Subject: Anvil Repair Electrodes

From: Colin Morton <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 02:05:28 +1000

I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel anvil. 
All I can get over here In Western Australia are electrodes with a nickel 
content. while they probably work well I would prefer the anvil face not to 
be covered in silver streaks. 
Thanks

Colin Morton  [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (J R Slack)
Date: 24 Jul 1996 08:17:57 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
>I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel 
anvil. 
[snip]

What you're looking for are 'hard-facing' electrodes (sorry I can't be more 
specific, but I'm a blacksmith, not a welder).  You might try a welder's 
supply in farm country; they're used for building up worn harrow tines and the 
like.

You'll want to pre-heat your anvil before doing any welding on the face. Dig a 
primitive fire bowl in the ground, fabricate a tuyere, build up a nice fire, 
and heat slowly from the base 'til spit dances on the face; drag 'er out and 
get busy!

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From: [email-masked] (Peter Drumm)
Date: 24 Jul 1996 22:45:26 GMT

In message <[email-masked]> - [email-masked] (J R
Slack)24 Jul 1996 08:17:57 GMT writes:
:->
:->In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
:->>
:->>I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel 
:->anvil. 
:->[snip]
:->
:->What you're looking for are 'hard-facing' electrodes (sorry I can't be more 
:->specific, but I'm a blacksmith, not a welder).  You might try a welder's 
:->supply in farm country; they're used for building up worn harrow tines and the 
:->like.
:->
:->You'll want to pre-heat your anvil before doing any welding on the face. Dig a 
:->primitive fire bowl in the ground, fabricate a tuyere, build up a nice fire, 
:->and heat slowly from the base 'til spit dances on the face; drag 'er out and 
:->get busy!
:->

No, hard-facing should NOT be used on an anvil! I made that mistake
once, trying to repair a 'hole' in the face of our 300lb. anvil at
work. It welded up OK, but the first time I used it the HF shattered
like glass. I finally used "Build-up" rods, which are soft at first,
but work harden to a depth of about .040 with use. It's been holding
up for about 10 years now...

[email-masked]
Merlin beta tester!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!

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From: David Einhorn <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:37:53 -0400

A few years back, a gentleman demonstrating at the Delaware Museum's, 
Mid-Atlantic Smith's association, Blacksmith's Days, explained his 
formula for welding anvils.  He had taken borings from the anvil and
received cooperation from one of the welding rod companies.  If I remember
correctly, he used fill rods, then 2 layers of hard-surfacing abrasion
resistant rods for the top two layers.  The anvil was first preheated in
the forge face down, then flipped over for welding.  His method was 
pretty specific in terms of temperature, and welding rods.  Perhaps 
someone online with the Delaware Guild, would have the information handy 
and could publish it.

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From: Steve Herrick <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:36:23 -0700

Try using an electrode that Stoody makes (Stoody is a hardface electrode
manufacturer) you should be able to find in a welding supply store. The
name of the electrode is "buildup". It  is very similar to 7018 in runing
characteristics, but has a higher manganese content. This puts down a weld
that is work hardenable. Be sure to preheat your anvil to 200 to 300 deg.
F. or there might be localized quenching of the anvil and weld area...

hope this helps...

Hrolthgar -   [email-masked]
           Steve Herrick

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From: "Steven O. Smith" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:34:27 GMT

Steven O. Smith wrote: (slightly in error)

> A combination which works great for me (several anvils) is a couple of
> Stoody rods. I'm pretty sure they are 1116 for buildup and 2110 for hard
> facing. These were the rods that the smiths at Sandia Nat'l Labs decided
> would work 'the best'. A guy named Hollis likes Certanium rods better;
> he says the stoody 2110 is a little soft.

My mistake. I checked the rod numbers at home last night. The Stoody
buildup rod should be 1105, not 1116. The hardfacing rod (2110) is
correct.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
[email-masked]

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From: "Steven O. Smith" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 21:05:46 GMT

> up for about 10 years now...

Not necesarily true. Question: did you use build up rod under every bit
of the hard facing rod? If not, the hard facing rod wouldn't stick.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
[email-masked]