Subject: Prevention of Waxmoth

From: [email-masked] (Rod Ladwig)
Date: 2 Jul 1995 09:13:54 GMT

I would like to know what the best method is for controlling waxmoth in 
extracted supers and brood frames that have been put into storage?

---

From: Richard Yates <[email-masked]>
Date: 3 Jul 1995 11:38:41 GMT

>extracted supers and brood frames that have been put into storage?

I s'pose you might fumigate them with sulphur & then prevent further ingress of
Wax Moth by wrapping the boxes. Acetic acid fumes gasp wheeze need a reasonable
"airing" period b4 re-use, & fumigation is faster. There may be some substance
to store with the frames not not not mothballs - can't remember name, anyone?

Richard.
~~~~~~~~

---

From: [email-masked] (Mark Jensen)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 21:15:01 -0800

In article <[email-masked]>, Richard Yates
<[email-masked]> wrote:

> There may be some substance

Paradichlorobenzene, wax moth crystals. Mann Lake had permission to sell
it for wax moth control, but something was not right with the label and
the EPA is not allowing them to sell it at the present time. Mann Lake is
trying to get approval, but there is no way to know if and when they will
be successful. However, there is another source for para, janitorial
suppliers sell para as hockey puck shaped blocks for use in urinals. Make
sure they are 100% paradichlorobenzene, as other moth ball chemicals are
really bad news.

Mark Jensen              Double J Apiaries        [email-masked]

---

From: Gordon Scott <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 16:38:49 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>
           [email-masked] "Richard Yates" writes:

> There may be some substance to store with the
> frames not not not mothballs - can't remember name, anyone?

Two standard substances in the UK (presumably elsewhere too) are:
	PDB crystals (chemical -- paradichlorobenzine)
	Certan (a biological control)

Regards,
-- 
Gordon Scott	[email-masked]		100332,3310 on CompuServe
Newsletter	[email-masked]	ditto
		Beekeeper, Kendo Sandan, sometime sailor.
		Basingstoke, Hampshire, RG22 5HP, UK

---

From: [email-masked] (Darrell Eifert)
Date: 5 Jul 1995 02:26:34 GMT

Hi folks --

This is a question from my uncle down in Marble, North Carolina (near
Ashville) who keeps two hives both for honey and to help pollinate his
small garden.  He's an old beekeeper from Florida who knows much about
the gentle craft, but being from Florida he is stumped on how to help a
hive survive the winter months in NC. If anyone knows any books or
on-line resources on successfully wintering a hive, I would appreciate
the info.  You can reply to the group or reach me individually at:
[email-masked].  Thanks!

---

From: [email-masked] (Pollinator)
Date: 5 Jul 1995 11:47:31 -0400

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]

>[email-masked].  Thanks!

   While severe winters can be a part of the problem, I believe pollen is
the critical thing.  Late season pollens are nutritionally very poor in
the area.  Commercial beekeepers who go to the mountains for sourwood
honey, remove them as quickly as possible afterwards to go to good pollen
areas.

   If you uncle can move the bees into the coastal plain for winter,
especially, if he can find fields with blooming wild mustard, they will
have high quality pollen every day that they can get out, and will winter
well.  That's about as close as he could come to Florida conditions, where
a variety of pollen is available almost any time.

   If he can't do that there are three other things possible.  Try to move
them locally in late summer to the best pollen areas he can find, so they
can store away plenty of goldenrod and aster pollen.   If he can find
swamp hardwood forest anywhere near, he could put the bees there for
earliest possible spring pollens - willow, alder, swamp maple, etc.  If he
cannot move them at all, he may have to use pollen supplements, which
would help, but are never as good as natural pollen.

   Of course varroa must be knocked down to as low as possible in the fall
by treatment.  And, if he is near apple orchards he may have a problems
with poisoned pollen stored away, such as Penncap M (Trademark) or
powdered organophosphates or carbamates.  Hives with stored poison will
not survive winter, but the problem often is not recognized by beekeepers.

[email-masked]                  Dave Green
PO Box 1215, Hemingway,   SC   29554

---

From: [email-masked] (RCLynn)
Date: 5 Jul 1995 23:53:27 -0400

(Darrell Eifert) writes:

> he is stumped on how to help a
>hive survive the winter months in NC. 

I learned beekeeping in Ohio and then moved to NC, so I think that the
winters in NC are too mild!  

I have survived 5 winters in Greensboro, NC, in the Piedmont which is a
bit milder than the Mountains of Asheville.  The only thing he needs is
the reduce the entrances about the time of the first frost and make
certain that they have at least 30 pounds of stores.  Most old timers in
NC use a full depth hive body and a shallow super on top to overwinter.  I
prefer to use two full depth hive bodies to make sure that they have
plenty of stores.  No need to wrap in tar-paper of anything fancy, just
make sure that they have enough food.

Other points to remember, treat them for foul brood, Varroa, and tracheal
mites, and make sure that they have a good queen to take them through.

Randy Lynn
Blossom Ridge Bee Farm
5402 Ashbey Lane, Summerfield, North Carolina, USA 27358
Phone 910-643-4494, email [email-masked]
Sideline beekeeper with 35 hives.