Subject: Squeeling

From: Tony Midea <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 06:09:09 -0800

Hi all,
I saw a post here about  parting tools and skreeching (excessive noise 
when cutting). I have experienced this in only one situation, That is 
when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tubeof length 
that requires a steady rest. I am pretty sure that I am lined up on 
center but is this noise something that I should be concerned with?
Will  it damage my machine?, cutting tools? The groove gets cut but it 
sure hurts  me in more ways than one while doing it. Would excessive 
runout cause this I am at about 600 rpm 6061 t-6 aluminum extruded 
tubing. 
This leads me to my next question-

Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
application?

Any help would be great.
Thanks

Tony
 [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:14 GMT

>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 

Depends where you are cutting the groove. In the middle between the chuck
and tyhe steady, yes, near the chuck or steady no. Begs the next question
though, why use a steady and not the tailstock with a bullnose center?
Generally the saddle is used on the tailstock side of the steady.

Peter

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:02:06 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, ANDY POPKY
<[email-masked]> writes:

>do they make a bull nose center with a hole in it???
>if there is no hole how do you cut an INTERNAL grove??
>there would be some sort of an interference problem
>between the bull nose and the groving tool
>
>

Yup, I'ts called a slotted bull-nose. There is a grooved opening in the
spindle shank and a hole through the center. You use an offset boring bar
with an indexable insert that is mounted vertically similar to some of the
thread cutting inserts. They are made by Thin Bit and are *not* cheap.

For large diameter internal grooves they are *must* especially if it is a
deep groove. The side loading on the steady rest cannot cope well with
deep internal grooves as they are deigned to absorb high vertical loads
away from the lathe bed and not loads acting across the bed.

These cutters are not for the faint of heart either as you are operating
blind. It needs a great faith in the accuracy of the dials for getting the
correct position, width and depth of groove. Ideally you plug the tube at
the chuck end and slop a good amount of heavy cutting oil inside. The
slotted bull-nose center keeps the fluid level a bit below half way so the
cut is well lubricated.

Because it is a narrow cutter it needs high speeds especially for high
carbon tool steels and stuff like DOM steels used for making hydraulic
cylinders with deep, narrow internal groove retaining rings.

Gee Andy, and I thought you knew *everything*.

Peter
PS I made all that up , cos I missed the magic word "internal" in the
original post. <bg>

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From: [email-masked] (Fitch R. Williams)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:13:18 GMT

>Peter

Well, I could be wrong, it surely wouldn't be the first time
even today, but I thought he was cutting the snapring groove
*inside* the tube.  If that is the case, the bullnose might
create complications? <G>

Fitch
Who apparently can't write clearly, and maybe doesn't read
clearly ... I need a loupe front for my whole monitor  ...

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:19 GMT

>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 

  You might try tightening the fingers of the steady rest on the tube a
little. You can also try slowing the speed down if you can. If that
doesn't work you might try a different shape tool and or raising and
lowering the cutting edge in relation to center line. A really thin
cutting tool and several passes might also solve this. If none of the
above help you will probably have to live with it. Its most likely caused
by the flexibility of the tube. The only way I know that will solve it is
to have a lathe big enough that you can stick it through the head stock
and chuck it next to the cut.

 Hope this helps

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:15 GMT

>Generally the saddle is used on the tailstock side of the steady.

  Peter try reading it again. He said "internal snap ring groove".

   Wayne Cook

However,

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:40 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Fitch R.

>create complications? <G>

Hey guys, let up a bit here. I got wrong, OK?

Check my response to Andy yesterday. <g>

Peter

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From: ANDY POPKY <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:00:26 -0500

peter

so it looks like a steady or follow rest is in order here

a little bacon grease might stop that pig from sqealing<w>

regards
andy  popky

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From: [email-masked] (Fitch R. Williams)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:39 GMT

[email-masked] wrote:

<snipped disinformation>

>PS I made all that up , cos I missed the magic word "internal" in the

Just for a microsecond, well, maybe a millisecond, you had
me going.  <BG>  That was great.  By the time I got to the
tube half full of oil and the paradox of the stationary slot
I was almost sorry it wasn't real!

Fitch
Who could probably be persuaded there was a good spagetti
crop this year and prices will be lower so stock up ...

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 00:36:54 GMT

Tony

You Might try the following

Hold 1 end in the chuck

Use an insert with center hole (Pre Made to suit) or use a pipe center
to aid setting up the fixed steady. - set the steady to run over the
groove you wish to cut. Now back off the tailstock, remove the insert
(if used ) and set a grooving tool to run exactly under one of the
fixed steady pins. if your tool is held in a round boring bar with a
slotted clamp it will be easier to set to "center"  height. (Relative
to the center of the work)  either up or down from the usual position,
or upside down if you decide to use the pin at the back. Use suitable
lubricant for the steady - in abundence.

Good Luck.

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From: Abrasha <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:31:10 -0800

Tony Midea wrote:
> 
> when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tube of 

snip

> Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this

How does one use a follow rest when cutting an internal groove?  I thought that this was 
not possible.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

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From: Tony Midea <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:33:38 -0800

> Check my response to Andy yesterday. <g>

Pete,
Hey thanks I kinda fiqured that one out. but I thought about it and 
bought a bullnose anyway. I'll use it to turn down the outside of my 
tubes. That's why I love this hobby (pasttime) so. 
always a new accessory around the corner!
:-)
\
Tony

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:05 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, Tony Midea <[email-masked]>
writes:

>:

You can *never* have too much stuff. :)>

Peter

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From: Steve Austin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 00:07:57 -0500

>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this
Tony
I've been known to take off my belt and wrap it around pesky
animals like your howling tube.  A good stiff piece of rubber
jammed inside also might help.  
Steve A.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:40 GMT

>jammed inside also might help.  

Pheeww! At first reading I thought this was oneof those Hampster and
masking tape jokes. ;)>

Peter
Still shocked, but recovering.