Subject: Re: Epoxy recomendations

From: [email-masked] (MARTY REYNARD)
Date: Wed, 01 May 96 20:16:00 -0700

MK> I always wanted to use whatever it is that's used to glue all that
 MK> strange stuff to the soda bottle that you see at the counter of the
 MK> hardware store.  I think they always have a bolt, a rubber bathtub
 MK> stopper, and a golf ball glued to an Orange Crush bottle.  I've never
 MK> used any glue that worked half that well, but seeing that bottle
 MK> inevitably renews my Adhesive Religious Convictions and gives me the
 MK> courage to buy another tube of whatever's new. 

        As a jewelry/metal artist with a like fetish for adhesives,
        Mark, I wonder if you have used JB Weld, which is likely a
        strong epoxy with fine steel powder embedded for strength.  I
        have had some good applications for this product (stocked at
        many hobby shops and automotive parts stores).  I liked the
        Orange Crush glue job, but it was awfully thick--an eyesore for
        my kind of work.

        Are there any other adhesives you have had success with for
        metal to metal joining?

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

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From: Mike Rehmus <[email-masked]>
Date: 3 May 1996 16:34:22 GMT

Whatever adhesive, epoxy or other sticky stuff you work
with, the overriding goal should be:

CLEAN
      CLEAN
           CLEAN

the two surfaces before gloping them with the
magic.  Then, with both surfaces at the recommended
temperature let them cure at the temperature
and time specified by the manufacturer.

Makes a big big difference.

Also, there is a book, "Adhesives & Glues" by 
Robert S. Miller and published by 
S&S Publishing, Box 192, New Ringgold, PA  17960

This was released in 1980 so it does not have the new
miracle epoxies, etc. but it does give you an the idea
that using hard epoxy to mend a shoe sole is a bad
application.   The chapter, Why Didn't It Stick? is
well worth reading.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus