========================================================================= Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 19:04:37 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: ZOECON gives it to Beekeepers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: > ttul, the OLd Drone > > Final Solution to V. mites @ > http://beenet.com/mites/killem.htm It sure felt good to finally confront a mite and say, "Well punk, do you feel lucky?"Sorry to say for the mite, my son and I turned the screen black! Thanks Andy. -Barry -- Barry Birkey Illinois, USA -------------------------------- BIRKEY.COM Web Design & Digital Illustration -------------------------------- 630.293.1181 ph > 630.293.3613 fx barry@birkey.com > http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 00:17:46 -0700 Reply-To: jcbach@yvn.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James C Bach Subject: Spacing hives in an apiary MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Robert Cessac asks about spacing hives in an apiary. Bees in hives placed in straight lines tend to drift into the hives on both ends of the lines during foraging, especially if the hives are all one color. Canadian research demonstrates that hives are best placed in a "u" configuration to reduce drifting. Generally speaking the hive entrances should face from east to south, away from prevailing winds. I place my hives two to a homemade pallet and face each pallet at 22 or 45 degrees to the next. I do not put the pallets in a straight row, nor behind another pallet, but set them randomly about the apiary site. I plan four to six feet between pallets so that I can work each set of two from the side of the hives (not the front or back). If forced by the size or shape of the apiary site to put the pallets closer together, I try to have ten to twelve feet between rows of pallets but each pallet turned slightly in relation to the next. The hives should be set on level ground so that you do not have trouble walking and carrying the equipment to and from the hives. (A safety issue.) You might want to put the pallets in two crooked rows so that you can drive your truck between the rows to reduce walking with heavy supers. The rows should be far enough apart that the bees are not greatly impacted by your truck being in their flight pattern. James C. Bach Yakima WA jbach@agr.wa.gov jcbach@yvn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 15:36:28 +0200 Reply-To: drs@kulmbach.baynet.de Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Reimund Schuberth" Subject: Re: I still find Q cells MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Graham, do my opinion and own experience it is better to put the old queen into a new hive at a new site. I usually take one frame with open brood cells (the rest are frames with foundation) and put it at the place of the old hive. This old hive will get the elder flying bees (without the old queen). I destroy the produced Q-cells of this hive a few days later and can requeen it or unify with an other (possibly the old) hive. The old queen will more likely loose its swarm-tendency by this way. But independent of that the old queen may have been too old. They are mostly the elder queens that have the tendency to swarm. So hardly any of the common methods for prevention of swarming can fail. sincerely Reimund ___________________________ Beekeeper in Germany (Bavaria) Queen Rearing of Carniolan Bees Insemination Station ___________________________ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:38:04 +0200 Reply-To: drs@kulmbach.baynet.de Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Reimund Schuberth" Subject: Re: Apiary Layout MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Robert, surely the bees will work independently of the way you place them. But there is some general advice for you according to what kind of disadvantages you prefer. ;) The hives can be placed in line directly beside each other. This means that foraging bees will loose their way and will preferably enter the hives at both sides of the line. These hives always will be stronger and have more honey. If you don't mind this you can place them in line, because it is a very comfortable working, if you have the hive close to each other in the same direction. Surely there will be less diffusion of the bees when the lines are shorter, the directions of flighing are different, the distances of the hive are greater or if there are any landmarks like trees, bushes beside the bees. Independent to this you should look for a warm place sheltered from the wind nearby to a water source. I personally don't like this way of placing the bee hives (in line), because I want to know the best hives in order to find the best queen for breeding. I prefer placing the bees in blocks of 4 hives flying to all four corners of the earth. So the bees rarely will loose their way and it is relativly easy to work at them. According to my experiences the amount of collected honey is independent of the flight direction. Sincerely Reimund ____________________________ Beekeeper in Germany (Bavaria) Queen Rearing of Carniolan Bees Insemination Station ____________________________ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 00:24:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JonDeGroot Subject: Smoker Contest Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Bill Truesdell, How is a Smoker Contest conducted? What are the rules and judging criteria? Sounds like a fun thing to do at our upcoming annual summer apiary inspection / demonstration / picnic. Thanks, John de Groot ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 01:49:01 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: I still find Q cells In-Reply-To: <3545DB5B.7C4DCEBE@kulmbach.baynet.de> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > ... it is better to put the old queen into a new hive at a new site. > I usually take one frame with open brood cells (the rest are frames > with foundation) and put it at the place of the old hive. This old > hive will get the elder flying bees (without the old queen)... Interesting. This runs counter to the usual advice, since you wind up introducing a queen among old bees and also trying to get old bees to make wax. Neither of these are normally recommended practice. In fact they are diametrically opposed. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:20:54 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dr Max Watkins Subject: Re: ZOECON gives it to Beekeepers In-Reply-To: <199804282037.NAA11455@mail.thegrid.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Hi Andy, I just had a comment to make, below. In message <199804282037.NAA11455@mail.thegrid.net>, Andy Nachbaur writes >All this bad press and talk about Apistan and how it is failing to control >V. mites has prompted Zoecon the infamous to offer a new program for >beekeepers announced to a selected few with a slick post card from their >advertising agency. (GOD protect us all from those with such talents wasted >on projects like this when they could be out doing good works like >promoting HONEY instead of feeding off its good will and that of people who >keep bees.) > >Following in the shadow of General Mills "Save the Bees" rip off box top >offer comes the Apistan "Hive To Honey with Apistan" and ZOECON's big big >bigger cash rebate program of $ 00.05 cash.Yep the big five, five cents a >strip but only to those who buy a minimum 600 strips or more, limited to >one person, who buys the 600 or more strips on the same day. WOW a big >$30.00 discount paid for by all those who don't buy 600 or more strips at >one time every day. > >Here's your friendly dusty company who's selling you all a product that may >not work but costing you $5.00 or more per hive per year and they are going >to give a big nickle of that to some big bad commercial beekeeper who more >then likely is the reason you have varroa mites in the first place and you >should bee happy in your work. > >What a deal, we all should feel a lot better now that our bees are living >better through chemistry and reserve a special place for ZOECON and all >dusty chemical sales man or woman in the next life. At the same time we >should be trying alternatives as if nothing else by their use we are >monitoring our hives better to see if they work and sending a message to >those who would regulate us and their chemical company partners. > I don't know about their marketing strategy in the US and I realise that not everyone is in favour of chemical companies but what is the alternative? If Apistan hadn't been invented, specifically for the bee industry, I would guess at least half of the bee colonies in the United States and the rest of the world would now be dead and many beekeepers and growers would have lost their livlihood. Pollination would be more difficult and therefore expensive and food would now cost that much more. Zoecon was not perfect, who is? but the consequences of them NOT developing and providing such a useful tool would have been truly devastating for beekeeping. And before you say it, home remedies would just not have been enough to save the day. That's my two cents worth anyway. Max >Give us a break ZOECON, WELMARK International or what ever you call >yourselves today. Some of us know a little about the cost of things and you >have lived up to your name, WELLMARK and we bee keepers have been the >"mark". Maybe a 20% or 30% reduction in price across the board would better >match the reduction in efficacy of your product. > >ttul, the OLd Drone > >Final Solution to V. mites @ >http://beenet.com/mites/killem.htm > > >(c)Permission is given to copy this document >in any form, or to print for any use. > >(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! -- Dr Max Watkins ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:34:06 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter Subject: Smoker fuel Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Wood chips work great for smoker fuel and the local tree company drops off 12-15 cubic yards of them in my driveway probably more than enough to fuel the smokers in the USA for a week or two. Although I also use them as garden mulch to keep weeds down. The 5lb paper sacks that sugar comes in are the ideal smoker fuel containers as they provide the kindling and hold at least a days worth of fuel. Cherry and pine seem to smell the best and at the end of the day I put a wad of paper in the spout which stops the smoker and leaves enough dry fuel inside to start the next day. Tom ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:54:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Guy F. Miller" Subject: Apitherepy Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have a few hives in my back yard, and have been asked by a woman with MS if I could supply her with some bees. I don't know where to start. Will any honey bee do? I suppose I'll just put them in a small jar. Do the bees need any supplies? How long will they last in a jar?. etc, etc. Any advice? Guy F. Miller "Start every day with a smile, and get it over with." Charlottesville. VA W.C. Fields ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:07:43 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Apithrerapy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT For the rest of the story, surf to http://www.beesting.com Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:28:39 -0400 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Apiary Layout MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Robert J. Cessac wrote: > > Can someone tell what is the best distance beehives should be spaced in > an apiary? I plan to have 24 hives. Should they be all in a straight > line, two 12 hive lines or four 6 hive lines? How far apart when in > line and how far apart between lines? I have always heard the conventional wisdom that the hives should be irregularly spaced and not in a straight line, because of the increased tendency to drift to the end hives. However, in two of my yards, it is impossible to do this because they must be placed at the edge of a field and inside the fence line. Therefore the layout dictates that they must be in a straight line, and because I cannot just drive onto crops in the farmer's field, I placed the hives as closely together as possible to save steps. These two yards are by far my best producers, with every hive (12 or 13 per yard) packed with bees. I cannot tell that there is any drifting at all, or if so, drifting from one hive is made up by drifting from others. The only problem I have is that I have to work the hives either from the back alone (preferred) or from the front alone, since there are only about 6 inches between hives. My other yards have hives irregularly arranged. They do not do badly either, and are far more easy to work because of more work room. So what I am saying, is that in my opinion it does not matter how the hives are arranged. Whatever works out best for you is OK. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:28:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Smoker Contest MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all John de Groot wrote: >our upcoming annual summer apiary inspection >/ demonstration / picnic. I was recently railroaded into the post of vice-president of our local bee club (The Niagara Regional Beekeepers Association) ( I avoided being President by nominating someone else...;) and am looking for ideas to spice up our meetings. Recently they have consisted of a general discussion of beekeeping, which sometimes digresses into politics or the weather, then after coffee there is "show and tell" where Gord shows one of his many inventions...;) It's always entertaining, but I think we could improve the meetings a bit. I was wondering if John could give some more details of the above, and if anyone else has some unique ideas. Next month we are showing a video and the Provincial Apiarist is coming. I understand a recent issue of Bee Culture has an article on this topic and I have just ordered a subscription and some back issues. Ian Watson realtor@niagara.com real estate agent gardener baritone beekeeper---> 12 colonies ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 18:16:26 +0200 Reply-To: drs@kulmbach.baynet.de Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Reimund Schuberth" Subject: Re: I still find Q cells MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Allen, this is quite usual in Germany and maybe in other parts of the world. Especially when you expect honey from the forest in summer you can keep your hives strong after reunifiing both hives. For this reason the hives are put above each other (queen with young bees above, then you brake out the queen cells in the bottom brood chamber and reunify). > Interesting. This runs counter to the usual advice, since you wind up > introducing a queen among old bees and also trying to get old bees to make > wax. You use a frame with brood to keep the elder bees in the hive at the old place. They will produce queen cells which you could use (Unfortunately the bees also use elder larvas for queen production and these wouldn't bring the best queens). Better it will be to break them out before hatching of the queens and requeen at that time when the queens would normally hatch. It is quite usual that foraging elder bees produce wax as they usually do this after swarming. And this situation of the method of swarm-prevention is similar. > Neither of these are normally recommended practice. In fact they are > diametrically opposed. > > Allen You can be sure, it works. Reimund ___________________________ Beekeeper in Germany (Bavaria) Queen Rearing of Carniolan Bees Insemination Station ___________________________ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:46:23 -0400 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Apitherepy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Guy F. Miller wrote: > > I have a few hives in my back yard, and have been asked by a woman with MS > if I could supply her with some bees. I don't know where to start. Will > any honey bee do? I suppose I'll just put them in a small jar. Do the bees > need any supplies? How long will they last in a jar?. etc, etc. Any advice? > I have some advice, relevant in these adversarial times: 1) Don't give any opinion as to whether or not bee stings might have any effect on MS ( or cancer, or arthritis, etc.). You may be charged with practicing medicine without a license (unless you are a licensed practioner, that is.) 2) Remember that some people may have severe allergies to bee stings (some without even knowing it), and a single sting might kill someone. Are you prepared for the consequences of this? I personally will not supply bees for apiotherapy, nor will I give tours through my yards, even though I have often been asked for both. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan, USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:14:01 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Kerry Clark of AGF 784-2225 fax (604) 784 2299" Subject: cardboard as smoker fuel MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Dr Frank Eischen at USDA Weslaco has been assessing the relative toxicity of smoke from various materials, to varroa and bees, to see if some such method might contribute to varroa management. I think there have been 2 brief reports in ABJ, one in Frank's column and another in the ABRC proceedings (2 or 3 years ago). As I recall, one of the smoker materials found to be most toxic to bees (but not mites) was corrugated cardboard, although with usual smoker use a toxic effect wouldn't likely be noticeable. Corrugated cardboard is very variable and is often made from recycled used cardboard. Perhaps only occasional pieces have a toxic component, but I don't find it a very nice smoke anyway. Personal preference: dry poplar twigs. They're available within steps of nearly every yard near here (I have to keep a pail of them in the truck for days after a rain) and have a pleasant campfire smell. (I'll also use nice dry cow or horse manure if it's handy). Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist B.C. Ministry of Agriculture and Food 1201 103 Ave Dawson Creek B.C. V1G 4J2 CANADA Tel (250) 784-2231 fax (250) 784-2299 INTERNET kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:05:07 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: Pollen software updated! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello all! I have just now uploaded the pollensoftware updated to work on fat32. Some minor bugs is fixed so as not able to find the helpfile! It was installed in a wrong directory. Why not when you are at it take a look on the whats new page :-) I am now working on getting the win3.1 edition of bidata up to date and will anounce it when this has finished. I think it will be the last win3.1? I will release. regards Jorn Johanesson Beekeeper since 1970 EDBi = Beekeeping software since 1986 homepages http://wn.com.au/apimo http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo e-mail apimo@post4.tele.dk ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:04:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: smoker fuels In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Over at Cornell Dr. Calderone got me using wood pellets for smoker fuel. I hadn't heard of this before, but since I heat my home with hardwood pellets anyway, I usually have them around, and now I prefer them for the smoker,too. You have to get a good hot fire going first, with paper/pine needles/twine or whatever, but then the pellets get going easily after they are dumped in on top. A loose clump of grass over all will help to keep hot pellets from rolling out if you tip the smoker downward (like at the entrances). It lasts a long time between fuelings, a real plus, and a smoker will often still be going the next morning. It may look dead, but a few good puffs on the bellows brings it back in short order. Re-load and off you go. The pellets disintegrate after a while, probably due to the moisture given off by burning, but continue to smolder fine even so. If you have access to them, you might give this fuel a try... ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 15:57:28 -0600 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: Smoker Contest MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:28:46 -0400, Ian Watson wrote: >I was recently railroaded into the post of vice-president >of our local bee club (The Niagara Regional Beekeepers Association) >( I avoided being President by nominating someone else...;) >and am looking for ideas to spice up our meetings. Try bringing flowers that the bees work for honey, some of the new beekeepers may not know what the bees make honey from in thier area.We do this at our monthly meeting called "What Blooming". Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm Carencro LA. 900+ Hives ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:45:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John A Skinner Subject: Re: Queens Piping In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Adrian, We listened and watched several virgin queens pipe today. I've seen mated queens as others report pipe in the cage, actually three different "tunes" distinquishable by change in pitch. My question is Why do they pipe. I've heard several opinions, What's yours? thanks, grins, John - Live long and pollinate John A. Skinner 218 Ellington Hall Extension Apiculturist University of Tennessee jskinner@utk.edu Knoxville, TN 37901 (423)974-7138 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:14:50 -0400 Reply-To: vcoppola@froggernet.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Apiary Layout MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ted Fischer wrote: > I have always heard the conventional wisdom that the hives should be > irregularly spaced and not in a straight line, because of the increased > tendency to drift to the end hives. However, in two of my yards, it is > impossible to do this because they must be placed at the edge of a field > and inside the fence line. ..... Hi Ted, I have the same problem in some yards. A friend from Ontario saw my hives all in a row and told me that research, somewhere in Canada, has determined that drifting can be minimized by changing the angle of the front of adjacent colonies by at least 30 deg. Now if I have a situation that demands a straight line I use a zig zag pattern. With pallets I just tip them one way then the other as they are set down, with H stands I make a line of 2 or 3 in a zig zag, leave a space to walk thru, then 2 or 3 more. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:29:03 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Robert J. Cessac" Subject: Apiary Layout MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to every one that responed to my inquiry. -- Robert Cessac K-B Ranch Natural Beef & Honey 2362 St. Rt. O Higbee, MO 65257 rcessac@mail.coin.missouri.edu ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:30:46 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Smoker Contest MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jon, The rules were in Gleanings, I think, a few years ago. Everyone has one minute to light their smoker. They set it down for five minutes. You are not allowed to touch the smoker during this time. After five minutes they can smoke it for one minute, but cannot re-lite it or add fuel. If it does not smoke, the person is out and the smoker is tipped over. The smokers are set down again for fifteen minutes or longer. You are not allowed to touch the smoker during this time. At the end of that time, the judge checks each smoker to see if it is lit. Those that are not are out. Those that are still lit are checked for quality of smoke which is totally arbitrary and up to the judge. Generally, though, the amount of smoke after five or so puffs and its coolness are the main things looked at. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME JonDeGroot wrote: > How is a Smoker Contest conducted? What are the rules and judging criteria? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 06:50:00 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Subject: How to Cut Out Long Quotes In-Reply-To: <3548590D.1BC94CA5@together.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Allen Dick wrote to : > > > You are right, of course, but ditch the long quote, and re-post. > > > > TIA > How do I do that? You know, I can run a thousand colonies of bees, but > when it comes to this stupid machine, even "The internet for dummies" > confuses me. My attention span for the printed word is sadly lacking. Sorry, I guess some of us take editing for granted. It is simple, once you know how. Here is a tip. Save it someplace safe if you find it useful... Mouse click at the start of what ever you want to wipe out, and, keeping the left button down, wipe over the text you want to erase, and then release the button when you are at the end of the offending section of text. The wiped area will now be in reverse colour (highlighted). Now simply press the 'delete' key (or start to type). The highlighted text will disappear instantly. Made an error? Just hold down the 'Ctrl" key and touch 'z'. Everything should return to how it was. How much to erase? If you are responding to anything recent, likely little or no quotes are needed. If you have been rooting around in the logs and the article is a year old and you want to re-open discussion, a carefully chosen paragraph or two may suffice. > How are the bees doing way up north? They're amazing here. Making > nucs as fast as I can. Looks like everything is a week or so ahead. > Apple pollination about May 10. Amazing is the word. I am thinking seriously of adding thirds and our packages are already needing seconds. Allen FWIW, Our local weather is at: http://innova.tor.ec.gc.ca/forecasts/forecast.cgi?city=Calgary&province=Alb erta (note the line wrap) And as you can see we are at 8 degrees Celcius (15 F) above normal! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:52:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mike Griggs Subject: Funny Business in the Honey Business Comments: cc: beek@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii" I have come across a good general interest article explaining the controversial Honey bee legislation. This will legislation will undoubtedly affect the beekeeping industry in the years to come so all beekeepers big and small should inform themselves of what is at stake as well as both sides of the issue. I appears that big business, money and influence are the driving force motivating the issue. As a small beekeeper looking towards growing I feel the implications of this to my future business are not beneficial. I would like a more open an objective information made available by the influential people/groups supporting the issues concerns and benefit, not only to me but to the industry as a whole. The Honey Board was devised to benefit the beekeeping industry and not to serve a few individuals. I do not see this legislation as serving my interests. Check out the article and see what you think. I have it posted up at the following site since both bee trade magazines have blocked efforts at publishing opposing views of this issue. http://128.253.66.35 Mike Griggs President Finger Lakes Beekeepers Association 272-5791 _______________________________________________________________ A Swarm of Bees in May Is worth a load of hay; A swarm of Bees in June Is worth a silver spoon; A swarm of Bess in July Is not worth a fly.