Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....

From: [email-masked] (BrnzCaster)
Date: 24 Apr 1996 06:18:14 -0400

Don
See my webpage re Hobby Metalcasting at
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
Winston

*****
Winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
[email-masked] (or) [email-masked]
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
*****

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From: [email-masked] (Donald I. Baker)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 03:04:02

I do a fair amount of plastic work, using all kinds of epoxies and plastics to 
make custom little parts.  Now I want to move up to casting of small (6" x 6" 
x 6" max) aluminum parts.

About 20 years ago in high school, we did a lot of small sand castings.  Hear 
are the things I remember:

1) Used scrap metal, old car rims, old alum soda cans, and many other true 
scrap pieces;

2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 
(spelling ?);

3) "cleaned-up" the metal goop by adding a flux and skimming the garbage;

4) Packed wold in sand (wet) and beat it tight into a wood frame, split the 
fram and removed the "mold or form item", inserted a metal spout (2 I think 1 
in and 1 "out");

5) BINGO, a metal part.

I amy also consider a "lost" mold process using wax or oter material that 
burns out when aluminum is poured in.

Now what I don't know, and need help with:

Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 
it I hope)

Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

Q5) Am I better off using a lost wax type method for small parts ?  I will 
only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 
and die grinders, etc. ?

Thanks for any help and comments.  Please feel free to repsond either to the 
list or direct EMail.  Direct is probably better, but to the list may be of 
much more interest to others.  If direct, I will forward copies to the list.

Thans again.

Don Baker
[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Peter Drumm)
Date: 25 Apr 1996 00:30:47 GMT

In message <[email-masked]> -
[email-masked] (Donald I. Baker) writes:

<stuff I can't answer deleted>
->2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 
->(spelling ?);

"ladle"

->Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

I helped cast some Al flagpole parts once, we didn't have any luck at all
with sand(too much moisture). We did have success with using plaster molds,
and baking them in an oven for 2 days before casting.

->
->Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?
->

We used a coal forge :)

One other hint- pour at least twice the amount needed for the part to force
the metal into the mold. i.e. if the part is to weigh 5 lbs., pour at least
10 lbs.

[email-masked]
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!

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From: [email-masked] (Paul Pierce)
Date: 25 Apr 1996 04:00:25 GMT

Get Dave Gingery's book 1 from:

Lindsay Publications
PO Box 538
Bradley Il 60915
815-935-5353

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  [email-masked]
  NRA Endowment Member

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From: Larry Smith <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:53:18 -0400

> Get Dave Gingery's book 1 from: 

Yes...complete instructions for building a small
forge for aluminum using a 5-gallon pail and some
clay, how to run it, how to make molds using plain
old ocean sand - including how moist the sand should
be - the whole works.  It is part 1 of a 7 parts
series he wrote wherein you start out with the forge
and build a complete metal shop, including a lathe,
a milling machine, a metal shaper, a metal saw, the
whole works.  Interesting books, even if you aren't
going to try to pull yourself up by your bootstraps
the same way.

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From: [email-masked] (Alan Heugh)
Date: 26 Apr 1996 06:13:23 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
[email-masked] (Donald I. Baker) wrote:

...snip... I've done lots of bronze casting, not aluminum, but heres what
I remember -
> Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

Be VERY carefull about water and molten metal. "slightly damp" is all you
need. Use "green sand" from foundry suppliers, sometimes glycerine is used
instead of water (highly advisable).
 
> Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Make one with refractory matting from pottery supplies - line the inside
of a steel 5 gal. can, hook up a blower (reverse vacuum cleaner or cheap
squirrel cage type) with a steel pipe angling into the bottom of the can
to swirl the flame. You don't need very much air so you may need to slow
down the blower or put a valve in the air tube. Make a lid with the same
material and a 4" hole in the middle. Use a high pressure propane
regulator and mix the air and gas in the pipe. I use a real crucible and
two man tongs for bronze - you'll probably get by with something less
elaborate.

> Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 

foundry suppliers know.

> Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

I'd try a small test melt to see.
 
> only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 

I doubt that you need to get involved in investment casting - thats more
useful for tight details and accuracy - sounds like you could make the
parts out of styrofoam and leave them in the sand. This will, however,
creat stinky fumes. 

Good luck,

-- 
Alan Heugh   (360) 595 2563   [email-masked]
478 Rainbow Drive
Sedro Woolley, Wa. 98284

Rare skill. lost wax carving & jewelry designing - contemporary, antique, extremely naturalistic miniature sculptures: animals, flowers, attractive human faces & figures: email for example photos.

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From: Jerry <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 17:37:10 -0400

Paul Pierce wrote:
> 
> Get Dave Gingery's book 1   
       I agree. There's no substitute for the info in this little book.
       Also, you need "foundry sand"...somewhere close by there my be an
       iron foundry (lots of folks in your town probably will not know
       about it) and a visit there is most rewarding! This was my case,
       and the foundry manager pointed to a pile of (black) sand about
       the size of a small house and said, "Take all you want!" They also
       gave me a bag of parting powder. If this sand is unavailable, use 
       something finer than "playsand." Bentonite is available from 
       pottery supply houses.
 
       Unfortunately, so many of these traditional, all-American businesses
       are going under because of the work going overseas...how sad.

       I went to a lawn-mower repair shop and got a bunch of junked
       cylinder heads to melt, and this worked great. Didn't need a flux.
       But as with molten lead, keep any moisture away from the pot!
                                      
                                                   Hope this helps,
                                                    Jerry Gregson

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From: [email-masked] (Tom Caron)
Date: 29 Apr 1996 01:54:33 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>
[email-masked] (Edk4) wrote:

> There was an article in HSM, awhile back, about making a forge from a
> domestic oil burner. This intrigued me because it seemed kind of complete
> to start off with, fuel's relatively cheap and easy to come by, and I have
> one sitting in my cellar.
> 
> The one detail missing from the article was the temperature of the oil
> burner flame. This, I assume, is pretty much of a constant given the
> burner type, and size of nozzle.
> If I ever get around to making a forge, I think I'd like the capability to
> melt Iron, so the temperature is important.
> 
> Anyone out there build one of these melters?
> 
> Anyone knowledgeable about home heating oil burners? Mine's a Beckett with
> a 1 gal/hour nozzle. (I believe the nozzles are interchangeable and a
> larger capacity one could be substituted if that's a good thing)
> 
> I did ask the guy who came to clean the system, but he didn't know and
> didn't know anyone back at the shop who did, either. It's hot enough to
> heat the house, what else do you need to know ...
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 

Hi Ed,   I built a small furnace a few years ago,  It will melt 1/2-gal of Alu in 
1/2-hour with 1/2-gal of fuel oil.     And will melt 1/2gal of brass in 1-hour with 
1-gal of fuel oil.  Never did try it with grey cast iron but have read over the years 
that it will do it.     My first meltings, I used my shop vac for the forced air supply 
until I cast a housing and blade, driven by a variable speed electric motor.  

TC
[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Edk4)
Date: 27 Apr 1996 11:30:42 -0400

------------------
Ed Kingsley

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From: "Frank J. Mihm" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 02:14:03 GMT

>one sitting in my cellar.

Ed --

This 'might' be the article you are referring to:

        "An Assist from the Forge"
        HANCOCK, CLIFFORD
        HSM 88 J/A 50 (July/August 1988 issue of Home Shop Machinist???)

I got this citation from the index to "Home Shop Machinist" and "Projects in Metal" 
magazines that is at:

        ftp://plains.uwyo.edu/metal/hsmpimix.txt

The index covers covers 1982-1994.  

Give a look -- you might find it helpful. Enjoy!

                        Frank

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From: [email-masked] (Edk4)
Date: 30 Apr 1996 00:06:09 -0400

[email-masked] (Tom Caron) writes:

>1/2-hour with 1/2-gal of fuel oil.     And will melt 1/2gal of brass in
>1-hour with 1-gal of fuel oil.  Never did try it with grey cast iron but
have read over
>the years that it will do it.     My first meltings, I used my shop vac
for the forced
>air supply until I cast a housing and blade, driven by a variable speed
electric motor.

Tom

Why did you need a source of  forced air? 

The (my) oil burner unit has it's own fan. Was yours missing/kaput, or was
the burner fan not strong enough for the job? What gal/hr was your burning
rate?

------------------
Ed Kingsley

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From: [email-masked] (Tom Caron)
Date: 30 Apr 1996 22:01:10 GMT

> the burner fan not strong enough for the job? What gal/hr was your burning

Hi Ed,
    I used the nozzle and oil pump with its electric motor from the old burner 
assembly.  The nozzle is mounted in the bottom of the furnace.   The pump is 
connected via flex hose to the nozzle and pipe assembly.
I used variations of different furnaces,   "LI'L Bertha, David J. Gingery, Lindsay 
Publications",  I used examples of a modular furnace sections, to make it mobile.   
"The Charcoal Foundry, David J. Gingery", I used an example of air inlet in his 
charcoal furnace.   "The Gas Fired Furnace, Rod Jones",  used the blower design.   
One gas designed furnace uses a Venturi for mixing gas and air but instead of 
gas, I installed the oil burner nozzle.  With a variable speed on the blower and an 
adjustment on the oil pressure pump,  you can fine tune as you go.   I really don't 
know if the orginal fan would be strong enough.
I fire the furnace with a torch, let furnace warm up, turn on air, insert crucible.  
No seconday high voltage transformer used.  Do have to watch for flame out if 
oil supply is interrupted.  When I'm melting I set up outside in the sand.

TC
[email-masked]

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From: Bruce Freeman <[email-masked]>
Date: 1 May 1996 19:36:42 GMT

I'm no expert, but I have been playing with aluminum casting recently,
so I'll throw in my two cents:

> x 6" max) aluminum parts.

A cube 6" on a side is not necessarily "small".  If these are just 
the limits of the dimensions, no problem.  The issue here is the 
quantity of metal you must melt and pour.  Obvously your pot or 
crucible must be large enough to contain it safely.  Your furnace 
must then be large enough to contain the pot or crucible.  And if 
things get too big you may need a helper to do the pour.

> 1) Used scrap metal, old car rims, old alum soda cans, and many other true 

Fine, as long as you're not fussy about strenght, and other properties.

> 2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 

See above.  A ladle (which has a built-in handle) is not the pot of
choice.
> 3) "cleaned-up" the metal goop by adding a flux and skimming the garbage;
Flux is available in moderate quantity from vocational school supply 
houses.  Unfortunately I don't have the name on the tip of my tongue.
Email me privately and I'll look a couple up for you.

> fram and removed the "mold or form item", inserted a metal spout (2 I think 1 

Ouch!  Don't think "wet".  There's clay (up to 25%) and water (up to
8%) in the sand, but it should not be "wet" as wet sand may tend to 
explode when hit by molten metal.   If you want the best results
with the least effort, I suggest buying Petro-Bond sand ($100 for
100#).  I'm still experimenting with "synthetic" clay-bonded sand, and
don't feel competent to recommend anything yet.

> 5) BINGO, a metal part.

It's almost that easy - after a lot of work!

> Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

You can buy the sand, but d****d if I know where.  Petro-bond sand
is available from the same school supply houses I mentioned, but that's
not to say you can't get it cheaper elsewhere.
> Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Build the furnace.  Spend $30 to $50 for an insulating castable
refractory.  (call A.P. Green in Mexico, MO, for a free catalog.  
Other brands will work as well.)  This stuff works like cement, and 
dries almost as hard.  GET GINGERY'S BOOK on building and using a
charcoal-fired furnace.  Available from Lindsay Publications.  There
are other books and other fuels.  C.W. Ammen wrote a number of books,
probably any of which will give a basic description of the furnace.
But Gingery's book gives explicit instructions.  Feel free to modify
the design to suit available hardware.

> Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 

See above. 

> Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

If you burn charcoal (briquettes will do), there's little problem. 
If you burn coal (I don't recommend it) you'll get coal fumes.
If you melt zinc, be very wary of the fumes - they're quite toxic.  
(This goes for brass or any bronze made with zinc, too.)
> only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 

Sand casting can work very well, and is very easy (with Petro-bond
sand, anyway).  I suggest you try that first.  
> [email-masked]

I can't overemphasize the advantages of reading up on the methods 
before you start work.  If possible, visit a foundry, or someplace
where small scall casting is demonstrated.  (Hopewell Furnace in 
PA is the only place I know of right now.)

Bruce

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From: [email-masked] (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:43:03 GMT

>        HSM 88 J/A 50 (July/August 1988 issue of Home Shop Machinist???)

I'm afraid not--It's on how to do forging for various tools in the shop.  The
only burner plans I've seen in the books use a gas or propane burner made
out of pipe.  There's an article on it in the 'backyard foundry' series by
some author whose name I have a hard time pronouncing/remembering.  (Good
Polish name--not Gingery).

Pete Brooks
>----------

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From: [email-masked] (J.A.Harvey )
Date: 2 May 1996 19:34:02 GMT

This seems to be a pretty popular thread recently, so here is my input
on the subject.

You can of course build your own furnace, but if you don't ahve the
time or ability to do so, you might want to get in touch with PYRAMID
PRODUCTS. They manufacture a complete line of furnaces and accessories
for casting.

Our #16 furnace will do over 50 lbs of red brass in a pour. Thqat works
out to about 18lbs of aluminum. 
If you call them, ask for Merle ( the owner ) and he can give you all
the details of what you need as well as tips and techniques to make the
process more enjoyable.

They also have sand, flux, and a numbe of accessories that you will
need to complete your operation.

We just got into casting our own parts, and we have been very impressed
with the quality and service that PYRAMID has delivered.

Their phone number is 1-619-354-4265, you can tell them that I
recommended them, they'll treat you right.

Jim Harvey
[email-masked]
http://hre.com/

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From: [email-masked] (Steve Rayner)
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:33:05 GMT

The late Cliff Blackstaffe made a metal melting furnace using a small oil 
burner.  It worked just fine!

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
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