Subject: Re: "drive screws" on SB lathe

From: [email-masked] (Peter Drumm)
Date: 23 Apr 1996 10:48:04 GMT

In message <[email-masked]> - [email-masked]
(Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
->
->
->I was able to remove most of the drive screws in the lathe from
->behind, with a properly sized pin punch and a little force. I'm
->not yet sure how I'll remove the ones from the bed (they're in blind).
->
->I found new drive screws are available from MSC (boxes of 100, of
->course) - so at worst, I'll slot the heads and turn them out, and
->install new. They'll be zinc plated instead of brass, but that's OK.

I've got a bunch of drive screws lying in a box here, various sizes, if you'd
like i'll send you some, no charge (I'll prolly never use 'em anyway).

[email-masked]
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!

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From: Roger M Weppelman <[email-masked]>
Date: 23 Apr 1996 15:43:45 GMT

[email-masked] (Peter Brooks) wrote:
>OK, how about Atlas shaper paint?  My 7" shaper got painted an ivory-yellow,
>and the stand got that interesting shade of puke-green common in the
>50's 
>As far as I can tell, the stand was originally a dark gray, but I'd like
>to know what the shaper color originally was.  

Don't feel too bad--my Atlas Shaper ended up battle ship grey.  There are a few 
greenish spots where the grey rubbed off and the green looks a lot like the color on 
my 12 inch Atlas lathe (which I believe to be the original paint). Its a sort of 
lima bean color and it won't win any prizes. At least from an esthetic stand point, 
your ivory yellow doesn't sound too bad, But if you really want to be authentic, you 
might give the Clausing folks a call (check Thomas Register): they could probably 
give you the receipe for the original paint. I'll be curious to see what you find 
out.

Roger Weppelman

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From: Charlie Greenman <[email-masked]>
Date: 24 Apr 1996 12:16:12 GMT

I have a 1950 Logan 920 11" lathe. After reconditioning
it, I used rustoleum "clean metal primer" and then their
royal blue. Sort of flowed it on with a brush on each
piece as the lathe was taken down to the individual
pieces. That was 3+ years ago and it has held up well.
The places where the blue has gotten bunged about is
still covered by the primer. It's good paint and looks
good.

Charlie

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From: [email-masked] (Russ Kepler)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:19:19 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
Roger M Weppelman  <[email-masked]> wrote:
>Don't feel too bad--my Atlas Shaper ended up battle ship grey.  There
>are a few greenish spots where the grey rubbed off and the green looks
>a lot like the color on my 12 inch Atlas lathe (which I believe to be
>the original paint). Its a sort of lima bean color and it won't win
>any prizes. At least from an esthetic stand point, your ivory yellow
>doesn't sound too bad, But if you really want to be authentic, you
>might give the Clausing folks a call (check Thomas Register): they
>could probably give you the receipe for the original paint. I'll be
>curious to see what you find out.

What I did on my 12" Atlas (deom Craftsman, if that affects the color)
was to find some parts that hadn't been affected by wear at all, or
grime too much, and take them in and get a computer match with a
decent enamel.  It came out too close to tell the difference between
adjacent surfaces, new and old.  Now all the Metal Lathe Accessories 
kits I make are the right color.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  [email-masked]

                      Please don't feed the Engineers

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From: [email-masked] (Paul Amaranth)
Date: 25 Apr 1996 13:07:03 GMT

>still covered by the primer. It's good paint and looks

I did something similar to this with my Bridgeport.  I got some of
their grey paint, which was too light, and added black until I got
the medium machine-grey shade I wanted.  Once cured, it's been pretty 
durable and it looks pretty.  Unlike the current mills, the base casting
had the Bridgeport logo cast in.  I made the sunken background black with
white letters.  Now -that- looks spiffy :-)

I must have messed up on the surface prep on my lathe though.  The
paint on the saddle has blistered and looks pretty bad.  Oh well, I
have to have the ways ground anyway.  It'll be a good time to do it over.

Surface prep is really the key to a good paint job.  A good paint is
important, but it has to sit on a good foundation.

I'm rebuilding a band saw at the moment.  I'm thinking about using
an epoxy primer with acrylic enamel on top (non-catalyzed).  The Imron
and other 2 part paints are super performers and would probably be my
choice if I were rebuilding machines for profit, but the isocyanate
hazard isn't worth it for hobby use.  The epoxy primers are not too
hazardous and can be sprayed with normal paint cartridge-type respirators
unlike the 2 part which really require a supplied air system.

Now here's a question:  On my bandsaw I have an aluminum instruction plate
that was silk screened with the machine specs (it's in red, but they're
also commonly done in black).  It's been splattered with
paint and partially covered over.  Does anyone have a good idea on how
to get the paint off without removing the ink?  I think paint removers
won't affect the ink too much, but I'm hesitant to try.
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     [email-masked]         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html

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From: [email-masked] (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: 1 May 1996 20:39:50 GMT

I took a part off a relatively new SouthBend and had the color matched
	using Dupont Centari. Use Dupont Variprime a a base primer. Then shoot
	Centari Clear Coat on top.

I went to my local auto paint store and talked paint
with them; the two suggestions I started with were DuPont Centari
with a hardener over DuPont Variprime primer, and DuPont Fulthane which
is a VOC-compliant "replacement" for Imron.

Unfortunately, I live in Santa Clara County, CA (part of the San Francisco
Bay Area) and it's no longer legal to sell Centari here (due to VOC
restrictions). There is now a reformulated Imron which *can* be sold
here, much to my surprise. But the guy behind the counter thought that
it was really overkill for a lathe (besides being fairly toxic stuff). 

He recommended, and I purchased, DuPont ChromaOne "High Solids Acrylic
Urethane Single-Stage", which I will catalyze and spray over PPG DP40 primer
(mainly because I have some left and really like its anti-corrosion 
properties). 

I chose DuPont's standard color DS020, which is a very close match to
the patch of original South Bend gray I found under the change gear table.
It's pretty dark, but that's fine with me. I expect that this paint will be
a lot glossier than the original! A quart of paint plus a pint of catalyst
cost about $60.

(This is fairly toxic stuff; I intend to spray it in a Tyvek bunny
suit with goggles and a good charcoal respirator, outside. The pros
spray this stuff with a forced air system.)

Now I'm trying to figure out if I have an oven big enough to bake some
of these pieces when I'm done.

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From: [email-masked] (Bart Smaalders)
Date: 1 May 1996 23:01:46 GMT

<post of exotic/toxic paints used to protect lathe deleted>

I've often used the local hardware store's (Orchard Supply Hardware)
machinery paint.  It's an alkyd enamel available in a bunch of colors;
I've always brushed it on but it is supposed to be sprayable.  I've
painted my mill table, trailer and steam launch engine with it; the 
only place I've had any trouble is the engine head which gets rather
hot (250 -> 300 F); the paint there lifted in spots.

Like most coating things, cleanliness is next to godliness; a really
thorough cleaning & surface prep is more important than just about 
anything else.

Another paint I've found useful is the one-part poly-ureathanes (sp);
I've used the Red-Devil stuff.  That's the green strip on the boat
you can see via my home page :-).

- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
[email-masked]		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100

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From: [email-masked] (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: 2 May 1996 19:13:28 GMT

machinery paint.

Yah, using a DuPont paint designed for auto body work is clearly
overkill. But as my friend Ed says, I'm even crazier than he is
(I've talked to at least one dealer in used SBL parts who thinks
we're both nuts for even starting to restore a standard change lathe).

I will probably try the OSH paint on the steel bench that we're going
to make for this lathe; it's a big enough structure that spraying it 
will be difficult, and it's mostly not going to be exposed so it
will not be likely to get chipped. I may spray the top surface with
the same combination of DP40 and ChromaOne, since that *will* be
exposed and I've got the stuff.

Where do you get the one-part polyurethane paints around here (I'm
in Palo Alto)? They sound like a Good Thing.

The best paint I've found in a rattlecan is Zynolite; I used the gloss
black in mass quantities when rebuilding car parts. It's lasted
five years without a nick on the suspension of my daily driver.

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From: [email-masked] (Bart Smaalders)
Date: 2 May 1996 21:33:14 GMT

> in Palo Alto)? They sound like a Good Thing.

I found them at Home Base (I think they're out of business).  I know 
West Marine (at typically marine prices, cough) has 'em in the catalog.

> five years without a nick on the suspension of my daily driver.

Yup.  Zynolite is great stuff; we used this to paint a boat white many
years ago; the boat is now lying out in a pasture, a victim of delaminating
fiberglass.  The paint is a bit chaulky now, but still pretty servicable
many years of sun exposure later.

- Bart

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