Subject: Power hacksaws

From: [email-masked] (Bill Watson)
Date: 8 Jun 1996 15:30:50 GMT

I am tired of using a hand saw for my occasional metal projects.  Any one have 
any feed back on the grizzly 4x6 saw for $199 or any reccomendations? It will 
be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.

Bill Watson

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From: PPIERCE <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:08:02 -0700

> be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.

I got one of the many 4 X 6 bandsaws being offered (Enco) and sure wouldn't be without 
it...  I had heard that the 4x6 saws were rickety and read an article where someone 
beefed up the legs w/plywood.  I hadn't felt that to be necessary.  Broke a few 
blades-due no doubt to my adjusting it...  Write out the check, get out the VISA,
or whatever.  Everyday you wait is one less day you'll have to use it..

Paul in AJ AZ

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From: Steve Wellcome <[email-masked]>
Date: 10 Jun 1996 12:41:26 GMT

As long as you view it as a "semi-finished kit of parts", you
should be satisfied with it.  I have one (not a Grizzly, but
similar) and after reworking the vise and cleaning up some other
details it does pretty well.  It certainly meets all my needs.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 10 Jun 96 09:02:34 -0500

> be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.

I invested in the < $200 Harbor Freight (uses 64.5" x 0.5" blades).  Once
I added a shelf to stiffen the legs, I've been reasonably pleased.  I've
had it for 4 years without problems, it cuts reasonably accurately, and
will (given enough time), slice thru 4" x 6" blocks of steel (the bases
for the dies on my power hammer).  Frankly, I don't see how I ran my
shop before I had it (but then I feel the same way about the Bader, the
50lb Little Giant, the swage blocks.... (g) ).

Steve Bloom (IronFlower Forge)

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From: Mike Rehmus <[email-masked]>
Date: 11 Jun 1996 16:44:49 GMT

The 4X6" horizontal bandsaw can be purchased from many
sources.  I'd elect to purchase one from the vendor
with the lowest price (including shipping).

Then, before I used the saw, I would open the gearbox
and remove all of the lube and all of the grit and
iron filings you will find inside.  Really clean it 
out as this will affect the life of the saw.

Replace the lubricant with one of the synthetic
lubes meant for worm gears / automotive rearends.
I actually use Red Line's MTF (Manual Transmission
Fluid) which is thin but works really well in this
application.  What I mean by that is that I no longer
find metal shavings in the lube and the saw still works
after quite a bit of use.  I am not a lubrication expert
however.

Then, for your first cutting task, slice up four pieces
of 2" angle iron to just fit around the bottom of the 
sheet metal legs.  Weld them into a frame, add two wheels
to the back corners and then bolt the frame onto the bottom
of the saw legs.  This will prevent the legs from collapsing
when you attempt to move it on the supplied and grossly inadequate 
plastic wheels and then run into a small crack in the shop floor.

Next, go down to the hardware store and purchase a barn door
handle and bolt it to the front saw leg in place of the bent
barstock handle that will bend the front legs the first time
you get the handle out of position.

The only caveat is that the saw is very top heavy so you want
to hold on to the new handle with a firm grip and hold onto
the top of the saw frame with your other hand whenever you
move it.  Never attempt to move the saw with the frame in the
upright position.  Unless you work on a soft rubber floor.

Hope this helps,

Mike Rehmus

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From: PPIERCE <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:33:53 -0700

> upright position.  Unless you work on a soft rubber floor.

Nicely put Mike.

I really like my little ENCO bandsaw.  I wasn't too impressed with the wheel and will 
probably modify they per your method.  Appreciate
your comments on this and other subjects.

Paul in AJ AZ

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From: "John R. Johnson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:23:06 -0500

Mike, the only thing I could add to your nice summary of 
required initial setup would be to take the blade/blades
that came with it and dispose of them safely.  Then install
a standard industrial quality blade.  You will have much
better luck cutting by the time you get to the fourth piece
of 2 inch angle. :-)
John

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Hanrahan)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:53:36 GMT

>or whatever.  Everyday you wait is one less day you'll have to use it..

I agree with Paul Pierce. Although they are cheap, they are effective, low 
cost and everyone I know makes good use of it. I have one and also a 14" 
vertical, but the 4 x 6 horizontal does a lot of routine cut off work. I wish 
someone had convinced me to buy one on day one, for $200 you get your money's 
worth. Buy a good quality blade (like Starrett) for it. I use 120 FPM for mild 
steel and structural angle, pipe etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  [email-masked]      Annapolis, Maryland, USA

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From: Mike Rehmus <[email-masked]>
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:07:44 GMT

Actually, the blade that came with the saw lasted
for quite a few square inches of steel.  I've 
actually been a bit disappointed with the Starrett
blades I bought from a professional supplier.

Probably a fluke.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus