Subject: Questions from a beginner

From: [email-masked] (Jordan Schwartz)
Date: 16 Apr 1994 03:58:24 GMT

Well, I put my two packages in their hives today, so I am now officially 
an apiarist.  Many questions already, though, that hopefully some kind 
and knowledgeable soul will take a moment or two to answer:

1) My bees have found a knothole at the top and are going in and out of 
it, basically ignoring the more traditional (although slightly blocked by 
one of those wooden hole-maker-smaller-things) entrance at the bottom.  
Question is: is this a problem?  Will they find the regular hole?  Should 
I plug the knothole?

2) When I shook in my package, I was unable to get out a good 1/3 of 
them.  All the books I read just said "some" would remain.  Question is: 
does "some" = 1/3?  Is this a problem?

3) Are there any organic approaches to disease control (Nosema, 
Foulbrood, mites, etc.)?  I hate the idea of taking something as 
beautiful and natural as honey and fouling it with chemicals.  Is there 
something I can plant in my garden?  Some herb to cook in with the sugar 
syrup?  Anyone doing research on this?

4) How many quart jars should I have at a time for a top feeder?  There 
are slots for four, but is this necessary/recommended?  How often should 
I refill them?  As often as they're empty?

The books I have seem to skip over these questions, so I'm hoping the 
vast world of the net will be able to help.  Thanks in advance...

Jordan

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From: [email-masked] (Przemek Skoskiewicz)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 01:47:12 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Jordan Schwartz) writes:
|> 
|> 1) My bees have found a knothole at the top and are going in and out of 
|> it, basically ignoring the more traditional (although slightly blocked by 
|> one of those wooden hole-maker-smaller-things) entrance at the bottom.  
|> Question is: is this a problem?  Will they find the regular hole?  Should 
|> I plug the knothole?

No, it's not a problem, but keep an eye on it.  Perhaps the regular entrance
reducer is really blocked from the inside by something.  If not, they'll get to
it eventually.

|> 2) When I shook in my package, I was unable to get out a good 1/3 of 
|> them.  All the books I read just said "some" would remain.  Question is: 
|> does "some" = 1/3?  Is this a problem?

Just leave them outside near the hive with the opening facing top: they'll find
the hive and their queen.

|> 3) Are there any organic approaches to disease control (Nosema, 
|> Foulbrood, mites, etc.)?  I hate the idea of taking something as 
|> beautiful and natural as honey and fouling it with chemicals.  Is there 
|> something I can plant in my garden?  Some herb to cook in with the sugar 
|> syrup?  Anyone doing research on this?

Not that I know of.  None of the things that people have mentioned before
(Apistan, mentol, shortening patties and few other concoctions) is put into the
honey.  Directions tell you when to remove them from the hive before the honey
flow starts so as to eliminate the chance of the bees contaminating the honey
with the medicine.

|> 4) How many quart jars should I have at a time for a top feeder?  There 
|> are slots for four, but is this necessary/recommended?  How often should 
|> I refill them?  As often as they're empty?

As long as they take it, give it to them.  A freshly installed hive will undergo
a drop in population for about three weeks until the new bees start to emerge
from the eggs layed by the queen after the packaged bees were installed.  The
less time the bees have to spend getting their food and the more time they can
devote getting their hive organized the better for the colony.  But, when they
stop taking it, no problem.  They know what's best for them.

|> The books I have seem to skip over these questions, so I'm hoping the 
|> vast world of the net will be able to help.  Thanks in advance...
|> 
|> Jordan

Welcome to the art of beekeeping.  I think that every beekeeper thinks that he or
she knows better than any other beekeeper what's best for the bees.  My own motto
is to follow common sense and let the bees do their thing.  I would also
recommend books by Dick Bonney ("Hive Management", 1990, Garden Way Publishing). 
I've attended a couple of his seminars and his common sense approach to some of
the most boneheaded questions that he gest from the audiences was inspiring.

-- 
Viewlogic Systems, Inc.                         Przemek Skoskiewicz
293 Boston Post Road West
Marlborough, MA 01752-4615, USA
email: [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Wendy Seltzer)
Date: 18 Apr 1994 20:17:29 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
>In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Jordan Schwartz) writes:
[...]
>the hive and their queen.

When I set up my hives (two), I had read an interesting way of getting 
the last bees to go in.  If you slant a board from the ground to the 
entrance, dump a few of the remaining bees onto the board, and put the 
package at the base of the board, the bees will soon start to climb up 
the board into the hive.  It's not necessarily more efficient than the 
other methods, but it is certainly fun to watch!  (You also know they can 
find the entrance.)

Wendy
[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked] (Adam Finkelstein)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 11:28:42 GMT

>|> syrup?  Anyone doing research on this?
 USDA is doing final research on a control for both mites. This method
employs THYMOL and other plant extracts. THYMOL is a chemical, and not
"organic" in connotation, but USDA seems to be addressing your concern.

 USDA is also working on a control for AFB utilizing the fungus from
Chalkbrood. Will post info.

>|> vast world of the net will be able to help.  Thanks in advance...

 _The Beekeeper's Handbook_, Sammataro, Diana, and Avitable, Alphonse,
1986, Macmillian, N.Y. ISBN:0-02-081410-0
-- 
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