From pwight@rahul.net Mon Mar  6 10:33:35 EST 1995
Article: 55227 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!pwight.a2i!pwight
From: "Philip F. Wight" <pwight@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Beware Totally Tomatoes
Date: 19 Feb 1995 04:14:27 GMT
Organization: a2i network
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Michelle - Call the credit card co. and give them details - it might not
be too late. 

When you called did you get the names of the people you talked to?  You
should ask to speak to the manager, or the CEO - that might get some
attention. 

Cheers,
Phil
----------------------
 Michelle D Johnson (shel@is.rice.edu) wrote:
: I, like many others, got the Totally Tomatoes catalog and loved it. All these
: peppers and tomatoes that I hadn't seen elsewhere. So I ordered 8 peppers and
: 4 tomatoes (I already had tons of each from other places), and 5 starter tray
: flats to use as bottoms for my 6 packs. 

: First off, TT charged my credit card account 1/11/95, the day they received
: the order, and didn't SHIP ANYTHING until 1/27/95, more than 3 weeks later. It's
: not against the law or anything, but IT STINKS. No other companies, seed or 
: otherwise, that I deal with do that.

: Second off, they shipped everything together, in a carboard box roughly 11x22,
: the size of the trays. It was held together with a single strip of cheap
: packing tape so that there were wide expanses of space that I could slide my
: hand into very easily on both the top and the bottom of the box. The seed
: packets were simply thrown in there, not rubberbanded together or in a smaller
: box, or ziploc or anything. Well, surprise, surprise. Only 3 of 4 of the
: tomatoes packets and 2 of the 8 pepper packets arrived. I assume the others
: slid out during the UPS shipping, but I honestly don't know or care. I called on
: 1/31/95 to report this problem, and was told she'd walk down to the shipping
: area to get them sent out (and this was after finding out that the ones they
: had marked as backordered were actually supposed to have been in the box, too).

: Well, today's 2/17, almost 3 weeks later, and I still don't have my missing
: seeds. I called AGAIN (this is long distance daytime rates, and really getting
: on my nerves!!), and I was told they don't keep records of calls, so don't show
: that I called on 1/31/95, but that she'd walk down to the shipping area "to see
: if we can ship these out to you". !!!!!! I am hopping mad. I paid the credit
: card bill last week, assuming that the seeds would be arriving (boy was I 
: optimistic). What recourse do I have to get either my seeds or my money back? 
: The credit card is Discover, if that makes any difference. 

: For what's it's worth, the seed trays are very nicely designed with nice, deep
: ridges on the bottom in a zigzag pattern so that there can be water in them 
: without the pots sitting in them (I'm not using them for seedling flats), and
: the most reasonably priced I'd found (5 for $6.95). 

: I just wished they paid more attention to their packing habits and their
: customer service. If you only order seeds, I hope they'll ship them in 
: something suitable and you get all of your seeds. This is the only company 
: (out of Pinetree-love them!, Porter & Sons (now extinct Texas), Parks, 
: Thompson & Morgan (overpriced and have had bad luck with their seeds as has
: our local Ag Extension Agent this year), Heirloom Seeds & Totally Tomatoes) 
: that I've gotten this kind of crappy service all around. I will NOT order from
: them in the future, but will try Tomato Growers out of Florida, which was
: recommended (belatedly) by my Ag Extension Agent.

: Your mileage may vary. Good luck. -Shelly
: -- 
: Shelly Johnson                  Computing Consultant
: shel@rice.edu                   CRC Collection Development Specialist
: Rice University, Houston, TX    Publications Team


From jstiller@omni.voicenet.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:37 EST 1995
Article: 55228 of rec.gardens
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From: Jennifer Stiller <jstiller@omni.voicenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Climate zone's in US
Date: 19 Feb 1995 00:30:25 GMT
Organization: pennsylvania gardener
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In article <3i5scb$2u1@news.xs4all.nl> linus, linus@xs4all.nl writes:
>Subject: Climate zone's in US
>From: linus, linus@xs4all.nl
>Date: 18 Feb 1995 22:29:31 GMT
>>Can anyone explain the climate zone's in the US? How many zone's are 
>there, where are they located and how are they defined? 
>In Europe the climate's are named after area's (mediteranean-, land- 
>or seaclimate etc.).
>I often read interesting things in this newsgroup, but it could be a 
>lot more intersting when would understand what these climate zone's 
>are.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Alexandra van Tongeren (linus@xs4all.nl)
>
The zone map concept was developed years ago (I don't know how many)
under the direction of the U.S. National Arboretum in Washington DC.  A
map is developed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and published by
the government.  It shows climate zones for all of North America
(including Canada and Mexico).  The zones are based on "average annual
minimum temperatures" and the current ones are based on the lowest
temperature recorded for each of the years 1974 through 1986 in the U.S.
and Canada and 1971 to 1984 in Mexico.    (The map also covers Hawaii,
even though it is not in North America.)

There are 11 zones shown on the current (1990) version of the map, the
official version of which is a magnificent document printed in color on
heavy paper about 1m x 1.3 m in size.  It is detailed enough that I can
almost figure out whether my garden near Philadelphia is in zone 6 or
zone 7.   To give you an idea of the zones, the temperature range for
Zone 1 is below -45.6 degrees C, zone 2 is -45.6 to -40 degrees, zone 3
is -40 to -34.5 degrees, etc.  My zone 6 is - 23.3 to -17.8 degrees; zone
7 is -17.8 to -12.3 degrees.  Zone 10  (the part of southern Florida that
has temperatures that you imagine Florida has) has an average low
temperature of -1.1 to +4.4 C.  (Zone 11 is in Mexico and a bit of
Hawaii.)

Note that all these temperatures are winter minimums.   The idea is to
let gardeners and farmers know what plants are likely to be winter-killed
by the cold.  The zones do not take into account the enormous variations
in such factors as summer heat, rainfall, and soil type, so they don't
really tell a person what will survive the whole climate, just the winter
cold.

Jennifer Stiller   (jstiller@omni.voicenet.com)


From allen@dataflux.bc.ca Mon Mar  6 10:33:38 EST 1995
Article: 55229 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!psgrain!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!news.DataFlux.BC.CA!usenet
From: "Dave Allen (Better Business Solutions)" <allen@dataflux.bc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Children's Garden
Date: 19 Feb 1995 05:01:52 GMT
Organization: Global DataFlux Ltd., Victoria, BC, Canada
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <3i6jc0$k4h@carver.DataFlux.BC.CA>
References: <3hqeet$g15@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <9502141525.AA47117@g.l.curran> <dclark.172.00088CB6@wellspring.us.dg.com>
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 I made a mistake about that children's bookon gardening. I thought it was called 
plant a rainbos but it was as below.... Although it explains about planting a garden 
it is really more of a picture book for very young children. 
 Here is a list of all the gardening books I could find in a hurry in my wife's library. 
She is a Montessori teacher -and teacher trainer and has about 2000 books in her 
children's library.
 _Planting a Rainbow_ by Lois Ehlert, published by  Harcourt Brace Jovanovich 
(1988)- ISBN 0-15-262610 -7 (pbk)
_Look, Mom, It's Growing_ by Ed Fink, pub by A.B.Morse Co. (1976)  ISBN 
unknown
_The Victory Garden Alphabet Book_ by Jerry Pallotta & Bob Thompson pub by 
Charlesbridge Pub ISBN 0-88106-468-8 (softcover)
_Grow it for Fun_ by Wendy Boise, Pub by Scimitar, UK ISBN 0-241-10068-2
_The Flower Alphabet Book_ by Jerry Patolla pub by Charlesbridge 1988 ISBN 0-
88106-453-X
_A Tree is Nice_ by Janice May Udry, pub by Harper & Row 1956 ISBN 0-06-
443147-9 (1987 reprint) Caldecott Medal
_The Tiny Seed_ by Eric Carle, pub by Scholastic1987, ISBN 0-590-42566-8
_A Very Young Gardener_ by Jill Krementz, pub by Dial Books for Young Readers 
1991 ISBN 0-8037-0874-0
_Looking at Plants_ by David Suzuki, pub by Stoddard Young Readers 1985 
ISBN 0-7737-5039-8
and probably the BEST for ACTUAL GARDENING
__A Kid's First Book of Gardening_ by Derek Fell, Running Press, 1989 ISBN 0-
89471-750-2 ($9.95)
A note in the last book states:
"This book may be ordered by mail from the publisher. Please add $2.50 for 
postage and handling for each copy. But try your bookstore first!
Running Press Book Publishers
125 South Twenty-second Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103

> Opinions expressed are my own.  Any resemblance to other opinions
> living or dead are purely coincidental.
> --------------------



From lily4me@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:39 EST 1995
Article: 55230 of rec.gardens
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From: lily4me@aol.com (LILY 4 ME)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Date: 18 Feb 1995 21:46:42 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I had the opportunity to work with Martha as staff for a huge catering
event.  Yes, she is just as pretentious as she looks.  She treats staff
like dirt and I don't  think she has and original idea in her fluffy
little head.  


From lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz Mon Mar  6 10:33:41 EST 1995
Article: 55231 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!comp.vuw.ac.nz!gcs.co.nz!amigans!surrey.wanganui.gen.nz!lynx
From: lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:  REQUEST: indoor vines?
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <lynx.04w8@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz>
References:  <3hgbgn$6a8@ionews.io.org> <3hjgem$6n5@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
Date: 18 Feb 95 11:39:43 GMT-12
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In article <3hjgem$6n5@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) writes:

>>Hello!  Could anyone suggest a vine/hanging plant for my office?
>>I would like to have something more colourful, preferably something
>>flowering.  And scented (really dreaming in colour now!).  
>>Any suggestions?  
>>Mike

>Or, if you really do have enough light, an indoor clematis

  Yep, flowers and fragrant. Good choice.

  For sheer studliness of ability to grow house plants,
  Medinilla magnifica.  If you manage to grow this well,
  please don't mention it, it'll make me sick =;).

  For heaps of flowers, Thunbergia alata.  No fragrance.
  Pretty and easy.  If alata is too boring, try mysorensis.

  For leaves only, Cissus discolour.  Sultry.

  For "i wanna vine and I want it NOW!", Monstera standleyana 
  a.k.a. guttiferyum.  Stand back.  Also available varigated.

  For there's holes in that theory, Monstera friedrichsthalii or
  M.obliqua expilata a.k.a. leichtlinii, or even M.pittieri.

  For the "National Velvet" look, Philodendron verrucosum.

  For the "D*mn it Martha, that plant's gotta earn a living!",
  go for the Nepenthes family.

  Finally, for the "My one's bigger than your one", Tetrastigma 
  voinierianum.

  Of course, _real men_ (tm) would grow all of them. =:)

--
lynx@wanganui.gen.nz


From linus@xs4all.nl Mon Mar  6 10:33:42 EST 1995
Article: 55232 of rec.gardens
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From: linus <linus@xs4all.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Climate zone's in US
Date: 18 Feb 1995 22:29:31 GMT
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Can anyone explain the climate zone's in the US? How many zone's are 
there, where are they located and how are they defined? 
In Europe the climate's are named after area's (mediteranean-, land- 
or seaclimate etc.).
I often read interesting things in this newsgroup, but it could be a 
lot more intersting when would understand what these climate zone's 
are.

Thanks.

Alexandra van Tongeren (linus@xs4all.nl)



From mtiffany Mon Mar  6 10:33:43 EST 1995
Article: 55233 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!port28.ventura.rain.org!user
From: mtiffany (Michael Tiffany)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 21:31:45 -0800
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
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Distribution: world
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References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
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Please, let's keep rec.gardens as one big happy family. I enjoy the
variety, and I think that we will all lose if the group is splintered.

Good gardening!

Stephanie Tiffany


From rsherry271@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:47 EST 1995
Article: 55234 of rec.gardens
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From: rsherry271@aol.com (RSherry271)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need help in measuring soil Ph
Date: 15 Feb 1995 23:09:41 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Have you tried your local Cooperative extension office or your state
university? It's usually under $10 per test, quite accurate for any crop
and comes with reccomendations for nutrient and liming needs. Not many
test tubes and electronic probes I know of can do that. If you are not
sure of your CE office. Email me with the name of the county you live in
and maybe one or two neighboring counties. Also your state. I can send
your addresses and phone #'s.
Rosanne Sherry

"Dogs come when called, cats take a message and get back to you".


From smeagol@midland.co.nz Mon Mar  6 10:33:48 EST 1995
Article: 55235 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!ames!waikato!news.midland.co.nz!midland.co.nz!smeagol
From: smeagol@midland.co.nz (Neil Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Please don't flame me
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:26:31 GMT
Organization: Midland Internet Limited - Hamilton, New Zealand
Lines: 24
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L. R. Fortney (LRFORTNEY@hep.phy.duke.edu) wrote:
: In article <3i2r3d$cmm@cobia.gulf.net>, macsusn@gulf.net (Shelley
: Carpenter) wrote:

: > Hi all,
: > 
: > I'm fairly new to this group and have just been lurking, BUT, I have to 
: > speak out on the reorganization.
: > 
: > For me, it would be easier if there were two groups, one for vegetable 
: > gardens and one for flowers/shrubs etc.  
: > 
:    I agree completely, but the last time I tried to inject this bit of
: reason it went nowhere.

: -- 
: Lloyd Fortney ---Opinions, just opinions---

I also agree, even though I am primarily against splitting rec.gardens.  
This just makes much more sense to me.  Maybe we should be considering a 
split which would end up with larger groups than being currently 
proposed, but seems more logical.  Comments?

Tania.


From Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:33:49 EST 1995
Article: 55236 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk (Martin Tom Brown)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!nezumi.demon.co.uk!Martin
Subject: Re: Indoor problem: mealybugs on hoya
References: <3hrl48$pqh@infoserver.bgsu.edu> <3i08bk$bog@news.rain.org>
Organization: Myorganisation
Reply-To: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk
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In article <3i08bk$bog@news.rain.org> sals@rain.org "
" writes:

> I'm always fighting mealybug and looking for organic way to beat those 
> mealybug back. On my fruit trees they turn the fruit black.   Let me know if 
> someone comes up with a good idea.

I'm curious as a cactus and succulent grower I sometimes have problems with
mealy bug and generally use a powerful pesticide (malathion) to control it.
Choice is limited because the plants mark very easily with some pesticides.

Some folk claim to be able to control mealy with a concoction of
Safers' soap in water and Isopropyl alcohol - have tried it?
Does it work for you? For me it just gives cleaner mealy bugs. YMMV

Regards,
-- 
Martin Brown  <martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk>     __                CIS: 71651,470
Scientific Software Consultancy             /^,,)__/


From Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:33:50 EST 1995
Article: 55237 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk (Martin Tom Brown)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!nezumi.demon.co.uk!Martin
Subject: Re: Thompson & Morgan
References: <D41zz3.M78@lcpd2.SanDiegoCA.ATTGIS.COM>
Organization: Myorganisation
Reply-To: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk
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In article <D41zz3.M78@lcpd2.SanDiegoCA.ATTGIS.COM>
           first.last@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM "Your Name" writes:

> I just received the Thompson & Morgan catalog.  It's the most extensive 
> selection I've ever seen!  Does anyone have any experience with them?  Quality 
> of seeds/plants, etc.
> 
> Their phone number, by the way, is (908)363-2225.

T&M are great, and their seed is mostly very reliable. 
Never tried their plants but I would expect them to be OK too.

Chiltern Seeds has an even bigger range, but their catalogue has no pictures
just names of species and short descriptions of each. They are also UK based.
Prices are slightly cheaper in the UK, but I don't know if there's a US side.
	Tel: +44 (1229) 581137    Fax: +44 (1229) 584549

Hope this helps.
Regards,
-- 
Martin Brown  <martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk>     __                CIS: 71651,470
Scientific Software Consultancy             /^,,)__/


From spudnik1@bev.net Mon Mar  6 10:33:52 EST 1995
Article: 55238 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.bluesky.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!usenet
From: spudnik1@bev.net (spudnik1)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: overwintering
Date: 18 Feb 1995 23:01:59 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia
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I read somewhere (I can't recall where) that snapdragons are perennial in tropical climates. Due to this fall's warm temperatures, some of the ones I had in my floral border survived into December. Idecided to take a chance and potted some of the nicer on
es and brought them inside. Of the four plants I brought in, one is wilting, two are just fine, and one has grown about two inches taller but has been infested bu aphids. I have been using dishsoap to control the pests and it seems to be working. I'm just
 wondering if I'm wasting my time or if I'll get more growth and flowers once I can replant these outside.


From dahlia75@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:54 EST 1995
Article: 55239 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: dahlia75@aol.com (DAHLIA75)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Any good producing snap peas
Date: 18 Feb 1995 17:52:54 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Calvin Lamborn, the breeder, indicated that he thought the best producer
was Sugar Mel, I'd concur. They are all named after his daughters.
Available from Pinetree Garden Seeds Box 300, New Gloucester, ME 04260. 95
cents for 2Oz. Pack plus $1.25 shipping.


From gabrielle@hypnos.norden1.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:56 EST 1995
Article: 55240 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!gabrielle
From: gabrielle@hypnos.norden1.com (Gabrielle)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Any butterfly gardeners out there?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:27:08 GMT
Organization: Norden 1 Communications
Lines: 12
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There is a neat www site called Monarch Watch! Set your pointer to:

http://129.237.247.134//

I'm not sure my syntax is correct, but the numbers are! You will
really find some neat stuff there! Guaranteed! I just discovered
it a week ago myself!

Gabrielle

--
 


From rcase@rt66.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:58 EST 1995
Article: 55241 of rec.gardens
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From: rcase@rt66.com (Roger Case )
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Save my Bonsai!
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 01:16:56 GMT
Organization: Engineering International
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In article <19950218.7B04240.7EBC@msbbs.com> revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans) writes:
.snip...

>Are you sure it's an evergreen Bonsai?  I watched a show once that
>featured a deciduous bonsai and was astonished.  I had always thought of
>bonsai as being done to evergreen trees.   (BTW:  Is bonsai a noun or a
>verb or both?)


Bonsai is (mis)used as both a nouna and a verb -- and it s captialized 
sometimes, and sometimes its not  -- for a better discussion of the topic of 
bonsai, read rec.arts.bonsai.



Roger


From epur01@email.mot.com Mon Mar  6 10:33:59 EST 1995
Article: 55242 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!fl08ara029.comm.mot.com!user
From: epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns)
Subject: Operculicarya decaryii
Organization: MOTOROLA 
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 17:42:58 -0500
Message-ID: <epur01-1802951742580001@fl08ara029.comm.mot.com>
Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (SCHBBS News Account)
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Can anyone steer me to a horticultural reference on Operculicarya
decaryii, a miniature tree?  I saw this little tree at a friend's place
today, and he is looking for any information available.  No reference to
the genus shows up in Hortus or Heywood.
Thanks!

-- 
Don Burns                         | Motorola E-Mail: epur01
Motorola Inc.                     |     Internet:epur01@email.mot.com
North American Radio Systems Divn |          Voice: 305-723-5518
Plantation, FL  U.S.A.            |            Fax: 305-723-4343
            
X.400: /c=us/admd=attmail/prmd=motorola/g=don/s=burns/ddt=id/ddv=epur01/


From desidia@community.net Mon Mar  6 10:34:00 EST 1995
Article: 55243 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgiblab!news.cygnus.com!news.zeitgeist.net!odin.community.net!odin.community.net!not-for-mail
From: desidia@community.net (Gloria Mercado-Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: CATS how do I keep 'em out!
Date: 18 Feb 1995 23:37:00 -0800
Organization: Access InfoSystems
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Distribution: world
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I've heard that if a human male takes a leak every now and then in the 
yard, the cats will keep out.  The person that told me swears by this 
method.

Gloria 

-- 
		"Had I been present at the creation, 
		I would have given some useful hints 
		for the better ordering of the Universe"
				Alfonso X El Sabio (1221-1284)


From thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Mon Mar  6 10:34:02 EST 1995
Article: 55244 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.kei.com!world!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.sas.ab.ca!freenet.edmonton.ab.ca!thacker
From: thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hot Pepper Plant Problems.
Date: 19 Feb 1995 10:02:06 GMT
Organization: Edmonton Freenet, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3i74uu$2rv@news.sas.ab.ca>
References: <D3nr0H.55E@freenet.carleton.ca> <3hub27$aag@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3hvp3p$ol4@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>
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Mark Donald Heiser (heiser@wam.umd.edu) wrote:
: SMarmonkac (smarmonkac@aol.com) wrote:
: : yield the first year. Nasturtiums planted as companions help retard pests.
:                         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

:  Really?  I've only planted nasturtiums once and in my experience
:  they were nothing but aphid magnets which is why I list them as
:  one of my most hated plants ... but that's another thread. :-)
:  I've never had any plant get so infested. Of course, if aphids
:  aren't a problem with peppers, I guess that wouldn't be a problem.

That's the point of companion planting.  You plant a companion plant 
that the bugs absolutely love...they infest the companion plant big 
time, and leave your peppers alone.  (Some other companion plants 
retard bugs by scent or whatever, and hopefully retard them from the 
area that includes your desired plants also.)

Don


From thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Mon Mar  6 10:34:03 EST 1995
Article: 55245 of rec.gardens
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From: thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Disaster: Novice plants seeds to save money...help !!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 10:09:56 GMT
Organization: Edmonton Freenet, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3i75dk$2rv@news.sas.ab.ca>
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: Yes, they're warm on a window sill, but I did not pre-moisten the soil. It was kinda
:  wet anyway, having been in a plastic bag. I did
: cover them at about 1/4". The packet instructions are so vague.  It is hard to 
: keep them moist. Should I cover them in plastic wrap after I water them next ?
: I've been spraying them with a water bottle, but this takes a long time. And 
: they dry out after one day with just spraying them.

Cover them with plastic wrap until they begin to germinate (have them 
moist but not wet before you cover the soil)...Saran wrap or equivalent 
works well...you might want to punch in a few airholes, but I generally 
just cover them loosely so airholes aren't needed.  Depending on the type 
of seed you are growing and the conditions, germination could take 
anywhere from 3 days to 3 or 4 weeks.

Don


From greyhawk@greyhawk.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:34:05 EST 1995
Article: 55246 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!demon!news
From: Graham Hawker <greyhawk@greyhawk.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Robot Lawnmower
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: greyhawk.demon.co.uk
Message-ID: <D485qE.DLs@demon.co.uk>
Sender: news@demon.co.uk (Usenet Administration)
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At last! As a hayfever sufferer my worst job is cutting the lawn.
I noticed on a Web page (http://mmm.wwa.com/elux/elt4.html) that a robot lawnmower has been invented
that cruises your lawn all summer powered by solar energy. I wonder if this will ever
see the light of day :-)


From htm@max.tiac.net Mon Mar  6 10:34:07 EST 1995
Article: 55247 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!eff!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!max.tiac.net!htm
From: htm@max.tiac.net (HTM)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Address needed
Date: 19 Feb 1995 05:58:27 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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Does anyone know the address of Piedmont Co. in Georgia? They sell 
live plants, mainly vegetables. I have bought from them before, but for 
some strange reason they put neither their address nor their telephone 
number in their catalogue. It is only on the order form; and I never 
bothered to mark it down.

Seraphim



From randim@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:08 EST 1995
Article: 55248 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!satisfied.elf.com!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: randim@delphi.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: picking tomato seeds (Burpee Catalog)
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 95 21:18:45 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 2
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X-To: Jeff Stier <jstier@yu1.yu.edu>
Status: O
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I've had excellent results for years with big boys and better
girls. I'm growing in SE Pennsylvania.


From barryg@haven.ios.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:09 EST 1995
Article: 55249 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!ankh.iia.org!haven.ios.com!barryg
From: barryg@haven.ios.com (barry glick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: 10,000 different Hardy Plants!!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:36:16 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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From barryg@haven.ios.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:11 EST 1995
Article: 55250 of rec.gardens
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From: barryg@haven.ios.com (barry glick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: help
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:37:52 GMT
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From barryg@haven.ios.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:13 EST 1995
Article: 55251 of rec.gardens
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From: barryg@haven.ios.com (barry glick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: q
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:41:49 GMT
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From barryg@haven.ios.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:14 EST 1995
Article: 55252 of rec.gardens
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From: barryg@haven.ios.com (barry glick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: q
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:42:19 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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From hbedu014@huey.csun.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:15 EST 1995
Article: 55253 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csun.edu!hbedu014
From: hbedu014@huey.csun.edu (lynn vavra)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: White/silver garden ideas
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:40:54 GMT
Organization: California State University, Northridge
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3i67j6$iqb@dewey.csun.edu>
References: <1995Feb17.141302.15512@olaf.wellesley.edu> <D47GvJ.BqF@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
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Boyd  Zenner (bz2v@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU) wrote:
> linda@annie.wellesley.edu  writes:
> > (snip)
> > 
> > (snip)
I have a raised bed under shade, & I planted caladiums & impatiens last
year to catch the full moon every month.  It was beautiful & ethereal,
especially at night when it just basked in the moonbeams!  It will be back
again this year, by popular demand.                               Lynn


From DOVETAIL@news.delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:17 EST 1995
Article: 55254 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!news2.delphi.com!not-for-mail
From: DOVETAIL@news.delphi.com (DOVETAIL@DELPHI.COM)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: advice on growing hops?
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:32:30 -0500
Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation
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Keywords: hops,
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We want to grow hops in our small yard. We're not sure where the best 
place is to grow them -- up a wall or a trellis. Also, are there kinds 
that grow well in central Massachusetts?


From nfeasey@ibm.net Mon Mar  6 10:34:18 EST 1995
Article: 55255 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news
From: nfeasey@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: re:  mealy  bug infestation on plants
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:31:15 GMT
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i am having a problem with a tenacious mealy bug infestation.  i keep using 
safers insecticidal soap and some other insecticides but they always come back
i have a beautiful hoya that is difficult to clean.  i have also tried methilated
spirits, rubbing alcohol to no avail.  any ideas? i would appreciate any help. 
thankyou.    

salome


From gabrielle@hypnos.norden1.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:19 EST 1995
Article: 55256 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!gabrielle
From: gabrielle@hypnos.norden1.com (Gabrielle)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: chipper/clipper/shredder
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:47:20 GMT
Organization: Norden 1 Communications
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3i67v8$l1f@ns.oar.net>
References: <3hr0c6$j56@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <klebba.11.0009F9B1@nicolet.com>
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Our local "Sam's Club" has an MTD chipper/shredder that I have
almost purchased several times! :) Now that our community has
started a yard refuse program, I figure this would be a worthwhile
item to get.

Any thoughts on MTD stuff? I have a mower and a great rear-tine
tiller from MTD, and have been pleased with both.

Gaby

--
 


From rev4u2c@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:21 EST 1995
Article: 55257 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rev4u2c@aol.com (Rev4u2c)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: rec.gardens.organic...Opinions??
Date: 19 Feb 1995 06:30:48 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 10
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3i7a58$2m7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91c.950210101612.61089C-100000@homer22.u.washington
Reply-To: rev4u2c@aol.com (Rev4u2c)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Opinions are like dirty socks everyboby has a one ( or 2).  
This is my first experience with newsgroup.  I had a very hard time trying
to find subjects.  I first tried horticulture, then perinniels, then
flowers, then gardening.  My husband then tried my favorite roses.  As a
fairly new gardener I hope to glean any information from the many seasoned
gardeners.  With this hunger for knowledge I have spent the last 4 hrs.
reading.  Good information, but wouldn't it be easier for rookies to
digest if it was sectioned?  

Either way i'm glad I found you !


From thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Mon Mar  6 10:34:22 EST 1995
Article: 55258 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.kei.com!world!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.sas.ab.ca!freenet.edmonton.ab.ca!thacker
From: thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Jewelweed
Date: 19 Feb 1995 10:17:34 GMT
Organization: Edmonton Freenet, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Lines: 22
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <3i75ru$2vb@news.sas.ab.ca>
References: <3h6kk4$f4p@morrow.stanford.edu> <1995Feb8.141805.5384@leo.vsla.edu> <D46FML.pCE@ns1.nodak.edu>
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David R Givers (givers@badlands.NoDak.edu) wrote:
: Bess Haile (bhaile@leo.vsla.edu) wrote:
: : I have a lot of jewelweeds growing in my marsh and along the
: : streams.  Last year I collected some for soneone on the net.
: :  I will
: : gather seeds for anyone interested in me sending them

:  There are two concerns I would like folks to consider regarding the 
: harvest of wild species.  Most books that (reponsibly IMO) promote native 
: species propogation caution against gathering from  wild populations on 
: general principles of conservation.  Most/many ecologists will also 
: caution shipping or transfering species outside their own ecotype or 
: phenotype.  In other words there is some concern for human activity 
: altering natural selection of what should be wild populations.

I would agree with this comment for any invasive type of plant such as 
purple loosestrife.  But jewelweed is a rather mundane plant, not 
invasive, and it grows well with other wetland species, doesn't choke 
them out.  So I doubt that offering jewelweed seeds is going to have any 
impact on any environment whatsoever.

Don


From rev4u2c@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:23 EST 1995
Article: 55259 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rev4u2c@aol.com (Rev4u2c)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 'Garden in Time' New 3D software FREE for testers
Date: 19 Feb 1995 04:56:02 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3i74ji$2db@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3hqtja$iic@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: rev4u2c@aol.com (Rev4u2c)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Hi !  I would like to try your software as a tester.  I have only been
gardening a short time, which also means I have alot to learn.  I have 3D
Landscape that I like for the database of over 400 plants.   I'm hooked, I
find gardening very fulfiling. The best thing is Hubby enjoys also.  I
have a AST 486SX/25 that is with me always.  I am located in zone 7 (Md). 


From barryg@haven.ios.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:25 EST 1995
Article: 55260 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!ankh.iia.org!haven.ios.com!barryg
From: barryg@haven.ios.com (barry glick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: 10,000 Hardy Plants!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 01:59:36 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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NNTP-Posting-Host: haven.ios.com
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From jrwoodworth@mmm.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:26 EST 1995
Article: 55261 of rec.gardens
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From: jrwoodworth@mmm.com (John Woodworth)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Robins!
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 09:53:01
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In article <3i2la2$ltn@pandora.sdsu.edu> pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu (Pat) writes:
>From: pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu (Pat)
>Subject: Re: Robins!
>Date: 17 Feb 1995 17:10:24 GMT

>Menk, Donna (donna_menk@radian.com) wrote:
>: Spring can't be too far behind--my front yard has been full of robins
>: this week! (I'm in Austin, Texas.)

>: Donna

>I remember what Robins look like.  Red breast, right?

Hey, this morning I heard meadowlarks. They're back! The end of Winter in 
Minnesota is nigh!

John


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Imitation is the sincerest form of parody."

                         Richard Corliss
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From philseib@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:27 EST 1995
Article: 55262 of rec.gardens
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From: philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:53:05 -0500
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Garden Database...  I have begun something similar - but using Filemaker
Pro (MAC, but runs on MAC-Wannabees as well).  Tedious and time
consuming...  I can appreciate anyone who has accomplished this before and
would also be quite willing to  buy one when found...

Anyone else out there????

Phil


From diveanddig@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:28 EST 1995
Article: 55263 of rec.gardens
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From: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Thompson & Morgan
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:55:11 -0500
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M&T = Overpriced seed, small quantites, and if you order some of the less
popular seeds, they will not be very fresh and will not germinate well.  I
wish they would date the seed packets.  I have tried them twice and have
had very poor results on some of the more exotic seeds. I have been
starting almost everything from seed for the past 25 years.   Other
suppliers of the same seed have had much better germination.  This opinion
is shared by many in my gardening club.  Parks and Stokes have better
quality and larger portions  for much less money.

Bill Bird


From philseib@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:30 EST 1995
Article: 55264 of rec.gardens
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From: philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: 18 Feb 1995 20:59:07 -0500
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GANTT chart can be created in EXCEL by using stacking bar chart format,
using first data column (in spreadsheet) for elapsed time from a start
date (such as January 1st) and then setting this first fill pattern in the
chart to "none" so that it becomes invisible...

I use this format in interior design/architecture practice for project
scheduling...

Good luck!

Phil


From bgoogle@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:31 EST 1995
Article: 55265 of rec.gardens
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From: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Ryobi Tiller
Date: 18 Feb 1995 21:04:20 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I just got some info in the mail about a Ryobi Tiller.  It is small, about
21 lb.  It is designed differently from, say, the Mantis, in that the
motor is high up on the handles rather than down by the tines.  I wonder
if anyone has seen or used these and what the experience was?  Thanks for
any info.


From kai202@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:33 EST 1995
Article: 55266 of rec.gardens
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From: kai202@aol.com (KAI202)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: rec.gardens.organic...Opinions??
Date: 19 Feb 1995 06:47:59 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I vote for organic gardening tips and help to stay on this list.  We need
to inform people of the great benefits of organic gardening.


From kai202@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:34 EST 1995
Article: 55267 of rec.gardens
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From: kai202@aol.com (KAI202)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Used Gardening Books Sale
Date: 19 Feb 1995 06:51:20 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Pllease mail to me your catalog of used gardening books.  Thanking you in
advance.

Caroline B. Armstrong
6 North Russell St.
Milton Ma 02186 


From tlharvey@omnifest.uwm.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:35 EST 1995
Article: 55268 of rec.gardens
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From: tlharvey@omnifest.uwm.edu (Terry L. Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: hydroponics
Date: 19 Feb 1995 00:55:52 -0600
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My daughter is doing a science project on HYDROPONICS.  If anyone has any
information or any idea where I might find info, please email me.

Thank you.

tlharvey@omnifest.uwm.edu


From lily4me@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:37 EST 1995
Article: 55269 of rec.gardens
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From: lily4me@aol.com (LILY 4 ME)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SNOW'S ON THE WAY! how to protect bulbs?
Date: 18 Feb 1995 21:27:34 -0500
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Do your bulbs actually have flower buds on them?  If not you don't have
any problem.  If you do have buds you should protect your bulbs with a
floating row cover, a thick layer of mulch or anything else to keep those
buds from freezing.  I like floating row covers because they are easy to
remove.


From kai202@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:38 EST 1995
Article: 55270 of rec.gardens
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From: kai202@aol.com (KAI202)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: plant hormones
Date: 19 Feb 1995 06:58:34 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Has any body heard of Spray and Grow?  I used it for 2 years and found
that it 
worked remarkably.  Last year I began to question the safety of using a
product that fools around with Mother Nature.  I would love any info on
this.  
Please e-mail me at Kai202@aol.com. 


From dueck@access.mbnet.mb.ca Mon Mar  6 10:34:39 EST 1995
Article: 55271 of rec.gardens
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From: dueck@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Kelly Dueck)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Indoor Veggies: light question
Date: 19 Feb 1995 07:08:38 GMT
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As a general rule plants do not thrive on more than 18 hours of 
artificial light. Keep your grow lights about 2 inches above the plants.

K. Dueck



From kathy.floritto@sasquat.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:41 EST 1995
Article: 55272 of rec.gardens
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From: kathy.floritto@sasquat.com (KATHY FLORITTO)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Message-ID: <8A3A214.102100167F.uuout@sasquat.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 95 08:52:00 -0800
Distribution: world
Organization: Sasquatch BBS, Terrace, BC, Canada, (604) 635-2184
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SM|>In article <19950208.7AEA3B0.1337B#msbbs.com>, revans@msbbs.com (Ruth
  |>Evans) wrote:
  |>
  |>> This may be a strange topic, but what is your least liked plant?  What
  |>> plant that with the mere mention of it makes you want to head for the
  |>> round-up or wish that you could add every last one of them to the
  |>> compost pile?

     
     Comfrey.  I used to think it was "runaway mint" (you know - the 
kind you forget to put a header around when you stick it in the 
ground), but Comfrey beats that by a country mile.

                              KATHY

 * 1st 2.00b #3640 * Kathy.Floritto@Sasquat.com


From kathy.floritto@sasquat.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:42 EST 1995
Article: 55273 of rec.gardens
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From: kathy.floritto@sasquat.com (KATHY FLORITTO)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SIBERIAN ELMS THRIVE IN SHADE???????
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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 95 09:02:00 -0800
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MG|In article <3hnqfi$1kj@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, delacorte@aol.com
  |(Delacorte) wrote:

MG|>    I would like to plant a hedge in a fairly shady location, that will
  |> grow as quickly as possible.  A seed catalog I have from the Burgess
  |> company claims that their Siberian Elm will thrive even in the shade. The
  |> Gurney catalog I have claims the Chinese Elm (which I'm told is simply
  |> another name for the Siberian) needs full sunlight.  Which is correct?  Is

MG|Siberian Elms and Chinese Elms are names applied by people to a group of
  |Elms from S.E. Asia.  Unfortunately I see alot of intermixing of these

MG|experience they can survive diffuse shade but certainly not complete
  |shading.  They will do best in good sunlight.  Check with your local

     Is Siberian Elm susceptible to the same disease as is the Chinese 
Elm?  This nasty piece of work has nearly wiped out the entire C. Elm 
population of several areas in N. America - and although I heard that a 
new variety of the Chinese type that is resistant to the problem, I'm 
guessing that the easily defeated type is still plentiful from 
nurseries and neighbors with cuttings.

                              KATHY

 * 1st 2.00b #3640 * Kathy.Floritto@Sasquat.com






From joan@scs.unr.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:44 EST 1995
Article: 55274 of rec.gardens
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From: joan@scs.unr.edu (Joan Rowe)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: gardening in Missoula
Date: 17 Feb 1995 21:28:53 GMT
Organization: University of Nevada, Reno
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Hi,

If there are any gardeners from Missoula, Montana (or nearby places) I'd like to 
know a little about it.  Right now I'm gardening in zone 5 (South Lake Tahoe) 
with short summers and cool summer nights (Never above 50).  This means that 
things like tomatoes and melons are TOUGH to grow.  Can I expect the same sort 
of conditions in Missoula?

Thanks for any info,
Joan


From cowens@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:34:45 EST 1995
Article: 55275 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: tomatoes in container? How deep?
Date: 16 Feb 1995 08:09:01 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3hv16t$87c@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
References: <D40n3B.EpI@ccc.amdahl.com> <3ht6r6$huj@dsk92.itg.ti.com> <3htf9t$s42@morrow.stanford.edu>
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Sounds like root-knot nematodes to me.  Try growing your
tomatoes somewhere else for a couple os seasons.

Good luck.

Chris Owens


True.  However, the SF Bay Area seems to be rife with soil-borne 
>diseases, like Fusarium and Verticilium wilts, Nematodes, etc.  
>
>I have never had any luck at all with tomatoes here.  They grow
>like gangbusters for the first half of the season, set tons of 
>fruit, then sort of wither away from the top down, and the fruit
>are small, hard and tough-skinned.  I grow only varieties that
>are resistant to everything on earth, but they still do 
>badly.  Anyone know what the problem might be?  (I dug up
>the plants at the end of the season, and the roots seemed 
>kind of knotty.  (They knotted up at the base of the stem
>but sent out a few nice, undeformed long roots as well.)
>
>Dawn in Palo Alto, CA
>
>




From jkl2@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:48 EST 1995
Article: 55276 of rec.gardens
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From: jkl2@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (James Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Deer are killing my yard!
Date: 15 Feb 1995 20:28:24 -0500
Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net
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Message-ID: <3hu9no$h3i@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>
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: --
: You guys here may find this amusing... I am CAREFULLY reading these
: posts in hopes that I will find SOMETHING I can plant to ATTRACT deer
: to my yard!!! :)

: I know, I'm hopeless! I am a very inexperienced gardener. Totally brown
: thumb. I am useless.

: I figure maybe I can at least attract deer.

: ;)
: gabrielle


How to attract deer:  Plant something you _don't_ want them to eat.
-- 
Jim Lewis - jkl2@freenet.scri.fsu.edu
 . . . Without ecology . . . there would _be_ no economy.



From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Mon Mar  6 10:34:49 EST 1995
Article: 55277 of rec.gardens
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Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman)
From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman)
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 00:07:33 GMT
Subject: Re: chipper/clipper/shredder
Lines: 27
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I recently bought a yardman 8hp chipper/shredder.  I paid 460.00
new for it.  A large chain is going out of business here and i got
it 25% off of 580.00 price.  It does very well.  I have chipped a
very large pile of brush and pine straw down to a nice
mulch/dirt.  It is loud - I have hearing protectors.  The discharge
chute is a little small so stuff has a tendency to clog especially
if wet.  But alot of chippers have problems with wet material.  I
have chipped pine trees that are 3 inches across and it takes them
fine.  It has a bag to chip the stuff into which is nice so that
stuff doesnt blow all over the place.  Although the irish setter
loves to chase the blowing debris!  I have waited for quite awhile
for a chipper I dont think this machine is as good as a troy bilt
or kemp but it does a very good job for me and for under 500 it is
pretty hard to beat.  I did find out later after I had bought the
machine that troy bilt sells reconditioned equipement.  I do not
know if this is true but you might want to check that out as
well. 


  In article <3hr0c6$j56@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
Norikon (norikon@aol.com) writes: >I'm looking for 8hp chipper
clipper shredder all in one with the price >range of $500 to 1.000. I
collected all the literatures and visited some >dealers but I've been
indecisive. I would appreciate any story of your own >experience.
>We have a big yard with so many big and small trees and also incredibly
>many wild blackberries to whack all Summer long.
>



From jdtruss @ island.net Mon Mar  6 10:34:52 EST 1995
Article: 55278 of rec.gardens
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From: jdtruss @ island.net (John D. Truss)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Indoor problem: mealybugs on hoya
Date: 19 Feb 1995 07:38:04 GMT
Organization: Island Internet
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In article <792842754snz@nezumi.demon.co.uk>, Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk (Martin Tom Brown) says:
>
>In article <3hrl48$pqh@infoserver.bgsu.edu>
>           kenr@bgnet.bgsu.edu "Kenneth A Robb" writes:
> 
>> I guess those beautiful streptocarpus I bought a couple years ago came 
>> from a bad source--they brought along a mealybug infestation and despite 
>> everything I could do--touching each with an alcohol-soaked Q-tip, soap 
>> bath, even (groan)spray (rotenone) and then a systemic--they killed off the 
>> streptocarpus, then spread to a ten+ year old hoya.  I've tried the same 
>> things and nothing seems to stop them.  You know how tight the leaves 
>> grow to the stems on hoyas, so it's almost impossible to reach them all 
>> with a Q-tip.  The systemics I've used smell but don't work.  Any 
>> suggestions? 
>
>It's always worth quarantine of new plants for a while to check for latent
>pests - especially mealy and red spider (which are common in greenhouses).
>
>Since you now have a problem - I'd suggest using malathion outside, and
>spray at least 3 times at two week intervals to kill them as they hatch.
>It usually works for me (on cacti), but some plants may mark. 
>
>If you are more organically inclined, Safer's soap & a trace of alcohol
>is supposed to work too (for me it just gives clean mealy bugs). YMMV
>
>Hope this helps.
>Regards,
>-- 
>Martin Brown  <martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk>     __                CIS: 71651,470
>Scientific Software Consultancy             /^,,)__/


I'm very new at the Internet and so I hope this article has the correct 
headings etc. 
 
I have a very old Hoya carnosa that became infested with mealy bug
 and the only thing that seemed to work was a continued treatment of 
Orthene (acephate) sprays at 10 day intervals for a month.  
It is very smelly, but has a relatively low toxicity and is systemic.  
Hope this is of some help.

John D. Truss



From dueck@access.mbnet.mb.ca Mon Mar  6 10:34:54 EST 1995
Article: 55279 of rec.gardens
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From: dueck@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Kelly Dueck)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Date: 19 Feb 1995 07:24:45 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
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In <3hrn5r$o8l@newsbf02.news.aol.com> clnichols@aol.com (CLNichols) writes:

>I don't mind if some projects are over my budget or unrealistic for my 
lifestyle because many generate ideas and are educational if nothing else.


I too have only recently discovered Martha Stewart's show and I agree 
that it is an excellent idea generator. So what if many of the projects 
are beyond the budget of most viewers. Most of the things Martha does on 
the show are interesting and creative. At least I can TRY to apply a new 
idea or two to my situation. It's fun!

Kelly Dueck



From hbedu014@huey.csun.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:55 EST 1995
Article: 55280 of rec.gardens
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From: hbedu014@huey.csun.edu (lynn vavra)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: <ad> GUARANTEED CREDIT REPAIR BY LAW FIRM
Date: 16 Feb 1995 07:51:09 GMT
Organization: California State University, Northridge
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Spam spam spam spam spam spam spam spam spam!


From hbedu014@huey.csun.edu Mon Mar  6 10:34:57 EST 1995
Article: 55281 of rec.gardens
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From: hbedu014@huey.csun.edu (lynn vavra)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SNOW'S ON THE WAY! how to protect bulbs?
Date: 16 Feb 1995 07:55:47 GMT
Organization: California State University, Northridge
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Going off the (original) point a bit, but I too was upset that the
squirrel ate my bulbs, until my cat ate the squirrel...      Lynn.


From blkorbe@srv.PacBell.COM Mon Mar  6 10:34:58 EST 1995
Article: 55282 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!pacbell.com!blkorbe
From: blkorbe@srv.PacBell.COM (Brian Korbelik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: <ad> GUARANTEED CREDIT REPAIR BY LAW FIRM
Date: 17 Feb 1995 20:48:53 GMT
Organization: Pacific * Bell
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In article <7753-174433604@mcube.com>,  <rshiell@mcube.com> wrote:
>
>(To the tune of Monty Python's Spam Song:
>
>Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam,
>Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam.
>
>--
>Mainframes, Minis & Micros     |     Desert Jewel BBS & Online Mall
>5630 District Blvd.   #114     |     Telnet to 204.212.36.4
>Bakersfield, CA      93313     |     FTP to 204.212.36.4
>LandLine  ==  800-949-1959     |     WWW to http:\\www@204.212.36.4


EVERYBODY SING!!!! SPAM! WONDERFUL SPAM!!!!

Would you like the spam, spam, spam, eggs and spam or the.....


Brian Korbelik


"He's NOT the Messiah, he's a very naughty boy!"
			-Monty Python "Life of Brian"







From ggawron@comm.mot.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:03 EST 1995
Article: 55283 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: <HELP> info needed on strange plant/bulb
Organization: Motorola
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 08:48:20
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Last year, my grandmother gave me a bunch of bulbs that she 
called "stink lillies".  She gave me an article that describes 
the plant as :

"The voodoo plant or Sacred Lily of India as it sometimes is called, is 
seldom obtainable except from someone who got it from someone, etc., willing 
to share some offshoots from the bulb from which this strange plant grows. "

"The voodoo plant is a remarkable member of the calla family that will 
bloom without soil, indoors in winter.  A bulb forgotten on the basement 
workbench or on a shelf will send up a tall, purplish brown stem from which 
will emerge a calla-lillylike spathe--a really handsome flower but with an 
almost offending odor"

"After flowering, and when the weather turns warm, the bulb can be planted 
in a shaded, sheltered spot in the garden and here it will suprise you again 
by developing into a plant that resembles a palm tree.  During the summer 
sojurn in the garden, the bulb develops the offshoots for new plants.  
Technically, the plant is known as Ilydrosome rivieri."

I currently have about 50 bulbs the largest of which is 10-12" across.  The 
stem right now is about 4 1/2 feet tall and the flower is an additional 
1 1/2 feet tall.  I have wrapped and taped a plastic bag around the flower 
as it has started to stink.  My questions are :
1.  Will cutting the stem off at the flower hurt the bulb?
2.  Is the plastic bag hurting the plant?
3.  if anyone has any more information on this beautiful plant, I would 
greatly appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks in advance!
-Glenn
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>> Disclaimer-Opinions expressed are those of the sender NOT Motorola <<


From ek912@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:04 EST 1995
Article: 55284 of rec.gardens
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From: ek912@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michael John Francis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: variations in scientific names
Date: 16 Feb 1995 10:37:07 GMT
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Hi all - can someone give me any examplesof deviations from scientific names
i.e. a plant that has more than one 'common/local' name?

Replies to francism1@rsc.org

Thanks in advance for your help.

Michael John Francis


From bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:05 EST 1995
Article: 55285 of rec.gardens
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From: bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: use of dormant spray on plum trees in AZ
Date: 19 Feb 1995 07:10:56 -0800
Organization: GINA and CORE+ Services of The California State University
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BGreen1229 (bgreen1229@aol.com) wrote:
: i have spoken to two "experts" about using dormant spray and received two
: diametrically oppossed answers.  

: should i or shouldn't i? ( and if so when?)

: thanks for the help.
	I can't imagine any harm being done by it; I did read your 
earlier posting. Dormant spraying can prevent problems with overwintering 
pests and fungus diseases. In your climate, fungus diseases aren't as 
much a problem, I imagine, but there may still be insects, mites, etc. 
that could be curtailed with a dormant spray. 
	Dormant sprays in this region re recommended for three 
applications. With a longer growing season, your spraying schedule could 
be different (or do you have a longer growing season... high desert.... 
hmmm....) We spray with copper when the leaves fall, about Thanksgiving. 
This would be mixed with a spreader sticker and might also include a 
horticultural oil spray. Around Christmas during a dry spell, we'd spray 
with lime sulfur and oil. Our last spray would come around February with 
copper or oil/sulfur  If the buds have begund to break out, everything is 
off until next year. Of course, dormant spraying is for deciduous fruit 
trees.
	Most peiople who advocate growing orgaically go along with some 
dormant spraying. The sprays are relatively harmless and are sprayed when 
there is no fruit on the tree. you avoid the heavier duty spraying you 
might have to do later.
	Your local County Agriculture office/Cooperative Extension should 
be able to give you the authoritative answers for dormant spraying. 
They may have delegated this responsibility to a knowledgeable Master 
Gardener, but the answer would be apropriate to your conditions and 
calendar; something you will probably not find on the Internet.
Bruce Moon 
Rio Linda, CA


From bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:07 EST 1995
Article: 55286 of rec.gardens
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From: bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Ryobi Tiller
Date: 19 Feb 1995 07:14:46 -0800
Organization: GINA and CORE+ Services of The California State University
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B GOOGLE (bgoogle@aol.com) wrote:
: I just got some info in the mail about a Ryobi Tiller.  It is small, about
: 21 lb.  It is designed differently from, say, the Mantis, in that the
: motor is high up on the handles rather than down by the tines.  I wonder
: if anyone has seen or used these and what the experience was?  Thanks for
: any info.
	There is an attachment for Ryobi weedeaters; it is possible that 
this is what you are talking about? Some who tried it on the net were not 
too happy about it. Requires well-worked soil that could probably be 
worked easile with a hoe or rake.
Bruce Moon
Rio Linda, CA


From afn10290@usenet.freenet.ufl.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:08 EST 1995
Article: 55287 of rec.gardens
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From: afn10290@usenet.freenet.ufl.edu (richard ploch)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: test message!! do not read!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 16:26:49 GMT
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Don't read this one either


From Jane@churly.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:35:10 EST 1995
Article: 55288 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Jane@churly.demon.co.uk (Jane Churly)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!churly.demon.co.uk!Jane
Subject: Pittosporum
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I am interested in the collection and propogation of pittosporum and 
would be interested in contacting anyone with 
similar or parallel interests with a view to exchange of 
information and propogation materials.
-- 
Jane Churly



From keziak@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:11 EST 1995
Article: 55289 of rec.gardens
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From: keziak@aol.com (Kezia K)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:  REQUEST: indoor vines?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 11:13:18 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Co-workers in my office grow golden pothos, which behaves like a vine if
you let it, but doesn't flower.

Another idea: hoya.  My elderly relatives have had one going for seemingly
a century, and it flowers often.  I personally think it has a scraggly
look, but the flowers are nice.

KeziaK


From keziak@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:12 EST 1995
Article: 55290 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!psuvax1!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: keziak@aol.com (Kezia K)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nasturiums
Date: 19 Feb 1995 11:13:25 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I guess I missed most of this thread. I like nasturiums too, but have
always found them to be aphid magnets.  And the aphids are the nasty
looking black kind, too.  I don't use sprays routinely, so if I don't go
out there and wash off the leaves regularly, goodbye plants.  I lost my
whole planting last year because I was pregnant and not up to washing
nasturiums in 90 degree weather!

KeziaK


From afn10290@usenet.freenet.ufl.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:14 EST 1995
Article: 55291 of rec.gardens
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From: afn10290@usenet.freenet.ufl.edu (richard ploch)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Date: 19 Feb 1995 16:18:38 GMT
Organization: Alachua County Freenet
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References: <19950211.7AD3958.B454@msbbs.com> <3hkao3$cpd@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3hvk1l$776@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <BG14cm5.wilhelm@delphi.com>
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Those hitch hiker seed things. BLAST!


From Evanne@francis.cerf.net Mon Mar  6 10:35:15 EST 1995
Article: 55292 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!news
From: Evanne@francis.cerf.net
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Apples for Southern Calif
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 08:26:07 PDT
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I live in Redondo Beach about a mile from the ocean.  I planted a Fuji apple 
semi-dwarf tree about four years ago and it is doing okay.  Last year was my 
biggest crop, about 20-25 apples.  They were sweet and crisp.  But it does get 
mealybug badly, so I end up spraying with Safer's soap almost weekly during the 
summer.


From kathy.floritto@sasquat.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:17 EST 1995
Article: 55293 of rec.gardens
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From: kathy.floritto@sasquat.com (KATHY FLORITTO)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: IVY GERANIUMS
Message-ID: <8A37311.1021001591.uuout@sasquat.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 95 13:05:00 -0800
Distribution: world
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     Is there a secret to cloning ivy geraniums?  Will someone please 
share it?  I've never had difficulty with the "ordinary" 
geranium/pelargonium - but the ivy type defeats me...every single time.

     Help!

                              KATHY

 * 1st 2.00b #3640 * Kathy.Floritto@Sasquat.com




From boake@utkvx.utk.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:19 EST 1995
Article: 55294 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!darwin.sura.net!martha.utk.edu!utkvx.utk.edu!boake
From: boake@utkvx.utk.edu (Chris Boake)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Copper tape for slug control?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 11:59 EST
Organization: University of Tennessee
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <19FEB199511595440@utkvx.utk.edu>
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In article <3i3eu8$ipm@ftcnews.nrcs.usda.gov>, tom@avatar.ftc.nrcs.usda.gov (Tom Rudnick) writes...
>B Kelly (bkelly@dragger.ifmt.nf.ca) writes:
> >> I recently noticed an ad in a gardening magazine for copper tape which is
>> supposed to repel slugs.


THe new issue of Organic Flower Gardening says that it is effective.
They also point out that you can cut yourself on it, so be careful.
My favorite anti-slug treatment was in the "letters" section of the
magazine -- feed the suckers to your pet pirahnas!
--Chris



From MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:20 EST 1995
Article: 55295 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!mjc14
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 11:20:07 EST
From: martin j. chiaverini <MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu>
Message-ID: <95050.112007MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
Lines: 9
Status: O
X-Status: 

Jerry Baker does seem to have some unorthodox ideas.  In his houseplant book
he also suggests using Epsom salts, teas, and liquid soap.  Apparently, Epsom
salts (magnesium sulfate) contain two of the important secondary  nutrients
plants need, magnesium and sulfur.  The third is calcium.  Liquid soap is
recommened as a wetting agent to help water penetrate the soil.  Also, the
tannic acid in tea is supposed to help plants' "digestive system", which I
take to mean their uptake of nutrients.  "First Aid for Plants" by Jack
Kramer suggests that a solution of weak tea may be useful for cleansing
soil of fertilizer salts and products of hard water.  Hope this helps.


From MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:22 EST 1995
Article: 55296 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!mjc14
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 12:08:18 EST
From: martin j. chiaverini <MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu>
Message-ID: <95050.120818MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Lines: 10
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I've tried to resist posting my opinion on Martha Stewart, but I just can't
stand it any longer!  A few years back I saw a promo for the Today Show
indicating that Stewart would be doing a segment on techniques for repotting
houseplants, or something.  As a novice indoor gardener at that time, I
watched hoping to gather some useful information.  It turned out that she
spent the entire segment trying to make new clay pots look old by painting
them with yogurt and moss, or some such nonsense, because heaven knows we
wouldn't want anyone thinking we would buy nice, new, clean pots when old,
chipped, algae-infested ones would do!  I haven't been able to stand to
mention of her name since.


From WinFarm@freenet.ufl.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:23 EST 1995
Article: 55297 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.bluesky.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu!freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu!WinFarm
From: Winstead Farms <WinFarm@freenet.ufl.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Herbal ground cover
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 12:19:12 -0500
Organization: Alachua County Freenet
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <Pine.A32.3.91.950219121548.63255A-100000@freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu>
References: <19950218.7B04240.74CF@msbbs.com>
	Lise, Winstead Farms "herbs for all seasons" <9502182234.AA20939@carson.u.washington.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu
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Status: O
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Sorry for the mess-up, my message wouldn't post.  Was just trying to let 
Anne know that we carry chamomile and she could email to me if she wanted 
more info.
Lise, Winstead Farms "herbs for all seasons"




From heverlyj@ccnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:25 EST 1995
Article: 55298 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!ccnet.com!ccnet.com!not-for-mail
From: heverlyj@ccnet.com (Jerry Heverly)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for (Brandywine) Tomato Advice
Date: 19 Feb 1995 09:27:55 -0800
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 45
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3i7v2r$k63@ccnet3.ccnet.com>
References: <3i64ki$7fc@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccnet3
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
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R. Myers (marren@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I'm about to plant about 12 different kinds of tomatoes in my garden. 
: Some of them are Brandywines.  I've heard such good things about these 
: tomatoes, I'm praying they'll do well in my garden.

: CAn anyone give me some general Brandywine tips? I'd rather not have to 
: learn from experience what they like and don't like....

: My garden is windy, but I'll put up a windbreak of some kind.  The soil 
: is sandy, because I live just off the beach. There's plenty of sun, I 
: think, and I plan to use Miracle Grow fertilizer.

: Thanks in advance.
: Renee (Manhattan Beach, CA)
	From *The Total Tomato* by Fred DuBose: "{B}randywine's status as 
the perfect tomato is open to question....No one seems to know where it 
came from or how long it has been around.  It is not commercially 
available{ed. note: 1985}, and may have never been; it has been kept 
alive because its seeds have been passed from one gardener to another.  
And all who grow it agree that its richness and succulence have never 
been equaled.
	But is the Brandywine actually a distinct variety?  Is it even an 
old one?  Most gardeners have the idea that it dates from the nineteenth 
century, but no one can be found who has grown it for more than fifteen 
years.  The old-timers who passed the seeds on have died.  (A 97-year-old 
gardener in Ohio has grown it only since 1970, but says the seeds were 
give to him by a woman now dead, who claimed they had been passed down in 
her family for more than a hundred years.)
	Without doubt Brandywine is very similar to some old beefsteak 
varieties--in particular, to two that are still commercially available, 
Climbing Trip-L Crop and Giant Tree(not to be confused with the so-called 
'tree tomato' advertised in Sunday supplements; the 'tree tomato' is not 
a tomato at all, but an entirely different plant whose fruits happen to 
be red).  Brandywine, like Climbing Trip-L Crop and Giant Tree, is a 
tall-growing, potato-leaved type...and produces large, slightly rough, 
deep pink or purplish fruits.  Growers insist that Brandywine is meatier 
than either, and is indescribably more flavorful.  But a tomato probably 
always tastes better if it is hard to come by.......Days to maturity: 85."
	{It is indeterminate.}
Jerry Heverly, Instr. of Hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA

-- 


Jerry Heverly, Oakland, CA


From heverlyj@ccnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:27 EST 1995
Article: 55299 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!ccnet.com!ccnet.com!not-for-mail
From: heverlyj@ccnet.com (Jerry Heverly)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: What tree/plant is this?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 09:49:24 -0800
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <3i80b4$kuq@ccnet3.ccnet.com>
References: <3i5bt3$m8m@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
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Michelle A. Berteig (mberteig@alumni.caltech.edu) wrote:
: Hi,

: I live in the southern CA area, Pasadena area to be more precise.
: In the evenings this time of year (I've just started to notice it),
: you can smell a very good-smelling fragrance in the air, and I
: would love to know what kind of plant is doing it!  I think it may
: be a tree, but I am not sure.  I also believe the fragrance is
: in the air in fall evenings as well.  I've only ever noticed it
: after dark.  It smells so good, like perfume almost, and I'd love
: to have one in my garden! 
	At first I was going to guess that your fragrance was *Cestrum 
nocturnum*, Night-Blooming Jasmine.  My neighbor has one and I enjoy 
night walks past the place to smell it.  But Cestrum ain't bloomin' 
now(summer) so maybe you are smelling *Pittosporum undulatum*, Victorian 
Box.  It's a small-to-medium tree from Australia that blooms all day but 
might seem more fragrant when the off-shore evening breezes catch the 
scent.  It has dark green, wavy leaves and small white flowers.  You 
should find some ugly little capsules underneath the tree, fruit left 
over from last summer.


: Also, my neighbor has a fruit tree of a type I have never seen
: before.  He says the fruits are called sapote, that is a Spanish
: name.  They are round and yellow, about the size of an apple or orange.
: Can anyone tell me more about these?  Can you eat them?  Are they
: good for anything in particular? (except dropping all over my
: back porch??!?! haha)
	We got educated about this tree a couple weeks ago.  (I'd never 
heard of it).  Here's what *Sunset* says:  "*Casimiroa edulis*,  White 
Sapote.  Evergreen, or erratically behaves as deciduous tree.  Zones 15, 
16-24.  Beautiful tropical tree that will withstand more cold than most 
avocadoes, and seems to do well wherever lemons are grown.  To 50ft.
	Tree bears heavy crop of 3-4-in, round fruits, pale green to 
yellow.  Flavor is described in many ways--similar to peach but more 
bland, banana only sweeter, ripe pear in rich syrup, custard with 
banana-peach flavor.  Consistency of papaya.  Fruit ripens August through 
November.  Overripe fruit becomes slightly bitter.....
	{N}eeds ample water and consistent feeding.  Budded trees give 
best fruit, and are grown in limited quantities.  'Coleman', 'Pike', 
'Wilson', and 'Suebelle' are all good varieties."
	I've been wandering the nurseries looking for one, but so far, no luck.
Jerry Heverly, Instr. of Hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA


: Thanks for any information.

: -Michelle


-- 


Jerry Heverly, Oakland, CA


From altgroup@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:28 EST 1995
Article: 55300 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: altgroup@aol.com (Altgroup)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Herbal ground cover
Date: 19 Feb 1995 12:49:13 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: altgroup@aol.com (Altgroup)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Try Harbor View Garden Co. They have chamomile seeds and plants.
They send an informative catalog by email. Good prices also.
Email harbor@pipeline.com

Thomas Fischer


From richard@interlog.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:31 EST 1995
Article: 55301 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!hookup!interlog.com!not-for-mail
From: richard@interlog.com (Richard Sexton)
Newsgroups: news.groups,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 2nd RFD: rec.plants.*
Followup-To: news.groups
Date: 19 Feb 1995 13:01:12 -0500
Organization: Gryphon Gang North
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <3i8118$676@gold.interlog.com>
References: <3hmjbi$pbr@rodan.UU.NET> <3ho54f$at3@news.rain.org> <3hvo2q$hcq@jac.zko.dec.com> <nick.plummer-1602951952450001@174.52.med.umich.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: gold.interlog.com
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:110648 rec.gardens:55301
Status: O
X-Status: 

(x-posted to rec.gardens because the denizens there need to be infored of
this; i don't want to give them the impression they're being left out. 
Followups directed to news.groups, where any discussion will ensue)


I'm not advocating the removal or splitting of rec.gardens.

I'd like to move some existing groups into a rec.plants hierarchy,
create some groups that have been asked for over the last year (under
rec.plants, not .gardens) and provide namespace for future plant
newsgroups.

Noted is .bonsai's objection to .plants (I have had no response to
my proposiiton that there should maybe be two bonsai groups, rec.arts
and rec.plants, the former concerned with aesthetics the latter with 
horticulture; Hud ?)


In article <nick.plummer-1602951952450001@174.52.med.umich.edu>,
Nicholas Plummer <nick.plummer@med.umich.edu> wrote:
>
>So, why don't we leave the tree torturers ;-) and outdoor gardeners where
>they are and just set up a new hierarchy for the various specialist plant
>groups which are bound to be formed in the not to distant future.  These
>groups will be harder to find if they are lurking under rec.gardens
>
>rec.plants.orchids
>rec.plants.aquatic  
>rec.plants.cacti
>etc, etc

Capital idea. 

-- 
      "Who are these men who would lead us now ?" - Gordon Lightfoot

  Richard J. Sexton  /  VRx Network Services, Inc.  /  richard@interlog.com


From heiser@wam.umd.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:33 EST 1995
Article: 55302 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!heiser
From: heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hot Pepper Plant Problems.
Date: 16 Feb 1995 14:56:56 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3hvp3p$ol4@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>
References: <D3nr0H.55E@freenet.carleton.ca> <3hub27$aag@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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SMarmonkac (smarmonkac@aol.com) wrote:
: No. Peppers need good drainage and sun,  but also like a fair amount of
: water. I also feed mine miracle grow once a week. You should get a good
: yield the first year. Nasturtiums planted as companions help retard pests.
                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 Really?  I've only planted nasturtiums once and in my experience
 they were nothing but aphid magnets which is why I list them as
 one of my most hated plants ... but that's another thread. :-)
 I've never had any plant get so infested. Of course, if aphids
 aren't a problem with peppers, I guess that wouldn't be a problem.
 
 Cheers,

 Mark


From cb77@aloha.cc.columbia.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:34 EST 1995
Article: 55303 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!lamarck.sura.net!news.mci.net!infoserv.illinois.net!ddsw1!panix!news.columbia.edu!aloha.cc.columbia.edu!cb77
From: cb77@aloha.cc.columbia.edu (Craig Bingman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 2nd RFD: rec.plants.*
Date: 19 Feb 1995 17:18:19 GMT
Organization: Columbia University
Lines: 7
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References: <1995Feb16.084657.38710@cobra.uni.edu>
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Status: O
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Well written, Kay.  There may or may not be justification for lumping
all the plant related newsgroups into one hierarchy, but saying that
the culture of orchids and bonsai do not constitute "gardening" is Not
one of them.  

Craig



From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:35 EST 1995
Article: 55304 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: july bloom
Date: 19 Feb 1995 13:03:50 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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liatrus does beautifully in my zone 5 garden. the dwarf cosmos someone
suggested would be good. brite lights if you want a bright orange
contrast. white if you're going for cool. 
tigibson


From kolling@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:37 EST 1995
Article: 55305 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!kolling
From: kolling@netcom.com (Karen Kolling)
Subject: Re: Beware Totally Tomatoes
Message-ID: <kollingD49DwK.7qH@netcom.com>
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
References: <3i34od$ogu@larry.rice.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 17:57:56 GMT
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In article <3i34od$ogu@larry.rice.edu> shel@is.rice.edu (Michelle D Johnson) writes:
>I, like many others, got the Totally Tomatoes catalog and loved it. All these
>peppers and tomatoes that I hadn't seen elsewhere. So I ordered 8 peppers and
>4 tomatoes (I already had tons of each from other places), and 5 starter tray
>flats to use as bottoms for my 6 packs. 
>
>First off, TT charged my credit card account 1/11/95, the day they received
>the order, and didn't SHIP ANYTHING until 1/27/95, more than 3 weeks later. It's
>not against the law or anything, but IT STINKS. No other companies, seed or 
>otherwise, that I deal with do that.

I'm also somewhat ticked off at Totally Tomatoes.  (I ordered from
them last year with no problems.)  I called them a few days ago to ask
where the seed order I'd placed in early February was, and they said
they've scheduled shipping for "next Wednesday", i.e. the 22nd.  The
other seed companies I deal with seem to ship out "just seeds" orders
by first class mail in a day or two.  I've already potted up all the
seedlings from the other companies, and it's so warm here that I'm going
to start setting plants out next week.




From jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US Mon Mar  6 10:35:38 EST 1995
Article: 55306 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!eff!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!mr.net!InforMNs.k12.MN.us!stc1-1.nas.mr.net!user
From: jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US (Janine Dahms Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP! Rabbits
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 19 Feb 1995 18:10:09 GMT
Organization: Internet for Minnesota Schools Project
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <jwalker-190295120812@stc1-1.nas.mr.net>
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My Linda Cambell shrub roses(hardy to zone 2) are being munched by rabbits!
 In Minnesota, we now have about 6 in. snow cover in my zone 3/4.  The
canes are 2-3 ft tall and thorny.  Usually in summer I put a mesh fence
around the rabbits favorite dinner, lillies, and that works well.  I have
tries bloodmeal scattered during summer, but note that I have to initiate
it before they start munching-after they start it's useless.  Dog hair has
not been particularly effective either.  I don't want to fence the roses,
and know if worse comes to worse, they'll grow back from their own roots. 
Any other great ideas?    Janine


From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:40 EST 1995
Article: 55307 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Forcing bulbs
Date: 19 Feb 1995 13:20:49 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Status: O
X-Status: 

i've replanted my forced tulip and daff bulbs and gotten bloom the next
year. i planted tham as early as i could and kept them moist until
planting. now i get a few surprises every spring.
tigibson


From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:41 EST 1995
Article: 55308 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: different annuals for sun?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 13:20:55 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 7
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
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i too like unusual annuals, luckily my local nursery puts out hundreds of
varieties. last year i tried a trailing zinnia - it had bright yellow
blooms with red centers, wuite small, but they covered the plant. i wish i
could tell you the latin name, i knew i'd find it this year so i didn't
save it. but it's in the zinnia family.
i also grew black eyed susan vines on a trellis, they grew 6' tall! 
tigibson


From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:42 EST 1995
Article: 55309 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Date: 19 Feb 1995 13:09:34 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Status: O
X-Status: 

ornamental cabbages when overused in a garden (more than one) are totally
obnoxious. but one can be an adventure.
tigibson


From judy@iris.krldwa.mccaw.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:44 EST 1995
Article: 55310 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!nwnexus!nwnexus!mccaw!iris!judy
From: judy@iris.krldwa.mccaw.com (judy johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: software
Date: 16 Feb 1995 00:04:51 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3hu4r3$qvb@ftp-p.mccaw.com>
Reply-To: judy@iris.krldwa.mccaw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.204.2.49
Keywords: searching
Status: O
X-Status: 

I am looking for some good gardening software for my PC.
I'd like it to include a good plant reference and also logging capability.

Does anyone know if such a thing exists and, if so, where I can find it?

Thanks in advance,
Judy

judy.johnson@mccaw.com





From wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Mon Mar  6 10:35:45 EST 1995
Article: 55311 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1
From: wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden layout software
Date: 16 Feb 95 10:05:51 EST
Organization: University of Scranton
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <1995Feb16.100551.1@jaguar.uofs.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaguar.cs.uofs.edu
Status: O
X-Status: 

I've used Corel Draw to lay out my garden.  Last year I contented myself
with placing little colored circles in the outlines of the bed, and
this year I used some of its plant clip art (resizeable) to plan a
new one.  Next week my new system, complete with color scanner, will
be in place, and I can actually scan pix from the seed catalogs to
put in place.  It's not a program designed for gardens, but it's certainly
worked well for me.
Carol


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:47 EST 1995
Article: 55312 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <destryD49r2I.31n@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <3hojje$cdv@cello.gina.calstate.edu> <3hq9dg$a66@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <destryD42A45.KLK@netcom.com> <D442Hr.EM2@nvl.army.mil>
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:42:18 GMT
Lines: 37
Sender: destry@netcom13.netcom.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Ebeth Jones (bajones@astro) wrote:
: In article <destryD42A45.KLK@netcom.com> destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker) writes:
: > _Gratuitously_ crossposting? Jeez, Alex, lighten up! If someone's 
: >crossposting to several groups, as long as it doesn't violate any 
: >charters, that's his business. If you don't want to reply to him and have 
: >it spread across several groups, edit the newsgroups line before you send 
: >it. 
: >   If someone is posting inappropriately to _any_ group, someone can 
: >always politely remind him/her that the subject of this group is 'such 
: >and such' and he might want to look elsewhere for the info.


: Puh-leeze!

: "as long as it doesn't violate the charters"?  When, oh when, are 
: you going to get it?  It is always September on the net, there will
: always be a newbie who doesn't even have a clue that there *is* a
: charter, much less what the charter says.  And of course we all know
: that the charters are impossible to enforce, polite reminders or
: not.  Your polite reminders will become an end unto themselves,
: filling up so much space in the group that the next thing you know
: you will be requesting votes for a "rec.gardens.enforce.the.charter"
: newsgroup.

    I think you are being _way_ to extreme and the idea that crossposting 
would fill up the newsgroups with unnecessary off-topic postings is being 
overhyped. There will always be crossposting between groups of similar 
subjects, and that is not usually a bad thing...but to suggest that there 
will be mass, wholesale crossposting that will destroy the functionality 
of related gardens groups is irresponsable and inflamatory.
   Newbies are newbies because they don't know any better, once they 
find out how to do things they stop making the same mistakes.    
   Has crossposting destroyed rec.gardens.roses and rec.gardens.orchids?

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From umgendro@ccu.umanitoba.ca Mon Mar  6 10:35:48 EST 1995
Article: 55313 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!Rick.Gendron
From: umgendro@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Rick Gendron)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: Keeping cats out of yer garden.
Date: 19 Feb 1995 18:47:55 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 9
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[4017]
Message-ID: <3i83or$p02@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dyn1-079.cc.umanitoba.ca
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca.
Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name.
Status: O
X-Status: 

Hey all,

The suggestions for using chili powder or ground pepper are right on
the money.  If you watch (and this sounds ridiculous) cats before they
urinate or deficate, they always sniff the ground.  Why? Beats me. 
Using pepper or chilies as a deterrent is an excellent way of keeping
out them cats.

-Rick.


From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:49 EST 1995
Article: 55314 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!infoseek.com!uunet!psinntp!razorbill!Polikoff
From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: CATS how do I keep 'em out!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 15:19:08 GMT
Message-ID: <1899036671.14389193@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 1
Status: O
X-Status: 

	I used to do that until the neighbors called the cops :>)


From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:51 EST 1995
Article: 55315 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!infoseek.com!uunet!psinntp!razorbill!Polikoff
From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: rec.gardens.organic...Opinions??
Date: 19 Feb 1995 15:24:12 GMT
Message-ID: <2075783166.14407106@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 3
Status: O
X-Status: 

NO. I like to read about all gardening, and plants.

			Arnie


From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:52 EST 1995
Article: 55316 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!infoseek.com!uunet!psinntp!razorbill!Polikoff
From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: Propagation of Elderberry
Date: 19 Feb 1995 15:27:01 GMT
Message-ID: <1261305854.14425136@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 4
Status: O
X-Status: 

I think they come back because the birds poop out the seeds. I get the plants
all around my yard even where they were not growing the year before.

			Arnie


From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:54 EST 1995
Article: 55317 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!godot.cc.duq.edu!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!psinntp!razorbill!Polikoff
From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: Beware Totally Tomatoes
Date: 19 Feb 1995 15:31:34 GMT
Message-ID: <68415486.14443170@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 8
Status: O
X-Status: 

Write to your credit card company explaining the situation and that you want
them to not pay the company. Read the back of the credit card bill for the
exact way to do this. I did this several times and got satisfaction. What
happens is that you get a credit on your bill if you already paid it. If you
did not pay the bill yet, they do not charge you interest on the unpaid
portion of the bill that is in dispute. The main word here is DISPUTE.

		Arnie


From ssim@netaccess.on.ca Mon Mar  6 10:35:56 EST 1995
Article: 55318 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!hookup!nic.ott.hookup.net!worldlinx.com!alpha.netaccess.on.ca!alpha.netaccess.on.ca!not-for-mail
From: ssim@netaccess.on.ca (Sheila Sim)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Date: 19 Feb 1995 14:34:37 -0500
Organization: NetAccess Systems Inc., Hamilton, Ontario
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3i86gd$te@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.243.225.10
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Status: O
X-Status: 

I'm so new to this game I'm not even sure how to get my postings through, 
let alone respond to one.  But as a 4 year (probably very much a novice 
to many of you!!) gardener, I've found the broad category of rec.gardens 
perfectly sufficient.  I'm using TIN so I guess that helps categories 
some of the discussion and I just discovered the ^D to go down a whole 
page at time if I don't want to read the articles on it ... WOW!! Who 
invented this stuff!  Anyway, the broad category gives me the opportunity 
to browse through and discover a neat articles that I might not have gone 
looking for elsewhere.  

I remember someone posting a request to the group that we identify 
ourselves (location and zone) for referenece.  That was certainly a good 
point ... and I've noticed the improvements since.  Along the same lines, 
I think if all users define their subject carefully, readers can pick and 
choose the articles they want to read.  

Since I only get to it once/week, like someone else mentioned, I find it 
really necessary to pick the key interests but like having a single 
source of possible articles. 

For what it's worth.  Let's hope this gets through (wish me luck!!) and 
if anyone out there can give me a few quick pointers on how to use tin 
and save files for future reference I'd be forever grateful!!!  I know 
you're not there to coach on computer processes, but the commercial 
server I've connected to have not been tremendously helpful with this.  
Is there a book on using Tin that I should look for?  

Anyway, thanks for all the great gardening articles - I've got a quarter 
acre in a small town and have discovered the joy and serenity of 
gardening (even in Southern Ontario Clay!!)

Sheila Sim (zone 5-6)
(ssim@netaccess.on.ca)


From rhaar@gmr.com Mon Mar  6 10:35:57 EST 1995
Article: 55319 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!rcsuna.gmr.com!news
From: rhaar@gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Herbal ground cover
Date: 16 Feb 1995 17:26:38 GMT
Organization: G.M. R&D Center
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3i01se$645@rcsuna.gmr.com>
References: <3hubn1$agt@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: rhaar@gmr.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: albert.cs.gmr.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <3hubn1$agt@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, smarmonkac@aol.com (SMarmonkac) writes:
|>I want to use something in addition to chamomile and creeping thyme as a
|>path groundcover - any suggestions?

Do you want something to use as an herb in cooking or something
that smells nice when you wake on it?

In the later category: 

	Corsican mint
	sweet woodruff

-- 
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. R & D Center
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.




From dcamp@epix.net Mon Mar  6 10:35:59 EST 1995
Article: 55320 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!grape.epix.net!peach.epix.net!dcamp
From: Blake Gavitt <dcamp@epix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Sunset EASTERN Garden Book
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 20:32:36 +0000
Organization: epix.net
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.950219202704.4251B-100000@peach.epix.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: peach.epix.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Status: O
X-Status: 

For group members outside California: Don't gloss over the Sunset Western 
Garden Book. It may just be the best gardening book on the market, and 
many plants that grow in the West grow in other parts of the country.  
But best of all, many pllants grown outdoors in warm climates are grown 
as house plants or conservatory plants elsewhere. In the absence of any 
really good houseplant book on the market currently, I use the Sunset 
book all the time here in Pennsylvania. And with the new version on 
CD-ROM, it will get even more use.


From dfoss@babylon.gain.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:00 EST 1995
Article: 55321 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!naples.gain.com!not-for-mail
From: dfoss@babylon.gain.com (Diana Foss)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Most beloved plant
Date: 16 Feb 1995 09:37:27 -0800
Organization: Gain Technology, Palo Alto, CA.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3i02gn$mt9@babylon.gain.com>
References: <rspear.266.007E6B0D@primenet.com> <3hfo2a$g53@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3hgsvf$edl@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: babylon.gain.com
Status: O
X-Status: 


I love my 70-year-old wisteria: the gorgeous purple flowers that
cover it in the early spring and peek out during the summer, the
shade it provides to my living room when it's hot, and the great
exploding seed pods that pop so satisfyingly when I throw them to
the ground.

I adore daffodils and wish they would last a bit longer.

	Diana "I could go on and on..." Foss

-- 
Diana Foss                                                 dfoss@gain.com

The Rikitandoo! Now what is that? It's something made by the Princess Pat.
It's red and gold, and purple, too. That's why it's called the Rikitandoo.


From ad357@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Mar  6 10:36:02 EST 1995
Article: 55322 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ad357
From: ad357@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Nikolai Nefedow)
Subject: Re: Cruickshank's Quality?
Message-ID: <D43p3A.8pD@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: ad357@freenet3.carleton.ca (Nikolai Nefedow)
Reply-To: ad357@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Nikolai Nefedow)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
References: <1995Feb14.072019.27951@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <3hbvd2$4a2@moon.src.honeywell.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 16:13:57 GMT
Lines: 35
Status: O
X-Status: 

> In a previous article, hoyme@src.honeywell.com (Ken Hoyme) says:
> 
>>I apologize if this is an FAQ -- I didn't see any discussion of this in the
>>messages queued on my machine.
>>
>>Has anyone had any particularly good or bad experiences with Cruickshank's,
>>from Toronto Canada?  Their latest catalog has us hooked, as we are getting
>>Spring fever.  I would love to order some of their lilies and a couple of
>>clematis, but wonder whether it is too much to gamble a large order on the
>>first try.

I've been ordering from Cruickshank's for years and I've never had any
failures.  I've always been satisfied.  Their bulbs tend to be larger than
I've seen in nurseries and gardens centers.

The best thing about Cruickshank's is that they have the more unusual
varieties of plants or things that are just not seen in your normal garden
centers or nurseries.

Several years ago I bought some clematis paniculata (sp?) and tangutica (sp?)
and only now are these starting to appear at the better garden centers.

Their selection of woodland plants is unsurpassed in Eastern Canada and their
irises ... well no one even come close to the selection of medal and award
winners.

The only word of caution is that some plants could be on the small side
(e.g. tiarella cordifolia - foamflower) but they are guaranteed.  BTW, ours
did very well.


--
Nikolai Nefedow         At Play:  ad357@freenet.carleton.ca
Ottawa, Ontario         At Work:  nefedow@cognos.com
CANADA                            4072867@mcimail.com


From jeter@clark.net Mon Mar  6 10:36:03 EST 1995
Article: 55323 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!jeter
From: jeter@clark.net ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Prune Hibiscus?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 20:12:28 GMT
Organization: Clark Internet Services, Inc., Ellicott City, MD USA
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <3i88nc$m3j@clarknet.clark.net>
References: <3hq7eh$maq@dewey.csun.edu> <BS37koy.telem@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: clark.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=ISO-8859-1
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Status: O
X-Status: 

telem@delphi.com wrote:
: lynn vavra <hbedu014@huey.csun.edu> writes:
:  
: >I have 2 Hibiscus in barrels.  They are at least 10 years old, & doing
: >well.  So well, in fact, my husband is threatening to prune.  I have
: >questions RE: when best to prune (we're in So. Cal.), how to prune, how
: >much to prune, etc.  TIA!                                     Lynn
:  
: Tropical hibiscus (the kind we connect w/ Hawaii)
: can be pruned any time that you think chances for
: frost are over.  Cut back just above an "eye" -  in
: other words just above where a leaf came out.
: Some hybrid varieties simply don't thrive w/o
: pruning. Pruning stimulates new growth and plant
: health in general.
: For info on the American Hibiscus Society email me.
: Tom Miller

My hibiscus had a really hard summer; I live in
Washington, DC. Whiteflies would not leave it alone and it
was really hurting by the time I brought it in. 

I want to revitalize it (looks horrible!) and do the
least damage as possible. So,

Should I determine what kind of hibiscus it is before I 
prune it (down the the ground!!)? Mine is like a bush.

Is there a FAQ? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Lisa Jeter
jeter@clark.net


From revans@msbbs.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:05 EST 1995
Article: 55324 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news
From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: "bare root" blackberries arrived yesterd
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 14:15:42
Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS)
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <19950219.7AAD990.D0A0@msbbs.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: msbbs.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

>Hi!
>I'm just south of you in Mountain View.
>    Put them in a bucket of water immediatly, to help them recover from
>the shock of shipping.   DON"T let them dry out.  Certain death!
>    AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, go out and dig the hole where you are going to
>put them.   I usually take the sawdust in the bag with the roots and mi
>it with the soil I've just dug out for some free mulch/compost.  Fertiz
>with whatever you want, following directions.  Get those plants into th
>ground as soon as possible!  We're almost past bare-root season in the
>Area.                 .     I'm still waiting for my back-east berries
>be shipped, and I'm worried I'll miss the best dates, and that they'll
>start sprouting in the mail once they hit warm California weather.

>Betty Cunningham(Flyinggoat@aol.com)
>illustrator, animator, and likes to collect dead things

Call the company you ordered them from and insist they mail NOW.  They
probably have the product in cold storage anyway.  I did that one year
with a company that wanted to mail a full month later.  They sent it at
my request.

Ruth
     __             ___        __
__  ////\  /\/\  /\/ _//\ __  /// | Anne McCaffrey: Master Word Crafter|
\\\//// '\/    \/ / /\/ '\\\\///  | Princess:  Cutest Wiggle Tail Ever!|
 \XX/ \/\/\/\/\/\/\__/\/\/ \XX/   | revans@vrb.com or revans@msbbs.com |


From jeter@clark.net Mon Mar  6 10:36:06 EST 1995
Article: 55325 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!jeter
From: jeter@clark.net ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nasturiums
Date: 19 Feb 1995 20:26:15 GMT
Organization: Clark Internet Services, Inc., Ellicott City, MD USA
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3i89h7$m3j@clarknet.clark.net>
References: <3i6svc$25k@nntp.interaccess.com> <3i7qn5$4bc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: clark.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Status: O
X-Status: 

Kezia K (keziak@aol.com) wrote:
: I guess I missed most of this thread. I like nasturiums too, but have
: always found them to be aphid magnets.  And the aphids are the nasty
: looking black kind, too.  I don't use sprays routinely, so if I don't go
: out there and wash off the leaves regularly, goodbye plants.  I lost my
: whole planting last year because I was pregnant and not up to washing
: nasturiums in 90 degree weather!

: KeziaK

Yeah! Last summer I planted them and they were covered completely with those
aphids! I really tried to pick them off but they would come back stronger than
ever. One question, I live in Washington, DC where the summers are hot and humid.
Is this hard on nasturtium. I expected them to take over the planter I had them in,
but they never got past the aphids.

You think I should try again? I grew them once as a child.

Lisa Jeter
jeter@clark.net


From dcamp@epix.net Mon Mar  6 10:36:07 EST 1995
Article: 55326 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!grape.epix.net!peach.epix.net!dcamp
From: Blake Gavitt <dcamp@epix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: test message!! do not read!
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 20:22:22 +0000
Organization: epix.net
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.950219202132.4251A-100000@peach.epix.net>
References: <1995Feb18.194218.12604@ivax>
NNTP-Posting-Host: peach.epix.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
In-Reply-To: <1995Feb18.194218.12604@ivax> 
Status: O
X-Status: 



On 18 Feb 1995 dldaniel@indyvax.iupui.edu wrote:

> this is a test message!!!  
> 
> 
I bet this message got more readers than any messag in the group. How can 
you pass up a message that says "do not read".> 


From clively@onramp.net Mon Mar  6 10:36:08 EST 1995
Article: 55327 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.onramp.net!onramp.net!clively
From: clively@onramp.net (Carol M. Lively)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Until my cat ate the squirrel...
Date: 17 Feb 1995 01:03:35 GMT
Organization: On-Ramp; Individual Internet Connections; Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
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In message <3hv0e3$8av@dewey.csun.edu>, hbedu014@huey.csun.edu (lynn vavra) 
writes:

>Going off the (original) point a bit, but I too was upset that the
>squirrel ate my bulbs, until my cat ate the squirrel...      Lynn.

Lynn,

Thanks for the laugh - first one of the day, though I'm sure that it wasn't 
it really very funny for you.

Carol Lively



From moulton@bsl1.bslnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:10 EST 1995
Article: 55328 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.indirect.com!bsl1!moulton
From: moulton@bsl1.bslnet.com (Mary A. Moulton)
Subject: =Chicken Wire for Veg Beds?
Message-ID: <D444Jr.EBF@indirect.com>
Sender: usenet@indirect.com (Internet Direct Admin)
Organization: Internet Direct, indirect.com
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 21:47:51 GMT
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I'm building new beds with cedar 8" high and have been advised to put 
chicken wire in the bottom and up the sides to keep gophers, ground 
squirrels, chipmunks,mice and what-have-you from burrowing into the 
vegies.  Does this really work?  I keep thinking that the wire will get 
tangled up in my tools such as, fork, when I turn the soil.  Also, is 
chicken wire too big for these critters, would it be better to use a 
smaller mesh wire?  Please advise.


From jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US Mon Mar  6 10:36:12 EST 1995
Article: 55329 of rec.gardens
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From: jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US (Janine Dahms Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 16 Feb 1995 22:13:08 GMT
Organization: Internet for Minnesota Schools Project
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References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: stc1-2.nas.mr.net
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I agree with Kay- keep rec gardens as is. I can easily scan all the
articles and select those of interest.  I also like reading about plants
from all over the country, and have had many responses from people outside
my zone 3/4.  Besides, I enjoy readers from the south complaining about the
cold!  It's all relative in Minesota!  Janine Dahms Walker


From diveanddig@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:13 EST 1995
Article: 55330 of rec.gardens
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From: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Greenhouses
Date: 16 Feb 1995 17:10:31 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have a Northern Light greenhouse 10 by 15 ft.  Love it.  Acuired from
Gardeners Supply and erected it myself - a breeze.  Any specific
questions?

Bill Bird, zone 6, NY


From FREEFORU@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:14 EST 1995
Article: 55331 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: FREEFORU@aol.com
Message-ID: <950216140253_23416777@aol.com>
Subject: >>>WHOLESALE FLOWER SUPPLIES!
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 17:49:40 -0500
X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA06817; Thu, 16 Feb 95 14:51:53 -0800
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For FREE Wholesale Supplier Information about how YOU
can purchase Flower Supplies & MORE at LOW, LOW
WHOLESALE PRICES, simply E-mail  FREE FOR U@aol.com
Be sure to include the words "Flower Info" in your "Subject:"
header, or in the request itself, otherwise your request cannot
be properly processed. 
We will respond with your FREE information within 48 hours!





From cev@clam.rutgers.edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:16 EST 1995
Article: 55332 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!clam.rutgers.edu!not-for-mail
From: cev@clam.rutgers.edu (Cara Vandy)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: witch hazel
Date: 16 Feb 1995 17:50:56 -0500
Organization: Rutgers University
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Message-ID: <3i0ksg$q8s@clam.rutgers.edu>
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Keywords: witch hazel?
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	What is the diference between witch hazel and forsythia?  I just 
read a post describing witch hazel as a small tree, and here i always 
thought it was a bush.   I thought witch hazel was very similar to 
forsythia, but smaller, with fewer flowers that bloom before forsythia.  
Am I just looking at young, skinny forsythia?  
		CEV




From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:17 EST 1995
Article: 55333 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!spool.mu.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: rec.gardens.organic...Opinions??
Message-ID: <destryD49qqA.2K2@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
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KAI202 (kai202@aol.com) wrote:
: I vote for organic gardening tips and help to stay on this list.  We need
: to inform people of the great benefits of organic gardening.

    There's no reason organic gardening tips and help _wouldn't_ stay on 
this newsgroup if there  was an organic gardening newsgroup. _Every_ 
organic gardener who has emailed me about the proposed rec.gardens. 
whatever organic group...(EVERY one, and I've got about 50 saved messages 
now) says they would continue to read and post to rec.gardens but would 
really appreciate somewhere to talk about organic methods _in detail_ 
with other orgainc gardeners.

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From jfsanders@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:18 EST 1995
Article: 55334 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!jfsanders
From: jfsanders@delphi.com (jack sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: wildflowers in not so full sun?
Date: 16 Feb 1995 23:15:05 GMT
Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation
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Anyone interested in shade-loving wildflowers might want to look for a book
called "Growing Woodland Plants," by Clarence and Eleanor Birdseye (yes, the
same Birdseye of the food brand -- Clarence invented the modern process of
freezing vegetables, but was also a wildflower gardener of considerable skill
and repute). 

This book was originally published by Oxford University Press in 1951 but was
subsequently reprinted, starting in 1972, by Dover in an inexpensive
paperback. The book may be out of print, but many libraries probably have it. 

"Growing Woodland Plants" has a lot on shade-loving wildflowers, but also a
sizable section on ferns. It also has a lot on the care of shaded wild
gardens. 

--Jack Sanders, Ridgefield, Conn., jfsanders@delphi.com
   ["Hedgemaids and Fairy Candles: The Lives &  Lore of North American
Wildflowers,"     Ragged Mountain Press/McGraw-Hill, 1993]


From cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:36:25 EST 1995
Article: 55335 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Distribution: world
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <HACHEYB.95Feb16132352@bmerh9f2.bnr.ca>
Organization: Wordshop
Reply-To: cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk
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Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk
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In article <HACHEYB.95Feb16132352@bmerh9f2.bnr.ca>
           hacheyb@bmerh9f2.bnr.ca "Brian Hachey" writes:

<much deleted to save bandwidth>

> The only reason I post this is because I get the impression that most
> of the anti-"shredder" people out there want to keep things exactly
> the way they are.  I'd ask that they at least consider the merits of
> this one change.
> 

I certainly have no problem with that - but I'd rather it was not in
a new "plants" hierarchy, which would be a logical nonsense if it was
applied as is being proposed. 

-- 
Gary Cooper


From slbailey@bu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:27 EST 1995
Article: 55336 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!world!news.bu.edu!slbailey
From: slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Date: 16 Feb 1995 23:14:15 GMT
Organization: Boston University
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3i0m87$e61@news.bu.edu>
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <HACHEYB.95Feb16132352@bmerh9f2.bnr.ca>
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Mike put in a plea for "at least one change", a newsgroup about houseplants.
This is not a "change" really, or it shouldn't be -- it's an addition.
Those who have been around here al ong time know I have always, in these
discussions, used houseplants as one logical and viable separate group -- it
ISN'T the same as "gardening".

Frankly, I think the problem here is insufficient interest.  If somebody who
WANTS a houseplants group (not my interest, so I'm not gonna do it! ;^) )
could post a proposal and follow the "starting a new newsgroup" procedure,
which is posted in one of the news.* groups, maybe there would turn out to be
among the lurkers enough support to start one.  It seems to me, though, that
the majority of houseplant discussion comes from people who zap in and ask how
to keep their office begonia/african violet/cactus/philodendron alive, then
disappear, often with "please e-mail since I don't follow this newsgroup"
attached.  Maybe having one place for houseplants alone would make this
different, but I'm not sure.  

At any rate, fragmenting rec.gardens to acquire a houseplants group is not
a good solution.  Starting rec.houseplants might be.

Sherry



From edrn@dlep1.itg.ti.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:28 EST 1995
Article: 55337 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!usenet
From: edrn@dlep1.itg.ti.com (Lynnette)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Disaster: Novice plants seeds to save money...help !!
Date: 16 Feb 1995 23:41:30 GMT
Organization: Texas Instruments
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NNTP-Posting-Host: lynnette.corp.ti.com
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Status: O
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I visited my local nursery in the throes of a thrifty mood, and bought 
a bunch of flower seed packets. Last year, I spent about $40 on
6 packs of begonias alone !! This year, I was going to play it wise and 
plan ahead. I bought three packs of Impatien seeds and planted them
in organic potting soil, as suggested by the teenaged "garden" 
manager...hmmm...Now, over a week later, no sprouts. Nothing. 
The seeds were so small, I used tweezers to plant them. 

Any advice ? I spent $6 on seeds, and I fear the advice of the "manager"
was bad.

Copyright 1995 by
Lynnette Edrington Dallas, Tx
All rights reserved.


From smiller@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:30 EST 1995
Article: 55338 of rec.gardens
From: smiller@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Sara Miller)
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 21:12:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Message-ID: <3740120@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: HP Corp Computing & Services
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Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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/ hpcc01:rec.gardens / revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans) /  9:44 pm  Feb  8, 1995 /
This may be a strange topic, but what is your least liked plant?  What

Thanks for the opportunity to get this off my chest:

I HATE PRIVET!!!!

Also to a lessor degree, pyracantha and cotoneaster.  This could be directly
related to my neighbor's yard in which all three grow entirely unchecked, so
not only am I losing my morning sun (he is on the southeast side), but I
am constantly battling (sp?) little privets, pyracantha, and cotoneasters 
all over my yard!  

Hmmm... Come to think of it maybe it's my neighbor's irresponsibility
I hate...

Sara Miller
smiller@corp.hp.com
Menlo Park
Zone 9


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:32 EST 1995
Article: 55339 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <destryD49rKy.3n6@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu> <792860357snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <3htkkg$4ql@news.bu.edu> <destryD44EBr.1t2@netcom.com> <3i2t57$ip1@news.bu.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:53:22 GMT
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Sherry Bailey (slbailey@bu.edu) wrote:
: Fellwalker (destry@netcom.com) wrote:


: :    I've never seen a gardening magazine (or any other magazine) that 
: : didn't put a table of contents at the begining so you could find what 
: : subjects you were interested in, and I've never seen anything short of a 
: : gardening encyclopedia that had (up to) 300 articles in every issue. You 
: : get something that big and it starts making sense to split things into 
: : "chapters".

: What newsreader are you using?  I have used at least three different ones on
: UNIX, and all of them thread the subject lines -- THOSE are your chapters. The
: most obvious of these is tin, which sorts all the articles into subject lists
: and even BRINGS BACK previously read and lost postings to which new followups
: are being added... my sysadmin led me to believe that tin is freeware
: available for all UNIX systems.  But even in rn and the other one I can't
: remember now, there is always a command key to follow a thread foreward or
: backward, so if not as tidy as in tin, the capacity to have "chapters" is
: still there.

    TIN doesn't sort postings into subjects, it gives you a list of the 
individual threads active. Today, after being offline for 23 hours, there 
were 310 individual threads with new postings (if I pull in all active 
threads, even without new postings, thre are almost 600). That means that 
even with TIN set to list only threads with new posts, (and knowing how 
to use my newsreader), I'm still scanning through 300+ 'subjects' every 
time I sign on, many with multiple posts per thread. 

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From 0542@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:33 EST 1995
Article: 55340 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: Ben A. Harris <0542@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: American Chesnut Cooperators Foundation Information
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 16:16:44 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <h634020.0542@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1b.delphi.com
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A note on the American Chesnut Cooperators Foundation.....

The American Chesnut Cooperators' Foundation is a nonprofit
scientific and educational foundation dedicated to restoring the
American chesnut to its former place in our Eastern hardwood
forests. Priorities include the development of blight-resistant
all-American chesnuts and economical biological control measures
against chesnut blight in the forest enviroment.

The foundation distributes seed nuts (in October) and seedlings (in
November) to members who agree to report each September on their
trees' progress. Report forms are printed in the fall newsletter
for this purpose. An annual donation of $20 is suggested for
membership; otherwisw, a sum sufficient to cover our costs.

ACCF distributions are very large scale trials of the early
products of open pollination in our breeding orchards. Blight
resistance of parent trees is inherited by only some of their
offspring. More generations of breeding are necessary to produce
American chesnuts with blight resistance that is regularly
inheritable. When ACCF stock is planted within this area infested
by blight, natural selection will reveal the resistant individuals.

Other projects for cooperators include managing selected aging
clearcuts for American chesnut revival and spring grafting clinics.
To receive more information or to join our work, please write to
ACCF, 2667 Forest Service Road 708, Newport Virginia 24128. 

......................................................

As a member of ACCF, I have taken the task of answering periodic
inquiries which appear on rec.gardens. If there are specific
questions about American chesnut revival, I can provide e mail
reply within the limits of my knowledge. I am a cooperator
dedicated to helping out on the long term project. 

........................................................
BEN A HARRIS       615 239 0526     fax 615 239 0526
E MAIL 0542@delphi.com              Kingsport Tennessee
........................................................


From Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca Mon Mar  6 10:36:35 EST 1995
Article: 55341 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.mindlink.net!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331
From: Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Moira Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tomato blight
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 16:52:05 -0800
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <65419-793241525@mindlink.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.net
Status: O
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In article <95048.131949KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>, KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu
writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <95048.131949KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
> Posted: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 13:19:49 EST
>
> Hi.  I'm gardening in Morgantown, West Virginia, and last
> summer everyone got tomato blight.  I do companion-type
> plantings, and had tomato plants all over my small garden
> area.  People say not to plant tomato in the same place
> for three years after you get the blight, but that would
> mean no tomatoes.  Are there any other options?  Are there
> any "brands" of tomato plants that are resistant enough
> to blight that I could still plant them in the same place?
> Any help would be greatly appreciated...
>
> Keith Ruckstuhl


This is a tough one.  The fungus that causes late blight (Phytophthora
infestans) is a nasty bit of business.  Here are a few suggestions...

1. Can you plant the tomatoes against a south wall, under an overhang or
under a temporary covering...the fungus is spread by rain and wind so
keeping the plants dry will give you a better chance.

2. Don't compost any diseased vines.

3. Don't over fertilize or over-water and only water the ground (don't use
sprinklers).

4. Watch the plants and remove any diseased leaves the minute they appear.

Also, this is completely unscientific, just something I have noticed in my
garden, but I have found that the cherry tomatoes seem to have slightly
more resistance to the blight than the regular size tomatoes -may just be a
fluke.

Good luck!
Moira


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:36 EST 1995
Article: 55342 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!srvr1.flint.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <destryD44E1B.147@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu> <792860357snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 01:12:47 GMT
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Status: O
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Gary Cooper (Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk) wrote:

: Why do people seem to feel that just because there are x-hundred
: posts a day that they have to *read* them all? Even without a
: threaded newsreader it's no trouble at all to scan through the 
: headers and only read those which strike you as interesting. If we
: split the group the really keen among us (ok, ok, the obsessives!)
: will probably take most of the new groups and end-up with even 
: more to scan, as the total number of posts will be bound to rise.

   I read them all because I'm _interested_ in more than a few types of 
gardening. However, I wouldn't buy a loosefeaf gardening book, take the 
pages out, and mix them up on the floor...then try to read it. I would 
look through it by chapter to find areas that I was interested in. 
   That's all that's being proposed here. Taking a gardening book, 
rec.gardens, and giving it chapters so it's easier to read.

  If the number of posts rise if the group is subduvided, GREAT! That 
means more gardeners are sharing more information...and probably having 
an easier time reading it then if it was all mixed up in one pile.

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From linda@annie.wellesley.edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:38 EST 1995
Article: 55343 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!wellesley.edu!annie.wellesley.edu!linda
From: linda@annie.wellesley.edu (Linda M. French)
Subject: Re:  Equal time for ivy
Message-ID: <1995Feb19.214432.10362@olaf.wellesley.edu>
Sender: news@olaf.wellesley.edu (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: annie.wellesley.edu
Organization: Department of Astronomy, Wellesley College, Wellesley, MA
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 21:44:32 GMT
Lines: 23
Status: O
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Jerry Heverly wrote:
The ivy of
Wellesley(Parthenocissus) is *totally* different than the ivy on most of

the 'least-liked' lists(Hedera).
Jerry Heverly, Instr. of hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA
-- 

I may be from near Boston, but we do have both "Boston ivy" and true
ivy, Hedera, and I do know the difference.  I was most definitely 
referring to Hedera, specifically many interesting cultivars including
"Goldheart", "Buttercup", and "Glacier".

Has anyone seen the adult form of Hedera?  Supposedly the leaves change
shape, it produces berries, and it takes a shrublike appearance.
I'd love to see this.  The vining form of ivy that we all know is 
a juvenile form.

Linda





From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:39 EST 1995
Article: 55344 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!srvr1.flint.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <destryD44EBr.1t2@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu> <792860357snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <3htkkg$4ql@news.bu.edu>
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 01:19:03 GMT
Lines: 25
Sender: destry@netcom11.netcom.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Sherry Bailey (slbailey@bu.edu) wrote:

: There IS no satisfactory way to divide the subject of gardening -- the
: solution is to scan your subjects and only read the ones you find interesting,
: skipping the rest.  If you can use "tin" or another threaded news reader
: instead of rn or one of the older options, the threads are more obvious, the
: subject list shorter.

: I say REAL gardeners need access to the gamut of information, even if they
: choose to skip all "deer and animal pest" postings that week... I never saw a
: gardening magazine that limited itself to only one aspect of gardening -- even
: Organic Gardening, which comes closest, has articles on ornamentals, edibles,
: lawncare, tools, pest control, and tons of other things some people want to
: see in separate newsgroups.  

   I've never seen a gardening magazine (or any other magazine) that 
didn't put a table of contents at the begining so you could find what 
subjects you were interested in, and I've never seen anything short of a 
gardening encyclopedia that had (up to) 300 articles in every issue. You 
get something that big and it starts making sense to split things into 
"chapters".

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From MRO93001@UConnVM.UConn.Edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:41 EST 1995
Article: 55345 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!newsserver.jvnc.net!bellboy.ucc.uconn.edu!UConnVM.UConn.Edu!MRO93001
From: MRO93001@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: cacti catalogs
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 15:33:47 EST
Organization: University of Connecticut
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <1734ADB0AS86.MRO93001@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <D3LoDM.zC0@bocanews.bocaraton.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.ucc.uconn.edu
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <D3LoDM.zC0@bocanews.bocaraton.ibm.com>
lojohn@vnet.ibm.com writes:
>
>Looking for catalogs to order cacti and succulents from within
>the USA.  ALso looking for books or magazines that deal with
>cacti and succulents.
>
 
I have found that the best place to mail order cactus plants and seeds is:
         Mesa Garden
         Box 72
         Belen, NM 87002
 
         catalog sent in return for 2 stamps.
 
Their plants are always correctly labeled and in beautiful condition, and their
prices are the lowest around.  Their selection is HUGE!!  Their catalog can
be somewhat intimidating, though - it has no illustrations or common names,
just latin binomials, collection data, and a very brief descriptions.  So it
is helpful to have some illustrated books to look through when you order....
"Cacti" by Clive Innes and Charles Glass is a good place to start.  "Lexicon of
Succulent Plants" by Herman Jacobsen is a classic reference on the non-cactus
succulents, though its illustrations leave something to be desired.
"Succulents: the Illustrated Dictionary" by Sajeva and Costanzo is supposed to
be good, but I haven't seen it yet.  Anyway, you should be able to pick these
up at:
        Rainbow Gardens Bookshop
        1444 E. Taylor st
        Vista, Ca 92084
        catalog = $2.00
 
Finally, you might think about joining the Cactus and Succulent Society of
America  (Box 35034;  DesMoines, Ia 50315-0301)  The society's bi-monthly
journal contains a nice mix of articles on cultivation, taxonomy, conservation,
and ecology.  Membership is ridiculously cheap at 30.00 per year.
 
I hope this helps!
 
                  -Tsunami
                   "Kono you no naka wa sonna ni amakunai!"


From bolducd@ERE.UMontreal.CA Mon Mar  6 10:36:43 EST 1995
Article: 55346 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!CC.UMontreal.CA!bolducd
From: bolducd@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Bolduc Diane)
Subject: Sweetpeas
Message-ID: <D49n37.M01@cc.umontreal.ca>
Sender: news@cc.umontreal.ca (Administration de Cnews)
Organization: Universite de Montreal
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 21:16:17 GMT
Lines: 25
Status: O
X-Status: 

Hi,
   Does anyone have tips on growing sweetpeas in a hanging basket? 
I have tried since the two past years to grom them this way but they died
before the steams reached more then a feet. Fist, I thought I had put too
much peat moss in the soil mix (black soil, peat moss, sand) so they where
too damp I guess. And when they seemed to be healty they wheren't growing
very much even if it was placed in a full sun area. Also, do I have to
stick to dwarf one or it doesn't matter?

Thanks,

Diane
Zone 5 (CAN)
Zone 4-4a (USAD)???

           /^^\\
       ___|____|___
          ( 00 )
------oOO--(__)--OOo--------
| You can post it in the   |
| newsgroup                |
| OR                       |
| e-mail me at:            |
| bolducd@ere.umontreal.ca |
----------------------------


From eaplatt@tuna.hooked.net Mon Mar  6 10:36:44 EST 1995
Article: 55347 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!tuna.hooked.net!not-for-mail
From: eaplatt@tuna.hooked.net (Elizabeth Platt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How about artichokes in Zone 7?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 17:45:18 -0800
Organization: Hooked
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3i8s7e$s0@tuna.hooked.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tuna.hooked.net
Status: O
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marlap1041@aol.com (MarlaP1041) wrote:


>
>I saw artichokes growing at the county fair on Cape Cod 
>(MA) last summer &  they were beautiful! I'm trying 
>them in my garden this summer using seed I  have 
>already started under gro-lights. There's no reason you 
>couldn't grow  them too. Use seeds especially for 
>northern climates. Good luck!        
>Marla

...and the New York Times ran an article about a week or so 
ago, specifically about gardeners growing artichokes "back 
East".  One suggestion was to cold-treat the seeds in the 
fridge or freezer for about six weeks before planting.  If 
anyone is interested in the info, you can e-mail me, and I'll 
either give you the exact date, or excerpt the relevant parts 
of the article for you.  Since I live in artichoke heaven, the 
article caught my eye!

-- eaplatt@hooked.com





From bajones@astro Mon Mar  6 10:36:46 EST 1995
Article: 55348 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!srvr1.flint.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!cmcl2!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones
From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones)
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <D442Hr.EM2@nvl.army.mil>
X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL
Sender: news@nvl.army.mil
Organization: U.S. Army Night Vision & Electronic Sensors
References: <3hojje$cdv@cello.gina.calstate.edu> <3hq9dg$a66@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <destryD42A45.KLK@netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 21:03:26 GMT
Lines: 39
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <destryD42A45.KLK@netcom.com> destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker) writes:
>Adam Finkelstein (adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu) wrote:
>: In article <3hojje$cdv@cello.gina.calstate.edu>,
>: Bruce A. Moon <bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu> wrote:
>
>: >	I go along with the poster who advocated rec.gardens.edible, 
>: >rec.gardens. ornamental and rec.gardens.misc. There is too much crossing 
>: >over between interests with the finer distinctions.
>
>:  What would keep posters from gratuitously crossposting to all these groups?
>:  Adam
>
> _Gratuitously_ crossposting? Jeez, Alex, lighten up! If someone's 
>crossposting to several groups, as long as it doesn't violate any 
>charters, that's his business. If you don't want to reply to him and have 
>it spread across several groups, edit the newsgroups line before you send 
>it. 
>   If someone is posting inappropriately to _any_ group, someone can 
>always politely remind him/her that the subject of this group is 'such 
>and such' and he might want to look elsewhere for the info.


Puh-leeze!

"as long as it doesn't violate the charters"?  When, oh when, are 
you going to get it?  It is always September on the net, there will
always be a newbie who doesn't even have a clue that there *is* a
charter, much less what the charter says.  And of course we all know
that the charters are impossible to enforce, polite reminders or
not.  Your polite reminders will become an end unto themselves,
filling up so much space in the group that the next thing you know
you will be requesting votes for a "rec.gardens.enforce.the.charter"
newsgroup.

-- 
Elizabeth Jones         E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil

"After long thought and much perplexity, to be very brief was all 
that she could determine on with any confidence of safety."  Jane Austen


From macent@mindlink.bc.ca Mon Mar  6 10:36:47 EST 1995
Article: 55349 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!news.mindlink.net!news
From: susan macdonald or kevin o'toole <macent@mindlink.bc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FLORAL SWITCH PLATES!
Date: 20 Feb 1995 00:03:42 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! Communications Corp.
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3i8m8u$nqp@deep.rsoft.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: line17.nwm.mindlink.net
Status: O
X-Status: 

I thought most of you would be interested in my craft.

I make and sell to stores, craft fairs etc. switch plates (backing 
behind your light switches).  These are done be decoupage and finished
with a high gloss varnish.  They look very professional and last 
for years.

One of my top selling switch plates are of flowers (even though I do
just about anything).  If you are looking for a certain type of flower
or just an arrangement I have some beautiful one's for sale.

I do both the older type of switch plates (with small rectangular 
switch in the middle) and the decora type (large rocker switch).  The
prices are very reasonable and start at $5.00 for single and work there
way up for double, triple, etc.

Also have some beautiful handpainted ones done by well known artist 
throughout the U.S. and Canada - Nancy O'Toole.  These also are
washable and start at $10.00 for single.


If you would like some more information please e-mail me at 
"MacEnt@mindlink.bc.ca".  

If you have something else in mind - I have over 100 different subject
materials. 

My hot sellers (besides flowers) are:  Celestial, Victorian, Disney,
Angels, Sports (mainly hockey) and animals.

Talk to you soon.

Susan Macdonald (MACDONALD ENTERPRISES) 


From fettrow.1@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:49 EST 1995
Article: 55350 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!slip1-57.acs.ohio-state.edu!fettrow.1
From: fettrow.1@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu (roger w fettrow)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Opinions on Most Popular Herbs
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 00:13:32 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <fettrow.1.1.2F47DEAB@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3hb0uo$j2k@babylon.gain.com> <3hcaqf$qt5@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip1-57.acs.ohio-state.edu
Summary: Especially for Kezia K
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1]
Status: O
X-Status: 

From: Fettrow C
>Newsgroups: rec.gardens
>Subject: Re: Opinions on Most Popular Herbs
>Date: 19 Feb 1995
>Reply-To: fettrow.1@osu.edu 


>To Kezia K and other "herbies":  I missed the original post too, but am an 
herb lover and grower, and wished to respond to your herb experiences.  We too 
have rosemary indoors in a pot this year.  We've had trouble w/white flies. 

I've grown basil (oscillum bascillum sp?) for four years.  We adore it.  My 
husband and I too make pesto. Love it!  

My oregano has not sprawled, however it hasn't been very potent.  It's next to 
a fence and a bush, is not watered ALOT, and gets almost a day's sun.  Any 
advise?

However, thyme is one of my favorites.  It grows beautifully, smells like 
magic, and makes almost any food item unforgettable.  But help, it's a bit 
hard to harvest off its twigs.    


From pen7cmc@cabell.vcu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:36:50 EST 1995
Article: 55351 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!freenet.vcu.edu!cabell.vcu.edu!not-for-mail
From: pen7cmc@cabell.vcu.edu (Charles M. Castevens)
Newsgroups: alt.stupidity,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: corn
Date: 19 Feb 1995 21:13:07 -0500
Organization: Virginia Commonwealth University
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3i8trj$7el@cabell.vcu.edu>
References: <3i29to$8gi@cabell.vcu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cabell.vcu.edu
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.stupidity:30964 rec.gardens:55351
Status: O
X-Status: 


%% Newsgroups: alt.stupidity,rec.gardens
%% Subject: Re: corn
%% References: <3i29to$8gi@cabell.vcu.edu>
%% 
%% pford@cabell.vcu.edu (Phil D. Ford) writes: 
%% 
%% 
%% I like corn.

yea, well, i liked it before you did.


2:30 snack?



From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:51 EST 1995
Article: 55352 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Most beloved plant
Date: 19 Feb 1995 16:44:39 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 8
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3i8e47$875@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <sbegley.48.2F464CEB@voicenet.com>
Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

i agree. each season has it's own beloved plant. in spring it's the
combination of huge white maureen tulips and my bleeding heart. next comes
my deepe purple bearded iris and the foxgloves. for midsummer my
liatrus/cosmos combo is almost beat by my orange asclepsia (perennial
butterfloy bush) and my purple balloon flower. late summer my snapdragons
and cleomes are a standout. i wouldn't want a stagnant garden! i love the
changes, the new discoveries almost every day. i can't wait until april!!!
tigibson


From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:36:53 EST 1995
Article: 55353 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Any butterfly gardeners out there?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 16:49:19 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3i8ecv$88l@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3i66pd$l1f@ns.oar.net>
Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

i get a fair amount of butterflies in my garden, but i want MORE. does
anyone have any suggestions for host plants that will attract the
caterpillars? i would share some foliage with them.
ps: try purple liatrus in your gardens, those really attract the
butterflies.
tigibson


From ak355@lafn.org Mon Mar  6 10:36:54 EST 1995
Article: 55354 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.bluesky.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.alpha.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!amd!netcomsv!lafn.org!lafn.org!ak355
From: ak355@lafn.org (Richard Goczal)
Subject: Any More Weavers in the Garden ?
Message-ID: <1995Feb17.211535.26386@lafn.org>
Sender: news@lafn.org
Nntp-Posting-Host: lafn.org
Reply-To: ak355@lafn.org (Richard Goczal)
Organization: The Los Angeles Free-Net
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 21:15:35 GMT
Lines: 11
Status: O
X-Status: 


If you handweave, a group of 60 weavers have united.  If you
would like to be part of the group, send the following to me:

your name, e-mail address, loom brands you own

Bye,
Lili Goczal
ak355@lafn.org

-- 


From nstn2392@fox.nstn.ca Mon Mar  6 10:36:58 EST 1995
Article: 55355 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!halifax-ts1-48.nstn.ca!user
From: nstn2392@fox.nstn.ca (Braid/Mandale)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: H Pepper seedlings - top / trim?
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 19 Feb 1995 09:26:29 -0400
Organization: ChesterNS
Lines: 32
Sender: news@nstn.ns.ca
Message-ID: <nstn2392-190295052727@halifax-ts1-48.nstn.ca>
References: <3hmef6$o49@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Status: O
X-Status: 


We find that all kinds of different peppers grow to different sizes - it is
not surprising the habeneros are behaving - they tend to be bushy and
stocky anyway.  You should probably try "pinching" out the tops of at least
half of the other peppers to see if that will slow them down - also
providing a cooler environment will slow them down...we live in Nova Scotia
Canada and start our peppers in February/March to go outside in June - hope
this helps.

In article <3hmef6$o49@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, breenmt@aol.com (BREENMT)
wrote:


> I think I started some of my Hot Peppers a little too early and now find
> myself with some Hungarians, Anehiems and native Arbols that seem (to me)
> a little large considering that it is still feb.!  
> 
> Questions is... should I top them and let them branch out?  My lighting
> stand can only go up to 10-14 inches from ground up.  The Habeneros are
> behaving themselves quite nicely... but these others... well... live and
> learn about planting times...
> 
> Can I top these guys and still have a nice crop or do I have to build
> another stand that allows a little more latitude?
> 
> Any pointers from pepper folks would be 'mucho appreciated'.
> 
> Michael  :-()  Mas calor, sabor y olor - Just a saying in Jalisco, MX

-- 
Goodbye from 
Braid/Mandale


From nstn2392@fox.nstn.ca Mon Mar  6 10:36:59 EST 1995
Article: 55356 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!halifax-ts1-48.nstn.ca!user
From: nstn2392@fox.nstn.ca (Braid/Mandale)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Garden Clubs
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 19 Feb 1995 09:34:14 -0400
Organization: ChesterNS
Lines: 13
Sender: news@nstn.ns.ca
Message-ID: <nstn2392-190295053401@halifax-ts1-48.nstn.ca>
Status: O
X-Status: 

Our Programming Committee of the Chester Garden Club are looking for new
ideas for our club.  Here in Chester, Nova Scotia we have a very active
garden club which for the past 55 years has been encouraging beauty in and
around our village.  We look after two parks, bring in speakers and have
workshops to do with gardening.  We have "open gardens" where visitors can
stop by and really get a good look at the garden. Each year we also hold a
flower show in July where we get alot of entries of arrangements, specimens
and houseplants.  Is there anyone out there who has an unusual or novel
idea you have used successfully in your garden club?

-- 
Goodbye from 
Braid/Mandale


From 1420@fox.nstn.ns.ca Mon Mar  6 10:37:01 EST 1995
Article: 55357 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!nstn.ns.ca!nntp-user
From: john h milligan <1420@fox.nstn.ns.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Ornamental Grasses
Date: 19 Feb 1995 15:10:14 -0400
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Can anyone tell me of any seed (or gardening) companies that specialize
in ornamental grasses. I am looking to buy cuttings  (or seeds) for
blue fescue, maiden, purple fountain and pampas grasses. Also yellow
groove and siberian bamboo. Anywhere in Canada or the U.S. will do. 


From bgreen1229@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:02 EST 1995
Article: 55358 of rec.gardens
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From: bgreen1229@aol.com (BGreen1229)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: use of dormant spray on plum trees in AZ
Date: 19 Feb 1995 16:53:36 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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thanks alot for your advice. do you have any tips at all about growing
okra in the    tuscon/low desert area?                                    
                                              bert.











From tigibson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:03 EST 1995
Article: 55359 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!infoseek.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nasturiums
Date: 19 Feb 1995 17:02:06 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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i am totally in love with these plants. i've only grown the climbing ones,
but this year i ordered two other kinds of seeds (peaches and cream being
one of them.)
my only problem is leaf miners (these pests like my columbine leaves too.)
last year i planted them around my deck. two vines went under my porch &
up through the slats right next to my back door! my deck was nasturtum
heaven.
i love their blooms (try the bright orange ones with blue forget-me-nots).
but the leaves themselves are the most attractive foliage i've ever grown.
tigibson


From am185@lafn.org Mon Mar  6 10:37:05 EST 1995
Article: 55360 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!netcomsv!lafn.org!lafn.org!am185
From: am185@lafn.org (Ronald Nicholas)
Subject: gophers as in 4-legged
Message-ID: <1995Feb14.191100.18816@lafn.org>
Sender: news@lafn.org
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Reply-To: am185@lafn.org (Ronald Nicholas)
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Date: Tue, 14 Feb 1995 19:11:00 GMT
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Help!  Have tried traps, poison pellets, gopher plants and cursing. they 
still love us.  Does anything work?


From rostriker@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:06 EST 1995
Article: 55361 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rostriker@aol.com (ROstriker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: Garden catalogs
Date: 19 Feb 1995 21:29:48 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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I have had good experiences with :
Raintree Nursery/391 Butts Rd./Morton, WA  98356
Stark Bro's/PO Box 10/Louisiana MO   63353-0010

Also, I am planning to order from Van Bourgondien's and would like to know
anyone's experiences with them.  Any info is helpful--thanks.

Rebecca


From mstrbrewer@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:08 EST 1995
Article: 55362 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: mstrbrewer@aol.com (MstrBrewer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Growing Hops
Date: 19 Feb 1995 17:18:48 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Does anyone have experience growing hops for home brewing??  I like in
Washington, D.C. (which is Zone 7 I think) and need whatever help I can
get - I have a pretty good flower garden going but have never experimented
with hops before.  Any tips, beginners' assistance, etc. would be greatly
appreciated!  e-mail or newsgroup post is fine.  Thanks -  Irene


From gad2@cornell.edu Mon Mar  6 10:37:10 EST 1995
Article: 55363 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user
From: gad2@cornell.edu (Gary A Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Growing Hops
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 21:49:45 -0500
Organization: Cornell University
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In article <3i8g48$8lk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, mstrbrewer@aol.com
(MstrBrewer) wrote:

: Does anyone have experience growing hops for home brewing??  I like in
: Washington, D.C. (which is Zone 7 I think) and need whatever help I can
: get - I have a pretty good flower garden going but have never experimented
: with hops before.  Any tips, beginners' assistance, etc. would be greatly
: appreciated!  e-mail or newsgroup post is fine.  Thanks -  Irene

Once you get it started, look out!  Best to give it plenty of room, and
something to climb on.  Additionally, hops is very, very difficult to
remove if you decide you don't want it.  I spent the better part of the
past summer chopping out the shoots that kept coming up, even after
digging down several feet to remove the majority of the roots.
Other than that, you shouldn't have any trouble in zone 7....

best of luck,
gary
-- 
Gary A. Davis
gad2@cornell.edu
Floriculture and Ornamental Horticulture, Cornell University


From sandrap@dragon.achilles.net Mon Mar  6 10:37:11 EST 1995
Article: 55364 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!fonorola!achilles!dragon.achilles.net!not-for-mail
From: sandrap@dragon.achilles.net (Sandra Hoffman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 17:01:50 -0500
Organization: Achilles Internet Limited, Nepean, ON
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <3i8f4e$c87@dragon.achilles.net>
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dragon.achilles.net
Status: O
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In article <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>,
Gary Cooper <cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>Sherry is also quite right to point out that these proposals do *not*
>come about due to excessive traffic - they come from three sorts of people:
>those who cannot be bothered to learn to use the software available
>to scan the posts, 

I use and know how to use a threaded reader.

>or whose servers expire after absurdly short periods,

I do not have a problem keeping up with the expiry times on my server.

>*or* those who are not, really, gardeners at all, but are just people 
>whose hobby is growing one type of plant. There *is* a difference. 

Hmm, I grow flowers and vegetables on a 50 by 50 rented plot, have
a small herb and ornamental garden around my townhouse, and have about 
twenty indoor plants. Do I qualify as a gardener, really?

I'm in favour of splitting the group to at least indoor, misc, and 
organic, and would prefer to see misc split to edible and ornamental. 
Then instead of spending 2/3 of my time deleting posts I am not 
interested in, I could go to the groups I am most interested in first and 
save the topics I am least interested in for the days when I have extra 
time. As it is at least half the time I find myself catching up the group 
without reading any of it. Because the thought of coming in and weeding 
through 50-100 posts I'm not interested in to get to the ten or twelve 
conversations I'm interested in is just too much. As a result I rarely get 
enough continuity to get involved in discussions.

This group is one of the few I find that having a threaded newsreader 
does not help with. So few of the topics actually develop into threads. 
Most of the time when I enter the group there are at most one or two 
threads that have more than two articles in.


sph

ps I am not in favour of the current proposal for a plant.* hierarchy 
currently under discussion in news.groups.

-- 
sandrap@dragon.achilles.net


From kc@tiac.net Mon Mar  6 10:37:13 EST 1995
Article: 55365 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!kc.tiac.net!user
From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horticulture database
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 22:45:40 -0500
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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Message-ID: <kc-1902952245400001@kc.tiac.net>
References: <3hrv20$hpg@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <3i68a1$pt2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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In article <3i68a1$pt2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, philseib@aol.com (PhilSeib)
wrote:

> Garden Database...  I have begun something similar - but using Filemaker
> Pro (MAC, but runs on MAC-Wannabees as well).  Tedious and time
> consuming...  I can appreciate anyone who has accomplished this before and
> would also be quite willing to  buy one when found...

Have you tried 'PlantBase 1.5'? It's a FileMakerPro database of over 1,000
plants (mostly woodies, vines, etc.) that I downloaded about a year ago
from your very own AOL FileMaker area. I liked it so I bought the full
version, and now that I tweaked it to suit my needs I love it! Simple
design, works well. Try the keyword "FILEMAKER" at AOL

I don't know if the folks who wrote it are still around - -they haven't
responded to recent email but they are:

Intuitive Workings
IntuitWork@AOL.com
303-973-2837

I'd send you the demo but I trashed it long ago. Along with AOL (not that
there's anything wrong with AOL). Nothing's the same after you've drunk
from the Net with a SLIP/PPP firehose...

Kevin


From nmclaug@cello.gina.calstate.edu Mon Mar  6 10:37:14 EST 1995
Article: 55366 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!cello.gina.calstate.edu!usenet
From: Neil McLaughlin <nmclaug@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden Design Program Wanted
Date: 20 Feb 1995 03:39:50 GMT
Organization: English Teacher
Lines: 4
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3i92u6$eiq@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
References: <3i44fi$kpq@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
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Is there any place on the net, that I can download the program? What are
the pro's and con's of the program, too? I'm new at this so please
forgive my ignorance.
Samantha McLaughlin


From lcp7a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU Mon Mar  6 10:37:15 EST 1995
Article: 55367 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU!lcp7a
From: lcp7a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Louise C. Putnam-Stoner)
Subject: Heather info needed, Zone 6
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: faraday.clas.virginia.edu
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Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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I would like to grow heather (erica or calluna) here in
Charlottesville, VA (central VA).  Summers are hot (usually
90's for several weeks) and humid in the early summer, then dry
in August. Microclimate may be a bit warmer than average Zone
6-- I am thinking of a South-facing U-shaped area surrounded on
3 sides by my house.  Soil here is acidic, which I gather is
good.  Deer a problem although they might not want to come into
this u-shaped area (wishful thinking)... any comments on
whether deer like heather would be appreciated.

My goal is a sort of memorial garden to a Scottish woman who
was a second mother to me... nothing morbid, rather a
celebration of something she held dear.  Any info would be
appreciated-- even direction to a different newsgroup if I am
in the wrong place.  I'm a novice 'netter.   

Thanks in advance.


From afthrs!channing.prothro@afthrs.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:18 EST 1995
Article: 55368 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!blanket.mitre.org!agate!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!afthrs!channing.prothro
From: afthrs!channing.prothro@afthrs.com (CHANNING PROTHRO)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: GARDEN TOOL SUPPLIERS
Message-ID: <8A3950D.00DA00180A.uuout@afthrs.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 95 21:33:00 -600
Distribution: world
Organization: After Hours BBS - 214-495-8487 | 24 Lines & 30 GIGS On-Line
Reply-To: afthrs!channing.prothro@afthrs.com (CHANNING PROTHRO)
References: <8A314CF.00DA0017D6.uuout@afthrs.com>
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LM>My husband and I were thinking of ordering some tools/supplies from the
LM>A.M Leonard, Inc catalog.  We were impressed by the selection and the
LM>prices seem good.  Does anyone have any experience ordering from them? 
LM>Thanks in advance for any information!

I've dealt with them for a number of years. You can't go wrong with them. The
tools are all top knotch, and made for real gardeners. :) Good luck

Channing
---
 * MR/2 2.0 NR * 


From tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU Mon Mar  6 10:37:19 EST 1995
Article: 55369 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!tme9u
From: tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (teresa m. esch)
Subject: Re: test message!! do not read!
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: galen.med.virginia.edu
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I didn't read it until I saw it had a couple of responses and
figured there must be something more to it!

t
--
 


From bgoogle@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:20 EST 1995
Article: 55370 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Date: 19 Feb 1995 19:01:29 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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I too have resisted responding to all this Martha Stewart stuff, but can't
resist.  I like to watch her occasionally because, in a perfect world, I
would have that $$, all those ideas, and be able to garden flawlessly in
white slacks.  Since I can't, it alternates between being interesting and
being a hoot!


From jgtusciu@mtu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:37:21 EST 1995
Article: 55371 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp.et.byu.edu!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msunews!news.mtu.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail
From: jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: POISON OAK
Date: 19 Feb 1995 18:55:09 -0500
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3i8lot$nc@werner.cs.mtu.edu>
References: <3hjlrf$8ac@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3hltjj$gss@news1.databank.com> <3hqos9$76j@gazoo.sdd.comsat.com> <sbegley.44.2F4642BD@voicenet.com>
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Steven M. Begley (sbegley@voicenet.com) wrote:

[snip]

: I answered someone a few weeks ago about Poison Ivy. Poison Oak is not native 
: to this area, however, if memory serves, Poison Ivy is Toxidendron toxifolia, 
: and Poison Oak is Toxidendron quecifolia. (People in the discussion about 
: botanical names, take note: Toxideldron (self explanatory)  quercus (Oak) 
: folia (leafed)

[snip]

I recall reading that poison ivy and poison oak are one and the same,
but take different growth habits depending on habitat.  The evidence
was that cuttings taken from a poison ivy plant produced BOTH poison
ivy and poison oak depending on the environment the cuttings were
grown in.

John Tusciuk
jgtusciu@cs.mtu.edu


From mfrost@primenet.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:23 EST 1995
Article: 55372 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!msunews!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip048.lax.primenet.com!mfrost
From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 20:29:43 PST
Organization: Primenet
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Message-ID: <mfrost.288.0058CEA8@primenet.com>
References: <3i0kra$917@ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca>
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In article <3i0kra$917@ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca> bdoucett@uoguelph.ca (Bruce L Doucette) writes:
>From: bdoucett@uoguelph.ca (Bruce L Doucette)
>Subject: Martha Stewart
>Date: 16 Feb 1995 22:50:18 GMT

>Long Live Martha.....

>Its a Good Thing
What I especially like about her is that her name is now a household word. I 
grew up in an age of "Marsha, Margaret, Mary". Such an old-fashioned name, 
people would say, blinking at me as though some other name was forthcoming. 
Yeah, I think it's a Good Thing, too. 
Regards, Martha
mfrost@primenet.com


From wjones@halcyon.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:24 EST 1995
Article: 55373 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!news1.halcyon.com!chinook!wjones
From: wjones@chinook.halcyon.com (Warren Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Cotyledon ladismithensis
Date: 20 Feb 1995 03:58:14 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3i940m$sse@news1.halcyon.com>
Reply-To: wjones@halcyon.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: chinook.halcyon.com
Summary: Seeking advice on care and feeding of Cotyledon ladismithensis
Keywords: Cotyledon ladismithensis
Status: O
X-Status: 


I have a Cotyledeon ladismithenis growing in a south window.
It's about 12" (30cm) tall, with woody stems.  Last year it
produced some small cream colored flowers, much to my pleasure
and surprise, but lately it's been in a bit of a decline --
not dying perhaps, but looking wan and dropping leaves.

Have you grown this plant, or similar succulents?  I'd be
grateful for any advice.  Or if not advice, maybe just anecdotes
or reminiscenses ...  (The common name slips my mind, but
I think it has "paws" in it, which is what the succulent
leaves look like.)

--
Warren Jones         | To keep every cog and wheel is the first precaution
Seattle, Washington  | of intelligent tinkering.           -- Aldo Leopold


From Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca Mon Mar  6 10:37:25 EST 1995
Article: 55374 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!news.mindlink.net!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331
From: Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Moira Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 16:37:06 -0800
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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Distribution: world
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NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.net
Status: O
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In article <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com>, robinson@ichips.intel.com
(David Lyle Robinson) writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com>
> Posted: 18 Feb 95 00:30:05 GMT
>
> Org.  : Intel Corporation
>
> I recently looked at a booklett written by Jerry Baker
> that suggests using epsom salts as a spring soil preparation.
> It even suggests using it in potting soil for starting
> transplants.  In other places, the booklett suggests using
> dish soap and instant tea as a fertilizer.
>
> Has anyone ever heard of this, and if so what is in
> these that makes it work?  Sounds like a bunch of
> unfounded hocus-pocus claims to me, but I'm open
> to learning new tricks.
>
> Thanks,
> David Robinson
>


I have no idea about the instant tea and soap, but I can tell you about the
Epsom Salts.  Epsom Salts is magnesium sulphate.  I imagine it depends on
where you live, but our soils here on the wet coast (due to heavy rainfall)
are almost always deficient in this.

It is used by a lot of the Rose Society folk - 1/4 cup per rose in the
spring.  For potted plants mix 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.

Cheers,
Moira


From bgoogle@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:26 EST 1995
Article: 55375 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!infoseek.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Date: 19 Feb 1995 19:06:19 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3i8mdr$a91@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3i8f4e$c87@dragon.achilles.net>
Reply-To: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

As long as the categories are such that all interests can be accomodated
and I can still continue to read and respond to what I want to, I don't
really care.  I don't know if I'm missing something,  but it seems to me
that I can still have the variety by subscribing to all the resultant
newsgroups.  Is this correct?


From bgoogle@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:28 EST 1995
Article: 55376 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!hookup!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nasturiums
Date: 19 Feb 1995 19:13:34 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE)
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Aphids, Huh?  Boy, I guess I've been lucky.  Never had them in all these
years.  Keeping fingers crossed


From nancyr@cc.usu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:37:29 EST 1995
Article: 55377 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!newshost.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!cc.usu.edu!nancyr
From: nancyr@cc.usu.edu (Nancy Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Blue Gramma Grass seedheads???
Message-ID: <1995Feb19.215142.42251@cc.usu.edu>
Date: 19 Feb 95 21:51:42 MDT
Organization: USU Computer Services, Academic Services Office
Lines: 19
Status: O
X-Status: 

The local extensions agents are suggesting (among others) blue
gramma grass as a good alternative to kentucky bluegrass, for 
both it's wear-ability and drought tolerance.  I've been
considering putting it in at least one area--my dog's run.
I'm a bit concerned about the seedheads, though.  The books
i've read say they are "1/2 inch curved" rather pretty...
I need to know if they're hard and sharp, or soft and
feathery. I'm concerned that if I let the grass get long
enough (12"???) to go to seed, and the seeds are hard/sharp,
I'll have dogs with seeds stuck in their sinuses or in between
the pads of their paws.  Has anyone ever seen/felt these seed 
heads?  Can you describe them for me? (nb I realize that I 
could just keep the stuff mowed and not worry about it, but
the chances of that happening with all the other stuff to
worry about around the yard are kindof slim.)

nancy
Logan, UT Zone 4
nancyr@cc.usu.edu


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:31 EST 1995
Article: 55378 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!news.hawaii.edu!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Message-ID: <destryD49u0p.6ou@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> <3i30ch$ip1@news.bu.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 23:46:01 GMT
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Sherry Bailey (slbailey@bu.edu) wrote:
: Fellwalker (destry@netcom.com) wrote:

: :    You don't call up to 350 posts every other day excessive traffic?! 
: : Firstly, I use a threaded newsreader and I _do_ know how to use it...it 
: : still took me 3 hours to get through this newsgroup when I was away for 2 
: : days. Suggestions to scan over posts with a threaded newsreader don't 
: : apply for people who _are_ interested in reading a wide variety of topics 
...snip..
: I THINK we are all reading the same newsgroup here.  I don't find 350 posts
: every other day... and after a while, you don't read everything because so
: much is repeated every few weeks that you have already learned it or are no
: longer interested.  Having several small groups will only compound the

   After being offline for 22 hours...friday night to Sunday 
morning....there were 310 _threads_ with new postings, some multiple, in 
rec.gardens. That means there were more than 310 new posts in the past 22 
hours, and while there's always a spurt in new posts on Saturdays, I there 
will usually be a couple hundred new posts in that amount of time.

: problem.  (I don't know why you keep challenging the knowledge of the people
: who have watched this phenemenon in other split-up newsgroups -- do you think
: we are LYING when we predict trouble? I've been on thenet for seven years now,
: and I know of some people who were here before I was -- we KNOW whereof we speak!)

    My knowledge and observations are as different from yours as yours 
are to the next guys. The amount of time you've spent on the 'Net doesn't 
guarantee your expertise or make you capable of forseeing the future. I 
am not a 'Newbie' and refuse to have _my_ opinions written off on the 
basis that I may not have been around as long as you have. If I didn't 
care to hear your opinions I never would have asked to hear them (in my 
posts querying about reorganization). 

: Yep, you definitely have the right to SUGGEST a reorganization -- just as the
: rest of us have the right to streuously oppose it.  I'm sorry people lose

    Go ahead...oppose whatever ideas you are against. I just despise 
rebuttals to a persons proposal (such as Mr.Sexton's) that take the form 
of a personal attack on whoever's proposing the idea, instead of being 
directed against the idea itself.

   What was left out of your post (which I'm replying to now) is that I 
_was not replying to YOUR post_ The comments of mine that you used, 
supposedly in answer to you, were from a response to a post by Gary 
(Cooper?). You edited it down to look as though I was responding 
specifically to you, when I was actually responding to his post (which 
was a followup to yours)

    In that post it was implied that everyone who tries to reorganize 
re.gardens is either lazy, doesn't know how to use their newsreader, or 
isn't a "real" gardener.
: :   I don't know what you're trying to get at with your last
: : statement...that people who want a plant specific newsgroup should just 
: : read rec.gardens? What? People in rec.gardens.roses may grow only one 
: : type of plant, does that mean they aren't really gardeners? Or that they 
: : shouldn't have a specific rose newsgroup?

: I don't know what "my last statement" was, but from your remarks here, I
: assume you are referring to my opinion that there should be VERY few

    Probably because I wasn't responding to your post. If you hadn't 
edited out Mr. Coopers post, you would have clearly seen I was 
responding to HIS last statement.

: :    While I don't agree with his 'plant' hierarchy idea, please realize 
: : there are more than a few people who _would_ like to see some sort of 
: : reorganization....and their views are just as valid as yours. It is 
: : unfair to arbitrarily lump them into groups and dismiss them.

: I disagree.  Everybody has the right to state their opinion, but I don't
: accept that every idea is equally valid.  Some ideas stink!  MY OPINION is

   I didn't say that every idea is equally valid. I said that everyones 
views are equally valid. Yes, to me, the rec.plants idea stinks, but Mr. 
Sexton's view (belief, opinion, whatever) that there should be a 
rec.plants hierarchy is just as valid as my opinion that there shouldn't.


: And once more I want to comment to other newbies -- I think you ought to pay
: special attention to those of us who have been here a long time -- we have
: seen irrevocable mistakes made in other newsgroups, and we KNOW WHAT WILL
: HAPPEN! This experiment has been done before.  If we split IT WILL GET WORSE.

     Get off your "newbie" kick. There are other ways to express your 
opinion without trying to demean others. I am not a newbie, but I still 
resent a "holier than thou" attitude when it's thrown in my face. 
    I am perfectly capable of listening to your opinions and information 
based on the fact that you are an individual with an opinion...I don't 
write off the opinions of people on the basis that they're "Newbies", or 
may not have as much Usenet experience as I do.

    Again, I was not able to reply to much of your post because you 
edited out Mr Coopers post (that I had responded to). Without that, my 
comments didn't make sense.

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:32 EST 1995
Article: 55379 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Message-ID: <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> <793053149snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 00:36:50 GMT
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Sender: destry@netcom15.netcom.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Gary Cooper (Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: In article <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> destry@netcom.com "Fellwalker" writes:

: <much deleted to save bandwidth>

: >    You don't call up to 350 posts every other day excessive traffic?! 
: > Firstly, I use a threaded newsreader and I _do_ know how to use it...it 
: > still took me 3 hours to get through this newsgroup when I was away for 2 
...snip

: Actually, no I don't. Living in England *many* of the posts to
: this group are completely irrelevant to me, and scanning past those
: threads takes fractions of a second. 350 posts really doesn't seem
: like a great number to me - unless one is attempting to read, and maybe
: even respond, to nearly all of them. Quite why it took you three
: hours to get through two days posts I can't imagine. 

     Many people _don't_ scan over most of the posts, because they don't 
find them irrelevant. For those people, subdividing rec.gardens would 
make it easier to scan through groups of related subjects, instead of 
scanning through one great pile of everything. It takes me three hours to 
get through posts because I have to sort and read and sort and read....

: But, if you, too, are a generalist, interested in reading about 
: everything, how will fragmentation help? You'll still want to read all 
: these posts - and splitting will simply increase the number of them as 
: newbies inevitably use a shotgun approach with their questions.

     If I'm looking for info about vegetable gardening (for example) it 
would probably be quicker to find it in rec.gardens.misc.edible or 
whatever, instead of scanning through floweres, trees, pt lumber,etc. If 
I'm just scanning for interesting subjects, it would be quicker scanning 
through a group of more closely related subjects than a very general group.
   (example, would you think that "comp.sys" should be the only comp.sys 
group with no further division? Or rec.sports?)
    Newbies are only ignorant, _not_ stupid. They learn by their mistakes 
and stop making them. rec.gardens.roses and rec.gardens.orchids have 
hardly gone down under a barrage of cross posts.

: >    Secondly, are you suggesting that for the people who's sites don't 
: > hold posts very long, they're just outta luck? That they don't have the 
: > right to suggest a reorganization because it would better enable them to 
: > take part in gardening newsgroups?

: In a word: yes. The net isn't going to get *smaller* and it isn't going
: to get easier for underfunded or lazy site operators to handle. 
: Inevitably, all suppliers are going to have to upgrade their equipment
: and service levels. This isn't an *option*, it is being forced on all
: of us as we try to keep up while the whole system grows at a rate no 
: one can control.

: Would you rather that the development of the net was held back, or forced 
: into contortions, on account of those sites who were unable or unwilling 
: to improve their facilities? In the case of expiry times we aren't
: talking about a great deal more than larger storage facilities, which
: are far from the most expensive items going to be required over the
: next few years. How far would you propose going to accomodate sites
: with limited facilities? 

    rec.gardens reorganization would hold back the development of the 
'Net? How many new newsgroups were you given a choice of when you signed 
on today? (I had about 10 or so.)
  
...snip...
: >    While I don't agree with his 'plant' hierarchy idea, please realize 
: > there are more than a few people who _would_ like to see some sort of 
: > reorganization....and their views are just as valid as yours. It is 
: > unfair to arbitrarily lump them into groups and dismiss them.

: Breaking objections down into component elements is a good way of finding
: whether there are valid points being made. No one has challenged the
: points raised by Sherry, Kay Klier, myself and others as to
: *why* these proposals have been made - they have simply expanded on
: them - which is fine and shows that the reduction has served its
: purpose. It's hardly 'lumping them into groups' - it's an attempt at
: analysis on the hoof :-). From there, those points have been disagreed 
: with, not "dismissed".

     My reference to 'lumping into groups' was because of your statements 
about what sort of people want to reorganize rec.gardens, breaking down 
into something like, People who are too lazy to scan, people who don't 
know how to use their newsreaders (to scan), and 'non-gardeners'. I am 
not lazy, or I wouldn't be putting the work into the rec.gardens proposal 
that I have. I know darn well how to use my (threaded) newsreader, and I 
am most certainly a gardener. 
    Whatever Mr. Sexton's reasons are behind his rec.plants proposal, it 
is unfair to him, and to anyone else putting forward any proposal, to 
dismiss him on those grounds, instead of by disagreement with the proposal 
itself. 

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz Mon Mar  6 10:37:34 EST 1995
Article: 55380 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news.starnet.net!wupost!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!gcs.co.nz!amigans!surrey.wanganui.gen.nz!lynx
From: lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: REQUEST: indoor vines?
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <lynx.04wk@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz>
References:  <2a6_9502170603@nisc.fidonet.org>
Date: 20 Feb 95 22:30:58 GMT-12
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand
Lines: 23
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <2a6_9502170603@nisc.fidonet.org> Doug.Vogt@f638.n2605.z1.fidonet.org (Doug Vogt) writes:
>In a msg on <Feb 10 13:32>, afsan@io.org of 1:1/31 writes:
> a> Hello!  Could anyone suggest a vine/hanging plant for my office?  

>Hoya purpurea, though not strictly a vine, sends out long cames that will
>curl around just about anything and has strongly scented purple and white
>flowers. Sorry I can't find a printed reference to this species. 
>H. bella is more common and makes a nice, smaller hanging plant. Mine
>hangs down about 2 feet below the top of the pot. H. Purpurea will hang
>down four feet or more but they can be trained up toward the ceiling. 

  Hoya bella make great hanger palnts, 'specially if you can take
  time out to lay back and ogle the squadrens of flowers.  I'd be a bit
  careful of the hoya vines tho', not because the aren't fabulous,
  but because some tend to dribble nectar out of the flowers.

  Fancy nice sticky nectar on your antique bokhara?  

  Well, on the other hand, mature sized, quality flowering hoyas are 
  hard to find, antique persian carpets can be found in any corner store.

--
lynx@wanganui.gen.nz


From lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz Mon Mar  6 10:37:35 EST 1995
Article: 55381 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news.starnet.net!wupost!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!gcs.co.nz!amigans!surrey.wanganui.gen.nz!lynx
From: lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Is there a tissue culture expert in the house?
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <lynx.04wm@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz>
Date: 20 Feb 95 22:45:21 GMT-12
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand
Lines: 13
Status: O
X-Status: 

  Just back from crushing an african violet under the heel
  of my sabot...

  Pray tell, gentle netoids, is it true that tissue culture
  of plants can be carried out at the kitchen table using care,
  simple, household chemicals and a certain amount of expertise;
  or is it strictly for mega-sterile lab conditions filled with
  white-coated genius types who've never actually seen dirt?

  Please, share your experience.

--
lynx@wanganui.gen.nz


From 76533.757@CompuServe.COM Mon Mar  6 10:37:36 EST 1995
Article: 55382 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Roz Garland <76533.757@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hot Pepper Plant Problems.
Date: 17 Feb 1995 05:25:45 GMT
Organization: via CompuServe Information Service
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <3i1c0p$s1e$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>
References: <3hvp3p$ol4@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>
Status: O
X-Status: 

In this area (zone 7b in north Texas) , peppers grow much better 
in warmer temperatures (like 85 and above).  They do need water, 
of course, but drainage is important because they will not do 
well when their "feet" stay wet.  I grow mine on raised beds, and 
have more jalapenos than we can pickle!  Good luck!
Roz


From heverlyj@ccnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:38 EST 1995
Article: 55383 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!msunews!uwm.edu!caen!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!ccnet.com!ccnet.com!not-for-mail
From: heverlyj@ccnet.com (Jerry Heverly)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poor Soil
Date: 16 Feb 1995 21:23:57 -0800
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3i1btd$87j@ccnet3.ccnet.com>
References: <3hug87$brv@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccnet3
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Status: O
X-Status: 

Jeck1 (jeck1@aol.com) wrote:
: I just moved to this house last year and my garden was pathetic. The spot
: I choose for a garden had lots of sand, was acidic, and little topsoil.
: I've been saving compost, but the garden's big and my compost will take a
: long time to catch up. The surrounding trees have lots of Oaks, so it
: contributes to the acid.
: I am contemplating hauling in some horse manue, but I've always dreaded
: that because of the weeds. I usually try to stay as much organic as
: possible, but we wasted a lot of time last year with this soil. I've heard
: that composting the manue can kill the seeds but have never tried it. Any
: Ideas?
If your pile is hot(generally at least one cubic yard in size with a good 
C:N ratio) you'll kill your weed seeds.
Jerry Heverly, Instr. of hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA
-- 


Jerry Heverly, Oakland, CA


From kpayne@interserv.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:39 EST 1995
Article: 55384 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: kpayne@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need Advice on Incense Cedar
Date: 20 Feb 1995 06:09:26 GMT
Organization: NovX InterServ News Service
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3i9bmm$3pu@data.interserv.net>
References: <bebrjec.35.2F4259F6@bebr.bus.utah.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 165.121.2.208
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)
Status: O
X-Status: 

>   bebrjec@bebr.bus.utah.edu (Jan Cripsin-Little) writes:
>  Has anyone had experience with growing Libocedrus (Red or Incense Cedar).  I 
>  am looking for a columnar tree for a small (44 x 66) yard and I like the 
>  green pencil shape of the incense cedar.  On drawback -- all the literature 
>  I can find indicates it can grow to 150 feet.  
>  
>>>>
We have a beautiful red cedar in our backyard at the end of the lot.
It's magnificent and majestic and NOT PRUNED!  Please don't plant one
of these giants only to "whack" off its top.  If you appreciate their beauty
you will never be satisfied with the result of distorting the scale and
proportion by pruning.  Instead plant something that won't grow as tall
but has the same columnar shape you're looking for.  Weeping Alaska cedars 
and Atlas cedars are some examples.  There are many, many others that when
at full height will give you the splendor and scale you want without the
disfiguration.

 
Kathryn Payne
kpayne@interserv.com




From Jan_Forbes@gbrmpa.gov.au Mon Mar  6 10:37:41 EST 1995
Article: 55385 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!rahul.net!a2i!news.clark.net!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!msunews!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au!marlin.jcu.edu.au!mac36.macnet1.gbrmpa.gov.au!Jan_Forbes
From: Jan Forbes <Jan_Forbes@gbrmpa.gov.au>
Subject: Re: REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Message-ID: <1995Feb20.015345.7456@marlin.jcu.edu.au>
X-Xxmessage-Id: <AB6E339CD8030224@mac36.macnet1.gbrmpa.gov.au>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 20 Feb 95 11:55:08 GMT
Sender: news@marlin.jcu.edu.au (USENET News System)
Organization: Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority
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References: <61982.jware@cdpa.state.ms.us>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 01:53:45 GMT
Lines: 11
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <61982.jware@cdpa.state.ms.us> James Ware,
jware@cdpa.state.ms.us writes:
>Cyberspace is unlimited. They (Australians, israelis, etc) can grow
their own.

How exceeedingly selfish - I hope, if you have any non-endemic plants in
your garden, that they become magically motile and return to their
countries of origin, and that your own native plants would be too ashamed
to grow in the places they've  deserted. I guess racial biggots don't
grow exotic plants though - they probably begrudge them the soil, water
and nutrients! What ever happenned to the 'global village'?


From kidkaos@uslink.net Mon Mar  6 10:37:43 EST 1995
Article: 55386 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!newshost.uslink.net!pp5
From: kidkaos@uslink.net (pete hanson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Jewelweed
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 18:28:05 GMT
Organization: US Link Communications
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3i9hbf$bqq@newshost.uslink.net>
References: <3h6kk4$f4p@morrow.stanford.edu> <1995Feb8.141805.5384@leo.vsla.edu> <D46FML.pCE@ns1.nodak.edu> <3i75ru$2vb@news.sas.ab.ca>
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thacker@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca () wrote:
>David R Givers (givers@badlands.NoDak.edu) wrote:
>: Bess Haile (bhaile@leo.vsla.edu) wrote:
>: : I have a lot of jewelweeds growing in my marsh and along the
>: : streams.  Last year I collected some for soneone on the net.
>: :  I will
>: : gather seeds for anyone interested in me sending them
>

>I would agree with this comment for any invasive type of plant such as
>purple loosestrife.  But jewelweed is a rather mundane plant, not
>invasive, and it grows well with other wetland species, doesn't choke
>them out.  So I doubt that offering jewelweed seeds is going to have any
>impact on any environment whatsoever.
>
>Don

  Native Americans used jewelweed to cure poison Ivy.  My husband used it and it worked fair (for mild
poison ivy)  also when I was a kid if we got into nettles we would use jewel weed to kill the pain.  Only
 works if you use it right away though.   It's a neat plant, and in the late summer it's fun to play with the
pods, the seeds ejest if you touch the pod!!!
                                                             Kay Hanson


From aford@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:47 EST 1995
Article: 55387 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: aford@ix.netcom.com (Anita Ford)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Ground cover for ditch banks?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 12:55:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ia3gd$ese@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
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In <D47HD4.Mvn@ns1.nodak.edu> givers@badlands.NoDak.edu (David R Givers) 
writes: 

>
>Christine Owens (cowens@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>
>: Have you considered concocting a mix of local, low-growing
>: wild-flowers?
>
>: Chris Owens
>
>: >
>: >There is a drainage ditch that runs along side the road in front of 
my
>house : >and I would like to put some type of ground cover on it's
>edges/banks.  
>: >John Kuhn
>
>John-there is probably not a quick fix but there are good solutions.  
>Christine Owens(above) has pointed you in the right direction.  Native 
>species can do the job if carefully selected and properly planted.  
>
>But -- this is going to take some effort on your part to learn your 
local 
>prairie ecotype.  I would suggest for your application not to concoct 
until 
>you have read some books.  For a quick start send $3 to Prairie Nursery 
>PO bOx 306 Westfield WI 53946.  They will send their catalog which
>will help you get started learning.  No one I knowm owns it or works 
there; 
>standard discalimer applies.
>
>I would stay away from the wildflower idea as wildflowers.  The base 
for 
>solving your problem is in selecting the right grasses and adding some 
>flowers for color and diversity.  Your planting might have to be as 
much 
>as 90 percent grass, as a guess.
>
>DO the right thing and you will feel right; so will the earth.
>good luck
>David Givers
>
>

I'm dealing with the same problem.  I moved into a new house in May '94 
and got the bank in the bargin.  I put lots of different things on the 
bank to see what would live with very little effort.  So far I'm pleased 
with the following:

sedum (different varieties), St. John's Wort, heather, vincia, mint, 
hens & chicks, barberry bushes.  

In an effort to help establish some of the plants, I places old bricks 
and rocks in the bank.

I'm considering the pros/cons of crown vetch and am planning to add 
creeping tyme.

Most of my bank is in full sun.  I live in Manassas, VA

Happy planting

Anita


From topsoil@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:48 EST 1995
Article: 55388 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How do I "grow" (raise?) worms?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 01:53:41 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Howdy  :)

Raising redworms is a breeze.  I have them growing and breeding in my
classroom at school, and even in two small bins I keep on a dresser in my
bedroom!  Of course, they are very easy to raise in outdoor piles during
mild seasons, or year-round in mild climates.

Basically, you just need appropriate bedding (moist medium in which they
can live) and food.  My suggestion is to get a copy of "Worms Eat My
Garbage" by Mary Appelhof.  This is the simplest intro to how to do worm
composting -- and getting worms as a side benefit if you are interested in
that.  The book is available for about $10 from Flower Press, 10322 Shaver
Road, Kalamazoo, MI  49002.

Once you get one batch of worms (from a friend or bought through the
mail), there is no need to ever get more.  Under ideal growing conditions,
they can double their numbers in about a month!

I am beginning a project to teach local school children about composting
with worms as a way of recycling and reducing the waste stream.  If I can
be of any further assistance, please send email.

--  Eric Johnson
Boulder, Colorado


From miriam@trystero.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:50 EST 1995
Article: 55389 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!uchinews!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!usenet
From: miriam@trystero.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
Date: 20 Feb 1995 06:05:43 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 112
Message-ID: <3i9bfn$ap5@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> <793053149snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com>
Reply-To: miriam@trystero.com
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In <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com>, destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker) writes:
|Gary Cooper (Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk) wrote:
|: In article <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com| destry@netcom.com "Fellwalker" writes:
|
|: <much deleted to save bandwidth>
|
|: |    You don't call up to 350 posts every other day excessive traffic?! 
|: | Firstly, I use a threaded newsreader and I _do_ know how to use it...it 
|: | still took me 3 hours to get through this newsgroup when I was away for 2 
|....snip
|
|: Actually, no I don't. Living in England *many* of the posts to
|: this group are completely irrelevant to me, and scanning past those
|: threads takes fractions of a second. 350 posts really doesn't seem
|: like a great number to me - unless one is attempting to read, and maybe
|: even respond, to nearly all of them. Quite why it took you three
|: hours to get through two days posts I can't imagine. 
|
|     Many people _don't_ scan over most of the posts, because they don't 
|find them irrelevant. For those people, subdividing rec.gardens would 
|make it easier to scan through groups of related subjects, instead of 
|scanning through one great pile of everything. It takes me three hours to 
|get through posts because I have to sort and read and sort and read....
|
|: But, if you, too, are a generalist, interested in reading about 
|: everything, how will fragmentation help? You'll still want to read all 
|: these posts - and splitting will simply increase the number of them as 
|: newbies inevitably use a shotgun approach with their questions.
|
|     If I'm looking for info about vegetable gardening (for example) it 
|would probably be quicker to find it in rec.gardens.misc.edible or 
|whatever, instead of scanning through floweres, trees, pt lumber,etc. If 
|I'm just scanning for interesting subjects, it would be quicker scanning 
|through a group of more closely related subjects than a very general group.
|   (example, would you think that "comp.sys" should be the only comp.sys 
|group with no further division? Or rec.sports?)

snip...


If only my newsfeed would not expire after two days, with the 
amount of traffic lately in his group, I could foresee finding 
over one thousand articles to read after being away two weeks.
But that still would not encourage me to support further topical 
division. I, too, find interest in reading all the varieties of 
discussion on gardening in one newsgroup. Often the advice found 
effects indoor and outdoor (flower or vegetation, etc.).
Rec.bonsai and Rec.orchids has worked well for specific interests
and may very well be example for a RFD for say, hydroponics.
As for my indoor, outdoor flower gardening and hedges, and 
vegetable gardening, I'd just as soon continue to spool up one 
general newsgroup.

I have a suggestion, which is not original, and has worked in
rec.aquaria since I have read UseNet. Prefacing the subject is a
marked "(F)"... for freshwater discussion; "(M)" for marine.

Why not try inserting a letter code here? Who should standardize
the code? I dunno. (%-) But I'll try some suggestions and
use the "K.I.S.S" method :

(B) Books, periodicals
(C) Catalogues
(D) Data (i.e. software, scientific)
(F) Fertilizers
(I) Indoor
(O) Outdoor
(P) Pests
(S) Soil
(V) Vegetables

Example for rec.gardening:
Subject line: (I) Geranium Propagation

A monthly message explaining the code may help users be reminded
to try this tagging method and trim down the Subject line usage 
of just an undefined "Help".

What do y'all think? This warm weather we are once again 
relishing in New England reminds me that I will have less time 
soon to spend reading news and will be spending more time outside
gardening. Bring on the Spring!!!

Regards,

---J
Janice Anne Follansbee           "One Hand Washes the Otter"
miriam@fathermoe.trystero.com
     |\      _,,,---,,_       
zzz. /,`.-'`'    -.  ;-;;,_. 
    |,4-  ) )-,_. ,\ (  `'-' 
   '---''(_/--'  `-'\_)    fL

 

------------------------- Note headers follow --------------------------
>From destry@netcom.com  Mon Feb 20 00:32:31 1995
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Regards,

---J
Janice Anne Follansbee           "One Hand Washes the Otter"
miriam@fathermoe.trystero.com



From 76533.757@CompuServe.COM Mon Mar  6 10:37:53 EST 1995
Article: 55390 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Roz Garland <76533.757@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pruning Crepe Myrtles
Date: 17 Feb 1995 05:45:20 GMT
Organization: via CompuServe Information Service
Lines: 17
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References: <19950215165804.Debbie.Detwiler@ddetwiler.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM>
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Regarding the pruning and mildew problems of crepe myrtles:
   According to our local gardening guru (Dallas, Tx area----Neil 
Sperry and Howard Garrett) you really should not cut any limbs or 
branches that are bigger than a pencil.  But I have seen people 
do so with no harm to the crepe.
    I had two quite large cm's next to my house, and couldn't 
figure out why they got powdery mildew so badly----the leaves 
would turn white, then black, and no blooms.  So I asked the 
county extension agent.  Problem was that they were in the drip 
line of the house, and the place that they were planted did not 
provide enough air circulation for them.  So if their roots stay 
relatively wet, you probably will have a problem with powdery 
mildew.  I dug them up 2 weeks ago and transplanted them to a new 
location with good drainage.  I hope they SURVIVE!  Everyone 
assures me that they are very hardy and tough!
Good luck!
Roz Garland


From sberman@alumni.caltech.edu Mon Mar  6 10:37:54 EST 1995
Article: 55391 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!sberman
From: sberman@alumni.caltech.edu (Stan Berman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart
Date: 20 Feb 1995 01:17:21 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
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Regarding Martha Stewart: 

I am also one of those who can't stand her. She
paints a completely unrealistic picture of what
one person can do by not properly (and fairly)
acknowledging her collaborators and helpers. 

I found a really amusing spoof of the Martha
Stewart magazine at Borders the other day. Among
the designs included was a plan to completely re-
tile one's pool with found shards of glass and 
tile in patterns like Michelangelo's Sistine
Chapel. 

Very funny, though too expensive to buy at 10$

Bharathi Jagadeesh

(I can be more easily reached at bjag@nih.gov
than the reply address)


From spudnik1@bev.net Mon Mar  6 10:37:55 EST 1995
Article: 55392 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.kei.com!newshost.marcam.com!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!usenet
From: spudnik1@bev.net (spudnik1)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poor Soil
Date: 20 Feb 1995 08:49:43 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <3i9l37$p8u@solaris.cc.vt.edu>
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In article <3hug87$brv@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jeck1@aol.com (Jeck1) s
I also just moved to a new house and the soil is terrible. I've had the same problems you have. I saw an article in one of my magazines which pictured a beautiful yard that was filled with all sorts of perennials. The owner said that she had poor clay soi
l and just dug holes larger than required and filled them with potting soil. I don't know how well this will work, but I'm willing to try for lack of a tiller or compost as of yet.


From pepper@primenet.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:57 EST 1995
Article: 55393 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!usc!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip037.phx.primenet.com!pepper
From: pepper@primenet.com (Tim Pepper)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Looking for landscape software/shareware/freeware
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 23:12:16 MST
Organization: Primenet
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 I am looking for a freeware or shareware program similar to 3D landscape. 
Does anyone know where I can download one? 


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:58 EST 1995
Article: 55394 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!psgrain!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: Disaster: Novice plants seeds to save money...help !!
Message-ID: <destryD49wK9.M6J@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3i0nra$gma@tilde.csc.ti.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 00:40:57 GMT
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Sender: destry@netcom15.netcom.com
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Lynnette (edrn@dlep1.itg.ti.com) wrote:
: I visited my local nursery in the throes of a thrifty mood, and bought 
: a bunch of flower seed packets. Last year, I spent about $40 on
: 6 packs of begonias alone !! This year, I was going to play it wise and 
: plan ahead. I bought three packs of Impatien seeds and planted them
: in organic potting soil, as suggested by the teenaged "garden" 
: manager...hmmm...Now, over a week later, no sprouts. Nothing. 
: The seeds were so small, I used tweezers to plant them. 

     I don't know what it said on the seed packet, but Impatiens can take 
10 to 14 days to germinate, longer if the temperature is cool. I planted 
some outdoors last Spring and they took 3 weeks to show.

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:37:59 EST 1995
Article: 55395 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!psgrain!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: Please don't flame me
Message-ID: <destryD49x65.92@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3i2r3d$cmm@cobia.gulf.net> <LRFORTNEY-1702951601250001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu> <3i5l5o$egn@news.midland.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 00:54:05 GMT
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Neil Mercer (smeagol@midland.co.nz) wrote:
: L. R. Fortney (LRFORTNEY@hep.phy.duke.edu) wrote:
: : In article <3i2r3d$cmm@cobia.gulf.net>, macsusn@gulf.net (Shelley
: : Carpenter) wrote:
: : > 
: : > I'm fairly new to this group and have just been lurking, BUT, I have to 
: : > speak out on the reorganization.
: : > 
: : > For me, it would be easier if there were two groups, one for vegetable 
: : > gardens and one for flowers/shrubs etc.  
: : > 
: :    I agree completely, but the last time I tried to inject this bit of
: : reason it went nowhere.
: : Lloyd Fortney ---Opinions, just opinions---

: I also agree, even though I am primarily against splitting rec.gardens.  
: This just makes much more sense to me.  Maybe we should be considering a 
: split which would end up with larger groups than being currently 
: proposed, but seems more logical.  Comments?

     (Max here, from under reams of rec.gardens reorganization paperwork)

   I definately don't want to propose a whole slew of tiny groups in 
rec.gardens....that's why I was asking for opinions. I'm trying to put 
together a proposal that would subdivide what is currently rec.gardens 
(but still retain a rec.gardens.misc as a general group) into a small 
number of basic groups, such as rec.gardens.edible (to cover veggies, 
herbs, etc) and rec.gardens.ornamental (plants grown for flowers, 
foliage, etc)...but still allow for future growth as new groups come 
along or mailing lists become newsgroups. 
   There was one poster who suggested a good breakdown of how to set up a 
rec.gardens hierarchy to take into account future groups, and someone 
immediately took him out of context and posted that someone was proposing 
20-some groups....sheesh!

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From pattibelle@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:01 EST 1995
Article: 55396 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PATTIBELLE <pattibelle@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poison Oak-no laughing matter
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 02:05:23 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <xe0a8wz.pattibelle@delphi.com>
References: <mfrost.287.001E1704@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: Martha Frost <mfrost@primenet.com>
Status: O
X-Status: 

My doctor told me that at the first sign of poison oak to take one
Procardia pill, poke it with a pin, then hold it under the tongue
until all the contents have leaked out and been absorbed.  It stops
the allergic action right NOW!  However, he was going to e-mail me
some literature on it which he hasn't done.  Meanwhile, I'm afraid
to go out in the yard cutting brush for fear that I'll contract
another bad case of poison oak like I had last fall.  My sympathy
to you, Martha, and if anyone else knows anything about using
Procardia, please either post here or e-mail me!
 
Pat in Napa, CA


From pattibelle@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:02 EST 1995
Article: 55397 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PATTIBELLE <pattibelle@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: COMPOSTING SYSTEMSÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 02:13:18 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <x+1Ys82.pattibelle@delphi.com>
References: <36.9584.2599@granite.mn.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: Jim Mcnelly <jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org>
Status: O
X-Status: 

Before I bought something so expensive, I'm in process of trying a cheap
plastic garbage can which I had myhusband drill many, many holes in.
I filled it with leaves and stuff last fall, watered it down good, then
put the lid on for the winter.  Last time I looked the contents had gone
way down and there were pillbugs all over the place.  When the weather
warms up, I should have compost at the bottom.  If it works, I'm think-
ing of getting 2 more garbage cans, then forking the contents just like
I would with those expensive bins.  I got dark green for $5.99.  Good
luck composting, Diane!
 
Pat in Napa, CA


From pattibelle@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:04 EST 1995
Article: 55398 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PATTIBELLE <pattibelle@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Deer in my garden!!
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 02:21:03 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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X-To: Louise C. Putnam-Stoner <lcp7a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU>
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I have tried everything I could think of to stop deer short of fencing
the entire back yard (they can have the front).  The ONLY thing that
has worked every time is egg, oil, detergent.  Beat one egg, add 1 tbsp.
each of cooking oil and detergent.  Add more water and pour into spray
bottle.  You have to keep spraying, especially after rain, but it does
work!
 
Pat in Napa, CA  (too manydeer)


From cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:38:05 EST 1995
Article: 55399 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> <793053149snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com> <3i9bfn$ap5@sundog.tiac.net>
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In article <3i9bfn$ap5@sundog.tiac.net> miriam@trystero.com  writes:

<words deleted to save bandwidth>

> I have a suggestion, which is not original, and has worked in
> rec.aquaria since I have read UseNet. Prefacing the subject is a
> marked "(F)"... for freshwater discussion; "(M)" for marine.
> 
> Why not try inserting a letter code here? Who should standardize
> the code? I dunno. (%-) But I'll try some suggestions and
> use the "K.I.S.S" method :

<more deleted>

This isn't at all a bad idea, as far as I can see, but I fear 
that it's unlikely to catch on.

-- 
Gary Cooper


From cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:38:06 EST 1995
Article: 55400 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <792896969snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD44Jtx.FAK@netcom.com> <793053149snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com>
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In article <destryD49wDE.Lxw@netcom.com> destry@netcom.com "Fellwalker" writes:

>      Many people _don't_ scan over most of the posts, because they don't 
> find them irrelevant. For those people, subdividing rec.gardens would 
> make it easier to scan through groups of related subjects, instead of 
> scanning through one great pile of everything. It takes me three hours to 
> get through posts because I have to sort and read and sort and read....

I think we're going to have to agree to differ on this. As far as
I can see, any splitting of this group will, inevitably, increase
the total number of postings and will irreparably damage its catholic
nature. Being familiar neither with your newsreader, nor the way you use 
it, I find it impossible to imagine how it can take so 
long to look through a list of threads, decide which ones might 
interest you then either read, or pass by them. I'm afraid I simply
don't understand your comment about having to "sort and read" etc. 
This is obviously a failing on my part, for which I apologise.    

> 
> : But, if you, too, are a generalist, interested in reading about 
> : everything, how will fragmentation help? You'll still want to read all 
> : these posts - and splitting will simply increase the number of them as 
> : newbies inevitably use a shotgun approach with their questions.
> 
>      If I'm looking for info about vegetable gardening (for example) it 
> would probably be quicker to find it in rec.gardens.misc.edible or 
> whatever, instead of scanning through floweres, trees, pt lumber,etc. If 
> I'm just scanning for interesting subjects, it would be quicker scanning 
> through a group of more closely related subjects than a very general group.
>    (example, would you think that "comp.sys" should be the only comp.sys 
> group with no further division? Or rec.sports?)
>     Newbies are only ignorant, _not_ stupid. They learn by their mistakes 
> and stop making them. rec.gardens.roses and rec.gardens.orchids have 
> hardly gone down under a barrage of cross posts.

Equally, if all you are interested in is vegetable growing, how long
does it take to scan a day or so's threads for those containing
relevant information? My server has a seven day expiry, which means that
I am confronted with several screens of threads every time I log on.
Even with that number, it would be the work of minutes to scan through
for vegetable-related threads. 

Continuing your line of argument, I still fail to see how you think
division will help if you are a generalist gardener. Having scanned
and read rec.vegetables (or whatever) you will then have to plough
(!) through all the other groups which might interest you. These
will contain either the same, or a greater, number of posts which
means your total time saving will amount to zero. Compartmentalising
will offer no time savings and carries the risk that, for example,
the chrysanthemum specialist is likely to miss a fascinating post
about general cultivation which appears on another group. Either that
or, if it has been cross-posted, s/he will be forced to endure it
by the number of times the cross-posting has taken place.

Your analogy with other pursuits is a bit of a non sequitur because
the baseball fan is *very* unlikely to be interested in the cricket 
scores in the match between Pakistan and New Zealand at Karachi. 
Similarly, the PC clone user is unlikely to be concerned by the
latest developments in Cray operating systems. The gardener, 
however, is likely to be interested in *many* different genera and
many different horticultural techniques.  

I hope I haven't suggested (and do not believe I have) that newbies
are stupid. They are, however, a fact of life: one demonstarted
to extremes every Autumn. They will *always* be with us and
they will *always* cross-post and make the same mistakes we all
have made. You won't stop cross-posting, it happens everywhere.
If we allow rec.gardens to be sub-divided in this passion for
compartmentalisation, we will simply encourage that phenomenon.

<words deleted to save bandwidth>

>     rec.gardens reorganization would hold back the development of the 
> 'Net? How many new newsgroups were you given a choice of when you signed 
> on today? (I had about 10 or so.)

That wasn't the point that I was making. I was saying that if we
contort Usenet to take account of those with minimum facilities,
the net as a whole suffers. If your argument for division of 
rec.gardens is supported by the claim that this is required for
those whose servers expire articles at unreasoanbly short periods,
then that amounts to such a contortion. An analogy would be
the growth of WWW, which gobbles-up bandwidth at a terrifying rate.
Should we have banned it, because of that, or installed greater
bandwidth? By extension, should we butcher rec.gardens (or any
other group) simply for the sake of those whose servers have short 
memories?

>   
> ....snip...
> : >    While I don't agree with his 'plant' hierarchy idea, please realize 
> : > there are more than a few people who _would_ like to see some sort of 
> : > reorganization....and their views are just as valid as yours. It is 
> : > unfair to arbitrarily lump them into groups and dismiss them.
> 
> : Breaking objections down into component elements is a good way of finding
> : whether there are valid points being made. No one has challenged the
> : points raised by Sherry, Kay Klier, myself and others as to
> : *why* these proposals have been made - they have simply expanded on
> : them - which is fine and shows that the reduction has served its
> : purpose. It's hardly 'lumping them into groups' - it's an attempt at
> : analysis on the hoof :-). From there, those points have been disagreed 
> : with, not "dismissed".
> 
>      My reference to 'lumping into groups' was because of your statements 
> about what sort of people want to reorganize rec.gardens, breaking down 
> into something like, People who are too lazy to scan, people who don't 
> know how to use their newsreaders (to scan), and 'non-gardeners'. I am 
> not lazy, or I wouldn't be putting the work into the rec.gardens proposal 
> that I have. I know darn well how to use my (threaded) newsreader, and I 
> am most certainly a gardener. 

And I *still* don't see why it takes you three hours to scan and
read a selection from a few hundred posts. Moreover, neither do I see 
how splitting this group will save you much (any?) time and effort.

We all receive the same number of posts and yet it is still only
a handful of people who have claimed that this is a major problem.
Many of what Sherry calls the "shredders" have supported the 
division on the grounds that they are simply not *interested* in
other subjects (which is sad, but fair enough) but few are claiming
that reading rec.gardens is in danger of becoming a full-time
occupation. That suggests, with respect, that the problem lies in
the way those few people are handling their news reading, rather than 
any inherent problem with the group itself.


>     Whatever Mr. Sexton's reasons are behind his rec.plants proposal, it 
> is unfair to him, and to anyone else putting forward any proposal, to 
> dismiss him on those grounds, instead of by disagreement with the proposal 
> itself. 

His proposal is absurd on any basis. Gardening is about far more than
specific genera and I find it deeply surprising that any gardener
could have proposed this. A taxonomist (pace Kay Klier!) maybe,
but a gardener, no. As for the other points, if people (and some
have) put forward arguments in favour of splitting this group
which are based on either laziness, lack of knowledge or
whatever, I do not consider it all unreasonable to comment 
accordingly. 

-- 
Gary Cooper


From rgccmc@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:07 EST 1995
Article: 55401 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rgccmc@aol.com (Rgccmc)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Dames Rocket Wildflower, where can I find seeds ?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 18:49:08 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Has any one ever planted these wildflowers.  They look like Phlox but they
are a member of the mustard family.  They are blue, violet, purple and
pink.  I have been looking for seed but have had no luck.


From bbeer@u.washington.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:09 EST 1995
Article: 55402 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!bbeer
From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Date: 20 Feb 1995 09:31:46 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
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References: <010879XRPITVGJLEMENO@kbbs.com>
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This sounds like Brugmannsia, or "angel's trumpet."  It used to be 
classified as a Datura but the woody species have reclassified.  There 
are many species, from the white to yellow to orange and red.  Great 
plants.  I wish they were hardy here....

bob

In article <010879XRPITVGJLEMENO@kbbs.com>,  <kwilliam@kbbs.com> wrote:
>
>with respect to least liked plants, sdb writes:
> <...and for a week after trimming barberry, any kind of barberry,
> >little thorns would fester out of my skin.
>
>Sounds like my hands, when I once tripped and fell into stinging nettle.
>Interesting, vigorous plant-- gruesome effect!
>
>Which leads me to another plant and a question:
>
>I manage two apartment buildings in West Los Angeles, and next door to
>one of my buildings is a flowering tree of some kind that overhangs my
>building's walkway.  It's a weedy kind of tree, not very full in
>foliage, however once every one and a half months or so in this mild
>climate, the tree bursts (almost literally) into six to ten inch long
>white trumpet shaped flowers.  It has a faint heady scent, kind of like
>a watered down version of a Casablanca lily grown from a bulb.
>
>What *is* this tree?  I haven't any objections to the tree, quite the
>contrary-- I'd just like to know!
>
>Thanks....
>
>k. jolley-williams
>
>
>--
>    [*]   Message Origin:  KBBS Los Angeles!  74 Access Lines   [*]
>    [*]   (818) 886-0872 or Telnet 204.96.25.7  info@kbbs.com   [*]
>
>
>




From m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov Mon Mar  6 10:38:10 EST 1995
Article: 55403 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!news.bu.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user
From: m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov (Martin Zimmerman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 12:33:36 -0600
Organization: Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis Research Center
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <m.l.zimmerman-1702951233360001@mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov>
References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu> <jwalker-160295161346@stc1-2.nas.mr.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov
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Another vote for the status quo. With the subjects plain to see, it only
takes me a few minutes to pick out the stuff I want to read. Lots of times
I find information for solving one problem in a post with a seemingly
unrelated subject heading. Maybe I'm buried in snow (actually we had a
thaw yesterday and I spotted my first snowdrop!) but I can garden
vicariously through the Californians and Southerners. Maybe I'd like to
stay organic, but its nice to know what chemical will get the job done
when the black vine weevils have my yews at death's door (the SOBs have
killed 2 big ones already).

I've been a follower of rec.pets.dogs for awhile, a group that recently
split into about 6 groups. I don't really feel that I'm saving any time
cruising through 4 out of 6 groups, than I did cruising once through the
big group (esp. since a lot of stuff is crossposted between groups). When
you look at the many different ways of splitting up rec.gardens ( food vs.
landscaping, organic vs. non-organic, warm climate vs. cold climate etc) I
think the crossposting would outweigh the gain of being able to skip a few
groups (like rec.gardens.bermudagrass.die.die.die :-) ).

my 2¢

Marty

-- 
Marty Zimmerman                           m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov
Analex Corp - NASA Lewis Research Center
Cleveland, Ohio USA


From smeagol@midland.co.nz Mon Mar  6 10:38:12 EST 1995
Article: 55404 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!ames!waikato!news.midland.co.nz!midland.co.nz!smeagol
From: smeagol@midland.co.nz (Neil Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: PROPOSED REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Date: 18 Feb 1995 05:31:34 GMT
Organization: Midland Internet Limited - Hamilton, New Zealand
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References: <brian.792620261@dorite> <3hov2r$o8b@riscsm.scripps.edu> <3hqg6i$gaf@solaris.cc.vt.edu> <1995Feb14.201950.38627@cobra.uni.edu> <792860357snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <3htkkg$4ql@news.bu.edu> <destryD44EBr.1t2@netcom.com> <3i2t57$ip1@news.bu.edu>
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I think rec.gardens should stay as it is.  I enjoy the variety in the 
group, especially as I don't have very specific gardening interests.  I  
don't see why the number of posts on this newsgroup should be a problem, 
and I don't think it's a legitimate reason for splitting.  As Sherry 
said, get a threader.  It doesn't take that long to scan the group for 
items that interest you, it's an easily learned skill.  I really don't 
want to have to read many newsgroups to find out things which I can 
currently find out in this one newsgroup as I don't see that it's 
necessary.

Leave rec.gardens as it is!

Tania.


From kidkaos@uslink.net Mon Mar  6 10:38:13 EST 1995
Article: 55405 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!newshost.uslink.net!pp5
From: kidkaos@uslink.net (pete hanson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: IVY GERANIUMS
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 18:02:58 GMT
Organization: US Link Communications
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Distribution: world
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kathy.floritto@sasquat.com (KATHY FLORITTO) wrote:
>
>
>     Is there a secret to cloning ivy geraniums?  Will someone please
>share it?  I've never had difficulty with the "ordinary"
>geranium/pelargonium - but the ivy type defeats me...every single time.
>
>     Help!
>
>                              KATHY
>
> * 1st 2.00b #3640 * Kathy.Floritto@Sasquat.com
>
>

  Like all geraniums, do not overwater.  Make sure they dry out good between watereings.  They prefer
as much light as they can get.  If they are to shaded they will die.  Pick off old flowers and leaves.  The
biggest problem I've seen is that people overwater.  (also becareful not ot over fertilize!!)  The leaves yellow if
you overwater.  Second biggest problem is that they don't get enough light.
                                                          Kay Hanson


From kidkaos@uslink.net Mon Mar  6 10:38:15 EST 1995
Article: 55406 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!newshost.uslink.net!pp5
From: kidkaos@uslink.net (pete hanson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lavender
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 18:12:24 GMT
Organization: US Link Communications
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bolducd@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Bolduc Diane) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>   This year I want to try growing lavender in a self-watering container
>of 1' 1/2 wide by 2' depth (Is it enough??). I haven't choose yet wich
>variety and if I should buy plants or start them from seeds. I'd like
>them to bloom this summer.  I live in a Zone 5 (CAN), the equivalent is
>it Zone 4-4a (USAD)? I live far north Vermont State, exacly in Montreal.
>
>   If it works, how many years could it stay in. Will I have to devide
>them? And how about the soil mix, do I use a rich soil or a poor one
>since it's going to stay in place? I'd like to keep growing lavender
>this way for few years.
>
>   And also, does anyone know if it's possible to place it in a
>greenhouse at the end of the summer for a second bloom?
>
>  You may have notice, Yes I'm crasy about lavender!!! :-)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Diane
>_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_
>:  You can answer here in the newsgroup for the benefit   :
>:  of everyone  or e-mail me at bolducd@ere.umontreal.ca  :
>_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_
>

There is a variety that blooms annually (I think it's called Lavender Lady, I'm not sure)  Otherwise
 Lavender from seed  shouldn't bloom the first year.  Lavender Lady  only came out last year.
I have lavender plants (Northern Minnesota zone 3) that Ihave come up every year for 3 years.
The lavender plant I brought in never did well, I guess it didn't get enough light.  You might want to
just buy a single plant ( ask to make sure it will bloom this year, or check the tray and see if others
look like they are going to bud.)  the bigger the container the better, you may have to repot by the
 end of summer..  If you plant seeds, don't give up, I've heard it takes them a while to come up.
                                                                Kay Hanson


From pford@cabell.vcu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:17 EST 1995
Article: 55407 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!freenet.vcu.edu!cabell.vcu.edu!not-for-mail
From: pford@cabell.vcu.edu (Phil D. Ford)
Newsgroups: alt.stupidity,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: corn
Date: 20 Feb 1995 10:38:07 -0500
Organization: Virginia Commonwealth University
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3iad0v$hn6@cabell.vcu.edu>
References: <3i29to$8gi@cabell.vcu.edu> <3i8trj$7el@cabell.vcu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cabell.vcu.edu
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.stupidity:30992 rec.gardens:55407
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>(Chuck-chuck, bo-buck, banana-fanana fo-fuc--) wrote:

>%% I, the cabbage, wrote: 
>%% 
>%% 
>%% I like corn.

>yea, well, i liked it before you did.

Like hell you did.  I was around when them christian disciples
decided to rip off this rites of spring = easter thing.  And
let me tell you them pagans were pretty pissed when they didn't
get any credit for it.

>2:30 snack?

You bet, let's go get some corn-nuts.


cabbage:  better living through saying "and corn" instead of
          "and bacon".


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:19 EST 1995
Article: 55408 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: Opinions on Most Popular Herbs
Message-ID: <destryD4AC13.MK@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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References: <3hb0uo$j2k@babylon.gain.com> <3hcaqf$qt5@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <fettrow.1.1.2F47DEAB@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 06:15:03 GMT
Lines: 11
Sender: destry@netcom6.netcom.com
Status: O
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: >Subject: Re: Opinions on Most Popular Herbs

   Basil.
Last year I grew 6 varieties, my generic Sweet Basil living until mid 
January...only to be struck down by the California rains. Thai basil, 
opal basil, ruffled basil, globe basil (probably my only un-favorite basil)
   Did I mention Basil?  ;)

--Max
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From kovler@smart.net Mon Mar  6 10:38:20 EST 1995
Article: 55409 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!psuvax1!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!smarty.smart.net!smarty.smart.net!not-for-mail
From: kovler@smart.net (Ken Kovler)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Rooting Geraniums
Date: 19 Feb 1995 20:30:13 -0500
Organization: Smart.Net Internet Services [ via smarty ]
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <3i8rb5$3g7@smarty.smart.net>
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I have 5 Geranium plants that I brought indoors in Fall 1994.  They are 
growing very well indoors.  However, I now would like to grow additional 
Geranium plants from cuttings of these plants.  Does anyone know how to root
Geranium plants from already established plants to be planted outdoors 
in Spring 1995?

Responses by E-Mail please.


From Rob@autech.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:38:22 EST 1995
Article: 55410 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Rob@autech.demon.co.uk (Rob Lawley)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!autech.demon.co.uk!Rob
Subject: Software for designing gardens?
Reply-To: Rob@autech.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.29
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 16:25:16 +0000
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Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk
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Hi All,

I wonder if anyone out there knows of any *good* software for designing
gardens that runs on the PC. A relative of mine wants to design a *big*
garden, and will be spending oodles of cash on it all, so cost is not much
of an issue, but availability and quality is.

-- 
Rob Lawley


From mmk@tiac.net Mon Mar  6 10:38:24 EST 1995
Article: 55411 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!usenet
From: mmk <mmk@tiac.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden Design Program Wanted
Date: 20 Feb 1995 02:44:55 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3i8vn7$73a@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <3i157h$11@eliza.netaxis.com> <3i44fi$kpq@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mmk.tiac.net
Status: O
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I have flowerscape. I have not used it too much because I had some difficulty running it with an ATI video card.
I just got a new machine, and it seems to run OK.
What would you like to know??
Mike



From tristed@passport.ca Mon Mar  6 10:38:25 EST 1995
Article: 55412 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!winternet.com!interlog.com!news1.fonorola.net!fonorola!infoshare!passport.ca!not-for-mail
From: tristed@passport.ca (Patricia Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 12:16:31 -0500
Organization: Passport
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <3iaipf$2ep@forged.passport.ca>
References: <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com><793125372snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: forged.passport.ca
Status: O
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In rec.gardens Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) said: 
 
 
>In article <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com> 
>           robinson@ichips.intel.com "David Lyle Robinson" writes: 
> 
>> I recently looked at a booklett written by Jerry Baker 
>> that suggests using epsom salts as a spring soil preparation. 
>> It even suggests using it in potting soil for starting 
>> transplants.  In other places, the booklett suggests using 
>> dish soap and instant tea as a fertilizer. 
>>  
>> Has anyone ever heard of this, and if so what is in 
>> these that makes it work?  Sounds like a bunch of 
>> unfounded hocus-pocus claims to me, but I'm open 
>> to learning new tricks. 
> 
>Epsom salts are no problem at all - in fact they're magnesium sulphate
which  
>ends-up as magnesium, as far as your plants are concerned. Magnesium  
>deficiencies are quite common and certain plants (roses, tomatoes and  
>chrysanthemums for example) are particularly prone to this. 
> 
>I'd suggest, however, that this author is simply wrong in suggesting that
it be  
>used universally. It's normally included in sufficient quantities in  
>commercially prepared potting mixtures and is present in all good compound
 
>fertilisers, including seed-starting and potting bases. I can't see why he
 
>really thinks it is necessary unless you have a proven Mg deficiency. 
> 
>Meanwhile, I haven't a *clue* what he thinks is in instant tea (being
English,  
>the very notion of it makes me shudder <g>) and I am highly suspicious of
"dish  
>soap". My *guess* would be that he might be suggesting soap as a form of  
>wetting agent, but, even then, I find it hard to believe it would be the
best  
>choice. 
> 
>Hope that's some help, 
> 
> 
>--  
>Gary Cooper 
- 
I recently saw Martha Stewart pant a whole bed of bare root roses feeding
them Epsom salts. Then-presto-thanks to the magic of TV, she showed them
all in magnificent bloom only 5 weeks later! 
P.S.-I agree with you on the tea issue.My great grandfather always said he
liked his tea like a good woman-hot and strong and sweet :-)  
 
Trish 
Patricia Turner     or        Ted Turner 
-the garden grifter-       -not married to Jane!- 


From tristed@passport.ca Mon Mar  6 10:38:27 EST 1995
Article: 55413 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!winternet.com!interlog.com!news1.fonorola.net!fonorola!infoshare!passport.ca!not-for-mail
From: tristed@passport.ca (Patricia Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Squirrels
Date: 20 Feb 1995 12:16:49 -0500
Organization: Passport
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3iaiq2$2f7@forged.passport.ca>
References: <3i59vo$dr1$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: forged.passport.ca
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In rec.gardens Gordon Smith <100046.1407@CompuServe.COM> said: 
 
 
>Does anyone have an effective way to reduce squirrels in a garden? 
> 
> 
>--  
>Gordon 
 
Teeny tiny condoms :-) -- 
Patricia Turner     or        Ted Turner 
-the garden grifter-       -not married to Jane!- 


From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:28 EST 1995
Article: 55414 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet
From: Don Martinson <dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Thompson & Morgan
Date: 20 Feb 1995 17:55:29 GMT
Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3ial2h$6p1@post.its.mcw.edu>
References: <D41zz3.M78@lcpd2.SanDiegoCA.ATTGIS.COM> <793016240snz@nezumi.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu
Status: O
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> In article <D41zz3.M78@lcpd2.SanDiegoCA.ATTGIS.COM>
>            first.last@SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM "Your Name" writes: 
> > I just received the Thompson & Morgan catalog.  It's the most extensive 
> > selection I've ever seen!  Does anyone have any experience with them?  Quality 
> > of seeds/plants, etc. 
> > Their phone number, by the way, is (908)363-2225.


Both T&M and Chiltern Seeds are good, reliable companies.  While Chiltern
has no US office, you can use a charge card to make purchases.

Don Martinson <dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu>



From egreeff@intch.co.za Mon Mar  6 10:38:29 EST 1995
Article: 55415 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hermes.is.co.za!usenet
From: 192.96.36.13 (Etienne Greeff)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Sago palm ( cycas * ) watering info please ?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 07:50:06 GMT
Organization: Intertech Systems
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3i9hje$ilv@hermes.is.co.za>
Reply-To: egreeff@intch.co.za
NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.96.36.13
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.1
Status: O
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I've recently moved into a house with a lovely garden with some
sago palms aka cycases. Does anybody know how much water these plants
require. Our average daily temperature currently ( Late summer ) is
20 deg Centigrade.

Please if somebody can help me before I do damage to these lovely ancient
plants.



From egreeff@intch.co.za Mon Mar  6 10:38:30 EST 1995
Article: 55416 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hermes.is.co.za!usenet
From: 192.96.36.13 (Etienne Greeff)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 07:54:33 GMT
Organization: Intertech Systems
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3i9hrp$ilv@hermes.is.co.za>
References: <65418-793240626@mindlink.bc.ca>
Reply-To: egreeff@intch.co.za
NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.96.36.13
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.1
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>I have no idea about the instant tea and soap, but I can tell you about the
>Epsom Salts.  Epsom Salts is magnesium sulphate. 

>From what I know Epsom Salts is used in the bonsai world as well. The
reason we use it is when we give our bonsai a lot of bore hole water which
tends to be very lime rich. The lime rich water impedes on the plants 
ablitiy to absorb nitrogen and the epsom salts neutralizes this.

Hope this helps,
Etienne


From simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:32 EST 1995
Article: 55417 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!dragon!ptonline!simone.rosa-knight
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: gardening task analysis
Message-ID: <4947.866.uupcb@ptonline.com>
From: simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com (Simone Rosa-Knight) 
Date: 20 Feb 95 01:49:00 GMT
Reply-To: simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com (Simone Rosa-Knight) 
References: <Pine.ULT.3.91.950214112504.18994A-100000@selway.umt.edu>
Distribution: world
Organization: Prime Time On-Line, Alpharetta, GA  --  404-667-3085
Lines: 62
Status: O
X-Status: 

TO: jo s soo <joseph@selway.umt.edu>

JS>.@SUBJECT:gardening task analysis
JS>Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.950214112504.18994A-100000@selway.umt.edu>
JS>From: Jo S Soo <joseph@selway.umt.edu>
JS>Date: Tue, 14 Feb 1995 11:40:51 -0700

JS>Hi! I have an assigment to find out what exactly a gardener do to
JS>plan  out their garden for the coming season. My assignment is to
JS>create a  gardening help system, kinda like a check list of what to
JS>do and prepare  for. The system is to advise gardeners on what to
JS>plant, when and how to  lay out the garden for the best effect.
JS>Things like soil type, watering  techniques, fertilizers, light, heat
JS>etc. This is just for a regular  gardener. <snip>

so if there's  anyone out there who could give me the basic tips on 
what's needed to  have a healthy garden, please help me.


Joseph,

One of the things I wish I had done was known when to order seeds for 
indoor starting.  As is, I'm afraid that I have started too late for my 
Atlanta climate.  Would also be nice to have a data base of plant info 
so that you could do things like figure spacing for mature plants (like 
veggie gardens), how many plants you can fit in a given space, what 
light and water requirements are, etc.

I'm currently trying to lay out my veggie garden on paper, figuring 
mature sizes from catalog info as well as light requirements, like what 
I can plant next to the trellis full of squash and cucumbers that can 
take partial shade, and what I need to plan successive plantings of.

Would also have been nice to have a reminder in Sept. to plant a fall 
cover crop that could have enriched the soil and then been plowed under 
in Dec. or Jan. (with a reminder for that, too!)  I've also noticed that 
not all plants or seeds come with uniform info on soil type preferred.  
Due to this inconsistency I've wound up with a lot of alkaline loving 
plants in the same bed as a bunch of acid loving plants!

These are the one's I can think of right now, but I'm sure you'll get a 
lot more imput.  If your "project" is something we might be able to buy 
when finished please let us know where and how to get it!

Good luck,
Simone

Paul E.Knight
OR
Simone A. Rosa-Knight
Atlanta, GA. 30340
Internet: Paul.Knight@ptonline.com
Simone.Rosa-Knight@ptonline.com
404-491-7293
---
. CMPQwk #1.4. UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY

----
*****************************************************************************
**     Prime Time On-Line       Atlanta's Source for FULL INTERNET         **
**   1200-28.8  404-667-1081    FTP/TELNET/GOPHER  4.0 Gig On-Line         **
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From bw032@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Mar  6 10:38:33 EST 1995
Article: 55418 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!ames!news.hawaii.edu!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bw032
From: bw032@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Judith C. Price)
Subject: Re: Seeking Garden Tours in England
Message-ID: <D49z03.MGJ@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: bw032@freenet2.carleton.ca (Judith C. Price)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 01:33:38 GMT
Lines: 7
Status: O
X-Status: 


We went to England in May/June of 1987 and visited Bodnant
Gardens in north Wales, between Conwy and Betws-y-Coed.  The garden
is varied and very beautiful at this time with rhododendrons
in flower.  Gorgeous, and Conwy Castle is also worth the side trip.

We're going next month! Have fun!


From john.spivey@mcc.com.au Mon Mar  6 10:38:34 EST 1995
Article: 55419 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!news.cs.su.oz.au!metro!asstdc.scgt.oz.au!mcc!john.spivey
From: john.spivey@mcc.com.au (JOHN SPIVEY)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Species Camellias
Message-ID: <8A3C452.05800000D3.uuout@mcc.com.au>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 95 18:26:00 +1000
Distribution: world
Organization: My Computer Company BBS, Australia [+61] (02) 565-1044
Reply-To: john.spivey@mcc.com.au (JOHN SPIVEY)
References: <8943145.0580000005.uuout@mcc.com.au>
X-Newsreader: PCBoard Version 15.21
X-Mailer: PCBoard/UUOUT Version 1.10
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X-Status: 

I am looking for information on camellia rosiflora which I have just 
acquired and other species camellias. 

Any suggestions how to obtain information including history, preferably 
through Internet including WWW, Gopher or FTP, would be greatly 
appreciated.



All the best ...
John Spivey, Nowra, Australia.
---
 * WR  # 562 * A confident manner is important: Computers can sense this




From larry_carbaugh@tscnet.eskimo.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:36 EST 1995
Article: 55420 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!news.alpha.net!mvb.saic.com!eskimo!tscnet!larry_carbaugh
Distribution: world
Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking,rec.gardens
Subject: Support ?-?-?
From: larry_carbaugh@tscnet.eskimo.com (Larry Carbaugh)
Message-ID: <5d.1.1715@tscnet.eskimo.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 95 09:46:00 -0800
Organization: TSCNET Inc.  d(206)613-2388  v(206)613-0708
Lines: 18
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.food.cooking:121463 rec.gardens:55420
Status: O
X-Status: 

I just down loaded Meal Master version.  8.01	little over a week ago.
I have been wonder what kind of support there was for this program.
I live close to Everett Wa.and tried to located Episoft System
without success.  The ingredients list did not have sticks in the
list of measurement.  How can this be entered or does this feature
come in the registrated version?

TTYL.....Larry

9:29:47 am Sat 02-18-1995

Internet: larry_carbaugh@tscnet.eskimo.com
RIME: ->1607
Fido:  1:350/225

... Money: Root of all evil. Send $20 for more info.
---
 þ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12 þ


From john.spivey@mcc.com.au Mon Mar  6 10:38:37 EST 1995
Article: 55421 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!uchinews!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!news.cs.su.oz.au!metro!asstdc.scgt.oz.au!mcc!john.spivey
From: john.spivey@mcc.com.au (JOHN SPIVEY)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Species Camellias
Message-ID: <8A3E575.05800000D6.uuout@mcc.com.au>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 23:17:00 +1000
Distribution: world
Organization: My Computer Company BBS, Australia [+61] (02) 565-1044
Reply-To: john.spivey@mcc.com.au (JOHN SPIVEY)
References: <8943145.0580000005.uuout@mcc.com.au>
X-Newsreader: PCBoard Version 15.21
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I am looking for information on camellia rosiflora which I have just 
acquired and other species camellias. 

Any suggestions how to obtain information including history, preferably 
through Internet including WWW, Gopher or FTP, would be greatly 
appreciated.



All the best ...
John Spivey, Nowra, Australia.
---
 * WR  # 562 * A confident manner is important: Computers can sense this




From mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:38 EST 1995
Article: 55422 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!martha.utk.edu!mobabbb!mobabbb
From: mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu (Meredith Morris-Babb)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 'Garden in Time' New 3D software FREE for testers
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 19:04:56 GMT
Organization: UT Press
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <mobabbb.1143694736K@newsserver.utcc.utk.edu>
References: <3hqtja$iic@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3i74ji$2db@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: utpress05.admin.utk.edu
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I, too would appreciate a copy of that shareware/software.  I am in East
Tenn, zone 6-7 (no one can decide!).  I maintain both gardens and yards,
which done here means a veggie patch and lots of shubbery!

Meredith Morris-Babb
"Those aren't typos - its a new language."


From mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:39 EST 1995
Article: 55423 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!martha.utk.edu!mobabbb!mobabbb
From: mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu (Meredith Morris-Babb)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: 2nd RFD: rec.plants.*
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 19:11:31 GMT
Organization: UT Press
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <mobabbb.1143695131L@newsserver.utcc.utk.edu>
References: <1995Feb16.084657.38710@cobra.uni.edu> <3i7ugr$ikk@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: utpress05.admin.utk.edu
X-Newsreader: VersaTerm Link v1.1.5
Status: O
X-Status: 

My memory maybe foggy, but I seem to remember Mr. Sexton doing the same
thing a while back to rec.pets.dogs vs. rec.wildlife.  This individual,
whether it be Mr. Sexton or no, chose to grab all the animal groups on the
Net and divide tham as he aw fit.  He could not have possibily read any of
then, because rec.pets.dogs was going through a ref. to split at that moment!

FYI.

Meredith Morris-Babb
"Those aren't typos - its a new language."

p.s. speaking of splits, wasn't there a ref. on this group aoubt, hmm.. six
months ago? I know .roses was created, but what about the other groups?  I
have been away for a few months, so I am somewhat at a loss....


From spudnik1@bev.net Mon Mar  6 10:38:40 EST 1995
Article: 55424 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!agate!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!usenet
From: spudnik1@bev.net (spudnik1)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Another Definition for a Weed
Date: 20 Feb 1995 08:19:30 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3i9jai$p8u@solaris.cc.vt.edu>
References: <mfrost.289.00601788@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: spudnik1.bevb.blacksburg.va.us
X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.82
Status: O
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In article <mfrost.289.00601788@primenet.com>, mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) says:
>
>A weed is a plant that has no economic value to anyone, and most likely 
>interferes with the garden economy by its presence. If someone wanted it bad 
>enough, chances are it would be harvested to extinction.
>Regards, Martha
>mfrost@primenet.com
What about "weeds" that have no economic value but can be good for the garden economy, such as those that attract helpful pest killing insects. Other "weeds" are actually useful herbs that can be useful but many people lack the knowledge on their uses.Per
sonally, stinging nettle was a great help to me during my pregnancy. Queen Anne's lace is another "weed" which not only has beneficial medicinal properties, but also makes a pleasant tea and attracts beneficial insects. Other "weeds" which I not only find
 useful but nice to look at include yarrow and chickory. I don't know much about star thistle yet, but since it seems to be "infesting" my entire neighborhood I have found that the small magenta flowers dry nicely and are an intresting addition to wreaths
 and other arangements.
Perhaps it's best that these haven't been harvested to extinction, but believe it or not, some of these are harvested or commercially grown. I will say that I could do without6 crabgrass though.
        :) C.B.


From jcostello@mail.utexas.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:42 EST 1995
Article: 55425 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!cban-mac-44.bus.utexas.edu!jcostello
From: Jennifer Costello <jcostello@mail.utexas.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Is there a tissue culture expert in the house?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 18:12:20 GMT
Organization: utAustin
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Re:Is there a tissue culture expert in the house?

I'm not a tissue culture expert but if you have access to the WWW, there
is an address you can access:

aggie.horticulture.tamu.edu/tisscult/tcintro.html

This subgroup is under the Texas A & M Horticulture page.

Good luck.


J.Costello
(The worst Texas has to offer - Phil Gramm)


From kwilliam@kbbs.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:43 EST 1995
Article: 55426 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!decwrl!netcomsv!netcomsv!kbbs.com!kwilliam
Subject: What tree/plant is this?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kwilliam@kbbs.com
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 95 09:00:56 PST
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mberteig@alumni.caltech.edu writes:

<...you can smell a very good-smelling fragrance in the air, and I would
< love to know what kind of plant is doing it!  I think it may be a
< tree...

You're most likely correct.  I used to live in Santa Monica, and just
outside my living room window of my apartment was a well-established
night blooming jasmine tree that was constantly blooming.  Every evening
and morning there would be a heady scent of perfume around the walkway;
sweet and almost intoxicating.

Look around for flower droppings from these trees-- small, about the
size of the tip of your littlest finger, white to pale greeny yellow.

I'm not a horticultural expert, but the tree is a distinctly different
plant from star jasmine, which seems to be a trailing vine/bush
popularly used in landscaping around these parts. The scents are
different; star jasmine smells like the jasmine scent used in perfumery
and isn't as strong as the night-blooming jasmine tree.

Hope this helps!

k. jolley-williams


--
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From jcostello@mail.utexas.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:44 EST 1995
Article: 55427 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!cban-mac-44.bus.utexas.edu!jcostello
From: Jennifer Costello <jcostello@mail.utexas.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: office plants?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 18:16:58 GMT
Organization: utAustin
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Re: office plants?

Also, Corn plant (looks like a small tree) which blooms in early spring
with very fragrant flowers. Mother-in-law tongue (sorry-don't know
botanical name, it may be a dracaena) and any pothos ivy all do well
under very low light such as flourescent lights.

jcostello
(the worst Texas has to offer - Phil Gramm)


From destry@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:45 EST 1995
Article: 55428 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.alpha.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!destry
From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: rec.gardens.organic...Opinions??
Message-ID: <destryD44yFu.IKz@netcom.com>
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Adam Finkelstein (adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu) wrote:
: In article <destryD42923.I7L@netcom.com>, Fellwalker <destry@netcom.com> wrote:
: >
: >   I understand the point you're trying to make, but I've tried to make it
: >clear that this is not the actual in-fact official discussion that will be
: >done once I will submit the rfd. Once I do that, _then_ it will be

: Perhaps these other groups should be aware that you plan to submit an rfd?
: Maybe their input *now* might change what you write in your rfd.

: >The entire purpose of the discussion period is to do what you keep urging me
: >to do now, include the other related newsgroups. 
: >   Yes, indeed, I'm being 'rec.gardensocentric', for as I stated in the 
: >very beginning, I was simply seeking informal opinions from the people 
: >currently reading rec.gardens, _before_ bringing it up for formal discussion.

:  I understand. But even an informal discussion about a newsgroup devoted to
: organic culture in only *rec.gardens*  seems unrealistic. What else do you
: need to discuss? Some want the group, some don't, here. How about giving
: the rest of the groups a chance to voice their opinions *before* you write
: the cfd/rfd. What is unreasonable about that?

   I never said it was unreasonable...I think it would be great to be able
discuss it thoroughly with everyone and anyone. The main reason I brought
it up in rec.gardens was that it directly affected the rec.gardens
hierarchy. I have nothing against mentioning it in other newsgroups, but
there are quite a few newsgroups that would have an interest in organic
gardening, and I just _do not_ have the time to follow every thread of
discussion that arises on every group. (Voicing opnions does no good if
the people you're voicing them to don't hear them. I'm not being
disinterested, I just _cannot_ realistically conduct a huge informal poll
of the Usenet)

   So far today I have spent 6 hours just answering rec.gardens email and
wading through Usenet. I realize you feel strongly that I should solicit
opinions on alt.sustainable.agriculture. I feel that is a valid
concern...I still have your original email from several days ago
(suggesting it) in my 'unanswered mail'. Since that particular group would
have a particular interest in the proposed organic newsgroup, I was
planning on posting there at some point, when I get half a minute together
to do so. However, I stand by my feeling that _Usenet wide_ discussion can
take place during the rfd. At that time any opinions expressed can still
be taken into consideration and changes made to the group proposal, if
necessary. An rfd can go on for up to two months, more than enough time 
for anyone to bring up any points they may have.

   At the moment, the question stands whether rec.gardens.organic will be 
submitted by itself, or as part of the suggested rec.gardens subdivision. 
Until _that_, at least is decided, I won't consider bringing even more 
groups into the discussion. rec.gardens reorganization discussion can 
best take place within rec.gardens.

--Max
   
-- 
--  ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry@netcom.com>


From revans@msbbs.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:47 EST 1995
Article: 55429 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news
From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Beware Totally Tomatoes
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 20:07:56
Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS)
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>Michelle - Call the credit card co. and give them details - it might no
>be too late.

>When you called did you get the names of the people you talked to?  You
>should ask to speak to the manager, or the CEO - that might get some
>attention.

>Cheers,
>Phil
>----------------------

DEFINITELY!  I did BOTH when dealing with the Van Bourgandien (I hope
I'm spelling it right) company after a fiasco with them.  Companies
don't want ANY problems with the credit card companies they use.

Ruth
     __             ___        __
__  ////\  /\/\  /\/ _//\ __  /// | Anne McCaffrey: Master Word Crafter|
\\\//// '\/    \/ / /\/ '\\\\///  | Princess:  Cutest Wiggle Tail Ever!|
 \XX/ \/\/\/\/\/\/\__/\/\/ \XX/   | revans@vrb.com or revans@msbbs.com |


From revans@msbbs.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:49 EST 1995
Article: 55430 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news
From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Robot Lawnmower
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 95 20:08:00
Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS)
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>At last! As a hayfever sufferer my worst job is cutting the lawn.
>I noticed on a Web page (http://mmm.wwa.com/elux/elt4.html) that a robo
>lawnmower has been invented
>that cruises your lawn all summer powered by solar energy. I wonder if
>will ever
>see the light of day :-)

Yes, it is available for sale and was last summer.  A local (Boise, ID)
company bought one more as a gimic than figuring they'd sell it.  They
made the local news and newspaper.  I don't know if they sold any.  It
seems the cost was in the thousand dollar range.   I don't know about
you, but I can HIRE someone to mow my lawn for years and years and years
for that price!

Ruth
     __             ___        __
__  ////\  /\/\  /\/ _//\ __  /// | Anne McCaffrey: Master Word Crafter|
\\\//// '\/    \/ / /\/ '\\\\///  | Princess:  Cutest Wiggle Tail Ever!|
 \XX/ \/\/\/\/\/\/\__/\/\/ \XX/   | revans@vrb.com or revans@msbbs.com |


From f_rushingrg@titan.sfasu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:50 EST 1995
Article: 55431 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!news.uh.edu!titan.sfasu.edu!titan.sfasu.edu!nntp
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Poison Ivy/Oak FAQ
Message-ID: <1995Feb19.203028.727@titan.sfasu.edu>
From: Ron Rushing <f_rushingrg@titan.sfasu.edu>
Date: 19 Feb 95 20:30:28 CST
Distribution: world
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I've complied a small collection of information on poison ivy/oak-- info
about the plants--info about treatment for exposure.

So as not to post large files here (20 or so pages of text), if you're
interested drop me a note and I'll e-mail you a copy.


Ron Rushing
College of Education
S.F.A University
409.468.1424
rrushing@sfasu.edu
"Personal Opinions Only..."


From bobp@cyberquest.com Mon Mar  6 10:38:52 EST 1995
Article: 55432 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!ddsw1!panix!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!news.cyberquest.com!slip8.cyberquest.com!bobp
From: bobp@cyberquest.com (I wish people would use email)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Buying from a catalog
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 23:41:02 GMT
Organization: Cyberquest
Lines: 56
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <bobp.63.2F47D70E@cyberquest.com>
References: <7743-213503403@mcube.com> <3hnst2$ev3@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <sbegley.38.2F462A7A@voicenet.com>
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I tried catalog buying through the MICHIGAN BULB company.  I got a 50 percent 
yield between plants and bulbs, and they put me on every 
mailing list they could find.  BEWARE.  They guaranteed all 
plants, but 2 letters later, I've received no 
satisfatction...


>In article <3hnst2$ev3@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> Susan Sanders
><ssanders@umich.edu> writes:
>>From: Susan Sanders <ssanders@umich.edu>
>>Subject: Re: Buying from a catalog
>>Date: 13 Feb 1995 15:12:34 GMT

>>In article <7743-213503403@mcube.com> , rshiell@mcube.com writes:
>>>IJ> What has been your experience in this?  Do you prefer buying from a
>>>IJ>catalog or buying from a store and why? What advice can you offer in
>>this
>>>IJ>area?

>>The real advantages to catalog buying are: 
>>1)  you're more likely to get things that are appropriate for your yard
>>(since you have time to think about it in advance, dig out your books,
>>ask questions on the and make rational decisions); 2) you're less likely
>>to just get things that are in bloom the day you walk into the garden
>>center (too many people have gardens that only bloom in May because
>>that's when they're shopping for plants [or whatever month spring arrives
>>in your part of the country]); 3) you have a much greater selection of
>>plants to choose from; 4) the time spent shopping is done while the snow
>>is on the ground so that once it's gone you can spend time planting!           
>                
>>                                                        -Sue Sanders


>I use catalogue BUYING as a last resort. The selection is usually spectacular, 
>but what youo pay for what you get is a burn!Catalogues are a great reference 
>resource, however.

>Example: I was in the market for big leaf Hosta last fall. A local grower has 
>several dozen varieties (all dormant). I checked Wayside to learn about as 
>many of the varieties as I could and then purchased the plants I wanted from 
>the local grower. Result: I got Sum 'n' Substance in 2 gt containers for $4.50 
>instead of 2" pots @ $8.00 or so from the catalogue.

>The post from Susan Sanders is correct in that by using the catalogue, you 
>have an opportunity to select plants at your leisure and plan for year-round 
>enjoyment. (Or as close to year round as you can get in your area.)

>Take your time, select what you want, and then see if you can find it at a 
>local grower. If not, then you can opt to settle for something close or, if 
>you MUST have it, order from the catalogue.

>Do make it a point, however, to order SOMETHING from a catalogue every couple 
>of years to stay on everyone's mailing list. Lots of catalogue companies share 
>lists. I know that a purchase from either Wayside or Parks keeps BOTH 
>catalogues coming for several years.



From tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU Mon Mar  6 10:38:54 EST 1995
Article: 55433 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!tme9u
From: tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (teresa m. esch)
Subject: seashells in garden?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: galen.med.virginia.edu
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I was wondering if poutting seashells in the garden would be a
good way to buffer the soil instead of using lime.  LImestone
is made from seashells isn't it?  I was thinking that seashells
would provide a slow-release liming.  I have quite a few sea
shells but would have to buy lime....

Any opinions?


teresa
--
 


From bz2v@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU Mon Mar  6 10:38:55 EST 1995
Article: 55434 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!poe.acc.Virginia.EDU!bz2v
From: bz2v@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Boyd  Zenner)
Subject: Re: seashells in garden?
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tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU  writes:
> I was wondering if poutting seashells in the garden would be a
> good way to buffer the soil instead of using lime.  LImestone
> is made from seashells isn't it?  I was thinking that seashells
> would provide a slow-release liming.  I have quite a few sea
> shells but would have to buy lime....
> 
> Any opinions?
> 
> 
> teresa
> --
>  
When I lived in the Northern Neck of Virginia I used crushed
oyster shells to emend the soil around plants like dianthus,
peonies, columbine, etc., that wouldn't be happy with an acid
soil.  Seemed to work okay.

Boyd


From jmbond@email.unc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:38:59 EST 1995
Article: 55435 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!jmbond
From: jmbond@email.unc.edu (John Bond)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Need addresses for Toro, Jacobsen, & Gravely Mowers
Date: 20 Feb 1995 21:04:18 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
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Anyone know the corporate address for Gravely, Jacobsen, and/or Toro 
lawnmowers? If you can help, I would greatly appreciate that and any 
comments on any of these mowers.

Thanks,
John
jmbond@email.unc.edu


From givers@badlands.NoDak.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:02 EST 1995
Article: 55436 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!badlands!givers
From: givers@badlands.NoDak.edu (David R Givers)
Subject: Re: Jewelweed
Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login)
Message-ID: <D46FML.pCE@ns1.nodak.edu>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 03:42:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
References: <3h6kk4$f4p@morrow.stanford.edu> <1995Feb8.141805.5384@leo.vsla.edu>
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Bess Haile (bhaile@leo.vsla.edu) wrote:
: I have a lot of jewelweeds growing in my marsh and along the
: streams.  Last year I collected some for soneone on the net.

:  I will
: gather seeds for anyone interested in me sending them

 There are two concerns I would like folks to consider regarding the 
harvest of wild species.  Most books that (reponsibly IMO) promote native 
species propogation caution against gathering from  wild populations on 
general principles of conservation.  Most/many ecologists will also 
caution shipping or transfering species outside their own ecotype or 
phenotype.  In other words there is some concern for human activity 
altering natural selection of what should be wild populations.

Human population is after all at 5 billion and growing. Mother Earth 
could use some breathing space, dear netters.



From givers@badlands.NoDak.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:03 EST 1995
Article: 55437 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!badlands!givers
From: givers@badlands.NoDak.edu (David R Givers)
Subject: Re: (long!) Are we loving native plants to death?
Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login)
Message-ID: <D46Gu3.IMC@ns1.nodak.edu>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 04:08:27 GMT
References: <1995Feb9.164430.38429@cobra.uni.edu> <3he9dm$naa@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <3hff4r$4ab@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
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Christine Owens (cowens@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I am going to present a totally heretical viewpoint here.  One
: on which I have not decided myself, yet; but it does need to be
: entered into any discussion of preservation:

: At any point in the history of the earth, one could take a
: "snapshot" of plant life on a particular piece of ground.
: Several thousand years later, a similar "snapshot" 
: ****would***
: reveal a completely different set of flora, even without the
: intervention of man. 

 Would is a strong word here.  The Redwoods, all things being equal 
(absent human intervention and change of climate) would continue to exist 
as they  have.  

: Therefore, to attempt to preserve a specific mix of flora, just
: because it was the one present at the time the settlers arrived in
: America, is actually going against the grain of natural development. 

Sorry but I do not understand this statement when I process it using  my  
albeit limited  knowledge of natural selection.   First of all the reason 
that the native ecosystem was here at the dawn of european enlightenment 
of this continent is precisely because of natural selection, natural 
succession, and adaptation.


: Actually, if your real concern is genetic diversity,
: the best solution would be to collect seed of a given
: plant from as many different sites as possible, and plant
: an entire field of the stuff.  Allow it to cross-pollinate
: for a few years, collecting all the seed you can.  Then,
: plant this seed in widely separated small plots under as
: many different climatic / soil conditions as you can.  This
: will select for survivors in a lot of different environments, 
: and enhance genetic diversity in the seed.

This is not genetic diversity your are prescribing but hybridization.

: We do the same thing with animals all the time.  In fact,
: I made my living for a number of years creating re-segregated
: inbred lines of mice.  The resulting strains were highly
: genetically diverse, and very much healthier than the
: parent strains.

Right.  And no doubt these genetically superior hybrids could survive in 
the wild.  Sorry about the sarcasim here.  What I see with so many people 
who are people oriented compared to ecosphere oriented is a hubris that 
we can manipulate the world with no consequence.  I personally doubt that 
we can do that.  Too many people assume (IMO) that what we can do with 
agriculture/horticulture to support ourselves can be grafted onto natural 
ecosystems. I doubt that too.


From givers@badlands.NoDak.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:04 EST 1995
Article: 55438 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!badlands!givers
From: givers@badlands.NoDak.edu (David R Givers)
Subject: Re: (long!) Are we loving native plants to death?
Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login)
Message-ID: <D46HyB.Fto@ns1.nodak.edu>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 04:32:35 GMT
References: <1995Feb9.164430.38429@cobra.uni.edu> <3he9dm$naa@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
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Robert C. Vaiden (rcvaiden@prairienet.org) wrote:


: It's something that really tears at you!  We (myself and friends
: here) anguish about that all the time.  Some folks collect just
: within the county (although that's an artificial construction)
: while others may use a (somewhat) arbitrary  distance.  We try
: to collect locally, but since we have the opportunity to plant
: fairly large plots at once (I manage a prairie reconstruction
: project in a local city park....we're at 20 acres now, going
: to 50 acres in the next couple years) we do purchase seed from
: further away.  Ideally, we would collect everything locally,
: but....

: 1. necessities of the situation require we plant faster than
:    we could acquire local seed....and

Please tell me who is this necessity that he/she requires quick results 
in prairie restoration?  Maybe I can suggest some books that tell us that 
50 years is only the first step on the path.  In the mean time maybe 
necessity could read some poetry :-)

 : 2. seed may just not be available (and what's available may
: be protected and hard to acquire!!)

Does the _hard to acquire_  part, necessitate that you risk the remaining 
gene pool to reach your own goals?

snip

: ...also on the subject of genetic variation...part of the
: problem there is the "pool" is already small.  There are
: only 4 sites left (maybe!) where silene regia (Royal
: Catchfly) is still found...no matter what seeds I use, 
: there's not going to be much genetic variation left.


*Maybe* the solution is to first of all convince people to declare the 
remaining four sites heritage centers.  It can be done.

: anyway..you're right....one needs to carefully think out the
: situation...particularly where you're trying to restore a
: site that's still somewhat a prairie.  Where you're trying
: to "build" a new prairie (out of a cornfield in our case),
: I think (hope) that one can be a little more liberal in 
: choice of seed.

I am less convinced for reasons I stated.  I hope you are right.

: there in a few years!.  I don't think it's a losing battle...
: but it's certainly a frustrating one!!!!!!

In my own small way I have been there too.  Frustrating yes. And it only 
promises to get worse, before it gets better, given the current political 
climate.

best wishes
david givers



From lnthomson@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:05 EST 1995
Article: 55439 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lnthomson@aol.com (LnThomson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for "Spirit of Glasnost" rose
Date: 18 Feb 1995 09:26:25 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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You might check with rec.gardens.roses.  Someone will probably know.

Lynn


From pschwal@orion.it.luc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:07 EST 1995
Article: 55440 of rec.gardens
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From: pschwal@orion.it.luc.edu (Patty Schwalm)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: using crocks for patio containers
Date: 16 Feb 1995 02:08:57 GMT
Organization: Loyola University of Chicago
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Paula M Craft (peebee@selway.umt.edu) wrote:
: I got some large crocks at an auction a few years back and I've been 
: using them for patio plants but I have some problems.  

Lucky you, Paula! I'm an antique dealer and a gardener and have
dozens of crocks (all sizes) I use as containers.

Drainage is the main problem (the crocks will *aways* weigh a lot).

I put my plants in those large black plastic containers new
tree/shrubs come in (they have drainage holes in the bottom).
Only enough gravel to keep the drainage holes from leaking *all*
of the soil out (or some mulch; gravel for drainage is overrated).

I ease the plant/plastic container inside the crock,

 *important points*
with a brick or two in the bottom of the crock to elevate it off
the bottom, AND a large saucer of some sort (pottery or tupperware)
under the plastic container to keep some of the overflow water
in the pot plastic container, just as you would with smaller
houseplants.

Now, if you get a lot of rain, you will have to pull the plant
out of the crock and empty it (a pain in the *ss). But if you 
just get a small amount of rain, the brick should keep the container 
elevated enough to prevent becoming oversaturated by being immersed.

In the winter, you can pull the plants/plastic containers inside, 
if you want to maintain them. Be *sure* not to leave the crocks
out in freezing weather (plants are replaceable, but the
crocks will crack, or even explode, under the right 
circumstances of freezing/thawing with water inside).

"double potting" (?) is the basic concept. Great for maintaining
fertizer/water. I've won ribbons for my roses grown in crocks.

Patty, who up until recently had a tiny garden.
*Now* I've got 10 acres  <grin>


From clnichols@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:08 EST 1995
Article: 55441 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: clnichols@aol.com (CLNichols)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Robins!
Date: 18 Feb 1995 09:36:08 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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One year (last year or the one before) I had a robin live at my house all
winter (Indianapolis).  It perched itself in my hawthorne tree and ate
berries for a living.  Usually the robins pick this tree clean before
winter sets in but fortunately for this lone robin they left it alone that
year so it had its own personal food supply.

Cindy


From koob@uhunix4.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:09 EST 1995
Article: 55442 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: koob@uhunix4.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Gregory Koob)
Subject: Re: Is there a tissue culture expert in the house?
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Lynsey Gedye (lynx@surrey.wanganui.gen.nz) wrote:
:   Just back from crushing an african violet under the heel
:   of my sabot...

:   Pray tell, gentle netoids, is it true that tissue culture
:   of plants can be carried out at the kitchen table using care,
:   simple, household chemicals and a certain amount of expertise;
:   or is it strictly for mega-sterile lab conditions filled with
:   white-coated genius types who've never actually seen dirt?

:   Please, share your experience.

: --
: lynx@wanganui.gen.nz

Hey, I run a tissue culture lab here in Hawaii set up to propagate
endangered hawaiian plants and I work in a converted cottage, don't
even own a white coat, am hardly a genius, and have seen plenty of
dirt in my time. :P

Yes you can do tissue culture in your kitchen as you described.  Pototo
farmers in the midwest U.S. started out that way when producing disease
free plants for "seed" production.  But why do you want to.  Tissue culture
produces a lot of plants (potentially) and even when done in the kitchen
is a lot more work than taking a cutting or planting a seed.  I haven't done
it in a kitchen myself but there are references out there on the methods
and materials needed.


From LRFORTNEY@hep.phy.duke.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:10 EST 1995
Article: 55443 of rec.gardens
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From: LRFORTNEY@hep.phy.duke.edu (L. R. Fortney)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Robins!
Date: 20 Feb 1995 12:33:20 GMT
Organization: Physics Department, Duke Univ
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Message-ID: <LRFORTNEY-2002950735050001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu>
References: <donna_menk.216.2F44A43A@radian.com> <3i3865$cip@redstone.interpath.net> <didi.389.2F454694@mis.duke.edu>
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In article <didi.389.2F454694@mis.duke.edu>, didi@mis.duke.edu (Deborah
Pearce) wrote:

> In article <3i3865$cip@redstone.interpath.net>
jmh@anser.pdial.interpath.net (Jeanne Hinds) writes:
> 
> We've got you beat!  We have had robins for the last three weeks in
> >Raleigh, North Carolina!  I've never seen them this early before.
> 
> >+-----------------------------------------+---------------------------+
> >| Jeanne Hinds       
> 
> I know what you mean.  In my Durham, NC, yard I didn't just have one early 
> robin, I had a huge flock of robins.  Usually I see only one or two, and
never 
> this early.
> 

  I also saw a robin in Durham a couple of days ago, but I don't think it
is part of the spring migration.  When that comes through, I'll see fifty
or so birds in a day and the berries on my holly will disappear.

-- 
Lloyd Fortney ---Opinions, just opinions---


From bobp@cyberquest.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:12 EST 1995
Article: 55444 of rec.gardens
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From: bobp@cyberquest.com (I wish people would use email)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: dog repellent (non-toxic)?
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 01:05:58 GMT
Organization: Cyberquest
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References: <1995Feb5.175250.18096@sei.cmu.edu>,<3h6ahi$f8u@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3h884u$rei@hammer.msfc.nasa.gov> <allyn-0702952154490001@pacts46.phys.washington.edu>
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I couldn't find the original message writer, and that's the only reason I'm 
posting.  

People in a nearby neighborhood swear by the following method:
	Fill up several old milk jugs with diluted amonia...perhaps diluted enough to 
take away any health risk.  Poke small holes in the cap and cover them.  Place 
the jugs in your yard, at the perimeter where you're being invaded.  They're 
ugly, so I'd bury them up to the neck if I were you, whoever you are!  Good 
luck!


From topsoil@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:13 EST 1995
Article: 55445 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Apple, Fig, Avocado and Walnut
Date: 20 Feb 1995 02:09:01 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil)
Status: O
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Howdy...

Dormant oil (there are multiple brand names, no doubt) is a relatively
common (and relatively benign) treatment for apples.  Sprayed in the
winter, it suffocates the eggs of various insect pests.  I seem to recall
that the state where I worked on an organic apple operation even allowed
dormant oil as an "organic" treatment.

I believe that avocados are self-fruitful.  However, they take a long time
to mature -- this year's flowers are next year's fruit.

Good luck,
E Johnson


From topsoil@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:14 EST 1995
Article: 55446 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Carnivorous plants - Help?
Date: 20 Feb 1995 02:16:53 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hi Michael,

I haven't checked it out myself, but there is an ongoing email exchange on
carnivorous plants.  Subscribe by sending an email message to
listserv@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com, with SUB CP YourFirstName YourLastName as
the only text of the message.  Good luck!

--E Johnson


From topsoil@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:16 EST 1995
Article: 55447 of rec.gardens
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From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Blue Gramma Grass seedheads???
Date: 20 Feb 1995 02:33:38 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hi Nancy,

They are soft and feathery seedheads.  I started some on a section of my
parents' lawn last year.  It was sown in July, but had flowered and set
seed by the end of the growing season.  Neat stuff!

Good luck!

-- Eric Johnson


From trystsch@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:18 EST 1995
Article: 55448 of rec.gardens
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From: trystsch@aol.com (TRYSTSCH)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Water gardens/garden ponds
Date: 20 Feb 1995 02:37:48 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I am interested in getting info on garden ponds, water plants, outdoor
fish  care and any related subjects. Does anyone know where I can find
this sort of stuff?  Thanks,
Trysta

Trysta in Running Springs


From klapoint@teleport.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:20 EST 1995
Article: 55449 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!library.ucla.edu!psgrain!rainrgnews0!news.teleport.com!ip-pdx3-20.teleport.com!klapoint
From: klapoint@teleport.com (Kathleen LaPoint)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Wisconsin gardening
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 1995 12:20:40
Organization: Teleport,Inc.
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  I am planning a move to Wisconsin this year and I need a good book to help 
me make the transition from gardening in the Pacific Northwest to the upper 
Midwest.  I love the Sunset  Western Garden Book  for its specific regional 
gardening info  - is there an equivalent book for the Midwest ?

     thanks,
     K.La Point


From Thomas_Bjorkman@cornell.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:22 EST 1995
Article: 55450 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user
From: Thomas_Bjorkman@cornell.edu (Thomas Bjorkman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: POISON OAK
Date: 20 Feb 1995 14:15:15 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
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> Steven M. Begley (sbegley@voicenet.com) wrote:

> [snip] 
> : I answered someone a few weeks ago about Poison Ivy. Poison Oak is not
native 
> : to this area, however, if memory serves, Poison Ivy is Toxidendron
toxifolia, 
> : and Poison Oak is Toxidendron quecifolia. (People in the discussion about 
> : botanical names, take note: Toxideldron (self explanatory)  quercus (Oak) 
> : folia (leafed)

I'm afraid memory does not serve.
Poison oak is Toxicodendron diversilobum (T&G) Greene
Poison ivy is T. radicans (L)  Kuntze

Poison oak has also been called T. pubescens P. Mill., by Karetz and
Ghandi (Phytologia 1991), but I have not seen that name used elsewhere.

Poison ivy has some additional forms proposed by Reveal (Phytologia 1990):
Toxicodendron radicans (L.) Kuntze: 
var. pubens (Engelm. ex S. Watson) comb, nov., 
var. barkleyi (Gillis) comb. nov.,
var. negundo (E. Greene) comb.  nov.
[Basionyms includes: Rhus toxicodendron var. pubens, T. radicans ssp.
barkleyi, and T. negundo.]

It is still failry common to see the old genus Rhus used by lumpers.

-- 
Thomas Bjorkman    Dept. of Horticultural Sciences   Cornell University


From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:24 EST 1995
Article: 55451 of rec.gardens
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From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: office plants?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 03:06:34 GMT
Organization: inlink
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A Janet Craig Dracaena will survive and give a good showing...  Gary

Michel Lacroix (mlacroi@CAM.ORG) wrote:
: In article <3hk81h$h61@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us> a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Troy Taylor) writes:
: >From: a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Troy Taylor)
: >Subject: office plants?
: >Date: 12 Feb 1995 00:58:09 -0500

: >Can anyone suggest plants other than philladendrum that can thrive 
: >without sunlight in an office environment with only flourescent lighting?
: >-- 

: >Troy Taylor
: >a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us




From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:25 EST 1995
Article: 55452 of rec.gardens
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From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: office plants?
Date: 19 Feb 1995 03:08:11 GMT
Organization: inlink
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Michel Lacroix (mlacroi@CAM.ORG) wrote:
: In article <3hk81h$h61@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us> a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Troy Taylor) writes:
: >From: a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Troy Taylor)
: >Subject: office plants?
: >Date: 12 Feb 1995 00:58:09 -0500

: >Can anyone suggest plants other than philladendrum that can thrive 
: >without sunlight in an office environment with only flourescent lighting?
: >-- 

: >Troy Taylor
: >a013777t@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us

A Janet Craig Dracaena will do very well and give a good showing with very
little care.   Gary



From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:27 EST 1995
Article: 55453 of rec.gardens
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From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: What is a weed
Date: 19 Feb 1995 03:10:45 GMT
Organization: inlink
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3i6crl$7vn@thor.inlink.com>
References: <9501312116591.The_Win-D.jfsanders@delphi.com> <1995Feb2.172337.21778@leo.vsla.edu> <warden-0702951118370001@fonebone.patnet.caltech.edu> <3hap56$rgo@prop.wes.army.mil> <Pine.A32.3.91c.950215210951.14543A-100000@homer05.u.washington.edu>
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Karen Russell (russe@u.washington.edu) wrote:

: And somebody else whose name I don't recall said, A weed is a plant that 
: has mastered every trick of survival except growing in rows.
: Karen

: On 8 Feb 1995, Harry Boswell wrote:

: > I think it was Whitman who said "A weed is a plant whose virtues have not 
: > yet been discovered"
: > 
: > --
: > Harry Boswell                 hboswell@ICchip.wes.army.mil  
: > Information Technology Laboratory
: > U.S. Army Corps of Engineers        Vicksburg, MS
: > 
A weed is any plant, beneficial or not, growing in a place where you don't
want it...  simple as that....
:: > 


From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:29 EST 1995
Article: 55454 of rec.gardens
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From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: net-legislation
Date: 19 Feb 1995 03:11:36 GMT
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Lines: 14
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References: <1995Feb16.051949.5875@sangam.ncst.ernet.in>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vulcan.inlink.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
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Sanjeev - UPL -Bonet (upll@soochak.ncst.ernet.in) wrote:


: --

: ============================================================================
: Sanjeev Trivedi         UNIPHOS HOUSE      Tel: +91-22-6041111
:                         C.D. MARG          Fax: +91-22-6041010
: Corporate Manager       Khar(W),           
: United Phosphorus Ltd   Bombay-400052      sanjeev@mcimail.com
: 			INDIA.		   upll@soochak.ncst.ernet.in

A weed is any plant, beneficial or not, growing where you don't want it...
: ============================================================================


From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:30 EST 1995
Article: 55455 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!news.starnet.net!wupost!thor.inlink.com!vulcan.inlink.com!raiar
From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: hydroponics
Date: 19 Feb 1995 12:24:18 GMT
Organization: inlink
Lines: 15
Distribution: na
Message-ID: <3i7d9i$ak4@thor.inlink.com>
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Terry L. Harvey (tlharvey@omnifest.uwm.edu) wrote:
: My daughter is doing a science project on HYDROPONICS.  If anyone has any
: information or any idea where I might find info, please email me.

: Thank you.

: tlharvey@omnifest.uwm.edu

Hi Terry
Need specifics, 
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr., Chief Olericulturist
EcoTeck Hydroculture
raiar@inlink.com




From thoren@aristotle.se Mon Mar  6 10:39:32 EST 1995
Article: 55456 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!seunet!news2.swip.net!aristotle.algonet.se!usenet
From: Martin Thoren <thoren@aristotle.se>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worm composting help needed
Date: 20 Feb 1995 14:28:19 GMT
Organization: AlgoNet Public Access Node, Stockholm
Lines: 29
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References: <3halvo$50q@crl5.crl.com>
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watkins@crl.com (Anna Watkins) wrote:
>
> Nothing I've read about vermicomposting tells me what do do when things 
> go really wrong (maybe I'm the only one who messes it up??!)
> 
> My worm bin smells really gross -- like sewage and ammonia.  I suspect my 
> worms have died (what a bad mom I am).  What have I done -- did I not 
> drain it often enough, or remove finished compost enough?  Also, I am 
> having a problem with fruit flies (I've never seen really mature fruit 
> flies before, so at least I've learned something!)
> 
> Can anyone help me with this?  To fix it, will I have to totally clean it 
> out and start again?
> 
> Can I use the finished compost (even though it smells wrong) or will it 
> hurt my plants?
> 

Well, I have had the same problem, The smell is caused by to little oxygen
When the organic stuff decomposes it will need oxygen, just like a fire. 
But when there is no oxygen the bacterias and stuff that decompses it will 
decomposes the stuff in another way, creating H2S (dihyrdogensulfid). 
The smell is easy avoided by mixing the composed with something that will
let the oxygen slip through.
I don't know weather or not the worms are alive, H2S is poisionus
to most living organisms 

Good luck!!!



From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:33 EST 1995
Article: 55457 of rec.gardens
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From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: witch hazel
Date: 18 Feb 1995 16:00:44 GMT
Message-ID: <446431.9385906@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 2
Status: O
X-Status: 

My witch hazel in Central MA blooms in February. My question is Are there any
insects at that time to polinate the blossoms?


From Polikoff@razorbill.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:35 EST 1995
Article: 55458 of rec.gardens
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From: Polikoff@razorbill.com (Arnold Polikoff)
Reply-To: Polikoff@razorbill.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: tomatoes in container? How deep?
Date: 18 Feb 1995 16:01:53 GMT
Message-ID: <790953950.9385920@razorbill.com>
Organization: Razorbill Systems
Lines: 2
Status: O
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When tomatos are planted in a garden the roots go down about 14 feet. YES
fourteen feet.


From jgray@term2.cnde.iastate.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:37 EST 1995
Article: 55459 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!term2.cnde.iastate.edu!jgray
From: jgray@term2.cnde.iastate.edu (Joe Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: gentiana germination
Date: 20 Feb 1995 14:25:04 GMT
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  I have tried for the last several years to grow Gentiana from 
seed and have not been able to get it to germinate. I have
some seed, which I believe to be fresh and which I have had
in the fridge for two months. The seed is G. angustifolia and
G. asclepiadea.  In the past I have started gentiana in peat pots 
with a soiless mix.  They are kept moist with a cover lid to keep 
the humidity up. Has anyone been able to get Gentiana to grow from 
seed?  Is there any special steps that need to be followed?

Joe Gray
jgray@cnde.iastate.edu


From defurst@u.washington.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:38 EST 1995
Article: 55460 of rec.gardens
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From: defurst@u.washington.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Botanical Software???
Date: 18 Feb 1995 16:54:34 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <3i58oa$af9@nntp1.u.washington.edu>
References: <grumbo.171.00359EBE@niagara.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
Status: O
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I believe the new and soon-to-be-released DCROM version of Sunset's 
Garden Book meets most if not all of your criteria, however it covers 
plants most suitable for the US West. 

In addition, I have found these products, looking since ~August/94:

     Hort-A-Sort ($69.95) from Birdbrain Software easily wins the 
silliest name award, but its 2,000 plant encyclopedia shows an 
intelligent mind under the humor. Hort-A-Sort is divided into nine 
databases, but they seem more logical than Flower Finder's three -- 
flowering plants, for example, are lumped together, with separate 
categories for cacti and succulents, alpine and rock plants, herbs and 
everlastings, etc. No plants can be added, and the biggest drawback is 
you can only search by one criterion at a time. This is laborious (and 
searches are slow even in the small-sized demo version I reviewed), but 
help menus are onscreen to list choices. Herb information was especially 
good, and there are plant sources for all entries.
Hort-A-Sort
Birdbrain Software
S74 W20800 Field Dr.
Muskego, WI 53150

===

     Plant-finder programs are enormously useful, integrating lots of 
encyclopedic information, a definite advantage over paging through 
scattered books and catalogs, and good systems make searches fast and 
efficient. The Cadillac of the plant-finders is Hortis Opis ($250). Only 
Volume I is available, with 5,000 trees, shrubs, vines, bamboos and 
grasses. Complete with cultivars and vendor sources, it's a computerized 
catalog. (Unfortunately, Volume II -- annuals, perennials, bulbs, roses, 
ferns -- may be awhile, and vegetables aren't even planned.) Easy and 
well designed, Hortis Opis has 18 search criteria with pop-up help menus, 
a gratifying feature. Plant information is meticulous and exhaustive, 
with a pop-up journal for notes. If you could add plants to this 
magnificent encyclopedia, Hortis Opis would be perfect.  
Hortis Opis
J. Mendoza Gardens
18 E. 16th St.
New York City, NY 10003
212-989-4253

*************

If you receive other inforomation directly, would you repost it or 
forward it to me as well? Thanx.

In article <grumbo.171.00359EBE@niagara.com>,
Grahame Rumsby <grumbo@niagara.com> wrote:
>Does anyone know of either CD or regular software that has photos, 
>descriptions, latin as well as common plant names that are searchable and able 
>to be cross referenced???
>Have been looking 4 some time but not 2 lucky as of yet..
>
>Thanx,
>
>Grahame




From flyinggoat@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:39 EST 1995
Article: 55461 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: flyinggoat@aol.com (Flyinggoat)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: "bare root" blackberries arrived yesterday
Date: 18 Feb 1995 12:02:08 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 15
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Reply-To: flyinggoat@aol.com (Flyinggoat)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
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Hi! 
I'm just south of you in Mountain View. 
    Put them in a bucket of water immediatly, to help them recover from
the shock of shipping.   DON"T let them dry out.  Certain death!
    AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, go out and dig the hole where you are going to
put them.   I usually take the sawdust in the bag with the roots and mix
it with the soil I've just dug out for some free mulch/compost.  Fertize
with whatever you want, following directions.  Get those plants into the
ground as soon as possible!  We're almost past bare-root season in the Bay
Area.                 .     I'm still waiting for my back-east berries to
be shipped, and I'm worried I'll miss the best dates, and that they'll
start sprouting in the mail once they hit warm California weather.

Betty Cunningham(Flyinggoat@aol.com)
illustrator, animator, and likes to collect dead things


From cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:39:40 EST 1995
Article: 55462 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
References: <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com>
Organization: Wordshop
Reply-To: cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27
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Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk
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In article <robinson.793067405@ichips.intel.com>
           robinson@ichips.intel.com "David Lyle Robinson" writes:

> I recently looked at a booklett written by Jerry Baker
> that suggests using epsom salts as a spring soil preparation.
> It even suggests using it in potting soil for starting
> transplants.  In other places, the booklett suggests using
> dish soap and instant tea as a fertilizer.
> 
> Has anyone ever heard of this, and if so what is in
> these that makes it work?  Sounds like a bunch of
> unfounded hocus-pocus claims to me, but I'm open
> to learning new tricks.

Epsom salts are no problem at all - in fact they're magnesium sulphate
which ends-up as magnesium, as far as your plants are concerned. 
Magnesium deficiencies are quite common and certain plants (roses, 
tomatoes and chrysanthemums for example) are particularly prone to 
this.

I'd suggest, however, that this author is simply wrong in suggesting
that it be used universally. It's normally included in sufficient
quantities in commercially prepared potting mixtures and is present in
all good compound fertilisers, including seed-starting and potting
bases. I can't see why he really thinks it is necessary unless you have 
a proven Mg deficiency.

Meanwhile, I haven't a *clue* what he thinks is in instant tea 
(being English, the very notion of it makes me shudder <g>) and I am
highly suspicious of "dish soap". My *guess* would be that 
he might be suggesting soap as a form of wetting agent, but,
even then, I find it hard to believe it would be the best choice.

Hope that's some help,

-- 
Gary Cooper


From uskmg@unix.cc.emory.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:42 EST 1995
Article: 55463 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!news.cc.emory.edu!uskmg
From: uskmg@emoryu1.cc.emory.edu (Ken Guyton)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: McCaslin Pole Beans
Date: 18 Feb 1995 17:25:00 GMT
Organization: Emory University Information Technology Division
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Reply-To: uskmg@unix.cc.emory.edu
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I am looking for [McCaslin] pole bean seeds (I am not sure of the
spelling).  Can anyone point me toward information or a source (of
seeds)?  In years past one could order/buy them from the Hastings Seed
Company in Atlanta but apparently not any more.

Email responses would be greatly appreciated.  I will summarize them
to the list.

--
Ken Guyton, Emory University    | PREFERRED:  uskmg@unix.cc.emory.edu
Information Technology Division | UUCP:      ...gatech!emoryu1!uskmg
Atlanta, GA 30322               | NON-DOMAIN BITNET:   uskmg@emoryu1
Phone: (404) 727-7685           | FAX:  (404) 727-2599


From appleby@alcoa.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:43 EST 1995
Article: 55464 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!jmf-amct.atc.alcoa.com!eja-amct.atc.alcoa.com!user
From: appleby@alcoa.com (E. J. Appleby)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mac Software
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 12:06:48 -0500
Organization: Alcoa Technical Center
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <appleby-2002951206480001@eja-amct.atc.alcoa.com>
References: <3i3stv$cmu@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <3i3stv$cmu@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, augustine9@aol.com
(Augustine9) wrote:

> I am interested in gardening software for the Mac.  The only one I have
> seen is "Flowerscape." Can anyone review this for me?  Are there other
> quality programs available?  Thanks
> 
> Ley Brown

There is an excellent review of Flowerscape on the World Wide Web.  It can
be accessed directly by using MacWeb and going to the URL:
http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/fsca.  For some reason when you try to
do the same thing using Mosaic, it tells you that it cannot find the URL. 
However you can still get there by going to the parent directory
http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden, which presents you with an index from
which you can choose fscape1.htm for the illustrated version of the review
or fscape2.htm for the text only version.  Enjoy.


From jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US Mon Mar  6 10:39:44 EST 1995
Article: 55465 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!mr.net!InforMNs.k12.MN.us!NewsWatcher!user
From: jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US (Janine Dahms Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Column on net gardening
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 17 Feb 1995 16:45:29 GMT
Organization: Internet for Minnesota Schools Project
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <jwalker-170295104352@199.86.65.2>
References: <3hvtsb$69g@grape.epix.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: stc1-2.nas.mr.net
Status: O
X-Status: 

> I am writing a newspaper piece on garden resources on the net.
Blake- When you finish your article, why not post it here as a resource? 
Just a thought.  Janine


From pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:45 EST 1995
Article: 55466 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!kiwi!pat
From: pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu (Pat)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Robins!
Date: 17 Feb 1995 17:10:24 GMT
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3i2la2$ltn@pandora.sdsu.edu>
References: <donna_menk.216.2F44A43A@radian.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kiwi.sdsu.edu
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Menk, Donna (donna_menk@radian.com) wrote:
: Spring can't be too far behind--my front yard has been full of robins
: this week! (I'm in Austin, Texas.)

: Donna

I remember what Robins look like.  Red breast, right?

-pat (looking for Robins in all the wrong places)
pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu




From bgreen1229@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:49 EST 1995
Article: 55467 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bgreen1229@aol.com (BGreen1229)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: use of dormant sprays on fruit trees
Date: 20 Feb 1995 00:29:38 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
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since i recently learned that i've missed the time for dormant sprays, if
i do have problems with insects, mites, etc; what should i do, esp. if i
prefer not using potentially harmful insecticides.   thanks               
                                            bert
  









From herbgrow@pipeline.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:50 EST 1995
Article: 55468 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail
From: herbgrow@pipeline.com (Wendy Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Rooting Geraniums
Date: 20 Feb 1995 12:19:07 -0500
Organization: The Pipeline
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <3iaiub$rn0@pipe2.pipeline.com>
References: <3i8rb5$3g7@smarty.smart.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe2.pipeline.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

In rec.gardens kovler@smart.net (Ken Kovler) said: 
>I have 5 Geranium plants that I brought indoors in Fall 1994.  They are  
>growing very well indoors.  However, I now would like to grow additional  
>Geranium plants from cuttings of these plants.  Does anyone know how to
root 
>Geranium plants from already established plants to be planted outdoors  
>in Spring 1995? 
 
Geranium cuttings root very easily.  
 
Cut 4 inch pieces from fairly new growth just below a leaf node 
and strip off the bottom leaves. let these cuttings sit in a 
cool place out of direct sun overnight so that the scars on the 
stem form a calluses. Plant about half way deep in sandy soil  
and keep moist until new roots form from the calloused scars. 
 
Some people don't bother with letting the calluses form. It is 
possible to just clip off a stem, stick it in soil and let it 
grow, but you should get more consistent results by letting the 
stems sit overnight. 
 
Try it both ways and experiment. With 5 plants you should get 
plenty of cuttings. 
 
Good luck and have fun. 
- 
Wendy                  |Free email herb plant & 
Harbor View Garden Co. |seed catalog available  
Herbgrow@pipeline.com  |Harbor@pipeline.com 


From mfrost@primenet.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:51 EST 1995
Article: 55469 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!gmi!msunews!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip021.lax.primenet.com!mfrost
From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Effect of Climate-Lavender Blooms
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 08:06:29 PST
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <mfrost.293.001BEC67@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip021.lax.primenet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]
Status: O
X-Status: 

Hi,
I have lavender (angustifolium cv) plants in So Cal. which typically have 
blooms of a light bluish cast, but this year, after an unusual abundance of 
rain, the first blooms have the deeper purplish colour that appears in 
pictures of lavender. I had been looking longingly at the purples in a british 
gardening mag, and went outside to critique mine. No squinting was needed to 
*see* purple. Does this mean lavender responds to watering more positively? I 
have been conservative in watering, and have excellent drainage.The plants 
thrive and have a long bloom season. I realize different cvs would have 
degrees of colour but this surprised me. Also, the cuttings that I took from 
the older plant have even deeper shades. Is this a way to decide on which 
branches to select?

Regards, Martha
mfrost@primenet.com


From raph@panache.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  6 10:39:53 EST 1995
Article: 55470 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: uk.events,rec.gardens,uk.misc
From: raph@panache.demon.co.uk (Raphael Mankin)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!panache.demon.co.uk!raph
Subject: Re: Seeking Garden Tours in England
References: <3i02d1$o1e@panix.com>
Organization: Maps for the Million
Reply-To: raph@panache.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 18:55:18 +0000
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Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <3i02d1$o1e@panix.com> csddept@panix.com "Dana Rachlin" writes:

> We are looking for information on garden tours in England for this coming 
> spring (April & May). Any suggestions, contacts would be wonderful. 
> 
Get the National Trust book of gardens open to the public. 

-- 
Raphael Mankin		Resolute (adj): Obstinate in a course of which we 
					approve.
			Ambrose Bierce - The Devil's Dictionary


From ruthann@mitre.org Mon Mar  6 10:39:54 EST 1995
Article: 55471 of rec.gardens
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From: ruthann@mitre.org (Ruth Ann Brasie Valentine)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: GRASSES
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 17 Feb 1995 15:53:31 GMT
Organization: MITRE
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Message-ID: <ruthann-170295105150@brasie.mitre.org>
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I am on my town's local conservation commission.  Does anyone have a source
for grasses that would be appropriate for wetland re-seeding? 

We were talking about a non-clumping kind of grass.  Someone thought there
was a catalog place in wisconsin that carries such grass seed.

Please e-mail as I cannot regularly read the net.

Thanks,  RA

-- 
All opinions and ideas were generated independently by me. 


From defurst@u.washington.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:55 EST 1995
Article: 55472 of rec.gardens
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From: defurst@u.washington.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Trellis/Support:  if not PT wood, what else?
Date: 17 Feb 1995 18:22:44 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Lines: 24
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In article <3i2gfp$4dd@courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com>,
Amy Moseley Rupp <amy@michael.austin.mcd.mot.com> wrote:
>I've been following the PT wood thread, because I've two climbing
>roses and plan for more vines into the spring and summer.  If you
>don't use PT wood, what do you use?
>
>I saw some cedar lattice at Home Depot; it was relatively flimsy.  Would
>it hold up?  Do you nail it directly to the fence?  The fence itself is
>pressure-treated; if the trellis and the fence are in close proximity,
>will that cause a problem?
>
>I love the look of the wrought iron trellises, but am wondering if they
>would look silly up against a typical 6' privacy fence.
>
>Finally,  are there good mail order sources for trellising?
>
>Thanks!
>-- 
>Amy Moseley Rupp               108 Wild Basin Ste. 108, Austin, Texas 78746
>Motorola Computer Group                 FAX:  (512) 329-7131
>amy@austin.mcd.mot.com   alphanumeric pgr: (512) 933-5511, pgr 327117 (300 baud)
>(512) 329-7117                 digital pgr: (512) 933-7333, pgr 327117




From edrn@dlep1.itg.ti.com Mon Mar  6 10:39:57 EST 1995
Article: 55473 of rec.gardens
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From: edrn@dlep1.itg.ti.com (Lynnette)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Disaster: Novice plants seeds to save money...help !!
Date: 17 Feb 1995 18:09:55 GMT
Organization: Texas Instruments
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3i2opj$jdj@tilde.csc.ti.com>
References: <3i0nra$gma@tilde.csc.ti.com> <3i1cin$idk@news.rain.org>
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In article <3i1cin$idk@news.rain.org>, steven@rain.org () says:
>
>To start off with, where are you keeping the pots after planting the 
>seeds?  In the sun?  Shade?  How cold/warm is it?  Impatiens likes temps 
>in the upper 60s to low 70s.  

Yes, they're warm on a window sill, but I did not pre-moisten the soil. It was kinda
 wet anyway, having been in a plastic bag. I did
cover them at about 1/4". The packet instructions are so vague.  It is hard to 
keep them moist. Should I cover them in plastic wrap after I water them next ?
I've been spraying them with a water bottle, but this takes a long time. And 
they dry out after one day with just spraying them.

Copyright 1995 by
Lynnette Edrington Dallas, Tx
All rights reserved.


From XL00KAO@cpua.it.luc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:39:58 EST 1995
Article: 55474 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!apollo!cpua.it.luc.edu!XL00KAO
From: XL00KAO@cpua.it.luc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: european buckthorn
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 16:06
Organization: Loyola University of Chicago
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     I DESPISE EUROPEAN BUCKTHORN, AN INVADER THAT IS FRIGHTENINGLY
SUCCESSFUL.  I LIVE ON A FOREST PRESERVE AND IT IS ENCROACHING ON ALL
THE FOREST EDGES AROUND.  THERE IS NOW A PERIMETER OF IT AROUND MY YARD
IT HAS TENACIOUS ROOTS SO THAT EVEN A SEEDLING IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET OUT.
IT DOES PROVIDE A FOOD SOURCE FOR BIRDS AND DEER BUT THAT JUST
CONTRIBUTES TO ITS SPREAD.  I GET WHAT I CAN, BUT IT AIN'T EASY. ITS
A PROLIFIC SO AND SO.  HAS ANYONE HAD SUCCESS WITH THIS INVADER?


From pattibelle@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:00 EST 1995
Article: 55475 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PATTIBELLE <pattibelle@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poison Ivy/Oak FAQ
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 95 02:50:01 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <pW6Y0vJ.pattibelle@delphi.com>
References: <1995Feb19.203028.727@titan.sfasu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: Ron Rushing <f_rushingrg@titan.sfasu.edu>
Status: O
X-Status: 

Ron:
 
If you have any information on the use of Procardia to stop an attack of
poison oak, I'd sure appreciate it!  Also, have you heard of Domeboro?
I used it for the first time last November, but not soon enough.  The
stuff was all over my arms from cutting brush.
 
Pat in Napa, CA
(afraid to go cut brush because of poison oak possibility)


From jmbehnke@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:01 EST 1995
Article: 55476 of rec.gardens
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From: jmbehnke@aol.com (JMBehnke)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Horseradish
Date: 20 Feb 1995 14:27:47 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
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We accidently roto-tilled our horseradish one year and now we have
horseradish coming up everywhere.  Does anyone know a good way of
eliminating it.  Digging hasn't worked because one little piece of root
grows into a new plant.


From diane@retro.fccc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:03 EST 1995
Article: 55477 of rec.gardens
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From: diane <diane@retro.fccc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pruning of apple and peach trees in PA
Date: 17 Feb 1995 18:06:40 GMT
Organization: Fox Chase Cancer Center
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X-XXMessage-ID: <AB6A50A41A010B4A@retro.fccc.edu>
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I am wondering how late in the winter or early in the spring I should
prune apple and peach trees.  I know that this should be done before the
sap begins to run.  Any suggestions?

Diane

Diane@retro.fccc.edu


From diane@retro.fccc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:05 EST 1995
Article: 55478 of rec.gardens
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From: diane <diane@retro.fccc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: growing apricot trees in PA
Date: 17 Feb 1995 18:10:25 GMT
Organization: Fox Chase Cancer Center
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I would like to grow apricot trees in my yard in PA.  Any suggestions on
varieties or successful propagation?
Diane
Diane@retro.fccc.edu


From rwinder@PFC.Forestry.CA Mon Mar  6 10:40:06 EST 1995
Article: 55480 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: rwinder@PFC.Forestry.CA (Richard Winder)
Subject: Re: WARNING: This Group About To Be  DELETED!!
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Organization: Forestry Canada (Pacific Forestry Centre)
References: <3hs38t$e00@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3htnj6$8is@uwm.edu> <3hts8h$4ql@news.bu.edu> <3i179c$jio@uwm.edu>,<3i3155$ip1@news.bu.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 17:46:39 GMT
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In article <3i3155$ip1@news.bu.edu>, slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes:
>Jennifer Fruhbauer (fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) wrote:
>: Sherry Bailey (slbailey@bu.edu) wrote:
>: : IF PEOPLE WOULD LEARN TO SCREEN SUBJECT LINES WITH THEIR NEWSREADERS, THE
>: : NUMBER OF POSTS PER DAY (which is the ONLY motivation for splitting I have
>: : seen) BECOMES IRRELEVANT.
>
>: BUT IT IS A PAIN IN THE ARSE TO DO SO 
>
>To YOU.  I do it every day in a dozen newsgroups, including this one, and *I*
>think it's easy. Why do you expect the rest of us to modify the newsgroup for
>YOUR comfort?

I'm afraid I agree with Sherry here.  It is much more painless to skim through
a directory of article titles than to plow through every day's batch of
articles.  For my reader, it is straightforward (help can be handy command!).
I suspect most readers have this capability, if people would take the time to
learn how to do it.  With participation in the networks steadily increasing, 
people will have to change the way that they view some newsgroups and 
participate in them- to me, this group is kind of like a gardening magazine-
you pick the topics that are of interest to you, and pass over the rest.  If 
a significant body of people all want to connect with each other, lists get 
started.  If traffic on the list gets out of hand, then you start to see a 
push for a real group.	-RSW

  RICHARD WINDER                    Title: Research Scientist
  Canadian Forest Service           Phone: (604) 363-0773
  Victoria, B.C.                    Internet: RWINDER@A1.PFC.Forestry.CA


From sfo@bu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:08 EST 1995
Article: 55481 of rec.gardens
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From: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Water gardens/garden ponds
Date: 21 Feb 1995 00:03:53 GMT
Organization: Boston University
Lines: 15
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Status: O
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Isn't the new usenet group called
rec.ponds
or
rec.gardens.ponds?
It splintered off from rec.gardens
a couple of months ago.


TRYSTSCH (trystsch@aol.com) wrote:
: I am interested in getting info on garden ponds, water plants, outdoor
: fish  care and any related subjects. Does anyone know where I can find
: this sort of stuff?  Thanks,
: Trysta

: Trysta in Running Springs


From russe@u.washington.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:09 EST 1995
Article: 55482 of rec.gardens
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From: Karen Russell <russe@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: dog repellent (non-toxic)?
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 13:30:08 -0800
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 55
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On Sat, 18 Feb 1995, Steven M. Begley wrote:

> In article <95021312503442@ccsalpha1.nrl.navy.mil> nrl6001@ccsalpha1.nrl.navy.MIL writes:
> >From: nrl6001@ccsalpha1.nrl.navy.MIL
> >Subject: Re: dog repellent (non-toxic)?
> >Date: 13 Feb 1995 18:00:33 -0000
> 
> >Nisheeth Agrawal (agrawal@gracie) writes:
> 
> >>  ...a neighbor...walks her dog without leash and
> >>  lets the bitch go in my front lawn
> 

PLEASE talk to your neighbor first.  Excrement is embarassing and chances 
are she will at least keep her dog out of _your_ yard.  People are 
basically non-confrontational (witness the original poster talking to us 
instead of the neighbor ;)) and if you talk to her in a 
non-confrontational way, she has no reason to escalate.  What is she 
going to say,  "My dog can crap anywhere and I don't have to pick it up?"
We have an otherwise wonderful offending neighbor and we don't say 
anything because it's not egregious and we're not confrontational (we 
meaning the surrounding neighbors who have discussed it amongst 
themselves).  We have a new neighbor who immediately called animal 
control on the offending neighbor's dog and the health department on the 
compost pile.  We HATE the whistleblower.  We might not notice if his 
house was on fire.  (He also threatened to 
shoot this dog to the offending neighbor's 12 year old daughter.)  So, 
deal with your neighbor personally. 
Karen

> 
> If you do decide to confront the neigbor, I suggest you first call the cops 
> and file a complaint. They may talk to the neigbor on your behalf, and they 
> may not. If they don't, complain again, and again. Even if the cops don't do 
> anything, they will have a record of your complaint(s). You keep a record 
> also. Photos are a great idea, too. 
> 
> With a record of complaints, and some photos, you have several options:
> You can seek leagal relief through the local courts (see below) or you can 
> first confront the neigbor, but do it carefully. DO NOT MAKE ANY THREATS!!!!
> 
> If the situation doesn't improve, go down to the local Magistrate, Justice of 
> the Peace, or whatever you call the centurions in your area, and ask for a 
> restraining order. Then, the next time it happens, the neigbor will be in 
> contempt of court. And then the REAL fun can start! Judges don't like people 
> who ignore court orders.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Steven
> 
> 



From fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:11 EST 1995
Article: 56244 of rec.gardens
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From: fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu (Jennifer Fruhbauer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.arts.bonsai,alt.bonsai,sci.aquaria
Subject: READ RE: rec.plants.*
Date: 27 Feb 1995 03:45:49 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.169.1
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I am re-posting the RFD by R. J. Sexton:  Please note that it states that
all follow-up discussion is to be held in new.groups.  Whether you agree or
disagree with the proposal, YOU SHOULD BE POSTING ALL REPLIES/DISCUSSIONS TO
news.groups, this way, all groups involved (see below) will be able to
follow the discussion.  

So please, keep all of your replies where they belong, in news.groups.

Note:  I did not post to all the groups involved (I excluded rec.ponds, 
rec.gardens.orchids, alt.aquaria, rec.aquaria, bionet.plants, and 
rec.gardens.roses) because after subscribing to these I found that there was
no follow-up discussions on the proposed re-organization.)

Jennifer Fruhbauer
fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu
*******

Newsgroups: news.announce.newgroups,news.groups,rec.gardens,
rec.arts.bonsai,alt.bonsai,rec.gardens.orchids,rec.gardens.roses
Subject: 2nd RFD: rec.plants.*
Followup-To: news.groups
Date: 12 Feb 1995 22:23:30 -0500

                 Request for Discussion: rec.plants.*
Proposal for a newsgroups reorganization of plant specific newsgroups

by: Richard J. Sexton (richard@panchax.gryphon.com)
---------------------------------------------------

GROUPS AFFECTED:

rec.gardens
rec.gardens.roses
rec.gardens.orchids
rec.arts.bonsai
*.aquaria
bionet.plants


INTRODUCTION

Currently, the top level hierarchy for most things plant related on
usenet is rec.gardens.

This probably made sense back when rec.gardens was created, becuse in
that timeframe most newsgruops on usenet were computer related and
non computer groups took rather a back seat. Usenet has grown (sic)
however, and this is no longer the case. As such, lumping everything
plant related under rec.gardens does not make sense in many cases,
especially when one considers possible future plant-related newsgroups.


JUSTIFICATION:

Many newsgroups that could not have existed back when rec.gardens
was created (.orchids, .bonsai) are currently successful newgroups,
yet they are classified under rec.gardens. Although this is not
completely inappropriate, it does not scale well, since gardens
is a subset of plants, not vice versa. One scarcly has a "garden"
or orchids - one has a collection. One does not "garden" houseplants,
nor does one "garden" bonsai.

Future possible groups include ones for Bromeliads, Gesenerids and
carniverous plants, as all have successfull mailing lists, and it's
only a matter of time until they will be newsgroups. These are
not best classified under rec.gardens.

If we follow the International Committee on Zoological Nomenclature (ICZN)
model for biological taxonomy, in spirit, but not in letter, then the
higher levels of newsgroups classification should be broad sweeping
classification. Rec.gardens is not, and following the idea set
by the rec.animals.* reorganization, I feel it is time to re-examine
the taxonomy of plant groups on usenet.


PROPOSED CLASSIFICATION:

I believe usenet would be well served by establishing a rec.plants
hierarchy, and below I outline both current and future groups and
how they would fit into this proposed hierarchy, (not that current
existing groups are denoted with an asterisk ("*"):

rec.plants			Hierarchy, not a group.
rec.plants.misc			Miscellaneous discussion, not fitting elsewhere
rec.plants.orchids*		(=rec.gardens.orchids) Orchids
rec.plants.bonsai*		(=rec.arts.bonsai) Little trees (and in my case, kindling)
rec.plants.indoors		Houseplants. Expected RSN
rec.plants.aquatic		? (Instead of the proposed rec.aquaria.freshwater.plants)
rec.plants.gardens*		(=rec.gardens)
rec.plants.rhododendrons	Also expected RSN
rec.plants.roses*		(=rec.gardens.roses)
rec.plants.gesenerids		From mailing list
rec.plants.bromeliads		From mailing list
rec.plants.carniverous		From mailing list

Note that rec.gardens may not fit well under this hierarchy, as issues of
composting and design of gardens are not plant related topics per se. Perhaps
consideration should be given to renaming rec.gardens to rec.gardening,
or rec.plants.gardening.

I have resisted the urge to classify the above groups, although tempting
as "indoor" or "outdoor", because that implies a geographical bias which
is best avioded.


NOTE

This RFD is being issued in concordance with the guidelines set in the
"How to create a new usenet newsgroup" FAQ regularly posted to
news.announce.newgroups. Please refer to this article if you have any
questions about the newsgroup creation.

Unless the discussion indicated a need to resubmit a new RFD, the CFV will
be posted approximately three to four weeks after the posting of this RFD.

Discussion about this RFD will take place in news.groups only.

This RFD was (cross)-posted to the following groups:

news.announce.newgroups, news.groups, rec.gardens, rec.arts.bonsai, alt.bonsai
rec.gardens.orchids, rec.gardens.roses


From pwick@med.umich.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:15 EST 1995
Article: 56338 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!med.umich.edu!pwick
From: pwick@med.umich.edu (Peter F. Wick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,sci.med.pharmacy
Subject: Re: Poison oak/Procardia
Date: 28 Feb 1995 22:23:21 GMT
Organization: University of Michigan - DMSV
Lines: 35
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3j07op$n90@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
References: <mfrost.287.001E1704@primenet.com> <xe0a8wz.pattibelle@delphi.com> <1995Feb21.150511.39010@cobra.uni.edu> <D4DtK3.I7C@spdcc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: escher.dmsv.med.umich.edu
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:56338 sci.med.pharmacy:7019
Status: O
X-Status: 

 >The following text was extracted from a post in rec.gardens.  It seems
|> >a little "off" to me, if Procardia is what I think it is. 

|> >//snip//

|> >> My doctor told me that at the first sign of poison oak to take one
|> >> Procardia pill, poke it with a pin, then hold it under the tongue
|
snip

|> Procardia is nifedipine, a calcium channel blocker.  
snip

I think some of the rationale lies in the ability of nifedipine to block
a specific type of calcium channel.  The dihydropyridines, of which nifedipine-
nicardipine-nimodipine-nisoldipine-nitrendipine-isradipine and others are,
(grammar?) selectively block L-type calcium channels.  So far there are known
to be at least 5 types identified by gene cloning.  L-type channels are
strongly implicated in dominating the release of stored chemical messages
from neuroendocrine (adrenal chromaffin cells), endocrine (islet cells) and
some white cells (mast cells).  If you can block them and prevent calcium 
influx into any of those cells, you inhibit release due to a stimulus.

My dissertation is on the coupling of L-type calcium channels to secretion
in chromaffin cells, but I'm not an expert on mast cells.  I guess this
hypothesis is similar to how cromolyn sodium and that other one in Tilade
work to stave off asthma and allergic reactions.  I don't know if the 
reaction comes on strong once the nifedipine leaves but I would bet it
does because the skin still will have the oils in it for several hours 
after the nifedipine has been cleared.  Oil present -> stimulate those IgE
mediated reactions -> suffering.  Maybe someone knows how to get in touch
with Bastien Gomperts in the UK.  Don't know the university, Liverpool?
He studies exocytosis using mast cells as a model and might have better info.

Peter Wick


From Christy@rain.or Mon Mar  6 10:40:16 EST 1995
Article: 56461 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!usenet
From: Chris Baker <Christy@rain.or>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mexican Sage
Date: 28 Feb 1995 06:37:11 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3iugan$4m4@news.rain.org>
References: <3isnn5$obm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: port24.ventura.rain.org
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I have successfully grown Mexican sage from cuttings...I also love
my plant...Have you tried Cleveland Sage or Pineapple sage?  My
Pineapple Sage is now in full bloom.

Christy






ssieling@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Sarah A Sieling) wrote:
>
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried growing Mexican Sage from seed if so where did you get the 
> seed?  I have looked in several catalogues but have not found it available.  I
> bought one plant last year and really loved it.  It looks like it should be
> easy to grown from seed if I could find it.
> 
>  Sarah



From Christy@rain.or Mon Mar  6 10:40:18 EST 1995
Article: 56462 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!usenet
From: Chris Baker <Christy@rain.or>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Picking Basil
Date: 28 Feb 1995 06:42:26 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3iugki$4m4@news.rain.org>
References: <pjonke-2702951439080001@higstar11.soest.hawaii.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: port24.ventura.rain.org
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Patrick,

Once the plant is established you can cut 1/2
 and still have it flourish.  When you pick the flowers use them
 in your recipes as they have same flavor..I keep ziplock bag in my
freezer and when I need basil cut it frozen and add.  When basil is young
I only pick large bottom leaves to encourage growth.  After that I
Pinch tops off...good luck and enjoy.

Christy


pjonke@soest.hawaii.edu (Patrick Jonke) wrote:
>
> Aloha,
> 
> Does anyone know the proper technique for harvesting fresh basil? Should I
> pluck the leaves individually, or cut off a whole stem? 
> 
> How much can I take at one time and still maintain a healthy plant? 10%? 20%?
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that I should nip off the flowers?
> 
> Mahalo in advance...
> 
> -- 
>                       Patrick Jonke
>          University of Hawaii at Manoa
> Department of Marine Geology & Geophysics



From Christy@rain.or Mon Mar  6 10:40:19 EST 1995
Article: 56463 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!usenet
From: Chris Baker <Christy@rain.or>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Picking Basil
Date: 28 Feb 1995 06:42:29 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3iugkl$4s7@news.rain.org>
References: <pjonke-2702951439080001@higstar11.soest.hawaii.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: port24.ventura.rain.org
Status: O
X-Status: 

Patrick,

Once the plant is established you can cut 1/2
 and still have it flourish.  When you pick the flowers use them
 in your recipes as they have same flavor..I keep ziplock bag in my
freezer and when I need basil cut it frozen and add.  When basil is young
I only pick large bottom leaves to encourage growth.  After that I
Pinch tops off...good luck and enjoy.

Christy


pjonke@soest.hawaii.edu (Patrick Jonke) wrote:
>
> Aloha,
> 
> Does anyone know the proper technique for harvesting fresh basil? Should I
> pluck the leaves individually, or cut off a whole stem? 
> 
> How much can I take at one time and still maintain a healthy plant? 10%? 20%?
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that I should nip off the flowers?
> 
> Mahalo in advance...
> 
> -- 
>                       Patrick Jonke
>          University of Hawaii at Manoa
> Department of Marine Geology & Geophysics



From gml0@gte.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:21 EST 1995
Article: 56464 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!ceylon!glambert.gte.com!user
From: gml0@gte.com (Gary Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Plant Labels/ Markers
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 10:25:38 -0500
Organization: GTE Labs
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <gml0-270295102539@glambert.gte.com>
References: <3iq69u$l4h@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: glambert.gte.com
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In article <3iq69u$l4h@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, billsdone@aol.com
(BillsDone) wrote:

> Anyone have any advice on plant markers.  Which is the most durable? Cost
> effective? Do the carbon markers on galvanized metal work?  
> 
> Thanks in Tennessee

Fading is a problem with all of the metal markers we have tried,
even when a "permanent" marking pen is used. Many of the gardens
we visited used tags made on a hand held plastic label maker that
were mounted on a plain metal or plastic marker.


From adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:22 EST 1995
Article: 56465 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!vtaix.cc.vt.edu!adamf
From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Date: 24 Feb 1995 14:44:12 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <3ikrbs$blu@solaris.cc.vt.edu>
References: <7765192801601@apple.uu.ids.net> <LRFORTNEY-2202950758520001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu> <mobabbb.1144024884B@newsserver.utcc.utk.edu> <LRFORTNEY-2402950923490001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vtaix.cc.vt.edu
NNTP-Posting-User: adamf
Status: O
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In article <LRFORTNEY-2402950923490001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu>,
L. R. Fortney <LRFORTNEY@hep.phy.duke.edu> wrote:
>In article <mobabbb.1144024884B@newsserver.utcc.utk.edu>,
>mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu (Meredith Morris-Babb) wrote:

 copious "big picture" anal retentive proposed rec.gardens.*
 groups deleted.

>  I would certainly agree to rec.gardens.pests, but don't you think trees
>fits into landscape, at least to the point that having both would be
>confusing and encourage cross posting?
>  The other good suggestion was to add rec.gardens.tools.
>  I could also live happily with "edible" replacing vegetable and fruit. 
>It's true some flowers are edible, but it would save arguments as to
>whether a tomato (tomatoe?) is a vegetable or a fruit, and it would make
>fewer subgroups.

 Okay this is supposed to be funny...

 Maybe what we need to do for rec.gardens, is make a new group for
 ***each atom***. Yes that's right; each atom, for each molecule, for each
 element, for each compound... this way, nobody needs to read stuff they
 aren't interested in, and as new discoveries are made, we can make new
 groups up. I mean, this is all encompassing! Think of the LOGIC this
 holds. 

 Adam
-- 
______________________________________
Adam Finkelstein 
adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu 


From eabu2635@taurus.oac.uci.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:24 EST 1995
Article: 56466 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!taurus.oac.uci.edu!eabu2635
From: Anita Christine Stecker <eabu2635@taurus.oac.uci.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: ORCHARDS
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 22:42:46 -0800
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.950227224025.22569A-100000@taurus.oac.uci.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: taurus.oac.uci.edu
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My orchards continously have new leaves, but I can't seem to make them bloom.

							Please help! 



From heverlyj@ccnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:26 EST 1995
Article: 56467 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!ccnet.com!ccnet.com!not-for-mail
From: heverlyj@ccnet.com (Jerry Heverly)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Rotate Tomatoes?
Date: 27 Feb 1995 22:56:42 -0800
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3iuhfa$jml@ccnet3.ccnet.com>
References: <D4o6pq.1D8@cid.aes.doe.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccnet3
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
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Monique Ibey (ibeym@spock) wrote:
: Just trying to plan the layout/rotation schedule for this summer's veggie 
: garden.  I've read several books about companion planting and crop rotation.  
: Some say that tomatoes like to stay where they are.  Others suggest including 
: tomatoes in a yearly crop rotation.  Any advice from experienced tomato 
: growers out there would be appreciated.  I am in Zone 5b/6a (Southern Ontario) 
: according to my chart.

: Thanks in advance,

: Monique
	The main reason to rotate tomatoes is disease prevention.  
Several of the most virulent tomato pathogens are soil borne, i.e. the 
spores of the fungus travel through the soil and enter the plant through 
the roots.
	If you use disease resistant cultivars, often marked VFN on the 
label, you cut down on your chances of suffering one of these diseases, 
*but* the plant may be infected nonetheless.  The resistance 
characteristic prevents the plant from manifesting the disease but it can 
still be present.  You can innoculate the soil with the fungus without 
*this year* suffering from it.  The spores can remain in the soil and 
infect the crop in succeeding years.  You can also introduce diseases 
into the soil with other crops;  other solanaceous things like eggplant, 
peppers and potatoes; or other susceptible plants like strawberries.
	By rotating to another part of the garden you reduce your chances 
of suffering from these fungi.  Speaking from experience all it takes is 
one bad experience, one crop decimated by disease to get you on the 
rotation bandwagon.
Jerry Heverly, Instr. of hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA
-- 


Jerry Heverly, Oakland, CA


From mfrost@primenet.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:27 EST 1995
Article: 56468 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip081.lax.primenet.com!mfrost
From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: The poison in cucumber peel
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 19:56:03 PST
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 18
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <mfrost.302.00199372@primenet.com>
References: <deadly.cucumbers.myth@sunb.ocs.mq.edu.au> <3iihvr$ae0@nntp.interaccess.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip081.lax.primenet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]
Status: O
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>In article <deadly.cucumbers.myth@sunb.ocs.mq.edu.au> John Savage,
>johns@macadam.mpce.mq.edu.au writes:
>>Back when I was a young lad, mother used always to peel those green salad
>>cucumbers with a knife, then score the entire outside of the peeled fruit

>>lengthwise 8 or 9 times with a kitchen fork "to drain the poison".
>From: June Meyer <june4@interaccess.com>
>My grandmother and mother peeled cucumbers and scored them lengthwise to
>make them more digestible and pretty to look at. I never heard of poison
>draining out!

My neighbor's mother used to instruct us to cut off the ends of an unpeeled 
cucumber and rub each end with its cut-off piece until a froth appeared. The 
purpose of this was "to draw out the bitterness". I also saw this procedure in 
a jr hi home ec class. There was no reference to poisonous qualities.
Regards, Martha
mfrost@primenet.com


From pattibelle@delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:29 EST 1995
Article: 56469 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PATTIBELLE <pattibelle@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mexican Sage
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 02:12:36 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <ZCz6lIc.pattibelle@delphi.com>
References: <3isnn5$obm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: Sarah A Sieling <ssieling@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Status: O
X-Status: 

Sarah, why not divide the root?  I just did mine a couple of weeks ago
and they're now starting to sprout new leaves.  Spring at last???
 
Pat in Napa, CA


From Mathias.Koerber@swi.com.sg Mon Mar  6 10:40:30 EST 1995
Article: 56470 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ntuix.ntu.ac.sg!raffles.technet.sg!mathias
From: mathias@unicorn.swi.com.sg (Mathias Koerber)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Fleurop on the Net?
Date: 26 Feb 1995 14:16:21 GMT
Organization: Technet, Singapore
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3iq2fm$ri5@raffles.technet.sg>
Reply-To: Mathias.Koerber@swi.com.sg
NNTP-Posting-Host: unicorn.swi.com.sg
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
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Hi, 

I hope I'm posting this in the right place...

I am looking for a long-distance flower ordering shop (like the fleurop
chain) or any flower-shop in Hamburg (D) who have net-access (preferrably
WWW). If this is a FAQ (somehow I don't think so) I apologize. Please e-mail,
and if I get enough replies I will summarize...

cheers

--
Mathias Koerber                                      Tel: +65 / 778 00 66 x 29
SW International Systems Pte Ltd                          Fax: +65 / 777 94 01
14 Science Park Drive #04-01 The Maxwell    e-mail: Mathias.Koerber@swi.com.sg
S'pore 0511         <A HREF=http://www.swi.com.sg/~mathias/mathias.html>MK</A>
   I have a spelling checker; It came with mine PC; It plainly marks
for my revue; Mistakes I cannot sea
   I've run this poem threw it; I'm sure your please to no; Its letter
perfect in it's weigh; My checker tolled me sew
		-- from a .sig from jhurwit@netcom.com (Jeffrey Hurwit)



From clewis@bnr.ca Mon Mar  6 10:40:32 EST 1995
Article: 56471 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!clewis
From: clewis@bnr.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Trying to save split tree
Date: 28 Feb 1995 20:47:26 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research, Ottawa Canada
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3j024u$om8@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>
References: <D4KMns.49v@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> <1995Feb27.103930.39327@cobra.uni.edu> <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> <3ivqo4$k4s@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarh2ec.bnr.ca
Status: O
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In article <3ivqo4$k4s@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>,
Susan Sanders  <ssanders@umich.edu> wrote:
>In article <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> Chris Lewis,
>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca writes:
>>I'll use threaded rod with pieces of cedar 2x4 as the first layer of
>>"washer" (against the trunk), and large metal washers as the second
>layer,
>anything special about the threaded rod?  
>
>Personally, I would skip the wood and just use large fender washers, if
>necessary (depending on the length of the split) doing two rods, one
>above the other.  Assuming the repair is successful, and I would expect
>it to be (I've done this with good success though not on cedar), the tree
>will keep growing and eventually completely engulf the hardware.  I would
>think the 2X4, on the other hand, could interfere with the continued
>growth of the tree.
>
>>Is galvanized (zinc plated) okay?  Or should I find ordinary steel and
>let
>>it rust?  I want to make sure I don't poison the tree, but would prefer
>>not to bust the bank trying to buy stainless threaded rod ;-)
>
>In my experience, galvanized works fine.                        -Sue
>Sanders

Thanks.

Upon revision, I'm going to do one bolt straight thru the split, and
another 18-24" above the split.  The first to keep the split together,
and the second to control/reduce the leverage/flexing of the crotch.

I'll have to see what I can find in the way of washers.  I'd kinda
like something as much as 2" in diameter.


From piddipat@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:33 EST 1995
Article: 56472 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Community Gardens
Date: 28 Feb 1995 23:10:19 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3j0s3b$5il@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3iua9r$jv3@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
Status: O
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re jen mayer's question:
i know who the owner of the land in question is. he's an "alleged" drug
dealer who walked away from the two garage/dwellings that were on the
land, which fell into deplorable shape. it took three years of calling the
city every month to get the dwellings condemned and torn down. this "drug
dealer," i hear, has fallen upon hard times and doesn't care one bit about
the property. so ... i'm gonna get it one way or the other--in fact, i
talked to the gardening director of the dept. of human services today, and
she told me that she's going to work with me to grab the land (legally)
and turn it into a community garden!!!!!!! i'll keep you posted on what
happens. :D

--pat murray


From ceci@lysator.liu.se Mon Mar  6 10:40:36 EST 1995
Article: 56473 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!psgrain!fizban.solace.mh.se!news.ifm.liu.se!ceci
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Ceci Henningsson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Least liked plant
Date: 28 Feb 1995 17:13:02 GMT
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3ivliu$741@newsy.ifm.liu.se>
References: <3i561n$n3@news.ycc.yale.edu> <3iaaro$rjj@news.ycc.yale.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rudolf.lysator.liu.se
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mdimand@minerva.cis.yale.edu (Mary Ann Dimand) writes:
[...]
> I also dislike Bishop's Goutweed, and many/most succulents.
> (Doesn't the word "fleshy" give you the creeps?)

Yes it does. That and the phrase "for the family's flower arranger"
make me skip to the next entry in any seed catalogue. Do flower
arrangers actually like those pale green and brownish "flowers"?

Did you see the picture of the "bat plant" in the Thompson & Morgan
catalogue? I wouldn't grow it if I was paid for it!

Regards,
--Ceci
--
====ceci@lysator.liu.se====================================
"Gabriel before me, Raphael behind me, 
 Michael to my right, Uriel on my left side. 
 In this circle of fire." Kate Bush, Lily from _The_Red_Shoes_


From oaktree@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:37 EST 1995
Article: 56474 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!oaktree
From: oaktree@netcom.com (just an acorn)
Subject: Re: My first daffodil
Message-ID: <oaktreeD4pzB9.9BH@netcom.com>
Organization: No appetite for chaos
References: <1734FBFFDS86.TINAH@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu> <3im7d4$2gp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 17:01:57 GMT
Lines: 11
Sender: oaktree@netcom12.netcom.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Cacorion <cacorion@aol.com> wrote:
>WHere are you?  In Maryland, my daffs are only 5 " high.

I don't know where the first poster was, but in northern
California, my daffodils have been blooming for about 10
days.  My hyacinths are blooming, too.
-- 
Jennifer in California                       oaktree@netcom.com
   
Beggars' Blocks and Blind Man's Fancy, Boston Corners and Beacon Light,
Broken Stars and Buckeye Blossoms, Blooming on the Tree of Life 



From gmaroni@email.unc.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:38 EST 1995
Article: 56475 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!gmaroni
From: gmaroni@email.unc.edu (Gustavo Maroni)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Wanted:Japanese umbrella pine
Date: 2 Mar 1995 15:25:59 GMT
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3j4o27$o67@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>
References: <NEWTNews.27722.793957453.pp003056@interramp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: isisa.oit.unc.edu
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I would suppose the surest bet is the **great** conifer people: 

Iseli Nursery, 30590 S.E. Kelso Rd., Boring Oregon 97009

These things are finicky and need to be sited very well, so be sure you 
get lots of information before you spend what Iseli is 
likely to charge!

Donna Maroni
c/o gmaroni@email.unc.edu


jhmcclas@interramp.com wrote:

: My wife and I are landscaping the front yard of our house in suburban MD
: and are looking for a Japanese umbrella pine of reasonable size (5-6 feet
: at least) as they are quite slow-growing. We have tried a number of
: landscaping and garden supply companies, some with supposedly national
: contacts, but none have been able to come up with one of more than 4 feet.
: We understand this will not be cheap. Any suggestions? Thanks.

: John and Sherry 



From ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Mar  6 10:40:40 EST 1995
Article: 56476 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ab860
From: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin)
Subject: Re: to stake, or not to stake?
Message-ID: <D4IF3u.Cp7@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: ab860@freenet2.carleton.ca (David L. Martin)
Reply-To: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
References: <3ikhka$hhe@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <1995Feb24.012644.15159@cs.brown.edu>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 15:02:18 GMT
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X-Status: 


In a previous posting, Christine Owens (cowens@ix.netcom.com) writes:
> Personally, I cage.  Basically, because it is easier than staking.
>>
>>Last year we staked our tomato plants.  Towards the end of the summer, the 
>>sub-branches started getting harder and harder to stake - they would break
>>when I tried to tie them.  My neighbour (yeah, her grass is greener too, and
>>her sage does better) used cages, and while her plants were smaller (she 
>>went inorganic :-P ) they did seem to help a lot.
>>
>>What should I do this year?  Stakes are cheap (free), but it hurt to break 

Partly it depends upon the type ot plants - theoretically "bush-type"
don't need staking, but I do anyway.  I suspect part of the breakage
problem may be what you are using for ties.  I cut very long strips from
panty-hose and use that to tie - it's elastic so it is a kind of
shock-absorber - gentle on the plants.   You can use long ties for
branches or bunches of branches ( I "bundle' them as I'm tying).

To cut the strips, start at the top and cut a long spiral right down one leg.

Hope this helps.




From m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov Mon Mar  6 10:40:41 EST 1995
Article: 56477 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user
From: m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov (Martin Zimmerman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horse Manure-Wood Shavings-Good for Gardens?
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 12:25:18 -0600
Organization: Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis Research Center
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References: <3iv0f6INN60e@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <3iv3f8$njf@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
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In article <3iv3f8$njf@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen
Fletcher) wrote:

> It's a great soil conditioner - lightens and improves any soil - but 
> don't count on much fertilizer value.  Unless horse manure is artfully
> composted (and this is a lost art), much of the nitrogen is lost in the 
> first week.

Its still not insignificant as a fertilizer when used in soil amendment
amounts. I mulched some spring-planted fruit trees in August with 1" of
aged manure (yes, I know bad idea) that had stopped growing in July. They
all immediately started growing again. They didn't drop their leaves until
December (this is in Zone 5/6 mind you) and started putting out new leaves
before February.

I'm going to terrace a hard clay slope this summer and I'm already
stockpiling manure from a friend with a dozen horses. As Karen pointed
out, stable owners *love* people that want their manure.

I did think that the manure made a troublesome mulch. I put a weed-blocker
mat under the manure and the weeds actually grew in the manure itself,
with their roots eventually destroying the underlying mat.

-- 
Marty Zimmerman                           m.l.zimmerman@lerc.nasa.gov
Analex Corp - NASA Lewis Research Center
Cleveland, Ohio USA


From spector@netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:43 EST 1995
Article: 56478 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!spector
From: spector@netcom.com (DH)
Subject: Re: I need help caring for a ficus tree
Message-ID: <spectorD4IGI5.C1L@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <3ikpb1$a6j@catfish.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 15:32:29 GMT
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Sheila,

I tried to email you with some info. on your ficus tree, but my mail came 
back as undeliverable.  If you want the info, email me at:

spector@netcom.com

-- 
 \|/
  O<....spector@netcom.com
^(_)^   spector had a little bird, a 'tiel hen named Merlot,
_||__   and everywhere that spector went, the hen was sure to go!


From 76533.757@CompuServe.COM Mon Mar  6 10:40:44 EST 1995
Article: 56479 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Roz Garland <76533.757@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HOW LATE IN DALLAS?
Date: 1 Mar 1995 04:51:46 GMT
Organization: via CompuServe Information Service
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References: <950224021836157@southwest.org>
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jb---
I don't know if you are interested or not, but we have just 
started a group on our own here in the Dallas metroplex area for 
gardeners.  Started out with a couple  of us sharing "North 
Texas" experiences, and now we have the use of a List server to 
make "chatting" a little easier and less expensive---- if you are 
interested in joining us, please let me know!
Thanks,
Roz Garland


From wsabo@teal.csn.org Mon Mar  6 10:40:47 EST 1995
Article: 56480 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csnnews!teal.csn.org!wsabo
From: wsabo@teal.csn.org (William R. Sabo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Orchid Cloning
Date: 1 Mar 1995 04:43:36 GMT
Organization: Colorado Supernet
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Hello,

I was just wondering if anyone has any how-to book recommendations ion
cloning orchids.  I have way too much time on my hands and was just curious.

Excuse the line noise.

William R. Sabo Jr.



From wojcik@pmsrs4.pms.ford.com Mon Mar  6 10:40:48 EST 1995
Article: 56481 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!jobone!fiesta.srl.ford.com!eccdb1.pms.ford.com!pmsrs4.pms.ford.com!wojcik
From: wojcik@pmsrs4.pms.ford.com (wojcik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Soiless mixes for houseplants
Date: 28 Feb 1995 17:14:49 GMT
Organization: ECC at Ford Motor Company, Dearborn Michigan
Lines: 16
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NNTP-Posting-Host: pmsrs4.pms.ford.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Status: O
X-Status: 

martin j. chiaverini (MJC14@psuvm.psu.edu) wrote:
: Does anyone have some good soiless recipes using sphagnum peat, perlite,
: and vermiculite for houseplants?  Specifically, I'm interested in the proper
: proportions of the above ingredients for a general mix, a cactus mix, and
: an African violet mix.  Thanks in advace.  Marty

	One part coarse vermiculite, one part coarse perlite and one part
of milled sphagnum moss or Canadian peat moss; mixed together in a big
garbage bag; depending on your local water, you might want to add about a
cup per cubic yard of dolomite limestone to balance the pH. If your water
is normally rather alkaline, skip this last part.
	This mix is excellent for all of the above plants. If you have a
hard time finding the coarse grades of perlite/vermiculite, substitute
the medium grade; avoid the fine grade. It packs down too much.




From kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:49 EST 1995
Article: 56482 of rec.gardens
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From: kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Kris Benarcik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Scott Arboretum Schedule of Events
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 24 Feb 1995 16:08:28 GMT
Organization: Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College
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SPRING-SUMMER 1995
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS

THE SCOTT ARBORETUM 
OF SWARTHMORE COLLEGE
610-328-8025

The Scott Arboretum strives to offer a wide range of educational topics for
both the beginning and experienced gardener.  In this schedule, events
relating to perennials and their care are being highlighted; look for the
** in the margin.  We hope you'll join us for many of these events.  Unless
otherwise noted, these events are free and open to the public.

LECTURES AND SPECIAL EVENTS

Lotusland:  Madame Ganna Walska's Horticultural Extravaganza
Monday, April 10
7:30 p.m., Lang Performing Arts Center

Combining outstanding botanical collections with spectacular landscape
design, the late Polish diva Ganna Walska created a series of gardens on
her 37-acre Santa Barbara estate that evoke her sense of theater and love
of whimsy.  Join Steven Timbrook for this look at Lotusland's extraordinary
and artfully designed collection of cycads, palms, bromeliads, cacti,
succulents and other unusual plants.

Arbor Day Celebration
Saturday, April 29
9 a.m.-noon, Scott Offices

Plan to bring the whole family to this festival celebrating trees.  This
celebration will feature special tours and demonstrations, a variety of
children's activities and experts to answer your gardening questions. 
Additional information mailed to members; interested nonmembers should
check the registration form to receive the flyer.

The Tender Trap:  Gardening with Half-Hardy Perennials
Thursday, May 4
7:30 p.m., Lang Performing Arts Center

There are hundreds of ways to use tender perennials, a group of plants
displaying a wealth of flower, foliage and form.  Andrew Bunting will
tantalize novice and experienced gardeners alike with a synopsis of this
fascinating, yet under used group of plants and the exciting ways they can
extend your gardening palette.   

New Zealand:  Plants and Places
Thursday, May 18
7:30 p.m., Lang Performing Arts Center

Join Gordon Collier for a look at some of New Zealand's beautiful and
distinctive indigenous plants.  He will show the landscapes where these
plants occur naturally and show them used with some familiar exotics in a
variety of "down under" gardens.


Scott Associates' Spring Festival
Sunday, May 21
7:30 p.m., Lang Performing Arts Center

Join us for this special evening for the presentation of the 1995 Scott
Medal.  A reception and distribution of the spring plant dividend to
members will follow.  Members and guests will receive  invitations; please
call for more information.


Scott Associates' Garden Day
Sunday, June 18
1-5 p.m.
This year eight remarkable private gardens in the Swarthmore-Springfield
area will be featured.  Tickets, garden descriptions and directions will be
mailed to all Scott Associates in May.  Individual memberships will receive
one ticket; all other membership categories will receive three.  Additional
tickets may be purchased at the Scott Offices or by mail ($6 for adults and
$1 for children 12 years of age and under).  Please call for more
information.  


An Evening in the Arboretum 
Saturdays:  June 24, July 15 and August 12
5-8 p.m., Scott Amphitheater

This is the third year we are delighted to present this concert series,
sponsored by the Friends of Music and Dance and the Associates of the Scott
Arboretum.  These festive evenings begin with a leisurely stroll about the
Arboretum followed by time to picnic and an outdoor concert in our
magnificent amphitheater.   (These concerts will move to Lang Music
Building in the event of rain.)


A Peek at the '95 Plant Sale
Thursday, September 7
7:30 p.m., Lang Performing Arts Center Cinema

Get a sneak preview of the outstanding plants featured at the upcoming
Scott Associates' Plant Sale.  The Arboretum staff will discuss the
ornamental attributes, growing conditions and garden uses for this
outstanding group of plants.  


Scott Associates' Plant Sale
Friday, September 15, 3-7 p.m.
and Saturday, September 16, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.  
DuPont Playing Field, Swarthmore College 

Join us for our biennial Plant Sale, our biggest educational event which
also serves as a fund raiser for many of our educational programs.  This
year's sale will feature many hard-to-find and unusual trees, shrubs,
vines, perennials and houseplants.

GUIDED TOURS

Join us for these opportunities to explore the Scott Arboretum's wonderful
plant collections.  These tours are led by Arboretum staff and begin at the
Arboretum Offices.  The tours are free for members and $3 for nonmembers 
In case of inclement weather, the walk is canceled; to confirm
cancellations, please call the Arboretum Offices that morning for a
recorded message.

Early Spring at the Arboretum - Jeff Jabco
Saturday, March 25, 10 a.m.-noon 

The Structure and Design of 
the Scott Arboretum - Ethan Cramer
Saturday, April 22, 10 a.m.-noon

Highlights of the 1995 Plant Sale - Andrew Bunting
Sunday, May 28, 1-3 p.m.

The Blooms of Late Spring - Claire Sawyers
Saturday, June 10, 10 a.m.-noon

Additional Highlights of the 1995 Plant Sale - Kris Benarcik
Saturday, September 9, 10 a.m.-noon



SHORT COURSE

Three Seasons of Perennials
Wednesdays: March 15, 10-11 a.m.; May 17, July 19 and September 20, 10
a.m.-noon  
Chanticleer Foundation, Wayne, Pennsylvania


This course will give you an in-depth, three-season look at perennials. The
first session is a scintillating illustrated lecture introducing the
perennials we will cover.  The following three sessions are out-of-doors
for hands-on exposure; covering the specifics of identification,
propagation, maintenance and pest management.  Suggestions for planting
combinations will give you the confidence to successfully garden with
perennials.  Limited to 20 participants; directions and instructions mailed
upon registration.

Instructors:  Melissa Grubb and Chris Woods
Members:  $40			Nonmembers: $50 

WORKSHOPS

Trough Making
Tuesday, May 2, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., Scott Offices
(Rain Date: May 9)


Have you admired handsome, handmade troughs?  In this workshop, Joyce
Fingerut will help each participant  construct a 12 inch square hypertufa
trough from form to finish, to be taken home.  These troughs will cure in
time so you can fill them with rock garden plants featured at the upcoming
Plant Sale.  Trough aftercare and planting tips--including suggestions for
planting medium and a palette of plants to choose from--will also be
discussed.  Each participant should bring a pair of heavy rubber gloves. 
Please bring a bag lunch; we'll provide beverages and dessert.  Limited to
12 participants.
Members:	$45		Nonmembers:  $56


Water Gardening Basics
Saturday, May 13, 9:30 a.m.-noon, Scott Offices

Join us for this workshop where Tim Jennings will introduce you to the
basics of water gardening including site selection and construction
materials.  We'll discuss a variety of water plants, both hardy and
tropical, suitable for gardens in this area.  The workshop begins with a
slide lecture indoors followed by a propagation and potting up
demonstration out-of-doors and a look at the Arboretum's water garden. 
Limited to 20 participants.
Members:  $25 		Nonmembers:  $30

Containers for Connoisseurs
Friday, May 26, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Scott Offices

This workshop met with such enthusiasm last year that we've added to it. 
The lectures and demonstrations will begin with Richard Hartlage showing
you how to create stunning hanging baskets, followed by Dan Benarcik
showing you some of the tropical plants that do wonderfully in containers. 
During lunch, Kris Benarcik will demonstrate ways to spice-up ordinary
containers with faux and verdigris finishes, and  Andrew Bunting will then
show you some exciting ways to use containers in the garden.  Each
participant will select several plants and plant their own terra cotta
container to take home.  All workshop materials, including  container and 
lunch provided.   Limited to 25 participants.   
Members:  $55  			Nonmembers:  $68


TRIPS 

The Academy of Natural Sciences and Historic Bartram's Garden
Tuesday, May 23, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. 
Van Trip, Depart from Scott Offices 
Our first stop will be the Academy of Natural Sciences for a specially
arranged behind-the-scenes tour.  This tour, led by  Academy staff, will
feature a look at their herbarium, which includes over one half million
plants collected in Pennsylvania and New Jersey beginning in 1780, and
plants collected by Lewis and Clark and Thomas Jefferson.
We'll then travel to Historic Bartram's Garden.  After a catered lunch,
we'll have a guided tour of the house and garden.  Historic Bartram's
Garden, designated a National Historic Landmark in 1965, includes 44 acres
of the original Bartram farm, which was established over 250 years ago. 
John Bartram was America's first great botanist and he and his son William
are credited with introducing into cultivation more than 200 native plants.
 Many of the magnificent specimens in the garden are native plants
including a yellowwood said to have been collected in the 1780s.  
Members:  $53			Nonmembers:  $66


England's Herb Farm and David Culp's Home Garden
Wednesday, May 31, 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. 
Van Trip, Depart from Scott Offices

The day will begin with a guided tour of England's Herb Farm.  On a little
less than three acres, Yvonne England has created a garden overflowing with
herbs and other perennials.  The garden includes a pond, bog, vegetable
garden, meadow, terraces and many garden ornaments.  After the tour, you'll
be able to enjoy lunch in your favorite part of the garden.
	After lunch, we'll visit the garden of David Culp.  This garden shows the
owner's enthusiasm for plants--he's past President of the Hardy Plant
Society and currently works for Sunny Border, a wholesale perennial
grower--expect to see the newest cultivars as well as some old favorites.  
Please bring a bag lunch; we'll provide beverages and dessert.
Members:  $38			Nonmembers:  $48



Watnong Terrace and Frelinghuysen Arboretum  
Wednesday, August 23, 7:30 a.m.-7 p.m.
Bus Trip, Depart from DuPont Parking Lot

Our first stop will be Watnong Terrace, the private garden of Helen and
Frank Donn.  This two and one-half acre garden includes the former Watnong
Nursery and contains dazzling collections of dwarf conifers, perennials,
several rock gardens, heaths and heathers and a pond. 
We will then travel to Frelinghuysen Arboretum, where after a catered
lunch,  Richard Hartlage will give us a guided tour of this ever-changing
display garden which will include a look at their vegetable garden, myriad
containers and hanging baskets and an overview of their many programs.
Members:  $65		Nonmembers:  $80



INSTRUCTORS

Dan Benarcik received his degree in Plant and Soil Sciences from the
University of Delaware.  He is currently a horticulturist at the
Chanticleer Foundation in Wayne, Pennsylvania where he leads workshops on a
variety of subjects.

Kris Benarcik is Education Coordinator at the Scott Arboretum.

Andrew Bunting is Curator at the Scott Arboretum.  

Gordon Collier is the owner of Titoki Point Garden and Nursery in Taihape,
New Zealand.  He is the New Zealand Vice-President of the International
Dendrology Society and the author of several books including The New
Zealander's Garden, published in 1984.

Ethan Cramer is Assistant to the Director at the Scott Arboretum.  

Joyce Fingerut is Past President of the Delaware Valley Rock Garden
Society.  She frequently leads trough-making workshops; in 1991, her
exhibit at the Philadelphia Flower Show showed how to create troughs. 

Melissa Grubb is a graduate of the Professional Gardener Training Program
at Longwood Gardens.  She currently works at the Chanticleer Foundation in
Wayne, Pennsylvania where she is responsible for the Pond Garden and the
Asian Woods.

Richard Hartlage received his degree in Horticulture from the North
Carolina State University.  He is Superintendent of Horticulture for the
Morris County Parks Department in New Jersey.

Jeff Jabco is Assistant Director of Horticulture at the Scott Arboretum.

Tim Jennings is a graduate of the Professional Gardener Training Program at
Longwood Gardens.  He is a Senior Gardener at Longwood Gardens where his
duties include working in their aquatic gardens; he is a teacher and lab
instructor for Longwood's education programs.

Claire Sawyers is Director of the Scott Arboretum.

Steven Timbrook, Director of Ganna Walska Lotusland since 1987, is a
botanist with special interest in desert plants, bromeliads and cycads.

Chris Woods is Executive Director of the Chanticleer Foundation, a public
garden in Wayne, Pennsylvania.  His horticultural training includes
experience at The Royal Botanic Garden at Kew and he is author of Facts on
File Encyclopedia of Perennials.  


CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MARCH
  15	Three Seasons of Herbaceous Perennials
	10-11 a.m., Chanticleer
  25	Early Spring at the Arboretum 
	10 a.m.-noon, Guided Tour, Scott Offices
APRIL
  10	Lotusland
	7:30 p.m., Lecture, Lang Performing Arts Center Cinema
  22	The Structure and Design of the Scott Arboretum
	10 a.m.-noon, Guided Tour, Scott Offices
  29	Arbor Day Celebration
	9 a.m.-noon, Scott Offices  
MAY
   2	Trough Making 
	10 a.m.-2 p.m., Workshop, Scott Offices
   4	The Tender Trap:  Gardening with Half-Hardy Perennials
	7:30 p.m., Lecture, Lang Performing Arts Center Cinema
  13	Water Gardening Basics
	9:30 a.m.-noon, Workshop, Scott Offices
  17	Three Seasons of Herbaceous Perennials
	10 a.m.-noon, Chanticleer
  18	New Zealand:  Plants and Places
	7:30 p.m., Lecture, Lang Performing Arts Center Cinema
  21	Scott Associates' Spring Festival
	7:30 p.m., Lecture, Lang Performing Arts Center
  23	The Academy of Natural Sciences and Bartram's Garden
	9 a.m.-4:30 p.m., Van Trip, Depart from Scott Offices
  26 Containers for Connoisseurs
	10 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., Workshop, Scott Offices
  28	Highlights of the 1995 Plant Sale
	1-3 p.m., Guided Tour, Scott Offices
  31	England's Herb Farm and David Culp's Garden
	8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m., Van Trip, Depart from Scott Offices
JUNE
  10	The Blooms of Late Spring
	10 a.m.-noon, Guided Tour, Scott Offices
  18	Scott Associates' Garden Day
	1-5 p.m.
  24	An Evening in the Arboretum 
	5-8 p.m., Tour and Concert, Scott Amphitheater 
JULY
  15	An Evening in the Arboretum 
	5-8 p.m., Tour and Concert, Scott Amphitheater
  19	Three Seasons of Herbaceous Perennials
	10 a.m.-noon, Chanticleer
AUGUST 
  12 An Evening in the Arboretum 
	5-8 p.m., Tour and Concert, Scott Amphitheater
  23	Watnong Terrace and Frelinghuysen Arboretum
	7:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Bus Trip, Depart from DuPont Parking Lot
SEPTEMBER
   7	A Peek at the '95 Plant Sale
	7:30 p.m., Lecture, Lang Performing Arts Center Cinema 
   9	Highlights of the 1995 Plant Sale
	10 a.m.-noon, Guided Tour, Scott Offices
  15	Scott Associates' Plant Sale
  	3-7 p.m., DuPont Playing Field
  16	Scott Associates' Plant Sale
  	9 a.m.-3 p.m., DuPont Playing Field
  20	Three Seasons of Herbaceous Perennials
	10 a.m.-noon, Chanticleer

To register:  Return to the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College, 500
College Avenue, Swarthmore, PA 19081-1397.  Include this form with payment.
 Registration fees are fully refundable only if notification is received no
later than seven days prior to the event.  Please send separate checks for
membership and courses.  No telephone registrations will be accepted.

								Fee $
						Members		Nonmember		
MARCH
  15	Three Seasons of 
	Herbaceous 
	Perennials (also meets 
	May 17, July 19 and 
	Sept. 20) - Short Course $40______		$50______

  25	Early Spring 
	at the 
	Arboretum - Guided Tour	Free_____		$ 3______	

APRIL
  22	The Structure and 
	Design of the Scott 
	Arboretum - Guided Tour	Free______	$ 3______

  29	Arbor Day Celebration
	nonmembers check 
	to receive information				______
MAY
   2	Trough Making Workshop	$45______		$56______

  13 Water Gardening 
	Basics - Workshop		$25______		$30______

  23	The Academy of 
	Natural Sciences and 
	Historic Bartram's 
	Garden - Van Trip		$53______		$66______

  26	Containers for 
	Connoisseurs - Workshop	$55______		$68______

  28	Highlights of the 1995 
	Plant Sale - Guided Tour	Free_____		$ 3______

  31	England's Herb Farm and 
	David Culp's Garden - Van
	Trip					$38______		$48______
			
JUNE
  10	The Blooms of Late 
	Spring - Guided Tour	Free______	$ 3______

  24	An Evening in 
	the Arboretum - 
	Tour and Concert
	nonmembers check to 
	receive information					________
	(Also includes information for July 15 and August 12 	tours and concerts.)
				
AUGUST
  23	Watnong Terrace and 
	Frelinghuysen Arboretum 
	Bus Trip 				$65______		$80______

SEPTEMBER
   9	Highlights of the 1995 
	Plant Sale - Guided Tour	Free_____		$ 3______


The Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College is a garden of suggestion. 
Covering 300 acres of the Swarthmore College campus, the Arboretum Contains
over 3,000 different kinds of plants.  The mission of the Arboretum is to
grow and display the best hardy ornamental trees, shrubs and perennials for
home gardens in the Delaware Valley.  

The Scott Arboretum is open year-round, free of charge, from dawn to dusk. 
For more information call 610-328-8025.


The Scott Arboretum shall not be liable in any way for any damage, injury
or loss of life or property incurred by any person in connections with
these programs beyond funds for cancellation by said date.



Spring-Summer 1995
Schedule of Events
© 1995 The Scott Arboretum


From klier@cobra.uni.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:51 EST 1995
Article: 56483 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier
From: klier@cobra.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Beginner question: Clay or plastic pots for herbs?
Message-ID: <1995Feb24.095751.39205@cobra.uni.edu>
Date: 24 Feb 95 09:57:50 -0600
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In article <46.12665.445@bbs.fullcoll.edu>, chris_thornton@bbs.fullcoll.edu (Chris Thornton) writes:
> perhaps you can seal the inside of the pots so they don't use so much
> water.

I didn't find the beginning of this thread, but if you're having trouble
with plants in clay pots drying out, some of the choices are:

1) moving to plastic pots (plants in plastic don't grow as well for me,
    though)
2) shifting to a larger clay pot, even including putting several plants
    of the same species in one larger pot
3) jardenieres: putting the clay pot inside a glazed pot that's slightly
   larger: net result is the air between the glazed and unglazed pots
   is more humid, so water evaporates from the unglazed clay more slowly.
4) double potting: putting the unglazed clay pot on a pad of sphagnum
   or other moisture retentive material inside a larger clay pot; stuff
   the space between the walls with more sphagnum.   The sphagnum
   acts like a sponge, taking up water from overwatering, releasing
   it back when the inner pot dries.
5) increasing the soil water capacity by changing the potting mix; most
   commonly now by adding "water grabbers", polyacrylamide beads that
   swell in water.

Kay Klier  klier@cobra.uni.edu



From bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:52 EST 1995
Article: 56484 of rec.gardens
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From: bmoon@cello.gina.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lemons in Texas
Date: 24 Feb 1995 08:01:19 -0800
Organization: GINA and CORE+ Services of The California State University
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Jeff Ferris (jcferris@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: My wife loves lemons, and as a joke, we took some seeds from a lemon she 
: just ate and dumped them in a pot.  To our surprise, I now have a 24" 
: tall lemon tree (two actually) growing very well indoors.  The problem 
: is, I live in the Austin Texas area, and don't see Lemon Trees being 
: grown around here.  Can I put this tree in the yard?  It is 24" tall and 
: still a single stalk, should I top it to force it to branch?  If not 
: now, when?  Anyone with some experience in lemon trees, please post or 
: send Email directly.
	The HP book CITRUS: HOW TO SELECT, GROW AND ENJOY has a chapter 
on growin citrus in Texas. Austin is north of the band that they indicate 
as being capable of home garden citrus growing. Even in that area, they 
indicate that only hardy citrus (kumquates, calamondins, Satsuma 
mandarins, and trifoliate oranges) can be grown outside of the Rio Grande 
Valley.
	There are determined people here on the net who grow citrus in 
places like Maryland so if you want to grow your lemon as a potted plant 
that goes outside in the warm months, I'm sure they will be happy to 
advise you.
	Citrus genetics is rather strange. Some of the seeds in citrus 
may be true to the tree they came from. These are referred to as nucellar 
seed. Other seed resembles both parents. In a book by John McPhee 
ORANGES, he tells of scientists planting over 200 seeds from limes and 
getting only two limes out of the whole lot. Since fruiting can take 
about 10 years, you might put a lot of effort and find you don't really 
have a lemon. But then, you've already found you can use the leaves.
Bruce Moon
Rio Linda, CA


From eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:54 EST 1995
Article: 56485 of rec.gardens
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From: eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Organically removing slugs?
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 09:40:33 -0700
Organization: u of o
Lines: 42
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In article <3itp93$1ki@rosebud.sdsc.edu>, kamratha@sdsc.edu (Anke
Kamrath,,) wrote:

> I've got slugs in my square foot garden and herb garden.
> I'm concerned about using anything toxic to get rid
> of these creatures since I'd like the food to be healthy
> (and I have cats in the area I don't want to poison).
> 
> Any suggestions on getting rid of them organically?

beer traps - they require changing the bait periodically; depends on how
much water gets in or how many slugs.

clean up your garden - mulch and rotting plants provide shelter for slugs

ducks - esp. muscovy ducks love slugs

diatomaceous earth/egg shells - minimal success imho.

copper holds a minimal charge which slugs are (supposedly) loathe to cross
- it's expensive and i haven't tried it

snake 'barbed wire' - using door screens, run a strip (upright) around your
beds  and remove the top few horizontal strands - this is much more
effective than 
eggshells and diatom. earth, again, imho, though some slugs burrow

encourage snakes and moles

and lastly (ick) handpicking

all lessons learned in the rainy northwest. :)

-- 
albert einstein nailed space-time
but the wild thing had him stumped
al baby, two and two make five and a quarter
that's why people fall in love
            -- t. dolby

sonny hays-eberts
eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu


From joan@scs.unr.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:55 EST 1995
Article: 56486 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.nevada.edu!silver.scs.unr.edu!news.unr.edu!pogonip.scs.unr.edu!joan
From: joan@scs.unr.edu (Joan Rowe)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: When do dogwoods flower in Atlanta?
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:06:20 GMT
Organization: University of Nevada, Reno
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Hi,

I'd love to see the dogwoods in flower in Atlanta.  I'm trying to plan a 
trip in April but may not be able to get there until about the last week 
of the month.  Will I be too late?

Thanks,
Joan


From GENES@american.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:56 EST 1995
Article: 56487 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!american.edu!GENES
From: GENES@american.edu (C. Richard Wrathall)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: After daffodils - what to plant? Help!
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 12:55:09 EST
Organization: The American University
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In article <3ir2fq$lp6@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
BARRETTA@ix.netcom.com (Joe Barretta) writes:
 
>
>Does anyone have ideas of what will grow well in a daffodil bed after
>the daffodils bloom?  My problem is that I like to leave the daffodil
>leaves intact so they will fertilize next year's bloom. I am looking for
>ideas on what to plant for summer without disturbing the soil too much.
>I've tried cosmos with a little success. It's a pretty sunny spot, but
>the soil isn't great. I don't want to dig up the bulbs. Any suggestions?
 
I have had good success with perennial Chrysanthemums in a plot with at
least 50 daffodils. As the leaves of the daffodils start to die back,
the mums are starting to come up. The only thing that I do to this plot
is to pinch the mums to keep them low and bushy. I usually fertilize with
a high potassium fertilizer at the end of the daffodil flowering, and with
relatively high organic nitrogen fertilizer (compost, etc. in the very late
fall. This has given me a flowering bed in both spring and fall, and with
very little work.
                        Dick Wrathall


From KRH113@psuvm.psu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:40:58 EST 1995
Article: 56488 of rec.gardens
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Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 1995 10:33:39 EST
From: krh/micro <KRH113@psuvm.psu.edu>
Message-ID: <95055.103339KRH113@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pruning roses - when and how much?
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Hello, as someone said ( somewhere in this group ) 3 different people=3
different answers.  I also live in PA (DuBois) and love roses....  I
bought a house last year that had several rose bushes growing around the
yard.  It did not appear as though anyone had taken care of them for
years!  I started by trimming them in the late winter/ early spring.  I
cut down to the brown/green line.  Being careful to cut these stems at
an angle (aprox 45 degrees).  In late spring, I started placing coffee
grounds (used and not designer) in a circle aprox 3 inches from the base
of the bush.  I also had some shreded maple leaves that I placed around
the base ...  I fed the rose bush one time while blooming and once after
bloom using a generic form of miricale grow for roses.....  Now I am
waiting to see what happens this year.....-good luck!-kent
" Read, not to contradict and confute; nor to believe and take for
granted; nor to find talk and discourse; but to weigh and consider."
****Francis Bacon*****
krh(micro in irc land) krh113@psuvm.psu.edu


From tom@avatar.ftc.nrcs.usda.gov Mon Mar  6 10:40:59 EST 1995
Article: 56489 of rec.gardens
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From: tom@avatar.ftc.nrcs.usda.gov (Tom Rudnick)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: paper pots
Date: 28 Feb 1995 20:12:05 GMT
Organization: USDA/Natural Resources Conservation Service IRMD, Fort Collins
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <3j002l$o00@ftcnews.nrcs.usda.gov>
References: <1995Feb23.200220.1625@cs.brown.edu> <793587948snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>
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Gary Cooper (Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk) writes:
> In article <1995Feb23.200220.1625@cs.brown.edu>

OK, I lost the original posting, and am REALLY responding to |
>            kj@cs.brown.edu "Kopal Barnouin-Jha" writes: <--+

> > I saw this little wood gadget in a catalogue that was to be used to make 
> > paper pots out of newspaper, with recycling/ability to plant directly into 
> > ground being the + points.  On the down side, it seemed expensive, about 
> > $17.  
> > 
> > a)  Do paper pots made with this simple gadget have bases?
> > b)  If not, do you stack on an impermeable plastic tray so they can be moved
> >          around if needed?
> > c)  If anyone here's used paper pots (bought or made), I'd like to hear about 
> >          those as compared to, say, peat.
> > 

I bought a paper-pot maker last year from Johnny's Seeds. It makes little
pots about 2.25" in diameter and 2.5" high with folded bottoms. I found
that they worked very well for vegetables that didn't have large root
systems (like tomatoes). I used mine for all of my pepper crop and everything
but my tomatoes. The newspaper degrades quickly, but I placed all of mine
in a plastic flat, where I could water them by soaking them all at once.

The degraded paper holds together well enough as long as it is't moved
much. The tomatoes that I _did_ put in the paper pots quickly outgrew the 
small bundle of dirt, and weren't as vigorous as those in the larger peat pots.

Once in the garden, I never saw the pots again. I'm going to use them again
this year for my non-tomato transplants. I use the larger peat pots for
my tomato transplants.

-Tom
----------------/------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Rudnick     | trudnick@ftc.nrcs.usda.gov | When the ship runs out of ocean
Fort Collins,CO | They Might Be Giants - | and the vessel runs aground
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=| Land's where we know the boat is found.


From tom@avatar.ftc.nrcs.usda.gov Mon Mar  6 10:41:00 EST 1995
Article: 56490 of rec.gardens
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From: tom@avatar.ftc.nrcs.usda.gov (Tom Rudnick)
Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Slugs
Followup-To: misc.rural,rec.gardens
Date: 28 Feb 1995 20:23:48 GMT
Organization: USDA/Natural Resources Conservation Service IRMD, Fort Collins
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Walter Vose Jeffries (walter@flashmag.com) writes:
> I have found a method that works to control the slugs in our greenhouse
> (I go out at 2 am and snip them with sissors - it's a nice(?) break
> from programming. :) ) but I am curious... I have heard people
> use Diematrius (sp?) earth. I have sprinkled about two pounds

Diatomacious from those little animals called "diatoms" with glass
bodies.

> of it on our beds and walk ways over the past several months but
> it doesn't seem to have _any_ affect on the slugs at all. I bought
> it at Gardens Alive who claims it does wonders at killing slugs. So...
> What am I doing wrong with it that my local slugs don't seem to
> be affected by it? Any ideas? Does it work for you? Does it no?
> How do you use it?

You may need thicker bands of the stuff. If it is sprinkled too
lightly, the slugs may not be affected by it. If they have to crawl
over an inch barrier of it, the glass slivers will cut their cuticles
and they loose moisture and (hopefully) die.

I haven't tried it yet, but that's how I understand it. It is used
for control of lots of crawling insects, including roaches. Since
the effect is a mechanical one, rather than a chemical one, insects
cannot build up a tolerance to it.

-Tom
----------------/----------------------------------------------------
Tom Rudnick     | Compu$erve is like taking a Taxi         _/~\_      
Fort Collins,CO | on the Information Superhighway.  ......(o---o)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-


From rshiell@mcube.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:03 EST 1995
Article: 56491 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!olivea!hal.COM!nntp-sc.barrnet.net!news.fujitsu.com!amdahl.com!amd!netcomsv!mcube.com!rshiell
Subject: How much Basil for 37 Pestos????
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rshiell@mcube.com
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 21:20:07 EST
Message-ID: <7772-218855301@mcube.com>
Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall
Lines: 43
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Pesto is strong; a little goes a long way.  I find that two packed cups
of basil leaves makes enough pesto for a one-pound package of dry pasta
(however many servings that is when cooked).

Try combining pesto with sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese, roasted red
bell peppers, and kalamata olives (all of which you can get at Trader
Joe's). That's one of my favorite recipies.

Unfortunately, for the next few months I can't make it; my preganant
wife lost her taste for pesto. And we've got a whole shelf full of it
in the freezer... (sigh.)

Start your basil now.

Richard Shiell, ASLA        Bakersfield, CA        RShiell@mcube.com


IP>        Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right newsgroup to post in but
IP>since I like you guys (and gals) I think I'll ask you first.
IP>I'm starting basil seeds indoors now and I'm unsure of how much to
IP>plant.  I want to grow enough basil to make about 37 servings (I'm the
IP>Garden Manager for my student housing cooperative) of fresh pesto
IP>which I would like to serve at least a couple of times this year.  All
IP>the recipes I've seen call for about 2 cups of packed basil leaves for 2
IP>servings.  So how many plants ( or square feet) is this?  I love pesto as
IP>everyone else in my house does so it would be great to have fresh basil
IP>for our pesto :)

IP>oh BTW, I live in the San Francisco Bay Area-USDA zone 9; Sunset zone 17
IP>so is this the right time to be starting basil?

IP>thanks all input..
IP>paul
IP>pauloo@uclink.berkeley.edu
---
 þ SLMR 2.1a þ Old gardeners don't die, they just go to seed.

--
Mainframes, Minis & Micros     |     Desert Jewel BBS & Online Mall
5630 District Blvd.   #114     |     Telnet to 204.212.36.4
Bakersfield, CA      93313     |     FTP to 204.212.36.4
LandLine  ==  800-949-1959     |     WWW to http:\\www@204.212.36.4


From rshiell@mcube.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:04 EST 1995
Article: 56492 of rec.gardens
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Subject: Re: Horseradish
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rshiell@mcube.com
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 21:20:07 EST
Message-ID: <7772-218859702@mcube.com>
Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall
Lines: 52
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Remember how I keep saying that climate makes huge differences?  Here we
go again; this time the difference arises between Bakersfield, CA. and
England.

I should have specified that black plastic over the soil works best to
kill weeds in Summer, or any time there's hot sun.  Here in the sunbelt
it works fast and thoroughly (even on bermudagrass, many folks' least
favorite plant). The solar heat actually COOKS the soil a couple inches
deep on a hot day (think of very hot asphalt pavement under your bare
feet; same effect.) The soil should be moist when the plastic material
is set in place.

This technique is used on a commercial scale in Israel, where
many farms sterilize their soil with solar heat to remove anything from
tough weed seeds to nematodes.


IN>In article <7766232482702@mcube.com>, rshiell@mcube.com writes:
IN>|>
IN>|> IJ>We accidently roto-tilled our horseradish one year and now we have
IN>|> IJ>horseradish coming up everywhere.  Does anyone know a good way of
IN>|> IJ>eliminating it.  Digging hasn't worked because one little piece of roo
IN>|> IJ>grows into a new plant.
IN>|>
IN>|> You could offer `dig your own' horseradish to all those folks with
IN>|> gopher problems. [grin]  The varmints can't abide horseradish, and a
IN>|> yard full of it should keep them out completely.
IN>|>
IN>|> Alternatively,  you could cover the area with black 30-gal trash bags,
IN>|> fastened down with U-shaped wires.  Solar heat, and no sun, should kill
IN>|> off _everything_ that tries to grow there.  Takes a few weeks.

IN>No chance.  This would kill off the tops.  You then remove the
IN>covering, and the stuff regrows ....
IN>You CAN kill it by digging (or using the cover method), provided
IN>that you do it EVERY time new leaves appear for at least a year
IN>(and usually two).  The other technique is to put the area down
IN>to lawn - close mowing kills horseradish eventually (i.e. years,
IN>again).
IN>Nick Maclaren,
IN>Email:  nmm1@cam.ac.uk

Richard Shiell, ASLA        Bakersfield, CA        RShiell@mcube.com
---
 þ SLMR 2.1a þ Old gardeners don't die, they just go to seed.

--
Mainframes, Minis & Micros     |     Desert Jewel BBS & Online Mall
5630 District Blvd.   #114     |     Telnet to 204.212.36.4
Bakersfield, CA      93313     |     FTP to 204.212.36.4
LandLine  ==  800-949-1959     |     WWW to http:\\www@204.212.36.4


From blw@lanl.gov Mon Mar  6 10:41:06 EST 1995
Article: 56493 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.sandia.gov!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov!newshost.lanl.gov!weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov!user
From: blw@lanl.gov (Barbara W)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need a source for Calachortus
Date: 28 Feb 1995 17:15:18 GMT
Organization: AOT-FM, LANL
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <blw-2802951022310001@weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov>
References: <3ikspk$re8@news.ycc.yale.edu> <3iot7r$fmd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Status: O
X-Status: 

Alplains sells seeds for 2 (maybe more) Calochortus species, one native to
California, and one to the Rockies.

blw@lanl.gov


From peacock@notapc.enet.dec.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:08 EST 1995
Article: 56494 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!peavax.eng.pko.dec.com!notapc.enet.dec.com!peacock
From: peacock@notapc.enet.dec.com ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to care for Heather?
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:18:32 GMT
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re: Heather in Vancouver...

	< chuckle!! >

re: original question...

Well, this is not really a scientific answer, but from what I've seen, 
heather is probably fairly sturdy stuff.  I mean, if you look at photos
of the hillsides of Northern England, for example, they're absolutely covered
with the stuff.  I remember visiting England as a child, and that stuff
was hard to pull up too (well, hard for a 7 yr old, anyway).  Without knowing
any more than that, I'd speculate that its a low maintenance plant that can
take full sun, and you may even want to be a little careful where you put it, 
or you may find out that its invasive as well.

just my opinion,

- Tom


From egilding@aloha.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:09 EST 1995
Article: 56495 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.itsnet.com!nntp.et.byu.edu!news.kei.com!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!coconut-wireless!usenet
From: "E. Gilding" <egilding@aloha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for Wild Cucumber Seeds
Date: 1 Mar 1995 11:34:52 GMT
Organization: Flex Information Network HAWAII
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <3j1m4s$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
References: <1995Feb26.030000.9828@gov.nt.ca> <mfrost.300.0052DE5A@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup18.aloha.com
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mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) wrote:
>
> In article <1995Feb26.030000.9828@gov.nt.ca> garybl@gov.nt.ca (Gary Black) writes:
> >From: garybl@gov.nt.ca (Gary Black)
> >Subject: Looking for Wild Cucumber Seeds
> >Date: Sun, 26 Feb 1995 03:00:00 GMT
> 
> 
> >I am looking for somewhere to purchase wild cucumber seeds and would very
> >much appreciate it if anyone could help.
> 

sorry, uhh new at this internet stuff,

gary,

	cucumbers belong to the plant family of curcubitacae (80% sure on the spelling there)
Curcumis sativis (notice all of these names have CURCU, like CUrCUMBer) well anyways, a wild c
cucumber could be anything.

	Curcumis sativis - your everyday cucumber
	Curcumis melo - your honeydew, santaclauss and cantalope muskmelon
	Curcumis pepo - squash!

i dont know if i helped you or confused you but cucumbers, melon and squash
can breed with each other making indentification difficult, not to mention
the fact that these species have been domesticated for centuries and so
a wild cucumber may have or could be a manmade cultivar gone AWOL.

i suggest you check out a wonderful company called seeds of change
they seek out seeds of old "heirloom" or "antique" varieties from many moons back

	send a catalog request to:

	Seeds of Change
	P.O. BOX 15189
	Santa Fe, MN 87506-5189

ps, they have all sorts of other garden goodies, like ORANGE eggplant
PURPLE tomatillos and RAINBOW inca corn (ssweet corn that looks like indian ornamental corn)
a very ecologically minded company




From cowens@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:11 EST 1995
Article: 56496 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horse manure as fertilizer
Date: 1 Mar 1995 12:01:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3j1nn5$aui@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <1995Feb26.030000.9828@gov.nt.ca> <mfrost.300.0052DE5A@primenet.com> <3j1m4s$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-23.ix.netcom.com
Status: O
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I recall years ago when "Gardeners" used to almost fight over
hauling away from horse barns the manure and wood shavings mix for
their gardens.  Is this still viable?  Good for gardens?
I would think that "odor" could be a problem.

Any experiences or info out there in this regard???

Horse manure makes a wonderful fertilizer, as well as an
excellent addition to the compost pile.  So does used
horse bedding.  The odor is really not all that strong.
Since horses are herbivores, their fecal material does
not have the strong, gamey odor of carnivorous
animals.



From egilding@aloha.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:12 EST 1995
Article: 56497 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!coconut-wireless!usenet
From: "E. Gilding" <egilding@aloha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HOYAS! AND OTHER ASCLEPIADS!
Date: 1 Mar 1995 11:56:54 GMT
Organization: Flex Information Network HAWAII
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Message-ID: <3j1ne6$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup18.aloha.com
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These are my FAVORITE plants they are both bizzare and beautiful
Some smell like roadkill in summer when they bloom(Stapelia). Others
smell like to most heavenly scent one could imagine (Hoyaa).  Well
I wanted to know if anyone has ever succsessfully pollinated a Hoya
(other than this guy I know, who hybirdliszes them, ack, he does such
 a good job!).

Aslcepiads, short for *inhale* Asclepiadacae, have a loyal following
with its own international society. and a separate international
society for hoyas alone.

the reason why I ask is that Asclepiads (AS-SKLEEP-ee-adds) have an
incredibily complex flowwer structure, and ive been trying for years
to pollinate one to no avail.  my god, how pititful. they acompare if 
not exceed the compication of orchids.

check out the neet article in HORTICULTURE FEB 1995 for an article on hoyas



From cowens@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:13 EST 1995
Article: 56498 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: slugs
Date: 1 Mar 1995 12:02:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3j1non$avv@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <1995Feb26.030000.9828@gov.nt.ca> <mfrost.300.0052DE5A@primenet.com> <3j1m4s$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-23.ix.netcom.com
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Some slug deterrents - fireplace ashes.  Scatter them under your plants,
the slugs will not crawl over them because they will cut up their
undersides.  Also adds some potassium to the soil.  Also, diatomacious
earth (diatoms) does the same thing, cuts up the undersides.


Susan Ford
Norman, Oklahoma
USDA Zone 7a

Ashes are highly alkaline, and may hurt some acid-loving
plants by upsetting the soil pH.

Chris Owens



From cowens@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:15 EST 1995
Article: 56499 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Calendula
Date: 1 Mar 1995 12:03:18 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3j1nq6$b03@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <1995Feb26.030000.9828@gov.nt.ca> <mfrost.300.0052DE5A@primenet.com> <3j1m4s$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-23.ix.netcom.com
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Hi I am trying to grow some calendula seeds (pot marigold) .  Does anyone have
any tips/ suggestions?  Also, how long does it take for them to sprout?.  Can
they be grown in a west facing sunny windowsill or do they prefer outdoors?
Thanks

Calendula are remarkably forgiving and adaptable, as long
as they have enough sun.  I just throw the seed into the
mulch over the tulips every year, and they reward me with
a glorious summer of blooms.  It takes mine about two
weeks to sprout outdoors.

Chris Owens


From egilding@aloha.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:17 EST 1995
Article: 56500 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!coconut-wireless!usenet
From: "E. Gilding" <egilding@aloha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Black Caterpillar! Help!
Date: 1 Mar 1995 12:11:35 GMT
Organization: Flex Information Network HAWAII
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <3j1o9n$bi6@mango.aloha.com>
References: <3ivlje$o9e@venera.isi.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup18.aloha.com
Status: O
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Kathy wrote:
>
> Hi. My garden is overrun with black fuzzy caterpillars. They are eating my  
> sorrel and my black seeded simpson lettuce!  What is this creature? What  
> will it turn into? If butterfly, what type? I would like to know since it  
> is having such a good time at my expense!  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kathy

BT the bugger!

as to what it is, i dunno, but a sure fire and ecologically safe way to destroy them is with BT (Bactilis Thurgensis?)
well anyway, you gan buy it as a powder (Ortho Dipel (TM)(C)()
or a liquid (safer?).  

I purchased Dipel and mixed it with water to kill the ever present
nemesis, the monarch butterfly catepillar on my ccrown flower bush
,a giant bush/minitree milkweed.

Dipel (contains BT as active ingret, BT by the way is a bacteria.)
was sprayed and the catepillars stoppe feeding and just sat there
lijke they were meditating for a few days, then they turned black and fell off the bush
you should know that BT does not harm any other animal, insect or
otherwise except catepillars and butterflies if they drink infected nectar
BEES ARE >NOT< HARMED BY DRICKING INFECTED NECTAR

BT numbs the mouthparts and then travels down to the gut of the catepillar where it
multiplies, sometimes to the point of turning the catepillar into a 
little ballon filled with BT,

I ve seen on TV a stroy about people in south america who would have starved if it wasn't for BT
their main crop is casava, but it was being attacked by a catepillar
so someone introduced BT and now they dont have a problem, they recycle
the infected bloated catepillars by putting them into a blender and spraying
the infvected juice on the plants to kill more catepillars.

well, good luck




From ssanders@umich.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:18 EST 1995
Article: 56501 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet
From: Susan Sanders <ssanders@umich.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Trying to save split tree
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:41:08 GMT
Organization: The University of Michigan
Lines: 22
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ivqo4$k4s@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
References: <D4KMns.49v@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> <3it9ov$dvg@dsk92.itg.ti.com> <1995Feb27.103930.39327@cobra.uni.edu> <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249
X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2
X-XXDate: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 18:42:55 GMT
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> Chris Lewis,
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca writes:
>I'll use threaded rod with pieces of cedar 2x4 as the first layer of
>"washer" (against the trunk), and large metal washers as the second
layer,
anything special about the threaded rod?  

Personally, I would skip the wood and just use large fender washers, if
necessary (depending on the length of the split) doing two rods, one
above the other.  Assuming the repair is successful, and I would expect
it to be (I've done this with good success though not on cedar), the tree
will keep growing and eventually completely engulf the hardware.  I would
think the 2X4, on the other hand, could interfere with the continued
growth of the tree.

>Is galvanized (zinc plated) okay?  Or should I find ordinary steel and
let
>it rust?  I want to make sure I don't poison the tree, but would prefer
>not to bust the bank trying to buy stainless threaded rod ;-)

In my experience, galvanized works fine.                        -Sue
Sanders


From n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:20 EST 1995
Article: 56502 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!henson!henson.cc.wwu.edu!n6848640
From: FEENEY <n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu>
Subject: Re: Slug death recipe
In-Reply-To: <56@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> 
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.950228081158.14853B-100000@henson.cc.wwu.edu>
Sender: news@henson.cc.wwu.edu (USENET-WWU)
Organization: Western Washington University
References: <3ie3dr$oep@babylon.gain.com> <donna_menk.220.2F4DE3FA@radian.com><3il8g0$i9c@dsk92.itg.ti.com> <56@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> 
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 08:29:41 -0800
Lines: 27
Status: O
X-Status: 

Several years ago we received an excellent tip from a gardening friend in 
Vancouver, BC.  As we live in the Pacific Northwest and have extensive 
gardens, slugs are a major pest to contend with each Spring & Summer.  
While this is a pro-active approach (one requiring your active 
participation) it has many virtues:  it knocks the rascals into slug 
heaven in milli-seconds (I exaggerate only slightly), is safe in the food 
garden, effective on large and teeny tiny slugs, excellent for reaching 
into the way back of your garden beds or in knocking slugs off delicate 
plants, cheap and easy to use.  We fill a plastic spray bottle with 1/3 
non-foaming household ammonia and 2/3 water.  That's it.  We then take a 
morning wander through the garden, coffee/tea and spray bottle in hand, 
and can enjoy the pleasure of seeing what is happening in the garden as 
well as accomplish our hunting tasks (we can get over 300 in a morning), 
and early attention to this job yields the benefit of much smaller 
populations later in the season when there is so much to feast on.
Stephanie Feeney
"The Northwest Gardeners Resource Directory" 
n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu
PS  I have read and recommend "The Field Guide to the Slug", which is 
actually a very thorough and well-written book on everything you'd ever 
want to know about the beasts.  (Sasquatch Books, $5.95, makes a good 
gift!)  Know thine enemy (and learn respect for those that are not a 
threat to the garden so you do not kill them by mistake.)  The book 
discusses some of the myths about slugs--the most astonishing of which is 
that they are quite capable of gliding across razor blades without 
harm--which throws out the window our attempts to corral our precious 
plants within eggshell/hazelnut shell etc. barriers!


From helen@Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:22 EST 1995
Article: 56503 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!tusol.cs.trinity.edu!Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu!helen
From: helen@Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu (Helen Montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: REORGANIZATION>rec.gardens
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:35:43 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Engineering Science, Trinity University
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <3ivqdv$gvn@tusol.cs.trinity.edu>
References: <3hr7st$9ue@lfsserv1.fsc.ibm.com> <LRFORTNEY-2202950758520001@hepmc7.phy.duke.edu>  <3igc0q$bo5@lfsserv1.fsc.ibm.com> <3iravq$l0o@news1.delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xerxes.engr.trinity.edu
To: Glissons@Delphi.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Is this newsgroup about to get reorganized or is this just wishful thinking?
Frankly, it sounds great to me, sure would be more organized and easier to
get to preferred subject matter. At this point I'm only interested in trees
and edible gardens, it would be nice to be able to go straight to these subjects.

My two cents worth.....unsolicited, I realize, but....well......:).........H


From cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:24 EST 1995
Article: 56504 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!cherokee!NewsWatcher!user
From: cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com (Craig Brossman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Calendula growing
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 12:17:42 -0700
Organization: U S WEST Technologies
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <cbrossma-280295121743@130.13.28.233>
References: <3ivddb$n2v@news.tamu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.13.28.233
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <3ivddb$n2v@news.tamu.edu>, leslies@tam2000.tamu.edu (Leslie
Rena Sims) wrote:

> Hi I am trying to grow some calendula seeds (pot marigold) .  Does anyone have
> any tips/ suggestions?  Also, how long does it take for them to sprout?.  Can
> they be grown in a west facing sunny windowsill or do they prefer outdoors?  
> Thanks
> 
> Leslie
> leslies@tamu.edu

-- 
I grew calendula last season outside. No real advice to give other than it
was easy, flowers all season long, no special watering, took dry spells
well, very pretty and easy plant to grow, and this year I have more
calendula seeds than I will be able to plant.

 ... Craig


From cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:26 EST 1995
Article: 56505 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!cherokee!NewsWatcher!user
From: cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com (Craig Brossman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Slug death recipe
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 12:28:18 -0700
Organization: U S WEST Technologies
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <cbrossma-280295122818@130.13.28.233>
References: <3ie3dr$oep@babylon.gain.com> <donna_menk.220.2F4DE3FA@radian.com><3il8g0$i9c@dsk92.itg.ti.com> <56@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> <Pine.ULT.3.91.950228081158.14853B-100000@henson.cc.wwu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.13.28.233
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <Pine.ULT.3.91.950228081158.14853B-100000@henson.cc.wwu.edu>,
FEENEY <n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu> wrote:
> ... in knocking slugs off delicate 
> plants, cheap and easy to use.  We fill a plastic spray bottle with 1/3 
> non-foaming household ammonia and 2/3 water.  That's it.  
> Stephanie Feeney
--
Stephanie,
You promise me that this will not harm the plants which are hit with the
spray? I tried the salt trick last year with little concern where it
landed, and without realizing, killed much more than the slugs. The dill
and pickles never recovered from the cell damage I caused.

Thanks ... Craig


From epur01@email.mot.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:29 EST 1995
Article: 56506 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!epur01.comm.mot.com!user
From: epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns)
Subject: Re: Slugs
Organization: MOTOROLA 
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 13:19:17 -0500
Message-ID: <epur01-2802951319170001@epur01.comm.mot.com>
References: <CKwGRIUV.nfjvup@flashmag.flashmag.com>
Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (SCHBBS News Account)
Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.2.100.52
Lines: 20
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <CKwGRIUV.nfjvup@flashmag.flashmag.com>, walter@flashmag.com wrote:

> I have found a method that works to control the slugs in our greenhouse
> (I go out at 2 am and snip them with sissors - it's a nice(?) break
> from programming. :) ) but I am curious... I have heard people
> use Diematrius (sp?) earth. I have sprinkled about two pounds
> of it on our beds and walk ways over the past several months but
> it doesn't seem to have _any_ affect on the slugs at all.

Just lightly sprinkle table salt on the floor around the perimeter of the
planting area.  Ever see what happens to a slug that comes in contact with
salt?

-- 
Don Burns                         | Motorola E-Mail: epur01
Motorola Inc.                     |     Internet:epur01@email.mot.com
North American Radio Systems Divn |          Voice: 305-723-5518
Plantation, FL  U.S.A.            |            Fax: 305-723-4343
            
X.400: /c=us/admd=attmail/prmd=motorola/g=don/s=burns/ddt=id/ddv=epur01/


From kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:31 EST 1995
Article: 56507 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!NewsWatcher!user
From: kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Kris Benarcik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Yellowwood Tree - What is it?
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 28 Feb 1995 19:00:41 GMT
Organization: Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <kbenarc1-280295135831@130.58.39.53>
References: <jrwoodworth.374.000C448F@mmm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.58.39.53
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Status: O
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In article <jrwoodworth.374.000C448F@mmm.com>, jrwoodworth@mmm.com (John
Woodworth) wrote:

> Has anyone any experience with the yellowood tree? ...

John-

There is an article about yellowwood on page 30 of the new (April) Fine
Gardening magazine; also has a picture of the tree in bloom...

Kris Benarcik
The Scott Arboretum


From ssanders@umich.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:32 EST 1995
Article: 56508 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet
From: Susan Sanders <ssanders@umich.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Trying to save split tree
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:53:10 GMT
Organization: The University of Michigan
Lines: 9
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ivrem$kfl@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
References: <D4KMns.49v@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> <3it9ov$dvg@dsk92.itg.ti.com> <1995Feb27.103930.39327@cobra.uni.edu> <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249
X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2
X-XXDate: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 18:54:58 GMT
Status: O
X-Status: 

In article <D4p10z.Cuv@ferret.ocunix.on.ca> Chris Lewis,
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca writes:
>It'll probably be about 12-18" above the split, and be about 24" long.

Oops, I glossed over this sentence.  If you use *cable*, it goes above
the split but if you use *rod* that goes through at the level of the
split.  For that matter, if you can find one long enough to extend
through both trunks, you can just use carriage bolts; actually pull the
split edges together as you tighten the bolts.      -Sue Sanders


From helen@Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:33 EST 1995
Article: 56509 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!tusol.cs.trinity.edu!Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu!helen
From: helen@Xerxes.Engr.Trinity.Edu (Helen Montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: purple martins
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:49:02 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Engineering Science, Trinity University
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3ivr6u$gvn@tusol.cs.trinity.edu>
References: <3idqmb$q1i@tusol.cs.trinity.edu> <epur01-2602952248250001@fl08ara035.comm.mot.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xerxes.engr.trinity.edu
To: epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns)
Status: O
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geez, I didn't know the martins only catch their food on the fly!  Actually,
some of the big grasshoppers do "fly"........kinda'.  I'm going to try the
gourd method if I can find some to buy and the first birds to take residence
are welcome to the grasshoppers, though I really wanted to attract the martins.
Thanks for your advice.   :)   H


From mjenkins@edge.ercnet.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:35 EST 1995
Article: 56510 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.edge.net!usenet
From: Mike & BJ Jenkins <mjenkins@edge.ercnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Glow-in-the-dark stakes for Garden Path
Date: 1 Mar 1995 14:47:48 GMT
Organization: The Edge
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <3j21ek$jsk@excalibur.edge.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip218.ercnet.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

Someone told me they saw for sale in a garden catalog, some 12" -14"
garden stakes, that collected daylight and would glow in the dark for
quite a while at night.  Has anyone seen these, and if so, will you
please send me the source?  Please e-mail.  And thank you very much !


From revans@msbbs.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:36 EST 1995
Article: 56511 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news
From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Squirrels in the garden
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 12:07:50
Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS)
Lines: 11
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <19950228.7A74C08.B455@msbbs.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: msbbs.com
Status: O
X-Status: 

>The only effective way to prevent Squirrel theft in vegetable gardens o
>backyard orchards is to reduce the population to a level where there is
>enough natural food to go around. I use a HAVAHART trap baited with pea
>butter to catch the squirrels. You must release them at least 5 miles f
>your garden to prevent a quick return. I trap at least 20 per year. Not
>there may be laws preventing transport and release in your area.

I hate to say this, but wouldn't it be more humane to just kill the
squirrels?  Taking any animal out of its territory usually results in
death.  It has a hard time finding food or is killed by the animals that
"own" the territory it was released into.


From mpritche@leo.vsla.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:38 EST 1995
Article: 56512 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: mpritche@leo.vsla.edu (Marge Pritchett)
Subject: BEES IN MULCH
Message-ID: <1995Mar1.150147.15768@leo.vsla.edu>
Organization: Virginia State Library
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 15:01:47 GMT
Lines: 16
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During this past summer and now this spring I have noticed bees
building small hives in the leaf mulch in my gardens.  I try to
carefully move them to another part of the yard but they always
return.  In the 22 years I have lived here I have never had
this problem until now.  I also noticed them drilling holes
under the railing of my deck! These are the black and yellow
bumble bees.  Any ideas? 
I don't want to spray them as I really do appreciate what they
do for my garden, but I don't want to get stung one day while
poking around the mulch either. 
Thanks.
-- 
(: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (: (:
Marge C. Pritchett		  U.S. 3rd District Court of Appeals
mpritche@leo.vsla.edu  				  (804)771-2219 x226
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)


From d_swartz@gate.net Mon Mar  6 10:41:39 EST 1995
Article: 56513 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!tequesta.gate.net!dffl2-18.gate.net!user
From: d_swartz@gate.net (Debbie DeNeese)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil?
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 14:15:03 -1812
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <d_swartz-2802951415030001@dffl2-18.gate.net>
References: <65361-793132823@mindlink.bc.ca> <epur01-2202952324010001@fl08ara056.comm.mot.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dffl2-18.gate.net
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In article <epur01-2202952324010001@fl08ara056.comm.mot.com>,
epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns) wrote:

  > Epsom salt is also known as magnesium sulfate.  Here in south Florida we
  > have many palms that demand magnesium in their diets lest their fronds
  > will begin to turn yellow.  It can be dissolved in water with a drop or
  > two of dishwash detergent as a wetting agent and sprayed on the fronds, or
  > the epsom salts can be applied to the soil. The latter is a much slower
  > means to get the nutrient to the plant.  On the other hand not all palms
  > can absorb nutrients through their fronds.

Hi Don...got a question for you...how 'bout my Malayan Golden hybrid,
which has a gold cast to the fronds and orange coconuts?  I feed it
regularly with palm food, but darned if I can tell if the fronds are
yellow to the extent of the variety or as a sign of distress. It's a
vigorous growing and fruiting tree, but always the worrier I want to be
sure it's getting everything it needs...

BTW, what is the ratio of epsom salt to water for the foliar feeding?

I sure hope the owners of many of the Canary Isle Date Palms in this So.
Fla. area are reading this, as most of them look like they could use a
good shot of micro's esp. magnesium.

Thanks in advance for your help...

=http://inca.gate.net:80/~d_swartz/neurodisc/html/neurodisc.html=
 Debbie DeNeese                     Email:  d_swartz@gate.net
 Neurodisc Records, Inc.            (finger for pgp public key)             
 450 N. Park Road  Suite 700             (305) 963-0555 [voice]
 Hollywood, FL   33021                   (305) 964-1117 [fax]
-= http://dswartz.dffl.gate.net/neurodisc/html/neurodisc.html =-


From DRPC2@Delphi.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:41 EST 1995
Article: 56514 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: DRPC2@Delphi.com (Jason Gerbino)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bamboo in Shade (SE)
Date: 28 Feb 1995 08:26:11 GMT
Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3iumn3$96u@news1.delphi.com>
References: <Pine.3.89.9501310926.B19620-0100000@sol1.solinet.net> <3hocme$48b@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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X-Mailer: Delphi Internet Jet SST v3.002B (Beta)
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On 02-26-95, stephenk9@aol.com adduced to Unknown...

>Do you know where I can purchase Bamboo which will grow in the Northeast?

        After seeing an address for a local Bamboo supplier in the
Northeast, I stopped by his greenhouse. I was *impressed*. This man knows
his bamboo, and the prices are consistent with his quality and stock.

        New England Bamboo Company
        P.O. Box 358
        Rockport, MA 01966
        508-546-3581

        As soon as the ground here unfreezes, I'm going to buy some of his
bamboo; he has a number of varieties which are rated cold-hardy to -25
degrees F.

Jason
     Delphi Internet Jet Technical Support (ver. 3.002B)
     Dr. PC         (DRPC, DRPC2, BOSK1, BOSK2; all @delphi.com)


From tonyp@convex.com Mon Mar  6 10:41:42 EST 1995
Article: 56515 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!convex!tonyp
From: tonyp@convex.com (tony j. podrasky)
Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Slugs
Date: 1 Mar 1995 16:53:29 GMT
Organization: Coyotes R Us - ask me about my Coyotes
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3j28q9$mkp@convex.convex.com>
References: <CKwGRIUV.nfjvup@flashmag.flashmag.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikey.convex.com
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.rural:15539 rec.gardens:56515
Status: O
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How 'bout a nice duckie or chickie?

Environmentally friendly, fun to watch, and good eggs, too. 

This is, after all, misc.rural.

	:-) 
--
    Tony J. Podrasky      - When I die, I'd like to go peacefully.
     San Diego , Ca            In my sleep.   Like my grandfather.
    tonyp@convex.com        Not screaming. 
QSL? QRU? QRZ? QLZ? QFA?           Like the passengers in his car.


From mhg3@cornell.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:44 EST 1995
Article: 56516 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!eff!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user
From: mhg3@cornell.edu (MiKe Griggs)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: BEES IN MULCH
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 12:00:37 -0500
Organization: USDA-ARS-PPRU
Lines: 24
Sender: mhg3@cornell.edu (Verified)
Message-ID: <mhg3-0103951200370001@128.253.66.35>
References: <1995Mar1.150147.15768@leo.vsla.edu>
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In article <1995Mar1.150147.15768@leo.vsla.edu>, mpritche@leo.vsla.edu
(Marge Pritchett) wrote:
It sounds like you have attracted Carpenter Bees.  They look very similar
to bumble bees.  They can be very destructive because of there habit of
cutting galleries in unfinished wood.  To stop them from mining your
railing you should fill the existing holes and then stain, paint or
varnish the surfaces.  This will repulse them (if not divert them to
another suitable surface).  They can be real troublesome.  Hope this
helps  Mike

PS they are fun to watch as they provide there galleries with food for brood.



> During this past summer and now this spring I have noticed bees
> building small hives in the leaf mulch in my gardens.  I try to
> carefully move them to another part of the yard but they always
> return.  In the 22 years I have lived here I have never had
> this problem until now.  I also noticed them drilling holes
> under the railing of my deck! These are the black and yellow
> bumble bees.  Any ideas? 
> I don't want to spray them as I really do appreciate what they
> do for my garden, but I don't want to get stung one day while
> poking around the mulch either.


From fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:46 EST 1995
Article: 56517 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!alpha1.csd.uwm.edu!fruhbaur
From: fruhbaur@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu (Jennifer Fruhbauer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: False Aralia propagation
Date: 1 Mar 1995 17:09:07 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.169.1
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my Dizygotheca elegantissima was struck by a bad case of scale that i have
only recently been able to control.  It is several "trees" in a large
pot, and due to the infection, a lot of the little tree-lets died away,
and now it looks quite straggley with leaves only near the tops of the
branches.  I would like to try to propogate it so that it could look more
full and bushy rather than.  I found a source that says it can possibly be
propagated with stem cuttings, however, there arent enough leaves (i think)
or leaf clusters to yield a large plant or a number of plants...any
suggestions on this?

jennifer


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:48 EST 1995
Article: 56518 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Tomatoes
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:07:39 -0800
Organization: Cal State Long Beach
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                                    TOMATOES
                             Lycopersicon esculentum

      Tomatoes, tree tomatoes (also call tamarillos), tomatillos and husk
tomatoes (also called ground cherries) are all in the Solanaceae family.  

      The tomatillo and related husk tomatoes belong to a different taxonomic
genus (Physalis ixocarpa) and differ from tomatoes in that their fruit is
encased in a thin husk which is removed when the fruit is used.  Tomatillos
produce large branched plants.  Tomatillos are picked when the fruit has
reached full size and is still green.  The fruit is often mixed with hot
peppers and other ingredients to make green salsa.  Varieties of Tomatillo
are:  Tomatillo Green (used in "salsa"); also Tomatillo Purple (purple fruit);
Rendidor (commonly used in Mexico).

      The husk tomato or ground cherry fruit is much smaller than the toma-
tillo, is very sweet and used mainly for jam and preserves after the fruit has
ripened and turned yellow.  Varieties of husk tomato are:  Husk Tomato Goldie, 
Husk Tomato Strawberry.

      The tree tomato belongs to still another genus, Cyphomandra betacea, and
is a tropical plant not suited for out-door production in the Pacific North-
west.  Its fruit, promoted by New Zealand, is marketed in the U.S.A. under the
trade name Tamarillo.  The fruit resembles a small eggplant more than a
tomato, may be red or yellow, is bland or semi-sweet.  Tree tomato plants are
a small perennial bush or shrub 6 to 10 feet tall, frost sensitive, and bear
after the second year.

TOMATO VARIETIES

      Tomato varieties mature over a wide range,  commonly from 75 days for
early cherry types to 85 days for early full size fruit types, 100 days for
medium, and 110 days for later, full season varieties from direct seeded
plantings.  Transplanted plantings would be about 25 days less.

      In the arid, irrigated areas east of the Cascades tomato production may
be severely limited by curly top virus.  Commercial production is limited to
the use of varieties with resistance.  Resistant varieties have been developed
and released by Dr. Mark Martin through the A.R.S., U.S.D.A. curly top
breeding program at the Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center, 
Prosser WA.  These varieties are all red-fruited:  Columbian, Rowpac, Roza,
Saladmaster, released in the 1960s for fresh market, and a "CVF" series
released in the 1980s for processing and market.  Limited quantities of seed
and descriptions of these varieties is available from: 

      Dr. Erik Sorensen,  WSU Cooperative Extension, Courthouse, 
      Pasco WA 99301, phone:  509/545-3511  

      Dr. Dennis Johnson, WSU, Rt. 2, Box 2953-A, 
      Prosser WA 99350-9687, phone 509/786-2226

      Mr. Gary Pelter, WSU Cooperative Extension, Courthouse,
      Ephrata, WA 9882, phone 509/754-2011 ext.412

      Standard tomato varieties, red:

      Bush types: Early to mid season - Santiam, Oregon Spring, Oregon Star,
Oregon Pride (all seedless, with the latter two being large-fruited, resem-
bling paste tomatoes), Springset, New Yorker, Fireball, Earlirouge, Earli-
bright, Coldset, Jetfire, Willamette, Pilgrim (early with multiple disease
resistance). 

      Bush types: Mid Season to Late - Pik Red, Celebrity, Pik Rite, Castlehy
101, Carnival, All Star, Setmore, Supersonic, Royal Flush,  Monte Carlo,
Better Boy, Carmen, Medford, Milagro, Sunny, Summerset.  Research in the
Hermiston area indicates that Baja, Keno, Oregon Spring and Valerie performed
well.  

      For trial:  Spectrum 882 (solid, multi-purpose, medium to large oval
fruit); Merced (tolerant to gray wall), Solar Set (reported high temperature
tolerance but susceptible to gray wall), Colonial (jointless stem, green
shoulder, large); Sunrise (VFF,Alt,TMV); Daybreak (VFF,Asc,St); Big Beef (All
America, medium-early beefsteak, VFF,Alt,St,N,TMV).

      Staking:  Early Girl, Fantastic, Keno.

      Cherry type, red,indeterminate: Sweet l00, Large German Cherry.
      Cherry type, red, determinate: Small Fry, Presto, Sweetie, Cerry Grande.

      Processing (paste) tomatoes: Bellstar, Chico III, Murrieta, Reliant,
Nova, RomaVF, Hybrid 882, La Rossa, Milano, Heinz 2653, Vega (VFF).

      Yellow:  Yellow, large fruited types: Orange Queen, Jubilee, Lemon Boy,
Golden Boy.
      Yellow cherry type, determinate: Gold Nugget.
      Yellow cherry type, indeterminate: Yellow Plum. 

      Yellow and red striped:  Tigerella, Tigerette.

      Novelty: White - Great White (beefsteak type), White Beauty.  Pink -
Pink Girl, Ponderosa Pink (beefsteak type), Mac Pink.  Pink Grapefruit (a
yellow-skin fruit with pink flesh).  Yellow and red stuffing:  Yellow Stuffer,
a pepper-like tomato, hollow, for stuffing.  Liberty Bell, a red pepper-like,
hollow fruit used for stuffing.

      Greenhouse:  See separate file on greenhouse tomato production.

SEED COMPANIES

Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
R.S. de Ruiter Seeds Inc.  3001 Bethel Rd. Suite 207, POB 20228, Columbus, OH
      43220  ph: 614/459 1498
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nichol's Garden Nursery, 1190 North Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321
Nunhems Seeds Corp. POB 18, Lewisville, ID 83431 ph: 208/754-8666
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Rogers NK. POB 4727, Boise ID 83711  ph: 208/322-7272
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240  ph: 416/688-4300
Thompson and Morgan. POB 1308 Jackson, NJ 08527  ph: 201/363-2225
Vilmorin Inc.  6104 Yorkshire Ter.  Bethesda MD 20814  ph: 301/564-6246
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 

SEED AND SEED TREATMENT

      Tomato seed numbers approximately 11,500 per ounce.  Most of the new
hybrids are sold by seed number.  Use only treated seed from a reliable seed
source.  Some seed companies now can furnish tomato seed that has been
"vigorized" or "conditioned" to allow germination under adverse (cool)
temperature conditions.

      Research in Indiana has demonstrated a benefit from pop-up fertilizers. 
In direct seeded plantings, spray directly on the seed a solution of 2-6-0
(made up of 1 part 10-34-0 : 4 part water) at 1 pint per 100 lineal feet of
row (use 1/2 this rate on sandy soils). 

TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION

      Use l or more oz. of seed per acre, depending on the variety and
required plant population.  Sow them in the greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks before
field transplanting.  Seedlings are transplanted to other flats when the first
true leaf has formed.  Veneer bands or jiffy pots may be used to advantage. 
Space between the plants should be 2 to 2 l/2 in.  Provide adequate ventila-
tion during the heat of the day, particularly after watering, which should be
completed before l p.m.  Water plants before signs of wilting appear.

      Tomato is a warm-temperature vegetable and requires a long growing
season.  Transplants should be kept close to the following temperatures:  64
to 70 F during the day, 55 to 61 F at night until the seedlings are thinned
out.

      When the first true leaf has formed, early flowering can be increased by
a one-week cold treatment at 54 F.  Caution:  Do not subject transplants with
4-5 true leaves to cold temperatures (around 50 F. nights and 60-65 F. days)
for more than a week since this will increase catfaced fruit.

TRANSPLANTING

      Condition transplants for 1-2 days before transplanting to the field by
slightly reducing the moisture and maintaining approximate outdoor tempera-
tures. Do not over-harden (see note on catfacing above).  Thoroughly water
plants l2 to l4 hours before transplanting to the field.  Plants should be dug
or cut loose from the soil when being transplanted; ensure the roots are not
exposed to sun or drying wind.

      Apply a starter fertilizer solution to the transplants when transplan-
ting to the field.  Select starter fertilizers that have the highest level of
phosphorus available, such as 10-52-17, 11-48-0, 11-55-0 dry fertilizers or
10-34-0 liquid fertilizer.  Make up a stock solution of 3 lbs of the dry, such
as 10-52-17, or 2 pints of liquid 10-34-0 per 50 gallons of water.  Use 1/2
pint of of this stock solution per plant, applying the solution directly to
the plant roots when setting in the field. 
TEMPERATURE

      Recent research indicates that a temperature of  68-78 F. is ideal for
optimal growth.

SPACING

      Use rows 4-5 ft. apart and space transplants 12 to 48 inches apart in
the row, depending on variety.

      Direct seeding should be done with early varieties only.  Drop 1-3 seeds
per hill and space 9-12 in. apart in rows spaced 48-60 inches.

      Tomatillos are usually grown from transplants planted in rows 5 feet
apart with a 2.5 foot spacing in the row.

WINDBREAKS

      Use windbreaks as necessary especially in eastern Oregon.  Grain wind-
breaks have been found effective when grain rows are used for each tomato row. 
Winter wheat varieties, rye, or oats can be used.  Spring barley may be used
for February plantings.  Seed grain thickly, 2-3 seeds per inch.  This requi-
res about 10 lbs. of barley, 9 lbs. of wheat, or 8 lbs. of rye to seed grain
rows 12 feet apart.  Tomatoes and windbreaks should be cultivated after they
are well established.

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  As a
general guideline before transplanting, broadcast and disc in the following:

      Nitrogen: 75-100 (N) lb./acre 
      Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb./acre 
      Potash: 100-150 (K2 O) lb./acre 
      Sulfur: 25-30 (S) lb./acre

      Side dress with 25-50 lb. of nitrogen per acre when first fruits appear. 

      Where mulching and trickle irrigation are practiced, additional nitrogen
can be fed through the trickle irrigation system at 15 lb/acre when the first
fruit begins to set and an additional 15 lb/acre four weeks after.  To prevent
clogging or plugging from occurring use soluble forms of nitrogen (Urea  or
Ammonium nitrate), and chlorinate the system once a month with a l0 to 50 ppm.
chlorine solution.  Chlorinate more frequently if the flow rate decreases. 

      Avoid excessive nitrogen applications which can cause excessive vine
growth and delay maturity.

PLASTIC GROUND MULCHES AND ROW COVERS

      The use of black plastic ground mulch is recommended, especially in
Western Oregon.  Plastic mulch conserves moisture, increases soil temperatures
and protects fruit from ground rot, enhances earliness and increases yields.

      Spunbonded polyester or propylene, and perforated polyethylene row
covers may be used for 4 to 8 weeks immediately after transplanting or direct
seeding.  Covers should be removed when plants begin to flower or if tempera-
tures become excessive under the covers.  Do not allow temperatures to exceed
90 F for more than two or three consecutive days.  Row covers increase heat
unit accumulation by 2 to 3 times over ambient.  Two to four degrees of frost
protection may also be obtained at night.  Soil temperatures and root growth
are also increased under row covers as are early yields, and in some cases
total yields.  

IRRIGATION

      Apply water uniformly to reduce incidence of blossom end rot.  Irrigate
carefully after fruit ripens to reduce fruit decay and cracking.  A total of
12-15 inches may be needed in western Oregon.  Approximate summer irrigation
needs for the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in
June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.

CHEMICAL FRUIT RIPENING

      Ethrel may be used for uniform ripening for once-over harvest and to
enhance ripening in late varieties, or during late seasons, or when ripening
is delayed.  The proper use of Ethrel can advance harvest about 5-7 days. 
Apply when fruit is at the mature green stage (when fruit locules contain
jelly). Ethrel is effective only on mature-green fruit.  The key to good
results is good coverage.  Apply 3.0-4.0 pints Ethrel (2 lbs/gal formulation)
in 40-80 gal. water/acre.  Use higher rates when day temperatures are less
than 64 F and tomato growth is dense. Ideal temperature range is 75-85 F. Do
not exceed 6.5 pints total, or excess residues may result.  CONSULT PRODUCT
LABEL FOR FULL INSTRUCTIONS AND CAUTIONS.  If tomatoes are water stressed,
defoliation may occur.   Fruit do not appreciably increase in size after
Ethrel treatment.

      Harvest fruit at proper maturity, generally l4 to 2l days after treat-
ment.  Observe treated fruit frequently for condition of crop ripening.  Cool
temperatures can slow Ethrel absorption and color development and extend
period between treatment and harvest.   

NON-PATHOGENIC FRUIT DISORDERS

      Blossom-End Rot:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  Caused by calcium
imbalance or deficiency during critical stage of fruit differentiation and
expansion, usually induced by eneven watering or water stress.

      Gray-Wall:  This disorder appears as gray or brown blotchy areas in the
fruit wall tissue, beginning when the fruit is green.  It can occur on more
than half of the fruit of a particular field.  Cross-sections of fruit show
blackened tissue. This causes the external fruit color to look somewhat gray. 
When the fruit ripens, the area remains firm and turns from green to yellow,
rather than red.  Fruit thus ripens unevenly.  The affected area appears woody
when cut.  White wall tissue has been considered to be an early stage of gray
wall, but may also be related to other disorders (see "internal white tissue"
section below).  A definite cause for gray wall has not been defined but a
number of factors play a role in predisposing fruit to gray wall, these are
listed in their considered lessening degree of importance:

      1.  Low light or prolonged cloudy periods.
      2.  Excess nitrogen causing excessive plant vigor.
      3.  High soil moisture from excess rain or irrigation.
      4.  Potassium deficiency.
      5.  Soil compaction.
      6.  Temperature fluctuations, particularly unusually cool nights and
warm days.

      Tobacco mosaic virus is also reported to be involved in gray wall.  In
those cases the disorder is also called internal browning.  That tobacco
mosaic virus is involved in a disorder called internal brownig is not in
dispute.  What is in dispute is wheather the two disorders are the same or
seperate.  In a few other cases certain bacteria and fungi are thought to also
be implicated.  Another confusion is that gray wall is also sometimes called
blotchy ripening! 

      Information from Florida indicates that the varieties Merced and
Floridade may have tolerance to the conditions that predispose tomatoes to
gray wall

      Blotchy Ripening (see gray wall).

      Internal white tissue:  The expression of white tissue varies widely,
and is considered dependent on cultivar and environmental conditions.  It is
sometimes attributed to gray wall.  Potassium deficiency and high temperatures
are believed to aggravate the problem.

      Solar yellowing (also called yellow shoulder, yellow top and persistent
green shoulder):  This problem occurs most commonly on fruit ripening in late
May and June when days are longest, sunlight is most intense, and temperatures
exceed 85 F.  Under such conditions, lycopene (the red pigment in tomato)
fails to develop normally in some varieties, leaving only the carotene
(yellow) pigment to show at the shoulder or, with green-shoulder type toma-
toes, where the dark green portion was.  Even with temperatures under 85 F.
the surface temperature of exposed fruit, especially those with dark green
shoulders can become high enough to inhibit normal red color development.  In
other parts of the day or night, when temperatures do not exceed 85 F. some
red color may develop, resulting in an orange rather than a yellow abnormali-
ty. To reduce this problem, choose uniform-ripening varieties and protect
fruit surfaces from short-wave solar radiation by choosing varieties having
good fruit cover or, by the use of non-phytotoxic white wash applied when
fruit are at the mature-green stage.  The white wash will have to be removed
before the fruit is marketed. 

      Sunscald;  Mature green and tomatoes just turning red are most suscept-
ible.  Fruit develops white necrotic tissue surrounded by a yellow halo.  The
area may be sunken and wrinkled.  Damage is confined mainly to the upper
portion of the fruit, and is seen where fruit that has been covered by leaves
is suddenly exposed to light.  The area can later be covered by a black fungus
when the rest of the fruit turns red.

      Roughness and scars:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  associated
with large fruit.  Particularly severe when young plants are exposed to cool
temperatures, and night temperatures below 50 F. when flower clusters are
differentiating.

      Fruit cracks:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  Promoted by fluctua-
tions in soil moisture and temperature.  Often seen when varieties developed
for hot, arid climates are subjected to humid, wet conditions.  Cracks may be
radial or concentric.

HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE

      Tomato yields vary with area and number of harvests.  Yields may range
from 230 to 270 cwt./acre, or about 1200 20 lb. boxes per acre.

      Tomatoes may be harvested at the mature green stage (when the fruit
cavity is filled by gel), semi-ripe (with different amounts of red pigmenta-
tion) or fully ripe, depending or marketing requirement.  They are very
perishable and subject to surface and internal damage, and must be handled
accordingly.  Tomatoes are sensitive to chilling injury which differs with
maturity of the fruit.  Proper temperature management for ripening and storage
are critical to maintain quality.

      STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):

      Store mature-green tomatoes at 55 to 70 F; ripe fruit at 45 to 50 F and
a relative humidity of 90 to 95%.

      Mature-green tomatoes cannot be successfully stored at temperatures that
greatly delay ripening.  Tomatoes held for 2 weeks or longer at 55 F may
develop abnormal amount of decay and may fail to develop a deep red color. 
The optimum temperatures for ripening mature-green tomatoes range from 65 to
70 F.  Tomatoes will not ripen normally at temperatures above 80 F.  A
temperature range of 57 to 61 f is probably most desirable for slowing
ripening without increasing decay problems.  At these temperatures the more
mature fruit within the mature-green range will ripen enough to be packaged
for retailing in 7 to 14 days.

      Fruit held below 50 F become susceptible to alternaria decay during
subsequent ripening.  Increased decay during ripening occurs after 6 days'
exposure at 32 or 9 days at 40 F.  Mature-green tomatoes may also be damaged
by low temperatures in the field.  A high percentage of tomatoes exposed to
temperatures below 50 F for a week before harvest would probably develop
alternaria rot even at recommended storage temperatures.  Some loss due to
chilling can be expected in fall-grown tomatoes exposed for over 95 hours to
temperatures below 60 F during the week before harvest.  Severity of chilling
increases with increases in exposure time, so 135 hours' exposure to below 60
F may result in heavy losses.

      Chilling periods for fruit while in the field, during transit, and in
storage have a cumulative effect.  Thus, fruit chilled for only a short period
in the field can become very susceptible to decay when held for only a short
period at chilling temperature during transit or storage.  Tomatoes should be
kept out of cold, wet rooms because in addition to potential development of
chilling injury, extended refrigeration damages the ability of fruit to
develop desirable fresh tomato flavor.

      Ripening of tomatoes is initiated by the ethylene they produce.  How-
ever, in commercial practice, mature-green tomatoes are commonly treated with
supplemental ethylene to hasten ripening within a lot.  For treatment,
tomatoes are exposed to 100 to 150 ppm ethylene for 24 to 48 hours at 68 to 77
F and 85 to 95% relative humidity.  Ethylene is applied in a fairly airtight
room by a shot method, a generator, or a flow-through system.  Immature
tomatoes may ripen with supplemental ethylene, but the ripened fruit will lack
quality.  Fruit beyond the breaker stage do not benefit from supplemental
ethylene because their ripening processes already have been initiated by their
own ethylene.

      Semi-ripe tomatoes with 60 to 90% color can be held up to a week at 50
F.  If held longer, they will probably not have a normal shelf life during
retailing.  Riper tomatoes will tolerate lower temperatures.  For example,
"firm-rip" tomatoes can be held a few days at 45 to 50.  Long holding of
ripened tomatoes at low temperatures (40 and below) results in loss of color,
shelf life, and firmness.

      Fully ripe:  When it is necessary to hold fully ripe tomatoes for the
longest possible time before their immediate consumption upon removal from
storage, as for example, for ship-board or overseas use, they can be held at
32 to 35 F for up to 3 weeks.  Such tomatoes, although acceptable, would not
be of high quality and would have little if any shelf life remaining.  Mature-
green, turning, or pink tomatoes should be ripened before storing at such low
temperatures.

      A storage temperature of 50 to 55 F is recommended for semi-ripe to
fully ripe greenhouse-grown tomatoes.  Ripening of less mature tomatoes at 70
F is recommended before storage at 50 to 55 F.

      Research showed that an atmosphere with 3% oxygen and 97% nitrogen
extended the life of mature-green tomatoes up to 6 weeks at 55 F and that the
flavor of the ripened fruit had no off-flavor and was acceptable to the taste
panel.  A 1% or lower oxygen level can cause off-flavor.  Increased carbon
dioxide levels provide no benefit; in fact, levels of 3 to 5% have been
reported to cause injury at 55 F.          

PACKAGING 

      Cherry tomatoes are commonly packaged in 8 lb. baskets.

      Mature green tomatoes are commonly packaged in 30 lb. cartons and
wirebound crates, volume fill pack.

      Pink and ripe tomatoes are commonly packaged in 20 lb. two-layer flats
and cartons, tray pack; or 28 lb. three-layer lugs and cartons, tray pack; or,
30 lb. cartons, loose pack.

                           PEST CONTROL FOR TOMATOES

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.

WEED CONTROL

     When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.  Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
    maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures 
    and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.  Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed 
    will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.  Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the 
    field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed 
    weeds.


Weed Treatment             Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                             0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A     
  Gramoxone Extra    
  (see remarks)                                

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply    
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial  planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
______________________________________________________________________________

PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED
DIRECT-SEEDED AND TRANSPLANTS

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide             1 to 2 lb ai/A 
  Devrinol                                     

      Apply and incorporate uniformly 1 to 2 inches deep.  Use lower rates on
      light, sandy, or coarse-textured soils.  Following harvest, deep
      moldboard plowing or disk plowing must be completed before planting
      succeeding crops. (Inhibits roots of seedlings). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide               4 to 5 lb ai/A             
  Prefar                                       

      Apply before seeding or transplanting and incorporate 1 to 2 inches deep
      either simultaneously or immediately by cross-disking or using a PTO 
      rotary tiller, or apply preemergence to weeds soon after seeding or
      transplanting and follow with 1-inch overhead moisture.  Sometimes the   
      first flush of weeds must be controlled with cultivation before herbi-
      cide begins to control grass.  Consult label for planting sensitive
      crops within 18 months.  (Inhibits mitosis). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA                    9 lb ai/A                
  Dacthal                         
  (transplants only)                           

      Apply 4 to 6 weeks after transplanting to weed-free soil.  Soil should
      be moist and additional water applied for activation. Performs poorly in
      western Oregon and Washington.  Consult label for planting sensitive
      crops within 12 months.  Results can be improved with overhead irriga-
      tion applied immediately after spraying.  (Inhibits mitosis).        
______________________________________________________________________________

ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION

Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide.  In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant.  The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device.  Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant.  Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.

Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.

Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix:  Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated             
                  charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural vermicu-
                  lite.  If severe dustiness is a problem, add a small amount
                  of water.  Apply 1 ft3  of mixture/600 ft. of seeded row or  
                  approximately 15 cu.ft/A.  Fill the seed furrow using a      
                  positive feed applicator and press with a press wheel.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pebulate                4.0 to 6.0 lb ai/A        
  Tillam                                       

      Apply and immediately incorporate prior to seeding or transplanting, or
      at layby, apply as a directed spray and incorporate.  Do not apply  
      within 8 days of harvest.  Use the 4 lb. rate on coarse soils and on
      soils with less than 10% organic matter.  Do not use hot caps on
      transplanted tomatoes. 
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metribuzin              Broadcast                
  Lexone, Sencor        0.25 to 0.5 lb ai/A      
  (established                                 
  tomatoes only)                               

      Apply as a single treatment or split application allowing a nimimum of
      14 days between treatments at 0.25 to 0.37 lb ai/A to tomatoes with at   
      least 5 to 6 true leaves, but before weeds are 1 inch tall. Use lower
      rates on soils of 0.5 to 2% organic matter, but do not use on soils
      containing less than 0.5% organic matter.  Do not use surfactant,
      tank-mix with other pesticides, apply within 24 hours of other pesticide
      applications, nor apply within 7 days of harvest.  Do not apply within 3
      days after periods of cool, wet, or cloudy weather. Do not exceed 1.0 lb
      ai/A per season.  Read the label carefully and note other precautions.
      (Inhibits photosynthesis).                                               
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Directed spray           
                        0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A        

      Apply as a directed spray, either in a single treatment or split
      application allowing a minimum of 14 days between treatments when
      intense weed pressure exists or in fields with hard to control weeds. 
      Do not exceed 1.0 lb ai/A per season.  Note all other precautions listed
      above and on label. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sethoxydim              0.29 lb ai/A   
  Poast              

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.  Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to im-  
      prove leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are
      stunted or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. 
      Resistant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
      quackgrass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 20 days of harvest,
      nor exceed 4.5 pints/A per season.  (Inhibits fatty acid production,
      cell membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS ARE
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                  Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, including                           endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Green peach aphid                                                        
 Myzus persicae                             malathion - 1 to 2 lb

Potato aphid                                diazinon - 0.25 lb
 Macrosiphum euphorbiae                      
                                            Phosdrin - 0.25 lb                
Yellowish, pink to pale green               
plant lice.                                 azinphosmethyl - 0.5 to 0.75 lb
                                            
                                            methyl parathion - 0.5 to 1.5 lb 

                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb        

                                            dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.5 lb   
                                                                          
                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb     
                                                                          
                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 3 l          
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colorado Potato Beetle                      azinphosmethyl - 0.375 lb
Leptinotarsa decemlineata                                              
                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 3 lb      
Yellow and black striped beetle.                                       
Larvae reddish orange with two              carbaryl - 1 lb            
rows of black spots on each                                            
side.                                       endosulfan - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
                                                                       
                                            phosphamidon - 0.5 to 1.0 lb      
                                                                       
                                            methoxychlor - 1 to 3 b        

                                            Asana - 0.035 to 0.05 lb.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms, armyworms                         carbaryl bait - 2.0 lb  
Different species                                                   
                                            Lannate - 0.45 lb      
Small to large larvae that feed                                     
on stems, foliage, and fruit.               Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb

                                            malathion - 3.5 lb      
                                            Armyworm only. 
                                            
                                            Bacillus thuringiensis - 
                                            1 to 2 qt.  Use an appropriate 
                                            spreader-sticker.

                                            azinphosmethyl - 0.75 to 1.5 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles and Cucumber Beetles           Di-Syston - 1 to 3 lb          
including Tuber flea beetle,                Flea beetle only.               
 Epitrix tuberis                                                           
                                            methoxychlor - 1 to 3 lb        
Small, oval, shiny bronze jump-                                             
ing beetles. Feed on foliage.               rotenone - .5 lb                
                                                                            
and Western spotted cucumber beetle         carbaryl - 0.5 to 1 lb          
 Diabrotica undecimpunctata                 Flea beetle only.  Extremely
                                            hazardous to pollinating bees.  
Yellowish-green, black-spot-                                                
ted beetle. Common to western               endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Oregon. Damaging to small                   Flea beetle only.               
plants.                                                                     
                                            Dibrom - 1 lb                   
                                            Flea beetle only.               

                                            azinphosmethyl - 0.5 to 0.75 lb    
                                            Flea beetle only.               
                                                                            
                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb

                                            methyl paration - 1.0 to 1.5 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tomato hornworm                             Dibrom - 1 lb                   
Manduca quinquemaculata 
                                            endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Mature caterpillar 4 to 5 inches                                            
long, pale green with a short               trichlorfon - 1 lb              
curved red horn on posterior                                                
end.                                        azinphosmethyl - 0.75 to 1.5 lb
                                                                            
                                            Asana - 0.015 to 0.03 lb.
                                                                            
                                            carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb. Extremely
                                            hazardous to pollinating bees.

                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
                                                                            
                                            Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 
                                            qt.  Use a spreader sticker to 
                                            enhance control.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites                                methyl parathion - 1.0 to 1.5 lb
Tetranychus spp.                                                          
                                            Kelthane MF - 0.375 to 0.75 lb     
Tiny, spiderlike animals lo-                Do not feed.
cated on undersurfaces of foli-             
age. Feed on plant juices and               Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
cause leaves to yellow and die.                                           
                                            Dibrom - 1 lb                 
                                                                          
                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 3 lb         
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 3 to 4 lb 
Limonius spp.                                                    
                                            Telone II - preplant
Brown, jointed larvae of click
beetles. Kill young plants,                 Telone C-17 - preplant
weaken older ones.
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________








DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

TOMATO - ANTHRACNOSE

Cause: Colletotrichum coccodes, a fungus. The disease is not as common in the
Pacific Northwest; however, it does occur.  

The fungus persists from season to season on infected plant refuse in the
soil. The initial fruit infection may come from infected leaves, but most
fruits probably are infected from spores produced in the soil.  Fruits may be
infected when green and small, but they show no evident spotting until they
begin to ripen. Fruits become increasingly susceptible as they approach
maturity.

In wet weather, the spores produced in the spots on the fruit are splashed by
rain or are spread by pickers to infect other fruits.  Overhead irrigation
favors the spread of disease.

Symptoms:

Fruit: Spotting on the fruit is the major symptom of anthracnose; however,
there may also be leaf infection. At first, infected fruits show small,
slightly sunken, water-soaked, circular spots. These spots soon become about
one-half inch in diameter, darker, and more depressed, and often have concen-
tric markings. The centers sometimes become tan and have numerous dark specks.
In warm weather the spot soon penetrates into the fruit and the fruit becomes
worthless.

Leaves: Each leaf spot is a small, dark area of dead tissue, often surrounded
by a yellow zone. The oldest leaves are the most commonly infected.

Control:

1. Avoid planting in poorly drained soils. Anthracnose is likely to be more
prevalent in wet soils.

2. Use 3 to 4 year rotation. The fungus lives from season to season in plant
parts in the soil.

3. Spray with Maneb or chlorothalonil (Bravo).  




Residues:

Chlorothalonil (Bravo 720) 2 to 3 pt of product/A in sufficient water to
cover. No time limit. Tolerance 5 ppm.

Maneb -- apply at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 6.4 lbe ai/A or
within 5 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - ASTER YELLOWS

Cause: The aster yellows mycoplasmalike organism which is transmitted by
several leafhoppers.

Symptoms: Plants are yellow and stunted. The youngest leaves show vein
clearing and marginal yellowing. The leaves take on a vertical orientation. As
the disease develops the veins take on a purple coloration. The symptoms of
this disease are similar to curly top. The two diseases may be separated at
times on the basis of leaf curling, which is more severe with curly top.

Control: Attempts to control aster yellows have only been partially suc-
cessful. Weed host and vector control is of some value.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - BACTERIAL CANKER

Cause: A bacterium, Clavibacter michigansis subsp. michigansis (Corynebacteri-
um michiganense), which is carried in or on the seed or survives in tomato
debris in or on the soil. The bacterium may be spread in the seed flat by
handling seedlings and by normal watering. In the field it may be spread by
handling plants, pruning sucker shoots, use of contaminated stakes or trellis-
es, and by rain and irrigation water.

Symptoms: Seedlings may be destroyed or remain stunted.

Occasionally seedlings will not show symptoms until after transplanting into
the field.

Older plants - one or several of the following symptoms may be present:

1. A yellowish-brown discoloration of the vascular tissue in the stem and
petioles. This discoloration is most pronounced at the junction of the stem
and petiole and is almost always present in infected plants.

2. Burning (necrosis) of leaflet margins.

3. Wilting of leaves and curling of leaflets, starting at the base of the stem
and progressing upward. Unilateral wilting of leaves (i.e., one side of the
leaf appears wilted while the leaflets on the other side of the midrib appear
normal) is common. Later, affected leaves become brown, wither, and die.

4. Open cankers on stems, petioles, and/or midribs.

5. `Bird's-eye' spotting on fruit. Brown spots are surrounded by white halos.

Plants may become infected at any stage of growth. When seedlings are infect-
ed, wilting and death may be rapid. With larger plants of fruit bearing size,
severely diseased plants rarely die but are a total loss as far as fruit
production is concerned.

Characteristic field symptom - yellow discoloration in vascular tissues at
axils of leaves as a result of the bacteria collecting at these points. This
discoloration lasts only a short time (1 to 2 hours) if the plant is removed
from the soil. Often when the stem is broken, the pith will pull out from the
stem as a result of the deterioration of the vascular tissues by the bacteria.

Stems-longitudinal open cankers.

Fruit-spots with brown centers and white halo. The spots are the result of
infection by bacteria washed by rain from the stem cankers to the fruit.

Control:

1. Seed-plant only disease-free seed.

2. Seed and seedling treatment-wrap seed in a cheesecloth bag and soak in 1.05
percent sodium hypochlorite (1 part household bleach to 4 parts water) for 40
minutes. Spread out seed and allow to dry. Then treat seed with thiram (3 oz
ai (slurry) or 4 oz ai (dry)/100 lb).

Beginning at the first true leaf stage, spray seedlings weekly for a minimum
of two applications with a 200 ppm solution of streptomycin sulfate.

3. Soil and flats-use disease-free soil and flats. Treat flats if contam-
inated. Dip for 5 minutes in a chlorine solution (1 part chlorox or other
equivalent solution to 3 parts water). Boiling water or steam may also be 
used. It is very important to separate the disease-free flats from contam-
inated soil-polyethylene sheeting is effective and easy to use.

4. Fields - use a 4 year rotation. Plant in disease-free soil if possible.Do
not plant in fields receiving irrigation or drainage water from severely
contaminated fields.

5. Do not handle plants when wet. Snap off suckers with fingers instead of
pruning with a knife. Fumigate contaminated stakes, trellises, wires, flats,
etc., with methyl bromide under a plastic tarp.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - BLOSSOM END ROT

Cause: Calcium deficiency aggravated by widely fluctuating soil moisture
conditions-nonpathogenic. Calcium in the fruit may be deficient because (1)
insufficient calcium in the soil, (2) excess N, Mg, K or Na has been applied
as fertilizer, (3) very wet or very dry soils interfere with uptake of
calcium, (4) combinations of (1) to (3).

Symptoms: Black leathery lesions form on blossom end of fruit. The affected
area shrinks and causes misshapen fruits. Only some fruits on a plant may be
affected. Green as well as ripe fruits may be affected.
Control:

Before planting

1. Add lime to adjust pH of soil to 6.8 to 7.2. Mix lime thoroughly in top 8
to 12 inches of soil. Lime is best applied in fall.

2. Use only moderate amounts of additional fertilizers to keep plants normally
green and vigorous but not luxuriant.

3. Do not plant tomatoes where drainage is poor, surface water accumulates, or
soil is droughty.

After Planting

1. Mulch plants with black plastic or loose organic materials.

2. Fertilize with nitrogen side-dressing only if it is required to maintain
green color and moderate-growth. Use calcium nitrate or ammonium sulfate at
rate of .25 lb to 100 sq ft (100 lb/A).

3. Maintain uniform soil moisture. Apply water to wet all soil in root zone
every 7 to 10 days. About 24 hours after watering, dig a small hole with a
trowel to a depth of 1 foot to be certain water has penetrated to that level.

Sprays. If symptoms of blossom end rot are detected, spray the leaves and
fruit with calcium chloride at the rate of 2 T in 1 gal water (4 lb in 200 gal
water/A). Apply two or more sprays at 1-week intervals. The spray may cause
some injury to the margins of the leaves.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - CURLY TOP

Cause: Curly top virus. The same virus also causes curly top of sugar beets.
The disease may be severe in central and eastern Oregon. Other vegetable crops
such as watermelon, bean, beet, spinach, squash, and pepper, are susceptible.
The virus is disseminated only by the beet leafhopper, (Circulifer tenellus).

Curly top occurs in the Willamette Valley, especially the upper (northern)
valley when the winds blowing through the Columbia Gorge transport the beet
leafhopper from eastern Oregon.

The leafhopper takes up the virus in 1 minute of feeding but the maximum
result is attained when the leafhopper is retained on infected leaves for 2
days. It is then able to keep the virus within its body for the remainder of
its life. An incubation period within the insect's body for 21 to 24 hours or
longer is necessary before it can transmit the virus to another plant, unless
the temperature is very high- then the period may be reduced to 4 to 6 hours.
The virus is never carried in the leafhopper's eggs.

The time between the feeding of the insect and the appearance of curly top
symptoms varies according to the prevailing temperature.  When the tempera-
ture is very high, symptoms may show in 24 hours; normal temperatures - 7 to
14 days; cool weather - up to 30 days.
The disease occurs in areas where light intensity is high, summer heat is
prolonged, relative humidity is low, and evaporation is rapid. In years when
the average relative humidity is 35 percent, the disease is very severe; when
it is over 50 percent there is almost no curly top.  Shading, which lowers the
light intensity and retards evaporation, probably delays visits of leafhop-
pers, decreases the percentage of infection, and reduces symptom expression.

Symptoms: Pronounced upward rolling and twisting of the leaflets exposing
their undersurfaces, a stiff and leathery condition of the foliage, and a
peculiar dull yellowing of the entire plant. Purpling of leaflet veins and
stunting of the plant often occur. Many of the roots and rootlets are killed.
Severely affected plants die.

Control: There are no satisfactory methods of control. Possibly the most
practical suggestion for control is the setting out of plants in order to
avoid severe leafhopper attack when the plants are small. In home gardens,
shading the tomato plants will help avoid leafhopper attack. The sugar beet
leafhopper avoids shaded plants.

Attempts to control the leafhopper have not as yet been effective. The
varieties listed below are resistant to curly top. Varieties marked VF are
resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium wilt: `Payette', `Owyhee', `Super Star
VF', `Red Lode VF', `Ida-Red VF', `Parma VF', `Bi-centennial VF', `Rowpac VF',
`Columbia VF', `Rose VF', `Salad Master VF'.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - DAMPING-OFF (Seed And Seedling Rot)

Cause: Several fungus organisms which live in the soil.

Symptoms: Seedlings rot at the soil line and fall over or may not emerge.

Control: For the seed rot phase, see Seed Treatment-Vegetables. In the
damping-off phase, allow the surface of the soil to dry, then water with a
copper drench. Copper drenches are prepared by mixing 1 oz of COCS, or any
other fixed or proprietory copper, in 3 gal water. Stir thoroughly, then
sprinkle on the seedbed generously.

Or, where pythium is a problem, apply 4-8 pt Ridomil 2E as a broadcast surface
spray immediately before or after planting in 20-50 gal of water.  Lightly
incorporate if application is made before planting or with sprinklers if
applied after planting.  Band application may also be used - see product
label.  Rotation crop restrictions apply - see product label.

Or, use Anchor at 1.5 flowable oz/cwt seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - EARLY BLIGHT

Cause: Alternaria solani, a fungus. The fungus also causes early blight of
potatoes. It attacks eggplant, horsenettle, nightshade, and other wild plants
related to tomato.

The fungus may occur on or in the seed, but internal infection is rare in seed
produced commercially. The fungus can live in decayed plant refuse in the
soil.

Symptoms: Small, irregular, brown, dead spots usually first appear on the
older leaves. The spots enlarge until they are 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter. As
they enlarge they commonly show ridged concentric rings in a target pattern
(bull's-eye pattern). The leaf tissue around the spots turns yellow. If the
spots are numerous, the entire leaf will be yellowed. Some spotting of the
older leaves may occur in the early season, but the greatest injury usually
occurs as the fruit begins to mature.

Dark, leathery, sunken spots appear on affected older fruits.

The spots may be quite large and show concentric markings similar to those on
diseased leaves. The dark, dry decay may extend to some depth into the fruit.

Control: Spray at 7 to 10 day intervals with Bravo, mancozeb, or Maneb. Spray
at 14 day intervals with Ridomil/Bravo 8lW.  In home gardens bordeaux 8-8-100
or fixed coppers are effective if applied regularly.

Residues:

Anilazine (Dyrene)-Use 1 to 2.5 lb ai/A per application.  Do not apply more
than 30 lb Dyrene 50 WP per season.  Do not apply within 3 days of harvest.  
Tolerance 10 ppm.

Chlorothalonil (Bravo)-Use 1.125 to 1.5 lb actual/A. Tolerance 5.0 ppm.  This
material is available as Daconil 2787 for home gardens.

Copper-exempt.

Mancozeb - Do not apply within 5 days of harvest.

Maneb - Apply at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 6.4 lb
ai/A/season or within 5 days of harvest.  

Ridomil/Bravo 8lW - rotation crop regulations apply, see product label.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - FRUIT ROTS

Cause: Many fungus and bacterial organisms.

Symptoms: Fruit rots from small necrotic spots to complete fruit rotting.

Control:

1. Prompt cooling after harvest. Avoid harvest cuts, bruises, and cracked 
fruits.

2. Much of the rot can be avoided by staking or supporting the tomatoes in
some manner so they do not touch the ground.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - LATE BLIGHT

Cause: Phytophthora infestans, a fungus which also attacks potatoes.

Symptoms: Brown or black lesions begin on leaf veins, petioles, and stems.
Cool, wet weather favors disease development, and hot, dry weather checks the
advance of the fungus in infected parts. On fruits, gray-green, water-soaked
spots form which enlarge, coalesce, and turn dark.

Control: Spray at 7 to 10 day intervals with Bravo, Maneb, mancozeb, Ridomil
MZ58, Ridomil Copper, or Ridomil/Bravo 8lW at 14 day intervals.  Bordeaux
8-8-100, chlorothalonil, or fixed coppers are effective if applied regularly
in home gardens.

Residues: 

Chlorothalonil (Bravo)-Use 1.125 to 1.5 lb actual/A. Tolerance 5 ppm.  This
active ingredient is available as Daconil 2787 for the home gardener.

Copper-Exempt.

Mancozeb - Do not apply within 5 days of harvest.

Maneb - Apply at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 6.4 lb
ai/A/season or within 5 days of harvest.

Ridomil/Bravo 8lW - rotation crop limitations apply.  See product labels.

Ridomil MZ58.  Do not apply within 5 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - LEAF MOLD

Cause: Cladosporium fulvum, a fungus. In the Pacific Northwest, leaf mold is a
disease of greenhouse tomatoes. The spores are resistant to drying and may
survive about the greenhouse for several months after the plants have been
removed.

Symptoms: White spots which rapidly enlarge and become yellow appear on the
upper surfaces of the older leaves. The lower surfaces of the patches become
covered with a velvety, olive-brown fungus growth. When the disease is severe,
much of the foliage is killed and the crop is greatly reduced.

Control: The fungus is most destructive when the humidity is high (90 to 100
percent at the leaf surface) and temperature ranges from 65 to 80 F. The
disease usually will not be severe if the relative humidity at the leaf
surface is kept below 90 percent.

Leaf mold can be kept under control if there is ample ventilation and good air
circulation in the houses. A temperature of 60  to 65 F, at least, should be
maintained. Night heating is often practiced, when the outside air drops below
60 F, to reduce the increase in humidity that comes with the lowering of the
outside air temperature.

Varieties reported to be resistant to some strains of the fungus are: `Santa
Fe', `Globelle' (pink fruit), `Bay State' (red fruit), and `Vetomold' (red
fruit).

Spraying for the control of leaf mold in greenhouses has not been very
successful because of the difficulty of covering the undersurfaces of the
leaves.

Treatment of the greenhouse with a thermal aerosol of termil has reduced loss
with this disease. Use one 3.5 oz (20 percent) smoke generator per 1,000 sq ft
of area or one 8 gram (90 percent) thermal tablet per 400 sq ft of area. Do
not apply when greenhouse temperature is above 75 percent F.

Residues: Termil-tolerance 5 ppm. No time limitations.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - MOSAIC

Cause: Tobacco mosaic virus. The virus also affects peppers, eggplants,
petunias, and many other solanaceous plants. The virus is easily spread by
handling mosaic-affected and healthy plants in transplanting, brushing against
plants during hoeing or cultivating, and when tying and pruning the vines. The
virus is carried by certain species of aphids, but these insects are not as
important as human beings in the general spread of the disease. Since the
virus is present to some extent in cigar, cigarette, and pipe tobaccos, it is
probable that the greatest portion of the initial mosaic infection of tomato
seedlings can be traced to this source.

Symptoms: Foliage becomes mottled with alternating yellowish and dark-green
spots. Leaves are frequently fernlike in appearance. Sometimes necrotic spots
or streaks develop on stems and leaves.

Control: See Tomato--Variety Selection below for resistant varieties.  Wash
hands with soap and water before handling plants. Do not smoke while handling
tomato plants since about 80 percent of cigarettes contain tobacco carrying
the virus. Use clean soil each year in seedbeds or sterilize the old soil.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - NEMATODE (Root-Knot)

Cause: Meloidogyne hapla. Root-knot nematodes are found nearly everywhere and
are the only known nematode pest of Oregon vegetables grown under glass. The
nematodes are usually introduced with infested soil or mulch materials and in
transplants.

Symptoms: Infected plants are stunted and produce little or no fruit. Conspi-
cuous wilting occurs during warm weather. Knots or galls of infected roots are
usually much larger and more numerous on greenhouse-grown crops than on the
same crops grown outdoors.

Control:

1. Plant resistant varieties. See varietal list under Tomato Wilt.

2. Prevent introduction of nematodes by the use of nematode-free plants; 
fumigate soil prior to bringing it in greenhouse; grow seedlings in 
nematode-free soil.

3. Soil fumigation with Telone II or Vapam prior to planting.

4.  Many resistant varieties are available.  See Tomato - Variety Selection.

Residues:

Telone II preplanting soil fumigation - allow 2 to 3 weeks to elapse between
time of application and planting, or wait until odor has left soil. Do not
treat extremely heavy soils. Considered to be a nonfood use.

Vapam preplanting soil fumigation - Expose to fumigant for 7 days, then culti-
vate top 2 inches to increase aeration. Planting time varies with soil type,
quantity applied, and soil temperature. Under best conditions 14 to 21 days
are required to prevent phytotoxicity. Considered to be a nonfood use.

Sampling:  Root-knot nematodes are sedentary endoparasites (see Nematodes--
Life History), and only second-stage juveniles (the infective stage) and adult
males (which may be rare) are present in the soil.  Before planting crops
susceptible to root-knot nematodes, take soil samples with sufficient lead
time to implement management procedures if necessry.  For example, after soil
fumigation, it may be several weeks before crops can be planted.  Fall
sampling for crops to be planted the following spring is an excellent strate-
gy.  When sending samples for diagnosis, include roots as well as soil.

Reference: See Soil Fumigants.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - POWDERY MILDEW

Cause: A fungus, Leveillula taurica, that has occurred at only a scattering of
sites in the Pacific Northwest.

Symptoms:  Yellow blotches of irregular shape on the leaves that later turn
necrotic.  The fungus usually can be found on the lower side of the leaf, but
it sporulates only sparsely.  Sometimes the lesions develop concentric ridges
that mimic early blight.  Individual leaves die and continue to hang on the
plant.

Control:  Usually the disease does not require control measures because it
occurs late in the season.  When control is ncessary, wettable sufur or sulfur
dust will control the disease.  Check label of particular products for rates
of application.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - SEED TREATMENT

Aids in control of seed decay and damping-off.

Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed.

Thiram -- use labeled rate of product.

Captan -- use labeled rate of product.  

Residues: Thiram - Do not use more than 4 oz actual/100 lb of seed (dry).  Do
not use more than 3 oz actual/100 lb of seed (slurry).  Tolerance 7 ppm.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - TOMATO SPOTTED WILT VIRUS (Tip Blight)

Cause: A virus which is transmitted from plant to plant by thrips (an insect).
Many ornamental plants (dahlias, asters, zinnias) are carriers of the virus.

Symptoms: Bronze-colored markings develop on the upper side of the leaflets.
Veins on undersurface turn purple, and there is upward rolling of leaves.
Small, circular necrotic spots may also appear on the leaves. The necrosis
spreads to the growing tip causing it to wilt and die. On green and red
fruits, yellowish spots appear often with concentric zones of yellow, bronze,
green, pink, or red. This fruit-spotting is the best symptom for diagnosis.

Control:

1. Do not grow vegetable transplants in greenhouses that contain TSWV-infected
ornamentals.

2. Spray for thrips control.

3. Remove and burn infected plants.

4. Do not set out fields adjacent to ornamental plantings.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - STREAK (Combination Streak)

Cause: The combination of tobacco mosaic virus and potato virus `X' in tomato
produce the tomato streak disease.

Symptoms: Necrotic leaf spots appear followed by the death of both leaves and
stems. The whole plant may be killed. Fruits are distorted or may not form.

Control: Do not use tobacco while handling tomato plants. Wash hands after
handling potatoes if tomatoes are to be handled.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - VARIETY SELECTION

Varieties are listed below by their resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium
wilts and root-knot nematode.










                                       Tomato Variety Resistance
Variety                         Maturity Date              Resistance*        

`Better Boy'                        Late                      VFN
`Better Boy F.'                     Early                     VFN
`Big Set'                           Late                      VFN
`Carmen'                            Late                      VFNT
`Carnival'                          Late                      VFNT
`Casino Royale'                     Mid                       VFNT
`Cavalier'                          Late                      VFNT
`Celebrity'                         Late                      VFNT
`Chico III'                         Mid                       F
`First Lady'                        Mid                       VFNT
`Heinz 1350'                        Mid                       VF
`Heinz 1370'                        Late                      F
`Jetstar'                           Mid                       VF
`Merced'                            Mid                       VFT
`Milagro'                           Late                      VFNT
`New Yorker'                        Early                     V
`Pik Red F.'                        Early                     VFN
`Pik Rite F.'                       Early                     VFN
`President'                         Mid                       VFNT
`Red PAK'                           Mid                       VF
`Royal Flush'                       Early                     VFN
`Rutgers'                           Early                     F
`Santa Fe'                          Late                      VF
`Small Fry' (cherry tomato)         Early                     VFN
`Spring Giant'                      Early                     VF
`Spring Set' (F. hybrid)            Early                     VF
`Sunny'                             Mid                       VF
`Sunray' (yellow tomato)            Mid-late                  F
`Supersonic'                        Mid                       VF
`Toy Boy' (cherry)                  Early                     VFN
`VF Fireball'                       Mid-late                  VF
`VFN-8'                             Mid-late                  VFN
`VFN Bush'                          Mid                       VFN
`Wonderboy'                         Late                      VFN
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
* V = Resistant to Verticillum wilt
  F = Resistant to Fusarium wilt
  N = Resistant to root-knot nematode
  T = Resistant to Tobacco Mosaic Virus
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - WHITE MOLD

Cause:  A fungus, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, that attacks numerous other hosts
and overwinters as hard, black sclerotia in soil and debris.  The fungus will
enter any organic debris such as old leaves or blossoms.  The fungus usually
grows from these materials into the healthy portions of the tomato plant.

Symptoms:  The first symptoms are a rapidly expanding soft rot usually
centered on a piece of organic material (old leaves, flower petals, etc.). 
When conditions become drier, sometimes the gray area is covered with white,
cottony mycelium.  Hard, black irregularly shaped sclerotia develop in the
mycelium and within the stem tissue of the tomato.

Control:  No fungicides are registered for use on this fungus on tomatoes. 
Avoid dense planting to allow the lower portion of the plant to dry out
between irrigations.  A few deep irrigations are better than frequent shallow
ones.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - WILT

Cause: Either Fusarium oxysporum or Verticillium albo-atrum, fungus organisms
that live in the soil.

Symptoms: Yellowing of the lower leaves which wilt and die as the disease
progresses upward. The vascular system is discolored. Plants are seldom
completely killed by either fungus, unless infected when very young, but
growth is retarded and yields are low.

Control: Use resistant varieties. Many VF lines are available from seed
companies.  See Tomato-Variety Selection. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOMATO - YELLOW SHOULDER
                                                                          
Cause: Yellow shoulder, sometimes also referred to as blotchy ripening, is a
physiological disorder.  It is associated with poor potassium fertilization,
high temperatures and excessive short-wave radiation and an increased radia-
tion load.  It is also more common in green-shoulder fruited varieties.

Symptoms: This disorder is expressed as a yellow or yellow-orange discolor-
ation in the shoulder region, separated from the red tissue by a distinct 
line of demarcation.  The yellow tissue never turns red even after prolong
storage.  Severity may vary from discoloration in only several millimeters of
tissue next to the stem scar, to discoloration of almost the entire stem half
of the fruit.  Internal symptoms are expressed as white pericarp and septa
tissue that can be shallow or extend through the entire fruit. 

Control: Harvest fruit in the mature-green stage and room ripen.  Avoid sus-
ceptible varieties, especially those with green shoulder fruit.  Use varieties
with good leaf cover.  Maintain adequate potassium levels in the soil.         
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________













          -------------------------------------------------------
          -------------------------------------------------------
          This  information  was  adapted  by  the  Oregon  State 
          University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW 
          publications  as  well  as other  vegetable  production 
          guidelines  from  public institutions in the  U.S.  and
          Canada.   These  guidelines  are intended as  a general
          guide   for  Oregon   commercial   vegetable producers.
          Address  comments or questions to your County Extension
          Extension  Agent, or  Dr. N. S. Mansour,  Department of 
          Horticulture,  Oregon State  University, Corvallis,  OR
          9733l.
          -------------------------------------------------------


From jmh@shore.net Mon Mar  6 10:41:49 EST 1995
Article: 56519 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!noc.near.net!shore.shore.net!shore.shore.net!not-for-mail
From: jmh@shore.net (Joann M. Hnat)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Canberra gardener
Date: 1 Mar 1995 11:59:05 -0500
Organization: North Shore Access/Eco Software, Inc; (info@shore.net)
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X-Status: 

Within the past few weeks, a couple of people from Australia (one from 
Canberra) were posting on this board.  I tried to copy your addresses, 
but I was new to the Internet and I lost them!  I have a friend who lives 
in California (transplanted from Canberra) and who is an avid gardener, 
and I would love to surprise her with the names of some gardeners from 
"back home".  So if you see this posting and you'd like to chat with her, 
please e-mail me (so I don't lose your message again!).

  .. Joann


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:51 EST 1995
Article: 56520 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Tomatoes: Greenhouse
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:08:47 -0800
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                        GREENHOUSE TOMATO PRODUCTION

      Midwinter greenhouse tomato production is not generally recommended for
western Oregon.  Poor light intensity and high humidity often result in poor
fruit set and quality.  Effective lighting and humidity control is not
considered to be economical.  Heating and other production and marketing
costs, and competition from outdoor production from California, Arizona and
Mexico, and the availability of greenhouse tomatoes from Canada at competative
prices, make profitable greenhouse production in western Oregon difficult. 
Greenhouse production in British Columbia is possible because of their high
inputs and the technical level of management possible in large operations (the
trend is to shift to operations of over 2 acres), and the high quality glass
greenhouses being used in the great majority of the operations, and their
strong marketing organiztion.

      Tomato is the most commonly produced greenhouse vegetable crop. 
Although claims by greenhouse promoters are made that 30 or more lbs. of
marketable fruit can be expected per plant (or plant-space) per year, such
production is only possible with very high inputs in quality facilities and
cultural practices.  Production in western Oregon of about 20 to 25 lbs. would
be more realistic. A one crop schedule (December to December) is used by some
Pacific northwest growers and is common in British Columbia, Canada.  Growers
there start their crop in January and harvest usually from March through
November.  A two-crop system is recommended under western Oregon conditions. 
This would consist of a fall (August to December) and a spring (January to
June) crop.  A two crop system is at less risk from crop pests, and allows
fruit set and harvest when environmental conditions are best, and competition
from outdoor productions is lowest.

      Depending on the number of units purchased, double polyethylene green-
house costs in 1994 would run about $6.00 to $7.00 per square foot.  Hydropon-
ic equipment will cost another $1.50 to $2.00 per square foot.  Land cost,
site preparation, foundations, concrete floors and electric, water and gas
service may cost another $3.50 to $4.00 a square foot.  A number of different
materials are used in greenhouse structures and coverings which can result in
a wide range of total construction cost. This guide does not address green-
house engineering or coverings.

      Approximately 25,000 to 35,000 square feet of greenhouse tomato produc-
tion is considered to be the minimum size economic unit.  Smaller units are
often used for part time or hobby production.  In Oregon, total greenhouse
vegetable production was just under one acre in 1994.  This is similar for the
state of Washington.

      Plants have been commonly grown in well fertilized, well drained soil
(ground- bed production).  This conventional system is now largely replaced by
a soilless culture system.  Soilless culture utilizes totally artificial means
of providing plants with nutrients and anchor.  A major advantage is the
elimination of the need for soil sterilization, by steam or chemicals.

      Due to environmental concerns, restrictions may be in place regarding
the disposal of excess fertilizer solutions and growing media.  Possible
options are to discard fertilizer solutions by using it on pastures or in
other agricultural applications, and to recycle growing media by blending it
with other potting mixes or agricultural soils.  Consult appropriate agencies
for available options.  

SOILLESS CULTURE 

      Soilless culture is more demanding and less forgiving of mistakes than
conventional soil culture.  Good nutrient media composition and nutrient
balance through the entire crop cycle are mandatory. 

      Soilless culture methods allow production of tomatoes in areas where
suitable soil is not available or where disease or other conditions make
ground production unfeasible.  Although the system can be automated to mini-
mize irrigation and fertilization labor input, continuous monitoring of most
aspects of plant growth and culture media, nutrient balance, and a thorough
understanding of the crop and its physiology is critical.  Costs of the au-
tomatic devices and special nutrient media are substantial.

      All other aspects of production remain the same as with conventional
culture.  There are little, or no yield or quality advantages over conven-
tional production if the quality of management is equal.

      Excellent books on this subject are: 

      Hydroponic Food Production by Howard M. Resh, Woodbridge Press Publish-
ing Company, Santa Barbara, CA 93160.  

      A Guide for the Hydroponic & Soilless Culture Grower by J. Benton Jones,
Jr., Timber Press, POB 1631, Beaverton OR 97075.

      Greenhouse Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers 1993-1994
Edition.  British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food., 808
Douglas St. Victoria, British Columbia, Canada V8W 2Z7.

      Two major soilless culture systems are used, those in which plant nutri-
ents are recirculated (closed-system hydroponics), and those that utilize
artificial media for plants to anchor but new nutrient solution is constantly
provided to the plants and the excess nutrient solution is not collected and
recirculated (open-system hydroponics or bag culture).

      Closed-system hydroponic culture is the growing of plants in troughs or
tubes, where plants are anchored in gravel, sand, or artificial soilless
mixes; or without artificial media for anchor, such as nutrient-flow technique
(NFT).  Any system used must be suitably built to allow proper application and
recirculation of the nutrient media.  Flow rates of 1 1/2 to 2 quarts per
minute are most common.  In a closed-system, the nutrient solution is regular-
ly monitored and adjusted for pH as needed.  Because plants take up nutrients
at different rates, and roots exude certain chemicals, imbalances and problems
can occur.  To prevent undesirable build up of certain elements, the nutrient
solution may need to be changed every 2-3 weeks with changes as often as once
per week during periods of peak growth.  By careful monitoring of nutrients in
sloution and especially the electrical conductivity (EC) daily, and by
installing activated charcoal filters to remove certain toxic root exudates, a
large reservoir of nutrient solution may be maintained for one crop cycle (up
to 10-11 months).  The EC should be maintained at 2.5, so that fresh water is
added when EC exceeds 2.5 and new, complete nutrient solution is added to
bring the EC back to 2.5.

      Bag Culture uses artificial media (usually rockwool) packaged in 3 or 4
cubic foot bags.  Rockwool comes in two densities, standard and low density. 
The low density is used for one year and discarded.  The standard density may
be sterilized and reused for up to three crops.  Two common trade names are
Redi-Earth and Metro-Mix.  The 4 cubic foot bags are best for tomatoes.  Two
rows of tomatoes are usually planted per bag with plants spaced 16 inches
apart in each row with rows 16 inches apart.  Bags are placed in rows 6 feet
apart, and spaced down the row to allow a uniform 16 inch spacing between
plants.  A drip irrigation system with spaghetti drippers for each plant is
used to distribute the nutrient solution.  A 10%-20% excess solution is
applied during cloudy cool periods and 25% to as high as 50% under sunny, warm
conditions to provide drainage and prevent salt buildup.  This excess should
be collected and discarded or may be reused with certain restrictions.

      Common modifications of this system (to reduce cost) utilize 3-5 gallon
plastic bags or pails with saw dust, pine bark or rice hull media.  Western
Hemlock and Douglas-fir are most commonly available and the main ones used in
the Pacific Northwest.  Avoid western red cedar because of possible toxicity
from chemicals in it.  Use a medium-fine grade of horticultural grade (guaran-
teed to be free of toxic chemicals that may be used by the lumber industry). 
If too fine a grade, the saw dust will limit oxygen exchange as it breaks down
resulting in root suffocation.  Prior to using saw dust, test leachate conduc-
tivity for any salt accumulation and leach bags with fresh water if needed. 
Modifications of the fertilizer program are necessary to compensate for
specific media.  Of particular concern is possible manganese toxicity since
manganese can accumulate in wood to toxic levels.  Check the first leaf tissue
samples and adjust manganese applications as needed. 

      Commercial fertilizer mixes are available through horticultural supply
companies.  Follow directions carefully in preparing and dispensing the nutri-
ent solution.  Choose a high quality fertilizer injection pump and system to
minimize fertilizer distribution problems.  The major advantage of bag-
culture, is the reduced management of nutrient solution monitoring, and the
elimination of nutrient circulation, that is required in "closed" hydroponic
systems.

      Hydroponic greenhouse promoters have often failed to present their
product fairly and have created unrealistic expectations.  None of the package
offers of equipment and technical services guarantees success.  Investigate
thoroughly before making financial investments. 

PLANTING

      Greenhouse tomatoes are always grown from transplants.  Use a special
part of the greenhouse to grow these transplants.  This can be a separate
greenhouse, or an area divided off from the main greenhouse where day and
night temperatures can be separately, and accurately maintained.

      Plant the spring crop in early December, so harvest will begin in mid-
March.  For this crop, seed into flats, then transfer seedlings to 4 inch
containers set close together when the first true leaf has formed.  Space the
containers at an 8 x 8 inch spacing two to three weeks later to finish growing
the transplants.  Set plants in their permanent location about mid February.

      Although three and a half to 4 square feet of space per plant is often
used in other areas, about 4 1/2 to 5 square feet per plant would be more
appropriate under western Oregon conditions.  Plants should be trained to a
single stem and supported by strings hanging from overhead wires.   

      Vines are usually removed by the end of July or early August when
outdoor tomatoes become available locally.  From seeding, it takes about 5
months for a spring crop to begin to fruit.

      Plant the fall crop in mid June, and set the plants in their permanent
location about August 1.  It takes about 3 1/2 to 4 months from seeding until
first pick for a fall crop, which should begin in early October, after local
tomatoes are no longer available.  Aim for a production peak around Thanks-
giving, terminating after Christmas or when heating costs and lighting con-
ditions become limiting in December. 

VARIETIES

      Variety selection is made to fit light intensity, fertility and disease
resistance requirements. Check variety descriptions for diseases to which the
variety is resistant, and the season to which it is best adapted.

      Varieties such as Dombito, Belmondo, Jumbo and Trend are best adapted to
areas west of the Cascade Mountains and varieties such as Perfecto and Capello
to areas east of the Cascades.  Caruso, which has sparse foliage is best
adapted to fall cropping, and may produce yellow-shouldered fruit under high
light intensities.  Some varieties may be too vigorous, and can become too
viney under high water and fertilizer programs.  Always test a variety in the
season it will be produced before committing to it.  

      Varieties (in the 6.5-7.5 ounces fruit range) that have been used in the
Pacific Northwest are:  Laura, Capello, Cobra, Trust and Trend (all uniform
ripening); Caruso (semi-green shoulder) Dombito and Jumbo (green shoulder). 
Varieties suggested for tried are:  Belmondo, Boa, Carmello, Contento, Larget-
to and Match (all uniform ripening); also Dombello, Peto 109, Peto 656, Peto
761 (all green-shoulder). In all these varieties, provision for fruit set must
be made (see section on "pollination" below).  

      Parthenocarpic varieties needing little or no mechanical vibration for
pollination: Carpy, Quasar, Barry (these produce 4.0 to 5.0 ounce fruit) which
may be too small for most domestic markets.  

      Tomatoes for the U.S. market must be of a large size.  Many European
varieties are not large enough.  Know your market requirements for fruit
color, size and shape, and the variety fruit characteristics before selecting
the varieties to use.  Fruit under 4 ounces is considered small, 4-6 ounce
fruit is marketable, and fruit over 6 ounces (large) is preferred.

SEED COMPANIES

Asgrow Seed Co., 7000 Portage Rd., Kalamazoo, MI 49001.  616/385-6665; or
      Salinas, CA:  408/424-6905
Bruinsma Seeds b.v. (refer to Asgrow) or POB 1463 High River, Alberta T0L 1B0
      CANADA ph: 403/652-4768
Crop King.  POB 310, Medina, OH 44256 ph: 216/725-5656
DeRuiter Seeds Inc.  POB 20228 Columbus, OH 43220  614/459-1489
Enza Zaden Seeds POB 7, 1600 AA, Enkhuisen, The Netherlands
Petoseed Co. Inc. 1905 Lirio St. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93007-4206. 
      ph: 805/647-1188
Rogers NK, P.O.B. 4727 Boise ID 83711-4727
Stokes Seeds Inc. Buffalo, NY 14240-0548  ph: 416/688-4300
Vilmorin Inc.  6104 Yorkshire Ter. Bethesda, MD 20814
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL

      Accurate temperature, humidity, and carbon dioxide control are impor-
tant.  Environmental control is accomplished in many ways ranging from totally
manual, to sophisticated computer-assisted control.  Computers are also used
to monitor fertilizer and water applications. 

      A major consideration in environmental control is that of providing
temperature and humidity conducive to active movement of water and nutrients
through the plant for optimum growth.  This is done by maintaining a humidity
of between 605 and 80% during daylight hours.  In the Pacific Northwest, light
intensity and duration are limiting factors in winter making the economics of
supplemental lighting an important consideration.  Light intensity is influ-
enced by external factors such as cloud cover and fog and also the quality of
the greenhouse covering and its condition.  Dirt, dust, condensation and
degradation of the covering material itself can seriously reduce yields.

      If a greenhouse is to be kept closed for long periods (several days at a
time) to conserve heat, you should provide suitable carbon dioxide generating
equipment (see below).  Management of irrigation to control increased humidity
and control of increased disease problems also become critical in houses with
reduced ventilation. 



                  Temperature Requirements 

      Temperature requirements for major greenhouse vegetables differ.  In
general, the cooler temperatures are used when light intensities are low.  For
tomatoes, days, 70 to 75 F.; nights, minimum 62-65 F.  Where day temperatures
might exceed 85 to 90 F., cooling equipment is needed to prevent fruit set
failure and to allow proper red color developing in the maturing fruit. 

      Carbon dioxide enrichment

      Carbon dioxide is normally present in the atmosphere at a concentration
of 300 parts per million parts of air.  Carbon dioxide levels in greenhouse
air may be depleted to levels that may limit plant growth, especially in
tightly sealed greenhouses and when ventilation is restricted during daylight
hours.  Addition of carbon dioxide to greenhouses has been demonstrated to im-
prove vegetable yields.  Concentrations of 1,000 ppm. or more in greenhouse
atmospheres have given the best results.  Yield increases of 20% or more have
been reported for tomatoes under certain conditions.  Carbon dioxide generat-
ing and monitoring equipment is readily available.  Flue gasses from certain
types of heaters and fuels, and even liquid carbon dioxide are used.  Investi-
gate the various models and types before purchasing.

Concentrations should be adjusted for light intensity and growth stage as
follows:

      Bright, sunny weather                           1000 ppm
      Cloudy weather                                   750 ppm
      Young plants                                     700 ppm
      During moderate ventilation                      350 ppm


      Light supplementation

      Light intensity during seedling growth is directly related to the number
of days to flower and yield.  Low light intensities delay flowering and reduce
fruit set and total yield.  Under western Oregon winter conditions, light
levels are not adequate for good commercial production.  This is due to both
the shorter days of winter and to frequent cloud cover and fog.  Based on
research from Canada, winter light conditions in western Oregon can be
expected to result in as much as a 20 day delay in flowering and a 50% reduc-
tion in early yield for a crop intended for late winter and spring harvest. 
Supplemental lighting becomes very important during this period and also when
plant populations are increased (and less than 4.5 to 5.0 square feet per
plant is used).  

      Light quality affects plant growth.  Most high pressure sodium lights,
designed to produce high levels of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR),
tend to produce excessively elongated internodes.  To compensate for this
metal halide lights which provide a greater portion of the blue spectrum may
be used.  Light placement and lighting schedules also affect growth and
pollination.  

      Light intensity is a function of lamp wattage and distance from the
plant canopy.  About 650 foot candles at the leaf surface are considered
necessary for normal growth.  With one design, a 1000 watt metal halide lamp
covers approximately 112 square feet when 600 foot candles are desired.  This
translates to approximately 32 fixtures needed for a 30' x 120' greenhouse! 
Since each 1000 watt fixture gives off about 3750 btu. per hour, fuel savings
would also be realized during the time the lights were operating.  Growers
must carefully evaluate supplemental lighting and test its efficacy under
their conditions.

      Although supplemental lighting increases yield under adverse sunlight
conditions when all other production conditions (carbon dioxide, etc.) are
optimal, the increased cost of installation, operation and maintenance of the
lights and price competition from other tomato production areas makes the
economics of supplemental lighting marginal in Oregon.  

FERTILIZER

      Tailor fertilizer programs for specific crops and soil fertility situ-
ations.  Proper fertility is necessary for success.  Plants have different
fertilizer requirements during different stages of their growing cycle. 
Whether you use soil or a soilless system, no single set of recommendations
will apply, so use soil tests to determine initial applications, and monitor
fertility levels by leaf analysis throughout the growing season.  Both soil
tests and leaf analyses are available through Oregon State University Exten-
sion offices. 

      In conventional soil culture, a routine fertilizer program would be the
addition of 0-20-20 fertilizer at 1,000 to 2,000 pounds per acre before the
fall crop, and 650 to 1,000 pounds before the spring crop or, you can supply
phosphorous by applying 46 percent triple super phosphate at 300 to 500 pounds
per acre and potassium by using potassium sulfate at 300 to 400 pounds. 

      Add nitrogen as ammonium nitrate, calcium nitrate, or potassium nitrate
before planting and throughout the season, depending on the amount of organic
matter in the soil.  Feed weekly with solutions of balanced fertilizers. 

      Proper feeding of tomatoes with nitrogen in critical.  Too much nitrogen
when the plants are small will result in soft growth, small flower clusters,
and poor set.  Apply nitrogen in limited quantities before planting, at about
50 pounds per acre, and apply weekly as necessary to maintain adequate
nitrogen levels in the leaves.  Nitrogen levels may be monitored by regular
leaf-petiole analysis.

      Micronutrients are normally provided by the soil's clay and organic
fractions.  Soil tests are necessary to determine which if any micronutrients
must be added.

      In soilless culture, all major and micro-nutrients must be added, and
kept in balance.  A number of soilless culture systems are available.  These
are variations of the "closed" or "open" systems described earlier.  Fertiliz-
er proportioners are used to accurately inject the proper amount of nutrient
concentrate into the water stream used for irrigating the plants.  

      Totally soluble hydroponic fertilizer mixtures are available from
regional horticultural supply houses.  Follow manufacturer's recommendations
carefully and completely as outlined specifically for tomatoes.  Improper
alterations of formulas or instructions for their use, can result in serious
production problems.

      Most commonly at least two stock tanks are needed to prevent insoluble
precipitates from forming when the nutrients are mixed and injected.  One
stock tank is usually used to mix potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate and iron
chelate.  The other contains the phosphorous source, magnesium sulfate,
potassium chloride and the rest of the micronutrients.  This is done to
prevent the formation of insoluble precipitates that most commonly occur from
the mixing of calcium nitrate and phosphorous materials.  

      The use of more expensive "technical grade" fertilizer salts eliminates
sludges from forming.  Where "fertilizer grade" materials are used, sludges
will form in the potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate tank due to insoluble
additives used in these fertilizers to prevent caking and dust.

      For a check on crop progress leaf samples should be taken at regular
intervals beginning at about the time the third cluster begins to set.  Sample
the whole leaf with petiole, choosing the newest fully expanded leaf below the
last open flower cluster.  Sufficiency leaf analysis ranges for newest fully-
expanded, dried whole leaves are*:

      Macronutrients (percent)             Micronutrients (parts per million)
Prior to fruiting    During fruiting      Prior to fruiting    During fruiting

   N:  4.0-5.0              3.5-4.0           Fe: 50-200              50-200
   P:  0.5-0.8              0.4-0.6           Zn: 25-60                25-60
   K:  3.5-4.5              2.8-4.0           Mn: 50-125              50-125
   Ca: 0.9-1.8              1.0-2.0           Cu:  8-20                 8-20
   Mg: 0.5-0.8              0.4-1.0           B:  35-60                35-60
   S:  0.4-0.8              0.4-0.8           Mo:  1-5                   1-5

      Toxic levels for B, Mn, and Zn are reported as 150, 500 and 300
      ppm respectively*.

      * Taken from J.M. Gerber 1985. Plant growth and nutrient formulas.
      pp.58-69. In A.J. Savage (ed.). Hydroponics Worldwide: State of
      the art in soilless crop porduction. Int'l Ctr. for Special
      Studies, Honolulu, Hawaii).

MULCHING

      If mulches are used, apply to the soil when tomatoes are about two feet
high.  Straw mulch is most common, used at about 200 bales per acre.  The
mulch reduces evaporation of water from the soil and prevents compaction of
the surface.  White (reflective) plastic mulches are recommended to control
weeds, conserve moisture, reduce humidity, and improve light conditions.



WATERING

      Maintain an adequate supply of water to plant roots.  Excess water re-
duces soil aeration.  Young plants put in the greenhouse in mid-winter May
need to be watered only once every 10 to 14 days.  The same plants in mid-
summer may need water every two or three days in ground beds.  A fall crop
would need a total of about 15 to 18 inches; a spring crop may need 20 to 25
inches of water.

      With bag culture, mature plants may need to be watered several times a
day.  One to 3 quarts per plant per day may be needed depending on growth
stage and plant size.  

POLLINATION

      Tomatoes are self pollinating under open field conditions.  Pollen sheds
and fertilization occurs as a function of normal air movement and its agi-
tation of the plants and flowers.  Under greenhouse conditions, flowers need
to be agitated mechanically, or fruit needs to be set using plant chemical
hormones that are sprayed on flower clusters on a regular basis.  

      A few new varieties have been developed that are parthenocarpic (need no
pollination, and are seedless).  These generally have small to medium size
fruit and have not been tested adequately in the Pacific Northwest (see
section on "varieties" above).  

      Pollination by mechanical vibration is recommended with the large
fruited U.S. and European varieties.  This is accomplished using a hand
operated electric vibrator available from horticultural supply companies. 
These vibrators operate on 110 volt or battery power.  The battery powered
models use a 6 or 12 volt motorcycle battery.  Units using flashlight batter-
ies have insufficient action for best pollination.  Many other methods have
been tried or tested.  None have been as good. 

      Timing is important when using mechanical vibrators to set fruit. 
Pollen sheds most readily when temperature is at its peak, and relative
humidity lowest on a given day.  The optimum time for that is between 11 a.m.
and 3 p.m. during winter and early spring.  Each flower cluster needs to be
vibrated every day, as long as flowers are still opening in that cluster, to
accomplish pollination of the flowers that open on that day.

      Note:  Special bees (bumble bees) are now being used for pollination. 
      These bees mechanically agitate tomato flower clusters to acquire pollen
      and thus accomplish pollination.  Currently, the high cost of obtaining
      these bees has limited them to use in very large interconnected green-
      house ranges.  The bees would have to be obtained from special bee
      keepers.  Research is also underway at Oregon State University to test
      the efficacy of leaf-cutter bees for mechanically agitating tomato
      flower clusters for pollination.
 
      Chemical fruit set is commonly used in European greenhouse tomato pro-
duction on varieties that have been specifically developed to produce high
quality fruit with this method.  Most large fruited varieties used in the U.S.
will develop hollow, soft and misshapen fruit with the use of chemical setting
agents, therefore chemical fruit setting is not recommended.

PRUNING AND TRAINING 

      Auxiliary branches must be pruned as the plant is trained to a single
stem, supported by string to an overhead wire.  In rare occasions, especially
when grafted plants are used, plants may be trained in a double stem configu-
ration.

      With varieties that tend to produce small fruit, cluster pruning is used
to increase fruit size, and limit the number of fruit per cluster.  Generally,
3-4 fruit per cluster are allowed to develop with these varieties.

      To reduce the likelihood of disease spread (especially Tobacco Mosaic
Virus), exercise careful sanitary procedures.  Workers should use disposable
gloves, disposing them, and sanitizing pruning instruments at the end of each
row.  No tobacco products should be allowed in the greenhouse, and users of
such products must not handle TMV susceptible tomato varieties. 

PEST CONTROL

      Proper control of plant disease is critical in greenhouse environments,
where high temperatures and humidity are ideal for diseases to develop. 
Insect and nematode infestations can also become rampant under confined
greenhouse conditions. 

      You can control most fungus and virus diseases with resistant varieties,
fungicides and proper sanitation and sterilization of soils, growth media, and
equipment.  The most serious fungus diseases on tomatoes are leaf mold
(Cladosporium), early blight (Alternaria), leaf spot (Septoria), gray mold
(Botrytis), and the wilt diseases (Fusarium and Verticillium). 

      Tobacco mosaic virus resistant varieties are available.  When suscepti-
ble varieties are grown, this virus disease can be serious and several other
virus diseases may occur.  Resistant varieties, proper sanitation to reduce
spread by workers, soil sterilization, and control of insect vectors are some
of the methods of control. 

      Early control of white fly, aphid, and spider mite infestation is im-
portant.  Several biological agents and chemicals are available to control
these pests. 

      Nematodes and several fungus diseases may become a problem in either
soil or hydroponic culture.  Sterilization of soil or hydroponic media is used
as a preventative measure.  

      Control of pests in greenhouse production is different from that used in
open field production and requires pesticide lables and uses specifically for
greenhouses.  Current recommendations on pesticides are available from your
county Extension agent or pesticide dealer.  Always follow label instructions
and safety precautions precisely. 

NON-PATHOGENIC FRUIT DISORDERS

      Blossom-End Rot:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  Caused by calcium
imbalance or deficiency during critical stage of fruit differentiation and
expansion, usually induced by water stress.

      Gray-Wall:  Linked to high plant vigor, associated with high rates of
nitrogen fertilization with high soil moisture and low temperature.  In some
cases certain bacteria, fungi and/or tobacco mosaic virus are thought to be
involved in gray wall.  Often associated with blotchy ripening (see below).

      Blotchy Ripening:  Promoted by low potassium levels in the fruit, high
soil moisture and humidity and fluctuating temperatures during fruit ripening
(above 85 F.) and low sunlight levels, or shaded areas in the plant canopy. 
Aggravated by compacted soils.  

      Solar yellowing:  This problem occurs most commonly on fruit ripening in
late May and June when days are longest, sunlight is most intense, and
temperatures exceed 85 F.  Under such conditions, lycopene (the red pigment in
tomato) fails to develop normally in some varieties, leaving only the carotene
(yellow) pigment to show at the shoulder or, with green-shoulder type toma-
toes, where the dark green portion was.  Even with temperatures under 85 F.
the surface temperature of exposed fruit, especially those with dark green
shoulders can become high enough to inhibit normal red color development.  In
other parts of the day or night, when temperatures do not exceed 85 F. some
red color may develop, resulting in an orange, rather than a yellow abnormali-
ty. To reduce this problem, protect fruit surfaces from short-wave solar
radiation by altering pruning practice in March and April by allowing two
leaves to form on axillary branches rather than removing the axillary branch-
es. The use of non-phytotoxic white wash will also help if applied when fruit
are at the mature green stage.  The white wash will have to be removed before
the fruit is marketed. 

      Roughness and scars:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  associated
with large fruit.  Particularly severe when young plants are exposed to cool
temperatures, and night temperatures below 50 F. when flower clusters are
differentiating.

      Fruit cracks:  Varieties differ in susceptibility.  Promoted by fluctua-
tions in soil moisture and temperature.  Often seen when varieties developed
for hot, arid climates are subjected to humid, wet conditions.

HARVESTING HANDLING AND STORAGE

      Yields from a two-crops-per-year system would be about 8 pounds of fruit
per plant from the fall crop, assuming a 2 to 3 month harvest period ending in
late December (0.8 lbs/plant/week is considered very good).  Approximately
12-15 pounds of fruit per plant may be realized from the spring crop assuming
a 4 month harvest period ending just after the July 4th holiday.

      Yield from a single-crop-per-year system, where harvest begins about mid
October and ends in July the following year, could produce a total of about
25-27 lbs./plant (based on 0.5-0.75 lbs./plant/week).  The lower output per
week per plant shown is due to adverse winter climatic conditions (cloudiness
and high humidity) generally experienced west of the Cascade mountains.

      Fruit is harvested when mature green if it is to be held before market-
ing.  Mature green fruit have well developed internal gel, and may have inter-
nal tissues that are beginning to turn red.  Vine ripe fruit ranges from fruit
just turning red to fully ripened, depending on market requirement.  When har-
vesting and handling, avoid bruising fruit.

      The USDA Grade Standards for Fresh Tomatoes recognize 6 official color
designations:
      1)  Green - surface of the tomato is completely green;
      2)  Breakers - a definite break in color from green to tannish-yellow,
pink or red on no more than 10% of the surface;
      3)  Turning- more than 10% but less than 30% of the surface, in the
aggregate, shows change as in 2) above;
      4)  Pink- more than 30% but less than 60% of aggregate surface shows
pink or red color;
      5)  Light Red - more than 60% of aggregate surface is reddish pink or
red provided that not more than 90 % is red;
      6)  Red- more tan 90% of surface in the aggregate show red color.

      STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):

      Store mature-green tomatoes at 55 to 70 F; ripe fruit at 45 to 50 F and
a relative humidity of 90 to 95%.

      Mature-green tomatoes cannot be successfully stored at temperatures that
greatly delay ripening.  Tomatoes held for 2 weeks or longer at 55 F may
develop abnormal amount of decay and may fail to develop a deep red color. 
The optimum temperatures for ripening mature-green tomatoes range from 65 to
70 F.  Tomatoes will not ripen normally at temperatures above 80 F.  A
temperature range of 57 to 61 f is probably most desirable for slowing
ripening without increasing decay problems.  At these temperatures the more
mature fruit within the mature-green range will ripen enough to be packaged
for retailing in 7 to 14 days.

      Fruit held below 50 F become susceptible to alternaria decay during
subsequent ripening.  Increased decay during ripening occurs after 6 days'
exposure at 32 or 9 days at 40 F.  Mature-green tomatoes may also be damaged
by low temperatures in the field.  A high percentage of tomatoes exposed to
temperatures below 50 F for a week before harvest would probably develop
alternaria rot even at recommended storage temperatures.  Some loss due to
chilling can be expected in fall-grown tomatoes exposed for over 95 hours to
temperatures below 60 F during the week before harvest.  Severity of chilling
increases with increases in exposure time, so 135 hours exposure to below 60 F
may result in heavy losses.

      Chilling periods for fruit in storage and during transit, have a cumula-
tive effect.  Thus, fruit chilled for only a short period in storage can
become very susceptible to decay when held for only a short period at chilling
temperature during marketing.  Tomatoes should be kept out of cold, wet rooms
because in addition to potential development of chilling injury, extended
refrigeration damages the ability of fruit to develop desirable fresh tomato
flavor.

      Semi-ripe tomatoes with 60 to 90% color can be held up to a week at 50
F.  If held longer, they will probably not have a normal shelf life during
retailing.  Riper tomatoes will tolerate lower temperatures.  For example,
"firm-ripe" tomatoes can be held a few days at 45 to 50.  Long holding of
ripened tomatoes at low temperatures (40 and below) results in loss of color,
shelf life, and firmness.

      When it is necessary to hold fully-ripe tomatoes for the longest
possible time before their immediate consumption upon removal from storage, as
for example, for ship-board or overseas use, they can be held at 32 to 35 F.
for up to 3 weeks.  Such tomatoes, although acceptable, would not be of high
quality and would have little if any shelf life remaining.

      Fully ripe:  When it is necessary to hold fully ripe tomatoes for the
longest possible time before their immediate consumption upon removal from
storage, as for example, for ship-board or overseas use, they can be held at
32 to 35 F for up to 3 weeks.  Such tomatoes, although acceptable, would not
be of high quality and would have little if any shelf life remaining.  Mature-
green, turning, or pink tomatoes should be ripened before storing at such low
temperatures.

      A storage temperature of 50 to 55 F is recommended for semi-ripe to
fully ripe greenhouse-grown tomatoes.  Ripening of less mature tomatoes at 70
F is recommended before storage at 50 to 55 F.

      Research showed that an atmosphere with 3% oxygen and 97% nitrogen
extended the life of mature-green tomatoes up to 6 weeks at 55 F and that the
flavor of the ripened fruit had no off-flavor and was acceptable to the taste
panel.  A 1% or lower oxygen level can cause off-flavor.  Increased carbon
dioxide levels provide no benefit; in fact, levels of 3 to 5% have been
reported to cause injury at 55 F.          

PACKAGING

      One function of post-harvest handling in packing houses today is the
washing, brushing and cleaning of produce to remove any pesticide residues
that may be on the fruit.  Tomatoes lend themselves well to such procedures.  

      Package tomatoes by size in 8-10 pound, single layer cartons, or 20 lbs.
double layers.  Use only containers intended for greenhouse-produced fruit,
and so designated.  In general only top grade fruit is marketed.  Greenhouse
tomato fruit is usually individually differentiated with stick-on lables. 
Misshapen and defective fruit should be removed from vines as soon as it is so
recognized.

                  PEST CONTROL FOR GREENHOUSE TOMATO PRODUCTION

                            USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


PEST CONTROL

     Proper control of plant disease is critical in greenhouse environments,
where high temperatures and humidity are ideal for diseases to develop. 
Insect and nematode infestations, too, can become rampant under the confined
greenhouse conditions. 

     You can control most fungus and virus diseases with fungicides and proper
sanitation and sterilization of soils, growth media, and equipment.  The most
serious fungus disease on tomatoes are leaf mold (Cladosporium), early blight
(Alternaria), leaf spot (Septoria), gray mold (Botrytis), and the wilt
diseases (Fusarium and Verticillium). 

     Tobacco mosaic virus can be serious and several other virus diseases may
occur.  Proper sanitation to reduce spread by workers, soil sterilization, and
control of insect vectors are some of the methods of control. 

     Powdery mildew (Erysiphe) is a common fungus disease on cucumbers;
chemical controls are available.  Several virus diseases also affect cucum-
bers. 

     Bottom rot (Sclerotinia) is a troublesome lettuce disease which can be
difficult to control.  Few other diseases are troublesome in greenhouse
lettuce. 

     Early control of white fly, aphid, and spider mite infestation is im-
portant.  Several chemicals are available to control these pests. 

     Nematodes may become a problem in either soil or hydroponic culture. 
Sterilization of soil or hydroponic media is used as a preventative measure. 
Current recommendations on pesticides are available from your county Extension
agent.  Always follow label instructions and safety precautions precisely. 







     -----------------------------------------------------------------
     -----------------------------------------------------------------
     This  information  was prepared by the  Oregon  State  University 
     Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well 
     as  other  vegetable  production  guidelines  from  public insti-
     tutions in the U.S. and Canada.  These guidelines are intended as
     a  general  guide  for  Oregon  commercial  vegetable  producers. 
     Address  comments or questions to your County Extension Agent  or 
     Dr.  N.S.  Mansour,  Department  of  Horticulture,  Oregon  State 
     University, Corvallis, OR 9733l 
     -----------------------------------------------------------------
     -----------------------------------------------------------------   


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:53 EST 1995
Article: 56521 of rec.gardens
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From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Lettuce
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:09:25 -0800
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                                    LETTUCE
                                Lactuca sativa                                 

VARIETIES

Crisphead types (approximately 60-75 days when direct seeded):
            
       Transplant - Summertime, Ithaca,  Fame, Salinas; PennLake (earliest
plantings only).  New, for trial when downy mildew is expected:  Target, Alpha
(resistant to downy mildew pathotypes I and III), and Bullseye, Top Gun,
Patriot, Warrior (all tolerant to downy mildew pathotypes I, II and III).

      Direct Seeding - For harvest periods (before July 15 and after September
1) and when downy mildew can be a problem:  Fame, Salinas, Calmar, Calmaria. 
New, for trial when downy mildew is expected:  Target, Alpha (resistant to
downy mildew pathotypes I and III), and Bullseye, Top Gun, Patriot, Warrior
(all tolerant to downy mildew pathotypes I, II and III).

      for trial: Pablo (a red-tinged crisphead).

      For harvest between July 15 and Sep. 1:  Summertime, Ithaca (heat
tolerant, both need special attention to irrigation and fertility (130-150
lbs. N/A) to produce necessary size.

      For Big Vein infected fields where Salinas would be used, use: Pacific. 
All these lines may be sensitive to heat stress, and unsuited for production
from July 15 to Sept 1.  Red crisphead: Etna.

Batavian or French crisp types (approximately 50-60 days), green ("inter-
mediate" between butterhead and crisphead):  Canasta, Nevada (resistant to
downy mildew strains 1,2,3,4). 
      French crisp (Batavian) types, red:  Sierra, Musca.  

Bibb types, green (approximately 60 days):  Buttercrunch, Summer Bibb, Salad
Bibb, Salina; Little Gem (resistant to downy mildew strains 1,2,3,4). 
Miniature bibb types:  Vasco, Tom Thumb.

Butterhead types (approximately 60 days):  Balisto (dark green, slow bolting,
BWY virus resistant); Vista and Divina (both resistant to downy mildew strains
1,2,3,4); Red Boston, Gento, Butter King, Dark Green Boston, White Boston;
Tania and Prima (downy mildew resistant), Citation, Augusta, Nancy, Little
Gem.
      Butterhead types, red: Sangria (resistant to downy mildew strains
1,2,3,4); Red Boston.

Leaf types, green (approximately 50-60 days):  Slobolt (non-bolting, BWY virus
resistant), Waldmann's Green (dark green, slow bolting), Loriol (light green,
slow bolting); Salad Bowl, Green Ice, Royal Green, Grand Rapids. 
      Leaf types, red:  Garnet, Prize Head, RedPrize and New Red Fire (all are
slow-bolting and BWY virus resistant); Deep Red, Red Sails.  

Oak Leaf types (approximately 50-60 days), green:  Krizet (bolting and BWY
virus resistant).
      Oak Leaf types, red:  Raisa (dark red), Brunia (both Raisa and Brunia
are resistant to bolting and BWY virus); Red Salad Bowl. 

Cos (Romaine) types (approximately 65 days), green:  Paris Island Cos (bolting
resistant, vigorous growth), Green Towers, Paris White, Valmaine (downy mildew
resistant).  For Trial:  Cosmo, Alpi.  
      Cos (Romaine) types, red:  Majestic Red (slow bolting and resis-
tant to BWY virus), Feria.

Stem Lettuce (approximately 85 days): Celtuce (for specialty Oreintal mar-
kets).

SEED COMPANIES

Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Brinker Orsetti Seed Co., 2339 A Technology Parkway, Hollister CA 95023-2513.
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Liberty Seed Co. POB 806, New Philadelphia OH 44663
Nunhems Zaden, Canners Seed Corp.  221 E. Main St., Lewisville, ID 83431
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93304
Rijk Zwaan, Inc. 35 Harmony Rd.  Warren, NJ 07060
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Vilmorin Inc.  POB 707, Empire, CA 95319
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

SOIL

      Sandy peats and mucks, deep black sandy loams and loams are the most
suitable types of soil.  Good moisture-holding capacity with good drainage is
important especially for heading types.  Soils that compact easily, or are
compacted can adversely affect head lettuce growth.  For successful head
lettuce production, soils should be managed to reduce compaction as much as
possible.

SOIL TEMPERATURE

      Germination occurs at as low as 40 F and may not occur at temperatures
of 90 F and over unless irrigation is used to cool the soil.  Crop growth is
usually good between 61 and 65 F. 

SEED

      Lettuce seed numbers approximately 400,000 per pound.  Use only mosaic-
indexed seed from a reliable seed source.

      For direct field seeding l/4 to l/2 lb/acre is required when a precision
seeder is used with unpelleted seed.  Pelleting greatly improves precision
planting and reduces thinning costs.  Advances in priming and coatings can
improve stand establishment under adverse conditions.  Consult your seed
dealer about the availability of primed seed.

SEED TREATMENT

      Use only fungicide treated seed.  Seed is available pelletized with
various types of coatings.  Pelletized seeds are available in which the seed
is vigorized, or conditioned, so that it germinates rapidly even under high
temperatures.  Pelletizing facilitates precision seeding in the field.  The
lighter coatings are preferred.  

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  The
following recommendations are general guidelines.

      For the early crop, band 2 inches to the side and 2 inches below the
planting depth the following:

      Nitrogen: 75-100 (N) lb/acre for heading types developed for California
production.  Use l50-l75 lb/A for Summertime and Ithaca grown on mineral
soils, and for leaf lettuces planted at 6-9 inches in-row spacings.
      Phosphate: 150-200 (P2 O5) lb/acre.

      Potash: 60-200 (K2 O) lb/acre 

      pH: Add lime if below 6.0

      Slightly less nitrogen and phosphorus is required for the later plant-
ings of June and early July.

PRECISION SEEDING

      Head lettuce is most commonly direct seeded in the field.  Some transp-
lanting with "leaf" types is again becomming popular.

      Present recommendations are to use coated seed.  A single coated seed
placed every 2 to 3 in., or two seeds spaced 1 in. apart every 12 inches, has
worked very well.  Direct-seeded plants should be thinned when two or three
true leaves have formed.  Delaying thinning can result in plants that are left
to be disturbed or damaged, resulting in uneven harvest.

      Raised beds are ideal for lettuce production.  They help prevent damage
from soil compaction and flooding.  This is especially important for the
varieties Summertime and Ithaca.  Raised beds also improve air flow around the
plants resulting in reduced disease incidence.


TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION AND TRANSPLANTING

      For transplant production, one-quarter of a pound of seed will supply
sufficient seedlings to transplant one acre. 

      The earliest seedings are started in flats in greenhouses in early Feb-
ruary.  The seedlings are then transferred into other flats or modular trays
allowing 1-1 1/2 square inches per plant and are planted out as soon as the
fields can be prepared.  Transplants put out early will benefit from a starter
solution high in phosphate.  Spacing between rows is 14-18 in. with 11- 13 in.
between plants.  

IRRIGATION

      Lettuce requires frequent irrigations.  As many as 8-10 irrigations and
10-12 inches of water per acre may be necessary depending on seasonal varia-
tion, variety and planting date.  

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.

HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE 

      Yields of crisphead lettuce are approximately 600-800 cartons per acre,
bibb and leaf lettuce approximately 800-1200 cartons per acre and romain
approximately 900-1000 cartons per acre (note container sizes and weights
under PACKAGING, below). 

      Harvest is done by hand, and the crop packed into cartons in the field. 
Keep the leafy items clean, and free of soil and mud.  A stronger bitter taste
and toughness develops if harvest is delayed or if crop is over- mature, and
then the product becomes unmarketable.  Cool product as quickly as possible
using vacuum cooling.

      Lettuce is extremely perishable and needs to be handled delicately, and
marketed rapidly.  Lettuce may be held temporarily at 32 F and 90-95% relative
humidity for several days.

      Head lettuce is harvested when the heads are of good size (about 2
lbs.), well formed and solid.  If the plants are wet with rain or dew the
leaves are more brittle and break more easily.  Leave 3 undamaged wrapper
leaves on each head.  Put 24 heads in rigid cardboard containers in the field
and avoid bruising.  Grade heads according to size, pack in cartons (vacuum
cooling is mandatory) for long shipments.  Leaf, butterhead and cos types are
cut, trimmed and tied into compact bundles before placing in cartons.

      STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Hold lettuce at 32 F and 98 to 100 % relative humidity.  Lettuce should
be precooled to 34 F soon after harvest and stored at 32F and 98 to 100 %
relative humidity for retention of quality and shelf life.  Precooling is
commonly done by vacuum cooling because it is more effective and rapid that
hydrocooling.  Also, since most head lettuce is field packed in corrugated
cartons, vacuum cooling is more suitable.  For vacuum cooling, containers and
film wraps should be perforated  or readily permeable to water vapor.  To aid
vacuum cooling, clean water is sprinkled on the heads of lettuce prior to
carton closure if they are dry and warmer than 75 F.  Thorough precooling is
essential because mechanically refrigerated rail cars or trucks do not have
enough cooling capacity to cool warm lettuce during transit.

      Lettuce is highly perishable and deteriorates rapidly with increasing
temperature.  The respiration rate increases  greatly storage life decreases
concomitantly as the storage temperature increases over the temperature range
from 32 to 75 F.  Leaf lettuce respires at about twice the rate of head
lettuce.  At 32 F,  head lettuce can be held in good condition for 2 to 3
weeks, the time period depending on maturity, quality, and handling condition
of the lettuce at harvest.  The storage life at 38 F is only about half at
that at 32 F.

      Lettuce is easily damaged by freezing, so all parts of the storage room
must be kept above the highest freezing point of lettuce (31.6 F).

      Controlled atmosphere is of limited benefit to the storage quality of
lettuce.  Low oxygen levels of 1 to 8 % can reduce russet spotting in sus-
ceptible lots.  A 3 percent oxygen and 1.5 % carbon dioxide atmosphere
maintains the appearance of lettuce and inhibits pink rib and butt discolo-
ration better than air, but the effect is not noticeable after the lettuce is
held at 50 F  in air for 5 days.  Oxygen below 1 % is injurious, as is carbon
dioxide above 2.5 percent.  High carbon dioxide levels cause brown stain,
which may develop after lettuce is transferred to 50 F air.  Brown stain
caused by high carbon dioxide is intensified when oxygen is reduced to 2 to 3
%, but the degree differs with cultivar.  If lettuce needs to be in transit
over-seas for a month, an atmosphere of 2 % carbon dioxide and 3 % oxygen is
recommended, because the reduction in decay achieved by 2 % carbon dioxide
outweighs the danger of injury.

      Lettuce should be held at high relative humidity, 98 to 100%.  Film
liners or individual polyethylene head wraps are desirable for attaining high
relative humidity; however they should be perforated or be permeable to
maintain a non-injurious atmosphere and to avoid 100 % relative humidity on
removal from storage.  Romaine and leaf lettuce appear to tolerate a slightly
higher carbon dioxide level when packaged than head lettuce.

      Russet spotting, which occasionally causes serious losses, is usually
not a problem at temperatures below 36 F.  Lettuce should not be stored with
apples, pears, cantaloupes, or other products that give off ethylene, as this
gas increases russet spotting.  Hard heads are more susceptible to this
disorder than firm lettuce.  Storage in a low-oxygen atmosphere (1 to 8%) is
very effective in controlling russet spotting.

      soft rot, the most serious disease of lettuce, often starts on bruised
leaves, but it is much less serious at 32 F than at higher temperatures. 
Tipburn is also a major market disease of lettuce.  It is of field origin, but
occasionally increases in severity after harvest.

PACKAGING

      All packaging is done prior to vacuum cooling.  Iceberg or head lettuce
may be closely trimmed and wrapped in film.  Polyethylene films are most
common but new PVC films maintain freshness longer.  PVC films are also easier
to wrap and result in a neater wrapping.

      Iceberg lettuce: commonly packaged in 43-48 lb., 24 count, cartons.
      Boston lettuce: commonly packaged in 20 lb. 1-1/9 bushel wirebound
crates.  
      Romaine lettuce: commonly packaged in 23 lb. l-l/9 bushel wirebound
crates or 24 count cartons.
      Leaf lettuce: commonly packaged in 20-25 lb., cartons and wirebound
crates, 24 count; or, 13 lb. cartons. 
      Bibb lettuce: commonly packaged in 10 lb. cartons.
      Greenhouse lettuce: commonly packaged in 10 lb. wood baskets or cartons.

                            PEST CONTROL FOR LETTUCE

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY

Direct-seeded lettuce requires a couple of cultivations and a hand        
thinning/weeding, whereas transplanted lettuce matures in 45 days following 1  
or 2 cultivations with a minor hand weeding.  
______________________________________________________________________________

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.  Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
    maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures 
    and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic..

2.  Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed 
    will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.  Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the 
    field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed 
    weeds.

Weed Treatment           Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A    
  Gramoxone Extra      
  (see remarks)      

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate              Consult Labels          
  Roundup               
  Roundup RT            
  (E. Washington and    
  Idaho only)             
  or Honcho +            
  nonionic              
  surfactant                

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      preparation or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label
      for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species con-
      trolled.  Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual       
      weeds, while perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a
      surfactant or ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are
      stressed.  Do not apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-   
      labeled crops within 12 months following application. (Inhibits produc-
      tion of 3 amino acids and protein synthesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________



PREPLANT, PREEMERGENCE, AND POSTEMERGENCE 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
benefin                 1.1 to 1.5 lb ai/A 
  Balan            
  (direct seeded lettuce only)                 

      Apply from 10 weeks to immediately before planting and incorporate
      within 8 hours by cross-disking or by using a PTO rotary tiller.   May
      be applied through center pivot and lateral move irrigation systems. 
      Spray only once and avoid overlapping.  Consult label for planting
      sensitive crops within 10 to 12 months.  Control of many broadleaf weeds
      is weak.  (Inhibits mitosis, both in shoots and roots).
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide               5 to 6 lb ai/A  
  Prefar                                       

      Apply preplant and incorporate in top 1 to 2 inches of soil by cross-
      disking or using a PTO rotary tiller.  Also may be applied preemergence
      soon after planting before crop and weeds begin germination and activat-
      ed with 1 inch overhead moisture.  Sometimes the first flush of weeds
      must be controlled with cultivation before herbicide begins to control
      grass.  Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 18 months.  Do
      not apply more than 1 time per year.  Primarily a grass herbicide.
      (Inhibits roots of seedlings).        
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
pronamide               1.0 to 2 lb ai/A         
  Kerb                                        
  (direct-seeded and                          
  transplant lettuce,
  endive and escarole)                      

      Registration subject to cancellation; use existing supplies before label
      is withdrawn.  Restricted use pesticide. Apply preplant and incorporate
      thoroughly by mixing in top 2 to 3 inches of soil or apply preemergence
      at or soon after planting and activate with surface moisture to reduce
      loss of herbicide. Consult label for partial list of sensitive varieties
      and for planting sensitive crops  within 12 months.  Do not apply within
      35 days of harvest.  Primarily a grass herbicide.  (Inhibits mitosis).   
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
cycloate                          2 to 3 lb ai/A           
  Ro-Neet                                       

      In Washington, a special local needs (SLN WA-930019) is available. 
      Apply preplant to soil dry enough for thorough mixing and incorporate 2
      to 3 inches deep immediately by cross-disking or using a rotary tiller. 
      Use on mineral soils only.  Seed may be planted immediately.  (Inhibits
      shoot growth).
------------------------------------------------------------------------

phenmedipham                                         0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A       
  Spin-Aid                                      

      Apply any time when lettuce are past 4-6 leaf stage and before weeds are
      at the 2-leaf stage.  Avoid applications when weather conditions may
      change rapidly from cool and cloudy to warm and sunny days, or when
      lettuce are stressed from insect, disease, disease, or cultivation in-
      jury. Tip burn or temporary growth retardation and chlorosis may occur,
      although plants usually recover within 10 days.  Do not apply within 60
      days of harvest. Avoid diluting herbicide more than one quart/7 g water
      in spray tank as this can cause precipitation of the chemical.  (Inhib-
its photosynthesis).  
------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim              0.28 lb ai/A   
Poast             

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.  Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
      leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
      or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resistant
      grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas quack-
      grass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 15 days of spinach and
      leaf lettuce harvest or 30 days for head lettuce, nor exceed 3 pints/A
      per season.  Avoid applications when temperatures exceed 90 F or when
      relative humidity exceeds 60%.  (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell
      membranes, and new growth.) 
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                  Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, primarily                           Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb           
Green peach aphid                           (Head lettuce only)             
 Myzus persicae 
                                            Phosdrin - 0.25 to 0.5 lb
Yellowish, pink to pale green                                               
plant lice.                                 diazinon - 0.5 lb               
                                                                            
                                            malathion - 1 to 2 lb        
                                                                            
                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb       
                                                                            
                                            dimethoate - 0.25 lb            
                                                                            
                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 2 lb           

                                            endosulfan - 0.75 to 1 lb 
                                            (Remove outside leaves of       
                                            head lettuce at harvest)        
                                                                            
                                            Orthene - 0.5 to 1.0 lb         
                                            (Crisp head lettuce only)       

                                            diatect - 1 to 3 lb
                                            formulation

                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lettuce root aphid                          Di-Syston - 1 to 2 lb
Pemphigus bursarius

Grayish-green mealy aphids on roots.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Loopers, including                          methoxychlor - 1 to 2.25 lb     
Alfalfa looper                                                  
 Autographa californica                     Phosdrin - 0.5 to 1 lb
                                                                       
Worms are slender, dark olive               Bacillus thuringiensis     
green with paler head. They're                1 to 2 qt. Use a spreader-
marked with three dark stripes                 sticker to enhance control.
and move in a looping manner.                 0.25 to 0.75 lb
Bacillus thuringiensis may be                  Apply at egg hatch.  
combined with malathion for                    Thorough underleaf coverage
both worm and aphid control.                   essential for best results.
Check label for registered uses                 
of the new, improved strains of             Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb          
B. thuringiensis. 
                                            endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb 
                                            (Remove outside leaves of head
                                            lettuce at harvest)           
                                                                          
                                            malathion - 2.0 lb            
                                                                          
                                            permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb   
                                            (Head lettuce only)           
                                                                          
                                            Orthene 75S - 0.5 to 1 lb 
                                            - crisp head lettuce only.

                                            Cypermethrin - 0.025 to 0.10 lb
                                            (Cymbush, Ammo).  Head lettuce
                                            only. Do not apply more than 0.6   
                                            lb ai per acre per crop season.    
                                                  
                                            diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation
                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt

                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms and Armyworms                      Orthene - 1.0 lb  Use only for
 Several species                             Armyworm on crisp head lettuce.
                                                          
Red, brown, green worms.  Feed              trichlorfon - 1 lb
on stems and leaves.  Usually                                   
in soil during the day.                     carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb               
                                                                              
                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
                                            Beet armyworm only.      

                                            Phosdrin - 0.5 to 1 lb           
                                            Climbing cutworms only. 
                                                                          
                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb    
                                            Use only for Beet Armyworm
                                            on head lettuce.

                                            Bacillus thuringiensis
                                            1 to 2 qt

                                            Cypermethrin - 0.025 to 0.10 lb
                                              (Cymbush, Ammo). Head lettuce
                                              only. Do not apply more than 
                                              0.6 lb ai per acre per crop   
                                              season.

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.75 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Slugs                                       Metaldehyde baits.  
Several species                            
                                           
Land mollusks that feed on                  
foliage and leave slime trails.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cucumber beetles,                           diazinon - 0.25 to 0.375 lb   
including Western spotted                                                 
cucumber beetle                             carbaryl - 1 lb               
 Diabrotica undecimpunctata
Yellowish-green, black-spotted              Cypermethrin - 0.025 to 0.10 lb
beetle common to western Oregon.
Attack seedlings and feed on foliage.       Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
Limonius spp.                                                      
                                            Telone II - preplant   
Brown, jointed larvae of click
beetles, kill young plants,                 Telone C-17 - preplant 
weaken older ones.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

LETTUCE -- ANTHRACNOSE

Cause: Marssonina panattoniana, a fungus. This disease overwinters on crop
refuse.

Symptoms: Small, dead, brown spots appear on the leaves. The spots' centers
often fall out leaving black-margined, shothole spots. The spots progress from
the older leaves to the inner younger leaves. The outer leaves often break off
and blow away with the wind. The disease is important only during prolonged
periods of wet weather when it may cause heavy losses.

Control:

1.  Sanitary measures taken to reduce crop refuse assist in control.  Deep
plowing and cultivating under lettuce parts are suggested.  When grown in
greenhouses, soil should be sterilized by steam if available.

2.  Practice crop rotation.

3.  If only a small number of infections occur, remove affected plants as soon
as spots are visible together with any old dead leaves.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- ASTER YELLOWS

Cause: A mycoplasmalike organism (MLO) virus transmitted by several leafhop-
pers.

Symptoms: The first symptoms of aster yellows are blanching and chlorosis in
the young heart leaves. Center leaves fail to develop normally and may appear
as short, thickened stubs in the center of the plants. Pink-to-tan latex
deposits collect on the affected leaves. In plants which are infected late in
the season the only symptoms are latex deposits within the head. In general,
infected plants are stunted, fail to "head," and are worthless for market.

Control: Aster yellows has a wide host range. The elimination of weeds in
areas surrounding the lettuce planting will be helpful.  Partial control may
be obtained by controlling the leafhopper vectors.  Shaded plants are avoided
by leafhoppers.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- (BEET) WESTERN YELLOWS

Cause:  Beet western yellows virus, an increasingly significant pathogen in
western Oregon.  The principal vector is the green peach aphid, Myzus
persicae, although other aphid vectors are likely.  After acquiring the virus
from infected plants, aphids may retain for life the ability to transmit
virus.  An enormous number of crop and weed species are susceptible to this
virus; thus the natural inoculum reservoir is hardly avoidable.  Crop plants
commonly infected in western Oregon include beets (table and sugar), broccoli,
most clover species, mustard, lettuce, pea, radish, spinach, Swiss chard, and
turnip.  Weed species commonly infected in western Oregon include burdock,
Canada thistle, cutleaf geranium, dog fennel, groundsel, pigweed, redstem
filaree, weedy clovers, and wild mustard.

Symptoms:  Leaves turn yellow prematurely, typically beginning at the margins
and progressing inward, with veins and midribs tending to remain green.  The
oldest leaves tend to become yellow first, with upward progression of yellows
symptoms, resulting in reduced and abnormal growth (i.e., unmarketable).

Control:  `Salinas' is tolerant.  Attempts are underway to identify other
lettuce cultivars and breeding lines that are both suitable to the Pacific
Northwest and resistant to this virus.  No other control measures are consid-
ered practicable. 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- BIG VEIN

Cause: A soilborne virus transmitted by the fungus Olpidium brassicae.

Symptoms: Leaf veins appear decidedly larger because of clear areas along the
veins. Leaves may be puckered and mottled. Heads fail to size up. Often only a
rosette of leaves, but no head forms. Low temperatures favor the disease it is
evident in early and late crops much more than in midsummer crops.

Control: On badly infested land, practice long rotations. Select land not
previously planted to lettuce if possible. Removing crop residue, rather than
working it into the soil, will prevent increase of the disease. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- BOTTOM ROT

Cause: Rhizoctonia solani, a fungus. This disease is widespread occurring most
often on muck soil. It commonly attacks the `Big Boston' types of head
lettuce.

Symptoms: The disease appears after the plants have developed heads that are
approaching maturity. Clear cut necrotic spots appear on the stems and midribs
of the lower leaves and may enlarge over the entire stem. A brown exudate
appears on the surface of the spots, and infection continues to produce sunken
brown spots. The fungus may advance through the leaf blade until the entire
head is destroyed.  Brown sclerotia develop near the axils of the leaves, and
the fungus may produce a noticeable network of growth around the head. The
head becomes slimy and dries up to a blackened mummy. Bacterial soft rot often
follows bottom rot invasion.

Control:

1.  Use well-drained soil or raised beds.

2.  Rotate with nonsusceptible crops such as sweet corn or onions where
practical to do so.

3.  Application of Ronilan for drop disease has also controlled bottom rot in
Washington trials.

4.  Rovral controls bottom rot. See lettuce drop for instructions.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- DAMPING-OFF

Chemical control: Where Pythium sp. are a problem, use Ridomil 2E as a
broadcast or 7-inch band application in 20 to 50 gal of water at the rate of 4
to 8 pt/A for broadcast application. Bank application rates may be calculated
from a table provided on the label depending on band width, row spacing, etc.
Broadcast applications may be incorporated to a depth of 2 inches. If plant-
ings are made on beds, broadcast and incorporate before forming beds. (Head
lettuce only.)

Or treat seed with Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt of seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- DOWNY MILDEW

Cause: Bremia lactucae, a fungus. The fungus overwinters on wild hosts and
weeds. It is serious whenever outdoor winter crops are grown as well as in
greenhouses.

Symptoms: Light green or yellowish areas on the upper surface of the leaves
are matched by downy patches on the undersurface. Affected portions turn brown
and the leaves die. Older leaves are attacked first. The disease is worse in
periods of damp foggy weather and at low temperatures between 43and 53 F.

Control:

1.  Use thorough cultivation practices, particularly controlling weeds in the
vicinity, as many weeds are wild hosts.

2.  Use resistant strains of lettuce, such as those developed in the Imperial
Valley. The following lettuce varieties are resistant to strains of downy
mildew as noted: `Bullseye' (II, III), `Target' (I, III), `Dynasty' (I),
`Bounty' (I), `Alpine' (I), and `Salinas' (I).  

3.  A copper-lime dust has been beneficial in greenhouses or in seedling beds,
but is seldom used in the field.

4.  The cos variety `Valmarie' is tolerant.

5.  Apply fosetyl-Al (Aliette) at 1.6 to 4.0 lb ai/A.  Do not apply in less
than 15 gal water/A.  Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.

6.  Apply maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season.  Do not apply within 10 days of harvest.  Remove residues by
stripping and trimming.

7.  Spray with fixed copper.  Several formulations and products are available. 
Check product label for rates.

8.  Application of Ridomil for pythium control (see damping-off), offers some
control of downy mildew on young plants.  To minimize the development of fungi
resistant to Ridomil, do not make foliar application if Ridomil was applied at
planting.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- DROP OR WATERY SOFT ROT

Cause: Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, a fungus. This disease survives the winter on
old lettuce refuse on the ground and as sclerotia in the soil.

The disease has two phases--the damping-off phase, attacking the seedlings,
and the important field phase known as "drop," which causes a watery soft rot.
It is severe whenever lettuce is grown under cool moist conditions.

Symptoms: Under moist conditions, the outer leaves wilt and there is a slimy
rot of the plant. A cottony fungus growth appears on the stem near the soil
level. The drop phase appears in midsummer or later following a wilting of the
leaves, beginning with the oldest leaves and continuing until the plant
collapses. The cottony fungus growth precedes this wilting stage. Hard
sclerotia develop throughout the diseased portion of the plant.

Control:

1.  Use well-drained land and avoid crowding plants in the field.

2.  Remove old plant trash from previous crops where possible.

3.  As many other vegetable crops are susceptible, rotation will usually not
solve the problem.

4.  In irrigated areas, flooding the soil when the ground is not in produc-
tion helps to reduce sclerotia.

Spray (all lettuce) - Apply 1 to 2 lb Ronilan 50 WP, or 1 to 2 pt/A of Ronilan
FL in not less than 100 gal water/A. Apply within 2 days of thinning or 7- to
10- days of transplanting. Up to two more applications can be made at 14-day
intervals on direct seeded lettuce and one more on transplants. Do not apply
within 28 days of harvest.

Spray (all lettuce)--Apply 1.5 to 2.0 lb Rovral 50 WP in 50 to 100 gal water/A
by ground. Apply at the three leaf stage of growth and again 10 days later. A
third application can be made 10 days later if disease pressure persists.

Residues: 

Ronilan - Do not apply more than 1 lb actual/A per application. Do not apply
within 28 days of harvest.  Do not apply more than 3 lb ai/A in one season.  

Rovral - Do not apply more than 1 lb ai/A per application. Do not apply within
14 days of harvest or more than three times per season.  See label for
rotation restrictions.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- MOSAIC

Cause: A virus transmitted by seed and by the green peach aphid. 

Symptoms: In the young plant the first symptoms are upward rolling of the
seedling leaves on the long axis and the first true leaf is irregular in shape
and slightly lobed. These symptoms are followed by vein clearing and bronzing.
The bronzing is caused by necrotic flecking of the leaf blade, especially
along the veinlets symptom expression varies with variety and climatic
factors.

In older plants the mottle symptom is absent or indistinct. In half-grown
plants, the whole plant is severely stunted and a dull-green to slightly
yellow color. The tip of the outer leaves is rolled downward giving the plants
a wilted appearance although the leaves may be turgid. The midribs of these
stunted plants protrude abnormally on the underside of the leaf and give the
lower portion of the heads a ribby appearance.

Control:

1.  Disease-free seed is the best means of control.  Avoid planting varieties
of lettuce that are not tested for mosaic in the same field with tested
material.  

2.  Control weeds, particularly wild lettuce in the vicinity of the planting.

3.  There are no resistant varieties yet, but breeders are hopeful of produc-
ing resistance soon.

4.  Remove diseased plants whenever apparent.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- RED RIB (Rib Blight)

Cause: Unknown, but is believed to be of physiological origin. Tests have not
been able to associate red rib with soil types, pH, fertilizing practices,
etc.

Symptoms: Brownish-red spots on the leaves, mainly on the ribs, which enlarge
to become fairly wide bands--up to 2 inches by 3 to 4 inches long. The
discolored streaks or bands are diffuse, not sharp edged. The disorder may
affect one or two ribs of the outside leaves, but often the discoloration
continues through to the inner leaves from these points. The larger bands of
affected tissue may crack, allowing the entrance of rot organisms. The
varieties `Ithaca' and `Summertime' are tolerant of this condition.

Control: Other states report that the variety `Great Lakes' and other
California varieties are frequently affected. The disorder was first reported
in Oregon in 1956, from the Eugene area, where a 2-acre field of the `Great
Lakes' variety was almost 100 percent affected with subsequent severe loss to
the grower.  Harvest promptly.  Several harvests may be necessary to remove
heads before disorder appears.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- SEED TREATMENT

Aids in control of seed decay and damping-off:

Thiram 4 oz ai/100 lb seed. Considered to be a nonfood use.

Where Pythiuim is a problem, use Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- TIP BURN

Cause: Physiological disorder. All lettuce varieties grown in the Pacific
Northwest are susceptible to some degree to tip burn. Considerable difference
between varieties is recognized. The precise conditions under which tip burn
develops have not been identified. At least five environmental conditions have
been reported to favor the development of the disorder. All of these have an
effect on calcium uptake or distribution within the plant: 1) High relative
humidity combined with high temperatures, particularly night temperatures
above 65 F during head development. 2) Conditions that favor rapid succulent
growth such as abundant moisture and an abundant supply of plant nutrients. 3)
An inadequate or fluctuating water supply as the crop matures. 4) Low soil and
air temperatures during early development followed by a period of high
temperatures with low humidity as the crop nears maturity. 5) An imbalance in
the mineral nutrition of the crop, particularly as affecting calcium. Exces-
sively high levels of potassium and magnesium or high applications of ammonium
nitrogen have been reported to predispose lettuce to tip burn, particularly
where soils are low in calcium to begin with.

Symptoms: The initial symptoms of tip burn are small, dark-brown spots along
the margins of the interior or exterior head leaves. These spots later merge
together, and the entire margin becomes brown and necrotic. Tip burn is more
serious when it occurs on the internal leaves of the head. Internally, the
dark-brown necrotic leaves make the heads unmarketable and cannot be detected
and eliminated from the pack by the harvest crews. The internal necrotic areas
are ideal sites for the development of secondary organisms, particularly
various rot organisms that cause a watery breakdown of the tissue, commonly
known as slime. Usually only a few leaves of the head are affected with tip
burn.

Control: There is no specific control for this disorder. Calcium chloride
treatments showed some effects in test plots but no effect in field plots in
reducing the disease. The more resistant varieties should be used. The
varieties `Ithaca' and `Summertime' are recommended for main season produc-
tion. It is important to maintain adequate calcium levels in the soil and to
manage fertilizer and irrigation programs so as to provide even growth
throughout the plant's life. Soil samples should show adequate base saturation
and adequate levels of calcium. Nitrogen forms may be important with nitrate
forms being preferred over ammonium forms. Lettuce should be harvested at
optimum maturity since tip burn tends to be more serious on overmature
lettuce.  Under Oregon conditions, all California varieties are susceptible.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- VARNISH SPOT

Cause: A bacterium, Pseudomonas cichorii, which can survive in the soil for
some time after the lettuce crop is removed.

Symptoms: Dark-brown, firm, necrotic spots a few millimeters in diameter occur
on leaves and petioles of lettuce several layers within the lettuce head.
Since outer layers of leaves are rarely affected, it is usually impossible to
detect the disease without destroying the head.

Control: Little information is available on control. Several years of rotation
out of lettuce and minimizing overhead irrigation during the last 3 weeks
before harvest may be helpful.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTUCE -- BLACK MARGIN BURN

Cause:  A bacterium Pseudomonas marginalis which causes a black tip burning. 
Prevalent in cool moist conditions.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________



         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production   guidelines  from  public  institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and  Canada.  These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 9733l.              
         ---------------------------------------------------


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:55 EST 1995
Article: 56522 of rec.gardens
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From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Spinach
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:10:09 -0800
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                                    SPINACH
                               Spinacia oleracea

GENERAL

      The use of proper varieties is especially important.  Slow growing, slow
bolting (slow premature seed-stalk development) varieties are used for late
spring and summer harvest, while fast growing (those also tend to be fast
bolting) vigorous varieties should be used for fall, winter and early spring
harvest.  Lengthening days and increasing temperatures predispose spinach to
bolting . The bolting response to long days and increasing temperatures is
increased by exposure of young plants to low (40-60 F.) temperatures.  Disease
resistance in spinach varieties is developed for the season to which the
variety is adapted.  With proper selection of varieties, spinach production
for the fresh market is possible almost year-round in western Oregon.

      Traditionally, prickly seeded varieties were known as fall harvest, and
winter types, while round seeded varieties were referred to as summer spinach. 
However, new varieties of round seeded spinach, make these designations less
important.

      Flat, semisavoy and savoy leaf varieties are used for different markets. 
Generally the flat and some of the semisavoy varieties are used for process-
ing.  All three types are used for fresh market with semisavoy and savoy types
predominating.  When the savoy types are used for processing plant growth
regulators may sometimes be applied prior to harvest to cause a more upright
leaf growth and reduce the risk of soil contamination.  This is important due
to the difficulty in removing soil from savoy leaves during washing and
processing.

SPINACH VARIETIES (approximately 40-50 days).

      Where downy mildew (Peronospora effusa) may be a problem, select resis-
tant varieties listed in the disease control section.  The varieties Baker,
Cascade, Olympia, Rainier, Shasta, St. Helens, Polka, and Wolter, among others
have resistance to races 1, 2 and 3 of downy mildew .  A new race 4 has been
identified in California in 1989 to which these and most commercial varieties
are susceptible.  Research in California indicates that the varieties Bossa-
nova, Bolero and RS1250  have resistance to strain 4.  The variety Coho has
resistance to White Rust.

      Beet Western Yellows tolerance for trial:  Ambassador, Rainier, Rhythm9 
                  NIZ 46-17, and Hyb#7 

      Savoy types used where Cucumber Mosaic Virus may be a problem are
Bloomsdale Long Standing and Winter Bloomsdale.  These may be planted in fall,
winter or early spring. 

      Exceptional bolting tolerance:  Martine, Bejo 1369, Splendor


PLANTING DATES

      Planting dates for certain varieties are chosen so as to grow the most
vigorous variety possible and yet avoid the risk of bolting.  Bolting risk
increases as day length, temperature and plant density increases and as soil
moisture or plant nutrients decrease.  Suggested varieties are:

Planting Dates                     Leaf Type and Variety
------------------     -----------------------------------------------------
                       Flat              Semi-Savoy       Savoy

Early (winter or       Baker, Polka,     Avon, Baker,     Savoy Supreme
      before May 1)    Symphony, Wolter  Melody, Skookum,
                                         Tyee, Indian 
                                         Summer

      Exceptional bolting tolerance:  Martine, Bejo 1369, Splendor
      Asian leaf type for trial:  Imperial Sun.
      Resistance to Downy Mildew strains 1,2,3 and 4:  Bolero, Bossanova (both
                        smooth)

Mid-season  (May 1     Baker, Olympia,   Melody, Skookum   Bloomsdale L.S.
      to July 31)      Polka, Symphony   Tyee, Indian
                                         Summer, Mazurka

      Exceptional bolting tolerance:  Martine, Bejo 1369, Splendor
      Beet Western Yellows tolerance for trial:  Ambassador, Rainier, Rhythm9 
                  NIZ 46-17, and Hyb#7 

Late (August 1 to      Baker, Olympia,   Avon, Chinook II  Iron Prince,
      mid-September)   Polka, Wolter     Hyb.#7, No.7R,    Vienna
                       St. Helens,       Skookum
                       Hybrid 424,
                       Estivato

Overwinter (mid to     Baker, Cascade,   Chinook II,        Iron Prince
      late September)  St. Helens,       No. 7
                       Hybrid 424,
                       Wolter

      Asian leaf types for trial:  Imperial Express and Imperial Star

Other leaf types:

      New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) is a tender annual with
fleshy stems and leaves, resembling spinach.  It has very limited commercial
demand, but because of its adaptability to hot summer temperatures and
drought, it is popular among some home gardeners.

      Spinach beet and Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris Cicla group), a form of
common table beet or leaf beet, grown for their succulent leaves which can be
harvested over an extended period.  Swiss chard has large, well developed
petioles that may be red, white or green.  These are grown for limited
markets, and primarily in home gardens.  Sugar beet leaves may also be used as
a substitute for spinach, and are considered superior to table beet leaves.

      Malabar spinach is in a different family altogether.  The genus is
Basella, and three species are common: B. rubra, B. alba and B. cordifolia,
red stem, green stem and heart-shaped leaf forms respectively.  This is a
warm-season crop which produces aggressive vines that may reach 10-15 feet in
length.  The succulent leaves and tender shoots are marketed at specialty
markets and are used the same as spinach. 

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Alf Christianson Seed Co. POB 98 Mount Vernon WA 98273
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Bejo Seeds, 1323 E. Fir St.  Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
*Harris Moran Seed Co. 4511 Willow Road, Suite 3.  Pleasanton, CA 94588-2709. 
      510/416-8400.  FAX 510/416-8499
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Rogers NK. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711
Nunhems Zaden, Canners Seed Corp. 221 E. Main St. Lewisville, ID 83431
Rijk Zwaan, Inc. 35 Harmony Rd. Warren, NJ 07060
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

SOILS

      Muck soils provide needed organic matter and high, uniform, moisture
content.  Sandy loams may be used.  A pH. of 6.2 to 6.9 is optimum with a pH.
between 6.5 and 7.0 being ideal for good growth.  Spinach grows very poorly at
pH. below 6.0.

SEED AND SEED TREATMENT

      Summer spinach variety seed numbers approximately 2,800 per ounce, while
New Zealand spinach seed numbers about 350 per ounce.  Use only seed that has
been treated.  Spinach is susceptible to damping off. 

TEMPERATURE

      Recent research indicates that a temperature of 50-63 is ideal for
optimal growth. 

SEEDING

      Use a precision seeder to plant about 10 seeds per lineal foot of row. 
This will provide about 6-8 plants per foot, the desired stand.  Space rows in
sets 10-12 inches apart or singly 18-36 inches apart.  This method will
require 2-4 lb./acre of seed.  If a precision seeder is not used, approximate-
ly 10-15 lbs. of seed are needed per acre.  Generally a lower seeding rate is
used when spinach is planted for processing, and a higher rate when spinach is
to be bunched or bagged.  Seeding rates should be reduced when spinach is to
be grown during high temperatures.


FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  As a
general guideline broadcast and disc in the following:

                              Muck Soils               Mineral Soils

      Nitrogen (N)            30-50 lb./acre           60-100 lb./acre
      Phosphate (P2 05)       100-150 lb./acre         100-150 lb./acre 
      Potash (K2 0)           0-150 lb./acre           0-150 lb./acre 
   
      Micronutrients should be applied only on the basis of soil test.

IRRITGATION

      Spinach is a quick-growing, shallow-rooted crop that is not tolerant of
water stress.  Maintain adequate moisture by frequent irrigation when neces-
sary but avoid irrigation practices that splash soil onto the leaves or damage
them.

HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE

      Spinach for processing yields are approximately 8 to 10 tons per acre. 
Fresh market yields are 80 to 150 cwt./acre.

      For processing - harvest before plants are too large or begin to bolt
(usually when 16" to 17" tall).  Sometimes a second cut is made for a chopped
pack  after suitable regrowth has developed.

      At harvest, the first cut is made 6-7 inches above the ground in order
to eliminate as much stem and petiole as possible for the whole leaf pack. 
This also is done to avoid as many of the yellow or old leaves as possible. 
At the second cutting, small disks are used to cut away these yellow or old
leaves and to remove some soil away from the crown to facilitate harvest. 
Depending on temperature, and plant density, 3-4 weeks are needed between the
first and second cutting to obtain adequate regrowth.

      For fresh market - plants should be dry and slightly wilted to prevent
petiole breakage.  Harvest by hand, cut above the crown or soil line and
bunch.  Care should be taken to exclude leaves that are dirty with soil or are
yellow.  Bunched spinach must be handled extra carefully to reduce breakage of
plants or bunches during bunching, washing and packaging.

      Freshly cut spinach is highly perishable.  Care is needed in keeping
loads from overheating.  Loads must be cooled if they are to be transported
long distances to the processing or packing plant.

      STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):

      Hold spinach at 32 F and 95 to 100% relative humidity.  Spinach is very
perishable; hence, it can be stored for only 10 to 14 days.  The temperature
should be as close to 32 F as possible because spinach deteriorates rapidly at
higher temperatures.  Crushed ice should be placed in each package for rapid
cooling and for removing the heat of respiration.  Top ice is also beneficial. 
Hydro-cooling and vacuum cooling are other satisfactory cooling methods for
spinach.

      Most spinach for fresh market is prepackaged in perforated plastic bags
to reduce moisture loss and physical injury.  Controlled atmospheres with 10
to 40 percent carbon dioxide and 10% oxygen have been found to be beneficial
in retarding yellowing and maintaining quality.

PACKAGING

      Spinach is commonly packaged in 20-22 lb. cartons and wire-bound crates,
packed 2 dozen each; or 7 l/2-8 lb. 12 film bags, each 10 oz, in master
cartons; or 20-25 lb. bushel baskets and bushel crates. 

                          PEST CONTROL FOR SPINACH

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.  Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
    maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures 
    and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.  Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed 
    will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.  Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the 
    field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed 
    weeds.




Weed Treatment             Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate                 Consult Labels     
  Roundup                               
  Roundup RT                            
  (E. Washington and                    
  Idaho only)                           
  or Honcho +                           
  nonionic surfactant                                   

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      preparation or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label
      for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species control-
      led.  Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while
      perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a surfactant or
      ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed.  Do not
      apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops within
      12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino acids
      and protein synthesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT, PREEMERGENCE, AND POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
diethatyl ethyl           2 to 4 lb ai/A 
  Antor                                        
 
      Select rates according to soil types listed on the label and apply at
      planting or shortly after, but before weeds emerge.  Use higher rate for
      each soil type when shepherdspurse is a problem.  Activate with rainfall
      or overhead irrigation within 7 to 10 days.  (Inhibits roots and
      shoots).
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
cycloate                          2 to 3 lb ai/A           
  Ro-Neet                                       

      In Washington, a special local needs (SLN WA-930019) is available. 
      Apply preplant to soil dry enough for thorough mixing and incorporate 2
      to 3 inches deep immediately by cross-disking or using a rotary tiller. 
      Use on mineral soils only.  Seed may be planted immediately.  (Inhibits
      shoot growth).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
phenmedipham                 0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A       
  Spin-Aid                                      

      Apply any time when spinach are past 4-6 leaf stage and before weeds are
      at the 2-leaf stage.  Avoid applications when weather conditions may
      change rapidly from cool and cloudy to warm and sunny days, or when
      spinach are stressed from insect, disease, disease, or cultivation in-
      jury. Tip burn or temporary growth retardation and chlorosis may occur,
      although plants usually recover within 10 days.  Do not apply within 60
      days of harvest. Avoid diluting herbicide more than one quart/7 g water
      in spray tank as this can cause precipitation of the chemical.  (Inhib-
      its photosynthesis).  
------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim              0.28 lb ai/A              
  Poast              

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.   Add 2 pints/a nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to im- 
      prove leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are
      stunted or stressed from drought, high temperature, or low fertility.  
      Resistant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
      quackgrass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 15 days of spinach
      and leaf lettuce harvest or 30 days for head lettuce, nor exceed 3
      pints/A per season.  Avoid applications when temperatures exceed 90 F or
      when relative humidity exceeds 60%. (Inhibits fatty acid production,
      cell membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS ARE
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                 Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Loopers, including                          Phosdrin - 0.5 to 1.0 lb    
Alfalfa looper                                                             
Autographa californica                      methoxychlor - 2.25 lb         
                                                                           
Mottled gray moth, 1 1/2 inches,            Dibrom - 1.0 to 1.5 lb         
with silver markings on fore-                                              
wings. Worms are slender, (1                Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb      
inch) dark olive-green with paler                                          
head. Marked with three light               permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
stripes. Move in a looping manner.          Do not graze or feed treated 
                                            crop refuse to livestock.

                                            Bacillus thuringiensis 
                                             1 to 2 qt.  Use an appropri-
                                               ate spreader-sticker.  
                                              Through underleaf coverage       
                                              essential. 

                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.75 lb

                                            diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, including                           malathion - 1.25 lb   
Bean aphid                                                             
 Aphis fabae                                Phosdrin - 0.25 to 1 lb
                                                                       
Black plant louse that colonizes            diazinon - 0.5 lb     
foliage.                                         
                                            Dibrom - 1 to 1.5 lb
Green peach aphid                                    
 Myzus persicae                             dimethoate - 0.25 lb               
           
Yellowish pink to pale green                azinphosmethyul - 0.375 to 0.5 lb 
plant louse with a large distinct           
blotch on top of abdomen.                   Pyrellin - 1 to 2 qt               
                  
Melon aphid                                 diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation
 Aphis gossypii

Small plant louse, yellowish to dull
green. Pale forms have dark mottlings.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms and Armyworms                      permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
                                                                      
Dark, shiny larvae of moths. In-            diazinon - 3 to 4 lb      
habit top 1 to 3 inches of soil.            Cutworms only.            
                                                                      
                                            Phosdrin - 0.25 to 0.5 lb 
                                            Cutworms only.            
                                                                      
                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb 
                                            Armyworms only.           
                                                    
                                            carbaryl - 0.5 to 2 lb             
    
                                            carbaryl bait - 1 to 2 lb 

                                            Bacillus thuringiensis - 
                                            1 - 2 qt.  Use an appropriate 
                                            spreader-sticker.

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.75 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden Symphylan                            Telone II - preplant
Scutigerella immaculata
                                            Telone C-l7 - preplant
Small, white, centipede-like
animals in the soil.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lygus bugs                                  malathion 1 lb 
Lygus spp.

Adults, about 3/16 inch long,
have a light yellow ;"V" on                      
back. Damage young seedlings                                                 
by sucking plant juices.                                                       
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leafminers including                        dimethoate - 0.25 lb    
Spinach leaf miner                                                  
Pegomya hyoscyami                           diazinon - 0.5 lb       
                                                                    
Larvae of slender, gray fly.                Phosdrin - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
Maggots are small, pale green                                       
to whitish. Enter leaf tissues              Dibrom - 1 to 1.5 lb
and feed between leaf sur-                                          
faces causing colorless                     permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
blotches on leaves.                         Do not graze or feed treated 
                                            crop refuse to livestock. 

                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt

                                            azinphosmethyl - 0.375 to 0.5 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cucumber beetles including                  methoxychlor - 1 to 2.25 lb
Western spotted cucumber beetle
Diabrotica undecimpunctata                  carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb

Yellowish-green, black-spotted beetle.      Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
Common to western Oregon. Damage usually
limited to young plants.                    diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
Limonius spp.                                                   
                                            Telone II - preplant
Brown, jointed larvae of click
beetles. Kill young seedling                Telone C-17 - preplant
plants.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPINACH -- (Beet) WESTERN YELLOWS

Cause: Beet western yellows virus, an increasingly significant pathogen in
western Oregon.  The principal vector is the green peach aphid, Myrus
persicae, although other aphid vectors are likely.  After acquiring the virus
from infected plants, aphids may retain for life the ability to transmit the
virus.  An enormous number of crop and weed species are susceptible to this
virus; thus the natural inoculum reservoir is hardly avoidable.  Crop plants
commonly infected in western Oregon include beets (table and sugar), broccoli,
most clover species, mustard, lettuce, pea, radish, spinach, Swiss chard, and
turnip.  Weed species commonly infected in western Oregon include burdock,
Canada Thistle, cutleaf geranium, dog fennel, groundsel, pigweed, redstem
filaree, weedy clovers, and wild mustard.

Symptoms:  Leaves turn yellow prematurely, typically beginning at the margins
and progressing inward, with veins and midribs tending to remain green.  The
oldest leaves tend to become yellow first, with upward progression of yellows
symptoms, resulting in reduced and abnormal growth (i.e., unmarketable).

Control:  Attempts are underway in 1991-92 to identify lettuce and spinach
cultivars and breeding lines that are both suitable to the Pacific Northwest
and resistant to this virus.  No other control measures are considered
practicable.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPINACH -- (Cucumber) MOSAIC

Cuase: Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV), a pathogen spread by aphids.  CMV overwin-
ters in the seeds of wild cucumber and in wild perennial milkweed, ground
cherry, and matrimonial vine.

Symptoms:  The virus causes a yellow and green mottle of the leaves and some
mild leaf distortion.

Control:

1.    Remove wild cucumber vines, milkweed, and other susceptible weed hosts
to within 1,000 feet of the field if possible.

2.    Control aphids by spraying and dusting.

3.    The cultivar `Early Hybrid' is resistant.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPINACH -- DAMPING-OFF

Cause: Pythium sp. and Rhizoctonia solani. Under moist conditions these
soil-infesting fungi can build up rapidly and attack young germinating
seedlings.

Symptoms: As young spinach plants appear at the surface of the soil, their
stems are attacked and they wilt, fall over, and die. Germinating seed is also
attacked.

Control: Use seed treatment with Thiram.  See Spinach--Seed Treatment, or
where Pythium sp. are a problem, Ridomil 2E may be added, broadcast, or
broadcast and incorporated at the broadcast rate of 4 to 8 pt/A in 20 to 50
gal of water/A. Banded rates are determined by band width, row spacing, etc.,
and can be calculated by means of a table provided on the label. Incorporation
should be to a depth of 2 inches when used. If beds are formed, Ridomil should
be applied and incorporated before beds are formed.  Ridomil 5G also may be
applied to spinach.  See product label.

Or, Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------




SPINACH -- DOWNY MILDEW

Cause: Peronospora effusa, a fungus. This organism overwinters on dead spinach
and refuse.

Symptoms: Pale yellowish spots develop on the leaves which have a gray to
purple downy growth on their undersurfaces, particularly in wet weather. The
infections may be scanty or numerous, often growing together. Where severe,
plants are stunted or die.

Control:

1.  Where possible rotate crops to land not having grown spinach for several
years.

2.  Resistant varieties and the race they resist are: `Nores', `Duet', `Early
Hybrid 7' (1,2); `Dixie Market', `Hybrid 424' (1,2); `Polka' (1,2,3); `St.
Helens' (1,2,3); `Resistoflay' (1,2); `Baker' (1,2,3); `Jade' (1,2,3);
`Olympia' (1,2,3); `Rainier' (1,2,3); `Shasta' (1,2,3); `Woster' (1,2,3); 
`Melody' (1,2); `Debut' (1,2,3); and `Meridian' (1,3). 

3.  Commercial spinach should be grown in areas where downy mildew is not a
serious problem.

4.  Apply fosetyl-Al at 1.6 to 4 lb ai/A.  Do not apply in less than 15 gal
water/A or more than 7 times/season or within 3 days of harvest.

5.  Ridomil 2E applied at planting and repeated at 40-day intervals gives
control where resistance is not a problem.  To minimize development of
resistance, do not use as a foliar spray once the disease has developed.  See
product label.

6.  Apply fosetyl-Al (Aliette) at 1.6 to 4.0 lb ai/A.  Do not apply in less
than 15 gal water/A.  Do not apply within 3 days of harvest.  See label for
crop damage warnings.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPINACH -- FUSARIUM WILT

Cause: Fusarium oxysporum f. spinaciae, a fungal disease that can survive in
the soil for several years in the absence of a spinach crop.  This fungus can
also survive on infested seed and cause disease in fields previously free of
spinach wilt.

Symptoms: Two types of symptoms are commonly observed in seed crops: (1) a
seedling disease which can be confused with damping-off and (2) premature
dying of older plants. In the seedling stage the plants will appear normal
until the first true leaves form. At this time the cotyledon leaves will wilt
and in 7 to 10 days the plant dies. The roots may have a black lesion at the
base, and the vascular tissue will be darkened or discolored and few feeder
roots develop. Plants may be killed at any time from the seedling stage to
seed crop maturity.  Symptoms on older plants are: General yellowing of the
lower leaves early maturity of the plant premature death and very little seed
production and, in some instances, death of the plant prior to seed develop-
ment. When older plants are pulled and examined, they may have darkened
vascular tissue and extensive secondary root order.  The base of the stem,
when cut longitudinally, will be discolored and mycelium of the fungus may be
seen. In general, older diseased plants appear to be suffering from extreme
drought and/or severe root rot.

Control:

1.  Use resistant varieties such as `St. Helens', `Jade', `Chinook II', and
`Skookum'.

2.  Avoid planting on soil known to be infested with Fusarium wilt of spinach.

3.  Practice crop rotation and do not plant spinach in consecutive years (4 to
6 year rotation may aid in the control of wilt).

4.  Plant early. This may reduce seedling disease because of lower soil
temperature during initial development of the plant.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production   guidelines  from  public  institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and  Canada.  These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 97331.
         --------------------------------------------------- 


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:57 EST 1995
Article: 56523 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Peppers
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:10:47 -0800
Organization: Cal State Long Beach
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X-Status: 

                                 PEPPERS 
                   Capsicum annuum and C. frutescens

      Taxonomists have only recently begun to agree regarding classification
of the domesticated species of Capsicum.  Although 5 species are described,
only two, C. annuum and C. frutescens have any significance commercially in
the U.S.A.  Early species separation on the basis of fruit shape, color and
position are of little taxonomic value.  Flower and seed color, shape of the
calyx, the number of flowers per node and their orientation, are the primary
separating characteristics.

      C. annuum is the most important domesticated species in the U.S.A. and
is the species to which all bell peppers, and all the peppers listed below
belong (unless specified otherwise.) The only C. frutescens pepper of any
significance is Tabasco.  The Tabasco pepper is difficult to cross with C.
annuum types.  Hot peppers may belong to any of above species and others.  The
C. chinense varieties Habanero and Scotch Bonnet are considered the hottest. 
See other comments under "Novelty" pepper section below.

      The interest in peppers extends to their nutritive and medicinal value
in that peppers are a recognized source of Vitamins C, E and are high in
antioxidants.  These compounds are associated with chemoprevention of cardio-
vascular disorders, cancers, and cataracts.

      Peppers are a warm-season crop and need a long season for maximum
production.  Temperature has a large effect on the rate of plant and fruit
growth and the development and quality of the red or yellow pigments.  Ideal
temperature for red pigment development is between 65 and 75 F.  Above this
range the red color becomes yellowish, and below it color development slows
dramatically and stops completely below 55 F. 

      Many excellent pepper varieties are available.  Test several and select
the ones that do well under your production system, and meets your market
needs.

PUNGENCY RATINGS

      The most common sensory method to determine pungency in peppers has been
an organoleptic test (Scoville, a dilution-taste procedure) with results ex-
pressed as Scoville Heat Units (SHU).  The validity and accuracy of it have
been widely criticized.  The American Spice Trade Association and the Interna-
tional Organization for Standardization have adopted a modified version. The
American Society for Testing and Materials is considering other organoleptic
tests (the Gillett method) and a number of chemical tests to assay for capsai-
cinoids involved in pungency.  Still, the values obtained by the various tests
are often related to Scoville Heat Units.

      A "National Fiery Foods Show" is held annually in Albuquerque NM. For
more information call 505/873-2187.

RECOMMENDED BELL PEPPER VARIETIES  (approximately 60-70 days to first harvest
from transplants):

      Bell (green):  Belle Star, Yankee Bell, Bell King, North Star, Wonder
Bell, Lady Bell, Jupiter Elite, Park's Early Thickset, Bell Tower, Skipper,
Bellboy, Mission Bell, Ringer, Bell Captain, Melody, Ace Hybrid, Cardinal. 
Research in the Hermiston area indicates that Jupiter Elite, Bell Tower,
Belmont, Galaxy and Skipper performed well.  For trial: Camelot, Inia, Merlin,
Ranger, Summersweet, Wonderbelle, Cubico.

      Note:  In 1992, Bell Star and Yankee Bell produced the highest 
      proportion of 4-lobed, blocky peppers.  Their plant growth is 
      more open, and not as many peppers were misshaped by growing among
      branches and being confined between other fruit.

      Bell (Red):  Many green bell peppers turn red when fully mature.  How-
ever, early,  large-fruited, thick-walled varieties, demanded by the market,
are rare.  Research at O.S.U. and from British Columbia indicates that Lady
Bell, La Bamba, Four Corners, Merlin, Ace Hybrid, Bellboy and Cardinal per-
formed best. Four Corners and Merlin also had thick-walls. For trial: Bell
Star, Melody, North Star, Ringer, Candice, Vidi and Predi. 

      Bell (yellow):  Golden Belle and Astro (bright yellow), Klondike Bell
(early, high yield, has an some orange tinge), Honey Bell, Golden Cal Wonder,
Orobelle (orange-yellow).  For trial:  Atlantic, Summer Sweet, Marengo (Lamuyo
type); Gold Crest (small fruit) and Summer Sweet (both turn yellow or orange-
yellow quickly).

      Bell (orange):  Corona (performed best in OSU trials in '92).  Oriole
(best in trials in British Columbia).  For trial:  Ariane, Kerala, Ori,
Valencia.

      Purple, chocolate, and white bell peppers (see list below).  These are 
intermediate colors lasting 7-10 days then turning red.

      Note:  Many of the red, yellow and orange peppers found in the market
are greenhouse-grown from varieties specially developed for greenhouse
production.  

      Bell pepper varieties for greenhouse production of green or red fruit
for specialty markets (for trial only): Cubico, Flair, Plutona, Delphin. 
Yellow fruit:  Samantha, Gloden Flame, Golden Belle, Golden Crest, Marengo,
Orobelle, Olympic.  Orange fruit:  Ariane, Valencia.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------






Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range:

variety name              Color Stages          Pungency    Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bell; 3.5"X4.5", fruit pendant, pungency 0-100 Scoville Heat Units (SHU):

Bell King                  green to red         sweet        early
Bell Captain               green to red         sweet        thick walls
Bell Tower                 green to red         sweet        smooth
Bellboy                    green to red         sweet        thick wall
Bellestar                  green to red         sweet        smooth
California Wonder 300      green to red         sweet        late, thick
Cardinal                   green to red         sweet        thick wall
Four Corners               green to red         sweet        good shape
Jupiter                    green to red         sweet        large, mid 
Lady Bell                  green to red         sweet        early
Midway                     green to red         sweet        early
Mission Belle              green to red         sweet        v. smooth
Parks Early Thickset       green to red         sweet        early  
Parks Whopper              green to red         sweet        med.   
Pip                        green to red         sweet        large
Predi                      green to red         sweet        large, deep red
Ringer                     green to red         sweet        large, mid
Skipper                    green to red         sweet        smooth
Sweet Belle                green to red         sweet        mid 

Goldie                     yellow to red        sweet        early
Gypsy                      yellow to red        sweet        early
Yellow Belle               yellow to red        sweet        early

Early Bountiful            to yellow            sweet
Golden Summer              to yellow            sweet        late
Golden Cal. Wonder         to yellow            sweet        thick wall
Golden Bell                to yellow            sweet        early
Inia                       to yellow            sweet        thick wall
Klondike Bell              to yellow            sweet        early, thick wall
Orobelle                   to yellow            sweet        thick wall
Summer Sweet 820           to yellow            sweet

Golden Crest               to orng-yellow       sweet
Quadrato d'Oro             to orng-yellow       sweet

Ariane                     to orange            sweet        large, thick
Corona                     to orange            sweet        large, thick
Kerala                     to orange            sweet        large, thick
Oriole                     to orange            sweet        large, thick
Salsa RZ                   to orange            sweet        large, thick
Super Stuff                yellow to orange     sweet        early 


Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.

Variety name              Color Stages          Pungency*    Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bell peppers continued:

Lorelei                    purple then red      sweet        small
Purple Beauty              purple then red      sweet        small
Purple Belle               purple then red      sweet        small
Violetta                   purple then red      sweet        small

Blue Jay                   to lavender then red sweet
Islander                   to lavender then red sweet
Lilac                      to lavender then red sweet

Chocolate Bell             to chocolate         sweet        large fruit
Mulato                     to chocolate
Sweet Chocolate            to chocolate         sweet        small fruit

Albino                     to white then red    sweet        small
Dove                       to white then red    sweet        small
Ivory                      to white then red    sweet

Elongated Bell; (lamuyo type fruit) 3.5"x5"; pendant, pungency 0-100 SHU:

Blue Star                  green to red         sweet        large, late
Elisa                      green to red         sweet        mid
Marengo                    green to yellow      sweet
Melody                     green to red         sweet        early
Signet                     green to yellow      sweet        early

Other peppers and their descriptions (approximately 65-105 days depending on
type).

Anaheim; fruit 2"x7"; pendant, pungency 500-3,500 SHU (most 500-1000 SHU):

Anaheim TMR                green to red         mild
Anaheim M                  green to red         warm
Coronado                   green to red         warm
New Mexico 64L             green to red         mild
NuMex Conquistador         green to red         sweet        for paprika 
Volcano                    green to red         hot

Poblano/ancho; fruit heart-shaped 3"-4" x 4"-7"; pendant, 1,000-2,000 SHU. 
The poblano pepper is a major type grown in Mexico, used green, red or dried
(called ancho when dried).  It is commonly used for chiles rellenos:

Ancho 101                  dark green to red    mild         thick wall 
Esmeralda                  dark green to red                 ditto
New Mexican                dark green to red                 ditto
Poblano                    dark green to red    warm         ditto
Verdano                    dark green to red                 ditto
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.

variety name              Color Stages          Pungency*    Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Elongated, tapered;  fruit variable shapes and sizes; pendant, 0-1000 SHU:
Banana Supreme             green to yellow      sweet        early
Canape                     green to yellow      sweet        early
Cuban                      yel-grn:red orange   warm
Cubanelle                  yel-grn:red orange   mild         long fruit
Hungarian Wax              grnish yel:yellow    warm
Sweet Banana               grnish yel:yellow    sweet

Cherry; about 1" diameter; upright, 100-5,000 SHU:
Cascabel                   green to red         hot
Large Red Cherry           green to red         warm
Sweet Cherry               green to red         warm

Cayenne; fruit 0.5"x3"; pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU. A favorite in Creole and
Cajun cooking:
Cayenne, Large Red Thick   green to red         firey        slender 
Cayenne continued...

Cayenne, Long Slim         green to red         firey        slender
Carolina Cayenne           green to red         firey       
Charlston Hot              grn to orange to red firey        to 4" long
Super Cayenne              green to red         firey        long slender

Jalapeno; fruit 1.5"x3"; pendant, 2,500-5000 SHU.  The most common hot chili
grown in the U.S.A.:
Jalapa                     green to red         hot          blunt cylind.
Jalapeno M                 green to red         very hot     thick wall
Jalapeno Hot               green to red         hot          smooth
Mitla hybrid               green to red         hot          thick, blunt cyl.
Tam Jalapeno #1            green to red         hot          thick wall

Pimento; fruit 1.5"x2.5"; pendant, 0-100 SHU:
Pimento L                  green to red         sweet        thick wall

Serrano; fruit 0.5"x2.25"; pendant, 5,000-10,000 SHU:
Serrano types              dark green to red    very hot     small 

Tabasco C. frutescens; fruit 0.25"x 1.25";pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU:

Tabasco                    green to red         firey        small  

Novelty, ornamental:
Marbles (prolific round, mix of green, yellow and red fruit), Riot (prolific
upright long fruit, mix of green, yellow and red).  

Habanero (C. chinense) a firey-hot box-shaped small pepper turning from  green
to orange.  Although the Habanero (C. chinense) pepper has been listed as
being the hottest of all peppers, some rated at 200,000 to 300,000 SHU, not
all Habaneros are hot!  Hot Habanero peppers are used to make hot bottled
sauces. They are grown mainly in Central America and the Yucatan. Other C
chinense extremely hot peppers include Scotch Bonnet (yellow), and Bahamian.

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
De Ruiter Seeds Inc. POB 20228, Columbus, OH 43220
ENZA Zaden, POB 7, 1600 AA, Enkhuisen, Netherlands 02280-15844
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Rogers NK. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711-4727
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
The Pepper Gal. POB 12534 Lake Park, FL 33403-0534
Vilmorin Inc. POB 707 Empire, CA 95319
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
Zwaan Seeds Inc. POB 397, Woodstown New Jersey 08098-0397

SOIL

      Peppers grow best on well-drained, moderately fertile soils.  Use a soil
test to determine fertilizer and liming requirements.  Adjust soil pH to near
neutral (7.0) for maximum yields. 

SEED AND SEED TREATMENT

      Pepper seed numbers approximately 72,000 per pound, but bell peppers are
not normally direct seeded.  Use high quality, fungicide treated seed in the
production of transplants.  Some seed companies now offer "vigorized' or
"conditioned" seed which has better germination under cool soil conditions. 
Peppers are sensitive to damping-off.  Most chile and spice peppers are
direct-seeded.

      In direct seeded plantings a pop-up fertilizer solution may be helpful. 
Spray directly on the seed a solution of 2-6-0 at 1 pint per 100 lineal feet
of row (use 1/2 this rate on sandy soils).  A 2-6-0 solution is equivalent to
1 part of 10-34-0 liquid fertilizer diluted with 4 parts of water.  



TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS

      Pepper is a warm-temperature vegetable and requires a long growing sea-
son.  Transplants which are grown should be kept close to the following tempe-
ratures:  Days:65-85 F.  Nights: 60-65 F.  Temperatures above 95 F may result
in flower bud drop.  Highest yields are obtained when soil temperatures remain
in the 70-75 F range.  Soil temperatures below 68 F may result in substantial
yield reductions.

      The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic mulch, or the new IRT (wave-length selective) mulch is strongly
recommended.

      A very few peppers are sometimes grown in greenhouses.  The varieties
Bellboy, Blue Star and Mogador are reported to tolerate cool temperatures that
sometimes occur in off-season greenhouse production.

TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION AND TRANSPLANTING

      It takes between 3 and 4 ounces of seed to produce enough plants for an
acre.  Seeds should be planted in a heated greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks before the
field transplanting date.  When growing transplants in unheated greenhouses,
cold frames or field transplant beds, 8 to 14 weeks may be necessary. 
Seedlings are transplanted to other flats when the first true leaves are l l/2
in. long and spaced 2 to 2 l/2 in. apart in the greenhouse or plant bed.  At
all times handle pepper seedlings with care because they are easily broken or
damaged.  Harden transplants for about a week before transplanting to the
field by reducing moisture and maintaining a temperature of 55 to 65 F.  This
will give resistance to wilting and sunscald.

      Apply a starter fertilizer solution to the transplants when transplan-
ting to the field.  Select starter fertilizers that have the highest level of
phosphorus available, such as 10-52-17, 11-48-0, 11-55-0 dry fertilizers or
10-34-0 liquid fertilizer.  Make up a stock solution of 3 lbs of the dry, such
as 10-52-17, or 2 pints of liquid 10-34-0 per 50 gallons of water.  Use 1/2
pint of of this stock solution per plant, applying the solution directly to
the plant roots when setting in the field.  You will need about 13 fifty
gallon batches to transplant an acre.

      Depth of transplanting has normally been to the top of the roots or root
ball.  Research from Florida with the variety Jupiter suggests that pepper
transplants may benefit from being set deeper, up to the first true leaf. 
Thirty days after transplanting, plants planted to the first true leaf had
more leaves, greater plant dry weight, more blooms and less lodging than
transplants planted to the cotyledons or to the top of the root ball.  Other
data from Pennsylvania suggest caution however.  Soil temperature and moisture
would be important considerations.

      Greenhouse peppers are sown October through February for harvest of red
fruit approximately 5 months later, March through July. 

SPACING

      Space rows, or pairs of rows about 18-36 inches apart.  Plants should be
12-l8 in. apart in the row and between pairs of rows, depending on method of
transplanting and transplanter capability.  These spacings represent a plant
population of from 10,000 to 29,000 per acre

      Leave roadways across the field at about 150 foot intervals to facili-
tate carrying pails of peppers to collection locations if a harvester aid and
bulk loading is not used. 

      When using plastic mulch, plant 2 rows of peppers per mulch strip, using
36 inch wide platic.  Space plastic strips 5-6 feet apart.  Use drip irriga-
tion tubing under the plastic mulch between the two pepper rows, with drip
emmiters at 9 inch spacing down the row.

      In greenhouse production, allow 3.0 to 3.5 square feet/plant.  Plants
are pruned to a 2-stem training system.  After 10-12 leaves have developed,
the plant forks, and a flower develops at the fork.  Two or three branches are
produced, of which the two strongest are chosen for further production.  These
must be supported by a string or post, and all subsequent branches removed
after the 2nd leaf.  Restrict fruit set on the two stems until at least 3 or 4
leaf axils have formed or stem growth and subsequent fruit set will be greatly
reduced.

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  The
following recommendations are general guidelines for loamy soils or when
organic matter exceeds 2 1/2% :

      Nitrogen: 75-100 (N) lb/acre.

      Side-dress with 35-50 lb/acre of nitrogen after the first flowers are
set.   Where mulching and trickle irrigation are practiced, additional
nitrogen can be fed through the trickle irrigation system at l5 lb./acre when
the first fruit begins to set and an additional l5 lb./acre four weeks after. 
To prevent clogging or plugging from occurring use soluble forms of nitrogen
(urea or Ammonium nitrate) and chlorinate the system once a month with a l0 to
50 ppm chlorine solution.  Chlorinate more frequently if the flow rate
decreases.

      Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb/acre            
      Potash: 100-200 (K2 O) lb/acre depending on soil test.
      Sulfur: 30-35 (S) lb/acre
      pH: Add lime if below 6.0

GROUND MULCHES AND ROW COVERS

      The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic ground mulch is recommended.  The use of ground mulch increases
soil temperature, conserves soil moisture, and controls weeds, increasing
yields and is strongly recommended especially for production in western
Oregon. A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control
together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and
clear film.  These films are called IRT (infra-red transmitting) films.  They
are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where
soil warming is important.  (See also section on spacing).

      Spunbonded polyester and perforated polyethylene row covers may be used
for 4 to 6 weeks immediately after transplanting depending on temperature. 
Research in Illinois with the varieties "Lady Bell" and "Bell Boy", over a
three year period, indicates that covers should be removed after 650-675 heat
units (using a base temperature of 50 F.) have been accumulated.  Heat units
should be based on temperatures recorded outside the covers but nearby and
calculated as: the sum of (daily high+daily low)/2-50 F.  

      Row covers increase heat unit accumulation by 2 to 3 times over ambient. 
Two to four degrees of frost protection may also be obtained at night.  Soil
temperatures and root growth are also increased under row covers as are early
yields, and in some cases total yields.  Research from Connecticut indicates
that the use of row cover and plastic mulch is particularly cost effective
when growing red, yellow or orange bell peppers for the fresh market.

IRRIGATION

      Apply water uniformly to reduce incidence of blossom end rot.  Irrigate
carefully after fruit ripens to reduce fruit decay.  A total of 12-15 inches
may be needed in western Oregon and 25-30 inches in eastern Oregon, depending
on planting date and harvest season.  Approximate summer irrigation needs for
the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5
in July, and 7.0 in August.

HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE

      Yields of 15 to 25 tons/acre of bell peppers may be obtained for
processing.  Fresh market yields may range from 500 to 1000 28 lb. cartons per
acre.  Pimento and dried chili pepper yields range from 2 to 3 tons/acre.
Pepper yields are greatly influenced by the number of harvests and season.  

      Bell pepper types are generally hand harvested as green mature fruits. 
Maturity is determined when fruits are smooth and firm to the touch (a
function of wall thickness).  Bell peppers for fresh market must also be 3
inches in diameter and not less than 3 1/2 inches long to qualify as USDA
Fancy.  They can also be harvested red, which are considerably sweeter and
more flavorful.

      Cherry types are harvested as both green and red fruits, and the banana
types are generally harvested as yellow mature peppers.  Jalapano and some
cherry peppers have been machine harvested successfully in Michigan and
California.  Machine harvesting may be successful with other types especially
where the peppers are intended for processing.  Peppers intended for machine
harvest need to be grown on raised beds in order to be harvested successfully.
      
      When red peppers are desired, a foliar spray of Ethephon (Ethrel) may be
used to promote early, uniform ripening and coloring, or to ripen the par-
tially ripe fruit remaining at the end of the harvest season.  Check the
Ethephon label for complete instructions and regulations.

      STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Sweet Peppers:

      Store sweet peppers at 45 to 55 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity. 
Sweet, or bell, peppers are subject to chilling injury at temperatures below
45 F, and temperatures above 55 F encourage ripening and spread of bacterial
soft rot.  Bell peppers should not be stored longer than 2 to 3 weeks even
under the most favorable conditions.  At 32 to 36 F peppers usually develop
pitting in a few days.  Peppers held below 45 F long enough to cause serious
chilling injury also develop numerous lesions of alternaria rot.  Alternaria
causes the calyx to mold and decay.  Holding at 40 F and below predisposes
peppers to Botrytis decay also.

      Rapid precooling of harvested sweet peppers is essential in reducing
marketing losses, and this can be done by forced-air cooling, hydrocooling or
vacuum cooling.  Properly vented cartons are recommended to facilitate forced-
air cooling.  If hydrocooling is used, care should be taken to prevent the
development of decay.

      Sweet peppers prepackaged in moisture-retentive films, such as perforat-
ed polyethylene, have a storage life at 45 to 50 F up to a week longer than
non- packaged peppers.  The use of film crate liners can help in reducing
moisture loss from the fruit.

      It is commercial practice to wax peppers; only a thin coating should be
applied.  Waxing provides some surface lubrication, which not only reduces
chafing in transit but also reduces shrinkage; the result is longer storage
and shelf life.  Senescence of sweet peppers is hastened by ethylene.  There-
fore, it is not a good practice to store peppers with apples, pears, tomatoes,
or other ethylene producing fruits in the same room.

      Low-oxygen (3 to 5 %) atmospheres retard ripening and respiration during
transit and storage.  High concentrations of carbon dioxide delay the loss of
green color.  However, high carbon dioxide also causes calyx discoloration.

      Chili and Other Hot Peppers:

      Storage temperature depends on use; see text.  A humidity of 60 to 70%
is recommended.  Chili peppers are usually picked when ripe and are then dried
and allowed to equalize in moisture content in covered piles.  Water is
usually added to the peppers after drying to reduce brittleness.  They are
then packed tightly into sacks holding 200 or more pounds and are generally
stored in non-refrigerated warehouses for up to 6 months.  The temperature of
the warehouses depends to some extent on their construction and the way in
which they are managed but chiefly on the outside temperature (50 to 75 F). 
Insect infestation is a major storage problem.  In southern states, chili and
other hot peppers are dried, packaged, and then stored at 32 to 50 F until
shipped to processing plants.  Storage at low temperatures aids in retarding
the loss of red color and in slowing down insect activity.

      The moisture content of chili and other hot peppers when stored should
be low enough (10 to 15 %) to prevent mold growth.  A relative humidity of 60
to 70 % is desirable.  With a higher moisture content the pods may be too
pliable for grinding and may have to be re-dried.  With lower moisture content
(under 10 %) pods may be so brittle they shatter during handling; this causes
losses and the release of dust, which is irritating to the skin and respirato-
ry system.

      The use of polyethylene bags allows better storage and reduces the dust
problem.  The liners ensure that the pods maintain a constant moisture content
during storage and up until the time of grinding; thus, they permit successful
storage or shipment under a wide range of relative humidities.  Packed in this
manner, peppers can be stored 6 to 9 months at 32 to 40 F.

      Manufacturers of chili and other hot pepper products hold part of their
supply of the raw material in cold storage at 32 to 50 F, but they prefer to
grind the peppers as soon as possible and store them in the manufactured form
in airtight containers.

      Freshly harvested chili or other hot peppers should be stored under the
same temperature and humidity conditions as those for sweet peppers.

PACKAGING

      Bell peppers are packaged in 25-30 lb. l l/9 bushel containers or 30 lb.
cartons.  Chili peppers and yellow types are packaged in 16-25 lb. lugs or 10-
20 lb. cartons.

                            PEST CONTROL FOR PEPPERS

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.

WEED CONTROL

     When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.  Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
    maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures 
    and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.  Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed 
    will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.  Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the 
    field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed 
    weeds.

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A
  Gramoxone Extra     
  (see remarks)      

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat,  muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
______________________________________________________________________________

PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED
DIRECT-SEEDED AND TRANSPLANTS

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin             0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A   
  Treflan                                     
  (transplanted pepper only)                                         

      Apply before transplanting and incorporate within 24 hours by cross-
      disking or by using a PTO rotary tiller.  Transplants may be set im-
      mediately.  Spray only once and avoid overlaps.  Use lower rates on
      light or coarse textured soils low in organic matter.  Consult label for
      planting crops within 12 months. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily of
      shoots).                       
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide             1 to 2 lb ai/A 
  Devrinol                                      

      Apply and incorporate uniformly 1 to 2 inches deep.  Use lower rates on
      light, sandy, or coarse-textured soils.  Following harvest, deep
      moldboard plowing or disk plowing must be completed before planting
      succeeding crops. (Inhibits roots of seedlings).
______________________________________________________________________________




TRANSPLANTS ONLY 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA                    9 lb ai/A 
  Dacthal                                       

      Apply 4 to 6 weeks after transplanting to weed-free soil.  Soil should
      be moist and additional water applied for activation.  Performs poorly
      in western Oregon and Washington.  Consult label for planting sensitive
      crops within 12 months.  Results can be improved with overhead irriga-
      tion applied immediately after spraying.  (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________

ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION

Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide.  In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant.  The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device.  Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant.  Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.

Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.

Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix:  Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated             
                   charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural           
                   vermiculite.  If severe dustiness is a problem, add a       
                   small amount of water.  Apply 1 ft3  of mixture/600 ft.     
                   of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A.  Fill the        
                   seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press      
                   with a press wheel.
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sethoxydim              0.29 lb ai/A            
  Poast           

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.  Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
      leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
      or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resis-
      tant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
      quackgrass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 20 days of harvest,
      nor exceed 4.5 pints/A per season.  (Inhibits fatty acid production,
      cell membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR 
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description        Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Armyworms, Cutworms, Loopers.               permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb     
Loopers only.
                                            Lannate - 0.45 lb
Small to large larvae that feed   
on stems, leaves, and fruit.                carbaryl - 2.0 lb  Cutworms
                                            and fall armyworm only.
                                            
                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
                                                             
                                            Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 
                                            qt.  Use a spreader-sticker to 
                                            enhance control.  
                                                                           
                                            Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb 
                                            Bell peppers only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Green peach aphid                           endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb    
Myzus persicae                                                          
                                            Phosdrin - 0.25 lb            
Yellowish, pink to pale green              
plant louse.                                malathion - 1.25 to 1.5 lb    
                                                                          
Where aphids have become                    phosphamidon - 0.5 lb
resistant to most organic phos-                                           
phate insecticides, endosulfan              Dibrom - 1 lb         
is the preferred material.                                                     
                                            dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.33 lb       
                                                           
                                            Lannate - 0.45 lb            

                                            Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb

                                            Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb 
                                             bell peppers only

                                            diazinon - 0.25 lb

                                            Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan                            Dyfonate - 2 to 4 lb. Preplant
Scutigerella immaculata                     soil treatment.  Do not rotate
                                            with carrots.
Small, white, centipede-like
animals active in soil.                     parathion - 6 lb - replant soil
                                            treatment.

                                            Telone II or C-17 preplant
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles including                      azinphosmethyl - 0.5 lb           
Western potato flea beetle                                                  
Epitrix subcrinita                          carbaryl - 1 lb
                                            
Small, oval, shiny bronze jump-             Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb           
ing beetles. Chew small circu-                                            
lar holes in foliage.                       methoxychlor - 1.75 to 2.25 lb

                                            rotenone - 0.35 to 0.5 lb       
                                                                            
                                            endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb        

                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb      
                                            Bell peppers only.              
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites                                dicofol - 0.375 to 0.75 lb. Do     
Tetranychus spp.                            not feed.
                                             
Tiny, spiderlike animals found              Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
on undersurfaces of foliage.                
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 3 to 4 lb 
Limonius spp.                                                    
                                            Dyfonate - 4 lb
Brown, jointed larvae of click              Do not rotate with carrots. 
beetles. Kill young plants, in-                   
jure older ones.                            Telone II or C-17 preplant
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

PEPPER -- MOSAIC VIRUSES

Cause: Several viruses transmitted by aphids, including alfalfa mosaic virus,
potato virus y, pepper mottle virus, tobacco etch virus, and cucumber mosaic
virus.  Tomato spotted wilt virus also infects pepper but is transmitted by
thrips.Symptoms:  Bright yellow mottle, ringspots, and line patterns on both
leaves and fruit. Fruit and plants are stunted, and sometimes exhibit lateral
leaf rolling.  Many of these viruses overwinter in perennial legumes such as
alfalfa and various clovers.  Several common weeds are hosts of some of the
viruses.  

Control: Plant as far as possible from alfalfa fields, clover fields, and
permanent pastures containing clovers.  Keep area around fields as weed-free
as possible.  Aphid control is helpful but will not provide perfect control. 
If tomato spotted wilt is a problem, control of thrips will be of some help.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ANTHRACNOSE

Cause: Gloeosporium, a fungus found on both peppers and eggplants.  This
fungus (like many other anthracnose fungi) is saprophytic during part of its
life cycle and may survive from year to year in the soil crop refuse.

Symptoms: Round sunken spots appear on both green and ripe fruits.  Spores
develop on the infections often in radiating circles around the center, which
later may contain masses of pink spores. The seed may be infected and often
seedlings have the disease, which later moves into the developing foliage.
Such infections are often unnoticed until the fruits start to grow, at which
time the fruit rot phase may become serious.

Control:

1.  Destroy all plant refuse by burning or deep plowing.  

2.  Rotate crops.

3.  Spray fixed copper fungicide.  See product label.

4.  Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- BACTERIAL SPOT

Cause: A bacterium Xanthomonas vesicatoria, that is seedborne and frequently
comes with transplants.  It will live over winter in infected debris and is
spread by irrigation.  Pickers and equipment also spread the disease, particu-
larly when the plants are wet.

Symptoms: Water-soaked spots on leaves that turn gray with black centers. 
They frequently are surrounded by a yellow halo.  They later fall out, leaving
holes apaproximately 0.25 inch in diameter that give the plant a ragged look. 
Fruit spots are at first water-soaked and later become raised and scabby.

Control:

1.  Plant disease-free seed or transplants.

2.  Limit overhead irrigation or, better, produce peppers under furrow or drip
irrigation.

3.  Do not pick or cultivate plants when they are wet.

Chemical control:

If disease is present, spray with fixed copper during wet period.  Several
materials are labeled.  See product label for rates.

Residue:  Copper -- exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- CERCOSPORA LEAF SPOT

Cause: Cercospora melongenae (mostly on eggplant), Cercospora capsici (mostly
on pepper), fungi. These organisms survive the winter on dead plant parts.

Symptoms: Leaf spot infections on eggplant are small, chlorotic, gray turning
to brown, with tiny, dark specks containing spores arranged in circular
fashion. Eggplant fruits are not attacked.  Leaf spot on pepper is at first
water-soaked and up to inch in diameter, later becoming tan in shade with a
dark marginal ring. Centers may often drop out as they age. Spots develop on
stems and petioles. When numerous, the leaves turn yellow and may drop or
wilt. Defoliation is often serious, exposing peppers to sunscald.

Control:

1.  Destroy by burning or deep burying old pepper and eggplant refuse.

2.  Use seed from disease-free areas.

3.  Rotate crops.

4.  Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.

5.  Spray fixed copper fungicide.  See product label.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- COMMON (Tobacco) MOSAIC

Cause: A virus spread by aphids and mechanical means. It overwinters on wild
perennial hosts.

Symptoms: Varying types of yellow and green leaf mottling accompanied by
curling and leaf distortion are displayed. In the early season, plants are
frequently stunted and very few fruits develop. Plants infected later in the
season (during or after blossom) show slight mottling only. Infected fruits
are often yellowed, shriveled, mottled, irregularly shaped, and dwarfed in
size.

Control:

1.  Maintain rigid weed control in nearby plantings.

2.  Controlling aphid vectors with insecticides may help reduce spread.

3.  Do not smoke around the plants, particularly in the greenhouse.

4.  Wash hands after handling infected plants.

5.  Rouge infected plants early.

6.  Resistant cultivars include `Yolo-wonder', `Pennbell', `Bell Boy',
`California Wonder 300', `Orobelle', `Bell Tower', `Elisa', `Marquis', `Belle
Star', `Big Belle', `Four Corners', `Sweet Belle', `Bolero', `Lamuyo',
`Emerald Giant', `Prima Belle', `Lady Bell', `La Bamba', `Jupiter' and 
`Keystone Resistant Giant'.  Hot types that are resistant include `Anaheim TMR
23', `Caloro', `Santa Fe Grande', `Tam Jalapano', `Tam Serrino Hidalgo', and
`Gold Spike'.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- LATE BLIGHT

See Potato and Tomato - Late Blight
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ROOT ROT

Cause: Phytophthora capsici, a fungus. This soil-inhabiting organism causes
root rot in pepper and eggplants and is most active in moist, warm weather.

Symptoms: At soil level, dark-greenish, water-soaked spots occur which often
girdle the stem, causing the plants to wilt and die.  Foliage leaf spots
develop, which are often water-soaked and irregular in shape, later becoming a
light-brown shade. The fruit shows similar spots often enlarging to cover the
entire fruit, which later dries and becomes mummied.

Control:

1.  Plant only in clean soil where the disease has not occurred.

2.  Use disease-free seed.

3.  Practice light irrigation and crop rotation.

4.  Ridomil 2E can be used to control this problem.  A full program consists
of a preplant application followed by two postplant applications.  See product
label. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- VERTICILLIUM WILT

Cause: Verticillium dahliae, a fungus organism. The Verticillium wilt organism
is a widespread soil inhabitant which affects a wide range of herbaceous and
woody plants.

Symptoms: Infected plants show a stunting of growth accompanied by yellowing
and inward rolling of the leaves. The disease development on eggplant begins
with a yellowing of the lower leaves, reduced size and vascular discoloration.
It is seedborne in the eggplant.  The fungus gains entry through the root
system, and progress in the plant is primarily through the vascular system.

Control:

1.  Old crop remains should not be left on the field or added to the compost
pile, as this encourages future infections.

2.  Crop rotation with nonsusceptible grasses and grains may be of some small
value, but nothing can really be done to eradicate this disease.

3.  Avoid tomatoes and potatoes in any rotation, as these are favorite hosts.

4.  There are as yet no resistant varieties.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________





         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production  guidelines  from   public  institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and  Canada.  These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments of questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 97331.              
         --------------------------------------------------- 


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:41:59 EST 1995
Article: 56524 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Beans
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:12:20 -0800
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X-Status: 

                   BEANS - GREEN, YELLOW WAX AND ROMANO (ITALIAN)
                                 Phaseolus vulgaris

                 (see also seperate files on FAVA BEAN and LIMA BEANS)

VARIETIES (snap beans require approximately 60-75 days to harvest, depending
on season, planting date and variety).

      Processing:  Consult processors.   Green-podded varieties commonly grown
are:
      Western Oregon:  OSU 91-G (the primary variety), others are OSU l604,
and the Italian bean varieties Romano FM 14, Roma II.  Small-sieve green
beans: Minuette, Dandy, Tesseo, 76-110.  Yellow-podded:  Goldie, Goldrush,
Sunrae.
      Eastern Oregon; green podded:  Wondergreen and Apollo both are curly top
resistant (only use curly top resistant varieties east of the Cascades).

      Fresh market, Western Oregon, Bush types for hand picking:  Oregon
Trail, Tendergreen, Contender; OSU 91-G (for machine harvest or hand picking). 
Small-sieve (French types):  Minuette, 76-110, Dandy, Tesseo (the latter two
have lighter green pods).  Italian type:  Roma II.  Pole types:  Kentucky Blue
and FM-1K (Blue Lake types), Cascade Giant (Oregon Giant type, except it is
round-podded instead of flat-podded).  Eastern Oregon, bush types:  Wonder-
green and Apollo, both are curly top resistant.  Bush yellow pod:  Puregold,
Sunrae.  Bush Romano types: RomaII, Romano FM 14.  Bush yellow Romano:  Wax
Romano 264

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Crookham Co. Caldwell, ID 83606
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Select Seeds, Foss Hill Road, Albion, Maine 04910
Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4272 Boise, ID 83711
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Territorial Seed Co.  POB 27, Lorane, OR 97451
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

SOILS

      Beans do best on well-drained silt loam soils.  Sandy loams are satis-
factory but require more frequent irrigation.  Avoid soils that crust badly
and those with high salt content.  Beans produce best on soils which are
neutral or slightly acidic.  Lime should be applied if pH levels are below
5.8.  Follow soil test recommendations.

      Rotate beans with grains or other crops to reduce damage from soil-
borne diseases.  Crop residues of lettuce, carrots, cabbage, parsnips, and
cucurbits may harbor white mold sclerotia.   

SEED TREATMENT
     
      Use fungicide and insecticide treated seed.  Processors may have reco-
mmendations specific to their needs.  Consult with individual companies.  

SOIL TEMPERATURE

      Good germination is obtained at soil temperatures of 60 F to 84 F. Seed
rot is a serious problem at lower temperatures, and seedling injury from soil
incorporated herbicides may be increased due to longer exposure 
times for slow germination.

SEEDING AND SPACING

      In western Oregon, green beans are planted from about the end of April
to the end of June.  Planting of wax beans and Romano beans starts a week
later and ends a week earlier.

      In eastern Oregon, beans are planted from about the first of May to
about mid June.  The small number of acres grown in eastern Oregon, allows
planting to be limited to the optimum period.

      Green and wax beans number approximately 100-125 per ounce.  Always
handle bean seed with care.  Rough handling lowers the percentage of germi-
nation and increases numbers of crippled seedlings.

      Seed 6 to l0 seeds per foot of row l8 to 30 inches apart or as required
to fit available cultivating, spraying and harvesting equipment.  Although
close spacings have been thought to increase probability of infections from
gray and white mold, experience with close row spacings and high plant
populations since the 1970's suggest that this might not be the case, espe-
cially when close spacings are coupled with increasing the distance between
plants in the row, and the availablity of effective fungicides. 

      Reducing the distance between rows AND increasing the distance between
plants, increases the number of pods (yield) per acre and reduces the number
of beans per plant.  This results in pods being born closer to the stem and
higher in the plant canopy and plants being more upright. These factors tend
to compensate for the reduced air drainage resulting from closer rows, and may
result in such plantings being no more susceptible (but probably no more
resistant) to gray and white mold than conventionally spaced beans under
normal conditions.

      Aim for a final plant stand of l20,000-l75,000 (depending on between row
spacing) plants per acre.  This is usually 65 to 130 lb./acre of seed depend-
ing upon seed size and germination percentage.  Use the high seeding rates
with reduced spacing between rows.  This allows increased distance between
plants in the row (5 plants per foot at 15 inch spacing between rows equals 10
plants per foot at 30 inches between rows).  Appropriate spacings between rows
at the higher plant populations would be 12-20 inches.   Spacings under 12
inches between rows are difficult to accomplish with current planters.

      Romano types should be planted at lower populations of 90,000-100,000 to
reduce problems from mold.

      Plant at a uniform depth and spacing of l - l l/2 inches. Use shallow
depths with early planting dates.  Plant deeper when soil surface is dry. 

      For garden pole beans, seed 4 to 6 seeds per foot of row and space rows
5 l/2 feet apart.

FERTILIZER

      In the production of vegetable crops, good fertilizer usage is only one
of the important management practices, including proper seeding, pest control,
adequate irrigation, and timely harvest.  Because of the influence of soil
type, climatic conditions, and other cultural practices, crop response from
fertilizer may not always be accurately predicted.  Soil test results, field
experience, and knowledge of specific crop requirements help determine the
nutrients needed and the rate of application.  

      Fertilizer applications for beans should insure adequate levels of all
nutrients.  Optimum fertilization is intended to result in for top quality and
yield, commensurate with maximum returns.  

      Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs.  The Oregon State University Extension Service
agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil
sample bags and information sheets.  

      Recommendations are based on a row spacing of 30".  With decreased row
spacings fertilizer rates should be increased.  Use the following recommended
guidelines:

For WESTERN OREGON:

                               NITROGEN (N)

      Rates of 50 to 80 lbs of N/A are generally recommended where beans are
grown on fields having a history of heavy fertilization and intensive culture. 
Rates of 80 to 110 lbs of N/A are recommended where forage legumes or heavily
fertilized vegetable crops were not grown the preceding year.  

      N plus potash (K2 O) applications should not exceed 90 lbs./A when
between row spacings are 36 inches, or 108 lbs./acre for 30 inch spacing. 
There is danger of seedling injury from the concentration of salt when
fertilizer in excess of the above rates is banded at planting time, also:  

      *  There is less danger if the row application is split into two bands. 
      *  The danger is aggravated as the band comes closer to the seed.  The
danger is greater with sandy than with finer textured soil.
      *  Immediate irrigation at the first sign of burn should reduce further
injury.  
      *  There is more possibility of damage to seedlings on acid soils where
the pH is below 5.5.

                              PHOSPHORUS (P)

      Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at planting for vigorous early
seedling growth.  Bands should be located 2 to 3 inches to the side and 2 to 3
inches below the seed.  


      Response is greatest from bands properly placed at 2 x 2 inches.  

          If the OSU soil test             Apply this amount of 
          for P reads (ppm):            phosphate (P2 O5) lb/A:

                     0 - 15                  120 - 150
                    15 - 60                   90 - 120
                     Over 60                   60 - 90

                               POTASSIUM (K)

      Potassium should be applied before planting or banded at planting time. 
Amounts above 60 lbs K2 O per acre should be broadcast and worked into the
seed bed.  

      See statements on fertilizer banding under "NITROGEN."

               If the OSU soil test    Apply this amount of
               for K reads (ppm):      potassium(K2 O) (lb/A)

                     0 - 75                  90 - 120
                    75 - 150                 60 - 90
                   150 - 200                 40 - 60
                    Over 200                   None

      In Western Oregon, avoid using chloride forms of potassium for that
which maybe put in the band.  There is some research evidence that indicates
that these forms may increase manganese solubility and cause manganese
toxicity.

                                SULFUR (S)

      Include 20-30 lbs/A of S in the fertilizer program for bush beans.  S is
sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N,
P, and K, but may not be present in sufficient quantity.  

      Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate.  Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.  

      Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes
available to plants.  The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually
rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil.  

      S in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time.  Some S fertili-
zer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an acidifying
effect on soil.  

      The S requirements of Bush beans can be provided by:
      1.  The application of 20-30 lbs S/A in the form of sulfate at or prior
to seeding.  
      2.  Applying 30-40 lbs S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental
S the preceding year.  
      3.  Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre-
quently.  

                              MAGNESIUM (Mg)

      When the soil test value is below 1.5 meq Mg/100g of soil or when cal-
cium (Ca) is ten times more than the Mg, apply 10 to 15 lb Mg/A banded at
planting.  If deficiency symptoms appear, spray with 10 lbs Epsom salts in 100
gals of water/A.  

      Mg can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material and
reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone.  Dolomite
should be mixed into the seed bed several weeks in advance of seeding.  

                                 BORON (B)

      Responses of bush beans to B applications have not been observed in
experiments on growers' fields in western Oregon.  

      Fields which have received recent heavy B applications should be soil
tested for B.  If the soil test indicates 2.0 ppm B or above, there is danger
of injury to beans.  

                                 ZINC (Zn)

      The application of Zn has increased the yields of bush beans in the
Stayton area especially on the gravelly, dark colored soils.  

            If the OSU soil test             Apply this amount
            for Zn reads (ppm):                 of Zn (lb/A):
 
             Less than 1                 3-4 banded or10 broadcast
               Over 1                              None

      When the soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected on
all soils.  
      When the soil test is between 1 and 1 1/2 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is
expected on most soils in the Stayton area.  

      Where Zn is required, either 10 lb/A of Zn should be broadcast and
worked into the soil prior to planting or 3 to 4 lbs/A of Zn should be banded
with the fertilizer at planting time.  
    
      A broadcast application of 10 lb Zn/A should supply Zn needs for 2 or 3
years.  
                                   LIME

      Lime applications should be made when the soil pH is 5.8 or below, or
when calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq Ca/100g of soil.  

      Possible seedling injury from the band application of fertilizer is less
when the soil pH is 5.5 or above.  Some Willamette Valley experiments with
beans have shown decreased uptake of phosphorus from band applications of
phosphorus when the pH approaches 5.0.  

             If the OSU SMP Buffer          Apply this amount
             test for lime reads:             of lime (T/A):

                     Below 5.2                  4 - 5
                     5.2 - 5.6                  3 - 4
                     5.6 - 5.9                  2 - 3
                     5.9 - 6.2                  1 - 2
                      Over 6.2                     0

      The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.  Lime should be mixed into
the seed bed at least several weeks before seeding.  A lime application is
effective over several years.  

      Do not apply lime when the soil pH is above 6.0.  Yields were reduced in
Willamette Valley experiments when lime raised the soil pH to 6.5.  
      Phosphorus, K, Mg, Zn, B, and lime recommendations are based on soil
test values from the Soil Testing Laboratory, OSU, Corvallis, Oregon.  

      This guide is largely based on the results of experiments conducted by
Horticulture and Soils Department researchers of the OSU Agricultural Expe-
riment Station, and is quoted from OSU Fertilizer Guide FG28.

EASTERN OREGON, east of the Cascades:

                                             lbs. per acre
    
                   Nitrogen (N):                 50-80
                   Phosphorus (P2 O5):           50-100
                   Potassium (K2 O):             up to 50
                   Sulfur (S):                   20-30



Garden Pole beans  

      At time of seeding, band 60 - 80 lb./acre of nitrogen and ll0 to l50
lb./acre of phosphate (P205) 2 inches to the side of the seed and 3 to 4
inches deep.  Broadcast and disc in up to 90 lb./acre potash (K20) before
planting.  Just prior to blossoming, side-dress with 35 lb./acre of nitrogen.

IRRIGATION

      Irrigation is not recommended until about 2 weeks after planting.  Too
much water at seeding slows growth and may increase root rots.  

      During the rest of the season, keep moisture levels in the top foot of
soil at or above 50% of available water.  To avoid any water stress the two
critical times during bean development are during bloom and pod set.  It is
advisable to irrigate in the early morning hours so the plants may dry off
before the night.  A total of 10" - 16" may be needed in western Oregon
depending on location planting date, seasonal variation and variety.

      Approximate summer irrigation needs for the Hermiston area have been
found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.

HARVESTING AND HANDLING

      In western Oregon, green bean harvest is generally from about July 10 to
the end of September.  Wax bean harvest is from about mid July to mid Septem-
ber, and Romano beans from the first of August to mid September. The prime
harvest season for the Willamette valley is between July 25 and the end of
August for green and wax beans, and between August 1 and 25 for Romano beans.

      In eastern Oregon, grean beans are harvested from about late July to mid
September.

      Yields of snap beans for processing average approximately 6 tons/acre,
with good yields at 8 tons/acre, in the Willamette Valley.  Fresh market bean
yields are reported as averaging approximately 35 cwt./acre with good yields
at 100 cwt./acre.  

      All beans for processing and some fresh market beans are machine har-
vested.  Bean fields intended for processing are picked with self-propelled
machines that pick 3 or more rows at a time.  Fresh market beans are either
picked by hand or with tractor-pulled single, or self-propelled multiple row
machines.  When fresh market beans are machine harvested, they are further
hand-sorted and graded before packaging for market.

      Harvest is started when a graded sample contains about 50% No. 4 sieve
size and under.  The actual sieve size percentage will vary depending on
processor needs and the bean variety.  Protect harvested beans from heat and
sun and deliver to processor or buyer as soon as possible.

STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Store at 40 to 45 F. and relative humidity of 95%.  Green beans should
be stored for only a short period (7 to 10 days) between 40 and 45 F.  Even
these temperatures cause some chilling injury but are best for short storage. 
Snap beans are cold sensitive and may be severely chill-injured in a few days
at temperatures of 38 F. and below.  Chilled beans develop surface pitting and
russeting a day or two after removal to warm temperatures for marketing. 
Tendergreen beans can be held for about 2 days at  31 F., 4 days at 35 F., or
12 days at 42 F. before chilling injury is induced.  Cultivars differ signifi-
cantly in their sensitivity to chilling.

      Russeting is aggravated by free moisture and is especially noticeable in
the centers of containers, where condensed moisture remains.  Beans should not
be top iced if they are to be held at higher temperatures later.  Snap beans
are highly perishable and should be cooled rapidly after harvest, preferably
to 40-43 F.  They can be effectively vacuum cooled or forced-air cooled, but
hydrocooling is preferable not only because cold water cools rapidly but also
because the free moisture helps prevent wilting or shriveling.  Snap beans
lose moisture rapidly if not properly protected by packaging or by a relative
humidity of 95% or above.  When the relative humidity approaches saturation,
as in consumer packages, temperatures above 45 F. must be avoided or decay is
likely to be serious within a few days.

      Beans can be held about 10 days at 40 F. if they are utilized immedia-
tely after storage, as for processing.  Longer storage or holding at tempe-
ratures above 45 F. will hasten yellowing and the development of fiber.

      Containers of beans should be stacked to allow abundant air circulation. 
If containers are packed close together, the temperature may rise because of
the heat of respiration, and the beans will deteriorate rapidly.  When beans
are stored in large bins or pallet boxes, provision should be made for rapid
cooling.  Beans stored too long or at too high a storage temperature are
subject to various decays, including water soft rot (Sclerotinia spp.),
cottony leak (Pythium butleri), gray mold (Botrytis cinerea), and rhizopus rot
(Rhizopus spp.).

      Beans principally benefit from use of a controlled atmosphere (2 to 3%
oxygen and 5 to 10% carbon dioxide) because it retards yellowing.  Also, the
discoloration of broken ends of beans awaiting processing can be controlled by
holding them in 20 or 30 % carbon dioxide for 24 hours.

PACKAGING

      Beans are commonly packaged in 26-3l lb. bushel wirebound crates and
bushel hampers; or 20-30 lb. cartons.



ENTERPRISE BUDGET

      The following summary information has been taken from the bush bean
enterprise budget for bush beans for processing, developed in 1993 by Bob
Lisec, Dan Mc Grath, and Tim Cross, Oregon State University Extension Service: 
The bush bean budget estimates total variable costs of $568.81 per acre and
total fixed costs of $238.54 per acre, resulting in $807.35 per acre for total
cost of production.  The break even price needed to cover variable costs is
$87.50 per ton, and the break even price needed to cover all costs is $124.20
per ton, based on a normal yield of 6.5 tons net per acre.  For the complete
budget and assumptions used contact one of the above-mentioned authors.

                             PEST CONTROL FOR BEANS

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultivation
on field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical
weed control.  

ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION

Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide.  In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant.  The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device.  Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant.  Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.

Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.

Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix:  Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated char-
                  coal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural vermiculite.  
                  If severe dustiness is a problem, add a small amount of
                  water.  Apply 1 ft3  of mixture/600 ft. of seeded row or
                  approximately 15 cu.ft/A.  Fill the seed furrow using a
                  positive feed applicator and press with a press wheel.

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY

According to USDA standards and processor quality, harvested beans must be
free of nightshade berries, Canada thistle buds, pigweed stems, or mustard
pods.  Crop rotations, close row spacings, early season weed control, and
cultivation (except in rocky or clod soils) are combined with herbicides to
minimize weed competition and contamination of product.
___________________________________________________________________________

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.    Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve    
      maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures  
      and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.    Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed  
      will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.    Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the    
      field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed    
      weeds.

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                              0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A     
  Gramoxone Extra     
  (see remarks)                                

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply    
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to  avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to
      form insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not
      apply preplant or pre-emergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate              Consult Labels            
  Roundup                                      
  Roundup RT                                   
  (E. Washington     
  and Idaho only)                              
  or Honcho +                                  
  nonionic surfactant                          

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      preparation or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label
      for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species control-
      led.  Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while
      perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a surfactant or
      ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed.  Do not
      apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops within 
      12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino acids
      and protein synthesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT INCORPORATED 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTC                                            3 to 4 lb ai/A             
  Eptam                                         
  (not adzuki, cowpeas,
  lima beans and flat                                
  podded beans, except Romano)                                

      Apply preplant to soil dry enough for thorough mixing and incorporate 2
      to 3 inches deep immediately by cross-disking, rototilling, or sub-
      surface application beans can be planted immediately.  Suppresses growth
      of yellow nutsedge, but does not kill tubers.  In the Willamette Valley,
      experience suggests that rates may be reduced to as low as 1.5 lb ai/A
      when mixed with trifluralin.  (Inhibits shoot growth). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin                     0.5 to 0.75 lb ai/A           
  Treflan                                       

      Apply preplant and incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep within 24 hours or
      less by cross-disking or using a PTO rotary tiller.  Spray only once and
      avoid overlapping.  Erratic plant growth, enlarged stems below the soil
      surface, and poor root growth have been observed when maximum labeled   
      rates were applied uniformly in fields with slight variations in soil
      type.  Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 12 to 20
      months.  (Inhibits mitosis in both shoots and roots).       
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
pendimethalin                                        0.5 to 1.5 lb ai/A        
  Prowl                                         
  
      Label describes preplant incorporation, but crop injury and yield losses
      have been observed under cool, wet conditions.  Adjust rates depending
      on soil texture and organic matter.  Do not feed bean vines or graze
      livestock in treated fields.  Weak on mustard and composite (sunflower)
      weeds.  (Inhibits mitosis in both shoots and roots.) 
______________________________________________________________________________

PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED (PRE TO CROP AND WEEDS) 
 
Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor                     1.5 to 3.0 lb ai/A        
  Dual                                          

      Apply either preplant within 14 days of planting and mechanically
      incorporate in top 2 inches of soil, or apply preemergence behind the
      planter and activate with 1 inch overhead irrigation or rainfall.  May
      delay maturity and/or reduce yield if cold, wet soil conditions occur
      after planting.  Weak on mustard weeds.  Do not graze crop residue or
      feed canning wastes to livestock for 6 weeks following treatment.
      (Inhibits roots and shoots.)                         
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA                                4.5 to 10.5 lb ai/A   
  Dacthal                                       

      Often performs erratically in western Oregon.  Elsewhere, apply immedi-
      ately after planting and activate with ample irrigation or rainfall. Do
      not graze treated areas or feed plant parts to livestock.  Consult label
      for replanting sensitive crops within 8 months.  See Dry Bean section  
      for additional information.  (Inhibits mitosis).          
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon                              0.75 to 1.0 lb ai/A      
  Basagran                                      

      Apply to small, rapidly growing annual broadleaf weeds after first
      trifoliate bean leaf is fully expanded.  Temperatures below 75 F day or
      55 F night and require newly emerged weeds and may provide only partial
      control or suppression.  Temporary yellowing, bronzing, speckling, or
      burning of leaves may occur, but beans usually continue growth with
      minimal delays in pod maturity.  Addition of crop oil concentrate may
      increase injury and reduce or delay yields.  Do not tank-mix with other
      pesticides, apply within 30 days of snap bean harvest, not exceed 4
      pints/A per season.  (Inhibits photosynthesis.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim                    0.19 to 0.28 lb. ai/A
 Poast             

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.  Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
      leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
      or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility.  Resis-
      tant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
      quackgrass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 15 days of harvest,
      nor exceed 4 pints/A per year.  (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell
      membranes, and new growth.) 
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                 Control, Active Ingredients Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, including                           malathion - 1.0 to 1.5 lb      
Bean aphid                                          
                                            diazinon - 0.5 to 0.75 lb 
Aphis fabae                                         
                                            Phorate or Thimet 20G -      
Black plant louse that colonizes             0.9 to 1.4 oz ai/1000 row ft.
leaves and pods. May occur                            
early in season, but most com-              Phosdrin - 0.25 lb           
monly found later in summer.                          
                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 2 lb        
                                              Do not feed vines.         
            
                                            dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.5 lb   
 
                                            endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb      
                                                                          
                                            Dibrom - 1 lb     
                                            Do not feed treated vines.
                                            By-product waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.    
       
                                            Orthene - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
                                            Do not feed treated vines.
                                            By-product waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.

                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
                                            Pyrethrins and Rotenone

                                            Diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation.
                                            Diatomaceous earth and 
                                            Pyrethrins
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Armyworms and                               carbaryl - 1.5 lb
Cutworms                                                                
                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
Full-grown larva 1 inch long,                                           
greenish with a broad, dark,                Orthene - 0.75 to 1.0 lb     
lateral band, edged with a nar-             Do not feed treated vines.
row white line.  Larvae tend to             By-produce waste at processing
defoliate pigweed and later mi-             plants may be fed to livestock.
grate to vegetable crops.
                                            Bacillus thuringiensis -
                                            1 to 2 qt Armyworms only.          
                                            Add an appropriate spreader- 
                                            sticker to enhance control.  
                                            Most effective on small      
                                            larvae.                      
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan                            Dyfonate - 2 lb 
Scutigerella immaculata                     
                                            Mocap - 2 to 3 lb    
Small, white, centipede-like                                        
animals active in soil.                     Telone II - preplant    
                                                                    
                                            Telone C-17 - preplant  
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grasshoppers                                dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.5 lb  
                                                                         
                                            Phosdrin - 0.5 lb            
                                                                         
                                            malathion - 1 lb             
                                                                         
                                            carbaryl - 0.5 to 1.5 lb     
                                                                         
                                            Orthene - 0.25 to 0.5 lb     
                                            By-produce waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.

                                            Nosema locustae - use as 
                                            manufacturer directs.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lygus bugs                                  dimethoate - 0.5 lb           
Lygus spp.                                                        
                                            Phorate 0.9 to 1.4 oz ai/1000
Adults 3/16 inch long with a                  row ft.
light yellow "V" on backs. Feed                
on pods and beans. Can cause                Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb     
blemishes on developed bean                                               
seed. Damage is only of con-                carbaryl - 1.0 to 1.5 lb          
cern to fresh market beans.                                               
Blanching of processed beans                Orthene - 0.5 to 1.0 lb       
removes discoloration.                      Do not feed treated vines.
                                            By-product waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.

                                            Malathion - 1.25 lb   
                                                                         
                                            Dibrom - 1 lb     
                                            Do not feed treated vines.
                                            By-product waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.
                                                                        
                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
                                            Pyrethrins and rotenone
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nitidulid beetle                            Most insecticides used    
Meligethes nigrescens                       for aphids or other
                                            pests of beans reduce  
Small, black beetle that infests            nitidulid populations. 
blossoms from mid-July to mid-
August. May cause blossom drop, 
but control is unnecessary unless 
population is very high.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pea leaf weevil                             No products currently 
Sitona lineata                              registered for this use.

Adults small, grayish-brown weevils 
about 1/6 inch long.  May appear on 
beans in late summer in Willamette Valley.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seedcorn maggot                             Phorate 0.9 to 1.4 oz
Delia platura                                ai/1000 row ft.
                                                                           
White larvae of fly, similar to             Dyfonate 4E, 10G - 2 to 4 lb   
the cabbage maggot. Attack
germinating seeds and may de-               Lorsban 50-SC - 1 oz ai/100 lb
stroy planting. Damage most                                 of seed.
serious during cool, wet                    
weather.                                    diazinon 50W - 0.25 oz ai/bu

                                            Germate Plus - 1.8 oz. of
                                             formulation/50 lb. seed.  
                                             Use planter box treatment. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------




Slugs                                       metaldehyde baits.  Do not 
Gray garden slug                            contaminate edible plant parts.
Agriolimax reticulatus                      Use as needed, but not more often
                                            than once per week.  See supple-
Damage mostly to germinating                ment, Slug Control.
seeds and seedling plants.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites                                Dicofol or Kelthane - 
Tetranychus spp.                             0.33 to 1.5 lb

Tiny spiderlike animals located             Comite - 1.6 to 2.4 lb
on undersides of foliage. Feed                             
on plant juices and cause yel-              Dibrom - 1 lb                
lowing and browning of leaves.              At least 2 applications at 7 to    
Not usually a problem in Western            10 days intervals necessary.  Do
Oregon.                                     not feed vines.  By-product waste
                                            at processing plants may be fed
                                            to livestock.

                                            Di-Syston - 1 to 2 lb 
                                                                        
                                            Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb       
                                            
                                            dimethoate - 0.5 lb         
                                                                        
                                            Phosdrin - 0.5 lb                  
          
                                            Phorate 20G - 0.9 to 1.4
                                              oz ai/1000 row ft.    
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stick bugs                                  carbaryl - 2 lb
Different species                                         
                                            endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Brown or green bugs that feed on 
blossoms and beans with piercing,           Orthene - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
sucking mouthparts. Damage similar          Do not feed treated vines.
to that caused by lygus bugs.               By-product waste at processing
                                            plants may be fed to livestock.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cucumber beetles                           carbaryl - 1 to 1.5 lb            
including                                                             
Diabrotica                                 endosulfan - 0.5 to 1.0 lb 
undecimpunctata                                                       
                                           Lannate - 0.23 to 0.45 lb 
Yellowish-green, black-spot-                                          
ted beetle common to western               diazinon - 0.375  
Oregon. Adults attack and feed                                        
on seedlings, foliage, and pods.           malathion - 1.75 lb        

                                           methoxychlor - 1 to 3 lb   

                                           Pyrellin - 1.5 to 2 pt
                                            Pyrethrins and rotenone

                                           Diatect - 1 to 3 lb
                                            Diatomaceous earth and
                                            pyrethrins
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                  diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
Ctenicera and                                                      
Limonius spp.                              Dyfonate 4EC - 4 lb     
                                                                   
Brown, jointed larvae of click             Telone II - preplant    
beetles. Kill young plants,     
weaken older ones.                         Telone C-17 - preplant

                                           Germate Plus - 1.8 oz. of
                                           formulation/50 lb. seed.  
                                           Use planter box treatment.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

BEAN COMMON MOSAIC AND BEAN YELLOW MOSAIC

Cause:  Viruses carried by aphids--fairly widespread in their distribution. 
Bean Common Mosaic Virus (BCMV) (Bean Virus 1) is seed transmitted.  Bean
Yellow Mosaic Virus (BYMV) (Bean Virus 2) is not transmitted.  

Symptoms:  BCMV infection causes systemic mosaic symptoms consisting of a
green to bluish-green mottled or mosaic pattern on leaves which usually
exhibit a downward curling or cupping and general malformation. The mosaic
symptom is often associated with and follows the network of leaf veins which
become slightly darker than the interveinal area.  Another symptom of infec-
tion is venial necrosis or `road mapping' of leaves.  Systemic necrosis (black
root reaction), characterized by black vascular tissue in the stems and pods,
and death of plant, may occur in some varieties with a specific type of
resistance gene to BCMV.  These varieties are actually resistant to all
strains of BCMV under most conditions, but under high temperatures, infections
result in the black root reaction and death of the plant.  Plants arising from
BCMV-infected seed or plants infected very early in the season are dwarfed and
spindly, and the crop is often reduced.  BYMV typically causes a yellow and
green mottling, but different strains may also cause venial necrosis.  Leaves
are often brittle, glass, cupped downward, and may be malformed.  Both viruses
cause deformed pods, and the pod surfaces may be rough and shiny.

Control:  The only satisfactory control for bean common mosaic and some of its
variant strains is to use resistant varieties such as `Oregon 91G', `Oregon
54', `Roma II', `BB 110', and `Goldrush'.  Few good bean varieties have been
developed that are resistant to bean yellow mosaic.  Avoid planting beans near
sweet cover, crimson clover, red clover, or gladioli as bean yellow mosaic may
be transmitted from these plants to the beans.  Most varieties of commercial
dry edible and many snap bean varieties are resistant to one or more strains
of BCMV, but are susceptible to other stains which are newly reported.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CURLY TOP

Cause:  A virus spread by the beet leafhopper.  Other hosts include sugar
beets, watermelon, tomatoes, and cucurbits.  The disease is not uncommon in
the Columbia Basin, Idaho and central Oregon.  The virus overwinters in wild
perennial or winter annual host plants and is not seedborne.

Symptoms:  On young plants the trifoliate leaves develop a puckering and
downward curl.  This is followed by general chlorosis and death.  When older
plants are affected, they become chlorotic, dwarfed, bunchy, and the pods are
stunted.  All leaves become thicker than normal and, being very brittle, break
off easily at the stem.  Infected plants yield few or no pods. 

Control:  Use resistant varieties.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
HALO BLIGHT

Cause:  Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola (Pseudomonas phaseolicola, a
bacterium.  The bacteria may overwinter in the seed or infected plant parts
(trash) and is spread by rain, irrigation water, tools, humans, or equipment. 
Most lima beans are susceptible to the disease, but `OSU 91G' has moderate
resistance.  `Blue Lake' pole beans are not resistant but seldom become
naturally infected when field grown.

Symptoms:  

1.  The first symptom of the disease on the leaves is water soaked spots
followed by irregular brown spots on undersides of leaves.  Later the spot
shows through the upper surface and a yellow halo usually occurs around it.  A
bacterial sheen over the surface of the spot is often present.  Defoliation
occurs in severe infections.  Leaves on systemically infected plants may show
yellowing (chlorosis) and malformation without the appearance of much external
infection.  Systemically infected plants are often stunted.

2.  On the pods, sunken water-soaked spots appear, often with a bacterial ooze
on the surface.  The spots extend through the pod.  Later the spots become dry
and brown.

3.  On the stems, reddish waxy cankers develop, often girdling and killing the
plants.  

4.  On the seeds, sunken brown spots cause the seed to shrivel.

Control:

1.  Plant disease-free seed.  This is very important since all outbreaks of
the disease in the Pacific Northwest have resulted from the planting of
infected seed.

2.  Sprays with 1-3 lb/A of Kocide 101, or 1.5 to 4.0 pt/a Champ flowable at
7-10 day intervals will slow the spread of the disease if it is present in the
field.

3.  Use a 2- to 3-year crop rotation.  The bacteria overwinter in the undecom-
posed plant debris from the previous year's crop, and the longer beans are
kept out of a field that previously produced a diseased crop, the less chance
there is of contaminating the newly planted crop.

4.  Plow under plant debris as soon as possible after harvest to allow plenty
of time for the debris to disintegrate during the winter.  The usual practice
of plowing under the trash and then sowing a cover crop is good, except for
the trash that is along the edges of fields, along fence lines, etc.  Careful
flaming of these areas is suggested.

5.  If you cannot obtain disease-free seed, delay planting if possible.  The
frequent wet weather that occurs in the Willamette Valley in June is conducive
to the development and spread of halo blight.  Possible severe outbreaks of
halo blight will depend on whether or not the June weather is wet or dry. 
Planting late to miss the wet periods will reduce the inci-dence and spread of
halo blight.

6.  Avoid overirrigation with sprinklers.

7.  Do not work in infested fields that are wet with rain or irrigation water.

8.  Idaho law prohibits the importation of infected seed for increase.

Residues:  Copper exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SEED ROT AND SEEDLING BLIGHT

Cause:  Pythium and Rhizoctonia sp. (fungi).  Both seed rot and seedling
blight result from fungi that persist indefinitely in the soil.

Symptoms:  Seed decay or a rotting and damping off may occur in the young
seedling plants.  This is followed by wilting and death.

Control:  Seed treatment, or where Pythium sp. are a problem, apply Ridomil 2E
at the rate of 1 pt./13,000 lin ft of row in furrow or in a 7-inch band at the
time of planting or treat seed with 2 oz Apron 25 W/cwt of seed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


SEED TREATMENT

Apply one of the following chemicals according to label directions:  Apron,
captan, thiram, PCNB, or carboxin.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- BROWN SPOT

Cause: A bacterium, Pseudomonas syringae, which has been shown to be
seed-transmissible but is normally not found in seed grown in western states.
The disease is usually more of a problem in lima beans than in snap green
beans.

Symptoms: On the leaves small, round to oval, brownish-red spots appear,
normally more restricted than halo blight lesions. Under most conditions there
is a small amount of water soaking in the leaf, but under highly humid condi-
tions larger amounts of water soaking occur. The lesions normally have a small
indistinct yellowish margin.

On the pods the lesions are small oval spots, brownish red in color, preceded
by small water-soaked spots. The lesions are much more restricted than those
of halo blight. At times the bean pods seem to grow to avoid the spots causing
a zigzag appearance in the bean pods.

Control: This disease has been found only once and is not a serious problem in
Oregon's Willamette Valley but does cause problems in the Midwestern bean pro-
ducing areas. In the Midwest, the organism overwinters on vetch. Only
legume-specific strains of bacterium cause brown spot. Strains of Pseudomonas
syringae that cause diseases of stone fruits and pomaceous plants will not
cause brown spot on beans.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- GRAY MOLD

Cause: Botrytis cinerea, a fungus. This fungus lives on organic matter.  Its
spores are present in the air all through the growing season.  Cool,moist
conditions favor development of the disease.

Symptoms: All above-ground portions of the bean plant are attacked.  The
fungus attacks old blossom parts that have fallen or remained on the plant.
The fungus moves from these infected blossom parts into the healthy tissue.  

The symptom of the disease is water-soaked lesions, which later become covered
with gray spore masses. 

Gray mold is known to occur in southern Idaho at trace levels but is not known
to cause any significant losses.

Control:

1.  Gray mold is usually more severe when beans follow beans. Rotate out of
beans for at least 2 years when possible.

2.  Place the bean rows so prevailing winds blow along, rather than across
them. This reduces humidity and makes conditions less favorable for the
infection.  

3.  Proper spacing of the rows and the beans within the rows is important.
Overcrowding increases humidity, which favors infection.  

4.  In cooler areas irrigate heavily prior to bloom and as little as possible
thereafter.  Irrigation has less impact on the disease if plants dry within 12
hours.  This can be regulated by the time of day irrigation is applied. 

Fungicides: Apply Rovral 50 WP at 2.0/A - apply at 1 to 10 percent bloom and
again 5 to 7 days later in at least 40 gal water/A.  See rotation crop
restrictions on label and under residues.

Bravo 720 at 3 pt/a also has a registration.  Bravo does not control gray mold
as well as Rovral but may be only choice if Rovral resistance is a problem. 
Bravo-treated bean waste may not be fed to livestock.

Residues:

Rovral--The following crops may be rotated after harvest: garlic and leafy
vegetables.  The following crops may be rotated the year following treatment:
root crops, cereal grains, soybeans, and tomatoes.  Do not allow foraging for
14 days after last application of Rovral.  Do not feed snap bean hay to
livestock.  Do not feed dry bean hay to livestock until 45 days after last
application.  Do not feed succulent bean hay to livestock.

Bravo 720--Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.  Do not graze treated areas
or feed treated plant parts to livestock.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- NECROSIS DISEASE
(Sudden Death)

Cause: Clover yellow vein virus transmitted by the green peach aphid, the pea
aphid, the black bean aphid, and the clover aphid. Two or three subspecies of
Trifolium repens (white clover) are the principal reservoirs of the virus in
western Oregon.  Both clover yellow vein virus and strains of bean yellow
mosaic virus often occur in the same field.

Symptoms: First, the terminal leaf rolls downward and turns brownish in color.
Following terminal death, stem and leaf tissues die from the terminal down-
ward. Within 4 to 7 days the upper part or the entire plant may turn dark
brown and die.

Control: Management practices by the bean grower can substantially reduce this
disease in beans.

1.  Where feasible, eradicate white clover varieties from border or pasture
areas near fields used for bean production. Instead, grow red clover, alsike
clover, other hardy clovers, birdsfoot trefoil, or other agronomically
suitable legume species.

2.  Where white clover eradication is not feasible, select fields for bean
production that are separated from white clover stands by at least 100 meters.
This small degree of isolation will substantially reduce losses caused by the
bean necrosis disease.

3.  When possible, locate bean fields upwind (toward the prevailing summer
breeze) from clover fields or pastures containing clover. This further
minimizes infection due to aphid flights from clover to beans.

4.  Avoid planting beans in fields that contained white clover varieties the
previous year. Surviving or volunteer clover plants, particularly those in
border areas or within bean rows, may serve as a virus reservoir.

5.  Should aphicide application to beans be necessary during June or July for
black bean aphid or other species, spray should also be applied to field
border areas containing numerous white clover plants.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- ROOT ROT

Cause: Fusarium sp., fungi. Species of Fusarium live in the soil formany
years. They are spread on infected bean straw and by soil water.

Symptoms: The plants are stunted and the leaves are yellowish and often drop
early. At ground level and below, the main root may show a red dis-coloration
later turning black and decaying. The infection seldom spreads into tissues
above the ground level. Small side roots are killed, and, above them, second-
ary roots are developed which may also become infected and die. These second-
ary roots help maintain the plant and assist in crop development.

Control: Plant in well-drained soil practicing a long rotation with grass or
grain crops intervening for 5 to 6 years. Shallow cultivation may be helpful.
Hilling of vines is helpful because it promotes adventitious root production.

Research in Washington and Oregon has shown that subsoiling to a depth of 18
inches below the drill row just prior to planting increases bean yield under
severe root rot. Root rot is not decreased, but better root formation develops
to offset the disease's effect on the plant. This treatment is especially
effective on heavy soils or in soils which have a "plow pan."
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- RUST

Cause: Uromyces phaseoli, a fungus.  Rust has been of minor importance for
many years. The disease, when present, is generally widespread in the major
bean-growing area, the Willamette Valley.   

Symptoms: Early (June)--white blisters develop on the upper sides of the
leaves. In 2 to 3 weeks the lower side of the blister turns white and produces
a white "powder," the spores.

Summer (July)--brown powdery spots on both upper and lower leaf surfaces and
petioles. When infection is severe, many leaves are killed and the crop
reduced.
Late summer (August-September)--black powdery spots on both upper and lower
leaf surfaces and petioles. Killing of the leaves and a reduced crop.

Control:

A.  Plant resistant varieties.

B.  Prevent fungus carryover.

C.  Prevent infection in the field.

    1.  Dust with a finely divided sulfur (325 mesh or finer) containing       
        at least 80 percent sulfur. Make the first application as soon         
        as the first lesions or spots appear. Apply the dust at 20 to 40       
        lb/A, depending on size of plants at time of application. Continue     
        dusting at 7-day intervals until blossom time. The early applica-      
        tions of dust are especially important--they should be applied         
        before any rust is noticed. Control of rust by dusting is difficult    
        if the disease becomes established in a planting.

    2.  Chlorothalonil 1.04 to 2.21 lb ai/A. Do not apply within 7 days of     
        harvest.
   
    3.  Several wettable and flowable sulfur formulations have registrations   
        for this disease.

Residue:  Chlorothalonil. Do not graze treated area or feed treated plant
parts to livestock. Tolerance 5 ppm.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEAN (Snap) -- SCLEROTINIA DISEASE (White Mold)

Cause: Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, a fungus. This organism lives during winter
as sclerotia, attached to old bean stems or directly in the soil.  
Sclerotia are moved about on plant materials, and farm implements.  Sclerotia
in the top 0.5 inch of soil develop into muchroomlike growths which produce
spores.  These spores most frequently infect blossoms under cool, moist
weather conditions, and the infected blossoms fall on the plant structure,
spreading the disease.  Irrigation practices that keep the plants moist
overnight or keep the soil surface wet for extended periods (e.g., overnight)
are conducive to the development of white mold.

Other host plants include lettuce, dandelion, carrots, parsnips, cabbage,
peas, crucifers, potatoes, and cucurbits.

Symptoms: Young infected plants show water-soaked spots on the leaves,
petioles, and stems.  Older plants develop water-soaked spots and/or white,
creamy growths of the fungus anywhere on stems, petioles, leaves, or pods.
Most infections occur near the ground as a result of fallen, infected blos-
soms.  The fungus may also invade the pith of the main stem and cause most
leaves to turn yellow and to wilt.  Embedded in the external fungus growth are
compact sclerotia that are at first white, later darkening until they become
black.  
Control: (1) Provide adequate aeration between rows and within rows by
increased planting distance. (2) Deep plowing to bury sclerotia is beneficial.
(3) Rotate crops where land permits for at least 2 years out of beans or other
hosts of the fungus.  (4) Varieties that do not produce excessive foliage near
the ground level (open base types) tend to escape early-season infections.

Chemical Control:
Fungicides: In fields with a history of white mold, fungicide should be
applied at 10 to 25 percent bloom (10 to 25 percent of the plants in the field
have at least one open bloom).  A second application of fungicide 7 to 10 days
later is necessary with highly susceptible varieties or under heavy disease
pressure.  

Spray Materials:  Benlate 50 WP 2 lb/A. One application at 10 to 25 percent
bloom usually is sufficient. Under heavy disease pressure, two applications
should be applied, one at 25 percent bloom and one at full bloom.  Benlate may
be applied through sprinklers (Oregon and Idaho only).

Thiophante-Methyl (Topsin M)--apply 1.05 to 1.4 lb ai/A once at 50 to 70
percent bloom or 0.7 to 1.05 lb ai. Apply twice, once at 10 to 30 percent
bloom and the second 4 to 7 days later.

Rovral 50 WP 2.0/A--apply at 1 to 10 percent bloom and again 5 to 7 days later
in at least 40 gal water/A.  See rotation crop restrictions on label and under
residues.

Residues: Benomyl--tolerance 2.0 ppm in or on beans 50.0 ppm in or on vines
(forage). Limits 1.0 lb actual/A. Do not apply to snap or dry beans within 14 
days of harvest, or to lima beans within 28 days of harvest. Do not use where
crop is grown only for forage purposes.

Thiophante-Methyl--Tolerance 2.0 ppm in beans and 50 ppm in hay or forage. Do
not apply to beans within 14 days of harvest or lima beans within 28 days of
harvest.

Rovral--Garlic and leafy vegetables may be rotated after harvest.  Root crops,
cereal grains, soybeans, and tomatoes may be rotated the year following
treatment.  

Do not allow foraging for 14 days after last application of Rovral.  Do not
feed snap bean hay to livestock.  Do not feed dry bean hay to livestock until
45 days after last application.  Do not feed succulent bean hay to livestock.

Strategies for Control White and Gray Mold in the Same Field:

In the western valleys of the Pacific Northwest, both diseases at time occur
in one field.  In the last several years these problems have been controlled
by the use of Ronilan under a Section 18 label.  Since it is unlikely that
another Section 18 label will be obtained, other methods must be used to
control the diseases.  The facts that affect possible strategies are: Benlate
and Thiophanate-methyl control white mold well but slightly increase gray mold
because many gray mold strains are resistant to these fungicides.  Rovral
controls gray mold but is weak in the control of white mold.  Gray mold
strains resistant to Rovral do not survive well in the field.  Rovral has
plant-back restrictions.  Bravo controls gray mold poorly and does not control
white mold.  Bean waste treated with Bravo cannot be used as feed.

These facts suggest three possible programs for mold control, which are listed
with their pros and cons below.

1.    Use only Rovral for mold control.  Good control of gray mold but white
      mold, usually the more important problem, may not be controlled ade-
      quately.  Plant-back regulations apply.

2.    Use only Benlate or Thiophanate-methyl.  This program would work well
      unless an extended period of cool, moist weather occurred during the
      season.  Then, gray mold could cause large losses.

3.    Tank-mix or apply consecutively Rovral with either Benlate or
      Thiophanate-methyl.  These combinations should control both white and
      gray mold.  The full rate of each material in the combination certainly
      will give good control.  Mixtures with as little as a half rate of
      Rovral combined with a half rate of Benlate or Thiophanate-methyl should
      be adequate under moderate disease pressure.  Plant-back regulations
      apply.

In any of the above programs, control can be increased by reducing irrigation
during and after bloom and by selecting the times of day for irrigation that
limit plant wetness to less than 12 hours.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

         

         ---------------------------------------------------
         ---------------------------------------------------    
         This  information was prepared by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production  guidelines  from  public   institutions 
         in the  U.S.  and  Canada.   These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 97331. 
         ---------------------------------------------------  


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:01 EST 1995
Article: 56525 of rec.gardens
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From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Faq: Eggplant
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:12:59 -0800
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                                    EGGPLANT
                              Solanum melongena

VARIETIES (approximatelyh 65-85 days from transplanting in the Willamette
Valley).

      Purple and white varieties are available.  Shapes range from oval to
elongated.  Only the purple, medium to large oval types are of consequence in
the market.  There is an increasing demand for the purple elongated types for
specialty Oriental markets.  

      Purple types:

      Oval: Epic (10"x4"), Dusky (12"x4"), Avon (12"x4"), Black Bumper,
Tycoon, Beauty, Early Royal Hybrid, Classic. 

      Elongated: Vittoria (tapered, 13"x3", uniform), Vernal (12"x2 1/2"),
Little Fingers (to 12"x1 1/2"), Orient Express (very early, blotchy purple
10"x4" curved), Valentina, Ichiban, Black Shine.

      Round, or nearly so:  Toska (8"x6"), PS- 8280 (1 1/2" round marble)

      Novelty:

      White types:  Easter Egg Hybrid, Ghost Buster (6x7 inch oval), Casper
(elongated to 6").
      Light purple with white stripes:  Bride, Pingtung Long (twisted 12"x1
1/2" with white streaks).
      Purple with green stripes:  Minden Early.
      Purple with green and white stripes:  Farmers Long.

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
American Takii Inc., 301 Natividad Rd. Salinas, CA 93906
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910
Known-You Seed Co. Ltd. 26 Chung Cheng 2nd Road, Kaohsiung, Taiwan ROC
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Northrup King Co. Vegetable Seed Group, POB 1827, Gilroy, CA 95021
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

SOIL

      Choose well-drained, moderately fertile, sandy loam soils.  Use soil
tests for liming and fertilization applications.  Fertility requirements are
similar to those of tomato and pepper.

SEED AND SEED TREATMENT

      Eggplant seed numbers approximately 104,000 per pound.  Use treated
seed.  Plant only after soils reach 60 F, optimum germination 75-90 F. 
Advances is seed priming and coating can improve germination under cool soil
conditions.  Consult your seed dealer about the availability of primed seed.

TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION AND TRANSPLANTING

      Eggplant requires a long growing season, so transplants are most
commonly used.  They are usually started in the greenhouse or hotbeds.  Sow
seeds in shallow flats of soil mix 9 to 10 weeks before transplanting to the
field.  Constant temperatures must be maintained as young plants are easily
checked by cool temperatures or droughts.  Transplants grown in the greenhouse
should be kept at the following temperatures for best results:

      Days: 70 to 81 F; nights: 64 to 70 F. 

      Use transplants grown in jiffy pots or similar containers so as to
minimize shock of field transplanting. 

      Use starter solution made up of 3 lbs. of 10-34-0 in 50 gallons of water
and apply l/2 pint of this solution around the roots of each transplant at
time of planting.

SPACING

      Rows 3 to 4 feet apart, plants in the row 1.5 to 2 feet apart.

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  The
following recommendations are general guidelines.  Adjust pH to 6.0-6.8.

      Nitrogen: 75-120 (N) lb./acre                   
      Phosphate: 100-150 (P205) lb./acre                   
      Potash: 50-150 (K20) lb./acre
      Sulfur: 20-30 (S) lb./acre

      Side-dress with 30-50 lb./acre of nitrogen after the first flowers are
set.  In wet years apply an extra side dressing.  Where mulching and trickle
irrigation are practiced, additional nitrogen can be fed through the trickle
irrigation system at 15 lb./acre when the first fruit begins to set and an
additional 15 lb./acre four weeks later.  To prevent clogging or plugging from
occurring, use soluble forms of nitrogen (Urea or Ammonium nitrate) and
chlorinate the system once a month with a 10 to 50 ppm chlorine solution. 
Chlorinate more frequently if the flow rate decreases.

IRRIGATION

      Maintain uniform growth.  Eggplant may require 14-16 inches of water in
western Oregon, depending on seasonal variation and variety.  Approximate
summer irrigation needs for the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5
inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application. 

GROUND MULCHES AND ROW COVERS

      Black plastic ground mulches increase soil temperature, control weeds,
and conserve moisture increasing yield and earliness.  Black plastic ground
mulch is recommended for Western Oregon in particular.  A new generation of
plastic mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming
that is intermediate between black plastic and clear film.  These films are
called IRT (infra-red transmitting) films.  They are more expensive than black
or clear films, but appear to be cost-effective where soil warming is impor-
tant.

      Spun bonded polyester and polypropylene, and perforated polyethylene row
covers may be used for 4 to 8 weeks immediately after transplanting.  Covers
should be removed when plants begin to flower to allow proper pollination. 
Row covers increase heat unit accumulation by 2 to 3 times over ambient.  Two
to four degrees of frost protection may also be obtained at night.  Soil
temperatures and root growth are also increased under row covers as are early
yields, and in some cases total yields.  

POLLINATION

      Although eggplants have perfect flowers, and self-pollination would not
be expected to be a problem, bees are required for good pollination.  Usually,
wild bees are adequate, but if they are not present, bees should be provided.

HARVESTING AND HANDLING

      Approximate average yields of eggplants are 190 cwt./acre with good
yields about 250 cwt./acre.

      Harvest eggplant fruit when they have developed full bright color for
the variety, but while they are still firm to touch.  At this stage, the seeds
will be young, white, and tender and the flesh firm and white.  As the fruit
passes the prime stage for eating and becomes over-mature, the fruit surface
becomes dull, the seeds harden and darken, and the flesh becomes spongy. 
Prompt picking increases fruit set and yields.

      STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Eggplants should be stored between 45 and 55 F with a recommended humi-
dity of 90-95%.  Eggplant fruit are chilling sensitive at 50 F and below and
deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures, so they are not adapted to long
storage.  Pitting, surface bronzing, and browning of seeds and pulp are sym-
ptoms of chilling injury, and loss of sheen and wilting are symptoms of normal
deterioration.  Sensitivity of eggplants to chilling differs with cultivar,
maturity, size of fruit, and season of harvest.  Fruit harvested at optimum
maturity or in midsummer are more sensitive than those harvested at an
over-mature stage or in the fall, when the growing temperature is cool.  Thus,
eggplants harvested in midsummer can be held about a week at 55 F, whereas
those harvested in fall can be held about 10 days at 48 F.  Exposure to
ethylene for 2 or more days hastens deterioration.

      Wrapping eggplants with shrink film reduces weight loss and maintains
firmness, due to the high relative humidity.  However, wrapped eggplants decay
rapidly if the film is not perforated.  Shrink-film wrapped eggplants are
susceptible to decay caused by Botrytis cinerea and Phomopsis vexans, whereas
chilled eggplants are susceptible to decay by Alternaria when removed from
chilling temperature. 

PACKAGING

      Eggplants are commonly packaged in: 33 lb., 1-1/9 bushel containers or
wirebound crates; or cartons packed 18s and 24s, weighing 20-23 lbs.

                           PEST CONTROL FOR EGGPLANT

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.


ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION

Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide.  In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant.  The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device.  Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant.  Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.

Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.

Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix:  Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated             
                  charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural            
                  vermiculite.  If severe dustiness is a problem, add a        
                  small amount of water.  Apply 1 ft3  of mixture/600 ft.      
                  of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A.  Fill the         
                  seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press       
                  with a press wheel.

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.  Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
    maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures 
    and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.  Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed 
    will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.  Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the 
    field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed 
    weeds.

Weed Treatment             Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A
  Gramoxone Extra    
  (see remarks)                                

      Restriced-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
______________________________________________________________________________


PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide                1 to 2 lb ai/A   
  Devrinol         

      Apply and incorporate uniformly 1 to 2 inches deep.  Use lower rates on
      light, sandy, or coarse-textured soils.  Following harvest, deep mold
      board plowing or disk plowing must be completed before planting succeed-
      ing crops.  (Inhibits roots of seedlings). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA                    9 lb ai/A                  
  Dacthal                                      
  (transplants only)                           

      Apply 4 to 6 weeks before transplanting to weed-free soil.  Soil should
      be moist and additional water applied for activation.  Performs poorly
      in western Oregon and  Washington.  Consult label forplanting sensitive
      crops within 12 months.  Results can be improved with overhead irriga-
      tion applied immediately   after spraying.  (Inhibits mitosis). 
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sethoxydim              0.29 lb ai/A 
Poast      

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.   Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
      leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
      or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resistant
      grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas quack-
      grass can be suppressed.  Do not apply within 20 days of harvest, nor
      exceed 4.5 pints/A per season.  (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell
      membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________












INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description        Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids                                      endosulfan - 0.5 lb        
Different species    
                                            Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb         
Yellowish-pink to pale green
plant lice. Suck plant juices.              Phosdrin - 0.25 lb  
                     
                                            Lannate - 0.225 - 0.9 lb     
                                                                          
                                            malathion - 0.6 lb    
                                                                          
                                            Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb           
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colorado potato beetle                      Rotenone - 0.3 lb       
Leptinotarsa decemlineata                                           
                                            carbaryl - 0.5 to 2 lb  
Adult is robust beetle with five                                    
yellow and black stripes on                 endosulfan - 0.5 lb     
back. Larva is reddish-orange,                                      
humpbacked with two rows of                 Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
black spots on each side.                                           
                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
                                                                    
                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites                                Dibrom - 1 lb                
Tetranychus spp.                                                         
                                            malathion - 0.6 lb   
Tiny spiderlike animals located                                          
on undersides of foliage. Feed              Phosdrin - 0.25 to 0.5 lb  
on plant juices and cause yel-                                         
lowing and browning of leaves.              Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb    

                                            Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb     
                                                                      
                                            Vendex 1-2 lb  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Western potato flea beetle                  Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
Epitrix subcrinita                                                       
                                            methoxychlor - 1 to 2.25 lb    
Small, oval, shiny, bronze,                                                
jumping beetle. Feed on foliage.            azinphosmethyl - 0.5 lb   Do   
                                            not apply after fruit set.     
                                                                           
                                            carbaryl - 1 lb                    
                                                                               
                                            endosulfan - 0.5 lb               

                                            Metasystox R - 0.5 lb             

                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb     
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   Telone II - preplant
Limonius spp.
                                            Telone C-17 - preplant
Brown, jointed larvae of click
beetles.  Kill young plants,
weaken older ones.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

EGGPLANT -- ANTHRACNOSE

Cause: Gloeosporium, a fungus found on both peppers and eggplants.  This
fungus (like many other anthracnose fungi) is saprophytic during part of its
life cycle and may survive from year to year in the soil crop refuse.

Symptoms: Round sunken spots appear on both green and ripe fruits.  Spores
develop on the infections often in radiating circles around the center, which
later may contain masses of pink spores. The seed may be infected and often
seedlings have the disease, which later moves into the developing foliage.
Such infections are often unnoticed until the fruits start to grow, at which
time the fruit rot phase may become serious.

Control:

1.  Dust all plant refuse by burning or deep plowing.

2.  Rotate crops.

3.  Spray fixed copper fungicide.  See product label.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

EGGPLANT -- CERCOSPORA LEAF SPOT

Cause: Cercospora melongenae (mostly on eggplant), Cercospora capsici (mostly
on pepper), fungi. These organisms survive the winter on dead plant parts.

Symptoms: Leaf spot infections on eggplant are small, chlorotic, gray turning
to brown, with tiny, dark specks containing spores arranged in circular
fashion. Eggplant fruits are not attacked.  Leaf spot on pepper is at first
water-soaked and up to inch in diameter, later becoming tan in shade with a
dark marginal ring. Centers may often drop out as they age. Spots develop on
stems and petioles. When numerous, the leaves turn yellow and may drop or
wilt. Defoliation is often serious, exposing peppers to sunscald.

Control:

1.  Destroy by burning or deep burying old pepper and eggplant refuse.

2.  Use seed from disease-free areas.

3.  Rotate crops.

4.  Spray fixed copper fungicide.  See product label.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EGGPLANT -- LATE BLIGHT

See Potato and Tomato - Late Blight
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EGGPLANT -- ROOT ROT

Cause: Phytophthora capsici, a fungus. This soil-inhabiting organism causes
root rot in pepper and eggplants and is most active in moist, warm weather.

Symptoms: At soil level, dark-greenish, water-soaked spots occur which often
girdle the stem, causing the plants to wilt and die.  Foliage leaf spots
develop, which are often water-soaked and irregular in shape, later becoming a
light-brown shade. The fruit shows similar spots often enlarging to cover the
entire fruit, which later dries and becomes mummied.

Control:

1.  Plant only in clean soil where the disease has not occurred.

2.  Use disease-free seed.

3.  Practice light irrigation and crop rotation.

4.  Ridomil 2E can be used to control this problem.  A full program consists
of a preplant application followed by two postplant applications.  See product
label.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


EGGPLANT -- VERTICILLIUM WILT

Cause: Verticillium dahliae, a fungus organism. The Verticillium wilt organism
is a widespread soil inhabitant which affects a wide range of herbaceous and
woody plants.

Symptoms: Infected plants show a stunting of growth accompanied by yellowing
and inward rolling of the leaves. The disease development on eggplant begins
with a yellowing of the lower leaves, reduced size and vascular discoloration.
It is seedborne in the eggplant.  The fungus gains entry through the root
system, and progress in the plant is primarily through the vascular system.
Control:

1.  Old crop remains should not be left on the field or added to the compost
pile, as this encourages future infections.

2.  Crop rotation with nonsusceptible grasses and grains may be of some small
value, but nothing can really be done to eradicate this disease.

3.  Avoid tomatoes and potatoes in any rotation, as these are favorite hosts.

4.  There are as yet no resistant varieties.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________



         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production   guidelines  from  public  institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and  Canada.  These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions  
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 9733l.
         ---------------------------------------------------


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:03 EST 1995
Article: 56526 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Broccoli
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:14:18 -0800
Organization: Cal State Long Beach
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X-Status: 

                                BROCCOLI
                       Brassica oleracea (Italica Group)

      Broccoli, also known as Calabrese in England and much of Europe is
closely related to cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts and kohlrabi.  There
is considerable confusion in the scientific and lay literature regarding exact
nomenclature of these vegetables.  All will intercross readily and are
classified in the same genus and species.  

      To complete the confusion, seed catalogues (especially specialty
catalogues) may describe broccoli as heading or sprouting; summer, autumn, or
winter; green, purple, dark purple, copper or purplish-brown, sulphur-colored
or yellowish-green heading, or white-sprouting!  Only the green heading types
are discussed below.

VARIETIES (approximately 75-95 days from seeding, depending on variety, season
and planting date).

      Fresh Market:  Premium Crop, Green Comet (somewhat heat tolerant),
Emperor, Citation and Hi-Caliber.  For trial:  The varieties, Embassy, Pirate,
Buccaneer, and Sunre 8014 are reported to have some heat tolerance in other
areas and might be considered for trial.  Barbados is reported to have good
color.  Where club root may be a problem: Pirate and Oregon CR-1.

      Processing:  Processor specifies varieties to use.  The major variety
grown in western Oregon is Gem.  Others that have been grown are:  Emerald
City, Pirate (reported to have club root resistance), Baccus, Bonanza,
Arcadia, Hi-Caliber, Cruiser, Sunre 8015, Emperor, Citation, Neptune, Pakman
(somewhat heat tolerant).  For trial: Everest, Excelsior, Patriot, Barbados.

      Note:  Some new hybrids suitable for fresh market and/or processing have
resistance or tolerance to an number of important diseases:  Downy mildew,
black rot or both:  Everest, Premium Crop, Green Comet, Idol, Shogun (cool
season), Crusader, Citation, Hi-Caliber and Futura.  Resistance to Pseudomonas
sp. (not Erwinia sp). bacterial head rot:  Pirate, Shogun, Green Defender and
Green Valiant.  Resistance to club root: Pirate and Oregon CR-1.

      Novelty:  Romanesco type (unusual spiraled, light green heads): 
Minaret.  Kailaan type:  Green Lance Hybrid, Gai Lohn.  Broccoflower: 
Alverde, Macerta (really, green cauliflowers); Green Harmony (a true broccoli-
-cauliflower vegetable).

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
American Takii Inc., 301 Natividad Rd. Salinas, CA 93906
Brinker Orsetti Seed Co., 2339 A Technology Parkway, Hollister CA 95023-2513.
      408/636-4822
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Northrup King Co. Vegetable Seed Group, POB 1827, Gilroy, CA 95021
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4272 Boise, ID 83711
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sakata Seed America Inc. PO Box 877, Morgan Hill, CA
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

IMPORTANT

      Before planting this Crucifer crop, consider the following important
factors:
      1.  No crucifer crop, or related weed has been present in the field for
at least 2 years, 4 years preferable.  Crucifer crops include cabbage,
cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, all
mustards, turnips, rutabagas, radishes etc.  Cruciferous weeds include wild
radish, wild mustards etc.  Also, crucifer plant waste should not have been
dumped on these fields.
      2.  Soil pH should be 6.5 or higher.  Soil pH over 6.8 is necessary to
manage club root.  The application of 1500 lbs/acre of hydrated lime, 6 weeks
prior to planting is recommended for soils with pH less than 7.5 for club root
control (see Disease Control section for more details).
      3.  Arrange to keep transplanted and direct-seeded fields separate to
minimize spread of certain diseases that are more prevalent in transplanted
fields.

SOIL

      Broccoli may be grown on a variety of soils but it does best on a well-
drained, loam soil well supplied with organic matter.  Sandy loams are
preferred for early crops.  Adjust soil pH to 6.0 - 6.8 for maximum yields.

SEED AND SEED-BED TREATMENTS

      Broccoli seed numbers approximately 144,000 per pound.  Most broccoli
for processing and fresh market is direct seeded (see section on field seeding
below).  Pelletizing is not necessary but primed and coated seed is now
becoming popular.  Consult your seed dealer about the availability of primed
seed.  Some early production of fresh market broccoli is transplanted.

      Use certified, or hot-water and fungicide treated seed to protect
against several serious seed borne diseases.  Hot water seed treatments are
very specific (122 F exactly, for 25 to 30 minutes; the wet seed then quickly
cooled and dried).  The seed treatments are best done by the seed company, and
can usually be provided upon request.

TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION

      Seed Beds for transplants

      Locate these in an open, well drained area, free of club-root.  Lime if
necessary, and fertilize with 10-30-10 at 625 lb/acre or its equivalent.  
      When seedlings are to be grown in a seed-bed for production of trans-
plants, choose a site where cole crops have not been grown before, or fumigate
prior to seeding with: Methyl bromide, Vorlex, Telone II or DD according to
manufacturer`s recommendations.

      Always use certified or hot water treated seed for transplant produc-
tion.  Seed in a greenhouse for an early crop, in a cold frame for a less
early crop, and in outdoor seed-beds when the weather is warm enough for
germination and growth (above 50 F).  In each case seed 5-6 weeks ahead of
when the plants are wanted for transplanting.

      Four to 6 ounces of high quality, sized and density graded seed will
provide enough transplants to plant 1 acre.  In the seed-bed use a drill with
a scatter shoe to drop 15 to 20 seeds per foot in rows 10 inches apart.  

      Greenhouse transplant production

      Precision seed into modular flats, styrofoam trays or blocks of a peat-
lite (peat vermiculite) mix or other suitable growing medium.  Crowding should
be avoided. Provide 1.5-2.5 square inches per plant in modular trays.

      Temperatures should be maintained above 45 F at night and below 85 F
during the day.  Seven days before transplanting start the hardening off
process. 

      Follow the same process in a cold frame, or seed directly into the
covered soil after it has been limed, fertilized and fumigated as for outdoor
seed-beds.

FIELD SEEDING

      In western Oregon, broccoli is direct seeded in the field between mid
April and early July.  Fresh market broccoli, and late processing broccoli may
be seeded until the end of July.

      One-half to 1.5 lbs. of seed may be used per acre for direct seeding. 
In Oregon, broccoli is most commonly direct seeded at about 1 lb. of seed per
acre.  This allows for a pre-thinning spacing of about 45 square inches per
plant.  By careful attention to planting, and spacings, thinning costs could
be minimized.

      Processing broccoli is planted at a density of about 20,000 to 30,000
plants per acre to produce a large head size.  Choose an in-row spacing
arrangement that allows adequate plant density and easy thinning (some
multiple of the final spacing) which should be about 8-10 inches in the row. 
Between-row spacings should allow adequate access for cultivation and hand
harvest-aid equipment and labor.  A common practice is to alternate rows
spaced 12-14 inches apart with wider spacings of 28-30 inches for harvest
labor and wheel tracks.

      For fresh market, use spacings as indicated for processing but thin to a
final spacing of 6-8 inches in the row.

      Use a precision seeder, such as a Stanhay, or Gaspardo vacuum planter,
to drop a seed every 3-5 inches within the row.  Thin to the desired stand
after the first true leaves have formed.  Use only the highest quality, sized
and density graded seed.  

      Preparation for direct seeding needs considerable attention.  A mode-
rately fine-textured soil, free of rocks, clods and trash, firm and very
level, is required for precision seeding.  Tilling the soil excessively,
increases the risk of crusting.  Attempt to keep soil aggregates about 1/4 to
1/2 inch in size.

      To insure uniform and successful stand establishment, use vermiculite
anticrustant or have solid set irrigation available to keep soil moist and
free from crusting until the stand has been established.

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  The
following recommendations are general guidelines for western Oregon.

      Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses
are to be realized in the production of broccoli.  These practices include use
of recommended varieties, selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease
and insect control, good seedbed preparation, proper seeding methods, and
timely harvest.  

      Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other
cultural practices, crop responses from fertilizer may not always be accu-
rately predicted.  Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of
specific crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of
application.  

      The fertilizer application for broccoli should insure adequate levels of
all nutrients.  Optimum fertilization is intended to produce top quality and 
yields in keeping with maximum returns.  

      The suggested fertilizer applications are based on an 18" row spacing, 
with plants 9" apart in the row.  With decreased row spacings, increased
fertilizer rates are suggested.  

      Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs.  The Oregon State University Extension Service
agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions, soil
sample bags, and information sheets.  

      Where broccoli is direst seeded, see "field fertilization section below. 
If transplants are to be used, and if transplants are to be field grown,
fertilize transplant productions beds as follows:
                         TRANSPLANT BED FERTILIZATION

      Broadcast and work into the transplant bed:  

      1.  40 to 70 lbs Nitrogen/A.  

      2.  Apply phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, magnesium, boron, molybdenum,
and lime up to the maximum rates suggested below for field applications.  

                        TRANSPLANTING STARTER SOLUTIONS

      Dilute solutions of complete fertilizers high in phosphorus promote
quick recovery and early growth of transplants.  One-half pint of trans-
planting solution should be injected into the furrow at the roots of each
plant at time of transplanting.  A transplanting solution may be prepared by
dissolving   3 lbs. of 11-48-0 or similar mono-ammonium phosphate fertilizer
in a 55 gallon drum of water.

                              FIELD FERTILIZATION

NITROGEN (N)

      A total application of 150-200 lbs. N/A is suggested.  Growers in the
Willamette Valley often use rates of 250-300 lbs. particularly with varieties
where several harvests of side shoots would be desired for maximum yields. 
When high rates of N are used, stem splitting could become a problem. 
Research data indicates that stem splitting might be reduced if the extra N is
applied in several sidedressings rather than in one large application.

      Broadcast about half of the N just prior to direct seeding or trans-
planting or band 60-90 lbs N/A with the phosphorus.  For both direct-seeded
and transplanted crops, side-dress 75 to 100 lb./acre of nitrogen at time of
last cultivation, or 1 to 2 weeks before the first cutting.  At the higher
rates, use two applications, with the first application when the broccoli is
6-8 inches tall and the second about 2 weeks later. 

Nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulations having herbicidal effects:

      AN-20, Ammonium Thiosulfate and mixtures of these two materials can be
used successfully in a number of Brassica crops such as broccoli, cabbage, and
cauliflower.  The amount of nitrogen per gallon of material, the rate at which
it is applied, and the phyto-toxicity of the material determines what crops
these can be used on.

      All of these materials, when applied at the proper time and manner have
the added benefit of ancillary control of many small (less than 3 inches)
broadleaf weeds such as groundsell, pineapple weed, shepherdspurse, mallow,
pigweed, hairy nightshade chickweed and many others.  Poor, or no control is
obtained on lambs quarters, purslane, henbit, black nightshade, knotweed, sow
thistle, malva goosefoot and grasses.

      When using these nitrogen sources in foliar applications, follow cau-
tions listed.  Severe crop injury may occur if cautions are not observed.

      General cautions for the use of nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulations
are:

      *  Apply only after the crop has at least two true leaves.  Application
at between the 3rd and 4th true leaf stages is least likely to cause crop
injury.
      *  Do not apply within 4 days of a period of cool, cloudy or rainy
weather, or if free water is present on the leaves.
      *  Discontinue application if spray droplets do not roll off or "bead-
up" on the leaves.  This indicates a deficiency of adequate waxy cuticle, and
may be a temporary condition due to rapid growth, cloudy or rainy weather, or
more seriously, the lack of adaptability of the variety.
      *  Do not apply within 4 days after a foliar pesticide has been applied,
or with any wetting agent. 
      *  Use large nozzles to minimize misting and possible injury to the crop
growing point.
      *  Direct the spray to the base of the crop with wide, low nozzles, or
use crop shields whenever this can be done while still obtaining complete
coverage of the weeds.

      AN-20 fertilizer formulation:

      This is a manufactured 20-0-0 formulation (containing 20% N) that may be
applied at 50 to 70 gallons of product per acre as a foliar spray.  This
formulation weighs 10.55 lbs per gallon and contains 2.11 lbs N/gallon of
product and would provide approximately 100 to 140 lbs N/acre (but some N is
lost through volatilization).  Do not irrigate for 48 hours after application,
but irrigate then to move the fertilizer into the root zone.

      When this treatment is used, subsequent nitrogen side dressings may be
reduced by a portion of the amount of N applied in the treatment.

      Note:  Mixtures of An-20 and Ammonium thiosulfate (usually 1:1) can be
made which will reduce the amount of nitrogen applied, provide some sulfur (if
AN-20 only would have been applied, and reducing the sulfur if only Ammonium
thiosulfate were to be used), and be as effective as either material alone. 
Application rates are still held at 50 to 70 gallons of the mixture per acre. 

      Note:  This formulation is different from a solution that could be
prepared by dissolving ammonium nitrate in water.  Such a solution would not
have the same concentration or herbicidal effect.

      Also, To prevent crop injury, follow the cautions listed above.


                                  *****


Ammonium thiosulfate:

      This is a manufactured 12-0-0-26 formulation (containing 12% N and 26%
sulfur) and weighs 9.33 lbs per gallon.  It may be applied at 50 to 70 gallons
of product per acre as a foliar spray.  This solution contains 1.12 lbs
nitrogen and 2.4 lbs sulfur per gallon of product and would provide approxi-
mately 55 to 75 lbs N/acre (some N may be lost through volatilization).  At
the application gallonage mentioned, about 150 to 168 lbs of S are also
applied.  Do not irrigate for 48 hours after application, but irrigate then to
move the fertilizer into the root zone.

      When this treatment is used, subsequent nitrogen side dressings may be
reduced by a portion of the amount of N applied in the treatment.

      Note: Mixtures of An-20 and Ammonium thiosulfate (usually 1:1) can be
made which will reduce the amount of nitrogen applied, provide some sulfur (if
AN-20 only would have been applied, and reducing the sulfur if only Ammonium
thiosulfate were to be used), and be as effective as either material alone. 
Application rates are still held at 50 to 70 gallons of the mixture per acre. 

      Also, To prevent crop injury, follow the cautions listed above.

PHOSPHORUS (P)

      Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at the time of seeding or trans-
planting.  Bands should be located 2-3" to the side of the seeds or plants and
3-4" deep.  

         If the OSU soil test                    Apply this amount of 
          for P reads (ppm):                   phosphate (P2 O5) (lb/A):
 
               0 - 30                                 150 - 200
              30 - 50                                 100 - 150
              Over 50                                  80 - 100

POTASSIUM (K)

      Limit band applications of K to 90 lbs K2 O/A.  Broadcast remainder of K
and work into seedbed prior to planting.  The total of N plus K2 O in the band
should not exceed 90 lbs./A.  Apply K as follows:

             If the OSU soil test             Apply this amount of
              for K reads (ppm):              potash (K2 O lb/A):

                     0 - 150                     150 - 200
                   150 - 200                      90 - 150
                   200 - 250                      60 - 90
                    Over 250                        None



SULFUR (S)

      Include 25-40 lbs/A of S in the fertilizer pro gram.  S is sometimes
contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N, P, and K,
but may not be present in sufficient quantity.  

      Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate.  Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.  Elemental S must convert to sulfate
in the soil before the S becomes avail able to plants.  The conversion of
elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh)
material in warm moist soil).  

       Sulfur in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time.  Some S
fertilizer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an aci-
difying effect on soil.  

      The S requirements of crucifers can be provided by:  

      1.  The application of 25-40 lbs S/A in the form of sulfate at or prior
to seeding or planting.  
      2.  Applying 40-50 lbs S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental
S the preceding year.  
      3.  Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre-
quently.  

MAGNESIUM (Mg)

      When the OSU soil test value for Mg is below 2 meq/100g soil, band 15-
20 lbs Mg/A at transplanting or seeding time.  If Mg deficiency symptoms
develop, spray with 10 lbs of Epsom salts in 100 gals of water/A.  

      Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material
and reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone. 
Dolomite should be mixed into the seedbed at least several weeks in advance of
seeding and preferably the preceding year.  It can also be supplied by the
application of Epsom salts or Sul-Po-Mag fertilizer prior to seeding or
transplanting as follows:

      * Sul-Po-Mag at 150 to 200 lb./acre.  
      * OR  Epsom salts at 150 to 200 lb./acre.
      * OR  Dolomitic Limestone at 225 to 275 lb./acre.

BORON (B)

      Broccoli is sensitive to boron deficiency.  Apply boron as follows:

             If the OSU soil test                Apply this amount
              for B reads (ppm):                   of B (lbs/A):

                   0 - 1                          3 - 4 broadcast
                   1 - 3                          1 - 2 broadcast
                  Over 3                        1/2 - 1 foliar spray
 
      A satisfactory foliar spray contains 1 lb B/100 gals of water.  

      Fertilizers containing B should not be banded.

      Fields East of the Cascades or where winter rainfall is low, and to
which the higher rates of boron has been applied should not normally be
planted to beans or cucumbers the following year, as both these crops are
extremely sensitive to boron.

LIME

      If a mineral soil is below pH 6.3 or an organic soil is below 5.5 and/or
the calcium (Ca) level is below 8 meq/100g soil lime should be applied.  Com-
pared to other vegetables broccoli has a fairly high lime requirement.  

      The application of lime is suggested when the soil pH is below 6.3 

              If the OSU SMP Buffer             Apply this amount
              test for lime reads:               of lime (T/A):

                   Below 5.6                          5 - 7
                   5.7 - 5.9                          4 - 5
                   5.9 - 6.1                          3 - 4
                   6.1 - 6.3                          2 - 3
                   6.3 - 6.6                          1 - 2
                   Over  6.6                          None

      The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.  

      Lime should be mixed into the seedbed at least several weeks before
seeding and preferably the preceding year.  A lime application is effective
over several years.  

      Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.6) and a
low pH (below 6.0).  This condition can be caused by the ap plication of
acidifying fertilizer.  In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH
of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the
soil.  This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered follow-
ing recent applications of most nitrogen fertilizer materials.  Acidifying
fertilizers also have a long term acidifying effect on soil which is cumula-
tive and leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings.  

      Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some-
times record low pH and high SMP buffer values.  In such cases, a light
application of lime (1 to 2 ton/A) should suffice to neutralize soil acidity. 

      For acid soils low in Mg (less than 0.5 meq Mg/100g soil) one T/A of
dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source.  Dolomite and ground limestone have
about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity.  

      The P, K, Mg, B and lime recommendations are based on soil test values
from the Soil Testing Laboratory, OSU, Corvallis, Oregon.  

      These recommendations are largely based on the results of experiments
conducted by Oregon State University Agricultural Experiment Station Horti-
culture and Soils Department research faculty.  

      These recommendations are quoted from OSU Fertilizer Guide FG 27.

IRRIGATION

      After the stand has been established irrigate to maintain uniform soil
moisture.  About 10-14 inches of water may be necessary in western Oregon
depending on seasonal variation, variety, planting date and the number of
times the field is harvested.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.         

HEADING DISORDERS

      Blindness:  A percentage of the plants in the field form no heads at all
due to some injury.  The plant responds by producing numerous shoots at near
ground level.  The injury can be due to insect (cabbage maggot, lygus bug,
diabrotica) damage to the growing point usually when the plant is small, or if
these occur just at the beginning stages of head initiation.

      Leafy heads:  The presence of leaves within the head is often due to
high temperature coupled with lush growth due to excess water and nitrogen.

      Large, coarse buds:  Bud size is a function of variety, but all develop
large buds as the heads become mature.  High temperature and delayed harvest
may result in excessively large or open buds.  Varieties differ in their field
holding characteristics.

HARVESTING HANDLING AND STORAGE

      In the Willamette Valley, broccoli harvest for processing begins about
June 25 and continues to October 31.  The prime harvest period for processing
is July 15 to the end of September.  Harvest of fresh market broccoli may
extend through November.

      Yields of processing broccoli average approximately 5.5 tons/acre with
good yields at 7.5 tons.  Fresh market average yields are reported at 95
cwt./acre with good yields at 120 cwt./acre.

      Harvest broccoli heads when the buds are still small and tightly closed,
and before the heads are fragmented. Heads should be tight, and the individual
flowers in the clusters should not show yellow petals.  Side heads develop
rapidly in some varieties following removal of the terminal head, and harvest-
ing may continue for several weeks.    
      Broccoli is highly perishable, and it is usually held for only a brief
period as needed for orderly marketing.  If in good condition and held with
adequate air circulation and spacing between containers to avoid heating,
broccoli should keep satisfactorily 10-14 days if held at 32 F, 90-95%
humidity.

      STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):

       Store broccoli and 32 F. and relative humidity of 95 to 100 %.  Broc-
coli is highly perishable, and it is usually stored for only a brief period as
needed for orderly marketing.  Broccoli should be hydrocooled or packed in ice
immediately after harvest and kept at 32 F. to maintain good salable condi-
tion, fresh green color, and vitamin C content.  If in good condition and
stored with adequate air circulation and spacing between containers to avoid
heating, broccoli should keep satisfactorily 10 to 14 days at 32 F.  Longer
storage is undesirable because leaves discolor, buds may yellow and drop off,
and tissues soften.  The respiration rate of freshly harvested broccoli is
very high - comparable to that of asparagus, spinach, or sweet corn.  Thus,
like these crops, broccoli must be cooled immediately after harvest to rapidly
lower the respiration rate and be kept at low temperature for maximum shelf
life.

       A controlled atmosphere of 10% carbon dioxide and/or 1% oxygen can in-
crease the shelf life of good quality broccoli held above 40 F.  An atmosphere
with 10% carbon dioxide retards yellowing and toughening, and one with 15%
carbon dioxide has the same retarding effect but can induce persistent off-
odors.  A 1% oxygen atmosphere retards yellowing but one with 0.1 to 0.25%
oxygen can cause severe injury and result in off-odors and off-flavors in
cooked broccoli.  Film wraps can be beneficial in maintaining high relative
humidity and extend the storage life.  They should be perforated or be
sufficiently permeable, however; otherwise, an atmosphere that causes injury
and/or off-odors, particularly at 32 F., may develop within the wraps. 
Broccoli should not be stored with fruits, such as apples or pears, that
produce substantial quantities of ethylene, because this gas accelerates
yellowing of the buds.

PACKAGING

      For fresh market two or three heads are bunched together and packaged
14-18 bunches per 20-24 lb. "half carton" container.  Containers should be
liquid iced for quick cooling and maximum shelf life.     

                           PEST CONTROL FOR BROCCOLI

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY

Weed suppression in crucifers begins by rotating crops that involve different
weed control practices or herbicides to disrupt weed life cycles.  Row
spacings and plant densities vary to achieve head size depending on the market
and to suppress weeds.  Early season weed control comprises application of an 
herbicide and/or cultivation(s).
____________________________________________________________________________

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.    Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve    
      maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures  
      and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.    Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed  
      will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.    Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the    
      field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed    
      weeds.

Weed Treatment          Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                              0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A 
  Gramoxone Extra    

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply   
      during or after planting, but  before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form 
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
      living cells.) 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate                      Consult Labels            
  Roundup                                     
  Rundup RT                                    
  (E. Washington and                           
  Idaho only)                                  
  or Honcho +                                  
  nonionic surfactant                          

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      prepartion or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label for
      specific rates, times of application, and perennial species controlled. 
      Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while
      perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a surfactant or
      ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed.  Do not
      apply more than 8 lbs.  ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops
      within 12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino  
      acids and protein synthesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________


PREPLANT INCORPORATED
 
Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin             0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A  
  Treflan                                       

      Apply before planting and incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep by
      cross-disking or using a PTO rotary tiller.  Do not exceed 0.75 lb ai/A 
      for direct seeded crops.  Spray only once and avoid overlapping. 
      Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 12 months.  (Inhibits  
      mitosis, primarily in shoots).
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide                  5 to 6 lb ai/A            
  Prefar                                        
  (direct-seeded broccoli)                      

      Apply preplant and incorporate 1 to 2 inches deep simultaneously or
      immediately after application by cross-disking or using a PTO rotary    
      tiller.  Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 18 months. 
      Do not apply more than once every 12 months. (Inhibits roots of seed-
      lings).   
______________________________________________________________________________

PREEMERGENCE 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bensulide               5 to 6 lb ai/A            
  Prefar                                
  (direct-seeded broccoli)                      

      Apply preemergence to crop and weeds, preferably soon after planting
      followed with 1 inch of water by sprinkler irrigation.  For furrow irri- 
      gation, thoroughly saturate the bed top.  Sometimes the first flush of
      weeds must be controlled with cultivation before the herbicide begins    
      to control grass.  Note other comments above.     
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Napropamide                     1 to 2 lb ai/A     
  Devrinol                                      

      Selectivity is based on placement above the seed or transplant depth. 
      For direct seeded crops, apply to soil surface immediately after  
      planting and sprinkler irrigate within 24 yours to wet soil 1 to 2
      inches deep, or mechanically incorporate not exceeding the seed depth.  
      Transplants can be treated preplant with shallow incorporation or
      postplant with sprinkler irrigation.  Rotational crops listed on the   
      label require deep moldboard plowing while other crops should not be
      planted sooner than 12 months following application.  (Inhibits root   
      growth).
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA                          4.5 to 9 lb ai/A    
  Dacthal                                       

      Performs erratically west of Cascades.  Elsewhere, apply immediately
      after seeding or transplanting.  Results can be improved if rainfall or 
      overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application.  Consult label
      for planting sensitive crops within 8 months.  (Inhibits mitosis)  
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
oxyflourfen                   0.25 to 0.5 lb ai/A   
  Goal                           
  (transplanted broccoli)                                     

      Apply soon after final soil preparation and before transplanting through
      the treated layer with minimal soil disturbance.  Select the lower rate
      for coarse textured soils with less than 1% organic matter.  Temporary 
      injury may occur when leaves contact treated soil.  Severe injury may
      result when transplants are under stress due to temperature, disease,   
      fertilizer salts, nematodes, insects, pesticides, and storage conditions
      or when small transplants grown in 1-inch cells are planted. Following
      transplanting, apply at least 0.25 inch overhead moisture.  Plant only
      crops listed on the label within 10 months following treatment.  Grazing
      of crop residue or treated fields is prohibited.  (Acts as a selective 
      contact that disrupts cell membranes.) 
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim                      0.19 to 0.28 lb ai/A   
  Poast              

      Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
      the label.  Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
      leaf absorption.  Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
      or stressed from drought, high temperature, or low fertility.  Resistant
      grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
      quackgrass can be suppressed.  Do not  apply within 30 days of harvest,
      nor exceed 3 pints/A per season.  (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell
      membranes, and new growth.) 
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________










INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                  Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Aphids, including                           Monitor - 0.5 to 1 lb         
Cabbage aphid                               
  Brevicoryne brassicae                     malathion - 1.25 lb
Turnip aphid                                                  
  Hyadaphis erysimi                         Phosdrin - 0.25 lb            
                                                                          
Green peach aphid                           Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb
  Myzus persicae                                              
                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt.       
Both species gray, mealy plant                                
lice forming colonies on foliage,           diazinon - 0.5 lb
on or in heads or in buds. Weak-                                        
en plants and constitute an                 Lorsban 50W - 1 lb    
adulterant in processed foods.              
                                            Metasystox-R - 0.375 to 0.75 lb
For effective aphid control, ap-               
plication of insecticides should            Orthene 75S - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
start with first appearance of                     
aphids and be continued at reg-             endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb
ular intervals as aphids appear.               
This is particularly true of                Di-Syston - 1 lb       
broccoli and cauliflower to                 Apply granules as a band on 
prevent aphids from concealing              each side of seed furrow or
themselves in heads.                        transplanted row at planting,
                                            or as a side dressing after
NOTE:  To be effective Di-Syston            plants become established.
application should be followed by           Liquid injections can be made 
sprinkler or furrow irrigation.             in similar manner.  Do not apply
Di-Syston is relatively insoluble           directly to seed.  See label for
and requires high soil moisture             complete details.
to give best results.                           
                                            dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.5 lb
         
                                            diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cabbage maggot                              Transplantings               
Delia brassicae                              diazinon - 0.125 to 0.25 lb/50
                                             gal of water     
White maggots that feed on                                               
roots and underground stems                 Preplant and transplant
and weaken, lodge, and kill                  Lorsban 4E - 0.05 to 0.086 lb     
plants. Adult is a small gray fly            ai/1000 row ft.
that lays white, oblong eggs at             
plant bases.                                Preplant
                                             Lorsban 15G - 0.04 to 0.09 lb
                                             ai/1000 row ft.              

                                            diazinon - 2 to 3 lb         
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles                                endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb
including                                                              
cabbage flea beetle                         carbaryl - 1 lb            
Phyllotreta cruciferae                                                 
                                            methoxychlor - 2.25 lb     
Small, shiny, steel-blue, jump-                                        
ing beetle. Eats round holes in             malathion - 1.5 to 2.5 lb  
leaves of wild and cultivated                                          
crucifers. Particularly serious             Di-Syston - 1 lb           
on seedlings.                                                          
                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb           
NOTE:  Carbaryl and endosulfan
combined together have given                Lorsban - 50W 1 lb.
most effective control.               
                                            permethrin - 0.05 to 0.2 lb

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.8 lb

                                            Pyrellin - 1.5 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan                            Dyfonate - 2 lb   
Scutigerella immaculata                                       
                                            Telone II or C-17 - preplant
Small, white, centipede-like                                  
animals in the soil.                        Mocap - 2 to 3 lb

                                            diazinon - 10 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grasshoppers                                Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb           
Various species                                                         
                                            Nosema locustae - use as    
May reach damaging levels on field          manufacturer directs.       
margins during years of grasshopper 
abundance.                      
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Slugs                                       metaldehyde baits                  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrips                                      malathion - 1.87 lb           
Frankliniella sp.                                                       
                                            methyl parathion - 0.3 to      
Adults about 1/25 inch in length.                              1.5 lb.     
Yellowish to black in color. An             
occasional problem in fresh                 
market cabbage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 3 to 4 lb  
Ctenicera and                                                     
Limonius spp.                               Telone II or C-17 - preplant

Brown, jointed larvae of click beetles.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Loopers, including                          Monitor - 0.5 to 1.0 lb 
Cabbage looper                                                    
Trichoplusia ni                             WARNING: If methamidophos 
                                            (Monitor) is allowed to drift 
Alfalfa looper                              onto adjacent legume or vege-   
Autographa californica                      table seed crops, it is highly 
                                            hazardous to pollinating bees. 
Larvae of both species pale                 Alternate materials should be 
green with white lines on back              used under such conditions.
and sides.  Move in looping
manner.  Moth gray-brown with               Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb 
characteristic silvery spot on                                          
forewings.                                  Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 
                                            qt.  Add a spreader-sticker to
NOTE:                                       enhance persistence on foliage
                                                         
The cabbage looper and alfalfa looper       Dibrom - 2 lb
are not serious pests every year but are                 
more difficult to control than other cab-   methoxychlor - 2.25 lb
bage "worms." State insecticide applica-                          
tions when the worms are still small.       endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb
Inspect the plants a day or so after each                         
treatment for success of control. Examine   permethrin - 0.05 to 0.2 lb
plants often in late summer and fall for                               
new infestations. Be sure insecticides      malathion - 1.25 lb
reach both sides of leaves. Choice of                                  
insecticide is dependent in part on         Phosdrin - 0.5 lb 
nearness to harvest. Parathion and                                     
phosdrin give better control of loopers     carbaryl - 2 lb     
when temperatures are below 70 F.                                      
                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb    
NOTE:                                                                  
                                            Orthene 75S - 1 lb                 
Suitable registered wetting agents should                
be added to most of the spray solutions of  pyrellin - 1 to 2 qt
the mentioned insecticides. The wetting     
agent will aid in spreading and sticking    Larvin - 0.6 to 1 lb
of the sprays to the waxy leaves and     
plant surfaces.                             diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation    
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Diamondback moth                            endosulfan - 1 lb             
Plutella maculipennis                                       
                                            malathion - 1.25 to 2.5 lb
Small, pale yellowish-green larvae                                             
with erect black hairs.  Eats holes         diazinon - 0.5 lb
in foliage.  Adults are small gray                                      
or grown moths with white marks on          carbaryl - 2 lb           
forewings that form a diamond when                                       
wings are folded.                           Rotenone - 0.35 lb (ICW only)

Imported cabbage worm                       trichlorfon - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
Pieris rapae                                    
                                            Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
Caterpillars are soft, velvety                  
green with faint yellow stripes.            Phosdrin - 1.0 lb (ICW only) 
Adult is a white butterfly with                             
black spots.                                Larvin - 0.6 to 1 lb

                                            diatect - 1 to 3 lb

                                            Monitor - 0.5 to 1.0 lb

                                            Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb
       
                                            Bacillus thuringiensis -   
                                            1 to 2 qt.  Add appropri-
                                            ate spreader-sticker.  
                                               
                                            Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb             
                                                                          
                                            methoxychlor - 2 to 2.25 lb   

                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb

                                            permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb   

                                            Lorsban 50W - 1 lb.

                                            Lorsban 4E - 1 lb

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.8 lb

                                            Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms and                                Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb      
Armyworms                                                                      
                                            endosulfan - 1 lb 
Several species.                                        
Treat when worms are small.                 carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb          
                                            
                                            permethrin - 0.05 to 0.2 lb        
                                                               
                                            Bacillus thuringinesis - 1 to 2 qt 
                                            
                                            Lorsban 50W - 1 lb 

                                            Larvin - 0.4 to 0.8 lb
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

BROCCOLI -- BACTERIAL SOFT ROT (HEAD ROT)

Cause: A bacterium, Erwinia carotovora subsp. carotovora), is found in soil,
and in irrigation water. The bacteria enters the plant through natural
openings and wounds caused by insects and equipment. The head rot phase of the
disease usually starts where water stands on the heads after rain or irriga-
tion. 

Symptoms: The plant tissue at first appears watersoaked and rapidly breaks
down into a soft, mushy rot. Any part of the plant can be affected but the
most serious economic loss occurs when heads are infected.

Control:

1. Avoid excessive irrigation and irrigation that does not dry off the plants
rapidly.

2. Increasing spacing within and between rows will increase air drainage and
decrease rot.

3. There have been reductions in head rot in the Willamette Valley by the use
of Kocide 101 sprays. Apply Kocide 101 at the rate of 2 lb product/A starting
when heads are as large as your fist at weekly intervals until the center
heads are harvested.

4. The varieties, `Pirate', `Shogun', `Green Valiant', and `Green Defender',
are reported to be resistant to Pseudomonas sp. but have not been tested in
Oregon against Erwinia.  

Residues: Copper--exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
BROCCOLI -- CLUB ROOT

Cause: Plasmodiophora brassicae, a fungus. This fungus can survive in the soil
for years following an infected crop.

Symptoms: Young plants wilt in hot weather, but recover partially at night.
Older plants are stunted, and leaves may drop off. Roots develop clubs or
swellings up to 5 or 6 inches in diameter. The largest clubs are usually just
below the soil level, on the larger roots.

Control:

A. The broccoli variety `Ore. CR-1' is resistant to some strains of the
fungus.

B. Disease-free plants and disease-free soil:

Since young plants can be infected and not show any symptoms, e.g., swelling
of the roots, it is important that only plants grown in soil known to be free
of the casual fungus be planted. If possible, plant only in club-root-free
soils, but when in doubt, it is better to treat.

C. Disease-free plants and diseased soil:

If it is not possible to use disease-free soil, the following practices and
chemicals will aid in keeping club root under control.

1.  Lime field heavily, which discourages spore germination. Even if the
infected soil is alkaline, e.g., has a pH 8, at least 1500 lb of hydrated lime
must be added to the soil each time broccoli is planted.  Use long rotations
to prevent a buildup of lime in the soil. The hydrated lime should be added to
the soil at least 6 weeks before planting.

2.  Preplanting soil treatment with PCNB (Terraclor). PCNB does not give com-
plete control of club root, but it will reduce the number of clubs and
secondary rotting of roots so that a nearly normal sized crop may be produced.

Broadcast: For transplant or direct-seeded fields, use 40 lb actual PCNB/A,
depending on soil type.  Disc or rototill the PCNB into the top 4 inches of
soil.

The treatment is effective for two seasons if the soil is only rototilledand
cultivated, not plowed.

Bands: For transplant or direct-seeded fields. Although a savings in chemical
may be made the first year by applying it in bands previous to planting and
cultivating it into the top 4 inches of soil, the second year benefit from
this applicatiion of chemical is lost.

3.  Use starter solutions (use at rate of 1 cup/plant at time of planting).

a. PCNB (Terraclor) .5 to .75 percent suspension (4 lb of 75 percent WP/100
gal water). This treatment is recommended only for commercial growers.

4.  Delay planting to avoid wet soil.

Residues: Terraclor--broccoli: Tolerance 0.1 ppm (Interim).

Row application prior to transplanting (maximum 40 lb actual PCNB/A).
Broadcast prior to planting (maximum of 40 lb actual PCNB/A).

Transplant solution--.75 pt/plant of transplant solution containing 4.5 lb
actual PCNB/100 gal.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
BROCCOLI--DAMPING-OFF

Treat seed with Anchor flowable 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed, or where Pythium sp. are a
problem, apply Ridomil 2E. (Not registered in British Columbia.)

Broadcast: Apply 4 pt Ridomil 2E/A at planting in 20 to 50 gal water.

Banded: Apply 0.5 to 1 pt Ridomil 2 E/13,000 lin ft of row in 20 to 50 gal
water.

Broadcast and incorporated: Apply 1 to 2 pt/A Ridomil 2 E as a broadcast
application in 20 to 50 gal water/A and incorporate into the top 2 inches of
soil. If planting on beds, broadcast and incorporate before bedding.  To
minimize the development of fungi resistant to Ridomil, do not make foliar
application if Ridomil is used at planting.  (See broccoli -- Downey Mildew).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
BROCCOLI -- DOWNY MILDEW

Cause: Peronospora parasitica, a fungus.

Symptoms: The first sign of the disease is the appearance of small, light
green-yellowish lesions on the upper leaf surface, later showing on the
undersurface. The spot turns yellow as it enlarges. A bluish-white fungus
growth can be seen growing in the spots on the underside of the leaf.

On the stalks--External: Spots similar to the leaf spots. Internal: Streaks of
brown to purple tissue, often in a net necrosis pattern. The streaks may
extend up to the small florets of the curd. Stunting of the curd may be the
result of this infection.

Control: All commercial processing varieties are very susceptible to the
disease.  At present there is no satisfactory control of systemic infection.
The systemic phase of the disease is the most destructive since it renders the
heads useless for the freezing trade. The streaking is difficult to detect
without breaking the stalk for examination. Spring-planted, summer-harvested
crops experience less problems than fall harvested.

The following fresh-market varieties have tolerance to the disease and have
performed well in the Willamette Valley:  `Futura', `Citation', `Premium
Crop', `Green Comet',  `Green Valiant', and `Crusade'.

Spray Ridomil/Bravo 81W at 1.5 to 2.0 lb/A.  (Not registered in British
Columbia.)

Spray maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A.  Do not apply more than 9.6 lb ai/A/season. 
Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.

Spray chlorothalonil (Bravo) at 1.17 lb ai/A.  In British Columbia, do not
apply within 7 days of harvest.

Spray with fixed copper.  Several formulations of fixed copper are available. 
Check product label for rates.  Phytotoxicity can occur at high rates on some
varieties.  

Spray fosetyl-Al (Abette) at 1.6 to 4.0 lb ai/A.  Do not apply in less than 15
gal water/A.  Do not apply more than 7 times a season or within 3 days of
harvest.  

Chlorothalonil (Bravo)--No time limitation. Tolerance 5 ppm.

Ridomil/Bravo 81W - Do not apply within 7 days of harvest. 

Warning:  Resistance to Ridomil has been confirmed in the Northwest.  To
minimize further development of resistance use as follows.  If Ridomil is used
at planting (see Broccoli -- Damping off), do not make foliar applications. 
Do not use it as a curative spray once disease has developed, use only as a
preventive spray and only in combination with another registered fungicide.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
BROCCOLI -- RINGSPOT (BLACK BLIGHT) IN SEED PRODUCTION

Cause: Mycosphaerella brassicicola, a fungus that attacks cabbage, cauliflow-
er, brussels sprouts and broccoli.

Symptoms: Individual spots most often are black with dense fruiting bodies in
tight concentric rings. Under severe attack, the spots coalesce and the entire
plant may be affected and blackened. When seed stalks are attacked, the fungus
causes distortion similar to 2,4-D symptoms.  The infectious spore stage
matures slowly over a period of months.

Control:

1.  Locate plant beds 1 mile or more from diseased fields.

2.  Burn straw stacks and plow under diseased refuse of cabbage, turnip, and
rutabaga seed fields immediately after harvest and before transplanting the
new crop.

3.  Hot water seed treatment at 122oF for 30 minutes eliminates seedborne
inoculum.

4.  Bravo and Benlate provide control of this disease when applied for downy
mildew and white blight, respectively.

5.  Bravo may be applied to cabbage, broccoli, and brussels sprouts. 
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________












         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production  guidelines  from  public   institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and  Canada.  These  guidelines  are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 9733l. 
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         ---------------------------------------------------


From kwrights@moe.coe.uga.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:05 EST 1995
Article: 56527 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!moe!kwrights
From: kwrights@moe.coe.uga.edu (Kate Wrightson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Summer Squash that *vines*?
Date: 28 Feb 1995 19:48:06 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
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I'm seeking a yellow crookneck summer squash that is a _vine_, not a 
bush.  I can't seem to find non-bush squash anywhere, whether in stores 
or in catalogs (Park's and Burpee's, to be exact).  Can anyone help?

--
*****************************************************************************
kwrights@moe.coe.uga.edu            Kate Wrightson        rightson@netcom.com
                       Will grovel for R.E.M. tickets!
      "Mine is a life fairly teeming with little elves." -- Henry Alford
*****************************************************************************


From jfreeman@porch.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:06 EST 1995
Article: 56528 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!matlock.mindspring.com!porch.com!jfreeman
From: jfreeman@porch.com (Jeff Freeman)
Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Slugs
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 14:39:26 -0400
Organization: Front Porch Computers
Lines: 20
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In article <CKwGRIUV.nfjvup@flashmag.flashmag.com> walter@flashmag.com (Walter Vose Jeffries) writes:


>I have found a method that works to control the slugs in our greenhouse
>(I go out at 2 am and snip them with sissors - it's a nice(?) break
>from programming. :) ) but I am curious... I have heard people

Sounds a bit like me going out to the front of the store at 1 am and using the 
wet/dry vac. to suck up flying bugs whizzing arround the light. We need some 
bats.



Jeff

Jeff Freeman                 1-800-GO-PORCH Toll-Free    VISA/Mastercard
Front Porch Computers        1-706-695-1888 <voice>      AMEX/Diners Club
HW/SW/Electronics/Bus.equipt.Toll free Order/Support lines in 24 countries!
We handle over 35,000 computer/business related items! We ship Worldwide!



From peacock@notapc.enet.dec.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:07 EST 1995
Article: 56529 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!peavax.eng.pko.dec.com!notapc.enet.dec.com!peacock
From: peacock@notapc.enet.dec.com ()
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Rotate Tomatoes?
Date: 1 Mar 1995 15:53:31 GMT
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Re: Crop rotation for tomatoes...

While I understand the need for crop rotation, I question whether it can be
done "properly" in the home garden setting.  When you're dealing with disease
that can be transmitted through the soil, is it possible to avoid trouble 
by simply moving the tomato patch to the other end of the garden?  Isn't it
true that something as simple as tilling the garden, or using the same hoe to
loosen up the soil at both ends of the garden can spread the diseases around?

I'm not saying that rotation is bad - for one thing, it allows for a more even
usage (nutrient-wise) of the soil - that is, it can prevent getting to a
point where certain patches in your garden have been nutrient depleted.
However, I wonder if rotating crops strictly for the sake of trying to avoid
certain soil borne diseases is really worth all the extra work?

just wondering,

- Tom


From grkriebel@aol.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:08 EST 1995
Article: 56530 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: grkriebel@aol.com (GRKRIEBEL)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Organically removing slugs?
Date: 28 Feb 1995 03:45:12 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <3itp93$1ki@rosebud.sdsc.edu>
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I use beer in tunafish cans,  when and if it's not too rainy.  Slugs love
the beer and fall in and drown.  I'm serious, but use cheep beer!  Set the
cand flush with the dirt and check it out every morn.  Actually, doing
just that, checking the plot every early morning befor they get a chance
to slip back into hiding is best. Eliminating those hiding places, of
course.
Here in Oregon we have plenty of experiance with such beasts.  It's our
state mascot.
Or else, spread sand around?  maybe they don't like sand much,  but that's
not too successful I've found.
Good luck
Grkriebel@aol.com


From blb@panix.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:10 EST 1995
Article: 56531 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!panix!not-for-mail
From: blb@panix.com (Bernadette Bosky)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Edible ferns--please help
Date: 28 Feb 1995 04:06:43 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
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	I've been doing a lot of reading and a lot of experimenting, 
planting a yard that's almost all in shade.  One question has frustrated 
all my efforts at research:  which kinds of ferns have the best edible 
fiddleheads?  Would the *Edible Garden* book that has been mentioned here 
be of help?  My yard is not very moist, so if there is a choice among 
varieties (with edible fiddleheads), that should be taken into account.
	I'm glad to have found this group--though I better do my posting 
on it now, before I can actually go out there & use up all my time....
	Thanks!

Bernadette Bosky



From Cyberberus@Psl.Org Mon Mar  6 10:42:11 EST 1995
Article: 56532 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!cyberus.a2i!cyberus
From: Cyberberus@Psl.Org
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Patchouli
Date: 28 Feb 1995 09:11:20 GMT
Organization: a2i network
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References: <3im1ik$c4i@carver.DataFlux.BC.CA>
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Diane Barnes (dbarnes@dataflux.bc.ca) wrote:
: Help!
: Please excuse my ignorance...does Patchouli start from cuttings or seed?
: Any and all info greatly appreciated...including any mail-order info.
: Thanks. 

  Patchouli can be started either way, but cutting/cloning is *much* 
easier.  I've had a great deal of success with Olivia's Cloning 
Solution, Patchouli cuttings root in 1-2 weeks no problem.
  Richters seems to have the best prices for plants on the mail-order 
front.




From hdsmith@adpc.purdue.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:12 EST 1995
Article: 56533 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!news
From: hdsmith@adpc.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Northern New Jersey garden club?
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 95 12:44:04 PDT
Organization: Purdue University
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> 
> Hi, all.  Do you know of any gardening clubs in Northern New Jersey,
> specifically Essex County?  Or where I might find contacts for them?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
Try asking your County Cooperative Extension Office.  They should be listed in 
the phone book under "County Government" or under "Rutgers."

Harry




From taner@tekgp2.cse.tek.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:14 EST 1995
Article: 56534 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.tek.com!tekgp2.cse.tek.com!taner
From: taner@tekgp2.cse.tek.com (Tane Russell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Foxglove afterlife?
Date: 28 Feb 1995 20:43:49 GMT
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I bought a dozen Digitalis Purpurea last spring and
they bloomed beautifully.  I kept them deadheaded, until
the last batch so they could reseed.

My understanding of biennuals is that after they
bloom, they die.  All but one of last years plants
is starting to grow again this spring. I will
definately keep them if they will bloom again this
year. Do some biennuals bloom for more than one season?

Tane Russell


From j.p.ramsdale.1.@.student.lut.ac.uk. Mon Mar  6 10:42:15 EST 1995
Article: 56535 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: j.p.ramsdale.1.@.student.lut.ac.uk. (jonathan ramsdale)
Subject: User friendly Lawn mower switchgear
Sender: usenet@lut.ac.uk (Usenet-News)
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I am currently designing the switchgear for a range of electric
lawnmowers, which will be a vast improvement on existing conventional
designs which use simple levers. One possibility under investigation is
the use of membrane type switches or force sensitive resistors. A more
detailed description of the project is given on the following web page.

http://info.lut.ac.uk/departments/cd/Docs_DandT/students/SandE/WIPintro.html

Any ideas as to the ideal Lawnmower switchgear or any suggestions please
contact  me at email:

j.p.ramsdale1.@.student.lut.ac.uk


From djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:16 EST 1995
Article: 56536 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com (D416B/Dave Daulton/X4410/D/B)
Subject: Re: Which trees do I cut down? - Update
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After you talk to the arborist, please remember to let us know
what the mystery tree is.

(Live-oak like leaves but fuzzy underneath sounds a little like
autumn olive to me.)

Dave Daulton


From j.p.ramsdale1.@.student.lut.ac.uk Mon Mar  6 10:42:18 EST 1995
Article: 56537 of rec.gardens
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From: j.p.ramsdale1.@.student.lut.ac.uk
Subject: TEST message jon ramsdale
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I hope this is working


From polsons@cruzio.com Mon Mar  6 10:42:19 EST 1995
Article: 56538 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: polsons@cruzio.com (The Polsons)
Subject: Re: Martha Stewart - Oprah
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 20:41:45 GMT
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What a great story! IF anyone taped this, can I buy a copy from you? I
never watch Oprah, but I really want to see THIS!! 

(Some of the gals in my Master Gardener class seem to think she's just
great and I need some ammo...Although the baby chicks getting crushed
story managed to cause a prolonged silence.. ;-) )

-Willow     (polsons@cruzio.com)
---------------------------------------------------
(This address will be changing as of the beginning
of March...please use the temporary address of
craig_polson@radius.com for all mail..)


From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:21 EST 1995
Article: 56539 of rec.gardens
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From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Corn
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 14:49:42 -0800
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                                SWEET CORN
                                 Zea mays 

      A number of genes affect sweetness in corn.  These are recessive mutants
of the starchy gene found in field corn (Su) and their modifiers, and other
genes.  Normal sweet corn has the recessive mutant of field corn (su). 
Modifiers and other genes include the sugary-extender gene (se) and the
supersweet or shrunken gene (sh2).  These make up three major genetic classes
of importance in commercial production :

      Normal sugary (su) corn is the standard corn grown for processing and
much of the fresh market.  The seed germinates well at 55-60 F.

      Sugary enhanced (se) corn results in slightly increased sugar levels and
slower conversion of sugars to starch after harvest.  Kernels are very tender
with good "corn" flavor.  Seed germinates well at temperatures of 55-60 F.

      Super sweet or extra sweet (sh2) corn produces kernels with two to three
times the complex sugars of the standard corn varieties.  Texture is crispy
rather than creamy as with the standard and enhanced varieties.  Fresh market
shelf life is extended due to the ability of the kernels to retain moisture. 
Seed kernels are smaller, lighter in weight and shrunken in appearance (giving
the gene the name "shrunken").

XENIA:

      Xenia effects are pollen induced changes in kernels of sweetcorn
apparent on the ears to be harvested.  Some of these changes may be intended
and beneficial.  These changes are of most concern when they result in a loss
of cob or kernel quality by adversely changing kernel color, kernel weight,
embryo weight, soluble solids percent, pericarp texture and content, kernel
moisture and cause other undesirable direct and indirect effects.   A number
of ways to manage xenia effects are used.  The main method is by isolation of
the different genotypes.  Consult sections on isolation as explained below.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES (approximately 70 days for early and 100 days for main
season varieties in the Willamette Valley, warmer areas, 7-10 days less).

      YELLOW KERNELS:
      Standard sweet (su) very early: Northern Vee; early: Sundance; main
season: Jubilee (also called Golden Jubilee), Commander and Stylepak (the
latter three are used for processing) and all are used for fresh market.
      Super Sweet (sh2), Early: Flare, Summer Sweet 6700, Butterfruit,
Party-Time.  Main season: Supersweet Jubilee, Challanger, Stylesweet, Crisp'N
Sweet 710, For trial: Excel, Fanciful, Showcase, Pinnacle, Sweet Treat, Illini
Gold, Summer Sweet 7200, Zenith.
      "Improved Super Sweets" (sh2,su): Sweetie 82.
      Sugary enchanced (su,se) very early: Sugar Buns; early: Honey Buns,
Precocious, Bodacious, Miracle; main season:  Incredible, Tendertreat and
Kandy Korn.

      WHITE KERNELS (must be isolated from yellow or bicolor types):
      Standard sweet (su):  Silver Queen, Sterling.
      Supersweet (sh2):  How Sweet It Is, Summer Sweet 8601. For trial: Aspen.
      Sugary enhanced (su,se):  Divinity, Alpine, Snowbelle, Silverado, White
Lightning, Platinum Lady.

      BICIOLOR KERNELS:
      Standard sweet (su): Dandy, Harmony, Honey and Cream, Sweet Sue, Double
Taste.
      Supersweet (sh2):  Honey and Pearl; Phenomenal.
      Sugary enhanced (su,se):  Calico Belle; Double Delight. 

      NOTE:  Kernel quality of all the above varieties may be dramatically
altered under certain pollination conditions.  See the sections below on
"Genetic types" and "Isolation".

      POP CORN (Su; approximately 110 days); white, yellow, red and black
kernel types are available.  Only white and yellow are of commercial impor-
tance:
      White Cloud, Crookham 1084.

      ORNAMENTAL CORN (Su; approximately 100 days):
      Chinook, Indian Ornamental and Fiesta are standard size cobs; Wampum,
Indian Fingers and Strawberry Popcorn are small or miniature cob types.

      BABY CORN:  All baby corn is hand harvested and hand husked from
immature corn at, or within 1-2 days after silking.  The  main varieties used
are either prolific (multiple-eared) starchy feed corn types (Su), or super-
sweet (sh2).  Research indicates the quality (sweetness and crispness) is
equally good for all genotypes, but that yields are higher with prolific
(multi-eared) starchy types.  Varieties with small kernels and long ears are
particularly suited.  The pickled baby corn imported from Taiwan and Thailand)
is produced from special field corn (Su) varieties developed there for that
purpose such as Tainan No. 5, Tainan No. 11, Tainung No. 351, or a superweet
corn such as Florida Staysweet (sh2).  Other varietes that are suggested for
trial are the white kernel variety Silver Queen, the yellow kernel supersweet
varieties Stylesweet and How Sweet It Is, and the variety Baby Corn (Su a type
of Japanese hulless popcorn), are suggested for this purpose.  Tom Thumb,
Golden Midget, and Miniature Hybrid may be others. 

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Crookham Co. Caldwell, ID 83606
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Illinois Foundation Seeds Inc. POB 722, Champaign, IL 61820
Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711-4727
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

GENETIC TYPES:

      The threee genetic classes mentioned above are categorized into 6 major
sugar mutant types.  Other categories exist, but are not of commercial
importance.  These may be represented by yellow, white, or bi-color varieties.

      The following table modified from a paper by J.W. Courter and others,
describes these table corn types and classifies them into categories for
isolation purposes:

ISOLATION    DESCRIPTIVE              HOMOZYGOUS         VARIETY
CLASS        TERMINOLOGY              RECESSIVE          EXAMPLES 
                                      "SUGAR" GENES

I      Field, dent, or flour corn      none   

II*a   Sugary or standard sweet corn   su            Jubilee (yellow)
                                                     Double Taste (bicolor)
                                                     Silver Queen (white)

II*b   Sugary augmented with           su se         Kandy Korn EH (yellow)
          sugary enhancer; or          heterozygous  D'Artagnan (bicolor)
          "EH" types                                 Siverado (white)

                                       su se         Miracle (yellow) 
                                       homozygous    Calico Bell (bicol)
                                                      (no whites)

II*c   Sugary augmented with           su sh-2       Sugar Loaf (yellow)
           shrunken-2; or              heterozygous  (no bicolors)
           "SWEET gene HYBRID", or                   (no whites)
           "Synergistics"

III**a  Shrunken-2, supersweets, or    sh-2           Crisp N Sweet 710 (y)
           "Xtra-Sweet" hybrids                       Honey and Pearl (bi)
                                                      How Sweet It Is (wht) 

III**b  Shrunken-2 augmented with      sh-2 su        Sweetie 82 (yellow)
           sugary; or "Improved        heterozygous   (no bicolors) 
           Supersweet Hybrid"                         (no whites) 

      * Class II contains varieties homozygous only for su (IIa) as well as
those homozygous su cultivars with additional heterozygous OR Homozygous
recessive genes such as se (IIb), or sh2 (IIc), since cross pollination of
such cultivars will still produce su kernels (sweetcorn).

      **  Class III contains varieties homozygous only for sh2 (IIIa) as well
as those homozygous sh2 cultivars with additional heterozygous recessive genes
such as su (IIIb), since cross pollination of such cultivars will still
produce sh2 kernels (supersweet corn). 

      A recommended isolation distance, in feet, is given in the following
table for the different classes of corn.  Popcorn and ornamental Indian corn
should be considered as two additional, separate, isolation classes.

White-kernel varieties must be isolated from all other corn by 500 feet or
more.  See also the ISOLATION section on page 4 for a further discussion on
this:

                    ISOLATION DISTANCE RECOMMENDED (ft.) 
        ISOLATION
          CLASS          I    IIa   IIb   IIc   IIIa  IIIb

          I              0    250   250   250   250   250
          IIa            250    0    50    50   250   250
          IIb            250   50     0    50   250   250
          IIc            250   50    50     0   250   250
          IIIa           250  250   250   250     0    50
          IIIb           250  250   250   250    50     0

      Note:  An isolation distance of 250 feet is given between isolation
classes I, II, and III, wherever outcrossing will cause flavor, texture, and
the starch content of the outcrossed kernels to resemble field corn.  Popcorn
and ornamental Indian corn should be considered as two additional isolation
classes to be separated from all isolation classes by 250 feet.

      An isolation distance of 50 feet is given whenever outcrossing is not
very detrimental but could result in flavor, texture, and the starch content
of the outcrossed kernels to be no different than the un-augmented type
(sugary in class II and supersweet in class III).

ISOLATION:

      Isolation is necessary from two points of view, color and kernel quality
(sugars and texture).  Since colored kernels in white varieties are very
obvious, a 500 foot or more isolation distance is recommended between white
and colored varieties.  A two week difference in silking may also be used, but
is less reliable.  For isolation regarding kernel quality considerations the
following is recommended:

      Supersweet corn varieties and other new types of corn requiring isola-
tion from standard sweet types (discussed above in the "VARIETIES" section)
should be isolated based on their Isolation Class categorization.  The use of
2-4 border rows helps minimize contamination in all situations described
below.  Isolation may be accomplished in three ways, by distance, time of
pollination, and blocking.  Isolation by distance is the preferred method.



                  Isolation by distance:

      Observations at Oregon State University over several seasons indicate
that if no isolation is used between standard sweet (Isolation Class II) and
supersweet types (Isolation Class III), outcrossing of kernels in adjacent
rows, and extending for 6 to 10 rows into each type is high enough to render
the ears from these rows unsalable.  This outcrossing can result in over 50%
of the kernels on ears in adjacent rows being starchy.  Outcrossing drops off
rapidly beyond 10 rows, until at about 100 feet, only up to 1% of kernels (up
to 4 kernels per ear) may be starchy.  This level of outcrossing is probably
not discernible by fresh market buyers or consumers.  Processing companies
however may have different requirements for isolation.   

      Where large plantings are made for fresh market production, a distance
of 250 feet is recommended between Isolation Classes I, II, and III.  Where
isolation of fields is convenient, maximum isolation would not need to exceed
600 feet, which is a conservative assumption based on distances used for seed
production, where isolation is even more important.  Whenever practical:

      1.  Locate supersweet varieties (Isolation Class III) upwind of variet-
ies in all other isolation classes since outcrossed kernels may be more
apparent in the supersweet ears.

      2.  Mechanically top standard sweet plantings, of the variety Jubilee,
two leaves above the top ear after the silks have turned brown, and before
nearby supersweet plantings begin to silk.  Topping an earlier nearby super-
sweet planting, or a standard sweet variety other than Jubilee would also be
helpful, but timing and the effect of topping on yields of super- sweet corn,
and other standard sweet varieties, have not been researched adequately. 
Unacceptable reductions in yield have been observed in limited research on
topping of other varieties (see also section on TOPPING below).

      3.  In small sequential fresh market plantings, plant all varieties of
one Isolation Class (I, II, OR III) together in a block located 250 feet or
more from a block containing sequential plantings of varieties of any other
Isolation Class.  For best quality results, varieties of different subclasses
(IIa, IIb, OR IIc) should be isolated 50 feet from other subclasses within the
same Isolation Class.

      Isolation by time of pollination:

      If the 2-3 week pollination time difference is to be used as a means of
isolation between Isolation Classes, and plantings of different Isolation
Classes are adjacent, several things need to be considered:

      1.  The later planting must not be planted based on calendar day diff-
erence, but rather on growth stage or heat units.  Specifics on this need to
be obtained from the individual seed company regarding their variety.  The
maturity difference between the two types of corn has to also be figured into
the planting date difference.  Assuming the standard sweet (Isolation Class
II) and supersweet (Isolation Class III) varieties have the same maturity
(days from seeding to pollination), delay planting the other Isolation Class
of corn until the first planting has 8 or more leaves, or 300 or more heat
units (base 50 F) have elapsed.

      2.  To obtain an effective two to three week spread at pollination, the
early planting must germinate uniformly or else late germinating plants may
cause problems.

      3.  Whenever possible, mechanically top the early planting just before
the later one begins to silk (CAUTION, see section on TOPPING below).  Fresh
market growers may choose to hand-top the late flowering plants or suckers in
10 or 20 rows adjacent to the later planting.  Be especially careful of late
flowering suckers in these rows.

      Isolation by blocking:

      Fresh market growers who have a use for, or a market for ensilage, may
also choose to "block" plantings that have not been isolated by distance or
pollination time.  This practice consists of walking progressively further
from the boundary of the two plantings, examining a sample of ears in each row
visually until one finds the row where the outcrossing incidence is accept-
able, abandoning the intervening rows (and using them for silage).  In
Florida, experience has shown that 6-10 rows (sometimes up to 20 rows) may
need to be skipped.

SOIL

      A wide variety of soils are suitable.  It is important that the soil be
well drained and well supplied with organic matter.  The optimum pH range is
5.8 to 7.0.

SOIL TEMPERATURE

      The optimum soil temperature range for germination is over 60 F.  This
is especially true for the super sweet and improved super sweet varieties
where germination may be drastically reduced under cool soil conditions. 
Sweet corn takes about 20 days to emerge from 50 F soils, but only about 5
days to emerge at 70 F.  Soil temperature is one factor in scheduling plant-
ings.

SEED AND SEED TREATMENT

      Sweet corn seed numbers approximately 120-180 per ounce.  About 10-15
lbs. are used per acre.  Use only seed treated with fungicides and insecti-
cides.  Some seed companies are now offering super sweet varieties with
specially coated, sized seed, intended to improve stand establishment.

      Research indicates that seed shape and size are related to emergence and
stand establishment and performance.  In normal sweet corn, flat seed perform
better than round, and in both classes, high density seeds perform better than
those of lower density.

      When planting supersweet varieties, large differences in seed vigor
occur between different varieties, particularly under cool, wet or compacted
soil conditions.  The difference in performance is not apparant from germina-
tion information on the identification tags.

SEEDING

      For early fresh-market standard varieties, seeding may start as soon as
soil temperature reaches 60 F.  In western Oregon, this is generally about the
end of April, and planting extends through June.  

      In eastern Oregon, depending on location, planting may start about 2
weeks earlier and may extend into mid July.  Care should be taken that sweet
corn is planted after the danger of spring frost has passed.  

      Use 10-15 lb./acre of seed, depending on the variety and seed size. 
Seeding at a depth of l-2 in. is generally satisfactory.  Shallow planting
(1/2 in.) and maintenance of high soil moisture is recommended where head smut
may be a problem, and for supersweet types.  For processing, recommended
stands are 26,000 to 27,000/A while for fresh market, where large ear size and
good husk color are important, stands should be between 20,000 and 25,000 per
acre.

      A rough planting schedule that would provide about 10-14 days between
mid season peak harvests between plantings would be to wait till most of the
plants in the previous planting had 3 leaves before making the next planting.
       
SPACING:

      Plant quick-growing, small stature varieties in rows approximately 30
in. apart, and 6-8 in. in the rows.  Vigorous tall-growing varieties should be
grown in rows 30-36 in. apart, 9-12 in. between plants.  Processing varieties
should be planted according to the row spacing and rate required by the
processor.

      For baby corn two systems are used. One system uses standard populations
of about 23,000 plants per acre, where the top ear is left on the plant for
grain corn or sweet corn, and subsequent ears harvested for baby corn.  The
second system uses high plant populations of between 34,000 and 44,000 plants
per acre where all ears are harvested for baby corn.  Row spacings range from
24-36 inches apart.  The standard plant populations produce yields of about
4,000 lbs. of unhusked ears (400 lbs of husked ears) per acre, while the high
populations produce yields of about 8,000-10,000 lbs. of unhusked ears (800-
1000 lbs. of husked ears) per acre.

BIRD CONTROL 

      For bird control, including pheasants, use Mesurol 50% Hopper Box. 
Treatment - 0.25 to 0.5 lb/l00 lb. seed.  Reduces feeding damage to seeds and
seedlings.     

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  The
following are general guidelines:

      Western Oregon:

      Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses
are to be realized.  These practices include use of recommended varieties,
selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease and insect control, good
seed bed preparation, proper seeding methods, and timely harvest.  

      Recommendations are based on a 36" row spacing.  With decreased row spa-
cings fertilizer rates should be increased by 10% for each 3" decrease in row
spacing.  

      An early irrigation when corn is about 6" high will insure most effi-
cient utilization of banded fertilizer.  

      Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs.  The Oregon State University Extension Service
agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil
sample bags and information sheets.  

                               NITROGEN (N):

      The rate of N application depends on the carry over of N from the pre-
vious crop:

             Previous                                 N application
              crop                                        lbs/A

       Grain                                             200-225
       Corn, snap beans, poor clover or alfalfa          150-175
       Good clover or alfalfa                            100-125

      On coarse textured sandy or gravely soils such as the Sifton soil
series, 225 to 250 lb/A of N may be required.  

      About 50 lbs N/A should be banded with the P fertilizer at planting
time.  The remainder of the N may be applied before planting and/or during the
growing season before plants are 3 ft tall.  The later application of N is
suggested where there is a potential for leaching such as with early plantings
and on sandy or gravely soils.  The application of 25% of the N when corn is
12" tall has given good results.  

      If the application of N plus potash (K2 O) exceeds 90 lb/A, there is
danger of seedling in jury from the concentration of salt when fertilizer is
banded at planting time.  

      Fertilizer salt injury can be reduced by using two rather than one
fertilizer band, not banding too close to the seed, and immediate irrigation
at first sign of crop injury.  Salt injury is likely to be greater in sandy
soil compared to finer textured soil and in dry soil compared to moist soil.  

                                PHOSPHORUS (P)

      Phosphorus is essential for vigorous early growth of seedlings.  All of
the P should be banded 2 to 3" to the side and 2-3" below the seed when
planting.  

      Response is greatest from bands properly placed at 2" x 2".  

          If the OSU soil test              Apply this amount of 
           for P reads (ppm):              phosphate (P2 O5) (lb/A):

                  0 - 15                           120 - 150
                 15 - 50                            80 - 120
                 Over 50                            60 - 80

      These P recommendations assume that the soil pH is 5.8 or higher and
that corn is planted by mid-May.  Reduce P rates by 1/3 for June plantings. 
When soil pH is below 5.6 and lime is not applied, P rates should be in-
creased.  

                                 POTASSIUM (K)

      Potassium should be broadcast and plowed down before planting or banded
when planting.  Not more than 60 lb/A of K2 O should be banded.  The total of
N + K2 O in the fertilizer band should not exceed 90 lbs/A.  

                 If the OSU soil test     Apply this amount of
                  for K reads (ppm):       potash(K2 O) (lb/A)

                      0 - 100                  100 - 150
                    100 - 200                   50 - 100
                    Over  200                    None

                                  SULFUR (S)

      Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate.  Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.  Elemental S must convert to sulfate
in the soil before the S becomes available to plants.  The conversion of ele-
mental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh)
material in warm, moist soil.  

      The S requirements of sweet corn can be provided by:

      1.  The application of 15-20 lb/A of S in the form of sulfate at plan-
ting time.  
      2.  Applying 30-40 lb/A of S as fine ground elemental S the preceding
year.
      3.  Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less    
frequently.  
      Some S fertilizer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate
have an acidifying effect on soil.  

                                MAGNESIUM (Mg)

      Magnesium applications are recommended when soil test values for Mg are
below 1.0 meq Magnesium/100g of soil or when the calcium (Ca) soil test value
is more than 10 times the Mg value.  

      Band 10 to 15 lbs/A of Mg when planting.  If deficiency symptoms appear,
spray with 10 lbs/A of Epsom salts in 100 gals of water.  

      Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material
that reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone.  Dolo-
mite should be mixed into the seedbed several weeks in advance of seeding.  

                                   BORON (B)

      No consistent responses of sweet corn to the application of B have been
observed in western Oregon.  
       
      Where the soil test value for B is below 0.25 ppm, growers may wish to
make a trial application of 2 lb/A of B.  

      Too much B fertilizer can be highly toxic; therefore, suggested rates of
B application should not be exceeded and B should be evenly distributed over
the field and not be banded at planting.  

      Boron and fertilizer materials should be thoroughly mixed when B appli-
cation is combined with other fertilizers.  

                                   ZINC (Zn)

      The application of Zn has increased the yield of sweet corn in the
Stayton area especially on the gravely, dark colored soils.  


           If the OSU soil test               Apply this amount
            for Zn reads (ppm)                  of Zn in lbs/A

               less than 1              3 - 4 banded; or 10 broadcast
                  Over 1                               0

      When the soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected on
all soils.  

      When the soil test is between 1 and 1.5 ppm Zn a response to Zn is
expected on most soils in the Stayton area.  

      Where Zn is required, either 10 lbs/A of Zn should be broadcast and
worked into the soil prior to planting or 3 to 4 lbs/A of Zn should be banded
with the fertilizer at planting time.  A broadcast application of 10 lbs Zn/A
should supply Zn needs for 2 or 3 years.  

      Responses of sweet corn to nutrients other than those discussed in this
guide have not been observed in western Oregon.  

                                     LIME

      Experimental work has shown that sweet corn will produce good yields
over a fairly wide range of soil acidity.  
          
      Lime applications are suggested when the soil pH is below 5.8 or when
calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq Ca/100g of soil.  

      The rate of lime application can be estimated from the following OSU
lime requirement table:  

                If the OSU SMP Buffer          Apply this amount
                 test for lime reads            of lime (T/A):

                      Below 5.6                     4 - 5
                      5.6 - 5.8                     3 - 4
                      5.8 - 6.0                     2 - 3
                      6.0 - 6.3                     1 - 2
                       Over 6.3                        0

      The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.  

      Lime should be mixed into the soil at least several weeks before plan-
ting and preferably the previous fall.  A lime application is effective over
several years.  

      Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.2) and a
low pH (below 5.3).  This condition can be caused by the application of
acidifying fertilizer.  In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH
of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the
soil.  This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered follow-
ing recent applications of most nitrogen fertilizer materials.  

      Acidifying fertilizers also have a long term acidifying effect on soil
which is cumulative and leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings.  

      Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some-
times record low pH and high SMP buffer values.  In such cases, a light appli-
cation of lime (1 to 2 T/A) should suffice to neutralize soil acidity.  

      For acid soils low in magnesium (less than 1.0 meq magnesium/100 g.
soil), 1 T/A of dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source. Dolomite and ground
lime stone have about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity.  
          
      Fertilizer Guide #3, "Liming Materials for Oregon," which is available
from your local OSU Extension Office, provides additional information on lime. 

      Phosphorus, K, Mg, B, Zn, and lime suggestions are based on soil test
values from the Soil Testing Laboratory, OSU, Corvallis, Oregon.  

      These guides to fertilization are largely based on the results of expe-
riments conducted by Horticulture and Soils Department scientists of the
Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station and are quoted from O.S.U. Fertilizer
Guide FG11.

      Eastern Oregon:

      The fertilizer applications suggested in this guide are based on a
population of 25,000 to 30,000 plants/A.  Fertilizer rates can be adjusted
proportionately up or down when plant population and predicted yield deviate
from these values.  

                                   NITROGEN (N)

      Sweet corn requires a good supply of available N.  An optimum response
to N fertilization depends on adequate irrigation.  An irrigation when corn is
12-18" high will insure most efficient utilization of banded fertilizer.  

      Part (40-60 lbs/A) of the N should be banded at planting time the
remainder may be applied before planting and/or during the growing season
before tasseling, particularly where leaching is likely to be a problem.  

      If the band application of N exceeds 60 lb/A, there is danger of seed-
ling injury from the concentration of salt.  

      Fertilizer salt injury can be reduced by using 2 rather than 1 fertili-
zer bands, not banding too close to the seed, and immediate irrigation at
first sign of crop injury.  Salt injury is likely to be greater in sandy soil
compared to finer textured soil and in dry compared to moist soil.  

      The urea or diammonium phosphate forms of N may cause seedling injury if
banded close to the seed at planting, especially where the soil pH exceeds
7.0.  

      Amount of N fertilizer required depends on the following factors:

       The preceding crop; the N carry-over from the previous crop; the amount
and type of residue to be plowed under; and possible leaching losses due to
over-irrigation.  

      The following fertilizer guides are for mineral soils with low organic
matter content.  




                  N Fertilizer Guide Based on Soil Test

      The amount of residual N in the soil varies considerably.  A soil test
for nitrate-N helps in evaluating the N carry-over from the previous crops in
the case of mineral soils with low organic matter content.  Soil samples for
Nitrate-N should be taken following a growing season and prior to the applica-
tion of N fertilizer.  

      Soil samples should be taken from 0-2' and 2-5' depths on deep soils. 
The soil samples should consist of soil cores removed from the entire 0-2' and
2-5' depths of soil.  On soils shallower than 5', soil samples should be taken
from 0-2' and from 2' to the expected rooting depth.  

      OSU soil test results for N are reported in ppm.  One ppm N in a 1'
depth of soil equals about 4 lbs N/acre.  As an example:  

                  Soil depth              Nitrate-N
                    (ft)               (ppm)   (lbs/A)

                     0 - 2                4        32
                     2 - 5                3        36
                                             Total 68 lbs/A

      The total Nitrate-N soil test values are used to estimate the N ferti-
lizer requirement as follows:

                                  After*        After
                Nitrate-N Soil    non-legume    beans, peas
                Test (lbs/A)      crop          or alfalfa

                      0             300            250
                     50             250            200
                    100             200            150
                    150             150            100
                    200             100             50
                    250              50              0
                    300               0              0

      *When straw is incorporated after Sept. 1, in crease N fertilizer rate
by 30-50 lbs/A.  

      Should the soil test value for Nitrate-N be less than 2 ppm in the 0-2'
soil depth apply a mini mum of 30 lbs N/A regardless of the soil test value
for N below 2'.  This application is to insure adequate initial growth of
plants.  

                              PHOSPHORUS (P)

      Phosphorus is essential for vigorous early growth of seedlings.  All of
the P should be banded 2" to the side and 2" below the seed at planting.  


    If OSU soil test                   Band this amount* of 
    for P reads (ppm)                phosphate(P2 O5) (lbs/A)

         0 - 5                             100 - 150
         5 - 12**                            0 - 100

      *Double the rate of P application when P is plowed down.  

      **For early plantings into cool soil when P soil test exceeds 12 ppm,
apply 20-30 lbs P2O5/A in a 2"x2" band.  

                               POTASSIUM (K)

      Potassium should be broadcast and plowed down before planting.  

      If the OSU soil test                Apply this amount of
      for K reads (ppm):                 potash (K2 O) (lbs/A)

           0 - 100                            150 - 200
         100 - 150                            100 - 150
         150 - 200                              0 - 100

                                SULFUR (S)

      Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate.  Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.  Elemental S must convert to sulfate
in the soil before the S becomes avail able to plants.  The conversion of
elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh)
material in warm moist soil.  

      Elemental S should be applied the year preceding the crop using finely
ground (less than 40 mesh) material.  Elemental S is a strong soil acidifier. 
S in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time.  

     If OSU soil test for            Apply this amount of S*
     SO 4 - S in the 0-2'                in lbs/acre:
     soil depth reads (ppm)          Loamy soil     Sandy soil**

            0 - 2                     20 - 30         30 - 40
            2 - 5                      0 - 20         20 - 30
            5 - 8                        0             0 - 20

      *When the irrigation water contains over 2 ppm of S, additional S fer-
tilizer is probably not required.  

      **These rates should be increased by 50% for sandy soils in central
Oregon.  

      S requirements will vary with soil texture, leaching losses and the soil
parent material.  S is frequently contained in fertilizers used to sup ply
other nutrients such as N, P, and K and may be present in irrigation water
which can be tested for S content.  
                                 ZINC (Zn)

      Sweet corn has a relatively high requirement for Zn.  An application of
Zn is suggested when the Zn soil test value is below 0.8 ppm.  

      Where Zn is required, either 10 lb Zn/A should be broadcast and worked
into the soil prior to planting or 3 to 4 lb Zn/A should be banded with the
fertilizer at planting time.  An application of 10 lb Zn/A should supply Zn
needs for 2 or 3 years.  

      To correct Zn deficiency during the growing season thoroughly wet plants
with a solution containing 1 lb Zn in 50 to 100 gal of water.  

                                 BORON (B)

      Responses of sweet corn to B have not been observed in eastern Oregon. 
Where the soil test value for B is below 0.4 ppm trial applications of B are
suggested.  

                              OTHER NUTRIENTS

      Responses of sweet corn to other nutrients such as copper and iron have
not been observed in eastern Oregon.  

                                   LIME

      Responses of sweet corn to lime have not been observed in eastern Ore-
gon; however, where the soil test pH value is less than 5.5 a lime application
is suggested.  Soil pH should be measured prior to application of fertilizer. 


      Where the subsoil is calcareous or has a higher pH deep plowing will
reduce surface soil acidity.  

      On sandy soils where soil acidity is most prevalent, one ton of dry
100-score lime raises the pH about 1 unit.  In most instances 1 to 1 1/2 T/A
of lime is adequate to correct soil acidity.  With silt loam and clay loam
soils 2 to 3 T/A of lime respectively will raise soil pH about one unit.  

      Lime should be mixed into the seedbed at least several weeks before
seeding.  A lime application is effective over several years.  

      The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.  

                       SUFFICIENCY LEVELS FOR SWEET CORN

      Data from the midwest indicates the following sufficiency levels for
sweetcorn based on growth stage (from the National Corn Handbook, NCH-43): 




                                Nutrient Sufficiency Levels in Sweet Corn
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Growth   Plant Part   N    P    K   Ca    Mg    S    Fe   B   Zn   Mn   Mo
  Stage     Sampled
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  12 in.  whole plant  3.5  0.4  3.0  0.3  0.30  0.2   50   7   20   50   0.3 

  Silk     ear leaf    2.8  0.25 1.8  0.3  0.25  0.2   60   6   20   25   0.3 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Levels below these values are considered low or deficient.  Levels
      above these values are considered high or excessive.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      The above values should be used as guides only for diagnostic purposes. 
Such values may differ for different varieties.

                                SALTY SOILS

      The growth of sweet corn will likely be restricted when the soil test
value for soluble salts exceeds 4 mmhos/cm.  

      The eastern Oregon guides are largely based on the results of experi-
ments conducted by Washington State University and observations of growers'
fields, and have been quoted and modified from OSU Fertilizer Guide No. FG71. 


IRRIGATION

      For western Oregon 12-14 inches of water provides optimum yields and ear
size.  In eastern Oregon 25-28 inches may be needed depending on seasonal
variation, variety and planting date.  Approximate summer irrigation needs for
the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5
in July, and 7.0 in August.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.         

      To facilitate movement of irrigation pipe at the last irrigation/s,
expedite harvest, and to reduce lodging, corn may be topped after pollination
is completed (see section on TOPPING below).

TOPPING

      Corn is sometimes topped to facilitate movement of hand carried irri-
gation pipe through the fields, expedite harvest, and to reduce danger of
lodging.  Topping is done by special high clearance machines that use rotary
cutting blades.

      Top corn when pollination is completed (2/3 to 3/4 of silks of top ears
begin to turn brown), and leave 2-3 leaves above the top ear, otherwise yields
will be unacceptably reduced.  Topping at the correct time may still result in
up to a 10% yield reduction but this is usually compensated for by better
irrigation, expeditious harvest, and reduction in lodging.  This topping
information has been developed for the variety Jubilee.  Other varieties may
have yields seriously depressed by topping (Stylepak), or may have silks that
do not turn brown after pollination, making this timing indicator unsuitable. 

      For "baby corn" production, when using a dwarf variety like Tom Thumb, 
cut the entire plants off 2 inches above ground level, after the first main
stalk ears are harvested, and allow the crown to regrow as many new shoots as
possible.  This will produce additional suckers and shoots and result in more
ears being produced for further pickings. 

HARVESTING, HANDLING, AND STORAGE

      In western Oregon, sweetcorn harvest ranges from about early August to
mid October. The prime harvest season is from about August 25th. to the end of
September.

      In eastern Oregon harvest ranges from about mid July to the end of
October with the prime harvest season being from about the first of August to
the end of September.

      Sweetcorn yields can range widely.  Early, small-eared corn yields can
be approximately 80 cwt./acre, while main-season varieties yield approximately
130 cwt./acre, or about 300 crates/acre.  Processing sweetcorn average yield
is approximately 9 tons/acre with good yields about 12-14 tons/acre.
      
      For optimum quality and returns, harvest of standard sugary (su) and
sugary-extender (se) varieties begins when kernels reach 70-75% moisture.  
Supersweet (sh2) varieties have a much higher sugar content than su or se
varieties and maintain their sugar content longer after harvest.  They are
usually harvested at 77-78% moisture.

      Kernel moisture drops approximately 0.5% per day in normal sweet and
sugary extender corn varieties with considerable variation depending on season
and variety.  Kernel moisture of supersweet (sh2) varieties changes at a
slower rate.  All sweetcorn, regardless of type, requires immediate cooling
and refrigerated transport and handling.  Corn intended for processing should
be protected from overheating and delivered to the processor as soon as
possible.

      Limited Oregon research data indicate that there is approximately a
0.356 tons per acre increase for each decrease in 1% kernel moisture, with
considerable variation depending on season and cultivar (ranging from 0.173 to
0.792 T/A over 5 seasons and 9 varieties).  Supersweet (sh2) varieties
averaged 0.700 T/A increase per 1% kernel moisture drop (ranging from 0.225 to
1.011 T/A over 2 seasons and 7 varieties). 

      Percent cut-off increased approximately 1.04% for normal and se sweet
corn and 2.03% for sh2 supersweets per 1% drop in kernel moisture, depending
on season and cultivar (ranging from 0.04% to 1.85% for normal and sugary-
extender varieties to 1.12% to 3.38% for sh2 superweets).

      Self-propelled and tractor-pulled harvesters are available from several
manufacturers.  These come in single-row or multiple-row units of up to 8
rows.  For fresh market corn harvest some of the harvesters have to be
slightly modified so that they do not damage the butt portion of the ear. 
These modifications are generally easily made, and usually offered as options
from the manufacturer.

      Baby corn has to be hand picked at, or within 1-2 days after silks
emerge from the ear tip.  Feed corn varieties are harvested at silking, while
supersweet varieties may be harvested up to the time silks are about 2 inches
long but still fresh.  Determine suitability of ears for picking by sampling
for size.  Market requirements limit size to 4.5-10 cm. in length and 7-17 mm.
in diameter.  Ears quickly become too long and tough.  Carefully remove and
husk the ear so as not to break or damage it.  For the fresh market, ears are
generally sold unhusked.  They are very perishable and must be kept crisp. 
Refrigerate to protect sugar levels that are important in baby corn flavor
quality.  Ears intended for processing must be carefully hand husked and 
de-silked.  Process immediately by pickling or canning.

      Popcorn:  Mechanically harvested popcorn should be harvested when
kernels are between 16% and 18% moisture.  If hand harvested, mositure may be
as high as 30% provided ears can be dried quickly to the necessary storage
moisture of 13.5% to 14.5%.  In commercial production, mechanical handling 
and moisture control are strictly controlled to maintain popping volume and
quality.  Generally, popped corn that is "chewy" is too high in moisture,
while that leaving too many unpopped kernels is probably too dry and should be
conditioned.  Other factors, especially mechanical damage can affect popping
quality.

       STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Hold sweet corn at 32 F and 95 to 98 % relative humidity.  Sweet corn is
seldom stored, although occasionally it may be desirable to store an excess
supply temporarily.  However, storage for more than a few days results in
serious deterioration and loss of tenderness and sweetness.  The sugar
content, which so largely determines quality in corn and which decreases
rapidly at ordinary temperatures, decreases less rapidly if the corn is kept
at about 32 F.  The loss of sugar is about four times as rapid at 50 F as at
32 F.  At 85 F, 60 % of the sugars may be converted to starch in a single day
as compared with only 6 % at 32 F.  However, corn loses sweetness or desirable
flavor fairly rapidly, even when iced and held at 32 F.  Long shanks and flag
leaves should be trimmed before marketing, as they induce denting of the
kernels by drawing moisture from them.  Denting is an indication of loss of
quality.  A loss of 2 % moisture from sweet corn may result in objectionable
kernel denting.

      Rapid removal of field heat from sweet corn, when at 86 F or higher, is
especially critical to retard deterioration.  Maximum quality retention can be
obtained by precooling corn to near 32 F with an hour after harvest and
holding ears at 32 F during marketing.  In practice cooling to this extent is
rarely achieved.  However, cooling is the first step in a good temperature
management program.  Sweet corn has a high respiration rate, which results in
a high rate of heat evolution.

      Sweet corn can be precooled adequately by vacuum cooling, but it must be
wetted first ( and top iced after vacuum cooling).  Crated corn can be vacuum
cooled from about 85 F to 40 F in a half hour.  Hydrocooling by spraying,
showering, or immersion in water at 32 to 38 F is effective, although it takes
longer than vacuum cooling for the same temperature reduction if the corn is
packed before it is cooled.

      Crated corn would take over an hour in a hydrocooler to cool to 40 F,
and few if any, operators leave it that long.  It is important to check cob
temperatures during hydrocooling to determine if temperatures are being
lowered to at least 50 F.  Hydrocooling nomographs for bulk and crated sweet
corn are available.  Many hydrocoolers now handle palletized crates, with
crates four or five layers high.  These coolers, with overhead spray nozzles,
can be effective if they use a large volume of water and allow an hour or more
of operation.  After hydrocooling, to icing is desirable during transport or
holding to hasten continued cooling, remove the heat of respiration, and keep
the husks fresh.  When precooling facilities are not available, corn can be
cooled with package ice and top ice.

      Sweet corn should not be handled in bulk unless copiously iced, because
it tends to heat throughout the pile.  Corn should not be expected to keep in
marketable condition even in cold storage at 32 F for more than 5 to 8 days. 
The storage life at 40 F is about 3 to 5 days and at 50 F about 2 days.

      Some corn is prepackaged in moisture-retentive film, with the husks re-
moved after precooling.  The film should be perforated to prevent development
of off-odors or off-flavors.  This product is very perishable and must be
marketed with continuous refrigeration.

      Use of controlled atmospheres to extend storage offers little promise. 
Research has shown that injurious atmospheres contain less than 2 % oxygen or
more than 20 % carbon dioxide.  In an atmosphere with 2 %  oxygen, the sucrose
content of sweet corn remained higher than in other atmospheres tested.

      Some of the new, high-sugar sweet corn cultivars should improve consumer
satisfaction.  As compared with standard cultivars, which contain 3 to 5 %
sugar at harvest, the new cultivars contain 7 to 10 % sugar and also lose
their sweetness more slowly during marketing.  Thus, consumers purchasing the
sweeter cultivars after several days' storage should get corn with 5 to 6 %
sugar as compared with standard cultivars containing only 2 to 3 % sugar after
similar post-harvest handling. 

PACKAGING

      Wirebound crates, 42-50 pounds, are commonly used as containers for
corn.  Corn is packed 4 or 5 dozen per crate. 



ENTERPRISE BUDGET

      The following summary information has been taken from the sweet corn
enterprise budget for corn grown for processing, developed in 1993 by Bob
Lisec, Dan Mc Grath, and Tim Cross, Oregon State University Extension Service: 
The sweet corn budget estimates total variable costs of $357.14 per acre and
total fixed costs of $217.81 per acre, resulting in $574.96 per acre to total
cost of production.  The break-even price needed to cover variable costs is
$39.68 per ton, and the break-even price needed to cover all costs is $63.88
per ton, based on a normal yield of 9 tons per acre.  For the complete budget
and assumptions used contact one of the above-mentioned authors.


                          PEST CONTROL FOR SWEET CORN

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY

Sweet corn populations and row spacings represent compromises between          
maintaining cob size, suppressing weeds, and utilizing existing equip-         
ment.  Thus, growers rotate crops for proso millet and perennial weed sup-     
pression while depending on one or more herbicides for early and mid-          
season weed control.  Cultivation is optional depending on herbicides          
employed, soil types, depth regulations, and irrigation.
______________________________________________________________________________

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.

1.    Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve    
      maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures  
      and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.    Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed  
      will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.    Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the    
      field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed    
      weeds.

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A     
  Gramoxone Extra    

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply    
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a nonionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form 
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt 
      living cells.) 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate              Consult Labels             
  Roundup                                       
  Roundup RT                                   
  (E. Washington and                           
  Idaho only)                                    
  or Honcho + nonionic surfactant                          

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      preparation or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label
      for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species control- 
      led.  Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while
      perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a surfactant or
      ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed.  Do not
      apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops within
      12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino acids
      and protein synthesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________



PREPLANT INCORPORATED

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
butylate +              4 to 6 lb ai/A           
 safener                 
 Sutan  
 (not for seed stock)      

      Apply preplant to soil dry enough for thorough mixing and incorporate
      immediately by disking in 2 directions or rototilling into top 2 to 3
      inches of soil.  Avoid planting corn seed more than 2 inches deep. 
      Suppresses growth of yellow nutsedge and other perennial grasses.        
      Consult label regarding other tank-mixes.  Injury may occur if crop
      grows under adverse conditions such as extended cold/wet or hot/dry
      periods or pest attacks.  (Inhibits shoot growth).             
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTC + safener          3.12 to 6.14 lb ai/A  
  Eradicane                                     

      Apply preplant to soil dry enough for thorough mixing and incorporate
      immediately by disking in 2 directions or rototilling into top 2 to      
      3 inches of soil.  Avoid planting corn seed more than 2 inches deep. 
      Suppresses growth of yellow nutsedge and other perennial grasses.        
      Consult label regarding other tank-mixes.  Injury may occur if crop
      grows under adverse conditions such as extended cold/wet or hot/dry
      periods or pest attacks. (Inhibits shoot growth).               
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
cyanazine               Consult label           
  Bladex                                        

      A restricted-use herbicide.  Note crop restrictions and information in
      Preemergence Soil-Applied section below. Incorporate in top 2 in. of
      soil. 
______________________________________________________________________________

PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED 

Weed Treatment          Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
alachlor                2 to 4 lb ai/A  
  Lasso, Partner                                         

      Apply immediately before planting and incorporate mechanically in top 1
      to 2 inches of soil for furrow-irrigated corn or apply after planting
      and incorporate to depth of moisture by cross spike-tooth harrowing or
      activate with overhead irrigation.  Can be applied through a center
      pivot irrigation system.  Consult label for specific rates depending on
      soil texture, organic matter, and possible use of tank-mixes or other
      herbicide combinations.  Controls atrazine resistant redroot pigweed,
      nightshade, and purslane.  (Inhibits roots and shoots). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor                         1.5 to 3.0 lb ai/A       
  Dual                                          

      Apply preplant, preemergence, or early postemergence before weeds begin
      to germinate or yellow nutsedge begins to emerge.  Activate with  
      shallow incorporation or overhead moisture.  If furrow irrigated, apply
      preplant and incorporate mechanically in top 2 to 3 inches of soil.   
      Consult label for specific rates depending on soil texture and especial-
      ly organic matter or for restrictions on planting sensitive crops within
      4 to 5 months. (Inhibits roots and shoots).
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
butylate + safener      4 to 6 lb ai/A
  Sutan +
  (not for seed stock)

      In semi-arid regions of Eastern Oregon, Eastern Washington, and Idaho,
      may be surface applied immediately after planting to dry soil (at least
      0.5 inch deep) that remains free of dew and incidental moisture and
      incorporated with overhead irrigation within 36 hours.  Note other
      remarks and limitations described above.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine                1.6 to 2.4 lb ai/A   
  several brands                                

      A restricted-use herbicide.  Apply preplant or preemergence by selecting
      rates depending on soil type listed on the label.  Activate with over-   
      head irrigation within 7 days or incorporate mechanically in top 2
      inches of soil for rill irrigated fields east of the Cascades.  Poor
      control of barnyardgrass and yellow foxtail will result if the soil
      surface remains dry or these grasses grow beyond the 2-leaf stage. 
      Quackgrass can be controlled with 4 lb applied once or a split   
      application of 2 lb.  Avoid planting crops other than corn during the
      season of treatment.  Other crops can be planted the following year 
      west of the Cascades if treated before June 10 with 2 lb or less per
      acre; east of the Cascades, corn should be planted using other herbi- 
      cides the following year.  Often, tank-mixes or applications of herbi-
      cides will improve control of resistant weeds.  Do not graze treated  
      area or feed treated forage to livestock for 21 days following applica-
      tion, nor apply more than 4 lb ai/A per year.  Following harvest,  plow
      and thoroughly mix the soil to reduce possible injury.  (Inhibits
      photosynthesis). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
cyanazine               Consult label            
  Bladex                                        

      A restricted-use herbicide.  Note crop rotation restrictions stated on
      the label.  Apply either preplant incorporated (2 in. deep) or pre-      
      emergence and activate with rainfall, irrigation, or rotary hoeing
      within 10 days.  Select rates depending on soil type and organic matter  
      listed on label.  Adjust ratios of cyanazine and atrazine depending on
      expected grass or broadleaf infestation according to label directions. 
      Note restrictions for both products, especially sweet corn cultivars,
      crop rotations, and feeding of livestock.  Other tank-mixes are la-
      belled.  (Inhibits photosynethesis.)
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE SOIL AND/OR FOLIAR-APPLIED 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine with           1 to 2 lb ai/A            
  crop oil              +                         
                        1 gal crop oil            

      A restricted-use herbicide.  Apply postemergence before grass weeds
      exceed 1.5 in. and broadleaf weeds 4 to 6 in., but before corn is 20 to
      30 inches tall.  Use lower water carrier volumes to improve activity.    
      Do not exceed 1 to 1.5 lb ai/A when wheat is expected to follow in the
      rotation.  Consult label for replanting sensitive crops within 12 to 24
      months.  Do not apply more than 1 time per season except as suggested to
      suppress yellow nutsedge and Canada thistle.  Reduce potential residues
      in soil by avoiding applications exceeding 2 lb or select other herbi-
      cides.  (Inhibits photosynthesis). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon                0.75 to 1.0 lb ai/A      
  Basagran            

      Apply to small annual broadleaf weeds (see label for maximum weed size). 
      Use higher rate with crop oil concentrate applied 2 times, 7 to 10 days
      apart for Canada thistle and yellow nutsedge.  Irrigate before applica-
      tion to ensure vigorous weed growth.  Poor control is achieved when day
      and night temperatures are below 75 F and 55 F.  Use a minimum of 5 gal
      water per acre and at least 40 psi to ensure thorough coverage of weed
      foliage.  Temporary leaf speckling may occur, but plants continue growth
      without further symptoms within 10 days. Do not apply to corn growing
      under stress conditions, nor mix with other pesticides. Do not apply
      more than 2 lb ai/A per season. (Inhibits photosynthesis).      
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon                2.0 to 3.5 pts.           
   +                    product/A                 
  atrazine                                      
  Laddok                                        

      Atrazine is a restricted-use herbicide.  Use only in Western Oregon and
      Washington.  Apply early postemergence when weeds are small and actively
      growing.  Adjust rates depending on weed size listed on label. Controls 
      broadleaf weeds.  Note limitations for atrazine and bentazon above. 
      (Inhibits photosynthesis.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
amethryn                1.6 to 2.0 lb ai/A     
  Evik                                          

      Apply as a postemergence directed spray aimed downward or across base of
      corn plant.   Wild proso millet control requires early season sup-
      pression using a preplant or preemergence treatment that achieves a
      growth differential between the weed and crop.  Selectivity is achieved
      by accurate placement below actively growing corn leaves using drop
      nozzles, gauge wheels, and leaf  lifters to protect corn.  Add a
      surfactant (0.5% of spray volume) in a minimum of 20 gal water/A to
      ensure thorough coverage.  Do not spray over top of corn or within 3
      weeks of tasseling.  Consider grain rotations planted in the fall after
      treatment, but do not plant other crops until the following year. 
      Grazing is possible after 30 days.  (Inhibits photosynthesis; acts like  
      contact.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D                   0.5 to 0.75 lb acid equivalent/A       
  amine,                                        
  oil-soluble amine,                            
  or diamine acid                               

      Apply after corn is tall enough for use of drop nozzles between rows. 
      Use the same precaution in spraying 2,4-D as suggested under winter
      cereals to avoid drift injury.  Avoid contact with corn foliage to
      reduce brittle stalks and whorl distortion that prevents tassel 
      emergence.  Do not apply from tasseling to dough stage of corn.  Crop
      injury is more likely to occur if corn is growing rapidly under high   
      temperature and high soil moisture. (Mimics natural plant hormones). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.25 to 12.8 fl oz/A   
  Gramoxone Extra                               

      A restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. 
      Wearing protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. 
      Apply postemergence as a directed spray when corn is at least 10 inches
      tall with  nozzles arranged to spray no higher than the lower 3 inches
      of corn stalks.  Add a nonionic surfactant or crop oil concentrate
      according to label specifications, taking care to avoid anionic formula-
      tions that react in the tank to form insoluble precipitates.  Acts as
      contact; absorbs energy    produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides
      that disrupt living cells.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
sethoxydim              0.19 lb ai/A              
  Poast                         

      Apply as a postemergence directed spary aimed downward or across base of
      corn plant.  Corn must be greater than 30 inches tall and treatments
      must not exceed 10 inches on the corn stalk.  Drop nozzles, shields,
      leaf lifters, and gauge wheels will reduce potential injury.  Also corn
      varieties that tiller profusely may be injured.  (Inhibits fatty acid
      production, cell membranes, and new growth).
______________________________________________________________________________





QUACKGRASS AND OTHER PERENNIAL GRASS CONTROL

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate              Consult Labels             
  Roundup or                                   
  Honcho +                                      
  nonionic surfactant                         

      Spot treat vigorously growing quackgrass patches when 6 to 8 inches tall
      by eliminating both the weed and crop within the treated area.  Spray
      before silking of corn to avoid residues in the harvested crop.  Do not
      treat more  than 10% of the acreage.  (Inhibits production of 3 amino
      acids and protein synthesis).                    
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTC,              
  butylate         
   
      See Corn Preplant Incorporated section.  (Suppresses perennial grass
      growth only). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine                2 to 4 lb ai/A            

      A restricted use herbicide.  Apply in fall or preferably spring, either
      as a single application at higher rates 1 to 3 weeks before plowing to
      actively growing quackgrass foliage or as a split treatment with the
      first application before plowing and the second application before,
      during, or after planting before weeds are 1.5 inches tall.  Addition of
      a nonionic adjuvant will enhance control.  Wild proso millet control is
      poor.  Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 12 to 24 months
      depending on time of applica- tion and total amount applied.  Select
      other herbicides with reduced soil persistence to reduce carryover. Do
      not graze treated area or feed treated foliage to livestock for 21 days
      following treatment.  (Inhibits photosynthesis).       
______________________________________________________________________________

WILD PROSO MILLET CONTROL

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Biology and management                        

      Wild proso millet mimics sweet corn growth.  Seeds mature before corn
      harvest, thereby facilitating spread with machinery.  Seed longevity in
      soil, however, is relatively short maybe 3 to 5 years.  Control strate-
      gies include crop rotation involving short-cycle or broadleaf crops,
      narrow row spacings (20 inches in midwest), late planting dates, and
      combinations of pre-and postemergence herbicides combined with appropri-
      ate application equipment.  Postemergence herbicide applications depend
      on a height differential between corn and wild proso millet.  Early
      season millet suppression or control is essential with nitrogen manage-
      ment, preemergence herbicides, and cultivation.  (Reduce seed bank,
      improve crop competition, and delay early growth for proper placement of
      a non-selective postemergence herbicide.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor         

      See Preemergence Soil-Applied section.  (midwest evidence suggests
      slightly less effective than herbicides such as vernolate.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
ametryne            

      See Postemergence Soil and/or Foliar-Applied section.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat            

      See Postemergence Soil and/or Foliar-Applied section.
______________________________________________________________________________

YELLOW NUTSEDGE CONTROL 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EPTC,               
  butylate            

      See Corn Preplant Incorporated section.  (Suppresses yellow nutsedge
      emergence, but does not kill nutsedge tubers.)
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
metolachlor         

      See Corn Preemergence Soil-Applied section.  (Applications inhibit new
      tuber formation and reduce infestations.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon            

      See Corn Postemergence section.  (Controls tubers in Oregon with split
      treatments applied under warm weather conditions). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
atrazine                 2 to 4 lb ai/A            

      A restricted-use herbicide.  Apply either single or split applications
      according to one of 6 alternative control methods listed on label. 
      Yearly applications or use of other herbicides can reduce populations if
      few plants survive the growing season.  Consult label for planting
      sensitive crops within 12 to 24 months depending on time of application
      and total amount applied.  (Inhibits photosynthesis).         
______________________________________________________________________________






Canada Thistle Control 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bentazon            

      See Corn Postemergence section. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,4-D               

      See Corn Postemergence section. 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate                      Consult Labels               
  Roundup or               
  Honcho +                 
  nonionic                
  surfactant                                    

      Apply at late bud to early bloom stage of thistle, but before silking of
      corn.  Spot spray thistle patches eliminating both the weed and crop
      within the treated area.  Spray before silking of corn to avoid residues
      in the harvested crop.  Do not treat over 10% of the acreage. (Inhibits
      production of 3 amino acids and protein synthesis).         
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                 Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids                                      Lorsban 4E - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
Several species                                                       
                                            Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
Plant lice. Suck sap, may be-                                         
come very abundant on leaves,               endosulfan - 1 lb     
especially in eastern Oregon.               Do not feed treated forage.        
                                            For fresh market use only.
WARNING: Microencapsulated methyl                 
parathion (Penncap-M) should never          Phosdrin - 0.5 lb                 
be sprayed on pollen-shedding corn,
including adjacent fields and               malathion - 1 lb                   
blooming weeds in field edges or                
adjacent fields.  If misused,               Penncap-M - 0.5 to 0.75 lb        
this formulation is especially            
hazardous to honey bees and other           Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb          
pollinating insects because of              
its strong tendency to contaminate          Di-Syston - 1 lb
pollen.                                                                        
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corn earworm                                carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb           
Heliothis zea                                                          
                                            WARNING:  Carbaryl dust should 
Large, green, brownish or red-              never be applied to pollen- 
dish worms that feed on silk                shedding corn because of severe 
and kernels of the ear.                     hazard to pollinating bees.  
                                             
                                            Lannate - 0.45 lb         

                                            Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb

                                            Penncap-M - 0.5 to 1.0 lb 

                                            WARNING:  Microencapsulated
                                            methyl parathion (Penncap-M) 
                                            should never be sprayed on 
                                            pollen-shedding corn, including 
                                            adjacent fields, and blooming 
                                            weeds in field edges or 
                                            adjacent fields. If misused, 
                                            this formulation is especially 
                                            hazardous to honey bees and 
                                            other pollinating insects 
                                            because of its strong ten-      
                                            dency to contaminate pollen.   
                                             
                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
                                                                      
                                            Lorsban 4E - 0.75 to 1.0 lb   
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corn rootworms                              phorate - 1.2 oz ai/1000 row 
Diabrotica spp/in part                      ft.      
                                                  
Larvae feed on roots of corn                Counter 15G - 1.2 oz ai/1000
causing stunting, lodging, and              row ft.        
occasional death of plants.                 
Larvae are inch long, white                 Dyfonate - 0.75 to 4 lb
with brown-yellow heads. Only                              
an occasional, primarily loca-              Lorsban 15G - 0.075 lb ai/1000
lized problem on field corn                 row ft.
grown in the north coast re-                
gions and portions of Idaho.                Lorsban 4E - 3 lb
                                                                               
                                            Furadan - 1.2 oz ai/1000 row
                                            ft.   

                                            Mocap - 0.075 lb ai/1000 row 
                                            ft.   
                                            diazinon - 0.04 to 0.078 lb per   
                                            1000 row ft.

                                            Di-Syston - 0.075 lb ai per
                                            1000 row ft.    

                                            Holdem - 6 to 10 oz product/1,000  
                                            row ft. (ethoprop + phorate)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corn rootworm: Adults including             To control adult beetles use:  
Diabrotica undecimpunctata                                                
                                            methoxychlor - 1 to 2 lb       
Yellowish-green, black-spotted                                             
beetle. Sometimes feed on new               Diazinon - 1 to 1.25 lb        
silks causing unfilled ears.                Highly toxic to bees.
Observations indicate noticeable                
damage occurs when populations              Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb
reach 2 per ear.
                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb 
                                                                       
                                            Lorsban 4E - 0.5 to 1 lb          
                                                                       
                                            Lannate - 0.225 to 0.45 lb
                                                                       
                                            malathion - 0.94 lb        

                                            carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms and Armyworms                      Lorsban 4E - 1 to 2 lb preplant
Various spp.                                for cutworms. 1.0 to 1.5 lb     
                                            postemergence for cut-          
Reddish, green, or black worms.             worms and 0.5 to 1 lb for       
Tunnel into base of plant, cut              armyworms.                      
off seedlings or feed on foliage.                                          
                                            Lorsban 15 G - 1 to 2 lb pre-
                                            plant - 0.075 to .15 lb ai/   
                                            1000 row ft. at planting.        
                                            Cutworms only.       
                                                                            
                                            Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb

                                            trichlorfon - 0.5 to 1 lb       
                                                                            
                                            carbaryl bait - 2 lb            
                                                                            
                                            Lannate - 0.45 lb              
                                            Fall armyworm only.
                                            
                                            methoxychlor - 2.25 lb          
                                            Armyworm only          
                      

                                            Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 
                                            qt.  Use a spreader-sticker to 
                                            enhance control.

                                            permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb      
                                            
                                            Mocap - 0.075 lb ai/1000   
                                            row ft.  Black cutworm only.
                                                                            
                                            diazinon - 2 to 4 lb            
                                            Cutworms only.              
                                            
                                            malathion - 0.94 to 1.25 lb     
                                            Armyworms only. 
                       
                                            Dyfonate 4E - 4 lb              
                                            Black cutworm only.

                                            Penncap-M - 0.5 to 0.75 lb for 
                                            armyworms. l.0 lb for black 
                                            cutworm.

                                            WARNING:  Microencapsulated
                                            methyl parathion (Penncap-M) 
                                            should never be sprayed on 
                                            pollen-shedding corn, including 
                                            adjacent fields, and blooming 
                                            weeds in field edges or 
                                            adjacent fields. If misused, 
                                            this formulation is especially 
                                            hazardous to honey bees and 
                                            other pollinating insects 
                                            because of its strong ten-      
                                            dency to contaminate pollen.   

                                            Furadan 15G - 1.2 oz ai/1000 
                                            row ft.

                                            Holdem - 10 oz product/1,000
                                            row ft. (ethoprop + phorate)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Western bean cutworm                        carbaryl - 2 lb           
Loxagrotis albicosta                                                 
                                            Asana - 0.0125 to 0.025 lb
Large, brown larvae that enter                                        
ears at any point and feed on               permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
kernels.                                    
                                            Lorsban 4E - 1 to 1.5 lb  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------



Garden Symphylan                            Mocap - .075 lb ai/1,000 row ft   
Scutigerella immaculata
                                            Lorsban 15G - 0.075 to 0.1 lb     
Small, white, centipede-like ani-           ai/1000 row ft.                   
mals in soil.                                                                 
                                            Lorsban 4E - 1 to 2 lb            
                                                                              
                                            Dyfonate 4E, 10G or 20G - 2 lb     
             
                                            diazinon - 10 lb                  

                                            Telone II or C-17 - preplant

                                            Holdem - 10 oz product/1,000
                                            row ft (ethoprop + phorate)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grasshopper                                 malathion - 1.0 lb as spray
Several spp.                                                           
                                            carbaryl - 0.5 to 1.5 lb   
May cause considerable marginal
damage in years of grasshopper              Lorsban 4E - 0.25 to 0.5 lb 
abundance.                                                      
                                            Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb
                                                                       
                                            methyl parathion - 0.5 lb  
                                                                       
                                            diazinon- 0.5 lb           
                                                                       
                                            Furadan - 0.125 to 0.25 lb

                                            Penncap-M - 0.25 to 0.75 lb

                                            WARNING:  Microencapsulated     
                                            methyl parathion (Penncap-M) 
                                            should never be sprayed on 
                                            pollen-shedding corn, including 
                                            adjacent fields, and blooming 
                                            weeds in field edges or 
                                            adjacent fields. If misused, 
                                            this formulation is especially 
                                            hazardous to honey bees and 
                                            other pollinating insects 
                                            because of its strong ten-      
                                            dency to contaminate pollen.   
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Slugs                                       metaldehyde baits       
---------------------------------------------------------------------------





Seedcorn maggot                             Seed Treatment
Delia platura                               Lorsban 50SC - 1 oz ai/100
                                            lb of seed                      
White larvae of a fly. Attack                                              
germinating seeds and may                   Soil Treatments               
destroy planting.  Damage
most serious during cool, wet               Counter 15G - 1.2 oz ai/1000
weather.                                    row ft.     
                                                                            
                                            Thimet 20G - 1.2 oz ai/1000     
                                            row ft.                         
                                                                            
                                            Dyfonate 10G or 20G - 4 lb
                                                                            
                                            Lorsban 15 G - 0.075 lb ai/     
                                            1000 row ft.                    
                                                                    
                                            Lorsban 4E - 2 lb
        
                                            diazinon 50W - .25 lb ai/bu     

                                            Furadan - 1.2 oz ai/1,000 lin 
                                            ft of row at planting             

                                            Germate Plus - 1.8 oz of 
                                            formulation/50 lb seed.  
                                            Planter box treatment.

                                            Holdem - 1 to 8 oz. product/
                                            1,000 row ft. (ethoprop + phorate)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites                                Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
                                                                       
Tiny, spiderlike animals lo-                Di-Syston E - 0.5 to 1.0 lb      
cated on underside of leaves.                                          
Cause yellowing or silvering of             Di-Syston 15 G - 1 lb 
leaves. Feed on plant juices                                           
and may contribute to early                 Thimet 20G - 1.2 oz ai/1000      
maturity and poor quality of                row ft.                        
corn.                                                           
                                            Comite - 1.6 to 2.4 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrips                                      Metasystox-R - 0.375 to 0.5 lb
probably Frankliniella 
                                            malathion - 1 lb                 
Small yellowish insects about                                                
1/25 inch long. Rasp young                  Di-Syston EC - 1 lb              
tender leaves of small seedling                                              
plants. Treatment rarely justi-             Di-Syston 15G - 1 lb             
fied and only then on very small
plants under water stress.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   Dasanit - 0.5 to 1 lb            
Ctenicera and 
Limonius spp.                               diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
                                                                             
Brown, jointed larvae of click              Dyfonate - 4 lb                  
beetles. Kill young plants,                                                  
weaken older ones.                          Lorsban 15G - 2 lb preplant      
                                            or 0.075 to 0.15 lb ai/1000 
                                            row ft.       
                                                                             
                                            Lorsban 4E - 2 lb                
                                                                             
                                            Counter 15G - 1.2 to 2.4 oz      
                                            ai/1000 row ft.                  
                                                                             
                                            Furadan 15G - 1.2 oz ai/1000     
                                            row ft.                          
                                                                             
                                            Mocap - 0.075 lb ai/1000 row 
                                            ft.  

                                            Telone II or C-17 Preplant.

                                            Germate Plus - 1.8 oz of 
                                            formulation/50 lb seed.  
                                            Planter box treatment.

                                            Holdem - 6 to 8 oz product/
                                            1,000 row ft (ethoprop + phorate)
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________


DISEASE CONTROL

     Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases.  Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes.  Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

SWEET CORN -- BACTERIAL SOFT ROT

Cause: Erwinia sp.

Symptoms: Soft rot of the stalk at nodes and where base of leaf joins the
stalk. Severe losses have occurred in Oregon and Washington plantings in
recent years. Collection of moisture at the base of the leaf from overhead
irrigation, especially if nitrogen is applied by over-head irrigation, or
heavy dews, is believed to be one of the contributing factors. In Oregon, the
disease is usually more severe when stagnant water is used for irrigation. Use
well water if possible.  Observations in Washington indicate that the disease
is frequently severe in plantings grown in sulfur-deficient soils. The variety
`Jubilee' is very susceptible to the disease.

Control:

1.  Furrow irrigate if possible.

2.  Suggest for trial, applications of copper-containing fungicides to protect
the stalk, nodes, and leaf sheaths.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN -- MAIZE DWARF MOSAIC

Cause: A virus. The disease was first found in Ohio in 1962 and was not known
to occur in the Pacific Northwest until 1977 when losses in sweet corn
occurred in the Twin Falls area. Severe losses have occurred most years since
1962 in most of the major corn-producing states east of the Rocky Mountains
and in California.

Symptoms: Initial symptoms appear as small chlorotic spots and streaks
generally concentrated in the lower one-third of the newly forming leaves in
the whorl of the plant. These spots and streaks may coalesce to form light
green or yellow mosaic patterns on the leaves.  Stunting may or may not be
present. The mosaic symptoms may increase in extent and intensity over time,
but frequently decrease in intensity later in the season making identification
based on leaf symptoms difficult or of questionable accuracy. Where stunting
occurs, plants may be only one-third to one-half as tall as healthy plants.
Infected plants may be barren or, where ears are formed, seed fill may be
spotty and incomplete.

Maize dwarf virus is transmitted in nature by aphids and can infect sorghum,
Johnson grass, yellow foxtail, crabgrass, and other wild grasses. Strains
differ in host range. Strain B cannot be transmitted to Johnson grass.
Symptoms may appear in as little as 5 days after infection. Usually infections
have been found where Johnson grass is in close proximity.

Control: Early seeded sweet corn may escape aphid flights. Varieties of sweet
corn vary in tolerance. Some are tolerant at some locations but not at others.
More information is needed on virus-strain, variety interaction before
varietal recommendations can be made.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SWEET CORN -- ROOT, STALK, AND EAR ROT

Cause: Several fungus organisms which overwinter on corn crop residue, in the
soil, or are carried on the seed. Incidence of the root and stalk rot phase is
associated with moisture stress and overfertilization with nitrogen.

Symptoms: Brown decayed spots appear on the roots, and the disease moves into
the crown. Root rot is usually, but not always, accompanied by stalk or ear
rot. Root and stalk rot causes premature dying and the rotted stalks break
over as the crop matures. Ear rot may be recognized by white, gray, pinkish,
or dark fungus growth over the kernels.

Control: Use disease-free seed chemically treated with Arasan or captan. Crop
rotation and clean plowing, or removal of dead corn stalks and leaves, reduces
the amount of disease. Do not overfertilize with nitrogen. Avoid root pruning
when closely cultivating, and injecting fertilizer.  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN -- SEED ROT AND SEEDLING BLIGHT

Cause: Several fungus organisms which overwinter on corn crop residue, in the
soil, or are carried on the seed.

Symptoms: In the cold soils, seeds decay or seedlings die before they emerge.
In warmer soils, seedlings usually emerge but are stunted and have brown,
rotted roots and crowns.

Control: Seed treatment with Thiram, Vitavax, or captan. Select planting sites
and dates to take advantage of warm soils. Crop rotation and destroying old
corn stalks is helpful.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN -- SEED TREATMENT

Aids in control of seed decay and damping-off.

Sweet corn--1.5 oz dry, 4.0 oz slurry actual/100 lb. Considered to be a
nonfood use.

Where Pythium is a problem, apply Apron 25W at 4 to 14 oz/cwt of seed or
Anchor flowable at 0.75 to 1.5 oz/cwt of seed.

Baytan 30 F (commercial seed treaters only) use 3 fl oz product/cwt seed for
head smut (Sphaelotheca reiliana).

Captan 75 Seed Protectant 2 oz/bushel. Considered to be a nonfood use.

Vitavax 200--37.5 percent Vitavax 37.5 percent thiram use 4 oz of the prod-
uct/100 lb of seed. This formulation is preferred to other Vitavax formula-
tions.

Vitavax 34 percent flowable use 2 to 4 fl oz/100 lb seed.

Vitavax 25-DB use 4 to 6 oz/100 lb seed.
Vitavax + thiram--4 oz of formulation of 37.5 percent Vitavax and 37.4 percent
thiram/100 lb of seed. Vitavax tolerance 0.2 ppm.  Thiram-- considered to be a
nonfood use.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN -- SMUT (Common)

Cause: Ustilago maydis, a fungus which overwinters as spores. It is possible
that the spores may survive 2 or 3 years. When corn stalks have been fed to
cattle, the spores are carried in the manure. Spores may be windblown long
distances.

In the Pacific Northwest the fungus attacks only the corn plant. The younger
the plant the more susceptible it seems to be. After the ears have formed, it
becomes rather resistant. Any part of the plant above ground may become
infected, but the ear is most commonly affected.  Infection is increased when
there is injury from hail, removal of tassels, earworm, or borers.

In the warm season the amount of smut present coincides closely with the
degree of moisture in the soil, especially during June. When temperatures are
lower than average, there may be little smut even though soil moisture is
high. Moist soil that has had applications of manure generally favors smut
infection.

Below 61 F there is little spore germination. Optimum for spore germination,
is 79  to 100 F.

`Jubilee', the most popular variety, is susceptible to smut.

Symptoms: A ball composed of a white smooth covering of corn tissue enclosing
a great mass, sometimes 4 or 5 inches in diameter, of black, greasy, or
powdery spores. The covering becomes dry and brittle, breaks open, and permits
the black powdery content to sift out. There is no stringy mass of vascular
tissue as in head smut.

Control: Control measures are unsatisfactory. Planting tolerant varieties
offers the best control.  

1.  Seed treatment is of no value--the spores are not transmitted with the
corn seed.

2.  The best hope seems to lie in developing an area or community control
program in which growers go through their fields two or three times a season
cutting out the smut balls before they break open. Such a program should be
carried on for 2 to 3 years. After the smut balls are removed, they should be
placed in a receptacle that will not permit the spores to spill out, then
burned or buried deeply.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CORN -- SMUT (Head)

Cause: Sphacelotheca reiliana, a fungus that survives as spores in the soil.
It is not known how long the spores will remain viable in the soil, but they 

have been known to persist at least 5 to 7 years. Spores may be windblown long
distances.

The fungus has been observed only on corn in the Pacific Northwest however,
two strains of the fungus occur which can infect sorghum.  There is only one
corn-infecting strain known at present.

Infection is reported to occur while the corn plant is in the seedling stage
however, greenhouse studies have demonstrated that infection can occur several
weeks after the corn has been planted. After infection, the fungus develops
systemically in the plant.

Infection may occur at soil temperatures as low as 59 F, but it occurs more
readily at higher soil temperatures (68  to 86 F). The fungus is not inter--
nally seedborne but can be carried on the surface of the seed.

Symptoms: The sporulating sites of the fungus occur in the tassel or ear and
on an occasional leaf. The sorus is coarse and on eruption reveals dry spore
masses with strands of vascular tissue. Infected plants often are dwarfed in
size. Dwarfing may be a dominant symptom in some varieties. The ears may be
aborted or mere rudiments with leaf buds instead of the normal ear. Usually
the entire ear is replaced by smut spores, but occasionally some will bear a
few kernels of corn. Tassel infection may be complete or partial. Infection
may be confined to individual spikelets or it may proliferate and cause
bizarre leafy structures. Some plants may have both the ear and tassel
infected with smut. In instances when only the ear is infected, the tassels
are sterile.

Control: Rotation out of corn for 3 to 4 years is the best control measure. 
Breeding for resistance has just been initiated. Varieties, however, differ in
susceptibility.  Several varieties, `Style-pak' (Ferry-Morse), `Commander'
(Asgrow), `Rapidpak' and `Reliance' have shown resistance and are useful for
commercial plantings. Two other varieties, `Goldie' and `Blitz', are resis-
tant, but are useful only in home gardens because of other characteristics.

Cultural practices have been shown to reduce the incidence of smut.  Planting
shallow (1 inch) to promote rapid germination, preplant irrigation, and keep-
ing the seed bed moist during the first 4 weeks after planting have reduced
head smut infection in plots at the Vegetable Crops Farm in Corvallis, Oregon.

Since we do not have adequate control measures at the present time, it would
be wise to restrict the spread of this disease. The most likely method of
spread within the Willamette Valley is corn pickers. When a picker has been
used in an infested field, it should be thoroughly decontaminated before
removing it from the field. The most practical method available is steam
cleaning. If steam cleaning equipment is not available, it should be thorough-
ly washed with soap and water, preferably under high pressure.

In fields containing a light infestation, rotating at least 2 years with crops
other than corn is suggested. It also is suggested that wherever possible
plant corn upwind of known infested fields. 

Seed treatment with Baytan 30 F at 3 fl oz/cwt seed (commercial seed treaters
only) will reduce seedling infection.  
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


         ---------------------------------------------------
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         This  information was adapted  by the Oregon  State 
         University   Extension  Service  from  Oregon   and 
         Pacific  NW publications as well as other vegetable 
         production  guidelines  from   public  institutions 
         in  the  U.S.  and Canada.  These  guidelines   are 
         intended  as a general guide for Oregon  commercial 
         vegetable producers.  Address comments or questions 
         to  your  County  Extension  Agent  or  Dr.  N.  S. 
         Mansour,  Department of Horticulture,  Oregon State 
         University, Corvallis, OR 9733l. 
         --------------------------------------------------- 
         ---------------------------------------------------   



From dragon@csulb.edu Mon Mar  6 10:42:23 EST 1995
Article: 56540 of rec.gardens
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From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Carrots
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 14:50:36 -0800
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                               CARROTS (Western Oregon) 
                                    Daucus carota

Types

      Paris market (approximately 60 days):  Round to "top-shaped" roots
averaging 2-3" in diameter.  Grown for specialty fresh markets.

      Amsterdam forcing (approximately 65 days):  Roots are small to medium in
size (ave. 5"), slender cylindrical shape, blunt tipped, small core and smooth
skinned.  Foliage and crown are small.  Grown for bunching and as a quick
maturing crop for market or cello-paking.  Also used for freezing and canning
especially for "baby carrot" packs.

      Nantes (approximately 70 days):  Roots are medium in size (ave. 6"),
cylindrical, generally with a slight shoulder, blunt tipped but sometimes
tending to taper.  Intermediate in foliage and crown size.  Quality is between
Amsterdam forcing and Berlicum.  Because of its high sugar content and
tenderness, some varieties of this type have a tendency to split under late
season western Oregon conditions.  Grown for cello-paking, bunching and
processing.

      Imperator (approximately 100 days): Very long (ave.9-10"), tapered,
slender roots, small core, excellent color, smooth skinned.  Foliage is
intermediate with a small crown.   Grown for market, often bunched, and
sometimes for processing, primarily for sliced packs. 

      Berlicum (approximately 100 days):  Roots are large (ave. 8-9"),
cylindrical or only slightly tapering, resembling a large Nantes.  Grown
mainly for processing.

      Danvers (approximately 80 days):  Roots average 7", intermediate between
conical and cylindrical.  Upper portion of the root is tapered toward the
crown.  Pointed or somewhat stumped  root tip.  Matures about the same time as
the Chantenay group.

      Chantenay (approximately 80 days):  Roots are medium size (ave. 5"),
conical stump -rooted.  Generally good core and flesh color.  Moderate skin
texture.  Usually shorter than Nantes but foliage size is between Berlicum and
Autumn King.  Used widely for canning, freezing and dehydrating.  Processed
where a multipurpose carrot is needed for slicing and dicing.  Not generally
used for fresh market.

      Autumn King (approximately 100 days):  Roots are very large (ave.
10-12"), tapering, usually with broad shoulders.  Core and flesh color are
generally inferior.  Skin texture is rough.  Late ripening and heavy yielding. 
Foliage and crowns are large and vigorous.  Strong flavored.  Grown mainly for
certain fresh markets.



VARIETIES

Fresh market:

      Bunching:  Royal Nantes, Scarlet Nantes (Nantes types), Pioneer; Gold
Pride (long).  For trial: Favor F1 (nantes type), Parano, Merida, Starca,
Primo, Tip Top (see note below), Imperator 58 (for deep soils only).

      Cello-pack or storage: Six-Pak (cylindrical), Six-Pak II (slightly
tapered), Pak Mor, Gold Pride (long).  For trial: Caropak, Orlando Gold,
Merida, Starca, Primo.

      Baby carrot:  Cello bags of fresh baby carrots are becoming popular. 
These are primarily "manufactured" (cut and peeled) from undersized carrots,
or pieces of carrots intended for other packs.  Because of the large demand
for this product, growers are planting high density carrots for this purpose
also.  True whole "baby" carrots are more costly and difficult to produce,
harvest and handle.  Varieties used for baby whole are Amsterdam strains:
Minicore, Grace, Indu, Amca, Amstel, Verona, Colora.  

      Specialty (high vitamin A):  BetaIII (3-5 times higher in beta carotene,
the precursor of vitamin A); Ingot (long Nantes type, also with high beta
carotene, suggested for bunching).

Processing:  Processors specify varieties.  Some that have been grown are:

      Baby whole - Amsterdam strains: Minicore, Baby Spike, Grace, Indu, Amca,
Amstel, Verona, Colora.  

      Slicing -  Gold Pride, Orlando Gold, Hipak, Sixpak, Pioneer.  For trial:
Lucky B, Merida, Starca, Primo.

      Dicing - Royal Chantenay, Red Cored Chantenay, Danvers 126 and the
hybrids Spartan Bonus 80 and Chantenay Supreme.  For trial:  Sytan (see note
below).

      Multipurpose - Danvers 126, Royal Chantenay and the hybrids Spartan
Bonus 80, Hipak, Lucky B, Mark II and Chantenay Supreme.

      Novelty:  Thumbelina, Orbit (round "Paresian market" types).

      NOTE: Research reported in England indicates that the Nantes type
variety Tip Top (Breeders Seed Ltd.) and the Danvers type variety Sytan
(Clause Ltd.) showed resistance to carrot rust fly.

SEED COMPANIES

Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Bejo Seeds, 1323 E. Fir St. Mount Vernon WA 98273
Breeders Seeds Ltd, Summerwood Lane, Halsall, Ormskirk, Lancs. L39 8KQ, U.K.
Clause Ltd, Charvil Farm, New Bath Road, Charvil, Reading RG10 9RU, U.K.
Daehnfeldt Inc. POB 947, Albany, OR 97321
Elsoms Seeds Ltd. Spalding, Lincolnshire, England PE11 1QG
Enza Seeds POB 7, 1600AA, Enkhuisen, The Netherlands
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Nunhems Zaden, Canners Seed Corp. 221 E. Main St. Lewisville, ID 83431
Petoseed Co. Inc.  P.O.Box 4206, Saticoy, CA 93007-4206
Rijk Zwaan POB 40 2678 ZG DeLier, The Netherlands
Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711-4727
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Territorial Seed Co.  POB 157, Cottage Grove OR 97424
Vilmorin Inc.  6104 Yorkshire Ter.  Bethesda, Maryland 20814
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc.  1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202

SOILS

      Deep well drained, sandy loam and muck soils of pH 5.5 to 7.0 are
desirable.  A chisel plow is recommended to work these soils to a depth of 12
to 15 inches for good root penetration.  Soils should be bedded to obtain
optimum drainage and maximum root length and smoothness.

SEED TREATMENT

      Carrot seed numbers approximately 368,000 per pound.  Use high quality
size graded and fungicide treated seed for optimum uniformity and performance.
Pelletized carrot seed is commonly used with precision spacing, and has been
found to be useful in improving size uniformity.  A number of pelletizing
materials are available, differing in weight, cost and response to soil
moisture.  Primed and coated seed is also becoming popular.  Consult your seed
dealer about the availability of primed seed.

SEEDING

      First fields of processing carrots may be seeded as early as mid-March
and the last about the first of July.  Carrots for fresh market may be seeded
as late a July 20. 

      Generally 2-4 lbs. of seed are needed per acre for fresh market or
slicing carrots for processing.  For dicing carrots for processing, 1-2 lbs of
seed are needed.
 
      Plant populations per lineal foot of bed containing 2 scatter rows (or
4-6 lines), should be 12-(24) for dicing and 30-(40) for slicing or fresh
market carrots.  

      Ideally, raised beds 4-6 inches high, on 40 to 42 inch centers should be
used.  Two scatter rows, or two multiple-line sets of 2 or 3 lines each, are
planted l2-l4 inches apart per bed (depending on bed width).  Seeds are placed
1.3 to 2 inches apart.  The lines of each set are spaced 1.5 to 2 inches
apart.  In some cases, beds 72 inches apart, with 54 inch tops are used.  In
such configurations, 4 double or triple-line sets are planted across the bed
top.  When triple line sets are used increase the distance between seeds in
the center row.  Wide beds can only be used in conjunction with overhead
irrigation.

      Schematics of planting configurations described above:

      __/!!!---!!!\___/!!!---!!!\__        __/!!!--!!!--!!!--!!!\__

      two rows of triple-line sets         four rows of triple-line
      on 2 beds on 40 inch centers          sets on a 70 inch bed 

      Where overhead irrigation and 40-42 inch beds are used, and where
modified potato diggers are used for harvest, it may be better to place the
line sets closer together and further from the edge of the bed.  This would
reduce exposure of carrots in the outside lines to sunlight as the edges of
the beds erode, and reduce the necessity to cultivate between the sets.  The
distance between the sets would be limited only by the distance needed between
planters as depicted below:

                         __/-!!!-!!!-\___/-!!!-!!!-\__

                        two rows of triple-line sets on
                        2 beds on 40 inch centers with
                        the sets placed closer together

      Seeding with a precision seeder is recommended.  Vacuum seeders such as
Stanhay or Gaspardo are becoming popular.  The Stanhay belt planter has a
special shoe that plants 3 lines l.5 in. apart with each planter unit.  The
seed belt is punched to drop 7 to 8 seeds per foot of line in the two outside
lines and 5 to 6 seeds per foot in the middle line.  The Shanhay vacuum
planter also has the capability of planting 3 rows per planter unit.  Each
vacuum plate meters seed to three separate lines.  Lines are generally 1.5 to
2 inches apart and seeds are dropped about 1.5 to 2 inches apart down the
line, resulting in 4-6 seeds per foot of seed-line for dicers and  6-8 plants
for slicers.  When triple line sets are used increase the distance between
seeds in the center row.  

      For non-bedded plantings use row spacings of l6 to 30 inches apart and
in-row stands of 10-20 plants per foot for dicing, or 20-30 plants per foot of
row for slicing (or fresh market) carrots. Use the lower plant populations
when planting single rows and the higher populations when planting scatter-
rows or multiple sets of rows.

      The use of raised beds has been reported to reduce the incidence of
cavity spot, a complex disorder recently attributed to Pythium violae and
possibly Pythium ultimum.  Outbreaks of these fungi are favored by excessive
soil moisture and temperatures of 61-72 F.  Alfalfa, wheat, cauliflower,
broccoli, celery, cucumber, sugarbeet and watermelon also serve as hosts and
so should not preceed carrot, or be in rotation with it.  Long rotations (3-4
years), good water management and prompt harvest are other suggested cultural
control measures.

BABY-WHOLE CARROTS

      Although most "baby" carrots are manufactured from standard carrots as
noted above, whole baby carrots may also be produced.  To obtain a uniform
size and shape of whole baby carrots, seed should be sown at high density and
distributed evenly in wide bands or solid beds.  The seed need not be pelleted
but should be size-graded by the supplier.  

      A precision seeder is not necessary for planting this type of carrot. 
Adequate results have been obtained by planting with a plate seeder at the
rate of 80 to 100 seeds per square foot.  At these spacings as much as 20 lbs.
of seed per acre may be required.  Planting multiple, staggered, scatter-rows
4 inches apart results in a "solid" stand when a 4 inch scatter shoe is used.
Staggered planters capable of planting multiple lines per unit (such as Beck
or Stanhay) might also be used.  30 or more lines would be needed on a 54 inch
wide bed.  Beds are generally 72 inches center-to-center.

      Schematic of spacing for whole baby carrots as described above:

                      /!!!!!!!!!!!!\___/!!!!!!!!!!!!\

                     Lines placed 1.5-2 inches apart on
                     beds that are 72 inches "on center"

FERTILIZER

      A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements.  

      Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses
are to be realized.  These practices include use of recommended varieties,
selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease and insect control, good
seed bed preparation, proper seeding methods, and timely harvest.  

      Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other
cultural practices, crop responses from fertilizer may not always by accurate-
ly predicted.  Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of specific
crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of appli-
cation.

      Fertilizer applications for carrots should insure adequate levels of all
nutrients.  Optimum fertilization is intended to produce top quality and yield
commensurate with maximum returns.

      The following recommendations are general guidelines for  Western Oregon
muck soils: the crop can use the following:



      Nitrogen: 50-100 (N) lb./acre.
      Phosphate: 100-160 (P2 05) lb/acre. 
      Potash: 80-150 (K2 0) lb/acre. 
      Sulfur: 30-50 (S) lb/acre.
           
      For the early crop, band half the nitrogen and all the phosphate and
disc in the potash.  Side dress the balance of the nitrogen after the crop is
6 to 8 inches tall.  For the later plantings one may broadcast all the
fertilizer before seeding. 

      The following are recommendations for Western Oregon mineral Soils:    

      For carrots, fertilizer materials are usually broadcast and worked into
the seed bed ahead of planting.  

      The suggested fertilizer applications are based on a 24" row spacing and
20-25 plants per linear foot of row.  

      Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to
estimate fertilizer needs.  The Oregon State University cooperative extension
agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil
sample bags and information sheets.  

                               NITROGEN (N)

      Rates of 75 to 120 lb of N/A are suggested.  Broadcast N before planting
or part of the N can be applied as an early season top dressing.  excess N can
cause splitting.

                              PHOSPHORUS (P)

      Carrots require adequate available P for satisfactory growth.  Broadcast
P and work into the seed bed before planting.  

             If the OSU soil test         Apply this amount of 
              for P reads (ppm):      of phosphate (P2 O5) (lb/A):

                    0 - 20                    120 - 150
                   20 - 50                     90 - 120
                   50 - 75                     60 - 90
                   Over 75                        0

                               POTASSIUM (K)

      For optimum growth carrots require a good supply of available K. 
Broadcast K and work into the seed bed before planting.  





           If the OSU soil test          Apply this amount of
           for K reads (ppm):           potassium(K2 O) (lb/A):

                   0 - 75                     120 - 180  
                  75 - 150                     90 - 120
                 150 - 225                     60 - 90
                  Over 225                       None

                                  SULFUR (S)

      Include 15-20 lb/A of S in the fertilizer pro gram for carrots.  S is
sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N,
P, and K, but may not be present in sufficient quantity.  

      Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate.  Fertilizer materials supply S
in the form of sulfate and elemental S.  

      Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes
available to plants.  The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually
rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil.  

      Sulfur in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time.  Some S
fertilizer materials such as elemental and ammonium sulfate have an acidifying
effect on soil.  

      The S requirements of carrots can be provided by:

      1.  The application of 15-20 lb S/A in the form of sulfate before plan-
ting.  
      2.  Applying 30-40 lb S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental
S the preceding year.  
      3.  Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre-
quently.  
                              MAGNESIUM (Mg)

      To date, there have been no observed indications of yield response from
applications of Mg to carrots in the Willamette Valley.  Trial applications of
10 to 15 lbs Mg/A are suggested with soil test values below 1 meq Mg/100g
soil.  

      Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite which is a liming material
and reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone. 
Dolomite should be mixed into the seed bed at least several weeks in advance
of seeding and preferably the preceding year.  

                                 BORON (B)

      Carrots require an adequate supply of B.  

      Apply 2 to 4 lbs of B/A (broadcast and disk in before planting).  

      Do not exceed the recommended rate of application.  Excess B can be
toxic to carrots.  

      Boron should be broadcast uniformly on the soil.  Never place boron in a
side-band close to the seed at planting.  

                              OTHER NUTRIENTS

      Responses of carrots to nutrients other than those discussed in this
guide have not been observed in western Oregon.

                                   LIME

      At present, lime is not generally recommended for carrots, as commonly
carrots are grown on sandy river bottom soils which usually have adequate
levels of calcium and magnesium.  

      A lime application is suggested where the soil pH is below 5.6.  

              If the OSU SMP Buffer         Apply this amount
              test for lime reads:            of lime (T/A):

                    Below 5.2                     4 - 5
                    5.2 - 5.6                     3 - 4
                    5.5 - 5.9                     2 - 3
                    5.9 - 6.2                     1 - 2
                    Over  6.2                       0

      The liming rate is based on 100-score lime.  

      Lime should be mixed into the seed bed at least several weeks before
seeding and preferably the preceding year.  A lime application is effective
over several years.  

      Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.2) and a
low pH (below 5.3). This condition can be caused by the application of
acidifying fertilizer. In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH
of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the
soil. This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered following
recent applications of most nitrogen fertilizer materials. Acidifying fertil-
izers also have a long term acidifying effect on soil which is cumulative and
leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings.  

      Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some-
times record low pH and high SMP buffer values.  In such cases, a light
application of lime (1 to 2 tons/A) should suffice to neutralize soil acidity. 

      For acid soils low in Mg (less than 0.5 meq Mg/100g soil) one ton/A of
dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source.  Dolomite and ground lime stone have
about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity.  

      These recommendations are based on experiments conducted by Horticulture
and Soils departments researchers  of the OSU Agricultural Experiment Station
and Extension Service as quoted form the OSU Fertilizer Guide FG 29.   

ROW COVERS

      Research in England and at OSU has shown that fresh market carrots re-
spond favorably to the use of floating row covers.  These covers are available
in widths of up to 40 feet, and lengths suitable for most fields, allowing the
covering of about 1 acre per roll.  Researchers in England have demonstrated
that the covers can be applied immediately after seeding and should be removed
at about the 7th true leaf to maximize earliness and yield without generating
too much top growth.  OSU researchers have demonstrated that herbicides can be
applied through the row covers if necessary, and that herbicides applied prior
to covering are as effective as if applied without the covers.

IRRIGATION

      Carrots grown in western Oregon may require 14-16 inches of water depen-
ding on seasonal variation, variety, and length of season.

      Irrigation is critical during stand establishment.  Frequent application
of water may be necessary to prevent crusting and also burning off of young
seedlings.

      Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application.  Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.

HARVEST, HANDLING AND STORAGE

      Processing carrots may be harvested from the first of August to the end
of November.  The prime harvest period is from the end of August to October
25.  For late harvest, carrot fields are limited to well-drained river bottom
soils, even so, harvest schedules are often disrupted by the weather.  This is
the main reason considerable acreage of late carrots has shifted to the lower
Columbia Basin sandy soil areas. 

      Generally, custom-built, coulter pick-up, or modified potato harvesters,
rather than the belt pick-up Scott Viner harvesters are used in the harvest of
carrots for processing.  Scott Viner types are generally used in harvesting
carrots for fresh market

      Early fresh market carrots are harvested from early July to September
Late market carrots are harvested into December, and weather permitting as
late as the end of February.  The prime harvest season for fresh market
carrots in western Oregon is from the first of August to the end of November. 
Market, carrots must be over 5 inches long and between 3/4 and 1 1/2 inches in
diameter.  Carrots harvested and handled in hot weather are more likely to
decay, and care should be exercised in handling to prevent wilting.

      Processing carrtos are processed immediately after harvest, and not
usually stored.  Most are scalped (tops removed) just prior to digging.  A
reduction in yield of about 15-20% occurs when carrots are field scalped. 
Scalped carrots, and those with inadequate, or frozen tops are harvested with
a coulter pick-up or a modified potato harvester.  Carrots with intact tops
are may be harvested with a belt pick-up harvester that lifts carrots by their
foliage and allows tops to be removed in the same operation.

      Average yields of fresh market and processing carrots combined were
reported to be about 500 cwt./acre for 1990, through 1992 in the Pacific
Northwest where most of the acreage is for processing.  For the same period,
California carrot yields (which are mostly for fresh market) averaged about
300 cwt./acre.  

      For budgeting purposes, assumptions for processed carrot yields are
reported in the ENTERPRISE BUDGET section below.

      STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):

      Research in Michigan evaluating carrots that have been crowned or not,
washed or not and stored in a plastic lined bin or unlined bin found that
carrots stored best when untopped, unwashed and stored in plastic lined bins. 
Ideal storage is at 32 F. and 99 % relative humidity.  Carrots stored in
unlined bins can lose 6% to 10% of their weight.  Topping carrots and washing
them also increased losses from decay.  The worst treatment was topping,
washing and storing carrots in unlined bins.

      Store carrots at 32 F. and relative humidity of 98 to 100 %.  Mature
carrots are well adapted for storage and are stored in large quantities during
the fall and winter for both the fresh market and processing.  Careful
handling during and after harvest to avoid bruising, cutting and breakage will
help ensure successful storage.

      Mature topped carrots can be stored 7 to 9 months at 32 to 34 F. with a
very high relative humidity, 98 to 100 %.  However, even under these optimum
conditions 10 to 20 % of the carrots may show some decay after 7 months. 
Under commonly found commercial conditions (32 to 40 F.) with 90 to 95 %
relative humidity, 5 to 6 months storage is a more realistic expectation. 
Prompt cooling to 40 F. or below after harvest is essential for extended
storage.  Poorly pre-cooled roots decay more rapidly.

      Carrots lose moisture readily and wilting results.  Humidity should be
kept high.  Carrots stored at 98 to 100 % relative humidity develop less
decay, lose less moisture, and remain crisper than those stored at 90 to 95 %
relative humidity.  A temperature of 31 to 34 F. is essential if decay and
sprouting are to be minimized.  With storage at 40 to 50 F., considerable
decay and sprouting may develop within 1 to 3 months.

      Pre-storage washing of carrots may be desirable if they are harvested
under wet conditions.  Many potential decay-causing organisms are removed by
washing.  Also, clean, washed carrots allow freer air circulation.  Air cir-
culation between crates of pallet boxes in which carrots are stored is desi-
rable to remove respiratory heat, maintain uniform temperatures, and help
prevent condensation.  An air velocity of about 14 to 20 ft/min is adequate at
low storage temperatures.

      Carrots for processing may be given a pre-storage dip treatment in a 0.1
% solution of sodium o-phenylphenate (SOPP) to effectively reduce storage
decay.  The solution is not rinsed off after treatment.

      Immature bunched carrot storage life is limited by the high perishabili-
ty of the tops.  They should keep 2 weeks at 32 F. with 95 to 100 % relative
humidity.  Contact ice is recommended to maintain freshness.

      Immature or partially mature carrots should be topped and packed in
polyethylene consumer bags or 50 lb mesh bags for marketing.  Most carrots for
the fresh market are of this type.  If precooled promptly before packaging and
trimmed of all traces of leaf growth, they can be held 4 to 6 weeks at 32 F.
with 98 to 100 % relative humidity recommended.  Film bags for carrots should
be perforated to allow ventilation and prevent development of off-odors or
off-flavors.  Six 1/8th inch holes of 1 lb bags are suggested for ventilation.

      Immature, topped carrots may be hydrocooled or packed in crushed ice for
cooling.  Loose carrots can be hydrocooled from 75 to 40 F. in about 9 minutes
if the water is 33 F.  If the carrots are in 50 lb mesh bags, the same degree
of cooling requires about 11 minutes.  Sometimes top ice is used with bagged,
precooled carrots.  The top ice provides some of the necessary refrigeration
and prevents dehydration.

      Bitterness in carrots, which may develop in storage, is due to abnormal
metabolism caused by ethylene.  This gas is given off by apples, pears, and
certain other fruits and vegetables and from decaying tissues.  Bitterness can
be prevented by storing carrots away from such products.  Also, development of
bitterness can largely be avoided by low-temperature storage, as it minimizes
ethylene production.  Some surface browning or oxidative discoloration often
develops in stored carrots.  The most immature carrots are the most suscepti-
ble to surface browning.

      The highest freezing point for carrots is 29.5 F.  Severe injury in car-
rots immediately after freezing is identified by lengthwise cracking and by
blistering caused by the formation of ice crystals immediately beneath the
surface.  After thawing, a darkened and water-soaked skin is observed, and the
carrots are soft and flabby. Use of controlled atmospheres to extend storage
of carrots has not been promising.  Atmospheres containing 5 to 10 % carbon
dioxide with reduced oxygen concentrations of 2.5 to 6 % caused a marked
increase in mold growth and rotting over that of carrots stored in air.

      The most important decays of carrots in storage are gray mold rot (Bot-
rytis), watery soft rot (Sclerotinia), crater rot (Rhizoctonia), fusarium rot,
rhizopus soft rot, bacterial soft rot, black rot (Stemphylium), and sour rot
(Geotrichum).  Spoilage losses will be minimized if the following precautions
are observed:  Use new or disinfested storage containers, handle carefully to
prevent injuries, pre-cool carrots, maintain them at a temperature near 32 F.
and avoid temperature fluctuations.  

PACKAGING

      Fresh market carrots are washed, sorted, and packed in one or two pound
plastic bags packaged 48 1 lb. bags, or 24 2 lb bags per carton; or loose in
50 pound mesh or plastic sacks at a packing house.

ENTERPRISE BUDGETS

      The following information has been quoted form Oregon State University
Extension publication EM 8379, April 1988, which gives costs and return
estimates for carrots grown for processing in western Oregon. The publication
should be consulted for the major assumptions and operations used in con-
structing this information.  This budget is intended to be used as a guide in
estimating actual costs and does not represent any particular farm.

      Budget:  Total variable costs for western Oregon carrots were estimated
at $423.91 and total fixed costs at $225.26 per acre, resulting in $679.17
total cost of production per acre.  The break-even price needed to cover
variable costs was $14.13 per ton, and the break-even price needed to cover
all costs was $22.63 per ton, based on an estimated yield of 30 tons per acre.

                            PEST CONTROL FOR CARROTS

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. 
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE.  IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.

                          USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!

Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. 
Bathe or shower after each use.

Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before.  Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).

Be cautious when you apply pesticides.  Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator.  You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.


WEED CONTROL

     Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small.  Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.  

     THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY

Carrots suppress weeds when row spacings, population densities, cultivation,
and application of a single herbicide are combined.  Cultivation also prevents
sunburned or green carrot roots by throwing soilover the roots.
______________________________________________________________________________

STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION 

Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable.  The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop.  Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.



1.    Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve 
      maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface.  Soil temperatures  
      and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.

2.    Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance.  Otherwise, new weed seed  
      will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.

3.    Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the    
      field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed    
      weeds.

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming                                      

      Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
      weeds, but not consume them with flame.      
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat                0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A     
  Gramoxone Extra   

      Restricted-use pesticide.  Do not ingest or inhale spray mist.  Wearing
      protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised.  Apply    
      during or after planting, but before crop emergence.  Add a non-ionic
      surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
      taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form 
      insoluble precipitates.  Exposed crop plants will be killed.  Do not
      apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
      peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media.  (Acts as contact;
      absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt 
      living cells.) 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
glyphosate                      Consult Labels        
  Roundup                                   
  Roundup RT                            
  (E. Washington and                       
  Idaho only)                                  
  or Honcho +                                  
  nonionic surfactant                          

      Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site
      preparation or preemergence crops listed on the label.  Consult label
      for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species control-
      led.  Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while
      perennial weeds require higher rates.  Addition of a surfactant or
      ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed.  Do not
      apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops within
      12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino     
      acids and protein synthesis.)
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------


metham sodium                                       79.5 to 318 lb ai/A      
(several brands)    

      Wearing protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. 
      Metham sodium is dissolved in water for application, but activity
      depends on several soil factors that enhance conversion and movement
      from the liquid to gas phase.  Cultivate the soil 7 to 10 in. deep       
      before preparing a uniform seedbed using equipment that leaves a smooth
      surface.  Soil moisture must be adequate forseed germination, but below 
      field capacity.  Apply when temperatures exceed 50 degrees F with a boom
      mounted on the front of a rototiller.  Incorporate 3 to 4 in. deep and  
      seal surface of soil with a smooth roller, power-driven to travel at
      same speed as tractor.  Soil surface must be smooth without cracks where 
      fumigant may escape.     

      Planting may be delayed until soil is free of metham, usually 14 to 21
      days.  Plant radish seeds or transplant radish seedlings while pro- 
      tecting from wind and bright sun.  Observe for 12 to 24 hours for
      wilting.  Before planting, till the soil surface (3 to 4 in.) while  
      breaking the compacted layer formed during incorporation of metham using
      a small shank with the seed row.  Avoid mixing soil from beneath the
      treated layer.  Do not contaminate water, runoff water, or fish habitat. 
      (Disrupts cellmembranes.)
______________________________________________________________________________

PREPLANT INCORPORATED 

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin                  0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A     
  Treflan                                       

      Apply from 3 weeks to immediately before planting and incorporate 2 to 3
      inches deep within 24 hours by cross-disking or using a PTO rotary ti-
      ller.  Spray only once and avoid overlaps.  Consult label for restric-
      tions on planting sensitive crops within 12 months. (Inhibits mitosis,
      primarily in shoots).
______________________________________________________________________________

POSTEMERGENCE

Weed Treatment              Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linuron                             0.75 to 1.5 lb ai/A       
  Lorox

      Apply postemergence when carrots are 3 to 6 inches tall, when grass
      weeds do not exceed 2 inches tall, and when broadleaf weeds do not 
      exceed 6 inches tall.  Do not exceed 40 psi spray pressure.  Poor weed
      control may result when maximum day temperaturesare below 50 F.  Injury
      may occur if mixed with surfactants, nitrogen, or fertilizer solutions,
      or when temperatures exceed 85 F.  Applications may be repeated, but do
      not exceed 1.5 lb ai/A per season.  Do not apply on sand, loamy sands,
      gravelly soils, or soils containing less than 1% organic matter. Do not
      apply by air.  Consult label for planting rotation  crops within 12
      months.  (Inhibits photosynthesis). 
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
metribuzin                      0.25 lb ai/A              
  Sencor            

      Apply after carrots have formed 5 to 6 true leaves, but before weeds are
      1 inch in height or diameter.  Earlier applications will result in
      excessive crop injury.  If needed, repeat application after at least 3  
      weeks, but do not apply over 0.5 lb ai/A per year.  Do not apply within
      60 days of harvest or within 3 days of any other chemical.  Do not   
      apply within 3 days after periods of cool, wet, or cloudy weather, or on
      very hot days.  Some temporary chlorosis and burning of the leaf tissue
      may occur.  For carrots with unknown tolerance, treat only a small area 
      to determine crop safety.  (Inhibits photosynthesis.)
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------
fluazifop                         Consult Label   
  Fusilade 2000                                 

      Identify grasses and adjust rates depending on susceptibility and stage
      of weed growth according to label instructions.  Apply to actively
      growing grasses as a directed spray with 1% crop oil or 0.25% nonionic
      surfactant.  Erratic results often occur when grasses are stressed from
      lack of vigor, drought, high temperature, or low fertility. More mature 
      grasses and quackgrass can be controlled but may require two applica-
      tions.  Annual bluegrass and all fine fescues resist treatment.  Do not
      harvest within 45 days of treatment.  Grazing is prohibited.  (Inhibits
      fatty acid production, cell membranes, and new growth.) 
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________


INSECT CONTROL

     Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. 

     THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY.  CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

Insect and Description                  Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids, including the                       Phosdrin - 0.125 to 0.25 lb
"Carrot aphid"                                                         
Cavariella aegopodii                        malathion - 1 to 1.5 lb
                                            
Generally yellow in color.                  diazinon - 0.5 lb 
Winged forms marked with                     
black. Willow is primary host.              endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb         
Summer hosts include carrots.               Do not feed tops. 
Considered a vector of certain                                         
virus diseases.                             Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carrot rust fly                             diazanon - 2 lb            
Psila rosae    
                                            
Mature larvae are dusty, straw-colored, 
maggotlike, and from l/8 to 1/4 inch long. 
Worms burrow into and through roots. 
Burrows are often filled with rust-red frass.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cutworms                                    trichlorfon - 0.5 to 1.0 lb 
Many species                                                            
                                            carbaryl - 2 lb bait        
Small to large larvae that feed                                         
on roots and foliage.                       Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb

                                            Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan                            diazinon - 10 lb  
Scutigerella immaculata                                       
                                            Telone II - preplant
NOTE: Carrots planted in fields 
treated with Dyfonate the previous          Telone C-17 - preplant 
year have shown damage or excess residues.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms                                   diazinon - 4 lb      
                                                                 
NOTE: Carrots planted in fields treated     Telone II - preplant
with Dyfonate the previous year have 
shown damage or excess residues.            Telone C-17 - preplant 
--------------------------------