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Article: 157 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mac@cis.ksu.edu (Myron A. Calhoun)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Pasteurized honey...
Date: 26 Apr 94 17:58:04 GMT
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przemek@tokamak.viewlogic.com (Przemek Skoskiewicz) writes:
>In article <2pdrupINNmae@uwm.edu>, callan@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Joel E Callan) writes:
>|> My gradfather was a beekeeper who occasionally sold his honey to
>|> "processing" plant (local). The plant would combine honey of similar quality
>|> (based on color, source of pollen and flavor). The marketed honey was not....

>Uhm, one moment please.  Honey is made from flower nectar, not pollen....
>.....  Honey is concentrated nectar, pure and simple...

Plus a significant amount of bee parts (legs, wings, etc.) plus
dirt and air bubbles and specks (hopefully small) of feces and
pollen and .....

--Myron.
-- 
# Five boxes preserve our freedoms:  soap, ballot, jury, witness, and cartridge.
# Myron A. Calhoun, PhD EE; Assoc. Professor  (913) 539-4448 home
# INTERNET: mac@cis.ksu.edu                         532-6350 work, 532-7353 fax
#     UUCP: ...rutgers!depot!mac      Packet radio: W0PBV@N0ARY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA


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From: przemek@rrdjazz.nist.gov (Przemek Klosowski)
Subject: Why does honey crystallize?
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Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 15:14:00 GMT
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Hi,

I noticed that the honey that I get in the US (whether commercial or
from friendly beekeepers) never crystallizes, but instead stays clear
and liquid). On the other hand honey that my family sends from Poland
occasionally, as well as the imported commercial honey from Germany
often phase-separates, with some clear liquid on the top and the
grainy crystallized volume (comprising usually 60-80%) below.

A local beekeeper said that this is because of added sugar, but I was told
that at least my Polish honey was not treated with sugar. Taste-wise, I
like the crystallized version, but this may be simply acquired.

Does anyone have a suggestion as to the cause of this difference?

--
			przemek klosowski (przemek@rrdstrad.nist.gov)
			Reactor Division (bldg. 235), E111
			National Institute of Standards and Technology
			Gaithersburg, MD 20899,      USA

			(301) 975 6249


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From: tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis)
Subject: Re: Why does honey crystallize?
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Przemek Klosowski (przemek@rrdjazz.nist.gov) notices 
> that the honey that I get in the US (whether commercial or
> from friendly beekeepers) never crystallizes, but instead stays clear
> and liquid).

Honey is a supersaturated solution of sugars.
To quote my "Bible" (Dadant, The Hive and the Honey Bee, 1975) :
"  A supersaturated solution is one that contains more dissolved material
   than can normally remain in solution.  Such solutions are more or less
   unstable and in time will return to the stable saturated condition with
   the excesive material comming out of solution.   .. Crystallizing
   tendancy is related to honey composition and storage conditions;
   some honeys never crystallize while others will do so within a few
   days of extraction, or even in the comb.
   ... Several attempts have been made to express the liability of a honey
   to granulate .. White (1961) has shown that the dextrose-to-water ratio
   .. is more closely related toa the granulation tendancy .. than other
   indices ..    D/W ratios of 1.70 or lower appear to be associated with
   nongranulated honey, and values of 2.10 and higher predict rapid
   completion of granulation.
   ..
   White, J.W. Jr.  (1961) Gl. Bee Cult. 89:230-233
"

> On the other hand honey that my family sends from Poland
> occasionally, as well as the imported commercial honey from Germany
> often phase-separates ..

--
tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, North York, Canada.



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From: ddtodd@ucdavis.edu (Daniel D. Todd)
Subject: Re: Why does honey crystallize?
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przemek@rrdjazz.nist.gov (Przemek Klosowski) writes:

>I noticed that the honey that I get in the US (whether commercial or
>from friendly beekeepers) never crystallizes, but instead stays clear
>and liquid). On the other hand honey that my family sends from Poland
>occasionally, as well as the imported commercial honey from Germany
>often phase-separates, with some clear liquid on the top and the
>grainy crystallized volume (comprising usually 60-80%) below.
I'm pretty sure this is not due to added sugar. I just picked up ~50lbs of 
honey from the local bee-keepers here and it was mostly crystallized.  I 
thought it was just a matter of the water evaporating out until it became 
thick enough to start srystallizing.  I think there may be the need for nuclei 
and micro filtering may reduce the size of available nuclei. If this is 
correct a lot more water would have to evap. before crystallization.

cheers,
Dan
=========================================================================
Dan Todd       ddtodd@ucdavis.edu           kc6uud@ke6lw.#nocal.ca.us.na  
Charter Member: Dummies for UNIX 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
When radios are outlawed, only outlaws will have radios 
- David R. Tucker on rec.radio.amateur.policy
==========================================================================


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Article: 161 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moore901@crow.csrv.uidaho.edu (Moore Chad)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Practicing beekeepers
Date: 27 Apr 1994 02:22:17 GMT
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Are there any practicing beekeepers out there?   From reading the 
articles, there are mostly hobbiests.  I would like to exchange some tips 
and methods that have helped me throught the years.  I and my brother 
raise around 3,000 colonies, if there are any beekeepers out there who 
keep bees to make a living, lets talk.

Salmon River Beekeeper 
Grangville Idaho



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From: bokhorst@gatwick.sgp.slb.com (Karel Bokhorst)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Why does honey crystallize?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 11:02:11 GMT
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>
>A local beekeeper said that this is because of added sugar, but I was told
>that at least my Polish honey was not treated with sugar. Taste-wise, I
>like the crystallized version, but this may be simply acquired.
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion as to the cause of this difference?
>
>--
>		
 Hi ,

I am not a bee-keeper (my father is) but i thought that it had to do
with the type of honey.
Depending on what the main plant or tree was where the honey is coming from
it will either completely cristalize or stay clear.

I know for sure that my father was very keen on getting the honey out before it cristalizes already in the hive when his bees flew to heather plants (Erica..)

Karel Bokhorst






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From: veldhui@cc.umanitoba.ca (Phil Veldhuis)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Practicing beekeepers
Date: 27 Apr 1994 19:40:03 GMT
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In article <2pki8p$anm@owl.csrv.uidaho.edu> moore901@crow.csrv.uidaho.edu (Moore Chad) writes:
>Are there any practicing beekeepers out there?   From reading the 
>articles, there are mostly hobbiests.  I would like to exchange some tips 
>and methods that have helped me throught the years.  I and my brother 
>raise around 3,000 colonies, if there are any beekeepers out there who 
>keep bees to make a living, lets talk.

I think the nature of the internet is still such that most people with
access will have full-time jobs in the business or education fields.

I am putting myself through university by beekeeping.  I have only 60
colonies, although my family and other relations are comercial beekeepers.
(Several operations in the 1000 colony range)
My experience with hobiest/commercial interchange is that it is
frustrating and often unproductive.  For instance, commercial beekeepers
often worry more about equipment and anomalous hive management practices
than the basic management of normal hives.  Whereas hobbiest beekeepers
are more interested in getting feedback about fairly basic (though
crucial) tasks and management.

The fact that one keeps many colonies doesn't make one more of an expert,
although one may be an expert.   I always advise hobbiests
with some trepidation.  The solutions to problems I use are not
necessarily a good solution to the same problem for the single hive
beekeeper who might be just as knowledgeable, but who may not have a truck
with a hydralyc tailgate, a hired man etc...


I also find that many practices in beekeeping are highly regionalized and
also idiosyncratic.  Unfortunately the best way to learn how to keep bees
is to grow up with 1000 hives in your back yard, and since not all of us
are this fortunate (ha-ha), we shouldn't wonder that others have many
guestions.

I guess my point is that number of colonies doesn't equal expertise.

(my personal opinion is that expertise is a function of intelligence, but
we would think someone who says "I'm smart, therefore I'm right begs the
question)


BTW, an excellent, pratical an uptodate beekeeping book is the one I
refered to earlier.  IE, The Honey Bee: A guide for beekeepers" by Vickery
(particle press, 1991).  It has some good discussion of some issues in
keeping bees in northern climes (ontario and north USA). The Norther
prairies is a more extremme case (manitoba sask alberta) which I have yet
to see properly discussed in book length form.

Talk to you later, Phil.

-- 
------------oooooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo-------------
Phil Veldhuis           |  "if something is not worth doing, 
Winnipeg. MB, Canada    |  it is not worth doing right"
veldhui@cc.umanitoba.ca |                     Dave Barry (1985)


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From: spbcnsp@ucl.ac.uk (Mr Neville Steven Percy)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee-keeping in Terry Pratchett books
Date: 26 Apr 1994 18:40:45 -0500
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>In article <ConqxH.H17@acsu.buffalo.edu>, rmr@acsu.buffalo.edu (Richard M. Romanowski) writes:
>> 	An open question:
>> 1)	Are there any Terry Pratchett fans on this group?
>> 2)	If so, did you start bee-keeping after reading T.P.'s
>> glowing, heroic descriptions of bee-keepers?

1>  Yes, most emphatically.
2>  Duh?

As a fan of both, if not an actual bee-participator, I feel I must read 
whichever Pratchett book has a beekeeper in it immediately!

						Nev  (:>


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From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Propolis?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 20:51:29 GMT
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In article <2pkra3$594@rainbow.sosi.com>,
Tom Harrington <tph@rainbow.sosi.com> wrote:
>Your post has triggered the Flame-Bot...
(immaturities deleted)

What a worthless post.  When I brought up a discussion a long time ago on
BEE-L about a USENET group, one of the main objections by many was that there
would be a lot of trash postings.  I hope that it is not valid concern.  Let's
try to stick to bee-related topics please.

Getting back to propolis, does anyone know how bees bring back the resins
that they use for propolis?  I would imagine that resins are very sticky...
so which part of their bodies are the bees using to carry resins back to
the hive, or are they using their proboscis?

Also, I seem to remember hearing that propolis was used in the manufacture
of violins.  Anyone know how?

Regards,
Paul
-- 
Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu)
Northwestern University Medical School, MSTP-1
Ward Bldg. Box 213
Chicago, IL 60611


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From: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM (David MacFawn - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Propolis?
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In article 5j8@news.acns.nwu.edu, pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) writes:
>In article <2pkra3$594@rainbow.sosi.com>,
>Tom Harrington <tph@rainbow.sosi.com> wrote:
>
>Getting back to propolis, does anyone know how bees bring back the resins
>that they use for propolis?  I would imagine that resins are very sticky...
>so which part of their bodies are the bees using to carry resins back to
>the hive, or are they using their proboscis?

Seems to me I remember reading that they bring the propolis back in their pollen 
sacks on their hind legs.  Interesting because it must be a job getting the stuff out.

>
>Also, I seem to remember hearing that propolis was used in the manufacture
>of violins.  Anyone know how?

Yes, I had heard that violins, especially the old ones, do use propolis in 
the finish.

>Regards,
>Paul
>-- 
>Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu)
>Northwestern University Medical School, MSTP-1
>Ward Bldg. Box 213
>Chicago, IL 60611






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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: Why does honey crystallize?
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In article <PRZEMEK.94Apr25111400@rrdjazz.nist.gov>, Przemek Klosowski wrote:
> I noticed that the honey that I get in the US (whether commercial or
> from friendly beekeepers) never crystallizes, but instead stays clear
> and liquid). On the other hand honey that my family sends from Poland
> occasionally, as well as the imported commercial honey from Germany
> often phase-separates, with some clear liquid on the top and the
> grainy crystallized volume (comprising usually 60-80%) below.
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion as to the cause of this difference?

One factor is the type of flower the honey comes from.  Goldenrod honey
tends to crystallize more than many other common types.

-Mike


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From: tph@rainbow.sosi.com (Tom Harrington)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.religion.kibology
Subject: Re: Propolis?
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:168 alt.religion.kibology:28472

Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu) wrote:
: In article <Cot643.J6L@world.std.com>,
: James "Kibo" Parry <kibo@world.std.com> wrote:
: >[sci.agriculture.beekeeping]
: >In article <rahCoL4K2.Gq0@netcom.com>, Richard Hyde <rah@netcom.com> wrote:
: >> I have heard anecdotal evidence that propolis has been used to
: >> cure arthritus, but then so has copper and silver bracelets.  YMMV.
: >
: >I hear that the Weekly World News and New England Jornal of Medicine
: >will, tomorrow, jointly announce that a mixture of Pop Rocks and Coke
: >will cure arthritis.

: Hey, don't knock propolis benefits just yet.  Let's wait for current
: research on caffeic acid phenethyl ester before dismissing this folk
: remedy.


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      Engineer, Cybernetic Entomologist, Techno-Rat, H.P.L.D.
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Article: 169 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adwright@iastate.edu ()
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Laying Worker
Date: 28 Apr 94 13:45:39 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
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It is my understanding that if the queen has died, workers will sometimes
lay, but since these would be unmated, they would lay only drones.  If
this is the case, she must be killed.


-- 




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Article: 170 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adwright@iastate.edu
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: African honey bees:How far North?
Message-ID: <adwright.767469065@vincent2.iastate.edu>
Date: 27 Apr 94 17:51:05 GMT
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While we are on this subject:  It has been said that the African bee
is not becoming gentler by crossing with gentler strains, as was originally
hoped would happen as they came northward.

My question:  Is there any evidence that crossing HAS occured?  It may be
that the african queens select african drones and thay do not randomly mate.
I am sure someone has looked into this more deeply.  It should be easy
to demonstrate using DNA samples.

Maybe they are randomly mating but Nature selects for aggressive behaivior,
keeping at least the aggressive genes at high frequency. 

Any thoughts?
Allen



-- 


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Article: 171 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM (David MacFawn - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How long do I feed a new colony?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 13:12:04 GMT
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In article 94Apr18142924@polaris.cv.nrao.edu, kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Kirk Crady) writes:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I hope you'll take a minute or two to pass along some insights to a new
>beekeeper. 
>
>I've just installed two 3 lb. colonies of bees into hives in Virginia.
>The bees went in last Wednesday afternoon, 4/13. Since then, they seem
>to be consuming about a pint of 1:1 sugar syrup per day. 
>
>I refilled the jars for the first time yesterday (Sunday). Each hive
>has one half-gal. and one quart mason jar (3 qts.ttl.) placed as entrance 
>feeders.
>
>Do you think a third re-filling is necessary?  The daily temps around here
>are mid 70's and there seems to be a lot of dogwood, redbud and apple
>trees blooming now. 
>
>What kind of rule of thumb do you folks use?


The bees will continue to take the syrup until they have something better, 
namely nectar.  I am in Raleigh, N.C and the honey flow started around here about 
1-2 weeks ago; its earily this year.  I would go ahead and give them some more syrup until the honey 
flow starts in your area which should be soon.  One way to look at this is by 
giving them some more syrup, the activity of the hive will not be affected and 
they will continue to raise young bees.  It sounds as if your are using the 
boardman entrance feeders.  I typically do not use this type of feeder since 
it can cause robbing and in cold weather the bees cannot get to the syrup since 
it is on the outside causing the bees to starve.  My preference is for the pail 
feeder that you invert over the top of the inner cover hole...this works well in 
both warm and cold weather and it does not cause a robbing problem.  I have also 
used the frame feeder (the feeder that is inserted in the hive in place of a 
frame) but still like the pail feeder the best.  With the frame feeder you need 
to put some floating material in the syrup so that the bees do not drown but you 
do not need any extra equipment.  With a pail feeder you need another deep to 
place around the feeder.

Also, you do not need to worry about the syrup getting mixed in with the honey.  
The bees seem to use up the syrup and do not mix the syrup and nectar/honey from 
what I have observed.

You can get the one gallon pail feeders from a lot of bee supply houses 
( Brushy Mountain Bee Farm, Dadant, etc.) but I 
prefer the 3.1 gallon pail feeders from Mann Lake.  If I do not need to feed the 
bees a full 3.1 gallons I can put a smaller quantity, like one gallon, of syrup 
in the 3.1 gallon pail and it works fine.  With the 3.1 gallon pail, I am able to 
start feeding the bees around the first of February in order to make splits...the 
3.1 gallon qty allows me to reduce the number of trips to the bee yard to feed 
the bees.  If I am not making splits, I will typically start feeding the bees 
about mid to the end of March to make sure they are full of bees come the end 
of April when the Tulip Poplar starts blooming in this area.  I typically will 
only feed if the bees are short of honey unless I want to make splits.

Good luck and I hope your bees do well.  The honey flow started about 1-2 weeks 
earily around the Raleigh area this year...it has the makings of an excellent year.

Rgds, Dave M.

>
>Thanks,
>Kirk Crady
>
>kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu






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From: apm@hpopdlau.pwd.hp.com (Andrew Merritt)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: apprenticeships/opportunities in the UK?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 13:54:00 GMT
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In-reply-to: mrw@ukc.ac.uk's message of Sat, 23 Apr 94 11:53:09 GMT

>>>>> "mrw" == M.R.Watkins  <mrw@ukc.ac.uk> writes:

mrw> I'm very interested in getting into beekeeping (I know very little, but
mrw> am fascinated by the little I do know).  If anyone knows of anywhere I
mrw> can learn the basics, or enter into an apprenticeship in the UK (or
mrw> Western Europe), please let me know.  I'm quite practically minded,
mrw> despite being trained as a mathematician :) .

Your best bet is to find your local beekeepers club.  There is certainly a
Kent Beekeepers Association, who probably have a local branch near
Canterbury.  If you can't find them, try the police station, they may well
be able to help as the police keep lists of beekeepers prepared to deal with
swarms.  There are also courses in advanced beekeeping, but the best way to
start is with the local association.  

Drop me a line if you have difficulty contacting a local branch, as my
mother is member of the KBKA, and I can probably get a local contact name.

Andrew
--
Andrew Merritt (C=GB;AD=GOLD 400;PD=HP;OU1=Pinewood;SN=Merritt;GN=Andy)  __o
       HP CCSY Messaging, Pinewood, UK                                   \<,
Disclaimer: I don't speak for HP, and they don't speak for me.  ........O/ O


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Article: 173 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Propolis?
Message-ID: <1994Apr28.123757.4472@crosfield.co.uk>
Date: 28 Apr 94 12:37:57 GMT
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Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK
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In article <2po6jn$8mh@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> david@boogie.East.Sun.COM writes:
>In article 5j8@news.acns.nwu.edu, pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) writes:
>>Getting back to propolis, does anyone know how bees bring back the resins
>>that they use for propolis?  I would imagine that resins are very sticky...
>>so which part of their bodies are the bees using to carry resins back to
>>the hive, or are they using their proboscis?
>
>Seems to me I remember reading that they bring the propolis back in their
>pollen sacks on their hind legs.

I can confirm this.  I've seen it quite often.  Brown, shiny, more or less
spherical lumps carried on the pollen baskets.

-- 
Malcolm Roe                            Phone  :  +44 442 230000 ext 5104
Crosfield Electronics Ltd              Fax    :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK    E-mail :  roe@crosfield.co.uk 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Article: 174 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: johns@macadam.mpce.mq.edu.au (John Savage)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bees do not like kerosene fumes
Message-ID: <2pacpq$laa@sunb.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Date: 23 Apr 94 05:47:38 GMT
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I remember when my father began beekeeping -- he started with just three
hives, and cared for them meticulously.  (Actually, he bought them off my
brother and me when our schoolboy enthusiasm for bee husbandry waned.)

Anyway, for some reason which I don't recall exactly, he used some
kerosene on or near the hives.  Perhaps he was cleaning all those dirty 
footprints off the landing ledge!, or maybe he sprayed a bit of kero on
the ground in front to keep it free of grass, I just don't recall.  The 
outcome was that the little bees packed their suitcases and prepared to 
flee. It was next morning when he noticed them massing ready for departure.
He returned them to the hive and hurriedly installed a queen excluder across
the entrance.

Hope this saves others from losing bees through such means; they just do 
not like the smell of kerosene.

P.S. kerosene is a petroleum product, called paraffin in some countries,
     it is less volatile than petrol, more volatile than diesel.
                                                      __       __
         .--_-_-_--.  _____________________________  {  \_____/  }  __________
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       v   OLYMPICS        Sydney    Australia        (         )   the next.
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===========internet: johns@macadam.mpce.mq.edu.au=====  \_) (_/  =============
                                  


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From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: African honey bees:How far North?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 22:22:00 GMT
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In article <adwright.767469065@vincent2.iastate.edu>,
 <adwright@iastate.edu> wrote:
>My question:  Is there any evidence that crossing HAS occured?  It may be
>that the african queens select african drones and thay do not randomly mate.
>I am sure someone has looked into this more deeply.  It should be easy
>to demonstrate using DNA samples.
>
>Maybe they are randomly mating but Nature selects for aggressive behaivior,
>keeping at least the aggressive genes at high frequency. 

There have been DNA analyses done previously.  If memory serves, Glenn Hall
(and others) did a restriction fragment length polymorphism (RFLP) analysis 
on inheritance of mitochondrial DNA.  It was found that queens found in 
swarms had mitochondrial genomes of mostly African descent.  RFLP analysis 
of genomic DNA also implies a predominantly African make-up.  However, RFLP 
gives only correlative evidence which should not be used as the gold standard 
for discriminating between mellifera races.  In conclusion, even though
crossing has occurred, the spread of African bees does not appear to be 
greatly affected by mating with feral European colonies or European colonies 
in apiaries, hence less "dilution" of the aggressive behavior. There are many 
hypotheses as to why this is the case, including high African drone 
populations, absconding rate, etc.  Even if the dilution hypothesis were 
correct, California would still be in trouble.  Eric Mussen noted last year 
that the feral European colonies have all but died off due to Varroa, so 
there won't be much diluting going on.

Rob Page's lab at Davis does DNA stuff.  Mike Crosland, who used to be
in Page Lab, is now in Australia, I believe. They might be good people to 
ask for more detailed info.

Regards,
Paul
-- 
Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu)
Northwestern University Medical School, MSTP-1
Ward Bldg. Box 213
Chicago, IL 60611


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From: rmholt@u.washington.edu (Rose Marie Holt)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.religion.kibology
Subject: Re: Propolis?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 04:30:33 GMT
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:176 alt.religion.kibology:28620

In article <Cot643.J6L@world.std.com>,
James "Kibo" Parry <kibo@world.std.com> wrote:
>
>I hear that the Weekly World News and New England Jornal of Medicine
>will, tomorrow, jointly announce that a mixture of Pop Rocks and Coke
>will cure arthritis.
>

Yes, and David Letterman will be the first volunteer to immerse himself
in a large bowl of the Cure.  And so soon after the rectal feeding
disaster - I hope this goes better.

_____________________________________________________________________________
Rose Marie Holt, the most unreasonable person you ever met
rmholt@u.washington.edu            "...trust me, I'm a doctor" 
Will Read Xrays For Food                           --J. Kevorkian
________________________________________________________________________________    -


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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Subject: Re: African honey bees:How far North?
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In article <adwright.767469065@vincent2.iastate.edu>
adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
 
>
>                            ...It has been said that the African bee
>is not becoming gentler by crossing with gentler strains, as was originally
>hoped would happen as they came northward.
>
>My question:  Is there any evidence that crossing HAS occured?  It may be
>that the african queens select african drones and thay do not randomly mate.
>I am sure someone has looked into this more deeply.  It should be easy
>to demonstrate using DNA samples.
>
 
There was a speaker at the Southern Adirondack Beekeepers Assoc who
had been to a Central American Country (Costa Rica?) to work with
AHB to see what's in store for the States when AHBs arrive.  The
locals have found a number of things about the AHB to support the
statement that AHBs are NOT becoming gentler as they breed with feral
bees.  The hypothesis for this is the AHB's aggression (not aggression
as in nasty bees, rather aggression as in highly motivated).  It was
stated that the AHB is highly motivated to do those things that bees do,
such as collect nectar and pollen, clean hives, and procreate.  The
AHB workers are highly motivated in foraging behavior, out competing
their European cousins in the quest for limited floral resources.  And
when it comes to mating with virgin queens, the AHB drones are more
motivated (hornier?) than their Eurpoean cousins and are therefore
more likely to pass on AHB genes, whether the queen is European or
African.  Therefore, in the constant struggle for the survival of
the fittest, the AHB is more aggressive (read motivated) in the
struggle, and hence the local strains are becoming more aggressive
as the AHB genes are more successfully passed on.
 
Sad to say that I did not take good notes at this meeting and
cannot say who the speaker was, although I have no reason to doubt
his credentials.  Unfortunately, given that I can't identify the
source, what I have written above about natural selection must be
classified as hearsay.  Any experts able to back this up?


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From: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM (David MacFawn - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: African honey bees:How far North?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 19:23:49 GMT
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Reply-To: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM
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It's my understanding that african drones fly eariler and later than the 
European drones which results in the area becoming africanized.


In article 767469065@vincent2.iastate.edu, adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
While we are on this subject:  It has been said that the African bee
is not becoming gentler by crossing with gentler strains, as was originally
hoped would happen as they came northward.

My question:  Is there any evidence that crossing HAS occured?  It may be
that the african queens select african drones and thay do not randomly mate.
I am sure someone has looked into this more deeply.  It should be easy
to demonstrate using DNA samples.

Maybe they are randomly mating but Nature selects for aggressive behaivior,
keeping at least the aggressive genes at high frequency. 

Any thoughts?
Allen



-- 







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Article: 179 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: bobpursley@aol.com (BobPursley)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Laying Worker
Date: 27 Apr 1994 21:25:02 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <2pmovj$jut@search01.news.aol.com>, matchstic@aol.com (Matchstic)
writes:

<I seem to have a hive with a laying worker (that or one PITIFUL queen!)
< what my question is 
<to requeen this colony I'm trying to combine a queenright colony, using the
<newspaper trick
<ie place the queen right colony over the queenless colony withj a coupla
<sheets
<of newspaper between them. 
 <My concern is that the queen wont be accepted, because the laying worker <is
there?

Make certain the queenright colony is strong  (4-5 frames of bees), and they
will be OK.  The queenrite colony cannot be weaker than the laying worker
colony.  If the laying worker colony is strong, shake ALL of the bees off the
frames of the laying worker colony frames a distance from  the hive ( the
laying workers usually dont return to the hive) then put the queenrite colony
on top.  Be certain to punch a few starter holes in the paper, so air can
circulate above and not smother the upper hive.  Good Luck

BobPursley@AOL


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Article: 180 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: bees
Message-ID: <Cotwo3.60M@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
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References: <2pggp3$9h4@ratatosk.uninett.no>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 18:57:39 GMT
Lines: 11

In article <2pggp3$9h4@ratatosk.uninett.no>,  <> wrote:
>Where do I get my first bee?

 From the bee store silly!
Adam
-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


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Article: 181 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: matchstic@aol.com (Matchstic)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Practicing beekeepers
Date: 27 Apr 1994 23:03:02 -0400
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In article <2pmf2j$mg8@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>, veldhui@cc.umanitoba.ca (Phil
Veldhuis) writes:

<My experience with hobiest/commercial interchange is that it is
frustrating and often unproductive.  For instance, commercial beekeepers
often worry more about equipment and anomalous hive management practices
than the basic management of normal hives.  Whereas hobbiest beekeepers
are more interested in getting feedback about fairly basic (though
crucial) tasks and management.>

  What about the new sideliners?
I've been trying to go from the hobbiest level to the sideliner level in one
Giant Step. This seems to be the perfect forum to exchnage ideas and tips at
all levels ,therby allowing the individual the opportunity to filter out what
they will.

 The situation Im running into is a huge load of book knowledge and limited
hands on experience (but Im a fast learn, thankfully)
 So please, you commercial and semi commercial producers let us hear your tips
and input.
seeya
 Mike Vincent
 matchstic@aol.com



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Article: 182 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Propolis?
Date: 27 Apr 1994 21:54:49 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory - Pasadena CA
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Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu) wrote:

[deletions . . .]
: Getting back to propolis, does anyone know how bees bring back the resins
: that they use for propolis?  I would imagine that resins are very sticky...
: so which part of their bodies are the bees using to carry resins back to
: the hive, or are they using their proboscis?
[more deletions]

paul - take a look at the latest bee journal - they have a picture of a
bee doing just what you are asking about.

regards, richard

rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov
all disclaimers apply


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!milano!winmac.mcc.com!user Wed May  4 21:28:23 EDT 1994
Article: 183 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From:  (Chris Windsor)
Subject: request tips on selling honey
Message-ID: <CozEu0.3CL@mcc.com>
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 18:17:59 GMT
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I am brand new to beekeeping; just setup my first two hives (or is it
colonies?). Although I am not expecting you folks to give away your real
sales and marketing strategies, I would most appreciate any pointers on
the subject.

Regards,  Chris Windsor in Cedar Park, TX


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!mac2wild2.tamu.edu!user Wed May  4 21:28:29 EDT 1994
Article: 184 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pjh3142@rigel.tamu.edu (Pascal Hua)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Pasteurized honey...
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 28 Apr 1994 15:59:29 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University
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In article <CovIBG.2yv@viewlogic.com>, przemek@tokamak.viewlogic.com
(Przemek Skoskiewicz) wrote:
> Uhm, one moment please.  Honey is made from flower nectar, not pollen.  These are
> two different products of a flower used for different purposes.  Bees eat the
> pollen (that's why they won't raise any brood in the spring until there's enough
> pollen to feed it) and some of it, of course, makes into the honey.  Honey is
> concentrated nectar, pure and simple.  The water content is around 16-17%, if
> memory serves me right.

  Hello, but they still make honey for food reserve, right ?  So it means
that they eat it during the winter ?  Does it just keep better than pollen
? Is pollen a "better" food ?
  When you say two diff. purposes, do you mean for the flower or for the
bee ?  I know about the flower.  What are the two purposes for the bee ?

Thank you,
Pascal.
-- 
Pascal Hua
Texas A&M University
College Station,TX
pjh3142@rigel.tamu.edu


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Article: 185 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: johns@macadam.mpce.mq.edu.au (John Savage)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,k12.chat.teacher,soc.culture.australia,soc.culture.new-zealand
Subject: BUMBLE BEES - please post a description of your local variety
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Date: 30 Apr 1994 07:23:23 GMT
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:185 k12.chat.teacher:11221 soc.culture.new-zealand:15722

I have been interested in the discussion on Bumble Bees, more so to find out
that there are different types. I didn't know ANY lived in colonies.

In Australia, there are no bumble bees of any description.  Our native bees
are tiny, and usually mistaken for little flies.  

Once, while reclining in a sundrenched garden in New Zealand, my quiet 
reverie was interrupted by a penetrating drone that approached nearer and 
nearer.  Anxiously seeking the source of the sound, I was amazed to behold a 
huge canary-yellow bee industriously visiting flower heads in determined, 
methodical succession.  In size, it resembled a pickled olive with tiny wings 
- I was astonished that such an ungainly-proportioned craft could execute 
these deft aerobatic manoeuvers to land and feed on wavering petal platforms.

I believe it to be of solitary habit, and with no sting; though I chose not
to tempt fate all the same.

The nearest we have to solitary bees in Australia is something of identical
size to honey bees.  At the beach one day, I heard the sound of an 
approaching bee and observed as one landed on a nearby sandstone rock and 
disappeared into a small hole just above ground level.  Moments later it
emerged to fly off, later returning and repeating this a number of times.
This bee was of the same appearance as a honey bee, except the usual yellow
and black bands were coloured a dazzling electric blue and black. Though an
observant amateur naturalist, I have only ever seen just that one.

I'm cross-posting this to a newsgroup where I know there are New Zealand
readers, in the hope that they may care to elaborate on the NZ bumble bee.  
                                                      __       __
         .--_-_-_--.  _____________________________  {  \_____/  }  __________
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Article: 186 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Varroa questions from Ormond
Message-ID: <Cov3nK.74y@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Keywords: varroa, mite 
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 1994 10:26:08 GMT
Lines: 60


Date:         Mon, 25 Apr 1994 16:22:00 -0700
From: "Kerry Clark 784-2225 fax (604) 784 2299" KCLARK@GALAXY.GOV.BC.CA

   For discussion
   1 when do varroa mites enter cells (they don't enter bees)
   The varroa handbook p 9 says

   Young varroa mites remain on adult bees for 5  to 13 days before
   entering brood cells.

   or

   44 % of young mites enter brood cells within 6 days
   69 %                                         12 days
   90 %...                                      24 days

   The mites enter worker cells between the 7 th and 8 th day
                or drone cells between the 8 th and 9 th day.

   2  the best single treatment for varroa

   (consider that some of the varroa problem is the complexity of variable
   conditions of climate, bee colonies, bee keeping areas, etc, which makes
   a simple answer to this simple question, inadequate)

   something that kills all the varroa on the adult bees in a beekeeping
   area, when there is no bee brood where the mites can be protected. The
   something might be the bees' behavior, a chemical, or a physical
   treatment.
   Of the options available, Apistan strips in fall when brood rearing is
   minimal, may fit what you'd like as a good treatment.

   3. what happens to the mites as the bee colony dies

   The details are speculation, but as a bee colony approaches a minimal
   size, bees from it may abandon and go to other colonies, carrying mites.
   Bees from other colonies may rob the honey stored in the
   now-poorly-protected hive, and carry mites back to their hives. The last
   remaining bees (newly emerging workers, queen) would have lots of varroa
   released as workers emerge.

   I've seen some strange results this spring, as hives aquire thousands of
   varroa from somewhere (much beyond the reproductive capacity of those
   mites which were there last fall).


   Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist
   B.C. Ministry of Agriculture
   1201 103 Ave
   Dawson Creek B.C.
        V1G 4J2  CANADA          Tel (604) 784-2225     fax (604) 784-2299
   INTERNET KCLARK@GALAXY.GOV.BC.CA

-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


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Article: 187 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Why does honey crystallize?
Message-ID: <Cov6Cz.7MC@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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Date: Tue, 26 Apr 1994 11:24:34 GMT
Lines: 20

 If you had gotten honey from western Virginia it would have crystallized!
Granulation seems to be correlated to floral source and how the honey is
processed. Heating honey lowers its granuulation rate, so packers who process
large amounts of honey tend to have clear honey. Think about it, imagine
dealing with tons of honey an hour? If it is hot, it will move more quickly
and you can get more processed.
So this honey doesn't granulate.
 Honey from beekeepers who extract theirs and package it without heating
it granulates more readily. Couple this with floral sources that have high
granulation from the sugar combination in their nectar, and you get
crystallized honey.
 Thistle and Knapweed honey, the Shenandoah Valley's varietal honey
crystallizes readily. Known as "sugaring."
Adam
-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Mites
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 Apistan. 
-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Wed May  4 21:28:45 EDT 1994
Article: 189 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: More Varroa info from bee-l
Message-ID: <Coxv8C.IoL@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Keywords: Varroa, mite 
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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Date:         Wed, 27 Apr 1994 17:46:13 EDT
From: "Gordon L. Scott (U.K.)" <100332.3310@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Subject:      Varroa answer and some.

Hi all,

>I requested several weeks ago that a few of you more verbose posters
>reply <if you could be so kind> to Ormond Aebi's question,...

>What in your opinion is the best single treatment for Varroa?

I answered Rob direct on this but feel I would like to broadcast my
views on the 'best' treatment.

I believe that the 'best' is either bio-mechanical or whatever your
neighbours are using (presuming it's reasonable) because the mites will
more easily develop resistance to chemicals if they get a little sniff of
each chemical from each beekeeper. Chemicals are only buying us time and
we must protect and extend that time as much as we can. 'Blanket'
treatment over a large area can knock back a pest very effectively all
over that area for some time.

-----
Varroa in Drone Brood

I believe that varroa uses _only_ drone brood in Apis Cerana and I think
that this is due to the life cycle of the mite. The 'capped' time for
Cerana is rather shorter than in Mellifera and I think that in worker
brood it is _too_ short for successful Varroa maturation. In Mellifera,
the _even_longer_ drone brood time is just _great_ for successful Varroa
maturation.

-----
Varroa on other hosts.

I have been told here during recent lectures at the British Beekeepers'
Association spring convention that Varroa are 'totally unable to survive
on any hosts [than honeybees]' I'm not in retrospect sure whether this is
Mellifera and Cerana only or includes Dorsata, Florea and the 'new' one,
the name of which escapes me. I haven't seen the Bee World article, I may
try to locate a copy.

-----
Colony desertion

We also heard at the same lectures of cases of colony desertion when
heavily infested by Varroa. It seems that several colonies that were under
investigation to see what the mechanism is of colony collapse (in the UK
at least), deserted the hive typically leaving just the queen and a few
workers. This strange behaviour is suggested also to explain sudden
_vast_ increases in Varroa concentrations in otherwise normally
progressing colonies. Kerry Clark comments on this on Bee-l and various
friends here have also commented (up from tens per day on Bayvarol to
thousands per day in tests just a few weeks apart).

The researcher on this is Dr. Stephen Martin at Cardiff University here
in the UK. I don't yet know if he has an Email address -- I must find
out! I suspect that he would be very interested in any correlating
evidence.


He also reports 'relatively large' _natural_ mite motality in study
colonies, up to 900 per day rather than the 'few' per day at colony
collapse reported elsewhere. The reason is as yet unclear but is guessed
to be due to a lower level of secondary infections. Again I guess he
would be interested in correlating evidence.

-----
Beekeeping on CompuServe.

Someone asked a little while ago about Beekeeping on Compuserve. There
does not appear to be anything like Bee-l there, but some beekeepers do
chat in the Gardening Forum.

-----
Spring has arrived (again) here. After a false start in mid March
followed by three or four weeks of cold (by our standards) wet and windy
weather with a little snow (I had to feed four out of six colonies -- all
nucs from last year), the sun has come back. Temperatures are up to about
15C, the wind and rain are mostly gone and the bees are out working at
last.

Bye for now, Gordon.

-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


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From: andy.nachbaur@beenet.com (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: hello
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 19:03:00 GMT
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    \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \XXX/:::\___/:::\___/:::\___/:::\XXX/
    /XXX\  Wild Bee's joining the Beekeeper's::::::::::::::::::::::/   \
    \XXX/  in sci.agriculture.beekeeping!     ::::::::::::::::::::::\___/
    /   \           __         __                   `:::::::::::::::/   \
    \___/          /  \ \^+^/ /  \      Andy Nachbaur, sysop `::::::\___/
    /   \          \   \(O O)/   /      Wild Bee's BBS          `:::/   \
    \___/           \   \\_//   //-->>  BEENET.COM                `:\___/
    /   \      ------oOO--Y--OOo----------------------------       :/   \
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    /   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/XXX\___/   \___/   \
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        \___/   \XXX/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/


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Article: 191 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM (David MacFawn - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Laying Worker
Date: 29 Apr 1994 19:05:21 GMT
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In article 767540739@vincent2.iastate.edu, adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
>It is my understanding that if the queen has died, workers will sometimes
>lay, but since these would be unmated, they would lay only drones.  If
>this is the case, she must be killed.

The problem that you get into is identifying a laying worker.  Hence, the recommendation by someone to dump all the bees out of the hive, and the non-laying workers will find their way into a hive with a laying queen.





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From: david@boogie.East.Sun.COM (David MacFawn - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Pasteurized honey...
Date: 29 Apr 1994 19:16:28 GMT
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In article 280494110405@mac2wild2.tamu.edu, pjh3142@rigel.tamu.edu (Pascal Hua) writes:
>In article <CovIBG.2yv@viewlogic.com>, przemek@tokamak.viewlogic.com
>(Przemek Skoskiewicz) wrote:
>> Uhm, one moment please.  Honey is made from flower nectar, not pollen.  These are
>> two different products of a flower used for different purposes.  Bees eat the
>> pollen (that's why they won't raise any brood in the spring until there's enough
>> pollen to feed it) and some of it, of course, makes into the honey.  Honey is
>> concentrated nectar, pure and simple.  The water content is around 16-17%, if
>> memory serves me right.

Honey is used by the bees to eat during the winter.  Around October/November the 
queen does not lay any eggs and around the end of December she begins to start 
laying a small number of eggs (at least in North Carolina).  It takes pollen and 
honey to raise young bees but just mostly honey (from what I remember) to keep 
an adult bee going.  Hence, the bees can start raising brood around the end of December/First of January and feed the young stored up pollen.  Here in North 
Carolina the Maples bloom around the first of February so the bees are able to 
get some earily pollen from the Maples.  If the bees do not have pollen they 
cannot raise brood.




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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: "Yugo" Bee: Proper name?
Message-ID: <CovMKx.H86@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
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Date: Tue, 26 Apr 94 17:35:39 +0100
From: mbgmg@seqnet.dl.ac.uk
Message-Id: <9404261635.AA12875@s-crim1>


Hi to everybody! I am a new reader of this conference. I am from  Slovenia and I
 am a beekeeper as well. I would like to add few things about Yogoslavian bee.
This bee is actually Slovenian or more accuratelly (as its latin name say; Apis
melificera carnica) Carnian or Carniolian bee (Carnia is a part of Slovenia).
Our name for this bee is Carnian grey bee, but never before I heard of that bee
as Yugoslavian bee. It was breede in the teritories of Slovenia many years
before existance of Yugoslavia (Slovenia was the part of Austro-Hungarian
empire until WW I). It was breed in that teritories for many years or centuries
but first time widely introduced by famous Slovenian beekeeper Anton Jansa,
who was a royal beekeeper in the court of queen Maria Theresia. I am not a
potent Slovenian nationalist but I think that the name Yugoslavian bee for it
is really inappropriate.

At the end, I would like to ask for some more informations about resistance of
that bee, because I didn't know that it is supposed to be more resistant. At
home we have several hives with that bees and we have a problems with mites as
well (especially big problems were with varoa few years (3 and 4) ago, when in
one winter almost half of all beefamilies in Slovenia (official estimation)
didn't survive through the winter mostly becouse of highly infection with
Varoa Jacobsoni

Gregor   mbgmg@seqnet.dl.ac.uk
-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


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From: hood@tom.alf.dec.com (Doug Hood)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: African honey bees:How far North?
Date: 2 May 1994 14:11:53 GMT
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Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu) writes:

>correct, California would still be in trouble.  Eric Mussen noted last year 
>that the feral European colonies have all but died off due to Varroa, so 
>there won't be much diluting going on.


Which leads to the inevitable question: How will the Africanized hives 
fare against Varroa? 


doug


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From: young@auntystokes.larc.nasa.gov (John Young)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: More Varroa info from bee-l
Date: 02 May 1994 21:27:52 GMT
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In-reply-to: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu's message of 1 May 1994 07:33:49 GMT

In article <2pvm0t$3av@news.acns.nwu.edu> pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) writes:
>From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng)
>Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
>Date: 1 May 1994 07:33:49 GMT
>Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston IL
>Keywords: Varroa, mite
>
>Has anyone ever seen Varroa mites on a queen bee?  If not, anyone care to
>venture any guesses as to why?
>
>Regards,
>Paul
>-- 
>Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu)
>Northwestern University Medical School, MSTP-1
>Ward Bldg. Box 213
>Chicago, IL 60611

Yes...  I observed varroa on a queen in my observation hive last summer.

:-(							JY
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
John E. Young                         Internet: j.e.young@larc.nasa.gov
Analytical Services & Mat'ls,   107 Research Dr. Hampton, VA 23681-0001
All relevant disclaimers apply...


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From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: swarming?
Date: 2 May 1994 22:07:38 GMT
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Warner Granade (jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU) wrote:

: This morning when I checked my hive, there were about 100 bees above the
: opening. I have never noticed them there previously. Is this a signal of
: a possible swarm developing. I did notice that the bees were landing at
: the rate of @5 per second. Apparently the hive is strong and busy.
: --
: Warner Granade *****jwg2y@virginia.edu
: 804-924-7409

warner -

if by "above the opening" you mean on the outside of the super above the
opening, i have seen this when it is hot and humid (many hundreds of
bees!). it did not lead to swarming.

regards, richard

rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov
all disclaimers apply


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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How long do I feed a new colony?
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Mon, 02 May 1994 17:26:16 -0500
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In article <KCRADY.94Apr18142924@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>,
kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Kirk Crady) wrote:

> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I hope you'll take a minute or two to pass along some insights to a new
> beekeeper. 
> 
> I've just installed two 3 lb. colonies of bees into hives in Virginia.
> The bees went in last Wednesday afternoon, 4/13. Since then, they seem
> to be consuming about a pint of 1:1 sugar syrup per day. 
> 
> I refilled the jars for the first time yesterday (Sunday). Each hive
> has one half-gal. and one quart mason jar (3 qts.ttl.) placed as entrance 
> feeders.
> 
> Do you think a third re-filling is necessary?  The daily temps around here
> are mid 70's and there seems to be a lot of dogwood, redbud and apple
> trees blooming now. 
> 
> What kind of rule of thumb do you folks use?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kirk Crady
> 
> kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu

sorry about the late response to this posting, but I haven't had time to
wade through all my mail, etc. and just read this today.

I keep feeding until the bees won't take any more - in my experience
the bees prefer the natural stuff, and will stop taking the syrup once
a sufficiently strong nectar flow is on.

A second rule of thumb I have heard is to keep the syrup on until the
first box is drawn out (assuming you started the packages on foundation),
and you are placing the second deep hive body (we run two deeps around here
for the main part of the hive, with any additional supers on above that
available for harvesting honey).

A final comment is that I very much prefer top feeding a colony as
opposed to using entrance feeders. For top feeding, I place the feed jars
on top of the inner cover (on top of a couple of sticks or whatever, so the
bees can get to the feeding holes), place an old hive body around the feed
jar, and an outer (telescoping) cover on top of the whole thing. I find
that
this system basically eliminates robbing that can occur with an entrance
feeder.

hope this helps.

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************


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From: caj@nessie.mcc.ac.uk (Christine Jordan)
Subject: moving bees
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Hello,

I have a question to hobby beekeepers in other countries. Is it common to
shift your bees around in search of a honey crop?

We used to keep a few hives in Scotland, and the local amateurs used to 
combine every autumn to take their bees to the heather (Aug 14th was the
traditional date, when the grouse shooting started). We never managed this 
(it was a fairly serious undertaking, and we usually had a local flow from 
the Rosebay Willow Herb (Fireweed?) and late raspberries to keep us going. 
(some people even talked of moving their hives away in spring, to avoid the 
oilseed rape. BTW Flax is the latest trend in farm crops, pretty flowers, any 
nectar?).

Sadly a move to English suburbia has stopped our beekeeping for the moment,
but I still find it a fascinating hobby.

------------   Christine Jordan caj@jb.man.ac.uk  -------------------
In Cheshire, where the fruit trees are coming out, the rape is in flower,
and sycamore nearly there. (and the swallows have arrived to eat our bees).







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From: alan@papaioea.manawatu.planet.co.nz (Alan Brown)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,soc.culture.australia,soc.culture.new-zealand
Subject: Re: BUMBLE BEES - please post a description of your local variety
Date: 3 May 1994 01:34:16 GMT
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In article <1994May2.225435.2234@gaya.wcc.govt.nz>, mdh@gaya.wcc.govt.nz (Martin D. Hunt) writes:

|> Just as well you didn't tempt fate - I have heard of people who have been 
|> stung, while under the false impression that they were stingless.

They only sting when _really_ provoked, however they have amazingly
powerful (& quite sharp) jaws and will nip hard enough to draw blood 
if handled incorrectly. 
(Correctly = don't grab their wings or legs, they don't like it)

It's really an interesting experience to have a very warm fuzzy insect
sitting in your palm & they generally appreciate the heat from your hands
on a cold wet day :-) (well, they don't try biting anyway)

At one place we lived we had to put nets over the beans as the little 
buggers would bite into the base of the flowers to get at the nectar, 
ruining the crop.

-- 
AB
alan@manawatu.planet.co.nz == alan@manawatu.gen.nz <> brown_a@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz



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Subject: Re: BUMBLE BEES - please post a description of your local variety
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From: mdh@gaya.wcc.govt.nz (Martin D. Hunt)
Date: 2 May 94 22:54:35 +1200
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In article <2pt11b$lbd@sunb.ocs.mq.edu.au>, johns@macadam.mpce.mq.edu.au (John Savage) writes:
> I have been interested in the discussion on Bumble Bees, more so to find out
> that there are different types. I didn't know ANY lived in colonies.

The bumble bee in New Zealand is, like the honey bee, introduced from the 
Northern Hemisphere. They live in colonies.
> 
> In Australia, there are no bumble bees of any description.  Our native bees
> are tiny, and usually mistaken for little flies.  

"Although relatively common, native bees are often small and do not live in 
large colonies as the introduced bees do." (Natural History of New Zealand, 
by Nic Bishop). There are about 40 species of native bee.
> 
> Once, while reclining in a sundrenched garden in New Zealand, my quiet 
> reverie was interrupted by a penetrating drone that approached nearer and 
> nearer.  Anxiously seeking the source of the sound, I was amazed to behold a 
> huge canary-yellow bee industriously visiting flower heads in determined, 
> methodical succession.  In size, it resembled a pickled olive with tiny wings 
> - I was astonished that such an ungainly-proportioned craft could execute 
> these deft aerobatic manoeuvers to land and feed on wavering petal platforms.
> 
> I believe it to be of solitary habit, and with no sting; though I chose not
> to tempt fate all the same.

Just as well you didn't tempt fate - I have heard of people who have been 
stung, while under the false impression that they were stingless.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------    ^
Martin D. Hunt	Disclaimer: Don't take too much notice of the above    / \
Wellington	message - I'm not sure if I agree with it myself.   |\/  .\
New Zealand	martinh@gaya.wcc.govt.nz                            |/ \  /
--------------------------------------------------------------------    \/


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!dante.exide.com!dante.exide.com!rogerc Wed May  4 21:29:07 EDT 1994
Article: 201 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!dante.exide.com!dante.exide.com!rogerc
From: rogerc@dante.exide.com (Roger Chen)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How long do I feed a new colony?
Date: 3 May 1994 13:09:45 GMT
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NNTP-Posting-Host: inferno.exide.com


I too have heard that entrance feeders will cause a potential problem
of robbing, but my question is: wouldn't this only be a problem in
an apiary, or if your colony was in close proximity to other hives
or swarms?  I maintain only one hive in my back yard here in Raleigh,
and I'm fairly sure there are no other beekeepers in my neighborhood,
although I couldn't be as sure about swarms.  How great are the
risks of entrance feeding for a one-hive apiary?

					- RogerC@Exide.com


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Article: 202 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Warner Granade)
Subject: swarming?
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This morning when I checked my hive, there were about 100 bees above the
opening. I have never noticed them there previously. Is this a signal of
a possible swarm developing. I did notice that the bees were landing at
the rate of @5 per second. Apparently the hive is strong and busy.
--
Warner Granade *****jwg2y@virginia.edu
804-924-7409



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Article: 203 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: More Varroa info from bee-l
Date: 1 May 1994 07:33:49 GMT
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston IL
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Keywords: Varroa, mite

Has anyone ever seen Varroa mites on a queen bee?  If not, anyone care to
venture any guesses as to why?

Regards,
Paul
-- 
Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu)
Northwestern University Medical School, MSTP-1
Ward Bldg. Box 213
Chicago, IL 60611


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Wed May  4 21:29:16 EDT 1994
Article: 204 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Propolis?
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Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 10:33:46 GMT
Lines: 25
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:204 alt.religion.kibology:29281

>
>Your post has triggered the Flame-Bot...
>
>
>----- Activate Flame-Bot -----
>----- End Flame-Bot -----
>-- 
>Tom Harington ------------ tph@sosi.com ----------- mechanist@aol.com
>      Engineer, Cybernetic Entomologist, Techno-Rat, H.P.L.D.
>======================================================================
  With all due respect, and in the spirit of usenet, I acknowledge your right
to say what you want and when you want.
 Now that you have said your piece, and expressed yourself, and have been
acknowledged, how about talking about beekeeping and bee-culture, bee hive
products or maybe bee lore?
 Other subjects are not appropriate here and will only cause angst. Do you
want to do this?
Adam 

-- 
===============================================================================
Adam Finkelstein  VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801
703-433-1006 (V)   703-434-5607 (Fax)   703-564-4394 (Pager)
adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu    adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu        |Bees To Please|
================================================================================


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!jobone!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!news.mic.ucla.edu!library.ucla.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!odin!fido.asd.sgi.com!sgi!cdp!libby Wed May  4 21:29:18 EDT 1994
Article: 205 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Libby Goldstein <libby@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 02 May 94 19:19 PDT
Subject: Re: swarming?
Message-ID: <-2145067295@cdp>
References: <CoxtDL.Hvz@murdoch.acc.virginia.>
Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway <notes@igc.apc.org>
Lines: 5

It was hot, I bet. When it is the bees frequently sit outside the heve to cool
off. If your weather is anything like ours here in Philly, it's got cool again, 
and the bees are probably not "hanging out".

Libby


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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: hello
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Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 14:26:15 GMT
Lines: 25

In article <9404281708342@beenet.com>,
Andy Nachbaur <andy.nachbaur@beenet.com> wrote:
>         ___     ___     ___     ___     ___     ___     ___     ___
>     ___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___
>    /   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/XXX\___/   \___/   \___/   \___/XXX\
>    \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \XXX/:::\___/:::\___/:::\___/:::\XXX/
>    /XXX\  Wild Bee's joining the Beekeeper's::::::::::::::::::::::/   \
>    \XXX/  in sci.agriculture.beekeeping!     ::::::::::::::::::::::\___/
>    /   \           __         __                   `:::::::::::::::/   \
>    \___/          /  \ \^+^/ /  \      Andy Nachbaur, sysop `::::::\___/
>    /   \          \   \(O O)/   /      Wild Bee's BBS          `:::/   \
>    \___/           \   \\_//   //-->>  BEENET.COM                `:\___/
>    /   \      ------oOO--Y--OOo----------------------------       :/   \
>    \___/    ___     ___     ___     ___     ___     ___     ___    \___/
>    /   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/XXX\___/   \___/   \
>    \___/   \___/XXX\___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \XXX/   \___/   \___/
>        \___/   \XXX/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/   \___/


 Welcome!
Adam :)
-- 
================================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   ===========


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!jobone!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!MathWorks.Com!news.kei.com!world!moroney Wed May  4 21:29:22 EDT 1994
Article: 207 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: "Yugo" Bee: Proper name?
Message-ID: <2IonjaE96ZrF063yn@world.std.com>
Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <CovMKx.H86@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 05:28:50 GMT
Lines: 14

> From: mbgmg@seqnet.dl.ac.uk

>I am from  Slovenia and I
>  am a beekeeper as well. I would like to add few things about Yogoslavian bee.
> This bee is actually Slovenian or more accuratelly (as its latin name say; Apis
> melificera carnica) Carnian or Carniolian bee (Carnia is a part of Slovenia).

The "Yugo bee" developed for mite resistance isn't any generic Carniolian
bee.  It is a specific _strain_ of (Carniolian? hybrid?) bee developed in
the former Yugoslavia (don't know which part) that shows promise in mite
resistance.  It has only recently been brought to the US.  We've had regular
Carniolian bees and hybrids of them for quite a while.

-Mike


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Article: 208 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: ANP Comb?
Message-ID: <kNonjaE96JsI063yn@world.std.com>
Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 05:34:54 GMT
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Regarding fighting Varroa, ANP comb is claimed to fight varroa because
the bees raised in them develop faster.  Question:  Does it work?  And
why do the bees develop faster in them?  (The cells are normal sized at
the top and wider at the bottom)  Is it worth it (it costs $60+ plus
frames per hive to replace all the brood frames in a 2 body hive)

-Mike


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!demon!roentgen.demon.co.uk!david Wed May  4 21:29:25 EDT 1994
Article: 209 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: david@roentgen.demon.co.uk (Dr David Lauckner)
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Subject: Bee Deterrent
Organization: Wansbeck Radiology Department
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Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 11:08:39 +0000
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I need a bee deterrent!!......strange words from a beekeeper maybe but ...
How can I stop swarming bees coming back to the same place year after year.
The place is my roof and the simple answer is better swarm control...
but nature is a bitch and in each of the last three years I have had the
same problem.  Swarm control for me is based on a divide in May/ unite in July
to go with strong colonies to heather moors in August.
{Potential FAQ entry: Swarm control}
However the season is forced by oilseed rape in early May; so keep colony 
together to maximise harvest, then split before they swarm, having broken
down Q cells during the rape nectar flow. A some point the weather intervenes
preventing the crucial control move. Next fine day and they are on the move at 
just the time you are ready to deal with them. Next thing divorce looms as they move into the roof with exploratory sorties to bedrooms etc. 
I have removed them from the roof space using various spelaeological manoeuvres
and toxins and a vacuum cleaner but the dumb beasts never learn and back they
come next year. (Yes I know that is an illogical statement but so what). 
It has been suggested that I spray the roof space that they go to with creosote
to mask the "bee smell" .  There must be a way to dissuade the scouts from 
believing my roof is the place to go.
Any other suggestions ? Is there a commercially available preparation ?
David 

P.S. Paul, feel free to reply but please remember that many of us are not
organic chemist with laboratory facilities. E-mail may be more fire-resistant !!

--
Dr David Lauckner                        Phone: 0670-521212
Wansbeck General Hospital                Fax:   0670-529778
ASHINGTON, Northumberland        e-mail: david@roentgen.demon.co.uk
United Kingdom.


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Article: 210 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mac@cis.ksu.edu (Myron A. Calhoun)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Deterrent
Date: 4 May 94 14:01:27 GMT
Organization: Kansas State University
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david@roentgen.demon.co.uk (Dr David Lauckner) writes:
>I need a bee deterrent!!......strange words from a beekeeper maybe but ...
>How can I stop swarming bees coming back to the same place year after year.
>The place is my roof....

Buy a can of "insulating foam" at your local hardware store and use it
to seal the entrances to your attic spaces.  That stuff foams up something
fierce and can be used to plug small and large cracks in houses, holes in
hollow trees, etc.

--Myron.
-- 
# Five boxes preserve our freedoms:  soap, ballot, jury, witness, and cartridge.
# Myron A. Calhoun, PhD EE; Assoc. Professor  (913) 539-4448 home
# INTERNET: mac@cis.ksu.edu                         532-6350 work, 532-7353 fax
#     UUCP: ...rutgers!depot!mac      Packet radio: W0PBV@N0ARY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA


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Article: 232 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: blda@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re:African honeybees and varroa
Message-ID: <1994May7.144240.4346@tower>
Date: 7 May 94 14:42:40 -0500
Lines: 10


Regarding varroa and "Africanized" bees...I worked with
honeybees in Zaire and varroa was never a problem.  It is
believed that the development rate of African bees keeps
the population down (African bees develop faster than
European stock).

Barbara




From altabios@bham.ac.uk Sun Jun 12 23:09:55 EDT 1994
Article: 9582 of misc.rural
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From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Moving bee hives
Date: 8 Jun 1994 13:16:39 GMT
Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK
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In article <Vm1cNc1w165w@ersys.edmonton.ab.ca>, jchamber@ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (John Chamberlain) says:
>
>I am a beginning beekeeper who has a chance to buy three working hives.
>They are located about thirty miles from my place.  I am looking for info 
>about moving them, such as time of day, preparing the hive, etc.
>
>Thanks
>John
>
>--
>John Chamberlain   jchamber@ersys.edmonton.ab.ca   
>Edmonton Remote Systems   Serving Edmonton/Northern Alberta since 1982


Move them in the evening when they are all back in the hive. Stop up the entrance
with some cloth and they should be OK. The hives may be very heavy it may take two
people to move them. Bees will cope with either a move of under a yard or over a mile. If
you are moving them less than a mile away, they may fly back to their old site. 
Make sure the hive are secure in the car. It is very interesting to drive with a steadily
increasing number of noisy passengers in the car. When you get to your new site
just open up the entrance. They will start working next day as if nothing had happened.


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!news.sinet.slb.com!news.london.sinet.slb.com!news.gatwick.sgp.slb.com!news Mon Jul  4 00:07:44 EDT 1994
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From: bokhorst@gatwick.sgp.slb.com (Karel Bokhorst)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Apitherapy Information wanted
Date: 27 Jun 1994 09:39:42 GMT
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In article 2HJ@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU, adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) writes:
>
>Date:         Fri, 24 Jun 1994 14:13:59 -0400
>From: Lynn Spagnesi <SPAGNESI@ADMIN.ACES.K12.CT.US>
>Subject:      bee sting therapy
>
>Hello,
>Does anyone reading this group have information on Bee Venom Therapy? (used to
>treat arthritis and multiple sclerosis)? I have received hard copy information
>from the Apitherical Society but am disapointed not to have found any
>discussion in other listserv medical groups?
>Any information would be GREATLY appreciated
>Thank You - Lynn
>
>-- 
>================================================================================
> Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
>===============================================   |Bees To Please|   ===========



I am interested in this information as well. Could any body please post instead of
mailing the original poster.

Thanks,

Karel Bokhorst
bokhorst@gatwick.sgp.slb.com



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Article: 545 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: zola@u.washington.edu ()
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Questions from a non-bee person, all help appreciated.
Date: 27 Jun 1994 17:47:21 GMT
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Hello-
I have two questions for anyone who cares to answer.

a)  My house has shingles on it, and in one particular section around the
    door to the balcony on the second floor I believe there are very large
    "bee hives".  The quotes are because I am not sure there really *are*
    hives, or for that matter I am not entirely sure they are bees.  This
    sounds goofy (and I am not an idiot, really!)....  But these little guys
    don't look like usual bees.  They are the shape of a honey bee (not a big
    bumble bee), but they are all black.  They are not flies, they are not
    hornets (I am starting to sound like Dr. Seuss).  They crawl between the
    shingles and dissappear - and they have about 5 favorite entry spots 
    distributed on either side of the door.  There are two areas they go into
    both of which are between the door and the windows and about 4 feet wide
    and 7 feet tall.  They have been there for years, and I am afraid that
    one day the wall is going to collapse or they will start coming out inside
    of the house (aaaaaaaaugh).  What does this sound like to you?  They are
    not active in the winter, so far as I have seen.

b)  Are there any beekeepers in Western-ish Washington that would take another 
    person along on bee-rounds sometime?  I would really love to learn more
    in real-time (not only reading ....), but I know relatively little about 
    beekeeping, and don't forsee a time when I could keep bees.  But I am still
    interested ...

Thanks,
Rebecca



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From: ez021641@dale.ucdavis.edu (Son Trinh)
Subject: Any hobbyist in SF??
Message-ID: <Cs2py2.DwC@ucdavis.edu>
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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 20:51:37 GMT
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Hi all,

   Just wondering if there are any hobbyist in SF?? I'm planning to start
up 1 or 2 colonies in my backyard.. Would be nice to know there will be
others..

			-st

Ps. Paul, don't EVEN think about flaming me.. ;P


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Mon Jul  4 00:07:48 EDT 1994
Article: 547 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Apitherapy Information wanted
Message-ID: <Cs2Jwy.Gw2@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
 
 Try The American Apitherapy Society, Inc.
     P.O. Box 124,
     Woodville, New Hampshire  03785  
     Phone and fax: 603 747 2507 
References: <Crwyzw.2HJ@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <2um6ou$j6k@gorgon.gatwick.sgp.slb.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 18:41:22 GMT
Lines: 4

-- 
================================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   ===========


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!eff!news.kei.com!world!moroney Mon Jul  4 00:07:49 EDT 1994
Article: 548 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: Questions from a non-bee person, all help appreciated.
Message-ID: <AJs3kaE967EU065yn@world.std.com>
Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <2un3b9$6dk@news.u.washington.edu>
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 23:46:18 GMT
Lines: 12

In article <2un3b9$6dk@news.u.washington.edu>, zola@u.washington.e wrote:
>     sounds goofy (and I am not an idiot, really!)....  But these little guys
>     don't look like usual bees.  They are the shape of a honey bee (not a big
>     bumble bee), but they are all black.  They are not flies, they are not

I once asked about a bee I spotted that looked like a honeybee but was all
black.  I was told it may be a carpenter bee.  If yours are, they could be
damaging your house.  Are the wings dark, but still transparent?  Do they have
yellow hairs on the thorax?  (same color yellow as the yellow hairs on a
bumblebee)

-Mike


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Mon Jul  4 00:07:50 EDT 1994
Article: 549 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Apitherapy Information wanted
Message-ID: <Cs4Hox.7Kr@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
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Date: Tue, 28 Jun 1994 19:48:33 GMT
Lines: 17

 Sorry for the renduncy, but someone mailed me saying the last post's
information didn't come through . If you got it already, excuse the repeat.
Adam

 
           Try: 


     The American Apitherapy Society, Inc.
     P.O. Box 124,
     Woodville, New Hampshire  03785  
     Phone and fax: 603 747 2507 

-- 
================================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   ===========


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!world!moroney Mon Jul  4 00:07:52 EDT 1994
Article: 550 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Dual Occupancy Queen Cell
Message-ID: <N7F4kaE96FHC065yn@world.std.com>
Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
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Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 05:00:23 GMT
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I was going through a hive with a few ripe queen cells (they wanted to swarm
but I split the hive and removed the queen) which had a fully developed queen
when I opened a couple. I noticed one that was a bit larger and may have been
slightly crushed. When I opened it at the end I saw the tail end of what seemed
to be a worker.  When I opened it more I found both a worker and a queen,
face to face, fully developed, and both dead.  Any guesses how that came to be?

-Mike


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!world!moroney Mon Jul  4 00:07:53 EDT 1994
Article: 551 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: How to entice bees to move?
Message-ID: <wLF4kaE963jF065yn@world.std.com>
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References: <KADORKEN.94Jun23100056@sabre.Thinkage.On.CA>
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Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 05:15:54 GMT
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In article <KADORKEN.94Jun23100056@sabre.Thinkage.On.CA>, Keith Dorken wrote:
> I have an old log house on my property that has two windows inhabited by 
> bees. They return on their own every spring. They just recently 'swarmed'
> and are busy flying about. Apparently this has gone on for a number of years,
> according to the previous owners.
> 
> It is nice to have the bees around for the fruit trees, etc., but at some
> point I hope to start fixing the old house, and the bees will have to go.
> 
> Is it possible to convince them to move to a regular beekeeping hive?
> How?

I don't know what you mean by occupying a window, but it is usually rather
difficult to remove bees from a building non-destructively.  Usually the
technique is to set up a one-way exit at the nest opening and a hive nearby
for several weeks to take in the bees unable to return.  If the window can be
taken apart by a beekeeper, he can remove the comb and transfer them to a hive.

> It is hard to believe the bees are able to overwinter in this house. It
> is uninhabited, and unheated. The last winter was particularly cold here in
> Ontario, Canada and I didn't expect to see them back. Or, is is possible that
> some of the bees migrate and return in the spring ? 

As long as they have enough honey and bees, cold weather is actually better for
them, at least according to an old-time beekeeper.  They don't waste energy
looking for non-existant food on the warmer winter days.

-Mike


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!aries!sandrock Mon Jul  4 00:07:54 EDT 1994
Article: 552 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Reactions to bee stings
Date: 30 Jun 94 01:54:11 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <sandrock.772941251@aries>
References: <94171.185540JVF101@psuvm.psu.edu> <2u80ck$9ad@news.acns.nwu.edu> <CruM4M.6yu@compsci.liverpool.ac.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.scs.uiuc.edu

bbeattie@csc.liv.ac.uk (B.J.H. Beattie) writes:

>If you know you are likely to get stung - as in
>inspecting bees - take the antihistamine an hour before you go to them
>if you think you need it.

So what sort of anihistamine would you recommend, and how much of a
difference does it make? And would it interfere with one's chances
of becoming "immune" to bee-stings?

Thanks to everyone for the informative contributions.

Mark Sandrock
-- 
Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign	"Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
Chemical Sciences Computer Center	 Menschen durch die Liebe."
505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801			--Julius Langbehn
Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!galileo.cc.rochester.edu!ilex.lle.rochester.edu!prine Mon Jul  4 00:07:55 EDT 1994
Article: 553 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: prine@ilex.lle.rochester.edu (Ron Prine)
Subject: Guard bees and ants
Message-ID: <1994Jun30.025220.28055@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
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  I have recently started a hive and I have been having a great time watching
them.  This last weekend I noticed that some ants have been going into the
hive by way of the inner cover.  It does not appear that the ants are living
up there, but they are after some honey.  Is this something to worry about and
is there something I can do to stop this, or should I just live with this as
part of normal beekeeping.

  As to the guards, I noticed that they do patrol for the ants and do keep
them from entering by bottom board entrance.  My hive are set on cinder blocks
and I have now noticed some guards taking positions on the ends of the block
nearest to the hive entrance.  They were doing a nice job of keeping the ants
from coming up that way, but they are still coming up by the block in the back
of the hive.

(First hive notes)
  Checked brood, and this queen is doing one heck of a job laying.  Row after
row of laid eggs, with none skipped and every cell on frame used.  Since this
hive had all frames in use except for one that was untouched (on hot side of
hive, move to cool side) I decided to move up addition of next super.  They
seemed to appreciate the room.  Now I am waiting for the workers to get going
(I figure there is about 10 days till they get out and about).

Thanks for the help


--
Ron Prine	DoD #1435		prine@lle.rochester.edu


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!boulder!csn!jabba.cybernetics.net!NewsWatcher!user Mon Jul  4 00:07:56 EDT 1994
Article: 554 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: eric@alaska.net (Eric)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Are You A Dreamer
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 30 Jun 1994 07:20:04 GMT
Organization: Love, Peace, and Truth Inc.
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <eric-290694231854@204.17.140.108>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.17.140.108

Hi,

    Disclaimer:  This is not a "Get Rich Quick" message.  This business
                 opportunity will take a little time, and it will grow
                 as large as you want it to.  It just depends on how much
                 effort you're willing to put into it.

   Do you have a dream?  I do.  My dream is to become debt free, and have
enough money to go down to the store and purchase what I will, without
having to worry about writing a bad check.  That is my dream.  What's
yours?
A new car?  A new computer?  A little extra cash in your savings account?
   Well, let me say, I'm on my way to reaching my dream.  Slowly, a little
at a time, but my business is growing, and hopefully, if you would like
more
information, and care to create your own business, your dream will come
true
as well.
   Your business doesn't take a huge start-up fee, to begin with, it 
probably won't take up a lot of your time.  But, as it grows, and you start
to see some real earnings, then you won't have to worry about your "real"
job.
You can spend your time building ->your<- business, as well as having more
time for the activities you enjoy doing.
   If you're interested in reaching your dream, please mail me at
eric@alaska.net.

                 Thanks for your time,

                       -eric


-- 
eric@alaska.net


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!csn!jabba.cybernetics.net!eric.alaska.net!user Mon Jul  4 00:07:57 EDT 1994
Article: 555 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: eric@alaska.net (Eric)
Newsgroups: talk.religion.misc,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Are You A Dreamer?
Date: 30 Jun 1994 19:28:19 GMT
Organization: Love, Peace, and Truth Inc.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.17.140.108
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu talk.religion.misc:82792 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:555

Hi,

    Disclaimer:  This is not a "Get Rich Quick" message.  This business
                 opportunity will take a little time, and it will grow
                 as large as you want it to.  It just depends on how much
                 effort you're willing to put into it.

   Do you have a dream?  I do.  My dream is to become debt free, and have
enough money to go down to the store and purchase what I will, without
having to worry about writing a bad check.  That is my dream.  What's
yours?
A new car?  A new computer?  A little extra cash in your savings account?
   Well, let me say, I'm on my way to reaching my dream.  Slowly, a little
at a time, but my business is growing, and hopefully, if you would like
more
information, and care to create your own business, your dream will come
true
as well.
   Your business doesn't take a huge start-up fee, to begin with, it 
probably won't take up a lot of your time.  But, as it grows, and you start
to see some real earnings, then you won't have to worry about your "real"
job.
You can spend your time building ->your<- business, as well as having more
time for the activities you enjoy doing.
   If you're interested in reaching your dream, please mail me at
eric@alaska.net.

                 Thanks for your time,

                       -eric


-- 
eric@alaska.net


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!nova.umd.edu!not-for-mail Mon Jul  4 00:07:58 EDT 1994
Article: 556 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: giannini@nova.umd.edu (Jodi Giannini)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Reactions to bee stings
Date: 30 Jun 1994 16:27:32 -0400
Organization: University of Maryland University College
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <2uv9rk$g1p@nova.umd.edu>
References: <94171.185540JVF101@psuvm.psu.edu> <2u80ck$9ad@news.acns.nwu.edu> <CruM4M.6yu@compsci.liverpool.ac.uk> <sandrock.772941251@aries>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nova.umd.edu

My reaction is generally: 'Ow! Oo! $#(*$#)!'

However, while I am not allergic to bee stings, my brother is deathly so,
and we keep several bee sting kits around.  (In the boat, in the house, etc)

No one else in my family is allergic.

Jodi G.
-- 
Jodi Giannini (giannini@nova.umd.edu)
"This parrot is DEAD!" 
"No 'e's not...'e's pining for the fjords..."
(ask me about the rec.pets.birds faq)


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!ceylon!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Mon Jul  4 00:08:00 EDT 1994
Article: 557 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Robert Allen Stevens <meaderyman@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Guard bees and ants
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 94 19:52:07 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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X-To: Ron Prine <prine@ilex.lle.rochester.edu>

Ron, this is one of the most common questions we get from beekeepers on
our 800 number - In tropical countries, the ants can be a problem -
up here in the North - they just coexist - often setting up colonies between
the inner cover and the outer cover. They are after a cool dark place -
not the honey - a queen rite colony never has any problem keeping them at bay.
Just knock them off the inner cover everytime you open the hive. Your colony
is doing fine - don't be afraid to feed them until 20 frames of foundation
are drqa(drawn) - less foragers outside mean more laying inside - call
us at 800-6323379 for a beekeeping catalogue - Bob


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!swrinde!pipex!uknet!liv!lucs!bbeattie Mon Jul  4 00:08:01 EDT 1994
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From: bbeattie@csc.liv.ac.uk (B.J.H. Beattie)
Subject: Re: Reactions to bee stings
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Mark Sandrock (sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu) wrote:
> bbeattie@csc.liv.ac.uk (B.J.H. Beattie) writes:

> >If you know you are likely to get stung - as in
> >inspecting bees - take the antihistamine an hour before you go to them
> >if you think you need it.

> So what sort of anihistamine would you recommend, and how much of a
> difference does it make? 

I use a proprietary brand recommended by the local pharmacist - probably
not the same name in other countries. I found it helped a lot when I
first started keeping bees, reducing local swelling considerably; but
every individual reacts differently.

However, after a few year's experience with my bees, I find I don't get 
stung as much, and when I do, I don't react as much as I used to. 
Probably I've learned to handle them more sympathetically so they don't
get so angry, and learned when not to push my luck!



> And would it interfere with one's chances
> of becoming "immune" to bee-stings?

I don't know - have to ask a doctor. However, see above! :-)

Bridget.


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!ucdmc.ucdavis.edu!dharry Mon Jul  4 00:08:02 EDT 1994
Article: 559 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry)
Subject: Re: Guard bees and ants
Message-ID: <dharry.2.0008ACA8@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu>
Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru)
Organization: University of California, Davis
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Date: Sun, 3 Jul 1994 16:40:24 GMT
Lines: 21


>,... the ants can be a problem -
>up here in the North - they just coexist - 

They may not be a problem in New York, but they are a *major* problem here 
in the Central Valley of CA.  A bee colony can quickly become completely 
overrun by foraging ants.  Eventually the bees will just leave!

There was a discussion of this problem in the American Bee Journal some 
months ago. Some of the responses advocated treating the surrounding soil 
with oil, an environmentally unacceptable solution IMO.

I personally deal with ants by placing my colonies on specially constructed 
benches.  The legs are placed in small pails that I keep filled with 3-4 
inches of water.  This provides 100% protection from ants.  Another 
effective method is to wrap aluminum foil around the legs of the benches and 
smear it with heavy grease. Incidently, if you decide to use the water pail 
method, make sure you build a small plywoood shelf that projects out from 
the front legs and prevents bees from falling into the front leg pails.  You'
d be surprised how many bees will be trapped when falling from the hive 
entrance, eventually leading to a smelly and unhygeinic mess.


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!jabba.cybernetics.net!eric.alaska.net!user Mon Jul  4 00:08:03 EDT 1994
Article: 560 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: eric@alaska.net (Eric)
Newsgroups: alt.art.theft.scream.scream.scream,alt.autos.antique,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Are You A Dreamer?
Followup-To: alt.art.theft.scream.scream.scream
Date: 3 Jul 1994 19:23:46 GMT
Organization: Love, Peace, and Truth Inc.
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.art.theft.scream.scream.scream:51 alt.autos.antique:4478 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:560

Hi,

    Disclaimer:  This is not a "Get Rich Quick" message.  This business
                 opportunity will take a little time, and it will grow
                 as large as you want it to.  It just depends on how much
                 effort you're willing to put into it.

   Do you have a dream?  I do.  My dream is to become debt free, and have
enough money to go down to the store and purchase what I will, without
having to worry about writing a bad check.  That is my dream.  What's
yours?
A new car?  A new computer?  A little extra cash in your savings account?
   Well, let me say, I'm on my way to reaching my dream.  Slowly, a little
at a time, but my business is growing, and hopefully, if you would like
more
information, and care to create your own business, your dream will come
true
as well.
   Your business doesn't take a huge start-up fee, to begin with, it 
probably won't take up a lot of your time.  But, as it grows, and you start
to see some real earnings, then you won't have to worry about your "real"
job.
You can spend your time building ->your<- business, as well as having more
time for the activities you enjoy doing.
   If you're interested in reaching your dream, please mail me at
eric@alaska.net.

                 Thanks for your time,

                       -eric

P.S.  I will not respond within the newgroup so please e-mail all 
      replies.  Thank you.

-- 
eric@alaska.net


