Subject: Re: Welding lead

From: [email-masked] (Steve Rayner)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:02:38 GMT

You can just melt the edges together.  My maternal grandfather could do 
this with a plumbers blowtorch!  The blowtorches ( Blowlamps ) used here were
fueled with white gasoline ( Naptha ), kerosene ( Paraffin ) was rarely 
used as a fuel.  As a young lad I saw him make the bottom of a lead tank, 
with only the torch, a hammer, & tin snips.  In less than an hour he 
sitting in a tank bottom, with walls 2 feet high, ready for the next ring!

In a previous article, [email-masked] (Andy Dingley) says:

>si.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
>From: [email-masked] (Andy Dingley)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Welding lead
>Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:19:32 GMT
>Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
>Lines: 7
>Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
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>
>Any advice on welding lead ?  It's lead sheet, used to make shaped
>roof flashing panels. My first thought was to make wiped solder
>joints, using plumber's solder  (I can do this), but I'm told that
>lead can be welded quite easily with an oxy-acetylene torch.  (sounds
>a little odd IMHO)
>
>Any advice ?
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************

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From: [email-masked] (Vince Catalfo)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 10:39:34 -0400

In article <[email-masked]> 
[email-masked] (Garfield) writes:
>On Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:19:32 GMT, [email-masked] 
(Andy
>Dingley) wrote:
>Mind you, I NEVER heard of OxAc being used on lead (very low melting
>point), but one BIG BIG caution with flame temperatures that high is the
>real danger of atomizing the lead, and breathing it in air.
>
>Garfield
You can weld lead, first you have to clean it if its grey or charcoal 
colored. I use a steel or brass brush, use it lightly to remove the 
oxide coat on the lead. Steel wool works good to. I use regulat zinc 
chloride paste and then solder away with a 300w soldering iron. A blow 
torch etc will create an oxide coating again which prevents the lead 
>from  sticking together, especially old lead. If you have difficulty you 
can also use the soldering iron in a scrapping motion to remove the 
oxide coating and pudle the lead.

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From: jack yates <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 13:17:14 -0700

> oxide coating and pudle the lead.

Lindsay's reprint of "Soldering & Brazing" (1925) calls it "lead burning" 
 It recommends that the pieces to be joined be laid out on a 
non-heat-conductive surface, edge to edge, and the edges melted together 
with a flame.  It further states that some filler metal may be necessary, 
this filler being more lead, of course.  clean the joint area first, of 
course.  I have seen oxy/acetylene used by a battery rebuilder in 
recasting battery posts; it worked for him....By way of disclaimer, this 
is not something I have ever tried myself.....

....yet....

			Jack