Subject: Re: cold welding

From: [email-masked] (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Date: 5 Dec 1996 16:28:18 GMT

In Article <[email-masked]>, through puissant locution, jack yates <[email-masked]> soliloquized:
>...Uh-HUH!  I've heard of and [not] seen this too..a man over in Alabama 
>welds cracked automotive cylinder heads; no welder, no kiln, no heat.  I 
>took one to him once and picked it up the next day; it wasn't even warm. 
> I asked him how it was done (of course) and he politely told me that he 
>wasn't going to tell me; it had cost him $2000 and a year's 
>apprenticeship to learn it from someone else and if I wanted to know it 
>would cost me as well!  He did use the words "chemical-pin" but that may 
>have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 
[zap]

"Overnight Federal Express" is how you spell that process.

I think you can order the special "cold fusion" kit from the same outfit...

;-)

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: [email-masked]
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.

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From: [email-masked] (Edward Godwin)
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:06:36 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, jack yates <[email-masked]> writes:
|> [email-masked] wrote:
|> > 
|> > i know of a man who welds cast iron without heat. he does a lot of
|> > automotive work and guaruntees everything. he will let you watch him
|> > prepare the work peice grind the vee and everything but goes behind
|> > locked doors when he welds it. all he will say is theres no heat
|> > involved because it will cause the cast to break. ive welded with
|> > every thing and alaways have to heat the cast way up and let cool
|> > slowly.what is he doing?
|> 
|> ...Uh-HUH!  I've heard of and [not] seen this too..a man over in Alabama 
|> welds cracked automotive cylinder heads; no welder, no kiln, no heat.  I 
|> took one to him once and picked it up the next day; it wasn't even warm. 
|>  I asked him how it was done (of course) and he politely told me that he 
|> wasn't going to tell me; it had cost him $2000 and a year's 
|> apprenticeship to learn it from someone else and if I wanted to know it 
|> would cost me as well!  He did use the words "chemical-pin" but that may 
|> have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 
|> you cannot see the repair when it's done, and these modern-day alchemists 
|> are *not* going to let you find out from them and set up shop in their 
|> neighborhood....Sounds like the old Guilds of Medieval Europe...
|> 
|> 			Jack

Would someone please post the address and phone number for one (or both) of
these individuals?  I have some castings that are in need of repair.  Thanks.

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
Edward Godwin                         |  "Stupidity is always a capital crime."
[email-masked]            |         - Larry Niven _N-Space_
________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:  My opinions are not presented as remotely related, or similar to,
the opinions of my employer.  They can make up their own minds.......

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From: [email-masked] (Paul Amaranth)
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:19:00 -0500

I saw a short description of cold welding in the new Strictly IC.  Pretty
simple, actually, at least in concept.

Also, some time ago, there was an illustration of repairing a Jaguar
E-Type block (these are irreplaceable and worth close to their weight
in gold) using this technique in a Jaguar restoration magazine.
The crack went right through the serial number.  When they were finished
you couldn't even tell there had been a crack there.

I think the recommendation was to check with either diesel or marine
repair shops for expertise.

-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
[email-masked]          Consulting & Data Conversion Services

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From: Lionel Titchener <[email-masked]>
Date: 6 Dec 1996 21:58:24 GMT

>>have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 

I have seen this cold welding done a long time ago when I was at school, I 
used to go a visit my grandfather after school and he used to do this on 
cracked cylinder heads and between the bores on the engine blocks.

Holes were drilled either side of the crack and then a groove filed going 
across the crack to the hole opposite. When the right depth was filed out 
a strap was hammered into the holes and groove, think of a cartoon of a 
strongman holding a set of barbels, a bar with a ball on each end.

If this is done correctly after it is skimmed over you have to look real 
hard to see where the crach was, the hammering in of the strap would pull 
up the crack and seal it, there may have been some sealer or chemical used 
as well, but this was about 25 years ago and I cannot remember exactly how 
it was done.,

It is still done today, I have been told.

Lionel

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From: Randy Knott <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:32:08 -0800

> repair shops for expertise.

I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need to
hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
Clint

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From: [email-masked] (Edward Godwin)
Date: 13 Dec 1996 15:26:19 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, Randy Knott <[email-masked]> writes:
|> Paul Amaranth wrote:
|> > 
|> > I saw a short description of cold welding in the new Strictly IC.  Pretty
|> > simple, actually, at least in concept.
|> > 
|> > Also, some time ago, there was an illustration of repairing a Jaguar
|> > E-Type block (these are irreplaceable and worth close to their weight
|> > in gold) using this technique in a Jaguar restoration magazine.
|> > The crack went right through the serial number.  When they were finished
|> > you couldn't even tell there had been a crack there.
|> > 
|> > I think the recommendation was to check with either diesel or marine
|> > repair shops for expertise.
|> > 
|> > --
|> > Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
|> > Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
|> > [email-masked]          Consulting & Data Conversion Services
|> 
|> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
|> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need to
|> hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
|> Clint

I would settle with finding one of these guys.  I have some cast iron parts
that need repair.  If they guarantee their work, why not give it a try?

I hope that the original poster(s) to this thread, or someone who has had
recent contact with one of these individuals will post some contact information.

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From: John L Ferrell <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:44:39 -0800

Randy Knott wrote:

> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  

In the 1950's There was a company in Columbus Ohio named "Columbus Col-Weld" that 
specialized in repairing cracked auto engines & blocks. Freeze ups due to poor quality 
or no antifreeze was common in that era. As I recall the process involved drilling the 
crack, put in plugs, then drill between the plus(overlapping the first plugs) and plug 
those holes. Probably a secret or two in the process to make it work. I don't know if 
they are still in business.

The same people that did this would come out to your garage and turn a rod journal with 
the crank still in the engine. They used the starter motor & the 110 line power to run 
their equipment. It was not nearly as expensive as you would think, but I don't remember 
the exact cost. 

This was also the point in time that brakes were good for 20,000 miles & clutches lasted 
40,000 if you were careful.  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
old shoe into a rod or main bearing so he could use the car (gently of course) until he 
could gather parts to fix it next weekend. You could also get the leather at the 
hardware store, but the old shoe was cheaper.

John Ferrell in Julian NC

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From: John L Ferrell <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:47:23 -0800

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From: John L Ferrell <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:49:35 -0800

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:32 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]

>recent contact with one of these individuals will post some contact

The orignal post regarded an exhaust manifold, I am not so sure how JB
would stand the heat. Go slowly slowly.

Peter

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From: [email-masked](Roger Loving)
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:58:11 GMT

In <[email-masked]> John L Ferrell
<[email-masked]> writes: 
  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
>John Ferrell in Julian NC

    Ah! that takes me back a ways! I used leather rod bearings in my
old motorbike (Whizzer) in High School till I learned to pour some
babbit. Got to where I could slap in a new set in short order....The
leather makes a real mess in the oil pan when you go to put in the next
set. Sort of a leather mush. I kept "rod bearing material " on a roll
in the garage. The best was an oil-tanned strip from the saddle shop.
Good for maybe 10 or 20 miles! My dad taught me the trick, so it's been
around a while.
                            Roger L.

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From: [email-masked] (JD)
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 19:21:29 GMT

>would stand the heat. Go slowly slowly.

I guy I used to know bought a car from a dealer once. After a few months,
it died. After dis-assembly, it appeared the heads were Cold Welded with
JB weld. No, it doesn't stand up. Of course, on the package there is the 
guy who repaired a $50,000 cat engine block with it, so what do I know.

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From: [email-masked] (Reckless)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:16:32 GMT

[email-masked] wrote:

>i know of a man who welds cast iron without heat. he does a lot of
>automotive work and guaruntees everything. he will let you watch him
>prepare the work peice grind the vee and everything but goes behind
>locked doors when he welds it. all he will say is theres no heat
>involved because it will cause the cast to break. ive welded with
>every thing and alaways have to heat the cast way up and let cool
>slowly.what is he doing?   

OK guys, I think this may help.  I was flipping through a welding
supply catalog and found:  "UTP 8 'Softflow'" welding rod AC or DC
straight polarity, 70,000 psi tensile strength, 175 brinell hardness.
"All position, commercial pure Nickel.  The finest Electrode for "cold
welding" Cast Iron.  Soft filable transition area."

-Reckless

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From: "David Langlois" <[email-masked]>
Date: 15 Dec 1996 23:35:23 GMT

In 1958 or 1959 we were vacationing in Eastern Canada (mom, dad, sister,
brother, and me). We had a 1951 Rover 4 door sedan with a 2.8 litre
straight six engine. On our way back to Montreal we came through New
Brunswick and one of the rod bearings went just as we has passed St. John.
We pulled into a garage and dad asked if he could use a hoist. The mechanic
said "sure" and 30 minutes later the pan was off and dad has the offending
bearing exposed. I can still remember the look on the mechanic's face when
dad asked him for some belting leather. It was obvious that he thought this
limey must have been out too long under that hot summer sun. Anyway, dad
fixed the bearing, the five of us piled in, and we slowly made it home.

When we got home dad made a mould and poured babbit around the old bearing
shells. He then scraped and blued, and scraped and blued, and scraped and
blued again until that bearing was a better fit than anything from a
machine shop. I don't think I have the skill to duplicate his machining
ability, but I can definitely tell you how it's done (Prahperrly, as dad
would say!).

David Langlois in Ottawa, Canada