Subject: Knorrostol Review

From: [email-masked]
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:00:16 GMT

I bought a tube of Knorrostol to clean up some rusted V blocks awhile back
(still haven't done em yet though) on the advise of The Machinist Bedside
Reader.  Anyhow, I was recently given a 3 jaw chuck for a TAIG lathe(no
excuse not to get one now!) and it had a fair amount of light surface
rust.  Well, I finally broke down and gut out the Knorrostol and had a go.
 It has sort of an ammonia smell, and seems slightly abrasive.  I put a
dab on a shop rag, and with a few light swipes the rust was off, the
surface still had a stain slight stain, but within a few minutes the chuck
looked like new.  The stuff claims to prevent further rusting, and seemed
to leave an oily surface.  I oiled the chuck anyhow.

Impressed with my success, I rubbed some on the aluminum soft jaw, and it
polished that right up.  It seems to polish like Simichrome, but I think
there are chemicals as well as abrasives at work.  Deciding I wanted to
know what it could do, I went over to my race kart.  The tuned pipes are
sheetmetal, and get a pretty good layer of rust on em if you don't paint
em.  So, I put down a good size blob of the stuff, and rubbed away.  Sure
enough, it took of that rust too.  It didn't get the rust out of the pits,
but I'm certainly impressed with the stuff.

So, I'm sold on the stuff.  I don't think it would clean up a knurled
surface, but on a smooth surface it takes the rust right off.  I'd advise
cleaning it up if you use it on any sliding surface.  It really doesn't
take much force to clean up rust either, its leaps and bounds above steel
wool and WD40.

Well, just my 2 cents,

Paul

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:05:07 GMT

I recently acquired a fair # of blank TAIG colletts from work.  We use the
TAIG's for some special labratory tooling, and the machinist makes special
collets for that purpuse.  He tried to use the blank collets which appeat
to be leaded steel, but kept breaking slitting saws when he tried to split
them.  The metal was really gummy and grabbed the blades.

My question, now that I have ~20 blank collets, after boaring them, how do
I split them?  I figure a jeweler's saw will do the trick, but wonder if
anyone has any first hand experience with these collets.

Anyother advice on the TAIG would also be appreciated.  I've been
contemplating getting one for awhile, but now that I got a bunch of
collets, and a 3 jaw chuck, I figure why not?

Thanks,

Paul

[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked] (Gary Lowell)
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:13:00 GMT

>I bought a tube of Knorrostol to clean up some rusted V blocks awhile back
...

Does the tube list ingrediates ?   The local SPI distributer here has it
on sale in their flyer.  I was thinking about giving it a try.

Thanks,
Gary Lowell
[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 7 Dec 1996 01:01:45 GMT

I don't recall a list of ingredients, but I its at work so I can't check
til Monday.  If its on sale, go get a tube, you won't be sorry.  It worked
way better than I thought it would.  I think I payed $10 for the tube,
ought to last awhile unless you got lots of rust.  Don't put too much on,
start with a little dab.

I don't think there's anything terrebly toxic in it, but I wouldn't
recommend eating it.  I don't work for SPI, I'm just real pleased with
this product.

Paul

---

From: [email-masked] (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 20:36:22 GMT

>anyone has any first hand experience with these collets.
I have used a jewelers saw and a hacksaw. Taig says to split them 3/8" down, 
which is almost to the end. As I said in my review of the Taig, I am not that 
satisfied with their collet system. How was the machinist slitting 
them, I assume he wasn't pinching them in a vise, so as the cut 
progressed the slit clamped down on the blade, but you never know. 
Rudy Kouhoupt's latest on collets has instructions for slitting them.

>Anyother advice on the TAIG would also be appreciated.  I've 
been>contemplating getting one for awhile, but now that I got a bunch 
of>collets, and a 3 jaw chuck, I figure why not?

Indeed! Get the basic TAIG, supply your own motor. If you can afford it, get 
the four jaw chuck, compound slide, a bunch of blank arbors. The tailstock is 
a necessity. Get a drill chuck off of a broken power drill from the flea 
market/yardsale for a buck. Make sure you have a dial indicator, etc.

---

From: [email-masked] (Steve Rayner)
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:24:56 GMT

The usual way is to use a slitting saw.

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************

---

From: [email-masked] (Gary Lowell)
Date: 8 Dec 1996 06:07:45 GMT

>recommend eating it.  I don't work for SPI, I'm just real pleased with

I was just curious if the active ingrediant was phosphoric acid, or
something different.  Turns out the local SPI distributor isn't
a stocking distributor and would have to order it.  Anybody know
of a source in the SF Bay Area ?

In the meantime I'm experimenting with the reverse electrolysis 
process that someone here recomended.

Cheers,
Gary Lowell
[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:24:07 GMT

Gary,

As I recall when I got mine, I had to have it ordered.  I know of a few
SPI dealers in the South Bay, Advanced Tool in Santa Clara, I just checked
and they don't stock it, but they should be able to get it from LA in 2
days, its $11.60 a tube, and you don't have to pay shipping if you pick it
up from them, there # is 408-727-0280.

Paul

ps, I didn't get a chance to look on the tube to check the ingredients.