Subject: Re: Removing Rust

From: "Steven O. Smith" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:49:08 GMT

Gary Lowell wrote:
> 
> Hello -
> 
> I've taken on a small restoration project.  It's a old Greenfield
> #311 tap and die set.  Most everything is easily dealt with
> with liberal amounts of LPS 2 and a scotch bright pad or brass
> wire brush.  There are some areas of heavy rust - the rust has blistered
> up well above the surrounding areas.  I'd like some advice before
> I take on the heavy rust.
> 
> For really heavy rust on plain surfaces, I'm planning to scrap it
> down to bear metal.  These are all external surfaces, I don't have
> to worry about fit.  Unfortunately, there is some heavy rust on the
> knurled handles of the die holders.  If I scrape these, I'll lose
> the knurling.  I'm proceeding by saturating the rust spots with
> LPS 2, let it soak for a couple hours, and then vigorously scrub
> with the brass brush and then repeat.  This method isn't making much
> forward progress.
> 
> Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Gary Lowell
> [email-masked]

Tool collectors also use electroplating to remove rust. I don't know the
polarity offhand, but it should be easy to figure out. Supposed to work
really well.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 3 Dec 1996 03:59:18 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, jack yates <[email-masked]> writes:

>Was it cider vinegar, or distilled?
>
>

Distilled.  Didn't try the cider variety...

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 2 Dec 1996 06:04:57 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
[email-masked] writes:

>That's cute, someone just posted a message on how to rust a coffee table
>base intentionally. Another person said "use vinegar and watch it rust
>before your eyes.
>
>Who'se right here guys???
>
>

Peter -- I skipped the rusting coffee table thread, so can't really
comment...

All I can say is I been doin it fer years...  I think it occurred to me
that it might be worth trying after noting that most commercial rust
removers are acid preparations (maybe after reading the phosporic acid
warning on the back of Naval Jelly), or maybe I picked it up from the
Whole Earth Catalog or the like.  Anyway, I've derusted lots of old
woodworking tools using a vinegar bath.

And Russ is right-- it seems that after parts come out of the vinegar they
want to  develop a fine surface rust almost immediately.  I typically
rinse parts in water and an SOS pad (my description of rinsing off with
water might sometimes be optomistic depending on how deep the rust is),
then dry and immediately go over with WD40 and steel wool.

Works a lot better than naval jelly for me...