From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:27:02 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-90.3 required=2.4 tests=AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR, SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5BF8A4907A for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:52 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SEr0C1013917 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:52 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:50 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0612C" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 45606 Lines: 1094 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 09:20:12 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dave Cushman Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all > Jay Smith wrote: > > In using the grafting method the larvae are left in the worker cells for > two days where they are sparingly fed, for the bees are making workers of > them. If much younger larvae are used they will perish, for they cannot > stand such rough treatment. If you leave it two days, you will lose out on quality, but the statement about damaging young larvae is only true if you are 'ham fisted', OK not all of us have steady and delicate hands, but handling larvae on a grafting tool is not a particularly skilful job, I reckon a great deal of the problems that people perceive about grafting, is the ability to see the larvae distinctly, which is a factor mentioned by many. Human eyesight, properly corrected with spectacles if needed, is quite capable of seeing the larvae in enough sharp detail to do the job, so if you can't see eggs and larvae, you need to visit the optician or ensure that your optician is giving you 'full' correction. I also think that the headband magnifiers that some people use, make the problem worse by causing distortion of vision and exaggeration of movement. I agree with Peter that priming cells with royal jelly is not worth the effort, in fact, I reckon it could confuse the workers into feeding royal jelly of a formula that is inconsistent with the age of the larva. Regards & Best 73s, Dave Cushman, G8MZY http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman or http://www.dave-cushman.net Short FallBack M/c, Build 6.02/3.1 (stable) -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 20:47:12 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Bees Dying In-Reply-To: <456.b74769f.32b323a7@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Jerry, It is odd that this is happening in let's say late Oct, to most November, to even first part Dec, but mostly November. This is relative to going into winter, vs coming out of winter when normally things happen, which makes it seem relative back to Aug/Sep(first part of Oct) timing for broodnest turnover and whether or not it was successfully accomplished. With bad year for forage in many places, coupled with many treatments topping out, and say bees not propolizing good I would imagine in this instance for sterility, could a severe problem come about relating to turning the brood over for wintercarryover, leaving older sickened bees to succumb and no replacements as the brooding shut down? Just thinking about what you wrote and then thinking about year as it went down..... Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza,Arizona http://grous.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ ____________________________________________________________________________________ Have a burning question? Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 06:53:45 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Bees dying in Florida, Georgia In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20061214154817.04545498@pop.together.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Might check on Tracheal mites. This sounds very familiar. Massive kill-off followed by its disappearance for years so it is no longer a problem. It is the forgotten mite but has been making a silent resurgence here in Maine. And we get all those pollinators from Florida. Problem is, when you have a collapse, Varroa is always the culprit, while it may not be. Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 06:24:00 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: K&W Jarrett Subject: Re: Bees dying in Florida, Georgia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill wrote, > It is the forgotten mite but has been making a silent resurgence here in So true Bill, I think its a case of (out of sight out of mine) also nosema is one to that sneaks up on keepers. A little problem of each(both mites ,nosema ,pms) could severely damage hives. Keith -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 09:40:21 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Southern Adirondack Beekeepers Association Spring 2007 Seminar MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit March 24, 9 A.M. - 5 P.M. The Southern Adirondack Beekeepers Association's 2007 Spring Seminar Speakers : Tom Seeley, Keynote speaker Nick Calderone, Use of Fumigants Against Varroa Mites, and News of Africanized Honey Bees Maryann Frazier, Understanding Bee Biology - A Key to Successful Management, and Spring Hive Management; Ann Harman, Making Balms and Lotions, and Selling Value-Added Products - Labels and Legality. Location: LC One of The University at Albany, Albany NY (Same place as in '03-'06). Cost: $20 Further details: Anne Frey, 518-895-8744 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 16:04:02 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Bees dying in Florida, Georgia Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>A little problem of each(both mites ,nosema ,pms) could severely damage hives I thought tracheal mites and nosema could be problematic primarily in the north, not the south. Is there a history in the south? Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 11:21:16 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Keith Malone wrote: >I give complete credence to Jay, and think he is all right. Jay raised thousand of queens for many, many years. Sure, but there simply isn't One Right Way. Not in queen breeding, bee keeping, or anything. I own a lot of books on bees and one of my favorites has always been: "Contemporary Queen Rearing (1979) by Harry Laidlaw Jr., Dadant and Sons, Hamilton, Illinois." Unlike Dr. Morse's excellent book, which presents Roger's to raise queens -- Harry describes all the ways, so a person can work out a method that works and also fits in with their operation. A lot depends on conditions, too. If you are raising queens during swarming season, you are going to get better results because nectar and pollen are pouring in, and the bees have queen rearing on their mind. At other times of year you have to contend with feeding, robbing, bad mating conditions and so on. And it doesn't make much sense to raise queens at all if you don't have a good breeder queen. pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 10:06:06 -0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Keith Malone Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Dave, > I reckon a great deal of the problems that people perceive about = grafting, is the ability to see the larvae distinctly, which is a factor = mentioned by many. Human eyesight, properly corrected with spectacles if = needed, is quite capable of seeing the larvae in enough sharp detail to = do the job, so if you can't see eggs and larvae, you need to visit the = optician or ensure that your optician is giving you 'full' correction. > Actually even though I do where glasses, I can see much better than most = can with no glasses, and when I take my glasses off and place subjects = about five inches from my eye balls I can read and see things in great = detail being able to read fine print about 1/64th of an inch in size. I = am for all intensive purposes legally blind without my glasses, = extremely near sighted, but with super human near sightedness. c]:~)3 = Choosing to not use the grafting method of queen rearing because of poor = eye site is not why I make the personal choice to not use it. The reason = I make this choice is fundamental to bee biology not human biology or = invention. I can really care less what other beekeepers choose to use or = why. It is my personal choice and I am sure others will make their own = individual personal choices, which is the way it should be. I was merely = explaining in the other post that I think that non-grafting, = non-mechanical, and non-transferring of the larvae to me is best for me = and my purposes of producing queens from larvae and leaving the choices = of which age larvae to the bees who inherently know better than I what = they prefer to do on their own. Also I am not predetermining what size = queen cup they will use leaving it totally up to the bees to construct = the size queen cup of their choosing after they tear the worker cell = down to the larvae level at the bottom of the cell. They will tear the = cell walls almost completely down to the bottom of the cell and work out = a cup from there. This particular method is one that any beekeeper can = use without using much more than a sharp knife, a wire or needle, and a = way to attach the row of cells to a bar, everything else needed is basic = to rearing queens like cell builder colony and a cell finisher colony, = which in some cases are one in the same if a beekeeper chooses it to be. = I am developing methods of beekeeping for myself to use in Alaska that = anyone can use without to much equipment or investment using = conventional equipment or labor. I wish for any type beekeeper up here = to think they can do beekeeping even the neophyte. Really if I can do it = then in reality anyone should be able to. I use the KISS method of queen = rearing I presume and not the MITOM method. Really the technique is the = Alley way with Huber influence and Smith's mindful refinements. c]:~)3 By the way Dave when I was searching for a cell protector to use that = can be made of house hold material. I found it on your web site, I used = metal foil, it worked great. I have photos of how it worked out. Again = no need for a large investment and anyone can do it. Thanks for having = your information for all to utilize on your web site, you are a = blessing. > I agree with Peter that priming cells with royal jelly is not worth = the effort, > Peter thought the opposite, it was Jay that knows it is not worth the = effort from careful observations. . .. Keith Malone, Chugiak, Alaska USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 11:25:02 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: randy oliver Organization: Randy Oliver Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave Cushman wrote: > I agree with Peter that priming cells with royal jelly is not worth the > effort, I raise about 1000- 2000 queens a year; going on 25 years. I've tried dry grafting, double grafting, and priming. My best results are with priming with royal jelly taken from young cells (<3 days old) while the jelly is still thin. Priming allows one to quickly graft young larvae without damage. My best queens come from larvae that are only a few hours old--the same length as the egg is long. I graft about 150 in a half hour, and get usually about 90% take under good conditions. Much poorer take very early or late in the season. 24 hrs after grafting, the tiny larvae are floating in a huge pool of fresh jelly, and have their full larval life to differentiate into great queens. I need more magnification each year since I turned 40 (I'm 55 now). I use a krypton headlamp now to direct light. I like the clear plastic JZ's push in cups, since I can see if there is remaining jelly at the bottom of the cell after the queen has spun her cocoon. If there is excess jelly left, you know that she's been fed to excess. If there's no jelly left, you don't really know if she was fed enough. Randy Oliver -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 12:44:03 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Bees dying in Florida, Georgia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 15/12/2006 14:36:55 GMT Standard Time, cnhoney@JPS.NET writes: nosema is one to that sneaks up on keepers. Nosema ceraneae seems to be getting spread around the World very rapidly and apparently is a bit more virulent than the familiar Nosema apis we are used to. Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 13:22:15 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: K&W Jarrett Subject: Re: Bees dying in Florida, Georgia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chris, I've been hearing a lot of trouble with nosema of late. Many states are reporting problems, since almonds went above $80 pollination fee I have been treating for everything. Keith Jarrett Calif -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 15:23:22 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Jay Smith queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline I was taught grafting by Sue Cobey, developer of the New World Carniolans. Sue advises priming cells with royal jelley, not as feed for the larvae, but as a 'lubricant' of sorts to get the larvae off the grafting tool. This works for me. With my eyesight, I can't actually see the larvae being transferred. I know the larvae is on the end of the tool when it enters the cell, and I can see it inside the cell after transfer, but I have to rely on 'feel' to get it off the tool and onto the primed jelley. Sue Cobey advises that the workers immediately remove the royal jelley used for priming, replacing it with the good stuff. Since taking her course I have set up the cell builder/finishing colony as she suggested. That is, 10 lbs. of mostly-nurse bees shaken from 3-5 colonies, no brood of any age, and held for 6-12 hours before introduction of the grafted frame. It is truly amazing to see the bees instantly recognize the larvae and decend en masse onto the frame! I have had up to 22 (out of 24) large well-formed cells from such a setup. -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 16:03:51 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: George Fergusson Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lloyd Spear wrote: > > Sue Cobey advises that the workers immediately remove the royal jelley used > for priming, replacing it with the good stuff. That makes sense. At a queen rearing seminar put on by Tony Jadczak last spring, he related how he and another beekeeper once used yogurt mixed with water to prime the cells in lieu of royal jelly. Claimed it worked. Plain yogurt of course. Not the kind with fruit. George- -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 10:31:14 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Malcolm T. Sanford" Subject: Jay Smith queen rearing In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Another technique to moisten the grafting tool is to stick it in your mouth prior to going for the next larva. The saliva does a good job as a lubricant, and if you should make a mistake with a larva, you just pop it and the tool in your mouth, enjoy a taste of larva, get a bit of protein in the bargain, and go for another with a pre-moistened tool. Saves both time and motion. Malcolm T. Sanford Professor Emeritus, University of Florida http://beeactor.vze.com 352-336-9744 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 07:32:21 -0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Keith Malone Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, > Another technique to moisten the grafting tool =20 > Someone needs to change the subject over to "Grafting/Transferring Queen = Rearing" if the subject is going to continue on that path. The subject = in use currently does not use the Grafting/Transferring Queen Rearing = technique. I know enough about the technique I choose to not use it and = prefer the one that Jay Smith primarily settled on in his later years = after realizing the Grafting/Transferring Queen Rearing technique had = its flaws in producing the very best of Better Queens. He explains very = clearly why it is so in his book "Better Queens", it all has to do with = having the bees choose the correct age of the larvae and also how many = will be started by the cell builder hive. Bees look at artificial queen = cups with a beekeepers transferred larvae in them as already started = queen cells, and will do their best to continue working on them and = finish them even if they can not do their best job they would have done = if they were the ones starting them, because they will only start what = they know they can finish really good and complete. Bees choice not the = beekeepers, I know the bees know better than a beekeeper what is best = for them, but they will live with what the beekeeper does most times. = Like Mike Palmer says to some degree; "Bees make better beekeepers than = beekeepers make bees." . .. Keith Malone, Chugiak, Alaska USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 12:21:06 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Honey Filters Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-1F53E6F If anyone is using the Dadant in-line honey filter, and purchasing filter bags from Dadant, or similar felt bags, there are better cheaper bags available. The 50 micron bags that Dadant sells can't be washed. First use I get a barrel or a barrel an a half of honey, through the bag. Second time, after washing, is maybe half that. These bags are monofilament weave, meaning the particulates don't get caught between the fibers. They're available in a wide range of mesh sizes. I'm using two Dadant filters, the first with 150 micron bags. This gets rid of most foreign matter, and can be easily washed. I just put 30,000 lbs of honey through the same bag...washed many times. For this load, I only had the regular 50 micron felt bags. I have a box on 55 micron bags on order for the second filter. I figure I'll save somewhere around $1000 a year on filter bags. Instead of 300 or more bags a year, I just ordered 50 of each size, and I expect they'll last for years. Mike They can be purchased from: www.filtrationunlimited.com 716-542-4505 Jerry or Doug Part numbers: NMO150P4OSS 150 micron bag NMO55P4OSS 55 micron bag -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.22/590 - Release Date: 12/16/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 12:03:33 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20061217102516.0466ca20@pop.earthlink.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-3427A0B > Another technique to moisten the grafting tool is to stick it in your > mouth prior to going for the next larva. I do the same, the tip stays soft...plus...using the 'Chinese" grafting tool, the flexible tip picks up the larva and the puddle of jelly. No priming necessary. Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.22/590 - Release Date: 12/16/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 13:31:34 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>producing queens from larvae and leaving the choices of which age larvae to the bees who inherently know better than I what they prefer to do on their own. I enjoyed reading Jay Smith's book. I have also noticed that swarm bees typically build up a a base of wax underneath to have a queen cup bottom at the top of the cells. Keith, once your bees have raised the first batch of queens, do you reuse the queen cups by *making* the queen lay in them or do you always start out with a new comb strip with eggs? Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 05:12:58 -0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Keith Malone Subject: Re: Jay Smith queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Waldemar, > Keith, once your bees have raised the first batch of queens, do you reuse the queen cups by *making* the queen lay in them > I am lucky in our short season to have more than one shot at rearing queens but if timed right more than one batch can be made but not back to back. to answer your question directly I have not thought of doing that and really maybe not quite sure what you mean. I will put some thought into this and look closely next season at what is left over on the top bars the strips are attached to. > or do you always start out with a new comb strip with eggs? > Yes, presently that is how I do it but with freshly hatched larvae in the cells. . .. Keith Malone, Chugiak, Alaska USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 12:04:16 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: SHB & trypanosomatid Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Here are a couple of abstracts posted on Bombus-L relating to bumble bees and honey bees that might be of interest. Regards, Dick Allen Ecological Entomology Volume 31 Issue 6 Page 623 - December 2006 doi:10.1111/j.1365-2311.2006.00827.x Volume 31 Issue 6     Infestation of commercial bumblebee (Bombus impatiens) field colonies by small hive beetles (Aethina tumida) SEBASTIAN SPIEWOK1 and PETER NEUMANN2,3,4 Abstract. 1. The small hive beetle, Aethina tumida, is a parasite of honeybee (Apis mellifera) colonies native to sub-Saharan Africa and has become an invasive species. In North America the beetle is now sympatric with bumblebees, Bombus, not occurring in its native range. Laboratory studies have shown that small hive beetles can reproduce in bumblebee colonies but it was not known whether infestations occur in the field. 2. For the first time, infestation of bumblebee colonies by small hive beetles was investigated in the field. Commercial Bombus impatiens colonies (n = 10) were installed in proximity to infested apiaries. Within 8 weeks, all colonies that were alive in the 5-week observation period (n = 9) became naturally infested with adult small hive beetles and successful small hive beetle reproduction occurred in five colonies. 3. In four-square choice tests, the beetles were attracted to both adult bumblebee workers and pollen from bumblebee nests, suggesting that these odours may serve as cues for host finding. 4. The data indicate that bumblebee colonies may serve as alternative hosts for small hive beetles in the field. To foster the conservation of these essential native pollinators, investigations on the actual impact of small hive beetles on wild bumblebee populations are suggested.   Ecological Entomology Volume 31 Issue 6 Page 616 - December 2006 doi:10.1111/j.1365-2311.2006.00823.x Volume 31 Issue 6   Honey bee and bumblebee trypanosomatids: specificity and potential for transmission MARIO X. RUIZ-GONZÁLEZ1 and MARK J. F. BROWN1 Abstract. 1. Experimental studies of multihost parasite dynamics are scarce. Understanding the transmission dynamics of parasites in these systems is a key task in developing better models of parasite evolution and to make more accurate predictions of disease dynamics. 2. Bumblebee species (Bombus spp.) host the trypanosomatid parasite, Crithidia bombi. Its transmission in the field occurs through the shared use of flowers. Flowers are a perfect scenario for inter-taxa transmission of diseases because they are used by a wide range of animals. 3. Honey bees host a poorly studied trypanosomatid, Crithidia mellificae. In this study, five questions have been experimentally addressed: (a) Can C. bombi infect honey bees? (b) Can C. mellificae infect bumblebees? (c) Can the honey bee act as a vector for C. bombi? (d) Are C. bombi cells present in honey-bee faeces? (e) Does C. bombi have an effect on the mortality of honey bees after ingestion? 4. While both parasites were found to be specific to their hosts at the genus level, results suggest that honey bees may play a role in the epidemiology of C. bombi transmission. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 17:56:23 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Xfering crystalized honey into jars. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have several buckets of crystalized fall honey. It has a nice, fine texture and is delicious. My dilemma is: how to transfer it into jars without creating air pockets? I'd like to avoid it but do I need to melt it first and then let it re-crystalize in jars? Are there types of jars better suited than others for creamed honey? All advice is very welcome. :) Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 11:23:03 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu Comments: RFC822 error: MESSAGE-ID field duplicated. Last occurrence was retained. From: "VEPEX, Lambert van der Veen" Subject: Some Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, I have some questions to ask and I hope somebody can help me out. Somebody mentioned to me that honey has an expiring date of 3 years and he was very serious about it. I may be mistaken but does honey have an expiring data at all? I know a small hobby beekeeper, who uses an incubator in his queen rearing operation. Is this a new idea or a proven practice? Is it safe to buy queen cells or queens raised by this method? Thanks, Lambert van der Veen -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 14:33:54 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dan&jan Subject: Re: Some Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>I may be mistaken but does honey have an expiring data at all?<< Honey DOES NOT HAVE AN EXPIRATION DATE. There are a few things that can happen: crystallization- can be reliquidfied by gentle heat some of the aroma may be reduced especially if kept in warm conditions general and or sunlight. So if your friend is speaking about the above he may have a point but the honey is still fine. Many times people think that crystallization is equated with spoilage Dan Veilleux in the mountains of NC zone 6a -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 15:52:58 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Xfering crystalized honey into jars. In-Reply-To: <20061221.095719.14368.1518175@webmail23.nyc.untd.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit waldig@netzero.com wrote: > I'd like to avoid it but do I need to melt it first and then let it > re-crystalize in jars? Are there types of jars better suited than > others for creamed honey? > It depends on how solid it is, but I have often shoveled it out and packed it into a wide mouth jar. There will be air pockets at first, but the honey will eventually fill them up. Unless the texture is better than most crystallized honey, I would not pass it off as creamed, since that is fine textured. There is a big difference. Those who know honey will appreciate your not heating it and accept the small air pockets (which will go away in time). Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 16:09:20 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: packing crystalized honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline I'll give some short answers and let others elaborate, if they wish. Heat the honey to 90-100 degrees F. It will not destroy the crystals you like so much and will then fill containers without air. Best containers IMHO are glass. 6-sided or anything with a wide mouth...wide enough to get a tablespoon into. At least 70MM. THAT SAID, every defect in bottling, storage, or color will then show. By putting the honey into glass you are saying 'i'm proud of this stuff, and the reasons show'! On the other hand, most creamed (spun, etc.) honey is put into opaque containers (such as cottage cheese) just so the buyer can't see all those defects! We only pack in to glass or clear plastic. Hope this helps. Lloyd -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 21:26:39 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Honey expiration.... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Honey will remain sweet and tasty for a very long time but compounds, such as diastase, will start decreasing. EU does not allow the sale of honey with diastase levels below 8 units... I am not aware of any such restrictions in either of the Americas. More info at http://www.fao.org/docrep/w0076e/w0076e06.htm Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 16:39:57 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Xfering crystalized honey into jars. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 21/12/2006 18:09:32 GMT Standard Time, waldig@NETZERO.COM writes: I have several buckets of crystalized fall honey. It has a nice, fine texture and is delicious. My dilemma is: how to transfer it into jars without creating air pockets? If you warm it gently to the mid 70s F it should flow rather than run and will be fluid enough for air pockets to dispel within a short time. Here in the UK we favour squat 1 pound jars that have an entrance 6cm wide, the lidded jar standing 9.5cm. Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 16:52:15 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Some Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 21/12/2006 18:16:52 GMT Standard Time, vepex@SYMPATICO.CA writes: Somebody mentioned to me that honey has an expiring date of 3 years and he was very serious about it. I may be mistaken but does honey have an expiring data at all? Depends where you are and local regulations. In the EU these has to be a 'Best before' date on labels but no guidance as to how long this should be. In practice one estimates how long the batch of labels will last and allows a margin for error. There is also a maximum permitted level of HMF in honey sold as table honey rather than for cooking. This 40ppm. Honey that has not been heated and is kept cool is unlikely to exceed this for several years whereas the level will soon be reached when honey is heated or stored in warm ambient temperature. There is no easy and cheap way for the amateur beekeeper accurately to estimate the HMF level in the honey he sells, although there seems to be an indirect relationship with levels of H2O2 which can be checked with test strips that change colour. Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 16:27:07 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Larry Krengel Subject: Historical bee facts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good afternoon, all - I am working on an article for a farming magazine on the subject of the mite problems in the bee world. We are including a number of sidebars. The editor is interested in some "wacky" historical (or scientificly intersting) facts that relate to the honey bee. I have started a list, but thought I would tap the collected wisdom of Bee-L for some short-shots that will make readers verbalize a "Wow..." We all find a fascination with honey bees and I would like to develop that in the reader. If you don't think this is of sufficient interest to the list, send it to me on the side. Thanks for your help. Larry Krengel Marengo, IL -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 17:33:32 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Insanity in the Family Comments: To: irishbeekeeping@yahoogroups.co.uk MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My son Charlie is intending to go for a swim in the chilly English Channel at Charmouth on Christmas Day while dressed as a bee!!!!!!!!!!! By doing so he hopes to get some publicity and and maybe some donations for Bees for Development. If you're interested, look at the Bees for Development web site. Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:27:07 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Some Questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Lambert van der Veen wrote: >I know a small hobby beekeeper, who uses an incubator in his queen >rearing operation. Is this a new idea or a proven practice? Is it safe >to buy queen cells or queens raised by this method? The use of electric incubators is common among queen breeders. I can't really think of anything that might happen in an incubator that would create a problem later, aside from outright killing them. Usually, if the queen is damaged at this point she won't hatch out. If the temperature is the same as in a hive, as it should be, there should be no ill effects. Poor queens can result from a variety of shoddy practices but an incubator would be the least of my worries. pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 21:36:22 -0600 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: packing crystalized honey In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >On the other hand, most creamed (spun, etc.) honey is >put into opaque containers (such as cottage >cheese) just so the buyer can't see all those defects! I think rather that since glass is expensive and creamed honey is not transparent at all that choosing a plastic container instead of glass is more a choice of economics. Would you put cottage cheese into a glass container? I doubt it. There is a reginal dairy company here who is putting milk into traditional like glass containers on the super market shelves. Nothing different about the milk, but its twice as expensive as the milk in plastic...why? Other than the novelty, because glass is expensive. -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---