Subject: WTB: Bandsaw

From: [email-masked]
Date: 11 Jun 1996 18:40:37 GMT

I need a bandsaw with the ability to cut metal and wood, and would appreciate
any advice on what brand to buy, which blade to use, etc...  Also, if anyone is
interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:52:14 GMT

>interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.

For sale: 20" Delta bandsaw for wood and non ferrous metals, new
110/220v 1.5 hp motor, saw is mounted on casters. Includes extra
blades.  Will deliver and set up 50 mi radius from Chicago. $1100.00.
Also Emmert #82 turtleback patternmakers vise, huge capacity, swivels
in every direction. $1500.00 delivered. 

 Will consider using these as partial trades plus cash  for your
Bridgeport mill, 8x24 + metal lathe, 3hp wood shaper,  delta portable
benchtop planer, 6" jointer, Williams and Hussey molder,or  Wilton C-2
vise.  

Email [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (darylb)
Date: 13 Jun 1996 20:20:04 GMT

> interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.

I would just keep your eyes open and eventually serendipity will pay off.
That's what happen to me. I ended up getting an old Oliver 15.

I don't know if you are familiar with OLIVER's but they are old, huge and
heavy (2500lbs est). Looks sort of like a giant C clamp with a wheel at
each end of the C - well sort of. The saw has two 38" (wagon size) wheels
(36" cut depth) 21" resaw capability (I can't use the full 21" since the
adjustment arm hits the roof at 14"). 20ft blades are nominal but again at
19ft-9" my wheel JUST misses the roof however it can accept down to about
17ft blades.  I am buying blades by the 100ft roll and welding them up to
suit. Unfortunately I found out about the length issue after welding up a
bunch of 20ft'ers at work on Friday for a weekends work only to find
Friday night that they all had to be shortened 3" (Monday). The shear
length of the blade causes them to run very cool.

The motor is a 5hp DC with speed control. It also has another motor/blower
for cooling the DC motor at low speeds when the DC motor's rotors arn't
turning fast enough to cool itself. It (blower) comes on when you plug  in
the machine. These things were originally flat belt driven so you could
rig up dam near anything but I can't recommend the DC drive enough. They
are wonderful!! Full torque at low speed. At 5HP I have basically
unlimited power on tap. I could compete with a small sawmill.

I have cut maple (9" thick) at about 1"/sec (3TPI 3/4" blade) and 3" bar
(14TPI 1/2" blade) over a couple of minutes. I was cutting my forge top
1/8" sheet with the 14TPI blade and it broke (too thin for 14TPI) so I
ordered a roll of 24TPI wavey (hacksaw) and it now cuts steel as thin as
you want. I have yet to try any thin blades (like 1/8") but I also have a
scroll saw and frankly a 20ft 1/8" blade might just be a bugger to mount
without twists but likely this saw could do it. would have to be carefull
on tension though.

This is my first season using it as I got it just before Christmas. It was
a bugger to move (I even had to rent a huge crane to unload it), takes up
a fair amount of floor space but now that it's in place I JUST LOVE IT.

It is the DC motor (variable speed) which allows me to also use it for
metalwork too. In fact I doubt there is anything this saw can't cut given
the right blade and speed. Just install a blade, plug it in, blower
starts, put my work on the 36" x 40" table (this part tilts there is
another table 20"x20" approx next to the arm that doesn't tilt), press
start, wagon wheels start turning, dial in the speed and CUT. All
adjustments (table tilt, blade tension, blade tracking) are by handwheels.
For blade tension the upper wheel moves on dovetail slide. Every time I
use it I just walk away beaming. I got this one for US$950 not counting
moving expenses and sorry, it is not for sale.

Happy hunting
Daryl