Overview, Construction, Harvest, Miscellaneous I. OVERVIEW AND HISTORY OF TOP BAR HIVES 1. What is a top bar hive (tbh)? A tbh is a movable comb hive. Narrow bars, normally of wood, rest across a container (usually a long box or trough), which forms the cavity containing the bees' nest. Bees build comb from the bars which are wide enough to give proper spacing between combs. A bar with its attached comb and adhering bees can be removed from the hive and examined. Each comb is built naturally by the bees, suspended from its top-bar. (i.e., none of the combs is enclosed in a complete frame.) No **full sheets** of comb-foundation *are* used. 2. Are tbh's "legal" to use? Yes, in so far as I know, since all of the bars and combs can be moved to enable inspection of the hives to comply with laws in those states or municipalities that require inspection. 3. What is a top bar (tb)? Top bars are the "slats" to which comb is attached. Placed side by side across the hive cavity/container, they form a roof for the hive. Bars may be made from a variety of materials. They can be cut from scrap or purchased lumber, may be made from tree branches or bamboo of appropriate size. The bars may be of any suitable length to reach across the hive, but it is critical that they be of appropriate width (or diameter) to provide proper spacing of combs for the species or strain of bees involved. An outer lid or covering is provided over the bars, for additional protection from the elements. 4. Who invented tbh's? It probably isn't really known, but according to Eva Crane on p. 300-301 of her *opus magnum*, "Bees and Beekeeping", the earliest knowledge of tbh development was in Sir George Wheeler's book, "A Journey into Greece" published in 1682. Wheeler describes basket tbh's. One of his illustrations is reproduced on p. 301 of Crane's book. The Greeks for centuries have been utilizing upright, woven "baskets" as hives. Bars placed across the top of each basket individually support the combs. By removing each bar, the attached comb can be examined or moved. Evidently, due to the slope of the basket shape (narrower toward the bottom), the bees do not attach their combs to the sides (or do so only minimally). Therefore each comb is movable by removing the top bar from which it has been built. In Britain and North America, bar-type hives of various sorts were often used in days of old. However, the combs were invariably attached to the sides of the hive as well as to the bars. Therefore the side-attachments had to be cut away in order for the combs to be removed. This was not much of an improvement over straw skeps or simple box hives. 5. When was the tbh invented? Loooooooong ago. Obviously prior to 1682. 6. Why was the tbh invented then further developed more recently? I can't say for certain, but it was probably to provide a means of keeping bees, rather than of just "having" bees. With a tbh it is no longer necessary to kill the bees to harvest honey, nor are brood combs disturbed. In many areas of the world today, tbh's are used because the "low tech" aspects of tbh's meld better with the social and economic conditions at the present time. [Tim Haarmann] You mention "low tech". I like to think of the TBH as a "moderate tech hive". I think of a container of bees (used in many parts of the world) with no moveable frames as low tech, the TBH as a moderate tech. hive, and the Langstroth as a high tech. hive. I often talk to people about the "natural/ simple" aspects of the TBH, which appeals to a lot of the gardening, hobby beekeeper types. This is the market that I think can best benefit from TBHs. Who wants to sink $500 into a hobby right off the bat? A TBH is much cheaper and includes a lot less equipment. [Tim Haarmann] I think the TBH has a lot to offer people in more developed countries if we are willing to step away from the monster named technology and embrace the beauty of simplicity. [Kevin Palm] From information sent to me by Dr. James Tew of OSU, (and this is from memory), he states that the TBH was designed to be a transitional hive, helping beekeepers in developing countries make the step from log hives to the much more "advanced" Langstroth hives. 7. What are the advantages of beekeeping in tbh's? There are many in my opinion. Some of them might be: a) the hives are inexpensive and can be made by recycling scrap lumber or fashioning the hives from existing materials such as bamboo, reeds, clay, etc., b) there are no supers to lift, frames to nail together, sheets of foundation to put in frames, no extractor and supers with sticky combs to store, c) bees are disturbed less as the hives are worked, d) more beeswax is harvested since the combs are removed from the hive, e) the honey is "comb honey" and if it is pressed or squeezed from the virgin combs, it has a superior flavor...or so I believe. :) [Tim Haarmann] Not to mention that a well built TBH is much more attractive than a square, white, Lang. 8. What are the disadvantages of beekeeping in tbh's? There are several in my opinion. Consider these: a) the hives may require more management in that the brood may have to be spread to get good spring buildup or if the hive becomes honeybound, b) combs may have to be harvested regularly during a heavy honey flow rather than just adding another super, c) because surplus honey-combs are detached from their top bars in harvesting the crop, and are not reused, the tbh's are probably not capable of producing as much honey as supered Langstroth hives with drawn combs, d) newly drawn and filled combs must be handled carefully. Older brood combs are very tough, e) finally, tbh's may not be suitable for a beekeeper who must, psychologically, have the very best and very finest of the latest technology in everything, or who must produce more honey than anyone else. To prevent a "honeybound" condition (i.e., not enough empty comb available as laying space for the queen), the brood portion of the hive can be supplied with additional bars, to allow the bees to construct new combs within the nest. This provides ample laying room for the queen and reduces congestion during the spring buildup. The routines involved with tbh inspection and harvesting just differ somewhat from the procedures for movable-frame hives. [Tim Haarmann] You mention that the hives may require more management. I guess I feel that they require less management. I remember back when I was using Langs and a beginning beekeeper. One of my biggest frustrations was knowing when to add a super so my bees didn't swarm. To add to the frustration, I always had to have a super put together and ready to go. As you mention, the only management of a TBH is to make sure the bees don't get honey bound. This seems like a simple thing compared to the confusion I felt when I first started using Langs. Of course, it has become almost second nature knowing when to super a Lang now, but back then it was troublesome. I just don't see this same frustration in new beekeepers using a TBH. [Mike Allsopp] I am not an avowed fan of TBH's. My feeling is that they are fun to work with, and very suitable under certain conditions (strictly for hobbyist and sedentary beekeepers), but I am doubtful on whether we should be encouraging their general usage. I think I differ from others on this due to four things: 1. There is a lot of misinformation on the importance of certain features of TBH's, such as the slanting sides and the reduction in defensive behaviour. In reality, TBH's are just low technology, horizontal Langstroths. In East Africa these days they have given up the slanting sides as they make no difference. 2. No-one has yet to adequately test the performance (in monetary return) TBH's and Langstroths. I have a guy in Cape Town doing just this at present. At first glance the TBH's are very impressive, but over a couple of seasons their total honey yield is far below that of standard Langstroths. 3. TBH's should only be used if suitable hive material is available. How can we counternance the destruction of hard wood trees to produce TBH's or log hives, as is the practice in much of Africa? 4. And the major reason: All of us bee people in South Africa are involved to a lesser or greater extent in "beekeeping development programmes" - advancing beekeeping in the rural and disadvantaged communities. In this respect I believe advancing the use of TBH's is the wrong approach. The aim of the programmes I am involved with is the rapid development of semi-commercial beekeepers that can compete with the established beekeepers, not the provision of one or two hives to each member of the programme. I suggest that using TBH's for these people retards their chances of ever becoming successful commercial beekeepers, rather than advances it. You can't easily follow honey flows or do commercial pollination with TBH's. 9. Should a beginning beekeeper start with a tbh? It would seem that it might be best for a beginner to start with a pair of conventional hives and the associated equipment if it is financially possible. Certainly in many parts of the world more help and advice would be available than in others. But the honeybees don't care, and I really can't think of anything that should prevent a beginner from using and enjoying a colony of bees in a tbh. [Tim Haarmann] I have started a few people with TBH. After about a year, they are almost embarrassed to tell other beekeepers they don't use the high tech Lang--go figure? Sometimes I suggest a TBH to a new beekeeper, and tell them that if they like beekeeping after a year or two, then they can purchase some Langs and all the expensive equipment. A TBH is not a very big financial investment i.e. perfect for a beginner. However, most never want to give up their TBH. 10. Can tbh's be used for commercial honey production? In some sections of the world, tbh's are being used to produce honey that is sold in local markets. For the beekeeper whose goal is to produce tons of honey and to make a living keeping thousands of colonies, the tbh is probably not a suitable option. Allen Dick suggested that cut comb honey could possibly be produced profitably in tbh's. [Tim Haarmann] Les Crowder, the president of the NM Beekeepers Association promotes the use of TBHs. Les uses them for comb and chunk honey as well as some queen rearing. He is a perfect example of someone who has successfully integrated both types of hives into a commercial business. 11. Can tbh's be used to provide commercial pollination services? Dr. Wyatt Mangum is using around 200 Kenya tbh's to operate a pollination service in North Carolina. He loads the hives in the back of a pickup truck and on a trailer. Good, straight brood combs are never replaced in his hives, so some of the combs are old and very sturdy. Wyatt prefers using Kenya tbh's because the sloping side gives him a better center of gravity when he carries the hive. He says that it fits against his abdomen better. 12. What is a "honey cow?" Joel Govostes stated that in Bernhard Clauss' book on Botswanan beekeeping, the locals refer to the tbh's as "honey cows." Joel suggested that I could just add four legs and a head....say, that got me thinking. I am going to use some 30 gal plastic barrels this spring for tbh's. I'll make a cradle with four legs for the barrel half to rest in. Cut out a cow head and neck...grazing?...looking alertly?...decisions, decisions... add a tail. I'll use an arching tin roof on top. Then paint the entire hive white.... paint the black spotting of the Holstein (Freisen?) cow...eyes, etc. Then I'll put it down in the orchard...could have an entire herd.....yeah! [Tim Haarmann] Just an interesting side note. In Spanish we use the term "la colmena batea" to describe the TBH. colmena=hive and batea=trough. This, because it looks like a watering trough for livestock. Aagghhh, a new twist to honey cow! -end- II. CONSTRUCTION OF TOP BAR HIVES 1. How are tbh's made? A tbh is nothing more than a cavity with tb's and bees. Make the cavity in any way you can: new lumber, scrap lumber, plywood, particle board, reeds, straw, brick, clay, bamboo, old cabinet drawers, metal or plastic drums, large hollow logs. Hives made of reeds or straw have been plastered with cattle dung on the inside, then smoked over a fire to cure the inside coating. Sturdy cardboard boxes might work if they could be waterproofed in some way. Joel Govostes has considered using large diameter PVC pipe cut to an appropriate length, split lengthwise, then half-moon shaped pieces glued or nailed to each end. Would probably work. Paul van Westendorp commented that tbh's require quite a bit of wood compared to the amount of comb, and that in many parts of the world wood is very dear, very scarce. In his work with developmental beekeeping they make tbh frames out of wood then used woven material for the sides and bottom. He said the bees had no difficulties with this type of hive, but "the logistics to implement it proved enormous." [Tim Haarmann] Awhile back I purchased the cardboard Lang. nucs they advertised in some of the bee magazines. They are boxes made to fit 5 Lang frames. I was able to easily adapt them to hold TBs (working with cardboard is a snap). I weatherproofed the cardboard with a spray sealer, and they lasted the entire season no problem. Worked out to be real cheap. I have used bamboo, other jungle material, even sheets of black plastic to make hives. They work OK, especially in the tropics, but nothing can replace a solid piece of wood. A few of the beekeepers in my association have experimented with "pumice-crete" hives. Pumice is a locally available, light, volcanic rock. Mixed in place of regular rocks, it makes a light concrete. This hives proved impossible to move, but they are darn sturdy and can be passed down from generation to generation. I am sure one of these days we will try and make one out of Adobe, just to be southwestern about the whole thing. 2. What are good dimensions for tbh's? Dimensions are not critical for the hive. A good starting point would be the size of three full-size, deep, standard brood chambers placed side by side. This should produce a tbh that would require 30 tb's. Try 85cm long, 30cm deep, 50.5cm wide if you're more comfortable with specific dimensions. The only really important dimension is the width of the tb which varies with the species of bee. 25.4mm = 2.54cm = 1 inch 3. How are tb's made? For Italian honeybees, the width of the tb should be 35mm, for African bees, 32mm. Paul Magnuson said that when the African bees arrive in GA, USA, I can plane my 35mm bars to 32mm. [g] :) The bars can be cut on a table saw from new lumber or scrap wood. If scrap wood is used, avoid wood that might be treated or contaminated with insecticides or noxious chemicals. If wood isn't available, then tree limbs or bamboo of appropriate diameter can be used. I cut a centered groove 1/4 inch deep the length of my tb's. A foundation strip is waxed into the groove. On one side of the center of the bar, I cut a 3/8 x 3/4 inch notch. This notch is useful to observe where the bees are, and how far comb has been drawn out. The notches are covered with thin strips of some material such as plywood or masonite unless I wish to give the hive ventilation or provide more entrances. 1 inch = 2.54cm = 25.4mm Joel Govostes has made tb's by using two strips that together would total 35mm, then nailing them together with a starter strip of foundation between them. Clever! 4. Are there different types of tbh's? Two general types: those with sloping sides (Kenya tbh) and those with straight sides (Tanzanian). The hives with sloping sides supposedly allow the bees to build a natural, crescent-shaped comb that is attached to the sides very little. In practice, I have seen little difference in the amount of comb attachment whether the sides are sloped or straight. If you wish to build a hive with sloping sides, try an angle of at least 14 degrees from the vertical according to Ron Brown. He published an article titled "A TOP-BAR HIVE" in *The Beekeeper's Quarterly*, No. 44, in which he describes making a tbh from the bark-lined strips cut off logs at sawmills. [Tim Haarmann] Interesting you should mention all this. I have only used the sloping sides, having been taught you must do it or the bees will attach to the sides. Of course, they attach to the sloping sides as well, so apparently it doesn't really make a difference. One friend of mine tried lining the inside of his sloping hive with linoleum to see if they would be less likely to attach. It didn't work! 5. What is a catenary tbh? This is a variation on the top-bar/natural comb concept. Joel Govostes has made a catenary tbh, and has kept bees in it successfully. This hive was "invented" in the mid-1960's in England by W.B. Bielby. It is well described in his book, "Home Honey Production." The hive has the sides and bottoms fashioned from a single sheet of curved, thin plywood. Such a hive is about the same size as a standard hive, and is enlarged for surplus space by providing upper storeys ("supers"), as with a conventional frame-hive. The top-bars do not form a covering in this case--a bee-space/passage exists between each pair of top bars, again, like in a frame-hive. The catenary-hive top-bars are about 1" wide, this gives bees open access to combs above the brood nest. The typical inner cover and outer cover are used on top. The colony therefore expands vertically in a catenary hive, and not horizontally as in the usual (long) top-bar hives. There are photographs and drawings of this type of tbh on p.305 of Eva Crane's "Bees and Beekeeping" 6. Does a tbh have to have sloping sides? No. Sides can be straight. Supposedly the sloping sides will result in less comb attachment, but experience has shown that there doesn't seem to be a great deal of difference. Attachments are easily freed with a hive tool. I prefer to build straight sides. 7. Where should the tbh entrance(s) be? The entrances can be holes either down the sides or at one end. I have one hive with a series of 3/8 inch holes down both sides, and the bees use mostly the center holes on the east-facing side only. The remainder of my hives have a series of one inch holes (usually seven) on one end. Since I keep my hives side by side on waist-high stands so that I can work the hives without bending over, I have found it convenient to have the entrance holes at the end away from where the hive is opened for harvesting the surplus or inspecting the colony. With the holes at the end, the combs are oriented the "warm" way and form a series of baffles which might help overwintering by reducing drafts. If entrances are down the sides, the combs are aligned the "cool way" and might be better in hotter climates. I have no data to support these suppositions. In the summer I open the notches in my tb's near the front of my hives so that there are more entrances for the bees. The tb's also warp occasionally and make additional entrances. :) I haven't tried a hive with entrances only at the top. [Tim Haarmann] When making hives, I like to extend my bottom board out one end and that becomes the landing board (I'm sure you have seen this design). I then leave a 1-2 cm entrance all the way across the distance of the landing board. I then reduce the entrance in the winter much like I do my Langs. I think entrances are very over rated. Look at nature, bees can use 100 different kinds and seem to be equally as happy. I think I'll try your hole method, sounds fun. I like to use old lang hive bodies as stands for my TBHs. They are a little short, but they get the TBH off the ground. Besides, I like the symbolism of sitting a TBH on top an old Lang hive body. 8. What size and shape should the entrance(s) be? It doesn't seem to matter much if there are enough of them and the hive is strong. Smaller diameter holes are easier to defend in case of robbing. Duct tape or pieces of wood can be placed over entrance holes to reduce the number if management dictates that it be done. I usually reduce the entrance holes to two or three in the winter. Entrances could be made as slits the length of the end or side. 9. Are covers necessary on tbh's? Although the tb's do form a "roof" for the hive, it seems desirable to place some sort of cover over the bars to protect them from the weather. I have taken sheets of cardboard and tried to waterproof them with paint or a water repellent mixture. These sheets seem to last about a year. The 5-V tin which is used as roofing in the USA makes a good cover, especially if it is painted white to reduce heating. Sometimes the tin is available as scrap. I place bricks or stones along the center line of the tb "roof", let the tin cover arch over them, then load the tin cover down with four bricks. No cover has blown off yet in the Georgia summer thunderstorms. The tin covers can also be tied on easily. Covers could be made from plastic sheeting, thatch, large leaves, or most any other suitable material. [Tim Haarmann] We always make a cover out of plywood and then either paint it or put metal on top. I usually put a piece of 1X2 as edging so the cover doesn't slide off in the wind. We always have to weigh down the covers with rocks. A disadvantage is that spiders and ants love to hang out in this space where the bees can't get to. 10. Can drums and other containers be used to make tbh's? It is my understanding that large metal drums (55 gallon US??) have been used in Africa to make tbh's. Those hives would probably need to be shaded to prevent the metal from heating excessively. I will be trying some hives this next year, 1997, made from 30 gallon plastic, food grade drums. Blocks will be attached to stabilize the drums after I've split the drums lengthwise. With tb's along the top, the bees should build lovely, crescent-shaped combs. It will be interesting to compare comb attachment to the sides with my present straight-sided hives. The plastic barrels are translucent and might need a coat of paint to block the light out. I'll try one "as is" and paint the others. The *bees* will tell me what they prefer. Five-gallon plastic buckets, split lengthwise and provided with a half-moon shaped "front" and top bars have been used quite successfully for small demonstration colonies. 11. Can observation hives be made using combs and bees from tbh's? Yes indeed. I made up an observation hive using a single bar, and it was a delight. Just remember to make it wide enough for good bee space to either side of the comb on the bar. Make it whatever length you have for the bar that you are using. I used glass for the sides, with some opaque clothlike material used as curtains to cover the sides. Thin plywood would probably work better for the side covers. I *unwisely* mounted in hive in the window of a small greenhouse that had no temperature regulating system. In August of that year it was 100F+ inside at times, and a meltdown resulted. I didn't restart the hive in 1996, but probably will next year. I missed not having it. Don't know where to put it...perhaps in my bedroom, but NOT in the greenhouse. -end- IV. HARVESTING HONEY AND BEESWAX FROM TOP BAR HIVES 1. How is honey harvested from tbh's? The combs are cut off or broken from the tb's after the bees have been removed by brushing or some other means. The combs can be used directly to package cut comb honey. I think I'll try marketing full bars of honey, complete with the tb, taken directly from the hive and sold to customers who can appreciate comb honey directly from the hive. The combs and honey will require a good price, but some of my customers are already spreading the word that my honey is "the best that they have ever eaten." :) :) [big, big grin] If it's desirable to have "extracted" honey, then the honey can be crushed in a bag, squeezed by hand, squeezed with grooved paddles, or can be hung in a warm, sunlit window to let the honey drip into a container below the bag. I have made a press which has vertical plates that are pressed together by a scissor-type automobile jack. The honey flow downward and collects in a tub below the press. The pressed combs have very little honey left in them, though there is a little clinging to the mesh bag which contained the comb. I wash bag off in a tub of water, use the honey water to make honey pop, mead, or sometimes feed back to the bees. The crushed comb goes to my solar wax melter, and since it is virgin comb the resulting beeswax is exquisite. No sticky combs and supers to be concerned about. :) The press is much easier to clean up than an extractor. The result is less honey, but more beeswax. If I ever want more honey, I'll make more tbh's. I strain the honey through nylon hosiery (kneehi's work well), let it set overnight, then bottle it if needed; otherwise, it stays in bulk containers. Some very small bubbles may rise in the honey for several days after pressing. I thought at first the honey was fermenting, but I have come to the conclusion that pressing puts some air into the honey under high pressure and this air is slow to come out. Don't know for sure...I may be wrong about this, but the honey wasn't fermenting. 2. Can tb combs be extracted and reused? Probably. But I really don't care to get into that aspect for it takes me back closer to my former days of beekeeping. Imagine making a rack to hold a tb with a screen against which the uncapped comb could rest, then spin away in an extractor. Or, how about this. Take a bucket with a hardware cloth support that fits the top, uncap a comb, turn the bucket and support so that the support screen can be placed against the tb and comb. Rotate everything 90 degrees so that you're holding the bucket by the bail and the comb is resting on the support. Sling everything round and round...vertically?? Maybe two buckets on a rotating tree that can be slung around horizontally??? Too much bother for me...besides, I wouldn't get as much beeswax. 3. What are some practical ways to "extract" the crop from tbh's? The previous questions answer much of this area. I prefer to remove combs as they are capped and press the honey out. Ron Smithwick told me of uncapping combs (in frames) and putting them upside down in an ice chest which was then placed in the sun. The chest heats up and the honey drains from the combs. This might work for trying to uncap and reuse the tb combs, unless the combs became too hot and deformed. Pressing, squeezing, smushing seems the best way to extract. Seems that I have seen ads for a grinding centrifuge that separates wax and honey. That might work well, but I'll bet that the aeration of the honey would impair the flavor in comparison to honey gotten from the combs by pressing only. [Joel Govostes] Here is another method of "extracting" natural combs, once described by the late Mr. Allen Latham in his famous bee book: Take a large container, such as a pail or drum, and droop strainer cloth (about the mesh of fly-screen or a little larger) across it, hanging down about halfway. Nylon mesh is a good material for this. Secure the cloth well with closepins, drawstring, tape or whatever, around the edge of the container, to ensure it will not sink down in any further. Next construct a simple square wooden frame which will fit over and around the top of the container snugly. Staple or tack 1/2" mesh hardware cloth (metal screen) across this frame. Set the frame onto the pail or barrel, over the drooping strainer cloth. Now..."extract!" Simply lay a large piece of honeycomb on the screen surface, and using a wooden paddle or other implement, mash the comb through the screen. This is easy and rapid. The crushed wax and honey falls down into the strainer cloth, and you proceed with several more combs until you have loaded up the strainer well. Cover it up and place it in a warm place, and over the next couple of days, almost all of the honey will drain through the wax and down past the strainer into the pail. It is remarkable how well the wax will "drip-dry" of honey this way, especially if the unit is kept warm. A number of the units can be made up very inexpensively to handle even a fairly large crop. (sometimes a vehicle with the windows rolled up is a convenient warm spot for draining, as the sunlight heats up the interior. Just don't let any bees or other insects get in there! Or--the unit can be set into a warmer made up of an insulated box or modified old refrigertator, with the heat provided by an appropriate arrangement of light-bulbs. Just don't let it get too warm! A temperature of about 100 degrees works out well.) After pretty much all the honey has drained (2-3 days), lift the strainer cloth with its mass of wax out of the pail, and then treat the drained honey as you would any that came out of a centrifugal extractor. The cloth containing the wax can be tied and hung out near the bees, who will collect much of the residual honey through the material. Then the wax is ready for rinsing and melting into cakes. This method is quick, neat, and reliable, as long as the honey is not unusually thick or granulated. (Not to mention--it's cheap!) The finished product will not look any different from honey taken from an extractor, and will retain its fine, fresh aroma and flavor. The framed hardware cloth atop the container serves to rupture all the cells thoroughly as the comb is mashed, so that draining is very efficient. Another way to support the mashed comb in the strainer for draining is as follows: Cut a round piece of the same 1/2" mesh hardware cloth, the same diameter as the inside diameter of the pail about halfway down. Tack this round piece of metal screen to some wooden legs or a frame which, when placed down into the pail/barrel, will hold it about half way up off the bottom. Then you droop the strainer cloth down in over it as described above. The round piece of screen will thereby act as a sort of "table", inside the pail, supporting the weight of the wax/honey mash, and letting the honey pass through. Note: Some of your harvested combs are bound to be of very high quality particularly attractive, and they can be cut to fit into cut-comb honey containers. The leftover scraps can then be processed into liquid honey as described above. As with any extracted honey, a froth of air bubbles and wax particles will rise to the surface of the honey over the ensuing days or weeks. This is skimmed off prior to warming and/or straining a second time through fine mesh such as nylons. The honey can then be bottled as desired. (The froth skimmed from the honey can be recycled and not wasted, by feeding it (undiluted) back to your bees!) [end of JG's suggestions] [Tim Haarmann] It is important that if comb is anything other than fresh, it isn't advisable to squeeze the comb too much, it seems to disflavor the honey. I gently break up the comb full of honey, put it in a butterfly net, hang it, and let it drip into a container. I then take the rest of the comb and squeeze the honey out, but I keep this honey separate from the other. I like the stronger stuff, but some people don't. 4. Can comb honey be produced in tbh's? The honey that is produced in tbh's *IS* comb honey. You will get some beautiful combs that can be cut into sections and boxed. If by the question it is meant that sections or rounds be produced, then I suppose that you could mix in frames or add supers to do what you wish. But that's getting a little bit away from the utter beauty and simplicity of the tbh. See also section on extracting, above. 5. What can be done with the wax that is surplused from tbh's? Use it to make foundation, candles, wax your shoe laces, lubricate screw threads before driving the screw, wax a string to make a tin can chicken squaker or to make tin can telephones...the list goes on and on. Or sell the wax. Beeswax from this virgin comb that is produced when there are no Apistan strips on the hive should have no fluvalinate contamination. Should it not fetch a premium price, especially since it is very light in color? 6. Why is a solar wax melter a perfect complement to a tbh? You will get more beeswax by keeping tbh's because of what you will be doing and the management methods you will use. The passive solar rendering of the wax works well. Moreover, solar melters can be cobbled up from scrap wood just as can the tbh's. Using a solar melter is a low tech kindred philosophy to tbh beekeeping in my opinion. 7. What can be done with the honey/water that results from washing the combs that were pressed or squeezed to remove the honey? Use the mixture to make mead, honey pop, or add sugar (if desirable) to feed your bees. If you feed very dilute honey/water mixture, the mixture may begin fermenting before the bees have had a chance to take it in, and it may make a mess for you. It may well be that the bees will spend more energy harvesting the dilute honey than they will get out of it according to some statements I have read. -end- V. MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS RELATED TO TOP BAR HIVE BEEKEEPING 1. Who are some tbh beekeepers with whom to correspond and get help if needed? Well, I'm generally available to try to answer your questions based on my somewhat limited experience. Contact me at: jsatt@gsu.edu Joel Govostes has been very helpful to others in the past. His email address is: jwg6@cornell.edu [Tim Haarmann] Don't hesitate to list me as someone willing to answer questions. Especially relating to TBHs out here in the west (New Mexico, USA). Haarmannt@lanl.gov 2. Are there workshops or seminars on beekeeping in tbh's? Yes. There is a great deal of training being done in developmental beekeeping in several areas of our planet, and much of this centers around tbh's. There are some tbh beekeepers who have done workshops and made presentations at club meetings. One outstanding individual who has done this is Dr. Wyatt Mangum of North Carolina State University. I attended his presentations on the Kenya tbh and on his beekeeping museum which he gave at the annual Beekeeping Institute at Young Harris College, GA USA. He is superb. I don't know what he charges for his presentations, but I'll bet that you'd find it worth every penny. Incidentally, Wyatt Mangum gave an informative workshop on producing and judging (evaluating, selecting) queen cells. He uses his tbh's to produce the queen cells. This was an afternoon presentation at the Young Harris seminar that was targeted for smaller groups with more directed interests. Good information! I have heard of of an individual who does a workshop on tbh beekeeping who is out on the west coast, USA if I recall correctly. Can't recall a name...I don't have any more information on this. [Tim Haarmann] As to the above question, there is a person out here that every now and again gives workshops. In fact, you mention him in your FAQs--Marty Hardison. Coincidentally, he is my nearest neighbor up in the Jemez Mountains (1 hour outside of Albuquerque). We have a Jemez Mountains Beekeepers Association headed by Marty. Most of the 1/2 dozen beekeepers use TBHs. It was Marty back in 1990 that showed me how to make a TBH because he knew I was headed to the Peace Corps in Paraguay and would be using TBHs to keep bees. 3. What information on tbh beekeeping can I find on the internet? Here are a couple of good URL's to get you started: http://pinc.com/~bwarner/ktbh.htm This is good information on Kenya tbh's provided by Conrad Berube. http://www.web.net/~dcfrn/eng/scripts/11/11-11.htm This is the transcript of a radio program generated by the Developing Countries Farm Radio Network. It is titled "An Improved Beehive You Can Make at Little Cost." The program is an excellent interview with Dr. Gordon Townsend who describes making tbh's from drums or other containers. Here are a few references that may help you if you can get your hands on them. They're books and magazines, not ASCI text files. ;) Crane, Eva 1990. "Bees and Beekeeping: Science, Practice and World Resources." Comstock Publishing Associates, Ithaca, New York. ISBN 0-8014-2429-1. This magnificent work has much on tbh's, especially "Part III Beekeeping with Simpler and Cheaper Hives" p. 291-313. (an aside comment: If I could have but one book on beekeeping in my library, this would be it.) Gentry, Curtis l984. "Small Scale Beekeeping." Peace Corps Information Collection and Exchange Manual M-17. Peace Corps, 806 Connecticut Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20526. This is a wonderful publication with excellent information and especially delightful illustrations. The following journals have articles of interest: Brown, Ron. "The Top Bar Hive." The Beekeeper's Quarterly, No.44, Winter 1995/96. p.28-29. Instructions for making a quaint, Kenya tbh from sawmill slab offcuts. The end result is a bark covered hive that resembles a log, a hive that would blend well into a garden setting. Three references from Nicola Bradbear's "Beekeeping & Development: The Journal for Sustainable Beekeeping": December 1994, No.33: Hardison, Marty. Queen Rearing in Top-Bar Hives. p.3. Marty cuts strips of combs and attaches them to the bars. I've tried this, and it works well for me. Same issue, but p.8-9. Hertz, Ole. The Top-Bar Basket Hive. This article shows work by a Danish group with Gambia beekeepers. Hives are woven from palm leaves or grass then plastered inside with wet cow dung. The hives are dried then smoked with burning cow dung and herbs. March 1996, No.38. Liseki, Stephen D. Sugar Feeding Using a Top-Bar Feeder. p.4-5. Stephen describes making a feeder the width of a top bar and made to fit down inside the Kenya tbh. It is much like the frame feeders used in conventional hives. June 1996, No.39. Mbobua, Stanely K. Facts About "A Frame For The Kenya Top-Bar Hive"...a reply to previous articles. p.3-4. Stanley replies to articles by Luckhurst (B&D35) and Clauss (B&D36) about trying to make frames for tbh's. Stanley shows a frame for producing attractive triangular sections of well-filled comb honey. Here are some additional articles that you may be able to find: Berube Jr., Conrad. 1989. "The Kenya Top-Bar Hive as a Better Hive in Developing Countries." American Bee Journal, August 1989 525-527 (note: there is a link to this article on this webpage). Roling, Michael. l986. "A Novel Inexpensive Hive for Teaching." Gleanings in Bee Culture, January 1986, 22-24. Roling, Michael. 1988. "Pail Hive II." Gleanings in Bee Culture, August l988, 466-467. Krell, Rainer. 1990. "Kenya Top Bar Hive or Top Bar Hive for Developing Countries?" American Bee Journal, February 1990, 133-134. Mangum, Wyatt A. 1987. "Building a Regular or Observation Kenya Top Bar Hive.", Gleanings in Bee Culture, November 1987, 646-648. 4. What is honey pop? Honey pop is a "naturally carbonated" drink made by using honey, water, some beverage base, and a yeast. The result is a refreshing, bubbly drink that has a trace of alcohol...or more than a trace depending on the amount of honey you use, and how long you allow the yeast to operate. If you use too much honey and too much yeast, you will not have honey pop, but rather you will have honey "BOOM" for the bottles will explode. A recipe for honey pop was posted by John Iannuzzi on BEE-L some time ago. You will also find recipes and instructions included in the beverage bases that can be purchased at businesses that sell home brewing supplies. Root beer beverage base is often found in grocery stores. I have ordered beverage bases, yeasts, and other supplies from: E.C. Kraus P.O. Box 7850 Independence, Missouri 64054 Write for a free catalogue, and Ester will be happy to send you one. -end-