rain for a month and then 6 inches of rain in an evening. I did manage to pull a few hundred pounds allready and one yard had some very dark nicely flavored honey but I couldn't begin to guess it's origin. Sure doesn't feel as good to just be average ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 10:04:44 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob & Liz Subject: Re: Bee-Go not working MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Robert & All, I agree with Robert's suggestions but in my opinion old Bee-go could be the problem. You said you had been keeping bees four years. Is your Bee-Go four years old. I try to run out of Bee-go by the end of the season. I bought a large bottle of Bee go at a auction a few years back which was several years old and had similar problems as talked about. I mixed with fresh Bee-go and used the bottle up. Only a suggestion. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 11:47:15 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: MatHig@AOL.COM Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 5 Jul 2001 to 6 Jul 2001 (#2001-183) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/6/2001 11:17:55 PM Central Daylight Time, LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU writes: > While not extremely important, it is thought best to put the hive containing > the > good queen on TOP of the hive containing the bad queen. Hi George, I'm not doubting you, but what is the rationale behind putting the better hive on top? I generally just put the lightweight hive on top (easier on me physically), then let the queens fight it out, assuming the better lady will win. Your thoughts please. Matt Higdon mid MO, mid USA sweet clover almost done - soybeans start soon ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 17:58:46 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 5 Jul 2001 to 6 Jul 2001 (#2001-183) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Matt, When you combine two hives and the desirable queen is in the upper hive, all of the bees (both the foragers in the lower hive as well as the upper hive) GO THROUGH the bottom to get to the entrance and these "strange" new bees cause a disturbance within the bottom hive, causing the bees in the bottom hive to "put the blame" on their queen. Meanwhile all is quiet and serene up in the top box and the queen there is well protected by the gathering of her nurse bees around her hive. It boils down to a difference in bee moral between the two hives. The bottom hive is upset by the infusion of top hive bees passing through to get to the bottom entrance; but meanwhile, nothing is disturbing the moral in the upper hive. I hope I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 17:39:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Coleene E. Davidson" Subject: Re: poor honey flow Comments: To: beeman@KINGSTON.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, Here in central lower Michigan Sweet Clover just started blossoming this week and I will be pulling supers from 3 hives so I can extract and get them back on to be cleaned up and in one case to, hopefully take advantage of the 3 acres of Buckwheat I planted. Our weather has been strange as well. Lots of rain for a while, now it is so dry that everyone is watering their garden daily. I had had to deal with some swarming hives this year. On Tuesday I recovered 2 swarms, both of which have settled into their new hives with no trouble. I found a 3rd small swarm had taken up residence in some equipment in my barn. I gave them a bottom board an inner and outer cover and left them where they were. I found the queen. She is small, but since the swarm was so small, it was probably an after swarm with a virgin queen. She is laying-I found eggs and brood. My question, what is the timeframe from swarm with a virgin queen to eggs/brood. Our weather has been good for mating flights-sunny and no rain and not too windy. Both swarms are pulling syrup at about 2-3 quarts a day. I am feeding 1:1-should this be heavier for drawing comb? This is my first experience with swarms. Also, the hives the swarms came from-how long before I should expect to see eggs/brood? Everyone's help is greatly appreciated. Coleene ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 19:25:01 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: poor honey flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Coleene, Regarding the time frame for the egg appearance time from a virgin queen which traveled with a swarm. Quick, about 4-5 days. The bees are VERY anxious for her to lay tons of eggs, so they "push her out" on her mating flight just a day or two after selection of a new homesite, and she will lay the first few eggs about 48 hours after mating. Regarding how long before the new virgin queen in parent hive will start laying. Starting from the date of the swarm, the first sign of eggs might be as long as 14 days, but might be a few days less. Dependent on the age of the queen cell when the swarm departed (could be 1 day or 5 days to virgin emergence), then the virgin will rarely go out to mate until she is 6 days old from emergence, and she doesn't lay eggs for 2 days after being mated. 1:1 sugar syrup is the CORRECT dilution - do NOT make it heavier! Heavy syrup is strictly for winter storage; but thin syrup is artificial nectar which stimulates egg laying and comb building. FEED CONTINUOUSLY until September. Hope I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 17:29:41 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 5 Jul 2001 to 6 Jul 2001 (#2001-183) In-Reply-To: <200107072221.f67MLC822295@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > When you combine two hives and the desirable queen is in the upper hive, all > of the bees (both the foragers in the lower hive as well as the upper hive) > GO THROUGH the bottom to get to the entrance ... I presume this is unless you use an Imrie Shim? allen http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/