Subject: most durable paint?

From: Eric Korenman <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:50:14 -0500

I am restoring an old telephone made of cast zinc.
The old factory finish (I assume baked on) is shot.
I am trying to find the most durable repainting method.

Some have suggested spray on lacquer paint, but I know it wont hold up
and will chip quickly.

Some have suggested automotive painting centers.  But is this any more
durable?

Can I reproduce the original finish?

please e-mail responses.
Much thanks
Eric S. Korenman
[email-masked]

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From: Gary L Lawson <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 09:00:07 -0400

On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, MARK CENTER wrote:

> Dupont Imron is the toughest stuff I have ever seen. $50/quart and extremely 
> poisonous.
> 
> I like Rustoleum. You can get it at Walmart $6.00/quart
> Laquer paint is hard to obtain and illegal in California.
> 
Imron is a tough polyurethane coating that is alos brittle.....enamel
based paints are much more flexible than urethanes & cheaper & less
volatile too!> >

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From: [email-masked] (eric korenman)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:39:43 -0700

Someone recommended 'Japan Oil' paints
I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
Ever heard of this?

thanks

`On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, MARK CENTER wrote:
`
`> Dupont Imron is the toughest stuff I have ever seen. $50/quart and extremely 
`> poisonous.
`> 
`> I like Rustoleum. You can get it at Walmart $6.00/quart
`> Laquer paint is hard to obtain and illegal in California.
`> 
`Imron is a tough polyurethane coating that is alos brittle.....enamel
`based paints are much more flexible than urethanes & cheaper & less
`volatile too!> >

-- 
Eric Korenman
[email-masked]

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From: George Edwards <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:36:30 -0500

> I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
My search for the "right" paint started several years ago when I first
started rebuilding used equipment for my shop.  I look in tool company
catalogs, went to the many supply houses here in Houston, TX and even
inquired to equipment manufacturers/importers.

To make a long story short...I "found" the paint I have been using for
the last 5 years at my neighborhood hardware store...2 blocks from my
house.  It happens to be a True Value Hardware store.

The paint is called Tru-Test X-O Rust, Interior/Exterior Enamel.

The color I use most is XO-15 Machinery Gray (IBM No. 372 581).

If you want to mix another color with the same quality paint, you start
with XO-P Pastel Base (IBM No. 364 544) and go from there.

These paints also come in spray cans as well if you pick a standard
color.  This is why I use Machinery Gray most of the time...I can keep a
paint and a spray can around the shop.

It holds up well in a shop environment and grease and oil don't seem to
effect it.

George

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From: Jeffrey Prothero <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 20:03:41 -0700

On 22 Sep 1996, Christopher Lau wrote:

>
> The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..  Better than
> any enamel I've found, but takes more than a week at fairly well controlled
> temperatures and humidity to dry and cure.  Unfortunately they're hard to
> find in most areas, but their features include: self priming on most surfaces,
> resistant to oils and grease and most other chemicals, as well as being tough
> as nails (these paints are normally used for painting guns and gun parts that
> are unbluable by normal means, so they'd better well be tough and chemical
> resistant).  I've only managed to find three sources- Brownell's Alumahyde II
> Canadian Tire Roll Bar paint, and some varieties of boat paints.  The first
> two are only available in black, the boat paint in white (but you should be
> able to add pigment to it).
>
Many years ago, we used a epoxy paint made be Sherwin Williams that came
in a spray can to paint staples that were used in a air staple gun.  It
was about the only paint that wouldn't come off the staples.

					CHeers,

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From: [email-masked] (Phil Crome)
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:32:18 GMT

[email-masked] (Christopher Lau) wrote:

>George Edwards ([email-masked]) wrote:
The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..
Better than
>able to add pigment to it).

Try Rust-Oleum's water based epoxies, available from Grainger or most
any industrial supply. Good stuff to work with, and not nearly as
toxic as most fume-wise. I've used quite a bit of it in meat packing
house work.

Phil Crome

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From: [email-masked] (Christopher Lau)
Date: 22 Sep 1996 21:20:55 GMT

George Edwards ([email-masked]) wrote:
: eric korenman wrote:
: > 
: > Someone recommended 'Japan Oil' paints
: > I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
: > Ever heard of this?
: > 
: > thanks
: > 
: My search for the "right" paint started several years ago when I first
: started rebuilding used equipment for my shop.  I look in tool company
: catalogs, went to the many supply houses here in Houston, TX and even
: inquired to equipment manufacturers/importers.

: To make a long story short...I "found" the paint I have been using for
: the last 5 years at my neighborhood hardware store...2 blocks from my
: house.  It happens to be a True Value Hardware store.

: The paint is called Tru-Test X-O Rust, Interior/Exterior Enamel.

: The color I use most is XO-15 Machinery Gray (IBM No. 372 581).

: If you want to mix another color with the same quality paint, you start
: with XO-P Pastel Base (IBM No. 364 544) and go from there.

: These paints also come in spray cans as well if you pick a standard
: color.  This is why I use Machinery Gray most of the time...I can keep a
: paint and a spray can around the shop.

: It holds up well in a shop environment and grease and oil don't seem to
: effect it.

: George

c4
--
Christopher Lau       | Nortel Wireless Networks / Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Mr. Unix              | This article contains my own opinions, not BNR's.
--                    | Bring back Trudeau!
[email-masked]       | (613)-763-8392

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From: [email-masked] (Dion Hollenbeck)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 15:25:06 GMT

I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.

dion
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: [email-masked]
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California

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From: [email-masked] (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:15:00 GMT

>fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.

What about Latex Epoxy Floor Paint?

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From: Randy Knott <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:54:20 -0700

> fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.

I've begun using epoxy primers instead of acid etch primers.  From my
local auto finish store I got DP-90 and DP-402(primer epoxy and 
activator catalyst).  The epoxy primers are not porous as the acid etch
primers I'm aware of, and are hard as hard can be.  The primer and 
activator are mixed 50/50 and there are 2 different activators that you
can choose from, one is fast cure and one is slow cure.  The fast cure
will have a pot life of a few hours(don't leave it in your spray gun)
or the slow cure which will be sprayable for a couple of days.
Clint
50/50

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From: [email-masked] (Bruce Rowen)
Date: 23 Sep 1996 21:45:15 GMT

Wal-Mart has a good selection of spray epoxy paints. These are sometimes
called "appliance" paint since they are used for touching up the tough
paint found on washing machines and refridgerators. You can ge black, white
and even that nice pea green color.
I feel it is the best spray can paint available. It takes several days
to dry and must be sprayed in warm temps. Use very light coats and be 
warned that it runs very easily if sprayed on too thick.

-Bruce

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Rowen 				National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Scientific Programmer				Array Operations Center
[email-masked]			  P.O. Box O  Socorro, NM   87801
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From: [email-masked] (Mark Fraser)
Date: 25 Sep 1996 14:33:38 GMT

Don't breathe the spray or fumes...
Generally MEK [Methyl-Ethyl Ketone] is in the activator/catalyst, and 
Cyanide or some such chemical weapon is released during curing.

Marine paints can be had in epoxy flavors.  I once painted the deck of 
a fiberglas boat with an airbrush!

And I'm not sure who makes it, but there's a one-part paint that some
people use on crazed fiberglass cars/boats, from DuPont, I think [think
of weightlifters or bodybuilders or wrestlers or whatever] that covers
and wears well - hey, this old mind IMRON....

/mark

Randy Knott ([email-masked]) wrote:
: Dion Hollenbeck wrote:
: > 
: > I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
: > in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
: > fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.
: > 
: > dion
: > --
: > Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: [email-masked]
: > Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California

: I've begun using epoxy primers instead of acid etch primers.  From my
: local auto finish store I got DP-90 and DP-402(primer epoxy and 
: activator catalyst).  The epoxy primers are not porous as the acid etch
: primers I'm aware of, and are hard as hard can be.  The primer and 
: activator are mixed 50/50 and there are 2 different activators that you
: can choose from, one is fast cure and one is slow cure.  The fast cure
: will have a pot life of a few hours(don't leave it in your spray gun)
: or the slow cure which will be sprayable for a couple of days.
: Clint
: 50/50

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From: "Tony P." <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:47:08 -0700

My question is: do you really mean the MOST DURABLE PAINT you can get?
It's not epoxy.  The paints suggested are all durable and good corrosion-resisters.

   The most durable paint you'll ever find in moisture-cured urethane.  It's a one-part 
paint that comes in gloss black, silver and clear.  Clear isn't for use on 
sunlight-exposed surfaces (turns dull due to UV, but doesn't hurt it a bit.

   This stuff can literally be brushed or sprayed on an anvil (not much difference in 
appearance, especially with a foam brush).  After frying, you can dent the metal without 
injuring the paint.  If you get it on you, you will wear it until your skin wears off.  
It can be immersed in salt water essentially indefinitely without deterioration or 
corrosion.

   Its sole drawback is _you will never remove it!  I don't een think the best strippers 
will work.  The longer it's on, the harder it gets, and humidity actually _hardens_ it. 

	We use this stuff on restored automobile frames, just so that we never, ever 
have to strip and repaint them again (not on "show" cars -- too valuable to use anything 
nonoriginal, but any others).

	Trust me.  You will never injure this stuff, nor ever have to paint again.  It's 
not cheap; about $25 or more/qt.  Get the thinner that it uses if you want to spray.  
Don't breathe it, though it's only one-part and not nearly as bad as, say, two-part 
polyurethane or epoxy.  You can get it from any auto-restoration outfit, like Eastwood 
(in the FAQ)(yes, Eastwood _is_ expensive on everything, so I never use them) or direct 
>from  POR-15 (a manufacturer, has an 800-number) or from others under the name "Miracle 
Paint," including J.C. Whitney (item 12DH1079R/black; 12DH1080X/silver12DH1081N/clear.  

It's $27.99/qt. in catalogue 594J (good through 12/31/96), but the catalogue has a "10% 
off" sticker (discount #B-09-1) bringing it down to about what it should really cost 
(Whitney always has this gimmick: 10% off after you order a time or two, 10 % anyway if 
you ask or read the catalogue back page) basically alway a 10% discount available unless 
on sale).

	You have to try this stuff once, if only to see a paint that is a real marvel.
(BTW I don't work for any of these folks -- or anyone else for that matter -- but after 
ten years I still giggle over this stuff when I use it, BUT I DON'T GET MY HANDS IN IT 
SO I WON'T WEAR IT FOR A MONTH!)

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From: Mike Rehmus <[email-masked]>
Date: 27 Sep 1996 05:01:44 GMT

The other problem with this paint is that nothing sticks very well to it.

Sooooo, if you paint rust-prone areas of your car with this stuff and then try
to top it with, say, etching primer, the primer wrinkles.  Sanding it is almost
impossible.

They may say UV sensitive but I still have spots of it on my driveway after 5+ years.

It would make a great model finish if you like clear, black or silver.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus

BTW, I've had some luck with 3M's Paint buster in getting this stuff off my hands.