Subject: photographing bees during winter

From: [email-masked] (Charles St. Charles)
Date: 15 Dec 1994 15:09:01 GMT

I'm a freelance photographer who needs a little advice. One of the
editors that I work with is interested in a story on beekeeping. I have
plenty of images of bees on flowers and in flight, but she wants me to
get some photos of bees in a hive. My concern is that it is too cold
now to open a hive. 

My understanding is that at about 57F the bees cluster on the top of
the lower hive body into a ball that expands or contracts in responce
to the ambient temperature. The bees slowly circulate in this ball
where it is considerably warmer in the center. Occasionally they will
make short flights for elimination purposes if the temperature is warm
enough.

I'm a photographer, not a beekeeper, so please correct me if I'm wrong
(obviously there are many details that I've glossed over). My question
is will it be harmful to a hive to open it up long enough to get
photographs (probably in the range of 15 minutes). Maybe a better
question is at what temperature will it NOT be harmful to the hive?
Also how would you recommend finding a beekeeper in my area (central
NJ) that would work with me?

Thanks in advance for any help. If there is any interested I could post
some digitized bee photos as a token of my thanks...

Charles St. Charles
[email-masked]

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From: Jennifer Finley <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 1994 17:51:55 EST

Hi!  Welcome to the world of beekeeping!

To paraphrase your question: Can you open a beehive for short periods in
winter without jeopardizing the bees?

In a word: Yes.

I have probably opened more beehives in the winter than I have in the
summer over the course of 5 years of tracheal mite studies -- sampling
every six weeks means sampling in February cold and two feet of snow
too.  The only ill effects I ever noticed were in colonies that had six
other reasons to die anyway.  Normal, healthy colonies are not adversely
affected.

As you mentioned, the bees comsume their honey as a fuel to generate
heat inside their clusters, which prevents them from freezing in winter.
The inner core of the cluster is maintained at approximately 32 degrees
C (93-94 F), while the outer edge of the cluster is regulated to 20
degrees C (68 F).  If the bees want to fly during a sunny winter
afternoon, they create a warm tunnel of air to bridge the gap between
the cluster and the entrance to their hive, because, while they may have
fuzzy backs, they don't have fuzzy slippers!  :)

Anyway, here are a few pointers to guide you in your winter
observations:

1) Try to pick a time when the bees are flying.  Most activity occurs
between 2:00 and 4:00 pm on calm afternoons.  This usually coincides
with the warmest part of the day.  (I have seen lots of bees flying at
25 degrees F on a sunny day.)

2) Definitely pick a time when there is little wind.  Wind chill saps
the heat from bees just as it does from people or more so.

3) While there is a lot of talk about temperature cut-offs for opening
hives, I have yet to have a temperature-related problem.  Above 55 F the
bees do not need to concern themselves with heat conservation, so you
can have them open as long as you can stand.  Above 40 F the bees will
most probably be flying if conditions permit.  Above 32 F most colonies
will fly for a few hours in the afternoon conditions permitting.
Between 32 F and about 20 F strong colonies will fly intermittedly in
the afternoons, more colonies will fly on sunny, calm days.  Below 20 F
the majority of colonies stay home and human comfort begins to come into
play, but you can still open hives for a short period if you're crazy enough.

4) Keep track of your "open time" and try to close the colonies in a
reasonable amount of time.  Fifteen minutes is no problem in most
weather.  If you have moderate temperatures, say mid-30's, and LITTLE
WIND, you could extend this time to 30 minutes, 45 minutes, an hour.
Again, the amount of wind chill is the most damaging factor, and you
need to adjust your "open time" accordingly.  The bees will usually tell
you when they've had enough -- they sit quietly for a while, but if they
persist in climbing to the top bars or taking short flights to land on
your shoulder -- it's time to put the lid on.

5) Try to disturb the cluster as little as possible.  Do not remove
frames from the middle of the bees, take the outermost frame if you
must.  If the cluster is occupying several boxes and you must split
them, be sure to protect the bees in the upper box(es) from the wind.
Stack any removed boxes so that the bees in them are together as much as
possible (but don't rearrange frames).  Set them straight down into an
outer cover (don't angle them and leave air gaps) and cover the top with
a second cover or piece of burlap, etc.

You will probably need very little smoke -- enough to crack the lid, but
that's about it unless you delve into the very heart of the cluster.

Have fun warming your hands over the cluster!!!  You'll wish you could
take them home in your pockets!!!!

Jennifer Finley

Graduate student, Entomology, Penn State University