Subject: Re: Question from a newbie:which lathe?

From: [email-masked]
Date: 1 Dec 1996 05:12:50 GMT

The answer to your questioin is yes.  The second question is how much do
ya wanna spend?  I have around 10 grand wrapped up in my "Used" Lathe. 
most of it in the tooling.  If you buy new stuff you need deep pockets, 
same goes for used tooling.  The hard thing is to find "good" tooling.

The answer to your second question is no, but do it anyway.  by the time
you finish it you will be much better.  Then you can start over and do it
again and better.

---

From: [email-masked] (Jonathan M. Elson)
Date: 1 Dec 1996 06:51:35 GMT

Jim Bingham ([email-masked]) wrote:
: Got a silly question I assume:
: Never really doing shop stuff... except in Jr. High.   I have aquired an
: old Atlas lathe (10").....I have taken it apart and replaced broken and
: missing parts, lubed it appropriately.  It has been leveled an apears to
: work fine....  I had my father in law look at it (he does machine shop
: stuff as a hobby) and he thinks it is in good shape.  All I have is a
: left and cut off tool, left hand tool holder, a four jaw chuck, and a
: few tools.

: The question I have is: 
:  
: Is it better to complete this lathe and by the additional tooling and
: chucks or to by a new lathe... sureline or import?

If the bed is in good condition, then the Atlas is a pretty decent
lathe.  I recommend replacing the atrocious lantern toolpost with a
clone of the Aloris dovetail toolpost.  You will need a 3-jaw chuck.
The big difference between this and the Sherline is the size - and I
would never be satisfied with a lathe that small.  I once had a large
jeweler's lathe, and it JUST was TOO SMALL for so many things I tried to
do.  That lathe was very similar in size to a Sherline.

Really, after a toolpost and its holders, and the 3-jaw chuck, the cutting 
tools don't amount to much.  Steel tool bits are very cheap, brazed
carbide is also quite inexpensive, and indexable carbide cutters may
entail a little higher investment for the insert holders, but the cost
to use them is lower than brazed carbides, as you get 3 or 4 cutting
edges for a dollar or so.  I use a combination, using indexables first
for most turning and facing, and brazed for some special shapes like
sharp corners and threading, and HSS bits for shapes I need to make
by hand.

: Second question if you don't mind.....  in the nov/dec issue of home
: shop machinist there is part one or "a Stirling-powered tractor".... is
: this an acceptable first project... or am i over my head?.... i'll
: probably do it anyway...

Sounds like a fairly intricate project, but you might just take it slow,
and maybe do some similar (but less critical) turning project just to get 
the feel of the material and cutters on each type operation.  I wouldn't
try to bore an engine cylinder as the first internal boring operation you've
ever done.  So, find something that does not require such perfect surface
finish, and bore that first, to get some feel of how it goes.  Expect
to waste a few pieces of stock, and a few hours, before you develop the feel
and technique to do the more demanding parts.  Expect to turn several pounds
of stock into chips to get a fraction of a pound part.  I so often try to
save 10 cents of material, and end up not having enough material left
after turning it down until the saw marks are gone.

A bench grinder is a real asset, when sharpening HSS tools, or grinding
one to a special shape.  A bandsaw to cut off a piece of stock is a real
timesaver, too.  SURE beats a hacksaw!

But, there's NOTHING WRONG with an Atlas 10".  I've used one for over 12
years, now.
							Jon

---

From: [email-masked] (Peter Brooks)
Date: 3 Dec 1996 23:06:09 GMT

Not sure who asked this, but here goes:

: > 
: > Second question if you don't mind.....  in the nov/dec issue of home
: > shop machinist there is part one or "a Stirling-powered tractor".... is
: > this an acceptable first project... or am i over my head?.... i'll
: > probably do it anyway...
: > 
: > thanks

Rudy Kouhoupt seems to be a good writer and his projects seem to make 
sense.  I haven't built any, but have read his _Shop Wisdom of Rudy Kouhoupt_
and have the second book on order.  Stirling engines are kind of fun,
with the only warning about the tractor is that you'll be spending a lot
of time doing the frame and wheels before he gets to the engine portion.
OTOH, I'm thinking of giving it a try, myself.

BTW, many/most of Rudy's projects are well suited to the Sherline size
of tools.  Looking at the first article, this should be true for the 
tractor, though you'll have to do some creative setups for the frames.

Pete Brooks