Subject: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted

From: [email-masked] (Mitch the WoodMitch)
Date: 23 Sep 1996 01:11:26 GMT

I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale, and want to 
know its fair market value here in northern California. The lathe 
appears to be in good condition, with perhaps a replacement motor 
(German, different color, plastic housing, but otherwise appears 
correct.) The motor runs fine.

There is no manual, and the drive belts are in poor condition. I 
understand that these lathes are no longer produced. Is the manual 
available; and the drive belts? The lathe has a face plate/drive dog, 
and Jacobs-type chuck, but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
these available at a reasonable cost? 

It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.

Thanks to anyone on the NG who can steer me in the right direction or 
provide me with information about this lathe. Mitch

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From: [email-masked] (Robert Nichols)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 17:11:28 GMT

Note: E-mailed *and* posted.

In article <[email-masked]>,
Mitch the WoodMitch <[email-masked]> wrote:
:I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale, ...
:
:There is no manual, and the drive belts are in poor condition. I 
:understand that these lathes are no longer produced. Is the manual 
:available; and the drive belts? The lathe has a face plate/drive dog, 
:and Jacobs-type chuck, but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
:these available at a reasonable cost? 

There is a limited supply of parts/accessories available at fairly
obscene prices from Blue Ridge Machinery, 800-872-6500.  (Example:
$8.50 for *ONE* T-nut.)

I've noticed that Sherline has a 4-jaw chuck that will fit these
Unimats.  If you get a M12x1 tap you can make or adapt other tooling for
the spindle.

You can use large O rings for drive belts, at least at low speeds.  You
need to select O rings that do not need to be stretched too much, or
they will fail quickly.  You can also get round polycord belting
material suitable for making endless belts for use at up to 14,000 RPM.
(Available from Small Parts Inc., 800-220-4242, and other suppliers.)

:It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
:plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.

You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.  The only vertical
feed is the uncalibrated quill feed, which has only about 1/2" of
travel, and the unit just isn't rigid enough to use a standard milling
cutter on anything much harder than soap.  The rods that form the bed
will deflect visibly just from the pressure of your hand on the
carriage.  It does work as a miniature drill press, though that limited
quill travel can be quite restricting and often requires that you unlock
and move the whole head in order to change the drill bit.

BTW, for metal work the low-speed attachment is a must.  (That's the
idler pully next to the motor.  It was an option on early units; I
believe it became standard later.)  I'm not aware of any decent variable
speed motor that's a adequate substitute.

-- 
Bob Nichols         [email-masked]
Finger [email-masked] for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7

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From: Reginald barron <[email-masked]>
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:25:41 GMT

[email-masked] (Mitch the WoodMitch) wrote:
>I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale DELETED but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
>these available at a reasonable cost? deleted
 Mitch

Chucks are availaable for about $90

Reg Barron

---

From: Reginald barron <[email-masked]>
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:43:48 GMT

>provide me with information about this lathe. Mitch

A friend picked one up for about $125 from a used machine dealer.
I got a stripped down one for $100 (to use as second machine).
Someone was asking $300 for one in mint condition - over priced IMHO.
These machines are no longer supported by the manufactuer.  Blue Ridge
(and sometimes Campbell) has whats left of the parts.  Chucks are 
available (about $90) manuals about $15 and belts about $4.  Some parts 
are extremely overpriced (motors - $200).

The motor on the one you saw, may not be a replacement.  My first Unimat
came with a grey plastic motor with an orange switch.

These machines are good (again IMHO) for: 
- people with big machines already who want something for small stuff
- people like myself who started with the machine years ago, and 
  want a second one to set up vertically (and still do just small stuff).
- people who like to make their own attachments - and just do small stuff.
- people who want to learn and can get them for a tremendous bargain 
(under $100) and will only do small stuff.
- people getting a bargain and buying for replacement parts.  

These machines were fine in their day for hobbiests working with 
miniatures (like model railroaders).  There has been an awful lot
written on "improving" and making homemade attachments for these 
little guys.  Bob Loader is still writing in MEW about the Unimat-3.

PS:  a friend with a Colchester is considering making new collet chucks
for the  Unimat SL (and maybe other stuff later), write me if interested.

Reg Barron

---

From: Reginald barron <[email-masked]>
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:35:28 GMT

>Note: E-mailed *and* posted.
DELETED
>Unimats.  If you get a M12x1 tap you can make or adapt other tooling for
You can also make tooling that fits in the spindle bore and held with
an 8-32 threaded rod and nut at the back.
DELETED
>carriage.

I had the same sort of problems.  Had a fellow with some big
machines make up an adaption to give it a Z axis that allows the 
headstock to be cranked up and down.  Per the flexible ways:  one person
cut the machine in half, thus stiffening the ways by shortening.  Another 
method is to make up an aluminumdsm clamp that holds the bars together, 
and has screws thatpress against the cast bed - care is required here 
however.  Russ Tingey beefed up the cross slide by replacing one of the 
bars with one 3/8" thick.  

 It does work as a miniature drill press, though that limited
>and move the whole head in order to change the drill bit.

Z axis conversion solves that problem.  However, I have found the machine 
has a little too much torque for really small bits like #76-80.
>speed motor that's a adequate substitute.
See earlier posts per sewing machine, vacuum motors etc.

Reg Barron

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From: [email-masked] (Robert Nichols)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:19:05 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
Reginald barron  <[email-masked]> wrote:
:[email-masked] (Robert Nichols) wrote:
:>You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.
[SNIP]
:I had the same sort of problems.  Had a fellow with some big
:machines make up an adaption to give it a Z axis that allows the 
:headstock to be cranked up and down.  Per the flexible ways:  one person
:cut the machine in half, thus stiffening the ways by shortening.  Another 
:method is to make up an aluminumdsm clamp that holds the bars together, 
:and has screws thatpress against the cast bed - care is required here 
:however.  Russ Tingey beefed up the cross slide by replacing one of the 
:bars with one 3/8" thick.  

Yikes!  I opted for a simpler solution and bought a Sherline mill.

---

From: Reginald barron <[email-masked]>
Date: 25 Sep 1996 21:05:49 GMT

>Yikes!  I opted for a simpler solution and bought a Sherline mill.

With me, it was mostly economic
plus an unexplainable affection
for the little Unimat.  When I
purchased my first one they were
"the" machine for hobbyists doing
 small work.  Sherline
was just beginning to advertise
and was not generally available
(mid 70s)

I thought about the Sherline,
(and also a Cowells of course),
and may even get one someday.
But the Z axis conversion
only cost me $150, and I was
able to purchase a second
stripped down Unimat to set
up vertically for $100. The 
alluminum clamps are easy 
to make.  I also get to use
all the chucks etc.  So
far this has been OK for 
the small parts I make in 
brass and alum.

One friend, suggested buying
a drill press X Y Table and
fasten the Unimat headstock to that.
Another fellow actually made
up his own X Y table out of
Plexiglass with a Unimat 3
Headstock.  I have a drawing of
it - really neat (he makes
very small parts in brass).

Reg Barron