From davecl@SUPERIOR.NET Sat Feb 15 11:29:42 EST 1997
Article: 182778 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Lindsley <davecl@SUPERIOR.NET>
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Lines: 24
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182778

HGTV only shows reruns....not the current episodes

--------------------------------------------------------
Feb 08, 97 12:00:08 AM
Dave Lindsley
http://www.superior.net/~davecl.html
davecl@superior.net
--------------------------------------------------------
Department of Redundancy Department

----------
> From: Scott Schreiber <scottws@STRATOS.NET>
> To: WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
> Date: Thursday, February 06, 1997 3:56 PM
>
> On Thu, 06 Feb 97 11:28:22 GMT, davem@cftnet.com (Dave) wrote:
>
> >Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> >
>
> I haven't seen the HGTV show...has he gone back to using his Shopsmith
> Mark V?


From nsummers@istar.ca Sat Feb 15 11:29:43 EST 1997
Article: 182779 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsummers@istar.ca (Neil Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: In praise of Dejanews
Date: 8 Feb 1997 03:06:05 GMT
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Hi

I've read the threads here on splitting the newsgroups and a few of
you suggested that if you have a question, consult Dejanews first
before posting here. I just wanted to add my testemonial regarding
this incredible Web resource. A while ago I was in the market for a
new 3+ HP router. I searched Dejanews with astonishing results. I was
able to retrieve dozens of past posts on the subject and some valuable
bandwidth was conserved in the process. Same thing with router bits. 
Now I use this service all the time before I post here. You should
too.

This truely is a wonderful service and I encourage everyone to take
advantage of it. Point your browser to:

http://www.dejanews.com

Don't forget to create a query filter to hasten the search process.
Some good things on the net truely ARE free :-)


**************************************
nsummers@istar.ca
Neil Summers
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
***************************************


From davecl@SUPERIOR.NET Sat Feb 15 11:29:44 EST 1997
Article: 182780 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Lindsley <davecl@SUPERIOR.NET>
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Lines: 32
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182780

Based on many posts here flying back and forth and no one really having any
solid evidence to back it up I went to the horses mouth again and asked:

If the New Yankee workshop shows that they will Air beginning in February
are new or old re-runs and here is the official response I received.

"The New Yankee Workshop is owned by PBS - we do not have permission to
tape new shows, only air the older programs.  Thanks."

quoted fron Richard J. Asarisi
--------------------------------------------------------
Feb 08, 97 12:00:08 AM
Dave Lindsley
http://www.superior.net/~davecl.html
davecl@superior.net
--------------------------------------------------------
Department of Redundancy Department

----------
> From: Scott Schreiber <scottws@STRATOS.NET>
> To: WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
> Date: Thursday, February 06, 1997 3:56 PM
>
> On Thu, 06 Feb 97 11:28:22 GMT, davem@cftnet.com (Dave) wrote:
>
> >Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> >
>
> I haven't seen the HGTV show...has he gone back to using his Shopsmith
> Mark V?


From butzi@wserv.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:45 EST 1997
Article: 182781 of rec.woodworking
From: "F and ML Butzi" <butzi@wserv.com>
Subject: Re: dust coll. bags -washing frequency?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <5dc175$rjb@camel4.mindspring.com>
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	I wash my dust collecting bag (the one that sits on top of the collector)
after I finish each project.  Amazing what the wash water looks like after
about 7-8 minutes of wash time.  I dry it in our drier, and it comes out
looking like new.  After each washing I notice a big improvement in the
volume of air the collector moves because the pores in the bag are now
open.

			Fred

Trevor Galvin <dilbert1@pipeline.com> wrote in article
<5dc175$rjb@camel4.mindspring.com>...
> I find that after throwing my bags in the washing machine they work
> much better than just emptying them. I wash them about every other
> time they fill up. Anyone else have any comments on cleaning bags or
> if you switch to the finer mesh bags do you notice a performance drop?
> dilbert1@pipeline.com
> 
> 


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:46 EST 1997
Article: 182782 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:33:12 GMT
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On Thu, 06 Feb 1997 13:21:18 -0800, Jim Roncace
<Jim.Roncace@quest-net.com> wrote:

>I will soon be buying my first table saw.  I plan to buy a unit along the 
>lines of a Jet or Delta Contractor Saw.  My local woodworking supply 
>places have a decent selection, but I'm not convinced their prices are 
>reasonable.  Can anyone suggest some mail order suppliers that regularly 
>have good prices on table saws?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim


I purchased my TS Mail Order from Franklin Ace Hardware....

They carry Jet... Freee Shipping...

alan

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From rouleau@eznet.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:46 EST 1997
Article: 182783 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rouleau@eznet.net (Jon A Rouleau)
Subject: Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars; Am I fantasizing,              or did I see these Somewh
Message-ID: <32fbeec5.36395721@news.eznet.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 03:12:09 GMT
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On Fri, 7 Feb 1997 04:00:29 -0500, "Bradley A. Stolzer"
<WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM> wrote:

> Subject line says it all;  I think I remember seeing a dial indicator that
>had a bar that runs in your miter gauge slot, rather than a magnetic base
>like most of them have.  Wouldn't this be the best instrument for ensuring
>that your tablesaw blade is perfectly parallel to the miter gauge slot?  But,
>I can't find it now in any of my catalogues.
>
>Has anybody seen this?
>
It is called a dial miter, made by Gobi Labs  Phone#1-800-484-9677
Cost is $247.93



From *stev@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:47 EST 1997
Article: 182784 of rec.woodworking
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From: *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: 8 Feb 1997 09:22:03 GMT
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In article <32FB5AE8.7A66@amityedu.com>, info@amityedu.com says...
>
>FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN
>
>1. DOGS DON'T CRY
>2. DOGS LOVE IT WHEN YOUR FRIENDS COME OVER
>3. DOGS DON'T CARE IF YOU USE THIER SHAMPOO
[snip]
>38 DOGS FIND YOU AMUSING WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK
>39 DOGS CAN'T TALK
>40 DOGS SELDOM OUTLIVE YOU

Well that didnt have much to do with woodworking, but thats pretty 
good. Thanx for the laugh.

stev



-- 
If replying by mail, remove the 
asterisk* from my email address. 



From Paul Ephron Sat Feb 15 11:29:48 EST 1997
Article: 182785 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Ephron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Drilling plywood
Date: 8 Feb 1997 02:29:04 -0700
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Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
hand drill. Thanks for any advice.


From booter@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:49 EST 1997
Article: 182786 of rec.woodworking
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From: booter@ix.netcom.com(Brian)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 12inch planer any recomendations !
Date: 8 Feb 1997 09:38:21 GMT
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I want to get a planer ,but I din't know which one to buy

Brian


From clairs@iafrica.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:50 EST 1997
Article: 182787 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Trees
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:53:56 -0800
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Testing


From kens@csra.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:51 EST 1997
Article: 182788 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FC0BAE.2171@csra.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 21:14:22 -0800
From: The Stephens Family <kens@csra.net>
Organization: Internet CSRA
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Subject: Shopsmith Belt
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The drive belt on my Shopsmith just broke after many years. 

This is the belt that is about an inch wide and is ribbed cross-wise with 
blocks that mesh with the grooves in the shafts.  

Is the company still alive, and where can I get the belts?


From kens@csra.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:52 EST 1997
Article: 182789 of rec.woodworking
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Philip Procter wrote:
> 
> I've got several small (12'x12") sheets of wood finished in a high
> gloss oil based urethane. The finish needs a final polish to eliminate
> the little scratches, dust flecks etc.
> In my experience, you can wax urethane, but you can't polish it further 
unless you use an extremely fine-grained polish.  Most polishing attempts 
actually remove the gloss from the urethane and make it a more "satin" 
finish.

    Ken


> Can I polish urethane with polishing or buffing compound or do I need
> some other technique?
> God first,
> then your neighbors and yourself,
> all else is commentary.


From bhayner@capital.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:53 EST 1997
Article: 182790 of rec.woodworking
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From: bhayner@capital.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Compressors vs. HVLP systems
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 12:52:22 GMT
Organization: 
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I'm looking for any and all advice concerning the two items in the title. I'm 
sick of using brushes and cotton diapers and all sort of other applications to 
try and get the best finish I can. I've finallyseen the light and plan on 
moving on the wold of evenly sprayed on finishes. However, I can only choose 
one or the other because I'm not a rich man. Will a HVLP do the job well enough 
to make me forget about the advantages of a compressor. Or should I get a 
compressor with a rewgulator that will allow me to back off on the psi to give 
me the same pressure as a HVLP. Also there's the money thing to consider. I 
really don't want to spend more than $300 if I can get away with it. Any and 
all adice would be greatly appreciated.  



From eclark2918@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:53 EST 1997
Article: 182791 of rec.woodworking
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From: eclark2918@aol.com (EClark2918)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shop Smith
Date: 8 Feb 1997 11:49:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I would like to know if Shop Smith has a web page on internet.  Anyone
know?


From Stewart_Bob@msn.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:54 EST 1997
Article: 182792 of rec.woodworking
From: "Robert B. Stewart" <Stewart_Bob@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Need help on joining wood.
References: <01bc1481$81c77340$1e2392cf@default> <32FB4030.4ABB@marsweb.com> <haubert.106.00232566@mbi.org>
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Whether you use the 3 8-inch boards or decide to cut them in half,
alternate the growth rings on adjacent boards.  That will minimize any
warping you may encounter.

Bob S.


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:29:55 EST 1997
Article: 182793 of rec.woodworking
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From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Q3 Scrollsaw cuts are not perpendicular.
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 97 20:18:08 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
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In article <32F749B5.4ED1@jcpenney.com>
aL Masters <dmasters@jcpenney.com> writes:
 
>
>------------42E452C97CD30
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>I have recently purchased a Delta Q3 Scrollsaw, and I am still a novice
>in it's use which may be the answer to my question. When cutting thick
>stock(2 inches) I seem to get cuts that are several degrees from
>perpendicular.
>------------42E452C97CD30
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
>
><HTML><BODY>
>
 
This is one of the characteristics of a "C" arm scroll saw. The blade does
not go straight up and down but in a small arc. Check out American Woodworker
Oct. 96 issue. This might be your problem.
 
 
STEVE RIMAR
 
             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
 
 
         all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


From torch@napalm.net Sat Feb 15 11:29:56 EST 1997
Article: 182794 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:58:55 GMT
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Randall R. Hawley wrote:
(snip) 
>***********************************************************************
>Randy Hawley  | All opinions expressed|           John 3:16
>Eli Lilly & Co| are mine, not theirs  |I'm not perfect, just Forgiven !
>***********************************************************************

As if spam weren't bad enough, now it wears a goddamn halo !


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:57 EST 1997
Article: 182795 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 220 help
Date: 8 Feb 1997 06:13:02 -0700
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Sounds like you didn't specify amperage and your electrician wired it for a 
20a 220v circuit. The plug configuration you describe is a60a on your welder. 
You can go to the panel to see what size breaker is on the wire. My guess is 
you will find a 20a 2 pole breaker in there. Looks like a pair of singles with 
a bar across the handles. You should call the electrician back and show him 
what you intend to use (the welder).

Marty

In article <32FC13CC.3270@ix.netcom.com>, ngised <ngised@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I'm a cabinet maker who recently had a house built. I asked that my
>
>shop be wired with 220v outlets for my tools. The problem is that i
>
>don't understand the plug configuration.All of the outlets look as
>
>follows:   -   - the electrician told me that this was code,but my 
>
>             0
>
>welder has a plug config as follows:    \    /
>
>                                           
>
>                                           |
>
>I belive the house i used to live in had two blacks,one white and a
>
>ground,but my current only has one white,one black and a bare
>
>ground.Please help me I know very little about electrical wiring


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:58 EST 1997
Article: 182796 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 8 Feb 1997 06:16:01 -0700
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Sure, write a programm that sends a multitude of reply mail!
Marty
In article <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>, *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev) 
wrote:
>
>All of us guys using asterisks, 'remove this to replys' etc are
>getting nowhere. Got an offer today from a guy who admitted to
>pulling my address off this group. I was vainly hoping that these
>scum sucking gutter-snipes had some program or something that would
>pull off addresses in batches. But now I see that these guys read 
>thru articles and take the time to get our addresses correct.
>Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5 unwanted offers
>a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a day.
>Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short
>of going totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.
>
>stev
>
>stev@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>
>


From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:29:58 EST 1997
Article: 182797 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: will humidor mosture lift finish on outside of box?
Date: Sat,  8 Feb 1997 01:42:28 -0500
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 7-Feb-97 Re: will humidor mosture
li.. by Kenneth Kliebard@msn.com 
>
> Must have been crappy glue or crappy joints if it fell apart.  An 
> unfinished-on-the-inside-humidor should hold just fine with Titebond 
> II or Gorilla Glue.  I'd be more concerned about the finish on the 
> inside permeating the spanish cedar or at least causing undesireable 
> aromas inside the box.  Also, remember that you do _NOT_ want an 
> airtight seal, or you could get mold.  So, a little breathing isn't 
> bad.

    Having made more than a few of these, actually I made my living
making these for about three years, I can say that that is not really
accurate.  I have seen quality humidors split, and it wasn't due to
crappy glue or joints.  When you are in a dry area, where humidity dips
into the single digits, and the interior is being artificially
maintained at ~72%, the stresses involved are tremendous.  Depending on
the wood involved, it may well split if the interior is not properly
finished.  You might be able to lock the joint shut with glue, in which
case the wood itself will split.

    The finish on the inside should be shellac.  Not poly, not varnish,
not lacquer, shellac.  If it is, and you let the final coat dry
overnight, it will never leak into the cedar.

    As for an airtight seal, go for it.  You'll never really get it, but
you should try.  The fact is, assuming you actually smoke cigars and
don't just store them, you will be opening the humidor a few times a day
anyway, which will exchange all the air inside.  There is no good reason
for the box to breathe, as evidenced by the success of lexan humidors,
Tupperdors and Igloodors.

    Look, if you can get a wood box to hermetically seal, you're enough
of a craftsman that I certainly am in no position to give you tips,
regardless of my experience!

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:29:59 EST 1997
Article: 182798 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PHONE COMPANIES TRYING TO RIP US OFF
Date: 8 Feb 1997 13:27:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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We're also paying more for....

Taxes
Food
Fuel
Medical benefits
Medicine
Insurance
Vehicles
etc.
Do you REALLY want to argue all of the above (and more) on rec.ww?

Weasel (c) 1997. There can only be one.

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
-----------------------------------------

Subject: Re: PHONE COMPANIES TRYING TO RIP US OFF
From: rsm@mc.net
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 03:56:44 GMT
Message-ID: <5dgmgq$3th@news.mc.net>

It doesn't have anything to do with woodworking, it has to do with all
of us paying higher phone bills. You do pay phone bills don't you?
or is it that your Parents pay all your bills....

hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) wrote:

>What does THIS have to do with woodworking?

>Weasel (tm) There can only be one.

>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"



From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:00 EST 1997
Article: 182799 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WTD: Info on Cambell Hausfeld HVLP
Date: 8 Feb 1997 06:27:02 -0700
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I'm interested in buying a low end HVLP sprayer for finishing cabinets and 
furniture. I'm a weekend warrior so to speak. It might get used 3 times a 
month. Affordability is an issue. It seems to be between the Campbell Hausfeld 
and the Wagner. 

Any comments about either one? Anyone own either?

Marty


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:01 EST 1997
Article: 182800 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
Date: 8 Feb 1997 06:25:02 -0700
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If the splintering is on the back side of the hole, put a piece of scrap under 
the good piece. Make sure you're using a good bit. Brad point might be better.
Marty
In article <32fc45fa.32176839@news.primenet.com>, Paul Ephron wrote:
>Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
>so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
>drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
>holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
>plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
>stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
>hand drill. Thanks for any advice.


From jkjacobs@jazzmin.vnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:03 EST 1997
Article: 182801 of rec.woodworking
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From: JIM JACOBS <jkjacobs@jazzmin.vnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 08:24:23 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc.
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CMT are the only bits I buy and they are great. Previous postings here as
well as ratings done by Woodworking magazines etc all rate CMT in the top
3 bits to purchase.  Buy them, you won't be disappointed.  Freud also has
received top ratings.

Jim

On Fri, 7 Feb 1997, Michael R. Wezensky wrote:

> I am thinking of purchasing some router bits from CMT.  Can anyone tell
> me of there experience with these bits and if they are any good?  Any
> comments would be appreciated.
> 
> Tahnks
> -- 
> See Ya
> 
> 
> Mikey Mike
> mwezensk@visi.net
> 
> 



From alysonsdad@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:04 EST 1997
Article: 182802 of rec.woodworking
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From: alysonsdad@aol.com (ALYSONSDAD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: 8 Feb 1997 13:42:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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> > I will soon be buying my first table saw.  I plan to buy a unit along
the
> > lines of a Jet or Delta Contractor Saw.  My local woodworking supply
> > places have a decent selection, but I'm not convinced their prices are
> > reasonable.  Can anyone suggest some mail order suppliers that
regularly
> > have good prices on table saws?
> >

Having a good dealer within driving distance (someone to fuss at
face-to-face if there is problem) is worth a few bucks.  I bought my Delta
34-445 from Tool Crib because the local Delta dealer was several hundred
dollars more expensive.  If he had been within 50 dollars of Tool Crib, I
would have bought locally.



From bsr@mill2.millcomm.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:05 EST 1997
Article: 182803 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bradley S. Rubin" <bsr@mill2.millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans For A Cribb OR Cradle ??
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 07:31:06 -0600
Organization: Millennium Communications, Inc.
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John wrote:
> 
> My wife is 6 months pregnant and I can't find any plans for a cribb or
> cradle anywhere. Can you please help?
> 
> Many thanks
>                      John

Look in Fine Woodworking #100 (May 1993) "Crib Hides Its Hardware"...
(I wrote it :)  -- Brad


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:06 EST 1997
Article: 182805 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Convex Cuts on (DELTA) Jointer
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:34:13 -0500
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mark lange wrote:

>   Thanks for the comments, upon further inspection and measurement,
> it appears that the infeed table is drooping down at the cutterhead.
> It is worse than the initial 0.003 that I measured when I pull the
> infeed table below level with the outfeed table.  In fact, it appears
> to be 0.013" lower at the center of the table than at the end of
> the infeed table (measured relative to the outfeed table with a 40"
> straightedge) using a feeler gauge.  Setting the infeed table end at
> 0.006" below the outfeed table plane results in a droop at the front
> of the infeed table of 0.013" (0.019" gap).  Looking at the results
> of this gap, what appears to be happening is a case of "forward snipe".
> i.e. the front of the board (about 3") is cut more deeply until the
> board passes onto the outfeed table.  The board is then cut referenced
> to the outfeed table and remains reasonably flat thereafter.
> The apparent result is that the board appeared to be higher in the
> middle than at the ends because I was not looking for a snipe-like
> condition at the front of the cut.
> 
>   So, has anyone had any luck shimming the tables on a 37-190 Delta
> jointer?  Looking at the assembly and assembly drawing, this does
> not appear to be a straight-forward task.

Actually it is. I want to first say that almost every I've spoken to
with a 37-190 has had similar problems including myself. Shimming is
surprisingly easy. You can use shim stock, feeler guage stock, or even
pieces of an aluminum soda can. If you loosen the gib screws on either
table, you will be able to slightly lift the table. Insert the shim
stock about a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the table on both sides,
release the table and re-measure. I can't remember how thick my shims
were but I remember being surprised at what it took to get the tables
parallel (something that Delta should have taken care of in the first
place). To Delta's credit, they offered to fix it for me (to within
their tolerances which were greater than what I wanted) but I had to
carry the thing in to the service center. Since it's slightly heavier
than what I can comfortable carry and since they go out of adjustment
many times during transportion of not packed properly, I decided to fix
it myself. BTW, my advice would be to shim the outfeed side since that
side is not being constantly adjusted. After shimming, you'll have to
recheck the height relative to the cutters.

-Jaz


> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> My opinions only, my employer has its own opinions
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:30:07 EST 1997
Article: 182806 of rec.woodworking
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From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table inserts
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 97 20:42:31 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
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In article <32F653D0.20E4@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
"Richard R." <REVCOMM@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> writes:
 
>I'm going to build a router table(AWW#44),
>with a DW625. I have a 1/4" alum. plate
>that I'm going to use for the insert.
>Where can I pick up the rings for different
>size cutters? All I need is the rings. Are
>they sold separately? Maybe Woodhaven? I
>haven't gotten their catalog yet.
>Thanks
>
>
 
You can make your own rings from the same 1/4" aluminum with carbide bits.
Route the amount of recess first and then cut the circle on the outside of
the recess all the way through. Go slow at lower speed. Use double faced
tape to hold the aluminum down on a scrap of wood. I made 2 rings and they
work great. One of the rings will also hold the standard templete guides.
Use eye protection, route a small amount at a time and be very careful.
 
 
STEVE RIMAR
 
             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
 
 
         all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


From spc@rideau.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:07 EST 1997
Article: 182807 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steven Cavanaugh <spc@rideau.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Notty Pine problem
Date: 8 Feb 1997 13:59:25 GMT
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I hope some one can help me with the following finishing problem.

Customer has a set of windows made of notty pine, they have painted them with latex 
white paint, of course in less then a year the notts have come right through as dark 
brown spots.

It is my understanding that if one has fresh wood, using shelac ( less then one year 
old) and coating the nots, this will not happen. 

With out trying to strip the latex paint, is there any way of stopping this problem.

Would a coat of varathane, followed by a oil based paint put an end to this problem by 
chance.

Any ideas would be welcome.


From RalphW@Spectra.Net Sat Feb 15 11:30:08 EST 1997
Article: 182808 of rec.woodworking
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From: RalphW@Spectra.Net (RalphW)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: I found this on the web,this old house drinking game
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 13:52:50 GMT
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The

This Old House

and 

New Yankee Workshop <Picture> 

Drinking Game



------------------------------------------------------------------------


This is based on two popular public television programs, 
often seen on weekend afternoons. This Old House deals 
with the renovation of older, often historical, homes and 
buildings. It stars Steve Thomas and Norm Abram. However, 
several contractors and craftsmen make regular appearances, 
including Tom Silva, Rich Trethewey and others. They have 
chiefly renovated residences in New England, but have also 
had projects in the Southwest, Hawaii, Europe and Savannah, 
Georgia.
Bob Vila, lately seen hawking Craftsman tools, was actually 
the earlier host of the show but split to the commercial 
networks and was replaced by Steve Thomas, similar to how 
Siskel and Ebert blew out of the Chicago public television 
scene and went for the big bucks in syndication. Norm Abram 
is eternal. In reruns, particularly on cable channels that 
have bought the rights to the early shows, such as The 
Learning Channel, you will see a definitely younger Norm 
patiently dealing with a poorer Bob Vila.
Norm also has a show he does solo, The New Yankee Workshop,
where he constructs unusual woodworking projects, often 
creatings replicas of antiques and period pieces he's 
found somewhere, though he's also built small buildings 
and a small sailboat. He's big on shop safety, and seems 
very relieved he doesn't have all those other guys, 
particularly the well-meaning but somewhat, 
well... well-meaning Steve to trip over.
The Rules

Take a drink if:

•Steve offers to help 
•A new contractor is introduced 
•The homeowner says anything about their budget 
•Norm taps his safety glasses and reminds us how 
important they are 
•A new technology is displayed 
•Anyone visits a manufacturer's plant 
•Norm says the word "biscuit" 
•Tom Silva gets to say goodbye at the end of the show 
•Anyone says the word "ogee" 
•A city or local inspector appears 

Finish your drink if:

•Steve breaks anything 
•They actually finish a house project 
•Bob Vila appears on the screen at the 
same time as Steve and Norm 

Finish the whole bottle if:

•Norm breaks anything 
•Anyone gets arrested for violations 
of historic district zoning 



Don't get hammered!


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Please note: this game is not sponsored by WGBH. 
the Public Broadcasting Service, your local public 
television station, the Corporation for Public 
Broadcasting, the Ford Foundation, or anyone else 
who in any way has any connection to any of the 
creators, participants, sponsors, or hangers-on 
of This Old House, The New Yankee Workshop, or 
any other identifiable public television program 
produced anywhere on the planet. I think that 
should cover us.


From ctwest@usgs.gov Sat Feb 15 11:30:09 EST 1997
Article: 182809 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!panix!news.columbia.edu!lamont.ldeo.columbia.edu!news.er.usgs.gov!ctwest
From: ctwest@usgs.gov (Chris West)
Subject: Re: Furnace blower motor for dust collector
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ws10dgadrv.er.usgs.gov
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Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 20:09:31 GMT
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182809


Hi,

I'm getting ready to make one of these, and was wondering which way
to orient the fan. 

Should the exhaust go straight up, or out horizontally?
Low to the floor, mid height, or attach to ceiling (saves floor space)?
Which way would be best to filter the most air quickly? 
Or does it not matter much one way or the other?

Interested to hear from people who have experience with this kind of set up.

Chris

In article <morton-0702971054460001@dialin110.magibox.net>, morton@baste.magibox.net (Chris Morton) writes:
> I built an air filter like this but with a smaller 1/5hp 110volt
> squirrel-cage.  I used three pleated furnace filters in lieu of the bag
> filters in most commercial air cleaners, they are pricey compared to the
> good furnace filters.  It works really good, can get most of the dust out
> of the air in about 5 minutes.  If I remember to turn it on before I start
> making dust,  which I usually forget to do,  my 20X20 garage stays a lot
> cleaner.  My wife loves it, less dust in the house.


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:10 EST 1997
Article: 182810 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!mindspring!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:30:39 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <5di24n$kh8@camel4.mindspring.com>
References: <32FB40EE.4F3F@utaphy.ph.utexas.edu> <rlindber-ya02408000R0702971840420001@207.17.118.2> <32FC20E8.33DB@mail.tds.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182810

Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@mail.tds.net> wrote:

;Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie wrote:

;>   Exactly, the only way to reduce traffic would be an intellegent
split,
;> and have the newsgroups set-up to not allow cross-posts, period.
;> 
;> Ralph

;Interesting concept. But is it even possible? 
;-- 
;My e-mail address contains a "*" to thwart automatic junk mailers.
;Please remove it before responding.
 
If you are having problems sanning the new posts after updating the
group ,try hitting the "N" key and only the new additions will be
displayed .
Again if the group was split ,how about ,"woodworking technique " and
"woodworking machinery /machining ."



From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:11 EST 1997
Article: 182811 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sover.net!news
From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:20:10 GMT
Organization: SoVerNet, Inc.
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Message-ID: <5di231$m5j@thrush.sover.net>
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Is it me or does it seem that people in this group are running around
with calipers much more than is necessary? I've known many woodworkers
who have done fine work without ever uttering how many thousandths
this or that is over, under, whatever. Seems that most have been able
to read to 1/128" (7.8 thousandths but usually known as half a whisker
in these parts) off a tape measure or folding rule. Anything in wood
needing to be much more accurate will be different by morning anyway.
I did break down and buy calipers a few months ago for our production
shop but mainly because we are having some equipment built by an
engineer who needed information to his level of accuracy and
understanding (he is having difficulty relating to the degree to which
wood can change).

Everyone goes to align their TS blade to their miter slot to .00x but
but do they do it when its running and hot (guaranteed it will be
different, even on a PM66) and do they set their miter gauge to the
same level of angular accuracy?
 
I am not lobbying against accuracy but there are limits, especially
when working with wood. Seems that things should be judged on the
results you are getting not by the reading on a dial. Again, is it
invasion of the machinists and engineers or am I out of touch?   

Mike Rainville



From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:12 EST 1997
Article: 182812 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sover.net!news
From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:20:13 GMT
Organization: SoVerNet, Inc.
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Message-ID: <5di233$m5j@thrush.sover.net>
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I've been watching this thread and will throw in my opinion but will
also entertain any information that would help us out.

I've never been one to use a TS guard, for all the reasons mentioned.
Now that we are a production shop with many people using the saw, OSHA
has suggested using a splitter, anti-kickback, and guard. We
reinstalled the original on our PM66 and since then I have never had
so many close calls. Small pieces get trapped near the blade instead
of falling away and I have to reach much further to clear the stock on
the outfeed. I built an adjustable guard that can be fixed to stay
just over the material, an improvement but since it doesn't float it
doesn't meet regs. The splitter works okay if adjusted properly but we
do a lot of different operations in a day and it can't be used for
many so it is on and off, never getting properly adjusted each time.

I detest the notion that it is inherently necessary to go out and buy
and aftermarket setup. Seems about like buying a car with "all season
tires" which are fine if your winter seasons are south of the
Carolinas.

I've been in many other production shops and rarely see a complete
guard setup in place. As I said OSHA "suggested" to it us as it is in
their codes but even those guys understand the extreme limitations of
such devices in the real world.

BTW, does anyone remember the segment on TOH many years ago showing
the shake shingle mill in Canada? Now that was scary.

Mike Rainville      



From JLOUREY@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:13 EST 1997
Article: 182813 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: JOE LOUREY <JLOUREY@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sleigh bed plans
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 09:25:42 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I would appreciate a source for photos of or plans for a sleigh bed.


From mike2m@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:13 EST 1997
Article: 182814 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!mindspring!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mike2m@pipeline.com (Michael J Murray)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:34:38 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Jim Roncace <Jim.Roncace@quest-net.com> wrote:

>I will soon be buying my first table saw.  I plan to buy a unit along the 
>lines of a Jet or Delta Contractor Saw.  My local woodworking supply 
>places have a decent selection, but I'm not convinced their prices are 
>reasonable.  Can anyone suggest some mail order suppliers that regularly 
>have good prices on table saws?

>Thanks,
>Jim
When you compare prices don't foget to include freight. And some
freight companies require someone to be there to recieve the item (1/2
day vacation?). Most local stores should allow for some dickering on
the price too. Also the local guy is there to help with questions and
any problems too. No brainer purchases I recommend mail order but
major purchases when you measure the savings over the life span of the
tool are not that great.
Mike



From rpierce700@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:14 EST 1997
Article: 182815 of rec.woodworking
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From: rpierce700@aol.com (RPierce700)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Old Glue
Date: 8 Feb 1997 15:07:48 GMT
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I have 2 or 3 bottles (1/2 full) of titebond glue setting in the shop that
are thick and can't squeeze out of the bottle. They have been frozen and
just seem dried out.
Is there something I can do for them or are they trash?


From plumpe@innova.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:15 EST 1997
Article: 182816 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.170.121.3!peach!plumpe
From: plumpe@innova.net (Dave Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Furnace blower motor for dust collector
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 15:00:53 GMT
Organization: America.Net, P.O. Box 1222, Alpharetta, GA 30239-1222
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I just finished mine, so haven't much experience with it yet.  1/3hp furnace 
blower, 5 pleated furnace filters (1-20x25, 2-16x20, 2-16x25 from WalMart), 
mounted at the center of the ceiling, blowing up into the space between 2 
joists.  Covered the joists with 1/8 masonite to make ducts to carry the 
filtered air to the ends of the shop (30' long x 19' wide).  Want the clean 
air flowing down the walls & along the floor to the center of the room, & up 
to the filter, bringing the dust with it.
The airflow pattern isn't even.  I want to add ducts at the room ends to carry 
the air to the corners.

Like I said, not much experience with it, but the filters *are* getting dirty.
-Dave

In article <E591Bw.3r1@igsrsparc2.er.usgs.gov>, ctwest@usgs.gov (Chris West) 
wrote:
>I'm getting ready to make one of these, and was wondering which way
>to orient the fan. 
>Should the exhaust go straight up, or out horizontally?
>Low to the floor, mid height, or attach to ceiling (saves floor space)?
>Which way would be best to filter the most air quickly? 
>Or does it not matter much one way or the other?
>
>In article <morton-0702971054460001@dialin110.magibox.net>,
> morton@baste.magibox.net (Chris Morton) writes:
>> I built an air filter like this but with a smaller 1/5hp 110volt
>> squirrel-cage.  I used three pleated furnace filters in lieu of the bag
>> filters in most commercial air cleaners, they are pricey compared to the
>> good furnace filters.  It works really good, can get most of the dust out
>> of the air in about 5 minutes.  If I remember to turn it on before I start
>> making dust,  which I usually forget to do,  my 20X20 garage stays a lot
>> cleaner.  My wife loves it, less dust in the house.

plumpe@innova.net          Dave & Ellen Plumpe, on Lake Keowee in upstate SC.


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:16 EST 1997
Article: 182817 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!news.gmi.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!cloudbreak.rs.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!Marty Escarcega
From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: dust coll. bags -washing frequency?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 06:22:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <5dhulr$pni@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
References: <5dc175$rjb@camel4.mindspring.com> <01bc1533$e7c209a0$0ebc69ce@default>
X-Posted-By: @204.245.21.6 (opencon)
X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.0 Beta #2
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182817


Did you know that a fine layer of dust inside the bag improves the 
filtering of fine dust? 

In article <01bc1533$e7c209a0$0ebc69ce@default>, "F and ML Butzi" 
<butzi@wserv.com> wrote:
>        I wash my dust collecting bag (the one that sits on top of the collector)
>after I finish each project.  Amazing what the wash water looks like after
>about 7-8 minutes of wash time.  I dry it in our drier, and it comes out
>looking like new.  After each washing I notice a big improvement in the
>volume of air the collector moves because the pores in the bag are now
>open.
>
>                        Fred
>
>Trevor Galvin <dilbert1@pipeline.com> wrote in article
><5dc175$rjb@camel4.mindspring.com>...
>> I find that after throwing my bags in the washing machine they work
>> much better than just emptying them. I wash them about every other
>> time they fill up. Anyone else have any comments on cleaning bags or
>> if you switch to the finer mesh bags do you notice a performance drop?
>> dilbert1@pipeline.com
>> 
>> 


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:17 EST 1997
Article: 182818 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf02.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for News Group Split
Date: 8 Feb 1997 15:55:00 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 3
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182818

Right on John and Micheal!!  I skip the posts of no interest, especially
those where EGOS are being challenged.  Those should be split out as
REC.SANDBOX and not sure about REC!


From dnaquin@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:18 EST 1997
Article: 182819 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: "J.D.Naquin" <dnaquin@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Lathe
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 10:07:56 +0000
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 5
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References: <00002045+0000ea88@msn.com>
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To: Michael Casey <MPCasey@msn.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182819

Try Plaza Machinery @ 802-234-9673.  They deal with used metal and 
woodworking machinery.  
If they don't have it, he may suggest an alternate source.  They have 
an e-mail address "Amy.Bergamo@Quest-net.com" you can correspond thru 
also.


From rlindber@kendaco.telebyte.net.REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY Sat Feb 15 11:30:19 EST 1997
Article: 182822 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!rlindber
From: rlindber@kendaco.telebyte.net.REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY (Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:10:56 -0700
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In article <32FC20E8.33DB@mail.tds.net>, Tim Gillespie
<tgillesp@mail.tds.net> wrote:

>Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie wrote:
>
>>   Exactly, the only way to reduce traffic would be an intellegent split,
>> and have the newsgroups set-up to not allow cross-posts, period.
>
>Interesting concept. But is it even possible? 

  Yes, there are newsgroups setup this way. There has been a proposal to
issue an RFC to make all Usenet Big 8 newsgroups non-cross-postable.

-- 
Ralph Lindberg N7BSN         
RV and Camping FAQ <http://kendaco.telebyte.net/rlindber/rv/
They call it "Surfn' the Net" 'cause you can wipe out so easy


From LRAiello@mail.concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:20 EST 1997
Article: 182823 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsgate.cuhk.edu.hk!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!cloudbreak.rs.itd.umich.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: Lou Aiello <LRAiello@mail.concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing a table
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:21:01 -0800
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32FCD21D.677A@mail.concentric.net>
References: <01bc1567$1c6495a0$LocalHost@richardsons>
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To: Rob Richardson <Richardson@onaustralia.com.au>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182823

Rob Richardson wrote:
> 
> I need to design a small table (and build then build it ) . I have the
> design fairly well set but need help with the legs . I would like to have
> curved legs but only have a jigsaw -
> I do not intend to use a lathe. I therefore only need the shape -- any
> suggestions on how to get the correct curve ?
> Rob Richardson

Have you considered purchasing pre-fabricated legs from the home store? 
They usually screw into a mounting plate.  They finish very well.  Also 
they add a layer of functionality to your table by making it easily 
disassembled.


From jhoy@tir.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:20 EST 1997
Article: 182824 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tir.com!not-for-mail
From: Janet Hoy <jhoy@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: DAVIS LEVEL   12"
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:22:28 -0500
Organization: The Internet Ramp
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Reply-To: jhoy@tir.com
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I have for sale at  http://www.ebay.com/aw/item.cgi?item=wvq637962    a
great level in good condition.  Please take a look


From pdxfam@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:21 EST 1997
Article: 182825 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pdxfam@aol.com (PDXFAM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: homemade router table
Date: 8 Feb 1997 16:25:57 GMT
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Norm built the American Woodworker table (with some changes).

Got to the American Woodworker "thing" in AOL (under newstand) and root
around there. Sure you can find it.

merican Woodworker used to offer a book called Woodworking Techniques,
Tips and Shortcust if you bought a sub. The plans for the router table are
in there.

If you can't find it, let me know. I'll copy it and send it to you.

Good luck.

Michael McCammon
Portland, Oregon


From chris@burnley.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:22 EST 1997
Article: 182826 of rec.woodworking
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From: chris@burnley.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notty Pine problem
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:07:37 GMT
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There are primer products specifically designed for such problems.
Two avail. in my area are Kiltz and BIN.  They cut with alcohol, not
paint thinner, and will seal just about anything.  I've used BIN to
seal black tar residue, and its never bled through.


From wscott1678@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:23 EST 1997
Article: 182827 of rec.woodworking
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From: wscott1678@aol.com (WScott1678)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: woodmaster - looking to buy used
Date: 8 Feb 1997 16:31:03 GMT
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hi all,
i am thinking about buying a woodmaster planer/jointer.  does anybody have
a used one for sale?
i would like to hear comments from anybody that owns one.
i am thinking seriously about using it to start a molding shop.  i have
several finish carpenters interested in purchasing finished molding.

any replies would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

trav


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:24 EST 1997
Article: 182828 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: San Diego
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:44:25 GMT
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I live in San Diego,PtLoma to be exact. I am interested in hearing
>from  anybody who can drive the distance in 15 min!!!
remove x to reply
pursuant to US Code,Title47,Chap.5,Subchap.II
any and all nonsolicited commercial e-mail sent
to this address is subject to a download and archival fee
in the amount $500.00US..E-mailing denotes acceptance of terms.


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:25 EST 1997
Article: 182829 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet 1HP or 2HP Dust collector
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:08:05 -0500
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Explodey2 wrote:
> 
> I just got the DC650 1 hp. It has no problem with TS, 12" planer or
> jointer. Has better specs than other 1 hp units. Higher static pressure
> and motor is probably underated (it is rated at 16amps - high for only 1
> hp). I got mine at a show new w/ rebate for $195

Not to beat a dead horse but 16 amps @ 1HP is not an indication of the
motor being overrated. It's an indication that the motor is not very
efficient.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From sra817@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:26 EST 1997
Article: 182830 of rec.woodworking
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From: sra817@aol.com (Sra817)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawer sliding
Date: 8 Feb 1997 17:24:30 GMT
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I would still finish the inside of the carcess, and outside of the
drawers, however, I would substitute wax at the area where wood slides
along wood. By finishing outside and inside surfaces of chest, you'll
ensure even moisture loss/gain throughout the years within the wood.


From dmacken@cybergate.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:27 EST 1997
Article: 182831 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Mackenzie <dmacken@cybergate.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:51:18 -0800
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If steve is still reading along here I will fax you these plans if I
recive them from Mario in Buffalo. Please Email me a fax number or Snail
mail address.

David M.


From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:28 EST 1997
Article: 182832 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
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Try this: make a jig using a couple of pieces of 3/4 plywood about 2"
x 8". Make an L-shaped "fence" out of 1/4" scrap that will hold your
workpieces of 1/4" material in place and let you sandwich them between
the two pieces of 3/4" with clamps. Drill your hole through the top
piece of 3/4" exactly where you will want it in relation to the 1/4"
piece pinned beneath, snug against the fence. Then drill the 1/4"
pieces. They may not blow up if they are well-supported while being
drilled. Your post also made me wonder if your bit is sharp and/or if
your plywood is well laminated. Sometimes it isn't (!)


Paul Ephron wrote:

>Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
>so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
>drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
>holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
>plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
>stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
>hand drill. Thanks for any advice.




From Kirkwood@seacorp.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:29 EST 1997
Article: 182833 of rec.woodworking
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From: AJ Kirkwood <Kirkwood@seacorp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Green Deck Finish
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:48:36 -0800
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I've seen deck preservitive offering a Pressure Treated look to PT
lumber already weathered to a silver/rey hue. Has anyone tried this (I
think Behr offers it) and if so were you satisfied with the results?
Thanks!

aj


From almy@teleport.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:30 EST 1997
Article: 182834 of rec.woodworking
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From: almy@teleport.com (Tom Almy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 07:35:12 -0500
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I've heard that a majority of woodworkers don't use the guard.
Perhaps that's why there are so many tablesaw accidents? Anyway,
I guess that puts me in the minority. There seems to be design
problems with many guards that make them difficult to take off and
put on as well as adjust. Mine (on a Shopsmith model 500) takes about
10 seconds to install and adjust, so it's no problem.

But then again, I also use safety glasses, a mask when sanding, ear
protection with loud tools...

Tom Almy
almy@teleport.com


From crineh7419@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:31 EST 1997
Article: 182835 of rec.woodworking
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From: crineh7419@aol.com (CRineh7419)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TEA CART PLANS "NEED"
Date: 8 Feb 1997 17:57:36 GMT
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INTERESTED IN RECIEVING PLANS, PAPER OR CAD, ON AN OLD FASHION TEA CART


From kkao@morgan.ucs.mun.ca Sat Feb 15 11:30:32 EST 1997
Article: 182836 of rec.woodworking
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From: kkao@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Kenneth Kao)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ryobi vs Skil?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 18:08:51 GMT
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Hello All: 

I am starting into woodworking and would like to buy a router. I do not
intend to do a lot of heavy work, mostly small pieces of furniture,
cabinets and shelving. After considering price and features, I have
narrowed my choices to two models available in my area. One is a fixed
Ryobi, 1.75 hp and the other is a Skil plunge model, also 1.75 hp. 

Which one should I get? 

Any and all advice welcome with thanks.

Ken Kao


From jlwomack@prysm.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:33 EST 1997
Article: 182837 of rec.woodworking
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From: jlwomack@prysm.net (Joseph L. Womack)
Subject: Re: Choices of new machine
Message-ID: <32fd947c.3691742@news.lsumc.edu>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:11:23 GMT
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On Fri, 7 Feb 1997 18:07:17 -0500, "Daniel A. Strockis"
<strockid@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote:

>    I have a table saw and would like to purchase another machine.  from
>what i have gathered...it could be a toss up between a planer, jointer, or
>a band saw.  For those of you with experience in creating yourown shop,
>would you give me your opinion on which tool would be a wiszse second
>investment.  I would also like to knnow which brand and model you prefer. 
>
>
>
>                       thanks,
>                             Dan
>
>
Presuming you have no other power tools,  I would think a good 3hp
plunge router (I have a DeWalt) would be most usefull .. a very
versatile tool. Then I would build a router table. Next I find a
planer to be usefull. I have a Delta Table top 12in, no complaints.
Next I guess I find the band saw to be usefull. I have a 2.5hp Meber
(Italian) sold by Laguna Tools. Nice tool. Joiners are cool but
tricky. A good rip blade and a dedicated crosscut blade for your table
saw would help, as would a set of stacked dado blades. I might get
those before I got my next tool. Of course, you might check out the
Electronic Neanderthal Web Page and start collecting some used bench
planes. All this stuff can be done by hand ... cheaper and better in
the loing run. Best of luck.

Joe
Joseph L. Womack
295 Buena Vista Rd.
Gloster, LA 71030
Tel: (318) 925-0463
Fax: (318) 925-9673
Email jlwomack@prysm.net



From jbg16a60@cc.utah.edu Sat Feb 15 11:30:34 EST 1997
Article: 182838 of rec.woodworking
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From: jbg16a60@cc.utah.edu (James B Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Japanese Joinery
Date: 8 Feb 1997 17:55:52 GMT
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Mark Nappi (e320s@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: 	I once saw a book on Japanese joinery. Sadly I didn't buy it.It had a
: great picture of a version of a keyed scarf joint that was pegged from the
: top. There was also some interesting dovetail designs in it if I remember
: right. If you know the name of the book please e-mail me. I would like to get
: it and the store I saw it in no longer has it in stock.

The book is available at Japan Woodworker and I believe is called 
"Japanese Joinery".


From acroii@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:34 EST 1997
Article: 182839 of rec.woodworking
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From: acroii@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith 5 ??
Date: 8 Feb 1997 18:51:41 GMT
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Just attended their demo at a local mall.  Twenty years ago I was on their
mailing list, but couldn't afford one.  Now I've purchased many stand
alone tools that do most of the functions the Shopsmith does.  For those
with space limitations, I would take a serious look at it.  The setup
times in switching from one function to another is really negligible. 
Especially if you take the time to make handy storage racks for the
accessories.

Here are some random observations:
The fit & finish looked good, and it ran very smooth.
The table tilts for miters (table saw) which may be a pain for larger
panels.
The horizontal boring capabilities are great & would be hard toduplicate
without spending a lot of $.
Use it for 30 days without laying out a penny.  They even pay return
freight if you decide not to keep it.
They throw in a couple of major accessories if you order at the dog & pony
show.  I would either seek out a show near you or talk long and hard for
the same deal direct.
Sometimes there are a couple of ads in the classified section of the local
newspaper for used ones.
Dust collection system ran quiet enough to carry on a conversation next to
it.

Tom D.


From acroii@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:35 EST 1997
Article: 182840 of rec.woodworking
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From: acroii@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gopher wood
Date: 8 Feb 1997 18:51:45 GMT
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that's what I do when I need some.
Is this a form of ebonics?
Sorry

Tom D


From lange@mkol1.dseg.ti.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:36 EST 1997
Article: 182841 of rec.woodworking
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From: lange@mkol1.dseg.ti.com (mark lange)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing a table
Date: 8 Feb 1997 16:52:26 GMT
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Rob  Richardson (Richardson@onaustralia.com.au) wrote:
: I need to design a small table (and build then build it ) . I have the
: design fairly well set but need help with the legs . I would like to have 
: curved legs but only have a jigsaw -
: I do not intend to use a lathe.	I therefore only need the shape -- any
: suggestions on how to get the correct curve ?
: Rob Richardson

  Take a look at Woodsmith, No 106, August 1996.  They have plans for 
building Cabriole legs that could probably be done using your jig saw
some chisels, and a wood file. The plans show cutting out the legs with a 
band saw (depends upon length of blade you can fit into your jig saw).
Their results look great and might fit your needs.

Good luck.

Regards,

Mark L.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions only, my employer has its own opinions
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From lange@mkol1.dseg.ti.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:37 EST 1997
Article: 182842 of rec.woodworking
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From: lange@mkol1.dseg.ti.com (mark lange)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Context! Was Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars
Date: 8 Feb 1997 16:46:13 GMT
Organization: Texas Instruments Inc
Lines: 38
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John Hofstad-Parkhill (jhparkhill@sihope.com) wrote:
: As noted, you're not.

  I'm glad I'm not, I was afraid I might be.  Now I can
rest easier at night knowing that I am not. :-)

: They've also introduced a "lite" version for about $80.

  Wow, sure beats the cost of the "heavy" version.  OTOH,
my heavy version works in off-road applications much better.  


: Same outfit (A-Line-it).

  B-Line-it is the cheap far eastern knock-off :-)

As often noted, context is important.  This is probably the most
egregious example of posting a reply to heaven knows what comment
without any context.  I know that there is a great deal of
complaint about people quoting large  volumes of text for a two
line reply,  however, there is an opposite extreme and this post is
it.  New posters seem to very often be afraid to quote *any* text.
Remember, particularly in a high volume newsgroup, folks don't follow
a thread verbatim.  In many cases, days may pass betwee postings to the
thread, in other cases replys may post to a user's machine before the
original thread.  In all cases some *small* reminder of what the comment
is replying to, or whose opinion you're agreeing with are appreciated.
(I really like the one-line posts that say, "I agree" to a thread
with two diametrically opposed opinions)


  Sorry for the rant, but this is a real sore spot (that and the 
fact the baby has a cold, the wife is out, so I'm not in the shop :-( )


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions only, my employer has its own opinions
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From mam@unixg.ubc.ca Sat Feb 15 11:30:38 EST 1997
Article: 182843 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!uunet!in1.uu.net!206.229.87.25!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!unixg.ubc.ca!not-for-mail
From: "M.A. Martin" <mam@unixg.ubc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veritas Router Table
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:10:46 -0700
Organization: The University of British Columbia
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32FCC1A1.F1C@unixg.ubc.ca>
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SLIPPOY wrote:
> 
> I've got my Veritas mounted on my TS extension and it works well.  Only
> problem is I was using a 1" pattern cutting bit and when it hit the piece
> of maple I was working on it kicked back, causing the router, a Freud, to
> come out of the mountings on the table, with the bit scoring the table.
> Called Lee Valley who replaced the table and the bit which wasn't even
> theirs.  Installed new table and bit into router, hand tightened
> everything down as tight as I could and very cautiously fed same piece of
> maple into bit.  It kicked back again, router went flying and bit rotored
> straight up in the air and struck me in the chest.  By some miracle I
> wasn't hurt, but it scared hell out of me.  Lee Valley gain replaced the
> table and this time I got a 1/2" x1" bit.  No problems since, but I get
> nervous everytime I feed wood into the router.
> Anybody else have a bad experience with the table?


	I've had no problems like this with my Veritas table.  However I have
had problems when using 1/4" shank bits in my 3 HP Makita router - 
the 1/4" shank just isn't strong enough to take the HP when cutting
hardwood.   Of course with gentle feed rates it should be OK but I
don't my safety to depend on a delicate judgment regarding feed rates.


						Mont


From rhybels@uic.edu Sat Feb 15 11:30:38 EST 1997
Article: 182844 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!newsfeed.acns.nwu.edu!news.cc.uic.edu!usenet
From: Ralph Hybels <rhybels@uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:01:45 -0600
Organization: UIC
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Greetings.

I can't find this supposed new group, rec.crafts.woodturning.

Am I missing something?  Do I have the name wrong?  

Please send me an email at rhybels@uic.edu if you can help.

I've just bought a lathe so I'll be getting back into turning after a
gap of about 18 years -- and missing it the whole time.  Actually, I got
a Woodtek spindle lathe and a Vega bowl lathe and a bunch of tools and
chucks and such -- quite a haul and a pretty decent deal from a guy who
was moving to a smaller shop space.

I'm going to ask Mr. Troll to keep away from them.

Ralph


From rouleau@eznet.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:39 EST 1997
Article: 182845 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!node2.frontiernet.net!news.eznet.net!not-for-mail
From: rouleau@eznet.net (Jon A Rouleau)
Subject: RE: Split the group?
Message-ID: <32fd0e89.9516744@news.eznet.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 23:41:47 GMT
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It would seem to me that if we split the group, a lot of the questions
that are posted by new woodworkers asking for information would be
ignored.  Those people who want to split the group have the option of
ignoring most of the postings if they so desire.  Why take something
that works and screw it up???



From bobklein@gulf.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:40 EST 1997
Article: 182846 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: Robert Klein <bobklein@gulf.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodfinishing
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 01:12:22 -0600
Organization: Robert's Antiques & Restoration
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32FC2756.48F1@gulf.net>
References: <01bc1011$9e68fba0$a39086d0@TYR23520>
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Technically the first coat is a sealer.  Sanding sealer is formulated to
be easier to sand.  Sanding sealer has a lubricant added to aid
sanding.  This is true whether it is a lacquer or a varnish sanding
sealer.  Any first coat will make the wood fibers stand proud and they
need to be cut down, usually with a 320 grit paper, sometimes coarser,
sometimes finer.
=================================

Ed Elliott wrote:
> 
> Re:need help on lacker finish,do you need a sealer like sand & seal.
> thanks.ED.

-- 
Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL  32505   USA

bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com




From keithhill_@_mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:41 EST 1997
Article: 182847 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!mindspring!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: keithhill_@_mindspring.com (remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam)  (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:32:14 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 44
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On Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:20:10 GMT, maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville) wrote:

>Is it me or does it seem that people in this group are running around
>with calipers much more than is necessary? I've known many woodworkers
>who have done fine work without ever uttering how many thousandths
>this or that is over, under, whatever. Seems that most have been able
>to read to 1/128" (7.8 thousandths but usually known as half a whisker
>in these parts) 

<<Snip>>
Actually, The variation for average deciduous species as well as composite
materials that have been dried will show variance of .02mm or .00078" (78- Ten-
thousandths) from dawn to dusk, day in and day out with varied humidity and
temperature changes causing the largest effect on movement..  In our production
facility here, we try to set up machine tolerances to 100% more than the largest
material variance (or .01mm) for all standard panel saw setups as well as boring
machine settings.  This insures that we stay within the +/- .02mm variance of
the material movement / fluctuation itself.  .02mm is about the thickness of a
sheet of toilet paper, for example.

>I am not lobbying against accuracy but there are limits, especially
>when working with wood. Seems that things should be judged on the
>results you are getting not by the reading on a dial. Again, is it
>invasion of the machinists and engineers or am I out of touch?   

<<Snip>>

If you are making widgets for a living, and your widgets have to match other
widgets made in different parts of the world, then there has to be some +/-
Variance standard set.  If you are making window boxes in your garage, that's a
different story.



Sincerely,

Keith

Keith Hill, Project Manager, Forbes & Company
1002 Investment Blvd., Apex, NC. 27502-1954
(919)362-4277/387-7997(Fax)/303-0240(alt-Fax)
 
keithhill @ mindspring.com
www.mindspring.com/~keithhill/


From aldenm@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:42 EST 1997
Article: 182848 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news
From: Alden Miller <aldenm@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Stanley # 50 Beading or Combination Plane
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:50:43 -0800
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 18
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My father recently gave me a Stanley #50 Beading or Combination Plane. 
It has a patent date on the body of the plane 8-11-03 and "B" Casting
mark on frame and fence. The fence has a patent date of SEPT 11 83 on
it.  It seems to be complete except for blades.

I have three questions.  The different patent dates make me wonder is
this two planes that have been put together?  Are cutters available, if
so where?  About how much is it worth?

Please reply both to the newsgroup and me, I don't want to miss the
posting!

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Alden Miller

aldenm@erols.com


From lucifer@sheol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:42 EST 1997
Article: 182849 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!news.postech.ac.kr!newsfeed.kreonet.re.kr!newsfeed.dacom.co.kr!arclight.uoregon.edu!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net!not-for-mail
From: lucifer@sheol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: The FAQ for this newsgroup
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:28:46 GMT
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Message-ID: <32fcd28c.25975483@news2.ibm.net>
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and other worthwhile links are at
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html

The search engine for all news groups is at 
http://www.dejanews.com/forms/dnq.html 

The Usenet may also be searched at
http://www.infoseek.com/

but to retrieve binaries, search Usenet at
http://altavista.digital.com

a Usenet general-info URL is
http://www.yahoo.com/News_and_Media/Usenet/Newsgroup_Listings/

To reply, format the following properly. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Spammers, you know...
Chuck - cwuest at ibm dot net


From proybal@pacbell.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:43 EST 1997
Article: 182850 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!news.gmi.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars; Am I fantasizing,or did I see these Somewh
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:04:08 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32FCA3EE.68B2@pacbell.net>
References: <970206220158_473808619@emout19.mail.aol.com> <01bc157c.d979d6e0$cb9e09ce@horizons>
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John Hofstad-Parkhill wrote:

> 
> They've also introduced a "lite" version for about $80.
> 
> Same outfit (A-Line-it).
> >


I've had an A-Lign-It for about a year and found it very helpful for
setting up a variety of machines, including a tablesaw. It has a mitre
slot bar as well as a second bar, the pair of which can be configured in
a variety of ways to measure blade and bit runout, rip fence adjustment,
etc. It's a good product.

Phil




From sri00@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:44 EST 1997
Article: 182851 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: sri00@aol.com (SRI00)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:03:25 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <19970208200301.PAA01574@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182851

Hey Steve I bet you got a great offer for tweezers, at least that's the
one I got sent today from this newsgroup. I use AOL so most of the
spammers are stopped, but the one's that get through I report back to the
postmaster of their service. You can attach this little ditty to it. I
don't know if it helps or not but it only takes a second to paste in.

Offence under US code Title 47, Sec 227(b) (1) (C)
I have recently received UNSOLICITED and UNWANTED junk e-mail from an
individual who appears to be using your site.  A copy of that mail is
attached herewith.  Junk Mail is now regarded as the same as unwanted
and unsolicited junk faxes and telemarketing calls - all of which are
now ILLEGAL under US federal law:

     By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
     meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)
     (1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to
     such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual monetary
     loss, or $500, whichever is greater, for EACH violation.

Please ensure this is stopped NOW.  You have been put on notice.  If you
confirm to me promptly that effective action has been taken against those
persons responsible, I will not take the matter further on this occasion.

If you do not provide me with such confirmation in a timely manner, or if
ANY further UNSOLICITED or UNWANTED junk mail should be received from your
site, I will instruct my attorney to issue a writ WITHOUT FURTHER NOTICE,
and the matter will then be pursued under federal law.  I will separately
notify your upstream providers as they may also be liable for violations
originating from your site.





From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:45 EST 1997
Article: 182852 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!wetware!news.tbcnet.com!news.structured.net!news.ism.net!usenet
From: Mike Glennon <mtcowboy@marsweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notty Pine problem
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:19:26 -0800
Organization: M@RSweb
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32FCDFCE.67B8@marsweb.com>
References: <5di0rt$ru7@nr1.toronto.istar.net>
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To: Steven Cavanaugh <spc@rideau.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182852

Howdy steve

Start stripping!!! no way around it. The shellac will work or Kilz paint 
as someone else mentioned, but pass on the varnish products since they 
will not adhere to the pitch coated and oozing knots.

Mike G. (mtcowboy@marsweb.com)
Lolo Mt.

Steven Cavanaugh wrote:
> 
> I hope some one can help me with the following finishing problem.
> 
> Customer has a set of windows made of notty pine, they have painted them with latex
> white paint, of course in less then a year the notts have come right through as dark
> brown spots.
> 
> It is my understanding that if one has fresh wood, using shelac ( less then one year
> old) and coating the nots, this will not happen.
> 
> With out trying to strip the latex paint, is there any way of stopping this problem.
> 
> Would a coat of varathane, followed by a oil based paint put an end to this problem by
> chance.
> 
> Any ideas would be welcome.


From bobklein@gulf.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:45 EST 1997
Article: 182853 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!relay.ga.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: Robert Klein <bobklein@gulf.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: coloring shellac
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 02:35:08 -0600
Organization: Robert's Antiques & Restoration
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32EDBA3C.15BC@gulf.net>
References: <jimelms-2201972142150001@europa200.europa.com>
Reply-To: bobklein@gulf.net
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182853

Use any alcohol soluble dye.  

Just don't use much or it will streak when you brush it; if you spray it
won't matter.

===================================

jim elms wrote:
> 
> I would like to take blond shellac and add some color to it.  
> what type of color works best with the shellac mixture?


-- 
Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL  32505   USA

bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From bandrew@eaglequest.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:46 EST 1997
Article: 182854 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!relay.ga.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!news.tacom.army.mil!marge.eaglequest.com!not-for-mail
From: bandrew <bandrew@eaglequest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 6" jointers
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 20:49:35 -0800
Organization: EagleQuest, Inc.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32ED855F.27A4@eaglequest.com>
References: <5cif9f$k50@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
Reply-To: bandrew@eaglequest.com
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m-david@uiuc.edu wrote:
> 
> Any experiences with recently purchased 6" jointers from:
> 
> Grizzly, Jet, or Delta?
> 
> Recomendations?
I purchased the 6 inch jointer from Delta a few months ago: I LOVE
IT!!!  I use it almost as much as my table saw.  Makes surface prep
easy.
The Delta was easy to assembly (only briefist ref to instructions :-) 
).
Very easy to adjust, use, and clean.  Quiet.

My only complaint:  I am not connected to central dust system -- tends
to clog up easily requiring me to un-clug (dangerous and inconvenient).

BUT, I would buy another in a minute, without hesitation!

bb


From ztcwrs@FLASH.NET Sat Feb 15 11:30:47 EST 1997
Article: 182855 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!relay.ga.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!FLASH.NET!ztcwrs
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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            <32EA5D99.2E16@i1.net>
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:20:20 -0800
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: "William R. Sheppard" <ztcwrs@FLASH.NET>
Subject: Re: Some disturbing news
Lines: 60
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182855

Carl Peters, M.D. wrote:
>
> Patrick Olguin wrote:
> >
> > I just received a newsletter from one of the local (SoCal) woodworking
> > supply stores: Classic Woodcraft Supply Company, located in Orange. This
> > mom-and-pop store is celebrating its fourth year in business by having to
> > defend itself in a lawsuit against Woodcraft (a well-known national
> > mail-order and retail woodworking supply outfit) for trademark
> > infringement and something about unfair competition.*********************
>
> I agree this is mean spirited. In my local area, a small country shop that
> had been selling Levis jeans for decades was told by the company that it would
> stop shipping to the store, as the store's image did not fit Levi's projected
> image of 'sexy, sophisticated,...'. Maybe I'm missing something here, but
> most of the folks on the street do not fit that image. Just more of the
 growing
> trend of boorish snobbery. In short, a local outrage turned into a national
> story this past week, all quite negative for the Levi Strauss Co. in San
> Francisco. The company has backed off.
>
> My point here is to make this Woodcraft vs. the little guy nuisance suit a
> thorn in their side - if enough woodworkers here complain, plus some
> publicity in the media, Woodcraft may re-think their aggressive stance. By
> the way, the suit would probably not win (and Woodcraft may know this), but
> the ridiculous cost of litigation can cream the mom and pop outfit.
>
> Patrick, can you provide more info for us and keep us posted? Anyone know
> Woodcraft's E-mail and headquarters addresses? Names of those that run the
> company? Can you post them for us? Also suggest you talk to the local press,
> and even some area big city papers (esp. if Woodcraft is in them)and see if
> they will bite into this special interest story. Tempt them with the Levis
> furor. I will be visiting the Woodcraft in St. Louis today, and ask my friend
> who works there for some info. If this predatory behavior continues, I will
> start shopping elsewhere.
>
> Carl Peters
>
> > woodcraft, and wants the humble little store (one of the only places that
> > carries quality hand tools locally) to change its name.
> >
> > I buy from both companies, and have for a long time, without ever getting
> > them confused. To my knowledge, Classic Woodcraft does not do mail order.
> >
> > Here's the rub, though. Rumor has it that Woodcraft (the big company) is
> > going to open several stores in SoCal, to cash in on the huge popularity
> > of woodworking here. Sounds to me like this suit is part of that
> > groundwork. This seems like a classic case of a big company trying to
> > intimidate a small company, and I don't like it. I like it even less,
> > because I've always had good experiences with both.
> >
> > CWSC even offered to change their name, avoiding litigation, if Woodcraft
> > would foot the bill for the $3K to redo their sign. No go.
> >
> > This stinks, big-time.
> >
> > O'DeenWoodcraft has to defend its copyright or face the possiblity of losing
the exclusive rights to their name. If they let one mom and pop get away
with using their copyright pretty soon a lot of mom and pop's will be
using it. Let's get on with woodworking and let the lawyers do their
thing!


From dwr@SHELBYNET.NET Sat Feb 15 11:30:48 EST 1997
Article: 182856 of rec.woodworking
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Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 19:27:15 -0500
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: "D. Warren Robison" <dwr@SHELBYNET.NET>
Subject: Re: Software
Lines: 19
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182856

>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 19:23:30 -0500
>To: MPlocarSR@worldnet.att.net
>From: "D. Warren Robison" <dwr@shelbynet.net>
>Subject: Re: Software
>
>At 04:12 PM 1/27/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Looking for s/w to manage woodworking business.  Something like
>>QuickBooks or DacEasy.  I need to have an "Assembly" and the parts from
>>inventory to make that "Assembly".  Looking for Shareware (of course)
>>but would buy well known s/w.
>>
>>
>>thanks
>>
>>
>
Try Woodweb.com, download.com & shareware.com, all of them will have what
you need.

Warren


From bonner@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:49 EST 1997
Article: 182857 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Phil Bonner" <bonner@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:10:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <01bc15f9$80f96800$LocalHost@default>
References: <5dd2da$sf2$1@news.eecs.umich.edu> <NOmkepkeSPAM-0702971005440001@47.130.5.56> <32FBBE74.5E8A@205.252.116.10>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182857

Dejanews research is one of the most useful means of tool evaluation that I
know. I just purchased an Elu 3339 (from which Dewalt 625 was cloned), 
based on Deja news research and after screening hundreds of archived
rec.woodworking postings from router users about their experiences with
their routers.  

Generally, the Freud 2000E was well-liked in these postings but too many
stories of motor winding problems scared me off the Freud and caused me to
lean towards the Elu 3339 for use in router table.  I got the PC 630 for
hand held work.  I like both routers very much. The Elu 3339 is very smooth
- but - costs a lot more than the Freud.

However the best advice I can giver you is,  by all means,  check out
Dejanews.com for all rec.woodworking postings about routers and then you
can make a very informed decision.

I see that Steve, below,  offered some great router purchase advice.

Phil

Peterson <peterson@205.252.116.10> wrote in article
<32FBBE74.5E8A@205.252.116.10>...
: Mark Kepke wrote:
: > 
: > In article <5dd2da$sf2$1@news.eecs.umich.edu>,
: > rjones@news-server.eecs.umich.edu (Randy Jones) wrote:
: > 
: > >Hi there,
: > >   I am about to buy my first router.  I'll be using it for relatively
: > >small projects around the house, but I have the dream of someday
: > >trying my hand at some raised panel cabinets, too.
: > 
: > Use the DejaNews service (www.dejanews.com).  About a billion+6 "What
: > brand of router is best ?" postings there.
: > 
: > -Mark
: > 
: > --
: > My opinions, etc.
: OK - that is far too many posts to sort through.  He wants an informed
: opinion.  If you have one, give it.  If not, shut up.
: 
: There are too many posts on this group for the totally trivial ones. 
: Say something useful, or say nothing.
: 
: Steve
: 


From dundonal@global.co.za Sat Feb 15 11:30:50 EST 1997
Article: 182858 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsgate.cuhk.edu.hk!news-hk.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-stock.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-dc.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.co.za!osprey.global.co.za!news
From: "Andrew Dunn" <dundonal@global.co.za>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dust Collection for Radial Arm Saw
Date: 8 Feb 1997 23:46:56 GMT
Organization: Global Internet Access
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <01bc15f7$04f4f8c0$44a903c4@dundonal.global.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mdm-po4.pe-anx1.net.global.co.za
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182858

There must be millions of radial arm saw owners out there! Will those of
you who have developed an EFFECTIVE method of collecting dust from this
versatile tool, please let me have the benefit of your wisdom please? 

I've tried some methods using a HPLV hose, but it keeps on falling off as
it is not compatible with the collection outlet on the saw.  

Thanks for your help
Andrew Dunn
Port Elizabeth South Africa
andydunn@global.co.za


From bonner@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:51 EST 1997
Article: 182859 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Phil Bonner" <bonner@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses? Correction.
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:20:17 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <01bc15fb$7a0edbe0$8702b8cd@default>
References: <32F611CF.7306@eng.sun.com> <32F6B912.2577@cybergate.com> <5ddhl4$et0$1@buffnet2.buffnet.net> <32FCAF06.6795@cybergate.com> <01bc15f7$8f1ed840$LocalHost@default>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182859

Correction...The sawhorse plans mentioned in my previous posting came out
of Woodsmith #97,  February, 1995,  issue.

Phil Bonner <bonner@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<01bc15f7$8f1ed840$LocalHost@default>...
: After using various ready-made brackets for saw horses which were
: invariably wobbly, I built two pairs of sawhorses from plans in Woodsmith
: issue #50. 


From *ljthomas@inreach.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:51 EST 1997
Article: 182860 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!haven.umd.edu!news.umbc.edu!news.ums.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inreach.com!usenet
From: Lowell Thomas <*ljthomas@inreach.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith Belt
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 09:51:30 -0800
Organization: Internet News Server
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32FCBD21.3394@inreach.com>
References: <970206220158_473808619@emout19.mail.aol.com> <01bc1555$6ab85500$68be19ce@overlord.dmv.com> <32FC0BAE.2171@csra.net>
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To: The Stephens Family <kens@csra.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182860

The Stephens Family wrote:
> 
> The drive belt on my Shopsmith just broke after many years.
> 
> This is the belt that is about an inch wide and is ribbed cross-wise with
> blocks that mesh with the grooves in the shafts.
> 
> Is the company still alive, and where can I get the belts?

You can contact Shopsmith at
http://members.aol.com/shpsmith/index.html

Good Luck 
Lowell


From gtshaw@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:30:52 EST 1997
Article: 182861 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!sympatico.ca!not-for-mail
From: "George T. Shaw" <gtshaw@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to "weather" new cuts in "barnboard"?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:21:12 GMT
Organization: Sympatico
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182861

Well it's not really "barnboard"; and I don't want to wait for nature to
weather it.

I have made some repairs to a very old (1800s) child's wooden horse. I used
old pine boards to make new hind legs and would like to make the new work
match the old. The original is unfinished "weathered" (gray) pine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

George


From patmac@insnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:53 EST 1997
Article: 182862 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.nap.net!news.insnet.com!pm2-26.insnet.com!patmac
From: patmac@insnet.com (P. McInerney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kerf width for "ultra-thin" blades?
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 14:14:23 +1000
Organization: Interactive Network Systems, Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <patmac.455.0024FB0D@insnet.com>
References: <32f51b65.2040413@news.sccsi.com> <32F60EF6.1C5A@california.com> <32F7182E.41C6@charlie.gland.sgi.com> <1997Feb4.110030.27873@indyvax.iupui.edu> <01bc12e3$3f715780$042710ac@PCTPK.giddings.com> <32F7F969.4E6@silcom.com>
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 Dan McCammon <dmc@silcom.com> wrote:

>The Ultra thin-kerf Marathon kerf is visibly narrower than a regular
>thin kerf (3/32") blade. I haven't measured but I think it's around 1/16".

I think the blade is 1/16" but the kerf is still 3/32".  I haven't seen 
anything narrower than 3/32".

> I have found that the saw cuts don't look real nice though.  I use a
>stabilizer to help in that department.

You are right.  The cut isn't always smooth.  The orginal poster would
be better off with a very smooth finish blade (80 teeth maybe ?)  Unless
you can get an extra rip per board it doesn't make any difference if the
waste leftover is for example 1" or 1 1/4".

Pat McInerney



From c7hills@jps.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:54 EST 1997
Article: 182863 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: c7hills@jps.net (Cliff Zevenbergen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:46:06 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <32fce54e.15336488@news.jps.net>
References: <32FBAE28.1EB8@flash.net>
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Check out their web site at http://www.shopnotes.com.  You can do
searches of their past issues and see what there is in the areas that
you want to work in.

If you don't have that kind of time and want an immediate answer.
YES.  

Cliff Zevenbergen
c7hills@jps.net

On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 16:35:20 -0600, "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
wrote:

>Ok, so I'm a newbie (as you may have seen from other posts...)  Should I
>get the ShopNotes backissues for $80?
>-- 
>===========================================================================
>Michael R. Dow
>Independent Excel Representative
>RTD, Austin, TX
>
>Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
>be charged a $100 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
>to me - consider this an official notice:
>
>"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
>meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),
>it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment.
>By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
>is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
>whichever is greater, for each violation."
>
>for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm



From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:54 EST 1997
Article: 182864 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!02-newsfeed.univie.ac.at!01-newsfeed.univie.ac.at!news.radio.cz!CESspool!news-feed.inet.tele.dk!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!wetware!news.tbcnet.com!news.structured.net!news.ism.net!usenet
From: Mike Glennon <mtcowboy@marsweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old Glue
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:16:19 -0800
Organization: M@RSweb
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32FCDF13.7403@marsweb.com>
References: <19970208150701.KAA17652@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: RPierce700 <rpierce700@aol.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182864

If they've been frozen their trash.

Mike G. (mtcowboy@marsweb.com)
Lolo Mt.

RPierce700 wrote:
> 
> I have 2 or 3 bottles (1/2 full) of titebond glue setting in the shop that
> are thick and can't squeeze out of the bottle. They have been frozen and
> just seem dried out.
> Is there something I can do for them or are they trash?


From dking@nolansys.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:55 EST 1997
Article: 182865 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!02-newsfeed.univie.ac.at!01-newsfeed.univie.ac.at!news.radio.cz!CESspool!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!worldnet.att.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!insync!uunet!in3.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Dale King <dking@nolansys.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Problem with Saw
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:13:20 -0500
Organization: Nolan Systems
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All,

I'm having a frustrating time with my Sears Craftsman 10in Radial Arm
Saw. The blade cuts but only barely. It bogs down to a stop when cutting
anything other than a straight cut thru pine.  The starting capacitor
was bad so I replaced it and it checks out good. There is a relay in the
circuit and that's been replaced. I've had Sears on the phone and they
can't figure it out. I took the motor with the starting capacitor and
relay to a motor shop and had it bench tested and it tested good. The
saw is about 10 years old but hasn't been used much in the last 5 years
and wasn't used much before that. I've got a new blade, so that's not
it. Any ideas out there? I hate to dump the thing since it looks brand
new but I do need it to cut wood. Any help would be muchly appreciated.
You can reply to me directly if you prefer at dking@nolansys.com.

Thanks,

Dale King


From rouleau@eznet.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:56 EST 1997
Article: 182866 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!symbios.com!southwind.net!news-chi-8.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!node2.frontiernet.net!news.eznet.net!not-for-mail
From: rouleau@eznet.net (Jon A Rouleau)
Subject: re: choice of new machines
Message-ID: <32fd0c8d.9008359@news.eznet.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 23:35:39 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182866

I think that I have answered this question before.  I would have to
know what you intend to do before I could try to tell you what you
should buy.  If you want to do fret work it doesn't make sense to buy
a bandsaw.  In machines, especially woodworking, you usually get what
you pay for, which translates into the more expensive, the better the
quality, (USUALLY).  If you buy an inexpensive machine and it doesn't
do the job, and you have to buy the more expensive machine, how much
have you saved???  The machine I use the most is a Woodhaven router
table top (I built the base) with a Bosch 1604 router mounted in it.
Good luck with you decision



From patmac@insnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:57 EST 1997
Article: 182867 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 14:41:17 -0600
From: patmac@insnet.com
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855434166.8498@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <5dd2da$sf2$1@news.eecs.umich.edu> <NOmkepkeSPAM-0702971005440001@47.130.5.56> <32FBBE74.5E8A@205.252.116.10>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182867

In article <32FBBE74.5E8A@205.252.116.10>,
  peterson@205.252.116.10 wrote:
>
> Mark Kepke wrote:
> >
> > In article <5dd2da$sf2$1@news.eecs.umich.edu>,
> > rjones@news-server.eecs.umich.edu (Randy Jones) wrote:
> >
> > >Hi there,
> > >   I am about to buy my first router.  I'll be using it for relatively
> > >small projects around the house, but I have the dream of someday
> > >trying my hand at some raised panel cabinets, too.
> >
> > Use the DejaNews service (www.dejanews.com).  About a billion+6 "What
> > brand of router is best ?" postings there.

> >
> > -Mark
> >
> > --
> > My opinions, etc.
> OK - that is far too many posts to sort through.  He wants an informed
> opinion.  If you have one, give it.  If not, shut up.
>
> There are too many posts on this group for the totally trivial ones.
> Say something useful, or say nothing.
>
> Steve

I think he made an excellent reply Steve.  If users would go
to dejanews first, they would find thousands of previous posts
covering the "What's the Best Router ?" area.  That would
eliminate the repetitive posts in this group.

Pat McInerney

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:30:57 EST 1997
Article: 182868 of rec.woodworking
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From: barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:24:54 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona
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In article <32FB5AE8.7A66@amityedu.com>, Lyn <info@amityedu.com> writes:



>FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN


<asine, rude, unfunny, dork-o-rama attempt at humor 
snipped for the betterment of civilization>


DEAR LYN,


HA HAH!  GOOD WON!   I GOT ONE FER YOU:


Three reasons a lot of people think you're a jackass for posting stuff like
that:

(1)  It's sexist and mean.
(2)  It has nothing to do with this forum.
(3)  It's pathetically unfunny.


	Maybe when you get to high school, you'll learn how to act in public,
eh?  Meanwhile go study for your social studies quiz!


-- Andrew (speaking, as always, for himself, and no one else, much less
his employer) 



From jburkhol@imperium.net Sat Feb 15 11:30:58 EST 1997
Article: 182869 of rec.woodworking
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From: jburkhol@imperium.net (James Burkholder)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:55:00 -0500
Organization: Imperium Internet
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In article <9702050717.AA16999@rsmail.novitech.sk>, Viliam Holuby
<vilo@NOVITECH.SK> wrote:

> I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is lot =
> of wooden garbage and sawdust.

Sawdust is used to compost things.   The grass clippings and other organic
waste is mixed with sawdust, then composted.  Check some books at the
library on composting.
I don't make that much sawdust, and am reduced to actually buying it from
the local lumbar yard.   They're not dumb.


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:30:59 EST 1997
Article: 182870 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: some disturbing news
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 22:12:46 GMT
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Oh Boy, would that open a can of worms for you know who.
remove x to reply
pursuant to US Code,Title47,Chap.5,Subchap.II
any and all nonsolicited commercial e-mail sent
to this address is subject to a download and archival fee
in the amount $500.00US..E-mailing denotes acceptance of terms.


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:31:00 EST 1997
Article: 182871 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: weatherguarding interior ply?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 21:26:23 GMT
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Hi Gang

My wife asked me to make a birdhouse for her to use indoors. After the 
project was completed, she liked it so much that she now wants to put it 
in the yard near the garden. Is there a wood preservative that will 
enable the birdhouse to last for a while outdoors (not exterior ply)? 
Will it change the painted colors on the project -- prefer one that 
won't. All advice will be appreciated (except of course, that I make the 
next one out of exterior ply :) .

Thanks
Ed



From gsinos@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:01 EST 1997
Article: 182872 of rec.woodworking
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From: gsinos@worldnet.att.net (George Sinos)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Add-on router depth knobs
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 22:30:13 GMT
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The accessory router depth adjustment knobs are hard to turn for a
reason.  Examine the nut.  It's probably made of material simliar to
that used in lock nuts.  I believe they chose that material so that
the adjustment wouldn't change from router vibration.

GS

---------------------------------
     George Sinos
     gsinos@worldnet.att.net
---------------------------------


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:02 EST 1997
Article: 182873 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 22:41:16 GMT
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*stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev) wrote:


;All of us guys using asterisks, 'remove this to replys' etc are
;getting nowhere. Got an offer today from a guy who admitted to
;pulling my address off this group. I was vainly hoping that these
;scum sucking gutter-snipes had some program or something that would
;pull off addresses in batches. But now I see that these guys read 
;thru articles and take the time to get our addresses correct.
;Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5 unwanted offers
;a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a day.
;Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short
;of going totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.

;stev

;stev@ix.netcom.com

I am experiencing the same ,and posted the following into Mindspring
95 users . Is there an Email program that has a simple return to
sender button ? 
I got a reply from http://www.compulink.co.uk/~net-services/spam it is
a free program and comes in different levels ,according to how much
discouragement you want to dish out.As far as I know the company
offers web security programsand is on the up and up . 
        mjh







From offsetjig@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:02 EST 1997
Article: 182874 of rec.woodworking
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From: offsetjig@aol.com (OffsetJig)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Updating front door
Date: 8 Feb 1997 22:40:32 GMT
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Looking for advise to seperate the rails and stiles of a front door. I
want to replace the raised panels with glass to lighten up the foyer area.
Any suggestions?


From rouleau@eznet.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:03 EST 1997
Article: 182875 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rouleau@eznet.net (Jon A Rouleau)
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Message-ID: <32fd0c10.8883239@news.eznet.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 23:29:35 GMT
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On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 16:35:20 -0600, "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
wrote:

>Ok, so I'm a newbie (as you may have seen from other posts...)  Should I
>get the ShopNotes backissues for $80?
>why not check the index and get the copies that interrest you 
>===========================================================================
>Michael R. Dow
>Independent Excel Representative
>RTD, Austin, TX
>
>Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
>be charged a $100 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
>to me - consider this an official notice:
>
>"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
>meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),
>it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment.
>By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
>is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
>whichever is greater, for each violation."
>
>for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm
>




From gsinos@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:04 EST 1997
Article: 182876 of rec.woodworking
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From: gsinos@worldnet.att.net (George Sinos)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 22:30:16 GMT
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Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
thousand feet?

GS
 -------

giese012@maroon.tc.umn.edu (Neil asked-for-it Gieselman) wrote:

>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed boards.
>....(snip)....
>(real address is bmackin  at  netins.net)

---------------------------------
     George Sinos
     gsinos@worldnet.att.net
---------------------------------


From woodwork@chattanooga.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:05 EST 1997
Article: 182877 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry <woodwork@chattanooga.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:30:25 -0500
Organization: Chattanooga Online!
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jeanne@neca.com wrote:
> 
> Tom Ellis wrote:
> >
> > davem@cftnet.com (Dave) wrote:
> >
> > >Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> > >HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> > >over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> >
> > You're seeing re-runs of the very first shows....ShopSmith, Sears RAS,
> > etc.
> >
> > -Tom Ellis
> 
> Sorry to sound dense, but what is HGTV?  Is is some sort of cable
> channel?  I still watch Norm on PBS.
HGTV is Home and Garden Television based in Knoxville, TN.  It is cable
or satellite.


From Woody_VanNote@msn.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:06 EST 1997
Article: 182878 of rec.woodworking
From: Woody_VanNote@msn.com (Kaywood Van Note)
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: 8 Feb 97 22:37:48 -0800
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CMT Tools, located in Oldsmar Florida, a suburb of Tampa is the 
original CMT in this country. CMT Tools recently started to 
manufacture their own router bits in this country instead of 
importing them from an Italian company. The Italian company has now 
opened a sales office in NC and are calling themselves CMT-USA and 
advertising heavily in woodworking magazines. There is currently a 
lot of litigation going on over the use of the name and the orange 
coating on the router bits.
To answer your questions, IMO CMT Tools in Oldsmar Florida is the 
"real" CMT. I have bought many items from CMT Tools over the last few 
years and have never had a problem. I've been told by others that CMT 
Tools service is impeccable.
By the way, I am not employed or connected with either company in any way.

Woody


From bonner@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:07 EST 1997
Article: 182879 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Phil Bonner" <bonner@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:10:19 GMT
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After using various ready-made brackets for saw horses which were
invariably wobbly, I built two pairs of sawhorses from plans in Woodsmith
issue #50.  One set was the standard 31" height and the other around 19"
high - just about the height of the crook in my knee for general cut off
work,  for use as a base for an assembly and finishing platform and for
standing on to do ceiling work around the house.  These saw horses have
compound angled/splayed 2 x4" legs notched into top beams which are 2x6"
laying flat. 

Woodsmith provides excellent plans and ww tips. Compound angles make them
more complicated to build but the design makes them rock steady.  I prefer
the flat 2 x 6" beams versus 2x beams on-edge because of better, flat,  2x6
clamping surface to which I can attach workpieces.  On the other hand,  2x
beams on-edge have the advantage that you have more meat to spare when you
inevitably foul-up and cut into the saw horse beam when using them to
support cut off or sheet goods cuts.

  Woodsmith #David Mackenzie <dmacken@cybergate.com> wrote in article
<32FCAF06.6795@cybergate.com>...
: If steve is still reading along here I will fax you these plans if I
: recive them from Mario in Buffalo. Please Email me a fax number or Snail
: mail address.
: 
: David M.
: 


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:08 EST 1997
Article: 182880 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 8 Feb 1997 20:52:25 GMT
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What's getting even more insidious is they're [posting to the NG!!


From acroii@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:08 EST 1997
Article: 182881 of rec.woodworking
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From: acroii@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Casket plans
Date: 8 Feb 1997 23:39:57 GMT
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Many have made jokes on this subject.  I don't think that it's that morbid
of a project and have considered it, too.  I had a little more in mind
though than a pine box.  If I can wade through the comic responses maybe
someone will have some good ideas to share.

Will have to keep the project secret from my wife. She'd probably kill me!

Regards,

Tom D


From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:09 EST 1997
Article: 182882 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Square checking was Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:34:11 GMT
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{Rmv-to-reply!}anaximander@geocities.com (Mike Huber) wrote:

>Friznitx rec.woodworking ak Wed, 05 Feb 1997 13:52:57 GMT farblik
>maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)}

>> Hard to have any respect for any items from China when you have
>> something stamped "Made in Hcina". I have a small, cheap square that
>> says just that. Makes you wonder how square it is. You get good and
>> bad from every country.

>My grandfather told me how:

>Takest thou a board, being sure that one edge be truly straight.
>Scribest thou ain line, as square to that straight edge as thy square
>may make it.
>Flip thou thine square,  scribing another line, also as square as thy
>square may be, yet the other way, at the same place on the board.
>Thus shall the lines form an angle, may it be a small one, for it is
>twice the error of your square, yet if the edge of the board is not
>straight, the test will not be true.

Thanks for the tip however my point was more to evaluating overall
quality control when the easy things are wrong, something like judging
a book by its cover (when the title on the cover isn't spelled right).

About the square from Hcina, I let the kids have it to play with.

Mike Rainville




From barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:31:11 EST 1997
Article: 182883 of rec.woodworking
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From: barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mounting Vices: help with Jorgensen 10"
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 23:53:00 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona
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Reply-To: barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU
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In article <Pine.A32.3.95.970207224548.45107B-100000@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu>, Andrew Barss <barss@U.Arizona.EDU> writes:
>
>
>Calling the Vice Squad. 
>
>
>I just completed a large workbench, a large (in all senses)
>improvement over the Workmate I've used in the past.  I bought a
>10" Jorgensen vise (their larger model), to mount on it, and
>can't seem to get the screw mechanism mounted right.  The
>directions call for sliding the "collar" -- the cast-iron tube
>that engages the threads on the screw rod -- onto the threaded
>rod, with the end marked "front end" toward the front, and
>oriented up.  I did this.  When I try to tighten the vise, it
>won't engage.  If I reach underneath and pull the collar down, it
>threads will begin to catch those of the threaded rod, then they
>slip.  
>
>The threads seem to be in fine condition, and I suspect I'm just
>missing some simple trick. 

Yes, you are, you dim-witted, slow-brained, unobservant, unmechanical doofus.
If you'd bothered to think about how the vise was constructed for
even ONE minute, ya   ziphead, you'd realize that the collar is supposed
to go INSIDE the bottom casting, not behind it!  Sheesh! You had
to go crying and whining to the usenet, didn't you?  What's next -- which
way you sit in the front seat of the car ("Hey, the steering
wheel keeps hitting me in the back!")?  


	-- Andrew (who is grateful to Paddy O'Deen for his
very prompt help in this matter, and who is rather pleased to
be able to take the original poster to task for being even
more unmechanical than usual). 





 Any Jorgensen owners out there care
>to help the clueless me?
>
>	--, Andrew Barss
>


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:12 EST 1997
Article: 182884 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Square checking was Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 00:24:45 GMT
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How is your spelling in Chinese?


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:12 EST 1997
Article: 182885 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: 9 Feb 1997 01:02:03 GMT
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To which CMT are you referring?

CMT USA, Greensboro, North Carolina imports the Italian made bits. They do
not have an 800 number. Their number is 910-854-0201. You can FAX them for
a catalog at 1-800-268-9778. 

CMT TOOLS, Oldsmar, Florida was the original CMT, but quit importing and
started making their own bits. They are at 1-800-531-5559.

I have some of the early Italian and some of the American made and like
them all.
-- 
Best -- Frank



From philbaby@prostar.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:13 EST 1997
Article: 182886 of rec.woodworking
From: "Phil Anderson" <philbaby@prostar.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting Vices: help with Jorgensen 10"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Andrew,

I have a similar model from Craftsman.  I've had it for about twenty years
and have experience (I think) what you are describing.  I really feel it
has to do with how level the vise sits.  Mine worked fine for a while and
then quit engaging.  I took it all apart to find the problem, but
everything looked fine.  I finally ended up grinding some of the metal off
one side of the nut so it could fall into place more easily.  This worked
for a long time, until I moved and set up my workbench again.  Now, it
doesn't work anymore.  If I jiggle the front of the vise while turning the
handle (a neat trick), then the nut will sometimes engage.  If that works
for you, I'm sure it's the same problem.  I really think it is just a poor
design.  The more expensive vises (Record) with the release lever work much
better.  What I don't like about those is, you almost have to have three
hands, one to hold your work and two to close the vise.  If that is not so,
would someone please respond to this and tell me you can release this lever
and close the vise with the same hand.  I've only tried them in stores and
they are not mounted so it is difficult to tell if you need one or two
hands.
Hope this answers your question, Andrew, but you probably won't like it.

Phil

Andrew Barss <barss@U.Arizona.EDU> wrote in article
<Pine.A32.3.95.970207224548.45107B-100000@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu>...
> 
> 
> Calling the Vice Squad. 
> 
> 
> I just completed a large workbench, a large (in all senses)
> improvement over the Workmate I've used in the past.  I bought a
> 10" Jorgensen vise (their larger model), to mount on it, and
> can't seem to get the screw mechanism mounted right.  The
> directions call for sliding the "collar" -- the cast-iron tube
> that engages the threads on the screw rod -- onto the threaded
> rod, with the end marked "front end" toward the front, and
> oriented up.  I did this.  When I try to tighten the vise, it
> won't engage.  If I reach underneath and pull the collar down, it
> threads will begin to catch those of the threaded rod, then they
> slip.  
> 
> The threads seem to be in fine condition, and I suspect I'm just
> missing some simple trick.  Any Jorgensen owners out there care
> to help the clueless me?
> 
> 	--, Andrew Barss
> 
> 


From jburkhol@imperium.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:14 EST 1997
Article: 182887 of rec.woodworking
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From: jburkhol@imperium.net (James Burkholder)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith 5 ??
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 17:02:58 -0500
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In article <19970208185101.NAA28252@ladder01.news.aol.com>, acroii@aol.com
wrote:

> Just attended their demo at a local mall.  
> 
> The fit & finish looked good, and it ran very smooth.
> The table tilts for miters (table saw) which may be a pain for larger
> panels.


I've had a shopsmith for some years, but don't really do that much work
with it.  I have found that it functions well as the drill press,
horizontal boring function, sander, but don't find the saw very good.  
The table is too small...even with the extension thing at the end of the
machine.  The fence system really requires enormous care.   One must
measure front and back, and essentially resquare the thing every time you
change positions.  

I'm in the process of buying a table saw because I don't think the
Shopsmith really cuts it.   I'll certainly keep it for its other
functions.


From abacab@nb.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:31:15 EST 1997
Article: 182888 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Abacab" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need repair advice- cheap ITC table saw
Date: 9 Feb 1997 00:27:02 GMT
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Does anyone know anything about ITC (International Tool Company) power
tools, or which other brands may be built by the same people.

I have, please forgive me, a cheap Japanese table saw.  The main cast unit,
called a trunnion I believe, has gears cast directly in it in which the
worm gear from the blade height adjuster meshes.  The spring pin, which
holds the worm gear in place, had worked out and ground out a great deal of
the teeth from this main cast piece, causing excessive play and inaccurate
height adjustment.

I need to find a source that can either provide a replacement piece, or
that can reteeth my existing one.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,

Dan Hamill
Atlantic Canada

P.S.  Anyone have a good used Delta or General table saw for sale? :-)


From P243C@metrolink.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:16 EST 1997
Article: 182889 of rec.woodworking
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There are excellent carbide tipped blades made for brush cutting.  The 
best have a tip that will not come off under quite heavy usage.  Be 
carefull.



From ted6159@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:17 EST 1997
Article: 182890 of rec.woodworking
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From: ted6159@aol.com (Ted6159)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brad Nailer decision??
Date: 9 Feb 1997 01:11:36 GMT
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I have a PC-bn200 and am VERY pleased with it.  My father has a senco that
cost $300 plus and I think the pc is as good.


From jdcohen+@andrew.cmu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:31:18 EST 1997
Article: 182891 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jonathan D Cohen <jdcohen+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veritas Router Table
Date: Sat,  8 Feb 1997 18:33:36 -0500
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 8-Feb-97 Re: Veritas Router Table
by SLIPPOY@aol.com 
> I've got my Veritas mounted on my TS extension and it works well.  Only
> problem is I was using a 1" pattern cutting bit and when it hit the piece
> of maple I was working on it kicked back, causing the router, a Freud, to
> come out of the mountings on the table, with the bit scoring the table. 
> Called Lee Valley who replaced the table and the bit which wasn't even
> theirs.  Installed new table and bit into router, hand tightened
> everything down as tight as I could and very cautiously fed same piece of
> maple into bit.  It kicked back again, router went flying and bit rotored
> straight up in the air and struck me in the chest.  By some miracle I
> wasn't hurt, but it scared hell out of me.  Lee Valley gain replaced the
> table and this time I got a 1/2" x1" bit.  No problems since, but I get
> nervous everytime I feed wood into the router.  
> Anybody else have a bad experience with the table?

I also have the Veritas ourter table, with a Ryobi 600E mounted in it. 
The only problem I have encountered so far is on one occasion, when I
was removing a bit (collet-lock depressed, turning wrench), the router
itself twisted.  This made me nervous, especially having heard about
Slippoy's early experience.  I have not have not had the router come out
during use, however I haven't put it under any heavy load.

I recently called Lee Valley about another matter, and received a return
call from Robin Lee.  While I had him on the phone, I told him about my
experience with the router table, and what I'd read of Slippoy's.  He
was concerned, but felt that this could be solved by placing some tape
between the router and the table, to produce additional friction and
thereby reduce slippage.  He indicated that they are now actually
selling some vinyl tape for such applications, said he would send me
some for free, and that he'd talk to his staff about including some with
all new tables sold.  For those of you out there who have the table, and
are concerned, I'm sure they will send you some as well (though masking
tape or, better still, double-sided carpet tape may work just as well). 
I was impressed by Robin's attentiveness and concern.  I hope his
suggested solution works, as I really like the table, and would be
disappointed if it turns out not to be completely safe.

jc 


From fphowell@earthlink.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:19 EST 1997
Article: 182892 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 12inch planer any recomendations !
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:41:21 -0800
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Brian wrote:
> 
> I want to get a planer ,but I din't know which one to buy
> 
> Brian

I have had the Delta 22-540 for a year now and would recommend it. I
have planned Maple, Oak, Cherry and Red Wood. From the posts I have seen
in this group I have yet to see a complaint about any planners with the
exception of a Powematic 15" about a year ago. One of my William Alden
catalogs has the 22-540 priced at $329.79 with a disclaimer of, "limited
to stock on hand". Also same catalog has Jet JWP-12 planer on sale for
$304.99 after Jet rebate.

Frank Howell


From jlhargr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:19 EST 1997
Article: 182893 of rec.woodworking
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From: jlhargr@aol.com (JLHargr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: looking for a good finishing nailer for around $ 250.00 --- any suggestions??
Date: 9 Feb 1997 01:56:10 GMT
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Scott,

We have the Airy 16 gauge, Model # escapes me at the moment but if you're
interested I can look---e-mail  me.  It takes brads from 3/4" to 2" and
all in all I'm pretty happy with it for hobby work.  The only complaint 
is that with the 2" brads the brad is prone to find the easiest way out
rather than nailing straight and sometimes comes out.  If I were doing it
again I think I'd go with a 15 gauge model and the PC looks pretty good
(they weren't making a nail gun when we bought this one.  Whatever you buy
it is ever so much more convenient to shoot a brad than to try to hold
everything together and aligned while pounding a nail.

Regards,
Red


From paulzjoh@mtnhome.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:20 EST 1997
Article: 182894 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Johnson <paulzjoh@mtnhome.com>
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Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
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ALYSONSDAD wrote:
> 
> > > I will soon be buying my first table saw. 
Remember weight problems, Truckdrivers don't help a lot with 300# boxes.



From whylandj@kodak.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:21 EST 1997
Article: 182895 of rec.woodworking
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From: whylandj@kodak.com (whylandj@kodak.com)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Which dado blade
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 97 16:09:22 GMT
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I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw.  I have 
no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one to buy. 

Thx,
Jeff Whyland
Rochester, NY




From covclan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:22 EST 1997
Article: 182896 of rec.woodworking
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From: covclan@aol.com (COV CLAN)
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Subject: Re: Bosch router Dust collection
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Yes, I have one on my bosch plunge. works OK on solid woods , cant keep
up with MDF. Doesnt work with any but the largest guide bushings....


From butzi@wserv.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:23 EST 1997
Article: 182897 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 15:34:46 -0500
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Dale King wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> I'm having a frustrating time with my Sears Craftsman 10in Radial Arm
> Saw. The blade cuts but only barely. It bogs down to a stop when cutting
> anything other than a straight cut thru pine.  The starting capacitor
> was bad so I replaced it and it checks out good. There is a relay in the
> circuit and that's been replaced. I've had Sears on the phone and they
> can't figure it out. I took the motor with the starting capacitor and
> relay to a motor shop and had it bench tested and it tested good. The
> saw is about 10 years old but hasn't been used much in the last 5 years
> and wasn't used much before that. I've got a new blade, so that's not
> it. Any ideas out there? I hate to dump the thing since it looks brand
> new but I do need it to cut wood. Any help would be muchly appreciated.
> You can reply to me directly if you prefer at dking@nolansys.com.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dale King



	Does it run freely under no-load?  Might be bad bearings.

			Fred


From drjekyl2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:24 EST 1997
Article: 182898 of rec.woodworking
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From: drjekyl2@aol.com (Dr Jekyl 2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Templates for routing letters/Wood patterns
Date: 9 Feb 1997 02:04:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I recently bought a Dremel Multi-Pro with the router attachment and would
like to begin making decorative signs. I would like to find out where I
can get letter templates to route letters into the wood. Also, I would
like to find some simple patterns for cutting out signs and decorative
shapes. Please E-Mail me if you have any suggestions. Are there any
internet sites with patterns that you can download?


From firebrock@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:24 EST 1997
Article: 182899 of rec.woodworking
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From: firebrock@aol.com (FIREBROCK)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Massage Table Plan
Date: 9 Feb 1997 02:12:23 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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 I am try to find plans or basic deminsions for a portable massage table.
 It's made of wood and has small dia. cables for support. Any sugestions
 on where I might find this info. on the net would also be appreciated. 
 Thanks in advance.....
 
 Brock


From vinodudes@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:26 EST 1997
Article: 182900 of rec.woodworking
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From: vinodudes@aol.com (VINODUDES)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: finishing nailer for around $ 250.00
Date: 8 Feb 1997 23:11:22 GMT
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I bought the Penn State Industries 15 gage nailer. It is around that price
and it goes up to a 2.5" nail. It works well and I am satisfied with it.
Used for home jobs and small remodels, doors trim etc.It has an angled
magazine so you can get into tight places.  John H. 


From jrashton@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:26 EST 1997
Article: 182901 of rec.woodworking
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From: jrashton@aol.com (JRAshton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 02:28:17 GMT
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The second day I had my first table saw years ago (oh allright , it was a
shop smith) I experienced a kick back that went wizzing right past my
son's head and into the wall.  Having said that , yes saw guards are a
pain in the hinder, but years later I think it is interesting that most of
the people that have lost some part of themselves to a table saw (or
jointer or shaper,etc) have been the experienced pro's or very very
serious semi-pro hobbiests. I beleive that even though any experienced
wood worker with a lick of sense will have a heathy respect for spinning
blades, it is the comfortable familiarity with the tool thats breeds
accidents. An after market guard such as a Brett guard is wize investment.
I know many woodworkers and probably over half of them don't use guards.
And more than several are miss parts of their fingers. 

It only takes one moment of slackness or being over tired to make you wish
you had been using a blade guard . And I think allmost everone who uses
powertools on a regular basis and is really honest with themselves can
recall times when they maybe shouldn't have been using the saw. but
becuase of production requirements or just plane not thinking have done
things that could have ended up disasterous and we thank our lucky stars
it didn't end up worse than it did.  That is what blade guards are for ,
that one time in your life that you are being stupid with your power
tools.

JR


From royko@astral.magic.ca Sat Feb 15 11:31:27 EST 1997
Article: 182902 of rec.woodworking
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 1997 08:10:27 -0500
From: royko@astral.magic.ca (paul royko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Entertainment Unit
Message-ID: <royko-ya023580000602970810270001@news.magic.ca>
References: <32F4CCFC.4719@mgp.ca>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182902

In article <32F4CCFC.4719@mgp.ca>, Diane <dhayes@mgp.ca> wrote:

> Does anyone have plans or know where to get plans for Entertainment 
> Units?
> 
> Thank You

The cover story of the latest issue of American Woodworker (which I picked
up yesterday) is entertainment units. Though it doesn't give measurements
(since these vary by need), it explains how to make all of the parts and is
full of good ideas. I showed it to my wife and another project got added to
the pile. I now have no fear of getting bored through to April 2001.

-- 
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
http://www.magic.ca/~royko/olddog1.html


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:28 EST 1997
Article: 182903 of rec.woodworking
From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: When is 3/4 in. dowel not 3/4 in. dowel?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:52:00 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182903

Stev wrote:
> 
> [snipped some]
> 
> >make your on dowel plate, then make your own dowels.  Think of how
> >much money the manufatures save by making undersized products. Anybody
> >measured 3/8 ths or 1/2 in plywood lately? Also, I bought some 1 by 4
> >stock two weeks ago that was 1/32nd under sized. Get ready for the
> >next  gotcha.
> 
> This just smacks of conspiracy. You know you are right. Shave a 32nd
> off that kind of volume of wood and sell it for full price and your
> boss gives you a bonus. Uncle Bill aint in the lumber biz by any chance
> is he?
> 
> stev
> 

23/32 is standard "import metric" sized for american 3/4".

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:29 EST 1997
Article: 182904 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for News Group Split
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:15:04 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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John W. Shear wrote:
> 
> remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam Keith wrote:
> >
> > I second the motion as well! Here are some suggestions that I see;
> >
> > This group is based as rec (recreational). I see it better as an Alt. Hierarchy,
> > which follows:
> >
> > Alt.Woodworking
> > Alt.Woodworking.Carpentry
> > Alt.Woodworking.Carpentry.Trim
> > ...
> 
> Experience tells me that having all the woodworking in one newsgroup
> is most efficient.  When a person posts a question, they generally want
> exposure to as many appropriate readers as possible.
> Let's assume it were split into 10 different newsgroups.  Many people
> would subscribe to all 10 to learn as much as they can.  Easily most
> people would subscribe to at least 5 of them.  So, when someone posts
> a question, they'll post to several of the newsgroups at the same time,
> maybe all of them just to reach the most people who are interested in
> woodworking.
> 
> So, if I am subscribed to all 10, I gotta read the persons posting
> 10 times - one for each subscribed group.  Then there's the stupid
> people blasting junk postings (advertising, get-rich-quick schemes,
> etc.) to all newsgroups.  I'd see that junk 10 times - once for each
> newsgroups.
> 
> I'm only a weekend woodworker, but am a full-time Unix Systems
> Administrator and have administered news servers.  Trust me when I
> say you will not reduce the amount of things that don't interest you.
> You will only duplicate them in multiple places.
> 
> Now, back to the fun stuff...
> --
> John Shear              Cray Research, A Silicon Graphics Company
> jshear@cray.com         Chippewa Falls, WI


Keep the group as it is. I agree that I do not want to read the same 
post in several different groups.


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:30 EST 1997
Article: 182905 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet 1HP or 2HP Dust collector
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 03:02:14 GMT
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Jack..... 

You know better than to make generalization like that....there are
some terrificly efficient motors that pull 16 amps...

Without measuring the HP at the spindle how can you tell the
difference?


On Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:08:05 -0500, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
wrote:

>Explodey2 wrote:
>> 
>> I just got the DC650 1 hp. It has no problem with TS, 12" planer or
>> jointer. Has better specs than other 1 hp units. Higher static pressure
>> and motor is probably underated (it is rated at 16amps - high for only 1
>> hp). I got mine at a show new w/ rebate for $195
>
>Not to beat a dead horse but 16 amps @ 1HP is not an indication of the
>motor being overrated. It's an indication that the motor is not very
>efficient.
>
>-Jaz
>
>-- 
>> 
>> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
>> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
>> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
  guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

***********************************************************


From colinml@rt66.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:31 EST 1997
Article: 182906 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!198.59.162.1!news.rt66.com!not-for-mail
From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 18:45:47 -0700
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Michael Rainville wrote:
<snip>
> 
> I am not lobbying against accuracy but there are limits, especially
> when working with wood. Seems that things should be judged on the
> results you are getting not by the reading on a dial. Again, is it
> invasion of the machinists and engineers or am I out of touch?
> 


Hi Mike,
I have to agree with what you're saying here. 
When I was in school my instructors frowned every time 
I pulled out a measuring device.  
They quickly proved to me that with
every tool there is a way to test accuracy with the tool running, by
using sample pieces.  My instructor's biggest pet peeve was people
using a try square to set the miter gauge at 90 degrees.  "That,"
he'd say, "ain't the way it's done."
-Colin


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:32 EST 1997
Article: 182907 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 15" Planer Recommendation
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:58:02 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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Ralph Hybels wrote:
> 
> Downsides of the Grizzly:  motor on top.  It's better to have it below
> the tables -- supposedly less vibration and definitely allows using
> rollers on top to hold boards and pass them back and forth.  Second
> poss. downside is that others at least advertise stronger motors (3
> horse vs. 2, but that may not mean much).
> 
> Keep in mind that 15" planers are a bear to move -- they really do weigh
> about 500 pounds and are awkward to get four guys around.
> 
> Ralph
> 
> Karen Sprinkle wrote:
> >
> > So, I've follow this group pretty regularly and noticed there is
> > (almost) always a thread going about tablesaws or portable planers --
> > but what about stationary planers ?? I'm close to deciding on the 15"
> > Grizzley, but was curious about what the rest of you think. Some of
> > you must have something bigger than a portable....
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Brent

I have had the 20" for about three years.  Absolutely no problems with 
it.  Further there have been a lot of comments about snipe with planers.  
I have a 12" of a different brand and have had it for almost 10 years.  
Never could get the snipe out of it.  Unless you want commercial and 
want to spend $5000 up the Grizzly is an excellent choice.  (I don't 
work for them).  While trying to decide which brand to get I talked to 
several people.  I have three friends who have the 15" and two of them 
are professional woodworkers, none would even dream of parting with 
their 15" Grizzly.  I did decide for the money the 20" was the best buy 
IMHO.

Roger


From tanker@nh.ultranet.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:33 EST 1997
Article: 182908 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tankerjock <tanker@nh.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for plans
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 21:44:08 -0500
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I'm looking for plans to build a bunk bed for my two young sons.  Any 
ideas on where to look would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian


From bfields@mis.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:34 EST 1997
Article: 182910 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bryan John Fields" <bfields@mis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Can I get some help with my Makita drill
Date: 8 Feb 1997 04:14:59 GMT
Organization: Mikrotec Internet Services, Inc. (MISNet)
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182910

Can some one please help me.  I have a Makita 9.6v rechargable 3/8 drill.
I have had this drill for some time.  I bought it before keyless chucks
became
popular.  I have worn out the chuck and you like to replace it with a
keyless
chuck.  I ordered one from a discount mail order company and found out that
it came without instruction on how to remove the old chuck.  Can you please
me with information on how to remove the old chuck and install the new one.

Thanks in advance.


From thedart@mcs.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:35 EST 1997
Article: 182911 of rec.woodworking
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From: thedart@mcs.com (DJV)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tung on Walnut = Walnut stain + PolyU on Birch plywood??
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 03:11:22 GMT
Organization: MCSNet Services
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OK...I've been reading here and presume that the best finish for solid
Walnut is a Tung oil finish to bring out the natural texture of the
wood.  Fine and dandy.  

Now, the main construction material on my cabinetry is Birch.  I'm
using the walnut only on the face.  So, I'd like to get the finish on
the plywood to be nearly equivalent to the finish on the face
material.  I plan to use Minwax "Dark Walnut" stain.  I'd like to get
a sheen on the entire product and hope to use PolyU.

So....do I apply PolyU over the Tung oil as well?? or do I *not* put
poly anywhere?

Any thoughts are welcome.
Jeff



From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:36 EST 1997
Article: 182912 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 03:07:19 GMT
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You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
.95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 

Alan

On Thu, 06 Feb 1997 18:45:01 -0600, umkula00@cc.umanitoba.ca (Rich
Kula) wrote:

>I am doing a wire-upgrade in my workshop outside. I have just built a new
>workbench and it is a pain in the butt trying to always bend down and
>crawling over this and that..Word to the WISE: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENUFF
>OUTLETTS!!!!
>
>   Anyways, what is the rule of thumb with how many outlets one can put on
>a 15 or 20 amp breaker? Does the code stipulate the maximum amount of
>outlets one can put on the aforementioned breaker setup? Ideally, I would
>like to put about 7 on each sub-panel breaker?
>
>   Any feedback would sure be appreciated.
>
>   TIA ,
>
>   Rich

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
  guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

***********************************************************


From hammer9@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:37 EST 1997
Article: 182913 of rec.woodworking
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From: hammer9@aol.com (Hammer9)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 9 Feb 1997 01:41:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Stev wrote:

>  I was vainly hoping that these scum sucking gutter-snipes had some
> program or something that would pull off addresses in batches. But now I
> see that these guys read thru articles and take the time to get our
> addresses correct. Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5
> unwanted offers a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a
day.
> Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short of going
> totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.

Well, one of the few positives I can say about AOL is that they are
actively blocking spam and seem to be getting better at it. I recently
discovered that I can do domain blocking via my mail controls and that
seems to have taken care of the last of the spammers that were managing to
get through to my account. AOL recently prevailed in litigation against
cyberpromo and can continue to offer a mail control service to members.
They give one the choice of using the mail blocking or not - as if anyone
would be desperate enough for email that they would take it from spammers.
It's been blissfully quiet for a while.  OTOH I haven't been able to get
online as easily as I used to ;-)

***************
Hammer9@aol.com


From covclan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:38 EST 1997
Article: 182914 of rec.woodworking
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From: covclan@aol.com (COV CLAN)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: paper backed veneer
Date: 9 Feb 1997 03:01:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Beware! The paper backed veneer available here localy can only be applied
with
contact cement . I tried yellow glue and epoxy...both peeled, manufacturer
confirmed this. One product , SANDPLY 4 , supposedly can be glued with
yellow...havent tried it yet.


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:39 EST 1997
Article: 182915 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Can I get some help with my Makita drill
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 21:17:59 -0600
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Chuck removal can vary from unit to unit, however all I've seen go like
this:

1).	There is a set screw deep within the jaws of the original chuck, you
may
	need a torx driver to remove it. It has reverse threads so you'll need to
	turn it clockwise to remove it.

2).	Fasten a very large allen wrench (or similar) into the jaws of the old
	chuck, place it on a bench and whack the chuck loose using the
	wrench as the "target". This is done "normally", counter-clockwise.

3).	Once loose, remove and install new chuck. I don't know how to torque
	it on as the factory does, I just get it as tight as the motor gears will
	allow and re-fasten the set screw.

> "Bryan John Fields" <bfields@mis.net> wrote in article
<01bc1636$e54ff980$e82e1cce@home.mis.net>...
> Can some one please help me.  I have a Makita 9.6v rechargable 3/8
drill.
> I have had this drill for some time.  I bought it before keyless chucks
> became
> popular.  I have worn out the chuck and you like to replace it with a
> keyless
> chuck.  I ordered one from a discount mail order company and found out
that
> it came without instruction on how to remove the old chuck.  Can you
please
> me with information on how to remove the old chuck and install the new
one.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:39 EST 1997
Article: 182916 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com (RBowles96)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi vs Skil?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 03:25:48 GMT
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Doug, don't feel like you have to apologize!  I bought a Skil belt sander
a couple of years ago.  Used it hand held and clamped upside down.  When
the switch failed it took 6 months for the tool shop/repair shop to get a
replacement switch.  "That is why we don't carry Skil" was the comment.  I
probably will not repeat with the Skil label.


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:40 EST 1997
Article: 182917 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mounting Vices: help with Jorgensen 10"
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:18:28 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
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Phil Anderson wrote:

snip above
> The more expensive vises (Record) with the release lever work much
> better.  What I don't like about those is, you almost have to have three
> hands, one to hold your work and two to close the vise.  If that is not so,
> would someone please respond to this and tell me you can release this lever
> and close the vise with the same hand.  I've only tried them in stores and
> they are not mounted so it is difficult to tell if you need one or two
> hands.
> Hope this answers your question, Andrew, but you probably won't like it.
> 
> Phil

and snip below

Actually, I think Record has done a good job of locating and shaping the
release lever, so that you can disengage to lever with a fore finger
while holding the vise handle and pushing or pulling as desired. And of
course, for closing you don't need to touch the lever since the threads
automatically disengage. So, open the vise more than the work piece,
then put the piece in, and simply push on the jaw to close. I like the
Record, and also the imported copies such as Grizzly sells.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From cfp@sccoast.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:41 EST 1997
Article: 182918 of rec.woodworking
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From: Melvyn Cooper <cfp@sccoast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith 5 ??
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:48:30 -0500
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acroii@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Just attended their demo at a local mall.  Twenty years ago I was on their
> mailing list, but couldn't afford one.  Now I've purchased many stand
> alone tools that do most of the functions the Shopsmith does.  For those
> with space limitations, I would take a serious look at it.  The setup
> times in switching from one function to another is really negligible.
> Especially if you take the time to make handy storage racks for the
> accessories.
> 
> Here are some random observations:
> The fit & finish looked good, and it ran very smooth.
> The table tilts for miters (table saw) which may be a pain for larger
> panels.
> The horizontal boring capabilities are great & would be hard toduplicate
> without spending a lot of $.
> Use it for 30 days without laying out a penny.  They even pay return
> freight if you decide not to keep it.
> They throw in a couple of major accessories if you order at the dog & pony
> show.  I would either seek out a show near you or talk long and hard for
> the same deal direct.
> Sometimes there are a couple of ads in the classified section of the local
> newspaper for used ones.
> Dust collection system ran quiet enough to carry on a conversation next to
> it.
> 
> Tom D.
Having experienced a shopsmith, I can tell you that those guy's that do
the demonstrations are not far short of being magicians.Mel


From cfp@sccoast.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:42 EST 1997
Article: 182919 of rec.woodworking
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From: Melvyn Cooper <cfp@sccoast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: Robland X31
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:52:11 -0500
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5 years new 3 new motors and control panel. All accessories. Small table
$3,000.00 FOB SC.


From dmacken@cybergate.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:43 EST 1997
Article: 182920 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Mackenzie <dmacken@cybergate.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:15:57 -0800
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I find that when I am working on my small novice projects, I have to
keep telling myself "This ain't rocket science".

David M.
Making some bird feeders to sell.


From jlevin@paonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:44 EST 1997
Article: 182921 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mounting Vices: help with Jorgensen 10"
From: jlevin@paonline.com (John Levin)
Organization: Foobie Union
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In article <009AF969.01722028@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU>, 
barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU says...
[Polite, possibly naive request for help with vice installation]
>

[Extremely rude (possibly in jest) reply castigating previous poster for not 
being as smart as replier, giving solution that doesn't seem as obvious to me 
as it does to the replier because I don't have the blurfl under discussion so 
that neither I nor anyone else similarly unenlightened can judge the actual 
brilliance of the reply or the obviousness of the solution to the question]


There's no call for that kind of flamage. Save it for the MAKE MOANIE$$ FAST 
turkeys.



From bb699@yfn.ysu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:31:44 EST 1997
Article: 182922 of rec.woodworking
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From: bb699@yfn.ysu.edu (Ralph C. Bertanzetti)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TOH Kitchen Cabinets
Date: 9 Feb 1997 03:54:52 GMT
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This Old House, on a couple of the "old house" makeovers has
used kitchen cabinets from a company listed in the credits as
"Kennebec". They are "Shaker" type construction. Anyone know
where this company is located or have a mailing address to
send for a catalog/price list??

E-mail to bb699@YFN.YSU.EDU

Thanks.
-- 
m


From DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net Sat Feb 15 11:31:45 EST 1997
Article: 182923 of rec.woodworking
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From: DNPIBEL <DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi vs Skil?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 16:43:29 -0800
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To: Kenneth Kao <kkao@morgan.ucs.mun.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182923

Kenneth Kao wrote:
>fixed Ryobi, 1.75 hp and the other is a Skil plunge model, also 1.75 hp.
> 
> Which one should I get?
> 
> Any and all advice welcome with thanks.

I bought a Skil 1823 about 18 mos. ago, and thought it was pretty keen. 
Have used it for projects similar to the ones you mention, and have had 
no problems with it. 

My loving wife wanted to get me something extravagant for Christmas and, 
at my suggestion, bought me a Freud 2000E. By comparison, the Skil is a 
toy, but, realistically, the Freud is more than I need right now.

Have no experience with Ryobi routers. I have Ryobi 3/8 drill and 12V 
cordless, the latter of which is a real peach of a machine.

For info on plunge vs. fixed-base, check out Deja News -- there are 
bunches of articles from this NG. My simpleminded analytic is this: I 
haven't figured out what a fixed base will do that a plunge won't, but 
you just can't plunge with a fixed base. Actually, there's this: the Skil 
is pretty tough to adjust finely; the Freud solves that problem with an 
adjustment knob. If the Ryobi you're looking at has that feature, I'd 
probably take it over the Skil just based on that.

I suspect I am identifying myself as a fool and an amateur by admitting 
on this NG to even buying something labeled "Skil," but, hey, folks, I'm 
a fool and an amateur.

Good luck.

Doug


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:46 EST 1997
Article: 182924 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:01:15 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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Scott Schreiber wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 06 Feb 97 11:28:22 GMT, davem@cftnet.com (Dave) wrote:
> 
> >Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> >
> 
> I haven't seen the HGTV show...has he gone back to using his Shopsmith
> Mark V?

Just saw a show this week where he was using his Shopsmith with a lathe 
duplicator.
rk


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:47 EST 1997
Article: 182925 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Glennon <mtcowboy@marsweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop Smith
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 12:11:45 -0800
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182925

Yes they do, since I can't remember the exact location other then it is 
through AOL, take a look at the SS users list server page at 
http://www.cris.com/~jwirtz/ssug.

The page will point you to just about everything there is on shopsmith on 
the web.

Mike G.

EClark2918 wrote:
> 
> I would like to know if Shop Smith has a web page on internet.  Anyone
> know?


From booter@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:48 EST 1997
Article: 182926 of rec.woodworking
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From: booter@ix.netcom.com(Brian)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Yankee Workshop Time
Date: 9 Feb 1997 04:22:11 GMT
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Does anyone know what day and time this show comes on in the Atlanta
Ga. area.


Thanks,

Brian


From mscarce100@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:49 EST 1997
Article: 182927 of rec.woodworking
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From: mscarce100@aol.com (MScarce100)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood in Washington
Date: 9 Feb 1997 04:31:43 GMT
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I recently moved to Yakima Wa. and am looking for a local source of rough
hardwood. Thanks in advance


From gmayer@uconect.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:50 EST 1997
Article: 182928 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gerald Mayer <gmayer@uconect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
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> Paul Ephron wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
> >so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
> >drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
> >holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
> >plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
> >stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
> >hand drill. Thanks for any advice.

Try using a brad point drill instead of a twist drill, and drill the
holes in the large piece of plywood before you cut it into 1x2 inch
pieces.  You also need to have a scrap block under the plywood at the
hole location to prevent tearout when the bit breaks through.

Gerald


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:51 EST 1997
Article: 182929 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 04:45:07 GMT
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On 3 Feb 1997 20:20:11 GMT, "Sledge Riprock" <faldar@earthlink.net>
wrote:


>Cherry patinas over time with exposure to UV light. 
>It's only a surface feature, not too deep.  After it's finished, it will
>continue to darken.
>

I have never gotten an answer to the question of why this is not
always the case.  I have a cherry piece that has remained unfinished
for almost 2 years, with no appreciable darkening.  Explanation?
Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From jmkather@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:52 EST 1997
Article: 182930 of rec.woodworking
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From: jmkather@aol.com (JMKather)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet 1HP or 2HP Dust collector
Date: 9 Feb 1997 05:09:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
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The one horse should be OK.

But I've had 2 Grizzley's and the jet looks the same as them.  They were
very loud and cheaply made.

I sprung for a few more bucks and bought a powermatic.  What a dream
machine.  Quiet and plenty of suck.  I'd never go back to the others.


From barss@U.Arizona.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:31:53 EST 1997
Article: 182931 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Barss <barss@U.Arizona.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mounting Vices: help with Jorgensen 10"
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 21:40:53 -0700
Organization: The University of Arizona
Lines: 48
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182931


Well, normally I'd agree.




  However, in this case the original
poster, Andrew Barss, was the same person as the flamer, Andrew
Barss. So, I felt I could take some degree of license in
castigating myself for having made a truly clunkheaded mistake,
and bothering people for advice instead of thinking through the
design of the vise.  The mistake was, I'm afraid, beyond
naive. 

	-- Andrew Barss, who feels people should refrain from 
extremely rude flamage except in special circumstances.




On 9 Feb 1997, John Levin wrote:

> In article <009AF969.01722028@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU>, 
> barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU says...
> [Polite, possibly naive request for help with vice installation]
> >
> 
> [Extremely rude (possibly in jest) reply castigating previous poster for not 
> being as smart as replier, giving solution that doesn't seem as obvious to me 
> as it does to the replier because I don't have the blurfl under discussion so 
> that neither I nor anyone else similarly unenlightened can judge the actual 
> brilliance of the reply or the obviousness of the solution to the question]
> 
> 
> There's no call for that kind of flamage. Save it for the MAKE MOANIE$$ FAST 
> turkeys.
> 
> 
> 

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
                           Andrew Barss  
  Graduate Advisor, Department of Linguistics, University of Arizona
              Keymaster, Psycholinguistics West 
           "Ah said, that's a MEMO, son!" -- Foghorn Leghorn
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>




From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:54 EST 1997
Article: 182932 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 19:21:58 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
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ANDREW BARSS wrote:
> 
> In article <32FB5AE8.7A66@amityedu.com>, Lyn <info@amityedu.com> writes:
> 
> >FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN
> 
> <asine, rude, unfunny, dork-o-rama attempt at humor
> snipped for the betterment of civilization>
> 
> DEAR LYN,
> 
> HA HAH!  GOOD WON!   I GOT ONE FER YOU:
> 
> Three reasons a lot of people think you're a jackass for posting stuff like
> that:
> 
> (1)  It's sexist and mean.
> (2)  It has nothing to do with this forum.
> (3)  It's pathetically unfunny.
> 
>         Maybe when you get to high school, you'll learn how to act in public,
> eh?  Meanwhile go study for your social studies quiz!
> 
> -- Andrew (speaking, as always, for himself, and no one else, much less
> his employer)

Actually, I thought it was extremely funny (though I have seen it
before). Furthermore, my wife thought so too, and she happens to be a
woman as well as a dog lover. I wonder if your employer thinks it was
funny.
-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:54 EST 1997
Article: 182933 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with:  Delta 10" Compound Miter Saw
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 04:58:03 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
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On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 22:07:17 -0500, William Purnell <purnell@dmv.com>
wrote:

>I recently purchased a Delta 10" compound miter saw.  I set about trying
>to get the saw setup correctly.  I squared the blade to the table, the
>blade to the fence, and the 90 and 45 degree compound angles.  However,
>when I attempt to cut a compound 45 the cuts are not perpendicular to
>the fence.  Any suggestions...   Anyone else have this problem....\

Are you clamping your stock or holding it in place with your hand?  I
assume that when you say "compound" you mean "bevel."  The saw will
tend to move the stock when cutting this way.  Clamp it and see if
that makes a difference.


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:55 EST 1997
Article: 182934 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to un-bow a board
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 05:01:11 GMT
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On 3 Feb 97 10:31:19 GMT, haubert@mbi.org wrote:

>In article <32e8dfaa.3832556@news.concentric.net> anon@anon.anon (Auctor Ignotus) writes:
>>From: anon@anon.anon (Auctor Ignotus)
>>Subject: Re: How to un-bow a board
>>Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 16:52:09 GMT
>
>>On Thu, 23 Jan 1997 14:18:48 UNDEFINED, haubert@mbi.org wrote:
>
>>(snip)
>>>
>>>>BTW, I can understand how a jointer can remove a WARP or a CUP, but
>>>>just how is it supposed to remove a BOW???
>>>
>>>I'm not sure you know what a jointer is.   It will remove a cup, bow or twist. 
>>> The term WARP is ambiguous.
>>>
>
>
>>With all due respect, sir, you are incorrect.  Warp, Cup, Bow, and
>>Twist are all technical terms with distinct definitions (I spent many
>>years in the lumber business).
>
>>A Warped board will lay flat on it's faces, but the longitudinal edges
>>will not be straight.  The board takes on a "C" shape.  A Warped board
>>is "straightened" by ripping or jointing the curved edges thereby
>>"straightening" them and also reducing the WIDTH of the board.

I have heard of this condition referred to as "crook."  Cup, bow,
twist and crook would therefore all be types of "warp."  Could it be a
difference in regional terms?



Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:56 EST 1997
Article: 182935 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ambient Air Cleaners
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:30:11 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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Gary WYSIWYG wrote:
> 
> Yeah - not a bad idea but the cost of running a 2HP dust collector to
> filter the air is a bit expensive. The cost of running one of the 'made
> for it' air cleaners is cheap enough ($0.015/hr) to run from the time
> you enter the shop until you leave. Not to mention the noise the dust
> collector makes !

The problem is that a dust collector will not pick up all the small 
particles that still get into the air.  The air cleaners were not meant 
to replace a dust collector.  For a nice clean, healthy shop both seem 
to be the way to go.

rk


From bobklein@gulf.net Sat Feb 15 11:31:57 EST 1997
Article: 182936 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Klein <bobklein@gulf.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old Glue
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 00:02:42 -0600
Organization: Robert's Antiques & Restoration
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182936

Trash it.
=========


RPierce700 wrote:
> 
> I have 2 or 3 bottles (1/2 full) of titebond glue setting in the shop that
> are thick and can't squeeze out of the bottle. They have been frozen and
> just seem dried out.
> Is there something I can do for them or are they trash?

-- 
Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL  32505   USA

bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com




From mitchell@cwo.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:58 EST 1997
Article: 182937 of rec.woodworking
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From: mitchell@cwo.com (Mitch the WoodMitch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Used Tablesaw - Need Advice
Date: 9 Feb 1997 05:58:35 GMT
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>On 4 Feb 1997 19:49:07 GMT, "Ron Picchi" <julio@dsp.com> wrote:
>
>>       I would appreciate any knowledgable advice on evaluating a 
used table saw
>>for condition and value. I've been shopping around for a high 
quality saw (
>>in the realm of Unisaw\Powermatic 66, etc.).   And while I might end 
up
>>buying a new one ($1700 to $2000), I would certainly like to save 
some
>>money and buy a  used saw in good condition. Any thoughts on Pros 
and Cons?
>> What are the key things to look at on a used saw to evaluate its
>>condition? These saws don't show up in the classifieds very often. 
The ones
>>I've seen have been in commercial use and often have 3 phase motors; 
I
>>believe I would have to convert it to a single phase  motor.  Does 
this
>>seem feasable? Has anyone got a rule of thumb ( based on sound 
reasoning,
>>of course) regarding how much one should pay for used equipment?  
Thanks in
>>advance for any help.

Ron -- I bought a used Unisaw (1950's vintage) for $250 with a single 
phase motor, about 8 years ago. It needed some cleanup and I installed 
new bearings in the motor and arbor. I also turned the commutator on 
the repulsion start-induction run motor. A lot of the saws of this 
vintage have the 1 Hp single phase R-I motors; mine has enough power 
to rip 12/4 oak, maple and some 8/4 Indian rosewood. I also sold the 
Jet-Lock fence with it, and added a Biesemeyer 40" homeshop. I figure 
I have about $650 in it, and am completely satisfied. One nice thing 
about the old Delta equipment is that many parts are still available, 
although they may be expensive. The major castings are not available, 
though, so check out these carefully before you buy.

I would be happy to respond to any specific questions about a tool you 
are looking at, if you e-mail me.

Happy hunting -- Mitch



From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:31:59 EST 1997
Article: 182938 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkers Dream Home FSBO
Date: 9 Feb 1997 06:07:36 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Where is Erie county?

I may be interested sight unseen!!  Do you have any idea what the shipping
charges, maybe UPS, would be to California??

Picnic pavilion alone would be $200K here.



From tmartin419@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:00 EST 1997
Article: 182939 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmartin419@aol.com (TMartin419)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Carba-Tec ll Mini Lathe
Date: 9 Feb 1997 06:28:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have a Penn State catalog and am planing to order the Carba-Tec Mini
Lathe with duplacating attachment. Would like some opinions on this lathe
>from  someone who has used one. I also am interested in any opinions on the
Micro-Machinist lathe in the same catalog. I only want to make small
parts, mostly pens.
          Thanks in advance for any help.
                     Terry


From rockman@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:01 EST 1997
Article: 182940 of rec.woodworking
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From: rockman@ix.netcom.com(rockman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: DeWalt 18 volt Cordless Saw
Date: 9 Feb 1997 06:53:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Hello all...

Just wondering if anybody has any experience with this unit.
I was curious if it lived up to it's claims of being able to 
cut 125 2x4's or rip 130 feet of 1/2 inch plywood, all on one 
charge. Any comments welcome. 

Thanks in advance,
Mike


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:02 EST 1997
Article: 182941 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 07:19:42 GMT
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On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 18:55:33 -0900, Roger & Jo Kempfer
<kempfer@mosquitonet.com> wrote:

>Heaven help you if you order from Harbor "Fright" and have to get a part 
>or send something back ( which you will have to pay the postage/shipping 
>both ways.  

Actually, this is not so at all if (1) they send the wrong thing, (2)
you are unsatisfied with it within 30 days of receipt, or (3) there is
a problem within the applicable warranty period.  In all these cases
they will pay return freight (or, in the case of item 1, tell you to
just keep the wrong item and send the right one).  I've bought a
number of harder-to-find specialty tools from them that work just
fine, and for one think they work pretty hard at customer
satisfaction.  Some of their tech service people are actually pretty
good with questions. I probably wouldn't buy a piece of heavy
machinery from HF tho. dcr


From native@io.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:03 EST 1997
Article: 182943 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Watson <native@io.com>
Newsgroups: austin.forsale,rec.woodworking
Subject: 10" Radial Saw For Sale
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 20:33:30 -0600
Organization: Native America
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10" B&D Radial Saw with Stand

I have a 10" Black and Decker Radial Saw that I bought around 5 years
ago.  It comes with rolling stand and documentation.  It is
a well built saw and has served me well, but I really need a table saw
to do some serious cabinet work and I don't have room for both. Will
through in 60 tooth carbide blade with the deal.  Located in South
Austin, TX.

Brian
native@io.com


From mayfilm@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:04 EST 1997
Article: 182944 of rec.woodworking
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From: mayfilm@aol.com (Mayfilm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: jointer clamps?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 07:32:51 GMT
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I saw in the Eagle America catalogue Jointer clamps. I can't afford a real
jointer right now. Does anyone have any experience with these clamps. I'm
building a table and the top needs to have jointed 5/4 red oak. I'm
wondering if these clamps do a good job on a table saw.


From dkrueger@mc.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:04 EST 1997
Article: 182945 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan Krueger <dkrueger@mc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brad Nailers ...  What size do I need?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 01:40:53 -0600
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Bill Moore wrote:
> 
> David Misevich (davem@had.horiba.com) wrote:
> : I have the 18 ga. Porter Cable 2" and I love it. You will not believe the
> : holding power of those little suckers. I even used it to hang a door the
> : other day. Solid as a rock. (Flameproof suit ready...)
> 
> I've heard that the brads are coated with something that melts upon insertion
> due to friction, and then hardens again when it's in the wood. Acts like an
> adhesive at that point, giving the brads some extra holding power.
> 
> For the record, I have an Airy 18ga that takes up to 1 9/16" brads. Love it!


Hanging doors with a 18ga brad is NOT recommended!  You should always
use a minimum of a 16ga!  The coating, while great for "pull-out"
strength, does nothing for shear strength.  Doors just endure too much
movement for a brad of that diameter.

BTW-My pick for a 2" Brad Nailer is the Bostitch BT50.  It is US made,
can bury a 2" brad into solid oak, and sells for under $200.


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:05 EST 1997
Article: 182946 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressors vs. HVLP systems
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 00:32:37 -0500
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bhayner@capital.net wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for any and all advice concerning the two items in the title. I'm
> sick of using brushes and cotton diapers and all sort of other applications to
> try and get the best finish I can. I've finallyseen the light and plan on
> moving on the wold of evenly sprayed on finishes. However, I can only choose
> one or the other because I'm not a rich man. Will a HVLP do the job well enough
> to make me forget about the advantages of a compressor. Or should I get a
> compressor with a rewgulator that will allow me to back off on the psi to give
> me the same pressure as a HVLP. Also there's the money thing to consider. I
> really don't want to spend more than $300 if I can get away with it. Any and
> all adice would be greatly appreciated.

There is so much involved in deciding between a compressor for spraying
or an HVLP system. But since you mentioned price, there is little chance
of achieving a quality finish with any system for $300 or less, unless
you don't mind doing four times the additional work to sand out the poor
quality spray you will get.

You can get a decent HVLP system for under $600 if you shop around (I
can make some suggestions, but I risk losing credibility if I hawk). 

To use compressed air, a decent gun might run $150 to $200. Then you
need a hose which could be another $25. Then you need a moisture trap to
filter out water that comes from condensation. That's an additional $25
to $40. Then you need a compressor that has the requisite cfm so that
you can power the gun enough to atomize your finish (so you don't have
to thin your finish so much that you don't get any build when you
spray). That means you need a good powerful compressor, perhaps 3hp to
5hp. That could be $300 to $500 minimum. "Bango!" as Jackie the Jokeman
says. Now you've lost your portability which means that on-site work is
now onerous.

But wait! There is an answer. And it comes in the form of the Binks Mach
1 HVLP setup. It is a conversion gun (uses regular compressed air, but
the gun has a venturi valve in the air passages which steps the air
pressure down while boosting the cfm --volume of air -- way up) that has
a specially tooled air cap that will atomize your finish at 10psi or
less (that is the true definition of HVLP). It can be powered by as
small as a 1.5hp compressor. Now you have your portability back! The
quality of the finish is beautiful. The system gives you tremendous
control and versatility, but expect to pay about $450 to $500 for the
gun, and then a minimum of $250 to $300 for the compressor, plus the
hose and filter costs. A complete package system can be purchased for
about $700 to $800. There is no control over the width of the fan, which
is about 8" to 10" (some guns from turbine units can have as wide as a
15" fan).

Some turbine units can be as quiet as an ordinary household vacuum,
which is loud but not oppressive. Compressors, while they are loading up
their tanks are quite loud, but silent when not loading (until the
loading pressure kicks in again). Turbine units use less amperage than
compressors do, which can be important when you are finishing in remote
locations (on-site). But with compressors, you can run your touch up
gun, air brush, brad nailer or other air tools, as long as the
compressor is powerful enough (in-line double-pad rubbing machines use
an awful -- as in awe inspiring or ful of awe, not the coloquialism --
amount of air, for example).

I'm sure that I left some features out, that some of my generalizations
are too broad and that some of my comparisons and contrasts may not be
accurate, but this should be a good enough exposition for you to make a
good choice.
-- 
Daniel


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:06 EST 1997
Article: 182947 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars; Am I
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:05:50 GMT
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The one shown in WW magazine being used to set up Table Saw, Planer, And
Jointer was the A-line it jig. Complete jig, dial, adaptors, video, etc is
$139. 1-800-533-6709 or Woodworker's Warehouse or many mail order houses.


From jmkather@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:07 EST 1997
Article: 182948 of rec.woodworking
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From: jmkather@aol.com (JMKather)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polishing Urethane
Date: 9 Feb 1997 05:14:42 GMT
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Here's what I've done in the past.

Make sure you have a good urethane coating first.  I treated it just like
a car finish. Let dry thoroughly.  Wet sanded the final coat with 400 then
600 3M wet/dry sandpaper.  Rub the finish with acrylic enamel type rubbing
compound using a polishing pad on the end of drill or a polishing machine.
 The finish will be like glass.

However, I haven't been able to get the finish to be a high gloss.  It
turns out to be semi-gloss.


From rgdgps@nwrain.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:08 EST 1997
Article: 182949 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgdgps@nwrain.com (DR)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears TS?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 08:30:54 GMT
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I've been reading various messages here regarding buying new TS's, but
I haven't seen anything about what is apparently a new Sears saw.

I'm in the market for a TS and  I'd just about decided on a 
Jet JWTS 10J F 1.5 HP 10" TS when I happened by Sears and saw their
(apparently) fairly new belt-drive 10" TS. I've had some variable
experience with Sears stuff, but this saw looks pretty good. They rate
it at 3 hp but I understand that they tend to overrate their power
equipment. Both the Jet and the Delta (34-444) I'd looked at had
stamped metal extentions. The Sears has cast iron. (I presume this is
a plus.) Also the fence they have on this saw looks good (not thier
old screw-down-tight model) - similar to the Jet, which felt very
good. 

I know most people like Delta, and I have nothing against it, but the
Delta saws I looked at just didn't give me the right feeling,
including the contractor's saw and models with the Unifence. I've also
read messages from people who are very happy with their Jets.

Does anyone have any experience with the Sears belt-drive TS? Am I
being naive by even considering Sears?

Thanks for any advice.

Bob Dykeman




From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:09 EST 1997
Article: 182950 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router table insert
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:02 GMT
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Or order from Woodhaven - 1.800.344.6657  and take a look see at
http://www.woodhaven.com  Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:09 EST 1997
Article: 182951 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:04 GMT
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In article <32FBE9DD.7C79@netspace.net.au>, Rod Kirby
<rodkirby@netspace.net.au> writes:

>Opinion from Downunder...
>I bought all the back issues about a year ago and was not sorry.

I also went back and bought all issues, and like "Downunder" - not
sorry-real glad.
Also have all of Woodsmith issues, though I bought those a set at a time
when the spare cash was burning holes in my pocket.  Of course I have
never tossed out an issue of any wood, DIY, or home type magazine that I
subscribe to - 10 in all!!

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:10 EST 1997
Article: 182952 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:09 GMT
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I find the bits that I have purchased from CMT Tools, Oldsmar, FL to be of
top quality.  Their attention to customer satisfaction has been
outstanding.  At about the same time my order arrives they call to see if
everything is Okay!  I have bought bits locally, including Sears, but
haven't  found them to be any where near what CMTs are.  I have not used
the other brands mentioned, but then I've only had a good quality 1/2"
plunge router for about a year.  My old 1/4" B&D is still here for some
jobs and it served/serves well, it's just  the cheep bits don't hold up.

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:12 EST 1997
Article: 182953 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:07 GMT
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In article <32FBF9A8.3E84@wysiwyg.net>, Gary WYSIWYG
<gary.hereiam@wysiwyg.net> writes:

>I've been using them for about a year. Was using Whiteside prior to
>that. CMT is far and away a better product.

>From  which source??  CMT USA, Greensboro, NC  or  CMT Tools, Oldsmar, FL?

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:13 EST 1997
Article: 182954 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Can I get some help with my Makita drill
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:11 GMT
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In article <01bc1636$e54ff980$e82e1cce@home.mis.net>, "Bryan John Fields"
<bfields@mis.net> writes:

>Can some one please help me.  I have a Makita 9.6v rechargable 3/8 drill.
>I have had this drill for some time.  I bought it before keyless chucks
>became
>popular

If it is the model as mine - 6012HD.  I replaced the old chuck just to get
away from the need for the key.  The screw holding the chuck in place was
just a slot, though that may not be standard on all.  Just back off the
screw, reverse thread and remove the old chuck.  The keyless is sure nice.

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:13 EST 1997
Article: 182955 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith Belt
Date: 9 Feb 1997 08:31:13 GMT
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Shopsmith -
>Is the company still alive, and where can I get the belts?

Alive and well!  Contact them at 1.800.543.7586 - on line at
http://members.aol.com/shpsmith  (No "o" in that Shopsmith address).

Also try your local Woodcraft Supply Corp. store (sorry guys, it's still a
great store - no matter what the name issue is)  http://www.woodcraft.com 
or 1.800.304.464.1074 for technical advice or 1.800.534.4482 for customer
service and 1.800.225.1153 for orders.   They are authorized Shopsmith
sales and service centers.

Regards, Ron



From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:32:14 EST 1997
Article: 182956 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Gorman <Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 10:20:31 +0000
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Art Mulder wrote:

~    1) The rec.ww FAQ's are at
~  	http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html
~  
~    2) ALL rec.ww discussions (Even this one) are archived at Dejanews:
~    	http://www.dejanews.com/
~  
~    2) The full Intro FAQ is at 
~  	http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

Since we have Art's full Intro FAQ pointing to the other FAQs, do we
really now need the regular, and for those of us who pay our own phone
costs, cumulatively expensive regular postings of lengthy FAQs, some
of only limited national relevance?

The good intentions and efforts of the senders are appreciated, but
if the Introductory FAQ was the only FAQ, I suggest it would be a good
idea for this to appear weekly or fortnightly.

Potentially, there are ways of facilitating the skimming and/or
filtering of lengthy lists. This could involve agreement to adopt
standardised two-word openings for classifying subjects, but these
require an experienced and consistent readership exercising a
discipline that one suspects would be difficult to achieve within a
group whose "membership" to me seems extremely mobile, and in
computing terms, not always fully conversant with the available
editing tools. There is nothing new in this, I gather that it has been
tried in other groups, but don't know how they get on.

Jeff, feeling Mr Wilsonish.

--
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:32:15 EST 1997
Article: 182957 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Gorman <Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 10:03:57 +0000
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Joe Watkins wrote:

~  I am just curious... when I submit a request for info etc. Do you
~  expect or require or appreciate a reply to your offered advice/help?
~  
~  I have asked a few newbie questions and I have gotten some good info
~  in return.  I am not sure wether or not to reply with thanks or send
~  an email to the person or persons that have generously offered their
~  two cents.  How do you all feel?

I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
reply.

Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:32:16 EST 1997
Article: 182958 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Gorman <Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 10:01:23 +0000
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Viliam Holuby wrote:

~  I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is lot =
~  of wooden garbage and sawdust.
~  Does anybody have any idea how to use it ?

I happen to have made notes on this topic, so to save everyone's time,
here is an edited summary of the uses of /sawdust/ (presumably dry
sawdust) as posted fairly recently.

Use old sawdust as a weed protector between rows then hoe it in.

Mulching rhododendrons. "Anything in the heath family, Ericaeae, is
said to love acid and would love the very acid oak sawdust. Things
that hate acid, on the other hand will keel over and die, or at least
do really poorly".  

Ideal for mixing with lawn mowings, the two together are better than
one. Grass clippings are said to be high in nitrogen, but lack carbon
which the sawdust supplies. Same with leaves, pine needles and
newspapers. (Probably will also help to keep the grass from forming a
mat and helps to let the air in).

Note from JG
Reservations were expressed about depletion of nitrogen
>from  the soil. Sawdust itself is low in nitrogen. Fungi digest the
sawdust, incorporating nitrogen from the soil into their bodies. When
the fungi die, the nitrogen is returned to the soil. A note from
"Chemistry in the Utilisation of Wood - RH Farmer - Officer-in-Charge
of the Chemistry Section of the Uk Forest Products Research Laboratory
- "nitrogen deficiency .......... becomes more apparent in the second
and third year after applying sawdust, when its decomposition becomes
more advanced". To overcome the temporary depletion, add a
high-nitrogen fertiliser to the mix.  Farmer gives the proportion of
fertiliser as about 1/2 cwt of ammonium sulphate per ton of sawdust.

"Let it age for a year in the garden", but Farmer says "it is
preferable to use material that is 3 or 4 years old".

Use it for animal bedding. Most fruit woods are safe, but Red Cedar is
a definite no for some animals. Walnut is said to be toxic to horses.
Also said to be bad for plants.

Lining the floor of a chicken coop. Make sure there are no nails and
suchlike. (RH Farmer says that "Probably the best way of using sawdust
in horticulture is to compost it with animal or poultry manure in the
proportion of three parts of sawdust to one of manure. ....... If
poultry manure is not available, use urea or Nitro-Chalk as an
activator".

For smoking meats and fish. "We make our own sausage which we smoke
with maple sawdust and sometimes with a little (American?) Cherry
thrown in".

Use it for soaking up oil spills in the garage.

For cleaning greasy hands and tools after auto work.
 
Also for removing the wet gunge formed by paint and varnish removers. 

Take half a cup and fill it half to 3/4 full of sawdust. Melt some
paraffin wax (use kitchen candles and do it in a double pan) and pour
into the cup (away from a naked flame). Good for lighting campfires
(or garden bonfires).

Another suggestion was to use old film cassette containers for
mini-firelighter moulds.

Use it to store root crops in.

Give it to a school for use in pottery. ( Eg, firing by the Raku
process in which red-hot, specially glazed pots are immersed in
sawdust).

And a new one from me. Use dried shavings/turnings for a bran
substitute for an old-fashioned lucky dip brantub for the next
fund-raising event

Caveat: Repetition does not constitute an endorsement.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From 100611.1526@compuserve.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:17 EST 1997
Article: 182959 of rec.woodworking
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From: ken <100611.1526@compuserve.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: advice on MDF
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 08:41:39 +0000
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A friend wants to panel his bathroom and is thinkng of MDF (due to
cheapness). I'm not sure whether it will cope with humidity.

Does anyone have any experience of say, sealing BOTH sides before
hanging it??


From aandrlee@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:18 EST 1997
Article: 182960 of rec.woodworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com (AandRLEE)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sources and info re highest quality plywood
Date: 9 Feb 1997 09:15:49 GMT
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I am looking for information and sources for high quality plywood
approximately 3/8" thick to be used for small box building. Any info
regarding what's available and what makes good plywood would be GREATLY
appreciated! Thanks in advance.


From aandrlee@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:19 EST 1997
Article: 182961 of rec.woodworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com (AandRLEE)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tips on working with Ebony
Date: 9 Feb 1997 09:25:18 GMT
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I am interested in any info related to working with Ebony. I am
considering using the wood for a small box but I am a bit worried about
the reliability of the wood/glue joints. I would like to think that this
box will be around for my grandchildren so I would like to do my best to
minimize any risk of checking or cracking. Also, Any finishing tips would
also be immensely appreciated. Thanks in advance!


From aandrlee@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:20 EST 1997
Article: 182962 of rec.woodworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com (AandRLEE)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Machinist type tool chest plans/info/ideas
Date: 9 Feb 1997 09:19:51 GMT
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I am slowly but surely making progress designing a small machinist type
tool chest for myself. If anyone out there has any plans, advice or
suggestions regarding this project, I would VERY much like to hear from
you. Thanks!


From *stev@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:21 EST 1997
Article: 182963 of rec.woodworking
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From: *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: 9 Feb 1997 09:17:34 GMT
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>>FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN

[snipped]

>
><asine, rude, unfunny, dork-o-rama attempt at humor 
>snipped for the betterment of civilization>
>
>
>DEAR LYN,
>
>
>HA HAH!  GOOD WON!   I GOT ONE FER YOU:
>
>
>Three reasons a lot of people think you're a jackass for posting stuff like
>that:
>
>(1)  It's sexist and mean.
>(2)  It has nothing to do with this forum.
>(3)  It's pathetically unfunny.
>
>
>        Maybe when you get to high school, you'll learn how to act in 
public,
>eh?  Meanwhile go study for your social studies quiz!
>
>
>-- Andrew (speaking, as always, for himself, and no one else, much less
>his employer) 
>


A sense of humor will go far in life.


stev


-- 
If replying by mail, remove the 
asterisk* from my email address. 



Spammers Please READ:
Pursuant to US Code, Title47, chap.5, subchap.II
Any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to
this address is subject to a download and archival
Fee in the amount of $500.00US. Emailing denotes
acceptance of terms.



From royko@astral.magic.ca Sat Feb 15 11:32:22 EST 1997
Article: 182964 of rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 08:06:20 -0500
From: royko@astral.magic.ca (paul royko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Child safe paint
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In article <5dbtd8$55s$1@mhafc.production.compuserve.com>, Alan
<104263.3046@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

> Who makes a good non-toxic child safe paint?

What color are you planning on painting the child? Only kidding.

It depends on what you mean by child safe. Are you referring to painting
something that the child will be using (toys, furniture, etc.) or are you
referring to a paint that the child can use?

I will assume it's the former since there aren't many 3 year-old
woodworkers. With the elimination of lead as a paint additive (except in
artist's pigments), most paints are quite safe once the solvents have
evaporated.

If i was making small items (toys, etc.) then I would use acrylic artist's
colors. They are expensive but they're long-lasting and safe. For larger
items like furniture, I would go with one of the "plastic" finishes like
Flecto's Colors in Plastic.

-- 
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
http://www.magic.ca/~royko/olddog1.html


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:23 EST 1997
Article: 182965 of rec.woodworking
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From: bob6666 <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veritas Router Table
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 01:24:41 -0800
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SLIPPOY wrote:
> 

> 
>   No problems since, but I get
> nervous everytime I feed wood into the router.

Thanks for the info. I'm still looking into buying one. I made my own
table but now need more room in the shop(table is free standing). MY Dad
told me 35yrs. ago "if you arn't a little nervice every time you use a
power tool, walk away" . by the way my router has a small safty chain on
it.Glad your not hurt.
                                            good luck
                                                 Bob


From cfopp@nexus.edu.au Sat Feb 15 11:32:24 EST 1997
Article: 182966 of rec.woodworking
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From: Clayton Fopp <cfopp@nexus.edu.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Billiard Table
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:18:31 +1030
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Does anyonr know where I can get hold of or download plans for a
billiard table?
Clayton Fopp
Australia
cfopp@nexus.edu.au


From rlevy66467@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:24 EST 1997
Article: 182967 of rec.woodworking
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From: rlevy66467@aol.com (RLevy66467)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: looking for a good finishing nailer for around $ 250.00 --- any suggestions??
Date: 9 Feb 1997 10:24:19 GMT
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Scott Wrote
>looking for a good finishing nailer for around $ 250.00 --- any
>suggestions??
>
>Has anyone tried the  Porter Cable FN250A.. or anyhting >compatible???

Hi Scott
I just bought the Porta Cable FN250A a couple of weeks ago to replace a
Pasload trim nailer that was stolen. I have only used the FN250A on one
job todate, so I can not vouch for it's long range life, but for now it
seems to be a nice tool. I have not been running into misfires, and the
gun can keep up with me during a fast series of shooting.
It's weight is approximately the same as the Pasload, it has the same
magazine (looks the same, I'm told that it is a direct copy), and a
smaller (lighter) head assembly then the older FN250.
My main uses for the tool is as an interior door frame nailer (it drives a
2 1/2" 16ga. brad) I use the smaller and lighter BN200 brad nailer to
attach all of the casings and trims (it drives a 2" 18ga, brad). But I was
using the FN250A to install base on this job and used it to install
approximately 1000 Ln.Ft. with no jams or other problems.
It seems to be a nice tool for the price, but like I said before, this is
based on only 1 job.

Good luck
Richard 




From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:25 EST 1997
Article: 182968 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What makes the best Shellac brush??
Date: 5 Feb 1997 15:57:34 GMT
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In article <5d6ahm$i6h@goofy.snet.net>,
Chuck Riccardo  <riccardo@snet.net> wrote:
>Would like to put a fine coat of shellac on some boxes I spent half the 
>Winter building. What is the best brush that I can buy for this purpose?
>Chuck Riccardo
>

I brush on a ~1 lb sealer coat using an old synthetic brush,
letting it soak well into the wood. Let it dry completely and
sand lightly with 320 or 400 grit.
Then I use a French polishing pad to build up the finish and
a rag to get into corners.
Quit when you get the desired level of gloss. A well built up
finish can be rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone.
I alway finish with a coat of paste wax.

Flexner's book is pretty good on French Polishing.
I've found it to be the easiest, fastest, and best looking
finish for pieces that don't need much water protection.

Carl



-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738


From camchase@gxl.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:26 EST 1997
Article: 182969 of rec.woodworking
From: camchase <camchase@gxl.com>
Organization: Woodtech Information Systems, Inc.
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I am trying to do some simple engraving (an initail) on the top of a box I
am building.  Is there anyone that has experience in doing this with a 
Dremel tool?  What type of bit and how deep, etc?  I have experimented 
with a few and don't like the results I have gotten.  Any help 
appreciated. 

Thanks.

Camchase

Camaghey Chase Farms
Reg. Belgian Horses
Proudly standing "Leaskdale Conscent"




From nchillboy@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:27 EST 1997
Article: 182970 of rec.woodworking
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From: nchillboy@aol.com (NCHillboy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bush whackers (whacking more than weeds)
Date: 9 Feb 1997 10:58:45 GMT
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Yes I have.  I have been down this road many times and let me tell there
are no FAST AND EASY answers.

Goats work fine but you should tie them with a chain and collar for the
project and place a bucket of water close by and keep moving the chain
post into the briars as they eat it down.

Tractor and Bush Hog:
Works great but if the field is not fairly level it will be dangerous to
try to find the holes and stumps that will surely be there.  Also you can
bet on buying at least one tire that gets punctured with the thorns or
stubble.  If you are not experienced in using a piece of farm equipment
like this then hire it done.

RoundUp
Great chemical but delivering it to 5 acres of head high blackberry briars
will not happen and still be consistent plus you still have the briars for
years until they fall down.  Would recommend using this after the briars
get downed.

WeedEater with brush blade:
Dangerous, tiring and difficult but effective and if taken in small doses
will get the job done.

I have used the old Mowing Scythe as a more effective tool than the brush
blade  and mowed many of an acre.  But if you do not have experience with
how to work it you will beat many a briar but have a heart attack in the
process.

Old Beat up Lawn Mower:
This would probably be very effective and I have done this one.  Go to a
yard sale and buy the cheapest, ugliest and oldest (typically older the
better metal) mower you can find that will crank and run.  Take it home
and put fresh oil in it and crank it.  push it onto the briars and let it
down slowly.  You will develop a technique with in the first half acre and
be done with it.

Here is what I finally recommend if I was doing it myself.
Hire it done by someone with a tractor and bush hog that will back into
it.
Beat up old lawn mower but do it before the bees get active in the ground
Goats, but have patience and know  that the goats will not make good pets.
WeedWhacker, just take it in small chunks  


From stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca Sat Feb 15 11:32:28 EST 1997
Article: 182971 of rec.woodworking
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From: stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca (Walt Stein)
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nstn2527@fox.nstn.ca (nstn2527) wrote:

>
>Where do I go from here?  Try dowels from different suppliers?  Or buy a 
>11/16th bit and do some sanding?  Or am I concerned about nothing?
>
>Anyone like to comment?
>
>Les
>
Here's two more (slightly different) cents on the matter.

1. give up the search for accurate dowels.  You may find them at a
specialty house like Lee Valley, but your local hardware store is
unable to provide them, so far as I can see.

2. Find your own way of making pegs and dowels. A steel plate is one
solution.  I stumbled on another last month when I needed (absolutely
required) several dozen perfectly sized dowels.  These were necessary
for a drawn-peg construction in which the offset holes were less than
1/64th out of line.  Obviously, an undersize dowel would not draw the
parts, but allow enough slop to prevent the tightening of the joint.

I hunted for dowels locally, hoping to find one or two that might be
"wrong" in the direction I needed.  No luck.  Then I realized that my
old unimat hobbyist lathe might solve the problem.  I split some rough
lengths of several hardwoods (maple, walnut, etc), chucked them up,
and was able to turn dowels within 2 thousandths of the size of
required.  Took virtually no time, and provided me with a bagful of
variously sized pegs for the future.

I know that few of you will find this helpful, since you will not have
the mini-lathe. Otoh, I have found this dowel producer so useful
(along with all the other virtues of having this machine) that if I
didn't already own one, I might spring for it for this purpose only.
I use lots of thru-dowelled m-t's in my furniture and this has turned
out to be a real winner for me.

YOurs,
Walt
"It would seem that the universe is thirty billion light years across and every inch of it would kill us if we went there. This is the position of the universe with regard to human life." --Martin Amis


From mac.mccarthy@ndirect.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:32:29 EST 1997
Article: 182972 of rec.woodworking
From: "Mac" <mac.mccarthy@ndirect.co.uk>
Subject: Wooden Fireside Bellows
Message-ID: <01bc167a$e7a1e7e0$46fe4ac2@soho-mac>
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Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 11:18:48 +0000
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Hand crafted real wood fireside bellows made to order. Ideal gift from
rural England. bellows can be decorated to your specification in oils if
required. Each Set are had crafted by Carole Llewellyn in her 17th Century
Water Mill in Shropshire, England, for more details see:


http://www.ndirect.co.uk/~mac.mccarthy/index.htm


From paul@rrnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:29 EST 1997
Article: 182973 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul <paul@rrnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 05:51:12 -0600
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Woodworkers Supply.  They guarantee their prices are better than any
other nationally advertised price.  They usually have free shipping for
larger (stationary) tools.

Basic contractors saw - 699.00. Free delivery in 48 states.

800-645-9292.


From wooddon@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:30 EST 1997
Article: 182974 of rec.woodworking
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From: wooddon@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 9 Feb 1997 11:57:27 GMT
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Maybe, just maybe we all could cut down on some of our postings.
I know that a awfull lot of the re: responses are just non-informative" me
toos"
I also think that each *new* member of this group should be directed to
the FAQs
before they are allowed to post( if thats possible)

I would really hate to see the group split, I find so many interesting
posts about so many different things that I'm afriad that if it was all 
split into 100 sub groups that I wouldn't read as many. One of the great
thinks about this group is its diverity(sp)
I would really miss it, as i miss the nuckle draggers, and the turnners.
Just MHO but thats all I have to offer...........Wooddon 


From nchillboy@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:31 EST 1997
Article: 182975 of rec.woodworking
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From: nchillboy@aol.com (NCHillboy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pecan flooring suggestions?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 12:40:20 GMT
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If you need it soon then you will need to have it kiln dried.  When you
find someone to do that then ask them if they know who might be able to do
the t&ging for you.  I just went through T&Ging a 1000 ft of heart pine
and it is no easy task even with a shaper and you will need 3 people. 
Allowing for some cooldown time for the Router it will take a few days. 
As for the floating floor I don't know but I would fix 2x6 nailers to the
concrete and do a typical nail down installation for the floor.  I did
that on a porch that we enclosed to add to the living room and it worked
great and still is.


From djs2@well.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:32 EST 1997
Article: 182976 of rec.woodworking
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From: djs2@well.com (Donald Stern)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry
Date: 9 Feb 1997 12:19:02 GMT
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RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:

: I have never gotten an answer to the question of why this is not
: always the case.  I have a cherry piece that has remained unfinished
: for almost 2 years, with no appreciable darkening.  Explanation?

Rick,

The reason for your piece not darkening is probably due to the fact that
it is in a location fairly sheltered from direct, appreciable uv sun
light. I have some old redwood paneling that's hasn't darkened appreciably
either because of its site. 

Don


From abraham@cedar-rapids.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:33 EST 1997
Article: 182977 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 15:14:34 -0600
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-- I won't even go into what a pain in the ....it was to try to get it
>from  Sears CRAPSman. They wont sell replacement parts if you didn't buy
the machine. I bought it used. If anyone has one I would love to have a
copy. Please respond by E-mail.

Thanks much 

Jameel Abraham


mailto:abraham@cedar-rapids.net
http://www.skep.com/mt-sinai/

St. John the Baptist Orthodox Church
Mt. Sinai Orthodox Church Products

Tel (800) 867-3036
Fax (319) 363-4252


From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:33 EST 1997
Article: 182978 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Storing/Stacking scraps & extra lumber
Date: 5 Feb 1997 21:04:10 GMT
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In article <01bc138f$56e301a0$5ac9a4c6@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>,
Abacab <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Does anyone have any great concepts, inventions, or unproven ideas for the
>storing of lumber in the shop?  I was considering building a large
>multi-shelf unit to allow easy access and support of the wood, with doors
>to keep some of the dust off.
>

I built a storage rack out of 2x4s. I used doubled 2x4s for the vertical
supports and screwed them to the joists in the shop ceiling.
I cut a 3/4" deep rabbet out of the ends so they fit together
with the ceiling joist in the center.
Groan- time for ascii art I guess:

		   x x
		   x x
                   x x
		__ x x__
                | |x x| |
		| |x x| |
		|   ||  |
		|   ||  |


The vertical members are 16" apart. The horizontal members are
~2 ft long sections of 2x4 captured in dadoes in the vertical
members. The dadoes are about an 1/2" deep and 3" wide and fit
into notches in the horizontal pieces:

          |  ||  |
          |  ||  |
          | _||_ |
          | |  | |
          | |  | |
          | |__| |
          |  ||  |
          |  ||  |

	Vertical member front view


	 ___     _______________________
	|   |____|                      |
        |                               |
        |    _____                      |   
        |___|    |______________________|
        
        Notched Horizontal member side view.

I made the horizontal pieces about 2 ft apart.

The rack greatly improved organization in the shop and seems very
strong. It's currently holding a pile of wood.

I don't know why you'd want shelves or doors. The open structure
makes it easier to get at the wood and accomodate various lengths 
and widths of lumber.

>Also, what about the smaller scraps?  Although I'm a Canadian, and we
>perhaps don't have the deep rooted Yankee thrift, we don't like the idea of
>throwing pieces away that might come in handy (not to mention the higher
>tax rate we must endure for all the socialist programs many in our nation
>have become dependent on that we must pay for). :-)
>

Scraps are where my organizational system breaks down. I have various 
heaps. One heap is small pieces of nice hardwoods that could 
possibly, but most probably won't, be used for inlays, handles,etc.
Another heap is larger pieces, that could conceivably be turned into
small items - ring boxes etc.
Then there's a heap for jigs, scrap wood, and the fireplace.
Underneath each heap is (probably) a cardboard box.
I'm working on burning up as much as I can this winter, since
having some frugal New England Yankee blood in me, I can't
throw much of anything out.

Hope this helps.

Carl

Just say (Tm Patrick Leach): And then there's my box of used sandpaper
			     scraps......
>Kind Regards,
>
>Dan Hamill
>
> 


-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738


From dbve85@mail.onslowonline.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:35 EST 1997
Article: 182979 of rec.woodworking
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From: Charlie <dbve85@mail.onslowonline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 13:11:28 GMT
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The best sawhorses I've had are the ones I have and made now.  I used 4x4
for the top and then beveled the at about 15 degrees with the legs bolted
directly to the top (made of 2x4).  Using 1x4 I ran cross pieces from 
side to side and then a piece of plywood for a self below.

Sturdy as hell and I've not been able to wear them out in over 8 years.  
They are a bit heavy though.

Charlie



From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:36 EST 1997
Article: 182980 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Norm's new toy?
Date: 5 Feb 1997 21:20:16 GMT
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In article <jewgreen-0502971340560001@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>,
jeffrey green <jewgreen@copper.ucs.indiana.edu> wrote:
>In article <5d645b$n4r@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>, opencon@primenet.com
>(Marty Escarcega) wrote:
>
>> Hitachi 3" Resaw CB75F I believe. 14 1/2" capacity. $2300 price tag at
>William 
>> Alden.
>> 
>
>Not too get off this thread exactly, but, has anyone used a 3/4" blade for
>resawing on a Jet or Delta 14" bandsaw?
>
>Does it work decent?
>
>jg

Suffolk Machinery sells a thinner than most others 3/4"
resaw blade for 14" bandsaws. I get good results
with it on my Delta 14".

Carl

-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738


From nchillboy@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:36 EST 1997
Article: 182981 of rec.woodworking
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From: nchillboy@aol.com (NCHillboy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1.5HP PC VS 2.0HP Dewalt Router
Date: 9 Feb 1997 13:19:54 GMT
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Just went through this decision process recently myself with exactly the 2
routers that you have listed.

PC690
Pros
Don't get more standard.  Every thing bolts to it or makes an adapter for
it. 
Solid well built made to handle it
Great table router

Cons
No plunge unless you buy the plunge base 
Switch for power requires only one hand to hold the router during power up
hard jerk during power on.

Dewalt 621
Pros 
Soft Start variable speed
plenty of power
Better handles for control
Dust collection that really works
Light weight 

Cons 
New Design don't know if the bugs are worked out yet.  Have not found any
but??
More expensive

I did not want the 15 lbs monsters that are the standard plunge routers
and this just fit my needs.  A kind gentleman sent me a note that owned
them both and I bought the DeWalt blind on his advice and have been
extremely pleased with the Dewalt.  You can not go wrong with the PC but I
felt I was going more right with the 621 


From zack@epix.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:37 EST 1997
Article: 182982 of rec.woodworking
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From: zack@epix.net  (mike)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WTB twelve inch jointer
Date: 9 Feb 1997 13:28:07 GMT
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Want to buy used 12 inch jointer, would consider Robland jointer/planer
or SCMI FSB350.  Must be in good condition.  I am located in Ny state,
I would travel reasonable distance (day trip).


From YXFX27A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:38 EST 1997
Article: 182983 of rec.woodworking
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From: YXFX27A@prodigy.com (Jimmie Motto)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collection for Radial Arm Saw
Date: 9 Feb 1997 13:28:29 GMT
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"Andrew Dunn" <dundonal@global.co.za> wrote:
>
>There must be millions of radial arm saw owners out there! Will those 
of
>you who have developed an EFFECTIVE method of collecting dust from this
>versatile tool, please let me have the benefit of your wisdom please? 
>
>I've tried some methods using a HPLV hose, but it keeps on falling off 
as
>it is not compatible with the collection outlet on the saw.  
>
>Thanks for your help
>Andrew Dunn
>Port Elizabeth South Africa
>andydunn@global.co.za

  we had trouble with this also. finally hung an old sock over that  
outlet on the saw,then built a box (approx. 10"x 12")  that sits just to 
the left side of the  vertical shaft  that the saw goes up and down on. 
this puts the box directly behind the blade when you're cutting at  90 
degrees . we ran a four inch outlet into the side of this box and it 
seems to get about 90% of the dust, somewhat less when we swing the saw 
off 90 degrees. also, the sock is slowly filling up. I also would be 
interested in improving the efficiency of this setup.
tia
jim 



From neilw@informix.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:39 EST 1997
Article: 182984 of rec.woodworking
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From: Neil Williams <neilw@informix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Edge planing a long board
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 16:48:27 -0800
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There's also a jig in Popular Woodworking for turning a plane
upside down with infeed and outfeed tables, to make into a
"manual" jointer.

Take a long flat piece of board (plywood, MDF, whatever) and 
set it up as an infeed table slightly below the level of your
planer, and another piece of board slightly higher for the
outfeed table. Mount the planer upside down at a slight angle
(so the blade cuts the board at an angle), and you're all
set. Just jun your cherry through your manual jointer until
it's flat. Oh, you'll probably also want to add a guide fence.

This summary isn't exact, of course, but I assume you can 
figure out the infeed/outfeed table heights relative to the
blade yourself. Hopefully you won't disallow yourself from
using already flat board for the infeed/outfeed tables.

--Neil

StanR wrote:
> 
> Well, I use a "board carrier" jig I've made to do that same thing on the
> radial arm saw. You said you want to do it without power tools, but
> maybe a similiar technique will work. Start with a long length that's
> already straight (I hope that this isn't a no-no also). Clamp it to the
> board you're trying to straighten and use it as a guide to plane-down
> to. Add a passive fence or strike-pin to the side of your plane to
> contact the guide. You'll also have to be concerned with keeping the
> plane right to the edge, so you'll need a guide (on the other side of
> the plane, perhaps) for that, too.


From 73257.2074@CompuServe.COM Sat Feb 15 11:32:40 EST 1997
Article: 182985 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jean Heroux <73257.2074@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Polishing Urethane
Date: 9 Feb 1997 13:59:57 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182985

You can polish urethane in two steps. First polish with Pumice powder,
mixed to a paste with water or oil. This will make the finish dull. Then
repeat the process with Rottenstone. This will make it shiny again,
although not quite as shiny as the original gloss. But all small surface
defects will be gone. You can then wax it if you like.


From nchillboy@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:41 EST 1997
Article: 182986 of rec.woodworking
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From: nchillboy@aol.com (NCHillboy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sliding miter saw
Date: 9 Feb 1997 14:16:17 GMT
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I have the Delta SCMS and have had to loan it out to others that have the
basic chop saw.  The extra cut is worth the dollars if you have them
otherwise just wait until you do


From nunezm@mail.buffnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:42 EST 1997
Article: 182987 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mario Nunez <nunezm@mail.buffnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cordless drill - DeWalt the only choice?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 12:37:42 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
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slippoy@aol.com (SLIPPOY) wrote:
>I bought the Bosch 14.4 and am very happy with it.  It's got power to
>spare and has a great feature of a chuck that locks in place when the
>drill stops so you can change bits with one hand.  I tried the Porter
>Cable 12v which supposedly has more torque than the Bosch 14.4, but found
>the highest torque setting below full drill (22) wouldn't quite
>countersink a 3" drywall screw into a 2x4 whereas the similar setting on
>the Bosch buried the screw.  The drill setting on the PC did bury the
>screw, and the PC has a nice feature of diagnostics on the charger.  Its
>feel, however, was a bit clumsy and it was a bit awkward to switch from
>reverse to forward, at least to my hands.

   Well, I don't know about this.  My PC 12-volt drove 3" screws through 
the 3/4" oak piece in the back of my new kitchen cabinets, then through 
the plaster, lath and the 75 year old studs with no problem at all.  The 
real problem seemed to be knowing when to back off so I wouldn't put 
everything, including the drill itself, right through the wall.  
   I chose the PC over the DeWalt mostly because it's a shade lighter and 
fit my hand better.  At 5'5" and 150 lbs., I use a 16 oz framing hammer 
rather than a 20 or 26 ounce for the same reason.  Somewhere about the 
time I turned 40 a few years ago, I finally realized that I don't have to 
prove to myself that I'm as "tough" as my friends who are 6'6" and over 
200 lbs.
   Cheers.

Mario
Buffalo, NY




From bonjour@indy.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:42 EST 1997
Article: 182988 of rec.woodworking
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From: Thomas Bonjour <bonjour@indy.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Used Tablesaw - Need Advice
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 09:21:35 -0500
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I bought a Walker-Turner 10"  (c1948) about 10 years ago. It was in
almost unused condition at the  time and I paid $200. The saw is very
heavy and well made.  I continue to plan to replace the fence which
leaves a lot to be desired. However the saw itself is very precise.
 Since then I have found two Walker-Turner wood lathes which are of
equal quality. Anybody have a Walker-Turner bandsaw for sale?

------------A171C541D443
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<HTML><BODY>

<DT>I bought a Walker-Turner 10&quot;&nbsp; (c1948) about 10 years ago.
It was in almost unused condition at the&nbsp; time and I paid $200. The
saw is very heavy and well made.&nbsp; I continue to plan to replace the
fence which leaves a lot to be desired. However the saw itself is very
precise. &nbsp;Since then I have found two Walker-Turner wood lathes which
are of equal quality. Anybody have a Walker-Turner bandsaw for sale?&nbsp;</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------A171C541D443--



From bonjour@indy.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:43 EST 1997
Article: 182989 of rec.woodworking
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From: Thomas Bonjour <bonjour@indy.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Used Tablesaw - Need Advice
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 09:22:20 -0500
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------------6B1B5A765D6D4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I bought a Walker-Turner 10"  (c1948) about 10 years ago. It was in
almost unused condition at the  time and I paid $200. The saw is very
heavy and well made.  I continue to plan to replace the fence which
leaves a lot to be desired. However the saw itself is very precise.
 Since then I have found two Walker-Turner wood lathes which are of
equal quality. Anybody have a Walker-Turner bandsaw for sale?

------------6B1B5A765D6D4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<HTML><BODY>

<DT>I bought a Walker-Turner 10&quot;&nbsp; (c1948) about 10 years ago.
It was in almost unused condition at the&nbsp; time and I paid $200. The
saw is very heavy and well made.&nbsp; I continue to plan to replace the
fence which leaves a lot to be desired. However the saw itself is very
precise. &nbsp;Since then I have found two Walker-Turner wood lathes which
are of equal quality. Anybody have a Walker-Turner bandsaw for sale?&nbsp;</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------6B1B5A765D6D4--



From jims@webmart.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:44 EST 1997
Article: 182990 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Summers <jims@webmart.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 08:28:55 -0800
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:182990

whylandj@kodak.com wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw.  I have
> no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one to buy.
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff Whyland
> Rochester, NY
	I have used both adjustable and stacked and I prefer the stacked. When
you run a piece through the adjustable, it always lifts up as you pass
through the piece. This is part of the nature of them. It feels strange
to me.
	Beside that, buy carbibe tipped and the best you can afford. I have
been using a set that cost $50 and came from Menards. I have no
complaints, in fact I prefer setting up the width each time by adding or
subtracting chippers to the feel of the adjustable.
	I hope this helps. Just remember that it is esier than it seems
					Jim Summers


From willyj@sunherald.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:45 EST 1997
Article: 182991 of rec.woodworking
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From: willyj@sunherald.infi.net (Will Jordan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Carousel Rocking Horse
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 08:29:33 -0600
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I want to build a Carousel Rocking Horse, the plans I have, but calls for 4
different kinds of wood  White Ash-  Walnut- Padauk-and Purpleheart, most
of which are pretty expensive,cosidering that the first one is always a
prototype.

I plan to use pine and stain the wood to match the various wood colors,and 
there's my problem ie (what kind of stain---how to mix the stain to obtain the 
proper colors  and where can I buy the stuff?)
Colors are Padauk--orange-red
           Purpleheart-deep-purple
           White Ash- very white
           Walnut --obvious
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks Will Jordan


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:46 EST 1997
Article: 182992 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Edge planing a long board
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:03:51 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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jolmst1267@aol.com wrote:

;In article <32F293D2.778@ToothPick.Oak>, HardWood
<Splinter@ToothPick.Oak>
;writes:

;> have a problem that is frustrating the daylights out of me.  I have
a 
;>9 foot cherry board and I want one edge to be "perfectly" straight.

;Sounds like a familier problem :)

;>The issue is how do you make a long board very staight using just >
hand
;tools? No matter how long the plane is, the board never seems >to
come 
;>out straight. When I eye the board from the end, I can see either a 
;>valley or a hill. Not huge, but visible. 

;Well, if you can see the hill plane it off.  Dont worry about trying
to
;take a shaving off the full length,  just hit the high spots.  Keep
;sighting down the board and making adjustments and if your lucky you
will
;have a little board left by the time you get it straight.  Most of
all,
;learn to trust your eyes.  They're a lot more accurate than people
give
;them credit for.

;This used to be the job of an apprentice in the shops before power
tools
;and is not a tough skill to master.  Of course they used to
"practise" 10
;- 12 hours a day.

;I dont own a jointer and I do the initial flattening of the first
face and
;jointing the first edge with a 14 inch bench plane.  I then turn to
the
;power tools to rip it to width and thickness it.  If the board isnt
to
;twisted or bowed I can have the handwork done in about 15 minutes on
a 6
;foot board.  How long does that take on a jointer?

;Keep trying and dont give up.  Like anything else that depends on
eye,
;hand,body, & brain control - all it takes is practise....


;Good luck,
;Jeff Olmstead
this is exactly why some cabinitmakers are called master craftsmen,
rthey can get the desired results through years of practice and trust
in their natural senses .To make another point ,senses include
thesense of touch ,often it is easy to feel imperfections that the eye
is completely oblivious of until displayed in the correct light.
Amastercabinet maker will gererally do long board jointing without any
gimmicks or jigs far faster than it can be done on a jointer.
                     mjh



From jcorcora@fgi.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:47 EST 1997
Article: 182993 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: jcorcora@fgi.net (John Corcoran)
Subject: St Louis Woodworking Show
Message-ID: <287cd$162914.1f@NTNEWS>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 04:41:20 GMT
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I'll be going to the show sunday 2/9/97.   If anyone who has been to it 
already this year could comment on the bargains to seek and scams to 
avoid I would appreciate it.   Any pointers at all could really be 
service and time saver to all who may read the responses to this 
post.  
I've been going for 6 years.   I plan to purchase a raised panel door 
bit set with cove & bead for 1/2 inch router.




From ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:48 EST 1997
Article: 182994 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Timpano <ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Norm's new toy?
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 21:59:47 -0800
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It is a Hitachi resaw.  I have one.  3hp motor (like a router motor,
very high speed with gear reduction and twin belt drive.  Just resawed
some 8/4 mahogany last week 12 inches wide.  Blades have stellite teeth
(though Norm said carbide-maybe they changed since I bought mine 8 or
ten years ago.  The saw is great.  I use it a lot for ripping
lumber-like making 2x2s out of 2x4s.  very safe for this type of work,
and it cuts as fast as you can push the stock through. 
It is noisy as another poster noted, due to motor type (universal rather
than induction type.) 
> 
> Thomas Paul Karrmann wrote:
> >
> > I just saw TNYW over the weekend, and Norm was using a machine I would like
> > to know more about.  He used it to resaw some Tiger Maple for making a wash
> > stand, and I believe he called the machine a resaw (aptly named) (I could
> > be wrong about that name, sometimes his accent throws me).  In any case, it
> > looked very much like a band saw, but with a 3 inch blade and rather small
> > but tall throat.  A blade that wide should resaw very nicely, but I have
> > never seen or heard of this beast before.  What is it?  Who makes them?
> > Any info on the 'net?
> >
> > TIA
>


From jcorcora@fgi.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:49 EST 1997
Article: 182995 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: jcorcora@fgi.net (John Corcoran)
Subject: Re: Sources and info re highest quality plywood
Message-ID: <297cd$72a18.5d@NTNEWS>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 13:42:24 GMT
References: <19970209091501.EAA03141@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19970209091501.EAA03141@ladder01.news.aol.com>, aandrlee@aol.comg 
says...
>
>I am looking for information and sources for high quality plywood
>approximately 3/8" thick to be used for small box building. Any info
>regarding what's available and what makes good plywood would be GREATLY
>appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I just read in "SHOP NOTES" volume 25 about Appleply and Baltic Birch.  
They have twice as many plies as regular plywood, which makes them very 
stable.  

Apple ply has alder inner plies, comes in a variety of face veneers and 
grades.    Can locate the nearest dealer to you by caling (800) 626-1981.

Baltic Birch is birch throughout, made in Europe & Russia and only comes in 
metric sizes.   Is supposed to be a little cheaper though.

Article also says even if your local lumberyard doesnt carry this specialty 
plywood they should be able to special order them.

Good luck & happy woodworking :-)

John Corcoran




From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:50 EST 1997
Article: 182996 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Billiard Table
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:15:30 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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References: <32FD9D6F.76F6@nexus.edu.au>
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Clayton Fopp <cfopp@nexus.edu.au> wrote:

;Does anyonr know where I can get hold of or download plans for a
;billiard table?
;Clayton Fopp
;Australia
;cfopp@nexus.edu.au

Just remember if you get one from the US that it will not be the same
as  a real one[ UK type ],the tables here  are really pool tables
which are smaller and have bigger  pockets which makes every thing
much easier. Hey perhaps thats what you want.
                      mjh



From joeyb@pro-ns.net Sat Feb 15 11:32:51 EST 1997
Article: 182997 of rec.woodworking
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From: joeyb@pro-ns.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Freud Biscuit Joiner dust collection?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 09:20:59 GMT
Organization: Professional Network Services
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I have an older Freud biscuit joiner without dust collection, and
would like to add a fitting to attach a vaccum hose.  Anybody try this
with any success?  I duct taped a crevice attachment, and it works
great, but this is obviously not even a short term solution.

Thanks
Dave


From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:51 EST 1997
Article: 182998 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Context! Was Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 18:44:18 -0400
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In article <5diakl$19f$1@superb.csc.ti.com>, lange@mkol1.dseg.ti.com (mark
lange) wrote:

> John Hofstad-Parkhill (jhparkhill@sihope.com) wrote:
> : As noted, you're not.
> 
>   I'm glad I'm not, I was afraid I might be.  Now I can
> rest easier at night knowing that I am not. :-)
> 
> : They've also introduced a "lite" version for about $80.
> 
>   Wow, sure beats the cost of the "heavy" version.  OTOH,
> my heavy version works in off-road applications much better.  
> 
> 
> : Same outfit (A-Line-it).
> 
>   B-Line-it is the cheap far eastern knock-off :-)
> 
> As often noted, context is important.  This is probably the most
> egregious example of posting a reply to heaven knows what comment
> without any context.  I know that there is a great deal of
> complaint about people quoting large  volumes of text for a two
> line reply,  however, there is an opposite extreme and this post is
> it.  New posters seem to very often be afraid to quote *any* text.
> Remember, particularly in a high volume newsgroup, folks don't follow
> a thread verbatim.  In many cases, days may pass betwee postings to the
> thread, in other cases replys may post to a user's machine before the
> original thread.  In all cases some *small* reminder of what the comment
> is replying to, or whose opinion you're agreeing with are appreciated.
> (I really like the one-line posts that say, "I agree" to a thread
> with two diametrically opposed opinions)
> 
> 
>   Sorry for the rant, but this is a real sore spot (that and the 
> fact the baby has a cold, the wife is out, so I'm not in the shop :-( )

Mark,

Very well said--about a problem that definitely needs attention from many
of us! 

At the risk of bruising the smiling fortune-tellers, we should all try to
"strike a happy medium." :-)

-- 
Phil Rose


From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:52 EST 1997
Article: 182999 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: When to ammonia fume (was Re: Ammonia for fuming)
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 18:35:30 -0400
Organization: ServiceTech, Inc.
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References: <32F13A64.D0C@mail.pacifier.com> <jah-0102971641400001@128.103.73.90> <01bc13d7$cc097700$fc3393cf@gateway-2000> <01bc156c$a5de6cc0$dc869ccc@arie>
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In article <01bc156c$a5de6cc0$dc869ccc@arie>, "Arie Litman"
<sawdust@litman.com> wrote:

> Hmmm.... Fuming sounds interesting... When do you use fuming, before or
> after cutting? Sanding? gluing?

Usually, ammonia fuming is done in the finishing stage--after
assembly,gluing, sanding, etc.--but prior to application of any penetrating
oils or varnish. Some additional finish (oil and/or varnish) is necessary
after the fuming step. 

Some workers seem to prefer to fume before glue-up, but that's not my
preference. However for a very large piece, fuming before complete assembly
might permit use of a more manageably sized fuming tent.

-- 
Phil Rose


From cliver@quebectel.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:53 EST 1997
Article: 183000 of rec.woodworking
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From: Claude Livernoche <cliver@quebectel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planer
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 10:19:18 -0500
Organization: GlobeTrotter
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I want to get a planer and i am considering the 12 1/2" Craftsman. I
would appreciate your comments.
Also, any comments about Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer (3 blades)?
-- 

cliver@quebectel.com


From rwgcubed@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:54 EST 1997
Article: 183001 of rec.woodworking
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From: rwgcubed@aol.com (RWGCUBED)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 table saw?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 15:23:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I recently bought the 34-670 from Home Depot for $315 as a floor model,
but it sells for $350 new anyway. $300 doesn't seem like much of a
discount to me for a used tablesaw, but if it comes with a few good
blades, tenoning jig, etc, it might be worth it. 

I like my saw, even though it is Taiwanese-made, it's perfect for the DIY
guy and beginning furniture maker. The fence on it is superior to the
newer COntractor 2, as it has  a pipe rail on each side of the table for
pretty accurate fence position . A USA model Delta Contractor saw runs
about $700, so I will have to burn through 2 of these Taiwan brands to
make up the difference. If money weren't the issue, though, I would have
bought the USA brand. It'll last forever.

Bob Gehrman
rwgcubed@aol.com


From bandrew@eaglequest.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:54 EST 1997
Article: 183002 of rec.woodworking
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From: bandrew <bandrew@eaglequest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Q:  How to Repair Broken Chair Seat?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 10:14:08 -0800
Organization: EagleQuest, Inc.
Lines: 17
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I am not sure if this is the proper newsgroup (if not, can someone
direct me the right way?), but my next project is to reglue the chairs
of our dining roo0m table.

The chairs are about 30 years old, never been repaired (I inheritied the
dinig room set from mom and dad).  A good portion of the joints on the
legs are loose and in need of cleanup and re-gluing.  That part I can
handle, where I am running into problems is with one of the armed
chairs: the seat is cracked thru the joint where the front, verticle,
arm support meets the chair seat.  The seat is ablut 1 1/2 inches thick
and made of pine (Ethan Allen).  The edges of the cracked wood are
rough.  The chair is still intacked, but I need to fix it before it
falls completely apart.  How do I do it?

bb
Britt
bandrew@eaglequest.com


From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:55 EST 1997
Article: 183003 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 18:51:57 -0400
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In article <32FCCD99.4808@uic.edu>, rhybels@uic.edu wrote:

> Greetings.
> 
> I can't find this supposed new group, rec.crafts.woodturning.
> 
> Am I missing something?  Do I have the name wrong?  
> 
> Please send me an email at rhybels@uic.edu if you can help.
> 
> I've just bought a lathe so I'll be getting back into turning after a
> gap of about 18 years -- and missing it the whole time.  Actually, I got
> a Woodtek spindle lathe and a Vega bowl lathe and a bunch of tools and
> chucks and such -- quite a haul and a pretty decent deal from a guy who
> was moving to a smaller shop space.

Sent a message to your ISP asking them to carry rec.crafts.woodturning.
It's new enough that they haven't grabbed on to it yet (yes, you've got the
name correctly).

-- 
Phil Rose


From wagner1@popd.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:56 EST 1997
Article: 183004 of rec.woodworking
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From: g wagner <wagner1@popd.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt 18 volt Cordless Saw
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 10:24:18 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 22
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rockman wrote:
> 
> Hello all...
> 
> Just wondering if anybody has any experience with this unit.
> I was curious if it lived up to it's claims of being able to
> cut 125 2x4's or rip 130 feet of 1/2 inch plywood, all on one
> charge. Any comments welcome.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike

I have one but have never run the battery down on it. The most I've cut
is around 36 2x4s but it was still going strong. It's a little awkward
to keep the sole plate down until you get used to it and I have to keep
reminding myself that though it's so small it's still a dangerous tool.
I find it handy to cut plywood with since my shop area is so tight that
it's hard to get large sheets on the table saw.

I guess I'm trying to say I like it.

Gerry


From deaneg@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:57 EST 1997
Article: 183005 of rec.woodworking
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From: deaneg@aol.com (DeanEG)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 15:43:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have purchased both dewalt 12V drill and saw and each arrived without
narry a scratch or a cosmetic element suggesting previous exposure to the
air much less any use. They have been perfect. I would recommend them any
time. The warranty is the same and they are absolutely indistinguishable
>from  brand new.


From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:58 EST 1997
Article: 183006 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I found this on the web,this old house drinking game
Date: 9 Feb 1997 16:08:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 90
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC1679.B3A944C0
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Bravo, Ralph,
But do you have the URL for where this comes from?
Casey, ROTFLMAO, and I don't say that very often...



RalphW <RalphW@Spectra.Net> wrote in article
<5di0er$7eo@ns2.spectra.net>...
> The
> 
> This Old House
> 
> and 
> 
> New Yankee Workshop <Picture> 
> 
> Drinking Game
> 
> 
<Snipped>
> 
> Take a drink if:
> 
> •Steve offers to help 
> •A new contractor is introduced 
> •The homeowner says anything about their budget 
> •Norm taps his safety glasses and reminds us how 
> important they are 
> •A new technology is displayed 
> •Anyone visits a manufacturer's plant 
> •Norm says the word "biscuit" 
> •Tom Silva gets to say goodbye at the end of the show 
> •Anyone says the word "ogee" 
> •A city or local inspector appears 
> 
> Finish your drink if:
> 
> •Steve breaks anything 
> •They actually finish a house project 
> •Bob Vila appears on the screen at the 
> same time as Steve and Norm 
> 
> Finish the whole bottle if:
> 
> •Norm breaks anything 
> •Anyone gets arrested for violations 
> of historic district zoning 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get hammered!

------=_NextPart_000_01BC1679.B3A944C0
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFBF0"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Palisade"><b>Bravo, Ralph,<br>But do you have =
the URL for where this comes from?<br>Casey, ROTFLMAO, and I don't say =
that very often...<br><br><br><br>RalphW &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>RalphW@Spectra.Net</u><font color=3D"#000000">&gt; =
wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>5di0er$7eo@ns2.spectra.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; The<br>&gt; <br>&gt; This Old =
House<br>&gt; <br>&gt; and <br>&gt; <br>&gt; New Yankee Workshop =
&lt;Picture&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Drinking Game<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
<br>&lt;Snipped&gt;<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Take a drink if:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
=95Steve offers to help <br>&gt; =95A new contractor is introduced =
<br>&gt; =95The homeowner says anything about their budget <br>&gt; =
=95Norm taps his safety glasses and reminds us how <br>&gt; important =
they are <br>&gt; =95A new technology is displayed <br>&gt; =95Anyone =
visits a manufacturer's plant <br>&gt; =95Norm says the word =
&quot;biscuit&quot; <br>&gt; =95Tom Silva gets to say goodbye at the end =
of the show <br>&gt; =95Anyone says the word &quot;ogee&quot; <br>&gt; =
=95A city or local inspector appears <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Finish your drink =
if:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =95Steve breaks anything <br>&gt; =95They actually =
finish a house project <br>&gt; =95Bob Vila appears on the screen at the =
<br>&gt; same time as Steve and Norm <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Finish the whole =
bottle if:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =95Norm breaks anything <br>&gt; =95Anyone =
gets arrested for violations <br>&gt; of historic district zoning =
<br>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Don't get hammered!<br><br></p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1679.B3A944C0--



From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:32:59 EST 1997
Article: 183007 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.stealth.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!198.147.221.35!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Message-ID: <8D1A3C4.023301247C.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 16:04:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
References: <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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Gettin irritated over Junkmail may mean you have deep rooted
pshchological problems,Learn to play in the schoolyard an dont worry be
happy.........................
                                        Dr Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:00 EST 1997
Article: 183008 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!hunter.premier.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!198.147.221.35!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Message-ID: <8D1A3BD.023301247A.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 15:57:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Yer lawyers will need that guard if you dont.
                                              Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:01 EST 1997
Article: 183009 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.stealth.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!198.147.221.35!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SCROLL SAW PATTERNS
Message-ID: <8D1A3D1.023301247D.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 16:17:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
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If you live near a Public library you can get 100s of plans for free!
Also get a 20$ Projecting Lamp from Michaels crafts to use to BLOWUP
designs outta books n stuff,Also if yer into pukey critters buy some
kiddie Colorin books! Yeah theyre loaded with cartoons that make great
pukey critters like Tubby elephants,Ducks,Cats,Clowns,etc etc ad
pukatorium...hehe..I luv my scrollsaw and have found many uses for it
other than cuttin wood,So has PAT SPIELMAN he has a free book he can
send ya loaded full-o plans and hot info! Get his address outta ANY
woodworking magazine and request one,Also FWIW you can get FREE catalogs
of stuff from Winfields,an many others,,Here is my idea--Take big,cheap
sponges or Foamboard and cut images,letters,numbers etc outta them with
your saw,,Then take those spongey boogers an dip em in paint to make
Stencil like images only better,,Also use Scrollsaw to make SHADOW BOXES
outta foamboard! Also Cut letters outta hardwoods and glue em to special
cut boards to create 3D signs! Also while yer at it checkout your local
Cabinet shops for free wood! They throw it away by the Ton!
                                                Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:02 EST 1997
Article: 183010 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.stealth.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!198.147.221.35!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Quartz movements for clocks
Message-ID: <8D1A3D7.023301247E.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 16:23:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
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Why not just Wire up a clock to your own designed switch? There are a
zillion types of switches like
Knife,Toggle,Pushpull,Pushbutton,rotary,etc and im sure a inventive
person could build sumpin much better than whats available....
                                      Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:03 EST 1997
Article: 183011 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bedroom furniture plans
Message-ID: <8D1A3D8.023301247F.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 16:24:00 -0600
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Try the Barnes n Noble bookstores for SW furniture plans
                                                Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:04 EST 1997
Article: 183012 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing a table
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Goto SEARS hdwr an buy a set of legs,OR learn how to cut Cabriole legs
on a bandsaw! Im not kiddin there is info existing that shows how!
                                                 Lee Ward

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From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:05 EST 1997
Article: 183013 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Storing/Stacking scraps & extra lumber
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 13:35:17 GMT
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Here's a slightly different way to do this: use 4x4 for your
verticals, about every three or four feet. Attach them to the wall or
to the ceiling joists as suggested below (to the side of joist is
fine). Then drill 1" holes into the 4x4s where you want the
horizontals, about 3" deep, and use lengths of 1" rigid electrical
conduit for the horizontals. The conduit I bought fit nicely in the
holes made by my 1" spade bit. I used a chalk line to get them level
and in line.

DM



ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen) wrote:

>In article <01bc138f$56e301a0$5ac9a4c6@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>,
>Abacab <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>Does anyone have any great concepts, inventions, or unproven ideas for the
>>storing of lumber in the shop?  I was considering building a large
>>multi-shelf unit to allow easy access and support of the wood, with doors
>>to keep some of the dust off.
>>

>I built a storage rack out of 2x4s. I used doubled 2x4s for the vertical
>supports and screwed them to the joists in the shop ceiling.
>I cut a 3/4" deep rabbet out of the ends so they fit together
>with the ceiling joist in the center.
>Groan- time for ascii art I guess:

>		   x x
>		   x x
>                   x x
>		__ x x__
>                | |x x| |
>		| |x x| |
>		|   ||  |
>		|   ||  |


>The vertical members are 16" apart. The horizontal members are
>~2 ft long sections of 2x4 captured in dadoes in the vertical
>members. The dadoes are about an 1/2" deep and 3" wide and fit
>into notches in the horizontal pieces:

>          |  ||  |
>          |  ||  |
>          | _||_ |
>          | |  | |
>          | |  | |
>          | |__| |
>          |  ||  |
>          |  ||  |

>	Vertical member front view


>	 ___     _______________________
>	|   |____|                      |
>        |                               |
>        |    _____                      |   
>        |___|    |______________________|
>        
>        Notched Horizontal member side view.

>I made the horizontal pieces about 2 ft apart.

>The rack greatly improved organization in the shop and seems very
>strong. It's currently holding a pile of wood.

>I don't know why you'd want shelves or doors. The open structure
>makes it easier to get at the wood and accomodate various lengths 
>and widths of lumber.

>>Also, what about the smaller scraps?  Although I'm a Canadian, and we
>>perhaps don't have the deep rooted Yankee thrift, we don't like the idea of
>>throwing pieces away that might come in handy (not to mention the higher
>>tax rate we must endure for all the socialist programs many in our nation
>>have become dependent on that we must pay for). :-)
>>

>Scraps are where my organizational system breaks down. I have various 
>heaps. One heap is small pieces of nice hardwoods that could 
>possibly, but most probably won't, be used for inlays, handles,etc.
>Another heap is larger pieces, that could conceivably be turned into
>small items - ring boxes etc.
>Then there's a heap for jigs, scrap wood, and the fireplace.
>Underneath each heap is (probably) a cardboard box.
>I'm working on burning up as much as I can this winter, since
>having some frugal New England Yankee blood in me, I can't
>throw much of anything out.

>Hope this helps.

>Carl

>Just say (Tm Patrick Leach): And then there's my box of used sandpaper
>			     scraps......
>>Kind Regards,
>>
>>Dan Hamill
>>
>> 


>-- 
>Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
>Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
>AT&T Business Communications Services
>307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
>Lincroft, NJ 07738




From aupperle@engr.usask.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:06 EST 1997
Article: 183014 of rec.woodworking
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From: Reg Aupperle <aupperle@engr.usask.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 10" Crafstman Radial Arm Saw for Sale ****Good Deal *****
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 10:23:34 -0800
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10" Radial arm saw for sale. Haven't used for the past 3 years. Has 
capability to run a planner off of the drive shaft. It is the cabinet 
series saw. 60 tooth blade and a stand with a door for storage. Paid 
$800.00 asking $400.00. phone 934-1623 e-mail aupperle@engr.usask.ca


From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:06 EST 1997
Article: 183015 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: advice on MDF
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 13:38:18 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Why not sheetrock? It will be much cheaper and easier to hang. I can't
imagine wanting to countersink all the screws necessary to hang MDF on
the lid... but if you do, seal it (including edges after you cut each
piece) and don't use a water-based product on it--it will fuzz up on
you...

DM

ken <100611.1526@compuserve.com> wrote:

>A friend wants to panel his bathroom and is thinkng of MDF (due to
>cheapness). I'm not sure whether it will cope with humidity.

>Does anyone have any experience of say, sealing BOTH sides before
>hanging it??




From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:07 EST 1997
Article: 183016 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Q:  How to Repair Broken Chair Seat?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 13:42:05 GMT
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Disassemble the chair, get the seat off of it, break it apart at the
already-starting-to-break line, and reglue it. If there is a tight fit
where the crack is developing you can probably get away with epoxy for
glueup. Don't buy the shitty kind in a syringe at the hardware store.
It would be wise to find someone with a biscuit cutter or dowelling
jig to cut a little joinery for you (and give you the dowels/biscuits)
before gluing up, if at all possible.


bandrew <bandrew@eaglequest.com> wrote:

>I am not sure if this is the proper newsgroup (if not, can someone
>direct me the right way?), but my next project is to reglue the chairs
>of our dining roo0m table.

>The chairs are about 30 years old, never been repaired (I inheritied the
>dinig room set from mom and dad).  A good portion of the joints on the
>legs are loose and in need of cleanup and re-gluing.  That part I can
>handle, where I am running into problems is with one of the armed
>chairs: the seat is cracked thru the joint where the front, verticle,
>arm support meets the chair seat.  The seat is ablut 1 1/2 inches thick
>and made of pine (Ethan Allen).  The edges of the cracked wood are
>rough.  The chair is still intacked, but I need to fix it before it
>falls completely apart.  How do I do it?

>bb
>Britt
>bandrew@eaglequest.com




From samndave@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:08 EST 1997
Article: 183017 of rec.woodworking
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From: samndave@ix.netcom.com(David Heatherly)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 9 Feb 1997 16:39:06 GMT
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In <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev)
writes: 
>
>
>All of us guys using asterisks, 'remove this to replys' etc are
>getting nowhere. Got an offer today from a guy who admitted to
>pulling my address off this group. I was vainly hoping that these
>scum sucking gutter-snipes had some program or something that would
>pull off addresses in batches. But now I see that these guys read 
>thru articles and take the time to get our addresses correct.
>Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5 unwanted offers
>a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a day.
>Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short
>of going totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.
>
>stev
>
>stev@ix.netcom.com

    That depends upon the nature of the "spam". I am sure that some of
what you are getting is of the types that the various services do not
allow.  Often you can shut them down by complaining to your service and
the service of the sender. For instance the address for netcom is:

        abuse@ix.netcom.com

    I personally have recieved several notices where the spammer has
been shut down at least on that service. Also reputable companies that
use a form of direct email will give you at the bottom of the message
the directions to remove yourself from the list. This is a method that
is hit and miss. My success rate is about 50%.  If we all start using
this tactic we should start to see a lessening of the spam.  I am down
to maybe 5 messages a week. If you can you may want to upgrade your
email program to something like eudora light where you can see the
headers and just delete them with out reading......David Heatherly



From dwlitke@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:09 EST 1997
Article: 183018 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Litke <dwlitke@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: back issues Fine Woodworking
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 09:37:03 -0700
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I'm looking for issues 71-102 of Fine Woodworking.


From YXFX27A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:10 EST 1997
Article: 183019 of rec.woodworking
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From: YXFX27A@prodigy.com (Jimmie Motto)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: St Louis Woodworking Show
Date: 9 Feb 1997 16:38:49 GMT
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jcorcora@fgi.net (John Corcoran) wrote:
>
>I'll be going to the show sunday 2/9/97.   If anyone who has been to it 

>already this year could comment on the bargains to seek and scams to 
>avoid I would appreciate it.   Any pointers at all could really be 
>service and time saver to all who may read the responses to this 
>post.  
>I've been going for 6 years.   I plan to purchase a raised panel door 
>bit set with cove & bead for 1/2 inch router.

 I went fri. a.m. and the place was literally shoulder to shoulder inside.
 Eagle Sales is running a couple of specials on  their bits, including 
the bits you mentioned. They're also selling bits at a buy 3 get the 4th 
for free deal, so last week I posted a ? about the quality and recieved 7 
responses--5 good and 2 bad reviews. Based on this, I worked my way to 
their booth, got what I wanted, Tried to wander around and watch those 
guys using all those jigs and fences they have for sale, (they always 
make it look sooo easy) but the place was just too crowded so I spent 
less time than usual. Probably less money also.
   oh yeah.. those 4 bits??
    1/2x1/2 spiral upcut
    2" flush cutter
    3/16 beading bit
   and a small molding bit
   and thanks to all who responded to the questionaire.
Jim Motto




From Brawny@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:11 EST 1997
Article: 183020 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Brian A. Glass" <Brawny@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Japanese tools in N.H.
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 12:08:51 -0800
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I have heard that there is a Japanese tool supplier/store in the Concord
N.H. area. I live in the Boston area an would love to have a local
supplier that I could visit. Can anyone help? E-mail to:
Brawny@concentric.net


From cdub@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:12 EST 1997
Article: 183021 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 11:31:04 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Re: Favorite (Best) Woodworking Books?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855509019.7503@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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In article <32FAAFD8.3DC@webspan.net>,
  dougr@webspan.net wrote:
>
> Jeff Joslin wrote:
> >
> > In article <855230993.29048@dejanews.com>, likesj@heidelberg-emh2.army.mil
> > wrote:
> >
> > >I would like to begin compiling a small (10 - 15) library of woodworking
> > >books.  I would appreciate any suggestions from the group.  TIA
> >
>

"The Table Saw Book," Kelly Mehler, Taunton Press. Bought the book,
started ripping some fine Home Depot 5/4 pine, the first board opened up
>from  being improperly stored, jammed against the fence.  Kelly's
recomendation for a "half fence" adaptor saved the day in the five
minutes it took me to fab one.	$25.00, paid for itself immediately.

Kelly places a greater emphasis on safe setup than I've seen elsewhere. 
No jigs or fixtures without some sort of well thought out guard.  What're
your fingers and hands worth compared to the measly price of this book?

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From janecek@tezcatttttt.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:13 EST 1997
Article: 183022 of rec.woodworking
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From: janecek@tezcatttttt.com (Jim Janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ambient Air Cleaners
Date: 9 Feb 1997 17:39:45 GMT
Organization: Personal Effects Inc
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References: <19970203111801.GAA23138@ladder01.news.aol.com> <5ddm66$8un@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca> <32FC033A.52E2@wysiwyg.net> <32FD60E3.7AB0@mosquitonet.com>
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We use a HEPA filter (Honywell) in addition to the dust collector.

We've also adapted a $180 HEPA filter to use as a welding fume /smoke collector.
Works pretty good considering the alternatives cost $2000.

Several other cabinetmakers I know hang $10 box fans from the ceiling and
strap a 2" 25x25 furnace filter over the intake.
They leave them on 24 hrs a day.

Spray a little spray adhesive (like spray mount)  over the filter to
capture finer particles.

I just started reading this group- excuse me if this has been covered before.

-- 
Jim Janecek
return e-mail adress is false to prevent spamming
try e-mailing me at :
janecek@tezcat.com


From jgu13@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:14 EST 1997
Article: 183023 of rec.woodworking
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From: jgu13@aol.com (JGU13)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RAISED PANEL DOOR HELP?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 17:52:45 GMT
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I am looking for some company names who make cabinet doors to custom
sizes.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.  Please email to  
jgu13@aol.com


From PNealy@Erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:15 EST 1997
Article: 183024 of rec.woodworking
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From: PNealy@Erols.com (Pat Nealy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 13:26:45 -0500
Organization: Sensible Business Systems
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I have the Jet (having replaced a Ryobi) and I am very happy with it.
While I and others have had various luck with Sears tools, the variance is
not from tool to tool, but from time to time. I am reasonably pleased with
the tools I still have from Sears that are >7 yrs old. Anything newer, and
I have been either dissapointed or frustrated.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Pat Nealy


From hdsherwin@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:16 EST 1997
Article: 183025 of rec.woodworking
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From: hdsherwin@aol.com (HDSherwin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 18:29:53 GMT
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I guess if you don't want to comply with electrical code you could use as
many outlets as you want, but the NEC limits you to 13 on a 20A circuit.
(Many electricians limit it to about 7 or 8.)


From fischer@cet.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:17 EST 1997
Article: 183026 of rec.woodworking
From: "Fischer" <fischer@cet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wooden whistles
Date: 9 Feb 1997 18:15:45 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183026

We are looking for some guidance in making wooden whistles using reeds,
rather than the old policeman "ball" kind of whistles.  Any guidance on
where to go, what to read, or who to talk to would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Chris Fischer
fischer@cet.com


From brokearrow@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:18 EST 1997
Article: 183027 of rec.woodworking
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From: brokearrow@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Getting board and looking for some thing new to read
Date: 9 Feb 1997 18:50:20 GMT
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I have been reading this news group for a while now, I'm sure not as long
as some.  I have been through the TS questions, the spam crap, and the
which router to buy.  I realize that this info is necessary and I have
found it very inforitive.  I was just wondering if someone is doing any
intresting projects they would like to tell us about.  I have heard a lot
of requests for plans and such, but know up dates on the projects.

Thanks,
              Eric
brokearrow@aol.com


From wwoods@texas.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:19 EST 1997
Article: 183028 of rec.woodworking
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From: wwoods@texas.net (William R. Woods)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Turned Pens
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:52:25 GMT
Organization: Texas Networking, Inc.
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I use an 8" wooden glue clamp as my blank drilling jig.  You know the
type, jaws are approx 2" square with tapered clamping ends and two
threaded screws for tightening and loosening.  I adjust the clamp for
the width of the blank, sitting on my drill press table.  I use a
small square to keep the blank perpendicular in the axis parallel to
the clamp.  When clamped, the blank and the clamp form a single unit
that I center by eye under the drill bit.  With a wooden backstop, I
drill the blank, and loosen the front screw to release the blank.  I
pre-cut all my blanks, and it takes less than 30 seconds to drill a
blank from start to finish, even being careful about chip extraction.
You can really fly through a bunch of blanks with this setup and the
blank never spins loose.  It is very safe, and very simple.

Woody

Rod Danner <danner@webnology.com> wrote:

>I enjoy making turned pens, as do many woodworkers.  They make great
>gifts, etc.  I find it a real nuisance to set up the drilling operation
>on my Shopsmith (I usually use horizontal boring).  Does anyone have any
>creative ideas for a jig to hold the blank for drilling?  I haven't come
>up with a good solution other than purchasing a sliding machinist's
>vise.  There was a fairly good idea in "Woodsmith", but it was only for
>one size of blank.  I like to use a wide variety of woods and sizes.

>Any Ideas would be appreciated.




From luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca Sat Feb 15 11:33:20 EST 1997
Article: 183029 of rec.woodworking
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From: luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca (Luigi Zanasi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:21:10 GMT
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Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy) wrote:

>You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
>can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
>.95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 

Yeah but, running an electric heater and a power tool on the same
circuit could blow it. Remember, Rich is in Manitoba, probably in the
city Canadians affectionately call Winterpeg. ;-) Besides, the
Canadian Electrical Code specifies a maximum of 12 outlets (plug-ins
and lights) per 15 amp circuit. 

And you can't use 20 amps circuits in Canada. It's also cheaper to use
15 amps, because you can use 14 gauge wire rather than the 12 gauge I
believe is needed for 20 amps.

Luigi

>On Thu, 06 Feb 1997 18:45:01 -0600, umkula00@cc.umanitoba.ca (Rich
>Kula) wrote:
>
>>I am doing a wire-upgrade in my workshop outside. I have just built a new
>>workbench and it is a pain in the butt trying to always bend down and
>>crawling over this and that..Word to the WISE: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENUFF
>>OUTLETTS!!!!




From donda@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:21 EST 1997
Article: 183030 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Don" <donda@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta router / shaper problems
Date: 9 Feb 1997 19:25:00 GMT
Organization: The Linda Group
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I bought the Delta router / shaper table a few months ago. I agree with
other posting regarding problems with height adjustment and the fence. I
intended for it to replace a home made router table that worked fine, but
was not very convenient to use, but now I'm not so sure.

I am having problems with the simplest of operations. I get much more
'chatter' than with my old table, which had a much smaller motor. I find
that I have to apply considerably more force to the wood to move it across
the bit. I can reduce the chatter by making many shallow passes, but I
expected to need less passes, rather than more with this machine. I believe
that my bits are sharp (they are new and carbide tipped).

One other particularly scarey problem is that while the piece is chattering
its way through the bit, it will be grabbed with enough force to move the
fence. This is a pretty violent event. I now really tighten it down, but I
don't want to break the handle, or distort the table.

One of the most common operations I do on the router table is to cut dados
(1/2" to 3/4"). An example is cutting the slots in a drawer side for side
hung drawers. I do this by setting the fence a few inches back from the
bit. I have experienced the grabbing and chatter most during this type of
operation.

I suspect that all this is caused by the fact that the bit rotates at a
much lower speed in the Delta than in my previous setup. If I recall, the
Delta spins a about 10,000 RPM, while my old router does something like
20,000. I think they use this slow speed to handle larger diameter bits.

I am misusing this machine? Any suggestions on how to eliminate the chatter
and grabbing? Or should I just use my old router table except for when
using really big bits (which I never use)?




From davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:22 EST 1997
Article: 183031 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David B. Goldstein" <davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old Glue
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 11:36:40 -0800
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Mike Glennon wrote:
> 
> If they've been frozen their trash.
> 
> Mike G. (mtcowboy@marsweb.com)
> Lolo Mt.
> 
> RPierce700 wrote:
> >
> > I have 2 or 3 bottles (1/2 full) of titebond glue setting in the shop that
> > are thick and can't squeeze out of the bottle. They have been frozen and
> > just seem dried out.
> > Is there something I can do for them or are they trash?
Afraid their trash but you might be able to save the bottles which could
be useful.


From ac258@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Feb 15 11:33:23 EST 1997
Article: 183032 of rec.woodworking
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From: ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which router for a beginner
Date: 9 Feb 1997 19:35:30 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
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Gary S. Butler (books1@primenet.com) wrote:

: I agree with one of the earlier posts in this thread: Get a set of CMT
: bits. I have several sets and they perform flawlessly. They even have
: an E-mail address: cmtools@packet.net. Enjoy.
: P.S. I'm partial to the Porter Cable 691.




: jrankin@internetMCI.com (John) wrote:

: >Without question, the Bosch 1613 EVS

: >Great reviews from the Mags, and owners like me.

: >Once you use the micro adjust, you will never regret it,

: >John
: >lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) wrote:

: >>Try readin some Router manuals [free at library] and after readin them
: >>you should know what ya need,,I will say this tho ROUTERS ARE FUN!
: >>Imagine makin 1001 things with yer router!  Routers can make wood git up
: >>an dance! Buy a High quality name brand when ya figger out which type
: >>you need and remember the BITS will end up Costing far more than the
: >>router did before yer thru.
: >>                                   Lee Ward
: >>
: >>-----------------------------------------------------------------
: >>CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
: >>         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
: >>-----------------------------------------------------------------
: >>
Harvey Freeman ac258@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

Above all I would recommend a router that will accept 1/2" and 1/4" bits using 
dedicated collets.  Something in the 1.5HP range should be good.  Also as others 
have said the HSS bits are useless unless you know you are going to use that 
particular bit very little.  The price difference between the two shank diameters 
is very little but the strength of the 1/2" is much more than the 1/4".




--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From Plecostamus@fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:24 EST 1997
Article: 183033 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:18:23 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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On Sat, 08 Feb 1997 10:03:57 +0000, Jeff Gorman
<Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>
>Joe Watkins wrote:
>
>~  I am just curious... when I submit a request for info etc. Do you
>~  expect or require or appreciate a reply to your offered advice/help?
>~  
>~  I have asked a few newbie questions and I have gotten some good info
>~  in return.  I am not sure wether or not to reply with thanks or send
>~  an email to the person or persons that have generously offered their
>~  two cents.  How do you all feel?
>
>I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
>take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
>and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
>reply.
>
>Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
>by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
>
>Jeff
>-- 
>Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
>jeff@millard.demon.co.uk
Well, it seems that we have a varied opinion on my question, but most
feel some sort of recognition is a good thing.  My resolution to all
that submitted is that if I am simply going to send a thanks, I will
do it by email.  If I have more to offer or say, I will do it via this
NG. BTW I always send a reply to an email as I feel that the person
that sends it is being a little more personal and I appreciate their
efforts as well as the ones that reply in the NG.  I do feel that
their comments would be good for the NG as well as to me directly and
would encourage them to reply through the NG as well.  I don't want to
forward their comments without approval as I consider that in poor
taste.  I will sometimes take enough liberty to share their thoughts
anonymously though.... I heard from someone who....etc.

** JOE **



From Plecostamus@fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:24 EST 1997
Article: 183034 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:39:56 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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On 8 Feb 1997 06:47:58 GMT, *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev) wrote:

>
>All of us guys using asterisks, 'remove this to replys' etc are
>getting nowhere. Got an offer today from a guy who admitted to
>pulling my address off this group. I was vainly hoping that these
>scum sucking gutter-snipes had some program or something that would
>pull off addresses in batches. But now I see that these guys read 
>thru articles and take the time to get our addresses correct.
>Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5 unwanted offers
>a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a day.
>Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short
>of going totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.
>
>stev
>
>stev@ix.netcom.com

Steve, I suspect that Spammers, in spite of being bottom feeders, have
some intelligence.  I noticed the proliferation of the asterisk scheme
and privately wondered when the Spammers would train their bots to
seek that out and strip it off.  When I went to the use of a
pseudonym, all my junk mail stopped.  Mind you, there could be the
enterprising Spammer that will indeed read messages to get my actual
email address, but I feel that it will be fairly uncommon.  These scum
like to deal en masse and don't have the time to repeatedly search out
individuals.  I suspect that if you were to put a more complex set as
your "lead" charcters, you will be safe for a while. Try something
like *&^% or somesuch.  That may not be as effective if they are
stripping non-alpha characters.  You can also try the pseudonym as I
have. works for me so far! ( Will probably get spam now as this IS a
bit of a challenge to some).

** JOE **
 BTW I have my SIG as an OPTION.  If I want to be fairly anonymous, I
just don't send it.




<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From Ludwiggv@AOL.COM Sat Feb 15 11:33:25 EST 1997
Article: 183035 of rec.woodworking
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Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <970208213451_-1676696163@emout01.mail.aol.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 21:34:52 -0500
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: "George V. Ludwig" <Ludwiggv@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: 12" DeWalt Miter
Lines: 2
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183035

Don't be in too big of a hurry to buy that refurbished saw.  I just bought a
brand new DW 705 12 in Dewalt for $269.00.  It pays to shop around and use
the distributors lowest cost guarantee to your advantage.


From feliixx@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:26 EST 1997
Article: 183036 of rec.woodworking
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From: feliixx@aol.com (Feliixx)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: carpenters toolbox- new design
Date: 9 Feb 1997 20:04:08 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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old chippie now doing a design and technology degree has spent last 6
months redesigning the toolbox. Hangs on the wall and/or portable. Plans
etc available for small fee. (trying to pay my way through college) For
further details give me an e mail on.   feliixx@aol.com


From *stev@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:27 EST 1997
Article: 183037 of rec.woodworking
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From: *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Getting board and looking for some thing new to read
Date: 9 Feb 1997 19:55:18 GMT
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>I have been reading this news group for a while now, I'm sure not as long
>as some.  I have been through the TS questions, the spam crap, and the
>which router to buy.  I realize that this info is necessary and I have
>found it very inforitive.  I was just wondering if someone is doing any
>intresting projects they would like to tell us about.  I have heard a lot
>of requests for plans and such, but know up dates on the projects.
>
>Thanks,
>              Eric
>brokearrow@aol.com

Well, this weekend Im building a fishtank stand for a friend. Got it
all together before I realized I mixed the 3 front panels. So today
Im building some overlay panel doors that overlay a bit more than I
had planned on. Thank god for full overlay doors!  ;)

stev




-- 
If replying by mail, remove the 
asterisk* from my email address. 
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From wtrider@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:28 EST 1997
Article: 183038 of rec.woodworking
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From: wtrider@earthlink.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Handyclub of America
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 17:53:36 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183038

Has anyone heard of the Handyman Club of America and what type of
organization is behind it?



From Plecostamus@fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:29 EST 1997
Article: 183039 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:57:45 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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I see note after note asking for plans this or that. I see some who
reply that they built one, but never offer to share the plans.  Why is
this?  Due to the binary problem?  Not knowing how to get the plans
into binary form?  Too much trouble?  No plans exist, just in your
head?

I suspect some of all  of the above, but I think we could improve the
breed with a little cooperation.  Most plans that I have seen could
use a little tinkering here and there.  Norm usually changes the basic
plan he is working with to improve the item or at least make it better
for some reason. Sharing is a good way to keep improving.

I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
and  gals think it would be a contribution. 

I have chased all over the Web in search of plans and I usually find
nothing like I am interested in or nice pictures of something someone
built but doesn't have plans for.  I also hate to buy plans for
somthing I cannot see.  Like back issues of mags.  I sure they won't
be a total waste, but my resources are finite!

I also tried ordering info from Creative Crafts.  3 months and 2 phone
calls and no info!

Any comments??

** JOE **

<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From mike2m@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:30 EST 1997
Article: 183040 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike2m@pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:11:54 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:

>I see note after note asking for plans this or that. I see some who
>reply that they built one, but never offer to share the plans.  Why is
>this?  Due to the binary problem?  Not knowing how to get the plans
>into binary form?  Too much trouble?  No plans exist, just in your
>head?

>I suspect some of all  of the above, but I think we could improve the
>breed with a little cooperation.  Most plans that I have seen could
>use a little tinkering here and there.  Norm usually changes the basic
>plan he is working with to improve the item or at least make it better
>for some reason. Sharing is a good way to keep improving.

>I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
>use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
>I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
>and  gals think it would be a contribution. 

>I have chased all over the Web in search of plans and I usually find
>nothing like I am interested in or nice pictures of something someone
>built but doesn't have plans for.  I also hate to buy plans for
>somthing I cannot see.  Like back issues of mags.  I sure they won't
>be a total waste, but my resources are finite!

>I also tried ordering info from Creative Crafts.  3 months and 2 phone
>calls and no info!

>Any comments??

>** JOE **

><<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
>unwanted email when you leave a message in a
>newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
>just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>
I have a scanner and would be willing to scan any non copy written
plans
Mike



From bill@SNET.NET Sat Feb 15 11:33:31 EST 1997
Article: 183041 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill <bill@SNET.NET>
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Lines: 18
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183041

At 09:53 AM 2/6/97 -0500, Susan G. Kanter wrote:

>I've been looking for Norm on HGTV and haven't been able to find him
>yet.  What time & day is he on??
>
>TIA
>--
>Susan Kanter                    email: kanter@sgi.com
>Course Developer                phone: 810.848.4452
>Global Customer Education       fax:   810.848.5600
>Silicon Graphics, Inc.          V-net: 6.327.4452
>
>The tragedy of life doesn't lie in not reaching your goal.
>The tragedy lies in having no goal to reach.
>
>

7:30pm  monday, wednesday, and friday.  He's also on during the day, not
sure what time.


From butzi@wserv.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:32 EST 1997
Article: 183042 of rec.woodworking
From: "F and ML Butzi" <butzi@wserv.com>
Subject: Re: Problem with Saw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <32FCB21E.4558@nolansys.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183042

	I just had another thought---have you checked the voltage on your
electrical supply?  It might be that you're not getting enough horsies to
do the job.

			Fred




From gpotte@IBM.NET Sat Feb 15 11:33:33 EST 1997
Article: 183043 of rec.woodworking
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From: G Potter <gpotte@IBM.NET>
Subject: Re: AOL & REC.WOODWORKING & etc
Lines: 9
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183043

RBowles96 wrote:
>
> Couple of hours later tried the local number again and it worked.  No idea
> what happened, no notice. warning, "Thank you mam", anything.  Now the
> posting shows 746 and I can access 17!

I had the same problem with AOL. My solution was to drop AOL and hookup
with IBM.NET. No problems since!

GPotter


From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:34 EST 1997
Article: 183044 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Table
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:33:22 GMT
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Note so many asking about a router table and as I have plans posted on
my home page please take a look.  You don't need a lot of expense
outside of a proper base for your router to use same which can be
built out of waste material and contains room to hold most of your
router bits.  Also have a beautiful safty switch which I stole from
another idea but it's not listed.

Verne


From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:35 EST 1997
Article: 183045 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drawing program
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:33:37 GMT
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Use PaintShopPro it's excellent for this.

Verne

On Sat, 01 Feb 1997 08:00:17 -0500, Pete <ryssel@sprynet.com> wrote:

>Which program is the most common program used to make drawings for
>woodworking projects? I Used Corel Draw 4, but is where any other
>programs that would work better. Thanks



From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:36 EST 1997
Article: 183046 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router table insert
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:33:30 GMT
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Call Oak Park Enterprises for this sort of thing at 1-800-665-0252

Tell 'em Verne told you to call.  They have a very good router show
each week down our way.

Verne

On Sun, 02 Feb 1997 21:49:14 -0500, Larry Gould <larry_1@ids.net>
wrote:

>I've now got 2 routers (a fixed base and a plunge) and I am beginning to
>build a table. So... Where do I find the insert plate, how do i inlay it
>in the table, and how do i mount the router to it ensuring every thing
>is exactly centered. 
>
>thanks
>-larry



From cowger@core.rose.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:38 EST 1997
Article: 183047 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: cowger@core.rose.hp.com (Bryan Cowger)
Subject: Re: Quill lock on drill press
Sender: news@icon.rose.hp.com (News Administrator)
Message-ID: <E5Cru1.4zo@icon.rose.hp.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 20:34:48 GMT
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Organization: HP - Information Networks Division
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183047

: > Does anyone have any idea why a quill lock is only availale these days on
: high 
: > end drill presses? If you don't know what I'm talking about, it's a lever
: that 
: > allows you to lower the quill and lock it there. Some people I've asked
: about 

On my 12" Delta bench-top DP, an effective way to lock the quill down is
to rotate the depth stop dial back around the other way, and lock it
there (i.e. instead of stopping the quill from going down any further,
the quill stop prevents the quill from returning.)  

This works great for inserting a drum sander into a hole and stopping it
there.

Of course, if you require that the quill doesn't go up OR down, then this
won't work.

Bryan




From jlevin@paonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:39 EST 1997
Article: 183048 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
From: jlevin@paonline.com (John Levin)
Organization: Foobie Union
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183048

Well if we're going to have a totally useless thread that is a waste of 
bandwidth and bytes, I would rather have a discussion about recent Joanne 
Liebeler sightings. I did in fact see her on a recent national news broadcast 
doing a story that was semi-home improvement related. Boy. That Dean Johnson is 
probably kicking himself now. She looks great. Still perky as ever and still 
has my vote for the 'woman I'd most like to do a rehab job with in a 150 year 
old house'.



From tejas@APPLINK.NET Sat Feb 15 11:33:40 EST 1997
Article: 183049 of rec.woodworking
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From: Herb Blair <tejas@APPLINK.NET>
Subject: Liegh Dovetail Jig
Lines: 9
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183049

I am contemplating buying a Liegh Dovetail Jig.  I would like to hear from folks
out there that own them.
I would like to know how you use it most, thru dovetails or half-blind?
What kind of router are you using?  I have a Porter Cable 690 with plunge base.
What accessories should I consider? (guides, bits, etc.)
Where did you buy it?
Thanks in advance.

Herb
Dallas


From groberts@shore.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:41 EST 1997
Article: 183050 of rec.woodworking
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From: groberts@shore.net (GRoberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice On Linseed Oil
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:31:45 -0400
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> 
> As far as the continual darkening, I look at this as a feature.  Over the
> years the piece will gain a nice patina.  Of course this means you have to
> plan for it and feel that it's appropriate for the piece in question.  I
> wouldn't use it on an entertainment center that will go in my family
> room full of light colored furniture, but it's great for my bedroom full
> of dark Mission style furniture.

Scott et al...

although my objections to linseed oil are well known on the Oldtools
list... it is used and appreciated by many.  One of the problems related to
darkening is the tendency of some oil finishes to become laden with dirt as
time goes on.  Sometimes cleaning the surface of an old linseed oil finish
thoroughly with mineral spirits will produce a surprisingly lighter finish. 
Some people finish the linseed oil with a wax overcoat... the wax holds
even more dust and dirt as time goes on.  Again, a cleansing with mineral
spirits may remove the grungy wax coating and return the piece to a lighter
hue.

Gary Roberts
groberts@shore.net
Boston, MA


From levie@hiwaay.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:42 EST 1997
Article: 183051 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!HiWAAY.net!usenet
From: levie@hiwaay.net (Jim Levie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: jointer clamps?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 18:12:02 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
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On 9 Feb 1997 07:32:51 GMT, mayfilm@aol.com (Mayfilm) wrote:

>I saw in the Eagle America catalogue Jointer clamps. I can't afford a real
>jointer right now. Does anyone have any experience with these clamps. I'm
>building a table and the top needs to have jointed 5/4 red oak. I'm
>wondering if these clamps do a good job on a table saw.

There is generally quite a difference between a sawn and a jointed
edge, the jointed edge being considerably smoother. For a number of
years, before I acquired a jointer, I used a router and a series of
semi-precision straight guides as a substitute. And even now I'll use
them to joint boards longer than 5-6'. 

The guides were various lengths of heavy sheet metal formed into an
"L" shape for stability, with one 4" wide leg and a 1/2" leg. The
guide edge was as it came from the sheet metal shear and was used with
a bearing-over-bit straight cutter. I attached a 1/4 plywood spacer to
the underside of each guide with contact cement to provide clearance
for the cutter bearing. 


From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:43 EST 1997
Article: 183052 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ryobi plunge routers
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:33:44 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <33007eab.4077200@news.ftn.net>
References: <32F0BE3F.2D85@cs.umass.edu> <01bc0ee5$21d77800$89be19ce@overlord.dmv.com>
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Likewise here as I bought one that had been returned because the bit
was supposed to have slipped.  I can't speak well enough of it.  It's
the plunge type but not variable speed which I wish it was.  Got a
speed control that I use sparingly now.

Verne

On 30 Jan 1997 20:01:06 GMT, "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com> wrote:


>I've had a Ryobi 3hp variable speed plunge router since about the time they
>came out. That was the late eighties or early nineties  It's mounted in my
>router table, but I have used it as a portable. It has seen a lot of use
>and has not been a problem. I would buy another. 
>
>I like Ryobi tools and the ability to get answers through their support and
>parts people. I had a problem with the electronic brake on my 12 volt
>cordless drill two years ago and called their parts dept. in Florida. He
>told me a solution to try before I bought a new switch, which he said was
>the problem. So far I haven't had to buy the switch.
>-- 
>Best -- Frank
>
>



From TOASMAMMAN@AOL.COM Sat Feb 15 11:33:44 EST 1997
Article: 183053 of rec.woodworking
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
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Didn't see original post.  Where was it?  Would like info.

TOASMAMMAN@aol.com


From cowger@core.rose.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:45 EST 1997
Article: 183054 of rec.woodworking
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From: cowger@core.rose.hp.com (Bryan Cowger)
Subject: Re: HOW TO HANDLE THIS SPAM       Re: ! Need some extra cash? Read this.
Sender: news@icon.rose.hp.com (News Administrator)
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Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 20:44:02 GMT
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: Here is how I handle spam.  I forward the mail I receive to 'sysop' at the
: spammer's domain.  In other words if spam@inter.net sends me something I
: forward the whole thing to sysop@inter.net with a request that they inform
: their customer to stop sending me this crap.  One of the customers with my

This is good advice.  For more info on anti-spam techniques, I'd urge
people to send a blank message to "nospam@mailback.com" or check out
"http://www2.freecom.com/true/spam.html".  

What you'll receive is some great anti-spam information compiled by
Randy Cassingham (who writes the This is True articles).

Just say:  Spam sucks...



From jmfedora@cise.ufl.edu Sat Feb 15 11:33:46 EST 1997
Article: 183055 of rec.woodworking
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From: jmfedora@cise.ufl.edu (Justin M. Fedora)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sand Paper vs. Steel Wool
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:11:54 GMT
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What is better to use bwtween coats of urethane, steel wool or sand
paper?  I've heard people suggest both, but I have never received a
reason.

Also, where does steel wool grades lie within sand paper grades.  ie.
Is a 000 steel wool finer than 600 grit sand paper?

Thanks in advance.


From pmccarthy@highway1.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:46 EST 1997
Article: 183056 of rec.woodworking
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From: P McCarthy <pmccarthy@highway1.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Gazebo Plans?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 16:07:54 -0500
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I am looking for plans, photographs etc. for a gazebo  that can be
screened. Can anyone help me out? Or is there another news news group
where  this request might be more appropriate?


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:47 EST 1997
Article: 183057 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 9 Feb 1997 21:40:59 GMT
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Second the opinion expressed by Wooden.  Want to add if once a month or so
a summary of the "conventions" and where to go for FAQs were posted the
newbies could be aware of what others have agreed to.  Periodic posting of
the FAQs does take download time and unless you have a way to interrupt
you sit and wait.  comments?


From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:48 EST 1997
Article: 183058 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Verne Bohlender" <verneb@greynet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HowToBuildRouterTableetc
Date: 9 Feb 1997 19:23:04 GMT
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Check out my home page at Heartland/Plains for a good plan that is used on
several router shows.  simple to build and very low cost but very
efficient.
-- 
    *****************************************************************|
    |   Verne H. Bohlendeer             | verneb@greynet.net  |
    |   Box 416, Chesley, Ontario, Ca.                                    
|
    |   N0G 1L0                                   | 1-519-363-3027         
|
    |  Home page at       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
    ******************************************************************



From scoundrl@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:49 EST 1997
Article: 183059 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:44:51 GMT
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Several years ago, I made a plan available in this newsgroup for an Adirondack
chair and footstool.  The file is called jake.zip and is in my ftp site
ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl  

Jake.zip contains a text file oriented to the newer woodworker who might be
interested in building the chair.  It contains a discussion of woods, tools
and home-made gadgets that make the chair's building easier.  There are also
individual sheets of plans for each chair part.  They are to different scales
so that they fit nicely onto 8-1/2 X 11 paper when printed.  The idea is to
print out the individual plan drawings using a normal office printer and then
redraw the plans on pattern pieces.  This is covered well in the text file.

Finally, there are pictures of each of the chair's elevations, with the pieces
color coded and referenced to the drawings.  The pictures are really helpful
in not only deciding if the chair is worth building, they're also helpful when
some text might not be perfectly clear.

>From  the plan, I've had several THOUSAND thank-you's from folks who have
downloaded the plans.  Many have written to tell me of the chair's commercial
success and/or to tell me how much they've enjoyed building it as a family
project.  The results were very rewarding.

If  you DO decide to put a plan on the web, as I did, you should be prepared
for several things:

1) You will receive a LOT of e-mail from folks either thanking you, offering
suggestions (very much appreciated) and/or asking questions.  The questions
can be as basic as, "What's an FTP site?" to, "Can I use xxxx wood?"  

Be prepared to answer even the most basic question civally- and remember that
the folks writing are WOODWORKERS and not necessarily computer gurus.  

2) You will receive a lot of requests for you to e-mail the plans to folks who
either don't know how to use FTP or WWW and/or are behind firewalls.  I keep a
copy of jake.zip handy in my HD, and just automatically attach it when
requested.  If you're paying for online time by the minute, this can be
costly.  You'll also receive some requests for you to FAX or mail the plans.
There, I merely reply by e-mail that the plans are better handled by e-mail
attachment of FTP, attaching the file.  

3) I chose the pkzip format for the file, since an .exe file worries folks
because it can be infected with a virus.  On request, I use pkzip2exe and
convert it to jake.exe when the person asking for help seems particularly new
to computers or the net.

4) Be prepared for the occasional flame.  So far, I've had two- and both were
about my humor in telling folks how to get new tools.  Out of several thousand
e-mails, that isn't too bad.

5) Since the WORLD and not just the US will get your drawings, consider a
metric version.  I chose the easy route, and the plans were dimensioned in
DECIMAL FRACTIONS, such as 10.125"  This permits easier conversion by the user
to metric, should that be desired.  Pictures and drawings in the file are in
the ,jpg format.  I also created a version of the file that I named
jake_mac.zip for Macintosh users.  Frankly, I wish I'd never attempted this.
The files get disseminated to different sites so rapidly that its impossible
to "retract" a file once its put on the web.  Almost all of the problems users
have reported have been with that file.  In retrospect, I will never again
attempt to put something on the web for a Mac- instead, I will let the Mac
user convert the DOS/Windows files as he sees fit.  

Tom

There is a directory in my site called ftp_anno.txt that lists all files.
Many deal with shops or woodworking.



Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:

>I see note after note asking for plans this or that. I see some who
>reply that they built one, but never offer to share the plans.  Why is
>this?  Due to the binary problem?  Not knowing how to get the plans
>into binary form?  Too much trouble?  No plans exist, just in your
>head?

>I suspect some of all  of the above, but I think we could improve the
>breed with a little cooperation.  Most plans that I have seen could
>use a little tinkering here and there.  Norm usually changes the basic
>plan he is working with to improve the item or at least make it better
>for some reason. Sharing is a good way to keep improving.

>I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
>use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
>I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
>and  gals think it would be a contribution. 

>I have chased all over the Web in search of plans and I usually find
>nothing like I am interested in or nice pictures of something someone
>built but doesn't have plans for.  I also hate to buy plans for
>somthing I cannot see.  Like back issues of mags.  I sure they won't
>be a total waste, but my resources are finite!

>I also tried ordering info from Creative Crafts.  3 months and 2 phone
>calls and no info!

>Any comments??

>** JOE **

><<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
>unwanted email when you leave a message in a
>newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
>just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From carsod@rpi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:33:50 EST 1997
Article: 183060 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Carson <kitatt@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dewalt 625 Edge Guide on DW621
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 01:14:37 -0500
Organization: A poorly-installed InterNetNews site
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Tim S. Smith wrote:
> 
> While using my DW621 router recently I needed an edge guide.  According
> to Dewalt I can't buy one until this March.  Well I also have the DW625
> mounted in a table for which I had purchased the edge guide.  So I
> thought maybe this guide would work on the 621.  At first glance it
> wouldn't.  The guide rods were 3/8" versus the needed 1/4" and they were
> to far apart.  However, I then noticed that there was a second set of
> guide rod mounting holes on the edge guide.  Low and behold they were a
> 1/4"!  So I scrounged up a couple of pieces of 1/4" solid rod stock
> (found at most home supply stores) and the edge guide worked great on
> the 621!  So if you have the 625 Edge guide don't waste your money on a
> new one for the 621!
> 
> Tim
> 
> --
> Tim S. Smith                       |
> Scientist                          | Of course any opinions expressed
> Computational Chemistry & Biology  | or implied are solely mine - Not
> Procter & Gamble Pharmaceuticals   | that of... You get the idea.
> Cincinnati, Ohio 45252             |
Tim,

I posted earlier that I actually purchased a guide for the 625 for $10
at the Phila show. It works fine.

Kit


From wscott1678@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:51 EST 1997
Article: 183061 of rec.woodworking
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From: wscott1678@aol.com (WScott1678)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: will humidor mosture lift finish on outsi
Date: 9 Feb 1997 22:21:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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hi,
i have concidered making humadors for one of the local smoke shops.
do you have any plans that you can share ?  or know where i can find plans
to look at.  i would like to see a hand full of different plans to get an
idea of what is possible.

thanks

trav.


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:52 EST 1997
Article: 183062 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:18:42 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 03:07:19 GMT, Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan
Murphy) wrote:

>You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
>can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
>.95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 
>
>Alan

I'm not sure of the exact answer, but I'm pretty sure this is wrong.
My old NEC considers each receptacle outlet to have a load of 180
volt-amperes.  A 120 volt, 15 amp circuit would have a capacity of
120*15=1800 volt-amperes, for a maximum number of 10 receptacle
outlets per circuit.

There seems to be an exception for receptacles serving "plug- and
cord-connected equipment," but it doesn't make sense to me that the
exception would result in an unlimited number of allowable
receptacles.

I would be very interested in a definitive answer to this question.


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:53 EST 1997
Article: 183063 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:21:47 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
Lines: 18
Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <32fe4daf.25929211@news1.mnsinc.com>
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>> Paul Ephron wrote:
>> 
>> >Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
>> >so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
>> >drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
>> >holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
>> >plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
>> >stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
>> >hand drill. Thanks for any advice.
>

Maybe easier said than done, but if you can manage to drill only until
the point of the bit breaks through, and then complete the hole from
the other side, splintering will be greatly reduced.


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:54 EST 1997
Article: 183064 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:24:19 GMT
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Message-ID: <32fe4e26.26048129@news1.mnsinc.com>
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On 9 Feb 1997 12:19:02 GMT, djs2@well.com (Donald Stern) wrote:

>RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
>
>: I have never gotten an answer to the question of why this is not
>: always the case.  I have a cherry piece that has remained unfinished
>: for almost 2 years, with no appreciable darkening.  Explanation?
>
>Rick,
>
>The reason for your piece not darkening is probably due to the fact that
>it is in a location fairly sheltered from direct, appreciable uv sun
>light. I have some old redwood paneling that's hasn't darkened appreciably
>either because of its site. 
>

This makes sense, and it is in such a location.  Since it will always
be in such a location, then I will apparently have to do something to
darken in artificially, such as using stain, which I know is a hanging
offense if some recent posters were jury members...


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From panthony@netsource.co.nz Sat Feb 15 11:33:54 EST 1997
Article: 183065 of rec.woodworking
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From: patrick anthony <panthony@netsource.co.nz>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Sealing" exposed edges of MDF?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:46:38 +1300
Organization: Actrix Networks Limited
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John Straffin wrote:
> 
> I'm making a router table to out of some old solid-core door (1-1/2"
> MDF).  Any suggestions on what to do with the exposed wood in the
> center (where the polycarbonate insert will go) so that it doesn't
> chip away, fall apart, or succumb to moisture?
> - John C. Straffin
> straffin@evolveinc.com

John,

I worked as the Technical/R&D manager for a company that produces MDF
and now I am with a resin manufacturer that produces the glues for the
product. As far as sealing the edges of the panel, there are two main
reasons why you would do this,
1. To minimise any formaldehyde emissions, although most panels are E1
(< 10mgs/100gms ) and if not they should be.
2. To prevent water uptake from the air and accidental wetting. A sealer
will slow down the uptake of moisture from the atmosphere and make the
panel more dimensionally stable.

As for sealers, probably the best type are water based ones, such as an
acrylic undercoat, oil based are not effective with MDF as they get
entrained in the wax that is in the paneland give drying problems etc.
Polyurethane sealers are also quite effective.

I hope this helps you, I have only found this newsgroup and am concerned
a little with the lack of informed knowledge being posted about MDF.

Regards Pat Anthony
	<panthony@netsource.co.nz>


From plw@value.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:55 EST 1997
Article: 183066 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!not-for-mail
From: plw@value.net (Patrick L. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:11:18 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32ffed49.131298725@news.value.net>
References: <garyi-0601972153450001@p2s11.gwis.com>
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Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.




On Mon, 06 Jan 1997 21:53:45 -0400, garyi@gwis.com (Gary Ilijevich)
wrote:

;Does anyone know where I could get copies of
;The Router Workshop series on PBS?  It was
;hosted by Bob and Rick Rosendahl.  
;My PBS stations don't carry them.
;
;Thanks,
;Gary
;garyi@gwis.com
;
;-- 
;Gary
;garyi@gwis.com



From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:33:56 EST 1997
Article: 183067 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:33:12 GMT
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I just lately removed mine as I was having so much difficulty with
cutting the boxes I was working on.  Now I have a Delta and the guard
was working well but for the above reason I removed same.  Why don't
they make these guards so you can just temporarily disable them and
then bring them back into position to be used again.  

For my own protection and being scared stiff of them I stand to the
left of the cut so I'm well clear of any pieces that might kick back.
Any ideas on this subject would be appreciated as safty first is the
thing!
Verne
On 5 Feb 1997 10:56:15 GMT, "Donald H. Littrell" <w4vbh@preferred.com>
wrote:

>Is that because flying chips have removed your eyesight?  To operate a
>power tool without using available protection is fool-hardy.
>
>Duane Bartlett <sailorb@perigee.net> wrote in article
><01bc1308$47a6a160$88fee5ce@sailorb>...
>> The last time I saw my blade guard was when I saw the
>> saw in the place where I bought it.
>> D Bartlett
>> 



From camchase@gxl.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:57 EST 1997
Article: 183068 of rec.woodworking
From: camchase <camchase@gxl.com>
Organization: Woodtech Information Systems, Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183068

I made a decorative bench to place outside the front of my barn and have 
plans to paint it.  It is made of pine, so what should I put over the 
paint to keep it from the weather?  What is the best type of paint to 
paint it with?

Thanks in advance.  Please e-mail.

Camchase

Camaghey Chase Farms
Reg. Belgian Horses
Proudly standing "Leaskdale Conscent"



From almy@teleport.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:58 EST 1997
Article: 183069 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!ais.net!news.stealth.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.108.254.3!news.teleport.com!not-for-mail
From: almy@teleport.com (Tom Almy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith 5 ??
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 08:48:30 -0500
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <uWd/yMrC3EbW089yn@teleport.com>
References: <19970208185101.NAA28252@ladder01.news.aol.com>
 <32FD2CEE.53DE@sccoast.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip-pdx03-11.teleport.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183069

In article <32FD2CEE.53DE@sccoast.net>, Melvyn Cooper <cfp@sccoast.net> wrote:
>acroii@aol.com wrote:
>> Just attended their demo at a local mall.

>Having experienced a shopsmith, I can tell you that those guy's that do
>the demonstrations are not far short of being magicians.Mel

Now, now! If you spend as much time using one as the demonstrators do,
you'd be a "magician" too! As in most pursuits, practice makes perfect.

Tom Almy


From davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:33:59 EST 1997
Article: 183070 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David B. Goldstein" <davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Luan (I hope I spelled it correctly)
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 11:48:04 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
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References: <199702040920.EAA13877@nimbus.superior.net>
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Dave Lindsley wrote:
> 
> I just picked up a finished piece of 3/4" luan plywood.
> 
> What exactly is this stuff???  It is much cheaper than regular plywood.
> 
> I am considering using it for a plan which calls for Birch Plywood.
> Will this work?  It is a very nice even colored piece of plywood.
> The project will be painted anyways.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Feb 04, 97 12:00:47 AM
> Dave Lindsley
> http://www.superior.net/~davecl.html
> davecl@superior.net
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Compters are not intelligent, they only think they are.
Luan is otherwise known as "Phillipine Mahagony".  It is not a true
mahagony, not as dense.  It is fairly open grained wood.  Therefore,
birch or maple plywood would be a much better choice for a surface that
will be painted.  Both are closed, smooth grained woods that provide a
much better surface for painting.  You also might consider using MDF
which is cheaper than plywood and paints very nicely.


From mdwine11@themall.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:00 EST 1997
Article: 183071 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael" <mdwine11@themall.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shopsmith equip for sale!
Date: 9 Feb 1997 23:31:22 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <01bc16fa$47dc8280$1c020b26@default>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183071

In Northern Virginia area
Shopsmith Mark V; bandsaw w/extended table; joiner & power stand; Pro
Planer (stand alone); lets "talk" - email me directly 



From mdwine11@themall.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:01 EST 1997
Article: 183072 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: "Michael" <mdwine11@themall.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shopsmith equip for sale!
Date: 9 Feb 1997 23:35:49 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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In Northern Virginia area
Shopsmith Mark V; bandsaw w/extended table; joiner & power stand; Pro
Planer (stand alone); lets "talk" 
Would like to sell all to one place if possible...
- email me directly 
mdwine11@themall.net


From fico7@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:02 EST 1997
Article: 183073 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!uunet!in1.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: fico7@aol.com (Fico7)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: pre-painted wood cut-outs
Date: 9 Feb 1997 23:51:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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i am trying to find the manufacturer who makes pre-painted wood cut-outs
of ballerina tutus, hearts,  workout girl, cat...The company which has
them on their products is called AMBIDEXTROUS, INC., in Brooklyn, NY but
they will not sell them to me directly.  AMBI buys them from another
source which i am desperately trying to find. If anyone has any ideas i
would be eternally grateful!!!!
Please e-mail if you have any leads.

Thanking you in advance,
Cynthia


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:03 EST 1997
Article: 183074 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Norm's new toy?
Date: 9 Feb 1997 23:52:46 GMT
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Carl, were you able to determine what Suffolk meant by "flutter" with
respect to tension?  The blade I got seemed to flutter at full Delta
spring guage tension and when I backed off from there had no goal in
sight.  Couldn't get an answer to E-mail.  I intend to get another Suffolk
when the need arises.  Using it now at about 1/8" on the delta scale.


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:04 EST 1997
Article: 183075 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.ecn.uoknor.edu!news.ysu.edu!odin.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.gwis.com!usenet
From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet 1HP or 2HP Dust collector
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 17:25:32 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32FE4EDC.5EBB@gwis.com>
References: <32FBA075.1D0D@injersey.com> <19970208001300.TAA19044@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32FCB2F5.4BCC@gwis.com> <32fd3db0.90659575@netnews.worldnet.att.net>
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To: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183075

Alan Murphy wrote:
> 
> Jack.....
> 
> You know better than to make generalization like that....there are
> some terrificly efficient motors that pull 16 amps...
> 
I was referring to the original poster's claim that the since the motor
drew more amperage than the average 1.5hp unit, it was conservatively
rated. He was equating the higher amperage with more power which is just
not true.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From dicko@wormhole.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:05 EST 1997
Article: 183076 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!wormhole.com!dicko
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:22:21 -0500
Reply-To: Dick Merryman <dicko@wormhole.com>
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Dick Merryman <dicko@wormhole.com>
Subject: New Model Delta 12" Planer
In-Reply-To: <01bc0f2b$8d4bd9a0$71d9b7cc@dsmith>
Lines: 1
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183076

I keep seeing references to this planer but no data.  Anybody know what will be
different??


From DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net Sat Feb 15 11:34:06 EST 1997
Article: 183077 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: DNPIBEL <DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handyclub of America
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:25:31 -0800
Organization: Prodigy Internet
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32FE5CEB.7C8E@Prodigy.Net>
References: <5dl2up$qi3@colombia.earthlink.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183077

wtrider@earthlink.net wrote:
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Handyman Club of America and what type of
> organization is behind it?

I signed on with them just because it was a pretty cheap subscription to 
a possibly useful mag. Have got a couple of issues and it's a possibly 
useful mag, although its scope is much broader than woodworking mags 
(e.g., articles about roof venting, fixing faucets, etc.) It's prob. 
about $12 worth of info for $15 a year, which ain't bad these days.

Doug


From cring@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:07 EST 1997
Article: 183078 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: will humidor mosture lift finish on outsi
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:32:58 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32FE507D.72BB@concentric.net>
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To: WScott1678 <wscott1678@aol.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183078

WScott1678 wrote:
> 
> hi,
> i have concidered making humadors for one of the local smoke shops.
> do you have any plans that you can share ?  or know where i can find plans
> to look at.  i would like to see a hand full of different plans to get an
> idea of what is possible.
> 
> thanks
> 
> trav.

Go to http://theoak.com/gary/index.html and click on Odds And Ends
-- 
C.E."Chuck"Ring
Madera Encantada "Enchanted Wood"
e-mail to:cring@concentric.net
<http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html>



From ac258@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:07 EST 1997
Article: 183079 of rec.woodworking
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From: ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 00:15:12 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
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John Paquay (jep@physics.purdue.edu) wrote:
: In article <5d7jb0$7qr@news.paonline.com>, jlevin@nospam.paonline.com says...
: >
: >
: >
: >Better and/or faster is good. Come to think of it, I wonder whether a hot iron 
: >over the delaminated section would work on old contact cement. I know it works 
: >for new cement, but haven't tried it with old cement. That would be easiest of 
: >all, if it works.
: >

: Provided that the surfaces haven't been fouled by dirt, grease, etc.,
: this method usually does work, and it's a whole lot easier than tearing
: up a section of laminate big enough to work new cement into.  But if
: the iron doesn't work, your best solution would be to inject some
: Titebond II into the lifted area and clamp it down tight overnight... that's
: assuming, of course, that the lifting area is near an edge.

: Note that the hot iron method will melt the adhesive, but you should
: apply pressure to the area while it cools to make sure it the adhesive
: sets again as it should.  A cool, damp rag or towel works well for this,
: and speeds the cooling.

: -- 
: John Paquay
: jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
: http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
: -----------------------
: I know you believe you understand what you think I meant.
: But I'm not sure you realize that what you thought you heard
: is not what I said...

Harvey Freeman wrote on Sunday Feb. 8, 1997  ac258@chebucto.ns.ca

The original post does not say if the delaminated area is at an edge.  If 
it is in the middle of the sheet then none of the above work except maybe 
the iron if you do not over heat and blister the laminate.  A carpenter 
told me that he would drill a hole into the air bubble from the bottom 
without drilling into the plastic laminate.  This is easy with a precise 
depth gauge on the drill.  Use one of the spray contact cements which 
comes with a thin plastic tube addition for the nozzle to put cement into 
the air bubble.  Wait the required time and weight down the spot until cured.

Personally, I only had new work delaminate once and that was my first job 
because I read the directions and followed them too closely.  Now I put 
TWO coats of cement on the base material and one on the plastic 
laminate.  The first coat is actually a sealer because too much soaks 
into the material.

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:34:08 EST 1997
Article: 183080 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Tune <Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:38:45 +1000
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RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
> 
> >> Paul Ephron wrote:
> >>
> >> >Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
> >> >so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
> >> >drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
> >> >holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
> >> >plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
> >> >stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
> >> >hand drill. Thanks for any advice.

If circumstances allow, clamp it tightly between two pieces of scrap
timber, then drill through all three at once.
--
Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
              "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"


From AmyHunt@Hotmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:09 EST 1997
Article: 183081 of rec.woodworking
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From: Amy Hunter <AmyHunt@Hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkers Dream Home FSBO
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:46:19 -0800
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Hello :)
I don't know the exact URL, but you could try looking it up @ Dejanews.

Suzanne M. Ammann wrote:
> 
> Didn't see original post.  Where was it?  Would like info.
> 
> TOASMAMMAN@aol.com


From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:10 EST 1997
Article: 183082 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Billiard Table
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:27:04 GMT
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:15:30 GMT, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael
John Hide) wrote:

>Clayton Fopp <cfopp@nexus.edu.au> wrote:
>
>;Does anyonr know where I can get hold of or download plans for a
>;billiard table?
>;Clayton Fopp
>;Australia
>;cfopp@nexus.edu.au
>
>Just remember if you get one from the US that it will not be the same
>as  a real one[ UK type ],the tables here  are really pool tables
>which are smaller and have bigger  pockets which makes every thing
>much easier. Hey perhaps thats what you want.
>                      mjh
>

The man didn't ask about a pool table.  He asked about a billiard
table, which has no pockets, large or small.


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From mustache@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:11 EST 1997
Article: 183083 of rec.woodworking
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From: mustache@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:56:16 GMT
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Why would Dean kick himself?  He did not ask her to leave.  She left
to into standup comedy.

jlevin@paonline.com (John Levin) wrote:

>Well if we're going to have a totally useless thread that is a waste of 
>bandwidth and bytes, I would rather have a discussion about recent Joanne 
>Liebeler sightings. I did in fact see her on a recent national news broadcast 
>doing a story that was semi-home improvement related. Boy. That Dean Johnson is 
>probably kicking himself now. She looks great. Still perky as ever and still 
>has my vote for the 'woman I'd most like to do a rehab job with in a 150 year 
>old house'.
>



From dclaridg@awinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:12 EST 1997
Article: 183084 of rec.woodworking
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From: dclaridg@awinc.com (Derek Claridge)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scroll Sawed Children's Puzzle
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 01:06:29 GMT
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I made a children's puzzle with the scroll saw and was amazed at how
well it was received by the grand children!

Where can I find some patterns for puzzles?

I have this one with seven interlocking cats which I've scanned in.
Do you have one to trade?



From !muldrew@nbnetet.nb.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:13 EST 1997
Article: 183085 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Roots" <!muldrew@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 00:55:06 GMT
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> Todd  wrote:> 
> Isn't Formosa just a little bit south of Taiwan?
> 

Isn't the USA just a little bit south of Canada?


From edrich@halcyon.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:14 EST 1997
Article: 183086 of rec.woodworking
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From: edrich@halcyon.com (Ed Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Apologia & Explanation: Vices and Vises
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 01:00:31 GMT
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A

>	-- Andrew Barss and Andrew Barss


Excuse me, is that Barss or Bare ass?




From edrich@halcyon.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:15 EST 1997
Article: 183087 of rec.woodworking
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From: edrich@halcyon.com (Ed Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wooden whistles
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:57:57 GMT
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"Fischer" <fischer@cet.com> wrote:

>We are looking for some guidance in making wooden whistles using reeds,
>rather than the old policeman "ball" kind of whistles.  Any guidance on
>where to go, what to read, or who to talk to would be greatly appreciated!
You are in luck because this is the time of year when the sap starts
to flow in the willow trees. Go cut a piece of limb about 3/4 inch in
diameter and four or five inches long.  Rap on the bark in several
places and the bark will slip off the wood. Cut an air passage on top
of the wood in one end, notch out a vee shaped section in the wood
about an inch from the end-replace the bark sleeve and you will have a
whistle with which you can drive the neighborhood crazy.



From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:16 EST 1997
Article: 183088 of rec.woodworking
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From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 14:54:46 -0800
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Jeff Gorman wrote:

> Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.

I sometimes e-mail my response to assure that the original poster gets
another shot at getting the info. I went for quite a while before I
discovered Deja-News, it sure was embarassing to find out I was missing
so many posts. There is enough delivery trouble to justify the extra
bandwidth. 

Just my two cents worth, no flame intended,

John Ferrell in Julian NC




From 72406.3433@CompuServe.COM Sat Feb 15 11:34:16 EST 1997
Article: 183089 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Jackson <72406.3433@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: 10 Feb 1997 01:43:52 GMT
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I can not find rec.crafts.woodturning either.  I am using 
Compuserve for this newsgroup.  They do not seem to update the 
newgroup server or I am missing something.
	 Jim J.

-- 



From ddoty001@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:17 EST 1997
Article: 183090 of rec.woodworking
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From: ddoty001@aol.com (Ddoty001)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly tablesaw Model 1023
Date: 10 Feb 1997 01:55:25 GMT
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I purchased one about 6 months ago.  It is excellent.  I have compared it
to the Unisaw, and a General.  Could see no real advantages to either the
Delta or the General.  BTW, I replaced the fence with a Vega.


From davidsloan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:18 EST 1997
Article: 183091 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Japanese tools in N.H.
Date: 10 Feb 1997 02:19:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<I have heard that there is a Japanese tool supplier/store in the Concord
N.H. area. I live in the Boston area an would love to have a local
supplier that I could visit. Can anyone help? E-mail to:
Brawny@concentric.net>>

Years ago there used to be a New England company called, "Mahogany
Masterpieces" that sold Japanese hand tools.  The company folded and the
guy that ran it died.   I don't know of any company in New England today
that sells Japanese hand tools.   Closest I can think of is Garrett Wade
Company in New York (121 Ave of the Americas) but they don't carry the
variety they used to.

Best selection in USA is from:

Tashiros in Seattle, WA  206-621-0199
The Japan Woodworker in Alameda, CA  (south of San Francisco..sorry, don't
have number handy).

AMERICAN WOODWORKER magazine has an article by Toshio Odate on the
blacksmiths who make traditional Japanese planes and chisels coming up in
the May/June 1997 issue.   If you're interested in traditional Japanese
hand tools check it out.

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker magazine


From larry_1@ids.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:19 EST 1997
Article: 183092 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry Gould <larry_1@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:26:13 -0500
Organization: IDS World Network Internet Access Service, (401) 885-4243
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Patrick L. Williams wrote:
> 
> Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
> body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.
> 
> On Mon, 06 Jan 1997 21:53:45 -0400, garyi@gwis.com (Gary Ilijevich)
> wrote:


They have a web page:

www.routerworkshop.com

-larry
larry_1@ids.net 




> ;Does anyone know where I could get copies of
> ;The Router Workshop series on PBS?  It was
> ;hosted by Bob and Rick Rosendahl.
> ;My PBS stations don't carry them.
> ;
> ;Thanks,
> ;Gary
> ;garyi@gwis.com
> ;
> ;--
> ;Gary
> ;garyi@gwis.com


From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:20 EST 1997
Article: 183093 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Adding Delta BS Height Attach.
Date: 6 Feb 1997 19:48:46 GMT
Organization: AT&T
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In article <19970206144900.JAA02561@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
SteveL1994 <stevel1994@aol.com> wrote:
>I just recieved the height extension for my 14" delta bandsaw.  I'll
>install it this weekend.  
>
>Anyone have any tips/recommendations to offer (like how to remove the bolt
>the holds the top half on)?
>
>TIA,  Steve

Here's the post I sent out after struggling with mine.

Carl


-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738

______________________________________________________________________
>From  ledzep@elmo Mon Apr 15 10:52 EDT 1996
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:49:19 -0400
From: ledzep@elmo (Carl Muhlhausen LZ 1B-115L x3052)
Message-Id: <9604151449.AA28633@ledzep.lz.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <9604121610.AA00895@schist.paracel.com>
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Subject: Re: Delta 14" Bandsaw Height Attachment redux
Apparently-To: ledzep
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In article <9604121610.AA00895@schist.paracel.com>,
Patrick Olguin  <polgu@PARACEL.COM> wrote:
>In a previously-muddled thread, I surmised:
>
>[My ridiculous wrestling match with a 200lb. saw deleted]
>
>The fact that the saw was hard to separate should be considered
>a feature, not a bug. The pressed pins fit tightly, which means
>that when the saw is reassembled, it stays aligned, and stays
>put. I emphasize alignment here, because column rigidity depends
>on a host of other things, not the least of which are:
>
<snip>

As I was installing the riser block on my newly acquired 
Delta BS, I was thinking of you. I knew I was in for a treat,
so first I tried leaving the top detached from the base
so I could pull up on it while standing on the floor.
This didn't work because I kept lifting the saw off the floor.
Felt like doing dead lifts.

Then with wifey's somewhat reluctant assistance, I lifted the
top onto the base and bolted it. With graphic images of O'Deen
floating in my mind, I climbed up on the base and tried pulling the
top apart - still wouldn't budge.
At  this point I was a little riled, but danger signals were
going off in my head as I reached for my hammer and crowbar.
I mean here I have an expensive shiny new power tool and Delta's
instruction manual says "carefully lift the top of the column
off", and I'm standing there with sweat dripping off me and
a crowbar in one hand and a hammer in the other. Is there 
something wrong with this picture?

Luckily the crowbar didn't work out, but I found that taking
a block of oak and the hammer and whacking judiciously at 
selected points caused a thin glimmer of separation to appear.
Then not much else happened until I reached for my small
sledge hammer and began whacking with some more authority.
Then I was able to work a small lever bar into the crack and
pry the sucker apart. By some small miracle nothing was damaged
in the process.

Delta's description of how to reassemble it with the riser block
in place was also hilarious - " carefully place the top on the
dowel pins" or some such. I again needed a hammer to get the
top started onto the dowel pins and then pulled it together
by tightening the humongous bolt.

Which brings up another aggravation: what kind of wrench
or socket are we poor woodworkers supposed to own to use
on that #@**ing bolt? I used a borrowed socket and breaker bar, together
with a big crescent wrench to unbolt it, but the socket wasn't
deep enough to tighten the replacement bolt. A this point it
was late in the evening, the top was bearly seated on the pins,
and I was moderately pissed off. Then in one of those flashes
of inspiration, that rarely ever work out - I dug up the
headset wrench for my bicycle. Low and behold 32mm is close
enough to 1 1/4 " for this job. 

All told, I still think this is a wonderful machine that
I'm still trying to get the hang of. All the parts were there
and it adjusted pretty easily. But I do think the dear
folks at Delta - lurking in the shadows of this newsgroup -
could fix up the instructions for installing the riser
block a bit. Perhaps there are some secrets they are aware
of that might help.

Now for the devotee's of the Delta BS still with me I've got
a few questions:

	1) What's an acceptable level of vibration for this
	   machine? I followed Duginske's tuneup instructions
	   but it still doesn't quite pass the nickel test.
           The nickel stays put for a while, but eventually
	   falls over. I have it on the mobile base, which seems 
           to make it a little less stable than it would be on
	   the floor.

	2) ANy hints on resawing? I got a 3/4" resaw blade
	   from Suffolk Machinery, and installed a high fence
	   square and perpendicular to the table and blade,
	   but the cut still seems a rough compared to
	   a table saw. What's a realistic amount of waste to
	   expect when resawing a wide board? On one of my
	   first attempts I resawed an 8" wide, 3/4" thick
	   by 3 ft long piece of figured walnut. After 
	   running the pieces through the planer again and
           scraping them smooth, I ended up with two pieces
	   1/4" thick. Is this reasonable or can I hope for
	   better?

	3) How does on finish up a cut safely while resawing?
	   Do you reach beyond the blade and pull the
	   piece through?

Thank you for your patience. ANy responses to these questions
will be warmly received.

Carl
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Bell Laboratories
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738



From breakpt@netaccess.on.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:21 EST 1997
Article: 183094 of rec.woodworking
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From: Darren King <breakpt@netaccess.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Mail order to Canada...
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 21:12:10 -0500
Organization: BreakPoint Design
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Does anyone have any experience mail ordering tools from companies
like Tool Crib to Canada?  They have free shipping to the contigous
48 states but what would something large cost to get shipped
up North?  Also is there duty or tax involved?

The prices in american dollars would be worth it but would it
still be worth it if I had to add shipping and / or tax?

Alternatively, is there a Canadian mail order company that
deals with large tools like table saws or band saws?

Thanks,

Darren King, BreakPoint Design


From !muldrew@nbnetet.nb.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:22 EST 1997
Article: 183095 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Roots" <!muldrew@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 10 Feb 1997 00:51:59 GMT
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The only thing I would like to see is a group like
rec.woodworking.refinishing.    I refinish, but don't build and have to
wade through hundreds of messages about biscuit joiners etc.  to read the
messages in which I am interested.

Hmmmmm  I bet alt.stripping would get a LOT of traffic.


From bdreed1@lucent.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:23 EST 1997
Article: 183096 of rec.woodworking
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From: REED@cbict3.cb.lucent.com (Brian D. Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Another WoodCraft?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 02:36:22 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Columbus, Ohio
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I was looking through some magazines, and ran across one titled
Woodcraft (R).   After seeing the articles about the 2 woodcraft
stores and the name battle, I looked at the magazine.  At first I 
thought this was a magazine from Woodcraft Supply, but nothing
I could find said that--everything just said "Woodcraft (R)".
I checked the front, the order form, there is even a letter inside
with a letterhead, with the name simply Woodcraft (R).

So, is there another company called Woodcraft, making it
3 in the battle for the name?

Or (this is my thought) is this the Woodcraft Supply company?
If so, why are they calling themselves just Woodcraft, when all
the discussions recently have them called Woodcraft Supply?

Also, I thought that you could not register a common name
anyway.  But the magazine indicates they have.

Out of curiousity, if this magazine is from the "Woodcraft Supply"
company, what ramifications does it have, when their magazine,
letters, and such depict them as "Woodcraft", and they are suing
this other company over the use of "woodcraft supply" in the name?
That is, they're suing a company over a name that they don't even
use in their own publications.



From dadadata@friend.ly.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:24 EST 1997
Article: 183097 of rec.woodworking
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From: dadadata@friend.ly.net (craig o'donnell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: "Wonderply" & "Satinply"
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:00:14 -0500
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Anyone have any idea on this stuff? I saw this on rec.boats.building, and
didn't see any followup.


 >  Newsgroups: rec.boats.building
 >  Subject: Wonderply/Satinply ???
 >  
 >  Has anyone here ever heard of a new high-quality exterior-grade plywood
 >  calle something like Wonderply or Satinply?  I hear it's almost as good as
 >  Marine-ply with virtually no voids, but at a much cheaper price.  Any
 >  comments?

 >  TIA,
 >  Tom Anderson

-- COD 
   craig o'donnell             |||  author of Cool Mac Sounds
   dadadata@friend.ly.net 
   craig_o'donnell@bmugbos.org
  
-- "What ho, Mercutio"  [Wm Shaksper]
-- "What? Homer Simpson?!" [M Groening]


From jwcercis@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:24 EST 1997
Article: 183098 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to "weather" new cuts in "barnboard"?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 03:10:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have made a few "rustic" projects with old barn lumber.  I blended in
the new cuts by spraying on a gray semi-transparent oil based stain using
a small touch-up style spray gun.  It worked well for me.

Mill


From jsumford@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:25 EST 1997
Article: 183099 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsumford@aol.com (JSumford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mahogany finish?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 01:22:36 GMT
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I have finished thousands of board feet of mahogany over 25 years and I
can say without any reservation that the ideal finish is nitrocellulose
laquer sprayed over an oil stain such as special walnut which is sold by
Minwax.  Sand to 180 grit, apply stain with rag (at least two coats, the
darkness can be easily controlled), let dry for several hours (hair dryer
does a wonderful job of speeding the process), spray a light coat of
laquer and sand lightly with a worn piece of sandpaper being careful not
to expose raw wood on edges.  Spraying and sanding can continue for
additional coats as desired. I would apply at least four.  Finally, apply
paste wax (I use Minwax for dark surfaces) with OOOO steel wool and
immediately wipe off excess.  Good luck.


From tgillesp@mail.tds.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:26 EST 1997
Article: 183100 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@mail.tds.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: advice on MDF
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:57:36 -0800
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David Meiland wrote:
> 
> Why not sheetrock? It will be much cheaper and easier to hang. I can't
> imagine wanting to countersink all the screws necessary to hang MDF on
> the lid... but if you do, seal it (including edges after you cut each
> piece) and don't use a water-based product on it--it will fuzz up on
> you...
> 
> DM
> 
> ken <100611.1526@compuserve.com> wrote:
> 
> >A friend wants to panel his bathroom and is thinkng of MDF (due to
> >cheapness). I'm not sure whether it will cope with humidity.
> 
> >Does anyone have any experience of say, sealing BOTH sides before
> >hanging it??


Better yet, try greenboard. This is sheetrock with a water resistant
paper.

Tim


From sosedpm@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:27 EST 1997
Article: 183101 of rec.woodworking
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From: sosedpm@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 03:38:50 GMT
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If you have a fax/modem you can fax the plans to yourself, save the fax as
a TIF file and then attach the TIF file to your Email to the person not
the group.   This is how I send scroll saw templets to people.


Greg Babykin
SOS EDPM@aol.com


From mfedock@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:28 EST 1997
Article: 183102 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 21:41:07 -0600
From: mfedock@ix.netcom.com
Subject: table saw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855545920.25916@dejanews.com>
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I want to buy a table saw.  It must be 120 volts, cast iron table and
extensions, floor model NOT bench model.  Has anyone had a good experience
with a particular brand that they can recommend?  Mike Fedock

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From habitat@junction.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:28 EST 1997
Article: 183103 of rec.woodworking
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From: DENNIS and RENEE LAPIERRE <habitat@junction.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: King tools
Date: 10 Feb 1997 03:42:58 GMT
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One of the local stores carries King tools. These are a line of 10" table saws, 
drill presses, metal lathes, milling machines, and the like. Fairly big catalogue 
and they apparently are distributed out of Montreal, Canada. Prices are relatively 
cheap. I can't find any consumer reports on them though, and you just can't always 
trust what the salesman says. Anybody know about this line of tools?



From dscott@texas.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:29 EST 1997
Article: 183104 of rec.woodworking
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From: dscott@texas.net (Dan Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 21:34:57 -0500
Organization: Me Co.
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> > >
> > > Use the DejaNews service (www.dejanews.com).  About a billion+6 "What
> > > brand of router is best ?" postings there.
> 
> > >
> > > -Mark
> > >
> > > --
> > > My opinions, etc.
> > OK - that is far too many posts to sort through.  He wants an informed
> > opinion.  If you have one, give it.  If not, shut up.
> >
> > There are too many posts on this group for the totally trivial ones.
> > Say something useful, or say nothing.
> >
> > Steve
> 
> I think he made an excellent reply Steve.  If users would go
> to dejanews first, they would find thousands of previous posts
> covering the "What's the Best Router ?" area.  That would
> eliminate the repetitive posts in this group.
> 
> Pat McInerney

I've been reading this newsgroup off and on with various degrees of
devotion for the last 5-6 years. If you killed all the "repetitive posts"
this newsgroup would be a mighty slim read and a lot less interesting. 

FWIW, posts about other people's repetitive posts are themselves quite
repetitive and have a lot less to do with the object of "rec.woodworking"
than does any of the oft asked questions about tools, techniques,
experiences, etc.. 

Dan Scott


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:34:30 EST 1997
Article: 183105 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Where is FAQ file for rec.woodworking?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 14:12:47 +1100
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I'm looking for the rec.woodworking FAQ file so that I won't bug everyone 
unnecessarily with *dumb* questions on wood working topics.

Can anyone please help?

Ta, Rick


From woodyworkr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:31 EST 1997
Article: 183106 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodyworkr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Value of old planes needed
Date: 10 Feb 1997 03:49:47 GMT
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I have found a party willing to part with some old pre-WWII Stanley
planes.
He has multiples of the following:  #2, #3, #4, #5, #6, #7 and a #8.  I am
interested in filling in the gaps of my user collection and want to make
an
offer on possibly the #3 the #5 and the #8.  In good user condition what
would you expect to offer for these.  

Although I am not interested, he has a mint Stanley #45 with original box,
lots of cutters and fences and extension for sale.  What is that worth?

BTW if you are interested in any of these, perhaps we could make a package
deal.  I am planning on inspecting these soon and could broker a deal in
the Puget Sound area.

Please reply by e-mail if possible.

Bernie Swanson
Bellevue, WA




From waltrip@ptdprolog.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:32 EST 1997
Article: 183107 of rec.woodworking
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From: Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT
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  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
 Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

T.I.A.

Scott



From bearfoot@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:33 EST 1997
Article: 183108 of rec.woodworking
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From: bearfoot@erols.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:20:41 -0500
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I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive, and I
question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco, but
that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the ones
for Senco.
 
What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??

Paul


From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:34 EST 1997
Article: 183109 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Apologia & Explanation: Vices and Vises
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 16:52:32 -0400
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In article
<Pine.A32.3.95.970208214644.101237C-100000@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu>, Andrew
Barss <barss@U.Arizona.EDU> wrote:

[snip]
> In an attempt to recoup my dignity, I posted a smartass flame to
> the original poster -- who was me -- acusing him (me) of total
> nitwittery.   
> 
> In a reply to that flame, a quite nice person rose to my (the
> original befuddled vise mounter) defense, and took the flamer
> (me) to task for being very rude.  Rest assured, I wouldn't have
> said that to anyone ELSE -- but I reserve the right to be as rude
> as possible to myself, at least in jest. So, to set the record
> straight:  Andrew Barss posted  request for help; Andrew Barss
> insulted himself for all to see; no offense was intended!

[snip]
>         Hope this clears things up.
> 
> 
>         -- Andrew Barss and Andrew Barss

Andrew,

I was amused to read of your "predicament", but I must warn you that
engaging in any more self-flaming will probably have a serious impact on
your eyesight. 

;^)

-- 
Phil Rose


From jjjj@ipass.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:35 EST 1997
Article: 183110 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jeff Jones" <jjjj@ipass.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pine table yellowing
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:06:34 GMT
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We just finished a pine table.  Applied a ZAR Clear Wood finish (poly) and
turned yellow...much more yellow than we would have liked.  

Any suggestions on toning it down....Hate to have to have to remove the
clear 

Thanks,

Jeff


From marky@up.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:36 EST 1997
Article: 183111 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shop vac reviews
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:19:10 -0600
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Craftsman seemed to get teh best review in a recent magazine article I
read; I can't remember the model number ... there were three Craftsman
models and the middle priced one got the best rating.

Anyone here that can attest to it being a great vac?

-- 
(newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address)

Mark Young
marky@up.net


From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:37 EST 1997
Article: 183112 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending Formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:47:59 GMT
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<<What are the methods used for bending this laminate ?
Does it require special heating eq ?>>

Postforming grade DHPL must be heated to a minimum of 315 degrees F to
postform it.  Again, this is a minimum.  The temperature range for
postforming is usually between 315 degrees F and 340 degrees F. 
Temperature for postforming will depend on line speed if automated, color
of the laminate, and the moisture content of the laminate.

On some occasions the laminate can be bent at lower temperatures without
breaking or cracking, but you will not remove the memory from the HPL. 
With memory left in the HPL, there will be constant stress on the
adhesive, which could lead to an edge lift.

You can get 315 degrees F and 325 degrees F Tempilaq to help determine if
the HPL has reached the proper temperature for postforming.

There are manual postforming machines.  Some better than others.  I have
also seen home made formers, but they do not perform a tight wrap, which
leaves a void on the nose, the entire length of the top.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

Sticky Fingers


From rballou@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:37 EST 1997
Article: 183113 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger Ballou <rballou@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sand Paper vs. Steel Wool
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:56:17 -0600
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I always use sandpaper between coats because it sands the dust nibs down
flat while steel wool rounds them off.  Try it for yourself.  Sand one
area with 600 dry and steel wool next to it OOOO.  Feel it and you'll
see what I mean.  And sand between every coat on at least the horizontal
surfaces or other areas where people are likely to feel for smoothness.

I forget the supposed equivalency between various grades of sandpaper
and steel wool but what I found is that they act quite differently.  SP
cuts scratches in the wood in a scratch pattern while SW kind of
"planes" the surface.  If you SW wet with mineral sprits or a wool lube
product you get a nice smooth surface.  

Roger Ballou


From woodyworkr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:38 EST 1997
Article: 183114 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodyworkr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cheap Multi-purpose shop table - router-planer-assembly
Date: 10 Feb 1997 05:04:14 GMT
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I shared this about 1 year ago but its about time I do it again.  If you
work out of your garage and are limited to space, what I did may help you.
 I purchased a computer/printer table at a garage sale for $10.  I killed
my $10 jigsaw cutting an aprox. 11" x 11" opening in the middle.  (good
reason to by the Bosch barrel handle).  
The table is MDF 1.25" thick and laminated on both sides.  I routed a 3/8"
deep rabbet around the opening.  I then went to the local Commercial
Plastics outlet (who has a $10 minimum sale policy) and asked them for a
piece of Lexan that was at least 12" wide.  This is too narrow for most of
their uses. and the guy gave me a piece about 30-something by 12".  I
trimmed this and made to insert for my table.  I recently went back and
asked for the same thing and was given another piece aprox. the same size.
 I mounted a 20amp switched outlet to the front of the table and a 25 foot
12 gauge  "extension cord".  When I do not have my DW 625 mounted to one
of the 3 inserts, I use the 4th as a blank and use the table for my Delta
12" planer.  Not to mention this table is strong enough for my 220 lbs to
stand on, I use it during gluing and assembly.  Not considering the switch
and cord, the table cost me $30.

I would rather have a more expensive insert with rings to accomodate
different bit sizes but the three I have work fine.  A big one for panel
raisers, a medium for rail and stile and a smaller one for all others.  I
still need to build a fence but am using and Clamp and Guide 36" back to
back clamp for a fence and I actually use double stick tape to mount
auxillary wood fences to save the clamp.

BTW, I do not store the router in the table and find that having the 12" x
12" insert on the router handy sometimes to keep from tipping.

Bernie

Bernie Swanson
Bellevue, WA




From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:39 EST 1997
Article: 183115 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Venner Help Needed
Date: 10 Feb 1997 05:12:14 GMT
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<<My question is is it OK to use a
contact cement on this type of veneer? (specifically Formica brand
contact cement) >>

You can use contact cement for the veneer.  However, the cloth or paper
backing is not going to stop the stain from soaking into the veneer and
possibly causing the adhesive to reactivate.  You MUST finish the veneer
with light coats of stain/finish, to keep it from soaking into the veneer
and causing the adhesive to release.

Formica brand will work.  The following Formica contacts are neoprene and
should be fine for this application:

Formica 100, Formica 100+, Formica 120M, Formica 125M, Formica 140,
Formica 145, Formica 150/151, Formica 155/156, Formica 158/159, and
Formica 160.

Good luck,

Sticky Fingers


From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:41 EST 1997
Article: 183116 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:59:52 GMT
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<<I wonder whether a hot iron 
over the delaminated section would work on old contact cement. I know it
works 
for new cement, but haven't tried it with old cement.>>

No.  If it were a top that was recently made, then a hot iron might work. 
If the top is over a couple of months old, then forget it.  Contact loses
the ability to be reactivated with heat as it ages.  Plus the top most
likely came up because of lack of adhesive in the first place.  It would
be best to re-coat and repair.

Sticky Fingers


From lostchld@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:42 EST 1997
Article: 183117 of rec.woodworking
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From: lostchld@flash.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood finish care question
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:53:58 -0600
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Hi, all.
	My wife asked me a question about furniture oils (i.e. Old English
Lemon Oil) to which I just couldn't give a definitive answer.  I'm
hoping for a little learned advice from some of you serious woodworking
gurus.

Since shellacs, varnishes, and polyurethanes deposit a relatively thick
layer into and on the wood's surface, how can a funiture oil, (or
polish) penetrate and moisturize subsurface wood?  Are these finishes
permeable to oils, or are they porous?  

The question came up when we aquired a 1936 student desk.  It would seem
to need moisture in the wood since I'm certain it hasn't seen any
regular care, and probably quite a bit of abuse.  Any thoughts on the
subject?

Thanks,
Terry
(Defuzelier)


From kdeschene@lakefield.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:42 EST 1997
Article: 183118 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ken D." <kdeschene@lakefield.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Biesemeyer Fence?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:50:03 -0800
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I just purchased a Jet Xacta Fence (52" homeshop) for my Craftsman 10"
contractor's saw (about 5 years old). It will not bolt directly to my
saw without drilling either the fence rail, or the saw table itself.
Does anyone know if the Biesemeyer 50" homeshop fence will bolt to my
saw without drilling new holes?  Any comments on either fence? 
Thanks...


From GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:43 EST 1997
Article: 183119 of rec.woodworking
From: "G.I." <GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com>
Subject: Router VS Jointer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183119

I am building a router table and wood like to use it as a jointer. Being a
novice recreational woodworker I have a limited amount of space and money
so I want to make the table as versital as possible. Any and all sugestions
are welcome. Thanks



From rjones@eecs.umich.edu Sat Feb 15 11:34:44 EST 1997
Article: 183120 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Randolph M. Jones" <rjones@eecs.umich.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:37:25 -0500
Organization: Artificial Intelligence Lab, University of Michigan
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Mark Kepke wrote:
> Use the DejaNews service (www.dejanews.com).  About a billion+6 "What
> brand of router is best ?" postings there.

Did you read my post, or just the subject?

Well, I've actually been through those, and they were very informative.
They are what helped me narrow down my choices.  I never saw (or
at least didn't notice) in those posts that the Freud 2000E was actually
more HorsePower than the DeWalt 621 or the Bosch 1623EVS...I assumed
they were all the same power, since they were all about the same
price.  I was surprised to find out differently

So I didn't exactly ask "What brand of router is best?".
Let me rephrase the question I *did* ask.  Why are all the "good"
3HP routers around $280-$300 but the Freud only around $200?  If I'm
going to want 3HP someday, is there some reason I shouldn't buy the
Freud instead of paying more for the higher horsepower DeWalt and Bosch
routers?

If you know that the answer to this particular question is in DejaNews,
by all means please tell me where.

Thanks,
   Randy Jones


From ac258@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:45 EST 1997
Article: 183121 of rec.woodworking
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From: ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Table Saw Purchase
Date: 10 Feb 1997 03:30:48 GMT
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Ed Kuehnel (ekuehnel@citilink.com) wrote:
: I hope all Delta Table Saw owners know that the motor is a 110/220 type
: and while it can bog down using 110 volts, I am really happy since I
: changed it over to 220.  I can't load it down at all now! 

: Where is the 220 volts?  I just ran a #14 gauge three wire round cable
: from the clothes dryer area to my garage shop and put a dryer plug on
: the end.  I unplug the dryer and away I go.

Harvey Freeman wrote on Feb. 8, 1997  ac258@chebucto.ns.ca

Add some power to your saw by adding blade stabalizing washers.  In 
ripping they really show their worth.  The flutter of the blade is much 
reduced which gives a much smoother rip cut and the power that is not 
used in flutter does real work.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From lantect@cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:46 EST 1997
Article: 183122 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin <lantect@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: clamps
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 22:29:05 -0700
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..looking to get some clamps for:
- glueing up panels
- assembling

"Shop Notes" did a review on the one-handed, quick gripping types and
all 3 reviewers liked the Jorgensen EZ-Hold.  It's closest competitor
was the Quick-Grip.  I've looked at both.  I like the "action" of the
Quick-Grip, but the EZ is cheaper and also reversible (can act as a
spreader). 

But neither of these seems to be a solution for glueing up panels. 
That's where I guess I need a "bar-clamp".  I looked at the Tool Crib
catalog and the Jorgensen aluminum bar clamp seeems like a good buy at
$29 for a 6-footer.  Any thoughts on an aluminum, square bar clamp.  I
could go for the "Pony" fixtures and some black pipe, but the cost is
not much less, and having a flat surface seems to be a big advantage for
panel glue-up.

Anyone have any good/bad experiences with clamps.  Right now, I'm
leaning towards getting four 6 foot EZ Holds and three Jorgensen alum 6
footers.

Any thoughts on how many clamps to get -- and how long they should be? 
I plan to get the longest ones possible.  I can always make them
smaller.  Sometimes it may be inconvenient, but versatility in my small
shop is key.

Thanks!
Kevin



From bearfoot@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:47 EST 1997
Article: 183123 of rec.woodworking
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From: bearfoot@erols.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:00:53 -0500
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Claude Livernoche wrote:
> 
> I want to get a planer and i am considering the 12 1/2" Craftsman. I
> would appreciate your comments.
> Also, any comments about Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer (3 blades)?
> --
> 
> cliver@quebectel.com

I've had my Craftsman jointer for years and love it!!  Now, I don't do
anything fancy with it, and I'm not a cabinet maker or any of the like,
just a home handyman.  But it does the job for me.

Paul


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:48 EST 1997
Article: 183124 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 05:33:36 GMT
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bearfoot@erols.com wrote:

;I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
;Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive,
and I
;question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
;needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco,
but
;that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the
ones
;for Senco.
; 
;What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??

;Paul

Paul I too have been interested in brad nailers and have followed
various threads in this group on the subject for many months ,I am a
procrastinator ,the unit that seems to get consistent good reviews are
the PC units and if you check their prices are not half bad either .
                                  mjh












From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:48 EST 1997
Article: 183125 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:57:02 GMT
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<<Most kinds of contact glue should not be 
frozen, so don't leave it out in your garage.>>

Solvent based contact cements will not freeze.  They may phase if they
reach and extremely low temperature, but when they are warmed back up to
65 degrees F or higher and agitated, they will go back into solution and
be as good as new.

Water based contact cements are not freeze/thaw stable and will ruin if
frozen.

Sticky Fingers


From pgriessmann@plix.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:49 EST 1997
Article: 183126 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FEB51E.2BC1@plix.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 21:41:50 -0800
From: Peter Griessmann <pgriessmann@plix.com>
Reply-To: pgriessmann@plix.com
Organization: Haus of Hardwoods
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To: John Corcoran <jcorcora@fgi.net>
Subject: Baltic & Apple ply source
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John Corcoran wrote:
> 
> In article <19970209091501.EAA03141@ladder01.news.aol.com>, aandrlee@aol.comg
> says...
> >
> >I am looking for information and sources for high quality plywood
> >approximately 3/8" thick to be used for small box building. Any info
> >regarding what's available and what makes good plywood would be GREATLY
> >appreciated! Thanks in advance.
> 
> I just read in "SHOP NOTES" volume 25 about Appleply and Baltic Birch.
> They have twice as many plies as regular plywood, which makes them very
> stable.
> 
> Apple ply has alder inner plies, comes in a variety of face veneers and
> grades.    Can locate the nearest dealer to you by caling (800) 626-1981.
> 
> Baltic Birch is birch throughout, made in Europe & Russia and only comes in
> metric sizes.   Is supposed to be a little cheaper though.
> 
> Article also says even if your local lumberyard doesnt carry this specialty
> plywood they should be able to special order them.
> 
> Good luck & happy woodworking :-)
> 
> John Corcoran

You might try the following  http://www.plix.com/~com/hoh/
-- 
Peter Griessmann
Haus of Hardwoods
http://www.plix.com/~com/hoh/ Web page under construction
Mail Account: pgriessmann@plix.com


From djs2@well.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:50 EST 1997
Article: 183127 of rec.woodworking
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From: djs2@well.com (Donald Stern)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry
Date: 10 Feb 1997 05:31:35 GMT
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: This makes sense, and it is in such a location.  Since it will always
: be in such a location, then I will apparently have to do something to
: darken in artificially, such as using stain, which I know is a hanging
: offense if some recent posters were jury members...

Rick,

Right you are this is a hanging offense but check out Flexner he 
recommends non penetrating gel stain for use on woods, like cherry, which 
are not very stainable with penetrating types. (What happens with the 
later type is that after seeing the results the perpetrator wants to hang 
himself.)

Don


From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:51 EST 1997
Article: 183128 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:54:30 GMT
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<<It is possible that 3M #90 Spray Adhesive would be useful. It is
usually available at good hardware stores.>>

3M 90 is an SBR (kraton rubber).  Most kitchen counter tops would have
been bonded with a neoprene contact cement.  Mixing the two is not a good
idea.  Use a neoprene contact to make the repair.

Sticky Fingers


From tttt9r@lava.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:52 EST 1997
Article: 183129 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Hogan <tttt9r@lava.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Casket plans
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:56:55 -1000
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acroii@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Many have made jokes on this subject.  I don't think that it's that morbid
> of a project and have considered it, too.  I had a little more in mind
> though than a pine box.  If I can wade through the comic responses maybe
> someone will have some good ideas to share.
> 
> Will have to keep the project secret from my wife. She'd probably kill me!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Tom D


Been kind of half folloowing this thread and found a lot of the postings
funny as hell.  Don't know if anyone has suggested this yet, but a
casket coffee table should be made with a glass top and a maniquin
inside.  Great conversation piece.
Mike


From cesterak@texoma.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:53 EST 1997
Article: 183130 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Charles L. Esterak" <cesterak@texoma.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Liegh Dovetail Jig
Date: 10 Feb 1997 05:53:14 GMT
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I just bought the Leigh D-4 at Woodcraft, Marsh Lane @ Spring Valley Rd. in
Addison.  Nice store. Seems to work nicely with my DeWalt 621, although
I've yet to try half-blinds.  The jig came with a very well written,
comprehensive manual that lists recommended bits and guides.  Woodcraft has
a catalog that also lists specific guides and bits that are compatible. 
The Jig comes with a 1/4" shank carbide tipped dovetail and straight bit. 
I bought a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer and beefier 8mm shank bits for
hardwood use.  A 7/16" or 5/8" guide is required.

Charlie

Herb Blair <tejas@APPLINK.NET> wrote in article
<199702091236.GAA13692@applink.applink.net>...
> I am contemplating buying a Liegh Dovetail Jig.  I would like to hear
>from  folks
> out there that own them.
> I would like to know how you use it most, thru dovetails or half-blind?
> What kind of router are you using?  I have a Porter Cable 690 with plunge
base.
> What accessories should I consider? (guides, bits, etc.)
> Where did you buy it?



From amcooper@apci.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:53 EST 1997
Article: 183131 of rec.woodworking
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From: amcooper@apci.net (Alan Cooper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Starting Mantle Project
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 05:28:32 GMT
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I am fairly new to woodworking.  Basically made a couple bookcases,
key boxes, timmed out my home.  I have decided to try and build
mantle for my new house..  Are there any books, magazines, plans etc..
for help on this project?  I plan to use as much pre-cut lumber as
possible for the finish work such as moldings for underneath the
mantle, scroll work for trim out, etc..  I would love to here from you
experts on what tools I would need (currently have a router, table
saw, and mitre saw) and any hints on where to look for ideas and
how-to information.  Thanks.

Alan Cooper


From pgriessmann@plix.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:54 EST 1997
Article: 183132 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FEB2E5.1E4@plix.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 21:32:22 -0800
From: Peter Griessmann <pgriessmann@plix.com>
Reply-To: pgriessmann@plix.com
Organization: Haus of Hardwoods
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To: RickM@mnsinc.com
Subject: Re: Cherry
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RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
> 
> On 3 Feb 1997 20:20:11 GMT, "Sledge Riprock" <faldar@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> 
> >Cherry patinas over time with exposure to UV light.
> >It's only a surface feature, not too deep.  After it's finished, it will
> >continue to darken.
> >
> 
> I have never gotten an answer to the question of why this is not
> always the case.  I have a cherry piece that has remained unfinished
> for almost 2 years, with no appreciable darkening.  Explanation?
> Rick Marinelli
> rickm@mnsinc.com

Another reason for cherry not darkening might be the piece you are
refering to has a high percentage of sap (lighter, outside of trunk)
wood.  if this is the case it will likely never turn the deep, dark red
of a similar heart (center of trunk) piece
-- 
Peter Griessmann
Haus of Hardwoods
http://www.plix.com/~com/hoh/ Web page under construction
Mail Account: pgriessmann@plix.com


From gnwjr@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:55 EST 1997
Article: 183133 of rec.woodworking
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From: gnwjr@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Yankee Workshop Router Table Plans
Date: 9 Feb 1997 21:24:03 -0700
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Does anyone know how I can get a copy of the router table that Norm
built?  I have checked the PBS site and American Woodworker magazine
(they are still with AOL ) since it was a modified version.  I am
really impressed with it and plan ion building it.  Just one problem:
no plans sufficient for building aside from the write-up in American
Woodworker, Apr 94.

Thanks.


From PROCONTR@netcom.ca Sat Feb 15 11:34:56 EST 1997
Article: 183134 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rod Mackenzie" <PROCONTR@netcom.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source for High Quality Card Table Leg Hinges and brackets?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 06:17:49 GMT
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Does anyone know the source for high quality card table leg hinges and
brackets something better than what is supplied by Wood crafter and the
like. Prefer something in brass!

Thanks.

Rod Mackenzie


From rodney.harmic@dol.net Sat Feb 15 11:34:57 EST 1997
Article: 183135 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: scroll saw question
From: rodney.harmic@dol.net (Rodney Harmic)
Message-ID: <001383DB012A77EC@dol.net>
Date: 9 Feb 97 22:04:04 
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Message-ID: <32FE9E34.6648@dol.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:04:04 -0500
From: Rodney Harmic <rodney.harmic@dol.net>
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I bought an old heavy cast iron "Homecraft" scroll saw with a 16" throat
and it seems to be in good condition. My question is: 
Should I bother to make a stand, hook up a motor, etc., or would I be
better off with a modern new one? 
Generally, IMHO, old cast iron tools are far superior to new, but since
I've never owned a scroll saw, I'm not sure. Prices seem quite cheap for
the new saws. Advice appreciated.
Thanks, Rod


From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:58 EST 1997
Article: 183136 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 10 Feb 1997 05:04:46 GMT
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<<Note that the hot iron method will melt the adhesive, but you should
apply pressure to the area while it cools to make sure it the adhesive
sets again as it should.  A cool, damp rag or towel works well for this,
and speeds the cooling.>>

Heat causes contacts to soften and allow re-bonding.  Depends on the type
of contact used as to the amount of heat needed.  However, the heat will
not cause contact cement to melt.  Using heat to bond a delaminated piece
of HPL will only work if the top is fairly new, assuming there was enough
adhesive applied in the first place.  Contacts loose the ability to be
reactivated by heat as they age.

Sticky Fingers


From bobmethelis@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:58 EST 1997
Article: 183137 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobmethelis@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hartville Tool's Dovetail Jig??
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:26:40 GMT
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Looking for personal reviews  of Hartville's Dovetial Jig.

I don't expect it to be a Porter Cable, Leigh or Incra, but I am
hoping it's a couple of cuts above the Craftsman and the ubiquitous
Asian ones>

Yay or nay?
--
Bob Methelis
(IRC as Bob-in-NJ)
"He would be wood if he could,
but he's knot"



From *stev@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:34:59 EST 1997
Article: 183138 of rec.woodworking
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From: *stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: 10 Feb 1997 06:19:15 GMT
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>..looking to get some clamps for:
>- glueing up panels
>- assembling

Get some Bessey K Body Clamps, faces stay parallel under pressure
and they sit easy in the Bessey k-blocks or home made blocks.
They are not cheap, but they are very good clamps.

I wonder if those 4-way clamps are any good? Been eyeballing those
a long time, just never got around to buying any.


stev




-- 
If replying by mail, remove the 
asterisk* from my email address. 
Spammers Please READ:
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From Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:35:00 EST 1997
Article: 183139 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Tune <Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: British mail-order firm
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:42:33 +1000
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Hi!

I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.

Can anyone point to a reputable British firm that provides a mail-order
service for woodworking tools (and possibly hardware)?  Preferably
(though not essentially) on the Internet...

Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be 
cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
compare.

Andrew.
--
Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
              "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"


From Barry.Drodge@Waterloo.NCR.COM Sat Feb 15 11:35:01 EST 1997
Article: 183140 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in1.uu.net!204.191.213.61!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!n4tor.istar!gtnews.golden.org!usenet
From: "Barry Drodge" <Barry.Drodge@Waterloo.NCR.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 table saw?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 06:45:13 GMT
Organization: The Drodges
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <01bc171d$f11f9300$44a806cf@bdrodge2>
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I have one of these units.
It runs very well for me.

I have had mine for about 6 years now with no trouble at all.

They are actually belt drive(internal to the motor housing) and don't seem
to vibrate very much like the direct drive units do.

I paid $535.00 Canadian for mine as a demo unit from Delta.(Canadian office
is about 20 min from my house).

For $300.00 I would go for it.

Barry Drodge
bdrodge@golden.net
barry.drodge@waterloo.ncr.com



From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:02 EST 1997
Article: 183141 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine table yellowing
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 05:28:48 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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"Jeff Jones" <jjjj@ipass.net> wrote:

;We just finished a pine table.  Applied a ZAR Clear Wood finish
(poly) and
;turned yellow...much more yellow than we would have liked.  

;Any suggestions on toning it down....Hate to have to have to remove
the
;clear 

;Thanks,

;Jeff
Next time make it out of white pine ,that yellow pine will turn on you
in an instant.
Seriously ,hatever youdo is going to make it darker short of painting
it white . So my suggestion is to strip it [and i know thats not what
you want to hear ] and finish it with a true clear finish ,such as a
water white varnish as sold by Sherwin Williams [no asociation ] 
     mjh



From fyoung@bigfoot.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:02 EST 1997
Article: 183142 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Young <fyoung@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:53:57 -0600
Organization: wsnet.com
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Paul Johnson wrote:
> 
> ALYSONSDAD wrote:
> >
> > > > I will soon be buying my first table saw.
> Remember weight problems, Truckdrivers don't help a lot with 300# boxes.
I just bought a Delta Unisaw from Woodworker's supply.  Price was
comparable to all others.  No added charge for shipping, and the truck
driver got it off the truck and put it in my garage.  So far, very happy
with it.


From vilo@NOVITECH.SK Sat Feb 15 11:35:03 EST 1997
Article: 183143 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!NOVITECH.SK!vilo
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Viliam Holuby <vilo@NOVITECH.SK>
Subject: how to use garbage wood
Lines: 11
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183143

I have started to saw wood trunks to produce lumber softwood. Everything =
is great, but there is lot of wooden garbage, match-wood and sawdust. =
Usually we burn it up.=20
We would like to use this wood to manufacture something from it. =
Unfortunately we don't know how.
If anybody has any idea please let me know.
Thank you.

http://www.angelfire.com/mn/mvtrade/index.html


Viliam


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:35:04 EST 1997
Article: 183144 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Rick White)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: American Timber Sizes
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:59:38 +1100
Organization: Customer of Connect.com.au P/L, Sydney, Australia
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In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.

In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in, what 
appears to me, to be an indefinable code.

Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an article 
about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4 
through 16/4.

What is 4/4 and 16/4 ?  What does this mean?

If the /4 stands for 1/4", why don't you guys just say that 4/4 is 1"?
It's got me puzzled!

Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know about. 
;-)

(If you email me directly, please remove the * character from the given 
address.)


From dwilton@whidbey.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:05 EST 1997
Article: 183145 of rec.woodworking
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From: dwilton@whidbey.net (David Wilton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwood Supply in PNW
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 04:24:42 GMT
Organization: WhidbeyNet 
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You can try Edensaw.  They are in Port Townsend WA  (North West of
Seattle).    They have a web site.
http://www.olympus.net/edensaw/

Toll-Free: 1-800-745-3336
     Phone: 360-385-7878
     Fax: 360-385-5215
     E-Mail: edensaw@olympus.net 

I have purchased some walnut and some birch from them.

On 31 Jan 1997 05:05:43 GMT, "Jeffrey A. Jones" <jjones@oz.net> wrote:

>Can anyone tell me of some good hardwood (green/dry)suppliers in the
>Seattle/Olympic Peninsula area.
>
>Thanks in advance
>jjones@oz.net



From Chuck Hicks Sat Feb 15 11:35:06 EST 1997
Article: 183146 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Hicks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: gary.hereiam
Date: 9 Feb 1997 18:54:48 -0800
Organization: Whiteside Machine Co.
Lines: 15
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183146

Gary,

Since you are scard to post your real e-mail address, this is
the only way I can respond to your post.

We at Whiteside are not happy to hear that you have switched
to CMT Bits.  We back our product 100%   and take a back seat
to no one.  If you would like to discuss this further please
call 1-800-225-3982 or e-mail your response, I will post my
e-mail address (router@bluenet.net).

We will correct any problem or see that you get a refund.

Chuck Hicks
Whitesdie Machine Co.


From art.mulder@ualberta.ca* Sat Feb 15 11:35:07 EST 1997
Article: 183147 of rec.woodworking
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From: art.mulder@ualberta.ca* (Art Mulder)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,news.answers,rec.answers
Subject: rec.woodworking Introduction FAQ (updated: 27/Jan/97)
Supersedes: <ww-intro_854961121@rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca>
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Date: 10 Feb 1997 09:12:10 GMT
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NNTP-Posting-Host: rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca
Summary: An introduction to the newsgroup, pointer to resources, etc.
Keywords: FAQ introduction
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183147 news.answers:92291 rec.answers:27620

Archive-name: woodworking/introduction
Last-modified: 27 Jan 1997
Posting-Frequency: weekly
URL: http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

CONTENTS:
  1) Where are the FAQ's
  2) Where are the WWW archive sites
  3) Where are rec.woodworking articles archived?
  4) Pointers to related newsgroups and resources.
  5) Pointers for Beginners
     5.1) Posting Binaries

  This FAQ is intended to point readers to woodworking resources
  available on the Internet.  The newsgroup sees a lot of repeat
  traffic; please check out these resources before posting.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
1) The following relevant FAQ's are available:

    rec.woodworking Introduction 			<This Document>
    rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Addresses 
    rec.woodworking Steambending wood Frequently asked Questions 
    rec.woodworking Electric Motors Frequently asked Questions 
    rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Tool Reviews 
    rec.woodworking Frequently Asked Questions 
    Electrical Wiring FAQ [Part 1/ Part 2] 
    FAQ: Crib and Cradle Safety Regulations 
    FAQ: Hand Tools
    Cabinet Saw FAQ
    Tung Oil FAQ

  These FAQ's are posted regularly (usually monthly) to this newsgroup.
  Most are also crossposted to news.answers and rec.answers.  A well
  configured site should keep all postings to the *.answers news groups
  for at least 30 days before expiring them.  Therefore, you should
  always be able to find these FAQ's in your news spool.  (If you
  can't, ask your sysadmin, but read on, there are other options.)

  There exist several Usenet FAQ archive sites.  To find out more about
  them and how to access them, please see the "Introduction to the
  *.answers newsgroups" posting in news.answers.

  The main FAQ ftp archive is at rtfm.mit.edu.  If you do not have access
  to anonymous ftp, you can retrieve FAQ's from there via a mail server.
  To find out more send a message to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with
  the command "send help" in the message body.  (Responses may take
  several hours.)

  FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW.  One main WWW FAQ archive
  site is at: http://www.smartpages.com/faqs/

  The "main" rec.woodworking archive is maintained by Jim Roche, and
  can be accessed at
	http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html
	ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/

  In addition to those "general purpose" FAQ's, more focussed 
  special purpose documents (eg: a Workbench FAQ, Wood toxicity table,
  etc) are also available, and continually being developed.  Browse
  some of the Woodworking web pages (like Jim Roche's above) 
  to find them.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
2) Woodworking information on the WWW:

  There are many Woodworking pages on the WWW.  I can't expect to keep
  track of all of them, so here are just a few links to get you started.
  Check them for further links to other Woodworking pages, or check an
  indexing service like Yahoo or Lycos.

  http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html
	- Jim Roches' pages -- the "main" rec.woodworking archive
  http://www.iucf.indiana.edu/~brown/hyplan/wood.html	
	- Robert Brown's "W^5: WoodWorking on the World Wide Web"
  http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html
	- Allan Fisher's "The Electronic Neanderthal" (Hand tool focus)

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
3) Where are rec.woodworking articles archived?	

  There are three services (that I am aware of) that archive
  rec.woodworking articles.  Between the three of them you can
  search through up to a years worth of postings.  These archives
  are a wonderful way to look up old posts, and avoid restarting a
  discussion that just got finished.

  3.1) The Listserv Archive 
  
  Approximately the last 12 months of postings to rec.woodworking is
  archived by a listserv at LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU

  This archive can be searched via commands sent in email.  
  I have made available an example/tutorial document on using the 
  Listserv at http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Listserv.txt
 
  For more detailed information on accessing the database, send the
  command "INFO DATABASE" to LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU

  3.2) Dejanews Research Service               http://www.dejanews.com/

  Dejanews archives many Usenet newsgroups.  They archive up to a
  year's worth of news, depending on the newsgroup.

  3.3) Alta Vista			  http://altavista.digital.com/

  Alta Vista is a Research project of Digital's Palo Alto labs.
  They provide a full-text index of over 13,000 USENET newsgroups,
  and also a full-text index to over 16,000,000 web pages.

  They index 'current' news -- which seems to amount to roughly a
  month of rec.woodworking, as near as I could discover.  This is
  still a very useful archive to search for recent rec.ww articles.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
4) Pointers to related newsgroups and resources.

  Perhaps this newsgroup's focus isn't quite what you are looking for.
  If so, Maybe one of these other newsgroups will have what you are
  looking for.

  comp.home.automation 	  Home automation devices, setup, sources, etc.
  misc.consumers          Consumer interests, product reviews, etc.
  misc.consumers.house    Discussion about owning and maintaining a house.
  alt.home.repair 	  Created by someone who didn't know about m.c.h
  alt.building.*	  There are 10 or so building-industry groups.
  rec.crafts.metalworking All aspects of working with metal.
  rec.crafts.carving      Carving and its techniques.
  rec.crafts.woodturning  Woodturning and turned objects.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
5) Some Pointers for Beginners

  If you are a complete beginner to the whole world of Usenet
  (electronic news), I encourage you to make the time to read the
  handful of very informative postings in the 'news.announce.newusers'
  newsgroup.  They are an invaluable help.

  rec.woodworking has a fair amount of traffic.  To those people who
  have trouble with the volume of this group, a few suggestions that
  may help:

    Learn and use a good-quality newsreader, like tin, trn, nn,
    and others.  These all have powerful display mechanisms that
    can show you "threads" of conversation, searching, sorting, and
    the ability to automatically select or deselect articles (aka
    "kill files").  A good newsreader makes it much easier to read
    a high-volume newsgroup.

    If your newsreader can't follow threads or doesn't have automatic
    selection/killing of articles then...

		  Your Software Is Broken.  Fix It.

        [paraphrased from one of Chris Lewis' well written postings.]

  And also:

    [This advice is the same for just about any newsgroup.]

    Read the FAQ's, lurk, listen, and learn.  Use good titles on your
    posts, refrain from "me too" posts, and handle personal matters
    via email.  

    Please remember that flaming someone wastes bandwidth, accomplishes
    little, and certainly doesn't improve the newsgroup.
	[based on a posting by Robert Sorrels (rsorrels@lewiston.com)]

5.1) Posting Binaries

  The question has come up recently about posting binaries to the 
  rec.woodworking newsgroup.  

  I quote briefly from the FAQ "How to find the right place to post"
  which is posted to the news.announce.newusers newsgroup.  See that
  FAQ for a more full explanation.
  (You HAVE read all of those FAQ's, haven't you!?)

    "There are many newsgroups dedicated to posting various sorts of
     binary files, such as images, computer software, etc.  These are
     gathered under the alt.binaries.* and comp.binaries.* hierarchies.
     (There are also some local binaries hierarchies, such as
     de.alt.binaries.*)  These groups are the only places where you
     should ever post a file that is not directly human-readable,
     such as pictures, software, or even Microsoft Word files"

-----
To send me email, you must remove the "*" from the above email address.
I regret this action, but it is necessary to defeat Junk Email robots. 

-- 
...art mulder ( art.mulder@ualberta.ca )( http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/ )
              ( Sys Admin / Support Analyst, Network Resources )
              ( Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton )


From pgroeppe@estec.esa.nl Sat Feb 15 11:35:08 EST 1997
Article: 183148 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!sun4nl!news.Leiden.NL.net!esa.nl!locker
From: "P.H.Groepper" <pgroeppe@estec.esa.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:32:26 -0800
Organization: ESA/ESTEC
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choose clamps, you really can rely on. smooth and low friction spindle 
operation is important. and they should keep their quality even after 20 
years use and longer. I had some cheap clamps until I bought my first 
Bessey 25 years ago, being on a student's budget. I threw the others 
away, even didn't keep them as a backup. I've now some 60 Bessey and Lust 
clamps ranging from 8" to 50" in steps. And they *are* expensive. 

"The bitterness of poor quality lasts longer than the sweetness of low 
price"

Peter


From wiesnorberg@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:09 EST 1997
Article: 183149 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-xfer.netaxs.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!jump.net!grunt.dejanews.com!not-for-mail
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 04:51:05 -0600
From: wiesnorberg@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Water Gilding
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855298824.7992@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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To those who would like to gild or those who are having some
difficulty at achieving a successful gold gilt finish with
their hand crafted projects. I would like to offer my knowlege
of the water gilding process to you. I can help you in the
areas of materials, equipment, techniques, instructional
information available as well as any technical advice I may
be able to help you with.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From jnorman@fcol.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:10 EST 1997
Article: 183150 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!nntp.farm.idt.net!news
From: John Norman <jnorman@fcol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:11:57 -0500
Organization: IDT 
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32FF027D.1A9D@fcol.com>
References: <32FEA219.7E88@erols.com>
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To: bearfoot@erols.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183150

Hi Bearfoot,

   I bought the Sears brad nailer about a year ago.  I use it daily in
my shop and am happy with it.  I squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil in
the air inlet every few days for maintenance.  Cost was around $95.00.

cya

J


bearfoot@erols.com wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
> Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive, and I
> question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
> needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco, but
> that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the ones
> for Senco.
> 
> What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??
> 
> Paul


From dewduckinn@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:11 EST 1997
Article: 183151 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: dewduckinn@aol.com (DewDuckInn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cabinet hinges?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 11:34:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 9
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X-Admin: news@aol.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183151

I assume you are talking about self closing hinges made by such as
Amerock.  What I do is put a small cardboard shim inside the hinge to hold
it open a bit so that when the hinge is attached to the door the side to
be attached to the frame is in a paralle plane.  Depending on the
cardboard you may have to use one or more pieces, and even shim with some
paper.  Once you get a couple made save them and you can reuse as often as
necessary.  Mine are about 2" long and 1/4" side.

This works fine for me.


From dewduckinn@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:11 EST 1997
Article: 183152 of rec.woodworking
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From: dewduckinn@aol.com (DewDuckInn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman jointer 6", motor burned out, What to do ?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 11:38:33 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183152

Get a TEFC (Totally Enclosed, Fan Cooled)  motor from someplace like
Grizzly.  Sears motors are never sealed and the dust eventually gets to
them.  I just replaced the motor on my Craftsman bandsaw with one from
Grizzly and find it to perform okay.  The prices are quite reasonable.


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:12 EST 1997
Article: 183153 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hartville Tool's Dovetail Jig??
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:40:10 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32FF091A.3BCB@gwis.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183153

bobmethelis@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
> Looking for personal reviews  of Hartville's Dovetial Jig.
> 
> I don't expect it to be a Porter Cable, Leigh or Incra, but I am
> hoping it's a couple of cuts above the Craftsman and the ubiquitous
> Asian ones>
> 
> Yay or nay?

I have not used it but I've seen it in person several times. I would
agree that it's a couple cuts above the Craftsman. Hartville makes some
very good pieces of equipment and they have a lifetime guarantee on
everything in their mail-order catalog. I've had nothing but good
experiences buying from them.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From cousins@snowcrest.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:13 EST 1997
Article: 183154 of rec.woodworking
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From: cousins@snowcrest.net (jerry cousins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: back woodsmith issue
Date: 9 Feb 1997 00:21:55 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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A friend gave me a xeroxed copy of an article from the Woodsmith Magazine, No. 
108 - plans for building a mantel clock. However, the last page of the article 
(should be page 33) was not attached and that issue is no longer around. On 
that page might be the supplier's name & address for the clock face & hands - 
am wondering if anyone might look that up for me and e-mail the info.
many thanks
jerry cousins



From lucifer@sheol.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:14 EST 1997
Article: 183155 of rec.woodworking
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From: lucifer@sheol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is FAQ file for rec.woodworking?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:56:55 GMT
Lines: 23
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The FAQ for this newsgroup
and other worthwhile links may be found at
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html

the Mulder Intro is at
http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

The search engine for all news groups is at 
http://www.dejanews.com/forms/dnq.html 

The Usenet may also be searched at
http://www.infoseek.com/

but to retrieve binaries, search Usenet at
http://altavista.digital.com

a Usenet general-info URL is
http://www.yahoo.com/News_and_Media/Usenet/Newsgroup_Listings/




Chuck - cwuest at ibm dot net


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:15 EST 1997
Article: 183156 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:47:36 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32FF0AD8.616F@gwis.com>
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To: "Patrick L. Williams" <plw@value.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183156

Patrick L. Williams wrote:
> 
> Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
> body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.

It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
use whatever the sponser dictates !

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:16 EST 1997
Article: 183157 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:53:26 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32FF0C36.3157@gwis.com>
References: <5dcud0$ofl@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <01bc16ec$c3543560$4bc9a4c6@muldrew.nbnet.nb.ca>
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To: Roots <!muldrew@nbnetet.nb.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183157

Roots wrote:
> 
> > Todd  wrote:>
> > Isn't Formosa just a little bit south of Taiwan?
> >
> 
> Isn't the USA just a little bit south of Canada?

Ha !!!!!!!!!!
That was good. I'm sick and tired of reading about supposedly superior
US products in this newsgroup. I've plenty of equipment made in the US,
Japan, and Taiwan and I can tell you that there's not a whole lot of
difference on equivalently priced products. I've found that on
comparably priced equipment, there just is not that much difference. On
large power tools, it seems that all the manufacturers, (US or
otherwise) expect you to be a metalworker as well as a woodworker. The
exception for me has been the Japanese stuff which while typically more
expensive seems to be much higher quality in general.

All you people bashing Taiwan should remember what Japan did to the US
Auto manufacturing business. In my opinion, based on the declining
quality of many of the US power tool manufacturers, I can easily
envision a similar thing happening with the Taiwanese stuff.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:17 EST 1997
Article: 183158 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!not-for-mail
From: woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net (Richard  Absher)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scroll Sawed Children's Puzzle
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:43:33 GMT
Organization: Infinet
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dclaridg@awinc.com (Derek Claridge) wrote:

>I made a children's puzzle with the scroll saw and was amazed at how
>well it was received by the grand children!

>Where can I find some patterns for puzzles?

>I have this one with seven interlocking cats which I've scanned in.
>Do you have one to trade?

There are several books on the subject.  Check you local bookstore or
e-mail me and I can send you mail order sources.  Also, you might want
to try posting to the scrolling newsgroup.  Instructions for joining
are in my signature.



Richard Absher            "There's no telling what we can create 
woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net  if we give God the credit."-Tricia Wilhoit
Christiansburg, VA             
USA                            

My new web site under construction at: 
     http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/5510/index.htm
The Woodcarver's Listserver:
      http://www.terranet.ab.ca:80/~bjudt/WoodcarverList.html
The Scrolling List-- Send command "SUB SCROLLING-LIST (YOUR NAME)" 
                     without quotes to :
		     LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ACSU.BUFFALO.EDU



From malcolmnj@msn.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:18 EST 1997
Article: 183159 of rec.woodworking
From: "Ned Malcolm" <malcolmnj@msn.com>
Subject: Re: dado with router
References: <5daj9i$s5n@netnews.upenn.edu>
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This method has worked out very well on several projects I have undertaken.
 As far as a straight jig I picked up a nice clamp on aluminum one for just
a few bucks at my local builder supply store.  The bits that have performed
the best for me have been the spiral type, and as far as I am aware you
can't get these in an adjustable variety

Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu> wrote in article
<5daj9i$s5n@netnews.upenn.edu>...
> I need to cut a clean square dado for a router table.  Can I use a router
> if I build a straight jig?? Is this better than a TS which I heard is not
> good for clean channels..
> 
> Is there such an animal as a router bit which has various size dados by
> changing head or should I get a set of fixed dado bits.
> 


From bmbaker@vet.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:19 EST 1997
Article: 183160 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bridget Baker <bmbaker@vet.purdue.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: how to use garbage wood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:02:28 -0800
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32FF3884.2414@vet.purdue.edu>
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To: Viliam Holuby <vilo@NOVITECH.SK>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183160

Viliam Holuby wrote:
> 
> I have started to saw wood trunks to produce lumber softwood. Everything is great, but >there is lot of wooden garbage, match-wood and sawdust. Usually we burn it up.
> We would like to use this wood to manufacture something from it. Unfortunately we >don't know how.
> If anybody has any idea please let me know.
> Thank you.
>

This isn't what I would call manufacturing, but it is a lot of fun and
can get you some nice money from craft shows.  Take a small ziploc
baggie and fill it with sawdust.  Attach a label that says something to
the effect of "The Master Puzzle"  A puzzle for the person who knows
everything, has everything and can do anything.  When I make these, I
also put a picture of a block of wood on them and say that the puzzle
should look like the picture when finished.  The label also includes a
warning:  "Don't force the pieces!!"

This probably isn't quite what you are looking for, but if you do craft
shows, you might find that this is one of your best sellers!!

Bridget 
> http://www.angelfire.com/mn/mvtrade/index.html
> 
> Viliam


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:20 EST 1997
Article: 183161 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing outside furniture
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:20:10 -0500
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camchase wrote:
> 
> I made a decorative bench to place outside the front of my barn and have
> plans to paint it.  It is made of pine, so what should I put over the
> paint to keep it from the weather?  What is the best type of paint to
> paint it with?
> 
> Thanks in advance.  Please e-mail.
> 
> Camchase
> 
> Camaghey Chase Farms
> Reg. Belgian Horses
> Proudly standing "Leaskdale Conscent"
You don't say if you want a clear finish or a coloured finish.  I have
great luck with Flecto Exterior Varathane for a clear finish.  It is
much like a marine spar varnish (but cheaper in price) and has a high uv
index to keep the sun from bleaching the wood.  Or if you want to paint
it, Flecto has a water-based enamel in various colours that are interior
or exterior and works great outdoors on wood or metal.

Hope this helps.

Henry from Kingston


From gsinos@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:21 EST 1997
Article: 183162 of rec.woodworking
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From: gsinos@worldnet.att.net (George Sinos)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:42:02 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I've been following this group long enough to see this topic come up
several times.  I believe the traffic has grown to the point that a
simple split finally necessary.

In the last year or so rec.crafts carving and rec.crafts.woodturning
have successfully formed.  Each has a healthy amount of daily traffic
and there is almost no cross-posting to this group.   In these cases
the cross posting argument holds no water. 

I think a simple split along the lines of rec.woodworking.tools and
rec.woodworking.techniques would improve the general usability for
everyone.

gs

---------------------------------
     George Sinos
     gsinos@worldnet.att.net
---------------------------------


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:35:21 EST 1997
Article: 183163 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk (Jeff Gorman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique Tools in London?
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 11:02:34 GMT
Message-ID: <19970209.110234.95@millard.demon.co.uk>
References: <19970208055701.AAA04008@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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DONWENT wrote:

~  Does anyone know if there are any antique tool dealers in London?
~  I'm going there the 1st week in March.  Also going to Darlington.
~  Any info would be welcome.

I posted this only a short while ago, but the turnover on rec.ww seems so great that some readers might not have seen it. Since the holiday season is approaching, it might be worthwhile repeating.

Apologies to seasoned readers.

The Old Tool Store at Spilsby is possibly within reach of Darlington,
depending on time to spare and access to a car.

Some UK addresses. They cannot be guaranteed. If giving up precious
time or travelling distances, please phone beforehand to check if they
are open.


  The Old Tool Store
  Red Lion
  East Kirby
  Spilsby
  Lincs  PE23 4BX 
  England
  
  Phone  01790 763 406 (from the UK, omit the leading zero from abroad)
  Fax    01790 763 311
  Run by Ray Isles, Ashley Isles son. They offer a catalogue.
  Overseas enquiries welcome. "Callers welcome, but please telephone
  +first to avoid disappointment".
  
  Spilsby is about 30 miles east of Lincoln, about 12 miles west of
  Skegness, a seaside resort.
  
  There is a former Lancaster bomber station, RAF Hemswell at Hemswell
Cliff, near to a small village about 10 miles east of Gainsborough and
about 12 miles north of Lincoln where the hangars are divided into
antique shops of several kinds. There are some old tools. They are open
all the year round, and have a restaurant. The Hemswell Antique
Centres are on 01427 668389 (Omit leading zero from abroad). When
travelling southwards, do not go into Hemswell village, but proceed a
few hundred yards further to the roundabout and turn left. When I
visited, I felt it difficult to say whether a long detour would be
justified for the tools alone, but there are plenty of portable
antique items that might attract a SWMBO (or HWMBO) also. Regretably
some Pukey Craft shops as well.

  Old Tool Shop
  3 Highfield Road
  Doncaster

  The Tool Cabin
  (David Stanley)
  Ogansthorpe  LE12 9SR
  Leicestershire
  01530 222 320

  Lists available Ł4 - Europe, Ł5 - Australia, $6 - North America

  Chris White
  The Tool Shop
  1 Broadbridge House
  Bosham Lane
  Bosham  
  Sussex PO18 8HT
  
  01243 573 472

  Dan Letts
  Boys Hill Farm
  Holnest
  Sherborne
  Dorset

  Woody's Tool Shop
  856 Wimborne Road
  Moordown
  Bournemouth

  Roy Arnold
  77 High Street
  Needham Market
  Ipswich  IP6 8AN
  
  Phone:  01449 720110 (omit the leading zero from abroad)
  Fax:    01449 722498


  Tony Murland in the High Street also.
  
  Mark Rees Tools
  Barrow Mead Cottage
  Rush Hill
  Bath BA2 2QP
  
  Bristol Design (Tools) Ltd 
  14 Perry Road
  Bristol    BS1 5BG
  England

  Phone +44 117 929 1740

  Email    100010.1433@compuserve.com
  Charles Stirling - Speaks Murrican. 8-)
  
  The Tool Shop
  Broadbridge House
  Bosham Lane
  Bosham
  Chichester
  Sussex

  01243 573 472/ 572937
  Open Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon.

  The Tool Box
  Colyton
  Nr Seaton
  Devon
  EX13 6LU
  01297 552 868

  Pennyfarthing Tools
  31 Penyfarthing street
  Salisbury
  Wiltshire

  01722 410 090
  Mon - Sat
  
  Les Hall
  Malvern Studios Museum
  56 Cowleigh Road
  Malvern WR14 1QD
  Worcestershire  
  
  01327 467 316
  
  Furniture maker and restorer, selling essentially antiques. Tools
  apparently on display in glass cases.
  
  Leeside Tool Shop
  Burndell Road
  Yapton
  West Sussex BN1 80HP
  01243 554 056
  
  St Albans Gallery
  28 Spicer Street
  St Albans
  Herts  AL3 4 PG
  
  01727 830 574
  
  Inchmartin Restorations
  Inchture
  Perthshire
  Scotland
  01828 864512
  
  Paul Rougetel
  Chester
  01244 343259

Old Woodworking tools, 18th Cent Wooden planes, works from home
071 359 9313
  
London addresses ------------------------------------------------

  The Antiquarian
  King's Road,
  London
  (SE of the Sloane Square tube)

  The Old Tool Chest,
  41 Cross St  London, N1
  0171 359 9313
  Underground Angel and Islington Stations
  
It's situated about 1/2 way between the Angel and the Islington tube
stations.  Bring cash. 
  
  Jubilee Market
  Covent Garden
  London

  Monday only, 0800 to mid-day.
  Nearest Underground, Covent Garden and Charing Cross.
 
  Portobello Road market
  London
  There is a free guide published by The Portobello Road Antique Dealers
  Association, 288 Westbourne Grove, Longon W11 2PS, Tel: 0171-229 8354,
  which list the various shops and regular stalls.
  
New Tools ----------------------------------------------------------

James Jackson
  79 Alscot Rd
  London SE1

  0171 242 7578
  Nearest Underground London Bridge

  W Tyzack
  79 - 81 Kingsland Road
  London EC1
  0171 739 7126/2630

  Nearest Underground - Old St Station

  Parry Tyzack
  329 Old Street
  London EC1

  0171 739 8301
  Underground - Old Street

  Buck & Ryan
  101 Tottenham Court Road
  London W1

  0171 636 7475
  
  John Boddy's
  Northallerton
  N. Yorkshire
  
  New tools, books (but sealed in cling film), finishing materials,
turnery fittings and timbers (best for exotics and stuff for turners
and carvers). Weekend demonstrations. A sideline of a largeish
timber merchants.

Sculptors tools ----------------------------------------------------
  
  Alec Tiranti
  27 Warren Street
  London W1P 5DG
  Tel 0171 636 8565
  Fax 0171 636 85650.
  
Visits --------------------------------------------------------------

Temple Newsam House
Outskirts of Leeds 

An Elizabethan mansion in the care of Leeds City Council. Large range
of furniture. Extensive grounds for a walk.

Lotherton Hall 
Lotherton
Nr Aberford
N Yorks

An easy car ride from Leeds or York. Also run by Leeds City Museum. It
is an Edwardian house formerly owned by a collector. It has High
Victorian and some Arts & Crafts Movement furniture, usually some
modern craft displays. Worth a visit since the furniture is more
interesting than the usual run-of-the-mill museum stuff. A bird garden
for the non-craft people.

Sheffield has the Abbeydale Steelworks, home of the first crucible
steel and water-powered forge for making scythe blades. Also the
buildings of the original settlement. Run my Sheffield City Museum.
I've been there. It is well worth a visit.

The Shepherd Wheel near Sheffield about 1-1/2 miles away consists of
two cutlery grinding workshops powered by a waterwheel, completely
restored and fully operational.

Kelham Island Museum includes a 12,000 hp steam engaine and describes
the living conditions of  Sheffield workers and two self-employed
"Little Mesters" working full-time in specialist workshops, according to
my 1987 guide.

General
British Tourist Authority
http://www.bta.org.uk

Hotel Net
http://www.hotelnet.co.uk


Jeff, who thinks there is more to the UK than the usual tourist traps.

-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:22 EST 1997
Article: 183164 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail order to Canada...
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:28:48 -0500
Organization: Sympatico
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32FF1480.3CB1@sympatico.ca>
References: <32FE83EF.12B@netaccess.on.ca>
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Darren King wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have any experience mail ordering tools from companies
> like Tool Crib to Canada?  They have free shipping to the contigous
> 48 states but what would something large cost to get shipped
> up North?  Also is there duty or tax involved?
> 
> The prices in american dollars would be worth it but would it
> still be worth it if I had to add shipping and / or tax?
> 
> Alternatively, is there a Canadian mail order company that
> deals with large tools like table saws or band saws?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Darren King, BreakPoint Design
Tool Trend from Concord, Ontario is a large tool shop that provides a
catalogue and ships Canada wide or to the US, phone 1-800-387-7005 to
request their current catalogue or House of Tools from Edmonton, Alberta
ships Canada wide and to US, phone 1-800-661-3987 to request their
current catalogue.  Another supplier in Canada is Busy Bee Tools in
Toronto who ship all over the country but I don't have their phone
number at my finger tips.  I teach cabinetmaking at a college and have
dealt with all of these companies.

If a product is made in the US (Delta) for instance, you don't pay duty
coming to Canada, but if it is made off shore (Japan, etc.), then you
pay duty coming into Canada.  Hope this helps.

Henry from Kingston


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:23 EST 1997
Article: 183165 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood finish care question
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:38:04 -0500
Organization: Sympatico
Lines: 31
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lostchld@flash.net wrote:
> 
> Hi, all.
>         My wife asked me a question about furniture oils (i.e. Old English
> Lemon Oil) to which I just couldn't give a definitive answer.  I'm
> hoping for a little learned advice from some of you serious woodworking
> gurus.
> 
> Since shellacs, varnishes, and polyurethanes deposit a relatively thick
> layer into and on the wood's surface, how can a funiture oil, (or
> polish) penetrate and moisturize subsurface wood?  Are these finishes
> permeable to oils, or are they porous?
> 
> The question came up when we aquired a 1936 student desk.  It would seem
> to need moisture in the wood since I'm certain it hasn't seen any
> regular care, and probably quite a bit of abuse.  Any thoughts on the
> subject?
> 
> Thanks,
> Terry
> (Defuzelier)
If you have a varthane, varnish finish on and then put a Lemon Oil for
example over top, the oil DOES NOT go through the finish.  The oil is
protecting the finish itself.  Another and better product is to put a
light coat of wax over the finish and buff it up.  This is called
dressing your furniture and buy the best wax you can find with a high
carnuba content such as Johnson's Treewax.  Dressing your finish
protects the finish, not the project.  

Hope this helps.
Henry from Kingston


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:24 EST 1997
Article: 183166 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine table yellowing
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:34:13 -0500
Organization: Sympatico
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Jeff Jones wrote:
> 
> We just finished a pine table.  Applied a ZAR Clear Wood finish (poly) and
> turned yellow...much more yellow than we would have liked.
> 
> Any suggestions on toning it down....Hate to have to have to remove the
> clear
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff
Sounds like you have used an oil-based finish on it and these have an
amber tint to them.  Different oil-based varathanes, polyurethanes, etc.
have a different amber effect by manufactures but all will amber your
pine to some extent, some more than others depending on the brand name.
If you want a clear finish, stick with Flecto Diamond Elite, a
water-borne varathane that won't change the colour of the wood.  The
wood will change colour (patina) in time due to aging (like us) but the
Flecto Diamond Elite will remain clear for the next 20 years.

Other than stripping it back to bare wood or painting it a light colour,
there isn't much you can do at this point.

Henry from Kingston


From jlevin@paonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:25 EST 1997
Article: 183167 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
From: jlevin@paonline.com (John Levin)
Organization: Foobie Union
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183167

In article <32fb83f3.5079244@netnews.worldnet.att.net>, gsinos@worldnet.att.net 
says...
>Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
>short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
>thousand feet?

>>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
>> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed boards.

Unless you regularly work with 100 foot long boards, 200-300 LINEAL feet of 
lumber is a lot of wood (for example, 300 lineal feet of 1x6s would be 37 and a 
half 8 foot boards



From stevet@an.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:26 EST 1997
Article: 183168 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Toro <stevet@an.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Liegh Dovetail Jig
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:57:03 -0500
Organization: Hewlett Packard
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <32FF1B1F.6BAB@an.hp.com>
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Charles L. Esterak wrote:
> 
> I just bought the Leigh D-4 at Woodcraft, Marsh Lane @ Spring Valley Rd. in
> Addison.  Nice store. Seems to work nicely with my DeWalt 621, although
> I've yet to try half-blinds.  The jig came with a very well written,
> comprehensive manual that lists recommended bits and guides.  Woodcraft has
> a catalog that also lists specific guides and bits that are compatible.
> The Jig comes with a 1/4" shank carbide tipped dovetail and straight bit.
> I bought a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer and beefier 8mm shank bits for
> hardwood use.  A 7/16" or 5/8" guide is required.
> 
> Charlie
> 
> Herb Blair <tejas@APPLINK.NET> wrote in article
> <199702091236.GAA13692@applink.applink.net>...
> > I am contemplating buying a Liegh Dovetail Jig.  I would like to hear
> from folks
> > out there that own them.
> > I would like to know how you use it most, thru dovetails or half-blind?
> > What kind of router are you using?  I have a Porter Cable 690 with plunge
> base.
> > What accessories should I consider? (guides, bits, etc.)
> > Where did you buy it?


I am also thinking about buying the D4.  Woodworkers Warehouse has
it on sale for 349.00 this week?  Is this a good price?  Thanks in
advance.


From damistas@faunus.ar.lublin.pl Sat Feb 15 11:35:27 EST 1997
Article: 183169 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dariusz M.Stasiak" <damistas@faunus.ar.lublin.pl>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wooden houses
Date: 10 Feb 1997 13:11:08 GMT
Organization: AR Lublin
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I am looking for conception, photos, projects of any wooden houses.
If you know any www-address with that things - please e-mail me directly.

Thanks - Darek

<damistas@faunus.ar.lublin.pl>


From wmccurdy@tiac.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:28 EST 1997
Article: 183170 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill McCurdy <wmccurdy@tiac.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 08:17:50 -0500
Organization: Calico Design
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32FF1FFE.4954@tiac.net>
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Donald H. Littrell wrote:
> 
> Is that because flying chips have removed your eyesight?  To operate a
> power tool without using available protection is fool-hardy.
> 
> Duane Bartlett <sailorb@perigee.net> wrote in article
> <01bc1308$47a6a160$88fee5ce@sailorb>...
> > The last time I saw my blade guard was when I saw the
> > saw in the place where I bought it.
> > D Bartlett
> >

To advocate the use of power tools without guards is
irresponsible.
-- 
Bill McCurdy
Nashua, NH


From funhog@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:29 EST 1997
Article: 183171 of rec.woodworking
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From: funhog@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Quick Release Hose Clamp
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 05:35:02 -0800
Organization: Netcom
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Gerald Ross wrote:
> 
> Where can I find a quick release clamp for dust collector hose?  I have
> seen such an animal somewhere, you just hook a loop over a pair of hooks,
> flip the lever back to tighten.  This would work great for disconnecting
> my table saw to move it, and also to hook up to a vacuum tip to clean the
> floor.
> 
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Marshall, TX

try penn state they have a quick release fitting for $7.95 works great

garry


From tkoerner@execpc.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:30 EST 1997
Article: 183172 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas E. Koerner" <tkoerner@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Sealing" exposed edges of Particle Board? (was: "Sealing" exposed edges of MDF?)
Date: 10 Feb 1997 13:46:10 GMT
Organization: World Marketing Alliance
Lines: 28
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John,
I don't believe your door is made with MDF.  MDF would be to heavy for a
door, it is extremely dense.  MDF is used a lot in furniture as a strong,
even consistency base.  Your door probably has a particle or fiber type
filling.  That would flake quite easily because it has a rather loose
consistency.  The openness of the fiber provides a better insulation than
the dense MDF would.  The fiber has many more pockets of air.  I would
suggest discarding the door for several reasons, however for brevity I will
only mention one.  Because of the consistency of the door filling, you may
in time have a problem of it breaking down do to vibrations set up by your
router.  MDF would be an excellent choice, however it is rather expensive. 
Hope that helped some.

-- 
Financial Independence is a choice, not a circumstance.

John Straffin <straffin@evolveinc.com> wrote in article
<32fb6abb.348567052@nntp.best.com>...
> On Thu, 06 Feb 1997 23:47:39 GMT, straffin@evolveinc.com (John
> Straffin) wrote:
> 
> >I'm making a router table to out of some old solid-core door (1-1/2"
> >MDF).  Any suggestions on what to do with the exposed wood in the
> >center (where the polycarbonate insert will go) so that it doesn't
> >chip away, fall apart, or succumb to moisture?
> >- John C. Straffin
> >straffin@evolveinc.com



From captsct@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:31 EST 1997
Article: 183173 of rec.woodworking
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From: captsct@aol.com (Capt Sct)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GUARD ?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 13:48:27 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <19970210134801.IAA01259@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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My Dad never liked his blade guard.  Now I own his concertina.  He finds
it hard to play with any finger tips!


Scott
That's Captain of a Ferry Boat. NOT a Fairy Captain!


From EmailTolbartel@veribest.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:31 EST 1997
Article: 183174 of rec.woodworking
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From: Les Bartel <EmailTolbartel@veribest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:52:17 -0600
Organization: VeriBest, Inc.
Lines: 21
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I've been toying with the idea of putting a larger pully on the shaft
driven by the motor to slow my saw (14" Jet) for cutting metal.  The
apparent problem is that I can only slow it to about 1000 feet per
minute.  The largest pully that will work on top appears to be about 16"
diameter.  This still seems too fast for cutting steel.  Has anyone else
done this?  What other precautions should I take?  I will get a separate
metal cutting blade.

 - les

I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
mean.

My return mail address is incorrect to prevent spammers from getting
my real address.

Les Bartel
lbartel@veribest.com
VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)


From tkoerner@execpc.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:32 EST 1997
Article: 183175 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas E. Koerner" <tkoerner@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 12" Delta Jointer
Date: 10 Feb 1997 13:57:10 GMT
Organization: World Marketing Alliance
Lines: 29
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Geoff,
Are you talking about the Delta 12" Planner or the Jointer.  Two different
animals in the woodworking arena.  I have both a Jointer and Planner, the
Jointer I have is a 6" Powermatic and the Planner is a 12" Portable Delta. 
I love them both and need both to really do a good job of straightening and
"thicknessing" a board.  I believe you are talking about he planner, which
is fine if your board is already flat.  The problem with the planner is
that it follows the contour of the board, so if you have a bow in the
board, it will not take that out, but it will provide a consistent
thickness.
Hope this helped some.

Both tools are almost essential if you plan on using full dimension lumber
and finishing it yourself.  
-- 
Financial Independence is a choice, not a circumstance.

Geoff Waite <bodean@ricochet.net> wrote in article
<32F807AD.6C96@ricochet.net>...
> I am interested in buying a Delta 12" jointer. Does anyone out there
> have one of these animals? If so are the blades easy to change. I know
> from experiance that the jointers from yesteryear Delta were pretty
> tough to get the blades set just right. From the catalog it looks like
> they have a screw mechanism that raises the blades to the desired hight.
> Is this true?
> Thanks in Advance,Geoff
> 
> I see said the blind man who picked up his hammer and saw!
> 


From daddieco@groove.zko.dec.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:33 EST 1997
Article: 183176 of rec.woodworking
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From: daddieco@groove.zko.dec.com (Coffee-The-Cat-WorX)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Euroshop C-300
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 14:16:35 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Palo Alto, CA, USA
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Just fyi: For the last two months I've been researching the
Combo-Machine approach to woodworking.  I'm a complete newbie with a
few master woodworker friends (close friends) - and from the outset
they told me that a combo-machine would be a good purchase if (and
only if) I "really" need to solve a shop space problem.  All of my
research (and it was intense and extensive) lead me to the conclusion
that if you're going to buy a combo-machine - and you don't have any
budget constraints - get a Felder - hands down the best on the market
- but if you worry about the bucks - get a EuroShop C-300 - and
specifically do not  opt for the X31 Roland.  Furthermore - if you
have the space for a TS, Shaper, Jointer & Planer - you'd be best
advised to purchase individual component pieces - which btw - is the
route I took - and I'm so happy I did - for a whole bunch of reasons
which would be repetitive to post here - but if you want to talk
directly just send me mail (daddieco@groove.zko.dec.com) and I'll ship
you my phone number.

D.


From platypus@coredcs.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:34 EST 1997
Article: 183177 of rec.woodworking
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From: platypus@coredcs.com (RAS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GUARD ?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 04:03:44 GMT
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PNealy@Erols.com (Pat Nealy) wrote:
> I removed my guard a long time ago, but I am careful to never
>stand behind the stock so as to avoid kickback.

Does not standing behind the stock, prevent kickback?  
or just misses you when it does happen?

RAS






From azkmack@netzone.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:35 EST 1997
Article: 183178 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Gerry Kmack" <azkmack@netzone.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with:  Delta 10" Compound Miter Saw
Date: 10 Feb 1997 14:08:29 GMT
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William,
I have owned a Delta 10" CMS for about 1 year, and have been (occasionally)
having problems similar to what you describe.  This weekend I decided to
try to track down the cause.

First thing, I carefully squared & adjusted all of the saws settings (as
you did). My 45 degree bevel stop was a bit off, but not much, and
everything else was just right.  hmm.....

I started working on my current project, which involved cutting 45 degree
mitres in 1x4 stock.  First two cuts were on small pieces, and they seemed
to fit perfectly.  The next cut was from a long (6 foot) piece of stock. 
*THAT* cut was off!  I went back to the saw  and here is what I found:

My saw has tubular brackets mounted on the right & left sides of the base.
(did you install yours?)  These puppies are intended to *support* longer
pieces of stock when they extend past the actual mitre saw base.  The place
on the RIGHT bracket where wood rests was actually *higher* than the mitre
saw base (by about 1/8", as best as I could measure).  So, whenever I cut a
piece that extended to the right far enough to rest on the extender, the
stock was elevated by a few degrees, causing my cut to be beveled by that
much (making a compound cut, even when I was not intending to make a
compound cut.)

Since my mitre saw is bolted to my bench and I wanted to finish my project,
I temporarily used a big "C" clamp to pull the offending support down out
of the way.  Next weekend, I will unmount the saw & remove the &*%$#
supports!

Hope this helps,

Gerry

RickM@mnsinc.com wrote in article <32fd58ee.5471597@news1.mnsinc.com>...
> On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 22:07:17 -0500, William Purnell <purnell@dmv.com>
> wrote:
> 
> >I recently purchased a Delta 10" compound miter saw.  I set about trying
> >to get the saw setup correctly.  I squared the blade to the table, the
> >blade to the fence, and the 90 and 45 degree compound angles.  However,
> >when I attempt to cut a compound 45 the cuts are not perpendicular to
> >the fence.  Any suggestions...   Anyone else have this problem....\



From peterl@tone.whoi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:35 EST 1997
Article: 183179 of rec.woodworking
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From: peterl@tone.whoi.edu (Peter Lemmond)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROS vs traditional finishing sander?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 14:25:55 GMT
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Brian, Roth, 462-3453 hpby EE wrote:
> 
> Random Orbit Sanders seem to be very popular today.  How do they
> compare against the traditional 1/3 sheet finishing sander?  Do
> they replace, or complement?
> 
> Brian
> 

I find my ROS (a Bosch, can't recall the model number, maybe DVS-16??)
pretty aggressive. It's good when I need to remove a lot of material,
but must be really careful, especially starting and stopping. It is
easier to handle than a belt sander, though that's not saying much.

Have a small, 1/4 sheet Milwaukee finishing sander that I like for
sanding in the >200 grit range. Feels more like "hand-sanding" than the
ROS.

As usual, the answer: Buy Both!

-Peter





From stewart@net-link.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:36 EST 1997
Article: 183180 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael J. Walter <stewart@net-link.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesemeyer Fence?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:59:32 GMT
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"Ken D." <kdeschene@lakefield.net> writes: > I just purchased a Jet Xacta Fence (52" homeshop) for my Craftsman 10"
> contractor's saw (about 5 years old). It will not bolt directly to my
> saw without drilling either the fence rail, or the saw table itself.
> Does anyone know if the Biesemeyer 50" homeshop fence will bolt to my
> saw without drilling new holes?  Any comments on either fence? 
> Thanks...

I just finished installing the Jet 30" homeshop fence on my 10" Craftsman
this last weekend. I drilled and countersunk new holes in the two angle
iron mounting rails on the fence. Other than that it went on great! I'm
very happy with it. I didn't have to do any other adjustments, it was
square and parallel right out of the box. 


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:37 EST 1997
Article: 183181 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Porter Cable Dovetail Jig too tight?Or is it just me?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 14:59:44 GMT
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Please help. I bought the $80.00 porter cable dovetail jig. It does half blind 
1/2" dovetails 1/4" if you buy a different finger template. I set it up and 
tried all the different adjustments(I think) but my joints are just too 
tight.I have to beat them together with a rubber hammer. I think the I have 
found the problem but would like your opinions.

The bit is .502 dia. and the guide bushing fits in the dovetail template with 
no play whatsoever(less than .003") this makes the dovtails fit extremely 
tight. I tried to glue one up and never got it all the way together.

What am doing wrong?  



From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:38 EST 1997
Article: 183182 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mahogany finish?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:08:08 GMT
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On 10 Feb 1997 01:22:36 GMT, jsumford@aol.com (JSumford) wrote:

>  Finally, apply
>paste wax (I use Minwax for dark surfaces) with OOOO steel wool and
>immediately wipe off excess.  

Is this the dark-tinted Minwax paste wax? dcr


From sbryant@capture.kodak.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:39 EST 1997
Article: 183183 of rec.woodworking
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From: sbryant@capture.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Foley Belsaw jointer/planer any good?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:49:53 -0500
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I will be going to an auction this weekend and they list a Foley Belsaw
jointer/planer. No size is mentioned. Does anyone know if this is a
good brand name and about how much does a new one go for?


From NOmkepkeSPAM@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:40 EST 1997
Article: 183184 of rec.woodworking
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From: NOmkepkeSPAM@nortel.ca (Mark Kepke)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:21:38 -0500
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In article <32fdee14.0@news3.paonline.com>, jlevin@paonline.com (John
Levin) wrote:

>In article <32fb83f3.5079244@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
gsinos@worldnet.att.net 
>says...
>>Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
>>short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
>>thousand feet?
>
>>>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
>>> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed boards.
>
>Unless you regularly work with 100 foot long boards, 200-300 LINEAL feet of 
>lumber is a lot of wood (for example, 300 lineal feet of 1x6s would be 37
and a 
>half 8 foot boards

Not to the planer. Let's assume you need to reduce 4/4 rough stock to
3/4".  On a 12" planer that's probably 3 passes at 1/16" (or less) each.

Therefore, each 8 foot board represents 24 lineal feet of wear and tear to
the planer (e.g. you hit the same knot up to three times).

Your 37.5 boards are suddenly 12.5 boards between cleanings.

Just a small flame for a Monday morning ;)

-Mark

-- 
My opinions, etc.


From peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:40 EST 1997
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From: Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:09:39 GMT
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In article <32F6F42C.5F42@california.com> StanR, stanr@california.com
writes:
>3. When you do remove the guard, retain the kerf splitter. It keeps the
>kerf from closing in on the blade and kicking back. Never apply side
>pressure behind the front edge of the blade.


I have the Delta CS.  The removal of the stock guard is difficult.  For
adjusting etc... you should be able to wing nut off the guard easily.  In
addition, removal of the guard is impossible from the splitter and
anti-kick back device.  This means your suggestion is useless on these
saws.....


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:41 EST 1997
Article: 183186 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Freud bits vibrate horrably.
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:23:57 GMT
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Hi, I recently bought a set of Freud cabinet maker's bits(the red ones in the 
wooden case) from William Alden. The Rail,Stile and Panel Jointing bits all 
run smooth but the Panel Raising bits makes more noise and vibrates a 
little(causes a droning sound).
The comination roundover/rabbiting bit is even worse,it makes a horrendous 
droning noise and vibrates alot. Is this normal or is this what I should 
expect from Freud. Please don't flame me, I am new at this.



From zickuhr@epc.lmms.lmco.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:42 EST 1997
Article: 183187 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kent Zickuhr <zickuhr@epc.lmms.lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Norm's new toy?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:02:47 -0800
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Roger & Jo Kempfer wrote:
> 
> jeffrey green wrote:
> >
> > In article <5d645b$n4r@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>, opencon@primenet.com
> > (Marty Escarcega) wrote:
> >
> > > Hitachi 3" Resaw CB75F I believe. 14 1/2" capacity. $2300 price tag at
> > William
> > > Alden.
> > >
> >
> > Not too get off this thread exactly, but, has anyone used a 3/4" blade for
> > resawing on a Jet or Delta 14" bandsaw?
> >
> > Does it work decent?
> >
> > jg
> 
> Most article I have read state that 1/2 " is the maximum you can use on
> the Delta/Jet,etc. bandsaws.  My experiece is that these articles are
> accurate.
> 
> rk

I've used a 3/4" 3TPI blade on my Delta BS for several years now. I've
used it
for everything from ripping 2x6s in half (the long way) to resawing ash
and walnut. It doesn't leave the best surface in the world and requires
a couple
of passes through the planer, but as far as the sawing goes, it does a
pretty
good job, not as well as a true re-saw I'm sure, but it gets the job
done. The 
one thing it does have is a substantial kerf. If you're trying to
conserve
some precious material, use a 1/2" and go slower.

Kent Zickuhr


From gofast@dreamscape.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:43 EST 1997
Article: 183188 of rec.woodworking
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From: gofast@dreamscape.com (Brian Bennett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 97 16:54:35 GMT
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In article <32FEB221.6CD1@cris.com>, Kevin <lantect@cris.com> wrote:
>...looking to get some clamps for:
>- glueing up panels
>- assembling
>
>"Shop Notes" did a review on the one-handed, quick gripping types and
>all 3 reviewers liked the Jorgensen EZ-Hold.  It's closest competitor
>was the Quick-Grip.  I've looked at both.  I like the "action" of the
>Quick-Grip, but the EZ is cheaper and also reversible (can act as a
>spreader). 
>
>But neither of these seems to be a solution for glueing up panels. 
>That's where I guess I need a "bar-clamp".  I looked at the Tool Crib
>catalog and the Jorgensen aluminum bar clamp seeems like a good buy at
>$29 for a 6-footer.  Any thoughts on an aluminum, square bar clamp.  I
>could go for the "Pony" fixtures and some black pipe, but the cost is
>not much less, and having a flat surface seems to be a big advantage for
>panel glue-up.
>
>Anyone have any good/bad experiences with clamps.  Right now, I'm
>leaning towards getting four 6 foot EZ Holds and three Jorgensen alum 6
>footers.
>
>Any thoughts on how many clamps to get -- and how long they should be? 
>I plan to get the longest ones possible.  I can always make them
>smaller.  Sometimes it may be inconvenient, but versatility in my small
>shop is key.
>
>Thanks!
>Kevin
>
The perfect number of clamps is always one more than I have.

Brian B.





From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:44 EST 1997
Article: 183189 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:52:54 GMT
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On 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT, Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net>
wrote:

>
>  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
>is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
>would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
>oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
>putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
>edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
> Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

You say "laminate", but don't identify the substrate or its thickness,
e.g. is it 3/4" veneer-core plywood, or 3/4" MDF or something else; is
it single or doubled?  I've done this using regular aliphatic resin
(yellow) glue, and simply pinned the rabbet with 1-3/16" 18 gauge
brads from underneath after clamping up.  You'll be finishing with a
water/alcohol resistent finish, I assume, so no need for epoxy or
resorcinal glues, or even the "waterproof" yellow glue like Titebond
II.  Screws are probably overkill, and unless you countersink and plug
them will be visible from underneath the bar when your guests are
trying to get up off the floor.  However, they will allow you to "pull
the joint home" top-to-bottom if you are short on clamps.  Just be
sure to over-bore the oak so the screw threads don't pull it away as
they tighten (an easy mistake to make if you're used to just driving
screws into softwood without pilot holes with a driver drill.  I've
also edgebanded doubled 3/4" veneer-core plywood with 1-1/2" square
stock using  biscuits, which helps with the alignment, tho this won't
give the tactal effect of a continuous 3" oak edge from underneath.  I
wouldn't worry at all about seasonal wood movement separating the oak
at the laminate edge.  You are fastening only on the narrow 1-1/2"
rabbet.  If it wants to move, the outer edge is not anchored.  dcr


From grm@lsci.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:45 EST 1997
Article: 183190 of rec.woodworking
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From: grm@lsci.com (gr Mansfield)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For Sale - Fine Woodworking magazines.
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:48:48 GMT
Organization: LSCI
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <5dng10$18e@news.mr.net>
Reply-To: grm@lsci.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mcgee.lsci.com
Keywords: magazines
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183190

I have a collection of Fine Woodworking magazines for sale.
The collection is complete from Issue 1 (Winter 1975) through
Issue 108 (October 1994).  The collection is in good to excellent
condition.

The best offer (email or phone) by February 18 takes the collection.

Greg
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Mansfield
LSC, Inc.                             email:  grm@lsci.com
4201 N. Lexington Ave, MS ARH206      voice:  612-482-2346
St. Paul, MN  55126                   fax:    612-482-4595
 
My body is mostly water so I sail.
If my body was made of snow, I would be fulfilled shoveling the driveway.




From James_Morgan@brown.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:46 EST 1997
Article: 183191 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!cocoa.brown.edu!news
From: James_Morgan@brown.edu (Jim Morgan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 18:47:25 GMT
Organization: Brown University, Providence, RI -- USA
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In article <01bc14b0.e3a25ec0$ca9e09ce@horizons>, jhparkhill@sihope.com says...
>
>Randy:
>
>Just the guy you're looking for, in my inventory I have the Bosch 1613EVS,
>the DeWalt 621 and the Freud FT2000E.
>
>Unfortunately I cannot speak to the Freud as to it's hand-held prowess as
>It was immediately mounted under the router table, and will live there
>happily forever.
>
>The only gripe I have with the FT2000E is there isn't a separate 1/4"
>collet, but instead an insert for 1/4" bits. I don't like them. 
[snip]

I agree - the 1/4" insert that comes with the Freud is a poor quality solution 
for the problem of using different bit sizes.  However, there is a 1/4" collet 
sold by B&D/DeWalt/Elu that fits the Freud router as well.  I don't whether 
this is the same as the collet that comes with the DeWalt 621, but I did buy 
mine at a B&D/DeWalt service shop for around $30.  I've also seen them in the 
Woodworker's Supply catalog.

To use: unscrew the black collet retaining nut completely and pull the silver 
collet out.  Be sure to snap the new collet completely into the nut - otherwise 
the collet will neither tighten sufficiently nor self-extract.

Jim Morgan



From dgreen@infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:35:46 EST 1997
Article: 183192 of rec.woodworking
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From: dgreen@infi.net (Doug Green)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Finish for mahogany table with inlay banding
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:31:26 -0500
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OK, the banding is in and the sanding is done.  It's a mahogany table -
sort of a cross between a huntboard and a sideboard.   What finish do I
use - and how  (yes, I realize this issue should have been resolved before
construction began, but better to ask now than to have to ask about
un-doing some mess).

My intention has been to put a couple of coats of thinned shellac on the
banding to protect it, then stain the mahogany with Bartley's gel stain,
and then a final varish top coat.   But when I look at my arthritic hands
and try to figure out how to put shellac on the banding without getting it
on the surrounding wood, I wonder if there's an alternative I haven't
considered.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:47 EST 1997
Article: 183193 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin A. Escarcega <opencon@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Freud bits vibrate horrably.
Date: 10 Feb 1997 08:56:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet (602)416-7000
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183193

Contact Freud Directly about your problem. It sounds very much like the
bit is out of balance. I wouldn't use it.

Marty

Lonnie Smith <Lonnie_Smith@dell.com> wrote:

: Hi, I recently bought a set of Freud cabinet maker's bits(the red ones in the 
: wooden case) from William Alden. The Rail,Stile and Panel Jointing bits all 
: run smooth but the Panel Raising bits makes more noise and vibrates a 
: little(causes a droning sound).
: The comination roundover/rabbiting bit is even worse,it makes a horrendous 
: droning noise and vibrates alot. Is this normal or is this what I should 
: expect from Freud. Please don't flame me, I am new at this.


--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Martin A. Escarcega                       __  __     ____  ___       ___ ____
opencon@primenet.com                     /__)/__) / / / / /_  /\  / /_    /
                                        /   / \  / / / / /__ /  \/ /___  /
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:49 EST 1997
Article: 183194 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:49:39 GMT
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
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In article <5dmel3$k9l@sjx-ixn8.ix.netcom.com>
*stev@ix.netcom.com (Stev) writes:

> 
> Get some Bessey K Body Clamps, faces stay parallel under pressure
> and they sit easy in the Bessey k-blocks or home made blocks.
> They are not cheap, but they are very good clamps.


I got a couple of Gross Stabil K clamps from Wm. Alden and they are
really excellent, and somewhat less expensive than Bessey clamps from
other companies.  Check them out too.



David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:50 EST 1997
Article: 183195 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:14:55 GMT
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On 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT, Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net>
wrote:

>
>  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
>is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
>would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
>oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
>putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
>edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
> Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

Further to my reply posted a few minutes ago, I think on reflection I
would indeed use a two-part epoxy glue, as no matter what finish you
put on the oak edgeband, you won't want the finish to cross the glue
joint onto the laminate. Otherwise, comments remain the same.  dcr


From jdlantz@innet.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:51 EST 1997
Article: 183196 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:51:35 -0600
From: jdlantz@innet.com
Subject: Sewing Table
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855589124.8816@dejanews.com>
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Need plans for a sewing table.  Would prefer one with
a 'flip top' so that the machine could be stored out of
sight when not in use.  Have only hand tools, so nothing
too elaborate, please.  Will pay a fair charge, of course.
Thanks...,  jd.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:52 EST 1997
Article: 183197 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:39:04 GMT
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I love my reconditioned (looks and seems like new to me) 5" random
orbit sander I got for 49 bucks.



David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:53 EST 1997
Article: 183198 of rec.woodworking
From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:22:48 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183198

> Agreed,but thank god I read the article on adjusting my Delta 10" TS 
transum here in rec.ww. I swapped blades untill I was blue in the face and 
still couldn't stop my chipping problems. I happened to have an old dial 
indicator from my auto mechanic days and found that my blade was .036" from 
parrallel with my miter slot. I set it parrallel within .00x and now no more 
chipping. Bottom line is that new tools require setup and having an accurate 
means to align them is essential to their proper operation. Just try test 
cutting your transum back in line.




In article <5di231$m5j@thrush.sover.net>, maplelw@sover.net says...
>
>Is it me or does it seem that people in this group are running around
>with calipers much more than is necessary? I've known many woodworkers
>who have done fine work without ever uttering how many thousandths
>this or that is over, under, whatever. Seems that most have been able
>to read to 1/128" (7.8 thousandths but usually known as half a whisker
>in these parts) off a tape measure or folding rule. Anything in wood
>needing to be much more accurate will be different by morning anyway.
>I did break down and buy calipers a few months ago for our production
>shop but mainly because we are having some equipment built by an
>engineer who needed information to his level of accuracy and
>understanding (he is having difficulty relating to the degree to which
>wood can change).
>
>Everyone goes to align their TS blade to their miter slot to .00x but
>but do they do it when its running and hot (guaranteed it will be
>different, even on a PM66) and do they set their miter gauge to the
>same level of angular accuracy?
> 
>I am not lobbying against accuracy but there are limits, especially
>when working with wood. Seems that things should be judged on the
>results you are getting not by the reading on a dial. Again, is it
>invasion of the machinists and engineers or am I out of touch?   
>
>Mike Rainville
>



From water@tznet.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:54 EST 1997
Article: 183199 of rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:18:39 -0600
From: water@tznet.com (Tim Hoyman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183199

In article <797d285947@millard.demon.co.uk>, Jeff Gorman 
> 
> I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
> take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
> and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
> reply.
> 
> Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
> 
> Jeff
> -- 
> Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
> jeff@millard.demon.co.uk

I agree with Jeff on this one, if the person just wants the replies
emailed because they do not want (lazy?) to come back to rec.ww and check
for replies.  If it is info that is really not for a large chunk of the
group, as in,how do you tighten the collet on a PC 609?  Then, the replies
really should be emailed.  This is something that applies to newcomers and
vets - we should save as much bandwidth as possible.

My personal peeve is when people throw up a question and ask others to
take time to give them advice and they do not even have the simple
consideration to put their real name or even initials at the bottom of the
post.

Tim


From lharts@unm.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:55 EST 1997
Article: 183200 of rec.woodworking
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From: lharts@unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 10 Feb 1997 08:33:45 -0700
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
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Message-ID: <5dnf4p$3g1q@indus.unm.edu>
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  I don't seem to be bothered any of the problems mentioned in this
thread. (maybe due to the .edu address ) But I can tell you one 
thing if I cant reply to a (From) address I don't bother trying
to figure out how to get an answer to the questioner. Just trying
to reduce the excess trafic on this news group.   ...lew...



From gwatts@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:56 EST 1997
Article: 183201 of rec.woodworking
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From: gwatts@cv.hp.com (Gary Watts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dial Indicators w/ Miter Gauge Bars; Am I fantasizing,
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:17:47 GMT
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Bradley A. Stolzer (WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM) wrote:
:  Subject line says it all;  I think I remember seeing a dial indicator that
: had a bar that runs in your miter gauge slot, rather than a magnetic base
: like most of them have.  Wouldn't this be the best instrument for ensuring
: that your tablesaw blade is perfectly parallel to the miter gauge slot?  But,
: I can't find it now in any of my catalogues.

: Has anybody seen this?

There's a color ad in most of the woodworking mags.  It's $89.00 for an 
anodized aluminum unit and the dial indicator.  

Gary


From logic@prairie.lakes.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:56 EST 1997
Article: 183202 of rec.woodworking
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From: logic@prairie.lakes.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Solid  Core Oak Veneer Composite Fire Door
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:58:41 GMT
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Hi..

At a recent auction, I managed to buy 4 solid core oak veneer composite fire
doors (Weyerhauser).  Each is 1 3\4" x 24" x 80", very heavy, and dead flat.  
Anyone have any idea what the core material is?

I want to use one of them to build a benchtop complete with dog holes and vises.
My plan is to sandwich the door between a piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 
1/2" plywood giving me a full 3" benchtop.  The main reason for the "sandwhich" 
is that if, as I suspect, the core is particleboard, I'm not sure that the core would
stand up to "dog abuse".  Also, the veneer appears to be between 1/16" and
1/8" thick - rather thin to stand up to "dog abuse". 

Does the above plan appear sound?  Any comments, suggestions, etc. greatfully
appreciated.

TIA
Al Hart


From pecknold@istar.ca Sat Feb 15 11:35:57 EST 1997
Article: 183203 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sean & Katrina Pecknold <pecknold@istar.ca>
Newsgroups: can.atlantic.forsale,can.atlantic.general,can.forsale,ns.forsale,ns.general,rec.crafts.carving,rec.misc.forsale,rec.woodworking
Subject: Ecolumber for sale!!
Date: 9 Feb 1997 01:46:12 GMT
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Maple Creek Farm in Hants County, Nova Scotia is launching an
ecoforestry initiative. 
	We now have cherry, oak and pine lumber sawn and available. Maple,
spruce and poplar can be made available (green) on fairly short notice.
	For cherry and oak lumber, the specifics are: various lengths and
widths, 1 1/8" and 2 1/4" thick, one live edge. These boards are now in
the process of being air-dried.
	For pine lumber, these boards are now air-dried, of various widths and
lengths, 5/8" and 2" thick.
	Our price is 40% off retail. Our Halifax cell phone number is (902)
497-2972, or we can be reached at rloucks@auracom.com. Please	visit our
website - http://home.istar.ca/~pecknold/farm.shtml


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:35:58 EST 1997
Article: 183204 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:39:42 GMT
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How NOT to use Sawdust. If you live in the southern  U.S. do not use it as 
flower bed mulch near your house. The terminites will infest it and then 
your home!!! Cedar is O.K. though.









In article <3f41285947@millard.demon.co.uk>, Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk says...
>
>
>Viliam Holuby wrote:
>
>~  I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is lot =
>~  of wooden garbage and sawdust.
>~  Does anybody have any idea how to use it ?
>
>I happen to have made notes on this topic, so to save everyone's time,
>here is an edited summary of the uses of /sawdust/ (presumably dry
>sawdust) as posted fairly recently.
>
>Use old sawdust as a weed protector between rows then hoe it in.
>
>Mulching rhododendrons. "Anything in the heath family, Ericaeae, is
>said to love acid and would love the very acid oak sawdust. Things
>that hate acid, on the other hand will keel over and die, or at least
>do really poorly".  
>
>Ideal for mixing with lawn mowings, the two together are better than
>one. Grass clippings are said to be high in nitrogen, but lack carbon
>which the sawdust supplies. Same with leaves, pine needles and
>newspapers. (Probably will also help to keep the grass from forming a
>mat and helps to let the air in).
>
>Note from JG
>Reservations were expressed about depletion of nitrogen
>from the soil. Sawdust itself is low in nitrogen. Fungi digest the
>sawdust, incorporating nitrogen from the soil into their bodies. When
>the fungi die, the nitrogen is returned to the soil. A note from
>"Chemistry in the Utilisation of Wood - RH Farmer - Officer-in-Charge
>of the Chemistry Section of the Uk Forest Products Research Laboratory
>- "nitrogen deficiency .......... becomes more apparent in the second
>and third year after applying sawdust, when its decomposition becomes
>more advanced". To overcome the temporary depletion, add a
>high-nitrogen fertiliser to the mix.  Farmer gives the proportion of
>fertiliser as about 1/2 cwt of ammonium sulphate per ton of sawdust.
>
>"Let it age for a year in the garden", but Farmer says "it is
>preferable to use material that is 3 or 4 years old".
>
>Use it for animal bedding. Most fruit woods are safe, but Red Cedar is
>a definite no for some animals. Walnut is said to be toxic to horses.
>Also said to be bad for plants.
>
>Lining the floor of a chicken coop. Make sure there are no nails and
>suchlike. (RH Farmer says that "Probably the best way of using sawdust
>in horticulture is to compost it with animal or poultry manure in the
>proportion of three parts of sawdust to one of manure. ....... If
>poultry manure is not available, use urea or Nitro-Chalk as an
>activator".
>
>For smoking meats and fish. "We make our own sausage which we smoke
>with maple sawdust and sometimes with a little (American?) Cherry
>thrown in".
>
>Use it for soaking up oil spills in the garage.
>
>For cleaning greasy hands and tools after auto work.
> 
>Also for removing the wet gunge formed by paint and varnish removers. 
>
>Take half a cup and fill it half to 3/4 full of sawdust. Melt some
>paraffin wax (use kitchen candles and do it in a double pan) and pour
>into the cup (away from a naked flame). Good for lighting campfires
>(or garden bonfires).
>
>Another suggestion was to use old film cassette containers for
>mini-firelighter moulds.
>
>Use it to store root crops in.
>
>Give it to a school for use in pottery. ( Eg, firing by the Raku
>process in which red-hot, specially glazed pots are immersed in
>sawdust).
>
>And a new one from me. Use dried shavings/turnings for a bran
>substitute for an old-fashioned lucky dip brantub for the next
>fund-raising event
>
>Caveat: Repetition does not constitute an endorsement.
>
>Jeff
>-- 
>Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
>jeff@millard.demon.co.uk



From mevere01@fiu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:35:59 EST 1997
Article: 183205 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:41:17 -0600
From: mevere01@fiu.edu
Subject: Re: pea sheller
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855592827.11480@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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In article <32FB72E0.3C76@gulf.net>,
  obobrien@gulf.net wrote:
>
> Try your county ag extension agent.  He usually would have plans for
> one.
>   I have one somewheres around but am unable to find my stir stick right
> now.  Maybe later...closer to pea shellin time <G>
>
> OB-One

Thanks OB-ONE, I foregot that sometimes the government really is here to
help  Bob in South FL

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From rjones@eecs.umich.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:00 EST 1997
Article: 183206 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Randolph M. Jones" <rjones@eecs.umich.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:43:17 -0500
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HK wrote:
> 
> Although it might increase internet traffic overall, I think the
> addition of more ww. groups will mean less messages for any one group
> and satisfy special interests.  If there is a news server that can
> reject messages that are cross-posted in the header, there will be much
> less cross-posting.  If someone felt a message really needed to be heard
> more than one group, he would have to send a copy to each group without
> cross-posting in the header.  This will also reduce the cross-posted
> replies.

Yuck.  The news readers I use will mark all instances of a cross-
posted message as read as soon as I read the first one, so I don't
see it multiple times.  If people started sending multiple copies
instead of cross-posting (many spammers already do this, but your
solution would force them to), I would have to look at every copy
they send out.


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:01 EST 1997
Article: 183207 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: New Yankee Workshop Time
Date: 10 Feb 1997 15:37:14 GMT
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If you can get on the web, your local PBS affiliate probably has a web
site listing all the times of all the shows they broadcast.  To get to
that site, go to www.pbs.org and they have a way to get to all local
stations from there.



David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:01 EST 1997
Article: 183208 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:10:31 GMT
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On 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT, Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net>
wrote:

>
>  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
>is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
>would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
>oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
>putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
>edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
> Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.
>
>T.I.A.
>
>Scott
>



From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:02 EST 1997
Article: 183209 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What makes the best Shellac brush??
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:55:05 GMT
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When it comes to brushes that can flow on a smooth finish epecially
brushing laquer or shellac, it's tough to beat Badger hair. They're
expensive $15-$30 depending on size but will last a very long time if
cared for. Available from many mail order houses like Garrett-Wade,
Woodcraft, etc. French Polishing as per previous message also works great,
but takes a little time to master and apply.


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:03 EST 1997
Article: 183210 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Message-ID: <8D1C205.02330125B4.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 97 08:37:00 -0600
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Joanne Liebler has her own show on cable; I saw it once and IMHO she
comes across nice but too complacent and not at all like her Independent
DIY style as on those Shows with Dean,,Also FWIW Dean has had by my
count 4 different ladies help him on those shows and the most recent one
is no reject-and i believe they are married...BTW that new show Joanne
duz is a show where she shows off new architecture in homes and new
houseplans ,ideas,etc..In my area [Chicago} the station is 53 and she
comes on around 10pm possibly,,The station is one that has nothin on it
but Home stuff and Howto stuff if that helps.......
                                       Lee Ward

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From rhybels@uic.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:04 EST 1997
Article: 183211 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ralph Hybels <rhybels@uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:33:36 -0600
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I'll keep my reply short because the topic of Craftsman power tools has
been all too well-covered already in this group.  Peruse the DejaNews
archive for more than you'd ever want to know about what's wrong (and
possibly occasionally right) about Craftsman tools.

But in short: UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES BUY ANY CRAFTSMAN POWER TOOL!!!!

There, that should cover it.

If you want to learn about alternative not-too expensive brands, peruse
DejaNews from this group looking for discussions of planers and
jointers.  One company to consider is Grizzly, but there are several
others.  Just whatever you do, don't buy Craftsman.

Ralph

Claude Livernoche wrote:
> 
> I want to get a planer and i am considering the 12 1/2" Craftsman. I
> would appreciate your comments.
> Also, any comments about Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer (3 blades)?
> --
> 
> cliver@quebectel.com


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:05 EST 1997
Article: 183213 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:05:39 GMT
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I have the Freud 8" safety dado. It is a stack type for 1/4-13/16" dados.
I also got the optional shim kit to fine tune dados for exact fit when
necc. This is about $130-$140. If I were to do it again however, I would
go with the Freud Super Dado which has 4 arm chippers, and a 3/32"
chipper, Allows you to make plywood width dados without shimming. Both are
anti-kickback designs and leave really fine cuts.


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:06 EST 1997
Article: 183214 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:14:27 GMT
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Well, I have to agree with previous post about Bessey. They are such a
pleasure to use and are very strong, accurate, and true. The jaws do not
cock when tightnened so panels glue ups stay flat. Jaws project to sides
so clamps can be used laying on side for wider jaw contact. And once
clamped, panels with clamps can be stood on end of clamps out of your way
until dry. They also have k-blocks a simplebut effective support block set
to hold 4 k-clamps for frame glue ups. This all comes at a price however-
they aren't cheap. (They did have a $2/clamp rebate recently). I got some
on sale at Woodworker's Warehouse at about $8-$10 off plus the rebate
which makes them a little more reasonable. I have also used the simple
pony clamps on iron pipe. These can be had for about $8 per set plus pipe.


From water@tznet.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:07 EST 1997
Article: 183215 of rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:26:41 -0600
From: water@tznet.com (Tim Hoyman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesemeyer Fence?
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> "Ken D." <kdeschene@lakefield.net> writes: > I just purchased a Jet
Xacta Fence (52" homeshop) for my Craftsman 10"
> > contractor's saw (about 5 years old). It will not bolt directly to my
> > saw without drilling either the fence rail, or the saw table itself.
> > Does anyone know if the Biesemeyer 50" homeshop fence will bolt to my
> > saw without drilling new holes?  Any comments on either fence? 
> > Thanks...
> 

Ken,

Sears sells some of their CSs with Biesemeyer fences, I had one for a
couple of years.  If you give Sears a call, find out if the one they sell
is made by Biesemeyer (now Delta) for their saws, or if they all fit
Craftsman saws.  If they do, I would think you can get a fence cheaper
>from  Delta then from Sears. 


Tim


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:08 EST 1997
Article: 183216 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hardwood Grading?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:17:15 GMT
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Well, this may be a dumb question, but one that I haven't seen posted in a
while. Can anyone give us a comprehensive review of the wood grading
system and what is allowed for each grade? i.e.- FAS, S4S, S2S, Select,
1C, etc.


From davfessler@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:09 EST 1997
Article: 183217 of rec.woodworking
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From: davfessler@aol.com (DavFessler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Edge planing a long board
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:23:17 GMT
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I routinely edge joint boards as long as 12 feet using my little old Sears
Craftsman 4" jointer with a couple of infeed and outfeed extensions
manufactured by a company called Jointer's Edge.  They went bankrupt, but
made a great product.  The extensions are also useful on my drill press,
shaper, bandsaw, etc. and can be moved and completely leveled fromn one
machine to another in less than 5 minutes.  Best investment I ever made.


From btallis@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:10 EST 1997
Article: 183218 of rec.woodworking
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From: btallis@cv.hp.com (Brad R Tallis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Slipage!
Date: 10 Feb 1997 16:22:48 GMT
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Hello All-

I ran into a problem this weekend that really has me bothered.
I was routing cherry planks and only making cuts about 1/8"
deep.  As I would rout, the depth adjust would slip and allow 
the bit to sink into the wood at least 1/16".  And the depth
adjust lock was on!  To me, this seems dangerous.  Plus it
almost ruined an expensive piece of cherry (it was the ONE
piece I had picked out for the headboard that was _absolutely_
beautiful!)

I've had the router for over a year with probably about 30-40
hours of use.  I dought it is still under warranty.  What
should I do?  Take it apart and hope to see whats wrong?

Also, could you recommend a good router for the "general"
hobbist?

Thanks for your help-
Brad

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--									   --
--  Brad Tallis					btallis@hpcvsgen.cv.hp.com --
--  Information Technology Specialist		         	           --
--  Hewlett-Packard, Inkjet Business Unit	         		   --
--  Corvallis, OR							   --
--									   --
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:11 EST 1997
Article: 183219 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tips on working with Ebony
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:11:59 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <19970209092500.EAA03339@ladder01.news.aol.com>, aandrlee@aol.com says...
>
>I am interested in any info related to working with Ebony. I am
>considering using the wood for a small box but I am a bit worried about
>the reliability of the wood/glue joints. I would like to think that this
>box will be around for my grandchildren so I would like to do my best to
>minimize any risk of checking or cracking. Also, Any finishing tips would
>also be immensely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Ebony is one of the most stable woods on the face of the earth (thus
it's status as the wood of choice for stringed instrument fingerboards and
bridges...).  I'm not sure if I've ever seen a piece check or crack of its own
accord... It's also extremely hard, dense, and takes a high polish
by burnishing, so oil finishes work extremely well with it.  There are
several species of woods sold as ebony, with different oil contents, and
while aliphatic resin glues generally work well, epoxies are pretty much
a sure thing.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:12 EST 1997
Article: 183220 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: 12inch planer any recomendations !
Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News)
Message-ID: <E5EDn3.Do4@apollo.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:23:26 GMT
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In article <32FD1D31.7598@earthlink.com> Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com> writes:
>exception of a Powematic 15" about a year ago. One of my William Alden
>catalogs has the 22-540 priced at $329.79 with a disclaimer of, "limited
>to stock on hand".

I called William Alden two weeks ago to get a quote on the Delta
planer, and the sales rep told me that they'd dropped Delta.
Maybe that was a clearing-out sale.

(Actually, she said Delta dropped them.  "We were selling at
lower margins than they liked."  Mind, I'm just passing on what
I was told.  I presume the "no more Delta" part is at least fact.)
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From davfessler@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:13 EST 1997
Article: 183221 of rec.woodworking
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From: davfessler@aol.com (DavFessler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Options for flattening wide planks
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:35:58 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I use my 16" wide jointer I paid $500 for.  Big WW machines aren't always
big bucks; you just need to keep your eyes out for a good used machine. 
You also need to have the space and the means to get it into your shop. 
Where there's a will, there's a way...
Dave


From davewe@worldstar.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:14 EST 1997
Article: 183222 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Weisbord <davewe@worldstar.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Inlay with Router?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:46:03 +0000
Organization: ICLnet of Tigard, Oregon, USA.
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Jeff Edwards wrote:
> 
> I would like to learn how to In-lay and have been reading up on the
> subject. Most articles tell me to buy a special "mini" router with the
> 1/8" shafts. Does anyone know if I can get router bits to fit my 1/4"
> model.
> Anyone know where I can get instructions on in-laying mother -of -pearl
> and similar?

There are 2 books I'm familiar with: Larry Robinson's, The Art of 
Inlay; and Pearl Inlay by James Patterson.

While the tools you need are not a particularly big expenditure, you 
probably will want a Dremel or comparable tool (I've got the Ryobi). 
Depending on what you are going to inlay a flex shaft is nice, though 
not essential. I got the Ryobi bundled with their flexshaft at 
Homebase or Homedepot (can't remember which) for $59.95. That, a 
jewelers saw, and a few other tools are all you need.

Dave

BTW, I don't know if these books are readily available at book stores. 
But I do know they are available at luthier supply places such as Stew 
Mac: 800-848-2273.


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:15 EST 1997
Article: 183223 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: 10 Feb 1997 17:31:31 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <32FEA219.7E88@erols.com>, bearfoot@erols.com says...
>
>What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??
>
>Paul

I can't actually compare the two, because I've only used the Senco.  My
reasons for choosing the Senco over other brands were:

It's oilless.
Brads/nails are easier to find than any other brand, at least in my area.

It's been a great machine, in any case. (SFN-1)

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From mdfranci@airmail.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:16 EST 1997
Article: 183224 of rec.woodworking
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From: mdfranci@airmail.net (Mike Francis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wooden Horse
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:01:19 GMT
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I am looking for some plans for a small woodem horse with wheels for
my 5 year old daughter. I dont know if someone has seen any plans I
can download from the net. Most of the plans I have seen are for
rocking horses . I want a simple plan and nothing to elaborate Can
anyone help?? ?
                               Mike Francis


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:17 EST 1997
Article: 183225 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for mahogany table with inlay banding
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:36:55 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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dgreen@infi.net (Doug Green) wrote:

;OK, the banding is in and the sanding is done.  It's a mahogany table
-
;sort of a cross between a huntboard and a sideboard.   What finish do
I
;use - and how  (yes, I realize this issue should have been resolved
before
;construction began, but better to ask now than to have to ask about
;un-doing some mess).

;My intention has been to put a couple of coats of thinned shellac on
the
;banding to protect it, then stain the mahogany with Bartley's gel
stain,
;and then a final varish top coat.   But when I look at my arthritic
hands
;and try to figure out how to put shellac on the banding without
getting it
;on the surrounding wood, I wonder if there's an alternative I haven't
;considered.

;Suggestions greatly appreciated.

Doug what kind of inlay are you using ,is it light in colour or is
there little contrast,also the stain you intend to use ,is it brown or
red mahogany?
                         mjh



From ron-griffin@tamu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:36:17 EST 1997
Article: 183226 of rec.woodworking
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From: ron-griffin@tamu.edu (Ronald C. Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Makita 12" Planer
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:37:14 -0600
Organization: Texas A&M University
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For those of you who are planer shopping, I just received the Makita.  $500
but seemingly worth the $.  I mailordered it (although I had never seen
one) based on the review in Shopnotes.  
I'm impressed.  Nicely finished, compact, easy to get ahold of and carry,
plug-in and plane right out of the box.  Beautiful results.  Comes with
little magnetic doo-ma-jiggies for knife setting, but I haven't needed to
do that yet.
A big difference between it and the competition is that the cutterhead is
fixed and you adjust the bed up and down on the Makita.  This has both pros
and cons when you think about it, but the pros outweigh for me.
-- 
Ronald C. Griffin
Texas A&M University
College Station, TX  77843-2124
409-845-7049
409-845-7122 (fax)


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:18 EST 1997
Article: 183227 of rec.woodworking
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From: bob6666 <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:51:36 -0800
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183227

John Levin wrote:
> 
> In article <32fb83f3.5079244@netnews.worldnet.att.net>, gsinos@worldnet.att.net
> says...
> >Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
> >short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
> >thousand feet?
> 
> >>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
> >> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed boards.
> 
> Unless you regularly work with 100 foot long boards, 200-300 LINEAL feet of
> lumber is a lot of wood (for example, 300 lineal feet of 1x6s would be 37 and a
> half 8 foot boards
 Not true, a lineal foot is not a board foot(a foot of string and a foot
of road is still a foot)but your right a football field run of wood is
alot.                 



BOB


From dosgood@proxima.gsfc.nasa.gov Sat Feb 15 11:36:19 EST 1997
Article: 183228 of rec.woodworking
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From: dosgood@proxima.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dean Osgood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: weight of cord of wood
Date: 10 Feb 1997 18:07:13 GMT
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 <19970204140200.JAA05104@ladder01.news.aol.com>  
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I seem to remember reading the weights of full cords of common
firewoods a few years ago as varying from <5,000 pounds to >6,000
pounds.
Another way to state the weight is that a 1/2 ton pickup will never
hold a full cord, and you might well bust the springs on a heavy duty
3/4 to truck with a full cord onboard (as I did once when young and
foolish)
Dean


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:20 EST 1997
Article: 183229 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressors vs. HVLP systems
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:23:26 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183229

RBowles96@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Appreciate the summary comparison!  Makes sense and answers questions for me
> that I've not had enough insight to ask (even me).

I am glad to lend a hand. I think I forgot to mention the issue of a
bleeder gun (as you get with most HVLP's) vs. non-bleeder which some
HVLP's and most conventional (incl. conversion) guns can be adapted to.

The disadvantage of a bleeder is that you have the ever-present stream
of air shooting out of the air cap,  possibly kicking kicking up dust,
but more important, accelerating the drying of the finish if, for
example, you are shooting a stool which has legs and rungs. With
practice and some retarder, this laibility can be compensated for.

The advantage of a bleeder gun which also pressurizes the attached cup
is that the same ever-present flow of air is keeping that cup
pressurized and agitating the finish all at the same time (on a
non-bleeder this only happens when you depress the trigger). This is
helpful if you are spraying a satin or flat finish (flatting agent has
been added to your finish, and this stuff is in suspension, i.e. it does
not dissolve).

I installed a special valve made by LexAire in the handle of my 710
Croix/Graco gun to turn it into a non-bleeder. The theory is that the
valve could restrict the flow of needed air through the gun, so that
this is actually not desireable. The HVLP's that are non-bleeder are
made that way, so such a valve would not be an issue (two examples of
non-bleeder guns are the Titan -- available through most
Sherwin-Williams outlets at a hefty price -- and the Accuspray (which is
the same gun that the Eagle HVLP spray system uses). Both are great
guns.

Last, I think that any of what I find to be issues and features of HVLP
vs. conventional (compressed air) guns (including conversion guns which
are HVLP guns designed to be run with a compressor instead of a turbine)
are NOT addressed in a new book about spraying called "Spray Finishing"
by Andy Charron (published by the Taunton Press). That makes this new
book woefully deficient and less than useful, which is what we should
come to expect when it comes to any aspect of the finishing world with
regard to the Taunton Press. It is my less-than-kind observation that
the publishers should be thouroughly acquanted with the creases and
folds of their own rectal walls and cavities by now, having had their
heads up their asses for so long with regard to finishing. Shame on
them, but it figures.
-- 
 Daniel


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:21 EST 1997
Article: 183230 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:46:58 -0600
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Kevin- for versatility/budget, pipe clamps with couplers is a pretty
good way to go. In pairs, 2 3ft lentgths, 2 couplers, and 2 2 footers,
+ 2 1 footers, gives you 3 to 6 ft variables. If you then purchase 
another pair of "ends" you have 4 clamps of varying length as your needs
dictate, and this type of system is easily expandable by adding 
additional 2 footers, etc.
Pipe clamps are not as elegant as the bar clamps others mention, but the
cost per foot of clamping power is probably the lowest.

Roger H.
-- 
Life is too important to take seriously.


From dgreen@infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:23 EST 1997
Article: 183231 of rec.woodworking
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From: dgreen@infi.net (Doug Green)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for mahogany table with inlay banding
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:50:20 -0500
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In article <5dnlqd$l8v@camel0.mindspring.com>, mikehide@mindspring.com
(Michael John Hide) wrote:


> 
> Doug what kind of inlay are you using ,is it light in colour or is
> there little contrast,also the stain you intend to use ,is it brown or
> red mahogany?
>                        
The inlay (from Woodcraft Supply) is a geometric pattern - kind of like a
sideways checkerboard - light and dark, with a very fine light edge.   I
plan to use the drown mahogany stain so the tone will match other pieces
in the room.


From dgreen@infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:24 EST 1997
Article: 183232 of rec.woodworking
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From: dgreen@infi.net (Doug Green)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:52:30 -0500
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In article <8D1C205.02330125B4.uuout@corpsoft.com>, lee.ward@corpsoft.com
(LEE WARD) wrote:

> Joanne Liebler has her own show on cable; 

HGTV - House & Garden TV    ---- the show is "Room for Change"


From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:36:24 EST 1997
Article: 183233 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: will humidor mosture lift finish on outside of box?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:07:40 -0500
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 5-Feb-97 Re: will humidor mosture
li.. by Ron Williams@bway.net 
> In article <32f7bcf6.92126275@nntp.interaccess.com>, jelkil@interaccess.com
> wrote:
> 
> > I plan to finish a very large (2 ft on a side, 3 drawers) humidor on
> > the outside only.  will the moisture inside migrate through and cause
> > the exterior finish to lift?  If so, should I use tung oil?  wouldn't
> > that hold?
> > 
> > tom
> > pls cc your post w/email to jelkil@interaccess.com
> 
> I'd say the humidor will probably fall apart ("Blow out" its joints as they

    I don't know if it will blow out, but it certainly will be a bear to
use.  Sealing the interior is a necessary step to containing the
interior humidity.

> say). I built a Red Oak humidor for a friend, lined it with Spanish Cedar
> and saw it fall to pieces about a month later. The inside of the humidor
> must be sealed against moisture transfer before the cedar is installed. All
> you need is the required 70% humidity inside the box and a heated winter
> room with 40 or 50% humidity and its all over. 

    Even better, you could live in the Northeast, where the 70-72%
inside is dealing with the 20-30% outside!  If it's not completely
sealed, forget it!

> I'd reccommend something
> like West System Epoxy for an inside coating. Good luck.

    Well, we agreed up to here.  I wouldn't use any heavy finish for the
interior, and certainly not epoxy.  I use several coats of shellac, and
have found it to work wonderfully.  Best of all, there is not outgassing
with shellac, so you don't have to wait a week or so for the finish to
cure.  It may seem like epoxy or poly has little smell after 24 hours,
but put some in a closed box and you'll get a surprise!

    Another tip I would offer is to miter, rather than glue the cedar
into the box.  I cover the bottom with one flat piece, which is fitted
with a tiny bit of room to spare.  Then I tightly miter the four side
pieces in, such that they can barely be fit in, and pin the bottom in
place.  This way, in case you ever get tobacco bettles or the like, the
liner can be removed and replaced, rather than disposing of the whole
box.

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:25 EST 1997
Article: 183234 of rec.woodworking
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From: bob6666 <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:10:04 -0800
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John Levin wrote:
> 
> In article <32fb83f3.5079244@netnews.worldnet.att.net>, gsinos@worldnet.att.net
> says...
> >Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
> >short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
> >thousand feet?
> 
> >>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
> >> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed boards.
> 
> Unless you regularly work with 100 foot long boards, 200-300 LINEAL feet of
> lumber is a lot of wood (for example, 300 lineal feet of 1x6s would be 37 and a
> half 8 foot boards



sorry for my last you are right. My bain took Mardi Ggras week off.
                                  sorry again
                                        BOB


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:26 EST 1997
Article: 183235 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Powermatic 6 inch Joiner Owners
Message-ID: <32FF684F.1B79@qgraph.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:26:23 -0600
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Brian wrote:
> 
> I would be interrested in hearing from someone who ownes one of these
> machines and what made you buy it over other brands.I can buy a model
> 54  for about $600. It appears to be a solid machine but I would
> consider other machines if there are better ones at this price level.
> E- mail me.
> 
> Brian

I have the one in question, but look at the JET.  Same thing, better
switch, has dust collector port and 2 year warranty (When I bought mine
it was not the same).

Price is less too.
BTW - Mine does a very nice job, well untill I knocked the knives!:)



From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:36:27 EST 1997
Article: 183236 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brad Nailers ...  What size do I need?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:27:28 UNDEFINED
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In article <32FD7F85.1895@mc.net> Dan Krueger <dkrueger@mc.net> writes:
>From: Dan Krueger <dkrueger@mc.net>
>Subject: Re: Brad Nailers ...  What size do I need?
>Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 01:40:53 -0600

>Bill Moore wrote:
>> 
>> David Misevich (davem@had.horiba.com) wrote:
>> : I have the 18 ga. Porter Cable 2" and I love it. You will not believe the
>> : holding power of those little suckers. I even used it to hang a door the
>> : other day. Solid as a rock. (Flameproof suit ready...)
>> 
>> I've heard that the brads are coated with something that melts upon insertion
>> due to friction, and then hardens again when it's in the wood. Acts like an
>> adhesive at that point, giving the brads some extra holding power.
>> 
>> For the record, I have an Airy 18ga that takes up to 1 9/16" brads. Love it!


>Hanging doors with a 18ga brad is NOT recommended!  You should always
>use a minimum of a 16ga!  The coating, while great for "pull-out"
>strength, does nothing for shear strength.  Doors just endure too much
>movement for a brad of that diameter.


So you use more of them, no big whoop.  If you have an 18g nailer, and don't 
have a 16, then you use the 18.

Personally, I use trim head, square drive screws.  That way I can take them 
back out to adjust if I have to (yeah, I'm anal about hanging doors).  I place 
most of the screws where the stop will go, so I need not worry about puttying 
over the heads (yeah, I also make my door frames and stops.  Goes back to that 
anal thing).

S
>BTW-My pick for a 2" Brad Nailer is the Bostitch BT50.  It is US made,
>can bury a 2" brad into solid oak, and sells for under $200.

So, what gauge is it?

My concern with gauge is that the 16g I used had bigger heads - not finishing 
nail heads.  The hole is MUCH bigger than an 18g brad hole - real annoying.

Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:36:28 EST 1997
Article: 183237 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:30:09 UNDEFINED
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In article <5ddoeh$lqo@news2.tds.net> Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@*mail.tds.net> writes:
>From: Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@*mail.tds.net>
>Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
>Date: Thu, 06 Feb 1997 18:11:19 -0800

>Dave wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
>> HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
>> over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?

>Yeah! I noticed. He must have changed his hair or something too, he
>looks younger. Maybe its all that weight he has lost.


Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable 
station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have 
less fancy tools.

Rich




From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:29 EST 1997
Article: 183238 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Message-ID: <32FF6A45.7A64@qgraph.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:34:45 -0600
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Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?

Thnx
Damian



From mpeele@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:36:30 EST 1997
Article: 183239 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gazebo Plans?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:14:09 -0500
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P McCarthy wrote:
> 
> I am looking for plans, photographs etc. for a gazebo  that can be
> screened. Can anyone help me out? Or is there another news news group
> where  this request might be more appropriate?

There is a book titled "Gazebos" by Peter Harrison which has designs
of clasical gazebos and gazebos on historical properties. It does not
contain construction plans, just designs. Barns & Noble and Book Starr
have his books or can get them.


Michael Peele

I know Peter and all 5 of his books


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:30 EST 1997
Article: 183240 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander????
Message-ID: <32FF6ACC.5F3B@qgraph.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:37:00 -0600
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I found the Delta 4" belt/6" disc sander at my local Fleet Farm store
for $99.  Thats a great deal as far as I can tell.  This is a bench top
and I am wondering if this is enough sander for most uses (vs.
purchasing a pedistal 6" belt 8 or 9" disc)???

Any advice or experience would be welcome.  Damian



From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:31 EST 1997
Article: 183241 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Favorite (Best) Woodworking Books?
Date: 8 Feb 1997 23:10:55 GMT
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In article <855230993.29048@dejanews.com>, likesj@heidelberg-emh2.army.mil 
says...
>
>I would like to begin compiling a small (10 - 15) library of woodworking
>books.  I would appreciate any suggestions from the group.  TIA
>
>John K. Likes

There are a lot of different reasons for working wood. Some people want to 
perfect a skill, others want to be able to make something to be proud of, 
still others like to collect the tools and know how to use them. 

One book I frequently refer to is "Building Fine Furniture" by G. William 
Scherer. Scherer is a former shop teacher who writes under the assumption 
that his reader doesn't have the specialized tools or skills of a furniture 
factory, but wants to produce something attractive and functional. "Fine 
furniture" is a misnomer to any purist because he gives alternatives to 
age-old joinery. Modern glues and hardware make it possible to do things 
than a woodworking layman of other centuries couldn't do and Scherer 
outlines those possibilities very well. 

The book isn't for everyone. He shows how to make nice utilitarian 
furnishings and, yes, he cuts corners. The results, however, are impressive. 
Even a weekend woodworker with a little experience cutting straight lines 
and without the resources Russ Morash gives Norm can produce something his 
wife would allow in the living room. The fact that those pieces are unlikely 
to end up a collector's item in a century doesn't bother me much.

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:32 EST 1997
Article: 183242 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawer sliding
Date: 8 Feb 1997 23:20:47 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
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In article <32FB820F.134F@estec.esa.nl>, pgroeppe@estec.esa.nl says...
>
>> The chest is red oak but the drawers and where
>> they will slide is poplar

>I've done at least 10 chests like this and they glide smoothly, after
>an initial application of a little spray of silikone. the silicone 
>obviously penetrates into the (hard)wood and ensures low friction
>for several years.

>cheers, Peter

I'll agree with that but warn that the silicone should be sprayed on after 
all the finishing is applied. Silicone can cause a bad case of fish-eye in a 
finish.

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:33 EST 1997
Article: 183243 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron Ionta <aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wooden houses
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:19:17 -0600
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Dariusz M.Stasiak wrote:
> 
> I am looking for conception, photos, projects of any wooden houses.
> If you know any www-address with that things - please e-mail me directly.
> 
> Thanks - Darek
> 
> <damistas@faunus.ar.lublin.pl>
Do you mean wooden Horses
-- 
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////////////
                      @
////////////////////// \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Aaron R. Ionta

InterNet Solutions Inc.
9625 West 76th St. Suite #150
Eden Prairie, Minnesota 55344

aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com

Support Phone 888-688-8324 - Toll Free
              612-903-2020
Direct Line   612-903-2032


From craig1708@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:34 EST 1997
Article: 183244 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood finish care question
Date: 10 Feb 1997 18:42:32 GMT
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This is one of the areas that is full of myth and "snake oil" 
To begin with, wood can not be "fed", it is not a cat. Wood drys out due
to the loss of moisture. As relative humidity levels drop, the moisture
content within the wood attempts to equalize  itself with the surrounding
enviroment, causing the wood to shrink and "dry out".  No amount of lemon
oil (which is baby oil with a scent) or any other oil will reverse this or
stop it. And you are correct in thinking that there is a layer of finish
on the wood stopping any oil from even getting to the wood. Some old
surfaces are crazed and cracked and will allow the oil to get to the wood
only to discolor the wood in the pattern of the cracked surface.
Like wise, finishes can not be "fed". It is chemically impossible. Take
shellac for instance. It is an alcohol based resin, a petroleum based
product has not affect.
Even an oil based varnish can not be helped in this way. Once the varnish
has polymerized, it is a different material than when you started and can
not be reveresed or fed with more oil.
What often see after using oil on an object is what we call the illusion
of gloss. That is, the liquid layer allows us to see the surface more
clearly, thus making it look better, by saturating the surface.
Oils will also act as a dirt and dust trap. The thin layer that is left on
the finish attracts dust and holds on to it. Oils like linseed, tung,&
walnut are drying oils. Once they dry, all of the polllutants are trapped
in the oil film creating a difficult mess to remove.
All in all, it is not advisable to use oil on wood and its protective
finishes. 
Alcohol based finishes can be helped and made visually more appealing with
out removal bt adding the appropriate SOLVENT and reforming the film.
What we do recommend is a coat of paste wax on the finish, it can easliy
be removed as opposed to oil.


**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From paul@Teknetix.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:35 EST 1997
Article: 183245 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!Norway.EU.net!nntp.uio.no!newsfeeds.sol.net!homer.alpha.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Celley <paul@Teknetix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: powermatic dc
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:05:04 -0600
Organization: Technetix Incorporated
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32FF7160.15FB7483@Teknetix.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183245

I have a chance to pick up a powermatic dc with
3 ports, two dust bags.(can't remember the model#)

It runs on 240 and draws 16amps, is this the one you
purchased??? 

The guy wants to sell it for $500 and I think it would
be great, but I'm concerned about the noise...and the fact that
I would have to rewire the Unisaw circuit to a heavier gauge and
get a new circiut breaker for the dc and saw to run on one.  I am
running out of space in my service entrance.

Maybe someone can give me an idea how to set both machines up without
hogging all my circuit breakers...

Regards,

Paul Celley
-- 
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while. 
--


From mpeele@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:36:36 EST 1997
Article: 183246 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:27:03 -0500
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Les Bartel wrote:
> 
> I've been toying with the idea of putting a larger pully on the shaft
> driven by the motor to slow my saw (14" Jet) for cutting metal.  The
> apparent problem is that I can only slow it to about 1000 feet per
> minute.  The largest pully that will work on top appears to be about 16"
> diameter.  This still seems too fast for cutting steel.  Has anyone else
> done this?  What other precautions should I take?  I will get a separate
> metal cutting blade.
> 
>  - les


You don't have to use a slower speed to cut metal. I use wood speeds(3000 F/min)
and old blades. It's called friction cutting, well more like grinding. I have cut
1/8" O1 tool steel and 1/4" mild steel on my 14" Delta bandsaw. Blades not good
for anything else after a friction cutting session so I always use dull baldes.



Michael Peele


From aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:36 EST 1997
Article: 183247 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron Ionta <aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesemeyer Fence?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:13:14 -0600
Organization: IntraNet Solutions Inc.
Lines: 29
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Ken D. wrote:
> 
> I just purchased a Jet Xacta Fence (52" homeshop) for my Craftsman 10"
> contractor's saw (about 5 years old). It will not bolt directly to my
> saw without drilling either the fence rail, or the saw table itself.
> Does anyone know if the Biesemeyer 50" homeshop fence will bolt to my
> saw without drilling new holes?  Any comments on either fence?
> Thanks...
I have the 3.5Hp craftmans contractor saw that cam with the biesmeyer
fence. I can chack the model (saw) or measure the mounting holes if
you want so that you can be sure if it will fit!

Aaron   %^)
-- 
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////////////
                      @
////////////////////// \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Aaron R. Ionta

InterNet Solutions Inc.
9625 West 76th St. Suite #150
Eden Prairie, Minnesota 55344

aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com

Support Phone 888-688-8324 - Toll Free
              612-903-2020
Direct Line   612-903-2032


From btallis@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:37 EST 1997
Article: 183248 of rec.woodworking
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From: btallis@cv.hp.com (Brad R Tallis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Slipage!
Date: 10 Feb 1997 19:14:35 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
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Brad R Tallis (btallis@cv.hp.com) wrote:

: Hello All-

: I ran into a problem this weekend that really has me bothered.
: I was routing cherry planks and only making cuts about 1/8"
: deep.  As I would rout, the depth adjust would slip and allow 
: the bit to sink into the wood at least 1/16".  And the depth
: adjust lock was on!  To me, this seems dangerous.  Plus it
: almost ruined an expensive piece of cherry (it was the ONE
: piece I had picked out for the headboard that was _absolutely_
: beautiful!)

: I've had the router for over a year with probably about 30-40
: hours of use.  I dought it is still under warranty.  What
: should I do?  Take it apart and hope to see whats wrong?

: Also, could you recommend a good router for the "general"
: hobbist?

: Thanks for your help-
: Brad

I forgot to include some info.

It's a Ryobi (not sure of the HP, but it's got a MOTOR!),
I was using a 3/4" steel bit, and my feedrate was slow.
(It took me 4 hours to make 17 .25" deep grooves in the
cherry...)

Brad

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--									   --
--  Brad Tallis					btallis@hpcvsgen.cv.hp.com --
--  Information Technology Specialist		         	           --
--  Hewlett-Packard, Inkjet Business Unit	         		   --
--  Corvallis, OR							   --
--									   --
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From feliixx@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:38 EST 1997
Article: 183249 of rec.woodworking
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From: feliixx@aol.com (Feliixx)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sand Paper vs. Steel Wool
Date: 10 Feb 1997 19:34:39 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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i couldn't resist the question
use 'flour' grade glasspaper (well thats what we call it here in england)
on the flat areas. use a block and a light touch.  wire wool in mouldings
or curvy bits. light touch again


From lehmann@icenter.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:39 EST 1997
Article: 183250 of rec.woodworking
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From: Shane <lehmann@icenter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wine racks
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:47:51 -0800
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I'm hoping someone can help me here.  I'm looking for some 
designs/patterns to wine racks.  Does anyone know of any that can be 
found on the net.
	
	Any help would be appreciated.

	Shane

-- 

	"Now go away before I taunt you a second time"
		-french taunter from Monty Python's
		 Holy Grail


From kenneth.mcwilliam@cableol.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:36:40 EST 1997
Article: 183251 of rec.woodworking
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From: "kenneth.mcwilliam" <kenneth.mcwilliam@cableol.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Sealing" exposed edges of MDF?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:02:18 +0000
Organization: Cable OnLine Limited
Lines: 32
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patrick anthony wrote:
>....
> I worked as the Technical/R&D manager for a company that produces MDF
> and now I am with a resin manufacturer that produces the glues for the
> product. As far as sealing the edges of the panel, there are two main
> reasons why you would do this,
> 1. To minimise any formaldehyde emissions, although most panels are E1
> (< 10mgs/100gms ) and if not they should be.
> 2. To prevent water uptake from the air and accidental wetting. A sealer
> will slow down the uptake of moisture from the atmosphere and make the
> panel more dimensionally stable.
> 
> As for sealers, probably the best type are water based ones, such as an
> acrylic undercoat, oil based are not effective with MDF as they get
> entrained in the wax that is in the paneland give drying problems etc.
> Polyurethane sealers are also quite effective.
> 
> I hope this helps you, I have only found this newsgroup and am concerned
> a little with the lack of informed knowledge being posted about MDF.
> 
> Regards Pat Anthony
>         <panthony@netsource.co.nz>

Pat, 

So if you were my friend (mentioned in an earlier post) would you risk
panelling a bathroom (in routed MDF with applied mouldings) even if you
had sealed both sides and edges as you suggest?

P.S. yes I am talking about the 'real' MDF!

Regards Ken McWilliam


From straffin@evolveinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:41 EST 1997
Article: 183252 of rec.woodworking
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From: straffin@evolveinc.com (John Straffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Eucalyptus?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:06:50 GMT
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Is Eucalyptus wood any good?  Didn't see it in my local "we have every
wood" lumber store and there's a bunch of logs just lying around where
some trees were cleared by some trian tracks.  They've been lying
there for several months now, so I'd say nobody 'official' is doing
anything with them and was wondering if I should try.  :)

- John C. Straffin
straffin@evolveinc.com


From straffin@evolveinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:42 EST 1997
Article: 183253 of rec.woodworking
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From: straffin@evolveinc.com (John Straffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 1-1/2 HP Router or Laminate Trimmer?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:09:49 GMT
Lines: 7
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I have a (soon to be table mounted) 3-1/4 HP Freud FT2000E and was
wondering what to get for hand-held work.  A laminate trimmer looks
much easier to handle and get in small places (and is cheaper), but
would it leave too much of a 'power gap' between itself and the Freud?

- John C. Straffin
straffin@evolveinc.com


From ejb@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:42 EST 1997
Article: 183254 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpax!hpbs1500.boi.hp.com!rwilson
From: Ed Bennett <ejb@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tool alignment and maintence
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:11:27 -0800
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Roydan,

For relativly low cost (less than $100), you can purchase an excellent 
alignment instrument and learn to keep your own tools in perfect 
adjustment with very little effort and time.  One or two visits from a 
technician would easily cost you more than $100 and you'd have to give 
him exclusive access to the machine during the process (ie, downtime).

Ed Bennett
ejb@primenet.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
http://www.hp.com

PS: What software are you using to post to the NG?  It doesn't seem to be 
doing you any favors (see below).

Roydan Tomlinson wrote:
> 
> I haven't seen this thread but would be interested in comments 
> from the net.n this thread but would be interested in comments 
> 
> When I got into woodworking 25 years ago one of the most time  
> consuming activies was setting up new machines and then  time  
> calibrating them.  was setting up new machines and then  time  
> 
> My dream would be that there would be a service that would come
> into my workshop and perform these functions on a regular basis. I
> could then focus on woodworking and not metal work to make my s. I
> tools correctly. on woodworking and not metal work to make my s. I
> 
> I mean in this day and age where you can get just about any job  I
> done at your house if your time is more valuable than money why  I
> can't I have some of the basic tune ups done on the equipment I  I
> purchase.ave some of the basic tune ups done on the equipment I  I
> 
> I understand that when I but a new tool and want it setup that a I
> dealer will do this but what about ongoing maintence and tune ups
> to keep everything straight and square.ing maintence and tune ups
> 
> Maybe this is a business that just needs to be created. With the
> relative high cost of machinery (compared to a lot of hobbies) I
> would think that this could be a good business for someone es) I
> knowledgable in the type of equipment used in woodworking. es) I
> 
> Thoughts ?le in the type of equipment used in woodworking. es) I
> 
> Roydan Tomlinsonthe type of equipment used in woodworking. es) I


From crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete Sat Feb 15 11:36:43 EST 1997
Article: 183255 of rec.woodworking
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From: crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete (Ron Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 20:12:54 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
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John Hofstad-Parkhill (jhparkhill@sihope.com) wrote:

: Also, in spite of what Tool Crib and my local B&D service center says,
: there's no edge guide available from DeWalt that will work on the 621.
: Looking at Feb/Mar for shipment.

I just purchased a DeWalt microadjust guide for my 621 from Jerry's in
Eugene, OR.  The one I purchased was labeled for use with the 614 or
615.  I had first talked to DeWalt customer support and they said a
guide for the 615 would work with the 621, and they quoted a Mar/Apr
delivery for 621 specific accessories.  Not wanting to wait, I talked to
the people at Jerry's and they offered to take it back if it didn't work
with my 621.  It works fine with the 621.

--
Ron
remove the 'aaz' and
the '.delete' to email me


From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:44 EST 1997
Article: 183256 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:20:07 GMT
Organization: SoVerNet, Inc.
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(Keith) wrote:
>Actually, The variation for average deciduous species as well as composite
>materials that have been dried will show variance of .02mm or .00078" (78- Ten-
>thousandths) from dawn to dusk, day in and day out with varied humidity and
>temperature changes causing the largest effect on movement..  In our production
>facility here, we try to set up machine tolerances to 100% more than the largest
>material variance (or .01mm) for all standard panel saw setups as well as boring
>machine settings.  This insures that we stay within the +/- .02mm variance of
>the material movement / fluctuation itself.  .02mm is about the thickness of a
>sheet of toilet paper, for example.

>If you are making widgets for a living, and your widgets have to match other
>widgets made in different parts of the world, then there has to be some +/-
>Variance standard set.  If you are making window boxes in your garage, that's a
>different story.

I would agree that a production environment like yours requires a
higher concern for these matters than the average rec.www'er I was
addressing. 

The movement figures you quote offer no scale: per inch? per foot? per
meter? per panel? thus they don't enlighten much.


My figures are (partly as interpreted from an article on WOODWEB):

Dried lumber (<6% moisture content) requires relative humidity under
30% to remain stable. Temperature plays a relatively minor roll. A 7%
change in RH will, over time, change MC by about 1%. That time is
about 4 weeks for it to get 2/3 of the way to being equalized,
depending on how it is stacked. The rate of adjustment is not linear
and will be the fastest in the most immediate period of time (I do not
have a curve for this so I will assume linear and simply suggest the
overnight variance to be higher.)

For maple, expect a size change of .35% for each 1% change in MC
across the width of a flatsawn board.

So, say you have a panel of maple 12" wide and RH changes 7% from one
day to the next morning, your panel is now off by more than .001". A
week at the same RH differential and your panel is now off by more
than .007". 

Although RH currently is pretty well fixed at 40% around my shop, it
easily shifts 20-30% day to day in the warmer months inside and out.
So much for worrying about extreme accuracy where such accuracy isn't
warranted anyway.

I now apologise to myself for getting so technical.

IMO, the greater problem, than size change issues, is twisting and
warping after cutting due to stress relieving from imperfect drying or
MC changes after the fact. These problems are nearly non-existent in
composite materials.

Mike Rainville



From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:45 EST 1997
Article: 183257 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:19:07 GMT
Organization: SoVerNet, Inc.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <5dnvs6$6m1@thrush.sover.net>
References: <01bc1308$47a6a160$88fee5ce@sailorb> <01bc1376$e4819ee0$59348acd@w4vbh.preferred.com> <32fa78be.2560330@news.ftn.net>
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verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender) wrote:

>... Why don't
>they make these guards so you can just temporarily disable them and
>then bring them back into position to be used again....

Exactly! The standard PM66 guard is a great piece of engineering, too
bad they didn't put the effort into something that is useable.

Mike Rainville  






From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:46 EST 1997
Article: 183258 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin A. Escarcega <opencon@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: 10 Feb 1997 13:27:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet (602)416-7000
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183258

Really depends on how much you are going to work it. I have the Ryobi and
love it. Drawback, table does not tilt. You'd have to build a platform for
angle operation.

Marty

damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:
: Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
: oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
: Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?

: Thnx
: Damian


--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Martin A. Escarcega                       __  __     ____  ___       ___ ____
opencon@primenet.com                     /__)/__) / / / / /_  /\  / /_    /
                                        /   / \  / / / / /__ /  \/ /___  /
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From cmetruck@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:47 EST 1997
Article: 183259 of rec.woodworking
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From: cmetruck@aol.com (CMETRUCK)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: plastic to wood
Date: 10 Feb 1997 20:32:55 GMT
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question;
               what is the best way to adhere plastic to wood, need help
                                           
                                          thanx



                                      


From aht@mail.bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:48 EST 1997
Article: 183260 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:29:49 GMT
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In article <32FEB221.6CD1@cris.com>, Kevin <lantect@cris.com> wrote:
>>...looking to get some clamps for:
>>- glueing up panels
>>- assembling
    
>>Any thoughts on how many clamps to get -- and how long they should be? 
>>I plan to get the longest ones possible.  I can always make them
>>smaller.  Sometimes it may be inconvenient, but versatility in my small
>>shop is key.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Kevin


Kevin,

In my opinion you can't beat the old orange Jorgensen 3/4" pipe
clamps. They're relatively cheap, you can buy different lengths of
pipe and alternate them as needed for different lengths. I buy a new
set every once in a while (you always need more) they make easy gifts
for Christmas. The black pipe stain problem you may have read about is
really easily solved by any number of methods, (I rarely have any
problems)

The Besseys are very nice and very expensive.

The EZ Holds that you mentioned (the part I cut out) are nice to have
around but not good for panel clamping.

Those new black spring clamps with the swivel tips are better than the
others (unrelated to panel clamping but what the hey)

My two cents,

Al


From tgillesp@mail.tds.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:49 EST 1997
Article: 183261 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@mail.tds.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:30:56 -0800
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LEE WARD wrote:
> 
> Joanne Liebler has her own show on cable; I saw it once and IMHO she
> comes across nice but too complacent and not at all like her Independent
> DIY style as on those Shows with Dean,,Also FWIW Dean has had by my
> count 4 different ladies help him on those shows and the most recent one
> is no reject-and i believe they are married...

Let's see. Bu my count they were (in tentative chronological order):

	Peggy Knapp
	Suzanne Eglie(sp)
	Joanne Liebler
	Robin Hartle

> BTW that new show Joanne
> duz is a show where she shows off new architecture in homes and new
> houseplans ,ideas,etc..In my area [Chicago} the station is 53 and she
> comes on around 10pm possibly,,The station is one that has nothin on it
> but Home stuff and Howto stuff if that helps.......

She is on HGTV, I can't seem to recall the name of the show.

Tim


From lumpkins@compumedia.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:50 EST 1997
Article: 183262 of rec.woodworking
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From: lumpkins@compumedia.com (Earl Lumpkins, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 18:14:31 GMT
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On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:10:06 +0100, Viliam Holuby <vilo@NOVITECH.SK>
wrote:

>I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is lot =
>of wooden garbage and sawdust.
>Does anybody have any idea how to use it ?
>Thank you for your ideas.
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/mn/mvtrade/index.html
>
>
>Viliam

The BEST idea I have ever seen for using sawdust is something I got
off of "The Furniture Guys".  They use the sawdust with chemical
strippers.  What an idea!  No more wasted rags.  I save all of the
sawdust from my Dewalt Bisquit joiner.  I would suggest using
something between sawdust and shavings.  Just put the stripper on then
scrub it off with hand-fulls of the sawdust.  It absorbs and then you
just throw it away after you are done.
Good Luck,
Earl



From **douten**@ibm.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:50 EST 1997
Article: 183263 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <*douten*@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler??
Date: 10 Feb 1997 20:51:18 GMT
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I once thought Dean was married to Joanne.  The Home Time web site had
mentioned this as a kind of standing joke.  I don't think he is married to
Robin.  BTW the female half has been in order   Peggy Knapp, Joanne
Liebler, Suzanne Eggley and Robin Hartl(apologies for incorrect spelling).
I believe they may have had to surgically remove tools from Suzannes' death
grip :-)
                                              Dave
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove asterisks from address**

LEE WARD <lee.ward@corpsoft.com> wrote in article
<8D1C205.02330125B4.uuout@corpsoft.com>...
> Joanne Liebler has her own show on cable; I saw it once and IMHO she
> comes across nice but too complacent and not at all like her Independent
> DIY style as on those Shows with Dean,,Also FWIW Dean has had by my
> count 4 different ladies help him on those shows and the most recent one
> is no reject-and i believe they are married...BTW that new show Joanne
> duz is a show where she shows off new architecture in homes and new
> houseplans ,ideas,etc..In my area [Chicago} the station is 53 and she
> comes on around 10pm possibly,,The station is one that has nothin on it
> but Home stuff and Howto stuff if that helps.......
>                                        Lee Ward
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
>          20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 


From **douten**@ibm.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:51 EST 1997
Article: 183264 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <*douten*@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: 10 Feb 1997 20:55:12 GMT
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I'm sure they're kidding.  Not sure if you are.  I don't think HGTV is a
2-bit operation.
                                  Dave
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove asterisks from address**

haubert@mbi.org wrote in article <haubert.108.000BB4A1@mbi.org>...
> In article <5ddoeh$lqo@news2.tds.net> Tim Gillespie
<tgillesp@*mail.tds.net> writes:
> >From: Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@*mail.tds.net>
> >Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
> >Date: Thu, 06 Feb 1997 18:11:19 -0800
> 
> >Dave wrote:
> >> 
> >> Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >> HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >> over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> 
> >Yeah! I noticed. He must have changed his hair or something too, he
> >looks younger. Maybe its all that weight he has lost.
> 
> 
> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit
cable 
> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES
have 
> less fancy tools.
> 
> Rich
> 
> 
> 


From doug@yamm.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:36:52 EST 1997
Article: 183265 of rec.woodworking
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From: Douglas Fisher <doug@yamm.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UK Woodworking Shows
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:49:51 +0000
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Next month (March) the Scottish Woodworking Show takes place and what
I'd like to know is this:- will I be able to pick up a Sheppach HMS260
planer/thicknesser at a 'show special' discount price ?

Also who is the best, (good timber, good variety, good stock levels,
reasonable prices), supplier of hardwood in the UK (as North as
possible) for furniture making ?
-- 
Douglas Fisher


From salgeb@hotmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:53 EST 1997
Article: 183266 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:21:14 -0600
From: salgeb@hotmail.com
Subject: Plywood end-grain
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855609357.24741@dejanews.com>
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To: salgeb@hotmail.com
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How do you prep the end-grain of plywood
so you can't see the it after painting?

Besides sanding what filler should I use?

Thanks for your help.

Sal

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ncovey@cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:54 EST 1997
Article: 183267 of rec.woodworking
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From: Norm Covey <ncovey@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Leigh D3 vs D4
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:21:57 -0600
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I have just received an order from Trend-Lines on a Leigh 24" Dovetail
Jig. I had expected a D4 but received a D3. What is the difference in
the D3 and D4. I know the D4 is about the same money (339.00), should I
send it back. 

BTW, when I opened the box, part rained out every where. Someone else
had the got it before I got it and just dumped everything back in. I'm
nor real happy with Trend-Lines right now.

Anyway, if you can help with the D3 vs D4 question I would appreciate
it.
-- 
Norm Covey
ncovey@cris.com
Houston, TX


From doug@yamm.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:36:55 EST 1997
Article: 183268 of rec.woodworking
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From: Douglas Fisher <doug@yamm.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Deal?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:12:14 +0000
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In article <32f93e21.489985@news.capital.net>, gaeddert@capital.net
writes
>You guessed pretty close to the meaning of "deal."  Yellow deal refers
>to Scots Pine (aka Scots Fir) and White deal refers to spruce.  These
>woods were usually used for cheap or rustic furniture.  It's an
>archaic term.
Yes, correct, and according to the Collins English Dictionary White Deal
is Norway Spruce and the word deal comes from Middle Low German 'dele'
meaning plank.
It might be archaic to you but that's what we called it at school :)

-- 
Douglas Fisher


From salgarcia@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:57 EST 1997
Article: 183269 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sal Garcia <salgarcia@prodigy.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: hardwood/plywood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:34:42 -0800
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Anyone know where one can purchase mahogany,cherry and/or maple plywood
in the Southern California Area? What about solid mahogany, cherry,
and/or maple???
Thanks in advnace... email ok, too (salgarcia@prodigy.com)

Sal Garcia
PicoRivera,Ca
salgarcia@prodigy.com


From DDEdge@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:58 EST 1997
Article: 183270 of rec.woodworking
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From: Drew Diaz <DDEdge@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: work benches to buy
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:46:54 -0500
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Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte to this medium.

basically, I'll never have the time to build the workbench I want & am 
in the market for a ready made unit.

Any suggestions???

drew diaz


From Jeffrey.Silverman@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:36:58 EST 1997
Article: 183271 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeffrey Silverman <Jeffrey.Silverman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: pau ferro oily?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:53:36 -0800
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Anyone have significant experience working with pau ferro? I glued up 
some thin panels then laminated them to maple using Titebond II and many 
of the seams and laminations came appart. Is the wood particularly oily 
so that I should have use a polyurethane or epoxy glue?

Thanks 
Jeff


From xqqme3@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:36:59 EST 1997
Article: 183272 of rec.woodworking
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From: xqqme3@aol.com (Xqqme3)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shaker Plans
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:07:58 GMT
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Looking for plans for buildinf church/pulpit furniture in the Shaker
style.  Can anyone give me an idea where to look?  Thanks


From fbmarq@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:00 EST 1997
Article: 183273 of rec.woodworking
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From: fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stanley # 50 Beading or Combination Plane
Date: 10 Feb 1997 21:52:42 GMT
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Message-ID: <5do5ba$h1c@sjx-ixn8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32FCF533.11F1@erols.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183273

In <32FCF533.11F1@erols.com> Alden Miller <aldenm@erols.com> writes: 
>
>My father recently gave me a Stanley #50 Beading or Combination Plane.

>It has a patent date on the body of the plane 8-11-03 and "B" Casting
>mark on frame and fence. The fence has a patent date of SEPT 11 83 on
>it.  It seems to be complete except for blades.
>
>I have three questions.  The different patent dates make me wonder is
>this two planes that have been put together?  Are cutters available,
if
>so where?  About how much is it worth?
>
>Please reply both to the newsgroup and me, I don't want to miss the
>posting!
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>-- 
>Alden Miller
>
>aldenm@erols.com

Alden,

I may be able to help you with your first question but not the rest.

My 1937 copy of Stanley Tools Catalogue No. 34 lists a No. 50 Light
Conbination Plane with a left fence.  The replacement parts section
shows the fence being used on seven different Stanley planes.  That
being the case, I'm not surprised that it is patented separately.

The catalogue shows that the plane came with seventeen different
cutters:  9 Plow and Dado Cutters, 7 Beading Cutters, and 1 Tonguing
Cutter.  BTW, in 1937, the plane plus cutters cost $9.45.

Gerry Marquis
Elyria, Ohio



From daddieco@groove.zko.dec.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:01 EST 1997
Article: 183274 of rec.woodworking
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From: daddieco@groove.zko.dec.com (Coffee-The-Cat-WorX)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: powermatic dc
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:06:01 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Palo Alto, CA, USA
Lines: 5
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Sounds like it might be the Model 75 - 1900 CFM - 240v/20A - 3-4"
ports - a real "sucker!"  New they go for $649.0 - Tool Crib.  Great
DC - if it's in really fine shape - you're getting it for a fair price
- not a great price as I've seen them for $400 slightly used.  They
are big - stand 90" tall - but they really suck!


From almcleo@sloc.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:02 EST 1997
Article: 183275 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Alexander D. McLeod" <almcleo@sloc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hardwood/plywood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:59:26 -0800
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183275

Sal:
You might call Ganahl Lumber (it is in either Garden Grove or 
Westminster) just off the Garden Grove Freeway.  I was there this 
morning and they did have at least some of what you want.  Perhaps a 
call first would be wise.  Sorry but I don't have the telephone number.
Sandy



From jdr@vir.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:03 EST 1997
Article: 183276 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jean Des Rosiers" <jdr@vir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 220 help
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:08:28 GMT
Organization: Hookup Montreal, Internet Access Montreal.
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 follows:   -   - the electrician told me that this was code,but my 
> 
>              0
That's a 15A 220v outlet.

 
>    \    /
>      |
 

That is probably a 30 or 40A plug.  Unless the wiring is sized accordingly,
you cannot just change the receptacle to accomodate the welder.

The outlets are wired with 2 "hots" or phases and one bare ground wire. 
You can NOT use any 110 volt equipment on these circuits.  To use 110v
equipment, there MUST be 2 hots or phase wires, one neutral wire and one
ground wire.

Hope this helps

Jean



From mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu Sat Feb 15 11:37:04 EST 1997
Article: 183277 of rec.woodworking
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From: mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 19:46:22 GMT
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I saw what I think this person is talking about at Sears my last trip there.
It clearly stands out from their other saws on the floor as potentially
a real machine.  I played around with the controls and the fence and whatnot
and it seems tight and sturdy.  Did not take time to check any alignments
or was there any opportunity to use the saw.

The thing was...when it was all said and done with the "nicer" fence installed
it was about $750.  I do not have the resources or space to get a table
saw yet but in all the looking (and dreaming?) I've done it seems you can get
as good or better saw from a competitor with a much better reputation for
this or less.

On the upside maybe this is a hint of good things to come.  I like the Sears
company and their store but I too realize their power tools often lack too
much.  This looks like a really good saw and if it were say $150 less it
might be a winner.

-- 
Mike Buening 
Dept. of Chemistry and Biochemistry
University of Notre Dame
mbuening@argon.helios.nd.edu        http://www.nd.edu/~mbuening


From csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null Sat Feb 15 11:37:05 EST 1997
Article: 183278 of rec.woodworking
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From: jim mcnamara <csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwood Grading?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 14:58:25 -0700
Organization: csi
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There is a FAQ on this I believe.  Since most of us can't sit
down & write 15 pages of material from memory, you'd be well
served to look in:
  
http://www.dejanews.com

and search only in rec.ww for lumber grading.

You could also read the chapter on grading in Bruce Hoadley's
"Understanding Wood" from Taunton Press.

jim mcnamara

Explodey2 wrote:
> 
> Well, this may be a dumb question, but one that I haven't seen posted in a
> while. Can anyone give us a comprehensive review of the wood grading
> system and what is allowed for each grade? i.e.- FAS, S4S, S2S, Select,
> 1C, etc.


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:06 EST 1997
Article: 183279 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1-1/2 HP Router or Laminate Trimmer?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:16:50 GMT
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In article <33007fda.7313436@nntp.best.com>, straffin@evolveinc.com says...
>
>I have a (soon to be table mounted) 3-1/4 HP Freud FT2000E and was
>wondering what to get for hand-held work.  A laminate trimmer looks
>much easier to handle and get in small places (and is cheaper), but
>would it leave too much of a 'power gap' between itself and the Freud?
>
>- John C. Straffin
>straffin@evolveinc.com

I had the pleasure of using a laminate trimmer this weekend making
a cabinet for a buddy. We used it for flush trimming edging on oak
plywood. Very light, so its easy to hold flat, quiet in comparison
to bigger routers. I am going to get one for this purpose. But for
regular hand work, like dados and rabbets and mortising, I dont
think it would be strong enough. Laminate trimmers are made light
and only have enough power for trimming. Get something around 1 1/2
hp.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From woodwork@injersey.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:07 EST 1997
Article: 183280 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom <woodwork@injersey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Liegh Dovetail Jig
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:26:10 -0500
Organization: Asbury Park Press, Inc.
Lines: 40
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The local Woodworkers Warehouse store here in New Jersey ran a scratch
off add last fall. I got a 20 percent off. The sticker price on the D4
was 324.  I paid about 260.   The price of 349 is IMHO too much.

Second:  To do half-blind, make sure you get the correct bit. I was
doing HB in 1/2 inch sides and had problems with the look-alike bits. I
bought the 128 bit from Leigh and it fixed that.

Just my 2 cents.   Tom.


Steve Toro wrote:
> 
> Charles L. Esterak wrote:
> >
> > I just bought the Leigh D-4 at Woodcraft, Marsh Lane @ Spring Valley Rd. in
> > Addison.  Nice store. Seems to work nicely with my DeWalt 621, although
> > I've yet to try half-blinds.  The jig came with a very well written,
> > comprehensive manual that lists recommended bits and guides.  Woodcraft has
> > a catalog that also lists specific guides and bits that are compatible.
> > The Jig comes with a 1/4" shank carbide tipped dovetail and straight bit.
> > I bought a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer and beefier 8mm shank bits for
> > hardwood use.  A 7/16" or 5/8" guide is required.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > Herb Blair <tejas@APPLINK.NET> wrote in article
> > <199702091236.GAA13692@applink.applink.net>...
> > > I am contemplating buying a Liegh Dovetail Jig.  I would like to hear
> > from folks
> > > out there that own them.
> > > I would like to know how you use it most, thru dovetails or half-blind?
> > > What kind of router are you using?  I have a Porter Cable 690 with plunge
> > base.
> > > What accessories should I consider? (guides, bits, etc.)
> > > Where did you buy it?
> 
> I am also thinking about buying the D4.  Woodworkers Warehouse has
> it on sale for 349.00 this week?  Is this a good price?  Thanks in
> advance.


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:08 EST 1997
Article: 183281 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander????
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:29:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Well it certainly depends on what you want to do. The $99 sounds like a
good deal , but only if the machine does what you want it to do.  I saw
this sander demoed and you could just about stall it with moderately
sanding. If you are doing only light craft work it might work OK. Anything
heavier and you'll wish you had more power and greater sanding area. The
delta floor model (small one) is more of a substantial machine and I've
seen for around $350. Jet just introduced a siimilar one and if averages
hold will sell for less than Delta (maybe $300). If budget is a major
concern, you could go with a cheaper machine like woodtek, grizzly,
reliant etc in the area of  $250. I wouldn't go with less than 3/4 true hp
rating. Hope this helps.


From chuck.steger@lmco.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:09 EST 1997
Article: 183282 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Steger <chuck.steger@lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Sealing" exposed edges of MDF?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:11:58 -0500
Organization: Lockheed Martin Federal Systems in Manassas, VA, USA
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patrick anthony wrote:
> As far as sealing the edges of the panel, there are two main
> reasons why you would do this,
> 1. To minimise any formaldehyde emissions, although most panels are E1
> (< 10mgs/100gms ) and if not they should be.
> 2. To prevent water uptake from the air and accidental wetting. A sealer
> will slow down the uptake of moisture from the atmosphere and make the
> panel more dimensionally stable.
> 
> As for sealers, probably the best type are water based ones, such as an
> acrylic undercoat, oil based are not effective with MDF as they get
> entrained in the wax that is in the paneland give drying problems etc.
> Polyurethane sealers are also quite effective.
                                                                         
Pat,                                                                    
   Your second point about preventing water from getting into the MDF   
has me wondering why a water based polyurathane would work. Wouldn't    
that just cause a problem? If not, how many coats do you recommend to   
seal it? Would a regular old polyurathane work?                         
   Thanks.                                                              
-- 
Chuck Steger
Lockheed Martin Federal Systems
Manassas, VA  20110
chuck.steger@lmco.com


From ha54@rapid.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:37:09 EST 1997
Article: 183283 of rec.woodworking
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From: ha54 <ha54@rapid.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wooden jigsaw makers
Date: 10 Feb 97 22:35:57 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183283

anybody using diamond fretsaw


From mpeele@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:37:10 EST 1997
Article: 183284 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:34:00 -0500
Organization: Nortel
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <32FF8638.5C71@nortel.ca>
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> In article <32FEB221.6CD1@cris.com>, Kevin <lantect@cris.com> wrote:
> >...looking to get some clamps for:
> >- glueing up panels
> >- assembling

> >But neither of these seems to be a solution for glueing up panels.
> >That's where I guess I need a "bar-clamp".  I looked at the Tool Crib
> >catalog and the Jorgensen aluminum bar clamp seeems like a good buy at
> >$29 for a 6-footer.  Any thoughts on an aluminum, square bar clamp.  I
> >could go for the "Pony" fixtures and some black pipe, but the cost is
> >not much less, and having a flat surface seems to be a big advantage for
> >panel glue-up.
> >
> >
> >Any thoughts on how many clamps to get -- and how long they should be?
> >I plan to get the longest ones possible.  I can always make them
> >smaller.  Sometimes it may be inconvenient, but versatility in my small
> >shop is key.


I have 16 3/4" Pony pipe clamps and for panel/case/table glue up. For 
panels I place one every foot. For case work 2 to 3 per side plus a 
couple for diagonals. For each clamp I have 2 pieces of pipe, 31.5" 
and 42" and a coupling. The 31.5" and 42" pipes were cut from 5 21' 
lengths of black iron pipe with 2 extra 42" pipes. These have provided 
any length clamp I have ever needed. 

For post or billet glue ups I have 9 5" and 9 8" C clamps.

A couple of years ago at an auction I bought a box of about 100 2.5" C 
clamps which I use for everything.

I have never felt the need to have any of the fancy bar clamps. If you stock
is jointed correctly and you don't use to much glue or preasure the pipe 
clamps work just fine. Clamps cost about $8-$10 and a 21' length of black
pipe is $18. 

Michael Peele


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:11 EST 1997
Article: 183285 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: Planer
Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News)
Message-ID: <E5EEqs.2py@apollo.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:47:16 GMT
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In article <32FDEAEF.55DD@quebectel.com> cliver@quebectel.com writes:
>I want to get a planer and i am considering the 12 1/2" Craftsman. I
>would appreciate your comments.

I was also just looking for a portable planer.

Last year ShopNotes magazine had a review of small planers, of which
the Craftsman was one.  (I don't recall the exact issue #, but I can
dig it up for you if you like.)  They liked a few things about it,
but on the whole were fairly unimpressed.

Also, the Nov '96 issue of Wood magazine reviewed about 8-10 planers.
The Wood review went into a little more detail on issues like the
amount of sniping each model produced.

Both reviews put the Makita 12" at or near the top, albeit with the
caveat that it's pricier than many of the others.  The Ryobi also got
high marks from ShopNotes.  If I recall rightly, Delta and Jet got
high marks for the quality of finish, but the 22-540 Delta was dinged
by ShopNotes for their in/outfeed table design.

(Based on the reviews, and articles I've gleaned from lurking here,
I opted to spend a little more on the Makita.)
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From alysonsdad@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:12 EST 1997
Article: 183286 of rec.woodworking
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From: alysonsdad@aol.com (ALYSONSDAD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:42:18 GMT
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Didnt Norm do sawhorses a while back.  Seems like the top was a 2x6 with a
tray on the cross braces.




From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:13 EST 1997
Article: 183287 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: New Model Delta 12" Planer
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:41:55 GMT
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Just heard today at my local retailer that the new one is to hit market by
late March


From peterson@205.252.116.10 Sat Feb 15 11:37:14 EST 1997
Article: 183288 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peterson <peterson@205.252.116.10>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drilling plywood
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:50:54 -0500
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RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
> 
> >> Paul Ephron wrote:
> >>
> >> >Does anyone have a sure fire way of drilling thin (1/4 inch) plywood
> >> >so that it does not chip,splinter, and otherwise fall apart. I am
> >> >drilling 15/64 inch holes for 1/4 inch dowels. I am making the drill
> >> >holes in relatively small pieces of wood (about 1x2 inch) and the
> >> >plywood just seems to fall apart on some pieces, while on others it
> >> >stays together pretty well. I do not have a drill press, I only have a
> >> >hand drill. Thanks for any advice.
> >
> 
> Maybe easier said than done, but if you can manage to drill only until
> the point of the bit breaks through, and then complete the hole from
> the other side, splintering will be greatly reduced.
> 
> Rick Marinelli
> rickm@mnsinc.com
The easy way to do it is to drill a small pilot hole through the
plywood, then drill the larger hole from each side.  You can also use
masking tape over the surface to reduce the tendency to splinter.

Steve


From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:15 EST 1997
Article: 183289 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:47:20 GMT
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It took Beisemeyer to get Delta to create a decent fence. Without the
Beisemeyer design we'd all be using a piece of crap fence.  I love my
Beisemeyer and would never replace it with anything!


From csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null Sat Feb 15 11:37:16 EST 1997
Article: 183290 of rec.woodworking
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From: jim mcnamara <csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine table yellowing
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:19:37 -0700
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Clear wood finishes can impart amber hues - you have choices:
A. strip & resand, then use a water-based poly finish,
   which tends to be very cool, not amber at all.
B. If A is a pain, consider reversing the coloration with
   a toner.  Without going into color wheels and all that,
   to un-yellow something you need to apply a purplish
   toner.  Sounds crazy, I know.

   Spray an extremely dilute purple toner over the work.
   Repeat spraying until to have cooled the color back to
   what you wanted.  If you can't beg, borrow or steal spraying
   equipment, then it's stripping time.  Strip really soon,
   before it the finish cures any more than it has already.

Best advice - in the future, test finish a scrap piece of wood 
first to make sure you're gonna get what you want.  Saves a lot
of grief.

More information on this see either Ian Hosker's "Complete 
Woodfinishing" or Bob Flexners "Undetanding Wood Finishing".

jim mcnamara

Jeff Jones wrote:
> 
> We just finished a pine table.  Applied a ZAR Clear Wood finish (poly) and
> turned yellow...much more yellow than we would have liked.
> 
> Any suggestions on toning it down....Hate to have to have to remove the
> clear
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff


From csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null Sat Feb 15 11:37:17 EST 1997
Article: 183291 of rec.woodworking
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From: jim mcnamara <csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polishing Urethane
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:25:13 -0700
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Assuming you have a good film developed--
you can polish with
1. felt pad and 4f pumice + mineral oil. clean.
2. clean felt pad + rottenstone + oil.  clean.
This leaves it pretty shiny, indeed.
Not shiny enough?
3. automotive polish & power buffer with a lamb's wool bonnet. 
   No oil needed.  clean well.

Applying furniture wax won't hurt afterwards.

jim mcnamara

Philip Procter wrote:
> 
> I've got several small (12'x12") sheets of wood finished in a high
> gloss oil based urethane. The finish needs a final polish to eliminate
> the little scratches, dust flecks etc.
> 
> Can I polish urethane with polishing or buffing compound or do I need
> some other technique?
> God first,
> then your neighbors and yourself,
> all else is commentary.


From proybal@pacbell.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:17 EST 1997
Article: 183292 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Quill lock on drill press
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 14:53:27 -0800
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It's easy to install a quill lock on your Delta 16.5" drill press. Just
in front of the quill spring on the left side is a bolt which projects
into a groove on the quill to keep it from rotating as it moves up and
down. 

Remove that bolt, then take a piece of threaded rod and grind a rounded
end on it, similar in shape to the end of the bolt you removed. Cut off
about 3" (or to your preference) of the threaded rod and polish the
rounded end so it won't score the quill. Make or buy a knob and mount it
to the other end of the rod. Then put a washer, a compression spring,
and a second washer on the rod (to keep it from rotating as the drill
press vibrates.)

That's it. Turn it clockwise to lock the quill, counterclockwise to
unlock. I made this modification to my drill press a couple years ago
and have been very pleased with the results.

Phil



From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:18 EST 1997
Article: 183293 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:54:00 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
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  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
difference really is?

  Thanks,

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From woodwork@injersey.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:19 EST 1997
Article: 183294 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom <woodwork@injersey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Starting Mantle Project
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:39:32 -0500
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Alan:

I am aware of 2 very good resources you might consider when researching
a design and build procedure.  #1 is a video from the folks that make
the Kreg Jig. The part # is:  V4.  They detail how to cut/glue/assemble
and install a mantle. (Kreg: 1-800-447-8638).   #2 is The Family
Handyman from Feb. 1993. (1-715-247-5060)

Good luck, Tom.


From woodwork@injersey.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:20 EST 1997
Article: 183295 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom <woodwork@injersey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Great new Woodworking Design Book !!
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:41:51 -0500
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Just picked up a brand new book, copywrite 1997.  This book covers it
all. After glancing thru, it appears to contain specifics on how to
dimension (what looks right, what feels right etc), how to apply the
golden triangle design criteria and lots more.  At this point, it
appears to be an excellent reference book.

THE WOODWORKERS GUIDE TO FURNITURE DESIGN
BY:  Garth Graves
PUBLISHER:  Betterway Books,  Cincinnati, Ohio
ISBN:  1-55870-437-X (alk. paper)

NO, I do not have any affiliation with them.

Tom.


From sdk@ccd.harris.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:21 EST 1997
Article: 183296 of rec.woodworking
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From: sdk@ccd.harris.com (Sean Klingler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for sawhorses?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 18:22:21 -0500
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A recent issue of _Shop Notes_ had an interesting plan for sawhorses
with adjustable height. This gave them a nice extra use as outfeed
tables (with the addition of rollers), drill press extension tables,
and more. They also knocked down into small sections which is
important to me since I have a 1 car garage, and the car has to go in
too (says my wife ;-). I haven't built one yet, but I plan to soon.


Charlie (dbve85@mail.onslowonline.net) wrote:
: The best sawhorses I've had are the ones I have and made now.  I used 4x4
: for the top and then beveled the at about 15 degrees with the legs bolted
: directly to the top (made of 2x4).  Using 1x4 I ran cross pieces from 
: side to side and then a piece of plywood for a self below.

: Sturdy as hell and I've not been able to wear them out in over 8 years.  
: They are a bit heavy though.

: Charlie


--
"The same thing we do every night, Pinky...
     ...Try to take over the world!"


From adamson@enter.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:22 EST 1997
Article: 183297 of rec.woodworking
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From: adamson@enter.net (John Adamson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:21:28 GMT
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Hello!

I have a very large piece of furniture I'm attempting to get through a
very small door, relatively speaking.  I have most of the puzzle
solved, but the final piece involves removing a 3' x 6' panel that was
screwed and glued on three edges.  Is there anything that can break
the glue bond without destroying the wood or the surrounding finish?
(Although most of the area surrounding the joints is not visible) The
wood is "solid core" with an oak finish; the furniture was
manufactured in the late 1970's.  A friend suggested vinegar.  

Here's a crude attempt at an ASCII drawing of the problem, with
arrowheads pointing at the edges that are glued (use a fixed width
font).  

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

John P. Adamson
                         
                         
                    ____________
                   /           /|
                  +-----------+ |
                  |</   ^    >| /  
                  |/          |/

         +------------+
         |    panel   |  
         |            |  
         +------------+




From ehrbar@pop.agri.ch Sat Feb 15 11:37:23 EST 1997
Article: 183298 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sven <ehrbar@pop.agri.ch>
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HUH?


From sbrannon@atlcom.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:23 EST 1997
Article: 183299 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Steven E. Brannon" <sbrannon@atlcom.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: powermatic dc
Date: 10 Feb 1997 23:50:45 GMT
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You might consider adding a secondary panel fed from your main service 
panel.  You will need to add a breaker to your main panel and feed the 
secondary panel from that breaker.  You can then run multiple service 
runs on individual breakers from the secondary panel.  A few cautions:  
the wiring to the new panel must be sized to carry all of the current 
that the new breaker will allow (example: if you feed the new panel with 
a 60 amp breaker, the wire must be rated for 60 amps minimum), you should 
check to see what your local codes permit, and if you are not very 
knowledgeable and confident in doing the work yourself, you should use a 
qualified electrician.  Good luck.



From RFEvans@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:24 EST 1997
Article: 183300 of rec.woodworking
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From: Russ Evans <RFEvans@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Glue or Screws for outdoors project?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:59:46 -0500
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Excuse me if this is FAQ material, but I am new to the NG and new to the
hobby. I have built a couple of small projects for the house (a step
stool and a magazine rack) using hand tools. These projects use mortise
and tenon, and dovetail joints but no screws. I would like to build a
potting/display stand for my Bonsai plants outside. It will be about
five feet high and have three shelves and a roof. I intend to use
pressure treated pine since it will be in the weather. Now... My
question (finally) is; will glued joints hold up out in the weather? Or
will the environmental conditions destroy them? Should I use screws in
this project to keep things together? Any advice will be appreciated.

Russ


From *dgalley@bconnex.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:25 EST 1997
Article: 183301 of rec.woodworking
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From: *dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley)
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My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo Oil'.
This puts a clear hard high gloss finish on soft woods such as pine. I
have seen several of his bowls finished with this and it gives a more
durable finish than PU or just oil. Any help greatly appreciated.
Note: For my real email address remove the * from the one listed in
the header.


From critters@cct.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:26 EST 1997
Article: 183302 of rec.woodworking
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From: critters@cct.infi.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any help on using Shop vac as a Dust collector?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:01:44 +0000
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Robert Gosselin wrote:
> 
> Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:
> >
> > I have a good Shop-Vac. It uses connectors of either 1 1/4 or 2 1/2
> > inches.  It is strong and seems like it would be good for dust
> > collection using the additional bags for dust.  My problem is that all
> > of my tools seem to have connectors of sizes other than the two above.
> > Mt TS for instance uses a 2 1/4 in. outlet.  My question is if anyone
> > has found a source for adapters for Shop-Vacs to machines?
> 
> I am planning on doing the same thing, any help would be appreciated
> robgosse@total.net
If you have a lathe you can make your own. Turn a plug to the size that
fits your particular tool and then bore to except your vac hose.


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:27 EST 1997
Article: 183303 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Solid  Core Oak Veneer Composite Fire Door
Date: 11 Feb 1997 00:26:13 GMT
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I bought a solid core school gymnasium door at a garage sale. It's 4 feet
by 9 feet and I am using the whole thing as a workbench/assembly table for
my shop. It works great. Plenty of room. The core is particle board an I
have my woodworker's vise mounted at one end and have a line of 3/4" holes
for the 3/4" bolt that I use for a dog. The holes go all the way through as
does the bolt. I have not had a problem with the holes. If I were to find
the holes elongating, I would cut some 1/2" hardwood donuts and inset them,
but again, I've experienced no problems in the five years I've used the
table.

BTW. I have the door mounted on a mobile base. I have about a dozen 3/8"
stove bolts to support it that allow me to adjust it to keep it flat. I use
the space under the top for storing sheet materials.

Good luck.
-- 
Frank





From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:28 EST 1997
Article: 183304 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 12inch planer any recomendations !
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:38:42 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
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Steve Rehrauer wrote:
> 
> In article <32FD1D31.7598@earthlink.com> Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com> writes:
> >exception of a Powematic 15" about a year ago. One of my William Alden
> >catalogs has the 22-540 priced at $329.79 with a disclaimer of, "limited
> >to stock on hand".
> 
> I called William Alden two weeks ago to get a quote on the Delta
> planer, and the sales rep told me that they'd dropped Delta.
> Maybe that was a clearing-out sale.
> 
> (Actually, she said Delta dropped them.  "We were selling at
> lower margins than they liked."  Mind, I'm just passing on what
> I was told.  I presume the "no more Delta" part is at least fact.)

I got a different story. They told me that they were having problems
justifiying carrying Jet and Delta which have very similar product
lines. I was told that by buying only one manufacturer's items, the
prices would go down due to increased volume. Since Delta and PC are
owned jointly, I would think PC would drop them too if what you were
told was correct.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:29 EST 1997
Article: 183305 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:36:29 -0500
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Threewhlrd wrote:
> 
> It took Beisemeyer to get Delta to create a decent fence. Without the
> Beisemeyer design we'd all be using a piece of crap fence.  I love my
> Beisemeyer and would never replace it with anything!

That's not the point. I personally don't give a hoot about the history
of the fence, I just want one with the features that appeal to me. That
being said, the Delta comes out the clear winner. It's flatter, deflects
less, can be used as a cut-off fence (with no cursor adjustment), comes
off easier, can be replaced easier, etc.

NO CONTEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From habitat@junction.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:29 EST 1997
Article: 183306 of rec.woodworking
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From: DENNIS and RENEE LAPIERRE <habitat@junction.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 10" Circular Saw
Date: 11 Feb 1997 00:26:55 GMT
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I missed my big chance about 3 years ago to buy a Makita 10" circular saw at a great 
price. I've been sorry ever since and keep looking for a used one. I'm in B.C., 
anybody got one? I have my own woodlot and sawmill and cut cants sometimes for post 
and beam work, and that circular saw would do the notches like a damn for me.
Dennis



From Tom Hamilton                frogman@mnsi.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:30 EST 1997
Article: 183307 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Hamilton                frogman@mnsi.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: 10 Feb 1997 09:03:09 -0800
Organization: None
Lines: 19
Sender: usenet@sdrn.zippo.com
Message-ID: <5dnkcd$86a@lois.zippo.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183307

In article , Jim says...
>
>I can not find rec.crafts.woodturning either.  I am using 
>Compuserve for this newsgroup.  They do not seem to update the 
>newgroup server or I am missing something.
>	 Jim J.
>
==============================

Netscape browser carries rec.crafts.woodturning
Also, here in Canada, I have even better results from ZIPPO.

Try   ---   File/Find/  zippo.com

Hope this works for you. Keep me posted please.....

Be well,

Tom..


From genesis@global.net.au Sat Feb 15 11:37:31 EST 1997
Article: 183308 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Edwards <genesis@global.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eucalyptus?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:47:57 +0800
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John Straffin wrote:
> 
> Is Eucalyptus wood any good?  Didn't see it in my local "we have every
> wood" lumber store and there's a bunch of logs just lying around where
> some trees were cleared by some trian tracks.  They've been lying
> there for several months now, so I'd say nobody 'official' is doing
> anything with them and was wondering if I should try.  :)
> 
> - John C. Straffin
> straffin@evolveinc.com

Eucalyptus is genus name and covers about 2,000 individual species and
sub groups.  
Timbers range from common long grained semi-hard woods through to
exquisite and rare desert hardwoods that a extremely sort after for
musical instruments. 
To know if it is "Any Good", you need to know which wood you are talking
about and then what application you intend to use for. 
Try and find out what sort of Eucalypt is is, then connect to the
Australia Wood site at http://www.woodart.com.au/ and look in there for
detailed info. 
JEFF


From fbmarq@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:32 EST 1997
Article: 183309 of rec.woodworking
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From: fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: 11 Feb 1997 00:56:04 GMT
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In <32FF6877.5FA5@nortel.ca> Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca> writes: 
>
>Les Bartel wrote:
>> 
>> I've been toying.......for cutting metal.........
>  What other precautions should I take? 
>> 
>>  - les
>
>
>You don't have to use a slower speed to cut metal. I use wood
speeds(3000 F/min)
>and old blades. It's called friction cutting, well more like grinding.
I have cut
>1/8" O1 tool steel and 1/4" mild steel on my 14" Delta bandsaw. Blades
not good
>for anything else after a friction cutting session so I always use
dull baldes.
>
>
>
>Michael Peele

If you decide to try friction cutting, make sure your saw is clean. 
Friction cutting is almost like torch cutting in that the high speed
blade heats the metal almost to the melting point and then drags it off
in a pretty good shower of sparks.  The build up of hot "filings" can
easily start a fire.

You might also try posting your original question to
rec.crafts.metalworking.

Gerry Marquis
Elyria, Ohio




From RickM@mnsinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:33 EST 1997
Article: 183310 of rec.woodworking
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From: RickM@mnsinc.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:28:37 GMT
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:47:36 -0500, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
wrote:

>Patrick L. Williams wrote:
>> 
>> Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
>> body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.
>
>It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
>just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
>was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
>It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
>use whatever the sponser dictates !
>

I don't want to get into a Norm debate, but it's a fact that he uses
several brands of routers, and he generally covers the nameplates on
all his tools, even the sponsors.


Rick Marinelli
rickm@mnsinc.com


From cring@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:34 EST 1997
Article: 183311 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eucalyptus?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:36:07 -0700
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John Straffin wrote:
> 
> Is Eucalyptus wood any good?  Didn't see it in my local "we have every
> wood" lumber store and there's a bunch of logs just lying around where
> some trees were cleared by some trian tracks.  They've been lying
> there for several months now, so I'd say nobody 'official' is doing
> anything with them and was wondering if I should try.  :)
> 

Can't answer your question directly, but here is a very nice site
http://www.vicnet.net.au/~woodlink/woodlink.htm  Click around on it and
you'll find a searchable index on just about every Australian wood there
is. Sorry I can't help more.

-- 
C.E."Chuck"Ring
Madera Encantada "Enchanted Wood"
e-mail to:cring@concentric.net
<http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html>




From stenew@axent.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:35 EST 1997
Article: 183312 of rec.woodworking
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From: stenew@axent.com (Steve Newell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 97 15:53:00 GMT
Organization: Axent Corp.
Lines: 8
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In article <32fd7c2d.3439881@news.ftn.net>, verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender) wrote:
>Note so many asking about a router table and as I have plans posted on
>my home page please take a look. 
<SNIP>
>
>Verne

A URL would be appreciated.


From gook@cityvu.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:36 EST 1997
Article: 183313 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kevin Goom" <gook@cityvu.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: King tools
Date: 11 Feb 1997 01:11:12 GMT
Organization: Home
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I have a 10" King table saw, made in 1985, which I bought secondhand about
6 years ago. It was badly out of alignment, probably from new. A hour's
work put it all to rights. It has performed well, but the 3/4 HP motor is a
bit light for some jobs. I don't have anything else to compare it with, but
it seems to me to be a quite adequate machine.

	Kevin

DENNIS and RENEE LAPIERRE <habitat@junction.net> wrote in article
<5dm5g2$s7g@felix.junction.net>...
> One of the local stores carries King tools. These are a line of 10" table
saws, 
> drill presses, metal lathes, milling machines, and the like. Fairly big
catalogue 
> and they apparently are distributed out of Montreal, Canada. Prices are
relatively 
> cheap. I can't find any consumer reports on them though, and you just
can't always 
> trust what the salesman says. Anybody know about this line of tools?
> 
> 


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:38 EST 1997
Article: 183314 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Billiard Table
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:30:26 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <5dohi3$99i@camel2.mindspring.com>
References: <32FD9D6F.76F6@nexus.edu.au>
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Clayton Fopp <cfopp@nexus.edu.au> wrote:

;Does anyonr know where I can get hold of or download plans for a
;billiard table?
;Clayton Fopp
;Australia
;cfopp@nexus.edu.au
Well after many e mails to various members of the group ,i think I
have finally convinced those who think that billiard tables have no
pockets ,otherwise .
 A good starting point is the web site which at the onset states that
billiard tables have six pockets .
http"//www.bca-pool.com/history/hist.htm  just dont let the word pool
fool you. after all isnt pool called pocket billiards ? 
                              



From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:38 EST 1997
Article: 183315 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:20:01 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 19
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References: <32ffb575.2443005@News>
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*dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley) wrote:

;My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo
Oil'.
;This puts a clear hard high gloss finish on soft woods such as pine.
I
;have seen several of his bowls finished with this and it gives a more
;durable finish than PU or just oil. Any help greatly appreciated.
;Note: For my real email address remove the * from the one listed in
;the header.

 Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
[another wood ] of politicians . 
Recently it has appreciated to unknown heights inasmuch that its value
is such that it can be used to not only influence polititcal office
holders but to actually purchase those offices.
        mjh



From sbrews@mastnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:39 EST 1997
Article: 183316 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Brewster <sbrews@mastnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw vs TS for cutting thin strips (was ultra thin kerfs)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:39:18 -0600
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There is an article about this in Fine Woodworking, Jan/Feb.  The
author says he gets 3/32 finished boards from 1/8 resawn boards. He uses
a thicknessing sander to finish each board.

 Is there a consensus that the
> bandsaw is the tool of choice for cutting multiple thin strips of wood for
> laminating projects?  I'd appreciate hearing some discussion on this topic.

> Thanks
> 
> Lynn Willis
> Indianapolis
> willisl@indyvax.iupui.edu


From ibdegen2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:40 EST 1997
Article: 183317 of rec.woodworking
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From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch "Clic" Jig Saw question
Date: 11 Feb 1997 01:49:57 GMT
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Just to add my $.02:  I just bought the barrel grip VS model to replace my
"Crapsman" and Stanley jigsaws.  The Stanley was a great old workhorse. 
However, IMHO, the Bosch is the best jig saw made (I've used others as
well).  Replacing the blade was a snap, the click system working
beautifully.  With Bosch's bimetal blade, the unit cut through 3/4"
veneered mdf like butter.  I never thought using a jigsaw could be such a
pleasure.

Twenty-five years ago, when I was a pup, I longed for a Scintilla jig saw.
 I believe that the Bosch is the Scintilla reincarnated and improved upon.
 (Probably because it is a Scintilla).

Braun Degenshein


From davidy3031@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:41 EST 1997
Article: 183318 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Yoho" <davidy3031@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue or Screws for outdoors project?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 01:56:34 GMT
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I would recommend the use of exterior deck screws to hold this project
together. Pressure treated lumber has a way of twisting and/or bowing as it
dries and can pop apart some glue joints. Outdoor projects lend themselves
to the use of screws in most cases.

David

Russ Evans <RFEvans@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<32FFB672.60C4@ix.netcom.com>...
> Excuse me if this is FAQ material, but I am new to the NG and new to the
> hobby. I have built a couple of small projects for the house (a step
> stool and a magazine rack) using hand tools. These projects use mortise
> and tenon, and dovetail joints but no screws. I would like to build a
> potting/display stand for my Bonsai plants outside. It will be about
> five feet high and have three shelves and a roof. I intend to use
> pressure treated pine since it will be in the weather. Now... My
> question (finally) is; will glued joints hold up out in the weather? Or
> will the environmental conditions destroy them? Should I use screws in
> this project to keep things together? Any advice will be appreciated.
> 
> Russ
> 


From cring@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:42 EST 1997
Article: 183319 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wine racks
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:40:04 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183319

Shane try http://theoak.com/gary/index.html click on furniture and
scroll down to Wine Rack
-- 
C.E."Chuck"Ring
Madera Encantada "Enchanted Wood"
e-mail to:cring@concentric.net
<http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html>




From driedle@infowire.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:43 EST 1997
Article: 183320 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:01:31 -0600
From: driedle@infowire.com
Subject: For sale:  Minicad
Newsgroups: alt.cad,rec.woodworking,misc.forsale.computers.mac-specific.software
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For sale: Minicad 6.0.3 for Macintosh-PowerMacintosh. New. Unopened system
disks, all manuals, literature, sample CD ROM. Also includes seperate
$49.00 Mac Acadamy training video. Transfer of license included.

Can't use. $795.00 list and $549.00 at MacZone, available for only $300.00

Please e-mail David Riedle at: driedle@infowire.com

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From apk2@home.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:46 EST 1997
Article: 183321 of rec.woodworking
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From: apk2@home.com (Alan P. Kefauver)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 02:02:53 GMT
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I have the sears tablesaw you are speaking of, and I am very happy. It
took two days to put it together, and my only complaint is the casters
which were an add on. Get a rolling base! (I'll sell you my casters
for half price). I use a Systematic rip blade and a Forrest WWII for
crosscutting. The fence is very very accurate. After I put the WWII
blade on, I aligned it to the miter slot with the rear trunnion
adjustment, and it has stayed in alignment for 3 months and lots of
wood. Mostly Cherry and 3/4" Cherry ply. I really like the cast iron
tables which I aligned with clamps and then bolted down. Table is as
flat as any straight edge I have, and -flatter- than my delta 14"
bandsaw table.

rgdgps@nwrain.com (DR) wrote:

>
>I've been reading various messages here regarding buying new TS's, but
>I haven't seen anything about what is apparently a new Sears saw.
>
>I'm in the market for a TS and  I'd just about decided on a 
>Jet JWTS 10J F 1.5 HP 10" TS when I happened by Sears and saw their
>(apparently) fairly new belt-drive 10" TS. I've had some variable
>experience with Sears stuff, but this saw looks pretty good. They rate
>it at 3 hp but I understand that they tend to overrate their power
>equipment. Both the Jet and the Delta (34-444) I'd looked at had
>stamped metal extentions. The Sears has cast iron. (I presume this is
>a plus.) Also the fence they have on this saw looks good (not thier
>old screw-down-tight model) - similar to the Jet, which felt very
>good. 
>
>I know most people like Delta, and I have nothing against it, but the
>Delta saws I looked at just didn't give me the right feeling,
>including the contractor's saw and models with the Unifence. I've also
>read messages from people who are very happy with their Jets.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the Sears belt-drive TS? Am I
>being naive by even considering Sears?
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Bob Dykeman
>
>



From lorax@pconline.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:47 EST 1997
Article: 183322 of rec.woodworking
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From: The Lorax <lorax@pconline.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:59:20 -0600
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On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, Alan Murphy wrote:

> You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
> can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
> .95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 

     You are of course completely correct here, but as with most
everything in our society there is a political side to it.  In most areas
building codes will specify a maximum number of outlets you can have wired
to a single 15 or 20 amp breaker.  If you have more than the prescribed
number you can be cited that your wiring is in violation and a potential
fire code.  This is utterly bogus but can lead to hundreds of dollars in
fines and/or a court battle if you don't follow their rules to the letter. 




From clclv@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:47 EST 1997
Article: 183323 of rec.woodworking
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From: clclv@aol.com (CLCLV)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Miniature power tools
Date: 11 Feb 1997 02:24:03 GMT
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I am trying to locate some miniature power tools  to make dollhouse
furniture to scale, any help in where I can find some would be helpful.
Please E-mail me. Thanks in advance, Chuck at ( CLCLV@aol.com )


From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:37:48 EST 1997
Article: 183324 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: Buying a tablesaw - A newbie's perspective and Questions
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> Go with the Delta Contractors saw.  I'm not familiar with the "II"
series,
> but if its anything like my three year old Contractors saw, you'll love
it.
>  Make sure you buy the "Uni-Fence" and table extension.  

I like my Contractors Saw, but to clarify the "II" is a lighter model than
the Contractor Saw. I decided it was worth the small amount extra to go
with the better model. I also agree, bet the better fence, Unifence or
Biesmeyer (I got the Bies.). The have a $50 rebate on those with optional
fence for a while more.



From KnJacobs@mail.concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:49 EST 1997
Article: 183325 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kenneth Jacobs <KnJacobs@mail.concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Leigh D3 vs D4
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:25:11 -0800
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Norm Covey wrote:
> 
> I have just received an order from Trend-Lines on a Leigh 24" Dovetail
> Jig. I had expected a D4 but received a D3. What is the difference in
> the D3 and D4. I know the D4 is about the same money (339.00), should I
> send it back.
> 
> BTW, when I opened the box, part rained out every where. Someone else
> had the got it before I got it and just dumped everything back in. I'm
> nor real happy with Trend-Lines right now.
> 
> Anyway, if you can help with the D3 vs D4 question I would appreciate
> it.
> --
> Norm Covey
> ncovey@cris.com
> Houston, TX
Norm-
 
The differences are: 1) a larger and adjustable bracket to hold the
board square to the jig, 2) easier to read plastic scales on the part
that the fingers are attached to, 3) longer arms on the brackets that
hold the finger jig (these also come with the MMT accessory), and 4) a
new improved manual.  These are the differences that I was able to
identify when I bought my D4.
 
Personally, I'd send it back.  Trendlines does have the best price
unless you can get to the Woodworking Show (don't see one scheduled for
Texas).  Talk to Trendlines customer service, they should be selling the
current model by now.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Ken


From ferrisbb@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:50 EST 1997
Article: 183326 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Ferris <ferrisbb@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:26:37 -0500
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Jeff Gorman wrote:
> 
> Joe Watkins wrote:
> 
> ~  I am just curious... when I submit a request for info etc. Do you
> ~  expect or require or appreciate a reply to your offered advice/help?
> ~
> ~  I have asked a few newbie questions and I have gotten some good info
> ~  in return.  I am not sure wether or not to reply with thanks or send
> ~  an email to the person or persons that have generously offered their
> ~  two cents.  How do you all feel?
> 
> I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
> take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
> and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
> reply.
> 
> Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
> 
> Jeff
> --
> Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
> jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


I agree!! If all the replies were e-mailed, how am I gonna learn
anything!!


From ctwest@usgs.gov Sat Feb 15 11:37:51 EST 1997
Article: 183327 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: ctwest@usgs.gov (Chris West)
Subject: Re: Ryobi vs Skil?
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I choose the skil. Am happy with it. Also, I've had good experiences
with the skil repair shop (only had to deal with then twice, and not with
the router). Can't think of any reason not to buy the Ryobi, though.

-- 
Chris West                  
ctwest@ws3dgadrv.er.usgs.gov


From apk2@home.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:52 EST 1997
Article: 183328 of rec.woodworking
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From: apk2@home.com (Alan P. Kefauver)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 02:08:11 GMT
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I buy (bought) all my Dewalt tools from the B&D serviice center. Each
has a sticker that says factory reconditioned. Saved a lot and have
had no trouble.
3 sanders, an electric hand planer, 3 drills, 2 routers, 2 circular
saws, and a jig saw.


deaneg@aol.com (DeanEG) wrote:

>I have purchased both dewalt 12V drill and saw and each arrived without
>narry a scratch or a cosmetic element suggesting previous exposure to the
>air much less any use. They have been perfect. I would recommend them any
>time. The warranty is the same and they are absolutely indistinguishable
>from brand new.



From wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us Sat Feb 15 11:37:52 EST 1997
Article: 183329 of rec.woodworking
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From: "William M. Youngman" <wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notty Pine problem
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:08:21 -0800
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Steven Cavanaugh wrote:
> 
> I hope some one can help me with the following finishing problem.
> 
> Customer has a set of windows made of notty pine, they have painted them with latex
> white paint, of course in less then a year the notts have come right through as dark
> brown spots.
> 
> It is my understanding that if one has fresh wood, using shelac ( less then one year
> old) and coating the nots, this will not happen.
> 
> With out trying to strip the latex paint, is there any way of stopping this problem.
> 
> Would a coat of varathane, followed by a oil based paint put an end to this problem by
> chance.
> 
> Any ideas would be welcome.

Steven,  I can't give you the scientific reason, but based on my
experience, I wouldn't trust putting anything over the latex except
another latex. Latex tends to be softer than oil based paints and I
think the difference in expansion and contraction will eventually cause
the oil based product to peel and flake.  I don't know if there is a
latex product that will stop the bleed-thru.  
	Some years ago I built a pine bookcase that had a few tight knots. 
Following accepted procedure, I painted each knot with a white shellac
based primer before painting with an oil based white enamel.  The knots
still bled thru.  I know this doesn't answer your question, but maybe
will help you to know what not to do.

Bill Youngman


From nexus1@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:53 EST 1997
Article: 183330 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Nick S." <nexus1@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: Shopsmith system in Dallas/FtWorth
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:28:25 -0600
Organization: Studio-N
Lines: 42
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FOR SALE: SHOPSMITH MARK V SYSTEM
WHERE:    GARLAND, TX  (D/FW)

I am selling my Shopsmith Mark V with a lot of the accessories I have
acquired for it. Since I am primarily a turner, many of the accessories are
turning oriented. I am asking $1900 (firm) which is 60% of the value
listed. The following is a breakdown of what's included.


Shopsmith Mark V                        $1890
extra saw blades (2)                    $80
Wobble dado blade                       $35
sliding cross cut table and support     $75
Bisquet Joiner                          $129
Speed Reducer                           $229
Table extension                         $49
Drill Chuck                             $35
Shopsmith Tool Holder                   $35
Shopsmith Casters                       $69
Ringmaster                              $240

6" faceplate                            $16
3" faceplates (4)                       $60
Nova Chuck insert                       $19
1/4" Router chuck                       $13
1/2" Router chuck                       $13
Drum sander kit                         $76
Disk sander and extra disks             $15
Live Centers (2)                        $27
Lathe screw center                      $19
L shaped tool reset                     $18
short tool rest                         $13
steady rest                             $40
Arbor chuck                             $18
Flexible shaft                          $35
                                     -----------
                                        $3248


If you are interested, give me a call at:
        972-681-5837    or
        972-519-7257


From HENCH18@AOL.COM Sat Feb 15 11:37:54 EST 1997
Article: 183331 of rec.woodworking
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help. take me off the list.  bill hench. user.


From billt@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM Sat Feb 15 11:37:55 EST 1997
Article: 183332 of rec.woodworking
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From: billt@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM (Billt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: rottenstone
Date: 10 Feb 1997 14:42:26 -0600
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What is the correct way to use rottenstone?

-- 
--------------------------------------------------
If you wish to reply, remove "remove"


From jamesc@ultranet.nh.com Sat Feb 15 11:37:55 EST 1997
Article: 183333 of rec.woodworking
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From: "jamesc" <jamesc@ultranet.nh.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: QUESTION ABOUT BUILDING A DECK
Date: 11 Feb 1997 02:57:28 GMT
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I live in NH.  What type of material (wood, etc.) should I use and why?

Thanks in advance,
Jim


From mtnwinds@pcisys.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:56 EST 1997
Article: 183334 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Mutchler <mtnwinds@pcisys.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For Sale
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:03:26 -0700
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Too busy to use this & it hurts too much to keep looking at it!

Delta H.D. Shaper & 3 roller stock feeder..........$1600

Sorry, no tooling.


From wilythek@netnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:57 EST 1997
Article: 183335 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Kapinski <wilythek@netnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Vacuum problems.. Physics lesson???
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:09:08 -0500
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I am new to woodworking and am having some problems with saw dust
removal. I have a mitre saw and a belt sander with dust ports and bags. 
If I use the bags I collect about 30% of the sawdust generated. Thinking
if I hooked up my shopvac to the ports I'd get most of the dust...
Wrong!!! It seems that when I power up the shopvac I get less than if I
use just the bags. 

I'm confused...

Lately I've hooked up the vac but only turn it on occasionaly, letting
the sawdust blow into the hose for a while before I turn on the vac.

Any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

Bill K.


From wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us Sat Feb 15 11:37:58 EST 1997
Article: 183336 of rec.woodworking
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From: "William M. Youngman" <wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: B&D Workmate Bench
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:43:25 -0800
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
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Cadisfli wrote:
> 
> I am considering buying the B&D (Workmate?)workbench for setting up shop
> out on my deck in good weather or when my 10' X 12' shop becomes too
> cramped (most of the time).  A sales rep at a store demo was using one,
> but told me that the Makita version was much sturdier and better overall.
> I have had no luck finding one of these benches, short of ordering one. Is
> anyone familiar with this bench, or how it might compare with the B&D
> workbench?

Cadisfli,  I can't speak for the Makita.  However, I have been using a
B&D workmate for several years.  As long as you don't expect too much of
it, it will prove quit useful and serviceable.  It's not real heavy or
rigid, but as long as your using it for realitively light work, it's a
good piece of equipment.

Bill Youngman


From tclapp@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:37:59 EST 1997
Article: 183337 of rec.woodworking
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From: "T. W. Clapp" <tclapp@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: PSA Burl Veneers
Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:19:31 GMT
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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Q:  Anyone have experience with the PSA burls from Constantines?  Are they
better/easier than ordinary veneer burl?  Suggested sources other than
Constantines?

I am building a fancy walnut desk...carved legs, turned spindles, leather
to inlay, the works!.  Thinking of using walnut burl for the drawer fronts.
 (No, I don't have a vacuum press, nor can I justify purchase.) 



From dow@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:00 EST 1997
Article: 183338 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Buying a tablesaw - A newbie's perspective and Questions
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:03:40 -0600
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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Message-ID: <32FFE18C.39@flash.net>
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Andrew Patterson wrote:
> 
> > Go with the Delta Contractors saw.  I'm not familiar with the "II"
> series,
> > but if its anything like my three year old Contractors saw, you'll love
> it.
> >  Make sure you buy the "Uni-Fence" and table extension.
> 
> I like my Contractors Saw, but to clarify the "II" is a lighter model than
> the Contractor Saw. I decided it was worth the small amount extra to go
> with the better model. I also agree, bet the better fence, Unifence or
> Biesmeyer (I got the Bies.). The have a $50 rebate on those with optional
> fence for a while more.


I'm the originator of this thread... I've pretty much decided to go with
the Grizzly 1023... Whether I go with the 1023 or the 1023Z is still in
question, since I'm not sure of that fence... Maybe I'll save my pennies
now and buy a Unifence or Beisemeyer (sp?) later.  I just can't go wrong
for the price, and after talking to some of the owners and the customer
service people on several occasions, I'm convinced that these people are
top notch.

Your replies are appreciated!  Without the response I've received on
this thread I couldn't have made my decision as easily.


-- 
===========================================================================
Michael R. Dow
Independent Excel Representative
RTD, Austin, TX

Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
be charged a $1000 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
to me - consider this an official notice:

"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
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for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm


From tclapp@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:01 EST 1997
Article: 183339 of rec.woodworking
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From: "T. W. Clapp" <tclapp@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources for Table Saws
Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:02:38 GMT
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Paul Johnson <paulzjoh@mtnhome.com> wrote in article
<32FCA0EE.2869@mtnhome.com>...
> ALYSONSDAD wrote:
> > 
> > > > I will soon be buying my first table saw. 
> Remember weight problems, Truckdrivers don't help a lot with 300# boxes.
> 
> 
I, too, bought my Delta TS from Woodworkers Supply.  Best price I could
find and free delivery.  Trucking company brought it direct to our house. 
The driver unloaded it, carted it back to the garage, then stood and
chatted for awhile about his workshop at home.  And to boot, the saw was in
my garage only three days after placing the order.

Good going, WW Supply!


From wallyo@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:02 EST 1997
Article: 183340 of rec.woodworking
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From: wallyo@ix.netcom.com(Edward O'Grady)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch "Clic" Jig Saw question
Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:24:34 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <19970211014901.UAA01128@ladder01.news.aol.com> ibdegen2@aol.com
(IbDegen2) writes: 
>
>Just to add my $.02:  I just bought the barrel grip VS model to
replace my
>"Crapsman" and Stanley jigsaws.  The Stanley was a great old
workhorse. 
>However, IMHO, the Bosch is the best jig saw made (I've used others as
>well).  Replacing the blade was a snap, the click system working
>beautifully.  With Bosch's bimetal blade, the unit cut through 3/4"
>veneered mdf like butter.  I never thought using a jigsaw could be
such a
>pleasure.
>
>Twenty-five years ago, when I was a pup, I longed for a Scintilla jig
saw.
> I believe that the Bosch is the Scintilla reincarnated and improved
upon.
> (Probably because it is a Scintilla).
>
>Braun Degenshein

Hello WW,
    I've never read this newsgroup because I have been obcessed with
other things, but, I cant' wait to catch-up.  I was just going to ask
some of the questions you have answered.  One of my first questions was
going to be, what is a Scintilla?  I have one and I'm wondering if that
was a good thing.  My Father seems to be very impressed with it but, I
didn't know if it was the thing to have.  It seems that it's not so
bad.  
    Maybe someone would be kind enough to tell me what kind of blade to
use for some fancy humidors?  I haven't tried any curves yet.  Thanks,
and I'm looking forward to replying to anyone who has anything to say
about vvoood.  
                        Thanks,

                        Eddie



From spost@NETUSA1.NET Sat Feb 15 11:38:03 EST 1997
Article: 183341 of rec.woodworking
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From: Scott Post <spost@NETUSA1.NET>
Subject: Re: Bedroom furniture plans
In-Reply-To: <32FB37DD.34A3@austin360.com> from "slaton" at Feb 7,
              97 08:10:37 am
Lines: 54
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183341

> slaton wrote:
>
> I would like to build a "Southwestern" style bedroom suite.  Any
> suggestions as to plans (Seperate or a book) will be appreciated.

I think what you're talking about is Mission Style or Arts and Crafts
style.  Have a look at http://www.stickley.com/stickley/ for some
pictures.

If this is what you're talking about, then there are plenty of plans
lying about.  There's a guy on the web selling plans for some nice
looking Mission style stuff at:

  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Dennis_Diane_Slabaugh/dencraft.htm

He has a end table that would make a nice nightstand.

There have also been some nice plans published in magazines in the
past few years.

Wood magazine has plans for a buffet in their February 1995 issue.  You
can get info on ordering back issues from their web page:

        http://woodmagazine.com

The latest American Woodworker shows a really nice Armoire (or entertainment
center).  They don't give detailed plans, but they give nice construction
hints.  They are at:

        http://www.americanwoodworkershow.com/american_woodworker.html

Woodsmith magazine has done several Mission pieces in the past.  If I
remember right they had a sofa table and end tables awhile back and they have
a Mission style headboard and footboard in their latest issue.  They give
plans for a queen and double size.  I drew up a king sized bed based on
their plans and just completed it a couple weeks ago.  I'll get ambitious
in the next couple weeks and put a picture and a dimensioned drawing on
my web page.  You can get to Woodsmith at:

        http://www.augusthome.com/woodsmth.htm

I also saw plans for a Mission sofa table, coffee table, and end table
in one of the mail order catalogs, but I can't remember which one off
the top of my head.

One thing I haven't seen is a Mission style dresser.  If anyone comes
across plans for one I'd sure like to hear about it.  I'm in the process
of doing a full bedroom set in Mission style.  I'll draw up my own plans
if it comes down to it, but I prefer starting with someone elses plans
and modifying them as I go.

(posted and e-mailed)
--
Scott Post   spost@netusa1.net
http://www.netusa1.net/~spost


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:04 EST 1997
Article: 183342 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:06:46 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <32FFE246.50EC@ix.netcom.com>
References: <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au>
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To: Rick White <rwhite@enternet.com.au>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183342

Rick White wrote:
> 
> In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.
> 
> In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in, what
> appears to me, to be an indefinable code.
> 
> Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an article
> about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4
> through 16/4.
> 
> What is 4/4 and 16/4 ?  What does this mean?
> 
> If the /4 stands for 1/4", why don't you guys just say that 4/4 is 1"?
> It's got me puzzled!
> 
> Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know about.
> ;-)
> 
> (If you email me directly, please remove the * character from the given
> address.)

We yanks don't normally share this secret, but for you I'll make an
exception. Hope I don't get in trouble with the CIA.

The system is based on quarters of an inch. 4/4 equals 1 inch, 8/4 is
two inches, 6/4 is 1-1/2" etc.  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch
is not really one inch, it's 3/4 inch. The 1 inch refers to rough cut
material, before planing. Sometimes you will find 4/4 rough which will
be close to 1 inch, but rough on both sides. Of course if you plane it
yourself, it will end up somewhat thinner, although probably not as
small as commercial.

Please don't spread this around or tell where you learned it. I don't
want to get in trouble. Cheers.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From dunnc@[no_spam]edsug.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:05 EST 1997
Article: 183343 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Message-ID: <1997Feb10.171657.25@bbs.ug.eds.com>
From: Chris Dunn <"dunnc"@[no_spam]edsug.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:21:22 -0800
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Viliam Holuby wrote:
> 
> I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is lot of wooden garbage and sawdust.
> Does anybody have any idea how to use it ?
> Thank you for your ideas.
> 
> http://www.angelfire.com/mn/mvtrade/index.html
 
Viliam,

I use it for cleaning up whenever my little girl upchucks on the floor
(which is, fortunately, not very often). It also works great on oil
drips in the garage.

-- 
Chris Dunn
dunnc@edsug.com


From wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us Sat Feb 15 11:38:06 EST 1997
Article: 183344 of rec.woodworking
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From: "William M. Youngman" <wyoungmn@maf.mobile.al.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laying Hardwood Flooring
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:06:02 -0800
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Bill Verstege wrote:
> 
> In article <5cj4le$a3h@walters.East.Sun.COM>, tomo@Sun.COM says...
> >
> >
> >Good Day,
> >
> >My flooring is coming this week, so I am cramming like
> >a high school kid for exams.  I have a bit of time
> >because I want the flooring to climatize for about 2
> >weeks.  I could use a few tips.  The wood I have ordered
> >is 3 1/4" wide #2 common red oak.
> >
> >1.      I just read a book which suggested putting
> >        carpenters glue in the groove of each board?
> >        Any need to do this?  Seems like a lot of work.
> >
> >2.      Any suggestions for finishing?  My research
> >        suggests that I should go with a water based
> >        poly urethane.  I can't really go with Oil
> >        based, because I can't vent the room properly.
> >        The outside temp is too cold, if I vent the
> >        room it will be at the freezing point. I
> >        would appreciate specific brand names of
> >        finish which work well.
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Tom Ott
> >
> >
> 
> Tom-
> e-mail me your correct address.  I tried to send you a response
> to this post, but it bounced back as undelivered.
> Bill Verstege
> verstege@mc.net

Hi,	I couldn't find the original posting, so I'll post my comment here.
	Check out Wood Magazine of about a year ago, I think.  They recommended
Varathane water based urathane.  I used it on some cabinet doors that
had to stay indoors while finishing.  There was very little odor and I
was quite pleased with the results.  I don't think the water based
urathanes are quite as hard as oil based.  But, under these conditions,
it's the only way to go.  

Good Luck
Bill Youngman


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:07 EST 1997
Article: 183345 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:36:12 GMT
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Yes, you're being VERY naive. I have one (year old). After a year of
frustration I went out and bought a 12" INCA. Have you tried changing the
angle to 45 degrees on the Sears?  It's murder. And, it's not just mine. I
went to the store and tried out a few of theirs.  As you get closer and
closer to 45 degrees, the resistance increases disproportionally to the
point where you say 35 degrees is good enough.  I still have the Sears TS,
but only for cross-cuts with a 7.5" thin-kerf blade and for dados. Also,
with all the fiddling I did, I never once got a nice clean rip cut.  I had
Sears service come out several times, but they were never able to help me.

Let's see what other Craftsman's tools are dying on me: Electric drill
(run out is enormous), belt sander, router (fortunately, I have some real
routers so I'm not hurting there). I now have a whole shelf of moribund
Craftsman power tools. Not quite sure what to do with them. They're not
fully dead, so I hate to throw them away. On the other hand, if my kids
ever piss me off enough I could always give them all to them.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
--------------------------------------------------------------


Does anyone have any experience with the Sears belt-drive TS? Am I
being naive by even considering Sears?

Thanks for any advice.

Bob Dykeman



From wsmith@frontiernet.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:08 EST 1997
Article: 183346 of rec.woodworking
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From: Wayne Smith <wsmith@frontiernet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Accessories for Bosch 1613evs??????
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:57:43 -0500
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Anybody know where I can get edge guides and other stuff for the Bosch
1613evs. I bought it at HomeDepot but they can't order
parts..................Thanks...........Wayne


From owen@davies.mv.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:09 EST 1997
Article: 183347 of rec.woodworking
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>   droseman@erols.com (David Roseman) writes:

>  TAP Plastics carries a product called synskin or something that sounds
>  like that.  it is a fiberglass product guaranteed not to yellow, comes
>  4 feet wide and sold by the foot.  Costs only a couple of dollars per
>  foot (4 feet wide).  

Where do we find TAP Plastics?

Thanks.


From owen@davies.mv.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:10 EST 1997
Article: 183348 of rec.woodworking
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>  On 28 Jan 1997 19:11:55 GMT, gansemer1@llnl.gov (Jim Gansemer) wrote:
>  
>  TAP Plastics carries a product called synskin or something that sounds
>  like that.  it is a fiberglass product guaranteed not to yellow, comes
>  4 feet wide and sold by the foot.  Costs only a couple of dollars per
>  foot (4 feet wide).  

Sorry about my previous post, which 
carried an incorrect attribution.

I'd still like to know where to find
TAP Plastics.

Owen Davies


From Gloria@statue.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:11 EST 1997
Article: 183349 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gloria Orlandi <Gloria@statue.com>
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Subject: Needed - Stanley Plane Parts
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:00:38 -0600
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I just recently picked up a relativitely new Stanley #78 Rabit Plane
that was made in England.  I am missing the fence and would like to
replace it.  Does anyone out there willing to part with a spare part,
know where I can find a parts dealer, or know how to get in touch with
Stanley via the Web?

Appreciate any info.  Thanks



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:12 EST 1997
Article: 183350 of rec.woodworking
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Ron - Cool. Tell us, does the fence have a micro adjustment on it? How
long is the fence? Are the leading edges rounded off? Is it pre-drilled
for attachment of a longer add-on fence if you would want to do this?
How long is this fence?


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:13 EST 1997
Article: 183351 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
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Bill,
Seems like when I first tried using a shop vac. for big clean ups and
connecting to tools I saw the same thing. The only conclusion that I
came to was that the fliter system in the shop vacs just don't go that
good a job at traping VERY FINE DUST. If you watch the exhaust port on
your vac I'm sure you'll see the dust being blown right back into the
air. This makes the situation even worse than it you didn't use the vac.
 
Oh well......


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:14 EST 1997
Article: 183352 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet 1HP or 2HP Dust collector
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:56:51 -0900
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baumann@ wrote:
> 
> Instead of doing the mathematics on CFM, hose length, pressure, ...
> Does anyone have feedback on the 1HP model - is it adequte to suck everything
> from my Unisaw and my delta 6 inch jointer (not at same time)? assuming
> i am not running ductwork, i just roll the DC over to the machine?

YES!  rk


From wallyo@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:15 EST 1997
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From: wallyo@ix.netcom.com(Edward O'Grady)
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Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:48:21 GMT
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In <32fe12ce.89890192@news.compumedia.com> lumpkins@compumedia.com
(Earl Lumpkins, Jr.) writes: 
>
>On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:10:06 +0100, Viliam Holuby <vilo@NOVITECH.SK>
>wrote:
>
>>I have started to saw wood trunks. Everything is great, but there is
lot =
>>of wooden garbage and sawdust.
>>Does anybody have any idea how to use it ?
>>Thank you for your ideas.
>>
>>http://www.angelfire.com/mn/mvtrade/index.html
>>
>>
>>Viliam

Big Problem Guys, 
    How can I fill a small seam or hole on a wooden box using sawdust?
Do I use Polyurethane and then sand it?  I'm having a bad time with one
customer who is patiently waiting for a box.  Can anybody post an idea
or E-mail me.  Thanks very much.
                        Ed/WallyO
>
>The BEST idea I have ever seen for using sawdust is something I got
>off of "The Furniture Guys".  They use the sawdust with chemical
>strippers.  What an idea!  No more wasted rags.  I save all of the
>sawdust from my Dewalt Bisquit joiner.  I would suggest using
>something between sawdust and shavings.  Just put the stripper on then
>scrub it off with hand-fulls of the sawdust.  It absorbs and then you
>just throw it away after you are done.
>Good Luck,
>Earl
>



From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:17 EST 1997
Article: 183354 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 04:38:09 GMT
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r*white@enternet.com.au (Rick White) wrote:

;In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.

;In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in,
what 
;appears to me, to be an indefinable code.

;Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an
article 
;about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4 
;through 16/4.

;What is 4/4 and 16/4 ?  What does this mean?

;If the /4 stands for 1/4", why don't you guys just say that 4/4 is
1"?
;It's got me puzzled!

;Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know
about. 
;;-)

;(If you email me directly, please remove the * character from the
given 
;address.)
I cant imagine why you Austrians adopted a french measurement system ,
you do speak a kind of English down there dont you? so why all this
meter stuff ? I suppose you all have aspirationsof being somewhat
different to the rest of us ,a friend who had visited your fair land
[probably in search of Crocodile Dundee] said there was a lot of
wanabees down there and that they had long legs and hopped all over
the place .
Getting back to the wood bit las the other poster said lumber is
measured in 1/4" increments in the rough and according to industry
standards should be 1/8 " over the specified size per inch ,so 4/4
material should be 1and 1/8" thick 8/8 material ,2 and 1/4" thick .The
idea being that when cleaned up you get a full inch or two inch
,whatever .I personally have never seen any offerings less than 4/4
,any material less than 4/4 is considered to be 4/4 . there are some
exceptions in the case of exotics some I have seem are sold by the
pound [weight that is ] and I am not going to explain that.because you
probably to be in keeping with your french timber measurements
probably deal in francs.
             hope you can deal with a friendly little jab      mjh  



From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:17 EST 1997
Article: 183355 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
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Subject: Re: QUESTION ABOUT BUILDING A DECK
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"jamesc" <jamesc@ultranet.nh.com> wrote:

;I live in NH.  What type of material (wood, etc.) should I use and
why?

;Thanks in advance,
;Jim
I need more info before I can render an opinion ,two questions, how
big is this boat and what kind of weather conditions are you going to
use it in ?                              mjh



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:18 EST 1997
Article: 183356 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
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Subject: JDS Air-Tech 2000
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Just received my new model 350 today. This is a 'NEW and IMPROVED'
version of the old model 350. They still call it the 350 however the
specs have changed.
Size: 12 x 24 x 34
Weight: 62lbs
Motor/Blower 1/4 hp
625 CFM unrestricted air
550 cfm filtered air (old was 350)
power 2 amps, 155v 210watts

The instructions say that the hooks should be attached to the ceiling
into the joist of stud. My shop is in the basement and the floor joist
are on 12" centers. Also I wanted to hang the system 90 degrees to the
joist because of an I beam. The other deminsion for the hooks called out
in the directions is 22" (lenth of old 350). The new model needs to have
the hooks mounted at: 16" by 30".  I placed the hooks 16" on one joist
and then went down 3 joist (36") to mount the other set. I hung a 6"
lenght of chain from each hook and opened the eye bolts on the top of
the filter system and hung it there.
IT WORKS GREAT!!  The noise is not bad, a bit unususl for me because I
never have anything on in the shop but my tools. Now when there's no
tool running the filter system is - I'll get used to it by the weekend
I'm sure.

The best news is that the NEW 350 cost the same as the OLD 350. I got it
>from  Woodcraft.


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:19 EST 1997
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Actualy I prefer the Beisemeyer  I don't know which fence you have
Jack.  I use both we have the Delta at work and I have the Beis in my
shop.  
The Beis is ALOT faster to remove especialy if you want to use your
fence on the left hand side of the blade....

The Delta takes 5 min to switch the fence to the left. (Okay maybe
that's an exageration it just seems like it.  And when something is a
pain to change (especially for just one cut) some times we don't do
iteven when it is the Safe thing...) while the Beis you just lower the
blade and slide it over.

I don't know If Wood actualy purchases the fences and then test them
or ask Manufatures for the gear to test..Which would be pretty
unreliable.but the Delta at work has a .005 bow that is sometimes a
real  pain in the butt....(yes we called them, yes they sent a
replacement and yes it too was bowed.  My Beise on the other hand is
straight as a razor.  

So I don't know if ANYTHING is Definative but I WOULD say you wouldn't
be wasting your money by purchasing either one.

Like Jack said buy the one with the features that appeal to you.

Alan

BTW Jack... I''m not picking on you.... :-)
    
On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:36:29 -0500, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
wrote:


>That's not the point. I personally don't give a hoot about the history
>of the fence, I just want one with the features that appeal to me. That
>being said, the Delta comes out the clear winner. It's flatter, deflects
>less, can be used as a cut-off fence (with no cursor adjustment), comes
>off easier, can be replaced easier, etc.
>
>NO CONTEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
>
>-Jaz
>
>-- 
>> 
>> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
>> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
>> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:20 EST 1997
Article: 183358 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 04:41:21 GMT
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Thank you.

I was speaking figurativly.. not Legally... sorry for the
confusion....

Personally I don't know why you would want 15 outlets on the same
breaker... after all a breaker is what $7.00?

And you have to run romex anyway!

Alan

On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:59:20 -0600, The Lorax <lorax@pconline.com>
wrote:

>On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, Alan Murphy wrote:
>
>> You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
>> can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
>> .95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 
>
>     You are of course completely correct here, but as with most
>everything in our society there is a political side to it.  In most areas
>building codes will specify a maximum number of outlets you can have wired
>to a single 15 or 20 amp breaker.  If you have more than the prescribed
>number you can be cited that your wiring is in violation and a potential
>fire code.  This is utterly bogus but can lead to hundreds of dollars in
>fines and/or a court battle if you don't follow their rules to the letter. 
>
>

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From rnewton@cmpu.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:21 EST 1997
Article: 183359 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ron Newton <rnewton@cmpu.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Benchtop Jointer
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:20:41 -0600
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Has anyone had experience using the Delta 6" benchtop jointer? Any other
brand of benchtop jointer?  It seems rather flimsy (aluminum bed and
fence, small motor).  I don't have much money or room, but need a
jointer for small to medium size work.


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:22 EST 1997
Article: 183360 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source for High Quality Card Table Leg Hinges and brackets?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 04:50:27 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Try "The Woodworkers Store"....1800 279-4441


Alan

On 10 Feb 1997 06:17:49 GMT, "Rod Mackenzie" <PROCONTR@netcom.ca>
wrote:

>Does anyone know the source for high quality card table leg hinges and
>brackets something better than what is supplied by Wood crafter and the
>like. Prefer something in brass!
>
>Thanks.
>
>Rod Mackenzie

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM Sat Feb 15 11:38:24 EST 1997
Article: 183361 of rec.woodworking
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183361

In a message dated 97-01-27 06:52:57 EST, Druckerman@worldnet.att.net (Dave
Druckerman) writes:

<< > I'm curious how often the non-professionals among you out there are down
 > > (or out) in your shop:  frequency, and duration at a shot.  My wife
 > > occasionally rags on me (could be worse), and I'd like to know where I
 > > stand in the distribution.  Me?  Well, it comes in fits and starts, but
 > > probably averages out to about between 1 and 3 evenings per week, 3-4
 > > hours at a shot, plus about 4-8 hours per weekend.
 >
 > 1 to 2 evenings a week, for about 20 minutes a shot. Mebbe 2 hours, on a
 > good weekend. Most woodworking done while ostensibly taking out the trash,
 > and getting "lost" in the garage. This past weekend was a notable
 > exception, when I got about 5 total hours. Nearly completed something,
 > imagine that.
 >
 > O'Deen
  >>
2 evenings per week, 2-3 hours per evening, plus 3-4 hours on weekends.
 Greatest disappoinment in life:  having the evening to do woodworking, but
too tired to do it!!


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:25 EST 1997
Article: 183362 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Freud bits vibrate horrably.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 04:59:01 GMT
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ANd then let us know..... Freud makes great bits and they should all
be in balance.. it sounds like ... Let me as this are all these bits
12 shank I know the Rail stile bits are... if the other bits are a
1/4" chuck it might be the chuck ... or the shaft on the bits.

Freud has great people... I bought a new freude 2000 and didn't get
the 1/4 in insert seated just right a scratched a Freud bit shaft on a
new bit.... Called Freud... they helped me "Seat" the insert and
Replaced the bit...... No Charge... Cool guys.

Alan

On 10 Feb 1997 08:56:01 -0700, Martin A. Escarcega
<opencon@primenet.com> wrote:

>Contact Freud Directly about your problem. It sounds very much like the
>bit is out of balance. I wouldn't use it.
>
>Marty
>
>Lonnie Smith <Lonnie_Smith@dell.com> wrote:
>
>: Hi, I recently bought a set of Freud cabinet maker's bits(the red ones in the 
>: wooden case) from William Alden. The Rail,Stile and Panel Jointing bits all 
>: run smooth but the Panel Raising bits makes more noise and vibrates a 
>: little(causes a droning sound).
>: The comination roundover/rabbiting bit is even worse,it makes a horrendous 
>: droning noise and vibrates alot. Is this normal or is this what I should 
>: expect from Freud. Please don't flame me, I am new at this.
>
>
>--
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Martin A. Escarcega                       __  __     ____  ___       ___ ____
>opencon@primenet.com                     /__)/__) / / / / /_  /\  / /_    /
>                                        /   / \  / / / / /__ /  \/ /___  /
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:38:26 EST 1997
Article: 183363 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Once more into the breach....
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You would think that I'd learn... but no, I guess I'm too old.    Everytime
I dare to make critical comments about Norm Abrams technique I get flamed
up one side and down the other.  But being an iconoclast is partly it's own
reward.

So, once more into the breach dear freinds, once more into the breach.

This weekend I watched NYW....  Norm was building some sort of dough chest
(I tuned in halfway and missed the introduction).   The thing was a horror
of cross grain construction.   Now, that situation can be historically
accurate.  Many country items that would see hard usage would be made
cheaply, on the thought that it would be used up in a few years anyway - so
why spend a lot of time making it "well".   But then again, I wonder how
many people following the NYW knew that the thing is well designed to tear
itself to broken boards?

Anyway, about half way through the program Norm made a few comments about
"cross grain construction".  "Kewl", thinks I, "He is going to deal with
it".  Nope,  he mentions it, and then (how shall I say this to avoid
flamage?  Ah, bugger 'em)  he ****s up.

For example...  the front and back boards.  Nice WIDE glued up boards, over
a foot wide or horizontal grain.   These are attached to the endpieces,
which are vertical grained.  Precisely the sort of cross grain construction
that will cause problems.   How did people deal with this in the past? 
Well, they either made the furniture to be expendable (see above), or they
used an attachment only at the bottom and sliding dados up the sides, or
they used buttons on the inside.   How did Norm deal with it?  He used
Bisquicks.  Now he made some comment about "putting each biscuit in the
middle of the board".  Okay, so he only has 6" between the bisquicks...
that means that the boards will only move (3/16"/foot) about 3/32" of an
inch.   Either that will tear out the bisquicks, or it will split the front
and back boards.   OH WELL.

How about the bottom?  This shouldn't be such a problem, since the
expansion of the grain on the bottom is the same way as the expansion of
the grain on the ends.  BUT, Norm decides to use a cross grained cleat to
support the bottom, thus CAUSING a cross grained problem.   However,
acknowledging the cross grained problem, he says "I will only put glue in
the middle".  I wasn't sure how sturdy that would be,  and I think Norm
wasn't either... because he immediately uses his blow gun to bang in
"brahds" in the middle, and on each end.   So much for expansion!   Them
nails on the end will have to pull out (followed by the cute sound of the
bottom dropping out, and the contents hitting the floor.  Do NOT store your
crystal in this puppie!).  

Now, historically how would this have been dealt with?  Well, if Norm had
just used two short blocks on each corner, then there would NOT have been a
cross grained problem.  Or, one can run a dado across the end, and set the
bottom into the dado.  OR, I have seen some lovely old chests (including a
14'th C one in Kulturen Museum in Lund, Sweden), which has cross bars M&T
joined into the front and back sides, which carry the bottom.   The bars
are secured on the front and free to expand and contract through the M&T on
the back.  Very good construction.  Many ways to deal with this...   a
cross grained cleat affixed at ends and middle is NOT one of them.

Finally, I liked the idea of using a "dutchman" to fix the imperfections in
the wood.  Much better than the armoire he made a month or so ago where he
filled the hole with some horrible plastic that never matched the stain
color.  But WHY didn't he make the tiniest effort to match grain?  The
board was flat sawn, and he used what was essentialy a quarter sawn patch. 
It was very noticable.  Oh well, thats just personal preference... maybe he
wanted the patch to be noticed as a design element.

Don't order his "measuhed drahings", unless you want to make something that
will tear itself apart with humidty changes.  

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:38:27 EST 1997
Article: 183364 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
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In article <gboggs-060297154305@grunge.advtech.uswest.com>,
gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs) wrote:
> 
> In article <5ddbha$smm@fcnews.fc.hp.com>, tjs@fc.hp.com (tom sullivan)
> wrote:

> > > Since logging on Wed there have been 1400 posts to this group.  Most times
> > > tere are several 200-400 a day. .  For ease of use can this group be split
> > > into groups such as tool questions, finishing, plans, etc.  Smaller gropus
> > > would allow for improved use.
> > 
> > seriously, I agree withe the first poster. I started reading this
> > group a few months ago and have now been skipping it anytime there are
> > more than 50 messages. I think a split would be great and the
> > suggestion of tools, finishing, plans, misc real questions and misc
> > bashing would be a good split. we could possibly add a marketplace as
> > well for buying and selling stuff.
> 
> I agree. If I'm gone a day or two I simply dump all the posts and start
> afresh. I know I miss some interesting posts, but the cost of browsing
> around a thousand or so posts is simply too great, even in a GUI


Right...  We NEED to split the group.   However, we need to fully
appreciate the granularity of the required split.   Since people don't want
to even browse through the subject lines of more than 50 messages, that
means we have to split th group up into at least 1400/50 = 28 subgroups.

I would suggest:

rec.woodworking.wood_identification
rec.woodworking.wood_selection
rec.woodworking.wood_price
rec.woodworking.wood_availabilty

rec.woodworking.powertools.abrasives.beltsanders
rec.woodworking.powertools.abrasives.orbitalsanders
rec.woodworking.powertools.drills.corded
rec.woodworking.powertools.drills.cordless
rec.woodworking.powertools.drills.1/4"and smaller
rec.woodworking.powertools.drills.1/4"and bigger
rec.woodworking.powertools.saws.skill-type
rec.woodworking.powertools.saws.jig
rec.woodworking.powertools.tablesaws
rec.woodworking.powertools.RAS
rec.woodworking.powertools.B3000
rec.woodworking.powertools.planers
rec.woodworking.powertools.shapers
rec.woodworking.powertools.misc
rec.woodworking.powertools.lathes  (oh wait, they are already gone)

rec.woodworking.powertools.wantedtobuy
rec.woodworking.powertools.wanttosell
rec.woodworking.powertools.wanttorent
rec.woodworking.powertools.manualsneeded
rec.woodworking.powertools.comparisons

rec.woodworking.finishing.polyurethane
rec.woodworking.finishing.varnish
rec.woodworking.finishing.shellac
rec.woodworking.finishing.wax
rec.woodworking.finishing.oil
rec.woodworking.finishing.paint

Well, thats not enough, but it's a start.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:38:27 EST 1997
Article: 183365 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
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In article <8D1A3C4.023301247C.uuout@corpsoft.com>, lee.ward@corpsoft.com
(LEE WARD) wrote:
> 
> Gettin irritated over Junkmail may mean you have deep rooted
> pshchological problems,Learn to play in the schoolyard an dont worry be
> happy.........................
>                                         Dr Lee Ward


Or it may mean that he values his time more than you apparently value
yours.  Or are YOU a junkmailer?

Personally, I'd love to see a few junkmailers nailed with huge fines.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:29 EST 1997
Article: 183366 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:54:57 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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OK I saw the flames - wild stuff. I went to DejaNews this weekend and
read my brains out about routers - in particular I was interested in the
DeWalt 621 as I already had one on order. It came today !!!!!
I too love this little beast! It's a sweet thing !! Smooth and plunges
so cool, way less effort required than the big boys (Freud 2000e).
I was very disapointed finding out about the two very large short
commings of the 621. 1) no fence 2) no height adj. for use in a router
tabe - that's a BIG item.
 
So I called Tool Crib of the North. You can return anything you buy from
them any time you want - AS ONG AS IT's still NEW. (Don't flame me -
that's what the guy told me). 
 
Everything that's posted here is gloom-n-doom for availability for these
two items. And, there remains some discussion about how height
adjustment can be accomplished for this router. I spent about an hour or
so looking at it ( I really want to keep it but can't afford another
router at this time - and I want to do some table work, but mostly
mortise, rabbets, dados, etc) in an attempt to figure out how they could
or were going to make it work (height adj for table work).

So think about this. Suppose the fine adjustment bar (or a replacement)
were attached to the base or to the 3 pin stop. Say it was screwed into
one of the holes where one of the pins go. Then if you turned it the
motor would ride up/down the plunge rods. Try it - drop the fine height
adj. rod to the bottom, hold it with one hand and turn the adjustment
knob with the other - WOW, the motor moves up and down on the plungers
!!!!  
 
So, I went to the American Eagle catalog and looked at the picture of
their height knob. If you look at it you might see that it's not the
same as the router was shipped to you. I don't believe that there has to
be any type of rack and pinion (sic) (every where) type knob or drive
system built into the 621 elsewhere in order to make this thing work in
a table.
I am concerned that one might have to give up the great fine adjustment
when using the 621 out of the table - or change the height adjuster back
again. This is not real friendly. Those two adjustments are the slickist
I've seen on any router !!  Anyone seen better?

I'm still trying to decide what to do. I plan to call DeWalt in the AM
to discuss their (soon to be) height adjuster. Meaning that I would like
them to provide me with a description of how the thing will work.

Of course if anything of value comes from my discussion with them I'll
post you. I would expect that I'd get the same story that we've been
reading about here - in which case I won't post you.


From rxwong@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:30 EST 1997
Article: 183367 of rec.woodworking
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From: rxwong@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mobile bases.
Date: 11 Feb 1997 05:08:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32FC12F5.5701@netcom.ca>, Wes Yale <wyale@netcom.ca> writes:

>The only exception to the preceding is my table saw.  I was very worried
>about raising the table top almost three inches and creating dangerous
>handling problems.  For this situation I designed a hardwood frame that
>is much like the HTC frames that raises the table less than one inch. 
>Clearance above the floor is around 3/8 inch.

Can you elaborate on the design of your base for the table saw?  How did
you manage to raise it only 3/8 inch?  Did you attach the wheels to the
frame or to the base where the saw rests?  I want to build a frame for my
Unisaw and would appreciate any suggestions or ideas.  Thanks.

Raul


From abraham@cedar-rapids.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:31 EST 1997
Article: 183368 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FFFEAE.5E18@cedar-rapids.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:07:58 -0600
From: abraham@cedar-rapids.net
Organization: St. John the Baptist Orthodox Church / Mt. Sinai Orthodox Church Products
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183368

I recently posted a message and requested E-mail only responses because
every time I return to rec.WW, my post always disappears within a day or
sometimes even hours. I know I must be doing something wrong, but I
don't request this beacuse I'm lazy, just inexperienced with the
functions of the newsgroup.

Sorry,

Jameel
-- 
mailto:abraham@cedar-rapids.net
http://www.skep.com/mt-sinai/

St. John the Baptist Orthodox Church
Mt. Sinai Orthodox Church Products

Tel (800) 867-3036
Fax (319) 363-4252


From badger@intrepid.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:32 EST 1997
Article: 183369 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!cdc2.cdc.net!news.texas.net!news
From: badger@intrepid.net (Wayne R. Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:04:30 GMT
Organization: Badger Pond Woodworking
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3300fd46.26461887@news.intrepid.net>
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mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) wrote:

>
>  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
>wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
>premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
>that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
>difference really is?
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com

Neither of those nomenclatures are recognized by any plywood grading
authority that I'm aware of, Mike. Sounds as if your supplier has made
up various names for his goods. I can't offer any advice as I've never
heard either of those terms used before. In very general terms,
plywood is sometimes ranked paint-grade and stain-grade, perhaps this
is what is meant by the names your supplier is using?



Wayne Miller
Badger Pond Woodworking
Harpers Ferry, WV
badger@intrepid.net


From badger@intrepid.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:33 EST 1997
Article: 183370 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.ececs.uc.edu!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news
From: badger@intrepid.net (Wayne R. Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: QUESTION ABOUT BUILDING A DECK
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:12:08 GMT
Organization: Badger Pond Woodworking
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3301ff61.27000666@news.intrepid.net>
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"jamesc" <jamesc@ultranet.nh.com> wrote:

>I live in NH.  What type of material (wood, etc.) should I use and why?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jim

You'll have to tell a bit more about the proposed deck, Jim. How large
is it? What's your budget?



Wayne Miller
Badger Pond Woodworking
Harpers Ferry, WV
badger@intrepid.net


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:34 EST 1997
Article: 183371 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:27:04 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
tools as I had.

When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
tools to build things with.  

Remember the Craftsmanship of Norm Abrams?  Not the Commercialism of
Norm Abrams....

I know it's partly jelousy.  But man if I bought every gadget Norm has
I wouldn't be able to afford any lumber..(not to mention "Antique
Pine").

Common Norm build something the old fashiion way... Make a mortis and
tennon with a drill and a chisel... like I have to.  If nothing else
use NEW Pine for something.

I guess I could save up my PBS donation money and buy a "Dedicated
Mortising Tool"
but then how could my local station buy your show....

I used to think it was so neat that you used a spindel sander on your
drill press, Just like me... now the 5 hp super boss is bumped another
coommonality we used to have.

Okay use your Laser guided miter saw your 30in planer and 60in
jointer... glue away with your 'Moistier Activated Glue" before you
cordless biscut it and pnuematicly nail everything together or screw
it together with a different screw gun for each type of screw... but
let me ask you two questions.....

Why do you wear a tool belt?  There aren't any tools on it

Do yoy even own a Hammer?  Ya know the real non fiberglass reinforced
non night vision type hammer.

Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
making the tools we HAVE work better for us..... 

Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
days....but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....

I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....

Just my thoughts....

Alan
********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From badger@intrepid.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:36 EST 1997
Article: 183372 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!rutgers.rutgers.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!ais.net!cdc2.cdc.net!news.texas.net!news
From: badger@intrepid.net (Wayne R. Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:15:51 GMT
Organization: Badger Pond Woodworking
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <33030009.27168736@news.intrepid.net>
References: <5doai6$105@news.enter.net>
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adamson@enter.net (John Adamson) wrote:

>Hello!
>
>I have a very large piece of furniture I'm attempting to get through a
>very small door, relatively speaking.  I have most of the puzzle
>solved, but the final piece involves removing a 3' x 6' panel that was
>screwed and glued on three edges.  Is there anything that can break
>the glue bond without destroying the wood or the surrounding finish?
>(Although most of the area surrounding the joints is not visible) The
>wood is "solid core" with an oak finish; the furniture was
>manufactured in the late 1970's.  A friend suggested vinegar.  
>
>Here's a crude attempt at an ASCII drawing of the problem, with
>arrowheads pointing at the edges that are glued (use a fixed width
>font).  
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
>
>John P. Adamson


A bit of moist heat might do it, John. Try putting a damp towel over
the affected area and touching an iron to it. You'd want to only apply
the heat to an inconspicuous area. I've heard about using vinegar as
well although I've not tried it.



Wayne Miller
Badger Pond Woodworking
Harpers Ferry, WV
badger@intrepid.net


From mikef@sky.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:36 EST 1997
Article: 183373 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!alpha.sky.net!news	
From: "Mike Fairleigh" <mikef@sky.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Freud bits vibrate horrably.
Date: 11 Feb 1997 04:04:24 GMT
Organization: Mike Fairleigh
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <01bc17d0$bc667940$5232f2cd@mike-s-computer>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183373

Personally, I seek out Freud whenever a new router bit is called for,
because I've never experienced anything but perfection when I've used them.
 Sounds like you got a couple of lemons, and I'd contact Freud about it
(and don't use them in the meantime!).  Their number is (800) 472-7307.
-- 
Mike
mikef@sky.net

"If you're not a liberal by the time you're 20, you have no heart;
 If you aren't a conservative by the time you're 40, you have no brain."

                                              - Winston Churchill

Lonnie Smith <Lonnie_Smith@dell.com> wrote in article
<5dneid$1fg@starlifter.us.dell.com>...
> 
> Hi, I recently bought a set of Freud cabinet maker's bits(the red ones in
the 
> wooden case) from William Alden. The Rail,Stile and Panel Jointing bits
all 
> run smooth but the Panel Raising bits makes more noise and vibrates a 
> little(causes a droning sound).
> The comination roundover/rabbiting bit is even worse,it makes a
horrendous 
> droning noise and vibrates alot. Is this normal or is this what I should 
> expect from Freud. Please don't flame me, I am new at this.
> 
X-no-archive: yes



From barewd@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:37 EST 1997
Article: 183374 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Bob Reid <barewd@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: The Feds and Net Access
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:41:10 -0800
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <33000676.5CE3@ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183374

I have not looked to see if this has been posted before.  If it has
been, sorry, if not, take some time and write these idiots



>  >We are writing you this to inform you of a very important matter
> currently
> under review by the FCC. Local telephone companies have filed a proposal
> with the FCC to impose per minute charges for your internet service. They
> contend that your usage has or will hinder the operation of the telephone
> network.
> >
> >It is our belief that internet usage will diminish if users were
> >required to pay additional per minute charges. The FCC has created an
> email box for your comments, responses must be received by February 13,
> 1997. Send your comments to isp@fcc.gov and tell them what you think.
> >
> >Every phone company is in on this one, and they are trying to sneak it
in
> just under the wire for litiagation. Let everyone you know here this one.
> Get the e-mail address to everyone you can think of.
> >
> >isp@fcc.gov
> >
> >Please forward this email to all your friends on the internet so all our
> voices may be heard!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Spiretech
> 
>


From Frank.Buercklin@ericsson.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:39 EST 1997
Article: 183375 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!pumpkin.pangea.ca!eru.mt.luth.se!newsfeed.luth.se!news.luth.se!erix.ericsson.se!eua.ericsson.se!cnn.exu.ericsson.se!news
From: Frank Buercklin <Frank.Buercklin@ericsson.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta 6" Motorized Jointer (YUCK!)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:07:41 -0800
Organization: Ericsson, Inc.
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Okay, I'm finally going to admit it so no one else will make the same 
mistake as I did.  

About a year a go, I bought the Delta 6" Motorized Jointer from Home 
Depot.  It was about $150 cheaper than the Next one up.  I thought, 
"great, I can save some money here."  

Sure I saved some money but at a real price.  The aluminum fence on the 
thing is a real piece of crap.  It flexes and is very difficult to square 
to the infeed/outfeed tables.  The depth of cut adjustment really sucks 
and the measurements on the adjustment are about useless.  I have yet to 
figure out a way to level the infeed table to the outfeed as it is not 
riding in traditional dovetail ways.  

It cuts pretty smooth and hase 3 blades but sure is a pain in the neck to 
 make square edge joints with.

So if you are considering buying it, DON'T!!  It's a waste of money based 
on my experience.

BTW, if anyone has one of these and has found fixes for the problems I 
mentioned, I sure would like to hear what you did.

Thanks,  Frank
-- 
******************************************************
*Frank Buercklin  --Elec. Eng. and Wood Tinkerer     *
*email:  Frank.Buercklin@ericsson.com                *
*                                                    *
******************************************************


From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:41 EST 1997
Article: 183376 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!rutgers.rutgers.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 03:00:04 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 44
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References: <5doai6$105@news.enter.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183376

When luthiers need to remove the neck of an instrument, they often
remove the fret directly above the neck joint, drill a small hole in
the fret slot, and use a basketball needle, tube, and teakettle to
pump steam into the joint. This softens the glue so the neck can be
removed. Maybe you could use a technique like this...?



adamson@enter.net (John Adamson) wrote:

>Hello!

>I have a very large piece of furniture I'm attempting to get through a
>very small door, relatively speaking.  I have most of the puzzle
>solved, but the final piece involves removing a 3' x 6' panel that was
>screwed and glued on three edges.  Is there anything that can break
>the glue bond without destroying the wood or the surrounding finish?
>(Although most of the area surrounding the joints is not visible) The
>wood is "solid core" with an oak finish; the furniture was
>manufactured in the late 1970's.  A friend suggested vinegar.  

>Here's a crude attempt at an ASCII drawing of the problem, with
>arrowheads pointing at the edges that are glued (use a fixed width
>font).  

>Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

>John P. Adamson
>                         
>                         
>                    ____________
>                   /           /|
>                  +-----------+ |
>                  |</   ^    >| /  
>                  |/          |/

>         +------------+
>         |    panel   |  
>         |            |  
>         +------------+






From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:42 EST 1997
Article: 183377 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hardwood/plywood
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:01:37 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <5dp201$g85@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32FF9472.494@prodigy.com>
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In article <32FF9472.494@prodigy.com>, salgarcia@prodigy.com says...
>
>Anyone know where one can purchase mahogany,cherry and/or maple plywood
>in the Southern California Area? What about solid mahogany, cherry,
>and/or maple???
>Thanks in advnace... email ok, too (salgarcia@prodigy.com)

Reel lumber has a nice selection of plywood. I use the store in 
Riverside but theres another one closer to you. Look in the phone 
book for Reel Lumber, and you may find others sources as well.

stev





-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From Plecostamus@Fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:42 EST 1997
Article: 183378 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!usenet
From: Plecostamus@Fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Anyone have experience with building stem-ware holders?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 06:12:29 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183378

My mother-in-law wants me to build her two 12x12 stem-ware glass
holders.  Now I know that this isn't rocket science, but since it my
MOTHER-IN-LAW I would like to get this right the first time if you get
my drift.  I have looked around town and can't believe that I can't
find anything to look at.  I guess my real need is to know  how far
back into the wood is the hole for the base to rest on, and about how
far apart are the cuts made for the stem?  I have layed out several of
my glasses and have a rough idea, but thought their may be rule of
thumb available here.  Any help or ideas?

** JOE **
<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From awrobinson@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:43 EST 1997
Article: 183379 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!spamz.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: awrobinson@aol.com (Awrobinson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:24:30 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 11
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183379

Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
tools from Jet or Grizzly? In particular I'm looking for
drill presses. There's lots of Delta and other brands in
the catalogs I get, but no Jet or Grizzly.

Thanks in advance!

Andrew Robinson
Andrew Robinson
---
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine alone and do not represent the views of America Online


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:44 EST 1997
Article: 183380 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dovetail jigs
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:43:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <19970211064300.BAA15230@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I suggest taking a look at the Keller Dovetail System.  Woodhaven all of
the models and other brands as well. Contact Woodhaven at 1.800.344.6657
and at http://www.woodhaven.com.  Or contact Keller directly at Keller &
Co., 1327 I Street, Petaluma, CA 94952.  Telephone (707)763-9336.

Easy set up, easy to use and no router bushing required.  He (Keller does
a lot of WW shows.  He stands behind his product.

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:45 EST 1997
Article: 183381 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Bench Plans
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:43:58 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <19970211064300.BAA15236@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Hey Rick, etal

There is a good looking router table in the #44 issue of Am Woodworker,
April ' 95 and another rather interesting one in issue #49, the current
Today's Woodworker  That publication also had one in issue #13.  There are
many out there and several have been suggested in this forum.   It seems
to be an ongoing subject.

Ron


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:46 EST 1997
Article: 183382 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handyclub of America
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:43:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 14
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I think much more of them than Doug does.  I am a charter member and  find
it to be a fine organization with a good magazine.  It is not a
woodworkers magazine, it is a DIY/handyman type.  They cover a wealth of
subjects and ask members to test tools (free give away) and just plain
give products away through a regular program.  I even got free checks from
them.  They are just coming on to the internet with a page in progress at
http://www.handymanclub.com(.)  My wife checks out all of my magazines (10
of them) and thinks that American How-To (Handyman Club publication) is
one of the better.  Give them a look see!!  Call them at 1.612.988.7403
and e-mail at handymanchub@pclink.com(.)

Regards,  Ron




From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:47 EST 1997
Article: 183383 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 11 Feb 1997 06:40:41 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 54
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>  I don't seem to be bothered any of the problems mentioned in this
>thread. (maybe due to the .edu address ) But I can tell you one 
>thing if I cant reply to a (From) address I don't bother trying
>to figure out how to get an answer to the questioner. Just trying
>to reduce the excess trafic on this news group.   ...lew...
>

Thats interesting. Probably is the edu in your address. For those of 
us with regular isps tho, we do get a lot of junk and it is irritating.
I actually received some junk that included a threat that if I flamed
the poster in any way, he would email bomb me and see that my address
was given to all sorts of shady net dealers. These people are parasites
imo.
>From  all the response I received from the original post, I have made
a couple conclusions. A simple *asterisk wont cut it, better to use
letters as a falsifier in a email address. Better yet, just use a 
totally false address. Apparently these people have some pretty good
bulk address gathering/deriving software at their disposal. Some of
them do read thru articles.
Also, there are apparently federal restrictions on activities of this
nature, pertaining to US code, title47:
The Code goes on Title47,Sec.227(a)(2)(B),a  computer/modem/printer 
meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),it 
is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such quipment,
punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss , or $500.,
whichever is greater,for each violation.
It is unfortunate that myself and others are bothered to the extent
that we alter our return address, but thats what we have to do. So,
I am not offended when I have to manually fix a return to get mail to
someone on a newsgroup.
It also makes good sense to alter your return address. The net is a 
public forum, and thru dejanews anyone with even a portion of your real
address anyone can see anything you have ever posted to any group. Just 
takes a little footwork is all.
Sorry to get long winded, but I thought Id share my thoughts, especially
seeing that more and more folks on the group are trying to avoid the
spamming that comes with posting here.

stev





-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From bjdever@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:48 EST 1997
Article: 183384 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!mindspring!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: bjdever@pipeline.com (Bruce J. Devereaux)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt 18 volt Cordless Saw
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 03:59:12 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <5dp4pb$3ju@camel2.mindspring.com>
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rockman@ix.netcom.com(rockman) wrote:

>Hello all...

>Just wondering if anybody has any experience with this unit.
>I was curious if it lived up to it's claims of being able to 
>cut 125 2x4's or rip 130 feet of 1/2 inch plywood, all on one 
>charge. Any comments welcome. 

>Thanks in advance,
>Mike
I bought the combo 1/2" drill/saw in Dec. for use in remodeling. I
haven't kept track of how many 2X4's or plywood cuts made on a single
charge but am very pleased with the performance of both tools. The saw
is light and powerful enough to cut 3/4" MDF and old Doug. fir 2X4's.
The beauty of the saw is it's light weight for the power. Before I
used a worm drive Skil saw for cutting which was too cumbersome for
many smaller tasks. The drill is solid and only slows down at the end
of the charge. 



From stevek@aracnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:48 EST 1997
Article: 183385 of rec.woodworking
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From: stevek@aracnet.com (Steve Knight)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood finish care question
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 06:47:37 GMT
Organization: aracnet.com -- Portland's loudest electrons
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Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>lostchld@flash.net wrote:
>> 

>> The question came up when we aquired a 1936 student desk.  It would seem
>> to need moisture in the wood since I'm certain it hasn't seen any
>> regular care, and probably quite a bit of abuse.  Any thoughts on the
>> subject?

Wood does not need "moisture" added too it. Oil would not do that
anyway. This is all hype that furniture polish companies promote to
seel almost worthless product. All Polish does is make the piece smell
good and make it slippery. So things tend to slide off not dig in. Any
oil only works on bare wood or wood with oil and or wax.

Doggie~ on Irc



From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:49 EST 1997
Article: 183386 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 07:00:26 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Well here is the Answer according to the U.S. 
National Electrical Code....

5 outlets on any 15 amp  circut.

(It used to be 8 for homes and 5 for industrial
but now it seem that it is just a flat 5

Alan
********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:38:50 EST 1997
Article: 183387 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Tune <Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:59:44 +1000
Organization: Technix Consulting Group
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Message-ID: <330026F0.55D5@technix.com.au>
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Rick White asked a question that I should have asked ages ago, 
because I've been trying to decipher it also.  Bill Pounds
gave an informative and humourous answer:

> ...
> The system is based on quarters of an inch. 4/4 equals 1 inch, 8/4 is
> two inches, 6/4 is 1-1/2" etc.  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch
> is not really one inch, it's 3/4 inch. The 1 inch refers to rough cut
> material, before planing. Sometimes you will find 4/4 rough which will
> be close to 1 inch, but rough on both sides. Of course if you plane it
> yourself, it will end up somewhat thinner, although probably not as
> small as commercial.

So let me make sure I've got this clear.  When something says 8/4 maple,
I can go and buy finished maple 38mm finished size (1.5 inch)?
What this means is that I can simply treat each "unit" as 4.75mm 
finished size.  Am I right?

So here's my question.  How do I specify 4" finished size?  In
Australia we would go and buy 100mm timber.  Would you ask 
for 5.33?  Surely not... please tell me it's not like that...
--
Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
              "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"


From richard.beebe@yale.edu Sat Feb 15 11:38:51 EST 1997
Article: 183388 of rec.woodworking
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From: beebe@biomed.med.yale.edu (Rick Beebe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: 11 Feb 1997 04:42:33 GMT
Organization: Biomedical Computing Unit - Yale Medical School
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:20:41 -0500, bearfoot@erols.com <bearfoot@erols.com> wrote:
>I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
>Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive, and I
>question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
>needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco, but
>that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the ones
>for Senco.
>
>What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??

Both are mighty fine units. Personally I prefer the Senco. It seems to
fit my hand better. IMHO they're the finest nailers made today. BUT, if
the price difference is prohibitive, you certainly won't be disappointed
with the Bostich. Rolls...Bentley...Rolls...Bentley...

    _____________________________________________________________________

     Rick Beebe					   (203) 785-4566
     Sr. Network Engineer			    Fax: (203) 737-4037
     ITS-Med Technology Operations
     Yale University School of Medicine
     333 Cedar Street, New Haven, CT 06510	richard.beebe@yale.edu
    _____________________________________________________________________





From trofimuk@v-wave.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:52 EST 1997
Article: 183389 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.agtac.net!crash.videotron.ab.ca!claire@mail.videotron.ab.ca
From: David Trofimuk <trofimuk@v-wave.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for plans
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:05:21 -0800
Organization: Videotron Internet
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Tankerjock wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for plans to build a bunk bed for my two young sons.  Any
> ideas on where to look would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian
House of Tools had some by WoodSmith   only $41


From WLSM17A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:53 EST 1997
Article: 183390 of rec.woodworking
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From: WLSM17A@prodigy.com (Wendell Diggs)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: 11 Feb 1997 07:18:00 GMT
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The workbench is probably the best tool you will ever buy, and also one
of the most expensive.  Buy a good stable and HEAVY bench and make
sure the vises are sound and the bench dogs can be replaced with wooden
ones.  Good benches can be ordered through Garrett Wade and Woodcraft
Supply Company but be sure to take out your credit card.



From wiblovely@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:53 EST 1997
Article: 183391 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: wiblovely@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 11 Feb 1997 07:28:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
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Now the you, an Aussie, has broken our secret American code you must
surely know the we are going to have to shoot you !!!  [GRIN] .

Maybe some bright guy or gal could explain to us why a 2 x 4 x 8 (i.e. 2
inches by 4 inces by 8 feet) is really 1-1/2 inches x 3-l/2 inches x 8
feet ?  Note that the width and thickness are both reduced but not the
length ?


From wiblovely@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:54 EST 1997
Article: 183392 of rec.woodworking
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From: wiblovely@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for News Group Split
Date: 11 Feb 1997 07:28:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 6
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If we are going to split this newsgroup, one very important category would
be "Tools".

Maybe its just my impression but it seems that literally half the message
traffic is about "Which is the best TS, router, planer, drill, RAS, widget
or framistan?"


From jonaw@nr.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:55 EST 1997
Article: 183393 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jonaw@nr.infi.net (Jonathan Waterbury)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:20:58 -0600
Organization: Waterbury Woodworking
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <jonaw-1102970020580001@208.142.81.26>
References: <32FF2811.91F@veribest.com> <32FF6877.5FA5@nortel.ca> <5dog34$fof@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
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In article <5dog34$fof@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>,
fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis) wrote:

> If you decide to try friction cutting, make sure your saw is clean. 
> Friction cutting is almost like torch cutting in that the high speed
> blade heats the metal almost to the melting point and then drags it off
> in a pretty good shower of sparks.  The build up of hot "filings" can
> easily start a fire.
 
I've wondered about this as well: What if one were to put a metal cutting
blade on a slowed down a Delta 14" bandsaw? How would that work compared
to a dedicated metal-cutting bandsaw? The friction cutting thing appeals
to me not in the least.

-- 
Cheers,
Jonathan


From levie@hiwaay.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:56 EST 1997
Article: 183394 of rec.woodworking
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From: levie@hiwaay.net (Jim Levie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with Saw
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 03:57:46 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
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On Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:13:20 -0500, Dale King <dking@nolansys.com>
wrote:

>All,
>
>I'm having a frustrating time with my Sears Craftsman 10in Radial Arm
>Saw. The blade cuts but only barely. It bogs down to a stop when cutting
>anything other than a straight cut thru pine.  The starting capacitor
>was bad so I replaced it and it checks out good. There is a relay in the
>circuit and that's been replaced. I've had Sears on the phone and they
>can't figure it out. I took the motor with the starting capacitor and
>relay to a motor shop and had it bench tested and it tested good. The
>saw is about 10 years old but hasn't been used much in the last 5 years
>and wasn't used much before that. I've got a new blade, so that's not
>it. Any ideas out there? I hate to dump the thing since it looks brand
>new but I do need it to cut wood. Any help would be muchly appreciated.
>You can reply to me directly if you prefer at dking@nolansys.com.
>
Since you had the motor tested it is unlikely to be the problem. Other
possibilities include (in no particular order) faulty wiring to the
saw (check the voltage at the motor under load), blade installed
backwards (don't laugh, I did it once on my table saw), or misaligned
saw (the plane of the blade has to be perpendicular to both the table
and the fence or it will bind in the cut). Misalignment of the arm
just means that you'll make angled cuts.


From richwalko@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:38:57 EST 1997
Article: 183395 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Richard Walko" <richwalko@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shaker Tall Clock Blueprint Help
Date: 11 Feb 1997 08:18:24 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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A friend is searching for Mason and Sullivan's blueprint # 0112X, Shaker
Tall Clock.  The Mason and Sullivan company went out of business about four
years ago.  Some drawing that my friend has been able to get of a museum
original do not have enough detail.  Does anybody have these blueprints or
know where they might be available?

Thanks,
Rich Walko




From gpotte@IBM.NET Sat Feb 15 11:38:58 EST 1997
Article: 183396 of rec.woodworking
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Mark Young wrote:
>
> Craftsman seemed to get teh best review in a recent magazine article I
> read; I can't remember the model number ... there were three Craftsman
> models and the middle priced one got the best rating.
>
> Anyone here that can attest to it being a great vac?
>
> --
> (newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address)
>
> Mark Young
> marky@up.net

I bought a 5HP Sears and so far it's done what I want and thats clean up
wood chips and dust.


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:58 EST 1997
Article: 183397 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: 11 Feb 1997 09:06:48 GMT
Organization: none
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Some more adventurous hippos like this stuff for use during
the mating season.  <g>


stev




-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From msass1@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:38:59 EST 1997
Article: 183398 of rec.woodworking
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From: msass1@aol.com (MSass 1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HELP me finish my window,door,&baseboard trim????
Date: 11 Feb 1997 09:16:04 GMT
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  I'm refinishing all woodwork in my old house. I've got 3-inch wide oak
door &        window trim and 7in. wide baseboard trim from the living &
dining rooms of the      house and 4in. wide door & window trim and 8in.
wide baseboard trim from all      the other rooms. All trim is stripped of
paint & stain.I'm ready to start finishing!!     1) Hey the living room &
dining room trim looks different from the rest of the trim?? Nice
grain-it's oak I'm sure-looks like my floors-on the backside these boards
have factory cut like back of floor boards-house built in 1920.Rest of
trim    has more grainy wild pattern but very hard-any ideas???           
                           2) Should I put all trim back on wall before
restaining???                                     3) Should I give all
trim a fine sanding before refinishing???                                
4) Should I  repair all nail holes & miner imperfections?If so what should
I use     that will look good when stained-exactly???                     
                                   5) I'm looking for a nice golden-not
orange color?? Shellac,oil,stain-what should  I use-for trim??Then do I
seal with laquor,polyurethane etc.??Can I just use an all in one RED DEVIL
DOG product??I spent too much time stripping 5layers of paint  and old
dark stain off this wood with chemicals & elbow power to mess up now!!    
6) How many coats of each then sand etc.???                               
                   7) Have a few small crack-down middle from ends of
mostly baseboards-should I glue and clamp or will finish hide or nothing i
can do???                                       8) Have two baseboards
with chunks notched out or damaged during demolition any repair ideas???? 
                                                                          
              9) Is it worth trying to de-nail ,strip ,sand & finish all
that little border trim and  crown molding??? Some of it got demo-ed!?    
                                                   10) Can I glue trim
back to wall with liquid nails or other adhesive and use fewer or no
nails?? If I gotta nail it -what size nail Boards 3/4in.thick & 1/2in.
drywall??? Should I pre drill holes-very hard nail bending stuff!? How
many nails per foot??  That liquid nails is sweet and strong????Whats
best????                                       Thats enough for now-I do
have some wood skill level- I sanded and finished my oak floors and
restored the built-in oak bookcases-sweet looking!! Answers to one or a
few or all of my questions -greatly appreciated!! Post here or E-mail me
your book!!! Thanks!!!!                                                   
                                                   M & M & M 


From nsummers@istar.ca Sat Feb 15 11:39:00 EST 1997
Article: 183399 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsummers@istar.ca (Neil Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesemeyer Fence?
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:38:05 GMT
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:50:03 -0800, "Ken D." <kdeschene@lakefield.net>
wrote:

>I just purchased a Jet Xacta Fence (52" homeshop) for my Craftsman 10"
>contractor's saw (about 5 years old). It will not bolt directly to my
>saw without drilling either the fence rail, or the saw table itself.
>Does anyone know if the Biesemeyer 50" homeshop fence will bolt to my
>saw without drilling new holes?  Any comments on either fence? 
>Thanks...

What's wrong with drilling new holes? I had to drill holes in both the
angle iron and the apron of my TS...no problem.



**************************************
nsummers@istar.ca
Neil Summers
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
***************************************


From ted@mip.net Sat Feb 15 11:39:01 EST 1997
Article: 183400 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ted Scott <ted@mip.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:26:15 -0500
Organization: HAH!
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Tim Hoyman wrote:
> In article <797d285947@millard.demon.co.uk>, Jeff Gorman
> > Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> > by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
> I agree with Jeff on this one, if the person just wants the replies
> emailed because they do not want (lazy?) to come back to rec.ww and check

Well, Jeff and Tim, in my situation my NNTP server expires R.WW twice
daily and I 
often miss a large number of replies.  Even so I still don't
specifically  
request a personal followup, but they are always appreciated.

Rather than a thank you, it used to be accepted practice 'round heeya
that one would summarize responses and condense the info into the
essence 
of the consensus (or lack thereof) and possibly asking a followup or
just
to make absitively posilutly sure the horse was indeed deceased (and
ready 
for resurrection in 4 to 6 months ;-)

-Ted 

Just feeling my age and missing the old days which were more harsh in 
some ways but kinder and gentler in other ways.


From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:39:02 EST 1997
Article: 183401 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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> The fact is, I paid $799 for a saw and I expect it to be able to be
> adjusted properly. 

But this did not answer the question, which was, how precise is good
enough? It is not possible to get to zero error, so there must be a
tolerance value. What is "adjusted properly?"



From georgii1@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:03 EST 1997
Article: 183402 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopsmith 5 ??
Date: 11 Feb 1997 10:48:14 GMT
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I'm not a magician and I'd be willing to bet that I can set up as fast as
any of those folks that do the demonstrations.

As with anything once you've done it's no problem.  Canging that tool over
is no different than setting up other tools for work.  

Jolyn


From georgii1@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:04 EST 1997
Article: 183403 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plywood end-grain
Date: 11 Feb 1997 10:56:19 GMT
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I should think it would be easier to use wood tape (veneer tape) for the
edge then paint.  That would give you a smooth, wood edge.  Else, you
could you a wood patch (or even plaster) depending on what you are
building.  

What are you building?

Jolyn 


From nsummers@istar.ca Sat Feb 15 11:39:05 EST 1997
Article: 183404 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsummers@istar.ca (Neil Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail order to Canada...
Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:47:53 GMT
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:28:48 -0500, Henry Douglas
<henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote:


>> Darren King, BreakPoint Design
>Tool Trend from Concord, Ontario is a large tool shop that provides a
>catalogue and ships Canada wide or to the US, phone 1-800-387-7005 to
>request their current catalogue or House of Tools from Edmonton, Alberta
>ships Canada wide and to US, phone 1-800-661-3987 to request their
>current catalogue.  Another supplier in Canada is Busy Bee Tools in
>Toronto who ship all over the country but I don't have their phone
>number at my finger tips.  I teach cabinetmaking at a college and have
>dealt with all of these companies.
>
>If a product is made in the US (Delta) for instance, you don't pay duty
>coming to Canada, but if it is made off shore (Japan, etc.), then you
>pay duty coming into Canada.  Hope this helps.

I'd recommend avoiding US mail order companies for the simple reason
that by the time you get the product here you'll end up paying more
than if you found the same or similar product here. At least this has
been my experience.  I've checked out Tool Trend and find their prices
to be ridiculously expensive for a mail order company. I won't waste
bandwidth here but if you need proof I'll post several comparisons to
prove this. Don't no about Busy Bee. I requested a catologue before
Xmas but was only able to get a Xmas flyer. I've not yet received my
promised full catologue.


**************************************
nsummers@istar.ca
Neil Summers
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
***************************************


From ted@mip.net Sat Feb 15 11:39:06 EST 1997
Article: 183405 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ted Scott <ted@mip.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 220 help
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:44:46 -0500
Organization: HAH!
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ngised wrote:
> follows:   -   - the electrician told me that this was code,but my
> 
>              0
> 
> welder has a plug config as follows:    \    /
> 
> 
> 
>                                            |

The pin configuration changes with the amperage rating of the outlet.
NOTE that this does not necessarily relate to the size of the breaker.

I believe (read if I remember correctly) that the - - is a 15A outlet,
the - | is a 20A outlet and the others are heavy-duty (>20A) that vary 
depending on the device. Please assume that the above actual ratings 
are incorrect and ask your electrician (or electrical supplier) which 
is which.

-Ted


From triweb@one.net Sat Feb 15 11:39:07 EST 1997
Article: 183406 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Marty Miller" <triweb@one.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Billiard Table
Date: 11 Feb 1997 04:30:04 GMT
Organization: OneNet Communications HUB News Server
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RickM@mnsinc.com wrote in article <32fe4ee8.26242278@news1.mnsinc.com>...
> On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 15:15:30 GMT, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael
> John Hide) wrote:
> 
> >Clayton Fopp <cfopp@nexus.edu.au> wrote:
> >
> >;Does anyonr know where I can get hold of or download plans for a
> >;billiard table?
> >;Clayton Fopp
> >;Australia
> >;cfopp@nexus.edu.au
> >
> >Just remember if you get one from the US that it will not be the same
> >as  a real one[ UK type ],the tables here  are really pool tables
> >which are smaller and have bigger  pockets which makes every thing
> >much easier. Hey perhaps thats what you want.
> >                      mjh
> >
> 
> The man didn't ask about a pool table.  He asked about a billiard
> table, which has no pockets, large or small.

Don't know about any plans for a billiard/pool table, but the UK does not
have a monopoly on big tables with little pockets.  The smaller pockets are
typically used for snooker, and can indeed be found here in the U.S.  I've
seen quality billiard/pool tables ranging in length from 6 feet to 12 feet,
with the longer tables for snooker.  If you've ever played snooker, it's a
rather difficult game as compared to the familiar 8-ball played on a 6-8
foot table.  And, billiard table to indeed have pockets, although carom
tables (or carom billiards) do not.

If building a table, you'll probably get the most enjoyment out of an
8-footer.  Plus, most good pool halls in the U.S. use 8-footers (although
there is one here in Cincy that has 12-foot snooker tables), so why not get
good on an 8-footer then go out and win some $$$ to pay for new tools.

-- 
-----------------------------
Marty Miller
triweb@one.net
Proprietor of The Triathlete's Web
http://w3.one.net/~triweb



From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Sat Feb 15 11:39:08 EST 1997
Article: 183407 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!sun4nl!esatst!charles
From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Spar Varnish
Message-ID: <E5Fq6n.D27@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:51:58 GMT
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 10
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183407

In one of the latest FWW's 'spar varnish' was mentioned.  What
is it?  I could not find a good translation in the dictionaries
or Webster I have.

Thanks
-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca Sat Feb 15 11:39:09 EST 1997
Article: 183408 of rec.woodworking
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From: stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca (Walt Stein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:13:46 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
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r*white@enternet.com.au (Rick White) wrote:

>In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.
>
>In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in, what 
>appears to me, to be an indefinable code.
>
>Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an article 
>about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4 
>through 16/4.
>
>What is 4/4 and 16/4 ?  What does this mean?
>
>If the /4 stands for 1/4", why don't you guys just say that 4/4 is 1"?
>It's got me puzzled!
>
>Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know about. 
>;-)
>
>(If you email me directly, please remove the * character from the given 
>address.)


Canucks use the secret code, too.  Hope I don't get kneecapped for
divulging secrets, but I've always found the n/4 designation an
excellent method of telling my yardman, who belongs to the same secret
order,  that I want random-width, random-length rough-sawn  hardwood
stock (I believe it only applies to hardwood) as opposed to the
nominal 1-inch or 2-inch, which has been edged and surfaced to
approximately 3/4 or 1 1/2.  It also permits quick description of the
in-between thicknesses.  If you want to end up with actual 1-inch
finished stock, you ask for 5/4, which will usually be 1 1/4 plus
(where I buy, anyway,)  an additional 1/16th to 1/8th.

IOW, "sawmill" as opposed to "dimensioned" hardwood.  

Yours, :^)
Walt

"It would seem that the universe is thirty billion light years across and every inch of it would kill us if we went there. This is the position of the universe with regard to human life." --Martin Amis


From paul@rrnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:10 EST 1997
Article: 183409 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul <paul@rrnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue or Screws for outdoors project?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:26:03 -0600
Organization: Red River Net - Internet Communications (phone: 701-232-2227)
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Reply-To: paul@rrnet.com
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If your joinery is sound, just use a good water proof glue such as
Titebonds II or a polyurathane type glue like Gorilla or Excel.  The
need for screws again depends on the joinery.  Most of my outdoor
furniture is screwed and glued and I have had no problems for 5 years
now.  

Good luck.


From paul@rrnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:11 EST 1997
Article: 183410 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul <paul@rrnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta sliding table.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:30:25 -0600
Organization: Red River Net - Internet Communications (phone: 701-232-2227)
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Anybody have the delta sliding table ?  Looks like a neat idea.  How is
the fit and finish and more importantly the accuracy ?


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:12 EST 1997
Article: 183411 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: scroll saw question
Message-ID: <8D1C410.02330125FE.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 97 17:20:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Make a router table outta the Saw/deck an buy a new scrollsaw IMHO.
                                                   Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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From adam@asofa.org Sat Feb 15 11:39:13 EST 1997
Article: 183412 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:41:11 -0600
From: adam@asofa.org
Subject: humidor exhibition & auction
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855604879.20616@dejanews.com>
Reply-To: adam@asofa.org
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
To: adam@asofa.org
http: //www.furnituresociety.org/S&M.html
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The American Society Of Furniture Artists
(ASOFA), a national nonprofit organization will
be hosting an exhibition and subsequent
auction of 20 hand-crafted humidors by some
of the most well known and collectible
furniture artists in the U.S. today.  For
additional information please visit http://
www.furnituresociety.org/S&M.html.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:14 EST 1997
Article: 183413 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sources and info re highest quality plywood
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:51:08 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <5dpmcj$c0o@camel2.mindspring.com>
References: <19970209091501.EAA03141@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Far west plywood, Reseda, Calif has a fine selection. They have some
premium Russian baltic birch that's a joy to work with. It comes an
odd ball size (metric) about 5' x 5'. It has many plys and they all
are solid with no voids.

Trevor.

aandrlee@aol.com (AandRLEE) wrote:

>I am looking for information and sources for high quality plywood
>approximately 3/8" thick to be used for small box building. Any info
>regarding what's available and what makes good plywood would be GREATLY
>appreciated! Thanks in advance.




From VDDX29A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:14 EST 1997
Article: 183414 of rec.woodworking
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From: VDDX29A@prodigy.com (Mr. Tom Meadows)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworking Show KCMO
Date: 11 Feb 1997 11:39:55 GMT
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We are planing to make the Woodworking Show in Kansas City, this 
weekend. Was wondering if any one from the news group was going to be 
there also. Maybe we could hook up and share a few sawdust story's.

Thanks

Tom Meadows
Creative Works Custom Woodworking
Joplin MO



From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:15 EST 1997
Article: 183415 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:59:07 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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If you have a problem with delamination and you want to fix it right I
would use a little lacquer thinner in the problem area to expose
enough of it to do the necessary clean up of any foreign material and
give myself some room to work. Keep a wedge in place to let air in and
dry off. When dry use contact cement on both surfaces allowing time to
dry. Apply a second coat also allowing time to dry. Press the pieces
back together, use a scrap of 2x4 and a hammer to ensure you have good
contact.. Like someone alrady mentioned you needs two coats for best
results.

Trevor

ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman) wrote:

>John Paquay (jep@physics.purdue.edu) wrote:
>: In article <5d7jb0$7qr@news.paonline.com>, jlevin@nospam.paonline.com says...
>: >
>: >
>: >
>: >Better and/or faster is good. Come to think of it, I wonder whether a hot iron 
>: >over the delaminated section would work on old contact cement. I know it works 
>: >for new cement, but haven't tried it with old cement. That would be easiest of 
>: >all, if it works.
>: >

>: Provided that the surfaces haven't been fouled by dirt, grease, etc.,
>: this method usually does work, and it's a whole lot easier than tearing
>: up a section of laminate big enough to work new cement into.  But if
>: the iron doesn't work, your best solution would be to inject some
>: Titebond II into the lifted area and clamp it down tight overnight... that's
>: assuming, of course, that the lifting area is near an edge.

>: Note that the hot iron method will melt the adhesive, but you should
>: apply pressure to the area while it cools to make sure it the adhesive
>: sets again as it should.  A cool, damp rag or towel works well for this,
>: and speeds the cooling.

>: -- 
>: John Paquay
>: jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
>: http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
>: -----------------------
>: I know you believe you understand what you think I meant.
>: But I'm not sure you realize that what you thought you heard
>: is not what I said...

>Harvey Freeman wrote on Sunday Feb. 8, 1997  ac258@chebucto.ns.ca

>The original post does not say if the delaminated area is at an edge.  If 
>it is in the middle of the sheet then none of the above work except maybe 
>the iron if you do not over heat and blister the laminate.  A carpenter 
>told me that he would drill a hole into the air bubble from the bottom 
>without drilling into the plastic laminate.  This is easy with a precise 
>depth gauge on the drill.  Use one of the spray contact cements which 
>comes with a thin plastic tube addition for the nozzle to put cement into 
>the air bubble.  Wait the required time and weight down the spot until cured.

>Personally, I only had new work delaminate once and that was my first job 
>because I read the directions and followed them too closely.  Now I put 
>TWO coats of cement on the base material and one on the plastic 
>laminate.  The first coat is actually a sealer because too much soaks 
>into the material.

>--
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
>123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
>Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
>Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
>______________________________________________________________________________

>Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
>______________________________________________________________________________




From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:16 EST 1997
Article: 183416 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:05:20 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <5dpn3k$3rf@camel5.mindspring.com>
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I'd glue and screw the edging on. The glue should be enough of a seal.
I'd use plenty of clamps to get a tight fit. You can seal all surfaces
except those that get glue before assembly. Some linseed oil brings
oak up to a nice finish.

Trevor


Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net> wrote:


>  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
>is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
>would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
>oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
>putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
>edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
> Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

>T.I.A.

>Scott





From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:18 EST 1997
Article: 183417 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending Formica
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:09:13 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <5dpnat$3rf@camel5.mindspring.com>
References: <32F40864.5AACBC76@carib-link.net> <19970210044701.XAA18509@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I didn't have this sophisticated equipment so I took a belt sander to
the back side of the formica reducing the thickness in the bend area
accordingly. With that method and a heat gun I made out alright. I
wasn't working with super tight radaii.

Trevor


stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr) wrote:

><<What are the methods used for bending this laminate ?
>Does it require special heating eq ?>>

>Postforming grade DHPL must be heated to a minimum of 315 degrees F to
>postform it.  Again, this is a minimum.  The temperature range for
>postforming is usually between 315 degrees F and 340 degrees F. 
>Temperature for postforming will depend on line speed if automated, color
>of the laminate, and the moisture content of the laminate.

>On some occasions the laminate can be bent at lower temperatures without
>breaking or cracking, but you will not remove the memory from the HPL. 
>With memory left in the HPL, there will be constant stress on the
>adhesive, which could lead to an edge lift.

>You can get 315 degrees F and 325 degrees F Tempilaq to help determine if
>the HPL has reached the proper temperature for postforming.

>There are manual postforming machines.  Some better than others.  I have
>also seen home made formers, but they do not perform a tight wrap, which
>leaves a void on the nose, the entire length of the top.

>If you have any more questions, let me know.

>Sticky Fingers




From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:19 EST 1997
Article: 183418 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue or Screws for outdoors project?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:17:08 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 20
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I'd use stainless screws and weather tite glue that's water resistant.

Trevor.

Russ Evans <RFEvans@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Excuse me if this is FAQ material, but I am new to the NG and new to the
>hobby. I have built a couple of small projects for the house (a step
>stool and a magazine rack) using hand tools. These projects use mortise
>and tenon, and dovetail joints but no screws. I would like to build a
>potting/display stand for my Bonsai plants outside. It will be about
>five feet high and have three shelves and a roof. I intend to use
>pressure treated pine since it will be in the weather. Now... My
>question (finally) is; will glued joints hold up out in the weather? Or
>will the environmental conditions destroy them? Should I use screws in
>this project to keep things together? Any advice will be appreciated.

>Russ




From dilbert1@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:20 EST 1997
Article: 183419 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum problems.. Physics lesson???
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:22:48 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <5dpo7v$5n6@camel2.mindspring.com>
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Shop vacs get clogged up with dust real quick and stop sucking. They
make a "dust collector" for woodworkers that is designed for the job.
You might want tolook for someone who is upgrading their system and
wants to sell their unit reasonably (like myself). I have the basic
1hp double bag unit and would like to upgrade to 2hp. For the
woodworker they are the only way to go.

Trevor

Bill Kapinski <wilythek@netnet.net> wrote:

>I am new to woodworking and am having some problems with saw dust
>removal. I have a mitre saw and a belt sander with dust ports and bags. 
>If I use the bags I collect about 30% of the sawdust generated. Thinking
>if I hooked up my shopvac to the ports I'd get most of the dust...
>Wrong!!! It seems that when I power up the shopvac I get less than if I
>use just the bags. 

>I'm confused...

>Lately I've hooked up the vac but only turn it on occasionaly, letting
>the sawdust blow into the hose for a while before I turn on the vac.

>Any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

>Bill K.




From jcondran@atcon.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:21 EST 1997
Article: 183420 of rec.woodworking
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From: jcondran@atcon.com (JOHN CONDRAN)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: QUESTION ABOUT BUILDING A DECK
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:42:28 GMT
Organization: Auracom Internet Services
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mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide) wrote:

>"jamesc" <jamesc@ultranet.nh.com> wrote:

>;I live in NH.  What type of material (wood, etc.) should I use and
>why?

>;Thanks in advance,
>;Jim
>I need more info before I can render an opinion ,two questions, how
>big is this boat and what kind of weather conditions are you going to
>use it in ?                              mjh

Which deck is it?  Is it the weather deck, the quarterdeck ,or the
poopdeck 

jc



From rodwsheets@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:22 EST 1997
Article: 183421 of rec.woodworking
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From: rodwsheets@aol.com (RodWSheets)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any help on using Shop vac as a Dust coll
Date: 11 Feb 1997 12:46:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Check with Penn State for connectors of different sizes. They should have
what you need. Their numbers are (800)377-7297 Orders and (800)656-4-SOS
for Technical Support.


Rodney Sheets(RodWSheets@aol.com)


From tomntina@odyssee.net Sat Feb 15 11:39:23 EST 1997
Article: 183422 of rec.woodworking
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From: tomntina@odyssee.net (Tom J.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Excalibur Scrollsaw parts in Canada--HELP
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 02:18:59 GMT
Organization: Odyssee Internet
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I am in need of a bushing set and a couple of bearings for my
Excalibur Scrollsaw.  I am looking for the address, phone # etc. of
any suppiers in Canada, preferably in Montreal area.

Any leads would be appriciated.

Please reply by E-Mail as I don't always get to read the whole news
group post.

Thanks

Tom J.
E-mail tomntina@odyssee.net





From kevin_holohan@3mail.3com.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:24 EST 1997
Article: 183423 of rec.woodworking
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From: kevin holohan <kevin_holohan@3mail.3com.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:51:53 +0000
Organization: 3Com PDD, Hemel Hempstead, UK
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Andrew Tune wrote:
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
> the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.
> 
> Can anyone point to a reputable British firm that provides a mail-order
> service for woodworking tools (and possibly hardware)?  Preferably
> (though not essentially) on the Internet...
> 
> Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
> intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be
> cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
> compare.
> 
> Andrew.
> --
> Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
> Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
> Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
> Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
>               "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"
G'day Andy

One of the best mail order tool companies in the UK is Axminster Power
Tools. Don't be put off by the name as they do a complete list of all
woodworking tools. Unfortunately they are not on the WWW.

Their address is:

Axminster Power Tools
Millway Rise Industrial Estate
Axminster
Devon
EX13 5HU

Tel +44 1297 33656.

Craft Supplies also have a mail order service, and are perhaps better
known for timber, and for turning in particular. Their address is:

Craft Supplies Ltd
The Mill 
Millers Dale 
Buxton 
Derbyshire
SK17 8SN

Tel +44 1298 871636

Good Luck!

Kevin

PS These are my opinions and not those of my employer


From jmartin@novagate.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:24 EST 1997
Article: 183424 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim <jmartin@novagate.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:04:04 -0800
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <33009874.39D7@novagate.com>
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Before I buy my first router I was wondering if anybody could give
reasons for the variable speed function found on some models.  All I can
think is that it is to slow the router down to avoid burning some
materials.  Is this correct?  Are there other reasons?

Thanks in advance

Jim Martin
jmartin@novagate.com


From doors@atl.mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:25 EST 1997
Article: 183425 of rec.woodworking
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From: doors@atl.mindspring.com (raymond r hearn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:01:36 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <5dpqv1$v6s@camel2.mindspring.com>
References: <19970211062401.BAA14450@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: doors@atl.mindspring.com
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Grizzley will send you a catalog, all you have to do is call and ask
1-800-523-4777
OleRay

>Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
>tools from Jet or Grizzly? In particular I'm looking for
>drill presses. There's lots of Delta and other brands in
>the catalogs I get, but no Jet or Grizzly.

>Thanks in advance!

>Andrew Robinson
>Andrew Robinson
>---
>Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine alone and do not represent the views of America Online




From aldenm@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:26 EST 1997
Article: 183426 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alden Miller <aldenm@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Leigh D3 vs D4
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:11:14 -0800
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <33009A22.737C@erols.com>
References: <32FF9175.46A5@cris.com>
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Norm Covey wrote:
> 
> I have just received an order from Trend-Lines on a Leigh 24" Dovetail
> Jig. I had expected a D4 but received a D3. What is the difference in
> the D3 and D4. I know the D4 is about the same money (339.00), should I
> send it back.
> 
> BTW, when I opened the box, part rained out every where. Someone else
> had the got it before I got it and just dumped everything back in. I'm
> nor real happy with Trend-Lines right now.
> 
> Anyway, if you can help with the D3 vs D4 question I would appreciate
> it.
> --
> Norm Covey
> ncovey@cris.com
> Houston, TX


Norm, Send it back!  I have a frankensteined Leigh D3 and love it.  By
that I mean at the last woodworking show I spent $80.00 getting all the
upgrades I needed to make my D3 into a D4.  The updates were new gauges,
new side stops and a new manual.  The new gauges are much easier to read
and the new side stops help position the boards in the jig just that
much better.  I did not get the longer arms for the jig as I do not
intend to get the MMT attachment.
-- 
Alden Miller

aldenm@erols.com


From mike2m@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:27 EST 1997
Article: 183427 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike2m@pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:19:43 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 13
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verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender) wrote:

>Note so many asking about a router table and as I have plans posted on
>my home page please take a look.  You don't need a lot of expense
>outside of a proper base for your router to use same which can be
>built out of waste material and contains room to hold most of your
>router bits.  Also have a beautiful safty switch which I stole from
>another idea but it's not listed.

>Verne
Verne you forgot to post your URL for your site.
Mike



From willyj@sunherald.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:39:28 EST 1997
Article: 183428 of rec.woodworking
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From: willyj@sunherald.infi.net (Will Jordan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Scroll Saw
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 07:38:26 -0600
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 Are there comments on the Delta Scroll Saw Model 40-530?  Can the plain
end blades be changed quickly? Thanks Will Jordan


From rnaro@devtools.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:29 EST 1997
Article: 183429 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rick Naro" <rnaro@devtools.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for a floating raft
Date: 11 Feb 1997 13:32:33 GMT
Organization: Paradigm Systems
Lines: 8
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183429

I need to build a small floating raft to anchor in a lake and would be much
better off if I could find some plans for building one.  Nothing very
fancy, just to be used as a swimming platform for kids.  If anyone has any
leads, I would be very grateful.

Thanks and best regards.

Rick


From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:30 EST 1997
Article: 183430 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw vs TS for cutting thin strips (was ultra thin kerfs)
Date: 7 Feb 1997 16:29:42 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <5dfl9m$bdo@newsb.netnews.att.com>
References: <32f51b65.2040413@news.sccsi.com> <32F60EF6.1C5A@california.com> <5d9dcn$nrq@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com> <1997Feb6.145758.27894@indyvax.iupui.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183430

>
>I'm fairly new at this so maybe I haven't gotten the knack yet (or the 
>blade) for making smooth cuts with my bandsaw.  Is there a consensus that the
>bandsaw is the tool of choice for cutting multiple thin strips of wood for
>laminating projects?  I'd appreciate hearing some discussion on this topic.
>
>Thanks
>
>Lynn Willis
>Indianapolis
>willisl@indyvax.iupui.edu
>

I'm no bandsaw expert, but I've been using mine for about a
year now. I find that my best cuts on the BS waste about the
same amount of wood as a good thin kerf blade (Forrest WWII)
on the TS. The bandsaw is usually less hassle (set up time),
and quicker for wider boards than the TS. Resawing wide boards
(where you're flipping the board end for end and making multiple
passes)
on the TS usually leaves a surface that needs to be planed the
same as the BS. 

If the boards you're resawing aren't too thick (~<2"), I'd
do them on the TS. Clamp a short stop block or a featherboard
to the left of the blade to give you the correct width strip 
or make a pencil mark on the TS top. 
Rip a strip, then move the fence to line up
with the  stop/pencil mark. Use the appropriate push sticks, push
blocks to make the rips. I have one that rides on the fence that
lets me safely make rips to about 1/2".

With a good blade you shouldn't have to plane the strips.

If your doing wide strips, then I think the BS is better, but 
you'll need to plan for the waste and run them though a planer
(or hand plane them). On the powered planer, you'll probably 
want to stick the strips to a carrier board and then run them
through the planer. DOuble sided carpet tape works well for
me. I heard a talk by an expert woodworker who makes his own
veneer and does lots of lamination work and he uses a BS
and a stationary sander.

Hope this helps.

Carl


-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:31 EST 1997
Article: 183431 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop Smith
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:38:06 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32FF6B0E.5D55@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
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EClark2918 wrote:
> 
> I would like to know if Shop Smith has a web page on internet.  Anyone
> know?

There's the Shop Smith User group at 
http://www.cris.com/~Jwirtz/ssug

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:32 EST 1997
Article: 183432 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 14:45:09 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 27
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183432

Kevin wrote:
> 
> ..looking to get some clamps for:
> - glueing up panels
> - assembling
> 


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:33 EST 1997
Article: 183433 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:08:41 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Eric Phillips wrote:
> 
> jonsky@psalm23.eng.sun.com wrote:
> > In article <5dcud0$ofl@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> you write:
> > >Isn't Formosa just a little bit south of Taiwan?
> > No, Formosa was a name called by Portuguese centuries ago and it's
> > now a nickname of Taiwan.
> 
> I thought formosa was the name of a tree we have down here in the
> south?  Or is formosa sheet material used for laminating countertops?
> 
Well, at least this thread is getting a little bit of wood in it :-)

Mimosa is the name of a tree we have "down here in the south".  It
grows very quickly, has beautiful feather-like flowers (in mid-May)
and is practically useless to woodworkers (or fireplace owners)
because the wood is sooooo wet.  Pretty, though.

Ob.woodworking:  I put the first coat of finish on a cherry nightstand
yesterday.  It's the one from Thos. Moser's book on Shaker furniture.
I'm using Formby's "Tung Oil Finish".  It's very thin but builds
surprisingly fast.  I love working with cherry!

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu

P.S.  Formosa is another name for Taiwan


From ashenfyre@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:33 EST 1997
Article: 183434 of rec.woodworking
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From: ashenfyre@aol.com (Ashenfyre)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Casket plans
Date: 11 Feb 1997 13:50:09 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
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I knew a guy in San Diego who was going to build a casket and fill it with
cigarette butts.   He was going to title it "Just Another Nail"   I don't
think he ever got to it though.  The need for expense tends to lead us to
more practical affairs.


From ssweeney@sanders.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:34 EST 1997
Article: 183435 of rec.woodworking
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From: Skye Sweeney <ssweeney@sanders.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Q: San Diego woodworking
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:49:56 -0500
Organization: Lockheed Sanders, Inc.
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Going to San Diego for a week starting 2/17. Are there any
interesting stores or wood yards in the area?

What is the native wood that I might consider buying?

Respond by ng or email.

Thanks.

-Skye Sweeney


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:35 EST 1997
Article: 183436 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: jointer clamps?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:26:16 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32FF9278.61F5@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
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Mayfilm wrote:
> 
> I saw in the Eagle America catalogue Jointer clamps. I can't afford a real
> jointer right now. Does anyone have any experience with these clamps. I'm
> building a table and the top needs to have jointed 5/4 red oak. I'm
> wondering if these clamps do a good job on a table saw.

I have a set of the Jointer Clamps.  They work quite well.  I try to
keep
a piece of 6" x 8' plywood around with the clamps attached.  Don't
forget
to run the board through again after you've got both sides straight 
because the first cut is not quite perpendicular to the face of the
board (because of the thickness of the clamp).

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu


From peterl@tone.whoi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:36 EST 1997
Article: 183437 of rec.woodworking
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From: peterl@tone.whoi.edu (Peter Lemmond)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: 11 Feb 1997 13:30:39 GMT
Organization: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Lines: 26
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Message-ID: <5dps9v$odb1@dilbert.whoi.edu>
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In article <5dp6f8$fq8@usenetz1.news.prodigy.com>, WLSM17A@prodigy.com (Wendell Diggs) writes:

>Drew Diaz <DDEdge@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>>Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte to this medium.
>>
>>basically, I'll never have the time to build the workbench I want & am 
>>in the market for a ready made unit.
>>
>>Any suggestions???
>
>The workbench is probably the best tool you will ever buy, and also one
>of the most expensive.  Buy a good stable and HEAVY bench and make
>sure the vises are sound and the bench dogs can be replaced with wooden
>ones.  Good benches can be ordered through Garrett Wade and Woodcraft
>Supply Company but be sure to take out your credit card.
>

Expensive? Sure, maybe. But compare the cost of a good quality bench
(maybe $2,000 for a good sized Ulima?) to the cost of the PC you are
using to read rec.wordworking! Remember that your expensive bench will
give you a lifetime of use, compared to 3-5 years for most computer junk.

-Peter





From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:37 EST 1997
Article: 183438 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:49:35 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183438

It changes up with my mood and level of energy.  My wife NEVER rags me
about it. At least I'm home and see can interrupt me if she needs to. Of
course she sees little of me when I'm in the shop.
When the mood strikes it seems that it last for about 6 months at a
strech. Durring that time I usually hit the shop (on avg.) 3 nights a
week for about (avg) 3 hours. On the weekends MANY a day up to 12 hours.
I'll get started about 7:30 in the AM and the next thing I know it's
8:00PM, I'm tired and wondering what happend, like WOW, I just came out
of some deep trance or something.  I LOVE IT - I just get totally
consumed and know nothing of the world but what's happening in my shop.
 
You need two lists of projects. One for your wife and one for you. Ask
her to set priorities on the things that she wants and mix them in with
the things that you want to make. I'm lucky in that my wife and I have
many items in common that we desire to have made. We have somewhat of a
different priority list but she understands that I must also derive a
great deal of pleasure from my projects - or why else would I do them.
This is just a release and a great pleasure, not a JOB (LUCKY ME !!!)


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:38 EST 1997
Article: 183439 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:00:12 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <33007B6C.7B97@sadust.hill.com>
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If you were into boats you'd know this subject well. On sail boats the
mast (the item the sails are flown on) are also known as 'SPARs'. When
putting a finish on a boat there are a lot of areas that are exposed to
the sun and UV rays. The UV rays break down the finish and then into the
decking/spars. Boaters don't have a lot of time to put on 10 or 15 coats
of very thin finishes. SPAR varnish is a HIGH-BUILD finish. This means
that each coat builds on the previous coat very fast. Putting on two or
three coats of this type of finish builds a very think layer of varnish
with minimum numer of layers. Thus reducing the total amout of time
involed with the finish work and still providing good protection from
UV.

You can use this finish almost anywhere you would use any other varnish.
You can find it at your local boat store.


From YXFX27A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:39 EST 1997
Article: 183440 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.207.105.50!prodigy.com!usenet
From: YXFX27A@prodigy.com (Jimmie Motto)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gazebo Plans?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 13:55:34 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 11
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <5dptom$196m@usenetz1.news.prodigy.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183440

P McCarthy <pmccarthy@highway1.com> wrote:
>
>I am looking for plans, photographs etc. for a gazebo  that can be
>screened. Can anyone help me out? Or is there another news news group
>where  this request might be more appropriate?
  try www.datasat.com/kloter/gazebo10.html
 this is kloter farms gazebos. I am not affiliated, I just ran a search 
>from  yahoo or altavista, I forget which, and came up with several sites. 

 jim 



From jwhis@busprod.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:39 EST 1997
Article: 183441 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FC9414.3143@mail.busprod.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:56:20 -0600
From: Jim Whisenhunt <jwhis@mail.busprod.com>
Reply-To: jwhis@busprod.com
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notty Pine problem
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183441

Steven Cavanaugh wrote:
> 
> I hope some one can help me with the following finishing problem.
> 
> Customer has a set of windows made of notty pine, they have painted them with latex
> white paint, of course in less then a year the notts have come right through as dark
> brown spots.
> 
> It is my understanding that if one has fresh wood, using shelac ( less then one year
> old) and coating the nots, this will not happen.
> 
> With out trying to strip the latex paint, is there any way of stopping this problem.
> 
> Would a coat of varathane, followed by a oil based paint put an end to this problem by
> chance.
> 
> Any ideas would be welcome.
touch up those spots with kilz. not the kilzII


From jwhis@busprod.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:41 EST 1997
Article: 183442 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <32FFE329.7B32@mail.busprod.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:10:33 -0600
From: Jim Whisenhunt <jwhis@mail.busprod.com>
Reply-To: jwhis@busprod.com
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1-1/2 HP Router or Laminate Trimmer?
References: <33007fda.7313436@nntp.best.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183442

John Straffin wrote:
> 
> I have a (soon to be table mounted) 3-1/4 HP Freud FT2000E and was
> wondering what to get for hand-held work.  A laminate trimmer looks
> much easier to handle and get in small places (and is cheaper), but
> would it leave too much of a 'power gap' between itself and the Freud?
> 
> - John C. Straffin
> straffin@evolveinc.com
John I have Abig p.c.router and a 1 1/2 p.c. for smaller hand held work
you will not be happy with a laminate trimmer ( they really are for
trimming)
hope this helps
jim


From paul_tackowiak@ccmail.bms.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:41 EST 1997
Article: 183443 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Tackowiak <paul_tackowiak@ccmail.bms.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Casket plans
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:27:36 -0800
Organization: bms.com
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> Will have to keep the project secret from my wife. She'd probably kill > me!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Tom D

But won't you look nice with a candy dish and flowers over your head?


From jshear@cray.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:43 EST 1997
Article: 183445 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:57:07 -0600
Organization: Cray Research a division of Silicon Graphics, Inc.
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Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
left of the blade.
Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.
-- 
John Shear		Cray Research, A Silicon Graphics Company
jshear@cray.com		Chippewa Falls, WI


From elwood140@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:43 EST 1997
Article: 183446 of rec.woodworking
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From: elwood140@aol.com (Elwood140)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:07:35 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I must add that my own experience with CMT in Florida has been nothing but
positive.  The products I have received from them and the customer service
they provided have both been exemplary.  I cannot detect any quality
differences between the products made in Italy and the USA-produced ones.
Elwood
There ain't no 'free'.


From grizzlytec@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:44 EST 1997
Article: 183447 of rec.woodworking
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From: grizzlytec@aol.com (GrizzlyTec)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:16:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183447

<<Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
tools from Jet or Grizzly? In particular I'm looking for
drill presses. There's lots of Delta and other brands in
the catalogs I get, but no Jet or Grizzly.

Thanks in advance!>>

I would be glad to send you ours. Please supply name and address and I'll
have one sent pronto. Please specify woodworking, metalworking, or both.

Thanks!


Bill Crofutt
Manager, Quality Control
Grizzly Imports, Inc.


From mccarthy@hndymn.zko.dec.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:45 EST 1997
Article: 183448 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Brian J. McCarthy" <mccarthy@hndymn.zko.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handyclub of America
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 06:26:39 -0400
Organization: Core Tech. Group/ C/C++ Compilers & Run Time
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3300111F.4B356A0F@hndymn.zko.dec.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183448

wtrider@earthlink.net wrote:
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Handyman Club of America and what type of
> organization is behind it?

Previous postings on this have gone down the line that "its a waste 
of money".    The level of help was put at the level of help given 
by the show "Home bodies" - which is useless for most people who
read this newsgroup.

Are they still offering 'free trial tools' or something like that?  If
so, don't expect anything.  

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian J. McCarthy                  | mailto:mccarthy@hndymn.zko.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corp. Nashua, NH | DEC CRTL/DEC C++ Class Libraries
-----------------------------------------------------------------------


From jshear@cray.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:46 EST 1997
Article: 183449 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 6" Motorized Jointer (YUCK!)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:48:09 -0600
Organization: Cray Research a division of Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <330086A9.41C6@cray.com>
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Frank Buercklin wrote:
> 
> Okay, I'm finally going to admit it so no one else will make the same
> mistake as I did.
> 
> About a year a go, I bought the Delta 6" Motorized Jointer from Home
> Depot.  It was about $150 cheaper than the Next one up.  I thought,
> "great, I can save some money here."
> 
> ...
> 
> So if you are considering buying it, DON'T!!  It's a waste of money based
> on my experience.

So, is the Delta 6" Deluxe jointer the next one up that might be more
acceptable?

-- 
John Shear		Cray Research, A Silicon Graphics Company
jshear@cray.com		Chippewa Falls, WI


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:47 EST 1997
Article: 183450 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ADULTS ONLY- Check this out!                                                                        (fprEpE)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:35:16 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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hey asshole - get the fuck off this newsgroup with that shit!


From bml@gvmail.lucent.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:48 EST 1997
Article: 183451 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Leonard <bml@gvmail.lucent.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:33:26 -0600
Organization: Lucent Techologies
Lines: 7
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Two comments on all of this "how often..." stuff:

	1 - woodus interruptus

	2 - always (always!) use protection

Bill Leonard


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:49 EST 1997
Article: 183452 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!NEWS!not-for-mail
From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Message-ID: <33008A3A.372@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:03:22 -0600
References: <19970211062401.BAA14450@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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Awrobinson wrote:
> 
> Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
> tools from Jet or Grizzly? In particular I'm looking for
> drill presses. There's lots of Delta and other brands in
> the catalogs I get, but no Jet or Grizzly.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Andrew Robinson
> Andrew Robinson
> ---
> Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine alone and do not represent the views of America Online

Tool Crib for JET - 18003583096



From fico7@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:49 EST 1997
Article: 183453 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ncar!news-out.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: fico7@aol.com (Fico7)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HAND PAINTED WOOD SHAPES
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:05:47 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 12
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183453

I am trying to locate the manufacturer who produces hand painted wood
cut-outs.
There is a company in Brooklyn, NY called AMBIDEXTROUS, INC. that accents
their products with these shapes i.e. diaries, jewelry boxes, pencil
toppers, but unfortunately they will not provide me with the name of the
manufacturer nor will they sell these shapes separately to me.  Any
information regarding the above would be gratefully appreciated.  Please
e-mail at FICO7 @aol.com

Thanking you in advance,
Cynthia Milite
I Need A Gift


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:39:50 EST 1997
Article: 183454 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:58:45 GMT
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Lines: 20
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[7889]
Message-ID: <5dq4vl$gfs@maze.dpo.uab.edu>
References: <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> 
 <19970209014101.UAA16371@ladder01.news.aol.com> 
 <5dnf4p$3g1q@indus.unm.edu>  <5dp499$g85@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183454

In article <5dp499$g85@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com>
bugs@bunny.com (Stev) writes:

> Thats interesting. Probably is the edu in your address. For those of 
> us with regular isps tho, we do get a lot of junk and it is irritating.
> I actually received some junk that included a threat that if I flamed
> the poster in any way, he would email bomb me and see that my address
> was given to all sorts of shady net dealers. These people are parasites
> imo.

I went ahead and flamed one of these guys, reminding him of the
criminal nature of his threats: blackmail, libel and/or slander.  No
problem.


David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From elwood140@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:51 EST 1997
Article: 183455 of rec.woodworking
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From: elwood140@aol.com (Elwood140)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: Delta Shaper
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:12:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <19970211151200.KAA27420@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183455

I have a little-used Delta model 43-140 shaper on a mobile base  that I'd
sell for $200 fob.  Included are the the accessory holddowns and a few
cutters.
Elwood
There ain't no 'free'.


From bobmethelis@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:52 EST 1997
Article: 183456 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobmethelis@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwood Grading?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:10:37 GMT
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explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2) wrote:

>Well, this may be a dumb question, but one that I haven't seen posted in a
>while. Can anyone give us a comprehensive review of the wood grading
>system and what is allowed for each grade? i.e.- FAS, S4S, S2S, Select,
>1C, etc.

The National Hardwood Lumber Association has a color brochure
available that describes hardwood grading.  Essentially, the system is
based on usable (no knots, chips, etc) wood per board.  It cost about
$4.  Their number is 901-377-1818.  I received mine by return mail in
2 days!
--
Bob Methelis
(IRC as Bob-in-NJ)
"He would be wood if he could,
but he's knot"



From cdub@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:54 EST 1997
Article: 183457 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:31:11 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <5do8u8$g91@fido.asd.sgi.com>,
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) wrote:
>
>
>   I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
> wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
> premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other
than
> that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what
the
> difference really is?
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Mike McDonald
>   mikemac@engr.sgi.com
>

The most familiar plywood grading system uses the letters A, B, and C to
denote veneer quality, where A is the best, i.e., no or nearly no defects
or voids. Compare the AB and BC sheets (denoting the veneers on both
sides) sold by your friendly, apparently quite poetic, dealer.

Does it matter?  Depends on how you arrange the pieces.  Example -- take
some cheap BC yellow pine ply, and rip it into 2" wide strips.	Laminate
the strips 2" face to 2" face, butcher-block style.  Pack the exposed
voids with plastic wood when cured and level the plank with a belt sander
(don't plane, this'll dull the blade VERY quickly!).  Apply Danish oil
and tell me this isn't the prettiest table top you've ever seen!

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From twc@fc.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:55 EST 1997
Article: 183458 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Christian <twc@fc.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:03:02 -0700
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company
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> Before I buy my first router I was wondering if anybody could give
> reasons for the variable speed function found on some models.  All I can
> think is that it is to slow the router down to avoid burning some
> materials.  Is this correct?  Are there other reasons?

	Being able to reduce the tangential velocity of large,
	panel-forming (and other) bits might be one reason.  In
	general that's why shapers have high and low speeds, too.

	My router is a variable speed model, but I rarely use it.
	Then again, I tend to use the shaper for cuts where I
	might be inclined to reduce the speed.

					Tom

======================================================================
Tom Christian					E-Mail:	twc@fc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Laboratories			 Phone:	(970) 229-3531
External Research Program			   FAX:	(970) 229-6198
3404 East Harmony Road
Fort Collins, CO 80525-9599


From agbob@execpc.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:56 EST 1997
Article: 183459 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bob Daun" <agbob@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP me finish my window,door,&baseboard trim????
Date: 11 Feb 1997 16:27:43 GMT
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Here is my $0.02 worth.

1.  I would finish all wood work before reapplying.  
2.  Regarding finish, this is a matter of taste but what I would do, is
find a light stain that you like.  Sand well a portion of the back of one
of the boards to use as a test system.  In other words, sand a portion of a
base board for a foot or two and use this to check out your stain and final
finish.  That way if you don't like it, you haven't messed up something you
have already cleaned.
3.  I prefer a water based polyurethane for the final finish.  It dries
fast, has little or no odor, and allows you to apply three a four coats a
day if you so desire.  Also, the water cleanup of brushes is convenient.  I
normally apply about three coats to give a nice finish.  I sand in between
coats with 220 grit sandpaper (lightly, just enough to remove minor bumps
of finish).
4.  When reapplying, you need to find where your studs under the wallboard
are.  If you can't find them easily, get a stud finder (about $15) at a
hardware store.  Nail baseboards with nails long enough to go into studs. 
Pre drill through the oak to prevent splitting.  Only drive finishing nails
to near the surface.  Finish with a nail set.  With the nail set, drive the
nail slightly (1/16-3/32 inches approx.)  You can then use a putty stick
that matches your final finish to hide the holes.
5.  Don't try to get every nick and dent out.  If you use a dye type stain,
nicks and dents are not as noticeable as with a pigment based stain.  The
dye type stains are also called aniline stains and are usually not
available at paint/hardware stores.  I order from one of the Woodworker
Supply type catalogs.  They come as a powder (Usually cost between 5 and 7
dollars an ounce and an ounce makes a quart of finished stain.



From paul@Teknetix.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:56 EST 1997
Article: 183460 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Celley <paul@Teknetix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:31:22 -0600
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John,

It doesn't take much effort at all to move the Unifence to the left of
the blade. Lower the blade, slide the fence over, losen two large wing
screws, slide the fence out turn it around and mount on the other side
of the glide. 

Paul 

-- 
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:57 EST 1997
Article: 183461 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 15:40:28 GMT
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Well, you're partly right. Speed control is also to slow down larger bits.
At a given speed, a larger diameter bit will have a much higher cutter
speed than a small bit. Rabbeting bits, panel raising bits, large profile
bits, all can stand to be slowed down some with speed control. Just to
give you an example,  a 1/4" bit spinning at 22,000 RPM has a linear cut
speed of  Pi x D x RPM / 60 = 288 inches/sec
                                                    3.1416 x .25 x 22,000
/ 60 =288

A 1" dia bit at same speed would yield: 1150 inches/sec.

You can see what would happen for 2" diameter, etc. It is a linear
relationship, if you  double the bit diameter, you double the cutter speed
on the wood.


From jiml@neosoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:58 EST 1997
Article: 183462 of rec.woodworking
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From: jiml@neosoft.com (Jim Ledbetter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for News Group Split
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:32:29 UNDEFINED
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In article <32fa3300.12337003@news.mindspring.com> keithhill_@_mindspring.com (remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam)  (Keith) writes:
>From: keithhill_@_mindspring.com (remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam)  (Keith)

>I second the motion as well! Here are some suggestions that I see;

>This group is based as rec (recreational). I see it better as an Alt. Hierarchy,
>which follows:

I don't see the value of moving to ALT. hierarchy.  If having your profession 
lumped in with the REC group bothers you, I'd think being lumped in with 
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.NukeTheUnbornGayWhalesForJesus and such 
would be at least as offensive.

>Alt.Woodworking
>Alt.Woodworking.Carpentry
>Alt.Woodworking.Carpentry.Trim
>Alt.Woodworking.General
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.d
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.woodturning
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.Misc.
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.Finishing
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.Handtools
>Alt.Woodworking.Recreational.Power-tools
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.d
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Misc.
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Manufacturing
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Manufacturing.Software
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Finishing
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Power-tools
>Alt.Woodworking.Professional.Services-offered

>Etc,Etc.... You get the picture.

Maybe I a simpleton...

If we've got to split, how about

rec.woodworking.tools	
rec.woodworking.technique    
rec.woodworking.d

I'd prefer they all be moderated.  That will at least eliminate the "Make a 
million in thrity minutes" posts.  Maybe even the "Which {TS, router, etc} for 
a newbie" posts, by referring them politely to the FAQs and deja news.  It 
would also help prevent needless crossposting.

>As a Professional in the manufacturing Industry, we have to wade through
>literally hundreds of posts that are eating excess bandwidth because this group
>is not split correctly, nor does it seem to be monitored as well as it should.
>If the Hierarchy would have been set up correctly from the beginning, we
>wouldn't have the mess we do today.  Any others care to comment? Can't we be
>responsible and utilize the resources we have, instead of wasting them, as well
>as everyone's precious time?

I think the less than useful, repeated posts are a bigger problem than an
inappropriate split.

>Keith

jim


From keithhill_@_mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:39:59 EST 1997
Article: 183463 of rec.woodworking
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From: keithhill_@_mindspring.com (remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam)  (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:39:15 GMT
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:57:07 -0600, "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com> wrote:

>Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
>Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
>the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
>left of the blade.
>Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
>explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
>the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
>side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.

John,

The main reason one would want to be able to use the left side of the table on a
CS is when the blade only tilts 45 degree's to the right, putting you at a
disadvantage when you have an angle to cut opposite (which requires left side
usage).  One of the other examples is when you want to attempt to make Raised
panel cuts, you have to be able to put the fence on the left side of the blade,
running the stock panel vertically (and praying the whole time) between the
fence and blade.

Other than that, there really is no reason to have a fence on the left side.


Sincerely,

Keith

Keith Hill, Project Manager, Forbes & Company
1002 Investment Blvd., Apex, NC. 27502-1954
(919)362-4277/387-7997(Fax)/303-0240(alt-Fax)
 
keithhill @ mindspring.com
www.mindspring.com/~keithhill/


From wayne2@home.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:00 EST 1997
Article: 183464 of rec.woodworking
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From: Wayne Corrie <wayne2@home.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Are old sears tools bad??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:33:29 -0800
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Are all of the old Craftsman wood tools bad?  I know full well that the
new ones are "Crapsman", but what about the stuff made back in the 40's
and 50's??

Wayne Corrie


From jaymar@voyageronline.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:02 EST 1997
Article: 183465 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J.Martin" <jaymar@voyageronline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting threads in wood
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:43:50 -0800
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February 11, 1997

Greetings:

Help!  Several months ago (maybe a couple of years ago), in one of the 
popular woodworking magazines, there was an article on cutting threads in 
wood.  The article discussed the use of all the currently advertised 
tools and techniques.  I subscribe to several of the more popular 
woodworking magazines and I have been trying to find the article, but 
have had no sucess.  It was in either Fine Woodworking, Woodworker's 
Journal, American Woodworker or Today's Woodworker.  I keep all these 
magazines and should be able to locate it but, for some reason, cannot.  
Can someone out there help me.  I'll sincerely appreciate it.

Many thanks,

Joe Martin
jaymar@voyageronline.net


From ktucker@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:03 EST 1997
Article: 183466 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander????
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 16:49:37 GMT
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In article <32FF6ACC.5F3B@qgraph.com>, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:
>I found the Delta 4" belt/6" disc sander at my local Fleet Farm store
>for $99.  Thats a great deal as far as I can tell.  This is a bench top
>and I am wondering if this is enough sander for most uses (vs.
>purchasing a pedistal 6" belt 8 or 9" disc)???
>
>Any advice or experience would be welcome.  Damian
>

Bought one a couple months ago - works great, no problems.  For the 
small-to-medium parts that I need to sand with this thing, it works fine - I 
did not see the reason to invest in one of the large floor models.

BTW - $99 is a great deal - take it.

Kevin


From mustache@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:04 EST 1997
Article: 183467 of rec.woodworking
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From: mustache@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Buying a tablesaw - A newbie's perspective and Questions
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:57:27 GMT
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I've researched this quite a bit & decided on the Jet JWTS-10.  It
costs around $530 and seems nicer than the Delta Contractor Saw.  I
looked at it at Woodworkers Warehouse.  THere is a nice review of saws
at http://www.augusthome.com/tsaw_rev.htm

"Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net> wrote:

>Andrew Patterson wrote:
>> 
>> > Go with the Delta Contractors saw.  I'm not familiar with the "II"
>> series,
>> > but if its anything like my three year old Contractors saw, you'll love
>> it.
>> >  Make sure you buy the "Uni-Fence" and table extension.
>> 
>> I like my Contractors Saw, but to clarify the "II" is a lighter model than
>> the Contractor Saw. I decided it was worth the small amount extra to go
>> with the better model. I also agree, bet the better fence, Unifence or
>> Biesmeyer (I got the Bies.). The have a $50 rebate on those with optional
>> fence for a while more.
>
>
>I'm the originator of this thread... I've pretty much decided to go with
>the Grizzly 1023... Whether I go with the 1023 or the 1023Z is still in
>question, since I'm not sure of that fence... Maybe I'll save my pennies
>now and buy a Unifence or Beisemeyer (sp?) later.  I just can't go wrong
>for the price, and after talking to some of the owners and the customer
>service people on several occasions, I'm convinced that these people are
>top notch.
>
>Your replies are appreciated!  Without the response I've received on
>this thread I couldn't have made my decision as easily.
>
>
>-- 
>===========================================================================
>Michael R. Dow
>Independent Excel Representative
>RTD, Austin, TX
>
>Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
>be charged a $1000 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
>to me - consider this an official notice:
>
>"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
>meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),
>it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment.
>By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
>is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
>whichever is greater, for each violation."
>
>for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm



From ktucker@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:05 EST 1997
Article: 183468 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta router / shaper problems
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 16:53:44 GMT
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In article <01bc16c7$8fa6af60$09a993cf@donscomputer>, "Don" <donda@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
>I am having problems with the simplest of operations. I get much more
>'chatter' than with my old table, which had a much smaller motor. I find
>that I have to apply considerably more force to the wood to move it across
>the bit. I can reduce the chatter by making many shallow passes, but I
>expected to need less passes, rather than more with this machine. I believe
>that my bits are sharp (they are new and carbide tipped).

Taking 1/2" to 3/4" dados out will require at least a couple of passes if you 
want to get any depth.  I have not had any problems with mine making the same 
cuts, but I do have a couple of featherboards as holddowns which seems to 
help.  Just in case, try a couple of different bits - you might have a bent 
shank which is contributing to the chatter and vibration.

Kevin


From jshear@cray.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:06 EST 1997
Article: 183469 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:09:28 -0600
Organization: Cray Research a division of Silicon Graphics, Inc.
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remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam Keith wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:57:07 -0600, "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com> wrote:
> 
> >Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
> >Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
> >the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
> >left of the blade.
> >Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
> >explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
> >the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
> >side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.
> 
> John,
> 
> The main reason one would want to be able to use the left side of the table on a
> CS is when the blade only tilts 45 degree's to the right, putting you at a
> disadvantage when you have an angle to cut opposite (which requires left side
> usage).
> ...
> Sincerely,
> 
> Keith

Ah, I didn't think of that!  Thanks Keith!

-- 
John Shear		Cray Research, A Silicon Graphics Company
jshear@cray.com		Chippewa Falls, WI


From bquan@arf.org Sat Feb 15 11:40:06 EST 1997
Article: 183470 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:01:56 -0600
From: bquan@arf.org
Subject: Baltic Birch - How many layers?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Hello,

  I've been trying to locate some good quality maple (veneered) plywood
for a project. So far a visit to the local HD yielded 4x8 sheets of
baltic birch with ~ 7 layers. My question is what is consider to be
"high" grade ply suitable for cabinetry ? C-1, C-2? i.e. How many layers
should I be looking for?



- Brian

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:07 EST 1997
Article: 183471 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Glennon <mtcowboy@marsweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rottenstone
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:55:09 -0800
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After pumice go to rottenstone, sprinkle on to the surface to be 
finished. Rub surface with grain with a felt block wetted with mineral 
oil or water (I perfer water).

MIke G.
If you widh a reply have the right address on there

Billt wrote:
> 
> What is the correct way to use rottenstone?
> 
> --
> --------------------------------------------------
> If you wish to reply, remove "remove"


From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:08 EST 1997
Article: 183472 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accessories for Bosch 1613evs??????
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:29:26 GMT
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Woodworker's Warehouse sells the collets, micro-adj fence, etc.  Or you
can try The Source in Manasass VA (703) ???-????...they ordered some parts
for mine.


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:09 EST 1997
Article: 183473 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:23:01 GMT
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In article <19970211062401.BAA14450@ladder01.news.aol.com> awrobinson@aol.com (Awrobinson) writes:
>Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
>tools from Jet or Grizzly? In particular I'm looking for
>drill presses. There's lots of Delta and other brands in
>the catalogs I get, but no Jet or Grizzly.

I'm not sure Grizzly is sold by anyone but Grizzly.  (They have a
fairly large catalog.  I don't have their physical address handy.
On the Web, http://www.grizzlyimports.com.)

Tool Crib Of The North sells Jet equipment.  (1-800-358-3096.  I've
placed several orders with them, and am happy with them.  No shipping
on most items for orders over $75.)

So does William Alden.  (1-800-249-8665.  I've never ordered from
them, though.)
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From rcampeau@direct.ca Sat Feb 15 11:40:10 EST 1997
Article: 183474 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rick Campeau" <rcampeau@direct.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Excalibur Scrollsaw parts in Canada--HELP
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:38:25 GMT
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Sommerville Design & Manufacturing Inc.
940 Brock Road
Pickering, Ontario
L1W 2A1

905 - 831 - 4755
800 - 357 - 4118

Rick Campeau
rcampeau@direct.ca


Tom J. <tomntina@odyssee.net> wrote in article
<5dm14g$c@pegasus.odyssee.net>...
> I am in need of a bushing set and a couple of bearings for my
> Excalibur Scrollsaw.  I am looking for the address, phone # etc. of
> any suppiers in Canada, preferably in Montreal area.
> 
> Any leads would be appriciated.
> 
> Please reply by E-Mail as I don't always get to read the whole news
> group post.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom J.
> E-mail tomntina@odyssee.net
> 
> 
> 
> 


From kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:10 EST 1997
Article: 183475 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kent K. Fitzgerald" <kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:55:57 -0500
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997, John W. Shear wrote:
> Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
> explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
> the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
> side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.


When making a beveled rip cut, it's usually considered preferable to have
the blade tilted away from the fence, to avoid trapping the workpiece
between the blade and fence. On saws that tilt the blade to the right
(Delta, General, and most clones), this means moving the fence to the left
of the blade. Powermatic and Sears tilt the blade to the left. Jet swings
both ways, so to speak, depending on model. 

Kent
______________________________________________
Kent Fitzgerald           kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu



From *ljthomas@inreach.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:11 EST 1997
Article: 183476 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3300AF1B.19D4@inreach.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:40:42 -0800
From: Lowell Thomas <*ljthomas@inreach.com>
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Paul Worth wrote:
> 
> EClark2918 wrote:
> >
> > I would like to know if Shop Smith has a web page on internet.  Anyone
> > know?
> 
> There's the Shop Smith User group at
> http://www.cris.com/~Jwirtz/ssug
> 
> --Paul Worth--
> pworth@valdosta.edu

The Shopsmith Home Page is:
http://members.aol.com/shpsmith/index.html

Lowell


From tobias@scripps.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:12 EST 1997
Article: 183477 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peter Tobias <tobias@scripps.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Q: San Diego woodworking
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:54:07 -0800
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Skye Sweeney wrote:
> 
> Going to San Diego for a week starting 2/17. Are there any
> interesting stores or wood yards in the area?
> 
> What is the native wood that I might consider buying?

The two stores that are particularly interesting to me are The 
Woodworker's Store on Clairemont Mesa Blvd. in San Diego and Cut and 
Dried Hardwoods on Cedros Ave. in Solana Beach. Next to Cut and Dried is 
an antiques mall kind of store where I have gotten some ideas for things 
to make. Native woods here are sycamore, oak and various pines. I'm not 
aware that anyone cuts them for lumber. There is a tremendous amount of 
Eucalyptus grown here. Rumor is that it was planted by the Santa Fe 
railroad for ties, but they didn't do their homework and it is a very 
splitty, very hard wood of no use whatsoever for railroad ties. It does 
grow like crazy here, so it is used a lot for landscaping. There are many 
varieties of Eucalyptus, but I don't know which, if any, are good for 
lumber. 

P. Tobias


From rshelton@wegener.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:13 EST 1997
Article: 183478 of rec.woodworking
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From: Rick Shelton <rshelton@wegener.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wooden wheels
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:44:17 -0600
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I want to build a cart for my grill and would like to use wooden wheels,
metal rim or not, instead of the "lawnmower type" metal wheels.  The
cart would not be moved very much, just around the patio while cleaning,
so metal rims may not be needed.  The grill weights ~150 lbs. so the
wheels need to be rather sturdy, though.  Does anyone know of a source
or, better yet, techniques or plans for building wooden wheels (~6-8"
dia.) and mounting them on the cart.  

Thanks 
  
-- 
- Rick Shelton
rshelton@wegener.com


From btallis@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:14 EST 1997
Article: 183479 of rec.woodworking
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From: btallis@cv.hp.com (Brad R Tallis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Slipage!
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:34:48 GMT
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Hello All-

Thanks for all of your help.  I just got off the phone with
Home Depot and they said they would replace it for free.  
I'm thinking about getting the money from it and putting it
toward a Porter brand.  It sounds like most of you recommended
this brand.

Thanks again!

Brad


From tar@norlight.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:15 EST 1997
Article: 183480 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Trevor Richardson" <tar@norlight.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Chair seat marks
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:42:02 GMT
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What si the best way to gouge or put in the seat marks for the butt in the
chair?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  The chair is made out of
oak.



From whting@net1plus.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:15 EST 1997
Article: 183481 of rec.woodworking
From: whting@net1plus.com
Subject: Re: JDS Air-Tech 2000
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
X-User-Info: 38.250.10.2 38.250.10.2   
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what do u mean works great  ?? Can it help filter the mess after sanding ?? After the dust has settled, how can the JDS help the room  ??I will do a lot to get rid of dust but I am not familiar with the machine when it is working. pleas advise



Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com> wrote:>Just received my new model 350 today. This is a 'NEW and IMPROVED'
>version of the old model 350. They still call it the 350 however the
>specs have changed.
>Size: 12 x 24 x 34
>Weight: 62lbs
>Motor/Blower 1/4 hp
>625 CFM unrestricted air
>550 cfm filtered air (old was 350)
>power 2 amps, 155v 210watts
>
>The instructions say that the hooks should be attached to the ceiling
>into the joist of stud. My shop is in the basement and the floor joist
>are on 12" centers. Also I wanted to hang the system 90 degrees to the
>joist because of an I beam. The other deminsion for the hooks called out
>in the directions is 22" (lenth of old 350). The new model needs to have
>the hooks mounted at: 16" by 30".  I placed the hooks 16" on one joist
>and then went down 3 joist (36") to mount the other set. I hung a 6"
>lenght of chain from each hook and opened the eye bolts on the top of
>the filter system and hung it there.
>IT WORKS GREAT!!  The noise is not bad, a bit unususl for me because I
>never have anything on in the shop but my tools. Now when there's no
>tool running the filter system is - I'll get used to it by the weekend
>I'm sure.
>
>The best news is that the NEW 350 cost the same as the OLD 350. I got it
>from Woodcraft.



From godillot@voicenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:16 EST 1997
Article: 183482 of rec.woodworking
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From: john godillot <godillot@voicenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bailey Defiance
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:54:41 -0500
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A guy in the neighorbood walked
into the shop the other
day with a plane he wants to sell.
He tells me it is a Bailey #14
"Defiance" It has a BRASS front
knob that looks original to me,
Also a STRAIGHT
rod threaded into the adjusting cam.
"Bailey Tool Co" is
Cast into the front piece that holds down the blade.
There's an old rough place on the side of the rear
handle long since worn smooth.
Seems to be in good shape.
He'll sell it but thinks it is
worth BIG BUCKS. Someone told him
$400 to $800.
I'd like to buy it for resale.
If anyone has any ideas I'd be glad
to hear them.
please contact,
John 
godillot@voicenet.com
610-489-0667


From horangr@hsd.utc.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:17 EST 1997
Article: 183483 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gregg Horan <horangr@hsd.utc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Avoiding kickback on TS.
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I've just recently started woodworking and was just curious
about technique.

When crosscutting on a table saw, with small chunks of scrap -
for instance just mitering the end of a 1"x2" board - what do 
you do to avoid that little triangle scrap from shooting across
the basement?  I've always been smart enough to realize that it's
going to fire off, so I've never been hit, but it can't be good
for the blade and it's still very unsafe.

Any hints?  Is this not a good idea to be doing in the first place?
("Buy a miter saw" advise will go unheaded since my bank account
is still recouperating....)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~ Gregg P. Horan ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~ horangr@hsd.utc.com ~~~~~~~
~~ hora2999@hgc.edu ~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From tobias@scripps.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:18 EST 1997
Article: 183484 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peter Tobias <tobias@scripps.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:03:28 -0800
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snip, snip

> [Workbenches] Expensive? Sure, maybe. But compare the cost of a good quality bench
> (maybe $2,000 for a good sized Ulima?) to the cost of the PC you are
> using to read rec.wordworking! Remember that your expensive bench will
> give you a lifetime of use, compared to 3-5 years for most computer > > junk.

Too true. How many times have you wanted to put a bullet through your 
workbench when it wouldn't do what you wanted ? They don't have to be so 
expensive. Most people probably wouldn't want my rough workbench, but it 
is made of 2 inch oak planks with a 4x6 for the front edge and it doesn't 
bounce when hammered on. And it will never, ever break ! Cost less than 
$200 at the sawmill.

P. Tobias


From ericp@rtp.ericsson.se Sat Feb 15 11:40:19 EST 1997
Article: 183485 of rec.woodworking
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From: Eric Phillips <ericp@rtp.ericsson.se>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:50:34 -0800
Organization: Ericsson Data Services Americas
Lines: 14
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damian drewek wrote:
> 
> Awrobinson wrote:
> > Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
> > tools from Jet or Grizzly? ...
> 
> Tool Crib for JET - 18003583096

Or get Jet's catalog from their web site (http://www.jettools.com). 
Download it and view it with Abobe Acrobat, or order a hard copy.

Also, Wm Alden catalog now carries Jet.

...Eric


From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:40:19 EST 1997
Article: 183486 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: Craftsman router replacement
Message-ID: <01bc17c9$6ed17f60$94883180@ifozdex>
Sender: news@nosc.mil
Organization: NCCOSC
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:20:48 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183486

> >I would like to know more about this from people that have actually had
> >their Sears routers repalced. I looked for the original thread that had
> >the replaced routers in it, but it seems to have expired.

Here is my repost:

A recent post to this newsgroup mentioned the lousy plastic cam locking
mechanism on several of the lower-end Sears Craftsman routers. Sears
finally fixed the problem with this year's models, and the person that
brought this up before was able to trade his in without any problem. Well,
I had about the same router (1-1/2HP version) that I bought 3 years ago.
Obviously out of warrantee, but I figured, maybe I can pay a small fee to
get it upgraded.

I apparently got an excellent salesman. He understood my problem right
away, freely admitting that the previous design was very poor and that it
took too long for them to fix it. He asked me how old mine was, and I told
him it was 3 years old, well out of warrantee. Well, he swapped it for the
new model for no charge! I was very impressed. He just put a clearance tag
on my old one (for $32), as it was still working fine and safe. For that
price it will probably be very good for someone (it did work, it just can
slip and it was hard to adjust). Of course the new one has a brand new
warrantee. I did have the receipt, which I provided, but he agreed to swap
it before he knew I had the receipt.

Needless to say, I am happy (BTW, I also recently ordered a Freud FT2000e
3-1/4HP router so I have a better, more beefy unit as well). This salesman
knew the value of a happy customer. The router is only about $60 new, so
for less than $30 he bought likely return business.

To be honest, if he had said "I am sorry, but we cannot take a return on a
unit that old" I would not have blamed them, and I would not have held it
against Sears. Their service this time, though, was exemplary.

When you buy tools, examine it to see if you think it is good for your use,
don't just say "It is Craftsman so it must be bad/good." Every
manufacturer, in general, has good and not-so-good products. I still
faithfully buy Craftsman hand tools because I have had very good luck with
them (mostly wrenches, sockets and such). I compare them to others and
often decide the Craftsman is the best quality. I have never had problems
with their return guarantee. I guess I have access to the better Sears
stores!

Anyway, thought I would put this positive Sears note in here! By all means,
if you have a problem with something, ask if anything can be done. Be
honest, don't try to tell them you bought it less than a year ago if you
did not. Don't even try to hide that fact, come right out with it. Be
reasonable, don't expect them to replace every tool that breaks after the
warrantee period. Be polite, and if you get an answer you believe is
unreasonable by all means talk to someone else, but always be polite and
honest! It really works sometimes!


Andrew



From davet@proaxis.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:20 EST 1997
Article: 183487 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Blue pine paneling finish
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:55:22 GMT
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I'm installing some T&G blue pine paneling in my home.  I would 
like to leave it unfinished.  Any comments would be appreciated 
on the pros and cons of finishing or not finishing.  Also, if 
finishing is recommended, which finish material?

Thanks

Dave




From duncan@research.moore.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:21 EST 1997
Article: 183488 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Duncan J. Ross" <duncan@research.moore.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Avoiding kickback on TS.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:07:46 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183488

Most of the smaller chunks that I cut sit on the table, but I stand
clear in case of projectiles being launched.   If they stay near the
blade, I shut the saw off and move them.   


Gregg Horan wrote:
> 
> I've just recently started woodworking and was just curious
> about technique.
> 
> When crosscutting on a table saw, with small chunks of scrap -
> for instance just mitering the end of a 1"x2" board - what do
> you do to avoid that little triangle scrap from shooting across
> the basement?  I've always been smart enough to realize that it's
> going to fire off, so I've never been hit, but it can't be good
> for the blade and it's still very unsafe.
> 
> Any hints?  Is this not a good idea to be doing in the first place?
> ("Buy a miter saw" advise will go unheaded since my bank account
> is still recouperating....)
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> ~~ Gregg P. Horan ~~~~~~~~~~~~
> ~~ horangr@hsd.utc.com ~~~~~~~
> ~~ hora2999@hgc.edu ~~~~~~~~~~
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:22 EST 1997
Article: 183489 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Plans for a dust filtration unit?
Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News)
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(By this I don't mean a dust collector, but the kind of fan-in-a-box
unit that typically gets hung from the ceiling, to remove fine dust
>from  the air.  For now, I can live with a shop-vac and sweeping up,
but the fines are killing me.  Well, more like my wife will kill me
if I don't put a stop to them.)

I've seen some commercial units, and I believe I've seen a kit in
(I think) the Woodsmith catalog that included the blower.  To save
money, I'd like to try scrounging a used motor and building one from
scratch.

Is it as simple as building a box with a switch? :-/  Are there gotchas
I should avoid?  (Beyond things like building a box too small for the
motor, obviously. :)  Anyone done this recently?  Or seen plans for
something like this?  Thanks in advance!
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From tst@tst.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:23 EST 1997
Article: 183490 of rec.woodworking
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From: tst@tst.com (test)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 17:53:26 GMT
Organization: test org
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I just recently bought a bench from Woodworkers Warehouse.  I love it.  It 
cost 339 on sale.  I think it is normally 389.  I don't have the model number 
in front of me but I believe it is the Sjorgbergs (sp?) su68.  I read a review 
of it in wood magazine from a year or so ago and they said it would last a 
lifetime.  They said that it did not have the weight of one of the Ulmina's.  
But when you are spending 6 times or more on a bench I would hope that it is 
heavier.

So I, like you did not have time to build my own bench, nor did I want to and 
I couldn't be happier with the bench that I bought.


Chris
cplakyda@nine.com



In article <32FF974E.4B68@worldnet.att.net>, Drew Diaz 
<DDEdge@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte to this medium.
>
>basically, I'll never have the time to build the workbench I want & am 
>in the market for a ready made unit.
>
>Any suggestions???
>
>drew diaz


From dburns@queens.org Sat Feb 15 11:40:24 EST 1997
Article: 183491 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dennis Burns <dburns@queens.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Liegh Dovetail Jig
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:30:38 -0800
Organization: The Queen's Medical Center
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Steve Toro wrote:
> 
> Charles L. Esterak wrote:
> >
> > I just bought the Leigh D-4 at Woodcraft, Marsh Lane @ Spring Valley Rd. in
> > Addison.  Nice store. Seems to work nicely with my DeWalt 621, although
> > I've yet to try half-blinds.  The jig came with a very well written,
> > comprehensive manual that lists recommended bits and guides.  Woodcraft has
> > a catalog that also lists specific guides and bits that are compatible.
> > The Jig comes with a 1/4" shank carbide tipped dovetail and straight bit.
> > I bought a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer and beefier 8mm shank bits for
> > hardwood use.  A 7/16" or 5/8" guide is required.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > Herb Blair <tejas@APPLINK.NET> wrote in article
> > <199702091236.GAA13692@applink.applink.net>...
> > > I am contemplating buying a Liegh Dovetail Jig.  I would like to hear
> > from folks
> > > out there that own them.
> > > I would like to know how you use it most, thru dovetails or half-blind?
> > > What kind of router are you using?  I have a Porter Cable 690 with plunge
> > base.
> > > What accessories should I consider? (guides, bits, etc.)
> > > Where did you buy it?
> 
> I am also thinking about buying the D4.  Woodworkers Warehouse has
> it on sale for 349.00 this week?  Is this a good price?  Thanks in
> advance.


Try Highland 800-241-6748.  They have it for $339.00 plus 8.50 shipping
and no sales tax.


From aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:24 EST 1997
Article: 183492 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron Ionta <aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wooden whistles
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:26:27 -0600
Organization: IntraNet Solutions Inc.
Lines: 50
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References: <01bc16b5$29e81ae0$585a60ce@Pfischer> <5dlrtp$vid$1@brokaw.wa.com>
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Ed Rich wrote:
> 
> "Fischer" <fischer@cet.com> wrote:
> 
> >We are looking for some guidance in making wooden whistles using reeds,
> >rather than the old policeman "ball" kind of whistles.  Any guidance on
> >where to go, what to read, or who to talk to would be greatly appreciated!
> You are in luck because this is the time of year when the sap starts
> to flow in the willow trees. Go cut a piece of limb about 3/4 inch in
> diameter and four or five inches long.  Rap on the bark in several
> places and the bark will slip off the wood. Cut an air passage on top
> of the wood in one end, notch out a vee shaped section in the wood
> about an inch from the end-replace the bark sleeve and you will have a
> whistle with which you can drive the neighborhood crazy.

My father used to make those when I was a kid in Vermont.

the wood we used was what we called Dogwood? (I don't think dogwod
grows that far north) it has very green bark and never got very big.


                                    air <---|
                                            |  
BARK------------------------------------\   |  /------------
-----------------------------------------\    /             <---air
                                          \  /--------------
                                           \/


------------------------------------------------------------
BARK--------------------------------------------------------


Is that about right?

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////////////
                      @
////////////////////// \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Aaron R. Ionta

InterNet Solutions Inc.
9625 West 76th St. Suite #150
Eden Prairie, Minnesota 55344

aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com

Support Phone 888-688-8324 - Toll Free
              612-903-2020
Direct Line   612-903-2032


From DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net Sat Feb 15 11:40:25 EST 1997
Article: 183493 of rec.woodworking
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From: DNPIBEL <DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Trendlines Router Bits - Summary
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:29:38 -0800
Organization: Prodigy Internet
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I asked for information about Trendlines router bits, and got several replies. I also 
looked at deja news (about which I did not know when I posted my q.). Here is a 
numerical summary of all posts I got and could find on the subject. 

People who were satisfied with their bits, and would recommend them: 11 (comments 
ranged from unembellished statements of satisfaction to a couple of folk so bold as 
to say they couldn't tell the difference between T-line and Freud).

People who had no problems, but intended to replace with top-shelf bits as the need 
arose: 2.

People who had some problems, but seemed to accept them as part of life, without 
expressing bitterness or hostility: 2.

People who would never, ever again buy a Trendlines router bit: 3 (each had 
experienced a bit chipping or otherwise failing immediately upon being put into 
service).

I don't think this represents a statistically significant sample, but it's some 
indication, maybe.

Doug


From GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:26 EST 1997
Article: 183494 of rec.woodworking
From: "G.I." <GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Router Table
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <32fd7c2d.3439881@news.ftn.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183494

What is your home page address so I can take a look. Thanks.

Verne H. Bohlender <verneb@greynet.net> wrote in article
<32fd7c2d.3439881@news.ftn.net>...
> Note so many asking about a router table and as I have plans posted on
> my home page please take a look.  You don't need a lot of expense
> outside of a proper base for your router to use same which can be
> built out of waste material and contains room to hold most of your
> router bits.  Also have a beautiful safty switch which I stole from
> another idea but it's not listed.
> 
> Verne
> 


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:40:27 EST 1997
Article: 183495 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:39:07 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <5do8u8$g91@fido.asd.sgi.com> mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) writes:
>From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
>Subject: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
>Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:54:00 GMT


>  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
>wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
>premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
>that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
>difference really is?


These sound like made-up grades, but the difference should be obvious.  
Cabinet grade plywood is usually flatter, has less voids, and is veneered with 
a hardwood, ie birch, red oak, maple, etc.  Less-than-cabinet grade is classes 
as AC, BC, CDX, etc., in descending order of quality, and is usually 100% 
conifers.  You need only LOOK at the stuff to see if it is what you had in 
mind.  I generally wouldn't make anything decent with anything less than 
cabinet grade, if I were going to use plywood at all.

3/4" Birch plywood around here is $40 a sheet;  3/4" BC is about $23.

Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:40:28 EST 1997
Article: 183496 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plywood end-grain
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:41:46 UNDEFINED
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In article <855609357.24741@dejanews.com> salgeb@hotmail.com writes:
>Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:21:14 -0600
>From: salgeb@hotmail.com
>Subject: Plywood end-grain

>How do you prep the end-grain of plywood
>so you can't see the it after painting?

>Besides sanding what filler should I use?

Sanding won't do anything except maybe remove the saw marks.  You can fill the 
voids with any wood filler, but don't expect it to be invisible.  You can fill 
and sand and fill and sand, but it still won't look like wood, and it won't 
paint like wood, either.  The end grain, long grain, and filler all absorb 
differently.

Most people run solid wood edging along plywood edges.

Rich




From dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:40:29 EST 1997
Article: 183497 of rec.woodworking
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From: Denis A. Regan <dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: woodturning group
Date: 11 Feb 1997 18:57:27 GMT
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Does anyone know where the woodturning newsgroup resides ? I was
able to access it several months ago and then had problems with my
computer. Since then I have had no success. I think it was
previously in the ALT/REC/CRAFTS lists but not so for me now. Many
thanks for any help.
	Denis Regan, New Galloway, Scotland, UK

	dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk




From jeffka@accessone.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:29 EST 1997
Article: 183498 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Kavanaugh <jeffka@accessone.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Billiard Table (long)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:48:11 -0800
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Depending on where you live the terms billiard, pool, pocket, and snooker
will mean different things. For most Americans the following paragraphs
will apply. The term billiard was used in the early days of the sport to
describe most any table (one with pockets or without). But today it
usually follows the description below (exceptions may apply).

There are 3 different table styles. They are 1) Pocket Billiard
table(pool), 2) Snooker table, and 3) Billiard table (no pockets,
sometimes called a carom billiards table)

A Pocket billiard table has 6 pockets and for regualtion purposes the
length must be exactly twice its width.  There are very specific
measurements for the pocket dimensions (See Billard Congress of America
rulebook). The ball diameter is 2 1/4" (or for rec.ww - 9/4"). The height
of the table surface is another important mesaurement (Again See BCA
rulebook).  This is the table most Americans have played on and can range
>from  3x6, 3.5x7, 4x8, pro 4x8, 4.5x9 and 5x10.  Please observe that the
mesaurements for table size do not correspond to the inside rail to rail
dimension but to a more general overall size. Example: a 4.5'x9' table
will actually meaure 48"x96" from inside rail to rail. The outside
measurement will be closer to 4.5'x9'.

A snooker table once again its length is twice its width. I have seen
tables range in size from 4.5x9 to 5x10 and the English regulation size of
6x12'.  The balls are usually of smaller diameter than "pool" tables and
are 2 1/8".  Therefore the pockets are smaller and have a different
cushion profile (A more rounded entrance to the pocket). The height is
sometimes taller that a pocket billiard table and the cloth used is
different. (It has a nap to it)

A billiard table generally denotes a table that is 5x10' in size with no
pockets, just 4 rails. There are many different "billiard" games that can
be played on a "billiard" table, just as there are many games played on a
"pool" table. One game is called 3 cushion billards which uses balls that
are signifigantly larger and heavier than the 2 1/4" pool table balls.

Sorry for the length of this post but it seemed necessary.  

If one is interested in making a table, how about building a multi purpose
table.  The idea would be to build a 5x10' table with 4x4 timbers for the
supports and a 3 piece slate with pocket drops cut out in the slate. Then
build different rails that bolt thru the slate.  One set of rails would be
for billiards, one set for pool, and another set for Snooker.  This would
be the ultimate setup IMHO. Brunswick used to manufacture such a table. It
was 5x10 and you could buy billiard, pocket billiard, or snooker rails for
it. When bolting on the carom rails the 90 degree corners would cover the
pocket drops.

There are also companies that sell pocket inserts. These are short pieces
of rail that are inserted into the pocket openings so that a 6 pocket
table can now be used as a carom table with no pockets.

One note:  Carom billiards might be a better term to use in the place of
just "billiard".

There are several www sites that might help you plan such a table. Try the
BCA (Billiard Congress of America) site at www.bca-pool.com/hist.htm for
Michael Shamos' quick history of the sport. And try
http://www.bca-pool.com/rules/bca_spec.htm for BCA equipment specs. I
havent found plans for a table on the www.

If you cant find exact plans, try looking at some of the heavier duty
tables such as Brunswick Gold Crown III or the Connelly pro table made
form oak. These will give you good ideas on how to support the slate and
form the legs.  After writing all of this I would rather buy a high
quality table than make my own. But it would definitely be a fun project.

For slate and pocket sources check out billiard magazines such as
Pool&Billiard or Billiards Digest (USA Printed Mags)

Jeff Kavanaugh
jeffka@accessone.com



From aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:30 EST 1997
Article: 183499 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron Ionta <aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:50:32 -0600
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Check out www.theoak.com it has a plan site/node/place ya know
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////////////
                      @
////////////////////// \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Aaron R. Ionta

InterNet Solutions Inc.
9625 West 76th St. Suite #150
Eden Prairie, Minnesota 55344

aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com

Support Phone 888-688-8324 - Toll Free
              612-903-2020
Direct Line   612-903-2032


From doug_hood@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:31 EST 1997
Article: 183500 of rec.woodworking
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From: Doug Hood <doug_hood@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman router replacement
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:40:50 -0500
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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Count me among the few (many?) to get the "EZ Lock mechanism" router
replaced with the newer redesigned Craftsman routers. I took mine back
today. I explained that I had discovered (through the newsgroups) that
they had redesigned the locking mechanism, and that some folks had
received replacements. I simply asked them to replace mine (the worse
that could happen is that they would say "NO").    

Three observations:

1. They replaced it with no questions asked
2. The shelves were nearly empty of 1.5 hp routers like the one I
replaced
3. They retagged it for clearance. When I walked by the clearance table
on the 
   way out, there were at least two other routers there already. 


The new mechanism appears much more solid. Thanks to all who took the
time
to alert the rest of us...


doug


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:40:32 EST 1997
Article: 183501 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:48:15 UNDEFINED
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In article <19970211033601.WAA06529@ladder01.news.aol.com> hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) writes:
>From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
>Subject: Re: Sears TS?
>Date: 11 Feb 1997 03:36:12 GMT



>but only for cross-cuts with a 7.5" thin-kerf blade and for dados. Also,
>with all the fiddling I did, I never once got a nice clean rip cut.  I had
>Sears service come out several times, but they were never able to help me.


What a surprise.  Why don't you SELL that beast.  I know from experience they 
sell fast.


Weasel (tm)


Ooh, trademarked now.  I don't think others would feel the  need to use it.


>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"


If you're gonna use quotes, at least get it right:  "I got sumpin to say:  
It's better to burn out, then fade away"

Rich


>Does anyone have any experience with the Sears belt-drive TS? Am I
>being naive by even considering Sears?

>Thanks for any advice.

>Bob Dykeman




From ibsi@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:33 EST 1997
Article: 183502 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 19:01:30 GMT
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In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
woodworking projects?  Any limitations?  Courtesy of a storm, I have an
oak limb with some 8-10 feet of fairly straight wood averaging about 8" 
in diameter and I'd prefer not to use it for firewood if it can be turned
into useful, small lumber. Thanks in advance.
Mike


From jjoslin@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:40:33 EST 1997
Article: 183503 of rec.woodworking
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From: jjoslin@nortel.ca (Jeff Joslin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta sliding table.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 13:38:18 -0500
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In article <33005851.3375@rrnet.com>, paul@rrnet.com wrote:

>Anybody have the Delta sliding table ?  Looks like a neat idea.  How is
>the fit and finish and more importantly the accuracy ?

I asked the sliding table question about 9 months ago.  Below are some
of the responses I got.  I have edited them pretty heavily to conserve
bandwidth.

This past weekend I went to the Ottawa wood show and bought the
Mule sliding table.  I have it installed but not aligned - I'm going to
do that tonight - watch for a posting in the next day or two with a
review.

For now though, here's the summary of the Mule:
Cheap (about $250 US); well-made; ugly, not too hard to
install; fussy to align; supplied nuts, bolts and washers weren't
sufficient; the company owner who did the wood-show demo is a
fast-talking salesman type which almost made me change my mind
about buying it.  Takes less space than the Delta, and much less than
the Excalibur.  Crosscut fence looks to be somewhat tricky to 
fine-tune.  One disadvantage of the Mule is that it's only available
at woodworking shows or through mail-order.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

=====
From: rtb@odsunb.ih.att.com (BRADSTRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Review of Delta sliding table
Date: 6 Jan 1997 16:29:13 GMT

Several people have asked so I thought I wold give my thoughts on the
Delta Sliding Crosscut Table 34-555.

I put this table on my 2 HP Delta tilting arbor saw (not the Unisaw)
a couple of months ago.

With the 2 exceptions noted below the sliding table worked exactly as I thought
it would when I ordered it. Crosscutting of really long and heavy stock 
was a lot easier than with a cuttoff jig or an enhanced miter gauge.

But....

The first thing that I learned is that the sliding table brackets would
not fit over the access door which is on the left side of the saw. I had to
order a new door (about $40) from Delta before I could finish installation
of the table. The sliding table rails could not clear the original door. 

In order to open the new access door I can't just remove the sliding table
(which is easy) but I also have to remove all of the mounting hardware for
the slding table. This means that I will have to go through all of the
fine tuning that is involved with installing the table the first time.
This may not be a problem with the Unisaw if the access door is on the
right side of the saw.

The other thing I don't like about the sliding table is that the mounting
harware (slide rails) come out in front of the saw and are right where
I like to stand when I use the saw. 

If I could do it over again I would not buy this table because  of 
the two problems documented here even though it it really nice to use.

I would rather have contracted out the work of cutting large stock and/or
put the money ($329) towards a radial arm saw with a relatively wide capacity.

Todd Bradstrum
=====
 May 14 16:10:00 1996
 From:        Jeff (J.)  Joslin
 Subject:     Sliding tables for table saw: summary

In article <jjoslin-0905961254460001@47.155.65.164>, jjoslin@nortel.ca
(Jeff Joslin) wrote:

>Lately I've had some frustrating experiences making accurate tablesaw 
>crosscuts on long stock.  The lousy miter gauge that came with my 
>Delta 10" Tilting Arbor saw has a front face that isn't anywhere 
>close to flat, and the face is too small for referencing long stock.
>
>On American Woodshop the other day I noticed that Scott was using the
>new Delta sliding table.  It looks to be fairly compact, and seems to
>work well.  But it was a bit hard to tell how accurate it is, and how
>well-made it is.  I phoned the local Delta purveyor to find out whether
>it's compatible with my Delta Tilting Arbor saw (it is), and how much
>it costs: a whopping $655 Canadian, or about $490 U.S., which is roughly
>twice what an Accu-Miter costs.  But I'm still considering it.

>The dealer doesn't keep a Delta ST in stock, and I've never seen one up 
>close and in person anywhere around here (Ottawa), so if any of you have 
>one, or have even had a good look at one, I'd appreciate your opinions.
>
>Also, if you have experience with any other commercially-available 
>sliding tables or aftermarket miter gauges, I'd appreciate hearing about
>them as well.

It's been a few days since I posted this, and there have been a number of
replies, both private and public.  I'm summarizing the replies here.

=====
>If you are careful you can make a sliding miter cut off for your saw, 
>with
>holddowns if you like, which should allow you to cut 45 degree miters 
>with no problem.  If you want more versitility you can either purchase or 
>make
>a fully adjustable to allow you to cut below and probably above the 45 
>degree, if you add a little ingenuity. 

My response:  I'm primarily concerned about 90 degree cuts, not 45 degree
cuts.  Also, I'm trying to buy a solution rather than make a solution,
for the simple reason that my shop time is precious, and I want to spend
more of my time making end products rather than more stuff for the shop.


=====
>I've seen the Delta sliding table at my local dealer for about $350 US.
> I was very impressed with the sliding action, but for that price, I
>would consider a used RAS dedicated to crosscutting and a good crosscut
>blade.

My response: Wow, $350 U.S. is a much better price - I've bought little
>from  the local Delta outlet, which I find to be overpriced.  Looks like
they really _are_ overpirced.  As for a RAS, I don't want to dedicate the
space.  The additional space taken up by the sliding table is pretty small,
since it replaces an extension table on my saw.

=====
>I paid >$500 for my sliding table and it came a free table saw.  Check out
>the Ryobi.  I could not resist this.  Its hard to comprehend spending more
>for a cross-cutting accessory than for a whole tablesaw or for that matter
>my dream machine,  the DeWalt 705   12" Compound Mitre Saw.

My response:  I'm not impressed with the Ryobi - if you're happy with
yours, that's fine, it just means we have different priorities.  As for
the DeWalt, yeah, I'd love to have one, and I'd seriously consider one
before I bought an expensive sliding table.  Space is still an issue though.

=====
>Trend Lines has it for US$319 in a current catalog.

My response:  Holy cow!  Thanks for letting me know.

=====
>Sliding tables aren't that difficult to build.  Do it yourself, and save big 
>time. The one I use all the
>time is made of 1'/4" masonite w/ UHMW sliders.

My response:  For a couple of years I've had the plans for a solidly built
sliding table, but I've never had the time to build it.  Right now money
is easier find than spare time is.

=====
>You can probably screw a piece of straight wood to the face of your mitre
gauge,
>carving and/or shimming the back of the wood as necessary to compensate for the
>lack of flatness. 
>You could also build a crosscut sled, ... I swear by the crosscut
>sled that I built about three years ago. I have successfully crosscut 12 foot
>8/4 maple boards using this sled and a couple of clamps to hold the board to
>the sled.

My response:  Screwing an auxiliary fence hasn't worked for me in the
past because no matter how carefully I shim it, it loses its setting after
a few uses.  (Considerable shimming is needed to get it flat and square,
and the shims get knocked out of place.  I don't really want to glue stuff
onto my miter gauge).

The crosscut sled is a good idea, but again, I'm looking primarily for an
off-the-shelf solution.  On second thought, building a sled isn't a big
job at all - it's only three pieces (board, miter-slot runner, and fence).
Yes, definitely worth considering.

>You could consider building a cutoff box.  If done right, it will
>be more accurate than anything commerically available.

My response:  I already have a cutoff box (similar to a sled, but it has both 
front and back fence, and it rides in both miter slots, whereas the sled lies 
completely on one side of the blade).  My cutoff box was one of my very 
first projects with my tablesaw, and it's not very accurately made.  As a 
result, I don't use it that much.  But it can be adjusted, and a piece of 
laminate on the bottom would help it slide easier.
=====

So, in conclusion, y'all think I'm crazy for even thinking of getting a
sliding table.  Well, I'm still considering it, but I'm also considering 
some other options.  Maybe tonight I'll spend some time realigning my
old cutoff box.  That will handle about 2/3 of my problems,  and building
a sled will handle the boards too wide for the box.

Thank you to everyone who took the time to reply.  Your efforts are
appreciated.

No-one gave any information about the Delta sliding table.  If you have
any experience with it, please send me some e-mail.

Jeff

-- 
Jeff Joslin                              All opinions mine.
=====
 May 16 00:32:00 1996
 To:          Jeff (J.)  Joslin 
 From:        'waflowers@qnx.com'  
 Subject:     Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary

In article <jjoslin-1405961608550001@47.155.65.164> you write:
>In article <jjoslin-0905961254460001@47.155.65.164>, jjoslin@nortel.ca
>(Jeff Joslin) wrote:
>
>>[... snip ...]
>>
>>On American Woodshop the other day I noticed that Scott was using the
>>new Delta sliding table.  It looks to be fairly compact, and seems to
>>work well.  But it was a bit hard to tell how accurate it is, and how
>>well-made it is.  I phoned the local Delta purveyor to find out whether
>>it's compatible with my Delta Tilting Arbor saw (it is), and how much
>>it costs: a whopping $655 Canadian, or about $490 U.S., which is roughly
>>twice what an Accu-Miter costs.  But I'm still considering it.

I've seen it and the Accu-Miter; never used either.  The ST looked
and felt good.  I wouldn't mind one, but not at that $$$.  I've also
handled the Excalibur and took a good look at the Mule (see below).

I own an Accusquare Fence (no connection to Accu-Miter) from Mule. 
It's a Canadian company that has a fence, sliding table and some
other things.  I'm VERY impressed with the fence (bought it at the
wood show in Feb.) and if their sliding table is built as well, then
I think there's one in my future somewhere.  The ST costs about $325,
which makes it a whole lot better deal than an Accu-Miter in my
books!

You can reach Mule Cabinetmaker Machines at:
    RR2, Norwood,
    Ont. K0L 2V0

    1-705-778-5585

Tell Dave Woodland (or his wife, who often fields the calls) I sent
you.  I don't get anything from it, but I owe him a favor.  I figure
that recommendations are one way to pay it back.  :-) And who knows,
maybe he'll give you a break because its a recommendation.  Stranger
things have happened.

OTOH, I wish it Mule could handle 48" for panel cuts -- it'll only go
to 28" or maybe 33" as far as I know (maybe there are bigger models,
I know they have 3 sizes of fences: 24", 36" and 48" -- I've got the
48").  Even the Delta can only go to 36".  The only one that I know
can go to 48" (without getting into the serious $$$) is Excalibur
(also Canadian made).  The Excalibur is avaible from Tool Trend in
Toronto (big mailorder place for Norm-like guys -- I got my Delta
drillpress and CMT dado set from them, plus lots of smaller items). 
It costs about the same as the Delta, but is a lot wider (takes up
amuch more room).

=====
 May 16 08:30:00 1996
 To:          Jeff (J.)  Joslin  
 From:        'GrayRS@corning.com'
 Subject:     Sliding Tables


Jeff,

I read your sliding table summary, and was surprised to see the small number 
of responses you got.  Not too long ago I was in the market for a used table 
saw, and many of the professional models I encountered were equipped with a 
sliding table.  This gave me the impression that these were fairly common, 
especially for cutting sheet goods in shops that did not have a panel saw.

Anyway,  I haven't seriously looked at these but I did briefly look at the 
delta as well as the Excaliber at a local dealer.  The excaliber sticks in 
my mind the most because the salesperson sat on the corner of the table, and 
it slid just as easily with him on it as it did with no weight on it.  I was 
pretty impressed!  I would recommend checking out both of these before 
buying.  I am not aware of any others in the $300 - $500 price range.  Good 
Luck!

Bob Gray
(grayrs@corning.com)
=====
 May 16 09:28:00 1996
 To:          Jeff (J.)  Joslin
 From:        'emc2@phantom.com'
 Subject:     Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary

I posted this awhile back. I to was looking to buy a solution and I
did.  The Excaliber is canadian by origination but now in the US over
the border.  I have been fairly happy with it ( it is not like a
dedicated sliding table saw but those cost much more)  As I say I
didn't think much of the Delta after "playing" with it a the local
Trendlines.  The Robland looks more substantial but I have not heard
good things.  (goes out of alignment often because of design)  Plus I
think it costs around  US$900.  To sum it up I still like my Excaliber
for what it is and I routinely rely on it to square up panel stock for
cabinets etc.  Never any problems and easy to adjust if you need to.
I also use it as a square reference for dadoing things like lap joints
with excellent results.  I leave it set up all the time but you can
take the cross cut beam off and just have the carriage for exta table
support.

Good luck


I bought the excaliber before the delta was available.  Once you get
it set up it is quite accurate.  I dont like the Delta by comparison
but then again it is cheaper. Robland makes a sliding attachment but I
heard that it isnt very solid.  The excaliber is no spacesaver and
cost about $500.  You could always get a Ryobi with the sliding table
but then you would have to through away the saw (in my opinion) and
you would be left with a cheap sliding table.  None of these are the
equivalent of the real thing.  But they work.  Use a $20,000 Martin or
a SCMI or other commercial saw and you will be spoiled.

=====
 May 16 10:59:00 1996
 To:          'waflowers@qnx.com'
 From:        Jeff (J.)  Joslin
 Subject:     Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary

In message "Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary", you write:
>
>You can reach Mule Cabinetmaker Machines at:
>    RR2, Norwood,
>    Ont. K0L 2V0

OK, thanks.  I'll follow up on this, I think.  The more I think about
the problems I'm trying to solve, the more I think that a sliding table
is the best solution for me.


>If US$350 is good, would you take a chance on CDN$325 with a lifetime
>warrenty and a 90 day money-back satisfaction guarentee? Try the
>Mule.

Yup, very tempting.

=====
Jeff
 May 16 11:15:00 1996
 To:          'emc2@phantom.com'
 From:        Jeff (J.)  Joslin 
 Subject:     Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary

In message "Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary", you write:

>I posted this awhile back. I to was looking to buy a solution and I
>did.  The Excaliber is canadian by origination but now in the US over
>the border.  I have been fairly happy with it ( it is not like a
>dedicated sliding table saw but those cost much more)  As I say I
>didn't think much of the Delta after "playing" with it a the local
>Trendlines.  The Robland looks more substantial but I have not heard
>good things.  (goes out of alignment often because of design)  Plus I
>think it costs around  US$900.  To sum it up I still like my Excaliber
>for what it is and I routinely rely on it to square up panel stock for
>cabinets etc.  Never any problems and easy to adjust if you need to.
>I also use it as a square reference for dadoing things like lap joints
>with excellent results.  I leave it set up all the time but you can
>take the cross cut beam off and just have the carriage for exta table
>support.

Yes, I'm going to be visiting my parents this weekend, and there's a
tool store near them that carries Excalibur.  I'm planning to go there
to check out the Excalibur ST.  I _am_ concerned about the extra width
required by the Excalibur vs. the Delta, though.  I'll take some
measurements in my shop to see if I have room.

=====
 May 16 12:31:00 1996
 To:          Jeff (J.)  Joslin 
 From:        'lrm@fusion-concepts.com'
 Subject:     Re: Sliding tables for table saw: summary

> So, in conclusion, y'all think I'm crazy for even thinking of getting a
> sliding table.  Well, I'm still considering it, but I'm also considering
> some other options.  Maybe tonight I'll spend some time realigning my
> old cutoff box.  That will handle about 2/3 of my problems,  and building
> a sled will handle the boards too wide for the box.

I've had the Delta sliding table on their Contractors saw for about a year. 
I've been very happy
with it.  I bought it mainly for doing case work (making 2' shelves out of
a 1x16x8' piece of
plywood, etc.)  It does that wonderfully.  Just last night I need a 9
degree cut on the end of a
bunch of 2' x 4' pices of plywood.  No problem.  I set the fence to 9
degrees, set the stop at the
correct length and zipped right through them. 

If I had more room and more money, I would probably like the Vega (I think
that's who makes it) on
a Unisaw of General.  However, for the money and size, I think the Delta
sliding table is a good
product.

One caveat.  For doing extremely accurate work (picture frames and the
like), I would still
probably use a cutoff saw or a special cutoff box that slide in both tracks
on the table saw.

Hope this helps.

LeRoy Michaelson, Fusion Concepts

-- 
Jeff Joslin                              All opinions mine.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:34 EST 1997
Article: 183504 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
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In article <330078EF.6298@sadust.hill.com>, Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
wrote:
>

I generally do "campaigns" when I am building something - from 8 PM to
midnight every night, and from noon to mindnight on the weekends, straight
through until it's done.

And then the project is done, and I might ignore the shop for weeks, or
just go out to fondle a plane or clean a few things for less than a
half-hour.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From sra817@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:35 EST 1997
Article: 183505 of rec.woodworking
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From: sra817@aol.com (Sra817)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 19:37:24 GMT
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I've been wondering the same thing. just bought a var speed myself. I know
when using large diameter bits, ex: raised panel, a slower speed is
prefered. What about when using soft woods like pine,aspen, or cedar. Any
answers out there?


From mkpopp@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:36 EST 1997
Article: 183506 of rec.woodworking
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From: mkpopp@ix.netcom.com (Mark Popp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:44:48 GMT
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Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:

>I see note after note asking for plans this or that. I see some who
>reply that they built one, but never offer to share the plans.  Why is
>this?  Due to the binary problem?  Not knowing how to get the plans
>into binary form?  Too much trouble?  No plans exist, just in your
>head?
------snip

>I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
>use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
>I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
>and  gals think it would be a contribution. 

------snip

I'm guessing that people who have plans they are proud of want to
see them on the cover of a woodworking magazine; not available
for free on the web.  For those who can't wait that long, there
is already a site that accepts CAD plans from hobbyists or
whoever at:
       http://www.woodforum.com

BTW, plans at this site also show up on the big list at:
      http://theoak.com/gary/index.html

Mark P.



From sra817@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:37 EST 1997
Article: 183507 of rec.woodworking
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From: sra817@aol.com (Sra817)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any help on using Shop vac as a Dust collector?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 19:56:39 GMT
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I  use good quality duct tape  as spacer/bushing on insides or outsides of
fittings, dust ports, or hose ends. Started as temp fix, but seems to hold
up rather well.


From mpeele@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:40:38 EST 1997
Article: 183508 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:35:17 -0500
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Andrew Tune wrote:
> 
> Rick White asked a question that I should have asked ages ago,
> because I've been trying to decipher it also.  Bill Pounds
> gave an informative and humourous answer:
> 
> > ...
> > The system is based on quarters of an inch. 4/4 equals 1 inch, 8/4 is
> > two inches, 6/4 is 1-1/2" etc.  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch
> > is not really one inch, it's 3/4 inch. The 1 inch refers to rough cut
> > material, before planing. Sometimes you will find 4/4 rough which will
> > be close to 1 inch, but rough on both sides. Of course if you plane it
> > yourself, it will end up somewhat thinner, although probably not as
> > small as commercial.
> 
> So let me make sure I've got this clear.  When something says 8/4 maple,
> I can go and buy finished maple 38mm finished size (1.5 inch)?
> What this means is that I can simply treat each "unit" as 4.75mm
> finished size.  Am I right?
> 
> So here's my question.  How do I specify 4" finished size?  In
> Australia we would go and buy 100mm timber.  Would you ask
> for 5.33?  Surely not... please tell me it's not like that...

Andrew

For 4" finished you would ask for 17/4 rough which you will not find. The 
rules are:
   rough in quarters of inch(even starting with 4/4 with 5/4 as only odd)
   skip planed = rough - 1/8"
   finished planed = rough - 1/4 (or 3/16)

Lumber is generally available in       4/4,   5/4,    8/4,   12/4  and   16/4 
   which is rough dim of                1", 1 1/4",    2",     3"  and     4" 
      skip planed dim of              7/8", 1 1/8", 1 7/8", 2 7/8" and 3 7/8"     
finished planed(milled) dim of 3/4"(13/16),     1", 1 3/4", 2 3/4" and 3 3/4"

The above list is for planks which is what most lumber dealers will stock
but not all sizes in all species. Some dealers will have 6/4, 10/4 and 20/4 
in planks or squares with squares easiest to find in these sizes.

So ask for 16/4 and change you plans if you want a North American species from
a NA dealer, that is unless you want a lot(several thousand bf) and then you 
can get and dim you want.

Michael Peele


From mpeele@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:40:39 EST 1997
Article: 183509 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Peele <mpeele@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:49:23 -0500
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John W. Shear wrote:
> 
> Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
> Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
> the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
> left of the blade.
> Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
> explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
> the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
> side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.


When making raised panels or preparing squares for turning I remove 
most of the material with fence on the left and the blade tilted.

Michael Peele


From doug_hood@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:40 EST 1997
Article: 183510 of rec.woodworking
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From: Doug Hood <doug_hood@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Construction of Solid Core door?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:02:48 -0500
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What is at the center of a solid core door? Someone mentioned using one
for a workbench top... and it seems like a good idea.  I've also
considered 
using one to construct an outfeed table or even a router table.  

They are flat, heavy, and could be finished and made smooth as glass. 

I don't want to cut into one, though, without having a good idea of what
is in there....



Thanks,

Doug


From joe.fleming@sandiegoca.ncr.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:41 EST 1997
Article: 183511 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe Fleming <joe.fleming@sandiegoca.ncr.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ambient Air Cleaners
Date: 11 Feb 1997 18:45:08 GMT
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Somewhere (I think The Workshop Book) I saw a home-made system
built from an old attic fan.  Taking on this inspiration, I went
to a heating/air conditioning contractor last summer and asked
if they had any old, but functional furnaces that were replaced
when AC was added to a house.  They gave me a complete furnace
for free.  I plan to use the fan and motor as the core of a shop
air cleaner.  I may also keep the furnace housing itself
(aproximately 15" x 24" x 48") because the fan/motor already are
mounted and filter holding is already built in.  If I do this, I
will gut the heat exchanger.

Joe

>==========John N Scheffel, 2/6/97==========
>
>KWyngarden wrote:
>> 
>> I produce a lot of dust in the studio. I've decided to
>purchase an ambient
>> air cleaner to help clean the air. I currently use a 2 HP single-stage
>> dust collector and an exhaust fan(for really heavy dust). As I
>look in the
>> Amer. Woodworker Buyer's Guide, I see an assortment of
>available cleaners.
>> But I realize that I know very little about dust removal
efficiency and
>> the like. My studio isn't large, about 800sq. ft. with ceiling
>height of
>> 15ft. Perhaps someone with some experience in these things can
>suggest to
>> me what to look for and suggest a product that has a good
>track record and
>> easily obtainable filters.
>> Thanks, Ben
>
>I think WOOD magazine did a review on these recently.  If I remember
>right the JDS system was pretty well rated.  There have been
>lots of articles in FWW on building your own air cleaning system
>recently, but I don't think they have reviewed commercially available
>systems.
>
>
>John Scheffel




From chuck.steger@lmco.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:41 EST 1997
Article: 183512 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Steger <chuck.steger@lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:05:06 -0500
Organization: Lockheed Martin Federal Systems in Manassas, VA, USA
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It has been written about many times here in rec.ww but I have yet to
see a definitive answer on why wrapping grounding wire around (outside
of) PVC pipe will take static elctricity to ground. After all PVC is
nonconductive pipe so why would wrapping the wire on the outside of the
pipe work?
   Lo and behold, the April 97 issue of "Wood" magazine states this very
thing as one way of grounding using PVC pipe (the other way has rivets
going into the pipe wall). However, they did not mention why this will
work given the nonconductive properties of PVC.
   Can anyone explain why this will work (I've written "Wood" with the
same question but have not heard back from them yet)?
-- 
Chuck Steger
Warrenton, VA  
chuck.steger@lmco.com


From dodsonjohn@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:42 EST 1997
Article: 183513 of rec.woodworking
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From: dodsonjohn@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shaker Plans
Date: 11 Feb 1997 20:24:52 GMT
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In article <19970210220700.RAA19938@ladder01.news.aol.com>, xqqme3@aol.com
(Xqqme3) writes:

>Looking for plans for buildinf church/pulpit furniture in the Shaker
>style.  Can anyone give me an idea where to look?  Thanks
>
>

The Time Life book on Shaker furniture has a bench plan.  You might also
look in Thos. Moser's 'Building Shaker Furniture" book.  The book by Jim
Shea is also good.


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:43 EST 1997
Article: 183514 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: woodturning group
Date: 11 Feb 1997 20:35:48 GMT
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rec.crafts.woodturning

most newsreaders will search for keywords in newsgroup names, such as
turning or woodturning.



In article <5dqfen$jjh@neptune.theplanet.co.uk>
Denis A. Regan <dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk> writes:

> Does anyone know where the woodturning newsgroup resides ? I was
> able to access it several months ago and then had problems with my
> computer. Since then I have had no success. I think it was
> previously in the ALT/REC/CRAFTS lists but not so for me now. Many
> thanks for any help.
>         Denis Regan, New Galloway, Scotland, UK
> 
>         dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk
> 
> 


David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:40:44 EST 1997
Article: 183515 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: Drawing program
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Verne H. Bohlender <verneb@greynet.net> wrote in article
<32ff7def.3889747@news.ftn.net>...
> Use PaintShopPro it's excellent for this.
> 
> On Sat, 01 Feb 1997 08:00:17 -0500, Pete <ryssel@sprynet.com> wrote:
> 
> >Which program is the most common program used to make drawings for
> >woodworking projects? I Used Corel Draw 4, but is where any other
> >programs that would work better. Thanks

Got to disagree with you, Verne. Paint Shop Pro is a bitmap photo editor.
It may be easy to draw pictures (and if this is what you want, of course it
is the right tool), but it is nearly impossible to modify one. It works
just like a piece of paper and pencils (which, of course, make it
relatively easy and familiar to use at first). Objects (lines, circles, et
cetera) lose their individuality, they are merged in with the rest of the
pixels. You cannot have different levels of objects (on top of each other;
ones on top overwrite anything under). Mind you, there are bitmap editors
out there (Micrografx Picture Publisher (in ABC Graphics Suite), Corel
Photo Paint, others) that can do this, but they are still bitmap
representations of the object, so cannot really be scaled well. I suggest
that you try a vector drawing program; you may like it better. It does
require a bit different way of thinking; you draw in terms of objects and
fills rather than painting like on paper. Corel Draw is a vector drawing
tool, but it is less technical in nature than CAD programs. There are many
out there in a wide range of prices.

BTW, I have not looked at PSP lately, so perhaps it has some of these
features, but it still will not match a vector drawing tool.

Andrew



From duquette@cogent.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:45 EST 1997
Article: 183516 of rec.woodworking
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From: duquette@cogent.net (Will&Jane Duquette)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Scroll Saw
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:37:53 GMT
Organization: Cogent Software
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willyj@sunherald.infi.net (Will Jordan) wrote:

> Are there comments on the Delta Scroll Saw Model 40-530?  Can the plain
>end blades be changed quickly? Thanks Will Jordan

So far as I know, all the new Delta scroll saws use the same 
"QuikChange II" blade changing system.  And yes, the
blades can be changes quite quickly.

Will

--
Will Duquette                   | It's amazing what you can
duquette@cogent.net             | do with the right tools.
http://www.cogent.net/~duquette |    -- Me



From duquette@cogent.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:46 EST 1997
Article: 183517 of rec.woodworking
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From: duquette@cogent.net (Will&Jane Duquette)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Are old sears tools bad??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:40:14 GMT
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Wayne Corrie <wayne2@home.com> wrote:

>Are all of the old Craftsman wood tools bad?  I know full well that the
>new ones are "Crapsman", but what about the stuff made back in the 40's
>and 50's??

I've got an old Craftsman palm sander that must have been made in the
'60's at the latest.  All metal, fun design.  It looks a lot like the
diesel engine on a passenger train--the on/off switch sticks out
where the headlight would be.

Wouldn't actually use it, though.  Probably works fine, but it's
really quite *LOUD*.

Will
--
Will Duquette                   | It's amazing what you can
duquette@cogent.net             | do with the right tools.
http://www.cogent.net/~duquette |    -- Me



From bykejh@Interaccess.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:46 EST 1997
Article: 183518 of rec.woodworking
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From: John & Cathleen Halliburton <bykejh@Interaccess.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltic Birch - How many layers?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:56:43 -0600
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bquan@arf.org wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
>   I've been trying to locate some good quality maple (veneered) plywood
> for a project. So far a visit to the local HD yielded 4x8 sheets of
> baltic birch with ~ 7 layers. My question is what is consider to be
> "high" grade ply suitable for cabinetry ? C-1, C-2? i.e. How many layers
> should I be looking for?
> 
> - Brian
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
What thickness are you referring to?  For 3/4" thick baltic birch(or
Finnish birch) plywood, the number of plys is going to be 12-13.

JH


From abacab@nb.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:40:47 EST 1997
Article: 183519 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Abacab" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:06:00 GMT
Organization: NBTel Internet
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For those who posted that were crapping on the use of the metric system,
let me say this about that.

It's actually a great system.  A lot of us Canadians were quite upset about
to change, change scares and upsets a lot of people, but with the ever
growing international economy it is proving a great idea.  Also, for the
person who replied above, it's not actually what's used by France, but
pretty much the world.  The American's have been fighting about changing
officially for years now, as they always tend to believe whatever they do
is the best, but it's also their pride and joy American muscle cars with
the big 5.0 plaques on the side.

About the system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre of water
weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar comparisons
for lengths.

I hope that makes sense to some, and I'm sure it will break open a huge
argument with others.  I'm lucky enough to be at the age where I bounce
back and forth between the two.  I favor metric for determining the
weather, etc, and standard for woodworking and the gas usage of my car.

Take Care all,
Dan Hamill
Atlantic Canada




From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:48 EST 1997
Article: 183520 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Construction of Solid Core door?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:23:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Doug,
Some are particle board stuff (interior) others are glued-up lumber liken
to butcher block construction. The latter would probably be better for a
table or workbench top. I think the doors are coded as to content. If it
says "interior only" then its likely to be P-board junk. If its lumber
core, the glue-up is probably visible top and bottom. The glue joints
sometimes telegraph through the veneer, but can only be detected with a
shiny finish applied. 
Casey



Doug Hood <doug_hood@hp.com> wrote in article <3300D068.6539@hp.com>...
> What is at the center of a solid core door? Someone mentioned using one
> for a workbench top... and it seems like a good idea.  I've also
> considered 
> using one to construct an outfeed table or even a router table.  
> 
> They are flat, heavy, and could be finished and made smooth as glass. 
> 
> I don't want to cut into one, though, without having a good idea of what
> is in there....
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Doug
> 
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFBF0"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Palisade"><b>Doug,<br>Some are particle board =
stuff (interior) others are glued-up lumber liken to butcher block =
construction. The latter would probably be better for a table or =
workbench top. I think the doors are coded as to content. If it says =
&quot;interior only&quot; then its likely to be P-board junk. If its =
lumber core, the glue-up is probably visible top and bottom. The glue =
joints sometimes telegraph through the veneer, but can only be detected =
with a shiny finish applied. <br>Casey<br><br><br><br>Doug Hood =
&lt;<font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>doug_hood@hp.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt; wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>3300D068.6539@hp.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; What is at the center of a solid core =
door? Someone mentioned using one<br>&gt; for a workbench top... and it =
seems like a good idea. &nbsp;I've also<br>&gt; considered <br>&gt; =
using one to construct an outfeed table or even a router table. =
&nbsp;<br>&gt; <br>&gt; They are flat, heavy, and could be finished and =
made smooth as glass. <br>&gt; <br>&gt; I don't want to cut into one, =
though, without having a good idea of what<br>&gt; is in =
there....<br>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Thanks,<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
Doug<br>&gt; </p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1838.044076A0--



From jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:40:49 EST 1997
Article: 183521 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Jerry and Lisa" <jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:39:34 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Hey everyone..   I have a question and I hope that someone can help me out
here..   I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for my
kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me to
a web page or show a picture of a pattern of a kitty condo or scratching
post..  I want it to be a nice place for my cats, something sturdy, but I
don't want to spend $200 on something my cats are going to scratch up.. 
Please, if anyone can direct me to a good web page with patterns on it, I'd
love that.. 

thank you so much for any help!!


-- 
Lisa

jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:50 EST 1997
Article: 183522 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: pau ferro oily?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:28:00 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <32FF98E0.4F72@worldnet.att.net>, Jeffrey.Silverman@worldnet.att.net says...
>
>Anyone have significant experience working with pau ferro? I glued up 
>some thin panels then laminated them to maple using Titebond II and many 
>of the seams and laminations came appart. Is the wood particularly oily 
>so that I should have use a polyurethane or epoxy glue?
>
>Thanks 
>Jeff

I wouldn't consider Pau Ferro to be particularly oily -- doesn't seem to
be any more so than walnut, for example.  It is an extremely hard and
dense wood, though, which makes it susceptible to warping when wet,
especially in thin pieces, as you describe.  I suspect that it's the II
in the Titebond that might be causing the problem.  It's a really thin
mixture, lower solids than regular Titebond, and more water.  I haven't
seen tests, but my experience has been that it has a lower bond strength
and lower inherent strength than 'regular' AR adhesives. Fit and clamping
pressure are fussier with T-II, since it can't fill gaps as well as regular.

A lot of conjecture here, no facts.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:51 EST 1997
Article: 183523 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Once more into the breach....
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:41:52 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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No, Tom, please. Don't hold back...
I tend to agree with your observations. Norm is relying on the fact that
this thing is literally steeped in polyurethane, and is "hermetically
sealed" against changes in humidity. That's the only thing that may keep it
>from  tearing itself apart. If he'd made it as a two-piece (chest on base)
it would have been possible to engineer in some better details, and looked
better, I think. Norm declared at the end that this
three-coat-varnish-stain was to become his "preferred finish" for pine, now
that he'd discovered it. 
BTW, to my ears it sounds like measured "drahwring".
Casey



Tom Perigrin <tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu> wrote in article
<tip*-100297224045@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu>...
> You would think that I'd learn... but no, I guess I'm too old.   
Everytime
> I dare to make critical comments about Norm Abrams technique I get flamed
> up one side and down the other.  But being an iconoclast is partly it's
own
> reward.
> 
> So, once more into the breach dear freinds, once more into the breach.
> 
> This weekend I watched NYW....  Norm was building some sort of dough
chest
> (I tuned in halfway and missed the introduction).   The thing was a
horror
> of cross grain construction
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFBF0"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Palisade"><b>No, Tom, please. Don't hold =
back...<br>I tend to agree with your observations. Norm is relying on =
the fact that this thing is literally steeped in polyurethane, and is =
&quot;hermetically sealed&quot; against changes in humidity. That's the =
only thing that may keep it from tearing itself apart. If he'd made it =
as a two-piece (chest on base) it would have been possible to engineer =
in some better details, and looked better, I think. Norm declared at the =
end that this three-coat-varnish-stain was to become his &quot;preferred =
finish&quot; for pine, now that he'd discovered it. <br>BTW, to my ears =
it sounds like measured =
&quot;drahwring&quot;.<br>Casey<br><br><br><br>Tom Perigrin &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt; wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>tip*-100297224045@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; You would think that I'd learn... but =
no, I guess I'm too old. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Everytime<br>&gt; I dare to =
make critical comments about Norm Abrams technique I get flamed<br>&gt; =
up one side and down the other. &nbsp;But being an iconoclast is partly =
it's own<br>&gt; reward.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; So, once more into the breach =
dear freinds, once more into the breach.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; This weekend I =
watched NYW.... &nbsp;Norm was building some sort of dough chest<br>&gt; =
(I tuned in halfway and missed the introduction). &nbsp;&nbsp;The thing =
was a horror<br>&gt; of cross grain construction</p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
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From wslaton@austin360.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:52 EST 1997
Article: 183524 of rec.woodworking
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From: slaton <wslaton@austin360.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: cedar deck preservation
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:42:29 -0600
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Any of you guys had any pleasant experiences with deck preservatives.  
Everyone in the industry seems to sell "THE ABSOLUTE BEST".  Some truly 
awful. Any comments appreciated before I spray a nice new cedar deck 
with some crap.


From csmgc@ux1.cts.eiu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:53 EST 1997
Article: 183525 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: csmgc@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Mike Clayton)
Subject: Router used in router table
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When using a panel raising bit with a router in a table is the bit completely 
outside the router base?  Or should you only buy bits that fit within the 
inside diameter of your router's base?

Thanks,   Mike


From rodwsheets@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:54 EST 1997
Article: 183526 of rec.woodworking
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From: rodwsheets@aol.com (RodWSheets)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for a dust filtration unit?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:55:40 GMT
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I built one of these recently -except mine is on wheels and doubles as a
sanding table. I think I got the plans from Shop Notes. It works ok but
not great. It turned out louder than I hoped - (it doesn't hurt the ears
but is just loud enough to 
annoy me). I keep wondering if I did something wrong because the suction
is not very great but I guess its ok. Its not the "be all and end all"
that I hoped.

Rodney Sheets(RodWSheets@aol.com)


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:40:55 EST 1997
Article: 183527 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:50:16 GMT
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In article <330026F0.55D5@technix.com.au>, Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au says...
>
>So let me make sure I've got this clear.  When something says 8/4 maple,
>I can go and buy finished maple 38mm finished size (1.5 inch)?
>What this means is that I can simply treat each "unit" as 4.75mm 
>finished size.  Am I right?
>
>So here's my question.  How do I specify 4" finished size?  In
>Australia we would go and buy 100mm timber.  Would you ask 
>for 5.33?  Surely not... please tell me it's not like that...

See, you're only getting the secret code in little bits and pieces.
Say you want a finished piece 3/4" thick.  You buy 4/4, which _should_
measure somewhere between 1" and 1-1/8" thick, rough sawn.  If the
mill was generous, you can also usually get 7/8" boards out of 4/4.  If
the boss's daughter got married the day before, you can occasionally get
full 1" thickness out of it.  But if you want to make sure you'll be able
to get 1" boards, you have to buy 5/4 rough sawn.  And likewise, up the
ladder.

So if something says it requires 8/4 lumber, it probably means that the
surfaced board is going to measure somewhere around 1-3/4".  However...
plans and cut lists rarely list rough sawn sizes.  Just the finished size.
They say you need a 1-3/4" piece, so you buy some 8/4.

The /4 system is only used for hardwoods, and only as a reference for
rough sawn lumber.  Surfaced lumber is sold by actual thickness 
dimension, and if you buy it any other way, you're about to go for a
long ride down a short hill.

If you want 4" finished size, you could buy 17/4, though I've never seen
such a thing.  Frankly, I'd just go buy a tree.


-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:40:56 EST 1997
Article: 183528 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: New Yankee Workshop Router Table Plans
Message-ID: <01bc1862$e18b84d0$94883180@ifozdex>
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Just happen to have it here in front of me:

Call (800) 892-0110 for credit card any time

or write:

The New Yankee Workshop
PO Box 9345
So. Burlington, VT 05407-9345

Ask for the router table plans, they are $10. Or you can get it with video
for $25 plus shipping, I think (plans only price includes shipping).

gnwjr@primenet.com wrote in article
<32fea1dd.29076085@news.primenet.com>...
> Does anyone know how I can get a copy of the router table that Norm
> built



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:57 EST 1997
Article: 183529 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:56:58 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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I should've gone on to say - There are many factors (like everything)
that influence the speed that you'd choose. Ok, it's not just because at
high speed that you might burn the wood, or worse the bit, it's also the
speed at which you continue to move the router. You can set you router
to it's lowest speed and still burn stuff up. Try a rip or crosscut on a
TS, you must move the material at a rate that is consistent with the
capacity of the motor without overloading it, and not so slow that heat
builds up on the blade, least you burn the wood, or worse the WWII.
Whith your router it's a little more sensitive ( I believe) because if
you move the router to fast you'll get a rough cut and perhaps a lot of
tear out, just a little to slow (like inside corners) and you'll burn
the wood. I find it harder to provide a constant rate of travel with the
router. Not that I burn things up, but there's always those little
tale-tell signs to remind me. Nothing a little sandpaper doesn't fix.


From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:40:57 EST 1997
Article: 183530 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Subject: Re: Odd William Alden Happenings
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>  If someone sends you something unsolicited in the  US mail  you are
> under no obligation to return or pay for it.

True, but (and this is a guess on my part) if you order something and they
send the wrong item by mistake this may not be considered unsolicited.
Besides, you are correct--honesty is really the best thing! Cheers.

Andrew



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:58 EST 1997
Article: 183531 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:47:32 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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I don't know, but think about this. The copper wire is conductive and
when the static charge builds up on the PVC pipe (and we all know that
it does, and big time) to the point that it will travel, it will jump
onto the copper wire and travel back to the point that you've grounded
it. Thereby discharging the static buildup on the pipe. 

You may or may not know, that without this grounding system that you are
exposed to an expolsion or fire. This could happen when the air is full
of fine dust and a static charge JUMPS from the pipe to a metal surface
setting off a small spark in the process which ignites the dust - High
levels of fine dust are very volitle (sic).


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:40:59 EST 1997
Article: 183532 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:42:21 -0500
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It's kinda like a jointer or planer. The faster the bit turns the
cleaner the cut. Or the more knives and the faster = more cuts per inch
which equals CLEAN CUT. 
However you have to take into consideration the density of the material
and the size of the router bit. The softer the wood and the smaller the
bit the faster you can spin it and get a cleaner cut.


From gwatts@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:00 EST 1997
Article: 183533 of rec.woodworking
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From: gwatts@cv.hp.com (Gary Watts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltic Birch - How many layers?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:08:49 GMT
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bquan@arf.org wrote:
: Hello,

:   I've been trying to locate some good quality maple (veneered) plywood
: for a project. So far a visit to the local HD yielded 4x8 sheets of
: baltic birch with ~ 7 layers. My question is what is consider to be
: "high" grade ply suitable for cabinetry ? C-1, C-2? i.e. How many layers
: should I be looking for?

What you're looking at isn't Baltic Birch.  It's 1/8" standard fir plys with
a birch facing.  Most of this is A2 or A3 commonly.  Baltic Birch is all
birch plys that are around 1/16" giving 13 plys for a 3/4" sheet.  

To answer your first question though, A2 is commonly used for cabinet facings.

Gary Watts



From orjurgen@mailbox.syr.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:01 EST 1997
Article: 183534 of rec.woodworking
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From: orjurgen@newstand.syr.edu (Otto R. Jurgenson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wooden wheels
Date: 11 Feb 1997 20:35:06 GMT
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Tage frid's books have plans for a cart with wooden wheels
Rick Shelton (rshelton@wegener.com) wrote:
: I want to build a cart for my grill and would like to use wooden wheels,
: metal rim or not, instead of the "lawnmower type" metal wheels.  The
: cart would not be moved very much, just around the patio while cleaning,
: so metal rims may not be needed.  The grill weights ~150 lbs. so the
: wheels need to be rather sturdy, though.  Does anyone know of a source
: or, better yet, techniques or plans for building wooden wheels (~6-8"
: dia.) and mounting them on the cart.  

: Thanks 
:   
: -- 
: - Rick Shelton
: rshelton@wegener.com

--
OTTO R. JURGENSON               STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK
124-L REMINGTON AV.        COLLEGE OF ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE AND FORESTRY
SYRACUSE, NY 13210         312 BRAY HALL. 1 FORESTRY DRIVE
U.S.A                      SYRACUSE NY, 13210
TEL/FAX. (315) 422-9325

PHOTOGRAMMETRY-REMOTE SENSING

My opinions only.....  


From Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us Sat Feb 15 11:41:02 EST 1997
Article: 183535 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us (Kevin Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:47:51 GMT
Organization: No organization in my shop
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In article <5dlugo$igl$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>, 72406.3433@CompuServe.COM says...
>
>I can not find rec.crafts.woodturning either.  I am using 
>Compuserve for this newsgroup.  They do not seem to update the 
>newgroup server or I am missing something.
>         Jim J.

A common problem is that folks forget to request a new group list
>from  the news server.  It may be that all you have to do is to refresh
the list of groups and *prang*, it'll turn up.  I don't use Compuserve
so I don't know how they do this sort of thing, but I have seen this 
solution help others.

Hope it works for you...

...Kevin



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:03 EST 1997
Article: 183536 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:10:18 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5dqpio$sko@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>, jep@physics.purdue.edu says...

>Surfaced lumber is sold by actual thickness 
>dimension, and if you buy it any other way, you're about to go for a
>long ride down a short hill.

I know, I know... that should read: Surfaced HARDWOOD lumber...
-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From Mntngoat@Cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:04 EST 1997
Article: 183537 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Micheal L." <Mntngoat@Cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: AIRY Finish Nailers
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:08:55 -0800
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Does any one have any experience good or bad for the AIRY brand line of
nailers and staplers.  Since my SFN-1 was recently stolen along with
$3000.00 of others tools I am in the market for another nail gun but
cannot afford to pay for a Senco as I am trying to replace my other
tools as well.

Thank you
Michael
-- 
_________________________________
Ignorance is for some
a circumstance,
for some a choice,
yet some lacking any other talent,
Have raised it to an art-form!!



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:05 EST 1997
Article: 183538 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:07:54 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <3300D0F2.529@lmco.com>, chuck.steger@lmco.com says...
>
>It has been written about many times here in rec.ww but I have yet to
>see a definitive answer on why wrapping grounding wire around (outside
>of) PVC pipe will take static elctricity to ground. After all PVC is
>nonconductive pipe so why would wrapping the wire on the outside of the
>pipe work?
>   Lo and behold, the April 97 issue of "Wood" magazine states this very
>thing as one way of grounding using PVC pipe (the other way has rivets
>going into the pipe wall). However, they did not mention why this will
>work given the nonconductive properties of PVC.
>   Can anyone explain why this will work (I've written "Wood" with the
>same question but have not heard back from them yet)?
>-- 
>Chuck Steger
>Warrenton, VA  
>chuck.steger@lmco.com

The static charge builds *because* PVC is a non-conductor.  It's the
same effect as the old rabbit fur and acrylic rod demonstration. (Or the
latex balloon and your hair).  The wire collects the charge and allows it
to ground, which is something the PVC cannot do.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:06 EST 1997
Article: 183539 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: JDS Air-Tech 2000
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:00:20 -0500
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Well it would be recommeded that it be turned on in advance of the
sanding phase. I've set it up on a switch that controls the light over
my bench - thus I'll never forget to turn it on.

I haven't had it long enough to tell how well it'll do for the sanding
jobs - will know this this weekend.

My comment about 'works great' was a small testomonal (sic) to a test. I
knew the system was comming so I hadn't swept the shop for two weeks.
Last night I cleaned up the place - what I can tell you is that usually
I can hardly see through the place. I have concrete floors and anyone
who does knows what a cloud of dust you get when sweeping up.
There was dust to be seen in the air while sweeping and afterwards. I
could see it moving towards the Air-Tech. I left the system running, as
I plan to do after sanding operations and anytime I leave the shop, for
a couple of hours. I cleaned off the TS surface so I could see how much
dust would settle. I'd be lying if I said there was not a trace. I could
still draw a line in the fine dust that settled on the TS - HOWEVER it
was (how do you measure this kinda stuff) not 15% of what I'm used to
seeing. I always clean off my TS (just got it in Dec. The new JTAS-10
with the Xata Fence and I Love It!!! as a last item on the way out of
the shop. So I know the difference from two weeks ago. 
My wife and I are going to run another test this weekend. We're going to
dust down the furniture in the living room and bedroom on the first
floor on Fri. night. This weekend I'll be sanding my project (Hall Seat
on the cover of 'WOOD' magazine April 1995 issue) and observe how much
of the dust gets upstairs.
I hope it's greatly reduced, better be, I told her it would make a big
difference and I'm counting on it !!


From ejb@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:07 EST 1997
Article: 183540 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Bennett <ejb@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Quality Problem
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:40:21 -0800
Organization: .
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Andrew Patterson wrote:
> 
> > The fact is, I paid $799 for a saw and I expect it to be able to be
> > adjusted properly.
> 
> But this did not answer the question, which was, how precise is good
> enough? It is not possible to get to zero error, so there must be a
> tolerance value. What is "adjusted properly?"

I set out to answer that question about four years ago.  I did some 
experiments to determine how much misalignment could be tolerated before 
the quality/accuracy of the cuts was significantly effected.  The tools I 
used were:

     - Delta Unisaw with Unifence
     - Forrest WW II blade (sharp)
     - TS-Aligner

The wood was cherry.  I chose the Forrest blade because it's particularly 
sensitive to alignment but produces unbeatable cuts when properly 
aligned.  I chose cherry because it's one of my favorite woods and is 
prone to burning.  I chose the TS-Aligner to make the measurements 
between the blade and the miter slot.

I found that any misalignment over 0.005" would noticably affect the 
quality of the cut.  Burning started to occur at about 0.010" of 
misalignment.  I didn't push it to determine where the threat of a 
dangerous accident would occur.

So, to answer the question, if your saw is aligned to within 0.005" 
(miter slot to blade and fence to miter slot) then it's just fine.  Most 
good quality saws can do better and there's no reason not to if you are 
using an accurate alignment jig.  In my opinion, a good quality saw 
(like the Delta contractor's saw) that cannot be aligned to within 0.005" 
is worth going to the trouble of fixing.

-- 
Ed Bennett
ejb@primenet.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
http://www.primenet.com/~ejb


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:08 EST 1997
Article: 183541 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!NEWS!not-for-mail
From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: cedar deck preservation
Message-ID: <3300F1B0.4BDB@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:24:48 -0600
References: <3300E7C5.39BC@austin360.com>
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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slaton wrote:
> 
> Any of you guys had any pleasant experiences with deck preservatives.
> Everyone in the industry seems to sell "THE ABSOLUTE BEST".  Some truly
> awful. Any comments appreciated before I spray a nice new cedar deck
> with some crap.

All I can say is let me know when you find the "best".  I use CWF-UV and
it lasts 1 year and then I have to pressure wash and reseal.  I live in
the Midwest and it does take a beating.  If I ever build another, I'll
use green treated and let it go (or use concrete!).

BTW it looks GREAT for about 1-2 months after I seal it!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS - I am thinking of trying CWF or some Stain and then putting good old
fashion Thompsons to seal the prettiness of the CWF.  Lastly, my
neighbor tried Thompson WOOD sealer, looks like crap.

Good Luck.
DAmian



From dean@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:09 EST 1997
Article: 183542 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paige Dean <dean@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Unisaw, PMatic 68, etc for sale
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:01:02 -0600
Organization: Schlumberger
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For Sale:

Unisaw, 2 hp 3 ph $750.00
Ekstrom-Carlson overarm pin router model 327, 5hp, 3ph, 2 speed $1950.00
Rockwell 12" disc sander model 31-122 1hp 3ph $450.00
Crescent shaper 1 1/8" (I think) spindle 3hp 3ph $550.00
Oliver 12" lathe 1 hp 3 ph $400
Powermatic 12" table saw model 68 5 hp 3 ph $1750.00
Dustkop dust collector model 8N50-02 3/4 hp 3 ph approx 60 cfm $450.00

Call Terry Williamson at (713) 859-2219 in Houston or e-mail me


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:10 EST 1997
Article: 183543 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Avoiding kickback on TS.
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:09:20 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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I've never equated kickback with the type of cutting you're talking
about. I have however seen the little parts go flying, or explode as
they get traped in the throat plate.
To help this I installed a zero clearence throat plate. If you have a
dust collection system (here come the flames) this will reduce the
effectiveness of it as it's harder for all of the dust to get down into
the saw. This is more prevalient (sic) when ripping or cros cutting near
the edge/end of the wood. It which time most of the sawdust makes it way
off to the side instead of down into the throat plate.


From jaclifton@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:11 EST 1997
Article: 183544 of rec.woodworking
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From: jaclifton@mindspring.com (James A. Clifton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 23:29:57 GMT
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:34:45 -0600, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
wrote:

>Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
>oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
>Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?
>
>Thnx
>Damian
>

I've got A Ryobi oscillating sander and have no problem with noise,
which seems moderate.  I like it especially for the capacity to do
inside sanding.  Good luck -- Jim C.



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:11 EST 1997
Article: 183545 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: 11 Feb 1997 21:57:13 GMT
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In article <330088C3.167E@cray.com>, jshear@cray.com says...
>
>Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
>Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
>the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
>left of the blade.
>Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
>explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
>the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
>side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.

I think practically the only time I have the fence on the left is when
cutting miters and hopper joints.  It's much safer to have the board
above the blade, as it is when the fence is to the left, than the alternative.
Of course, that assumes that your arbor tilts clockwise, which most, but
not quite all, do.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete Sat Feb 15 11:41:12 EST 1997
Article: 183546 of rec.woodworking
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From: crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete (Ron Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:27:52 GMT
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Termite (bugs@sadust.hill.com) wrote:
: Ron - Cool. Tell us, does the fence have a micro adjustment on it? How
: long is the fence? Are the leading edges rounded off? Is it pre-drilled
: for attachment of a longer add-on fence if you would want to do this?
: How long is this fence?

It's a standard DeWalt product, DW6901, a "Parallel Fence with Fine
Fence Adjuster".  The bars are 11-3/4 in.  long and 5/16 inches in
diameter.  The length of the fine adjust threaded rod is 3-1/8 inches.

The fence face is broken into two areas separated by about 1" of space
in the shape of a 'U'.  Each 'face' has black plastic held in place by
two screws.  Each plastic piece is slightly rounded.  The total fence
length is just under 8-3/4 inches.  You can remove the plastic and
attach a 'homemade' fence.

If one extends the rods to their maximum it appears as if the fence is
about 9 or 10 inches from the center of the bit (guess alert!).  The
cost was $29.95 at Jerry's in Eugene, OR.  I don't know if that is a
'good buy' or not, but it's the only place I've seen one locally since I
purchased the router last month, but I admit I haven't been looking for
one, I just happened to see it while looking for something else.


--
Ron
remove the 'aaz' and
the '.delete' to email me


From goldr@frontiernet.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:13 EST 1997
Article: 183547 of rec.woodworking
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From: goldr@frontiernet.net (Richard Goldstein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: James David (Davis?) Designs Inc. <--- need to find
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:03:57 GMT
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Hi all,

I'm looking for a furniture manufacturer (for my boss) called  JAMES
DAVID (or DAVIS?) DESIGNS INC. which is supposed to be located
somewhere in the Carolinas.

If anybody has their address and/or phone number & could pass it along
I'd be very grateful!

Thanks,
   Richard


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:14 EST 1997
Article: 183548 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News)
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:18:16 GMT
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In article <32FF974E.4B68@worldnet.att.net> Drew Diaz <DDEdge@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte to this medium.
>
>basically, I'll never have the time to build the workbench I want & am 
>in the market for a ready made unit.
>
>Any suggestions???

Drew, I wouldn't completely discard the idea of making your own.

I've built a couple of relatively cheap ones.  The last one had a
base and frame built from scrap 4x4s and 2x4s, and a top built from
a sheet of 1/2" plywood ripped in half, halves doubled up, screwed
to the base, and then masonite contact-cemented to the plywood.  I
lag-bolted the base to a garage wall.  It was cheap, pretty stable,
but it wasn't pretty, and it didn't teach me any new skills.  It was
just fine for what I used it for, though, which was mostly small home
repair jobs & rough carpentry.

Now I'm trying to learn enough to do things like build nice furniture
>from  hardwoods.  I figured if I can't build a decent workbench, then I'd
better abandon hopes of making that nice chest of drawers in cherry...

Perhaps you should take a hard look at what you want to do.  If you're
where I was (repair & rough carpentry, and not planning or knowing how
to do more), then those fancy Euro-benches are way, way overkill
unless you have a lot of money to burn.

If you're where I am now (have ambition, need skills), then you
perhaps should take the time to do it yourself.  I looked at the
benches I could afford ($500 and under -- the Sjoberg products are
about $400, for example), and decided (exactly as Scott Landis says
in his book) that I could build more for that amount, and learn a
lot to boot.

I hear the siren-song of "buy it, save time", but if you're really
a neophyte, don't underestimate the value of what your spent time
would gain you...

(And if you're way ahead of me in the skills department, then it
really shouldn't take you that long to build a good bench anyways. :-)
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From gwatts@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:15 EST 1997
Article: 183549 of rec.woodworking
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From: gwatts@cv.hp.com (Gary Watts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cedar deck preservation
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:34:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
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slaton (wslaton@austin360.com) wrote:
: Any of you guys had any pleasant experiences with deck preservatives.  
: Everyone in the industry seems to sell "THE ABSOLUTE BEST".  Some truly 
: awful. Any comments appreciated before I spray a nice new cedar deck 
: with some crap.

Well, I'm interested also.  I built 2 different decks 1 1/2 years ago.  One
has SunFrog, a locally made (West Linn, OR) product.  The other was treated
with CWF-UV from the Flood company.  I also treated my new cedar fence with
the CWF-UV.  The Sun Frog treated deck isn't too bad but had darkened quite a
bit.  I also have a deck for the main entry that's covered overhead that
I treated twice with the SunFrog but it doesn't do well with heavy traffic
and has scuff marks from various peoples shoes.

The CWF-UV deck got off to a bad start.  The deck was properly dried but 
got a light rain on it before it dried.  It is water based so it didn't
dry and turned a milky white.  I called the company and they told me to
wait until next year, then retreat it.  I cleaned it with their deck
restorer (which didn't do anything on this deck) and reapplied.  This
was last summer.  Right now, it's got bare spots where the material
didn't soak in and therefore flaked off.  The remainder is beginning to
look aged but not particuliarly silver.

I'm not sure if the CWF-UV is part of the problem or if it was just the
initial application.  Anyway, I still don't have strong recommendation
on a brand name for sealing.  

I did read an article in one of the homebuilding mags like Fine Homebuilding
on finishes.  It was a research project from a University like Wisconsin
I think.  The conclusion for was a penetrating finish was far superior to
any kind of coating (sealer or paints) that merely coated the surface. 
With the present condition of my deck, I'm ready to just paint it!!!

Gary Watts



From davem@had.horiba.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:16 EST 1997
Article: 183550 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Misevich" <davem@had.horiba.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:33:17 GMT
Organization: ICNET... Your Link To The Internet... +1.313.998.0090
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snip...

>why wrapping grounding wire around (outside
> of) PVC pipe will take static elctricity to ground. After all PVC is
> nonconductive pipe so why would wrapping the wire on the outside of the
> pipe work?

I don't have much experience with static electricity, but at work we used
to test insulators with a step-up transformer. The process is called
Hi-Potting, and if you get the voltage high enough, even "nonconductors"
will allow electricity to flow through.

This could explain why static electricity (very high voltage, low power)
will dissipate through the wall of the PVC. This would be kind of like the
surge supressor on the power line of your computer.  There is a device in
there called a MOV that will not pass current until the voltage gets to a
certain level, and then it conducts and dissipates the voltage spike.

Dave


From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:17 EST 1997
Article: 183551 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: woodturning group
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:06:32 -0400
Organization: ServiceTech, Inc.
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In article <5dqfen$jjh@neptune.theplanet.co.uk>, Denis A. Regan
<dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk> wrote:

> Does anyone know where the woodturning newsgroup resides ? I was
> able to access it several months ago and then had problems with my
> computer. Since then I have had no success. I think it was
> previously in the ALT/REC/CRAFTS lists but not so for me now. Many
> thanks for any help.
>         Denis Regan, New Galloway, Scotland, UK
> 
>         dregn@haciendaden.prestel.co.uk

You should be able to see it at: rec.crafts.woodturning

-- 
Phil Rose


From SSRG01A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:18 EST 1997
Article: 183552 of rec.woodworking
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From: SSRG01A@prodigy.com (Harold Clemens)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1940's Craftsman drillpress repair
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:56:03 GMT
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Wayne    this maybe a drill press with the name companion or dunlap
call sears with the number on the plate and ask for help     they have an 
800
number that is to their parts department but it is nation wide 
i have a table model companion that i know that goes back to the 40's and 
it still in good operation     the only other place you may get help is 
if you tare the unit down and go to a place that sells bearings 


                                                          clem



From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:19 EST 1997
Article: 183553 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:14:44 GMT
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In article <haubert.110.000FB7AF@mbi.org>,
	haubert@mbi.org writes:
> In article <5do8u8$g91@fido.asd.sgi.com> mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) writes:
>>From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
>>Subject: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
>>Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:54:00 GMT
> 
> 
>>  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
>>wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
>>premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
>>that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
>>difference really is?
> 
> 
> These sound like made-up grades, but the difference should be obvious.  
> Cabinet grade plywood is usually flatter, has less voids, and is veneered with 
> a hardwood, ie birch, red oak, maple, etc.  Less-than-cabinet grade is classes 
> as AC, BC, CDX, etc., in descending order of quality, and is usually 100% 
> conifers.  You need only LOOK at the stuff to see if it is what you had in 
> mind.  I generally wouldn't make anything decent with anything less than 
> cabinet grade, if I were going to use plywood at all.
> 
> 3/4" Birch plywood around here is $40 a sheet;  3/4" BC is about $23.
> 
> Rich

   A lit more info may help, although I doubt it based upon what I've seen
posted so far. The plywood I'm refering to has a hardwood veneer on both sides.
It's not the cheap pine plywood. For example, the premium 3/4" birch costs
$68.80 a sheet. The carpenter's grade 3/4" birch costs $46.59. Similarly, for
red oak, the costs are $78.40 and $49.95 respectively. All of the employees
were busy with other customers so I wasn't able to ask them. Not that it
matters at the moment. My friend is trying to talk me into using pine for the
desk. He figures I'm going to screw it up royally and I'd be better off using
the cheap stuff. He's probably right too. :-) But I'm still curious for future
projects sake.

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:41:19 EST 1997
Article: 183554 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:25:00 +1100
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In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>, Abacab 
says...

snip
> 
> About the (metric) system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre of water
> weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar comparisons
> for lengths.
> I hope that makes sense to some, and I'm sure it will break open a huge
> argument with others.  I'm lucky enough to be at the age where I bounce
> back and forth between the two.  I favor metric for determining the
> weather, etc, and standard for woodworking and the gas usage of my car.
> 
> Take Care all,
> Dan Hamill
> Atlantic Canada
> 

I have received a lot of email responses so far on my original question 
and thanks to some of you, I am *much* better informed ... then again, 
>from  some others ... well ... er ... thanks anyway.

I agree with Dan (a Canadian) about the metric system.
Oz (that's Australia, not Austria) went metric in 1966 and it's the 
*best* thing we ever did.  Some advantages :
1.	Taking 10ml of medicine suddenly made sense
2.	Woodworking dimensions and calculations are simple ... 24 1/8" - 3 
3/4" = ??? ... no thanks!
3.	Simple calcs = less chance of error = a happier woodworker
4.	It annoys the heck out of you Yankees who are about the only 
people left in the world who use imperial measurement.
4.	um,
5.	um, um,
6.	I guess that's all.

Some disadvantages :
1.	We have to travel further to get from town A to town B. What used 
to be 50 miles is now 80 kilometres ;-)
2.	Can't think of any others.

The funny thing about our metrication 30 yrs ago is that, while there are 
people still alive who grew up with the imperial system, both systems of 
measurement are, generally, acceptable.  I go down to the local timber 
supplier to get some wood and ask for 3 metres of 2" by 1" ... and they 
understand!  When I get it home and start a project, there are *only* 
metric rules and micrometers to be found.  I wouldn't work in the 
imperial system ever again.

Reading plans and interpreting dimensions from the Yankee mags means that 
a calculator to convert imperial to metric is never more than a foot ... 
er ... I mean ... 304.8 millimetres away. 


Mike Hide (a yankee) wrote :
"I cant imagine why you Austrians adopted a french measurement system 
..."

"Austria"??  "Austria?"??   That's a very long way from where I live ... 
you yanks sure lead a sheltered life ... the world was once thought to be 
square and once you got to the edge of it you would fall off.  My 
suspicions that you guys are taught to believe that the edge of the world 
now coincides with the edge of the 48 contiguous states has been 
confirmed.
:-) ;-) :-)

Again, thanks for the informative responses.
-- 
Regards, Rick

To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From SSRG01A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:20 EST 1997
Article: 183555 of rec.woodworking
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From: SSRG01A@prodigy.com (Harold Clemens)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Lathe
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:12:49 GMT
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Mike      atlas was bought out years ago  by clausing  2019 n. pitcher 
st
kalamazoo mi 49001
i have a 12" atlas and can still get parts  they also have parts for your 
6" lathe      call the 800 operator for their number

                                                                clem



From whipple@krislyn.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:21 EST 1997
Article: 183556 of rec.woodworking
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From: whipple@krislyn.com (Sherman Whipple)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router used in router table
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 23:15:18 GMT
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:51:33 GMT, csmgc@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Mike Clayton)
wrote:

>When using a panel raising bit with a router in a table is the bit completely 
>outside the router base?  Or should you only buy bits that fit within the 
>inside diameter of your router's base?
>
Mike,

I don't know about your router table, but my base is removed to attach
the router to the table/plate.  Frankly, large diameter bits scare me
to death.  I had a rabbiting bit (the one with the set of different
diameter bearings) go ballistic a few years ago and bounce all over my
shop.

You may want to look at the panel raisers where the profile runs
lengthwise.  You have to run the panel on edge and will need a higher
fence, but it should be safer, slower rim speed, and the bearings in
the router will have less stress.

Good luck,

SW
Whipple, Sargent & Associates
Strategic Services
10 Industrial Park Road
Hingham, MA 02043
Phone: 617-740-4025  Fax: 617-749-9474
E-Mail: whipple@krislyn.com


From davidsloan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:22 EST 1997
Article: 183557 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:23:18 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<Can anyone point to a reputable British firm that provides a mail-order
service for woodworking tools (and possibly hardware)? >>

Your best bet is to pick up a copy of one of the British woodworking
magazines on the newstand:   Good Woodworking, Woodworker, Practical
Woodworking, Furniture & Cabinetmaking, etc.   All of the major UK
mail-order houses advertise in these magazines.

Many of these companies will also be exhibiting at the big, "Practical
Woodworking" Show at Wembley (London) February 27 through March 1.

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker magazine


From craig1708@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:23 EST 1997
Article: 183558 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:42:33 GMT
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Spar varnish refers to a long oil varnish and is usually meant for outside
as it never really dries.
To elaborate....a long oil varnish means that it has a higher percentage
of oil in relation to the resin content. This allows the coating to be
more flexible and weather better. It can not however take a polish
In contrast, short oil varnish is a lower percentage of oil to resin
content and is meant for interior applications. It dries harder and can
take a polish.
Furniture should use short oil, like Pratt&Lamberts #38,
exterior boat decks should use long, or spar, varnish.

Did that help??

Craig   
**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:41:24 EST 1997
Article: 183559 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:53:09 +1100
Organization: RTA
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[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the 
cited author.]

In article <32FED169.6D54@technix.com.au>, Andrew Tune says...

> Hi!
> 
> I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
> the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.
> 
> Can anyone point to a reputable British firm that provides a mail-order
> service for woodworking tools (and possibly hardware)?  Preferably
> (though not essentially) on the Internet...
> 
> Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
> intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be 
> cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
> compare.
> 
> Andrew.
> --
> Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
> Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
> Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
> Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
>               "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"
> 

Hi Andrew,

I have not sent to Britain for any stuff, but one address that keeps 
popping up in British magazines is 

Tools by Post
DEPT PW, Flex Meadows,
The Pinnacles, Harlow, Essex, CM19 5TJ
Tel. 1279 418333 Fax. 1279 418339

They don't advertise a www site, so probably can't be accessed that way.

I have irregularly sent to the States over many years for goods and 
books, the main reason being cost.  I can get items delivered to my front 
door, including postage and duties (if any), for less than the local shop 
prices.  I know I should support our economy by buying local, but I don't 
have that much money to spare.

I am currently looking to buy "The Workbench Book" by Landis.  The 
publisher's web site in the States tells me the book price, which, with 
postage is going to set me back about $(Aus)55.  I rang a woodworking 
shop in Sydney and they quoted $(Aus)75 ... and I get the added privelege 
of a 200 kilometre round trip just to pick it up!  The local guys 
will miss out.

>From  the prices quoted in British ads, and given the exchange rate, I 
don't see that there would be a saving for you.

Maybe you could let me know how you get on.
-- 
Regards, Rick

To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:25 EST 1997
Article: 183560 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Quality Problem
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:13:23 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
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References: <32F4EE75.38B4@gwis.com> <5d4std$als@cnn.Princeton.EDU> <32F670D5.4652@gwis.com> <32F78054.583@ccmail.bms.com> <32F7EC69.71EB@primenet.com> <32F8C82E.215E@ccmail.bms.com> <32F91B13.505B@gwis.com> <01bc17ca$f0d7abf0$94883180@ifozdex>
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Andrew Patterson wrote:
> 
> > The fact is, I paid $799 for a saw and I expect it to be able to be
> > adjusted properly.
> 
> But this did not answer the question, which was, how precise is good
> enough? It is not possible to get to zero error, so there must be a
> tolerance value. What is "adjusted properly?"

According to delta, 1/100" is within tolerance. According to other
sources, 2/1000" is what you should shoot for.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:26 EST 1997
Article: 183561 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:08:32 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
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To: RickM@mnsinc.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183561

RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:47:36 -0500, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
> wrote:
> 
> >Patrick L. Williams wrote:
> >>
> >> Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
> >> body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.
> >
> >It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
> >just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
> >was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
> >It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
> >use whatever the sponser dictates !
> >
> 
> I don't want to get into a Norm debate, but it's a fact that he uses
> several brands of routers, and he generally covers the nameplates on
> all his tools, even the sponsors.
> 

I certainly have not seen every episode but I've never seen him use any
router except PC. And besides, Norm covering up the labels on his Porter
Cable, Delta, and Lamello tools in the context of his audience is like
covering up the name plate on a '68 Mustang to an auto collector.

-Jaz


> Rick Marinelli
> rickm@mnsinc.com

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null Sat Feb 15 11:41:27 EST 1997
Article: 183562 of rec.woodworking
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From: jim mcnamara <csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:19:03 -0700
Organization: csi
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References: <5dqfma$otv$1@excalibur.flash.net>
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Tree limbs often have a lot of reaction wood,
which when used in projects causes all sorts of warping,
cracking, and checking.

jim mcnamara

Michael Brush wrote:
> 
> In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
> woodworking projects?  Any limitations? [snip]


From craig1708@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:28 EST 1997
Article: 183563 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:57:16 GMT
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One problem with furniture from the latter part of the 20thC. is that
manufactuers
have used such a wide variety of synthetic glues that no one answer is
available.
Vinegar (5% acetic acid) will breakdown a variety of glues like aliphatic
(Titebond) or polyvinyl acetates (Elmer's white glue) enough to persude
them apart, the trick being getting in direct contact with the glue, not
an easy task.
Steam, as mentioned earlier in regards to violins, works with hide glue,
which is what violin makers used, but I doubt the piece in question has
it.
I wish I could be more helpful, but I thought I would pass this info
along.



**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From craig1708@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:28 EST 1997
Article: 183564 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rottenstone
Date: 11 Feb 1997 23:59:55 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Depending on the finish you are polishing, water works well, as does a
light oil like baby oil. It acts as a lubricant keeping the rottenstone
>from  scratching the surface.
A small amount is all that is needed, just enough to wet the surface.


**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From diggins@umbc.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:29 EST 1997
Article: 183565 of rec.woodworking
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From: diggins@umbc.edu (Paul Diggins; Former ACS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Band Saw Selection
Date: 11 Feb 1997 17:59:49 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, Baltimore County
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    I've been wondering. It seems that most bandsaw reviews that I have
read tend to pick a catagory, then rate the saws based on these
criteria. This is normally a good thing, but when it comes to the wide
range of prices for bandsaws I don't think this is a reasonable way to
rate the saws.

    For instance in the Shopnotes review 5 saws were selected...based
partly on size, I guess since they were all 14" or 15" bandsaws...and
they did stay within a price range. My question is: Do most consumers
make purchase decisions this way? If I want to spend $600 - $700 on a new saw
and I allocate that much..will it really bother me if I get a saw that
is larger than I need since it will still do all that I want to do?

    You probably see where this is going. The Grizzly products are so
much cheaper that you can get a much larger saw, and from the looks of
things a better saw for less. So when you are comparing a set of saws,
wouldn't you tend to look at a grouping of saws like this:

14" Delta 28-283 
14" Jet WBS-14CS
16" or 18" Grizzly "whatever model numbers..they only have the 2"


   This is the decision I am trying to make. If anyone has any kind
of experience with these saws and can give me a little advice..I would
greatly appreciate it.


Thanks,

   Paul Diggins



From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:30 EST 1997
Article: 183566 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:17:59 GMT
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<<If you have a problem with delamination and you want to fix it right I
would use a little lacquer thinner in the problem area to expose
enough of it to do the necessary clean up of any foreign material and
give myself some room to work.>>

That is not good.  Do not ever use lacquer thinner to delaminate or flush
out spray equipment.  Lacquer thinner can leave an oily film which will
inhibit the new application of contact adhesive, and could lead to
delamination.  Use an approved solvent for any delaminating or flushing of
equipment.  You can use toluene if you want to use a flammable solvent or
1,1,1 trichloroethane (if you can still find it) or methylene chloride if
you want to use a N/F solvent.  These solvents are the main solvents used
in flammable and N/F contact adhesives to dissolve the neoprene into
solution.

If you do delaminate with solvent, you will want to give the material
several hours for the solvent to breath back out of the plywood or
particle board core.  Otherwise you will get solvent entrapment which will
lead to bubbling and/or edgelift.

<<Press the pieces back together, use a scrap of 2x4 and a hammer to
ensure you have good contact..>>

The correct method for pressure is a 3" J-roller.  A mallet by itself or
with a block is insufficient.  You must apply 25 lbs per sq. in. for
proper pressure.  The pressure applied by the head of the mallet spreads
out over the surface area of that mallet, plus you are not getting uniform
pressure in the surrounding area.  When a block is used with that mallet,
you are spreading out the pressure even further, resulting in lack of
pressure.  Let's say you use a block that is 4"X4" and hit it with a
mallet at 100 lbs. of pressure.  There are 16 sq. in. for that 100 lbs to
be dispersed, which means if it dispersed evenly, you would get 6.25
lbs/sq. in. of pressure.  This is inadequate.  However, the pressure is
not going to disperse evenly, you will get more in the middle of the block
where the mallet head hit and less pressure as it travels out to the edge
of the block.  USE A 3" J-ROLLER FOR PRESSURE.  The pressure is spread
along the very edge of the roller in contact with the surface, meaning you
press down with 75 lbs to achieve 25 lbs/sq. in.

<<Like someone alrady mentioned you needs two coats for best results.>>

Not necessarily.  If after applying the first coating of adhesive and
allowing it to dry, and when it is ready to index together, the adhesive
surface on both the HPL and the core is shiney, then you have applied
enough adhesive.  If however you have some dull areas, then you did not
apply enough adhesive, had soak in, or a combination of both.  Dull areas
would have to be re-applied and allowed to dry.  Double coating is usually
done on very porous substrates such as plywood, or on the edges of the
core.  The first coat acts as a sealer, preventing soak in of the second
coating.


Sticky Fingers


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:31 EST 1997
Article: 183567 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:16:25 GMT
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>Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
>tools as I had.
>
>When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
>tools to build things with.  
>
[snipped]

>Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
>Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
>making the tools we HAVE work better for us..... 
>
>Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
>dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
>days....but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....
>
>I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....
>
>Just my thoughts....
>
>Alan

You are right. I actually watched this show the other day. I learned
some. If I ever buy some of the tools he was using, I could apply
what I learned.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From aep@nosc.mil Sat Feb 15 11:41:32 EST 1997
Article: 183568 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Sears TS?
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> The thing was...when it was all said and done with the "nicer" fence
installed
> it was about $750.

I think all of Michael's comments were very good. I saw that saw a while
ago and it looks fairly nice (enough so I gave it a fairly close look) but
I decided the Delta Contractor Saw was better built, and for the same price
(maybe even a bit less, but very close) I got the Delta with 28" Biesmeyer
fence, which I like a lot.

As you point out, many people here like the Jet; all the comments from
local wood shops steered me to the Delta (and I looked at both).

Andrew



From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:33 EST 1997
Article: 183569 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending Formica
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:22:02 GMT
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<< I wasn't working with super tight radaii.>>

That is why.  If you were forming the radius of a kitchen countertop you
would have had a problem with getting proper heat the entire length of the
radius, and you would have had voids throughout the nose of the top.

Sticky Fingers


From Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us Sat Feb 15 11:41:34 EST 1997
Article: 183570 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us (Kevin Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:13:54 GMT
Organization: No organization in my shop
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Someone suggested several splits, one of which was 
"rec.woodworking.d".  I've seen several ".d" groups but don't know
what that represents.  Anybody wanna explain it?

TIA...

...Kevin



From Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us Sat Feb 15 11:41:35 EST 1997
Article: 183571 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us (Kevin Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gopher wood
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:11:00 GMT
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In article <19970208185100.NAA28255@ladder01.news.aol.com>, acroii@aol.com says...
>
>that's what I do when I need some.
>Is this a form of ebonics?
>Sorry
>
>Tom D

No - I think ebonics is that really hard, dense wood that you see
on musical instrument fret boards.

;-)

...Kevin



From sri00@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:36 EST 1997
Article: 183572 of rec.woodworking
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From: sri00@aol.com (SRI00)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Benchtop Jointer
Date: 12 Feb 1997 00:27:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I don't know the price of the benchtops, but I bought the Reliant deluxe
6" jointer at Woodworkers Wharehouse for about $340 and it is well built.
It has cast iron tables and fence. The fence on the deluxe is center mount
and very sturdy. I know it takes up more space than benctop models but
what good are they if they don't work. I mounted casters on mine and keep
it along the wall when not in use.


From john_scheffel@sj.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:37 EST 1997
Article: 183573 of rec.woodworking
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From: John N Scheffel <john_scheffel@sj.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bit height problem with FT2000 table mount
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:24:02 -0800
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co.
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Alan wrote:
> 
> Second... ANY (as far as I know) router once mounted on ANY surface
> will lose the depth used by the surface.  I don't know of a router
> who's chuck will stick out farther than its base.  (It's hard to be
> sure I know so little)
> 

I don't know of any plunge routers which can extend the collet
below the standard base plate, but some of the Porter Cable
"non-plunge" models will extend the bottom of the chuck about
1/4 inch below the base.  Two that I have checked for myself 
are the 690 (1.5 HP) and 7518 (3.5 HP 5 speed).  This makes 
them good choices for router table mounting.  There may be 
other non-plunge routers that can do this as well.

John Scheffel


From rr121249@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:38 EST 1997
Article: 183574 of rec.woodworking
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From: rr121249@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Turned Pens
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:00:23 GMT
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Rod Danner <danner@webnology.com> wrote:

>I enjoy making turned pens, as do many woodworkers.  They make great
>gifts, etc.  I find it a real nuisance to set up the drilling operation
>on my Shopsmith (I usually use horizontal boring).  Does anyone have any
>creative ideas for a jig to hold the blank for drilling?  I haven't come
>up with a good solution other than purchasing a sliding machinist's
>vise.  There was a fairly good idea in "Woodsmith", but it was only for
>one size of blank.  I like to use a wide variety of woods and sizes.
>
>Any Ideas would be appreciated.

Hi.
While I'm not using a Shopsmith but a Drill Press, I made a simple jig for
centering and holding the square pen blanks.  This jig holds the blanks
upright and centers them.  It seems to work for me and you may be able to
convert the idea to a horizontal postion.  (Never used a Shopsmith)

The jig is nothing more than a vertical wooden fence in the shape of an
inverted V, with the angle between the legs of 90 degrees mounted on a
sliding bed of plywood.  The sliding bed is mounted to a base with two
threaded rods running in two cutouts to allow front to back movement and
the ability to clamp the bed in place in relation ot the base.  
The vertical fence is nothing more than two pieces of 3/4 Plywood joined
at 90 degrees to each other and at 90 degrees to the base.  The squareness
(?) of the fence is very important, as if the fence is out of square with
the base or each other the drilling will not go straight.  I use a
replacable peice of plywood at the bottom of the fence for backing
purposes and to support the blank being drilled.  The height is just over
the height of the longest pen blank drilled plus 3/4" for the support
peice of wood.
There are a number of ways to hold the pen blanks while being drilled.  I
made a small piece of wood to hold the blank and is fastened to the fence
with screw knobs (Too cumbersome). You could use the hold-down type of
clamps (Too expensive), You could use a C-clamp (Too much pressure), Or,
You could use your finger pressure to hold the blank in place (A word
about shop safety :)) ) which I do now, which seems to work fine.
The reason the fence is mounted on a sliding bed is that the pen blanks
can be different thicknesses and you need to move the fence back and forth
to drill down the middle.  The sliding bed is secured by two screw down
knobs on 10-24 breadboard screws and ride in tow parallel slots in the
bed.

Bad ASCII Drawing   (Top view)

|                                                          | Base that
attaches to DP 
|              |                            |              | Sliding Bed
for fence 
|              |             /\             |              |Fence at 90
degrees  
|              |            /   \           |              |
|              |                            |              |
|                                                         |

Any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me.  Sorry about
being long winded.

Rick Rasmussen
rr121249@aol.com



From jlevin@paonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:39 EST 1997
Article: 183575 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
From: jlevin@paonline.com (John Levin)
Organization: Foobie Union
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In article <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com>, mikehide@mindspring.com says...

> Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
>which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
>[another wood ] of politicians . 

Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from squeaking.



From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:41:40 EST 1997
Article: 183576 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:49:52 -0500
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
> Tim Gillespie writes:
>
> >Dave wrote:
> >>
> >> Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >> HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >> over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> 
> >Yeah! I noticed. He must have changed his hair or something too, he
> >looks younger. Maybe its all that weight he has lost.
> 
> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
> less fancy tools.
> 
So just what is the scoop on "The New Yankee Workshop"?  Are new
episodes being produced and aired?  My PBS station isn't carrying it
anymore and they've moved "This Old House" and "Woodwright's Shop".
They also appear to have dropped "Hometime" but I really won't miss
that one.  There doesn't seem to be any mention of NYWS at WGBH's 
home page but PBS's page talks about the "ninth season" as if it
were airing new shows.  Anybody here REALLY know what's going on?

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu

P.S.  Please don't tell me I gotta buy a dish to get my Norm fix  :-)


From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:41 EST 1997
Article: 183577 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:54:56 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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Peter Lemmond wrote:
> 
> In article <5dp6f8$fq8@usenetz1.news.prodigy.com>, WLSM17A@prodigy.com (Wendell Diggs) writes:
> 
> >Drew Diaz <DDEdge@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> >>Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte to this medium.
> >>
> >>basically, I'll never have the time to build the workbench I want & am
> >>in the market for a ready made unit.
> >>
> >>Any suggestions???
> >
> >The workbench is probably the best tool you will ever buy, and also one
> >of the most expensive.  Buy a good stable and HEAVY bench and make
> >sure the vises are sound and the bench dogs can be replaced with wooden
> >ones.  Good benches can be ordered through Garrett Wade and Woodcraft
> >Supply Company but be sure to take out your credit card.
> >
> 
> Expensive? Sure, maybe. But compare the cost of a good quality bench
> (maybe $2,000 for a good sized Ulima?) to the cost of the PC you are
> using to read rec.wordworking! Remember that your expensive bench will
> give you a lifetime of use, compared to 3-5 years for most computer junk.
> 
> -Peter

Three to five years!  This machine I'm on is less than a year old and 
its already outdated.  Further it did cost about $2000.  I have a 
Unisaw, Delta Shaper, etc. which I have had for several years and could 
sell them tomorrow for more than I paid for them.  Good woodworking 
tools/machinery are the best buy on the market - they hold their value!

Roger


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:42 EST 1997
Article: 183578 of rec.woodworking
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From: bob6666 <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:54:50 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <33013F0A.3482@worldnet.att.net>
References: <32ffb575.2443005@News> <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com> <330116cb.0@news3.paonline.com>
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John Levin wrote:
> 
> In article <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com>, mikehide@mindspring.com says...
> 
> > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
> >[another wood ] of politicians .
> 
> Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from squeaking.

Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).


From rich@smalstep.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:41:43 EST 1997
Article: 183579 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:51:34 -0600
From: rich@smalstep.demon.co.uk
Subject: Mail-order companies
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855671595.1139@dejanews.com>
Reply-To: rich@smalstep.demon.co.uk
Organization: Deja News USENET Posting Service
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Hi,

I'm interested in finding recommendations for mail-order companies for
wood and furniture fixings/fixtures (e.g. drawer runners, handles etc.).

Preferably U.K.-based mail-order for the wood.

Also, does anybody have any experience with Grade Router bits? What
are they like compared to Trend?

Many thanks for any help,

Cheers,

Rich.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Rich Amos                         |
Reading, Berks, UK                | "Live long and prosper"
E-mail: rich@smalstep.demon.co.uk |

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From smartsignal@delphi.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:44 EST 1997
Article: 183580 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Nelson <smartsignal@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: B&D Workmate Bench
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 20:10:09 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <Z3JYAwJ.smartsignal@delphi.com>
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Heck, this is only an aside, but here goes: "The Workbench Book", by
Scott Landis, contains an entire chapter about the invention of the
Workmate by a Lotus (the car ) designer named Ron Hickman, and its
subsequent development by Black and Decker.
 
It is an interesting piece of engineering, and its success seemed
to follow the return to good fortune of Black and Decker, a company
which almost succeeded in digging itself a grave for its reputation
fifteen or twenty years ago through over zealous value engineering.


From psitter@erie.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:44 EST 1997
Article: 183581 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Sean P. Sitter" <psitter@erie.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.crafts.professional
Subject: wooden windows
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:58:32 -0500
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I am interested in building my own state of the art wooden windows. 
Does anyone know where I can find plans, hardware, advice on types of
wood, etc.. END please respond by E-mail and newsgroup.


From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:45 EST 1997
Article: 183582 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman router replacement
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:20:55 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
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In article <3300BD32.17D3@hp.com>,
	Doug Hood <doug_hood@hp.com> writes:
> Count me among the few (many?) to get the "EZ Lock mechanism" router
> replaced with the newer redesigned Craftsman routers. I took mine back
> today. I explained that I had discovered (through the newsgroups) that
> they had redesigned the locking mechanism, and that some folks had
> received replacements. I simply asked them to replace mine (the worse
> that could happen is that they would say "NO").    
> 
> Three observations:
> 
> 1. They replaced it with no questions asked
> 2. The shelves were nearly empty of 1.5 hp routers like the one I
> replaced
> 3. They retagged it for clearance. When I walked by the clearance table
> on the 
>    way out, there were at least two other routers there already. 
> 
> 
> The new mechanism appears much more solid. Thanks to all who took the
> time
> to alert the rest of us...
> 
> 
> doug

  What is the new mechanism?

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From steveg@nh.ultranet.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:46 EST 1997
Article: 183583 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Steven C. Griswold" <steveg@nh.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:25:09 GMT
Organization: Owner
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I have the Delta BOSS and it is wonderful.  Cast Iron top, excellent
quality and easy to use.  $199.00.  I thought it was better quality than
the Ryobi.

Steve

damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote in article
<32FF6A45.7A64@qgraph.com>...
> Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
> oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
> Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?
> 
> Thnx
> Damian
> 
> 


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:47 EST 1997
Article: 183584 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:22:37 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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To: Ron, Henderson
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183584

Ron,
Thanks for the information. I spoke with DeWalt this AM about these two
items (fence and height adj.) for the 621.
The guy told me that maybe in April they would ship!  I'm still trying
to decide if I want to wait that long - and still don't know how the
height adj. will work even then.
The guy told me that the way it'll work is that you plunge all the way
down and then lock the router down, place it in the table and then adj.
the height.  
HEY MAN - what's he been smoking??? Wonder who got the good stuff. Even
I know that once the router is locked (in any position) the adj. knob
can have no effect on the position of the motor. IF it does we're gonna
be in trouble.
Anyway, after I splained it 2 m, he said to me. It will work just like
the 625, they have sold thousands of them and everyone loves them and
they work great in tables.

I know nothing of the 625 other than what I've seen posted in the NG.
Anyone using this in a router table?
Does it in fact have a separate knob for adjusting the height when it's
in the table, as opposed to the fine adj. knob for setting the depth of
plunge?

The guy told me to take the 621 and put it in the table and try it
(????) and that I would then see how it worked. He said that when the
height adj. knob becomes available that it will attach directly onto the
existing knob on the router and that the only thing it does is make it
easier for you to reach the adjuster.

HELP !!!


From wilythek@netnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:48 EST 1997
Article: 183585 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Kapinski <wilythek@netnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: DeWalt 2 HP router
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:38:55 -0500
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Any and all comments on this new machine will be appreciated,
especially... should I buy it and at what price? Thanks Bill...


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:49 EST 1997
Article: 183586 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:36:14 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
Lines: 9
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183586

Ron,
Please help me understand just what you got when you bought the 'DeWalt
microadjust guide for the 614/615' 
Does this item in fact allow you to adjust the height of the bit (motor
position on the plunge rods) when the router is installed in a table?
 
Did it attach directly to the adjuster knob already on the 621?
Are you now using the 621 in a table? If so what type (if any) of
success (or problems) are you having ?


From b1munj63@pop1.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:41:50 EST 1997
Article: 183587 of rec.woodworking
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From: yvan & debi lacroix <b1munj63@pop1.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for a dust filtration unit?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:16:51 GMT
Organization: Sympatico
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183587

rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) wrote:
>(By this I don't mean a dust collector, but the kind of fan-in-a-box
>unit that typically gets hung from the ceiling, to remove fine dust
>from the air.  For now, I can live with a shop-vac and sweeping up,
>but the fines are killing me.  Well, more like my wife will kill me
>if I don't put a stop to them.)
>
>I've seen some commercial units, and I believe I've seen a kit in
>(I think) the Woodsmith catalog that included the blower.  To save
>money, I'd like to try scrounging a used motor and building one from
>scratch.
>
>Is it as simple as building a box with a switch? :-/  Are there gotchas
>I should avoid?  (Beyond things like building a box too small for the
>motor, obviously. :)  Anyone done this recently?  Or seen plans for
>something like this?  Thanks in advance!
>-- 
>---
>All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
> sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
> "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less
Steve.  
I built mine using 8 4" computer fans ($2.00 each surplus) that 
develope 80 cfm each. They are very quiet and I was able to 
orient them in different directions to promote air circulation. 
As for filters I use furnace filters for the primaries and the 
flat & square automotive air filters used in the newer cars for 
the main filters. My box is 12" x 24"x 30" with 2 12x24" filters 
and 4 5x11" car filters. It works great and cost me $60.00 total.

If you need more detail E-mail me at yvan.lacroix@sympatico.ca

Thank you     Yvan  



From smartsignal@delphi.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:51 EST 1997
Article: 183588 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Nelson <smartsignal@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 220 help
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 20:49:48 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <ZVF5YWE.smartsignal@delphi.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183588

ngised <ngised@ix.netcom.com> writes:
 
>follows:   -   - the electrician told me that this was code,but my 
>
>             0
 
That's a 20 Amp receptical.
 
>welder has a plug config as follows:    \    /
>
>                                           
>
>                                           |
 
That plug type handles thirty to fifty amps.  You find these on electric
clothes dryers and electric stoves - as well as welders.
 
The conductors required for twenty amp circuits, 12 AWG, will not
handle thirty or fifty amp currents, so you need to do more than
change the receptical.
 
Your old house was also more up to date in complying with the current
National Electric Code, in that both a grounded neutral conductor AND
n equipment grounding ( safety ) conductor were supplied to each
box, in addition to the two hot conductors supplying 240V to your
appliance.


From phonore@eastconn.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:52 EST 1997
Article: 183589 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Honore <phonore@eastconn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Selection
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:58:46 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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diggins@umbc.edu (Paul Diggins; Former ACS) wrote:
>
>    I've been wondering. It seems that most bandsaw reviews that I have
>read tend to pick a catagory, then rate the saws based on these
>criteria. This is normally a good thing, but when it comes to the wide
>range of prices for bandsaws I don't think this is a reasonable way to
>rate the saws.
>
>    For instance in the Shopnotes review 5 saws were selected...based
>partly on size, I guess since they were all 14" or 15" bandsaws...and
>they did stay within a price range. My question is: Do most consumers
>make purchase decisions this way? If I want to spend $600 - $700 on a new saw
>and I allocate that much..will it really bother me if I get a saw that
>is larger than I need since it will still do all that I want to do?
>
>    You probably see where this is going. The Grizzly products are so
>much cheaper that you can get a much larger saw, and from the looks of
>things a better saw for less. So when you are comparing a set of saws,
>wouldn't you tend to look at a grouping of saws like this:
>
>14" Delta 28-283 
>14" Jet WBS-14CS
>16" or 18" Grizzly "whatever model numbers..they only have the 2"
>
>
>   This is the decision I am trying to make. If anyone has any kind
>of experience with these saws and can give me a little advice..I would
>greatly appreciate it.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>   Paul Diggins
>
I just bought the Reliant 16"  ( on sale at Woodwkrs Wrhouse for $449)
I think its a good value - has a 9" depth of cut (no need for riser blocks)
and a 1 1/2 hp motor.  Comes with rip fence.  I haven't had a problem
with it yet.  Castings probably aren't as good as Delta, but its less than half the price

Paul Honore
phonore@ix.netcom.com



From Gloria@statue.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:52 EST 1997
Article: 183590 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ncar!news-out.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!not-for-mail
From: Gloria Orlandi <Gloria@statue.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wanted : Rabit Plane Fence
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:57:36 -0600
Organization: Orlandi Statuary
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I recently picked up a relativitely new Stanley #78 Rabit plane missing
the fence.  Can anyone tell me how to get one or how to get ahold of
Stanley on the Web?

Any info is appreciated.



From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:53 EST 1997
Article: 183591 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.webspan.net!usenet
From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:40:40 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <33012DA7.7DC1@webspan.net>
References: <32f98fdb.5612587@news.alt.net> <797d285947@millard.demon.co.uk> <water-1002971018410001@sl56.tznet.com> <32FFFEAE.5E18@cedar-rapids.net>
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To: abraham@cedar-rapids.net
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183591

abraham@cedar-rapids.net wrote:
> 
> I recently posted a message and requested E-mail only responses because
> every time I return to rec.WW, my post always disappears within a day or
> sometimes even hours. I know I must be doing something wrong, but I
> don't request this beacuse I'm lazy, just inexperienced with the
> functions of the newsgroup.

When I reply to a post I always post it in the newsgroup, as well as
attempt to send it to the person I am responding to, unless the e-mail
address is bogus. It is a simple courtesy that is no skin off my nose. I
expect the same. What if  your or my news server is down for a couple of
days? People have such thin skin.

I think that it's worth repeating that it is helpful to those of us who
like to peruse this newsgroup to quote at least some relevant portion
(if not the entire post) of the post you are responding to for the
purpose of context. That is a simple courtesy to those who have not had
a chance to read the original. Once again, context helps.
-- 
Daniel


From pat24@webtv.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:54 EST 1997
Article: 183592 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:21:36 -0600
From: pat24@webtv.net
Subject: Kitchen Set for sale
Newsgroups: alt.forsale,rec.food.cooking,rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855713960.30456@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Feb 12 02:19:20 1997 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.forsale:18455 rec.food.cooking:323794 rec.woodworking:183592

KITCHEN TABLE FOR SALE

BEAUTIFUL SOLID ROCK MAPLE PEDESTAL

TABLE(OVAL) W/4 MATCHING NEW WINDSOR

STYLE CHAIRS AND 1 LEAF.

CONTACT ME VIA E-MAIL$350.00 OBO

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mark.hodges@west.sun.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:55 EST 1997
Article: 183593 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!rutgers.rutgers.edu!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!newsworthy.West.Sun.COM!actiniummac.west.sun.com!user
From: mark.hodges@west.sun.com (Mark Hodges)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet Benchtop Planer
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:24:25 -0800
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <mark.hodges-1102971824250001@actiniummac.west.sun.com>
References: <5d55qt$t62$1@news.nyu.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183593

My local dealer (who handles Jet and Delta) says that both of the new
planers (from Delta and Jet) are coming from the same factory, and so far
both are having quality control problems, so no release date.


Mark




In article <5d55qt$t62$1@news.nyu.edu>, Kent FItzgerald
<kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu> wrote:

> >Any comments on the Jet 12" benchtop planer would be welcomed. I am
> >considering that unit, based on price and features, it looked like it
> >was a good buy at the William Alden site at $319... is there any better
> >benchtop unit out there for less than $400?
> 
> 
> Depends which Jet 12" planer. What I didn't know until about 10 minutes
> ago is that there are two different models. The one that Wm. Alden has on
> their web site is the JWP-12, which is recognizable by the large height
> adjustment handwheel on the side. 
> 
> According to the Wood magazine review (Nov. '96), there is supposed to be
> a new Jet model, the JWP-12 4P (4 post), which has the height crank on
> top and a smooth bed (no rollers). This was one of the better rated
> machines in the test, but it doesn't appear to be on the market yet. In
> fact, Jet doesn't even acknowledge that it exists in their catalog.
> 
> Confused? I am. Then there's the much-rumored new Delta, which just might
> be out within this century....
> 
> Kent
> 
> ______________________________________________
> Kent Fitzgerald           kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu
> Center for Neural Science, New York University


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:56 EST 1997
Article: 183594 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.webspan.net!usenet
From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:49:59 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <33012FD5.937@webspan.net>
References: <E5Fq6n.D27@yc.estec.esa.nl>
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To: Charles Stroom <charles@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183594

Charles Stroom wrote:
> 
> In one of the latest FWW's 'spar varnish' was mentioned.  What
> is it?  I could not find a good translation in the dictionaries
> or Webster I have.

Spar varnish is a soft yet tough varnish which, because it is not so
brittle as a table-top varnish, does not crack or check as woods which
are outdoors expand and contract. UV inhibiters slow down the oxidation
process that the finish undergoes because of its exposure to the sun.

It does not make a good finish for a table because of its softness. 
-- 
Daniel


From rammert@sprintmail.com Sat Feb 15 11:41:57 EST 1997
Article: 183595 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!mr.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-13.sprintlink.net!nntp.sprintmail.com!news@sprintmail.com
From: rammert@sprintmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Removing Dark stain From wood Beams, doors and trim
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:00:23 -0700
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
Lines: 11
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I have just purchased a house which is about 15 years old.  Back then
the in style seemed to use very dark stain or varnish on all of the wood
(doors, trim and beams).  I would like to remove the dark colored stain
and give the wood a lighter, natural wood look.  Are there any products
that would remove the stain/varnish and bring back the natural color of
the wood?  Is sanding my best option on a large, rough, wood beam (I
think it is cedar but the stain is too dark to tell for sure).  Should I
give up and just paint everything white?  Help!!

Thanks.
RT


From Tim Taylor Sat Feb 15 11:41:57 EST 1997
Article: 183596 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!daryl.scsn.net!news
From: Tim Taylor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 05:36:05 GMT
Organization: South Carolina SuperNet, Inc.
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I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood that
have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type? Unfortunately
my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   


From ralph@csrlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:58 EST 1997
Article: 183597 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news-out.microserve.net!news-in.microserve.net!not-for-mail
From: ralph@csrlink.net (Ralph Neely)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HVLP
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:54:08 GMT
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 Does anyone have any experience with the 
Wagner Fine Coat  sprayer.
              			thanks	
				Ralph



From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:41:59 EST 1997
Article: 183598 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!rutgers.rutgers.edu!news.columbia.edu!panix!newsgate.nytimes.com!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.webspan.net!usenet
From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood finish care question
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:02:48 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <330132D5.67AB@webspan.net>
References: <32FEA9E5.2623@flash.net> <32FF16AC.34EB@sympatico.ca> <33021553.45243049@news.aracnet.com>
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Steve Knight wrote:
> 
> Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 
> >lostchld@flash.net wrote:
> >>
> 
> >> The question came up when we aquired a 1936 student desk.  It would seem
> >> to need moisture in the wood since I'm certain it hasn't seen any
> >> regular care, and probably quite a bit of abuse.  Any thoughts on the
> >> subject?
> 
> Wood does not need "moisture" added too it. Oil would not do that
> anyway. This is all hype that furniture polish companies promote to
> seel almost worthless product. All Polish does is make the piece smell
> good and make it slippery. So things tend to slide off not dig in. Any
> oil only works on bare wood or wood with oil and or wax.

More important is that furniture polishes which are milky white and need
to be shaken are emulsifications which have the ability to remove
fingerprints and body oils on finished surfaces which over a long period
of time can soften a finish (look at many banisters: that gunk is a
combination of your softened finish and grime. Yuk! Check out the worn
finish near drawer and door pulls. Are fingertips are not that abrasive
-- unless you are a safecracker -- that we abrade the finish. Once again
the culprit is a chemical interaction of our oils, or harsh soaps,
softening and waring away the finish).

Is polish like Weiman's, Guardsman, Endust or even Pledge (which has a
60% market share!) as "worthless" as stated above? Not given what I said
about a polish's ability to clean without damaging the finish (Guardsman
recommends using it no more than once a month which would lead you to
believe that the emulsifiers (they break up grease and oils so that they
can be carried away by the water that is in most of these polishes) in
it has a high enough alkilinity that this type of care is needed.
-- 
Daniel


From riguy36@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:00 EST 1997
Article: 183599 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!newstf02.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: riguy36@aol.com (RIguy36)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: plans
Date: 12 Feb 1997 03:01:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183599

I am looking for some project ideas and if any body has some decent
furniture plans I would really be thankful. Entertainment centers, blanket
chests, coffee tables, mirrors......pretty much anything. Thanks!
e-mail address is : RIguy36@aol.com


From crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete Sat Feb 15 11:42:01 EST 1997
Article: 183600 of rec.woodworking
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From: crh@cvaaz.hp.com.delete (Ron Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 02:56:51 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
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Termite (bugs@sadust.hill.com) wrote:
: Ron,
: Please help me understand just what you got when you bought the 'DeWalt
: microadjust guide for the 614/615' 
: Does this item in fact allow you to adjust the height of the bit (motor
: position on the plunge rods) when the router is installed in a table?
:  
: Did it attach directly to the adjuster knob already on the 621?
: Are you now using the 621 in a table? If so what type (if any) of
: success (or problems) are you having ?

It's an edge guide fence, i.e.  for routing a groove a set distance from
the edge of a board.  It doesn't involve the plunge height adjustment.
We'll have to wait for DeWalt to introduce that device.  Last I heard it
was Feb/Mar, then Mar/Apr and now I hear April.

--
Ron
remove the 'aaz' and
the '.delete' to email me


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:42:02 EST 1997
Article: 183601 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!yuma!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!slider.bme.ri.ccf.org!kira.cc.uakron.edu!VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU!D1SAR
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Still Recommend FT2000E plunge router as the best???
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 97 23:05:11 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <17B0E144A9S86.D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183601

In article <19970206172601.MAA09179@ladder01.news.aol.com>
sra817@aol.com (Sra817) writes:
 
>I just bought the FT2000E myself and haven't used it much, but I do own
>alot of 1/4 inch bits. You say it "spits out these bits". Man!, I hope my
>doesn't.
>Are you aligning the slits in the 1/4 inch collet  with the slits in the
>1/2 inch collet as per instruction booklet?
 
I have had this router over a year with no problems. Never had a 1/4" bit
come out. The router is in a table and used hand held. If you don't like the
1/4" adapter get a true 1/4" collet from Freud. Keep the router clean and
make sure sawdust does not build up in the collet. The router should last
a long time if maintained.
 


From woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:03 EST 1997
Article: 183602 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net (Richard  Absher)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:23:25 GMT
Organization: Infinet
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <5dr9jm$dto$1@mh002.infi.net>
References: <5dqfma$otv$1@excalibur.flash.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183602

Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net> wrote:

>In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
>woodworking projects?  Any limitations?  Courtesy of a storm, I have an
>oak limb with some 8-10 feet of fairly straight wood averaging about 8" 
>in diameter and I'd prefer not to use it for firewood if it can be turned
>into useful, small lumber. Thanks in advance.
>Mike
I use wood like this for small fretwork projects and have had very
good results with it.  I don't have any idea how it would work in
other projects though.


Richard Absher            "There's no telling what we can create 
woodwkn@roanoke.infi.net  if we give God the credit."-Tricia Wilhoit
Christiansburg, VA             
USA                            

My new web site under construction at: 
     http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/5510/index.htm
The Woodcarver's Listserver:
      http://www.terranet.ab.ca:80/~bjudt/WoodcarverList.html
The Scrolling List-- Send command "SUB SCROLLING-LIST (YOUR NAME)" 
                     without quotes to :
		     LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ACSU.BUFFALO.EDU



From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:03 EST 1997
Article: 183603 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!Marty Escarcega
From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WTB: Shaper Cutters 1/2" -1"
Date: 11 Feb 1997 19:55:36 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183603


I recently got a shaper and thought to post here to see if anyone had some 
good used shaper cutters they might want to get rid of. If so, drop me e-mail 
with what you have and how much you want. Like to get a couple few to get 
started with. I'll then buy as I need. Just wondering if someone had some they 
don't use or use much anymore.

Happy Woodworking and thanks.
Marty


From changes@bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:04 EST 1997
Article: 183604 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feeder.chicago.cic.net!news.bright.net!news
From: changes@bright.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shaker Tall Clock Blueprint Help
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:41:13 -0800
Organization: bright.net
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Message-ID: <33016609.70DE@bright.net>
References: <01bc17f4$64924d60$a2eb93cf@default>
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To: Richard Walko <richwalko@worldnet.att.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183604

Richard Walko wrote:
> 
> A friend is searching for Mason and Sullivan's blueprint # 0112X, Shaker
> Tall Clock.  The Mason and Sullivan company went out of business about four
> years ago.  Some drawing that my friend has been able to get of a museum
> original do not have enough detail.  Does anybody have these blueprints or
> know where they might be available?
> 
> Thanks,
> Rich Walko

It is in the Moser book: "Making Shaker Furniture."


From jwcercis@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:05 EST 1997
Article: 183605 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 03:24:18 GMT
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So what is the telephone number for the B&D/DeWalt service center????

Mill


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:42:06 EST 1997
Article: 183606 of rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
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In article <3300FE67.441E@coopserv.com.null>, jim mcnamara
<csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null> wrote:
> 
> Tree limbs often have a lot of reaction wood,
> which when used in projects causes all sorts of warping,
> cracking, and checking.
> 
> jim mcnamara
> 
> Michael Brush wrote:
> > 
> > In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
> > woodworking projects?  Any limitations? [snip]

True enough, reaction wood can be a bad thing.  BUT, long ago shipwrights
and wagonwrights and a few otherwrights used to go out into the woods with
the fellers and sawyers, and help identify trees that had particularly
useful knees and groins, and make sure those got into the woodlot.    Ships
need lots of knees to help support the deck beams, without the amount of
lost space that a "standard" 45 degree brace would take.   So they used
well seasoned knees that attached to the inside of the rib and the bottom
of the deck beam.  Same with "prairie schooners", and a lot of other
wagons.   You can also find knees and groins in some English timber framing
>from  the 1400 to 1700s.

Also, don' turn up your nose at limbs, when you are turning wood *grin*.  I
have made lots of weedpots and saltshakers and meat mallets and
candlesticks and whoknowswhat out of limbs.   I DON'T make things that need
to remain straight and true +/- 0.01 inch out of a limb,  but there are a
zillion things that can work even if they undergo a little warping.   Who
cares if a captured ring baby rattle is a little bit twisted?  I call it
"character" and up the price 10%.  *grin*

Also, limbs can afford pegs, if you are into pegging things.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From cring@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:07 EST 1997
Article: 183607 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:14:21 -0700
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RIguy36 wrote:
> 
> I am looking for some project ideas and if any body has some decent
> furniture plans I would really be thankful. Entertainment centers, blanket
> chests, coffee tables, mirrors......pretty much anything. Thanks!
> e-mail address is : RIguy36@aol.com

Try this for some of the things you asked for and more
http://theoak.com/gary/index.html
Good luck
-- 
C.E."Chuck"Ring
Madera Encantada "Enchanted Wood"
e-mail to:cring@concentric.net
<http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html>




From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:08 EST 1997
Article: 183608 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
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Subject: Re: ADULTS ONLY- Check this out!
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Ditto last reply


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:08 EST 1997
Article: 183609 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Col
Date: 12 Feb 1997 03:37:28 GMT
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I has largely to do with the fact that although the pipe is not a
conductor, it can still build and hold a charge. Just like your carpeting
is not a conductor, it can also build a charge. Static charge tends to
build or accumulate on the surface of an object, thus wrapping the pipe
will help to "drain off" any charge which begins to build on the surface.
You're not using the pipe as a conductor. What surprises me is that no one
has introduced anti-staitc pipe. Let's face it PVC may well be easier to
use and install than metal and it isn't that tough to make plastic
conductive by adding carbon black to the formula. Maybe not enough demand?


From colinml@rt66.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:09 EST 1997
Article: 183610 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 18:55:42 -0700
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John Paquay wrote:

> cutting miters and hopper joints.  

Ok, I gotta ask:  What's a "hopper" joint?
-Colin


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:10 EST 1997
Article: 183611 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltic Birch - How many layers?
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You didn't mention the thickness you bought, but if it was 3/4", it was
not Baltic Birch with 7 layers. In fact, if you got it at Home Depot, it
was not baltic birch. It may have been birch plywood. Baltic Birch has 13
layers in 3/4", has a different spec for inner structure (no voids
allowed) and (in my area) is sold only in 5 X 5 sheets. They cost me about
$50 for 5 X 5.


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:11 EST 1997
Article: 183612 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 03:54:32 GMT
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:21:28 GMT, adamson@enter.net (John Adamson)
wrote:

>  Is there anything that can break
>the glue bond without destroying the wood or the surrounding finish?
>(Although most of the area surrounding the joints is not visible) The
>wood is "solid core" with an oak finish; the furniture was
>manufactured in the late 1970's.  A friend suggested vinegar.  

Doubt that it is hide glue, given the age of the piece, but won't hurt
to try this traditional trick just in case (learned from a Bob Flexner
video on furniture repair):   A small amount of solvent alcohol wicked
into the joint (or injected through a tiny drilled holes, will
instantly crystalize the glue so that it will fracture apart when the
joint is gently tapped with a deadblow hammer.  If you try this, test
the finish first to make sure it isn't dissolved by alcohol. dcr


From spleonard@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:12 EST 1997
Article: 183613 of rec.woodworking
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From: spleonard@earthlink.net (Stephen Leonard)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accessories for Bosch 1613evs??????
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 02:44:34 GMT
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In article <32FFEE37.1B40@frontiernet.net>, wsmith@frontiernet.net wrote:
>Anybody know where I can get edge guides and other stuff for the Bosch
>1613evs. I bought it at HomeDepot but they can't order
>parts..................Thanks...........Wayne

I just ordered some accessories from Woodcraft, 1-800-225-1153 for my Bosch 
1613evs. the quick change template guides were $9.99 each, a vacuum attachment
runs $12.99. Good luck!

Steve


From jdroland@execpc.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:13 EST 1997
Article: 183614 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jimmy D. Roland" <jdroland@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Are old sears tools bad??
Date: 12 Feb 1997 03:48:24 GMT
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC1865.6184FC00
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The problem with older Craftsman and Sears tools are that if the vintage is
over 10 years old you may not be able to get critical parts for them.   I
have a 1954 9" table saw that my father bought new to build the family
home.  It has has been well cared for and is very servicable.  I borrowed a
friends 1965 Craftsman RAS once.  He hadn't used in in 10 years and it had
pretty much seized up.  I did get it working with WD 40 and guts (then he
had an interest in it, the original deal was borrow, and dad taught me to
return tools in the same or better condition.  Yes, if he borrowed a tool
he return the original cutter and the new cutter he bought for his
project.)  The saw was missing some parts and Sears no longer carried them.

Personally, if they are clean, complete, and servicable pieces of
stationary equipment with cast iron and the cost is not over 30 percent of
my desirable piece of equipment.  I consider my bank account and make a gut
decision.  If it is for the same piece and it was made by a Rockwell/Delta
50 percent of new is an easy for a complete piece (I know I can get parts
and manuals).  

jim


Wayne Corrie <wayne2@home.com> wrote in article <33009F59.7F5F@home.com>...
> Are all of the old Craftsman wood tools bad?  I know full well that the
> new ones are "Crapsman", but what about the stuff made back in the 40's
> and 50's??
> 
> Wayne Corrie
> 
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1865.6184FC00
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#B8B8B8"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">The problem with older Craftsman and =
Sears tools are that if the vintage is over 10 years old you may not be =
able to get critical parts for them. &nbsp;&nbsp;I have a 1954 9&quot; =
table saw that my father bought new to build the family home. &nbsp;It =
has has been well cared for and is very servicable. &nbsp;I borrowed a =
friends 1965 Craftsman RAS once. &nbsp;He hadn't used in in 10 years and =
it had pretty much seized up. &nbsp;I did get it working with WD 40 and =
guts (then he had an interest in it, the original deal was borrow, and =
dad taught me to return tools in the same or better condition. =
&nbsp;Yes, if he borrowed a tool he return the original cutter and the =
new cutter he bought for his project.) &nbsp;The saw was missing some =
parts and Sears no longer carried them.<br><br>Personally, if they are =
clean, complete, and servicable pieces of stationary equipment with cast =
iron and the cost is not over 30 percent of my desirable piece of =
equipment. &nbsp;I consider my bank account and make a gut decision. =
&nbsp;If it is for the same piece and it was made by a Rockwell/Delta 50 =
percent of new is an easy for a complete piece (I know I can get parts =
and manuals). &nbsp;<br><br>jim<br><br><br>Wayne Corrie &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>wayne2@home.com</u><font color=3D"#000000">&gt; =
wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>33009F59.7F5F@home.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; Are all of the old Craftsman wood =
tools bad? &nbsp;I know full well that the<br>&gt; new ones are =
&quot;Crapsman&quot;, but what about the stuff made back in the =
40's<br>&gt; and 50's??<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Wayne Corrie<br>&gt; </p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1865.6184FC00--



From skip@applogic.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:14 EST 1997
Article: 183615 of rec.woodworking
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From: Skip <skip@applogic.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:52:54 -0500
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Chuck Steger wrote:
> 
> It has been written about many times here in rec.ww but I have yet to
> see a definitive answer on why wrapping grounding wire around (outside
> of) PVC pipe will take static elctricity to ground. After all PVC is
> nonconductive pipe so why would wrapping the wire on the outside of the
> pipe work?
>    Lo and behold, the April 97 issue of "Wood" magazine states this very
> thing as one way of grounding using PVC pipe (the other way has rivets
> going into the pipe wall). However, they did not mention why this will
> work given the nonconductive properties of PVC.
>    Can anyone explain why this will work (I've written "Wood" with the
> same question but have not heard back from them yet)?
> --
> Chuck Steger
> Warrenton, VA
> chuck.steger@lmco.com

It's a capacitive effect, which builds up a charge on the outside as a
charge is building on the inside. The dust inside is building the
charge, so a wire is needed inside, and for small areas that may build a
charge (like on the opposite wall from where the wire happens to be),
the outside wire dissipates any outside charge before arcing to some
grounded thing in the shop happens. The outside wire in use is really
overkill though (IMO) and I've had no trouble running with only an
interior wire, testing the outside for buildup shows none occurring.

Skip


From neuron@rtt@synapse.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:15 EST 1997
Article: 183616 of rec.woodworking
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From: neuron@rtt@synapse.net (Richard Tomkins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Craftsman Radial part required
Date: 12 Feb 1997 03:58:13 GMT
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My fathers Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw Model # 113.29461 has developed
a crack
in the top half of the plastic motor housing.

We tried Sears here in Canada for a replacement part but had no luck.

We're looking for the part on page 33 of the Instruction Manual, Key
#6, part # 63487, Housing, Top (Canada).

If anyone has any ideas on this, much appreciated.

Richard Tomkins


This MIND left BLANK Intentionally!


From ameador@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:16 EST 1997
Article: 183617 of rec.woodworking
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From: ameador@aol.com (AMEADOR)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Books
Date: 12 Feb 1997 04:05:34 GMT
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I am a novice woodworker, and subscribe to the series.  I enjoy many of
the articles and find them to be tuitive.  The video that comes with it is
excellent.
Andy Meador
Chapel Hill, N.C.


From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:17 EST 1997
Article: 183618 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:10:15 GMT
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I use Sencos at work.... Nice Nailers.

At home I have the Porter Cables.  Very happy with them and a great
price... the fit is just as good as the Sencos and better (IMHO than
the Bostich)

Alan

On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 23:20:41 -0500, bearfoot@erols.com wrote:

>I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
>Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive, and I
>question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
>needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco, but
>that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the ones
>for Senco.
> 
>What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??
>
>Paul

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:18 EST 1997
Article: 183619 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shaker Tall Clock Blueprint Help
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:27:29 GMT
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There was an article on building a shaker clock in the last issue of
FWW.   It was a  long case [Grandfather ] clock which in my opinion
was rather ugly.            mjh                                  



From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:19 EST 1997
Article: 183620 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:17:45 GMT
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Mike you might be dealing with solidcore plywood where the veners are
laminated onto solid planks of wood.

Alan

..On 10 Feb 1997 22:54:00 GMT, mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
wrote:

>
>  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
>wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
>premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
>that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
>difference really is?
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com

********************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

********************************************


From mc@shore.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:20 EST 1997
Article: 183621 of rec.woodworking
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From: mc@shore.net (Michael Crestohl)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wanted: 1/2" router....
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:59:43 -0500
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My wife has become interested in woodworking and I want to get her a
router.  Snce I am not sure if she will remain interested in it I do not
want to invest in a new one but am hoping that I might find a used one in
good condition. I'd also like to find a woodworker's vice and other basic
tools.  

Please reply by e-mail.
Cordially,

Michael Crestohl
mc@shore.net


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:20 EST 1997
Article: 183622 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop vac reviews
Date: 12 Feb 1997 04:21:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Yeah,  Igot the sears 6hp. It sucks alright but iis very loud and although
about $100 on sale, a new filter will cost ya $25. Depnds on what you want
to do. For genreal pick-up it works good and can't beat price.


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:21 EST 1997
Article: 183623 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:39:44 GMT
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Tim Taylor wrote:

;I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
;have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood
that
;have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type?
Unfortunately
;my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
;years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
;remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
;tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
;What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   

Check out the can but a few strippers do advertise that they will
remove stains . In any event after stripping and neutralizing clean up
with sand paper and apply oxalic acid this should remove most of the
stain . make sure to read the info on oxalic acid as I do believe it
is mildly poisionous,so you might need to wear gloves and do the
application outdoors . 
Even this will probably not get all of it but short of resurfacing it
wiill get most .                       mjh



From carsod@rpi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:42:22 EST 1997
Article: 183624 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Carson <kitatt@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 03:31:12 -0500
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I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.

In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
locktite yet, but will.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Kit


From amakieje@idirect.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:23 EST 1997
Article: 183625 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: amakieje@idirect.com (Andrew Makiejewski)
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 06:47:36 -0500, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
wrote:

>
>It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
>just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
>was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
>It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
>use whatever the sponser dictates !
>

There have been a couple of times where Norm has use a hand power tool
with the name tape off with masking tape.


From goldnrod@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:24 EST 1997
Article: 183626 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ernest Shipley <goldnrod@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Chair seat marks
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:28:01 -0800
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Trevor Richardson wrote:
> 
> What si the best way to gouge or put in the seat marks for the butt in the
> chair?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  The chair is made out of
> oak.
Trevor, about 6-8 months ago there was an article in Wood magazine about
belt sanders. One of the things shown was using a belt sander with a pad
under the middle of the platen (making it rather oval shaped) and using
it to rough out the seat of a chair. Sorry I can't be more specific
about the details or the issue. Check out Wood's web page & maybe you
can find it. Don't know if you have a belt sander or not.
Ernie


From tclapp@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:25 EST 1997
Article: 183627 of rec.woodworking
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From: "T. W. Clapp" <tclapp@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Variable Speed Routers?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 04:51:21 GMT
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Since this is your first router, I'd suggest you forget about features like
variable speed.  Get a decent router and use for a while on various
projects.  You will soon learn the limitations and the "occasional" need
for slower speed.  For example, I find cherry a fine wood to look at, but a
bitch to work with unless you have VERY sharp bits.  It burns very easily
until you slow down the router.  When that time comes, go buy a $30 router
speed controller (available from MCMS) and attach it to the side of your
table.  works fine.

PS: If I were buying my first router, I'd go with a PC or the little Dewalt
610.  Both around $150.

Jim <jmartin@novagate.com> wrote in article <33009874.39D7@novagate.com>...
> Before I buy my first router I was wondering if anybody could give
> reasons for the variable speed function found on some models.  All I can
> think is that it is to slow the router down to avoid burning some
> materials.  Is this correct?  Are there other reasons?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Jim Martin
> jmartin@novagate.com
> 


From douglas.jones@juno.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:26 EST 1997
Article: 183628 of rec.woodworking
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From: "djones" <douglas.jones@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood workers Paradise FSBO
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 23:53:02 -0500
Organization: ErieNet
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Resort Home For Sale By Owner

This lovely home and property is available in
Erie County.

9 1/2 acres. Pond. Stream. Heated wood working shop.
Carriage House. Garage. Picinic Pavilion. 4 1/2 acres
of rich timber. Total Seclusion. Lovely home fully
remodeled.  Under $200,000.

Please visit and enjoy:   www.erie.net/~djones/home






From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:27 EST 1997
Article: 183629 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 05:16:17 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net> wrote:

;In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
;woodworking projects?  Any limitations?  Courtesy of a storm, I have
an
;oak limb with some 8-10 feet of fairly straight wood averaging about
8" 
;in diameter and I'd prefer not to use it for firewood if it can be
turned
;into useful, small lumber. Thanks in advance.
;Mike

tree limbs vary their annular rings so that they can resist bending
loads due to their own weight .So when a limb is cut sawn and dried it
in all likleyhood  will relieve its internal stresses and curl . The
amountof curl will be dependant on the amount of vertical the branch
was when growing on the tree ,if it was allmost vertical then it can
be treated the same as regular trunk lumber 
Once cut and dried as mentioned the internal stresses should be
relieved ,however every time it is recut /shaped the material will
restabilize .I have found the trick to using this stuff is to cut it
allmost to size and leave it for at least a couple of days to allow
any movement to occur and then cut to required size 
As far as use in the past for ship and house building the idea in
these cases was to have the direction of the applied load follow the
direction of the grain thereby maximizing the strength of the material
and to minimize any cross grain loading .In the UK many of the old
houses ,cottages particularly in coastal areas used old ships timbers
>from  the breakers yards .Some pubs in Kent that i know of in the lower
levels have used keel timbers , the rib mortices are readily visable
as are the ribs themselve in the outer walls .
In short this type of timber is a little more trouble to use ,one
other item ,when selecting any material at the lumber yard allways
check to make sure you are not getting bough material ,if you can see
the annular rings and they are not evenly distributed ,say much
tighter at on side of the board than the other then steer clear .
                            mjh



From hansons@nnet.nb.ca Sat Feb 15 11:42:28 EST 1997
Article: 183630 of rec.woodworking
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From: hansons@nnet.nb.ca (John Hanson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wine racks
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:12:01 GMT
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On Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:47:51 -0800, Shane <lehmann@icenter.net> wrote:

>I'm hoping someone can help me here.  I'm looking for some 
>designs/patterns to wine racks.  Does anyone know of any that can be 
>found on the net.
>	

Also try your local homebrew shops, sometimes they carry some neat
stuff.  I've also found interesting ones in wine books, try the
library or bookstore.

John

>	Any help would be appreciated.
>
>	Shane
>
>-- 
>
>	"Now go away before I taunt you a second time"
>		-french taunter from Monty Python's
>		 Holy Grail

non-spammed replies may be sent to hansons@nbnet.nb.ca

"Atyab at-tihani bi-munasabat hulul shahru Ramadan al-Mubarak. (Arabic) The
most precious congratulations on the occasion of the coming of Ramadan."
Muslim greeting.


From android@ubotit.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:29 EST 1997
Article: 183631 of rec.woodworking
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From: android@ubotit.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: suede-tex/flocking
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 04:47:48 GMT
Organization: CADVision Development Corp.
Lines: 13
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On Fri, 07 Feb 1997 06:27:33 -0500, Henry Douglas
<henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>Does anyone know of any suppliers other than Donjer that sells flocking
>materials or spray on suede-tex? Thank you for your help, lots of news
>and ideas in this group.  Keep up the good work.
>Henry from Kingston

If you are in Kinston Ontario, try Lee Valley Tools in Toronto,
London, Ottawa, Calgary and Vancouver who do a mail order business.

<<No affiliation, just happy to have their store in town.>>



From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:29 EST 1997
Article: 183632 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wanted : Rabit Plane Fence
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 23:09:27 -0600
Organization: (missing)
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Gloria:

Try Patrick Leach or Bob Kaune. The Electronic Neanderthal 

> Gloria Orlandi <Gloria@statue.com> wrote in article
<33012390.19E6@statue.com>...
> I recently picked up a relativitely new Stanley #78 Rabit plane missing
> the fence.  Can anyone tell me how to get one or how to get ahold of
> Stanley on the Web?
> 
> Any info is appreciated.
> 
> 


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:30 EST 1997
Article: 183633 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:59:33 -0800
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> I'm curious how often the non-professionals among you out there are down
> (or out) in your shop:  frequency, and duration at a shot.  My wife
> occasionally rags on me (could be worse), and I'd like to know where I
> stand in the distribution.
snip

Why not try what I do? Tell the wife your going to the nudie bar with
your buddies, and then sneak out to the shop. Of course you have to keep
the hammering to a minimum.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From designs@compusmart.ab.ca Sat Feb 15 11:42:31 EST 1997
Article: 183634 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33015EDE.E3E@compusmart.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:10:38 -0800
From: David Caldwell <designs@compusmart.ab.ca>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.books:2282 rec.woodworking:183634 realtynet.residential:705

Publications for designing, renovating, and contracting a house.
Step-by-step construction guides for people with no previous experience
with construction. Know what the builders know -- and more -- before you
build.
These publications are presently being used by many Educational
Institutions as a supplement to their Architectural, Drafting, and
Carpentry courses
To review the books and their subject matter -- visiy my net-page.
http://www.compusmart.ab.ca/designs/


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:32 EST 1997
Article: 183635 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:12:34 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <33015142.33A8@ix.netcom.com>
References: <32FF2811.91F@veribest.com> <32FF6877.5FA5@nortel.ca> <5dog34$fof@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <jonaw-1102970020580001@208.142.81.26>
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Jonathan Waterbury wrote:
> 
> In article <5dog34$fof@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>,
> fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis) wrote:
> 
> > If you decide to try friction cutting, make sure your saw is clean.
> > Friction cutting is almost like torch cutting in that the high speed
> > blade heats the metal almost to the melting point and then drags it off
> > in a pretty good shower of sparks.  The build up of hot "filings" can
> > easily start a fire.
> 
> I've wondered about this as well: What if one were to put a metal cutting
> blade on a slowed down a Delta 14" bandsaw? How would that work compared
> to a dedicated metal-cutting bandsaw? The friction cutting thing appeals
> to me not in the least.
> 
> --
> Cheers,
> Jonathan

Actually, most folks don't know that Delta builds a metal/wood cutting
bandsaw. I happen to have one. It is basically identical to the 14"
closed base saw, except that the lower wheel is driven via an oil bath
gear box. Even the casting in this area is very similar to the wood
cutting saw. But the wheels and guides appear to be the same on both.
The gear box has a push/pull knob that changes the gearing from direct
drive, for 3000fpm for wood, to gear reduced drive for 400-1000fpm (or
something like that), for metal.

All you need to do is figure out how to get enough reduction with your
pulleys to slow it down below 1000fpm. Then get yourself a metal cutting
blade and your in buisness.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From goldnrod@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:33 EST 1997
Article: 183636 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ernest Shipley <goldnrod@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:57:00 -0800
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3300CF0C.602C@bellsouth.net>
References: <3300D0F2.529@lmco.com>
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Chuck Steger wrote:
> 
> It has been written about many times here in rec.ww but I have yet to
> see a definitive answer on why wrapping grounding wire around (outside
> of) PVC pipe will take static elctricity to ground. After all PVC is
> nonconductive pipe so why would wrapping the wire on the outside of the
> pipe work?
>    Lo and behold, the April 97 issue of "Wood" magazine states this very
> thing as one way of grounding using PVC pipe (the other way has rivets
> going into the pipe wall). However, they did not mention why this will
> work given the nonconductive properties of PVC.
>    Can anyone explain why this will work (I've written "Wood" with the
> same question but have not heard back from them yet)?
> --
> Chuck Steger
> Warrenton, VA
> chuck.steger@lmco.com
Well, lets see if I can take a stab at this. "Almost" anything can get a
static (meaning non-currentflowing) charge on it, whether it conducts
electricity or not. But bringing the item in contact with a good
conductor of electricity (the copper wire) connected to ground and the
"static" charge will bleed off through the wire to ground. Want proof?
Simple. The plastic comb thing--run through your hair and it crackles
and pops as it builds up a charge, right? Wrap a copper wire aound it
and connect it to ground (water fawcett) and no more charge. Clear as
mud, right?
Ernie


From gnwjr@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:34 EST 1997
Article: 183637 of rec.woodworking
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From: gnwjr@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:23:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183637

Well said - well put.

I wonder sometimes if I can build anything I see since I don't have
all those tools, especially the projects Norm builds.

Norm is good - but what about projects for people without corporate
sponsors?

On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:27:04 GMT, Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
wrote:

>Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
>tools as I had.
>
>When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
>tools to build things with.  
>
>Remember the Craftsmanship of Norm Abrams?  Not the Commercialism of
>Norm Abrams....
>
>I know it's partly jelousy.  But man if I bought every gadget Norm has
>I wouldn't be able to afford any lumber..(not to mention "Antique
>Pine").
>
>Common Norm build something the old fashiion way... Make a mortis and
>tennon with a drill and a chisel... like I have to.  If nothing else
>use NEW Pine for something.
>
>I guess I could save up my PBS donation money and buy a "Dedicated
>Mortising Tool"
>but then how could my local station buy your show....
>
>I used to think it was so neat that you used a spindel sander on your
>drill press, Just like me... now the 5 hp super boss is bumped another
>coommonality we used to have.
>
>Okay use your Laser guided miter saw your 30in planer and 60in
>jointer... glue away with your 'Moistier Activated Glue" before you
>cordless biscut it and pnuematicly nail everything together or screw
>it together with a different screw gun for each type of screw... but
>let me ask you two questions.....
>
>Why do you wear a tool belt?  There aren't any tools on it
>
>Do yoy even own a Hammer?  Ya know the real non fiberglass reinforced
>non night vision type hammer.
>
>Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
>Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
>making the tools we HAVE work better for us..... 
>
>Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
>dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
>days....but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....
>
>I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....
>
>Just my thoughts....
>
>Alan
>********************************************
>Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
>  and he doesn't use a blade
>         guard either.
>
>Alan Murphy
>Las Vegas, NV
>
>********************************************

C-130 Trashhauler



From stclair1@flash.Net Sat Feb 15 11:42:35 EST 1997
Article: 183638 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Johnny St. Clair" <stclair1@flash.Net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Important
Date: 12 Feb 1997 05:26:57 GMT
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155
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We are writing you this to inform you of a very important matter 
currently under review by the FCC.  Your local telephone company has
filed a proposal with the FCC to impose per minute charges for your 
internet service. They contend that your usage has or will hinder 
the operation of the telephone network.  

It is our belief that internet usage will diminish if users were required
to pay additional per minute charges.  The FCC has created an email box for
your comments; responses must be received by February 13, 1997.  Send
your comments to isp@fcc.gov and tell them what you think.

Alert everyone in your addressbook, and most importantly the subject
line should have "CC Docket No 96-263". FULL NAME AND ADDRESS SHOULD
ACCOMPANY THE EMAIL otherwise it will be deleted. Again, the email to FCC
is
isp@fcc.gov 

More information can be found at the FCC website:
	http://www.fcc.gov/isp.html

Please forward this email to all your friends on the internet so all our
voices may be heard.

Thanks for your time.

-- 
My Return address is incorrect in order to avoid Junk E-mail


From goldnrod@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:36 EST 1997
Article: 183639 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.jax.bellsouth.net!news.rdu.bellsouth.net!news.bna.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Ernest Shipley <goldnrod@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:08:40 -0800
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3300D1C8.6EB2@bellsouth.net>
References: <01bc1864$5bd1bec0$561193cf@jmv_1.state.co.us>
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To: Jerry and Lisa <jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183639

Jerry and Lisa wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone..   I have a question and I hope that someone can help me out
> here..   I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for my
> kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me to
> a web page or show a picture of a pattern of a kitty condo or scratching
> post..  I want it to be a nice place for my cats, something sturdy, but I
> don't want to spend $200 on something my cats are going to scratch up..
> Please, if anyone can direct me to a good web page with patterns on it, I'd
> love that..
> 
> thank you so much for any help!!
> 
> --
> Lisa
> 
> jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net
Lisa, go to several pet stores and look at some of the ones they have to
give you ideas on the many designs available. Also, my wife gets a
catalog from a company called "Doctors Foster Smith" that has a
multitude of that sort of stuff. Their fone # is 800-826-7206. I'm sure
they would love to send you a catalog. Hope this helps.
Ernie


From gmgwoody@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:36 EST 1997
Article: 183640 of rec.woodworking
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From: gmgwoody@aol.com (Gmgwoody)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glider Chair Plans
Date: 12 Feb 1997 05:53:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Would appreciate help in obtaining plans for a solid wood glider chaire
thanks,

Gmgwoody@aol.com


From goldnrod@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:37 EST 1997
Article: 183641 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.jax.bellsouth.net!news.rdu.bellsouth.net!news.bna.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Ernest Shipley <goldnrod@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:28:13 -0800
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3300D65D.1289@bellsouth.net>
References: <5do8u8$g91@fido.asd.sgi.com> <haubert.110.000FB7AF@mbi.org> <5dquh4$fkn@fido.asd.sgi.com>
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Mike McDonald wrote:
> 
> In article <haubert.110.000FB7AF@mbi.org>,
>         haubert@mbi.org writes:
> > In article <5do8u8$g91@fido.asd.sgi.com> mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) writes:
> >>From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
> >>Subject: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
> >>Date: 10 Feb 1997 22:54:00 GMT
> >
> >
> >>  I've just about finished building by workbench, so I'm now out looking at
> >>wood to build a desk. I've noticed that a couple of the plywoods come in both
> >>premium and carpenter's grade. The carpenter's is about 40% cheaper. Other than
> >>that, I can't tell much difference between the two. Could some tell me what the
> >>difference really is?
> >
> >
> > These sound like made-up grades, but the difference should be obvious.
> > Cabinet grade plywood is usually flatter, has less voids, and is veneered with
...........snip...snip..........
>   mikemac@engr.sgi.com
First of all, I'd suspect part of the difference to be in the thickness
of the outer hardwood veneer. The cheap stuff is probly half the
thickness of the other. The other difference is in the core and it may
have voids in it which will "show through" when you start into the
finishing process. I bought some and had that problem. Tore some apart
to see what was causing the problem and found many spots where there
were 1" wide strips 2' to 3' long with nothing there. With a really thin
veneer, these show through a finish as if some of the stain didn't
"take". Course all of this is just conjecture but I'd sure get some
explanation and do a lot of careful looking. Naturally, the missing
strips in mine didn't show on any of the edges! Hope this helps.
Ernie


From dstone@bullitt.win-uk.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:38 EST 1997
Article: 183642 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!rill.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!bullitt!dstone
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <1166@bullitt.win-uk.net>
Reply-To: dstone@bullitt.win-uk.net (David Stone)
From: dstone@bullitt.win-uk.net (David Stone)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 22:24:31 GMT
Subject: Info wood Burl
Lines: 11
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183642

Hi All,

I have just joined the group and was wondering how one finds out
where to source Burl, preferable English Elm. Can anyone offer any
advice or perhaps put me in contact with someone who could, as I
have contacted my local timber yard and they just stare me with a
blank expression.

Thanks very much.

Dave 



From bcs@teleport.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:39 EST 1997
Article: 183643 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Donn Busby" <bcs@teleport.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood Edging on Countertop
Date: 12 Feb 1997 07:04:11 GMT
Organization: Bridge City Systems
Lines: 28
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David, what I have done in the past that has eliminated any problem with
the junction of formica and edging is to glue the edging on first yellow
glue, sand it flush with the surface, then apply the formica.  At that
point you can route a profile into the edge, I usually just route a
chamfer.  The main downside to this technique is that the core of the
formica is visible, which you may or may not find objectionable.  This
black stripe can be avoided by using solid color formica, which is more
expensive.

David Roseman <droseman@erols.com> wrote in article
<32ff4882.322708@news.erols.com>...
> On 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT, Scott N Rothermel <waltrip@ptdprolog.net>
> wrote:
> 
> >
> >  Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging

> >is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I

> >would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
> >oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
> >putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
> >edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity
changes? 
> > Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
> >countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.
> 



From aandrlee@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:40 EST 1997
Article: 183644 of rec.woodworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com (AandRLEE)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accessories for Bosch 1613evs??????
Date: 12 Feb 1997 07:15:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183644

A 1995 Bosch catalog of mine lists S-B Power Tool Company, 4300 West
Peterson Avenue, Chicago, IL, 60646-5999. You might try calling to ask the
name of your local distributor or perhaps order direct from them. Good
Luck!


From aht@mail.bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:42:41 EST 1997
Article: 183645 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:47:13 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
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>Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net> wrote:
>
>In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
>woodworking projects?  Any limitations?  Courtesy of a storm, I have an
>oak limb with some 8-10 feet of fairly straight wood averaging about 8" 
>in diameter and I'd prefer not to use it for firewood if it can be turned
>into useful, small lumber. Thanks in advance.
>Mike

Mike,

Sure, I had a load of firewood delivered one time ( after I got too
lazy to do it myself ) with a lot of beautiful chunks of walnut in
it....don't ask I don't know why. Every time I took a armload into the
house I picked out pieces I just couldn't burn. I ended up with a nice
little pile in my two-car woodshop. I just let them sit there for a
few weeks. After I couldn't stand it any more I cut them on the band
saw, the table saw, and jointer until I had some perfect blocks of
free walnut.  The first project was a bunch of those wooden hinges I
mentioned in an earlier post. Worth all the trouble. That was a long
time ago.  Since then I'm always finding a use for the free pieces.
There's something rewarding about taking it from the raw form and
turning it into something useful.


Al



From luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca Sat Feb 15 11:42:42 EST 1997
Article: 183646 of rec.woodworking
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From: luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca (Luigi Zanasi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:42:37 GMT
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r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager) wrote:

>In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>, Abacab 
>says...
>

>> About the (metric) system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre of water
>> weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar comparisons
>> for lengths.
Like what?
>> I hope that makes sense to some, and I'm sure it will break open a huge
>> argument with others.  I'm lucky enough to be at the age where I bounce
>> back and forth between the two.  I favor metric for determining the
>> weather, etc, and standard for woodworking and the gas usage of my car.
So do I, and I suspect most Canadians too. The Celsius degrees and SI
klicks are fun to mystify Yankee tourists with. But I can't figure out
litres/100 km or is it km/100 litres. The propaganda has been saying
for 20 years or so "less is more" or is it "more is less", or
something like that. I also liked the fact that our cars got better
gas mileage than the Yanks 'cause our gallon was bigger.

I use inches and all that because that's what I learned. Easier to
visualize for me. I also learned to do fractional arithmetic in
elementary school, so it holds no mystery. But Canadian kids don't
learn how to do fractions anymore.
>> 
>> Take Care all,
>> Dan Hamill
>> Atlantic Canada

>I agree with Dan (a Canadian) about the metric system.
>Oz (that's Australia, not Austria) went metric in 1966 and it's the 
>*best* thing we ever did.  Some advantages :
>1.	Taking 10ml of medicine suddenly made sense
>2.	Woodworking dimensions and calculations are simple ... 24 1/8" - 3 
>3/4" = ??? ... no thanks!
>3.	Simple calcs = less chance of error = a happier woodworker
On the other hand, easy calculations might make you complacent and
lead to more mistakes. You know you're going to triple check 24 1/8" -
3 3/4".
>4.	It annoys the heck out of you Yankees who are about the only 
>people left in the world who use imperial measurement.
>4.	um,
>5.	um, um,
>6.	I guess that's all.
7. Much easier to go from volume measures in cubic linear measures to
liquid measures in volume, and from volume to weight for liquids. 1000
cubic mm = one litre = 1 kg of water. 1 ml = 1 cm cubed = 1 gram of
water. But the old imperial gallon weighed 10 pounds.
>Some disadvantages :
>1.	We have to travel further to get from town A to town B. What used 
>to be 50 miles is now 80 kilometres ;-)
This is actually an advantage. I get to brag I drove 584 km return to
Dawson City on a weekend, rather than a measly 365 miles.
>2.	Can't think of any others.
3.	At 60 miles per hour, you're going one mile a minute, so
easier to figure out how long it will take to get where you're going.
On the other hand, if it's a long drive, it helps pass the time to do
the math in your head to convert km's to time it will take to get
there.
4.	A 2X4 is now 38 by 89 mm. (Try remembering that, I had to look
it up.) It gets worse when you're in bigger dimension lumber. Try
reading a joist span table without a calculator. A 2X10 is 38 by 235,
and No.2 SPF can span 4.26 metres.
5.	Things don't sound as cold as they used to and we in the Yukon
can't brag as much about our wonderful weather. 40 below zero is the
same temperature in Celsius and Fahrenheit. 60 below F is now only 51
below C.
6.	If you use 400 mm rather than 16" centres on your studs or
joists, plywood or drywall, still sold in 4' X 8' sheets, won't fit.

>
>The funny thing about our metrication 30 yrs ago is that, while there are 
>people still alive who grew up with the imperial system, both systems of 
>measurement are, generally, acceptable.  I go down to the local timber 
>supplier to get some wood and ask for 3 metres of 2" by 1" ... and they 
>understand!  When I get it home and start a project, there are *only* 
>metric rules and micrometers to be found.  I wouldn't work in the 
>imperial system ever again.
We still call 2X4's 2X4's at the lumber yard. Nobody calls them 38 by
89's. My father, a cabinet maker, had no problem adapting to imperial
measurements when he came to Canada from Italy in the '50's. It
shouldn't be a problem the other way either. Might in fact be easier.
All I need to do is to learn to be able to visualize 1mm rather than
1/16".

>Reading plans and interpreting dimensions from the Yankee mags means that 
>a calculator to convert imperial to metric is never more than a foot ... 
>er ... I mean ... 304.8 millimetres away. 

>Mike Hide (a yankee) wrote :
>"I cant imagine why you Austrians adopted a french measurement system 
>..."
>
>"Austria"??  "Austria?"??   That's a very long way from where I live ... 
>you yanks sure lead a sheltered life ... the world was once thought to be 
>square and once you got to the edge of it you would fall off.  My 
>suspicions that you guys are taught to believe that the edge of the world 
>now coincides with the edge of the 48 contiguous states has been 
>confirmed.
>:-) ;-) :-)
Even the Alaskans would agree with that. :-)

Luigi
In the Great White (and First Nation) North.


From gege@series2000.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:43 EST 1997
Article: 183647 of rec.woodworking
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From: "George Geddes" <gege@series2000.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Bench top Jointer
Date: 12 Feb 1997 08:01:08 GMT
Organization: Crafted Wood by George
Lines: 13
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I have gone through 2 other bench top joiners before the Delta and It does
everything the big ones do except handle heavy stock. You will need to
clamp it to your bench for the larger pieces. The only real draw back is
the same for all small joiner tables, long work pieces (4 ft+) are a
problem. The variable speed motor has handled oak and maple with no problem
and unless you have very unusual temperature changes in your shop, the
aluminum table will give you no trouble.  Keep the blades sharp - George

Ron Newton <rnewton@cmpu.net> wrote in article <32FFF399.6572@cmpu.net>...
> Has anyone had experience using the Delta 6" benchtop jointer? Any
other....
> Snip.
 


From dicko@wormhole.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:44 EST 1997
Article: 183648 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dick Merryman <dicko@wormhole.com>
Subject: Re: Grizzley Imports Website URL?
In-Reply-To: <5d51h1$61n@sf18.dseg.ti.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183648

Try http://www.grizzlyimports.com/

>  From: Undetermined origin c/o LISTSERV administrator
<owner-LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>, on 2/3/97 3:50 PM:
>  Does anyone know if Grizzley has a websit and the URL?
>
>  Brian
>
>  a0842283@lesol1.dseg.ti.com
>
>
>


From daniel.wolf@wolft.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:45 EST 1997
Article: 183649 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dan Wolf" <daniel.wolf@wolft.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:13:40 GMT
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I just bought a Contractors saw based on the positive info in the group.
After assembly I noticed the blade doesn't retract all the way down.
About 1/16" still extends above the table.  What's the problem?
Shouldn't the blade drop all of the way down and into the table.

Thanks,

Dan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:46 EST 1997
Article: 183650 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Bench Plans
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 01:17:15 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 13
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RMAN4443 wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks.I'm looking for plans for a router table or bench,something heavy
> duty.Anyone know where to look,or have plans they could send?
> 
>                                                                     TIA
>                                                                Rick

The first issue of Shop Notes, Vol 1 No 1 had a very good router table,
top, base, and fence. Good issue and it is still available at my lumber
store.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:47 EST 1997
Article: 183651 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 01:45:09 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <33019125.536F@california.com>
References: <5dd2da$sf2$1@news.eecs.umich.edu> <01bc14b0.e3a25ec0$ca9e09ce@horizons> <5dnvg6$11e@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> <32FFF06C.22D0@sadust.hill.com> <5dqrp8$eoa@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> <33011B5D.5DA8@sadust.hill.com>
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Termite wrote:
> 
> Ron,
> Thanks for the information. I spoke with DeWalt this AM about these two
> items (fence and height adj.) for the 621.
> The guy told me that maybe in April they would ship!  I'm still trying
> to decide if I want to wait that long - and still don't know how the
> height adj. will work even then.
> The guy told me that the way it'll work is that you plunge all the way
> down and then lock the router down, place it in the table and then adj.
> the height.
> HEY MAN - what's he been smoking??? Wonder who got the good stuff. Even
> I know that once the router is locked (in any position) the adj. knob
> can have no effect on the position of the motor. IF it does we're gonna
> be in trouble.
> Anyway, after I splained it 2 m, he said to me. It will work just like
> the 625, they have sold thousands of them and everyone loves them and
> they work great in tables.
> 
> I know nothing of the 625 other than what I've seen posted in the NG.
> Anyone using this in a router table?
> Does it in fact have a separate knob for adjusting the height when it's
> in the table, as opposed to the fine adj. knob for setting the depth of
> plunge?
> 

I have the ELU equivalent of the 625 router. I mount it in a table on a
3/8 inch polycarbonate base. It is a quite good router, my only
complaint being the router should bottom a bit more, as the 3/8 inch
plate reduces this. The problem occurs when using the 1/4 inch collet,
many 1/4 inch bits have short shafts. Most of the larger plunge routers
seem to have this problem as I saw in a parellel thread.

I bought a long fine adjust knob and find it helps under the table, that
slipnut is hard to grab sometimes. The first, cheap knob I bought wasn't
very good, but the more expensive one from DeWalt turned more freely and
is the better knob.

The only thing I can think of that he was talking about is the fine
adjustment scale it has, in addition to the regular adjustment knob.
It's a good scale with a caliper fine adjustment. But you still adjust
the height with the knob. The scale provides a stop to calibrate
against. And to get it out of the way, you move it into the full up
position.



> The guy told me to take the 621 and put it in the table and try it
> (????) and that I would then see how it worked. He said that when the
> height adj. knob becomes available that it will attach directly onto the
> existing knob on the router and that the only thing it does is make it
> easier for you to reach the adjuster.

Yes, this is true. The knob I have is about ten inches long and extends
over the head of the router. Much easier to use in the table. I could
probably remove the springs or replace them with softer springs in the
table, but havn't done this.

All-in-all, a good router. Good hand router also, but 3 HP is a big
router. I would have preferred a 2 HP version, but that was discontinued
a while ago when I bought the Elu.


Stan


> 
> HELP !!!


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:48 EST 1997
Article: 183652 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:17:43 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <330198C7.2D04@california.com>
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bearfoot@erols.com wrote:
> 
> Claude Livernoche wrote:
> >
> > I want to get a planer and i am considering the 12 1/2" Craftsman. I
> > would appreciate your comments.
> > Also, any comments about Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer (3 blades)?
> > --
> >
> > cliver@quebectel.com
> 
> I've had my Craftsman jointer for years and love it!!  Now, I don't do
> anything fancy with it, and I'm not a cabinet maker or any of the like,
> just a home handyman.  But it does the job for me.
> 
> Paul

Well, I've got one of these, paid under $180 for it, too. And I'm very
happy with it. I put a lot of wood throught it, too.

It was in the returns plie at Sears. They wanted $250 for it after a
week or two. I offered 180, after the 10% discount-night, the guy talked
to the manager and said ok if I bought the service agreement also. So I
sprang for it and got an additional employee (my ex's) discount. 

On the way home, I dropped it off at the sears service center. After two
weeks, they still hadn't finished with it. Seems it was returned for
'frequent popping circuit breaker' because the motor was bad. So they
replaced the motor ($250 if I had to pay for it) after changing the
circuit breaker. They put in and set new blades also.

It's a quite good planer since everything's working right. Reasonable
powered and smooth cut. But if I were going to pay full price, I would
probably have gotten the Delta, although I hear there are problems with
that one. Anyway, I couldn't beat the price and the perormance is
certainly more than adequate, so I'm a happy camper with my $180 planer.
:)

Stan


From davecl@SUPERIOR.NET Sat Feb 15 11:42:49 EST 1997
Article: 183653 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Lindsley <davecl@SUPERIOR.NET>
Subject: Dado Blade for Bench Top Table Saw
Lines: 17
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183653

I purchased a Bench Top Table Saw (Direct Drive) with a relativly short
arbor.

I tried a Delta 8" Wobble Dado but the arbor was too short.....

Has anyone else had this problem and do you know how to get around it or
where to
purchase a dado blade that will fit??

Thanks

--------------------------------------------------------
Feb 12, 97 12:00:03 AM
Dave Lindsley
http://www.superior.net/~davecl.html
davecl@superior.net
--------------------------------------------------------
The road to sucess is always under construction


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:51 EST 1997
Article: 183654 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:23:42 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 40
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Tim Hoyman wrote:
> 
> In article <797d285947@millard.demon.co.uk>, Jeff Gorman
> >
> > I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
> > take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
> > and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
> > reply.
> >
> > Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> > by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
> >
> > Jeff
> > --
> > Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
> > jeff@millard.demon.co.uk
> 
> I agree with Jeff on this one, if the person just wants the replies
> emailed because they do not want (lazy?) to come back to rec.ww and check
> for replies.  If it is info that is really not for a large chunk of the
> group, as in,how do you tighten the collet on a PC 609?  Then, the replies
> really should be emailed.  This is something that applies to newcomers and
> vets - we should save as much bandwidth as possible.
> 
> My personal peeve is when people throw up a question and ask others to
> take time to give them advice and they do not even have the simple
> consideration to put their real name or even initials at the bottom of the
> post.
> 
> Tim

There may be good reason for this. Many ISP's only get some of the
articles in a newsgroup, and others only keep them for a few days,
rather than a week or two. I don't exactly know why, but I have two
ISP's, one for my email and ATT (the one I use except for email). The
first never has as many articles in newsgroups as ATT and coesn't keep
them but a few days. So it's quite possible for someone to miss a post
to their question even if they do dilligence.

Stan


From johns@awod.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:52 EST 1997
Article: 183655 of rec.woodworking
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From: johns@awod.com (johns)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: looking for "ellis clamps"
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:21:22 GMT
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From: johns@awod.com (johns)
Newsgroups: alt.building.construction
Subject: looking for "ellis clamps"?
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

i have used a "clamp" system for jacking porch posts before which was 
called (by one person anyway) an "ellis clamp" system. it worked by simply
laying two 4x4's side by side with two "clamps" which held them together 
and which would allow one 4x4 to move upward but not slip back down. the 
upward push was delivered through a lever which clamped onto the lower 4x4
and pushed up on the bottom of the upper 4x4. 
it is a great system and allowed the use and reuse of random length 4x4's
as well as providing controlled lift. i'm wondering if any one out there 
has ever seen such a system and could tell me where to find one.
thanks for any help,
johns


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:53 EST 1997
Article: 183656 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:34:39 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <33019CBF.32C0@california.com>
References: <9702050717.AA16999@rsmail.novitech.sk> <32fe12ce.89890192@news.compumedia.com> <5doq65$66p@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
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Edward O'Grady wrote:
> Big Problem Guys,
>     How can I fill a small seam or hole on a wooden box using sawdust?
> Do I use Polyurethane and then sand it?  I'm having a bad time with one
> customer who is patiently waiting for a box.  Can anybody post an idea
> or E-mail me.  Thanks very much.
>                         Ed/WallyO

The best way to use sawdust to fill a gap is to mix it with the intended
finish, shellac, tung oil, lacquer, stain-varnish, whatever. "Dusting"
exposed glue doesn't do it.

Still, it's a less-than-perfect match, but generally better than what
you can get in a can.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:54 EST 1997
Article: 183657 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plastic to wood
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:41:06 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Message-ID: <33019E42.2812@california.com>
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CMETRUCK wrote:
> 
> question;
>                what is the best way to adhere plastic to wood, need help
> 
>                                           thanx

A vague question. If you mean sheets of plastic to wood bases, like
plywood, then use contact cement on both pieces. If you mean small parts
to each other, then use two-part epoxy.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:55 EST 1997
Article: 183658 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:45:35 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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damian drewek wrote:
> 
> Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
> oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
> Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?
> 
> Thnx
> Damian

Stay away from AMT. My experience with their stuff has been very bad.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:56 EST 1997
Article: 183659 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander????
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:50:10 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 22
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Explodey2 wrote:
> 
> Well it certainly depends on what you want to do. The $99 sounds like a
> good deal , but only if the machine does what you want it to do.  I saw
> this sander demoed and you could just about stall it with moderately
> sanding. If you are doing only light craft work it might work OK. Anything
> heavier and you'll wish you had more power and greater sanding area. The
> delta floor model (small one) is more of a substantial machine and I've
> seen for around $350. Jet just introduced a siimilar one and if averages
> hold will sell for less than Delta (maybe $300). If budget is a major
> concern, you could go with a cheaper machine like woodtek, grizzly,
> reliant etc in the area of  $250. I wouldn't go with less than 3/4 true hp
> rating. Hope this helps.


As explodey2 says, it's a good sander for the dollar. But I believe a
six-inch disk is going to be too small for almost anything except small
parts. Eight is probably minimum for a useful disk sander. Remember,
only a portion of a quarter of the disk is actually useful most of the
time.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:57 EST 1997
Article: 183660 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 02:53:58 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3301A146.1DE2@california.com>
References: <5di233$m5j@thrush.sover.net> <32F6A28C.4511@mis.net> <32F6F42C.5F42@california.com> <44de995747@millard.demon.co.uk> <5dndnj$3n7@netnews.upenn.edu>
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Dave Peritt wrote:
> 
> In article <32F6F42C.5F42@california.com> StanR, stanr@california.com
> writes:
> >3. When you do remove the guard, retain the kerf splitter. It keeps the
> >kerf from closing in on the blade and kicking back. Never apply side
> >pressure behind the front edge of the blade.
> 
> I have the Delta CS.  The removal of the stock guard is difficult.  For
> adjusting etc... you should be able to wing nut off the guard easily.  In
> addition, removal of the guard is impossible from the splitter and
> anti-kick back device.  This means your suggestion is useless on these
> saws.....


Oh, sorry I didn't solve all the world's problems. Then make a kerf
splitter. Put it into the shop-made insert. For anti kickback, the board
wheels are much better safety device anyway. Mount them on your fence.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:58 EST 1997
Article: 183661 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 03:07:26 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3301A46E.2DE@california.com>
References: <01bc1331.97076220$c89e09ce@horizons> <19970211150700.KAA27270@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Elwood140 wrote:
> 
> I must add that my own experience with CMT in Florida has been nothing but
> positive.  The products I have received from them and the customer service
> they provided have both been exemplary.  I cannot detect any quality
> differences between the products made in Italy and the USA-produced ones.
> Elwood

I would have said that too until this last order. I'm waiting two weeks
now for it, as of today. The customer service people have been nice and
all, and I really like their bits, but this time the delay is
overwelming. 

I've ordered from them at least six-eight times previously, and used to
get my bits in a day or two. Maybe sucess has spoiled a good thing, or
perhaps this is a fluke. But it's a two week fluke. So far.

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:42:59 EST 1997
Article: 183662 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 03:15:56 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3301A66C.59AE@california.com>
References: <5dabn7$r8f@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
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whylandj@kodak.com wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw.  I have
> no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one to buy.
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff Whyland

I use the Craftsman Excaliber V-adjustable. The cut is slightly jagged
at the bottom, but otherwise good. 
I've also stacked several sawblades on the shaft with washers between
them. That also maks a good cut, not as variable, but doesn't have the
side groves that a chipper stack makes.

Stan


From chipcorp@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:00 EST 1997
Article: 183663 of rec.woodworking
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From: chipcorp@aol.com (CHIPCorp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Threaded Inserts (2-56)
Date: 12 Feb 1997 11:18:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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While looking for stainless steel cross dowels, I came across 2-56
threaded inserts that some one else had been looking for, @:
http://microfasteners.com/nuts7.htm

Hope whoever was looking for these has found them already, or sees this
message. I'm still looking for SS cross dowels/dowel nuts.


From ddurbin@fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us Sat Feb 15 11:43:01 EST 1997
Article: 183664 of rec.woodworking
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From: ddurbin@fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us (Dick Durbin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: 7 Feb 1997 08:04:08 -0500
Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net
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Dave (davem@cftnet.com) wrote:
: Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to 
: HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran 
: over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
That's Norm's old shop.  The table saw , if memory serves me, was
Russell Morash's.  These are old shows. 
-- 
Dick Durbin       * "Who is out there to inspire us with a
Tallahassee, FL   * personal example of virtue and self 
                  * sacrifice in the name of a higher good?"
                                             - CALVIN


                   


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:01 EST 1997
Article: 183665 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Avoiding kickback on TS.
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 03:27:35 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3301A927.ADF@california.com>
References: <3300A625.7D55@hsd.utc.com> <3300B572.6C5C@research.moore.com> <3300E000.6A9@sadust.hill.com>
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Termite wrote:
> 
> I've never equated kickback with the type of cutting you're talking
> about. I have however seen the little parts go flying, or explode as
> they get traped in the throat plate.
> To help this I installed a zero clearence throat plate. If you have a
> dust collection system (here come the flames) this will reduce the
> effectiveness of it as it's harder for all of the dust to get down into
> the saw. This is more prevalient (sic) when ripping or cros cutting near
> the edge/end of the wood. It which time most of the sawdust makes it way
> off to the side instead of down into the throat plate.

You're not using the fence with the mitre, are you? That's a very
dangerous pratice that could cause this. If you're using the fence for
sizing, then use a stop block that leaves clearence between the waste
and the fence.

Stan


From kenst@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:03 EST 1997
Article: 183666 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Stovesand <kenst@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 06:45:20 -0500
Organization: Accent Frames & Molding
Lines: 6
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Colin Montoya-Lewis wrote:
> Ok, I gotta ask:  What's a "hopper" joint?
> -Colin

Compound Miter



From rsansom@mail.arc.nasa.gov Sat Feb 15 11:43:03 EST 1997
Article: 183667 of rec.woodworking
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From: rsansom@mail.arc.nasa.gov (russ sansom)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesemeyer Fence?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:28:22 GMT
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Well.  I bought a new Powermatic 60 cabinet saw with the B fence, and I
was rather shocked to find that I had to spend a couple days drilling
holes.  Even worse, there was already a tantalizing set of holes in the
saw's perimeter.  The instructions ( a xeroxed sheet ) said in bold
type not to use the existing holes.
    Upon reflection, this is perhaps the best way to insure good
alignment.  It was, however a lot of hard work.


From jschlee@tir.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:04 EST 1997
Article: 183668 of rec.woodworking
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From: "jschlee@tir.com" <jschlee@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:09:25 -0500
Organization: The Internet Ramp
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I have the Freud 6" Super Dado for my Delta CS - as good as they come,
with crisp, clean walls & FLAT bottoms. The included shim set is very
handy when cutting dados for all the odd-ball size plywood. I've found
the 6" will handle just about anything I've wanted to do without taxing
the arbor & motor on my CS...

Jim


From GVANMAN@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:05 EST 1997
Article: 183669 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Harris" <GVANMAN@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: 12 Feb 1997 12:34:47 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 27
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kevin holohan <kevin_holohan@3mail.3com.com> wrote in article
<33006B69.4324@3mail.3com.com>...
> Andrew Tune wrote:
> > 
> > Hi!
> > 
> > I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
> > the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.
> > 
> > Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
> > intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be
> > cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
> > compare.
> > 
Good luck on the prices ! 
I'm a Brit living in the US and have found a good range of British tools
available over here (Woodcraft, Garrett-Wade, etc.). When I visited the
motherland, I thought that I would pick up some tools and save myself a bob
or two. To my dismay, the tools were priced above what I could get them for
here in the US ! If you are going to buy them by mail order, then you have
also got to add the shipping charges. My advice is to source the tools here
in the US unless you are looking for something very specific that is not
available here.
Cheers,
          Dave Harris


From ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:06 EST 1997
Article: 183670 of rec.woodworking
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From: ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com (Carl Muhlhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Favorite (Best) Woodworking Books?
Date: 7 Feb 1997 16:52:58 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <5dfmla$c8f@newsb.netnews.att.com>
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In article <jjoslin-ya02408000R0602971721030001@carnews0.bnr.ca>,
Jeff Joslin <jjoslin@nortel.ca> wrote:
>In article <855230993.29048@dejanews.com>, likesj@heidelberg-emh2.army.mil
>wrote:
>
>>I would like to begin compiling a small (10 - 15) library of woodworking
>>books.  I would appreciate any suggestions from the group.  TIA
>

Good list snipped:

I'd add

"Tuning Restoring and Using Classic Woodworking Tools" by Mike DUnbar
(I may not have the title right, but this is a great book that will
make you itch to explore the enlightened path of handtools.)

Tage Frid's Woodworking Series Vol 1 and II. (havent't read the
others)

Bob Moran's "Woodworking the Right Technique" has multiple
techniques for the majority of woodworking tasks.

Carl


-- 
Carl W. Muhlhausen			ledzep@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L				(908)-576-3052
AT&T Business Communications Services
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738


From sheltons@tlc-bbs.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:07 EST 1997
Article: 183671 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jim Shelton" <sheltons@tlc-bbs.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WTB: American Woodworker and Woodworker's Journal Magazines
Date: 12 Feb 1997 12:46:52 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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Looking for some issues of these two magazines, if you have them for sales 
email me.



From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:08 EST 1997
Article: 183672 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Construction of Solid Core door?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 12:50:20 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 37
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In article <3300D068.6539@hp.com>, doug_hood@hp.com says...
>
>What is at the center of a solid core door? Someone mentioned using one
>for a workbench top... and it seems like a good idea.  I've also
>considered 
>using one to construct an outfeed table or even a router table.  
>
>They are flat, heavy, and could be finished and made smooth as glass. 
>
>I don't want to cut into one, though, without having a good idea of what
>is in there....

I have a bench made out of a solid core door. I assumed it was lumber
core, and it wasnt. The way I found that out was by watching in dismay
as the bit I was using to drill mounting holes for a vice just started
walking all over. Anyways, it was only $20. Look for a lumber core door,
and I dont know how you can tell before hand. I am happy with my bench,
but where you will run into problems are with dog holes. The particle
board wont hold up under pressure, it will crumble and compress. I put
aluminum bushings in mine for the wooden dogs I use. 
On my door, the solid wood ran 'cross grain' along top and bottom.Im 
assuming a lumbercore door wouldnt be built like that, so maybe you can 
tell that way.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From mrowan@monmouth.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:09 EST 1997
Article: 183673 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Rowan <mrowan@monmouth.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: AIRY Finish Nailers
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:05:56 -0400
Organization: J. M. Rowan Construction
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3301B224.753@monmouth.com>
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I have the 15 ga angle finish nailer 0565 ? & 2 brad nailers 0241.  I
love them.  Reasonable prices. Mine are 3years old or more new models
are slightly different.  Sorry about your loss.  I've been ripped of
before - it sucks - good luck replacing your stuff.

Mike


Micheal L. wrote:
> 
> Does any one have any experience good or bad for the AIRY brand line of
> nailers and staplers.  Since my SFN-1 was recently stolen along with
> $3000.00 of others tools I am in the market for another nail gun but
> cannot afford to pay for a Senco as I am trying to replace my other
> tools as well.
> 
> Thank you
> Michael
> --
> _________________________________
> Ignorance is for some
> a circumstance,
> for some a choice,
> yet some lacking any other talent,
> Have raised it to an art-form!!


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:10 EST 1997
Article: 183674 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: 12 Feb 1997 12:55:53 GMT
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In article <33002E48.1389@worldnet.att.net>, kitatt@worldnet.att.net says...
>
>I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
>mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
>Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
>screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
>tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.
>
>In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
>locktite yet, but will.
>
>Any other suggestions?
>

Run a helicoil in it and go up a size. Get a new screw, it may be rounded,
maybe your wrench is rounded too. And do use blue locktite. If theres
only 1 screw, drill and tap another one 90 degrees away.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From dunnc@[no_spam]edsug.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:11 EST 1997
Article: 183675 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Needed - Stanley Plane Parts
Message-ID: <1997Feb11.114832.26@bbs.ug.eds.com>
From: Chris Dunn <"dunnc"@[no_spam]edsug.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 11:52:59 -0800
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Gloria Orlandi wrote:
> 
> I just recently picked up a relativitely new Stanley #78 Rabit Plane
> that was made in England.  I am missing the fence and would like to
> replace it.  Does anyone out there willing to part with a spare part,
> know where I can find a parts dealer, or know how to get in touch with
> Stanley via the Web?
> 
> Appreciate any info.  Thanks

Gloria,

You can order a #78 fence directly from Stanley at (800)262-2161. Ask
for Laurie and tell her I sent you!
-- 
Chris Dunn
dunnc@edsug.com


From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sat Feb 15 11:43:11 EST 1997
Article: 183676 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 12 Feb 1997 08:24:44 -0500
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
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In article <5dr202$a1o@news.alaska.edu>,
Kevin Miller <Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us> wrote:
>Someone suggested several splits, one of which was 
>"rec.woodworking.d".  I've seen several ".d" groups but don't know
>what that represents.  Anybody wanna explain it?

"rec.woodworking.discussion" == "rec.woodworking.d"            
 
A "discussion" add-on group is a place to hold natterings on topics
such as splitting the group. In the case of "rec.woodworking.discussion", 
it would be a place to hold discussions about the group "rec.woodworking" 
itself, rather than actual woodworking related issues (actual topical
woodworking discussions would still take place in "rec.woodworking").

-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:12 EST 1997
Article: 183677 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:27:59 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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Ernest Shipley wrote:

> >
> > jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net
> Lisa, go to several pet stores and look at some of the ones they have to
> give you ideas on the many designs available. Also, my wife gets a
> catalog from a company called "Doctors Foster Smith" that has a
> multitude of that sort of stuff. Their fone # is 800-826-7206. I'm sure
> they would love to send you a catalog. Hope this helps.
> Ernie

Many times I've seen items in the store that I thought would make a
great project. I often either have a tape with me, or next time I go I
take it with me. I'll sit there and take measurements and make my rough
draft of plans - then later make the finial drawings and make the item.
At first, and still at times, this seems a little wierd and some of the
sales people don't really like it - but what the hey, we all have to
have some fun in life.


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:13 EST 1997
Article: 183678 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Workbench top within .001"????
Date: 12 Feb 1997 13:37:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In the latest AMERICAN WOODWORKER (April 97), Ian J. Kirby describes his
Better Workbench and states that a good bench "has to be flat to within
.0.01 inch--and .0.001 is not impossible for a sharp jointer plane".

Sheesh. I can't even buy a good machinist's square that has that degree of
precision across it's entire length and he can build a 55"x25" hardwood
benchtop that is that precise?  I'm feeling terribly inadequate. I guess I
have benchtop envy, or I'm just simply benchtop challenged. I'd be
delighted if my 8'x3' maple workbench top is .1" flat.  How did he
possibly measure it?

He stated that you should never have a shop belt sand the top. On this
point, I'm going to ignore that advice. He states that it leaves grit
behind but on the other hand, I don't forsee myself having to resurface
the top every year. I'm making a butcher block top and I don't anticipate
much movement (am I naive?)

Please, if you know the secrets of the universe, could you please reveal
them to me? 

Weasel (tm)

p.s. The following has nothing to do with woodworking, but I thought it
was hilarious and pass it on:
--------------------------------------------------------

Once upon a time there lived a man who had a maddening passion for beans.
He loved them, but they always had a very embarassing and somewhat lively
reaction on him. Then one day he met a girl & fell in love. When it was
apparent that they would marry, he thought to himself, "she is such a
sweet & gentle girl, she will never go for this kind of carrying on." So
he made the supreme sacrifice...and gave up beans. They were married
shortly thereafter.

Some months later his car broke down on the way home from work and,since
they lived in the country, he called his wife & told her that he would be
late as he had to walk home. On his way he passed a small cafe and the
odor of freshly baked beans was overwhelming. Since he still had several
miles to walk he figured that he would work off any ill effects before he
got home so he stopped at the cafe.

Before leaving he had eaten three large orders of baked beans. All the way
home he "putt-putted" and, after arriving, felt reasonably safe that he
had "putt-putted" his last. He noted his wife seemed  somewhat agitated
and excited to see him and exclaimed delightedly, "Darling, I have the
most wonderful suprise for dinner tonight." Then she blindfolded him and
led him to his chair at the head of the dining table. He seated himself
and, just as she was ready to remove the blindfold, the telephone rang.
She made him vow not to touch the blindfold until she returned, then she
went to answer the phone. Seizing the opportunity, he shifted his weight
to one leg and let go! It was not only loud, but as ripe as rotten eggs.
He took the napkin from his lap & vigorously fanned the air about him.
Things had just returned to normal when he felt another urge coming on
him, so he shifted his weight to the other leg and let go again. This was
a true prize-winner. While keeping his ear on the conversation in the
hall, he went on like this for ten minutes until he knew the phone
farewell  indicated the end of his freedom.

He placed his napkin on his lap and folded his hands on top of it and,
smiling contentedly to himself, he was the very picture of innocence when
his wife returned, apologizing for taking so long. She asked if he had
peeked and he, of course, assured her he had not. At this point she
removed his blindfold andthere was his surprise . . .

Twelve dinner guests seated around the table for a "Happy Birthday Party"
for him.


From doug_hood@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:14 EST 1997
Article: 183679 of rec.woodworking
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From: Doug Hood <doug_hood@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman router replacement
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:36:13 -0500
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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I wrote:

> Count me among the few (many?) to get the "EZ Lock mechanism" router
> replaced with the newer redesigned Craftsman routers. I took mine back
:
:
:
> The new mechanism appears much more solid. Thanks to all who took the
> time


  mikemac@engr.sgi.com wrote:

>  What is the new mechanism?

Old:
 A split plastic sleeve was used to raise and lower the motor/collet
housing in an aluminum base. They used a plastic cam to squeeze the
split plastic sleeve together and "lock" the motor housing to the
aluminum base. This did not work well.

New:
They still use the plastic sleeve (not split) twisting action to
raise/lower the motor and collet housing in the aluminum base. Now,
though, the aluminium base has a knob to squeeze a center aluminum
section to lock the motor. It's a variation on a theme that Ryobi, PC,
and others use to lock the motor housing to the router base. Also, there
is a "graduation" ring that rotates with the sleeve so that you can tell
relative depth-of-cut. (The old method used two stops and there was no
visual gauge to judge depth of cut).  

I haven't actually tried the new router yet, so we will see....



Doug


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:15 EST 1997
Article: 183680 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:33:04 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it
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Dan Wolf wrote:
> 
> I just bought a Contractors saw based on the positive info in the group.
> After assembly I noticed the blade doesn't retract all the way down.
> About 1/16" still extends above the table.  What's the problem?
> Shouldn't the blade drop all of the way down and into the table.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan
Dan,
I don't have a Delta, however I know that not all TS blades will retract
below the surface of the table. This may be the case with your model. I
have a Jet and the blade just drops below the surface by about a 1/16"
or less. 
Check the specs. that came with your saw. Usually that is one of the
items specified there. You may find that there's nothing wrong with your
saw, and that's just the way it was designed.


From maplelw@sover.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:16 EST 1997
Article: 183681 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:27:32 GMT
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>For 4" finished you would ask for 17/4 rough which you will not find. The 
>rules are:
>   rough in quarters of inch(even starting with 4/4 with 5/4 as only odd)
>   skip planed = rough - 1/8"
>   finished planed = rough - 1/4 (or 3/16)

>From  my experience, one could pick over the available pile at the yard
(if allowed and able to do so) and find 16/4 pieces thick enough and
flat enough to clean to 4". Lumber is frequently sufficiently
oversize. I regularly make 2" cubes out of 8/4 stock. In this case,
about 50% of the lumber in the pile is thick enough to get this sort
of yield. Another thing is to plane it yourself, a little at a time.
The mill will often simply hog it down, not wanting to pass it several
times. On 4/4 lumber planed myself, I can get it 99% clean at 7/8"
thick. The mill will tell you that 13/16 is the maximum and that there
could still be hit or miss.  

Mike Rainville



From riccardo@snet.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:17 EST 1997
Article: 183682 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 01:59:19 GMT
Organization: Quark Research Corporation
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Message-ID: <5dr85n$p3d@goofy.snet.net>
References: <5dk1sv$j0r@news.nwrain.net> <19970211033601.WAA06529@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) wrote:
>Yes, you're being VERY naive. I have one (year old). After a year of
>frustration I went out and bought a 12" INCA. Have you tried changing the
>angle to 45 degrees on the Sears?  It's murder. And, it's not just mine. I
>went to the store and tried out a few of theirs.  As you get closer and
>closer to 45 degrees, the resistance increases disproportionally to the
>point where you say 35 degrees is good enough.  I still have the Sears TS,
>but only for cross-cuts with a 7.5" thin-kerf blade and for dados. Also,
>with all the fiddling I did, I never once got a nice clean rip cut.  I had
>Sears service come out several times, but they were never able to help me.
>
>Let's see what other Craftsman's tools are dying on me: Electric drill
>(run out is enormous), belt sander, router (fortunately, I have some real
>routers so I'm not hurting there). I now have a whole shelf of moribund
>Craftsman power tools. Not quite sure what to do with them. They're not
>fully dead, so I hate to throw them away. On the other hand, if my kids
>ever piss me off enough I could always give them all to them.
>

Very close - relatives - I gave all my sears power tools to relatives. 
More exactly, unhandy relatives. They think I am a great guy! cmr















From riccardo@snet.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:18 EST 1997
Article: 183683 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 12 Feb 1997 02:11:32 GMT
Organization: Quark Research Corporation
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Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan) wrote:
>Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
>tools as I had.
>
>When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
>tools to build things with.  
>
>Remember the Craftsmanship of Norm Abrams?  Not the Commercialism of
>Norm Abrams....
>
>I know it's partly jelousy.  But man if I bought every gadget Norm has
>I wouldn't be able to afford any lumber..(not to mention "Antique
>Pine").
>
>Common Norm build something the old fashiion way... Make a mortis and
>tennon with a drill and a chisel... like I have to.  If nothing else
>use NEW Pine for something.
>
>I guess I could save up my PBS donation money and buy a "Dedicated
>Mortising Tool"
>but then how could my local station buy your show....
>
>I used to think it was so neat that you used a spindel sander on your
>drill press, Just like me... now the 5 hp super boss is bumped another
>coommonality we used to have.
>
>Okay use your Laser guided miter saw your 30in planer and 60in
>jointer... glue away with your 'Moistier Activated Glue" before you
>cordless biscut it and pnuematicly nail everything together or screw
>it together with a different screw gun for each type of screw... but
>let me ask you two questions.....
>
>Why do you wear a tool belt?  There aren't any tools on it
>
>Do yoy even own a Hammer?  Ya know the real non fiberglass reinforced
>non night vision type hammer.
>
>Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
>Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
>making the tools we HAVE work better for us..... 

<snip>



Sorry Alan ..... Norm built that half million dollar house he lives in by 
selling Delta planers and jointers to the great American 'Haves'. Indeed 
that is how he became one of them. It is they that suport the show that 
Delta "advertizes" on. ('public' television - give me a break). If you 
can't afford Delta - go watch Dean Johnson or something. Chuck Riccardo


































From rywoodview@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:18 EST 1997
Article: 183684 of rec.woodworking
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From: rywoodview@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta sliding table.
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:04:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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As another option, has anyone used the Sears sliding table on their
tablesaw?

Just looking at one poorly installed floor sample, it looks a bit flimsy,
but maybe it works well when installed with care oneself.  It is just
$150, so much less than the Delta, etc., competition.

BTW -- no, I am not a Sears fan, since my old Sears router, in an early
iteration of the magic self-adjusting height version, nearly ruined a
carefully built TS extension table's router insert cutout, which was the
very last job requested of it before its replacement by a very excellent
Hitachi M12V.

Regards, 
                Robb
+                                 +                                   +
      Robert B. Young                 'Woodview'
  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
                                            (716) 442-7830
+                                 +                                   +   
  
" . . . there is only one great thing,
             The only thing,
        To live to see the great day that dawns
             And the light that fills the world."
                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
+                                 +                                   +   
                            



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:19 EST 1997
Article: 183685 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:11:17 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3301CF85.6970@sadust.hill.com>
References: <5di233$m5j@thrush.sover.net> <32F6A28C.4511@mis.net> <32F6F42C.5F42@california.com> <44de995747@millard.demon.co.uk> <5dndnj$3n7@netnews.upenn.edu> <3301A146.1DE2@california.com>
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> 
> snip
> 
> 
> Oh, sorry I didn't solve all the world's problems. Then make a kerf
> splitter. Put it into the shop-made insert. For anti kickback, the board
> wheels are much better safety device anyway. Mount them on your fence.
> 
> Stan

Stan,
I've thought about the 'yellow buddies'. Do you use them?
It would seem to me that the one in the front would always be in the way
of your hand, or push stick, when making narrow rips, no? 
I know that you can flip the buddy up, but then it wouldn't be doing its
job - would it.
 
Anyone have any experience with these items? How do you like them?
I've been using my saw without a guard or splitter for a long time. I'm
well aware of the exposure and would like to put on a splitter and some
type of feather board arrangement or the buddies. The problem that I've
had with the splitter is that if it's not perfectly in line with the
blade AND straight up and down it causes the wood to bind, which exposes
me to more of chance of kickback than without it. 
Termite


From verneb@greynet.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:21 EST 1997
Article: 183686 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RouterTablewithURL
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:57:24 GMT
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Take a look on this home page for how to build one and other gadgets.
Sorry my last posting left off the URL  which is:-

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092


Verne




From rich@scf602.scf.lockheed.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:22 EST 1997
Article: 183687 of rec.woodworking
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From: Rich Hoffman <rich@scf602.scf.lockheed.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Lathe
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 06:39:20 -0800
Organization: V130
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Harold Clemens wrote:
> 
> Mike      atlas was bought out years ago  by clausing  2019 n. pitcher
> st
> kalamazoo mi 49001
> i have a 12" atlas and can still get parts  they also have parts for your
> 6" lathe      call the 800 operator for their number
> 
>                                                                 clem

   Clausing Service Center 
   811 Eisenhower Dr. So.
   P.O. box 877
   Goshen, IN 46527-0877
   219-533-0371
   219-533-0403 fax

   I recently bought a few pinion gears for my 6"(150 mm) Atlas lathe.
Although the castings are no longer in production, many of the small
parts are manufactured to the original B/P specification. The service
center stocks parts for these Atlas lathes. They are selling a new mini
lathe for about $795. 
-- 
Richard Hoffman


From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:23 EST 1997
Article: 183688 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 14:03:31 GMT
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In article <5dr8sk$p3d@goofy.snet.net>, Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net> wrote:

>Sorry Alan ..... Norm built that half million dollar house he lives in by 
>selling Delta planers and jointers to the great American 'Haves'. Indeed 
>that is how he became one of them. It is they that suport the show that 
>Delta "advertizes" on. ('public' television - give me a break). If you 
>can't afford Delta - go watch Dean Johnson or something. Chuck Riccardo
>

A bit defensive there?  Perhap we have one to many Delta machines in our shop 
or maybe some Jet models too?  I am sure that WGBH and Delta get their cash 
>from  the "haves", but I can't call it advertising on PUBLIC TV (yes, I am a 
bit defensive here) when he uses a variety of tools and has never pointed out 
that "Delta makes the very best" or some other 1950's sales-pitch slogan.  All 
of the (expensive) power tools he uses are available from a variety of 
manufacturers.

That said, I do agree with the original post about getting back to a realistic 
level of power tool ownership/use relative to weekend warriors.  Has anyone on 
this group ever actually written/talked to Norm about this subject?  It would 
be interesting to see his reaction...


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:24 EST 1997
Article: 183689 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: I hate spam, but I love this one ...
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:18:50 GMT
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Received an ad for tweezers via spam. Exquisitely polite. Targeted
directly for woodworkers. Very soft-sell. Don't answer and he won't bother
you again. People like that could give spammer's a good name. Wrote him a
note. This was his response (disclaimer in advance: I don't know him. I
don't have his tweezers yet. Blah, blah, blah):

Weasel (tm)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Subj:	Thank you!
Date:	97-02-11 09:53:20 EST
From:	W@winchell.com (Paul Winchell)
To:	Hackwood@aol.com

Dear Weasel,

Thank you for your kind message in message in response to my ad message.
Occasionally someone does take offense, and it always hurts me when they
do.  I try very hard to send messages only to people who would possibly
have a need for tweezers, and I also try never to send a second message to
anyone.

Like yourself, I am usually short of cash, too.  My partners and I seldom
have any work at all in the winter, and that is why I make these efforts
to
sell four or five tweezers in a week.  It's not a lot of money, but we
have
to do something when the snow is 30" deep.  :)

Anyway, I appreciate your saving my message.  If you want to send me your
mailing address, I will send you a pair of Sliver Grippers to help you do
battle with those "damned splinters," and you can send me a check whenever
you are able to.  


***
*** PERSONAL COMMENT. ANYBODY WHO WOULD DO THAT
*** HAS GOT TO BE HONEST. Just a Weasel's opinion.
***

I doubt you could know how much I appreciated your friendly reply.  Thank
you again.

Sincerely,

Paul Winchell
Buckingham, Quebec


PS.  "Weasel" is a great name.  Do you make a product and use that name? 




From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:25 EST 1997
Article: 183690 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 14:08:54 GMT
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In article <5dps9v$odb1@dilbert.whoi.edu>, peterl@tone.whoi.edu wrote:

>Expensive? Sure, maybe. But compare the cost of a good quality bench
>(maybe $2,000 for a good sized Ulima?) to the cost of the PC you are
>using to read rec.wordworking! Remember that your expensive bench will
>give you a lifetime of use, compared to 3-5 years for most computer junk.

Good point Peter.  I have had that reality hit me when I consider spending 
$300 on a new video card or a handful of new planes.  Hmm - I don't think the 
planes will need an upgrade any time soon (unless you count those Hock 
blades). ;D


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From keithhill_@_mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:26 EST 1997
Article: 183691 of rec.woodworking
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From: keithhill_@_mindspring.com (remove the _ before and after the @ to De-spam)  (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 14:30:28 GMT
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>when he uses a variety of tools and has never pointed out 
>that "Delta makes the very best" or some other 1950's sales-pitch slogan.  All 
>of the (expensive) power tools he uses are available from a variety of 
>manufacturers.
>
<<snip>>

"The Very Best" is a relative term.  Most professional shops consider Delta Base
line equipment, with bare minimal or less than satisfactory result.


Talk to the Germans, Austrians, or even the Italians and Spaniards and get their
opinion of "Delta: The Very Best".  Most Americans would be run off with their
tail between their legs.  Even from the European "hobbyist" 

If a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right. If a tool is worth purchasing,
purchase the right tool, once, one time.  With that said, there would be no
"Junk" out there in the market place, because no one would be buying it.


Sincerely,

Keith

Keith Hill, Project Manager, Forbes & Company
1002 Investment Blvd., Apex, NC. 27502-1954
(919)362-4277/387-7997(Fax)/303-0240(alt-Fax)
 
keithhill @ mindspring.com
www.mindspring.com/~keithhill/


From peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:27 EST 1997
Article: 183692 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:24:40 GMT
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In article <01bc1869$6f1f82a0$18651e81@wolf.il10.honeywell.com> Dan Wolf,
daniel.wolf@wolft.com writes:
>I just bought a Contractors saw based on the positive info in the group.
>After assembly I noticed the blade doesn't retract all the way down.
>About 1/16" still extends above the table.  What's the problem?
>Shouldn't the blade drop all of the way down and into the table.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan


I just bought a CS and it drops below the table.   What blade do you have
on the saw??
Do you find the adjustment for blade height hits a dead spot in the
middle??  is this normal??


From kenhorn@csn.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:27 EST 1997
Article: 183693 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ken Horner" <kenhorn@csn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Software for Woodworking
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:12:39 GMT
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Does anyone know of a good software program for laying out  plans and
providing the material list.



From fphowell@earthlink.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:28 EST 1997
Article: 183694 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 06:19:39 -0800
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Dan Wolf wrote:
> 
> I just bought a Contractors saw based on the positive info in the group.
> After assembly I noticed the blade doesn't retract all the way down.
> About 1/16" still extends above the table.  What's the problem?
> Shouldn't the blade drop all of the way down and into the table.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan

Dan

The blade should retract below the surface of the table. Call Delta's
support for help.

Frank Howell


From bilenkey@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:43:29 EST 1997
Article: 183695 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David T. Bilenkey" <bilenkey@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Robertson Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:31:57 -0500
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Any hardware history buffs out there?

I'm trying to find out when Robertson type (square recessed socket) screws first 
became generally available and used in Canada. If I'm not mistaken these screws are 
still pretty much only found in Canada, so this question might not be of interest to 
the Americans who read this group (then again maybe it will).

Any help appreciated.

-- 
David Bilenkey
Industrial Designer                       Telephone:              (613) 765-3476
Corporate Design Group                        Fax:              (613) 763-4904
Nortel Technology Ltd.                      e-mail:      bilenkey@nortel.ca
P.O. Box 3511, Station C
Ottawa, Ontario,
Canada K1Y 4H7


From kenhorn@csn.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:30 EST 1997
Article: 183696 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ken Horner" <kenhorn@csn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Software for Woodworkers
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:54:26 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
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Would appreciate hearing of a good software program that simplifys layout
drawings and might even prepare a materials and cutting guide. Any
available? 
kenhorn@csn.net


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:31 EST 1997
Article: 183697 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Techniques for Ungluing Wood Joints?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 15:11:15 GMT
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In a call to Franklin the rep said that both vinegar and heat will work on
the white glues like heat works on hide glue.


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:32 EST 1997
Article: 183698 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PVC Pipe & Static Electricity in Dust Collectors
Date: 12 Feb 1997 15:11:24 GMT
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Other comments on this have included running an outside wire with
pop-rivets through the PVC every 2 feet.  The wire of course goes to a
ground.  I'm going to use that approach on my 1HP that goes from flower to
flower like a bee.  Also have shop built cyclone tween tool and DC.


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:43:33 EST 1997
Article: 183699 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: ripping dowels?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 14:48:38 GMT
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Hi Gang

Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I 
do it without getting hurt?

Thanks
Ed



From mwcuther@digital.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:34 EST 1997
Article: 183700 of rec.woodworking
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From: mwcuther@digital.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 15:22:56 GMT
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> Any hardware history buffs out there?
> 
> I'm trying to find out when Robertson type (square recessed socket) screws 
> first 
> became generally available and used in Canada. If I'm not mistaken these 
> screws are 
> still pretty much only found in Canada, so this question might not be of 
> interest to 
> the Americans who read this group (then again maybe it will).
> 
> Any help appreciated.
> 
> -- 
> David Bilenkey
> Industrial Designer                       Telephone:              (613) 
> 765-3476
> Corporate Design Group                        Fax:              (613) 763-4904
> Nortel Technology Ltd.                      e-mail:      bilenkey@nortel.ca
> P.O. Box 3511, Station C
> Ottawa, Ontario,
> Canada K1Y 4H7
Au contraire! They are available in Ocala, Florida,cost no more, and I wouldn't 
use anything else 



From K.Thalmann@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:35 EST 1997
Article: 183701 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kerry Thalmann <K.Thalmann@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Threaded Inserts (2-56)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:03:23 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 18
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183701

CHIPCorp wrote:
> 
> While looking for stainless steel cross dowels, I came across 2-56
> threaded inserts that some one else had been looking for, @:
> http://microfasteners.com/nuts7.htm
> 
> Hope whoever was looking for these has found them already, or sees this
> message. I'm still looking for SS cross dowels/dowel nuts.

Hi,

I was the one looking for the small threaded inserts.  I have found
some other types (press in) in the small sizes, but these are the
first 2-56 brass, screw in threaded inserts I have seen.  They appear
to be exactly what I have been looking for.  Thanks for the pointer.

Kerry



From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:43:36 EST 1997
Article: 183702 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eucalyptus?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:10:53 +1100
Organization: RTA
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In article <32FFC1BD.5C11@global.net.au>, Jeff Edwards says...

> John Straffin wrote:
> > 
> > Is Eucalyptus wood any good?  Didn't see it in my local "we have every
> > wood" lumber store and there's a bunch of logs just lying around where
> > some trees were cleared by some trian tracks.  They've been lying
> > there for several months now, so I'd say nobody 'official' is doing
> > anything with them and was wondering if I should try.  :)
> > 
> > - John C. Straffin
> > straffin@evolveinc.com
> 
> Eucalyptus is genus name and covers about 2,000 individual species and
> sub groups.  
> Timbers range from common long grained semi-hard woods through to
> exquisite and rare desert hardwoods that a extremely sort after for
> musical instruments. 
> To know if it is "Any Good", you need to know which wood you are talking
> about and then what application you intend to use for. 
> Try and find out what sort of Eucalypt is is, then connect to the
> Australia Wood site at http://www.woodart.com.au/ and look in there for
> detailed info. 
> JEFF
> 
Jeff gives good advice on the eucalyptus ... if it's the right species, 
it's like gold and makes splendid furniture.

More importantly, what happened to the koalas that used to sit in the top 
of those trees?

Regards, Rick

To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From stkyfingr@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:37 EST 1997
Article: 183703 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fixing formica
Date: 12 Feb 1997 15:42:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<If you have a problem with delamination and you want to fix it right I
would use a little lacquer thinner in the problem area to expose
enough of it to do the necessary clean up of any foreign material and
give myself some room to work.>>

That is not good.  Do not ever use lacquer thinner to delaminate or flush
out spray equipment.  Lacquer thinner can leave an oily film which will
inhibit the new application of contact adhesive, and could lead to
delamination.  Use an approved solvent for any delaminating or flushing of
equipment.  You can use toluene if you want to use a flammable solvent or
1,1,1 trichloroethane (if you can still find it) or methylene chloride if
you want to use a N/F solvent.  These solvents are the main solvents used
in flammable and N/F contact adhesives to dissolve the neoprene into
solution.

If you do delaminate with solvent, you will want to give the material
several hours for the solvent to breath back out of the plywood or
particle board core.  Otherwise you will get solvent entrapment which will
lead to bubbling and/or edgelift.

<<Press the pieces back together, use a scrap of 2x4 and a hammer to
ensure you have good contact..>>

The correct method for pressure is a 3" J-roller.  A mallet by itself or
with a block is insufficient.  You must apply 25 lbs per sq. in. for
proper pressure.  The pressure applied by the head of the mallet spreads
out over the surface area of that mallet, plus you are not getting uniform
pressure in the surrounding area.  When a block is used with that mallet,
you are spreading out the pressure even further, resulting in lack of
pressure.  Let's say you use a block that is 4"X4" and hit it with a
mallet at 100 lbs. of pressure.  There are 16 sq. in. for that 100 lbs to
be dispersed, which means if it dispersed evenly, you would get 6.25
lbs/sq. in. of pressure.  This is inadequate.  However, the pressure is
not going to disperse evenly, you will get more in the middle of the block
where the mallet head hit and less pressure as it travels out to the edge
of the block.  USE A 3" J-ROLLER FOR PRESSURE.  The pressure is spread
along the very edge of the roller in contact with the surface, meaning you
press down with 75 lbs to achieve 25 lbs/sq. in.

<<Like someone alrady mentioned you needs two coats for best results.>>

Not necessarily.  If after applying the first coating of adhesive and
allowing it to dry, and when it is ready to index together, the adhesive
surface on both the HPL and the core is shiney, then you have applied
enough adhesive.  If however you have some dull areas, then you did not
apply enough adhesive, had soak in, or a combination of both.  Dull areas
would have to be re-applied and allowed to dry.  Double coating is usually
done on very porous substrates such as plywood, or on the edges of the
core.  The first coat acts as a sealer, preventing soak in of the second
coating.


Sticky Fingers


From VDDX29A@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:38 EST 1997
Article: 183704 of rec.woodworking
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From: VDDX29A@prodigy.com (Mr. Tom Meadows)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For Sale
Date: 12 Feb 1997 15:52:52 GMT
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Subject: Re: For Sale

Frank,

Where are you located at?

Thanks

Tom Meadows
Creative Works Custom Woodworking
Joplin MO




From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:43:38 EST 1997
Article: 183705 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:03:38 UNDEFINED
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In article <3300DB70.B2D@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> writes:
>From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
>Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
>Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:49:52 -0500

>haubert@mbi.org wrote:
>> 
>> Tim Gillespie writes:
>>
>> >Dave wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
>> >> HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
>> >> over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
>> 
>> >Yeah! I noticed. He must have changed his hair or something too, he
>> >looks younger. Maybe its all that weight he has lost.

 
>> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
>> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
>> less fancy tools.
>> 
>So just what is the scoop on "The New Yankee Workshop"?  Are new
>episodes being produced and aired?  My PBS station isn't carrying it
>anymore and they've moved "This Old House" and "Woodwright's Shop".
>They also appear to have dropped "Hometime" but I really won't miss
>that one.  There doesn't seem to be any mention of NYWS at WGBH's 
>home page but PBS's page talks about the "ninth season" as if it
>were airing new shows.  Anybody here REALLY know what's going on?


Yes, there are still new shows being made.  Every station can show what it 
wants to; ie what it thinks will result in the most contributions.  Typically 
Norm beats Roy, since more $$ are spent on power tools.

Rich




From emercer@central.cis.upenn.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:39 EST 1997
Article: 183706 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Eric A. Mercer" <emercer@central.cis.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:01:58 -0500
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, GRASP Lab
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Stev wrote:
> 
> >Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
> >tools as I had.
> >
> >When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
> >tools to build things with.
> >
> [snipped]
> 
> >Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
> >Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
> >making the tools we HAVE work better for us.....
> >
> >Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
> >dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
> >days....but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....
> >
> >I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....
> >
> >Just my thoughts....
> >
> >Alan
> 
> You are right. I actually watched this show the other day. I learned
> some. If I ever buy some of the tools he was using, I could apply
> what I learned.
> 
> stev
> 

Can't really say that I blame him.  If we could afford it, how many of
us could resist getting a nuclear powered, laser guided table saw with
radar tracking attachments and computer controlled alignment (accurate
down to 0.0000001 inch).  Add in the kevlar helmet & body armor
(remember: shop safety), and you really have something neat.  Who cares
if anyone can afford it.  It's not meant to be practical, it's meant to
be cool.  If I had money to blow, I'd be getting that crap, too.  Norm's
just trying to blur the line between his show & Tim Allen's.  I'm
waiting for the day when Norm gets a CAD/CAM shop.  

"This week we'll be copying this beautiful cabinet which some poor slob
spent 6 months building by hand over 200 years ago.  All I have to do is
push this button on the new Delta CAD/CAM woodworker 2000, and it pops
out this chute over here.  Of course, a measured drawring is available."


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:40 EST 1997
Article: 183707 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Message-ID: <8D1E26C.023301277A.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 10:20:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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Good luck on yer Oak Limb,However with all the Millions of BF of
free,seasoned,Planed,aged Wood lying around everywhere you could look i
ask WHY BOTHER With limbs? In my Area once a week folks toss out
Furniture,Wood,etc etc etc and its all free and i even make stuff from
it,,Funny thing is that Folks are throwin away Nice Wood Furniture so
they can go buy imitation! Ethan Allen,Broyhill,etc are just a few to be
found,,I even found 100yr old handsaws! I imagine your limb would be
good since many old boatbuilders would use some limbs for specific boat
components..Good luck
                              Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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From sjhaberk@mwci.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:41 EST 1997
Article: 183708 of rec.woodworking
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From: sjhaberk@mwci.net (Steven J. Haberkorn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for plans
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:35:27 GMT
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:05:21 -0800, David Trofimuk
<trofimuk@v-wave.com> wrote:

>> I'm looking for plans to build a bunk bed for my two young sons.  Any
>> ideas on where to look would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Brian
>House of Tools had some by WoodSmith   only $41

Also check out the Woodworker's Discount Books.  They have a plan in
there for $12.50.  1-800-378-4060.  Their catalog has a lot of good
plans in it for relatively cheap prices.  Got the plans for the baby's
crib myself.

Steve


From !muldrew@nbnet.nb.ca Sat Feb 15 11:43:42 EST 1997
Article: 183709 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Roots" <!muldrew@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
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> abraham@cedar-rapids.net wrote:
> > 
> > I recently posted a message and requested E-mail only responses because
> > every time I return to rec.WW, my post always disappears within a day
or
> > sometimes even hours. I know I must be doing something wrong, but I
> > don't request this beacuse I'm lazy, just inexperienced with the
> > functions of the newsgroup.


If you see it posted, then it is not anything you are doing.  Posts usually
disappear for two reasons.

1)  Your internet provider is deleting them.   This depends on either
traffic in the newsgroup or a provider that deletes quickly to save space. 
 Call them and ask.

2)  The message is there, but you are not seeing it because your program
has marked it as read.



From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:43 EST 1997
Article: 183710 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:59:44 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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David T. Bilenkey wrote:
> 
> Any hardware history buffs out there?
> 
> I'm trying to find out when Robertson type (square recessed socket) screws first
> became generally available and used in Canada. If I'm not mistaken these screws are
> still pretty much only found in Canada, so this question might not be of interest to
> the Americans who read this group (then again maybe it will).

I use them all the time. I am as American as apple pie (although I
aspire to become a member of the trilateral commission to see what it's
all about because I still don't beleave you conspiracy fools).

You can get them from McFeely's -- catalog available at (800) 443-7937
-- and  also Bruss -- catalog avilable at (800) 536-0009.

I just read about this recently, but my recollection is real poor, so I
welcome all corrections and updates.

In the early 1900s (prehaps around WWI or a little later) both the
square head and the phillips head screws and drivers were developed.
Through some shenanagins, the philips design was adopted  as the
preferable fastener here in America (was it government specs or some big
catalog company like Sears that was responsible?) even though it is by
far an inferior design (for all of you who do not think so, you cannot
get nearly as much torque or fingertip control with a philips
screwdriver -- and even pitifully less with a flat edge design -- as you
can with the square tip).

I figured that my scant command of the facts is better than none. I have
no intention of revising history.
-- 
Daniel


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:44 EST 1997
Article: 183711 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Jointing prob. /User error or Alignment?
Message-ID: <3301F5E5.29E2@qgraph.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:55:01 -0600
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I have a PM #54 6" jointer.  I seem to be getting concave joints from
it.  Both on edge jointing and surface.

I placed a 4' straight across the tables and placing a flashlight behind
it I see very minimal light and at no point can I pass a sheet of
notebook paper under the straight edge.  I think this tells me my tables
are not sagging.  I suspect my technique for feeding the wood through is
not correct.  

My latest was trying to get the rear fence for my Tablesaw Crosscut crib
to be flat.  I had a 1x4 to surface joint.  FRom what I recall, I fed
the piece in with my hands supporting it to the rear and as it crossed
the knives I moved one hand to the other side.  I don't recall
supporting over the knives, but I might have.  

Can someone review proper technique for me and any pointers, Jointing
always seems to give me troubles....Thanks in advance

Damian



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:45 EST 1997
Article: 183712 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side?? (hopper joint)
Date: 12 Feb 1997 16:39:11 GMT
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In article <3301231E.18C4@rt66.com>, colinml@rt66.com says...
>
>John Paquay wrote:
>
>> cutting miters and hopper joints.  
>
>Ok, I gotta ask:  What's a "hopper" joint?
>-Colin

A  hopper joint is basically just a miter joint, but it's a compound
miter.
-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:46 EST 1997
Article: 183713 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Got my JET Bandsaw, Wheel Alingment ?????
Message-ID: <3301F789.D1E@qgraph.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:02:01 -0600
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I got my 14" Jet bandsaw last might.  I did not purchase the book on
bandsaws because I found I have an article in an old WOOD magazine on
alignment, so I am following that.

To my suprise I found the wheels were not coplaner.  In tilting the
upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not touch the straight
edge.  Per the article I placed a washer behind the rear wheel to bring
it out a bit and then I was able to align everything.

Is this normal to have to do this to a new saw?  The article leads me to
believe as long as it needs < 1/4" shim it's ok??  Any experiences with
this?? 

It runs fine though!
Damian



From Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:46 EST 1997
Article: 183714 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:16:05 GMT
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I have to agree with Jim...

I too have the 6" Super Dado....You really don't need to spend the
extra money on the 8".  

Two reasons not to get the 8" are ....

1) 99.9995% of the cuts you do with a dado blade are under 1" in
depth.

I think the 6" super cuts up to an 1.5 inches.... I'm not sure I
hardly ever use it above 5/16 ".

2) The Mass of an 8" Stacked dado set to a 3/4" witdth is ALOT of
blade for a 1.5 hp Contractors saw to swing.

Not that a good CS (Jet is an Excellent Saw) can't swing it,but why
put that extra strain... (specially when cutting hard hardwoods like
Maple or Beech....) on your tools.

Alan



>I have the Freud 6" Super Dado for my Delta CS - as good as they come,
>with crisp, clean walls & FLAT bottoms. The included shim set is very
>handy when cutting dados for all the odd-ball size plywood. I've found
>the 6" will handle just about anything I've wanted to do without taxing
>the arbor & motor on my CS...
>
>Jim

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
  guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

***********************************************************


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:47 EST 1997
Article: 183715 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: 12 Feb 1997 17:22:10 GMT
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In article <32ffbcb9.8316208@news1.mnsinc.com>, RickM@mnsinc.com writes:

>I don't want to get into a Norm debate, but it's a fact that he uses
>several brands of routers, and he generally covers the nameplates on
>all his tools, even the sponsors.

True!!  I saw Norm at a home show a couple of years ago.  In answer to a question about the source and brands of his equipment he told us that many manufacturers send him tools unsolicited and he uses them all, but the brand names are covered or removed and he endorses none.


From jbt@mti.cdc.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:48 EST 1997
Article: 183716 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J. Brent Taylor" <jbt@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 12:06:01 -0500
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Dave Peritt wrote:
> 
> I have the Delta CS.  The removal of the stock guard is difficult.  For
> adjusting etc... you should be able to wing nut off the guard easily.  In

I think I found a redeeming feature of Craftsman table saws.  I can romove
or install my guard in about 5 seconds, so I have no excuse not to use it.

Brent Taylor


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:49 EST 1997
Article: 183717 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: 12 Feb 1997 17:15:01 GMT
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In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>, abacab@nb.sympatico.ca says...
>
>For those who posted that were crapping on the use of the metric system,
>let me say this about that.

Wasn't me.  At times I like metric. However...

>
>The American's have been fighting about changing
>officially for years now, as they always tend to believe whatever they do
>is the best, but it's also their pride and joy American muscle cars with
>the big 5.0 plaques on the side.

There's actually almost no fighting about it.  The cause of any discord
about making an abrupt, official change is the billions of dollars in taxpayer
money that would be required.  Canadians don't worry about paying taxes,
I realize, but it p*sses most Americans off.  So the change is being
implemented gradually, though too much so for some.  We all resign
ourselves to the fact that it will be the system of the not-so-distant
future.  As for American 'muscle cars', there hasn't been a real American
muscle car made in more than 25 years, and I believe the decal on the side
read 396 or 427.

>
>About the system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre of water
>weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar comparisons
>for lengths.

Of course it makes sense.  That's why it's used exclusively in the medical
and scientific communities, right here in the lame old USA.

>
>I hope that makes sense to some, and I'm sure it will break open a huge
>argument with others.  I'm lucky enough to be at the age where I bounce
>back and forth between the two.  I favor metric for determining the
>weather, etc, and standard for woodworking and the gas usage of my car.

I agree.  I've heard dozens of of arguyments over the years from both sides
of the fence.  The most ridiculous one, of course, is that the metric system
more accurate.  How can 1/32" be less accurate than .79375 mm?  They're
Identical.  The advantage to the English system is that it is based entirely
upon 2's.  I know that if I have to divide 1/32" by two, which is something we
do alot of in woodworking and machining, it's 1/64".  I don't even have to
think about it for a millisecond.  Try that with .79375 mm, or, for that
matter, with 27.3 mm.


-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From howey@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:50 EST 1997
Article: 183718 of rec.woodworking
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From: Charles Howey  <howey@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Euro Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:32:51 GMT
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Hi:
	When I had my kitchen remodeled the drawer slides and such were mounted
with short, fat coarse threaded screws which were perfect for such duty.
	I think these are sometimes called Euro screws and are associated with
the European type hardware.
	I have searched catalogs and hardware stores, but I have never found
anyplace to buy them.
	Does anyone have a source for these little rascals?
					howey@ix.netcom.com


From draka@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:51 EST 1997
Article: 183719 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan DeRight <draka@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UNIMAT 1 & lathes
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:52:10 +0000
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I saw an ad for this little tool in the latest issue of WOOD magazine,
and was wondering if anyone had used one.  Its supposed metal working
capabilities seem a bit farfetched, but I suppose it's possible.  Being
made of aluminum and plastic, it's hardly a production tool, but I was
considering it more for the occasional small turning, and as a mini
drill press.

	If I chose to get simply a mini lathe, any suggestions there?


From bmoore@micron.net Sat Feb 15 11:43:52 EST 1997
Article: 183720 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Moore <bmoore@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hocky Stick
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:59:58 -0800
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My neighbor's 12 year old boy seems interested in woodworking, 
so I foolishly suggested he think of something he's like to
build. Oh well, I guess I started that way too! Anyway, he wants
to build an ice hockey stick. This brings up some interesting
questions:
1. What kind of wood is typically used? Is it the same kind of
   wood for the handle and the blade? (Hope I've got these terms OK).
2. I assume there are some standards out there, as to length, weight,
   etc. These may not be too important to a 12 year old, but if we
   can build it right, so much the better.
3. If the handle and blade are typically made from two different pieces
   of wood, what is the recommended joint? First impulse is to make it a
   mitered bridle joint.
4. What kind of wear strip is typically used on the bottom of the blade?
5. Most important: can anyone point me to some plans!?

I'd sure like to get this kid interested in woodworking. He seems like
a great kid, and we need some new blood in this hobby!

------------------------------------------------
- Bill Moore                 208.773.1317      -
- 3675 W. Hollister Dr.      208.773.6685 FAX  -
- Post Falls, idaho  83854   bmoore@micron.net -
------------------------------------------------


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:53 EST 1997
Article: 183721 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Premium vs Carpenter's grade?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 17:47:02 GMT
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In article <5dquh4$fkn@fido.asd.sgi.com>, mikemac@engr.sgi.com says...
>
>
>   A lit more info may help, although I doubt it based upon what I've seen
>posted so far. The plywood I'm refering to has a hardwood veneer on both sides.
>It's not the cheap pine plywood. For example, the premium 3/4" birch costs
>$68.80 a sheet. The carpenter's grade 3/4" birch costs $46.59. Similarly, for
>red oak, the costs are $78.40 and $49.95 respectively....
>
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com

The grade _carpenters'_ is definitely not an official grade, though _premium_
grade has been around a long time.  Now days, hardwood-veneered
plywoods are graded with a letter/number combination, the fine points of
which I've forgotten, since I generally only buy A2, which has top quality
veneers on both sides, but definitely has a better side.  I also occasionally
buy A3 walnut ply, which has walnut veneer on one side and birch on the
back side. The A2 plywoods I see have rotary cut or bookmatched veneers
on the good face, and plain flitched, unmatched veneers on the back side.
My guesses, based on the price difference, are:

Thickness of the veneers.  Historically, veneers are cut to 1/28" thickness (don't
ask me why), but nowdays they're also widely available in 1/64" thickness.

The carpenter's grade may be A3 or lower.

The core is probably drastically different.  A2 panels are completely free of
voids.  A3 panels typically have cores of low-grade veneer or particle board.

Incidentally, the official grade is usually stamped on the edge of the panel
by the manufacturer.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From mike_tripp@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:54 EST 1997
Article: 183722 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike_tripp@dell.com (Mike Tripp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Solid  Core Oak Veneer Composite Fire Door
Date: 12 Feb 1997 18:02:54 GMT
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logic@prairie.lakes.com writes:

>At a recent auction, I managed to buy 4 solid core oak veneer composite fire
>doors (Weyerhauser).  Each is 1 3\4" x 24" x 80", very heavy, and dead flat.  
>Anyone have any idea what the core material is?

"Fire doors" are filled with non-flammable material (not wood) to prevent 
fire from spreading through them.  I once hung them years ago in a Sears 
Auto Center, between the bay/pit area (where the fire would theoretically 
originate) and the office counter area.  Wasn't allowed to cut any openings 
in the door, but in the course of attaching handles, kickplates, and mounting 
automatic closers, I did have to drill a few holes, which yielded white chalky 
matter that was similar to gypsum inside...though a bit caustic to sweaty skin.

>Does the above plan appear sound?  Any comments, suggestions, etc. greatfully
>appreciated.

Plenty of heft, and warpage due to humidity shouldn't be a biggie...but you'll 
have to be careful not to penetrate the outer veneer with tools and I'm 
betting that you'll  have to line the holes to keep the dogs from chewing 
up the core material. 

Mike
















From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:55 EST 1997
Article: 183723 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rottenstone
Date: 12 Feb 1997 17:53:06 GMT
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In article <19970211235900.SAA20684@ladder01.news.aol.com>, craig1708@aol.com says...
>
>Depending on the finish you are polishing, water works well, as does a
>light oil like baby oil. It acts as a lubricant keeping the rottenstone
>from scratching the surface.
>A small amount is all that is needed, just enough to wet the surface.
>
>

Just a quick note/addendum:
Using water as a lubricant will give you a different finish from using oil.
Oil is used when a more satiny finish is the objective, and water is the
lubricant used for high gloss finishes.  Of course, the degree of gloss you'll
end up with are still limited by the inherent sheen of the finish.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:56 EST 1997
Article: 183724 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointing prob. /User error or Alignment?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 18:12:54 GMT
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If you are getting a cup in the middle, then your tables are not adjusted
correct.  Now that you have get it close with your straight edge (may not
be straight!), run some test pieces and adjust the table until there is no
cup.  You'll have to play with it until it's right.  Once adjusted you
should not have a problem.


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:57 EST 1997
Article: 183725 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: 12 Feb 1997 18:20:49 GMT
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In article <33002E48.1389@worldnet.att.net>, kitatt@worldnet.att.net says...
>
>I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
>mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
>Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
>screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
>tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.
>
>In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
>locktite yet, but will.
>
>Any other suggestions?

A common method of locking in a set screw is to add another screw on
top of the first, wedging the two together against the tapped threads.  It's
a good solution, and good insurance if you have enough thread available
to add a second screw.  Either way, Locktite will work.  Do go through
whatever trouble you need to to assure that the screw is as tight as possible.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From dunnc@[no_spam]edsug.com Sat Feb 15 11:43:58 EST 1997
Article: 183726 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Horror Fright has a website!!!!
Message-ID: <1997Feb11.162327.27@bbs.ug.eds.com>
From: Chris Dunn <"dunnc"@[no_spam]edsug.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 16:27:52 -0800
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Harbor Freight has a website at:

	http://www.harborfreight.com

Has anyone tried it out yet? I did. It took forever to come up and every
link I tried either timed out or returned a "server could be down or not
responding" message. Either it is extremely busy or maybe the site is
one of those cheap knockoffs from China ......
-- 
Chris Dunn
dunnc@edsug.com


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:43:59 EST 1997
Article: 183727 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 18:31:04 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5dsl86$kir@thor.pla-net.net>, eladendo says...

>Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I 
>do it without getting hurt?
>
>Thanks
>Ed
>

I like these kinds of questions, so I'll have a stab at it, primarily because this
is such a frightening one...

Don't try this method until you get more feedback.

This is how I'd do it:  Go to a good lumber supply and buy half-rounds.

I can think of a few ways to rip dowels.  Unfortunately, I wouldn't recommend
them to anybody because they're very complicated, and if not set up perfectly,
very dangerous...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From rsadur@intercall.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:00 EST 1997
Article: 183728 of rec.woodworking
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From: rsadur@intercall.com (Jersey Bob)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Band Saw or Scroll Saw?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:41:58 GMT
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I have been making odds and ends of projects with a Radial Saw, 11/2
HP router and table, drills, circular saw and jig saw. Since I only
deal with 4x8 occasionaly, I do not want to steal space for table saw
stuff.
However, there are limits to precision work with hardwood and soft
with my present shop.. Any reccomendation on what the next tool should
be?
Bob S, Wayne NJ



From jacobss@gov.on.ca Sat Feb 15 11:44:01 EST 1997
Article: 183729 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Jacobs <jacobss@gov.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Surplus Cabinet Doors - Toronto area
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 14:11:15 -0800
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I have about 100 cabinet doors that are surplus to my current needs. 
All are solid oak frame, brand new, recessed panel, finished in either
natural or bleached oak, and come with a pair of Blum hinges (also brand
new).  I have created a spreadsheet of sizes and prices but I think I'd
like to get rid of these as a lot.  I'm in Mississauga.  If you have any
interest, or want to see the spreadsheet PLEASE E-MAIL me- since I may
never see your posting!

Steve


From hodcarry@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:02 EST 1997
Article: 183730 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:33:23 GMT
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I think part of the fun is seeing all of the toys.  a lot of folks go to
woodworking shows for the same reason knowing they will never buy alll
sorts of ded. machines.  an idea for PBS is there a British Norm?


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:03 EST 1997
Article: 183731 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Odd William Alden Happenings
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:38:13 GMT
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Off the point even a little bit more. We went to an antique shop and fell
in love with a large framed painting. Problem is, forgot my credit cards
and check book and I certainly didn't have enough cash on me (big ticket
item). Guy says, "Just send me the money". I ask "You want any ID or
anything". He says "Nope".  Similar situation. All 5 of us go out to a
restaurant in a major blizzard (don't ask why). When we finally get there,
once again no cash, only an ATM card. Due to the blizzard, the entire net
is down. Can't get any money. Go back to the restaurant, and say let's go,
no money. Manager overhears and says "Ahh, just send me the money, here's
my card".

What does this have to do with woodworking, uhhhh, the frame was made from
wood and was simply gorgeous.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Odd William Alden Happenings
From: "Andrew Patterson" <aep@nosc.mil>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:41:51 GMT
Message-ID: <01bc1863$e9bdcbd0$94883180@ifozdex>

>  If someone sends you something unsolicited in the  US mail  you are
> under no obligation to return or pay for it.

True, but (and this is a guess on my part) if you order something and they
send the wrong item by mistake this may not be considered unsolicited.
Besides, you are correct--honesty is really the best thing! Cheers.

Andrew


From johndoe@megsinet.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:04 EST 1997
Article: 183732 of rec.woodworking
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From: <johndoe@megsinet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:37:53 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org writes: > In article <3300DB70.B2D@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> writes:
> >From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
> >Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
> >Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:49:52 -0500
> 
> >haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> >> 
> >> Tim Gillespie writes:
> >>
> >> >Dave wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Has anyone Noticed how sparse Norm,s shop is since he moved to
> >> >> HGTV. All his fancy tools are gone. It looks as though they ran
> >> >> over to a local garage sale and picked up tools to do the show?
> >> 
> >> >Yeah! I noticed. He must have changed his hair or something too, he
> >> >looks younger. Maybe its all that weight he has lost.
> 
>  
> >> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
> >> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
> >> less fancy tools.
> >> 
> >So just what is the scoop on "The New Yankee Workshop"?  Are new
> >episodes being produced and aired?  My PBS station isn't carrying it
> >anymore and they've moved "This Old House" and "Woodwright's Shop".
> >They also appear to have dropped "Hometime" but I really won't miss
> >that one.  There doesn't seem to be any mention of NYWS at WGBH's 
> >home page but PBS's page talks about the "ninth season" as if it
> >were airing new shows.  Anybody here REALLY know what's going on?
> 
> 
> Yes, there are still new shows being made.  Every station can show what it 
> wants to; ie what it thinks will result in the most contributions.  Typically 
> Norm beats Roy, since more $$ are spent on power tools.
> 
> Rich
> 
> I have been looking for the NYWS on HGTV,but our local CATV
  has not aired any shows that I am aware of. What day and time
  do you guys get Norm's NYWS/HGTV?

  ROSCOE 



From apk@peabody.jhu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:05 EST 1997
Article: 183733 of rec.woodworking
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From: apk@peabody.jhu.edu (Alan P. Kefauver)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Adding Delta BS Height Attach.
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:39:33 GMT
Organization: HCF - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland, USA
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The top is HEAVY. Have a helper. Did mine upright. Had to pry the
halves apart with a big screwdriver and a light (well, not so light)
hammer tap. (Rubber mallet) Had to get a large wrench for the nut and
bolt at Sears. If I recall, you need a closed end wrench because an
open end is too wide for the casting. The nut and the bolt take
different sizes too!

droseman@erols.com (David Roseman) wrote:

>On 6 Feb 1997 14:49:53 GMT, stevel1994@aol.com (SteveL1994) wrote:
>
>>I just recieved the height extension for my 14" delta bandsaw.  I'll
>>install it this weekend.  
>>
>>Anyone have any tips/recommendations to offer (like how to remove the bolt
>>the holds the top half on)?
>
>With the nut removed, the bolt will come out when the halves are
>separated.  There's the rub. From my experience, plan on this testing
>your patience.  There are alignment pins that are machined to a press
>fit, and the halves can thus be a bear to separate.  You may want to
>have someone help due to the weight of the castings.  Some WD-40 might
>find its way in and help.  As I recall (tho its been a few years), I
>lay the saw on its side and finally had to persuade the halves apart
>by tapping lightly with a hammer on a thin but stiff-bladed putty
>knife _uniformly_ around the edges.  I know this sounds Phillistine.
>I'd wait for a few more posts this weekend for others with more recent
>experience, tho I don't think the saw has changed at all in this
>respect. I recommend checking the alignment of the wheels with a
>straightedge both before and after you make the modification to be
>sure they're coplaner.  That way if you have a tracking problem,
>you'll have reduced at least one variable to trouble-shoot. dcr



From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:06 EST 1997
Article: 183734 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UPS delivery policy
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:47:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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This past summer, UPS guy comes by with a piece of paper and asks if we
ever received that item. I didn't know anything about it, so I ask wifey
(it was hers) and she didn't remember getting the package (just some
curtains). He asks me to sign. I sign. Now, UPS will no longer drop
packages at my door unless I sign for it which is a major drag. We've
never had a package stolen or waylaid before so I suspect UPS screwed up
somewhere. I say, "No problem, we'll take the risk. Just drop the
packages.". They say "No can do. We had to pay for the loss. There's
nothing you can sign or do to change that". Curious, we never did get the
curtains so how did UPS have to pay for it? Even more curious is that
we've never even filed for a loss.

Why is this note in rec.ww? Because I suspect lots of you get UPS
deliveries from mail orders and if you ever sign that UPS paper that says
you didn't get a package, then you're flagged for life. If you didn't get
something and it's only a few dollars (like in my case), it's better to
simply forget about it and eat the loss.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"



From mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:07 EST 1997
Article: 183735 of rec.woodworking
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From: mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:04:28 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame
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Hackwood (hackwood@aol.com) wrote:
: This past summer, UPS guy comes by with a piece of paper and asks if we
: ever received that item. I didn't know anything about it, so I ask wifey
: (it was hers) and she didn't remember getting the package (just some
: curtains). He asks me to sign. I sign. Now, UPS will no longer drop
: packages at my door unless I sign for it which is a major drag. We've
: never had a package stolen or waylaid before so I suspect UPS screwed up
: somewhere. 

[SNIP]

I have never liked the policy of them just leaving things on my porch
without someone being home.  Now that I know I can have this changed
I'll have to call them up.  They have left very expensive things
sitting on my front porch in plain view of the neighborhood and it's a
typical town style neighborhood where the houses are cloes enough to
each other to practically touch roofs.  Now that my wife is home all
the time and on occasion we get something delivered they don't even
bother to stop.  They knock on the door, drop the package on the ground
and run like the wind back to their truck.  I know they are busy
but couldn't they wait for someone to get the door?

Anyway...I'd much rather be on the "don't leave things without a signature"
list than not.  
-- 
Mike Buening 
Dept. of Chemistry and Biochemistry
University of Notre Dame
mbuening@argon.helios.nd.edu        http://www.nd.edu/~mbuening


From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:07 EST 1997
Article: 183736 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for Clamp Caddy Plans
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:18:22 GMT
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Looking for a recent article on building a movable Bar and C clamp caddy. 
Does anyone out there remember when and where it was published.  Also an
article on taking a picture of out of a book and turning it into a
measured shop drawing.

Any help on these two items would be appreciated.

John @  JSurpre53.aol.com


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:08 EST 1997
Article: 183737 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Question on Bench grinder & burning.
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:54:23 GMT
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I have a 8" bench grinder with a 8"x1" pink Norton stone (fine). The
grinder runs at 1725 rpm. I set my plane irons on the Veratis jig and do a
quick light pass then dunk the iron into ice water with each and every
pass. The edges still turn blue. The stone has been trued with a diamond
point.

Is there any way I can slow the grinder down like you can with those
attachments you add onto routers?  I'd like to run the grinder a lot
slower to avoid the burning.  TIA.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"



From EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:09 EST 1997
Article: 183738 of rec.woodworking
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From: EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router used in router table
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:29:01 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
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In <csmgc.15.3300E9E4@ux1.cts.eiu.edu>, csmgc@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Mike Clayton) writes:
>When using a panel raising bit with a router in a table is the bit completely
>outside the router base?  Or should you only buy bits that fit within the
>inside diameter of your router's base?
>
>Thanks,   Mike

My old router table setup (Craftsman router on a Craftsman table) had
the problem of the table had a smaller hole than the panel-raising bit
I used.  The table's metal, so none of this cutting a larger hole.
What worked for me was to set the bit above the table, but then I _raised
the table_, so to speak, by adding a 1/4 inch ply surface with a cutout for
the bit on which I slid the panel.  That way I could raise the bit
pass-by-pass into the work until the panel was "raised".
YMMV.

- Mike

 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************
  Michael E. Thompson (MichaelT@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com)
                       T/L 678-0779  (512) 838-0779
                       IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************



From peterl@tone.whoi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:10 EST 1997
Article: 183739 of rec.woodworking
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From: peterl@tone.whoi.edu (Peter Lemmond)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 12 Feb 1997 18:03:28 GMT
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In article <3301E976.73AF@central.cis.upenn.edu>, "Eric A. Mercer" <emercer@central.cis.upenn.edu> writes:
>Stev wrote:
>> 
>> >Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
>> >tools as I had.
>> >
>> >When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
>> >tools to build things with.
>> >
>> [snipped]
>> 
>> >Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
>> >Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....give us a tip on
>> >making the tools we HAVE work better for us.....
>> >
>> >Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
>> >dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
>> >days....but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....
>> >
>> >I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....
>> >
>> >Just my thoughts....
>> >
>> >Alan
>> 
>> You are right. I actually watched this show the other day. I learned
>> some. If I ever buy some of the tools he was using, I could apply
>> what I learned.
>> 
>> stev
>> 
>
>Can't really say that I blame him.  If we could afford it, how many of
>us could resist getting a nuclear powered, laser guided table saw with
>radar tracking attachments and computer controlled alignment (accurate
>down to 0.0000001 inch).  Add in the kevlar helmet & body armor
>(remember: shop safety), and you really have something neat.  Who cares
>if anyone can afford it.  It's not meant to be practical, it's meant to
>be cool.  If I had money to blow, I'd be getting that crap, too.  Norm's
>just trying to blur the line between his show & Tim Allen's.  I'm
>waiting for the day when Norm gets a CAD/CAM shop.  
>
...snip...

Hate to get sucked into Norm-threads, but I think many are being pretty
unfair to the guy. His shop tools are really not that impressive.
Setting aside the Hitachi resawing band saw recently added, nearly all
of his tools are only medium-to-high end consumer-grade only stuff. Do
you really think the Delta 14" Band Saw is the ultimate band saw on the
market?  Even Delta make a couple of bigger/nicer units, not to mention
the serious, commercial grade saws out there. He seemed to get
alot of miles out of his Delta 12" Planar. Outside of some imported
clones, this is about the smallest, cheapest planar available. Having
multiple, handheld routers, each pre-loaded with a favorite router bit
may seem extravagent, but it is common practice in commercial shop. You
can get 3 Porter Cable 690's for less than $500. Sure, that's a hunk of
money, but these will last at long time in a one-man shop. For many of
us weekend and/or evening amateurs, would probably last a lifetime.

Off the top of my head, I'd bet Norm's power tool collection is
probably worth only $10,000 to $12,000. I know this is more than I can
spend this weekend/month/year, and that very few folks here in r.ww
could affford this either. But purchased over a 5 to 10 year period, it
is not really out of line. Just compare that 12 grand to the amount of
money you might have spent over the last ten years on computer junk:
that old $3,000 Apple II and $4,000 IBM-PC AT and $3,000 Toshiba 386
LapTop, not to mention the dot-matrix printers and 2400 baud modems --
all that stuff is now sitting in your closet, gathering dust, and
probably is not worth even 1/10th of what you paid of it.

Could Norm build the stuff he does with a significantly smaller (and
cheaper) tool collection? Of course. But he has been at this a long
time now. Do you think you'll be using the same tools 10 years from now
as you do now?

For me, there is really only one "tool" that Norm has that I really
drool over, one that I think of as being almost unattainalbe for me --
the shop building itself! A dedicated building, with storage space, an
office, separate finishing room, and windows and skylights sure beats
the heck out of my dark, dreary basement.

-Peter




From garr==ison@tle.enet.dec.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:11 EST 1997
Article: 183740 of rec.woodworking
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From: "M.W. Garrison" <garr==ison@tle.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: Reliant NN720 1HP Dust Collector
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:26:23 +0000
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
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In the Nashua, NH (greater Boston MA) area...

Reliant 1HP single stage dust collector, 650CFM, plus 5 micron high
density bag.

Purchased shortly before Christmas.  Used about 30 minutes.  Perfect
condition. 

Retails (with the high density bag) for $210.00

Yours for $175.00

Features:
	- mobile base, easy to move from machine to machine
	- quiet, especially compared to a shop-vac
	- wired for 110v, but can be wired for 220v.
	- great dust collection for planer, jointer, table saw etc.


If interested, e-mail me at garrison@tle.enet.dec.com

using the mail address from this post WILL NOT WORK.


From gerryholm@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:12 EST 1997
Article: 183741 of rec.woodworking
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From: gerryholm@mindspring.com (Gerry Holm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bit height problem with FT2000 table mount
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:44:19 GMT
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John N Scheffel <john_scheffel@sj.hp.com> wrote:

>Alan wrote:
>> 
>> Second... ANY (as far as I know) router once mounted on ANY surface
>> will lose the depth used by the surface.  I don't know of a router
>> who's chuck will stick out farther than its base.  (It's hard to be
>> sure I know so little)
>> 
>
>I don't know of any plunge routers which can extend the collet
>below the standard base plate, but some of the Porter Cable
>"non-plunge" models will extend the bottom of the chuck about
>1/4 inch below the base.  Two that I have checked for myself 
>are the 690 (1.5 HP) and 7518 (3.5 HP 5 speed).  This makes 
>them good choices for router table mounting.  There may be 
>other non-plunge routers that can do this as well.
>
>John Scheffel

I was doing some hands-on research for my next router purchase and
found the Hitachi M12V can extend it's collet beyond the base easily.

I believe Tool Crib is currently selling this router for about $200.


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:12 EST 1997
Article: 183742 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plunge Routers
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:35:55 GMT
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Bernie Swanson writes:
> Bennett is right here. This is one time I think manufacturers should give
> us, the consumers, the shaft. I am talking about longer shafts on router
> bits....
> Listen up router bit manufacturers, right now and here - either announce
> your gonna give us 1/4" in. longer shafts, or state why you will not!

Bernie's wrong about me being right. Oh, I was right, but about wanting
routers capable of plunging the collet below the base - not about demanding
longer router bit shanks 


> One needs to be sure they chuck enough shaft on a panel raising bit, else
> it's shrapnel city.

One also needs to be sure there's not too much exposed shank on a panel
raising bit, due to increased shaft flex, which can also affect safety,
as well as cut quality.

Bottom line is that router bit shank length is a compromise.

The better solution, as I've said, is to have a router that can lower its
collet below its subbase.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From kgloff@frontiercorp.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:13 EST 1997
Article: 183743 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kevin A. Gloff" <kgloff@frontiercorp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hocky Stick
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:33:30 -0500
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The first thing I would do is go to a store and take a look at one. I
would say that the two most complicated pieces of a hockey stick would
be the handle/blade joint and the curve of the blade. Actually, they
used to make straight bladed hockey sticks, you just don't see many
anymore.


Bill Moore wrote:
> 
> My neighbor's 12 year old boy seems interested in woodworking,
> so I foolishly suggested he think of something he's like to
> build. Oh well, I guess I started that way too! Anyway, he wants
> to build an ice hockey stick. This brings up some interesting
> questions:
> 1. What kind of wood is typically used? Is it the same kind of
>    wood for the handle and the blade? (Hope I've got these terms OK).
> 2. I assume there are some standards out there, as to length, weight,
>    etc. These may not be too important to a 12 year old, but if we
>    can build it right, so much the better.
> 3. If the handle and blade are typically made from two different pieces
>    of wood, what is the recommended joint? First impulse is to make it a
>    mitered bridle joint.
> 4. What kind of wear strip is typically used on the bottom of the blade?
> 5. Most important: can anyone point me to some plans!?
> 
> I'd sure like to get this kid interested in woodworking. He seems like
> a great kid, and we need some new blood in this hobby!
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> - Bill Moore                 208.773.1317      -
> - 3675 W. Hollister Dr.      208.773.6685 FAX  -
> - Post Falls, idaho  83854   bmoore@micron.net -
> ------------------------------------------------


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:14 EST 1997
Article: 183744 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:48:07 GMT
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"Randolph M. Jones" <rjones@eecs.umich.edu> writes
> I assumed they were all the same power, since they were all about the same
> price.  I was surprised to find out differently.

Well, there's more to a router than brute HP. As for price, the Bosch
comes with two collets and a built-in microadjuster, and the DeWalt's got 
a nifty dust collection hook-up.


> Why are all the "good" 3HP routers around $280-$300 but the Freud only 
> around $200?

Freud's not alone: Ryobi's 3 HP plunger is in the $200 ballpark.


> If I'm going to want 3HP someday, is there some reason I shouldn't buy the
> Freud instead of paying more for the higher horsepower DeWalt and Bosch
> routers?

Until you need 3HP, you'll be lugging around extra weight. For handheld
use, it makes the router harder to move around. If you don't panel
raise, or don't even use the thing in a table, 3 HP is overkill.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From skip@applogic.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:15 EST 1997
Article: 183745 of rec.woodworking
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From: Skip <skip@applogic.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: fancy dovetail jigs
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:57:26 -0500
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I saw a demo of the JoinTech system a few days ago and am looking for a
system that could make outlined dovetails, maybe box joints too, and was
easy enough to use for production. I saw the Leigh jig video too. It
seems to be production oriented, but can't do the fancy stuff. I'm
leaning towards the Incra Ultra to put on my Delta Router/Shaper. I've
got the old plastic Incra as the heart of a homemade plywood fence
system and it's sturdy, but not incrementally adjustable (easily).

Does anyone have an opinion on which to use? Comments on the Incra
Ultra? Anyone do more with the Leigh than the video shows?

I'm leaning towards the Incra, rather than the JoinTech, because it
seems to be easier to micro-adjust and be a little cheaper. How are
these systems on repeatability and production use (100 boxes at a run)?

TIA,
Skip


From pprocter@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:16 EST 1997
Article: 183746 of rec.woodworking
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From: pprocter@pipeline.com (Philip Procter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plastic to wood
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:11:50 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 45
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cmetruck@aol.com (CMETRUCK) wrote:

>question;
>               what is the best way to adhere plastic to wood, need help
>                                           
>                                          thanx


An epoxy.

You MUST clean the plastic well first though. I suggest a 220 grit
sandpaper to roughen the surface followed by a rub with solvent to
remove any surface waxes (these are added to the plastic to make it
release from the processing equipment). The solvent used will depend
on the plastic type (some solvents dissolve some plastics!). In most
cases alchol or mineral spirits are your best bets. Acetone is good
too but it's quite strong and flammable, while methylene chloride and
trichlor are an enviromental disaster area.  

TEST FIRST!! Test by rubbing a scrap piece of the plastic with a rag
wet with the solvent. If the plastic surface softens or seems to flow
the plastic is soluble. If only a superficial or mild effect, and
you're not going to see the inside of the joint anyway, it is OK to
use it anyway.

Make sure to mix the epoxy according to the ratio indicated and mix it
thoroughly. Spread a THIN but complete layer on both surfaces (if only
one is accesable, spread the epoxy on the plastic surface-it's the
tougher surface to bond to) and clamp for the full time indicated at
the proper temperature. Epoxies bond by chemical reaction between the
two parts, not solvent evaporation. Most publicly available epoxies
cure at room temperature (20-25C) fully in a day. Try to cure outside
in winter and they may take weeks (if at all- it's about -5C outside
today,  Brrrr!).

Good luck!

Philip

                                      

God first,
then your neighbors and yourself,
all else is commentary.



From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:17 EST 1997
Article: 183747 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:38:38 -0900
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Termite wrote:
> 
> It changes up with my mood and level of energy.  My wife NEVER rags me
> about it. At least I'm home and see can interrupt me if she needs to. Of
> course she sees little of me when I'm in the shop.
> When the mood strikes it seems that it last for about 6 months at a
> strech. Durring that time I usually hit the shop (on avg.) 3 nights a
> week for about (avg) 3 hours. On the weekends MANY a day up to 12 hours.
> I'll get started about 7:30 in the AM and the next thing I know it's
> 8:00PM, I'm tired and wondering what happend, like WOW, I just came out
> of some deep trance or something.  I LOVE IT - I just get totally
> consumed and know nothing of the world but what's happening in my shop.
> 
> You need two lists of projects. One for your wife and one for you. Ask
> her to set priorities on the things that she wants and mix them in with
> the things that you want to make. I'm lucky in that my wife and I have
> many items in common that we desire to have made. We have somewhat of a
> different priority list but she understands that I must also derive a
> great deal of pleasure from my projects - or why else would I do them.
> This is just a release and a great pleasure, not a JOB (LUCKY ME !!!)

Use to hide out in the shop - get away from it all.  But then my wife 
wanted me to build five mahogony bookcases for her son in law.  OK says 
I but you have to help.  Much to my surprise she said OK.  She actually 
enjoyed it and once she found out that those beastly, loud, sharp 
spinning blades really weren't going to bite her she started enjoying 
herself.  Now we are making display cases for her daughter.  My time has 
increased substantially and its fun having her working with me although 
I tend to be a perfectionist and I know I irritate her at time.  So to 
answer your question - eight hours a day on the weekend and a couple of 
hours in the evenings two or three times per week when we are working on 
something.  It's probably going to increase because we are retiring, 
moving, finishing up a new shop and then a house.  Lots to do.

rk


From EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:18 EST 1997
Article: 183748 of rec.woodworking
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From: EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I hate spam, but I love this one ...
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:22:06 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
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In <19970212141801.JAA20644@ladder01.news.aol.com>, hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) writes:
>Received an ad for tweezers via spam. Exquisitely polite. Targeted
>directly for woodworkers. Very soft-sell. Don't answer and he won't bother

I sent this fellow a note in reply also but didn't get this kind of reply
(none, actually - and my note was a nice thanks-but-no-thanks).

I'm thinking of living in that kind of country, snowed in, trying to make
a few bucks (how does he get to the post office?) on the side.

*sigh* I'm feeling like a soft touch today - think I'll send him mail asking
for an address.  God knows I get enough splinters (and always leave a
blood stain on every project - sort of a trademark of mine :) )

Wouldn't he get bug-eyed if he got dozens of other orders?  Am I a dupe
or what?  Don't ask how many girl scout cookies I buy a year.

- Mike

 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************
  Michael E. Thompson (MichaelT@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com)
                       T/L 678-0779  (512) 838-0779
                       IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************



From jonke@jagunet.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:19 EST 1997
Article: 183749 of rec.woodworking
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From: jonke@jagunet.com (Edward & Grace Jonke)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Leigh D3 vs D4
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:23:03 -0500
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In article <32FF9175.46A5@cris.com>, ncovey@cris.com wrote:

> I have just received an order from Trend-Lines on a Leigh 24" Dovetail
> Jig. I had expected a D4 but received a D3. What is the difference in
> the D3 and D4. I know the D4 is about the same money (339.00), should I
> send it back. 
> 
> BTW, when I opened the box, part rained out every where. Someone else
> had the got it before I got it and just dumped everything back in. I'm
> nor real happy with Trend-Lines right now.
> 
> Anyway, if you can help with the D3 vs D4 question I would appreciate
> it.
>

  Norm - I have Leigh's latest catalog and all they show mainly is the D4
so that must be the current model. You can do half blind dovetails, etc.

  IMHO Trendlines has done just what you suspected and I'd return it
period.BTW I don't particularly like that outfit. Some time ago I told
them  to stop sending me their catalog and they finally did! I'd call them
first and get a return authorization so you don't have to pay the return
shipping.

  Could you do me a favor? After you get the D4(somewhere else) I'd
appreciate your comments because I'm thinking of getting one myself later
on. Thanks,''  
 
  Ed Jonke   jonke@jagunet.com


From wkelley@wwnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:20 EST 1997
Article: 183750 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Kelley <wkelley@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: back woodsmith issue
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 23:02:11 -0500
Organization: WWNET
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jerry cousins wrote:
> 
> A friend gave me a xeroxed copy of an article from the Woodsmith Magazine, No.
> 108 - plans for building a mantel clock. However, the last page of the article
> (should be page 33) was not attached and that issue is no longer around. On
> that page might be the supplier's name & address for the clock face & hands -
> am wondering if anyone might look that up for me and e-mail the info.
> many thanks
> jerry cousins


Jerry:

Page 32 was the last page of the article on the clock. Page 33 is an
article on types of maple wood.

Bill Kelley


From wallace@titan.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:21 EST 1997
Article: 183751 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:02:10 -0800
Organization: Titan Information Systems Corporation
Lines: 109
Message-ID: <33022FD2.7AD3@titan.com>
References: <32fffd1e.100923410@netnews.worldnet.att.net> <5dr24p$sat@dfw-ixnews12.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183751

Stev wrote:
> 
> >Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
> >tools as I had.

So buy more tools!  ;^>

But seriously, there is only one tool in his shop that I think is rediculous
tooling for a serious hobbyist...not gonna say what it is, but it has 
a 3" blade.  ;^>  Even my buddies who are pros think that's a silly tool.
But what else is in his shop that is a goofy tool?  Table Saw?  Drill press?
Planer?  Jointer?  Powah mitah saw?  What?  granted, you may not need a
Unisaw, 16" DP, 15" planer, 8" jointer, and laser guided chop saw...a lower
end tool would prolly suit you fine.  But they are all useful tools...and
some of the folks (who are serious hobyists) here have every single one of 
them.  *I* don't, but I bet there are at least three well know names here 
that have all of these tools.  (and there's at least one of us who thinks
that the only tools that should be plugged into the wall are a bandsaw and 
a Skill 77 circular saw... ;^> )

It's just different levels of woodworking.  Not worse, not better, just 
different.

> >When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
> >tools to build things with.

And he has just evolved a little.  He has shown you a gazillion ways to
cut a stopped dado.  he now just uses the easiest way that he has.  He
has shown you a gazillion ways to cut mortises.  He now just uses the
easiest way that he has.  That's how I look at it, anyhow.

> [snipped]
> 
> >Norm.... don't get so tool happy you forget the Tricks o' the
> >Trade.... those are what us commoners watch to see....

I'm not sure of that.  There may be a large segment of the population
that watches just to see Norm use his new fancy tool (sort of a NYWS
drinking game crowd), but I don't really know.  You may not be part
of that crowd, so your POV may be out of phase from the average
person (*I* for one *hope* that my POV is not aligned with the average
fella...I've met the average fella...*wow*!)

> >give us a tip on
> >making the tools we HAVE work better for us.....

Like I said above, he *has* done that.  You may have missed the show, but
he has shown many different ways to perform many operations.

> >Those antiques you copy, got built  without all the fancy gadgets and
> >dedicated this and that... I'm not saying go back to the WoodWright
> >days....

Yes, you are.  that *exactly* what I was thinking as I read this...all those
antiques were built with blah...that's what Roy's show is for. (entertaining
as all get out, BTW).

> >but be a tradesman .... not a tradeshow....

Oh, I suspect he is one heckuva good *carpenter*. There are fellas (and gals)
here that are better furniture builders, cabinet makers, carvers, turners,
etc than he is...but that doesn't mean he's not a tradesman.  And he's 
getting better as the years go by.  He recently has been acknowledging that
wood moves, for example.

> >I miss you Norm.... I LOVE your old shows....
> >
> >Just my thoughts....
> >
> >Alan
> 
> You are right. I actually watched this show the other day. I learned
> some. If I ever buy some of the tools he was using, I could apply
> what I learned.

Or you could apply what you learned to tools that you *do* own, I suppose.
Just a thought.  When I am faced with a task that would be easier with
a tool that I don't own, sometimes I buy the tool, and sometimes I do it
a different way, with the tools that I *do* own (or could borrow)...depends
on the value of the tool and several other parameters.  But I don't just
pout that I don't have a 3" resaw (dang!... I said I wasn't gonna say what
it was...)

Different folks have different financial resources and different priorities.
To some folks, Norm's shop is completely filled with worthless, silly tools.
To others, however, it is spartan, and don't see how he can get along without
the blurfl that he *doesn't* have!  Different POV, different ways of doing the
job at hand, different priorities.  And to that I only say "Vive le differance!"


And now for something completely different...

> Spammers READ:
> Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
> to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
> you have to offer.

Spammers suck.  What is is with this crap lately?  Is it the AOL
mentality and the fact that everybody has internet access?  Not
that I'm trying to be elitist, but this crapola is getting really
annoying...I second your comment.  I am not interested in your web
page, your dating service, your garlic breath pills, your tweezers,
your get rich quick scheme, or anything else you fill my virtual
mail box with.

Later.
Steve. (kerfer on IRC)
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:22 EST 1997
Article: 183752 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:50:57 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
Lines: 68
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183752

StanR wrote:



> 
> I have the ELU equivalent of the 625 router. I mount it in a table on a
> 3/8 inch polycarbonate base. It is a quite good router, my only
> complaint being the router should bottom a bit more, as the 3/8 inch
> plate reduces this. The problem occurs when using the 1/4 inch collet,
> many 1/4 inch bits have short shafts. Most of the larger plunge routers
> seem to have this problem as I saw in a parellel thread.
> 
> I bought a long fine adjust knob and find it helps under the table, that
> slipnut is hard to grab sometimes. The first, cheap knob I bought wasn't
> very good, but the more expensive one from DeWalt turned more freely and
> is the better knob.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, this is true. The knob I have is about ten inches long and extends
> over the head of the router. Much easier to use in the table. I could
> probably remove the springs or replace them with softer springs in the
> table, but havn't done this.
> 
> All-in-all, a good router. Good hand router also, but 3 HP is a big
> router. I would have preferred a 2 HP version, but that was discontinued
> a while ago when I bought the Elu.
> 
> Stan
> 

Stan,
Thanks for the insight.
I know some of you will be bored with this, and already know, but for
thos like me here it is.
There just is NO WAY the 621 works in a table like the ELU, F2000E,
DW625. All of these routers have a second threaded rod that is afixed to
the motor housing AND the top of the base plate. When you unlock the
pluger you are then able to adjust the motor position on the plunge rods
by turnning this threaded rod. THIS IS NOT the rod that is used to zero
out the router at the bottom of the plunge. That rod is only used to
control how far down the router will go when you plunge.
The DW621 DOES NOT have this other threaded rod that connects the motor
housing to the base plate. Without this there is no way (other than
plunge) to adjust the motor position on the plunge rods.
I called Eagle American today, they are offering a 'Height Adjuster
Knob' for the DW 621. I called their technical support line
(216-286-7429) to discuss the function of the knob. The technician told
me that it simply goes on top of the cailper adjust knob and that once
the router depth is set you keep it plunged down and put it in the
table.
So - I called Dewalt. They confirmed that the DW625 does in fact have an
adjuster for setting the router bit depth of cut when the router is in
the table (you leave the plunger unlocked, and the depth gauge moved up
all the way) and that the DW 621 does not have this feature. I suggested
that I'd head that DeWalt was comming out with a feature or after market
modification for the DW621 to provide that function. 'NEVER HEAD THAT'
was the technicians reply.

SAD TO SAY, I'll be putting my new DW621 back in the box and sending it
back to Tool Crib. Hate to be out shipping cost and no router - I guess
I'll wait 4 to 6 months and see who brings the goodies to market.

I need that DW621 (like a junkie, gotta have it !!) but it has to work
above and below the table. I just can't afford to spend the money that's
required to have a 2HP above and 3HP below. And I've used a friends
F2000E, it's heavy and requires a lot to plunge and much larger than
what I'd like to have for above the table work.


From root@carib-link.net Sat Feb 15 11:44:22 EST 1997
Article: 183753 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsgate.cuhk.edu.hk!hammer.uoregon.edu!users.carib-link.net!not-for-mail
From: "root@carib-link.net" <root@carib-link.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears Craftsman Warrantee
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:46:10 -0500
Organization: Carib-Link
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Hi,

I live in Trinidad in the Caribbean.
I have been seeing all these posts about people returning
their Craftsman routers in exchange for an improved model.

I purchased one of the faulty ones sometime last year.
Does this mean that I can carry it with me the next time I
travel to the US and simply walk into a Sears and ask for
exchange ?

I haven't been able to find my bill.

Thanks much

Lennard


From Bruce_Taylor@iris.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:23 EST 1997
Article: 183754 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Taylor <Bruce_Taylor@iris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:53:38 -0500
Organization: Lotus Development Corporation
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Ed Ladendorf wrote:
>
> Hi Gang
>
> Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
do I
> do it without getting hurt?
>
> Thanks
> Ed

Umm - how about a handsaw? Seriously...
                                            Bruce

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<HTML><BODY>

<DT>Ed Ladendorf wrote:<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; Hi Gang<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
do I<BR>
&gt; do it without getting hurt?<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; Thanks<BR>
&gt; Ed<BR>
<BR></DT>

<DT>Umm - how about a handsaw? Seriously...</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Bruce&nbsp;</DT>

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From doug@yamm.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:44:24 EST 1997
Article: 183755 of rec.woodworking
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From: Douglas Fisher <doug@yamm.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oak for table legs
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 20:32:54 +0000
Organization: Cuckoo
Distribution: world
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In article <19970207170201.MAA00695@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
ggkinzer@aol.com writes
>Hi,
>We are in north central IL and my husband is unable to find 4x4 inch oak
>sticks to turn some legs for a table.  Found this newsgroup and wondered
>if anyone has any ideas about finding what we need.  Please send e-mail
>to: [ggkinzer@aol.com].
>
>Thank you very much,  Gilda Kinzer

Gilda,

Being in the UK I'm sorry I can't help with your question but I love
your use of the word 'sticks'
-- 
Douglas Fisher


From tacopela@cisnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:25 EST 1997
Article: 183756 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.ysu.edu!news
From: Bozo the Clown <tacopela@cisnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: trial
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:56:56 -0800
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Please excuse this intrusion.  I am just learning.


From wenzel@cc0112.pd9.ford.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:26 EST 1997
Article: 183757 of rec.woodworking
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From: wenzel@cc0112.pd9.ford.com (Donald T. Wenzel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How do I season black walnut?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 21:12:27 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183757

I just had a Black Walnut tree removed, and found someone to rough saw
the main trunk into planks for me.

I know I need to set it aside to dry for awhile (about a year?) before
I can use it and I'd appreciate any tips people might have.

I have a garage and basement available for storage.  The house has both
a humidifier and dehumidifier so I have some rough control over humidity.

Thanks in advance.  I'm looking forward to drooling over several hundred
board feet of black walnut when it arrives in a week or two.

Don


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:27 EST 1997
Article: 183759 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!rill.news.pipex.net!pipex!uunet!in3.uu.net!129.35.248.10!ausnews.austin.ibm.com!rtpnews.raleigh.ibm.com!news@rtpnews.raleigh.ibm.com
From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plastic to wood
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:31:33 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183759

CMETRUCK wrote:
> 
> question;
>                what is the best way to adhere plastic to wood, need help
> 
>                                           thanx
Chuck,
Try gorillia glue or one of the new poloyurthene (sic) glues. They are
advertised as bonding anything to anything. I been using these on wood
projects that are exposed to heay abuse with good success. I don't know
how well they'll work on plastic, but I've never really liked epoxies.
Not that they don't work but they're kinda a pain.


From gboggs@uswest.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:28 EST 1997
Article: 183760 of rec.woodworking
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From: gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:09:21 GMT
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> 
> >haubert@mbi.org wrote:
>  
> >> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
> >> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
> >> less fancy tools.

[...]

Two-bit cable channel? Maybe you're right. And maybe the reason they're
two-bit is because they aren't whining at me several times a year like some
Mercedes-deprived televangelist trying to pry fifty bucks out of my credit
card for a cheesy - sorry, I meant *fabulous* - coffee mug. And, lawdy
sakes, they don't send me a bunch of junk mail. I really miss that. I wish
all the stations sent out junk solicitations. I guess you get what you pay
for, eh? 


G. Boggs             
gboggs@uswest.com       Posterity -- you will never know how much it has 
                        cost my generation to preserve your freedom.  
                        I hope you will make good use of it.
                                                     John Quincy Adams


From plathrop@netins.net Sat Feb 15 11:44:29 EST 1997
Article: 183761 of rec.woodworking
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From: "plathrop" <plathrop@netins.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clean miter cuts
Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:34:51 GMT
Organization: netINS, Inc.
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Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com> wrote in article
<32FBFA5C.443B@mosquitonet.com>...
> Paul wrote:
> > 
> > I have the Lion Miter Trimmer.  It is solidly made, reliable and cuts
as
> > smooth as glass.  So far, it is the best thing I've come across for
> > making picture frames.
> > 
> > Dave DeFily wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I'm looking for advice.  I'd like to buy a saw for cutting clean
miter
> > > joints.  My immediate need is to cut moldings for picture frames, but
will
> > > likely find many other uses.  Initially, I was was prepared to by a
miter
> > > trimmer.  I could make "adequate" cuts, then trim them clean with the
> > > trimmer.  Then I started looking at hand miter saws such as the
NOBEX.
> > > This might be all I need, no need to make a cut AND a trim.  After
> > > thinking about it, I realized I could get a moderately priced power
miter
> > > saw and a good blade for not much more money.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts?  Has anybody used a miter trimmer (Woodcraft or Lion)
or the
> > > NOBEX miter saw?  Any suggestions will be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Dave

I bought a Nobex miter saw 3 years ago ( the bigger one of course) still
using the original blade.  In the last 9 monthes I started to use a makita
10" sliding compound miter saw (I started to work in finishing carpentry) .
 Both give supperior cuts (no need to trim).
I often have to carry the saw into a house so:
I use the  power miter saw if I have a lot to cut,  if I have just a couple
to cut I used the Nobex.  One definate advantage with a power miter saw, 
If you have to shave a small amount off it is very easy to do.  With a hand
miter saw get the sandpaper out.  

If you get a power miter saw make sure it has a dustbag.

Paul Lathrop
 


From spost@NETUSA1.NET Sat Feb 15 11:44:30 EST 1997
Article: 183762 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!NETUSA1.NET!spost
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Scott Post <spost@NETUSA1.NET>
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
In-Reply-To: <32FBAE28.1EB8@flash.net> from "Michael R. Dow" at Feb 7,
              97 04:35:20 pm
Lines: 16
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183762

> Michael R. Dow wrote:
>
> Ok, so I'm a newbie (as you may have seen from other posts...)  Should I
> get the ShopNotes backissues for $80?

It depends on what you want to do.  I dropped my ShopNotes subscription
after the first year because the stuff they built bordered on the
ridiculous.  They seemed to go to extraordinary effort to come up with
unnecessary jigs and fixtures.  I like to build furniture - not jigs.

I prefer Woodsmith's approach.  They give plans for what are usually nice
looking pieces, then show how to build a jig or two that directly apply
to the project.

--
Scott Post   spost@netusa1.net
http://www.netusa1.net/~spost


From plathrop@netins.net Sat Feb 15 11:44:31 EST 1997
Article: 183763 of rec.woodworking
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From: "plathrop" <plathrop@netins.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:10:07 GMT
Organization: netINS, Inc.
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Alan P. Kefauver <apk2@home.com> wrote in article
<32ffd3aa.201586195@news>...
> I buy (bought) all my Dewalt tools from the B&D serviice center. Each
> has a sticker that says factory reconditioned. Saved a lot and have
> had no trouble.
> 3 sanders, an electric hand planer, 3 drills, 2 routers, 2 circular
> saws, and a jig saw.
> 
> 
> deaneg@aol.com (DeanEG) wrote:
> 
> >I have purchased both dewalt 12V drill and saw and each arrived without
> >narry a scratch or a cosmetic element suggesting previous exposure to
the
> >air much less any use. They have been perfect. I would recommend them
any
> >time. The warranty is the same and they are absolutely indistinguishable
> >from brand new.

I bought (reconditioned) a 12v saw and drill kit($219) but it got swiped
before I could use it.  2 monthes later I went back got a  14.4v saw and
drill kit($224 my brother and I think they put the wrong price on it at the
B&D service center, we think it was suppose to be $324). I use them almost
every day no problem.  Many drywall screws and the saw works great to.  I
even got my bose(father-in-law) to buy the same drill(reconditioned).  I
want to get another one but the B&D service centers will no longer sell the
reconditioned Dewalt tools.  They are selling them to Habor freight and
NorthernH. 

Paul
 


From paparonjo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:32 EST 1997
Article: 183764 of rec.woodworking
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From: paparonjo@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handyclub of America
Date: 12 Feb 1997 21:51:03 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
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In article <3300111F.4B356A0F@hndymn.zko.dec.com>, "Brian J. McCarthy" <mccarthy@hndymn.zko.dec.com> writes:

>Previous postings on this have gone down the line that "its a waste 
>of money".

I've wasted better money than on this "Club" - Reno, Las Vegas, Lotto etc.  And I like the hat!    
>
>Are they still offering 'free trial tools' or something like that?  If
>so, don't expect anything.

I have to admit that I have not received any, but I know one fellow that has, more than once.  Better odds than the lotto.

Ron  





From lawhitne@cc.ysu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:33 EST 1997
Article: 183765 of rec.woodworking
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From: L Anthony Whitney <lawhitne@cc.ysu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: staining oak endgrain
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:04:52 -0500
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I've turned several ball top finials for railing posts.  Now I want to
stain them.  How can I prevent the end grain from turning almost black?
Will staining over shellac do the job? TIA Tony.



From rswearin@mdp.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:34 EST 1997
Article: 183766 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:31:17 -0600
From: rswearin@mdp.com
Subject: ISO really old plans
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855785907.4354@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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I'm looking for authentic plans for an
18th or 19th century dining table and
chairs but all the plans I've seen seem
to be	 either "based on" or "adapted
from" something else....Is there a
source of plans based on measurements
>from  actual furniture in museums?

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From gtwysys@inlink.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:34 EST 1997
Article: 183767 of rec.woodworking
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From: gtwysys@inlink.com (Phil M.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Education help...
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:41:51 GMT
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Hi, new to this NG, obviously, and am here to ask...What avenues
should I investigate as to where to get educated in woodworking? I
have a college degree and haven't found much in the way of jobs out
there and have decided to learn a trade.  I want to start ASAP and
wanted to know how some of you got into the field...did you start out
asking someone if you could be his/her apprentice...did you go through
a Community College (is that a realistic avenue to follow?)...how
about the 'private' schools?  The  reason I ask this one specifically,
there is a relatively new 'school' outside the town where I live (St.
Charles, MO), I went there today to gather info, etc, and the price to
get a "Master Certificate" for a year's study is somewhere around 
$14, 400, which I thought a 'bit' steep.  Are there cheaper ways to
become a "Master Craftsman"?  HELP?!!?  Any and all help will be
GREATLY appreciated...Also, any of you looking for an 'apprentice' in
the St. Louis area, I would be very interested in finding out more
info...Thanks in advance...

Phil



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:35 EST 1997
Article: 183768 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plastic to wood
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:45:21 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Termite wrote:
snip 

OBTW - I should've told you that the gorillia glue is supposed to adhere
to all kinds of stuff. It's big claim is how well it bonds exotic (sic?)
woods. These woods have a lot of oils and stuff in them making them hard
to glue up - whites and yellows hold for some time but will let go after
a period.


From GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:37 EST 1997
Article: 183769 of rec.woodworking
From: "G.I." <GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler??
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183769

Just a note from the Home time page. Dean's newest leading lady is not his
wife. You can see the hometime home page at {http://www.hometime.com/} it
tells about his leading ladies.




From jlk@netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:38 EST 1997
Article: 183770 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: jlk@netcom.com (Gerald Koenig)
Subject: Barbed Box Hinges
Message-ID: <jlkE5IIDC.IzB@netcom.com>
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I am looking for barbed box hinges that insert into a kerf like the ones
supplied by the Woodworker's Store, but a tad larger. I feel the ones I
am using (1&7/8 X 7/8) are just a little too small for my application.
Also, does anyone know who manufactures this type of hinge?

Jerry



From g_stearns@fc.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:39 EST 1997
Article: 183771 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Gary Stearns" <g_stearns@fc.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:03:04 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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Just moved the fence to the left last night.  Was making raised panels.
Attached a 12" auxillary fence, set the blade at a slide angle, and had
nice raised panels on the table saw.  Of course it depends on which way
your blade tilts.  Most tilt to the right (hence fence on left for panel
raising).  Powermatic 66 tilts to left so fence stays on right.

-- 
Gary Stearns
g_stearns@fc.hp.com

John W. Shear <jshear@cray.com> wrote in article
<330088C3.167E@cray.com>...
> Having been a long time RAS user, I am considering the purchase of a
> Delta CS with either Bismeyer or Unifence.  One disadvantage of
> the Unifence appears to be that it's more cumbersone to move it to the
> left of the blade.
> Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
> explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
> the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
> side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.
> -- 
> John Shear		Cray Research, A Silicon Graphics Company
> jshear@cray.com		Chippewa Falls, WI
> 


From adkinsm@ridgecrest.ca.us Sat Feb 15 11:44:39 EST 1997
Article: 183772 of rec.woodworking
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From: adkinsm@ridgecrest.ca.us (Michael Adkins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oak for table legs
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:06:16 GMT
Organization: RidgeNET
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ggkinzer@aol.com wrote:

>Hi,
>We are in north central IL and my husband is unable to find 4x4 inch oak
>sticks to turn some legs for a table.  Found this newsgroup and wondered
>if anyone has any ideas about finding what we need.  Please send e-mail
>to: [ggkinzer@aol.com].
>
>Thank you very much,  Gilda Kinzer

My supplier says oak in thick sections is difficult to find and is
unsafe due some wierd thing going on in the wood where you can get
some soft parts.

The best I could do is laminate some 4/4 stock.  It works just fine
for me.  And looks good as well.

Michael
Michael Adkins
Ridgecrest, CA
adkinsm@ridgecrest.ca.us


From lightfoot@bikerider.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:40 EST 1997
Article: 183773 of rec.woodworking
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From: robert lightfoot <lightfoot@bikerider.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:44:14 -0600
Organization: ADC Telecommunications
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <330247BE.6715@bikerider.com>
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To: Bruce Taylor <Bruce_Taylor@iris.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183773

Bruce Taylor wrote:
> 
> Ed Ladendorf wrote:
> >
> > Hi Gang
> >
> > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
> do I
> > do it without getting hurt?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ed
> 
> Umm - how about a handsaw? Seriously...
>                                             Bruce

It is not hard nor dangerous to do this if you set up your
table saw correctly, and use the right attachments. 

I just did this last week to make some very small quarter round.

Here is how: (and I still have all 10 fingers to type about it.)

You simply need some feather boards, 2 of them.  Set one up to
hold the dowel down against the table top, set the other up to 
hold the dowel against the fence. Push it through with a scrap 
piece of dowl and have a helper pull the last few inches through.

The feather boards will keep it alinged and prevent kickback.

robert


From doug@yamm.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:44:41 EST 1997
Article: 183774 of rec.woodworking
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From: Douglas Fisher <doug@yamm.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 21:34:45 +0000
Organization: Cuckoo
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <zLtFcCA1XOAzEwzm@yamm.demon.co.uk>
References: <32FED169.6D54@technix.com.au> <33006B69.4324@3mail.3com.com>
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>Andrew Tune wrote:
>> 
>> Hi!
>> 
>> I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
>> the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.
>> 
>> Can anyone point to a reputable British firm that provides a mail-order
>> service for woodworking tools (and possibly hardware)?  Preferably
>> (though not essentially) on the Internet...
>> 
>> Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
>> intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be
>> cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
>> compare.
>> 
>> Andrew.
>> --
>> Andrew Tune                                     Technix Consulting Group
>> Andrew.Tune@technix.com.au                         Level 5, 695 Burke Rd
>> Phone: +61 3 9882 2333                                  Camberwell, 3124
>> Fax:   +61 3 9882 4799                    URL: http://www.technix.com.au
>>               "What if there were no hypothetical situations?"
In addition to Kevin's post:-

Axminster's email was in Dec96:- Axminster@msn.com
------------
Isaac Lord      http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/mlord
------------
Kendal Tools & Machinery
Unit 10,
Lake District Business Park
Kendal
Cumbria
LA9 6NH
Tel: 01539 733774
Fax: 01539 740634
-----------
Tools by Post
Tel: 01279 418333
Fax: 01279 418339
-----------

Surely there must be more ?

-- 
Douglas Fisher
Cumbria


From ncovey@cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:42 EST 1997
Article: 183775 of rec.woodworking
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From: Norm Covey <ncovey@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Leigh D3 vs D4
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:28:26 -0600
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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To: Edward & Grace Jonke <jonke@jagunet.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183775

Edward & Grace Jonke wrote:
> 
> In article <32FF9175.46A5@cris.com>, ncovey@cris.com wrote:
> 
> > I have just received an order from Trend-Lines on a Leigh 24" Dovetail
> > Jig. I had expected a D4 but received a D3. What is the difference in
> > the D3 and D4. I know the D4 is about the same money (339.00), should I
> > send it back.
> >
> > BTW, when I opened the box, part rained out every where. Someone else
> > had the got it before I got it and just dumped everything back in. I'm
> > nor real happy with Trend-Lines right now.
> >
> > Anyway, if you can help with the D3 vs D4 question I would appreciate
> > it.
> >
> 
>   Norm - I have Leigh's latest catalog and all they show mainly is the D4
> so that must be the current model. You can do half blind dovetails, etc.
> 
>   IMHO Trendlines has done just what you suspected and I'd return it
> period.BTW I don't particularly like that outfit. Some time ago I told
> them  to stop sending me their catalog and they finally did! I'd call them
> first and get a return authorization so you don't have to pay the return
> shipping.
> 
>   Could you do me a favor? After you get the D4(somewhere else) I'd
> appreciate your comments because I'm thinking of getting one myself later
> on. Thanks,''
> 
>   Ed Jonke   jonke@jagunet.com

Ed, I called yesterday and they (T-L Customer Service) did a good job.
They have agreed to ship a D4 and pick-up the D3, no additional charge
to me. They apologized for the condition of the D3 packaging that I
received. They also told me that they were not supposed to have had any
D3's left. Oh well, we'll see if the stand behind what the said
yesterday. They've always provided good service to me.

I'll let you know on the D4 when I get it and use it a few times.

Thanks for your response.
-- 
Norm Covey
ncovey@cris.com
Houston, TX


From spc@rideau.net Sat Feb 15 11:44:43 EST 1997
Article: 183776 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steven Cavanaugh <spc@rideau.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:22:57 GMT
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> > Hi Gang
> >
> > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
>> do I do it without getting hurt?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ed

Why not use a band saw.  Set two rip fences, each 3/8 inch from the blade.
Set the height adjustment to less then 1/8 inch above the dowel and run it through.


From ajbcab@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:44 EST 1997
Article: 183777 of rec.woodworking
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From: ajbcab@aol.com (AJBCAB)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Millers Falls #36 Plane
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:41:49 GMT
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I have a Millers Falls #36 which is about 40 to 45 years old. However, it
is missing the blade and I realize MF is long out of business. I am trying
to find blade close enough in size to fit it. Does anyone have any
suggestions, who to call, size of blade, etc?


From cowgirljan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:45 EST 1997
Article: 183778 of rec.woodworking
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From: cowgirljan@aol.com (Cowgirljan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS - 2hp Woodtek shaper
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:44:34 GMT
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I'm posting this for a coworker who doesn't have usenet access.

Several years ago, her father purchased a Woodtek two horsepower
heavy duty shaper for $975.00.  He planned to use it after he retired.
Unfortunately, he passed away several weeks after retirement.
He never even uncrated the shaper.  They believe that it was 
purchased 5 years ago.

His widow would like to sell the shaper for $800.00 plus shipping/freight
charges (the box weighs over 300 pounds).  It is located in Yardley, PA.

If you are interested in the item, please email me with your name and
phone number and I will pass it on to my coworker.  

Janet V.

Here's a description of the shaper from a recent woodworking catalog:

"A tremendously versatile heavy-duty shaper with two speeds (7,000
and 11,000 RPM) and reverse.  The 19-3/4" x 19-3/4" precision ground
cast-iron table has a mitre gauge slot.  Two spindles are included (1/2"
and 3/4") along with a router bit collet that lets you run 1/2" shank
router bits.  There is 2-1/2" of vertical travel.  Overall weight of 360
pounds
helps add stability.  Table height is 33-1/2".  Made in Taiwan to strict
tolerances to assure high quality and top performance.  Motor is two
horsepower, 220V, single phase.  Magnetic starter."




From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:46 EST 1997
Article: 183779 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: how to square a try square
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:42:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC1914.85FB23C0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Eric,
I have heard that you can adjust squares by beating the tongue at the
joint. To make the angle more acute, beat the outside of the ell. To widen
the angle, beat the inside. The area you beat (with a ball peen hammer)
should be triangular, with the larger part of its area toward the
appropriate edge for the desired adjustment.  I've never tried this
technique, but it should work in theory. You are deforming the metal
slightly so as to make one side kind of "longer" than the other, until the
error is corrected. On the physics side of things, you should let the
square cool before trying its accuracy, to get a true reading. Beating will
also heat the metal, giving a false result. Alternately, you could have a
machine shop grind or mill it true, to a precision you specify.
Casey



P. Eric Chi <echi@cisco.com> wrote in article
<5dtc19$rk5@cronkite.cisco.com>...
> I have a Stanley try square ( with metal handle) which I got from a local

> hardware store quite a while back. I found it is NOT square. Is there
anyway I 
> can fix it?
> (BTW, it is too late to return it.)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Eric.
>  
> 
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1914.85FB23C0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFBF0"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Palisade"><b>Eric,<br>I have heard that you =
can adjust squares by beating the tongue at the joint. To make the angle =
more acute, beat the outside of the ell. To widen the angle, beat the =
inside. The area you beat (with a ball peen hammer) should be =
triangular, with the larger part of its area toward the appropriate edge =
for the desired adjustment. &nbsp;I've never tried this technique, but =
it should work in theory. You are deforming the metal slightly so as to =
make one side kind of &quot;longer&quot; than the other, until the error =
is corrected. On the physics side of things, you should let the square =
cool before trying its accuracy, to get a true reading. Beating will =
also heat the metal, giving a false result. Alternately, you could have =
a machine shop grind or mill it true, to a precision you =
specify.<br>Casey<br><br><br><br>P. Eric Chi &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>echi@cisco.com</u><font color=3D"#000000">&gt; =
wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>5dtc19$rk5@cronkite.cisco.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; I have a Stanley try square ( with =
metal handle) which I got from a local <br>&gt; hardware store quite a =
while back. I found it is NOT square. Is there anyway I <br>&gt; can fix =
it?<br>&gt; (BTW, it is too late to return it.)<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
Thanks,<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Eric.<br>&gt; &nbsp;<br>&gt; </p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BC1914.85FB23C0--



From richard@wdi.disney.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:47 EST 1997
Article: 183780 of rec.woodworking
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From: Richard Edwards <richard@wdi.disney.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:31:40 -0800
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Termite wrote:
> 
> Ed Ladendorf wrote:
> >
> > Hi Gang
> >
> > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I do it without getting hurt?
> 
> I doubt it !!
> 
> > Thanks
> > Ed
> 
> ED,
> MAN - this scares the f outa me just thinking about it!.
> My suggestion would be to find another way to acomplish what you're
> looking for. DON'T EVEN TRY IT  - Surely it can't be worht the risk?

Maybe you could sand it away?


From plathrop@netins.net Sat Feb 15 11:44:47 EST 1997
Article: 183781 of rec.woodworking
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From: "plathrop" <plathrop@netins.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:58:03 GMT
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Oh just quit wining,  If someone gave or offered you one of those tools
would you turn them down,  what is interesting is to see what tools he will
 continue to use,  He has had the lazer miter saw for over 4 years now, I
think you cannot even get one now. 

Alan <Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<32fffd1e.100923410@netnews.worldnet.att.net>...
> Ya know  I used to like Norm... back in the days when he had the same
> tools as I had.
> 
> When he used to show us how to build cool things with tools, not cool
> tools to build things with.  
>snipe
> Just my thoughts....
> 
> Alan
> ********************************************
> Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
>   and he doesn't use a blade
>          guard either.
> 
> Alan Murphy
> Las Vegas, NV
> 
> ********************************************
> 


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:48 EST 1997
Article: 183782 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I season black walnut?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 23:45:55 GMT
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In article <WENZEL.97Feb12161227@cc0112.pd9.ford.com>, wenzel@cc0112.pd9.ford.com says...
>
>I just had a Black Walnut tree removed, and found someone to rough saw
>the main trunk into planks for me.
>
>I know I need to set it aside to dry for awhile (about a year?) before
>I can use it and I'd appreciate any tips people might have.
>
>I have a garage and basement available for storage.  The house has both
>a humidifier and dehumidifier so I have some rough control over humidity.
>
>Thanks in advance.  I'm looking forward to drooling over several hundred
>board feet of black walnut when it arrives in a week or two.
>
>Don

About a year of seasoning is a good start.  It could take somewhat longer,
depending upon a number of factors, but almost certainly not less.

I often see conflicting advice, but most people air drying lumber seem to
feel that the best situation is to stack and sticker the boards in a sheltered
area outdoors... someplace where free air circulation is guaranteed, and yet
the pile won't become soaked by rain or overdried by the sun.  Air circulation
is necessary to prevent mold and mildew, and you want the boards to cure
slowly and gradually to help minimize warpage.  There seems to be a
concensus that any heated environment should be avoided.  A garage would
probably be preferable to a basement if those are the only choices.

I heard a recommendation, I think from Nakashima, many years ago, that the
best way to cure and store thick slabs was to stand them on end.  I couldn't
come up with a good rationalization for this, but I tried it with some slabs of
red elm and walnut, and for whatever reason, it did make a big difference.
Very little warping, and practically no checks, even at the ends of the slabs...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From pjrose@servtech.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:49 EST 1997
Article: 183783 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Got my JET Bandsaw, Wheel Alingment ?????
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:06:44 -0400
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In article <3301F789.D1E@qgraph.com>, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:

> I got my 14" Jet bandsaw last might.  I did not purchase the book on
> bandsaws because I found I have an article in an old WOOD magazine on
> alignment, so I am following that.
> 
> To my suprise I found the wheels were not coplaner.  In tilting the
> upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not touch the straight
> edge.  Per the article I placed a washer behind the rear wheel to bring
> it out a bit and then I was able to align everything.
> 
> Is this normal to have to do this to a new saw?  The article leads me to
> believe as long as it needs < 1/4" shim it's ok??  Any experiences with
> this?? 

Damian,
It's not entirely clear from your post what you did to test for wheel
coplanarity. 

You said "In tilting the upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not
touch the straight edge."

When I do the test, I hold a straight edge across the lower wheel and
adjust (if needed) the upper wheel's tilt so that the SE also hits the
upper wheel's bottom (face) edge. Then, I leave the upper wheel at that
tilt setting and slide the SE up to determine if it simultaneously contacts
the top/bottom (face) of the upper wheel as well as the top of the lower
wheel. If so, the wheels are coplanar. [Naturally, this situation will only
hold true at a single, unique position of the tilt adjustment.]

Anyway, my Jet 14" bandsaw had coplanar wheels right out of the box. I
don't recall anyone recently reporting a need to shim the wheel on new Jet
bandsaws. But it's bound to happen sometime.

As an aside, when I did my initial check on wheel planarity a couple of
years ago, I determined that a 1/8" washer was needed. I did the
installation, and then found out the shim had to be removed because I had
done the check incorrectly. :-(

-- 
Phil Rose


From janh@labjrh.lsid.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:51 EST 1997
Article: 183784 of rec.woodworking
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From: janh@labjrh.lsid.hp.com (Jan Hofland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:22:21 GMT
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re: ripping dowels

The way I've done it is to first cut a V groove in a scrap 1x4 or similar.
Then glue the dowel into the groove at its ends with hot melt glue.  Then
set the table saw rip fence to the center of the dowel and cut.  Still takes
some care but doesn't rely on the dangerous prospect of trying to hold the
dowel centered and rotationally stable.  You might lose a couple of inches
of the dowel at either end.  Quite often, however, you can just pry the
glued joint loose.

Regards,
Jan Hofland


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:52 EST 1997
Article: 183785 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Got my JET Bandsaw, Wheel Alingment ?????
Message-ID: <33024109.7BBF@qgraph.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:15:37 -0600
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Phil Rose wrote:
> 
> In article <3301F789.D1E@qgraph.com>, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:
> 
> > I got my 14" Jet bandsaw last might.  I did not purchase the book on
> > bandsaws because I found I have an article in an old WOOD magazine on
> > alignment, so I am following that.
> >
> > To my suprise I found the wheels were not coplaner.  In tilting the
> > upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not touch the straight
> > edge.  Per the article I placed a washer behind the rear wheel to bring
> > it out a bit and then I was able to align everything.
> >
> > Is this normal to have to do this to a new saw?  The article leads me to
> > believe as long as it needs < 1/4" shim it's ok??  Any experiences with
> > this??
> 
> Damian,
> It's not entirely clear from your post what you did to test for wheel
> coplanarity.
> 
> You said "In tilting the upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not
> touch the straight edge."
> 
> When I do the test, I hold a straight edge across the lower wheel and
> adjust (if needed) the upper wheel's tilt so that the SE also hits the
> upper wheel's bottom (face) edge. Then, I leave the upper wheel at that
> tilt setting and slide the SE up to determine if it simultaneously contacts
> the top/bottom (face) of the upper wheel as well as the top of the lower
> wheel. If so, the wheels are coplanar. [Naturally, this situation will only
> hold true at a single, unique position of the tilt adjustment.]
> 
> Anyway, my Jet 14" bandsaw had coplanar wheels right out of the box. I
> don't recall anyone recently reporting a need to shim the wheel on new Jet
> bandsaws. But it's bound to happen sometime.
> 
> As an aside, when I did my initial check on wheel planarity a couple of
> years ago, I determined that a 1/8" washer was needed. I did the
> installation, and then found out the shim had to be removed because I had
> done the check incorrectly. :-(
> 
> --
> Phil Rose

Very interesting feedback.  What I did was lay the SE across both wheels
at the same time, tilted the upper so both t/b made contact.  the lower
wheel only had bottom contact.  Thats why I shimmed.  If I read your
post right, I did not come close.  To review what you said:

Lay the SE on bottom wheel and make both t/b contact and then move it to
the upper wheel and adjust tilt.  I will do this tonight and see if 
works and let you know.  

Thanks
Damian



From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:52 EST 1997
Article: 183786 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:19:31 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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Verne H. Bohlender writes
> I just lately removed mine as I was having so much difficulty with
> cutting the boxes I was working on. ...

Donald H. Littrell writes 
> Is that because flying chips have removed your eyesight?  To operate a
> power tool without using available protection is fool-hardy.

Duane Bartlett writes
> The last time I saw my blade guard was when I saw the
> saw in the place where I bought it.

Bill McCurdy writes
> To advocate the use of power tools without guards is irresponsible.


In a perfect world, Don and Bill would be right. But, this ain't no
perfect world, and no guard is perfect. Going without guards like Duane
and Verne are doing isn't so smart, IMHO, either.

The truth is that in our real world there is danger in everything. The
goal as I see it is to manage the risk knowledgably. How important are your 
fingers? If it's absolutely essential that you never cut them, then you 
should not engage in woodworking. If you don't mind losing a few, then run 
power tools without guards or push sticks since you'll work faster and 
easier (until your accident, at any rate).

Most of us are in the middle. We want to take precautions that are affordable
AND don't make woodworking much more difficult. Stock guards as they
come often do make woodworking more difficult. 

But, where price is important, tuning the guards and/or augmenting them 
with shopbuilt guards is worth it as much as tuning your miter gauge bar, 
aligning your rip fence, etc. If you don't think it's possible, check out
an old video tape "Small Shop Tips with Jim Cummins," where he uses the 
stock guard for many tablesaw cuts.

Others with more resources might want to look into the aftermarket guards. 
I've got an overarm guard on my saw that, combined with a rising splitter, 
makes most operations (including narrow angled rips, dadoes, etc.) safe 
enough for me. Many others feel this way, too.

The important thing is to decide where on the continuum from no guards
to no woodworking you lie, basing your decision on knowledge, not blind
"guards suck" or "you're stupid if you don't use guards" sayings.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From davidht@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:53 EST 1997
Article: 183787 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidht@pipeline.com (David H. Tasso)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: shaper cutters
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:41:34 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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I'm trying to find a stile and rail cutter to match an existing unit.
Most of my cutters are Freud or DML and they don't have what I need .
I'm using 1" true stock and I need a 3/8" bead on one side only.  Any
ideas for suppliers would be appreciated.



From mcclare@glinx.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:54 EST 1997
Article: 183788 of rec.woodworking
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From: The McClares <mcclare@glinx.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:countertop installation
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:29:17 -0400
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------------660B1D9F72270
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 Does anyone know what the preferred glue or sealant would be for
joining the mitered corner of a preformed countertop?The counter has a
particle board substrate with a moulded arborite top.the mitered corner
is joined by three bolts but it seems to me that some sort of glue
sealant should also be used.Am I correct or way of base?Any advice
appreciated,
                                Larry McClare
                               Black Rock,N.S.
                               mcclare@glinx.com

------------660B1D9F72270
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<HTML><BODY>

<DT>&nbsp;Does anyone know what the preferred glue or sealant would be
for joining the mitered corner of a preformed countertop?The counter has
a particle board substrate with a moulded arborite top.the mitered corner
is joined by three bolts but it seems to me that some sort of glue sealant
should also be used.Am I correct or way of base?Any advice appreciated,&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Larry McClare</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Black Rock,N.S.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
mcclare@glinx.com</DT>

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From fbmarq@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:55 EST 1997
Article: 183789 of rec.woodworking
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From: fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:44:46 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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>Jonathan Waterbury wrote:

>> I've wondered about this as well: What if one were to put a metal
cutting
>> blade on a slowed down a Delta 14" bandsaw? How would that work
compared
>> to a dedicated metal-cutting bandsaw? The friction cutting thing
appeals
>> to me not in the least.
>> 
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> Jonathan

>
>All you need to do is figure out how to get enough reduction with your
>pulleys to slow it down below 1000fpm. Then get yourself a metal
cutting
>blade and your in buisness.
>
>-- 
>Bill Pounds
>bpounds@ix.netcom.com

I agree with Bill.  To cut metal, or anything, you need to move the
correct blade through the table at the correct speed.  To do true
contour sawing in low carbon steel (1010 to 1030) you need to saw at a
speed that allows any individual tooth to cut a chip of metal. 
Generaly, this would be in the 150 fpm range for 1/4" and up, 200 to
250 down to 1/8", up to 350 fpm for 1/16", and 400 or so for 1/32".   
Normally, in the thickness examples given above, you would use a 10
tooth above 1/4, and then a 14 tooth, an 18, 24, and 32 tooth blade as
you reduce in thickness.  Whenever possible, choose a blade that allows
you to have AT LEAST 2 or 3 teeth within the material thickness as you
cut.  If this is not possible, increase the speed a little so that a
tooth does not catch on the edge of the metal.  

When cutting softer metals like aluminum and brass, you can almost go
to wood cutting speeds and blade pitch.  Except for the rule of thumb
to keep 2 or 3 teeth within the material.  Cut most stainless steels
the same as carbon steels, you'll just move slower.

One final word.  Make sure there is no tooth protuding at the weld. 
This can cause blade breakage in any material but in metal it can be
especially bad.  If that tooth breaks off and gets embedded in the
material you are cutting, you can wipe out the whole blade in seconds. 
The vast majority of contour sawing in metal is done dry.  Sometimes
some beeswax is helpful in gummy metal like soft aluminum to keep the
material from building up in the gullet.  Sorry I've been so long
winded.  Good luck.

Gerry Marquis
Elyria, Ohio   


From mustache@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:56 EST 1997
Article: 183790 of rec.woodworking
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From: mustache@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears TS?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:48:08 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net> wrote:


>>Craftsman power tools. Not quite sure what to do with them. They're not
>>fully dead, so I hate to throw them away. On the other hand, if my kids
>>ever piss me off enough I could always give them all to them.
>>
>
>Very close - relatives - I gave all my sears power tools to relatives. 
>More exactly, unhandy relatives. They think I am a great guy! cmr

Keep them for when the neighbors come to borrow tools!


From tcarney@wpo.sosc.osshe.edu Sat Feb 15 11:44:57 EST 1997
Article: 183791 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Todd F. Carney" <tcarney@wpo.sosc.osshe.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet Benchtop Planer
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:56:00 -0800
Organization: Southern Oregon State College
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Mark Hodges wrote:
> 
> My local dealer (who handles Jet and Delta) says that both of the new
> planers (from Delta and Jet) are coming from the same factory, and so far
> both are having quality control problems, so no release date.
> 

I once worked in a factory that made fans for two different brands.  We
had 
different standards of quality for each brand.  One was a "premium"
brand and 
the standards (fit, finish, and quality of materials) were much higher
than 
the other brand.  The standards we used, of course, were dictated by the
companies for 
whom we made the fans.  We had no standards and no designs of our own. 
We'd 
happily make junk fans or just as happily make fine ones.  We made money
off 
both.  Naturally, those of us who worked there knew which to buy
ourselves.

Moral: the factory is irrelevant.  It's the brand that counts.

One other comment: dealers are rarely in a position to know such arcane
(and 
often secret) details such as were the equipment they sell is made.  At
the 
fan factory, we were told that such information was a trade secret 
and proprietary and that if we divulged it we'd be fired.  Now I can see
a 
sales rep for Jet *claiming* his planer was made in the same factory as 
Delta's, but can you imagine a Delta rep divulging such a thing?  

Moral: sales reps sometimes stretch the truth, and dealers sometimes
pretend 
to know more than they really do.

Todd Carney
Ashland, Oregon


From GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:58 EST 1997
Article: 183792 of rec.woodworking
From: "G.I." <GDBRANCH@news.localaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183792

One of the problems you will run into when you try to use your tools for
metal and wood is that in most cases working with metal requires you to use
a lube or coolant which makes a mess that will have to be totally cleaned
up or any wood coming in contact with it will absorb the lube or coolant.
It can be done but be very careful about cleaning up after one or the
other. The problem with heat is also present it doesn't take much to ignite
wood shavings. I use my drill press for both and I built a plywood top for
use when I want to drill anything in wood.

Good luck!


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:58 EST 1997
Article: 183793 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 01:20:17 GMT
Organization: Retired
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Get a 4 foot, straight 2 X 4 and cut a kerf down the center of it the full
length on the wide side. The depth should be about 1/64" less than the
diameter of the dowel. Once the first kerf is cut, turn the 2 X 4 around
and make another pass. Move your fence and repeat until the kerf is JUST
wide enough for the dowel to fit into it. Move the fence in very small
increments as you get near the proper width and check the fit after each
pass.

Nail a piece of wood to one end of the 2 X 4 to act as a pusher. Set your
blade to about 1/16" higher than the dowel and set the rip fence to cut
down the center of the dado, put the 2 X 4 over the dowel and rip away.
Keep the 2 X 4 solidly against the fence so that it doesn't rock, causing
an uneven cut. You can also nail some scraps to the top of the 2 X 4 for
your hands to push on. Take care not to nail into the dado.

The reason for the dado as opposed to a V is to keep from putting side
pressure on the dowel when the blade has cut through the end of the dowel.

I've used this procedure successfully. The dowel is always enclosed, so it
is about as safe a procedure as there is.

If you have any questions you can e-mail me.
-- 
Best -- Frank




From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:44:59 EST 1997
Article: 183794 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer Question?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:55:50 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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John Levin writes
> In article <32fb83f3.5079244@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,  
gsinos@worldnet.att.net 
> says...
> >Did she really say two or three _hundred_ feet?  That's not even one
> >short session with a few boards.  Are you sure she didn't say 2 or 3
> >thousand feet?
> 
> >>.....(snip)...  She said that the rubber feed rollers should be cleaned
> >> with mineral spirits and a rag every 200-300 linear feet of planed  
boards.
> 
> Unless you regularly work with 100 foot long boards, 200-300 LINEAL feet of 
> lumber is a lot of wood (for example, 300 lineal feet of 1x6s would be 37 
> and a half 8 foot boards

That's assuming you only do one pass on one side of each board. More 
realistically, you're doing 2 or 3 passes per side. So, 200-300 lineal
feet works out to about six of those 8' boards.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From timlange@gte.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:00 EST 1997
Article: 183795 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Timothy M. Lange" <timlange@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:04:32 -0800
Organization: GTE Intelligent Network Services, GTE INS
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Hackwood wrote:
> 
> This past summer, UPS guy comes by with a piece of paper and asks if we
> ever received that item. I didn't know anything about it, so I ask wifey
> (it was hers) and she didn't remember getting the package (just some
> curtains). He asks me to sign. I sign. Now, UPS will no longer drop
> packages at my door unless I sign for it which is a major drag.

<snip>

I too order things that UPS/Fed-Ex wants me to sign for or they will not
deliver.  And actually I would not want them to leave computer
components
that I order or anything else that costs me significant dollars on my
front
porch all day.  I ask the companies that I order from to please deliver
to
my work address.  So far they are quite willing to do this.

Tim Lange 
West Lafayette, IN


From rjl@aa.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:01 EST 1997
Article: 183796 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Raoul J. Laurent III" <rjl@aa.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fancy dovetail jigs
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:20:08 -0700
Organization: Alternate Access Incorporated
Lines: 42
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References: <33022EB6.2A98@applogic.com>
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To: Skip <skip@applogic.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183796

Skip wrote:
> 
> I saw a demo of the JoinTech system a few days ago and am looking for a
> system that could make outlined dovetails, maybe box joints too, and was
> easy enough to use for production. I saw the Leigh jig video too. It
> seems to be production oriented, but can't do the fancy stuff. I'm
> leaning towards the Incra Ultra to put on my Delta Router/Shaper. I've
> got the old plastic Incra as the heart of a homemade plywood fence
> system and it's sturdy, but not incrementally adjustable (easily).
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion on which to use? Comments on the Incra
> Ultra? Anyone do more with the Leigh than the video shows?
> 
> I'm leaning towards the Incra, rather than the JoinTech, because it
> seems to be easier to micro-adjust and be a little cheaper. How are
> these systems on repeatability and production use (100 boxes at a run)?
> 
> TIA,
> Skip

I recently purchased the Incra Ultra Lite from Hartville Tools.  Its a
scaled down, 12", version of the Incra Ultra line.  It has proved to be
an easy to use and fairly flexible jig.  Even more flexibility came from
the use of the freeware, Template Maker, zipped into a file called
dovetail.zip at ftp://ftp.digex.net/pub/access/giammot/ .  I believe the
systems strong point is certainly repeatability and lends itself quite
well to production use.

I would recommend the Ultra model, which is a bit heftier than the Lite
and has five template channels as opposed to the Lite's three.

If I had it to do over again, I would have purchased the Incra Ultra 16"
to begin with because after upgrading the Lite with an Incra Stop and
the master template library, both of which come with the Ultra, my cost
would have been the same.

BTW, after searching through half a dozen mail order catalogs, I found
the best price on the Ultra Lite and Ultra 16 is offered by Grizzly
Imports at http://www.grizzlyimports.com/ .

Good Luck
rjl


From neilw@informix.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:02 EST 1997
Article: 183797 of rec.woodworking
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From: Neil Williams <neilw@informix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cedar deck preservation
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:08:10 -0800
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <3302070A.6EBA@informix.com>
References: <3300E7C5.39BC@austin360.com>
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To: slaton <wslaton@austin360.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183797

slaton wrote:
> 
> Any of you guys had any pleasant experiences with deck preservatives.
> Everyone in the industry seems to sell "THE ABSOLUTE BEST".  Some truly
> awful. Any comments appreciated before I spray a nice new cedar deck
> with some crap.

Don't know if this helps, but I've had an Adirondack chair on my back
porch where it's exposed to direct sun most of the day. Anyway, it's 
been out there 3-4 years now, through rain and shine (but no snow).

When it was new, I sanded and stained the unfinished wood with some
gel stain whose name escapes me. Then I covered it with three coats
of Varathane's exterior finish, semi-gloss (the oil-based mixture).
Oh, I also applied 2 coats of stain.

The finish had held up pretty well. It's no longer glossy, but there's
absolutely no fading of the stain yet. The chair has just recently
(last month) started building up some mold on a couple of the horizontal
surfaces, so I'll probably clean it up and reseal again with the
varathane this summer.

I also did a bench at the same time as the adirondack chair, but only
used one coat of stain and one coat of the varathane (I was getting
tired by then). The color of the stain is still the same as the
adirondack chair.

--Neil


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:03 EST 1997
Article: 183798 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1-1/2 HP Router or Laminate Trimmer?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 21:40:07 GMT
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>> 
>> I have a (soon to be table mounted) 3-1/4 HP Freud FT2000E and was
>> wondering what to get for hand-held work.  A laminate trimmer looks
>> much easier to handle and get in small places (and is cheaper), but
>> would it leave too much of a 'power gap' between itself and the Freud?
>> 
>> - John C. Straffin
>> straffin@evolveinc.com
>John I have Abig p.c.router and a 1 1/2 p.c. for smaller hand held work
>you will not be happy with a laminate trimmer ( they really are for
>trimming)
>hope this helps
>jim
>
>

Jim, beg to differ.  I use the Ryobi trimmer for a number of things besides trimming. It rounds over, digs narrow dadoes/rabbets, etc.  The Makita stays in the table for 85% of the routing. 


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:04 EST 1997
Article: 183799 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 01:45:21 GMT
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On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:11:17 -0500, Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
wrote:

>I've thought about the 'yellow buddies'. Do you use them?
>It would seem to me that the one in the front would always be in the way
>of your hand, or push stick, when making narrow rips, no? 
>I know that you can flip the buddy up, but then it wouldn't be doing its
>job - would it.
> 
>Anyone have any experience with these items? How do you like them?

I've had a set for the TS for more than twelve years.  Yep, the front
one gets in the way ripping narrow stock, so there is a trade off for
safety.  Even with my WWII, once I stop the rip to change positions I
usually get a kerf mark.  However, they needn't be used in pairs.
Just having the back wheel in place (to the right of the blade) to
keep the material from moving toward the blade and kicking up is a
help.  For the $30 bucks/pair  they cost these days, they make alot of
sense just to have available.  They were about $70 when | bought mine,
and my set was the original design which did not come with the
adjusting screw (you had to change the pins).  I had to add adjusters
made from threaded stock, but they work fine.  dcr


From echi@cisco.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:05 EST 1997
Article: 183800 of rec.woodworking
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From: echi@cisco.com (P. Eric Chi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: how to square a try square
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 21:16:37 GMT
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I have a Stanley try square ( with metal handle) which I got from a local 
hardware store quite a while back. I found it is NOT square. Is there anyway I 
can fix it?
(BTW, it is too late to return it.)

Thanks,

Eric.
 


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:06 EST 1997
Article: 183801 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:24:16 -0500
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Ed Ladendorf wrote:
> 
> Hi Gang
> 
> Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I do it without getting hurt? 
 
I doubt it !!
  
> Thanks
> Ed
 
ED,
MAN - this scares the f outa me just thinking about it!. 
My suggestion would be to find another way to acomplish what you're
looking for. DON'T EVEN TRY IT  - Surely it can't be worht the risk?


From dmc@silcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:07 EST 1997
Article: 183802 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan McCammon <dmc@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:32:22 -0800
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Termite wrote:
> 
> Ed Ladendorf wrote:
> >
> > Hi Gang
> >
> > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I do it without getting hurt?
> 
> I doubt it !!
> 
> > Thanks
> > Ed
> 
> ED,
> MAN - this scares the f outa me just thinking about it!.
> My suggestion would be to find another way to acomplish what you're
> looking for. DON'T EVEN TRY IT  - Surely it can't be worht the risk?
	How about using a 3/8" round over (on the router table), rout both side
on a 3/4" board, and rip the strip off?


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:08 EST 1997
Article: 183803 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Software for Woodworkers
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Go to http://www.iucf.indiana.edu/~brown/hyplan/wood.html and read through
the whole page. You will find a few programs to help. 

I just purchased the commercial version of SHEET LAYOUT. You list the sizes
of the pieces and it shows how to lay out your cuts on plywood. There are
three different versions. 

I also bought DRAFT CHOICE for WINDOWS. It's a nice CAD program.
-- 
Best -- Frank




From fiddle@rust.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:09 EST 1997
Article: 183804 of rec.woodworking
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From: fiddle <fiddle@rust.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: need artisans
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:56:20 -0500
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Looking for handmade wood products for upcoming internet storefront.
Must be of the highest quality and very unique. fiddle@rust.net


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:11 EST 1997
Article: 183805 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
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r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager) wrote:

;In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>,
Abacab 
;says...

;snip
;> 
;> About the (metric) system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.
1 litre of water
;> weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar
comparisons
what does 1kg of gasoline weigh and what temperature does it freeze at
? 
;> for lengths.
; I hope that makes sense to some, and I'm sure it will break open a
huge
;> argument with others.  I'm lucky enough to be at the age where I
bounce
;> back and forth between the two.  I favor metric for determining the
;> weather, etc, and standard for woodworking and the gas usage of my
car.
;> It would seem to me that regards to the weather the degrees F are
far more accurate have roughly twice the range ,as far as woodworking
goes it seems the imperial measurement is preferable here again as any
scale provides a self contained calculator ,ie half of 2 ,1/2 = 1,1/4
=5/8 =5/16 =5/32 and  on and on .car gas milage seems to me to makes
little difference .
;> Take Care all,
;> Dan Hamill
;> Atlantic Canada
;> 

;I have received a lot of email responses so far on my original
question 
;and thanks to some of you, I am *much* better informed ... then
again, 
;from some others ... well ... er ... thanks anyway.

;I agree with Dan (a Canadian) about the metric system.
;Oz (that's Australia, not Austria) went metric in 1966 and it's the 
;*best* thing we ever did.  Some advantages :
;1.	Taking 10ml of medicine suddenly made sense    
You need a measuring device to do that ,a simple teaspoon does the
same thing here 


;2.	Woodworking dimensions and calculations are simple ... 24 1/8"
- 3 
;3/4" = ??? ... no thanks!
Explaned previously , showing that the imperial system is preferable
in my opinion .



;3.	Simple calcs = less chance of error = a happier woodworker
Again this has been answered 
;4.	It annoys the heck out of you Yankees who are about the only 
;people left in the world who use imperial measurement.

Idont know about the rest of the world but they are probably a little
irked that this is the major market which the rest of you are trying
your best to particate in ,and behold in many cases you are fored into
complying with the measurement systems of this country .
I am not seeing too many subarus etc [which you countryman advertises
over here ] with metric gas gauges .
;4.	um,
;5.	um, um,
;6.	I guess that's all.

;Some disadvantages :
;1.	We have to travel further to get from town A to town B. What
used 
;to be 50 miles is now 80 kilometres ;-)
;2.	Can't think of any others.

;The funny thing about our metrication 30 yrs ago is that, while there
are 
;people still alive who grew up with the imperial system, both systems
of 
;measurement are, generally, acceptable.  I go down to the local
timber 
;supplier to get some wood and ask for 3 metres of 2" by 1" ... and
they 
;understand!  When I get it home and start a project, there are *only*

;metric rules and micrometers to be found.  I wouldn't work in the 
;imperial system ever again.

;Reading plans and interpreting dimensions from the Yankee mags means
that 
;a calculator to convert imperial to metric is never more than a foot
.. 
;er ... I mean ... 304.8 millimetres away. 


;Mike Hide (a yankee) wrote :
Living here in the south some I know would take offense at being
called yankees, as probably some in the north would take offense at
being called rebs . as far as Mike Hide goes for your info he is
neither . So wrong again I`m afraid .

;"I cant imagine why you Austrians adopted a french measurement system

;..."

;"Austria"??  "Austria?"??   That's a very long way from where I live
.. 
;you yanks sure lead a sheltered life ... the world was once thought
to be 
So dont you austrians ? blame the yanks for everthing ,we in the south
do it all the time .Blame the yankees for every thing that goes wrong
that is .As far as my earlier post goes you will notice a reference to
wannabies  the spelling was wallabies which infers that i was well
aware that they are not indiginous to Austria .
;square and once you got to the e
. you would fall off.  My 
;suspicions that you guys are taught to believe that the edge of the
world 
;now coincides with the edge of the 48 contiguous states has been 
;confirmed.
;:-) ;-) :-)
Getting back to the Austria bit you will notice that they have a
dopted the same system of measurements and lets face it they dont have
PINTS of beer not even fosters ., and they prance around in those
little leather trousers and all , so I guess the best is to come as
far as you all are concerned .
You know that we make laderhose and leather trousers here , so send
your orders in while there is still time ,only one problem as far as i
can see and thats we only make them in US sizes 


                               mjh
;Again, thanks for the informative responses.
;-- 
;Regards, Rick

;To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.




From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:12 EST 1997
Article: 183806 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TS: Belt vs Direct Drive, Benchtop vs Free standing?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:18:17 GMT
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  I'm really new to woodworking and I'm dreaming about getting a table saw. So
I was wondering if someone can tell me the pros/cons of the various types of
table saws? I imagine a free standing TS would be more versatile than a
benchtop model. But a benchtop model is a whole lot cheaper! All of the direct
drive models I've played with in the stores seem smoother in operating the
depth and tilt adjustments than the belt driven models. The belt drive models
have more cut depth (at 90 that is. At 45, both have about the same 2.25) than
the direct drives. BTW, I've read the review of several free standing models at
http://www.augusthome.com/tsaw_rev.htm. 

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From jaw@Eng.Sun.COM Sat Feb 15 11:45:13 EST 1997
Article: 183807 of rec.woodworking
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From: jaw@Eng.Sun.COM (Joe Woerdeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Japanese tools in N.H.
Date: 12 Feb 1997 21:44:02 GMT
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In article VAA11734@ladder01.news.aol.com, davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan) writes:
><<I have heard that there is a Japanese tool supplier/store in the Concord
>N.H. area. I live in the Boston area an would love to have a local
>supplier that I could visit. Can anyone help? E-mail to:
>Brawny@concentric.net>>
>
>Best selection in USA is from:
>
>The Japan Woodworker in Alameda, CA  (south of San Francisco..sorry, don't
>have number handy).
>
	(800)537-7820 or their URL is http://www.tenthmuse.com/japan/woodworker.html

Another very good source is Hida Tool (800) 443-5512.

	Hida is exclusively Japanese Tools - more variety and specialty tools esp 
	for saws and planes.

	JWW stocks higher end planes and chisels.

	Both have catalogs and will special order.

Joe



From Bubba Sat Feb 15 11:45:14 EST 1997
Article: 183808 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bubba
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 04:57:46 GMT
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What are you talking about???????

On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 05:36:05 GMT, Tim Taylor wrote:

>I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
>have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood that
>have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type? Unfortunately
>my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
>years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
>remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
>tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
>What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   



From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:14 EST 1997
Article: 183809 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
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On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:16:05 GMT, Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan
Murphy) wrote:

>Two reasons not to get the 8" are ....
>
>1) 99.9995% of the cuts you do with a dado blade are under 1" in
>depth.
>
>I think the 6" super cuts up to an 1.5 inches.... I'm not sure I
>hardly ever use it above 5/16 ".
>
>2) The Mass of an 8" Stacked dado set to a 3/4" witdth is ALOT of
>blade for a 1.5 hp Contractors saw to swing.
>
 Here's another reason.  One of the best (and most reasonable, $3)
cabinet hinges available for overlay doors, IMO, is a self-closing
knife-style hinge that mounts in a 1/4" stopped kerf sawn into the
stile on the back of the door.  The kerf can only be cut with a
six-inch dado set, else it will extend too far beyond the hinge. 
I've only found my 6" and 7" dado sets inadequate once, when making
large "Greek Key" molding as a component of a built-up crown molding.
Couldn't cut the kerfs deep enough, so had to _borrow_ an 8" set.  I
just hate it when that happens. dcr


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Sat Feb 15 11:45:16 EST 1997
Article: 183810 of rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
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Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:54:17 GMT
Lines: 21
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183810

In article <gboggs-120297150410@grunge.advtech.uswest.com>,
gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs) wrote:
>   
>> Are you guys kidding  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'. That's just a two-bit cable
>> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
>> less fancy tools.
> 
> [...]
> 
> Two-bit cable channel?

Yeah...   black, white, and two shades of grey.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From alcheney@agt.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:16 EST 1997
Article: 183811 of rec.woodworking
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From: alcheney@agt.net (Al Cheney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dremel tool engraving??
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 02:06:02 GMT
Organization: TELUS Communications Inc.
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In article <32fcc7ad.0@news3.paonline.com>, camchase <camchase@gxl.com> wrote:
>I am trying to do some simple engraving (an initail) on the top of a box I
>am building.  Is there anyone that has experience in doing this with a 
>Dremel tool?  What type of bit and how deep, etc?  I have experimented 
>with a few and don't like the results I have gotten.  Any help 
>appreciated. 

        I have done this same thing on a few projects I have built. I filled 
the engraving with an off setting wood filler and sanded it down, (eg. white 
pine on mahogony). This creates a somewhat diffrent effect and looks quite 
nice on some applications.

        The size of bit and depth of cut on any engraving depends to a large 
degree on the size of the project. All things are relitive. : ^ )


From alcheney@agt.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:17 EST 1997
Article: 183812 of rec.woodworking
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From: alcheney@agt.net (Al Cheney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 02:06:12 GMT
Organization: TELUS Communications Inc.
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In article <19970209214001.QAA29012@ladder01.news.aol.com>, rbowles96@aol.com 
wrote:
<Snip> Periodic posting of the FAQs does take download time and unless you have a way to interrupt
>you sit and wait.  comments?

        Add "FAQ" to kill file list.

        Actually a good news reader and the use of a kill file pretty well 
gets around the problems of a large news group. I have eliminated the topics I 
absolutly do not want to read about, or have grown very tired of after the 
third or fourth trip around the block. I enjoy browsing the rest of the topics 
for items of intrest that can come up on any number of related topics.

        I think we would lose a lot of this if we split the group. I vote for 
the statis quo.


From sgs8r@virginia.edu Sat Feb 15 11:45:18 EST 1997
Article: 183813 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: "Stephen G. Strickland" <sgs8r@virginia.edu>
Subject: Re: Baltic & Apple ply source
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Boulter Plywood in Cambridge (or is it Somerville) MA has an extensive
line of plywood varieties including Baltic Birch (I bought some when I
lived in the area in the late 80s'). 

-Steve


From neuron@rtt@synapse.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:19 EST 1997
Article: 183814 of rec.woodworking
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From: neuron@rtt@synapse.net (Richard Tomkins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:28:43 GMT
Organization: neuron, technology consultants
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Having just received my Canadian Encyclopedia Plus, Here is the home of
the Robertson.

 Milton  

 Milton, Ont, Town, pop  32 075 (1991c), 32 037 (1986c), located 29 km
W of Toronto. The area was opened to settlement with the purchase of
the Mississauga Tract from the Mississauga Indians, and creation of the
York Road (Hwy 5) to London. It was first called Martin's Mills after a
pioneer family, and in 1837 was renamed Milton. It was made county seat
of Halton in 1853 and a town in 1857. The agricultural based economy
has become more industrialized due to its geographical location.
Milton, home of the Robertson Ňsocket headÓ screw , now abounds with
leisure attractions and historic sites including a modern recreational
complex, The Ontario Agricultural Museum and The Electric Railway
Museum. As steam capital of Ontario, Milton is the home of ŇSteam-EraÓ.
 

Author:  K.L. MORRISON AND R.A. SMITH  


--------------------
The Canadian Encyclopedia Plus Copyright © 1995 McClelland & Stewart
Inc.

This MIND left BLANK Intentionally!


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:20 EST 1997
Article: 183815 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:50:45 GMT
Organization: Retired
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http://www.mirror.org/cabinetware/cab6.html

Also check out other good links at
http://www.woodworking.com/index.html#WEBPAGES
-- 
Best -- Frank




From bodean@ricochet.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:21 EST 1997
Article: 183816 of rec.woodworking
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From: Geoff Waite <bodean@ricochet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Euro Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:37:23 -0700
Organization: Waite Construction
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Charles Howey wrote:
> 
> Hi:
>         When I had my kitchen remodeled the drawer slides and such were mounted
> with short, fat coarse threaded screws which were perfect for such duty.
>         I think these are sometimes called Euro screws and are associated with
> the European type hardware.
>         I have searched catalogs and hardware stores, but I have never found
> anyplace to buy them.
>         Does anyone have a source for these little rascals?
>                                         howey@ix.netcom.com
 Hi All, Geoff here- The euro screws talked about are available from:
Daniels-Olsen Building Products 1-800-952-2303, Sioux Falls, SD 
815 West Black Hawk St
They are available in 1/2" and 5/8"


From davis@pilot.msu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:45:22 EST 1997
Article: 183817 of rec.woodworking
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From: davis@pilot.msu.edu (Jerry Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fancy dovetail jigs
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:25:09 GMT
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In article <33022EB6.2A98@applogic.com>, Skip <skip@applogic.com> says:

I have had the JoinTech system for about five years.  Making the 
outlined dovetails is not as easy as they make it appear.  It takes a lot
of adjusting and practice.  I really like the JoinTech and I use it on my
router table, on the band saw, and at the drill press.  The ability to 
move the fence 1/64th is nice when you are drilling holes that have to be
an exact distance from each other.

Jerry
>
>I saw a demo of the JoinTech system a few days ago and am looking for a
>system that could make outlined dovetails, maybe box joints too, and was
>easy enough to use for production. I saw the Leigh jig video too. It
>seems to be production oriented, but can't do the fancy stuff. I'm
>leaning towards the Incra Ultra to put on my Delta Router/Shaper. I've
>got the old plastic Incra as the heart of a homemade plywood fence
>system and it's sturdy, but not incrementally adjustable (easily).
>
>Does anyone have an opinion on which to use? Comments on the Incra
>Ultra? Anyone do more with the Leigh than the video shows?
>
>I'm leaning towards the Incra, rather than the JoinTech, because it
>seems to be easier to micro-adjust and be a little cheaper. How are
>these systems on repeatability and production use (100 boxes at a run)?
>
>TIA,
>Skip


From mprice1313@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:23 EST 1997
Article: 183818 of rec.woodworking
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From: mprice1313@aol.com (MPrice1313)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table top jointers (Delta 37-070)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:37:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>I am thinking about getting a table top jointer, as I don't have room for
a
floor model in my shop. The only ones I know of are the AMT line, which I
don't like, and the Delta 37-070, which I don't know anything about.
Anybody have any information on the Delta ?

Thanks
  Tandy Penn

I've had the machine for about a year and for what it is, it is a good
machine.  The knives are aligned fine and for 3 foot stock and under it
trues well.  All the glueup work I've done is excellent.  Since I'm
getting more in to woodworking, I am moving up to a stationary 6",
probably the Jet.  You'll find this tool is a real workhorse in the shop.
Good luck!  Michael


From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:24 EST 1997
Article: 183819 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Euro Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:37:43 GMT
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Hafele Hardware in the 310 area code, or, any wholesale cabinet
hardware supplier.

Charles Howey  <howey@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Hi:
>	When I had my kitchen remodeled the drawer slides and such were mounted
>with short, fat coarse threaded screws which were perfect for such duty.
>	I think these are sometimes called Euro screws and are associated with
>the European type hardware.
>	I have searched catalogs and hardware stores, but I have never found
>anyplace to buy them.
>	Does anyone have a source for these little rascals?
>					howey@ix.netcom.com




From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:25 EST 1997
Article: 183820 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:44:54 GMT
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 05:27:04 GMT, Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan)
wrote:

>I know it's partly jelousy.  But man if I bought every gadget Norm has
>I wouldn't be able to afford any lumber..(not to mention "Antique
>Pine").

FWIW, the shop you see on NYW isn't Norm's.  It's a set located at, I
believe, Russell Morash's home.  dcr


From ddurbin@fn5.freenet.tlh.fl.us Sat Feb 15 11:45:25 EST 1997
Article: 183821 of rec.woodworking
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From: ddurbin@fn5.freenet.tlh.fl.us (Dick Durbin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: 12 Feb 1997 17:21:59 -0500
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Tim Gillespie (tgillesp@mail.tds.net) wrote:
: LEE WARD wrote:

: Let's see. Bu my count they were (in tentative chronological order):

: 	Peggy Knapp
: 	Suzanne Eglie(sp)
: 	Joanne Liebler
: 	Robin Hartle

I understand there is going to be a new mini-series on PBS: "The Many
Wives of Dean Johnson."                fe
-- 
Dick Durbin       * "Who is out there to inspire us with a
Tallahassee, FL   * personal example of virtue and self 
                  * sacrifice in the name of a higher good?"
                                             - CALVIN


                   


From jroth@cpcug.org Sat Feb 15 11:45:26 EST 1997
Article: 183822 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Rothchild <jroth@cpcug.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Books re built-ins
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:41:54 -0500
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Can anyone recommend a book that has design ideas for built-in
bookshelves?  I've seen lots of books about building shelves, but none
of them deal with built-ins.


From kenst@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:27 EST 1997
Article: 183823 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Stovesand <kenst@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:41:59 -0500
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Kevin W. Tucker wrote:
> but I can't call it advertising on PUBLIC TV (yes, I am a
> bit defensive here) when he uses a variety of tools and has never pointed out
> that "Delta makes the very best" or some other 1950's sales-pitch slogan. 

I disagree that using tools on PBS is not advertising just because they
avoid a certain form of slogan. Do you really think that anyone would be
swayed to go buy a Unisaw if only they mentioned something like "it's
great"? Regardless, at the beginning they have a pretty good facsimile
of a commercial message for insurance, local woodworking stores, Delta,
etc.  Why don't these shows just go on a commercial station and give up
this PBS sham?

Regards,

Ken S.



From wooddon@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:28 EST 1997
Article: 183824 of rec.woodworking
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From: wooddon@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pay back time
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:52:07 GMT
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Hi to all,
I need help. Best friend ( wife) ask me to build her a wall mounted quilt hanger. She wants to display her full sized quilts. I have invisioned a double wood bar with thur bolts into threaded inserts and its lookig pretty ugly. I have never seen a quilt wall hanger. She wants to have the quilt fully open and hang it from this thing. I would really appreciate any and all ideas and help. please post here or e-mail me.
                                    Wooddon


From rharding@airnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:29 EST 1997
Article: 183825 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rick Harding" <rharding@airnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: 12 Feb 1997 20:39:56 GMT
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I recently bought a ShopSmith DC after seeing it at one of there road shows
at the local mall.  I bought the SS because I have a SS 510 that I have
been very happy with and new that the hoses/etc. would connect up without
needing any adapters.  I also liked the compact design, ease of mobility,
and how quiet it ran.  About a week and a half after arrival, I
accidentally sucked up a cone shaped piece of plastic about 2" in diameter,
well the machine made a terrible noise and began vibrating like mad.  I
opened it to remove what I thought was going to be the trapped piece of
plastic and discovered that the object had busted out two of the PLASTIC
fan blades.
I think this machine will be going back to SS.  

Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
has good suction and runs quietly.

<rlhardin@ingr.com>



From KnJacobs@mail.concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:30 EST 1997
Article: 183826 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kenneth Jacobs <KnJacobs@mail.concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Euro Screws
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:53:02 -0800
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3302901E.4387@mail.concentric.net>
References: <5dsutu$328@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183826

Charles Howey wrote:
> 
> Hi:
>         When I had my kitchen remodeled the drawer slides and such were mounted
> with short, fat coarse threaded screws which were perfect for such duty.
>         I think these are sometimes called Euro screws and are associated with
> the European type hardware.
>         I have searched catalogs and hardware stores, but I have never found
> anyplace to buy them.
>         Does anyone have a source for these little rascals?
>                                         howey@ix.netcom.com

Both Woodworker's Hardware (1-800-383-0130) and Woodworker's Store
(1-800-279-4441) carry euroscrews.  Woodworker's hardware has them in
several lengths.  Woodworker's Store only has one size (the most
common).


From android@ubotit.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:31 EST 1997
Article: 183827 of rec.woodworking
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From: android@ubotit.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence on left side??
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:41:47 GMT
Organization: CADVision Development Corp.
Lines: 39
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On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:57:07 -0600, "John W. Shear" <jshear@cray.com>
wrote:

>Having so little experience with a table saw, I would like someone to
>explain what situation would require having the fence to the left of
>the blade.  Seems to me everything could be done with it on the right
>side, but that probably shows my lack of TS experience.

I have an old  "National' table saw which during it's last move, fell
off the truck, literally, and bent the table.  I fabricated a new,
screwed-on heavier table out of some sixteenth inch flat steel and
only made one mitre slot, on the left side of the blade.  As the saw
is really not that great at tilting the arbour, I am suffering with it
in the vertical-only position until I finally replace it with a new
one.  (I've been following this NG with great interest in CAD programs
and "What tablesaw should I buy??"  I have some suggestions on CAD
which I'll hold off on for another day.

My question, which I'll throw out to all you experiences woodwackers,
is "What is the 'proper' way to stand behind the board to run it past
the blade?"  Assume 3/4 inch by six inch spruce fence boards, or
trying to rip 3/4 inch thick plywood.

I have found the left slot allows me to stand behind the fence, rather
than behind the board, in case of a kickback.  I  am right handed, and
use my push stick(s) and feeding with my right hand while holding the
board against the fence with my left, i.e., pulling it into the fence
rather than pushing it into the fence if I had the fence on the right
side.

Since I type for a living, (was a programmer, now write technical
proposals) I'd like to keep my fingers intact, particularly for when I
buy a better machine.  Is there anything inherently wrong with this
technique?  Please, your thoughts are most welcome.

Given the recent messages on Netiquette, I would most appreciate
personal email as well as a posting, to  SPARKE@CADVISION.COM

Best regards.


From ptacek@wilcox.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:32 EST 1997
Article: 183828 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dave Ptacek" <ptacek@wilcox.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman router replacement
Date: 12 Feb 1997 19:26:20 GMT
Organization: Wilcox Electric
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Andrew Patterson <aep@nosc.mil> wrote in article
<01bc17c9$6ed17f60$94883180@ifozdex>...
> > >I would like to know more about this from people that have actually
had
> > >their Sears routers repalced. I looked for the original thread that
had
> > >the replaced routers in it, but it seems to have expired.
> 

I took my 1.5hp back to SEARS a week ago, and they didn't know anything
about the adjustable height mechanism.  They took my name and number and
said they would check into it.  After a couple of days and no response, I
surfed over to www.sears.com and stated my situation in a "tell us what you
think" email.  The email stated the problem and closed with me stating that
I would become a "very unhappy ex-Sears customer" if the situation wasn't
resolved.  I was called in 48 hrs, and the result was "please bring your
router (receipt optional) and we'll give you the purchase price as credit
to another router".  

Today, I successfully exchanged it for the new 1.5hp model no questions
asked.  I would like to thank rec.ww for bringing up the possible router
exchange, I too have had the height "automatically" adjust but just assumed
that's what a person gets when you buy cheap instead of quality.

Dave.


From donnay@uhs.umass.edu Sat Feb 15 11:45:33 EST 1997
Article: 183829 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerome R Yezierski <donnay@uhs.umass.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:57:41 -0500
Organization: univ.of mass
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <33026705.12BA@uhs.umass.edu>
References: <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au> <32FFE246.50EC@ix.netcom.com>
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Bill Pounds wrote:

>  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch is not really one inch, it's 3/4 inch. 

   Sorry Mr Pounds 4/4 means 1 inch and 1/8. Yes it means rough
lumber.If its not you have just been ripped off by the seller. 

    When I was a newbie I asked about why rough luber was sold that way
and I was told that the tree is cut while it is still green.So they cut
it leaving that extra amount so that when it is dried it will be close
to a "heavy inch".Than once its milled(finished two sides)it will be
3/4inch. A good lumber mill will plane it a 1/16 larger so when you
finish sanding or glueing up and running thru a thickness planer again
it will be close to 3/4inch. 

    Thats a new one for me having lumber sold in metric in a place that
is /was so close to dear old England.
   It doesn't have anything to do with giving a job to Old England by
forcing folks to settle in Austriala does it:-)

 Great woodworking folks.
Jerome


From meiners@reno.quik.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:34 EST 1997
Article: 183830 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Meiners <meiners@reno.quik.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:04:01 -0800
Organization: InteleNet Communications, Inc.
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If you must see JoJo, look on HGTV's "Room for Change"


Dick Durbin wrote:
> 
> Tim Gillespie (tgillesp@mail.tds.net) wrote:
> : LEE WARD wrote:
> 
> : Let's see. Bu my count they were (in tentative chronological order):
> 
> :       Peggy Knapp
> :       Suzanne Eglie(sp)
> :       Joanne Liebler
> :       Robin Hartle
> 
> I understand there is going to be a new mini-series on PBS: "The Many
> Wives of Dean Johnson."                fe
> --
> Dick Durbin       * "Who is out there to inspire us with a
> Tallahassee, FL   * personal example of virtue and self
>                   * sacrifice in the name of a higher good?"
>                                              - CALVIN
> 
>


From rwiegand@i1.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:34 EST 1997
Article: 183831 of rec.woodworking
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From: rwiegand@i1.net (Roger Wiegand)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:03:23 -0600
Organization: not really
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Message-ID: <rwiegand-1202972103230001@news1.i1.net>
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In article <5dlugo$igl$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>, Jim Jackson
<72406.3433@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>I can not find rec.crafts.woodturning either.  I am using 
>Compuserve for this newsgroup.  They do not seem to update the 
>newgroup server or I am missing something.
>         Jim J.
>
>-- 

r.c.w is alive and well, I'm happy to report with lots of activity. Ask
your service provider to add it to your service and make sure your full
group list has been updated recently. Altavista or the news service at
zippo.com:

http://drn.zippo.com/news-bin/wwwnews?rec.crafts.woodturning

-- 
Thanks,
Roger

mailto:rwiegand@i1.net


From vrajcevski@vnet.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:36 EST 1997
Article: 183832 of rec.woodworking
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From: VLADIMIR@
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re:countertop installation
Date: 13 Feb 1997 02:09:18 GMT
Organization: IBM Zurich Research Laboratory
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In <3302605C.3105@glinx.com>, The McClares <mcclare@glinx.com> writes:
>
>------------660B1D9F72270
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Does anyone know what the preferred glue or sealant would be for
>joining the mitered corner of a preformed countertop?The counter has a
>particle board substrate with a moulded arborite top.the mitered corner
>is joined by three bolts but it seems to me that some sort of glue
>sealant should also be used.Am I correct or way of base?Any advice
>appreciated,
>                                Larry McClare
>                               Black Rock,N.S.
>                               mcclare@glinx.com

I just went through this thing last week myself and yes you should/could use 
normal clear silicone gap sealant or try to find an acrylic sealant made by 
the manufacturer of the laminate material that would match the colour of the benchtop. 

A word of warning though, use very, very little otherwise you'll have trouble
keeping the parts aligned -they tend to slide on top of each other.

Vladimir   


From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:36 EST 1997
Article: 183833 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:09:16 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
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> On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 05:36:05 GMT, Tim Taylor wrote:
> 
>>I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
>>have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood that
>>have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type? Unfortunately
>>my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
>>years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
>>remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
>>tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
>>What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   
> 

  Is that what tigerwood is? A variety of maple? The lumber yard has a sample
panel made out of "tigerwood" that looks gorgeous! That's what I'd really like
to build my computer desk out of but I couldn't find any of it around there.
They had zebrawood marked but no tigerwood. I'm going to have to go back and
check out the maples again.

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:37 EST 1997
Article: 183834 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 03:25:09 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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On 12 Feb 1997 14:48:38 GMT, Ed Ladendorf <eladendo> wrote:
>
>Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I 
>do it without getting hurt?

I've never done this, and the hair on the back of my neck stood up
when I read your post.  But, here's a wild idea I'd be willing to try
if this has to be done:  Using a 3/4" core box bit on your router
table with fence, rout a 3/8"-deep cove the full length of a 50" piece
of inexpensive 4/4 stock like poplar that you've jointed flat and
square. Then, fix the dowel in the cove using short lengths of
heavy-duty (fabric-core) double-faced carpet tape,  every six inches
or so, so that the dowel is held rigidly.   Rip the stock as you
normally would, but down the center of the dowel.  If you try this and
it works, let us know.  Actually, let us know if it doesn't work,
also. :-). dcr


From dow@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:38 EST 1997
Article: 183835 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.nacamar.de!uunet!in1.uu.net!206.149.24.18!excalibur.flash.net!not-for-mail
From: "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help me find a plan to make a bed...
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:15:41 -0600
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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Hi all...

Today I looked at the Feb. '97 issue of WORKBENCH.  On page 6 there's a
picture of all of Augusthome's magazines.  One in particular, the
picture or WOODSMITH, shows a bed... My wife would like me to get plans
for it and for some other bedroom furniture in a like/similar style...

Can anyone help?

Thanx...

Michael R. Dow
--


From jharris@crosslink.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:39 EST 1997
Article: 183836 of rec.woodworking
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From: jharris@crosslink.net (John C. Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Spanish Cedar Source?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:25:49 GMT
Organization: crosslink.net
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My shop in Annapolis, MD, is producing kayak kits in large quantities.  Many 
of the designs have 1/2" by 1/4" rubrails, which are shipped with the kits in 
96" lengths. 

For various reasons I've been buying Honduran or Phillipine Mahogany over the 
past few years to mill into rubrails.  Obviously I need clear, 
straight-grained stuff to make such thin strips, but the quality of Mahogany 
I've been getting from many different suppliers is dropping fast.  Although 
I'm used to Mahogany's wicked crossgrain, and expect above average wastage in 
milling such skinny strips, I think I ended up with over 50% wastage in the 
last 750bf I bought.  Argh!

A cabinetmaker suggested I try Spanish Cedar, because it has a similar color 
and properties to Honduran M'gany, and is supposedly widely available.  
However, I don't have any experience with this wood.  

Know of any sources in the MidAtlantic region, and some indication of price? 
 Any thoughts on the suitability of Spanish Cedar?

EMail me directly.  Naturally, I've procrastinated in dealing with this and 
found myself pulling the last scabby boards of Honduran M'gany off the shelf 
today.

Cheers,

John C. Harris



From Dave@sheffield.isl.sri.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:40 EST 1997
Article: 183837 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Dave@sheffield.isl.sri.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:36:55 -0700
Organization: SRI Consulting
Lines: 76
Message-ID: <3301FFB3.649D@sheffield.isl.sri.com>
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Bill Pounds wrote:
> 
> Jonathan Waterbury wrote:
> >
> > In article <5dog34$fof@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>,
> > fbmarq@ix.netcom.com(Gerald Marquis) wrote:
> >
> > > If you decide to try friction cutting, make sure your saw is clean.
> > > Friction cutting is almost like torch cutting in that the high speed
> > > blade heats the metal almost to the melting point and then drags it off
> > > in a pretty good shower of sparks.  The build up of hot "filings" can
> > > easily start a fire.
> >
> > I've wondered about this as well: What if one were to put a metal cutting
> > blade on a slowed down a Delta 14" bandsaw? How would that work compared
> > to a dedicated metal-cutting bandsaw? The friction cutting thing appeals
> > to me not in the least.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > Jonathan
> 
> Actually, most folks don't know that Delta builds a metal/wood cutting
> bandsaw. I happen to have one. It is basically identical to the 14"
> closed base saw, except that the lower wheel is driven via an oil bath
> gear box. Even the casting in this area is very similar to the wood
> cutting saw. But the wheels and guides appear to be the same on both.
> The gear box has a push/pull knob that changes the gearing from direct
> drive, for 3000fpm for wood, to gear reduced drive for 400-1000fpm (or
> so), for metal.
> 
> All you need to do is figure out how to get enough reduction with your
> pulleys to slow it down below 1000fpm. Then get yourself a metal cutting
> blade and your in buisness.
> 
> --
> Bill Pounds
> 
P.S.  I looked into the wood/metal cutting saw Bill is referring to
here.  They are virtually identical except for that gearbox, from what I
can tell from Delta's catalog.  They're even on the same page - you have
the woodcutting one and the metal/woodcutting one, and then all the
base, motor, electrical control, etc. options.  The metal/woodcutting
saw's cost was in the realm of $1400 to $1500 at the end of last year,
or about twice the cost of the equivalent 1 hp enclosed stand Delta
woodcutter.  As I wasn't sure if I would need/want the metal cutting, I
contacted the Delta technical support line to see if I would be able to
upgrade (basically add the gearbox and multi-step pulleys), and they
said they do not offer an upgrade.  When asked if the parts would fit a
14" woodcutting saw, the tech. support rep. just reiterated "Sorry, we
don't offer an upgrade."  

For the additional $600 or so, I've concluded that it's a better deal to
buy the woodcutter and then get a seperate metal cutting bandsaw.  For
the work I'm likely to need a metal cutting bandsaw for, something like
the Porter Cable or Milwaukee portable saws will do, and even with their
pipe-leg stands, I'm still dollars ahead.  Another alternative is a
metal cutting saw from Grizzley.  Their roll around saw (from their
metal working catalog) is even cheaper than the PC and Milwaukee
portables, and it can be raised to vertical and install a small table,
but I have no idea of the quality.  

Dave Druckerman

Just my .02 cents 
(yes, alas, with the instantaneous, cheap, global communication of the
Internet, I fear the value of my "wisdom and insight" has indeed
decreased by 2 orders of magnitude)

My opinion, not my employers.  

P.S. - Does anyone else's e-mail package and/or ISP not allow you to
post a message unless your newly added material is more than the old
information that is copied?  I keep getting an error unless I say more
than the sum of the previous posters, forcing me to be more wordy, or
making me snip much more than I would otherwise like to.


From BobHowell@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:41 EST 1997
Article: 183838 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob Howell <BobHowell@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I season black walnut?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:44:35 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183838

Donald T. Wenzel wrote:
> 
> I just had a Black Walnut tree removed, and found someone to rough saw
> the main trunk into planks for me.
> 
> I know I need to set it aside to dry for awhile (about a year?) before
> I can use it and I'd appreciate any tips people might have.
> 
> I have a garage and basement available for storage.  The house has both
> a humidifier and dehumidifier so I have some rough control over humidity.
> 
> Thanks in advance.  I'm looking forward to drooling over several hundred
> board feet of black walnut when it arrives in a week or two.
> 
> Don


I air dried 600 bf from two walnut trees and am still using it. I only
wound up with 300 bf of usable wood  once the sap wood was removed
though. Sticker it in a flat pile out side for 4-5 months with some
cover from the rain, a shed is perfect. I bought corrigated plastic
roofing and put it on top of the pile, over the weights and all of this
in the shade. I bought several books from Highland Hdw and boned up on
seasoning wood. After 9-10  mos you can move it inside for the final
drying in a heated area. If you dry it too fast you will have case
harding and a ruined pile. Good luck.

Bob Howell


From dmacken@cybergate.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:42 EST 1997
Article: 183839 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Mackenzie <dmacken@cybergate.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:Craftsman Radial part required
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:56:27 -0800
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TO the poster of this request:
I am unable to get Email through to you. Please drop me a note.
David M.


From jeff@nea.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:43 EST 1997
Article: 183840 of rec.woodworking
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From: jrg <jeff@nea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fancy dovetail jigs
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:51:10 -0500
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Skip wrote:
> 
> I saw a demo of the JoinTech system a few days ago and am looking for a
> system that could make outlined dovetails, maybe box joints too, and was
> easy enough to use for production. I saw the Leigh jig video too. It
> seems to be production oriented, but can't do the fancy stuff. I'm
> leaning towards the Incra Ultra to put on my Delta Router/Shaper. I've
> got the old plastic Incra as the heart of a homemade plywood fence
> system and it's sturdy, but not incrementally adjustable (easily).
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion on which to use? Comments on the Incra
> Ultra? Anyone do more with the Leigh than the video shows?
> 
> I'm leaning towards the Incra, rather than the JoinTech, because it
> seems to be easier to micro-adjust and be a little cheaper. How are
> these systems on repeatability and production use (100 boxes at a run)?
> 
> TIA,
> Skip
I recently purchased the Incra Ultra 24.  I evaluated both units while
at a local wood workers show.  While it took a little bit of practice, I
have found that the Incra system works very well.  I teamed the Incra
system with a large deck router table (27" x 32") along with a Dewalt
DW625 3hp vs router. I enjoyed working with the Incra I also purchased
their table saw version to go onto my Delta Unisaw.

Jeff


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:43 EST 1997
Article: 183841 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Belt vs Direct Drive, Benchtop vs Free standing?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:42:22 -0600
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Mike:

There are a few easy answers, and a few difficult ones.

First the easy ones:

Direct drive saws suffer from the following, some more than others

* Depth of cut
* Power
* Adjustability (during setup)
* Vibration direct drive + lack of mass
* Poor fence 

The contractor's style saws (belt driven) alleviate those drawbacks, and
further due to the increased outlay, are typically better machined, have
more cast iron (mass). Also there are more after-market options available
to the widely accepted "standard" dimensions of several popular
contractor's saws. You can also expect to be able to mount a full 8"
stacked dado set on a contractor's saw.

The cabinet saws (Unisaw, Powermatic, General, etc), go a step further.
With vastly reduced vibration, smoother & more effiecient power.

Generally - the Jet Contractor's saw is considered the benchmark for a
"quality" budget saw, that will serve you well. 

The tougher questions come then... Does a bench saw cut wood ? Surely, and
with some work can do a very respectable job. Just not as quickly or as
accurately. So what do you do ? Buy a saw you can afford now & learn... or
wait. I'm a member of the first camp.

Be prepared to throw away your bench saw, as you'll have a hard time
recovering more than a few $ from it. A contractor's saw, well maintained
has a resale comparable to boats here in Minnesota.

A weak analogy would be:

Bench Top/Direct Drive	= am/fm portable radio
Contractor's saw	= JVC Mini-stereo w/cd changer
Cabinet saw		= McIntosh rack-mounted


From plathrop@netins.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:44 EST 1997
Article: 183842 of rec.woodworking
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From: "plathrop" <plathrop@netins.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Zero clearance insert for Unisaw
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:54:53 GMT
Organization: netINS, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <01bc19c5$7fe07740$a10c8ea7@princeman>
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> }On 30 Jan 1997 13:02:37 GMT, engsols@aol.com (Engsols) wrote:
> }
> }>I bought a blank insert for my Unisaw.  I intended to fit the blank to
the
> }>saw while the blade was lowered, then raise the blade through the blank
to
> }>create the zero clearance insert.
> }>
> }>The 10" blade does not drop low enough to insert the blank. 
Suggestions?



Might I suggest cutting the slot with an 8 in or similar blade?  This
should cut it enough of the insert, then put in the blade that you want to
use and raise the blade to the position you need.

Paul 


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:45 EST 1997
Article: 183843 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: homemade router table
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:57:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 11
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April, 1995 issue #44 of American Woodworker has their great router table
plans.  I ordered the video from the new Yankee Workshop to build Norm's
router table, which was based on the one in AW #44.

Yesirree <yesirree@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970207025701.VAA04908@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I am looking for suggestions on making a homemade router table. If anyone
> can cut and paste any they know of please mail to yesirree@aol.com . I
> dont want to make anyone type a lot but if you can help me without too
> much trouble you have my thanks in advance.
> 


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:46 EST 1997
Article: 183844 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Education help...
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:52:31 GMT
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Look at the design winners in "American Woodworker" magazine, it usually
tells where they go to "school".
> 


From ffaubert@worldchat.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:47 EST 1997
Article: 183845 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Faubert <ffaubert@worldchat.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Slipage!
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:13:37 -0800
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Brad R Tallis wrote:
> 
> Brad R Tallis (btallis@cv.hp.com) wrote:
> 
> : Hello All-
> 
> : I ran into a problem this weekend that really has me bothered.
> : I was routing cherry planks and only making cuts about 1/8"
> : deep.  As I would rout, the depth adjust would slip and allow
> : the bit to sink into the wood at least 1/16".  And the depth
> : adjust lock was on!  To me, this seems dangerous.  Plus it
> : almost ruined an expensive piece of cherry (it was the ONE
> : piece I had picked out for the headboard that was _absolutely_
> : beautiful!)
> 
> : I've had the router for over a year with probably about 30-40
> : hours of use.  I dought it is still under warranty.  What
> : should I do?  Take it apart and hope to see whats wrong?
> 
> : Also, could you recommend a good router for the "general"
> : hobbist?
> 
> : Thanks for your help-
> : Brad
> 
> I forgot to include some info.
> 
> It's a Ryobi (not sure of the HP, but it's got a MOTOR!),
> I was using a 3/4" steel bit, and my feedrate was slow.
> (It took me 4 hours to make 17 .25" deep grooves in the
> cherry...)
> 
> Brad
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --                                                                         --
> --  Brad Tallis                                 btallis@hpcvsgen.cv.hp.com --
> --  Information Technology Specialist                                      --
> --  Hewlett-Packard, Inkjet Business Unit                                  --
> --  Corvallis, OR                                                          --
> --                                                                         --
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just a thought, is the collet and bit clean and tight?

Frank


From riccardo@snet.net Sat Feb 15 11:45:48 EST 1997
Article: 183846 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:15:44 GMT
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ddurbin@fn5.freenet.tlh.fl.us (Dick Durbin) wrote:
>Tim Gillespie (tgillesp@mail.tds.net) wrote:
>: LEE WARD wrote:
>
>: Let's see. Bu my count they were (in tentative chronological order):
>
>: 	Peggy Knapp
>: 	Suzanne Eglie(sp)
>: 	Joanne Liebler
>: 	Robin Hartle
>
>I understand there is going to be a new mini-series on PBS: "The Many
>Wives of Dean Johnson."                fe
>-- 
>Dick Durbin       * "Who is out there to inspire us with a
>Tallahassee, FL   * personal example of virtue and self 
>                  * sacrifice in the name of a higher good?"
>                                             - CALVIN
>

Joanne Liebler, left the show to try her hand in some Hollywood stuff. I 
thought that she was the best of them. Dean is happily married - or at 
least married - but not to any of the above.  cmr


















From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:49 EST 1997
Article: 183847 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodtek tools-good or bad?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 04:02:11 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Make sure you check out the Grizzly before you buy anything, they make
great products.  You can get a free catalog by calling 800-541-5537

dzr2 <dzr2@twave.net> wrote in article
<01bc14ae$2c3272e0$e9e464ce@chris>...
> I am in search for a good 6" floor jointer at an economical price and am
> compelled to buy a Woodtek due to the great price.  Is there anyone who
has
> purchased any Woodtek products, and better yet, jointers?
> 
> Very curious.
> 
> 


From mike2m@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:49 EST 1997
Article: 183848 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike2m@pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 04:16:23 GMT
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hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) wrote:

>This past summer, UPS guy comes by with a piece of paper and asks if we
>ever received that item. I didn't know anything about it, so I ask wifey
>(it was hers) and she didn't remember getting the package (just some
>curtains). He asks me to sign. I sign. Now, UPS will no longer drop
>packages at my door unless I sign for it which is a major drag. We've
>never had a package stolen or waylaid before so I suspect UPS screwed up
>somewhere. I say, "No problem, we'll take the risk. Just drop the
>packages.". They say "No can do. We had to pay for the loss. There's
>nothing you can sign or do to change that". Curious, we never did get the
>curtains so how did UPS have to pay for it? Even more curious is that
>we've never even filed for a loss.

>Why is this note in rec.ww? Because I suspect lots of you get UPS
>deliveries from mail orders and if you ever sign that UPS paper that says
>you didn't get a package, then you're flagged for life. If you didn't get
>something and it's only a few dollars (like in my case), it's better to
>simply forget about it and eat the loss.

>Weasel (tm)

>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"

I prefer to have them come in requiring a signature so they call me at
work and I can stop on my way home from work. Better than missing
package.
Mike



From mike2m@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:50 EST 1997
Article: 183849 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike2m@pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 04:19:41 GMT
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Scott Post <spost@NETUSA1.NET> wrote:

>> Michael R. Dow wrote:
>>
>> Ok, so I'm a newbie (as you may have seen from other posts...)  Should I
>> get the ShopNotes backissues for $80?

>It depends on what you want to do.  I dropped my ShopNotes subscription
>after the first year because the stuff they built bordered on the
>ridiculous.  They seemed to go to extraordinary effort to come up with
>unnecessary jigs and fixtures.  I like to build furniture - not jigs.

>I prefer Woodsmith's approach.  They give plans for what are usually nice
>looking pieces, then show how to build a jig or two that directly apply
>to the project.

>--
>Scott Post   spost@netusa1.net
>http://www.netusa1.net/~spost
In Shopnotes behalf as a basic beginner I find the tip section
helpful. I am lucky I guess living in the home city for both
publications (Des Moines) and the local Woodsmith store stocks back
issues of both.
Mike



From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:51 EST 1997
Article: 183850 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
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Roydan Tomlinson wrote:
> ydan Tomlinson wrote:
> why is my reply duplicating letterswZanother testreply duplicating letterswZ


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:52 EST 1997
Article: 183851 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:25:44 -0700
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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this is one line

next linene line


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:53 EST 1997
Article: 183852 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:13:15 -0700
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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Steve Rehrauer wrote:
> eve Rehrauer wrote:
> In article <32FF974E.4B68@worldnet.att.net> Drew Diaz <DDEdge@worldnet.att.net> writes:tt.net> Drew 
> >Hoping I'm doing this correctly, am a neophyte  to this medium.oing this correctly, am a neophyte  
> >this medium.oing this correctly, am a neophyte  
> >basically, I'll never have the time to build e  the workbench I want & amhave the time to build e  
> >in the market for a ready made unit.to build e  
> >in the market for a ready made unit.to build e  
> >Any suggestions???a ready made unit.to build e  
> >Any suggestions???a ready made unit.to build e  Well I decided that being taller than the average  
woodworker that I bought the top and then built e  
the base to match the benchtop height that was  e  
right for me.                                   e  

The angled dogs were what put me off doing my own  
bench because I would have to build a jig for that 
and I prefer to work on my projects and not on hat 
shop tools/jigs.                               hat 


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:54 EST 1997
Article: 183853 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:21:15 -0700
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Roydan Tomlinson wrote:
> ydan Tomlinson wrote:
> Roydan Tomlinson wrote:ď
> > ydan Tomlinson wrote:ď
> > why is my reply duplicating letterswZanother testreply duplicating letterswZmy reply duplicating letterswZanother testreply duplicating 
try againmy reply duplicating letterswZanother testreply duplicating


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:55 EST 1997
Article: 183854 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:14:32 -0700
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Roydan Tomlinson wrote:
> ydan Tomlinson wrote:sorry my reply software is screwed up.


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:56 EST 1997
Article: 183855 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: test my reply software
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:18:17 -0700
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why is my reply duplicating letterswZ


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:57 EST 1997
Article: 183856 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:23:50 -0700
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another test`

see if this works


From roydan_tomlinson@hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:45:58 EST 1997
Article: 183857 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roydan Tomlinson <roydan_tomlinson@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:24:27 -0700
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Roydan Tomlinson wrote:
> ydan Tomlinson wrote:
> why is my reply duplicating letters"

another replyeply duplicating letters"


From maltby@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:45:59 EST 1997
Article: 183858 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ward C. Maltby" <maltby@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw or Scroll Saw?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:04:22 -0800
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Jersey Bob wrote:
> 
> I have been making odds and ends of projects with a Radial Saw, 11/2
> HP router and table, drills, circular saw and jig saw. Since I only
> deal with 4x8 occasionaly, I do not want to steal space for table saw
> stuff.
> However, there are limits to precision work with hardwood and soft
> with my present shop.. Any reccomendation on what the next tool should
> be?
> Bob S, Wayne NJ

The first large tool I bought was an Excalibur scroll saw. At that time 
I was borrowing a chop saw and a table saw from my brother. I've really 
enjoyed that scroll saw, making names, plaques etc. I never get 
tired of it. Of any one tool it's probably the most fun. I would 
certainly recommend it. 

Keep in mind that the way a good scroll saw operates it leaves very 
little need for sanding. While a band saw requires quite a bit of 
sanding. On the other hand I've never tried to resaw lunber on a scroll 
saw. 

My 2 cents. Ward.


From rityler@newshost.li.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:00 EST 1997
Article: 183859 of rec.woodworking
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From: rityler@newshost.li.net (Tyler)
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Subject: Locking Box?
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From cdub@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:01 EST 1997
Article: 183860 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:11:05 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Prepping acrylic for gluing
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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How best to prepare lucite (Lucite-L) surfaces for solvent cementing?  And
how do I keep the ^$@#@!!! solvent (methyl chloride?) from boiling up out
of the applicator needle and splattering all over my nice pristine
acrylic?

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From stdmaksu@cicero.spc.uchicago.edu Sat Feb 15 11:46:02 EST 1997
Article: 183861 of rec.woodworking
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From: stdmaksu@cicero.spc.uchicago.edu (Dong-il Kim)
Subject: Q on Michael Fortune workbench
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Has anyone build a Michael Fortune type workbench which has two rows of 
dogholes and one tail vise so that it holds a large panel with triangular
grips?  Does it work well?  Any experience of too much side pressure from 
a benchdog in the second row on the tail vise?

Dongil.



From gege@series2000.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:03 EST 1997
Article: 183862 of rec.woodworking
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From: "George Geddes" <gege@series2000.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: 13 Feb 1997 06:41:40 GMT
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12:00 PM and 7:30 PM (EST) Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 
Enjoy, the reruns - George

Big Snip

> > I have been looking for the NYWS on HGTV,but our local CATV
>   has not aired any shows that I am aware of. What day and time
>   do you guys get Norm's NYWS/HGTV?
> 
>   ROSCOE 
> 
> 


From camchase@gxl.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:04 EST 1997
Article: 183863 of rec.woodworking
From: camchase <camchase@gxl.com>
Organization: Woodtech Information Systems, Inc.
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Subject: Looking for plans for Queen Anne style furn.
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I can't seem to find any plans, anywhere, for traditional style, Queen 
Anne cherry furniture.  Would also like plans for same style boxes (i.e. 
writing boxes, jewelery boxes, humidor and catch-all boxes).  Any help in 
this area appreciated. Also,I am having trouble bringing up Gary Davis' 
page of plans (the oak.gary.etc.)  Anyone else having problems or is it 
just me?

Thanks in advance.  Please e-mail.

Camchase

Camaghey Chase Farm
Reg. Belgian Horses
Proudly standing "Leaskdale Conscent"



From danmar*@igs.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:05 EST 1997
Article: 183864 of rec.woodworking
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From: danmar*@igs.net (daniel marois)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:08:50 -0500
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In article <32F9C2C4.6B07@california.com>, stanr@california.com 
says...

> If you think the Freud or Ryobi is better, than why didn't you say so?

Because I don't. I happen to think the Elu/DeWalt is the best value. I 
wouldn't pay C$800 for the Lamello Top 10, but I've read and heard 
that's it's the best available. 

-- 
Dan
<remove asterisk when replying via e-mail>


From danmar*@igs.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:06 EST 1997
Article: 183865 of rec.woodworking
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From: danmar*@igs.net (daniel marois)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:08:39 -0500
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In article <haubert.102.00138663@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org says...

> >which you don't know. If you are thinking of the Lamello Top 10 you 
> >are without a doubt a member of a very small group who don't believe 
> >it's the best joiner on the market. Of course for the price it should 
> >be.
> 
> Well, that's questionable.  The Lamello hasn't improved like the others, so 
> the advantage of it has dwindled down to practically nothing.  It IS 
> underpowered.  The Dewalt is a MUCH better buy.

Are we talking about the same model? Up here there is a difference of 
hundreds of dollars between the Top 10 and the DeWalt. You guys seem 
to be saying that there is only a few dollars difference.

Anyway, to paraphrase Jerry Pournelle, the DeWalt is plenty good 
enough.

-- 
Dan
<remove asterisk when replying via e-mail>
- The mediocre are always at their best.
- A perfectionist is one who takes great pains
  and gives them to others.


From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:06 EST 1997
Article: 183866 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:56:21 -0700
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183866

David Carson wrote:
> 
> I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
> mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
> Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
> screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
> tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.
> 
> In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
> locktite yet, but will.
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Kit

Fundamental questions - 

a)  how well does the pulley mate with the shaft?  Is there a lot of
play when the set screw is loose?  If so, this needs to be fixed first
or you'll be continually having this problem and may even damage the key
(okay, they're replaceable) or the shaft (big bummer - replace the motor
or tool depending on which end of the belt the problem is on)  If the
shaft measures okay to a standard diameter (1/2", 5/8", 3/4", etc.
probably +.000/-.001) but the fit is loose, get a good new cast iron,
machined pulley.  

If I'm remembering correctly, a company named Browning makes cast iron
pulleys that use a collet-like arrangement that grips the whole shaft
instead of the set screw.  I'm not sure if I have the manufacturers name
right.  Go to a local industrial supplier and tell them what you're
looking for.  These distributors typically get categorized in the Yellow
Pages as sellers of hydraulic hoses & pumps, belting, motors, chains,
gear reducers, and the likes.  When I was making a log splitter some
years back, I got a 10" double row cast iron pulley using this collet
like arrangement for gearing down the pump (had a 15 hp pump that I
wanted to drive with a 5 hp motor).  The collet arrangement gives a
couple of advantages - all of the torque isn't taken by the shear force
on the key, eliminating your loosening problem, and there are collets
for many different sized shafts so that the distributor can easily have
all sizes in stock (don't have to worry about having the right
combination of pulley and shaft size, you select each seperately). 
Seeing you're at RPI, you're in luck as there are a lot of good
industrial supply companies in the Albany-Troy area.  I got mine from an
industrial distributor in Poughkeepsie when I lived there.  Out here in
CA, they're fewer and farther between. 

b)  Is there a significant amount of vibration / imbalance that is
creating a pounding on the key and setscrew?  This will loosen the screw
for sure.  This may also be solved by replacing the pulley as described
above.  (As you may be able to tell, I was trained as a mechanical
engineer at RPI, and I hate designs that use a single set screw to
secure a pulley.)

c)  Are the pulleys coplaner?  If not, then the belt tension will have a
vector acting along the axis of the shaft, trying to pulley off of, or
further on to, the shaft.  Have to fix that or the problem will keep
coming back.  

Options I can think of if you are having none of the above mentioned
problems:

1)  Use allen screw that has the type of tip that digs into the key (if
it doesn't have one already)
2)  Drill and retap for larger allen screw (usually pretty easy, use the
machine shop in the basement of the Johnson Engineering Center if its
still there - I'm an alumnus, class of 1983)
3)  Use a locking style allen screw (nylon insert in the side).  I seem
to remember that these exist in one of my industrial supply catalogs.  
4)  Use allen screw with nylon tip which should lock better onto the
key  (not so sure how well this one would work).  
5)  Lastly, if the problem is just a matter of the screw loosening due
to loose threads, then the Loctite-type solution should work.  

Enough rambling, pontificating, etc.  

Dave Druckerman


From georgii1@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:07 EST 1997
Article: 183867 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue or Screws for outdoors project?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 05:57:40 GMT
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I use deck screws and I've have used glue on a number of project - the
newer water resistant glues.  One table, about 5 years old, has been
outside all year long with no problems yet.

If I could only find a natual looking finish that holds up for a few years
years longer - I'd have it made.

Jolyn


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:46:08 EST 1997
Article: 183868 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:29:08 GMT
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Well, thanks for the replies. As far as the band saw goes, I don't own 
one, so that's out. Now for the sandpaper -- I need both halves, and 
I surely can't afford two dowels! Think I'll just go out and buy some 
half rounds if I can talk my wife out of some money. Thanks again, this 
is a good group.

Ed



From len@epix.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:09 EST 1997
Article: 183869 of rec.woodworking
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From: len <len@epix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathes
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 01:21:46 -0500
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Hi:

With all due respect to those who feel this kind of inquiry is 
inappropriate for this newsgroup, I disagree:  I've gotten some valuable 
tips, and I've occasionally tried to provide same.  So--I would 
appreciate advice on lathes.  I want to do both outboard and inboard 
turning, up to ab. 3', and I like solid, well-made machines.  Thanks for 
your help.

Len


From len@epix.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:10 EST 1997
Article: 183870 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathes
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Hi:

With all due respect to those who feel this kind of inquiry is 
inappropriate for this newsgroup, I disagree:  I've gotten some valuable 
tips, and I've occasionally tried to provide same.  So--I would 
appreciate advice on lathes.  I want to do both outboard and inboard 
turning, up to ab. 3', and I like solid, well-made machines.  Thanks for 
your help.

Len


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:46:11 EST 1997
Article: 183871 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Practicing Safety
Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:39:23 GMT
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Well, I got some replies on my question about ripping dowels on a table 
saw. It definitely isn't worth the risk without some sort of jig that 
would allow it to be done safely. I was with my son when he cut his 
finger almost completely off while using a skill saw last year. It looked 
like hamburger and they amputated it in the hospital. Believe me, it is a 
sight I don't want to see again. Nothing can replace practicing safety in 
the shop. Thanks again, and keep all of your fingers.

Ed



From len@epix.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:12 EST 1997
Article: 183872 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathes
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Hi:

With all due respect to those who feel this kind of inquiry is 
inappropriate for this newsgroup, I disagree:  I've gotten some valuable 
tips, and I've occasionally tried to provide same.  So--I would 
appreciate advice on lathes.  I want to do both outboard and inboard 
turning, up to ab. 3', and I like solid, well-made machines.  Thanks for 
your help.

Len



From plathrop@netins.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:13 EST 1997
Article: 183873 of rec.woodworking
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From: "plathrop" <plathrop@netins.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 06:44:24 GMT
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David Roseman <droseman@erols.com> wrote in article
<3302848e.6288329@news.erols.com>...
> On 12 Feb 1997 14:48:38 GMT, Ed Ladendorf <eladendo> wrote:
> >
> >Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do
I 
> >do it without getting hurt?
> 
> I've never done this, and the hair on the back of my neck stood up
> when I read your post.  But, here's a wild idea I'd be willing to try
> if this has to be done

snipe

.  If you try this and
> it works, let us know.  Actually, let us know if it doesn't work,
> also. :-). dcr


Why not take a board 3/4 think 5 inches wide 48 inches long, round the
edges on one side and then rip off as much of the round you need.  This
will be safer and you will get the full 180 degrees of the radius.  You
could do this until you feel uncomforable with the board.
 
Paul
 


From pkane@pobox.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:14 EST 1997
Article: 183874 of rec.woodworking
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From: pkane@pobox.com (Patrick R. Kane)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 06:50:21 GMT
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mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening) wrote:

>I have never liked the policy of them just leaving things on my porch
>without someone being home.  Now that I know I can have this changed
>I'll have to call them up.

Good luck. I had requested on more than one occasion that they not
leave packages on our door step. Sooner or later they always reverted
back to drop and run.

I'll assume everyone has a horror story about UPS. Mine was when I got
married. We had requested that packages not be left on the "doorstep."
Our doorstep was an open second floor balcony which was very visible
to all passerbys on the street. While on our two week honeymoon, they
left many packages that were wedding gifts. Fortunately, a neighbor
picked them up when they saw 'em. Unfortunately, not before someone
else helped themselves to one (confirmed) or more. We'll never know.
I'm sure someone is out there thinking how rude we were for never
acknowledging their wedding gift.

Just the other day, UPS left on the doorstep my new Panasonic 12V
Predator drill (which I like very much), and the box was clearly
marked "SIGNATURE REQUIRED."

Regards,
	Pat Kane <pkane@pobox.com>



From DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net Sat Feb 15 11:46:15 EST 1997
Article: 183875 of rec.woodworking
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From: DNPIBEL <DNPIBEL@Prodigy.Net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Payback Time (Handyman's Club Comes Through)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:07:58 -0800
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Wooddon asked for quilt hanger plans. There is a picture of a pretty 
handsome one in the letters to the editor section of the Nov/Dec issue of 
"American How-To" (the "Official Publication of the Handyman's Club of 
America"), the plans for which appeared in the July/August edition, which 
I do not have.

For those (including me) who have been dissing the H-Club, this may 
serve as some sort of lesson on getting too smart too fast. But probably 
not.

For those cynics and doubters, I am in no way associated with 
Handypeople's Club, and if you'd read my prior post about same, you 
wouldn't even be thinking those dark conspiratorial thoughts.

Doug


From paulinmo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:16 EST 1997
Article: 183876 of rec.woodworking
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From: paulinmo@aol.com (Paul in MO)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How fancy a table saw?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 07:14:40 GMT
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	I am trying to decide just how nice of a table saw to buy.. I am a
newcomer to the hobby, but expect to get into it deep, if history is any
indication. Also, I run towards the perfectionist (read, anal
retnentive?), for what it's worth. 
	Now, reading some posts here, one would get the impression that
anything less than a $2000 saw won't really be satisfactory in the long
run for the serious hobbyist, who wants to make nice cabinetry, etc. Do
you agree? Why?
	I am looking at the Jet JWTS-10PF for about $550. It looks well
made (certainly a nicer fence than the Delta 34-670), and a good saw for
the money. I can also get it with the 50 inch extension for $720 (at
Lowe's). How useful do you find the extended fence, or do you consider it
a nice but not necessary luxury?
	I am trying to sink enough money in this saw so that I won't
regret my purchase in future years, but at the same time not go overboard
$$$$!. Thanks for any advice.


From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:17 EST 1997
Article: 183877 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels? Yes, with an easy to make jig
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:37:55 +0000
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Steven Cavanaugh wrote:
> 
> > > Hi Gang
> > >
> > > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
> >> do I do it without getting hurt?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Ed
> 
> Why not use a band saw.  Set two rip fences, each 3/8 inch from the blade.
> Set the height adjustment to less then 1/8 inch above the dowel and run it through.

Boy, I love jig challenges.  At first I was like the other respondents
thinking blood, severed fingers, etc.  But after a little noodling, I
believe that this can be done very safely, and with very little work
making the jig.  

What you basically need to do is drill a 3/4" diameter hole through the
center of a 4 by 4 lengthwise and clamp this to your fence centered on
the blade front to back.  (A 3 by 3 would be ideal, 2 by 2 probably too
small) The 4 by 4 should be about 1 inch longer than the length of blade
that is exposed when the blade height is 2-1/4"  (This is an easy
trigonometry problem, but...you can also just get out your tape
measure!)  The dowel needs to be able to slip though the 3/4" hole
easily so, depending on the exact diameter of the dowel, you'll need to
adjust the size of the hole accordingly.  Anyways, lower the blade all
the way down, slide the fence over until the blade is exactly centered
on the 3/4" hole, start the saw and raise the blade until it is all the
way through the 3/4" hole.  Voila - now you have a 3/4" diameter guide
with a spinning saw blade in it!  And the blade is completely covered. 
Just pass the dowel through.  

Note that centering the hole, end to end, on the 4 by 4 is critical
here.  If you are unable, instead of a solid piece like a 4 by 4, make a
long skinny suare tube out of what ever materials you have available. 
3/4" common would be great.  Make a box that is 10 inches long, with the
inside of the tube 3/4 by 3/4 square.  Substitute this square tube
wherever the 4 by 4 is referenced above.  Use glue, not nails or screws
to save your saw blade!

If rotation of the dowel appears to be a problem, make a splitter by
lowering the blade to about 3/4", unclamp the block and turn it on its
end.  Keep the same edge of the board against the fence (and don't
unlock the fence, of course)  Cut a kerf in the end.  Now comes the
tough part - making the splitter.  You'll need to make a board 3-1/2"
long, 3/4" wide, and the width of the kerf thick (you get the picture,
about 1/8" thick).  Maybe best done with a dovetail or back saw.  Once
you make this board, take a rasp or file and make the center of the
board less thick than the kerf so that the two halves of the dowel will
be able to pass by the splitter without wedging in the hole.  You may
also want to taper the front edge of this thinned section to assure that
it enters the kerf easily.  Glue this "splitter" in place on the end of
the 4 by 4 and you're ready to go into production.  

Now, if you have a bandsaw with a tilting table, I think you only need
one rip fence to do this.  Clamp a board to the rip fence making sure
that the dowel can pass against the board, under the clamp.  Tilt the
table to 45 degrees and bring the rip fence so that the bandsaw blade
bisects the 45 degree angle, then push away.  If twisting is a problem,
set up something equivalent to the splitter described above.  

Sorry for the long winded, probably overly detailed response for what is
basically a board with a hole in it lengthwise, and the saw kerf passing
lengthwise through the hole.  

Dave Druckerman


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:18 EST 1997
Article: 183878 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:34:27 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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daniel marois wrote:
> 
> In article <32F9C2C4.6B07@california.com>, stanr@california.com
> says...
> 
> > If you think the Freud or Ryobi is better, than why didn't you say so?
> 
> Because I don't. I happen to think the Elu/DeWalt is the best value. I
> wouldn't pay C$800 for the Lamello Top 10, but I've read and heard
> that's it's the best available.
> 
> --
> Dan
> <remove asterisk when replying via e-mail>

Well, I was in CB Tool today and took another look at the two plate
joiners, having this discussion on my mind. Both are good tools, but the
DeWalt has the better fence and better motor, I believe. The Lamello-10
has a better graduated scale, a better finish on its' fence, but no
holding pins (rounded bumpers instead). But even for a few hundred
dollars more for the Lamello, I still believe the DeWalt to be the
better tool, again just my humble opinion. :)

The 'tool guy' at the store said Shop Notes reviewed pj's a while ago
and they came to the same conclusion, but I havn't read the article.
Anyway, my stubborn opinion being what it is, even if they were the same
costwise, I would probably choose the DeWalt.

Stan


From gjcservices@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:19 EST 1997
Article: 183879 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gary Cervenka <gjcservices@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Spar Varnish on my good desk!
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:47:56 -0800
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My wife has put spar varnish on my good desk for my valintines present.
I dont want to re-strip it It will break her heart. What can i do?
She used Mc Closkey's Man-o-War Spar Varnish .
I can't find a web site for them or I would ask someone there...HELP!!!


From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:20 EST 1997
Article: 183880 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench top within .001"????
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:11:23 +0000
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Dear Weasel,

I'm pretty sure that your comments are tongue-in-cheek as there is no
way that this person can measure that accurately.  To do so would
require either a very high grade large granite surface plate, or a large
Cordax (sp?) machine adn a very well temperature and humidity controlled
environment.  But you know all this.  Kind of goes with the recent
thread about using calipers too much.

For the fun of it, I did some checking to see what it would have
required to validate his assertion.    An inspection grade Starrett
surface plate would suffice here.  In the 36 by 60 inch size (10"
thick), it is flat to .0004".  Only weighs 2065 pounds and costs $2200. 
I'm sure Mr. Kirby has one of these.  Don't we all.  They do make
wonderful workbench tops.  Note that a toolroom grade surface plate
would barely do as it is only good to .0007.  

Also, thanks for the story below.  I nearly split my sides laughing. 
More than makes up for the Highland Hardware furor (marketing by Chris
Bagby?).  

Dave Druckerman

P.S. I saw some post recently mentioning that you got the 12" Inca TS. 
Do you have the new one with the cast iron top or the older with the
aluminum top?  What has been your impression?  Is it the "Swiss Watch"
that it is reputed to be?  (yes, I know, they're made in France now) 
Are the miter gauge slots U.S. standard T-slots?  The catalog made
specific reference to being U.S. standard on the 10 inch, but no mention
on the 12 inch.  Started me wondering about this.   I think I'll be
ordering my saw in March.  



Hackwood wrote:
> 
> In the latest AMERICAN WOODWORKER (April 97), Ian J. Kirby describes his
> Better Workbench and states that a good bench "has to be flat to within
> .0.01 inch--and .0.001 is not impossible for a sharp jointer plane".
> 
> Sheesh. I can't even buy a good machinist's square that has that degree of
> precision across it's entire length and he can build a 55"x25" hardwood
> benchtop that is that precise?  I'm feeling terribly inadequate. I guess I
> have benchtop envy, or I'm just simply benchtop challenged. I'd be
> delighted if my 8'x3' maple workbench top is .1" flat.  How did he
> possibly measure it?
> 
> He stated that you should never have a shop belt sand the top. On this
> point, I'm going to ignore that advice. He states that it leaves grit
> behind but on the other hand, I don't forsee myself having to resurface
> the top every year. I'm making a butcher block top and I don't anticipate
> much movement (am I naive?)
> 
> Please, if you know the secrets of the universe, could you please reveal
> them to me?
> 
> Weasel (tm)
> 
> p.s. The following has nothing to do with woodworking, but I thought it
> was hilarious and pass it on:
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Once upon a time there lived a man who had a maddening passion for beans.
> He loved them, but they always had a very embarassing and somewhat lively
> reaction on him. Then one day he met a girl & fell in love. When it was
> apparent that they would marry, he thought to himself, "she is such a
> sweet & gentle girl, she will never go for this kind of carrying on." So
> he made the supreme sacrifice...and gave up beans. They were married
> shortly thereafter.
> 
> Some months later his car broke down on the way home from work and,since
> they lived in the country, he called his wife & told her that he would be
> late as he had to walk home. On his way he passed a small cafe and the
> odor of freshly baked beans was overwhelming. Since he still had several
> miles to walk he figured that he would work off any ill effects before he
> got home so he stopped at the cafe.
> 
> Before leaving he had eaten three large orders of baked beans. All the way
> home he "putt-putted" and, after arriving, felt reasonably safe that he
> had "putt-putted" his last. He noted his wife seemed  somewhat agitated
> and excited to see him and exclaimed delightedly, "Darling, I have the
> most wonderful suprise for dinner tonight." Then she blindfolded him and
> led him to his chair at the head of the dining table. He seated himself
> and, just as she was ready to remove the blindfold, the telephone rang.
> She made him vow not to touch the blindfold until she returned, then she
> went to answer the phone. Seizing the opportunity, he shifted his weight
> to one leg and let go! It was not only loud, but as ripe as rotten eggs.
> He took the napkin from his lap & vigorously fanned the air about him.
> Things had just returned to normal when he felt another urge coming on
> him, so he shifted his weight to the other leg and let go again. This was
> a true prize-winner. While keeping his ear on the conversation in the
> hall, he went on like this for ten minutes until he knew the phone
> farewell  indicated the end of his freedom.
> 
> He placed his napkin on his lap and folded his hands on top of it and,
> smiling contentedly to himself, he was the very picture of innocence when
> his wife returned, apologizing for taking so long. She asked if he had
> peeked and he, of course, assured her he had not. At this point she
> removed his blindfold andthere was his surprise . . .
> 
> Twelve dinner guests seated around the table for a "Happy Birthday Party"
> for him.


From bobklein@gulf.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:21 EST 1997
Article: 183881 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 07:53:59 GMT
Organization: Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <3302c4e4.16615188@news.gulf.net>
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Some strippers advertise they will remove stains but some things we
call stains are really dyes.  Dyes and pigment stains are different
and act different.  Depends on the stain and you won't know till you
try.   If you are lucky someone used one of those nasty stain varnish
combinations.  If so most of the color will come off when you strip
it.

There are water wash strippers, which I do not use very often, and
solvent based strippers (methylene chloride, acetone, methanol,
toulene).   The best results I have found to accomplish your task is
stripping then rinising well with lacquer thinner to remove any
residue from the stripper. 

I then apply a solution of sodium hypochlorite.  You can buy this
already mixed at a 5% solution as Clorox, or better, go to a chemical
supply that sells pool supplies and get a stronger solution, say,
15%-20%.  Be careful, clothes and eyes don't like this stuff.

Oxalic acid is used as a bleaching agent also, but it works best on
iron stains and grey weathered wood, not so well for what you are
trying to do.

You have two woods refered to in common terms as tiger maple and tiger
oak.  There is no possibility of confusing the two.

I might say here that if you have never stripped a piece, practice on
something of little consequence first.

Hope this helps.
>
>Tim Taylor wrote:
>
>;I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
>;have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood
>that
>;have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type?
>Unfortunately
>;my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
>;years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
>;remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
>;tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
>;What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   
> 
Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL  32505   USA

bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From bobklein@gulf.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:22 EST 1997
Article: 183882 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood finish care question
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:05:35 GMT
Organization: Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <3302c8da.17629252@news.gulf.net>
References: <32FEA9E5.2623@flash.net> <32FF16AC.34EB@sympatico.ca> <33021553.45243049@news.aracnet.com> <330132D5.67AB@webspan.net>
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The wood doesn't need moisture added nor does the finish need
'feeding'.

Let's think cleaning here.  Some products add a sheen because they
have non drying oils in them (the famous but useless lemon oil
marketing), or silicone.  Both look nice for a while till they grab
all the dust and moisture out of the air.  Endust is a good dusting
aid.

Paste wax is the best care product, some have silicone some do not,
some have solvents that can soften ancient finishes, some do not.  Use
it a couple of times a year or three.  Applying the wax will remove
the old wax, dirt, grime, etc.
 

I have a short list of paste waxes that do not contain silicone but
most manufacturers will be glad to tell you if you ask.  Staples,
Butchers,  Johnson,  to name a few.
==================


 

>Steve Knight wrote:
>> 
>> Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> >lostchld@flash.net wrote:
>> >>
>> 
>> >> The question came up when we aquired a 1936 student desk.  It would seem
>> >> to need moisture in the wood since I'm certain it hasn't seen any
>> >> regular care, and probably quite a bit of abuse.  Any thoughts on the
>> >> subject?
>> 
>> Wood does not need "moisture" added too it. Oil would not do that
>> anyway. This is all hype that furniture polish companies promote to
>> seel almost worthless product. All Polish does is make the piece smell
>> good and make it slippery. So things tend to slide off not dig in. Any
>> oil only works on bare wood or wood with oil and or wax.
> 
Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
2500 North T Street
Pensacola, FL  32505   USA

bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From B.WINGARD@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:24 EST 1997
Article: 183883 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob <B.WINGARD@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 02:21:00 -0500
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Paul in MO wrote:
> 
>         I am trying to decide just how nice of a table saw to buy.. I am a
> newcomer to the hobby, but expect to get into it deep, if history is any
> indication. Also, I run towards the perfectionist (read, anal
> retnentive?), for what it's worth.
>         Now, reading some posts here, one would get the impression that
> anything less than a $2000 saw won't really be satisfactory in the long
> run for the serious hobbyist, who wants to make nice cabinetry, etc. Do
> you agree? Why?
>         I am looking at the Jet JWTS-10PF for about $550. It looks well
> made (certainly a nicer fence than the Delta 34-670), and a good saw for
> the money. I can also get it with the 50 inch extension for $720 (at
> Lowe's). How useful do you find the extended fence, or do you consider it
> a nice but not necessary luxury?
>         I am trying to sink enough money in this saw so that I won't
> regret my purchase in future years, but at the same time not go overboard
> $$$$!. Thanks for any advice.

Consider the Grizzley 1023 . . . it's a very heavy-duty cabinet saw at a
fair price.   Had one for three years, and am completely satisfied with
it.   Call Grizz. & get the name/number of someone in your area who owns
one, & at least go look at it, I think you'll be impressed.   You don't
have to spend $2K to get a good saw.
-- 
						<<< BOB >>>

Q: What do you get when you cross a crooked lawyer with a sleazy
politician ?
A: Chelsea Clinton !


From genesis@global.net.au Sat Feb 15 11:46:24 EST 1997
Article: 183884 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Edwards <genesis@global.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plastic to wood
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 16:21:51 +0800
Organization: Customer of Access One Pty Ltd, Melbourne, Australia
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Luthiers (musical instrument makers) use a great deal of plastic edging
to protect the end grain of the fine timbers they use. 
The recommendations from this industry is to use an acetone based
adhesive, such as model plane glue. I tend to use "balsa" wood glue as
it dries very clear, can be smothered over everything, but will cut back
extremly easily with a scraper. 
It also dries quickly and can be clamped inot position using masking
tape. Have a go...It works for me. JEFF


From coffeereadery@hurricane.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:26 EST 1997
Article: 183885 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank Kenny" <coffeereadery@hurricane.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: looking for wood workers
Date: 13 Feb 1997 04:50:57 GMT
Organization: Hurricane Ridge LLC
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I own a gallery of hand made arts and crafts. I am looking for unique
pieces that I can market.
check out my sight at http://www.hurricane.net/~coffeereadery

Thanks


From rwiegand@i1.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:26 EST 1997
Article: 183886 of rec.woodworking
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From: rwiegand@i1.net (Roger Wiegand)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:10:35 -0600
Organization: not really
Lines: 23
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References: <32FB40EE.4F3F@utaphy.ph.utexas.edu> <rlindber-ya02408000R0702971840420001@207.17.118.2> <32FC20E8.33DB@mail.tds.net>
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In article <32FC20E8.33DB@mail.tds.net>, Tim Gillespie
<tgillesp@mail.tds.net> wrote:

>Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie wrote:
>
>>   Exactly, the only way to reduce traffic would be an intellegent split,
>> and have the newsgroups set-up to not allow cross-posts, period.

>> Ralph
>
>Interesting concept. But is it even possible? 

Robo-moderation to achieve this can be done. 

The experience of rec.crafts.woodturning is instructive, though. With a
well-defined subtopic of woodworking there has been virtually no
inappropriate crossposting

-- 
Thanks,
Roger

mailto:rwiegand@i1.net


From cpeters@i1.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:27 EST 1997
Article: 183887 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Carl Peters, M.D." <cpeters@i1.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:37:51 -0800
Organization: Internet 1st, Inc
Lines: 30
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Ernest Shipley wrote:
> 
> Jerry and Lisa wrote:
> >
> > Hey everyone..   I have a question and I hope that someone can help me out
> > here..   I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for myI have made quite a few of both over the years. One of the best ideas for a
scratching post involves tightly wound heavy rope ascending a 4X4, with the end
secured by a heavy staple (the kind you nail). It lasts much longer than carpet,
and serves its purpose with the felines. For the condos, check out the stores for
ideas. I made one about 6 feet tall - the upper perch with walls is favored
most (recall that cats like high platforms - at least mine do). I placed 3 platforms
on a 4X4 altogether, held securely with 'L' brackets, then carpeted everything.

Carl Peters

++++++

 > kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me to
> > a web page or show a picture of a pattern of a kitty condo or scratching
> > post..  I want it to be a nice place for my cats, something sturdy, but I
> > don't want to spend $200 on something my cats are going to scratch up..
> > Please, if anyone can direct me to a good web page with patterns on it, I'd
> > love that..
> >
> > thank you so much for any help!!
> >
> > --
> > Lisa
> >
> > jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net


From royko@astral.magic.ca Sat Feb 15 11:46:28 EST 1997
Article: 183888 of rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:03:53 -0500
From: royko@astral.magic.ca (paul royko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help w/ Maple Butcher Block Finish
Message-ID: <royko-ya023580001102971403530001@news.magic.ca>
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In article <5daglh$goo@post.gsfc.nasa.gov>, dosgood@proxima.gsfc.nasa.gov
(Dean Osgood) wrote:

> I am putting a maple butcher block counter top into my kitchen.  Theri
> has probably been a discussion of what is the best finish for the
> maple, but I only just found this newgroup.  
> Please E-mail me opinions and reasons as to what is the best finish for
> the maple.  I will be useing this for cutting, chopping, etc.  In
> general I want a finish that after several years I can refinish, and
> will be suitable for contact with food.
> I am considering the following
> Natual Oil Finish: Tung, Vegtable, etc
> Hot Wax: pouring on molten parrifin wax
>  Behlens Salad Bowl Finish. 
> Mineral oil or vaseline.
> I am undecided on any of this and am looking for opinions or sources of
> information
> 
> Please E-mail me directly, as I don't look at newgroups very often
> Thanks
> Dean Osgood
> dosgood@proxima.gsfc.nasa.gov

You're right, this subject has come up quite often. And, I don't remember
there ever having been a consensus reached. So, let me take you through my
thinking.

1. Any film-building finish is out. Cutting boards get...cut...and a
film-building finish (varnish, urethane, etc.) will get hacked up in no
time. Not only will this look bad, but you'll get pieces of urethane,
varnish, etc. in your stew. To me, this also eliminated Behlens, though it
is a great finish for salad bowls.

2. Because of the use and abuse, as well as frequent washing and wiping
(you DO frequently wash and wipe your board, don't you?), an oil finish
will get wiped or washed off the surface pretty quickly. That's the
downside. The upside is that it's fast and easy to apply a new coat. So,
I'd say that mineral oil (food grade...the stuff from the drugstore) would
be O.K. Some folks express concerns about vegetable oils going rancid on
the board. I use my board and wipe it daily and I doubt that a vegetable
oil would be on there long enough to go rancid. But, if you don't have to
do it, then why take the chance?

4. I can't see a downside to wax. My cutting board when I bought it years
ago had a wax finish. Use paraffin if you like (nice and hard) or bees wax
(softer but more aromatic. And, wax is almost as easy as mineral oil to
apply. Just don't use a paste wax or wax polish. These are full of
petroleum solvents that can ruin your day.

5. Vaseline is too gooey and I doubt that it would have any long-lasting
effect on the board.

My 2-cents (Canadian) worth.

-- 
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
http://www.magic.ca/~royko/olddog1.html


From royko@astral.magic.ca Sat Feb 15 11:46:29 EST 1997
Article: 183889 of rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:06:51 -0500
From: royko@astral.magic.ca (paul royko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for Sears Table-Saw Insert?
Message-ID: <royko-ya023580001102971406510001@news.magic.ca>
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In article <32fa06c3.10931612@news.netins.net>, giese012@maroon.tc.umn.edu
(Neil asked-for-it Gieselman) wrote:

> I have one of the older Sears tablesaws (about 6 years old).  On these
> saws, Sears decided to make the table insert thinner than a lot of the
> other companies out there.  Does anyone have suggestions on what
> material to use to make a zero-clearance plate for these machines?
> Bill.
>  (real address is bmackin at netins.net)

Check out the January 1997 issue of American Woodworker. In the Q&A column
at the front of the magazine, they tell you how to make a zero clearance
insert using your existing insert. Looks really easy to do and it also
looks like a really elegant solution.

-- 
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
http://www.magic.ca/~royko/olddog1.html


From royko@astral.magic.ca Sat Feb 15 11:46:30 EST 1997
Article: 183890 of rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:12:27 -0500
From: royko@astral.magic.ca (paul royko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi Routers?
Message-ID: <royko-ya023580001102971412270001@news.magic.ca>
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In article <32F7BCEB.440F@noaddress.com>, sorry@moaddress.com wrote:

> I've just started reading this newsgroup so please excuse me if this has
> recently been covered.
> I'm going to build an electric guitar and need a router to cut the
> cavities for the electronics.  I haven't picked my wood yet but it will
> probably be either ash, alder, or mahagony (sp).  The cavities could be
> as much as one inch deep.  
> First Question - what kind of hp range should I be looking at.  
> Second Question - Are Ryobi Routers any good.  The prices seem almost
> too low compared to the other routers I've seen (Porter Cable, Delta,
> Bosch). Makes me suspicious.  Price is a concern but I don't want to buy
> junk either.
> 
> I'm sure I'll use my router for more than this guitar, would like to
> build some other projects with it but can't see myself pulling it out
> more than a few times a year.  Any suggestions or comments would be
> appreciated.  
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Please post answers to newsgroup or use address below.
> 
> Jim 
> jmartin@novagate.com

I've done the same thing on a oak guitar body using my 3HP Makita. But, you
don't necessarily need that kind of power. Go for a plunge router, even if
you're only going to use it a few times a year. You'll regret it if you
don't. Don't know about Ryobi. I only have their planer (I like it) and
their power carver (I like it too).

You can cut you cavities in more than one step which is the recommended way
to do it anyway. Use a spiral upcut router bit for maximum chip removal.

-- 
paul royko
Toronto, Canada
http://www.magic.ca/~royko/olddog1.html


From admindbi@infobahnos.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:31 EST 1997
Article: 183891 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33008BD7.3CAB@infobahnos.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:10:16 +0000
From: jeff sokalski <admindbi@infobahnos.com>
Organization: Douglas Ball Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183891

Don't know where you are writing from Rod, but try Lee Valley in Canada. 

Call 1-800-267-8761


From bstargle@microsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:32 EST 1997
Article: 183892 of rec.woodworking
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From: "User Name" <bstargle@microsoft.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:04:43 GMT
Organization: db Technology
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request one at http://www.grizzlyimports.com it should arrive within three
days.  They have a great catalog can't say on quality though.

damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote in article
<33008A3A.372@qgraph.com>...
> Awrobinson wrote:
> > 
> > Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
> > tools from Jet or Grizzly? > 
> 


From bstargle@microsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:33 EST 1997
Article: 183893 of rec.woodworking
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From: "User Name" <bstargle@microsoft.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:12:30 GMT
Organization: db Technology
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sawdust will not work to fill your gap, however sanding dust from the same
species will-- when mixed with a alaphetic resin (i.e. elmers wood glue or
titebond etc.)  
>
> 
> Big Problem Guys, 
>     How can I fill a small seam or hole on a wooden box using sawdust?
> Do I use Polyurethane and then sand it?  I'm having a bad time with one
> customer who is patiently waiting for a box.  Can anybody post an idea
> or E-mail me.  Thanks very much.
>                         Ed/WallyO
> >
> >The BEST idea I have ever seen for using sawdust is something I got
> >off of "The Furniture Guys".  They use the sawdust with chemical
> >strippers.  What an idea!  No more wasted rags.  I save all of the
> >sawdust from my Dewalt Bisquit joiner.  I would suggest using
> >something between sawdust and shavings.  Just put the stripper on then
> >scrub it off with hand-fulls of the sawdust.  It absorbs and then you
> >just throw it away after you are done.
> >Good Luck,
> >Earl
> >
> 
> 


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:34 EST 1997
Article: 183894 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans
Message-ID: <8D1E41A.02330127B9.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 17:30:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Have you tried your local library for plans?
                                           Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:35 EST 1997
Article: 183895 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:36:43 -0800
Organization: Johnson's Extremely Strange
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Very well written, Bennett!

I used my Grizzly 1023 for several years without a guard, because the
factory unit was just awful to work with. I was very, very careful but I
knew that there was a good chance that some day, something could go just
a little bit wrong, and I could lose a couple of fingers. I realized
that the worry was interfering with my enjoyment of woodworking.

Two years ago, I finally spent the money and bought an HTC overarm guard
system, and I've been very happy with it. It's not inconvenient at all.
I chose the HTC over the Beismeyer and Delta versions because the HTC
has much better visibility of the blade. If you're not familiar with it,
the HTC has a large flat acrylic block that is suspended "rigidly" above
the blade. A hand crank on top adjusts the height of the guard for the
thickness of the wood, and a release knob swings the whole thing out of
the way to change blades or use a sliding fixture. It's well designed
and sturdy.

Now I know that if an earthquake starts in the middle of a cut (that's
no joke here in Burbank, CA!), or if my dog suddenly barks right behind
me, or whatever else, I'm protected. It would be very hard to get your
hand into the blade with a good overarm guard in place.

The peace of mind was worth the $350 cost.

Bruce Johnson
Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
Burbank, CA 


Bennett Leeds wrote:
> 
> Verne H. Bohlender writes
> > I just lately removed mine as I was having so much difficulty with
> > cutting the boxes I was working on. ...
> 
> Donald H. Littrell writes
> > Is that because flying chips have removed your eyesight?  To operate a
> > power tool without using available protection is fool-hardy.
> 
> Duane Bartlett writes
> > The last time I saw my blade guard was when I saw the
> > saw in the place where I bought it.
> 
> Bill McCurdy writes
> > To advocate the use of power tools without guards is irresponsible.
> 
> In a perfect world, Don and Bill would be right. But, this ain't no
> perfect world, and no guard is perfect. Going without guards like Duane
> and Verne are doing isn't so smart, IMHO, either.
> 
> The truth is that in our real world there is danger in everything. The
> goal as I see it is to manage the risk knowledgably. How important are your
> fingers? If it's absolutely essential that you never cut them, then you
> should not engage in woodworking. If you don't mind losing a few, then run
> power tools without guards or push sticks since you'll work faster and
> easier (until your accident, at any rate).
> 
> Most of us are in the middle. We want to take precautions that are affordable
> AND don't make woodworking much more difficult. Stock guards as they
> come often do make woodworking more difficult.
> 
> But, where price is important, tuning the guards and/or augmenting them
> with shopbuilt guards is worth it as much as tuning your miter gauge bar,
> aligning your rip fence, etc. If you don't think it's possible, check out
> an old video tape "Small Shop Tips with Jim Cummins," where he uses the
> stock guard for many tablesaw cuts.
> 
> Others with more resources might want to look into the aftermarket guards.
> I've got an overarm guard on my saw that, combined with a rising splitter,
> makes most operations (including narrow angled rips, dadoes, etc.) safe
> enough for me. Many others feel this way, too.
> 
> The important thing is to decide where on the continuum from no guards
> to no woodworking you lie, basing your decision on knowledge, not blind
> "guards suck" or "you're stupid if you don't use guards" sayings.
> 
> - Bennett Leeds
> bennett@adobe.com
> 
> Opinions are mine alone.


From isaaclord.w@zetnet.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:46:36 EST 1997
Article: 183896 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matthew Lord <isaaclord.w@zetnet.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: UK WOODWORKERS !!!!
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 07:55:07 GMT
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Need woodworking supplies !!

Visit the Isaac Lord woodworking page ......

http://www.isaaclord.com



From xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:37 EST 1997
Article: 183897 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 03:00:56 -0800
Organization: Johnson's Extremely Strange
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It depends what you mean by "metal cutting". If you mean 1/4" aluminum,
1/8" brass, 10 ga mild steel, etc. you don't have to get fancy. I have a
cheap Enco 14" bottom-of-the-line woodworking bandsaw that I keep set up
just for cutting "sheet metal". I didn't even bother to change the
pulleys. I just set it up at the lowest speed it has, and put on a 1/4"
x 14 good quality metal cutting blade (I like Lennox). It works fine,
although earmuffs are a requirement!

Now, if "metal cutting" means 1" steel plate, that requires serious
horsepower and big stiff frame, well beyond most woodworking bandsaws.

BTW, I have a 14" Bridgewood (from Wilke Machinery) wood/metal bandsaw
with the quick change gearbox like on the Delta. It's a good sturdy saw
that's served me well for 15 years. The gearbox works fine, but I found
that I really never used the feature. I bought the Enco because I got
sick of changing blades back and forth!

Bruce Johnson
Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
Burbank, CA




> 
> I agree with Bill.  To cut metal, or anything, you need to move the
> correct blade through the table at the correct speed.  To do true
> contour sawing in low carbon steel (1010 to 1030) you need to saw at a
> speed that allows any individual tooth to cut a chip of metal.
> Generaly, this would be in the 150 fpm range for 1/4" and up, 200 to
> 250 down to 1/8", up to 350 fpm for 1/16", and 400 or so for 1/32".
> Normally, in the thickness examples given above, you would use a 10
> tooth above 1/4, and then a 14 tooth, an 18, 24, and 32 tooth blade as
> you reduce in thickness.  Whenever possible, choose a blade that allows
> you to have AT LEAST 2 or 3 teeth within the material thickness as you
> cut.  If this is not possible, increase the speed a little so that a
> tooth does not catch on the edge of the metal.
> 
> When cutting softer metals like aluminum and brass, you can almost go
> to wood cutting speeds and blade pitch.  Except for the rule of thumb
> to keep 2 or 3 teeth within the material.  Cut most stainless steels
> the same as carbon steels, you'll just move slower.
> 
> One final word.  Make sure there is no tooth protuding at the weld.
> This can cause blade breakage in any material but in metal it can be
> especially bad.  If that tooth breaks off and gets embedded in the
> material you are cutting, you can wipe out the whole blade in seconds.
> The vast majority of contour sawing in metal is done dry.  Sometimes
> some beeswax is helpful in gummy metal like soft aluminum to keep the
> material from building up in the gullet.  Sorry I've been so long
> winded.  Good luck.
> 
> Gerry Marquis
> Elyria, Ohio


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:38 EST 1997
Article: 183898 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish on my good desk!
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 06:35:33 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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Gary Cervenka wrote:
> 
> My wife has put spar varnish on my good desk for my valintines present.
> I dont want to re-strip it It will break her heart. What can i do?
> She used Mc Closkey's Man-o-War Spar Varnish .
> I can't find a web site for them or I would ask someone there...HELP!!!

Leave it on and use it. When it has received a sufficient amount of
abuse (call it wear and tear), sand it way down and coat it with the
varnish of your choice.

If you try to build a more brittle finish (spar varnish is tough, yet
softer than a regular varnish) which does nat scrach so easily, it will
behave (possibly) like ice over mud. It will not be a very durable
finish. Also, the expansion rates of the 2 finishes will be different,
and that causes its own cracking.
-- 
Daniel


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:46:39 EST 1997
Article: 183899 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:33:55 +1100
Organization: RTA
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In article <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au>, Rick 
White says...

> In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.
> 
> In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in, what 
> appears to me, to be an indefinable code.
> 
> Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an article 
> about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4 
> through 16/4.
> 
> What is 4/4 and 16/4 ?  What does this mean?
> 
> If the /4 stands for 1/4", why don't you guys just say that 4/4 is 1"?
> It's got me puzzled!
> 
> Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know about. 
> ;-)
> 
> (If you email me directly, please remove the * character from the given 
> address.)
> 
-- 
>From  the email I've received and from within the articles posted to this 
thread 
resulting from my original question, I get the feeling that there are 
some, as-yet, unhealed wounds amongst you.

It's obvious to me from your various responses that the War of 
Independence is *not* over, although the history books would have us 
believe that that occurred in 1776, and the Civil War betwitxt yankees 
and confederates/rebs has been in progress since 1860 and no abatement in 
the hostilities looks likely.  Rub out the bit that says it ended in 
1865. :-)

I had it in mind to ask another question about one of your more quaint 
American measuring systems for wood, but I'm having second thoughts now 
... I don't think it's worth it for your sake.

Thanks again for your responses ... I feel much more enlightened than 
before.

Regards, Rick

To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:40 EST 1997
Article: 183900 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 03:33:44 -0800
Organization: Johnson's Extremely Strange
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I also recommend staying away from AMT. I bought a bunch of carving
tools from them a few years ago, not expecting much, and they were such
poor quality that they were absolutely useless. The actual tools didn't
come close to the appearance of the pictures in the catalog. I sent them
all back. One exception that I kept was their brass spokeshave, which is
really quite nice. Judging by the price of their power tools, I wouldn't
touch them. These are Chinese imports of the lowest quality.

On oscillating spindle sanders, I bought a Ryobi at Home Depot, thinking
it would do some light stuff until I got around to buying a REAL one. To
my surprise, I've beaten the hell out it for more than two years now,
doing 1 1/4" rock maple, etc., and it's still going! It doesn't have a
whole lot of power, and it sounds like a shop-vac, but it has repeatedly
gotten the job done for me. I just ordered the big Grizzly spindle
sander, but I'll probably keep the little Ryobi for detail work. It's a
good value.

Bruce Johnson
Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
Burbank, CA 


StanR wrote:
> 
> damian drewek wrote:
> >
> > Anyone have experience with AMT tools?  Any recommendations for an
> > oscillating drum sander for <$200??  The Ryobi seems tempting, but the
> > Universal motor scares me (Mainly due to noise.  How about the Delta?
> >
> > Thnx
> > Damian
> 
> Stay away from AMT. My experience with their stuff has been very bad.
> 
> Stan


From jluby@whatnot.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:46:40 EST 1997
Article: 183901 of rec.woodworking
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From: jluby@whatnot.co.uk (John Luby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: how to square a try square
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:07:52 GMT
Organization: 
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On Wed, 12 Feb 97 21:16:37 GMT, echi@cisco.com (P. Eric Chi) wrote:

>I have a Stanley try square ( with metal handle) which I got from a local 
>hardware store quite a while back. I found it is NOT square. Is there anyway I 
>can fix it?
>(BTW, it is too late to return it.)
>
As a last resort, you could try the classic method with a punch, long
used on engineers' squares.

I assume you know how to test the square on a straight edged board. If
the angle is more than 90 deg., apply the punch to the outer corner of
the try square. If less than 90 deg., punch the inside corner.

To be honest, I've only known this method to work on small steel
engineers' squares.

Usual disclaimers.

( jluby@globalnet.co.uk is my address for non-spammers )
 



From lucifer@sheol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:41 EST 1997
Article: 183902 of rec.woodworking
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From: lucifer@sheol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: test my reply software
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:20:04 GMT
Lines: 3
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Please consider using alt.just.testing for software tests. It's an
appropriate newsgroup. cwuest at ibm dot net
PS There's also alt.alt.test   10 Q


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:46:42 EST 1997
Article: 183903 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting metal on bandsaw meant for wood
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:10:45 +1100
Organization: RTA
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[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the 
cited author.]

In article <32FF2811.91F@veribest.com>, Les Bartel says...

> I've been toying with the idea of putting a larger pully on the shaft
> driven by the motor to slow my saw (14" Jet) for cutting metal.  The
> apparent problem is that I can only slow it to about 1000 feet per
> minute.  The largest pully that will work on top appears to be about 16"
> diameter.  This still seems too fast for cutting steel.  Has anyone else
> done this?  What other precautions should I take?  I will get a separate
> metal cutting blade.
> 
>  - les
> 
> I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
> Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
> mean.
> 
> My return mail address is incorrect to prevent spammers from getting
> my real address.
> 
> Les Bartel
> lbartel@veribest.com
> VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
> Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)
> 

Les,

I borrowed a copy of a book called "Using The Bandsaw" by Nick Engler 
>from  my local library yesterday and I think you should do likewise 
*before* you shove any steel through your bs.  The old adage that if it 
doesn't feel right then don't do it comes to mind when I think about your 
intentions.  So much for the safety bit.

The book has a section devoted to converting a single-speed bs into a 
four-speed job.  It basically involves replacing the single pulley with 
ganged, 4-inch dia., four-step pulleys on both the motor drive shaft and 
the blade drive wheel.  The four-step pulley diameters are 4", 3-3/8", 2-
5/8" and 2".  The drive pulley diameter is about 10"-12". ... a lot 
smaller than the 16" you were suggesting.  A v-belt joins them ... in the 
same fashion as the speed changer in a drill press.

According to Engler, this mechanism will produce outputs of about 2800-
3100 fpm, 1900-2100 fpm, 1100-1200 fpm and 680-750fpm.  He then goes on 
to list what speed settings to use for various wood cutting exercises and 
also lists speeds for cutting nonferrous metals, paper, particleboard, 
plastic and plywood.

I can't describe his detailed setup in this forum due to size obviously, 
so would refer you to Engler's book for the complete story.

Hope this helps,
-- 
Regards, Rick
In Oz
To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:46:43 EST 1997
Article: 183904 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels? (Frank K.)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 12:51:22 GMT
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Hi Frank

I *really* like your idea on how to rip dowels on a table saw. The only 
question I have is: Couldn't the dowel turn while being ripped? Maybe it 
would be a good idea to put a piece of sandpaper on each edge and/or 
bottom of the cut in the 2X4 to help keep it from turning. Thanks Frank, 
and all others who have helped. I knew it could be done.

Ed



From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sat Feb 15 11:46:44 EST 1997
Article: 183905 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: shaper cutters
Date: 13 Feb 1997 08:08:23 -0500
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
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In article <5dto75$sa@camel1.mindspring.com>,
David H. Tasso <davidht@pipeline.com> wrote:
>I'm trying to find a stile and rail cutter to match an existing unit.
>Most of my cutters are Freud or DML and they don't have what I need .
>I'm using 1" true stock and I need a 3/8" bead on one side only.  Any
>ideas for suppliers would be appreciated.

You could try "Woodline Arizona", they seem to carry a fairly large
selection of shaper cutters and their pricing is extremely good (don't
know how good the cutters are -- they look pretty good to my untrained
eye, but I haven't had a chance to test the ones I've gotten from them
yet -- been too cold in the unheated outside shop since I bought them
at a woodworking show in January). Their phone number is
"1-800-472-6950". If you give them a call and request one, they'll
probably mail you a free catalog. Their one piece rail & stile cutter
comes in three profiles (ogee, roundover, cove & bead) and (in the
last catalog I have) sells for $89 in 3/4" bore and $99 for 1 1/4" 
bore (1 1/4" bore includes 1" bushing). Their complete shaper cutter
door set in 3/4" bore sells for $199 and includes four cutters:
panel raiser (choice of something like five profiles), rail & stile
cutter, door lip, and glue joint. 

Lots of other folks will probably mention Freeborn as well. Apparently,
the dealer of preference for Freeborn is "Top Shelf" and they have an
e-mail contact address (they sent me a catalog a while back when I
requested one via e-mail). The e-mail address is "topshelf@epix.net".
(thanks again to Raymond Hearn for providing this information about
Top Shelf to me last April).

-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From Campbell_David_A@onaustralia.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:46:45 EST 1997
Article: 183906 of rec.woodworking
From: "David Campbell" <Campbell_David_A@onaustralia.com.au>
Subject: Re: Polishing Urethane
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <5dg8aa$2nl@camel0.mindspring.com>
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I tried using Re-po cleaner & polish (a fine automotive polishing compound)
with fairly promising results. Whether it will be as good as the original
gloss will depend on the quality of the original. It will be better than
the worst gloss achievable on polyurethane, but possibly not quite as good
as the best. Other automotive polishes may give better results, but will
probably leave purists equally outraged.
	Dave Campbell 

Philip Procter <pprocter@pipeline.com> wrote in article
<5dg8aa$2nl@camel0.mindspring.com>...
> I've got several small (12'x12") sheets of wood finished in a high
> gloss oil based urethane. The finish needs a final polish to eliminate
> the little scratches, dust flecks etc.
> 
> Can I polish urethane with polishing or buffing compound or do I need
> some other technique?
> God first,
> then your neighbors and yourself,
> all else is commentary.
> 
> 


From dmc@silcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:46 EST 1997
Article: 183907 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan McCammon <dmc@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Zero clearance insert for Unisaw
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 05:04:37 -0800
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plathrop wrote:
> 
> > }On 30 Jan 1997 13:02:37 GMT, engsols@aol.com (Engsols) wrote:
> > }
> > }>I bought a blank insert for my Unisaw.  I intended to fit the blank to
> the
> > }>saw while the blade was lowered, then raise the blade through the blank
> to
> > }>create the zero clearance insert.
> > }>
> > }>The 10" blade does not drop low enough to insert the blank.
> Suggestions?
> 
> Might I suggest cutting the slot with an 8 in or similar blade?  This
> should cut it enough of the insert, then put in the blade that you want to
> use and raise the blade to the position you need.
> 
> Paul

	The way I do it:  Lock the rip fence even with the right edge of the
old insert.  Place the new insert on top, clamp a block of wood to hold
it down, and another in front to keep it from walking.  Raise the blade
and there you have it.

	Dan


From droseman@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:47 EST 1997
Article: 183908 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:25:20 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:36:43 -0800, Bruce Johnson
<xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com> wrote:


>Two years ago, I finally spent the money and bought an HTC overarm guard
>system, and I've been very happy with it. It's not inconvenient at all.
>I chose the HTC over the Beismeyer and Delta versions because the HTC
>has much better visibility of the blade. If you're not familiar with it,
>the HTC has a large flat acrylic block that is suspended "rigidly" above
>the blade. A hand crank on top adjusts the height of the guard for the
>thickness of the wood, and a release knob swings the whole thing out of
>the way to change blades or use a sliding fixture. It's well designed
>and sturdy.

Does anyone know if the HTC overhead TS guard is OSHA-approved?
Somewhere (perhaps this ng?) I heard that OSHA requires a guard to
float on the workpiece, but haven't gotten around to researching it
myself. dcr


From tcirillo@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:48 EST 1997
Article: 183909 of rec.woodworking
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From: thomas cirillo <tcirillo@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:12:52 -0500
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Bruce Johnson wrote:
> 
> Very well written, Bennett!
> 
> I used my Grizzly 1023 for several years without a guard, because the
> factory unit was just awful to work with. I was very, very careful but I
> knew that there was a good chance that some day, something could go just
> a little bit wrong, and I could lose a couple of fingers. I realized
> that the worry was interfering with my enjoyment of woodworking.
> 
> Two years ago, I finally spent the money and bought an HTC overarm guard
> system, and I've been very happy with it. It's not inconvenient at all.
> I chose the HTC over the Beismeyer and Delta versions because the HTC
> has much better visibility of the blade. If you're not familiar with it,
> the HTC has a large flat acrylic block that is suspended "rigidly" above
> the blade. A hand crank on top adjusts the height of the guard for the
> thickness of the wood, and a release knob swings the whole thing out of
> the way to change blades or use a sliding fixture. It's well designed
> and sturdy.
> 
> Now I know that if an earthquake starts in the middle of a cut (that's
> no joke here in Burbank, CA!), or if my dog suddenly barks right behind
> me, or whatever else, I'm protected. It would be very hard to get your
> hand into the blade with a good overarm guard in place.
> 
> The peace of mind was worth the $350 cost.
> 
> Bruce Johnson
> Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
> Burbank, CA
> 
> Bennett Leeds wrote:
> >
> > Verne H. Bohlender writes
> > > I just lately removed mine as I was having so much difficulty with
> > > cutting the boxes I was working on. ...
> >
> > Donald H. Littrell writes
> > > Is that because flying chips have removed your eyesight?  To operate a
> > > power tool without using available protection is fool-hardy.
> >
> > Duane Bartlett writes
> > > The last time I saw my blade guard was when I saw the
> > > saw in the place where I bought it.
> >
> > Bill McCurdy writes
> > > To advocate the use of power tools without guards is irresponsible.
> >
> > In a perfect world, Don and Bill would be right. But, this ain't no
> > perfect world, and no guard is perfect. Going without guards like Duane
> > and Verne are doing isn't so smart, IMHO, either.
> >
> > The truth is that in our real world there is danger in everything. The
> > goal as I see it is to manage the risk knowledgably. How important are your
> > fingers? If it's absolutely essential that you never cut them, then you
> > should not engage in woodworking. If you don't mind losing a few, then run
> > power tools without guards or push sticks since you'll work faster and
> > easier (until your accident, at any rate).
> >
> > Most of us are in the middle. We want to take precautions that are affordable
> > AND don't make woodworking much more difficult. Stock guards as they
> > come often do make woodworking more difficult.
> >
> > But, where price is important, tuning the guards and/or augmenting them
> > with shopbuilt guards is worth it as much as tuning your miter gauge bar,
> > aligning your rip fence, etc. If you don't think it's possible, check out
> > an old video tape "Small Shop Tips with Jim Cummins," where he uses the
> > stock guard for many tablesaw cuts.
> >
> > Others with more resources might want to look into the aftermarket guards.
> > I've got an overarm guard on my saw that, combined with a rising splitter,
> > makes most operations (including narrow angled rips, dadoes, etc.) safe
> > enough for me. Many others feel this way, too.
> >
> > The important thing is to decide where on the continuum from no guards
> > to no woodworking you lie, basing your decision on knowledge, not blind
> > "guards suck" or "you're stupid if you don't use guards" sayings.
> >
> > - Bennett Leeds
> > bennett@adobe.com
> >
> > Opinions are mine alone.
where can I learn more about this HTC system; I don't see it in the
catalogues I've got. Is it sold direct? thanks, tom.


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:49 EST 1997
Article: 183910 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:38:49 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Dan McCammon wrote:
sinp
>         How about using a 3/8" round over (on the router table), rout both side
> on a 3/4" board, and rip the strip off?
Dan - yeah, last night the more I thought about it, why not go to the
store and by half round, or use your idea.
 
I'm making a bench seat and the back has 2 rails with 9 splats. The
rails are 3/4" thick and the splats are 1/4" thick so mortise and tenon
is not my choice here because of the thiness of the splats. 
Here's my plan - I intend to route a 1/4" groove in the rails and put
spacers between the splats. I didn't want it to look like a patch job,
so by making the spacers flat on the top and only 1/4" high (same depth
as the grove).  So I'm going to cut a 3" wide strip (reasonable enough
to handle safely) 1/4" thick piece - take it to the router table pass it
over a 1/4" round over, turn it over run the other side. Then take it to
the BS rip it 3/8" then cut it into 2" strips as the spacers. Since it
will be 3/8" wide (high when inserted into the groove) and the groove is
1/4" the rounded nose will rise above the groove and will appear as a
design point as opposed to a patch.
Whata you think ?


From ashenfyre@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:50 EST 1997
Article: 183911 of rec.woodworking
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From: ashenfyre@aol.com (Ashenfyre)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: AOL & REC.WOODWORKING & etc
Date: 13 Feb 1997 13:48:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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As an asside to this issue.  After some 4 years on aol I sent a letter to
Steve Case. (like he has time to read it.)   Stating the fact that if AOLl
does'nt get their program in gear,  their vaunted 8 million subscribers
were going to leave in droves.   The response was from an underling who
titled the response  "Re: Phone Issues"   I don't even think she read my
letter.  

If you have problems with rec.woodworking on aol  this is probably the
time to find another server.  Netscape for instance allows you to sort
your newsgroups by date author and subject. As do many other servers.  
Good luck to ya.


From watts@inlink.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:51 EST 1997
Article: 183912 of rec.woodworking
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From: "/\\/\\arshall \\/\\/atts" <watts@inlink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 06:56:33 -0600
Organization: InLink
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Chuck Riccardo wrote:
> 
> ddurbin@fn5.freenet.tlh.fl.us (Dick Durbin) wrote:
> >Tim Gillespie (tgillesp@mail.tds.net) wrote:
> >: LEE WARD wrote:
> >
> >: Let's see. Bu my count they were (in tentative chronological order):
> >
> >:      Peggy Knapp
> >:      Suzanne Eglie(sp)
> >:      Joanne Liebler
> >:      Robin Hartle
> >
> >I understand there is going to be a new mini-series on PBS: "The Many
> >Wives of Dean Johnson."                fe
> >--
> >Dick Durbin       * "Who is out there to inspire us with a
> >Tallahassee, FL   * personal example of virtue and self
> >                  * sacrifice in the name of a higher good?"
> >                                             - CALVIN
> >
> 
> Joanne Liebler, left the show to try her hand in some Hollywood stuff. I
> thought that she was the best of them. Dean is happily married - or at
> least married - but not to any of the above.  cmr

Is it me or was Joanne a major turn-on?  I thought she was very, very,
cute and I would love to have a wife that was as handy as her around the
house.  It was the only reason I watched!!!

Marshall
watts@inlink.com


From watts@inlink.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:51 EST 1997
Article: 183913 of rec.woodworking
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From: "/\\/\\arshall \\/\\/atts" <watts@inlink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 07:04:32 -0600
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I own a home in St. Louis that has some railroad tie walls in
the back of it.  My real estate agent said they were the good
ones, real ones, not some of the new ones that don't last.
My question is, I heard they use to soke them in creosote.
I've also heard you can't get it anymore because of health or
enviromental reasons.  What can I use to maintain these things?
The creosote made them look black tar like, which I would like
to maintain if possible.

Can anyone help???

Marshall
watts@inlink.com


From r*white@enternet.com.au Sat Feb 15 11:46:52 EST 1997
Article: 183914 of rec.woodworking
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From: r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer Systems Manager)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 21:44:40 +1100
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[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the 
cited author.]

In article <3301D45D.5ED7@nortel.ca>, David T. Bilenkey says...

snip ...
> I'm trying to find out when Robertson type (square recessed socket) screws first 
> became generally available and used in Canada. If I'm not mistaken these screws are 
> still pretty much only found in Canada, so this question might not be of interest to 
> the Americans who read this group (then again maybe it will).
> 
These screws are available in Australia, although I've only seen them 
in mail-order ads and that's how I get them.  Having used them I wouldn't 
use anything else ... don't know why anyone else would either.

There's more to the world than America, ya know.

> Any help appreciated.
> 
> -- 
> David Bilenkey
> Industrial Designer                       Telephone:              (613) 765-3476
> Corporate Design Group                        Fax:              (613) 763-4904
> Nortel Technology Ltd.                      e-mail:      bilenkey@nortel.ca
> P.O. Box 3511, Station C
> Ottawa, Ontario,
> Canada K1Y 4H7
> 
-- 
Regards, Rick
In Oz
To email me first remove the * from the email address shown above.


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:53 EST 1997
Article: 183915 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:53:48 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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David - Thanks for sharing your experience with the 'buddies'
I guess I'm inclined to agree with you on your assement of just having
the back 'buddie' when doing narrow rips. It's for sure better than not
having it.
Guess I'll be putting mine on order this week.
Thanks !
David Roseman wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:11:17 -0500, Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
> wrote:
> 
> >I've thought about the 'yellow buddies'. Do you use them?
snip

> 
> I've had a set for the TS for more than twelve years.  
snip


From jhelm@waterw.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:54 EST 1997
Article: 183916 of rec.woodworking
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From: jhelm <jhelm@waterw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:37:56 -0500
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Jan has the right approach here, however
I would send the jig block (with the dowel mounted on top),
through my radial arm saw set up to rip.
This way I could ensure allignment and set cut depth to just
rip the dowel, not the entire board.
Good Luck


Jan Hofland wrote:
:The way I've done it is to first cut a V groove in a scrap 1x4 or
similar.
:Then glue the dowel into the groove at its ends with hot melt glue. 
Then
:set the table saw rip fence to the center of the dowel and cut.  Still
takes
:some care but doesn't rely on the dangerous prospect of trying to hold
the
:dowel centered and rotationally stable.  You might lose a couple of
inches
:of the dowel at either end.  Quite often, however, you can just pry the
glued joint loose.


From scott216@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:55 EST 1997
Article: 183917 of rec.woodworking
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From: scott216@aol.com (Scott216)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sharpening Station
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:24:23 GMT
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I want to buy a grinder to sharpen tools.  I was thinking of getting a
typical bench grinder then buying a tool rest, Wolverine or something.
But, in the Garrett Wade catalog I saw a Swedish Tormek Model 2004
grinder.  This has a vertical 10"x2" grindstone that runs through a bath
of water (90 RPM).  On the other side of the grinder there is a leather
honing wheel.  There is a bar above the grindstone that accepts various
tool rests.  Is this a better way to go?  Does anyone have any experience
with this kind of setup?




Scott Goldthwaite
Portland, OR
Go for it, it's later than you think!




From davea@ssec.wisc.edu Sat Feb 15 11:46:56 EST 1997
Article: 183918 of rec.woodworking
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From: davea@ssec.wisc.edu (David Allen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:18:16 GMT
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robert lightfoot <lightfoot@bikerider.com> writes:

>Bruce Taylor wrote:
>> 
>> Ed Ladendorf wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Gang
>> >
>> > Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
>> do I
>> > do it without getting hurt?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > Ed
>> 
>> Umm - how about a handsaw? Seriously...
>>                                             Bruce

>It is not hard nor dangerous to do this if you set up your
>table saw correctly, and use the right attachments. 

>I just did this last week to make some very small quarter round.

>Here is how: (and I still have all 10 fingers to type about it.)

>You simply need some feather boards, 2 of them.  Set one up to
>hold the dowel down against the table top, set the other up to 
>hold the dowel against the fence. Push it through with a scrap 
>piece of dowl and have a helper pull the last few inches through.

>The feather boards will keep it alinged and prevent kickback.

>robert

But how to you keep it from rotating? Seems like that might
be a problem??

Just wondering...

	Dave Allen
	Space Science & Engr. Ctr.
	UW-Madison
	dave.allen@ssec.wisc.edu



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:57 EST 1997
Article: 183919 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:30:49 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Rick Harding wrote:
SNIP
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
> collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
> has good suction and runs quietly.
> 
> <rlhardin@ingr.com>

Rick,
I have a JET DC-1200. This is their 2HP system. It is well built and has
metal blades in the fan. I've also sucked up small pieces of wood when
cleaning up, makes a racket ! but - you're NOT going to break off one of
these fan blades - believe me !!
The system is connected to my TS, BS, Jointer, RAS and floor hood. I
leave the blast gates open on the TS, RAS and BS all time. I have no
problems with suction from any of my equipment. Dust and chip removal is
excellent. The TS is the furthest away and it has about 50' of 4" hose
run to it - LARGE SUCTION at the TS. Many times I've disconnected the
hose ant the TS to vacum up the floor as opposed to sweeping - keeps the
dust down. But now I've added the JDS-2000 350 so sweeping doesn't
bother me the way it did....
It IS NOT quite - LOUD, but I expect that with a piece of equipment like
this. However you know it's only running when your cutting something,
not like it's in the background running all day.
Like most of the JET equipment it can be wired on 115/220. I've set up
all of my equipment to run on 220v. This is because they only draw half
the current when wired to 220v. Uses the same amount of power (you know)
but I can run smaller wire. The DC-1200 runs at 30amps on 110/115 and
15amps on 220/230. When using 15amps you can run 14 gauge wire (not that
I did - I ran 12gauge because that's how I am - most always up one notch
>from  where I have to be.) Another factor here was that my power source
for the shop is from a sup-panel and I'm limited by the size of the
cable that is run into the sub-panel. So running everything on 220v
allows me to have more items connected into that panel (again - because
on 220v you draw less current).
Hope this helps.
Regards - Termite


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:46:58 EST 1997
Article: 183921 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1-1/2 HP Router or Laminate Trimmer?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:43:15 GMT
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>> 
>> I have a (soon to be table mounted) 3-1/4 HP Freud FT2000E and was
>> wondering what to get for hand-held work.  A laminate trimmer looks
>> much easier to handle and get in small places (and is cheaper), but
>> would it leave too much of a 'power gap' between itself and the Freud?
>> 
>> - John C. Straffin
>> straffin@evolveinc.com
>John I have Abig p.c.router and a 1 1/2 p.c. for smaller hand held work
>you will not be happy with a laminate trimmer ( they really are for
>trimming)
>hope this helps
>jim
>
>

Jim, beg to differ.  I use the Ryobi trimmer for a number of things besides trimming. It rounds over, digs narrow dadoes/rabbets, etc.  The Makita stays in the table for 85% of the routing. 


From mgilm@freeway.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:58 EST 1997
Article: 183922 of rec.woodworking
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From: mgilm@freeway.net (Michael Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HELP! Flash Rust Everywhere
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 14:36:39 GMT
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HELP...

I have a converted garage/shop.
Recently we had an unfortunate accident.  My wife was doing a marathon
laundry session Saturday while I was away at work.  Unknown to her, something
had fallen  and broken the aluminum piping for the dryer that ran through the 
end of my shop.  When I got home and stepped out into the shop, it was like I 
walked into a San Francisco Fog.  Every unpainted steel surface in my shop was 
covered with rust.  Band saw, jointer, saw blades, bits, even my screwdrivers 
were covered in the stuff.  <Fortunately my Ryobi table saw has an aluminum 
table.>  I immediately sprayed all the major surfaces down with WD-40.  I have 
tried since to remove the rust by using steel wool, and even wet/dry sandpaper 
but  I don't seem to be getting anywhere, I haven't tried power sanding yet 
but was afraid of damaging something.  And it's hard to sand drill and router 
bits. If anyone has any suggestions I would be very glad to hear them.  I am 
just sick about this.

Thanks a lot,

Michael Gilmore
mgilm@freeway.net

Petoskey MI
"where this week 10 below is a warm spell"


From robandwendy@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:46:59 EST 1997
Article: 183923 of rec.woodworking
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From: robandwendy@earthlink.net (Rob)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Question about using a Shopsmith tablesaw
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:40:17 -0500
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Does any one have any suggestions on how to extend my table for the
tablesaw.  I am having a hard time cutting long boards with it.  I'm
looking for an idea that allows me to have this table extension adjust up
and down when I adjust the saw. Thanks.


From acd02@gnofn.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:00 EST 1997
Article: 183924 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron C Davis <acd02@gnofn.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Refinishing Question
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:30:51 GMT
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Repairing and refinishing some furniture for my neighbor.  Three tables
that his father made.  He gave them to me last night and I started to take
one apart.  All of the glue joints have failed, legs wobbly, joint in
table top seperated.  These table were made around 1948 out of mahogany.
The legs are mortised and tenoned to the stiles but wood screws were also
used to fasten them (his father was an engineer so major overkill).  Well,
I got a few of the screws out after straining myself and was wondering if
there was an easier way to get them out.  They're regular head screws so
I'm a little worried about stripping the heads.  Is there andy way I could
treat them, with an oil or something.  Not sure if they were glued too,
but if so, it's probably failed too.  Just think the wood has well dried.
Thought about using an easy out type device.  Well, thanks for any info as
these pieces have lots of sentimental value to my neighbor and I'd hate to
mess them up.

thanks in advance,

Aaron Davis



From cribfaq@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:01 EST 1997
Article: 183925 of rec.woodworking
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From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: FAQ: Crib and Cradle Safety Regulations
Summary: A summary of crib and cradle safety regulations.
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Archive-name: misc-kids/crib-safety-faq
Last-modified: Wed Jan 25 23:48:39 EST 1995

Editor/Author: Chris Lewis, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Comments-to: cribfaq@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
	(automatic if you reply to this posting)

		Copyright 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994 Chris Lewis
	Redistribution for-profit hereby prohibited without consent
	of the author.  Redistribution via printed book or CDROM
	expressly prohibited without consent of the author.

New or changed material is marked with a "|".  You can skip to the
new sections by typing "g^|" in most newsreaders.

Changes this issue: See reference to US regulations, and US-specific change
		    on corner posts.

I will extend this from time-to-time as comments come in, or it
seems appropriate to add new stuff.  This is not formated as Q&A,
just as a series of points.

This is a summary of the "Crib and Cradle Safety" pamphlet published
by the Ministry of Consumer and Corporate Affairs, Canada.
The date on the pamphlet seems to be 1987.  I don't imagine that
it's changed much since then.  The pamphlet ID is:

	C&CC No 190 17342 B 87-07

>From  what I've heard of US regulation, they're fairly close.

More detailed US specifications are available from the US Consumer Product
Safety Commission by writing them at:

Publication Request
Office of Information and Public Affairs
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Washington, D.C. 20207

You should ask for publication #202 ("The Safe Nursery - A Buyer's Guide")

These are probably a good start when you're determining the safety
of an existing crib or are thinking of building your own.  When in
doubt, though, it is suggested that you obtain the latest applicable
regulations.  I've done my best to transcribe them accurately, but
I do not warrantee the accuracy or current applicability of these
rules.

The measurements in this pamphlet are metric.   I'll take a stab at
the conversions, but if there's a conflict, take the metric.
(for reference, you divide centimetres (cm) by 2.54 to get inches.
There are 10 millimetres (mm) in a centimetre).  Even if these
are a direct copy of the USA's (or vice-versa) people should be
aware that the actual US regulations will probably not be
exact conversions (eg: it's been rounded off one way or the other)

slat spacing: maximum: 6cm (2 3/8")  [This may seem unreasonably
narrow - no child that's likely to be at home is going to have a head
*that* small.  True.  But a child's body can often slip through
a gap only a little larger, resulting in strangulation when the
child's head gets caught.]

corner post protrusion (above rails/frame): 3mm max (1/8", 1/16" US)

When the mattress support is at the lowest position and the drop side
is at the highest, the top of the rail must be at least 66cm (26")
above the top of the mattress support.

When the mattress support is at its highest, and drop side at lowest,
the top of the rail must be at least 23cm (9") above the top of the
mattress support.

Other rules:
	- drop side requires two separate positive and simultaneous
	  actions to release the side, and engages automatically.
	- there must be no gap between the lower edge of the end panel
	  and the upper edge of mattress support.
	- all small parts are firmly attached and able to withstand
	  a 90 newton (20 pounds) of force, pull or push
	- there are no split, cracked or broken, loose or missing slats,
	  or broken or missing hardware or screws
	- threaded bolt ends are either inaccessible or covered by
	  an acorn nut
	- mattress support mechanisms are firmly attached so that they
	  cannot be released with an upward push from under the mattress
	  support.
	- there is no mmore than a 3cm (1 3/16") gap between the mattress
	  and the sides or ends of the crib when the mattress is pushed
	  into a corner.
	- the labeling on cribs, cradles and their containers clearly
	  identifies the manufacturer, model number and date of manufacture.
	- all open holes are too small for a child's finger to become caught.
	- crib mattresses should be no thicker than 15cm (5 7/8").
	  They should be kept in good condition.  if they're too soft
	  or worn down in any area, a gap or hollow may be created where
	  a baby could become trapped and suffocate.

    Literature which must accompany the crib or cradle should:
	- state and show clearly how to assemble the product
	- contain a warning on proper use of the product, including a
	  statement not to use it if the child is able to climb out
	  unaided or, in the case of cribs, is taller than 90cm.
	
    Mattress support mechanisms:
	The mattress support mechanisms or hangers on some cribs may
	not be secure.  Check them by rattling the mattress support,
	thumping the mattress from the top and repeating the thumping
	on the support from the bottom.  If the support dislodges, your
	child's life could be in danger.  To prevent this, prop up the
	mattress support firmly from underneath, perhaps by using large
	boxes.

	[Ed note: when in doubt, bolt it together.  This one item is
	probably responsible for more deaths than all of the other problems
	put together]

Precautions:
	- Some people like to protect the mattress with waterproof sheets -
	  but these could hamper a child's breathing and should not be
	  used.

	  [Ed note: many new mattresses come with integral waterproof
	  coverings.  You should use a quilted mattress protector *and*
	  a fitted mattress sheet (cotton or flannelette) over top.]

	- bumper pads are used to protect a baby's head if he or she happens
	  pump it against the side of the crib.  Bumper pads come protected
	  with a plastic cover, which should be checked as often as possible.
	  If it's punctured or torn, it could be chewed or torn even
	  further, and a baby might swallow or inhale pieces of it and
	  choke.  A torn plastic cover also leads to holes in the bumper
	  pad, and babies have been known to stick their heads in these
	  holes and suffocate.

Pointers:
	- Always make sure that your crib is assembled strictly in
	  accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, and that
	  each component is properly and securely in place at all
	  times.
	- If you own a portable mesh crib, make certain that the drop side
	  is fixed very securely in the raised position.  Otherwise, the
	  baby might roll into the mesh pocket formed when the drop side
	  is not fully raised.  The baby's head or chest could easily
	  become compressed between the floor of the crib and the mesh
	  side and the baby could suffocate.
	- Never leave a baby in a crib with something like a necklace,
	  elastic, scarf or with a pacifier on a long cord...
	- People like to hang mobiles over cribs.  These should be too
	  far to be reached by a baby standing in the crib.
	- Babies should never be tied or harnessed in a crib.
	- As soon as your baby is able to sit up, remove crib exercisors
	  or other toys that are strung over the crib.
	- As soon as your baby is able to stand, ensure that the mattress
	  is at its lowest position, and remove the bumper pads from the
	  crib, as well as any large toys that could serve as steps for
	  climbing out.
	- Avoid using a crib with toeholds - ie: slat/spindle cribs with
	  cross-bars in the head or foot board.  There should be no foot
	  hold that is less than the above side minimum height specifications
	  from the top.
	- When your baby is old enough to climb out of the crib, it's time
	  to stop using it.

New rules/recommendations:
	- rocking cradles (rocker or swing type) should be designed so that
	  they will rock less than 10 degrees when a child is all the way
	  to one side, or be supplied with spring-loaded bolt locks.
	  "Loose pin" locks are inadequate, because they may fall out or
	  be forgotten or lost.  If the cradle rocks more than 10 degrees
	  under the weight of a child, very young children can roll into a
	  corner, become entangled in the bedclothes, be unable to move
	  and suffocate.

Political Correctness:

    Some senior health officials consider having your child sleep in
    your bed with you to be extremely hazardous, because, asleep, you
    could roll over and crush or suffocate your child.  Worse, some of
    these same officials, plus those in child welfare agencies consider
    it to be prima-facie evidence of child abuse, and being sufficient
    in itself to result in a child being removed into state care.

    Of course it's all horse manure.  Having children sleep by themselves
    in cribs is a phenomena unique to just a few western cultures, and
    that only in the very recent past.
    
    However, some of these people have very broad discretionary powers,
    and caution is advised.

[Canada only] If you have further questions, please contact your local
office of Consumer and Corporate Affairs Canada.

Building your own crib/cradle (not from the pamphlet)

Finishing:

Ideally, you want to use a totally non-toxic finish, because some children
tend to act like beavers....  The best solution is to use some sort of
edible oil.  Unfortunately, most of the vegetable oils (corn oil, sunflower
oil et. al.) take a long time to dry, if at all, and under some circumstances
will go rancid and smell and may cause a child some distress.  Three oil
finishes that are known to be suitable are:

	- pure tung oil (make sure it says it's *pure*.  Most "tung oil"
	  finishes are combined with metallic driers and solvents to improve
	  hardness or speed up the drying)
	- walnut oil.
	- Behlen's salad bowl finish.

It's recommended that you let these finishes dry for two weeks or longer.

Some of the standard finishes will dry to a non-toxic state, but this
will depend on the brand, and a long drying time.  This FAQ will make
no recommendations as to whether any are suitable.

Mineral oil can be used because it is non-toxic, but it never really
dries completely.

Note that there have been reports that cribs painted with old-fashioned lead
paints can actually have direct toxic affects on a child.  If you obtain
an old cradle (70's or earlier), it might be worth testing it for lead
if it has a paint finish.

Materials:  Many woods can cause skin irritation or other problems.
If you stick to a domestic hardwood (maple, cherry, walnut, poplar,
pine, oak, beech etc.) and use a reasonable finish, the cradle will be
safe.  Woods to avoid without extra precautions are: most exotic
hardwoods (especially rosewood, teak), cedar, juniper (aromatic cedar)
and some of the less common domestics, such as Oleander and Mimosa.
-- 
For more information on spam, including countermeasures and resources,
see the Internet Spam Boycott, at <URL:http://www.vix.com/spam/>.

Chris Lewis: _Una confibula non sat est_


From clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:02 EST 1997
Article: 183926 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.bc.net!torn!news.dal.ca!news.nstn.ca!ecicrl!clewis
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: Re: 220V wiring question
Message-ID: <E5Jn0t.JrM@ferret.ocunix.on.ca>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:34:04 GMT
References: <32ecbc27.146192@nntp.ix.netcom.com> <32F6129F.3D1E@california.com> <32f73ad1.3900004@news.teleport.com> <5dalmd$b1l@camel1.mindspring.com>
Organization: eh?
Lines: 38
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183926

In article <5dalmd$b1l@camel1.mindspring.com>,
Tom Gauldin <scoundrl@mindspring.com> wrote:
>nt7t@teleport.com (Jim Jones) wrote:
>
>>>> >
>>>> >Not to put too fine a point on this, Jerald, but this is an error in
>>>> >your otherwise fine post.
>>>> >
>>>> >The two phases you get when you bring 220 into the house are
>>>> >two-out-of-possible-three phases. They are, in fact, 120 degrees out of
>>>> >phase.
>>>> Snip
>
>What you aren't considering is that each leg of even a 3-phase system has a
>full sine wave.  Therfore, a center tapped transformer from any single leg of
>a 3-phase system would produce two complete sine waves that were 180 degrees
>out of synch with each other.

True.

>The domestic 220 we find in our homes is just that.  

Nope.  You're forgetting voltage.  If domestic 240V service was simply
two legs of a 240V three phase circuit, then the voltage measured from
leg to leg would be 208V, _not_ 240V.

Certainly, they can make three phase transformers that generate 240V
leg-to-leg, and use two legs for each house.  But, if you look you'll
notice that most pole transformers have only two supply lines, not three.

And of course, if you look around enough, you'll find that many appliances
are rated to go on 208V as well as 240V.  Like many water heaters.
But residential power is almost always 240V.
-- 
For more information on spam, including countermeasures and resources,
see the Internet Spam Boycott, at <URL:http://www.vix.com/spam/>.

Chris Lewis: _Una confibula non sat est_


From clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:02 EST 1997
Article: 183927 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 table saw?
Message-ID: <E5Jn90.nBB@ferret.ocunix.on.ca>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:39:00 GMT
References: <32F93348.2BB4@informix.com> <19970209152301.KAA11759@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Organization: eh?
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In article <19970209152301.KAA11759@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
RWGCUBED <rwgcubed@aol.com> wrote:
>I recently bought the 34-670 from Home Depot for $315 as a floor model,
>but it sells for $350 new anyway. $300 doesn't seem like much of a
>discount to me for a used tablesaw, but if it comes with a few good
>blades, tenoning jig, etc, it might be worth it. 

Just make sure that the saw has _round_ rails, not square ones.  Apparently
an earlier revision of this saw had square rails, and this seemed to
coincide with a lot of people having trouble with burnt out motors.

$300US seems rather steep though for used saw, unless you're getting
lots of accessories.
-- 
For more information on spam, including countermeasures and resources,
see the Internet Spam Boycott, at <URL:http://www.vix.com/spam/>.

Chris Lewis: _Una confibula non sat est_


From paul_tackowiak@ccmail.bms.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:03 EST 1997
Article: 183928 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Tackowiak <paul_tackowiak@ccmail.bms.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:50:28 -0800
Organization: bms.com
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Can you imagine the bickering and fighting that goes on between Norm's
"sponsors"? How hard is Delta pushing for Norm to dump that Porter Cable
(?) laser, miter saw? (Especially since it seems to have been pulled of
the market.) I wonder if these guys ever try to sneak on the set and
switch tools. I also wonder how poor Norm balances his appreciation for
a good tool with his sponsership obligations. How many sales people do
you think have probably sent Norm free tools to try out? Might we see
Norm suddenly pick up a cordless Impulse hammer instead of his
pneumatic? The behind-the-scenes intrigue is probably more interesting
than the actual projects.


From grfx@epgd.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:04 EST 1997
Article: 183929 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!198.175.228.33!news.ktb.net!ts01-ppp00.ktb.net!user
From: grfx@epgd.com (Erik Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood by mail
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 06:59:54 -0800
Organization: EPGD
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183929

The mail order mills sometimes have some pretty great deals on hardwoods.
Anybody have much experience with mail order wood. Good luck, bad luck?
Thanks


From jiml@neosoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:05 EST 1997
Article: 183930 of rec.woodworking
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From: jiml@neosoft.com (Jim Ledbetter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Raised Floor in shop?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:42:47 UNDEFINED
Organization: NeoSoft, Inc.  
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183930

Anybody tried using raised floor -- computer room type stuff -- in a shop?  
Easy wiring and dust collector runs.  Seems to run about $3 - $5 per square 
foot, used.

jim


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:06 EST 1997
Article: 183931 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Message-ID: <33032D27.7C08@qgraph.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:03:03 -0600
References: <01bc1957$c5a97ec0$4b3378cf@rharding.airnet.net>
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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Rick Harding wrote:
> 
> I recently bought a ShopSmith DC after seeing it at one of there road shows
> at the local mall.  I bought the SS because I have a SS 510 that I have
> been very happy with and new that the hoses/etc. would connect up without
> needing any adapters.  I also liked the compact design, ease of mobility,
> and how quiet it ran.  About a week and a half after arrival, I
> accidentally sucked up a cone shaped piece of plastic about 2" in diameter,
> well the machine made a terrible noise and began vibrating like mad.  I
> opened it to remove what I thought was going to be the trapped piece of
> plastic and discovered that the object had busted out two of the PLASTIC
> fan blades.
> I think this machine will be going back to SS.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
> collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
> has good suction and runs quietly.
> 
> <rlhardin@ingr.com>

I have the Jet 2hp which is on 220v.  No plastic in this one.  Lot of
power and quite IMHO.



From pprocter@pipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:07 EST 1997
Article: 183932 of rec.woodworking
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From: pprocter@pipeline.com (Philip Procter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: staining oak endgrain
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 15:13:56 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 21
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L Anthony Whitney <lawhitne@cc.ysu.edu> wrote:

>I've turned several ball top finials for railing posts.  Now I want to
>stain them.  How can I prevent the end grain from turning almost black?
>Will staining over shellac do the job? TIA Tony.

I've heard (but NOT tried it yet) that using paste type stains will
work, as they do not penetrate quickly. Using a spit coat (highly
dilute shellac) is another technique. For either, I'd advise a very
fine sanding of the end grain (600 grit) before staining.

In either case, TRY IT FIRST on some scrap wood!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let us know the results, please!

Philip

God first,
then your neighbors and yourself,
all else is commentary.



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:08 EST 1997
Article: 183933 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!jump.net!grunt.dejanews.com!not-for-mail
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:31:20 -0600
From: ddrewek@qgraph.com
Subject: Re: Got my JET Bandsaw, Wheel Alingment ?????
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855843493.1587@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183933

In article <33024109.7BBF@qgraph.com>,
  damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:
>
> Phil Rose wrote:
> >
> > In article <3301F789.D1E@qgraph.com>, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
wrote:
> >
> > > I got my 14" Jet bandsaw last might.  I did not purchase the book on
> > > bandsaws because I found I have an article in an old WOOD magazine on
> > > alignment, so I am following that.
> > >
> > > To my suprise I found the wheels were not coplaner.  In tilting the
> > > upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not touch the straight
> > > edge.  Per the article I placed a washer behind the rear wheel to bring
> > > it out a bit and then I was able to align everything.
> > >
> > > Is this normal to have to do this to a new saw?  The article leads me to
> > > believe as long as it needs < 1/4" shim it's ok??  Any experiences with
> > > this??
> >
> > Damian,
> > It's not entirely clear from your post what you did to test for wheel
> > coplanarity.
> >
> > You said "In tilting the upper wheel, the top of the bottom wheel would not
> > touch the straight edge."
> >
> > When I do the test, I hold a straight edge across the lower wheel and
> > adjust (if needed) the upper wheel's tilt so that the SE also hits the
> > upper wheel's bottom (face) edge. Then, I leave the upper wheel at that
> > tilt setting and slide the SE up to determine if it simultaneously contacts
> > the top/bottom (face) of the upper wheel as well as the top of the lower
> > wheel. If so, the wheels are coplanar. [Naturally, this situation will only
> > hold true at a single, unique position of the tilt adjustment.]
> >
> > Anyway, my Jet 14" bandsaw had coplanar wheels right out of the box. I
> > don't recall anyone recently reporting a need to shim the wheel on new Jet
> > bandsaws. But it's bound to happen sometime.
> >
> > As an aside, when I did my initial check on wheel planarity a couple of
> > years ago, I determined that a 1/8" washer was needed. I did the
> > installation, and then found out the shim had to be removed because I had
> > done the check incorrectly. :-(
> >
> > --
> > Phil Rose
>
> Very interesting feedback.  What I did was lay the SE across both wheels
> at the same time, tilted the upper so both t/b made contact.  the lower
> wheel only had bottom contact.  Thats why I shimmed.  If I read your
> post right, I did not come close.  To review what you said:
>
> Lay the SE on bottom wheel and make both t/b contact and then move it to
> the upper wheel and adjust tilt.  I will do this tonight and see if
> works and let you know.
>
> Thanks
> Damian

I tried the technique outlines by Phil and still had the same problem.
Had to shim the lower wheel.  Is this of concern?  It's just a washer
that rides against the bearing.

Thanks
Damian

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
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From EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:09 EST 1997
Article: 183934 of rec.woodworking
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From: EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pay back time
Date: 13 Feb 1997 15:16:34 GMT
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In <19970213025200.VAA25184@ladder01.news.aol.com>, wooddon@aol.com writes:
>Hi to all,
>I need help. Best friend ( wife) ask me to build her a wall mounted quilt hanger. She wants to display her full sized quilts. I have invisioned a double wood bar with thur bolts into threaded inserts and its lookig pretty ugly. I have never seen a quilt
wall hanger. She wants to have the quilt fully open and hang it from this thing. I would really appreciate any and all ideas and help. please post here or e-mail me.
>                                    Wooddon

Two boards of favorite material, 4 inches wide and as long as the quilt.
Board 1, run a trough lengthwise 2/3 down from the designated top.
Board 2, attach half-round molding along same line as trough in board one so
that if you lay board 2 on board 1 the half round snuggles in the trough.
Pre-drill board 2 every 12 inches 1/3 to 1/2 down from the designated top.
Attach board 1 to the wall high enough to hang the quilt.
With help, hang the quilt so that the top edge overlays the trough but does
not reach the hole drilled through board 2, which is where board two will be
screwed to board 1.
Screw through board 2 into board 1 - this will pinch the quilt between the
half-round and the trough, kind of like a clothes pin (remember those?).
Continue down the length until the quilt is hung.  Since the quilt is only
pinched between the wood, there is no permanent damage.
You will have to cover the screw heads on the outside of board 2 - match your
decorating - country, you might attach small painted wood hearts.  Oak and
formal, maybe small routed squares.  Up to you.

Works great.  Were I an ascii artist, and if I thought what I draw on my
machine would look the same on your machine, I'd draw this.  But....
Good luck!

- Mike

 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************
  Michael E. Thompson (MichaelT@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com)
                       T/L 678-0779  (512) 838-0779
                       IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:09 EST 1997
Article: 183935 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Grizzly Sander?  WAS: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander???
Message-ID: <3303335C.644@qgraph.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:29:32 -0600
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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I posted an article about what people thought about the Delta benchtop
sander and the feedback I got was that it's easier to stall making it
not real good for large scale use.  One suggestion for saving $$ on a
larger one was to look at Grizzly.  Grizzly still has a presidents
special on their 6x48/9" disc sander.  It is on a stand and has 3/4 Hp. 
PRice is $169 and for me $50 shipping.  

Anyone have experience with this sander??
Thanks
DAmian



From EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:10 EST 1997
Article: 183936 of rec.woodworking
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From: EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Slipage!
Date: 13 Feb 1997 15:23:59 GMT
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In <33026AC1.2A81@worldchat.com>, Frank Faubert <ffaubert@worldchat.com> writes:

>Brad R Tallis wrote:
>> : deep.  As I would rout, the depth adjust would slip and allow

>Just a thought, is the collet and bit clean and tight?

Also as has been discussed here, if you look at the router bit shank you'll
see a slight (or maybe not-so-slight) flare where the shank meets the bit
body.
If you sink the bit all the way into the collet, only the upper edge of the
collet will actually grip that flared portion of the shank.  This might
be contributing to the loosening problem.
Pull the bit out of the collet by enough (1/16 - 1/8 inch) to get parallel
surfaces in contact when you tighten.

I just got some new 1/2 inch panel raising bits and the flare is very
noticable, which made me think to be careful to do this when I use them.

- Mike

 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************
  Michael E. Thompson (MichaelT@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com)
                       T/L 678-0779  (512) 838-0779
                       IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************



From charles_sampson@sra.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:11 EST 1997
Article: 183937 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:51:41 -0600
From: charles_sampson@sra.com
Subject: Kilns
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855838177.31501@dejanews.com>
Reply-To: charles_sampson@sra.com
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Hi,

I have been searching the archives in dejanews for kiln information.  I
noticed that there were several threads about kilns and kiln plans in the
last couple of years.  I am close to finishing a bandsaw mill (still have
a few bugs to work out) and now I have to start thinking about a kiln.  I
thought about both dehumidifying and solar and was wondering if anyone
here had built a solar kiln.  For those of you who have build one what are
some pointers you would give before starting?  What would you do different
if you had to build another? How is the maintainance?  How is the lumber
quality?

Would any one be willing to send me the plans you used?

I have sent off for the WOOD magazine back issues that cover kilns and
give plans.  Did anyone build this? Anyone have comments about that
design?

Would I be better off building a dehumidifying kiln?  I really don't think
I will need the extra speed and would prefer not to loose 10% of my lumber
like the big lumber yards.  And, it's more expensive to build and operate
because of the heating.

I had thought about building a solar kiln with a heat source. Any thoughts
about that?

Thanks for all you help and comments.

Charlie Sampson
charles_sampson@sra.com

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From davidsloan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:13 EST 1997
Article: 183938 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 15:53:05 GMT
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<<On oscillating spindle sanders, >>

Ryobi, Delta and Clayton all make benchtop oscillating spindle sanders.

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker mag


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:13 EST 1997
Article: 183939 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 10:54:08 UNDEFINED
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In article <gboggs-120297150410@grunge.advtech.uswest.com> gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs) writes:
>From: gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs)
>Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
>Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:09:21 GMT


>> 
>> >haubert@mbi.org wrote:
>>  
>> >> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
>> >> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
>> >> less fancy tools.

>[...]

>Two-bit cable channel? Maybe you're right. And maybe the reason they're
>two-bit is because they aren't whining at me several times a year like some
>Mercedes-deprived televangelist trying to pry fifty bucks out of my credit
>card for a cheesy - sorry, I meant *fabulous* - coffee mug. And, lawdy
>sakes, they don't send me a bunch of junk mail.


You are absolutely right about public TV stations.   I once told them I would 
send them a check every year if they would NEVER bother me again, but of 
course they don't work that way.  

But I was not implying that public TV was necessarily better than HGTV.  I 
only said HGTV was 'two-bit'.  This means they are small and 
low-budget.  If you equate that with bad, OK, but I don't, necessarily.

The point is, it doesn't take much $$ at all to start a cable station showing 
reruns.  Thus, the proliferation of such.

Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:14 EST 1997
Article: 183940 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:02:49 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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Message-ID: <haubert.115.0012D118@mbi.org>
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In article <5dtmmj$d7d@enquirer.corp.adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
>From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
>Subject: Re: blade guards
>Date: 13 Feb 1997 00:19:31 GMT


Bennett writes:

>The truth is that in our real world there is danger in everything. The
>goal as I see it is to manage the risk knowledgably. How important are your 
>fingers? If it's absolutely essential that you never cut them, then you 
>should not engage in woodworking. If you don't mind losing a few, then run 
>power tools without guards or push sticks since you'll work faster and 
>easier (until your accident, at any rate).

>Most of us are in the middle. We want to take precautions that are affordable
>AND don't make woodworking much more difficult. Stock guards as they
>come often do make woodworking more difficult. 

>But, where price is important, tuning the guards and/or augmenting them 
>with shopbuilt guards is worth it as much as tuning your miter gauge bar, 
>aligning your rip fence, etc. If you don't think it's possible, check out
>an old video tape "Small Shop Tips with Jim Cummins," where he uses the 
>stock guard for many tablesaw cuts.

>Others with more resources might want to look into the aftermarket guards. 
>I've got an overarm guard on my saw that, combined with a rising splitter, 
>makes most operations (including narrow angled rips, dadoes, etc.) safe 
>enough for me. Many others feel this way, too.

>The important thing is to decide where on the continuum from no guards
>to no woodworking you lie, basing your decision on knowledge, not blind
>"guards suck" or "you're stupid if you don't use guards" sayings.


Bennett, excellent article.  Probably the best-written piece on this subject 
I've read.

Nice job!  I really get tired of the 'you're stupid' posts, as well.

Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:15 EST 1997
Article: 183941 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:11:08 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
Lines: 40
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In article <5du0ks$eus@fido.asd.sgi.com> mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) writes:
>From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
>Subject: Re: Antique tiger wood secretary
>Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:09:16 GMT


>> On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 05:36:05 GMT, Tim Taylor wrote:
>> 
>>>I have an antique secretary that appears to made from tiger wood. I
>>>have heard of tiger wood maple. Are there any other types of wood that
>>>have this tiger wood effect? Is it  maple the only type? Unfortunately
>>>my father stained it with a dark walnut or early american stain many
>>>years ago. I am not sure what brand or type. If I use a stripper to
>>>remove the stain will the wood appear as light colored as unstained
>>>tiger maple? If not, is there anyway to remove the stain completely?
>>>What kind of stripper would be best to use for the stain removal.   
>> 

>  Is that what tigerwood is? A variety of maple? The lumber yard has a sample
>panel made out of "tigerwood" that looks gorgeous!


'Tiger' is a figure oddity, not a wood.  Labeling something 'tigerwood' is 
just confusing, and probably done out of ignorance.  Other woods can have the 
tiger feature, just as they can be bird's-eye, flame, curly, etc.  Maple is 
just the most common wood to have these 'deformities'.


>That's what I'd really like
>to build my computer desk out of but I couldn't find any of it around there.
>They had zebrawood marked but no tigerwood. I'm going to have to go back and
>check out the maples again.


Tiger maple isn't going to be cheap.  I wouldn't use it for something as 
trendy as a computer desk, unless you use a traditional, multi-use design.  
Zebrawood is actually a species of tropical wood - real damn expensive.

Rich



From polytrap@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:16 EST 1997
Article: 183942 of rec.woodworking
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From: polytrap@aol.com (Polytrap)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ultimate irony. Was (Re: Some disturbing news
Date: 13 Feb 1997 16:16:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Sigh.............. I just read thirty posts on this lame newsgroup, none
of which had anything to do with woodworking. Why don't you rename this
one "Shitheads flaming each other"? None of this useless bickering
pertains to making sawdust. Does anyone say anything about woodworking
here? I, for one, am disappointed that every newsgroup I have subscribed
to invariably sinks to petty pot shots having nothing to do with the
supposed subject matter. If bullshit were money, newsgroups would be the
killer app of the internet.


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:17 EST 1997
Article: 183943 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:17:56 UNDEFINED
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In article <MPG.d66b297addea8bc9896cc@news.igs.net> danmar*@igs.net (daniel marois) writes:
>From: danmar*@igs.net (daniel marois)
>Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
>Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:08:39 -0500

>In article <haubert.102.00138663@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org says...

>> >which you don't know. If you are thinking of the Lamello Top 10 you 
>> >are without a doubt a member of a very small group who don't believe 
>> >it's the best joiner on the market. Of course for the price it should 
>> >be.


This means, to me, that the lamello is significantly more expensive than all 
others.

>> 
>> Well, that's questionable.  The Lamello hasn't improved like the others, so 
>> the advantage of it has dwindled down to practically nothing.  It IS 
>> underpowered.  The Dewalt is a MUCH better buy.

This means that the Lamello is MUCH more expensive than the Dewalt.


>Are we talking about the same model? Up here there is a difference of 
>hundreds of dollars between the Top 10 and the DeWalt. You guys seem 
>to be saying that there is only a few dollars difference.


Not in my mind.  Seems clear enough that we both agreed that the top 10 is way 
more money.  And, in fact, it is.


>Anyway, to paraphrase Jerry Pournelle, the DeWalt is plenty good 
>enough.


Well, that depends.  'Good enough' is different for everybody.  If the top 10 
were an equivalent value to the dewalt, it would get recommended, and the 
dewalt would not be 'good enough' for those who just have to have the best.

Rich



From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:18 EST 1997
Article: 183944 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels? (Frank K.)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 15:48:13 GMT
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The reason it won't turn is because the dado depth is less than the
diameter of the dowel, causing the 2 X 4 to keep pressure on the dowel.
-- 
Best -- Frank



From mpautz@interserv.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:18 EST 1997
Article: 183945 of rec.woodworking
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From: mpautz@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 1 to 3 phase converter info
Date: 13 Feb 1997 03:10:59 GMT
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I am interested in where to obtain information on how static and rotory single to three phase converters 
work.  I currently have a text book on a simple static converter using a run capacitor, a switch, and a 
start capacitor.  

There must be more info on making the starting more automatic.  I haven't found anything on rotary 
converters.

Thank you in advance.


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:19 EST 1997
Article: 183946 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:23:56 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <19970213071400.CAA07494@ladder01.news.aol.com> paulinmo@aol.com (Paul in MO) writes:
>From: paulinmo@aol.com (Paul in MO)
>Subject: How fancy a table saw?
>Date: 13 Feb 1997 07:14:40 GMT

>        I am trying to decide just how nice of a table saw to buy.. I am a
>newcomer to the hobby, but expect to get into it deep, if history is any
>indication. Also, I run towards the perfectionist (read, anal
>retnentive?), for what it's worth. 
>        Now, reading some posts here, one would get the impression that
>anything less than a $2000 saw won't really be satisfactory in the long
>run for the serious hobbyist, who wants to make nice cabinetry, etc. Do
>you agree? Why?


Nah.  A unisaw is currently $1600, I think.  PM and General are a little bit 
more.

I can't recommend a newbie to buy this level of saw, though, unless you have 
enough money to take the loss if woodworking ain't your cup of tea.

Another disadvantage of the 3HP cabinet saws is that they are potentially more 
dangerous - which would be of concern to someone inexperienced.  Kickback is 
more likely to cause injury, since a standard CS will frequently stall before 
it sends the piece flying.

I would recommend a CS level saw, especially the Delta and Jet.  These are 
full -size saws with 27" deep cast iron tables, belt drive, and 1.5HP 
induction motors.  They will last for decades with minimal maintenance.  Price 
is $500 to $800.

Rich




From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:20 EST 1997
Article: 183947 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish on my good desk!
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:27:08 UNDEFINED
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In article <3302B91C.32C1@earthlink.net> Gary Cervenka <gjcservices@earthlink.net> writes:
>From: Gary Cervenka <gjcservices@earthlink.net>
>Subject: Spar Varnish on my good desk!
>Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:47:56 -0800

>My wife has put spar varnish on my good desk for my valintines present.
>I dont want to re-strip it It will break her heart. What can i do?
>She used Mc Closkey's Man-o-War Spar Varnish .
>I can't find a web site for them or I would ask someone there...HELP!!!


What a heart-breaker!  Spar varnish is not real easy to strip, anyway.  The 
only alternative is to smile, kiss her, and live with it.  Wives are more 
important than finishes.

Someday someone will say 'why the hell did they put spar varnish on this?'

Rich



From mkpopp@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:21 EST 1997
Article: 183948 of rec.woodworking
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From: mkpopp@ix.netcom.com (Mark Popp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 16:26:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay) wrote:

>In article <33002E48.1389@worldnet.att.net>, kitatt@worldnet.att.net says...
>>
>>I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
>>mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
>>Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
>>screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
>>tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.
>>
>>In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
>>locktite yet, but will.
>>
>>Any other suggestions?

Is what I would do is drill and tap for another setscrew 90
degrees on the shaft from the first one.  Heavy duty pulleys
often come this way, (setscrews at 12 and 3 o'clock, 
or 12 and 9).
Mark P.



From perk@ris.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:22 EST 1997
Article: 183949 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Proctor <perk@ris.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Software for Woodworking
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:27:49 -0700
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:183949

Ken Horner wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of a good software program for laying out  plans and
> providing the material list.

Have you looked at Design Cad by ViaGrafix? I never cut a stick without 
it. You can check out demos at www.ViaGrafix.com. However, you are 
likely to find much better prices from dealers than ViaGrafix quotes on 
their web page. I don't have any experience with other programs, so I 
can't suggest alternatives.

Jim


From ski@bnr.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:23 EST 1997
Article: 183950 of rec.woodworking
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From: ski@bnr.ca (Greg Luptowski)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table top jointers (Delta 37-070)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 16:12:05 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, TX
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I have the Ryobi J333? It has variable speed, two blades. In a review
way back when, it was rated number one as far as table units, due
mostly in part to its capable high speed. It puts on a very smooth
finish. The only downfall I found from these units is its table
length is rather short, which is easier for you cup the edge.

My $.02

Greg 
ski@nortel.com


Tandy Penn (tpenn@dallas.net) wrote:
: I am thinking about getting a table top jointer, as I don't have room for a
: floor model in my shop. The only ones I know of are the AMT line, which I
: don't like, and the Delta 37-070, which I don't know anything about.
: Anybody have any information on the Delta ?

: Thanks
:   Tandy Penn


: ================================================
: Tandy Penn      inet:       tpenn@plano.net
: Richardson, Tx. compuserve: 74720,1333

: "Beware of programmers that carry screwdrivers."
:                     \|/
:                     @ @
: ----------------oOO-(_)-OOo---------------------


From mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:24 EST 1997
Article: 183951 of rec.woodworking
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From: mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 13 Feb 1997 13:47:15 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame
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Ken Stovesand (kenst@mindspring.com) wrote:
: I disagree that using tools on PBS is not advertising just because they
: avoid a certain form of slogan. Do you really think that anyone would be
: swayed to go buy a Unisaw if only they mentioned something like "it's
: great"? Regardless, at the beginning they have a pretty good facsimile
: of a commercial message for insurance, local woodworking stores, Delta,
: etc.  Why don't these shows just go on a commercial station and give up
: this PBS sham?

How do people suppose these shows get produced and displayed on PBS?
They money the average joe sends into the stations isn't going to cover
this.  If we restrict PBS to only those shows the general public is
going to pay for then we'll have 24hours of the Red Green Show (I'm not
slamming the show...no flames please...but duct tape doesn't cost that
much).  Yes when I watch NYWS before it starts I see an ad for Johnson's
Workbench (local woodworkers store) and Delta and Porter Cable power tools.
But, as was mentioned, Norm doesn't spend one bit of his time telling you
to buy the Delta brand bandsaw because that's the only one that works for
him and he doesn't tell me I have to use a PC router to get the perfect
round over.  As a matter of fact he doesn't spend much time talking
about the tools at all.  He shows you how he's using them.  

Now when you watch the Frugal Gourmet he will often tell you what specific
brand of something or other you should use.  This isn't from advertising
pressure (at least not obviously) but from a genuine need for a recipie.

Mike

-- 
Mike Buening 
Dept. of Chemistry and Biochemistry
University of Notre Dame
mbuening@argon.helios.nd.edu        http://www.nd.edu/~mbuening


From RMC@chem.psu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:24 EST 1997
Article: 183952 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Crable <RMC@chem.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Construction of Solid Core door?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:29:02 -0800
Organization: The Pennsylvania State University
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Doug,
  I've just finished making some workbench tops and a router table from
some solid core doors I got from salvage here at Penn State.  Turns out
the cores are pine, tongue and grooved from pieces about 3 inches wide,
with oak dowels to hold them all together.  The ones I have work great,
are very heavy, and were cheap at $5 each.  Couldn't begin to think of
buying particle board and laminating it for that price.
  Good luck with your woodworking.
  Bob Crable


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:25 EST 1997
Article: 183953 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Central Dust collection system.
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:01:55 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
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Hi, me again, with another newbe question. 

I'm setting up my new Jet DC650 as a central vac system. I realize that it's 
not big enough for all my units at once so I am setting it up with blast gates 
on every unit. 10"CS,12"Planar,6"Jointer,12"Power Miter,12"Bandsaw,6x48"Sander
and a custom router table fence port.

My question is: Where do I get 2-1/2" dust collection hose for my smaller 
ports? I measured standard 2-1/2" shop vac hose but it is actually 2-1/4".

Lonnie



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:26 EST 1997
Article: 183954 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:57:51 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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You might try 'Lamp Black'. Farmers use it to put on wooden roof
shingles. Try one of the ariculture supply houses in your area for it.


From dickmac@ Sat Feb 15 11:47:27 EST 1997
Article: 183955 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: advice on MDF
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 10:04:19 -0700
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:57:36 -0800, Tim Gillespie <tgillesp@mail.tds.net> may
have written:

>David Meiland wrote:
>> 
>> Why not sheetrock? It will be much cheaper and easier to hang. I can't
>> imagine wanting to countersink all the screws necessary to hang MDF on
>> the lid... but if you do, seal it (including edges after you cut each
>> piece) and don't use a water-based product on it--it will fuzz up on
>> you...
>> 
>> DM
>> 
>> ken <100611.1526@compuserve.com> wrote:
>> 
>> >A friend wants to panel his bathroom and is thinkng of MDF (due to
>> >cheapness). I'm not sure whether it will cope with humidity.
>> 
>> >Does anyone have any experience of say, sealing BOTH sides before
>> >hanging it??
>
>
>Better yet, try greenboard. This is sheetrock with a water resistant
>paper.
>
>Tim
Greenboard (or Greenrock) is required by the building code in most U.S.
cities for Bathroom use. I wouldn't recommend MDF for a wall covering in such
potentially wet areas. Use greenrock.
Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:28 EST 1997
Article: 183956 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears Craftsman Warrantee
Message-ID: <8D1F217.0233012864.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 08:55:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
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Why dont you call SEARS and ask the your question? Seems like they could
help ya! If yer unit has a Serial number on it then Sears will know what
to do about it.
                            Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:29 EST 1997
Article: 183957 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Message-ID: <8D1F214.0233012863.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 08:52:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Get a HANDSAW and learn howto use it instead,Or just buy the best
powersaw-After all a decent powersaw only costs the same as a decent
computer setup. Get one with a lot of Doo-Dads on it to impress yer
friends..
                        Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From dickmac@ Sat Feb 15 11:47:30 EST 1997
Article: 183958 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwood Grading?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 10:08:19 -0700
Organization: Dimensional Communications
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On 10 Feb 1997 17:17:15 GMT, explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2) may have written:

>Well, this may be a dumb question, but one that I haven't seen posted in a
>while. Can anyone give us a comprehensive review of the wood grading
>system and what is allowed for each grade? i.e.- FAS, S4S, S2S, Select,
>1C, etc.

Note that S4S and S2S are not grades. These abbreviations stand for "Surfaced
4 sides" and "Surfaced 2 sides" and tell nothing about the quality of the
wood. As to grades, there are two systems, one for hardwoods and one for
softwoods. Someone else mentioned a source or two for getting exactly what
they mean.
Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From jbd@trans1.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:31 EST 1997
Article: 183959 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Daines <jbd@trans1.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hardware
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:12:23 -0800
Organization: ForPro, LLC
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Can anyone recommend a good source for cabinet hardware?  Also I am
looking for a good source for exotic and european hardwoods. Small
quantities from some kind of mail order service.


From NOT@gonna.tel Sat Feb 15 11:47:32 EST 1997
Article: 183960 of rec.woodworking
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From: NOT@gonna.tel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:20:00 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 97 08:52:00 -0600, lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) wrote:

>Get a HANDSAW and learn howto use it instead,Or just buy the best
>powersaw-After all a decent powersaw only costs the same as a decent
>computer setup. Get one with a lot of Doo-Dads on it to impress yer
>friends..
>                        Lee Ward

Oh, and  would a TI-99 be suffice for your setup (noted the blatent show-off of
20 gigs and 21 Cd-roms below ) the "Mine is Better than yours attitude" does a
lot to help this group or others out.  Why dont you go back and play on your
computer and leave the woodworking to people who like REAL toys.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
>
>         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
Keith

(oh, shall I add a tag line: 1 Altendorf F45 Elmo Class 3000 Sliding Panel Saw
with digital fences, servo controled fencing system, 1 Altendorf F90  2800 with
digital X and Y axis?)  OR do you even KNOW what a REAL saw is?

Care to compare your $800 comsumer JET CS with a $20,000 Altendorf Elmo Sliding
panel?  Would be a little inappropriate, don't you think?  Then try to keep the
remarks positive.



>



From williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:33 EST 1997
Article: 183961 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ron Williams <williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Lathe
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:05:31 -0600
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Harold Clemens wrote:
> 
> Mike      atlas was bought out years ago  by clausing  2019 n. pitcher
> st
> kalamazoo mi 49001
> i have a 12" atlas and can still get parts  they also have parts for your
> 6" lathe      call the 800 operator for their number
> 
>                                                                 clem

I also bought an old Atlas lathe and was told to contact Clausing.  They 
still had support for their metal lathes, but I was told they no longer 
supported their wood lathes.  That was last summer, and I never got past 
the secretary, so I may be wrong.

Good luck!
RKW


From wpav@gic.gi.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:33 EST 1997
Article: 183962 of rec.woodworking
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From: William Pav <wpav@gic.gi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:26:34 -0500
Organization: General Instruments Communications Division
Lines: 37
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John Paquay wrote:
> 
> In article <5dsl86$kir@thor.pla-net.net>, eladendo says...
> 
> >Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How do I
> >do it without getting hurt?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Ed
> >
> 
> I like these kinds of questions, so I'll have a stab at it, primarily because this
> is such a frightening one...
> 
> Don't try this method until you get more feedback.
> 
> This is how I'd do it:  Go to a good lumber supply and buy half-rounds.
> 
> I can think of a few ways to rip dowels.  Unfortunately, I wouldn't recommend
> them to anybody because they're very complicated, and if not set up perfectly,
> very dangerous...
> 
> --
> John Paquay
> jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
> http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
> -----------------------
> Without my wings you know I'd surely die...

How about taking two 4' scrap pieces of 1x2, and ripping a 3/4" wide,
3/8" deep rabbet in each the center of each. Then make a sandwich
out of the dowel and scraps such that the dowel is now securely
'embedded' in a 2x2. Glue the 1x2s - I wouldn't use mmetal fasteners
in case you hit them with the saw blad. Then rip the 2x2 and the
enclosed dowel.

Buying half-round will work only if you can find the size and species.


From btallis@cv.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:34 EST 1997
Article: 183963 of rec.woodworking
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From: btallis@cv.hp.com (Brad R Tallis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Slipage!
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:43:13 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
Lines: 32
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Mike Thompson (EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com) wrote:
: In <33026AC1.2A81@worldchat.com>, Frank Faubert <ffaubert@worldchat.com> writes:

: >Brad R Tallis wrote:
: >> : deep.  As I would rout, the depth adjust would slip and allow

: >Just a thought, is the collet and bit clean and tight?


Just a follow-up.  I got my Ryobi router replaced.  It definately
was the depth guage lock that was the problem.  I could watch
the depth guage rotate around as I routed.  I had to hold it in
place with a finger.  Not very safe in my opinion.  So I traded
it in for a Plunge router.  Used it last night.  I like it.  It
will definately speed up some of my projects.  

I always seat the bit to the bottom of the collet, then pull it
back out about 1/4".  I try not to overtighten the collet, but
I also make sure the bit won't slip.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Brad

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--									   --
--  Brad Tallis					btallis@hpcvsgen.cv.hp.com --
--  Information Technology Specialist		         	           --
--  Hewlett-Packard, Inkjet Business Unit	         		   --
--  Corvallis, OR							   --
--									   --
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null Sat Feb 15 11:47:35 EST 1997
Article: 183964 of rec.woodworking
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From: jim mcnamara <csi_jimm@coopserv.com.null>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: staining oak endgrain
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 10:27:18 -0700
Organization: csi
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Whatever you try, practice on scraps first.

There are some options -
A. try a gel stain, like Bartley's, over a washcoat of 
   #1 shellac.  This will still provide a darker area on 
   endgrain.  But contrasts will be a whole lot less.
   Overall staining color denisty will be very light.
B. Finish with padding lacquer (or wiping varnish). Let it cure
   for several days. Sand with 600 grit.
   Then spray on a very dilute toner made
   from #1 shellac and alcohol soluble dyes.  Spray several-many
   coats until you have to color you need to match the posts.
   Do not sand between coats.
   If you need dark & light areas (in coves, for example)
   you can apply a darker glaze with a small brush to those areas.
   Let it cure for at least 48 hours, then apply a topcoat.
   This will provide no darkening on endgrain at all.
   And you can get any color density you need.  

If you have not already finished the posts, it would be a good idea
to use exactly the same methodology on your posts as you chose for
your finials, whatever it is.

jim mcnamara

L Anthony Whitney wrote:
> 
> I've turned several ball top finials for railing posts.  Now I want to
> stain them.  How can I prevent the end grain from turning almost black?
> Will staining over shellac do the job? TIA Tony.


From marktrom@rust.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:36 EST 1997
Article: 183965 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Mark Trombley" <marktrom@rust.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: 9 Feb 1997 03:12:51 GMT
Organization: Rust Net - High Speed Internet in Detroit  810-642-2276
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whylandj@kodak.com wrote in article <5dabn7$r8f@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>...
> I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw.  I
have 
> no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one to
buy. 
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff Whyland
> Rochester, NY
> 
> 
I believe that Jet restricts you to a 6" diameter dado because of the
arbor design (check your manual).  This is the case on both the JTAS
and JWCS models.  Both Forrest and Freud make excellent 6"
fine and super fine stacked dados.  Freud also has a new adjustable
"Super" dado available in 6" but I have read nothing about it yet.  Amana
and Sysmatic (Spelling?) also make very high quality dados.  I would
recommend staying away from the "wobble" type dados as they will
not cut a flat bottom and the edges will not be as clean as a good
stacked dado.

Mark T.


From aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:37 EST 1997
Article: 183966 of rec.woodworking
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From: Aaron Ionta <aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish on my good desk!
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:50:31 -0600
Organization: IntraNet Solutions Inc.
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> What a heart-breaker!  Spar varnish is not real easy to strip, anyway.  The
> only alternative is to smile, kiss her, and live with it.  Wives are more
> important than finishes.

AMEN !!

> 
> Someday someone will say 'why the hell did they put spar varnish on this?'
> 
> Rich

-- 
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////////////
                      @
////////////////////// \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Aaron R. Ionta

IntraNet Solutions Inc.
9625 West 76th St. Suite #150
Eden Prairie, Minnesota 55344

aaron.ionta@intranetsol.com

Support Phone 888-688-8324 - Toll Free
              612-903-2020
Direct Line   612-903-2032


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:37 EST 1997
Article: 183967 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: clamps
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:57:51 GMT
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I hate pipe clamps and will not have any in my shop. I sold my pipe
clamps years ago and have never looked back.

Yeah, as one poster stated, there are ways around the staining problem, 
and there are ways around their tendency to pull things out of alignment, 
and there are ways to avoid crushing your project, and you have to be careful 
not to bend the pipe, but my feeling is why bother with a tool that has such 
serious deficiencies? You can cut wood with a direct drive bench top tablesaw, 
too., but none of us here recommend them unless budget forces you to.

Many of us spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on things like hand 
planes, tablesaws, duct collectors, chisels, vises, etc.. We should budget 
accordingly for clamps. 

Like some others who have posted, I've got a nice set of Bessey K-Body 
clamps (the Gross-Stabil clones are reported to be good, too). These
clamps are strong, the jaws are large, they are quick to adjust, they 
don't stain your work, they don't crush your work: they're simply a
pleasure to use. A good starter set for furniture making would be 2 each of 
the 12", 24", 30", and 40" sizes. Yeah, we're talking well about $250 in 
clamps, but I easily use them more than I use my $325 chopsaw. 

If budget constrains you, then, depending on what you build, start with
the larger sizes. You can always use them for smaller work, you just have
to work around the bars, which is inconvenient, but more do-able than
dealing with all the stuff you have to deal with when using pipe clamps.
However, I'll tell you that I use my 12" clamps the most often, followed
by the 40" size (I've been building entry doors recently).

Forget any clamp with a swivel jaw tip. If you've got any kind of angled
work, the clamp will slip off anyway. For angled work, handscrews are
the best I've found - or cut wedges for your parallel jawed clamps.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From dmc@cyburban.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:38 EST 1997
Article: 183968 of rec.woodworking
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From: dcm <dmc@cyburban.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Chess sets?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:51:52 -0800
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I am still seeking information about turning/carving chess sets.
Anyone done it or know any articles or books on the subject.
-- 
From: White Plains, New York, USA.


From tiafolla@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:39 EST 1997
Article: 183969 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tim Iafolla <tiafolla@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:23:00 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 16
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> 
> I too order things that UPS/Fed-Ex wants me to sign for or they will not
> deliver.  And actually I would not want them to leave computer
> components
> that I order or anything else that costs me significant dollars on my
> front
> porch all day.  I ask the companies that I order from to please deliver
> to
> my work address.  So far they are quite willing to do this.
> 

Last year I ordered a Gateway computer.  The UPS guy wasn't comfortable
leaving 3 large cow-spotted boxes on the front porch in plain sight.  So
he had a brainstorm and left them under our back porch...where they sat
for several days in the cold and rain while I called Gateway and bitched
about my computer not arriving.


From dburns@queens.org Sat Feb 15 11:47:40 EST 1997
Article: 183970 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dennis Burns <dburns@queens.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 08:22:56 -0800
Organization: The Queen's Medical Center
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Message-ID: <33033FE0.3F0C@queens.org>
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plathrop wrote:
> 
> Alan P. Kefauver <apk2@home.com> wrote in article
> <32ffd3aa.201586195@news>...
> > I buy (bought) all my Dewalt tools from the B&D serviice center. Each
> > has a sticker that says factory reconditioned. Saved a lot and have
> > had no trouble.
> > 3 sanders, an electric hand planer, 3 drills, 2 routers, 2 circular
> > saws, and a jig saw.
> >
> >
> > deaneg@aol.com (DeanEG) wrote:
> >
> > >I have purchased both dewalt 12V drill and saw and each arrived without
> > >narry a scratch or a cosmetic element suggesting previous exposure to
> the
> > >air much less any use. They have been perfect. I would recommend them
> any
> > >time. The warranty is the same and they are absolutely indistinguishable
> > >from brand new.
> 
> I bought (reconditioned) a 12v saw and drill kit($219) but it got swiped
> before I could use it.  2 monthes later I went back got a  14.4v saw and
> drill kit($224 my brother and I think they put the wrong price on it at the
> B&D service center, we think it was suppose to be $324). I use them almost
> every day no problem.  Many drywall screws and the saw works great to.  I
> even got my bose(father-in-law) to buy the same drill(reconditioned).  I
> want to get another one but the B&D service centers will no longer sell the
> reconditioned Dewalt tools.  They are selling them to Habor freight and
> NorthernH.
> 
> Paul
> 

Don't you wonder where all these reconditioned tools from Dewalt are
coming from?.


From mlehman@omnifest.uwm.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:41 EST 1997
Article: 183971 of rec.woodworking
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From: mlehman@omnifest.uwm.edu (Mark W. Lehman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: scroll saw questions
Date: 13 Feb 1997 12:26:49 -0600
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Hi Folks, am just getting started in woodworking and have some
questions about making the mini clock designs that are always
found in many of the common woodworking magazines. I have made
several of them now and enjoy maaking them very much. So far
I have only given them away as gifts but was wondering if it 
is legal or ethical to make them from someone elses design and
sell them, maybe at craft shows? If anyone has done this I would
be interested in how popular they are and what a fair price is.

Also need advice on what you folks consider to be the best 
quality blades as I have noticed very large differences in
the quality of ones I have bought and used. I don't notice
much difference using the skip tooth blades and was wondering
what purpose they are intended for. I do like the reverse tooth
blades as they make for a clean backside with no splintering.
Also found rounding off the back edges of the blade helps
alot. Any other tips?...especially in cutting thicker wood,
I seem to be having problems with the thicker wood especially
in making any tight turns and at times I burn the wood quite a
bit.

Any other ideas for selling scroll saw crafts that might be
popular? I have been considering whirligigs especially
since the spring and summer season are aproaching.

Lots of questions, I know, but any thoughts ideas or info
would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely, Mark Lehman   mlehman@omnifest.uwm.edu



From B.WINGARD@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:42 EST 1997
Article: 183972 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob <B.WINGARD@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:39:05 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Dennis Burns wrote:

> Don't you wonder where all these reconditioned tools from Dewalt are
> coming from?.

I asked the DeWalt factory rep the same thing while attending a sidewalk
clearance sale at the outlet store in Pigeon Forge TN. last year.   Most
of the stuff is damaged cartons/boxes that, by company policy cannot be
re-packaged and sold as new . . . it is re-packed into generic white
boxes and sodl as "REFURBISHED".   Most of what is sold in original
yellow boxes is either true customer-returned refurbs, and/or new stuff
that was discovered to be flawed during routine quality qontrol
inspections while still in-process at the factory.   The entire lot is
pulled from normal distribution and dis-assembled/checked for the known
or suspected flaw, then re-packaged and sold as "REFURBISHED".  In
reality, only a very small percentage of the refurb. stuff has ever been
in the hands of a customer.
-- 
						<<< BOB >>>

Q: What do you get when you cross a crooked lawyer with a sleazy
politician ?
A: Chelsea Clinton !


From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:47:43 EST 1997
Article: 183973 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 03:14:02 -0500
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 <3301C55F.1085@sadust.hill.com>
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 12-Feb-97 Re: Cat
Condo/scratching posts by Termite@sadust.hill.com 
> Ernest Shipley wrote:
> 
> > >
> > > jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net
> > Lisa, go to several pet stores and look at some of the ones they have to
> > give you ideas on the many designs available. Also, my wife gets a
> > catalog from a company called "Doctors Foster Smith" that has a
> > multitude of that sort of stuff. Their fone # is 800-826-7206. I'm sure
> > they would love to send you a catalog. Hope this helps.
> > Ernie
> 
> Many times I've seen items in the store that I thought would make a
> great project. I often either have a tape with me, or next time I go I
> take it with me. I'll sit there and take measurements and make my rough
> draft of plans - then later make the finial drawings and make the item.
> At first, and still at times, this seems a little wierd and some of the
> sales people don't really like it - but what the hey, we all have to
> have some fun in life.

    Having seen the prices on these in the stores, (about $50-350!) I'd
like to make one for my monster.  My real question is, what to use to
adhere the carpet to the wood?  I've seen some of them tack it on, but
with the way a cat scratches at them, these tend to fall apart very
quickly.

    Suggestions?

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From djs2@well.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:43 EST 1997
Article: 183974 of rec.woodworking
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From: djs2@well.com (Donald Stern)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for Sears Table-Saw Insert?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:28:46 GMT
Organization: The Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link, Sausalito, CA
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Neil,

I have an old Sears TS and made a couple of zero clearance plates out of 
plywood and they work just fine.

Don

Neil asked-for-it Gieselman (giese012@maroon.tc.umn.edu) wrote:
: I have one of the older Sears tablesaws (about 6 years old).  On these
: saws, Sears decided to make the table insert thinner than a lot of the
: other companies out there.  Does anyone have suggestions on what
: material to use to make a zero-clearance plate for these machines?
: Bill.
:  (real address is bmackin at netins.net)


From pyr@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:44 EST 1997
Article: 183975 of rec.woodworking
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From: pyr@mindspring.com (pyr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Catalog with Jet or Grizzly
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:51:15 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 16
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Jet homepage at-- http://www.jettools.com/

"User Name" <bstargle@microsoft.com> wrote:

>request one at http://www.grizzlyimports.com it should arrive within three
>days.  They have a great catalog can't say on quality though.

>damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote in article
><33008A3A.372@qgraph.com>...
>> Awrobinson wrote:
>> > 
>> > Can anyone point out one or more catalogs containing
>> > tools from Jet or Grizzly? > 
>> 




From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:47:45 EST 1997
Article: 183976 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 03:17:28 -0500
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo
Oil??? by bob6666@worldnet.att.net 
> John Levin wrote:
> > 
> > In article <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com>,
mikehide@mindspring.com says...
> 
> > 
> > > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> > >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
> > >[another wood ] of politicians .
> > 
> > Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from
squeaking.
> 
> Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).

    C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight answer!

    Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for fine wood finishing.  It
is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal process,
in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:46 EST 1997
Article: 183977 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:42:56 GMT
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"Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com> writes
>... I personally don't give a hoot about the history
> of the fence, I just want one with the features that appeal to me. That
> being said, the Delta comes out the clear winner. It's flatter, deflects
> less, can be used as a cut-off fence (with no cursor adjustment), comes
> off easier, can be replaced easier, etc.
> 
> NO CONTEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Enough's enough.

Almost all the aftermarket fences are very good - the differences between
them are mostly a matter of personal preference rather than absolute this
is better than that.

For instance, as Jack often points out, the Unifence's extrusion can be 
pulled back for use as a cut-off fence. This is kind of nice, except now
you've got over a foot of fence sticking out the front of your saw - in a 
cramped shop this could be more of a pain than attaching a 1" stop block
to your fence and "burning an inch" on the ruler. 

Then again, I take issue with this whole concept - my Inca fence does the 
exact same thing as the Unifence does and I NEVER use it. Think about it.
For cross-cutting one is using some jig in the miter slots - probably a miter
gauge or a cross-cut box. The reason you pull the fence forward or attach
a stop block is so that the off-cut isn't trapped between the blade and
the fence. Well, this "off-cut" has to be the piece you're cutting! That's
not ideal in my book - it means you need a really long original piece so
you can have enough on the miter guage or cross-cut box, which is on the
OTHER side of the blade. And, how do you cut your last piece? 

If your pieces are long enough, you simply place the miter gauge between
the rip fence and blade and cut. No need for fence pulling or stop blocks.
You're holding the stock to the miter gauge, and as long as your rip
fence is in proper alignment and your miter gauge doesn't have play, 
there will not be a problem. It's only when the pieces are too short that
you need to do this offcut thing - and for that you're better off with
a stop block on your miter gauge back fence or cross-cut box. Heck, you're
better off using a cross-cut box with a long back fence and stop block for
all the cross-cuts, which is what I do.


Yes, there are other comparisons to be made as well. The Unifence is 
repositionable into two positions, but the curved back makes it harder to 
attach secondary fences. Better yet is something like the Excalibur fence, 
which has T slots on the top. My Inca fence has T slots on top AND on the 
face, which makes doing this very straightforward.


Jack now claims that the Unifence comes off easier, which goes contrary 
to his previous quoting of the Wood mag article where they said the 
Biesemeyer comes off easier.


As for rigidity, let's get it straight. The Unifence does not deflect
less than the Biesemeyer, as Jack even admitted in a previous post. American 
Woodworker did a similar test a few years ago, and reported actual numbers 
(not just good/bad groupings), and the Unifence deflected more than the 
Biesemeyer. Sure, it depends on how much pressure and where along the fence 
the pressure is applied. If you want to argue that in actual use deflection 
doesn't matter, fine, but argue that, not that the Unifence is actually more 
rigid.


Of course, if rigidity is important to you, than something like the
Paraloc or Excalibur fences, which clamp both front AND rear, is what
you want. If parallelism and cursor accuracy is important, then the
Paraloc's cable-guided alignment is unsurpassed. If a smooth sliding
action is desired, the Excalibur can't be beat. If a simple fence with
a provision for holding down the rear (so you can use hold-downs) is
what you're looking for, the Vega is worth looking at. The Vega also
has a neat micro-adjuster.

There are many choices out there. Almost all will give you reasonably
accurate, parallel fence faces, which is the basic requirement. From
there it's a matter of personal preference and there is no clear 
winner for all.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From jiml@neosoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:47 EST 1997
Article: 183978 of rec.woodworking
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From: jiml@neosoft.com (Jim Ledbetter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:58:43 UNDEFINED
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In article <19970213071400.CAA07494@ladder01.news.aol.com> paulinmo@aol.com (Paul in MO) writes:
>From: paulinmo@aol.com (Paul in MO)
>Subject: How fancy a table saw?
>Date: 13 Feb 1997 07:14:40 GMT

>        I am trying to decide just how nice of a table saw to buy.. I am a
>newcomer to the hobby, but expect to get into it deep, if history is any
>indication. Also, I run towards the perfectionist (read, anal
>retnentive?), for what it's worth. 
[snip]

You might try looking around to find either a shop that will let you try some 
different saws or that offer classes where you'd use them.

I'll probably have to settle for a good contractor saw, but if I had the $$$ 
would go for a cabinet saw.  

I personally would pay very close attention to learning to use whatever saw 
correctly, as opposed to intentionally buying something that I could overpower 
to avoid kickbacks.

As to size... it depends on what you want to do with it and how much space you 
have.   I've never heard of anyone who wished they had a smaller fence, but 
plenty have found the limits of a standard 30" and wiched for more.

good hunting.. jim




From Dean_May@aussmtp.austin.ibm.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:48 EST 1997
Article: 183979 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dean_May@aussmtp.austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: oscillating Drum Sander? (AMT? OTHER?)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:59:26 GMT
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Current issue of ShopNotes has a shop built attachment with a 50RPM 
motor to make your drill press into an oscillating sander.

Dean May
Georgetown, TX


From dcrutchley@auburn.campus.mci.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:49 EST 1997
Article: 183980 of rec.woodworking
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From: Darrell Crutchley <dcrutchley@auburn.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Auto. Dust Collector Switch
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:55:18 -0600
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After seeing the new tool vacuum from Craftsman (and a couple of others) 
I got to wondering if a switch could be wired to operate a shop vacuum 
so that when you turn a tool on at its switch, the shop vac also turns 
on. I did find a similar switch that turns on a dust collector in the 
Jan/Feb 1988 Fine Woodworking in an article by Robert Terry. This switch 
has a sensor that senses current flowing out of the circuit breaker to 
the machinery that requires dust collection. This sensor then trips a 
relay that turns on the dust collector. I guess this system could be 
adapted for use with plugs and outlets rather than the circuit breaker, 
but I am wondering if there is a simpler solution. 

Does anyone know of a product you can purchase (or make) that will tie 
the operation of the shop vac to the operation of individual tools??

Thanks in advance.

Darrell


From rogueriv@cdsnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:50 EST 1997
Article: 183981 of rec.woodworking
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From: rogueriv@cdsnet.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Southern Oregon
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:09:40 -0800
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I am wondering how Many of you all are in the Southern Oregon Northern Ca. area?


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:51 EST 1997
Article: 183982 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 14:03:07 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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LEE WARD wrote:
> 
> Get a HANDSAW and learn howto use it instead,Or just buy the best
SNIP 

HEY ASSHOLE get lost !!!!


From tkester*@nei.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:52 EST 1997
Article: 183983 of rec.woodworking
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From: Terry Kester <tkester*@nei.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HQ's new no-questions return policy
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 14:24:33 -0500
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HQ (Home Quarters) is one of the big home centers in our area.  In their
latest bid to get business, they say they will take back any tool you
bring back (within 30 days, with a receipt) no questions asked, even if
you have used it and don't have the box for it.  I was just wondering if
anyone knows what they do with the tools you bring back?  I don't like
the sounds of this new policy.  I can either picture buying something
"new" only to find it's been used, or the manufacturers getting lots of
units back for refurb and thus raising our prices along the way.  Anyone
know the scoop?

Terry


From tgrissom@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:53 EST 1997
Article: 183984 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tim Grissom <tgrissom@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:38:33 -0500
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I have found there in the states (NC). In fact that is all I could find
for the type and length I needed. When My house was being built I went
behind the framing crew placing screws in the floors to help avoid the
notorious squeeking floor problems. Anyway I didn't realize what I
bought. When I got home I cursed because I did't have a driver for the
dang things. It turns out they provided one in the box for my cordless
driver. It sure worked great for what I was doing. Almost too good. When
using phillips screws usually when you hit the bottom the driver slips
out of the head and you know when it's time to stop. With the robertson
screws they either keep going (through the plywood or they snap the head
off (a real pain).  I'm sure the problem was I was using my electric
drill for the job instead of a electric screw driver....

So shoot me.

:)

-- 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The average person falls asleep in seven minutes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Timothy G. Grissom			(esn) 294-7496
Nortel (Northern Telecom)		(phone) (919) 991-7496
Research Triangle Park, NC		(internet) tgrissom@nortel.ca


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:54 EST 1997
Article: 183985 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need for extreme accuracy?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:27:57 GMT
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Mike Rainville writes:
> Is it me or deos it seem that people in this newsgroup are running around
> with calipers much more than is necessary?

It's you. ;^)


> I've known many woodworkers who...have been able to read 1/128" (7.8
> thousands...) off of a tape measure or folding rule...

Whoa! I can't. Can you? Most of those have 1/16" graduations. At any
rate, for many things I'll agree than 0.0078" is plenty accurate
enough. I'm sure most folding rules aren't made to anywhere near that
accuracy, btw. They're made of wood, after all. ;^)


> Anything in wood needing to be much more accurate will be different by
> morning anyway.

There are two separate things being measured here. One is tool setup,
the other is the tolerance to which we're working. Tool setup needs to
be more accurate. A hand plane whose blade protrudes an extra 7.8 thousandths
of an inch will probably just dig itself into the board. A hand plane whose
blade is 7.8 thousandths above the sole won't cut. Now yes, hand planes
can and are adjusted without the use of accurate tools, but that doesn't
mean one that tight tolerances aren't necessary.

Even though the wood I'm planing may contract or expand by 0.010" the
next morning, by setting my smoothing blade to take a shaving that is only
0.002" thick, I get a real nice surface. Twice as thick (only 0.002"
more), and the surface isn't as nice. 


> Everyone goes to align the TS blade to their miter slot to .00x but
> but do they do it when its running and hot (guaranteed it will be 
> different...

How different? By 0.0001"? Twice that? It won't be 0.002" different.
In another thread, Ed Bennett reported tests that showed differences
in quality of cut when alignment got more than 0.005" out. That's a 
reasonable tolerance to obtain with the right equipment, and hot or
cold running will vary much less than that.

After quality of cut issues, there are then woodworking joint tolerances.
Many woodworking glues don't fill gaps with strength, so getting tight
fitting joints is essential for strength, even if the pieces later want
to move.


So, I believe many of us aren't working to unnecessarily tight tolerances
either in machine setup or actual woodworking. But, I suspect we take
advantage of the fact that today we've got relatively affordable very
accurate measuring tools like dial calipers and dial indicators and that
we reach for them too often rather than using some of the techinques that
have been developed over the years to obtain extreme accuracy without
them.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From ibsi@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:47:54 EST 1997
Article: 183986 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:32:31 GMT
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU> writes: > 
> 
> Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo
> Oil??? by bob6666@worldnet.att.net 
> > John Levin wrote:
> > > 
> > > In article <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com>,
> mikehide@mindspring.com says...
> > 
> > > 
> > > > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> > > >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
> > > >[another wood ] of politicians .
> > > 
> > > Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from
> squeaking.
> > 
> > Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).
> 
>     C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight answer!
> 
>     Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for fine wood finishing.  It
> is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal process,
> in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .
> 
> ==========================
> Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu
> 
> Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
> the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


Can't believe the level of misinformation in the above responses (although 
the person that suggested it's used in health spas is closer than he may
realize).  Hippo oil (--from Hippolyta, queen of the Amazons in Greek 
mythology) was used by the Greeks for bathing (you know, rub it on and 
scrape it off). A carpenter noticed that it left a nice finish on the 
wooden benches used by the bathers (also, unfortunately, on the bathers)
and the rest is history. 

Mike


From tobias@scripps.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:55 EST 1997
Article: 183987 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peter Tobias <tobias@scripps.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:42:59 -0800
Organization: The Scripps Research Institute
Lines: 8
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> 
> Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
> collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
> has good suction and runs quietly.

I have the JET DC650. Quiet and keeps up with my planer. I can't compare 
with the others, never having used them. The JET has metal fan blades but 
I suppose they are not completely indestructible.


From wallygo@oeonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:56 EST 1997
Article: 183988 of rec.woodworking
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From: wallygo@oeonline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ultimate irony. Was (Re: Some disturbing news
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:42:35 GMT
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On 13 Feb 1997 16:16:44 GMT, polytrap@aol.com (Polytrap) wrote:

>Sigh.............. I just read thirty posts on this lame newsgroup, none
>of which had anything to do with woodworking. 

And your post, of course, was all about woodworking?


From twitty.davis@paonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:47:57 EST 1997
Article: 183989 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.sgi.com!news-out.microserve.net!news-in.microserve.net!news.paonline.com!usenet
From: "T. Davis" <twitty.davis@paonline.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:51:27 GMT
Organization: Pennsylvania Online [Usenet News Server for Hire]
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <01bc19e6$34276220$675a45c6@mick-davis>
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> > Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc,
dust
> > collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit
that
> > has good suction and runs quietly.


The April 97 (already!) issue of Wood has a review of dust collecters.

T Davis


From larso006@acpub.duke.edu Sat Feb 15 11:47:58 EST 1997
Article: 183990 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!usenet
From: Erick Larson <larso006@acpub.duke.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 14:54:10 -0500
Organization: Duke University, Durham, NC, USA
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <33037162.7F4D@acpub.duke.edu>
References: <19970213071400.CAA07494@ladder01.news.aol.com> <8D1F214.0233012863.uuout@corpsoft.com> <3303656B.23B7@sadust.hill.com>
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Termite wrote:
> 
> LEE WARD wrote:
> >
> > Get a HANDSAW and learn howto use it instead,Or just buy the best
> SNIP
> 
> HEY ASSHOLE get lost !!!!

Not to defend the execution of the "get a handsaw" statement but the
sentiment should not be lost. As a former newbie, I remember how
tempting it was to overbuy. There is a lot to be said for starting with
basics and learning to do them well then expanding if need demands it. A
good contractor-grade saw, used well will be a better buy than a cabinet
saw which is misunderstood and/or under-utilized. If one outgrows that
saw then move up. Buying at the top of the chain before knowing the need
is not going to be sound practice at any time, in any line of work.

-- 

Erick

  ------------------------------------------------------------
 | Erick W. Larson II         Voice : (919) 493-1657          |
 | 2106 Ward St.               email: larso006@acpub.duke.edu |
 | Durham, NC 27707-1445              larson@interpath.com    |
  ------------------------------------------------------------



From bmack@direct.ca Sat Feb 15 11:47:59 EST 1997
Article: 183991 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.60.229.3!newsfeed.direct.ca!usenet
From: bmack@direct.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer: Hitachi, Makita or ?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:49:12 GMT
Organization: Canada Internet Direct, Inc.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <33036617.38684958@news.direct.ca>
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Personally I got the Ryobi 12" and LOVE it! It suits MY cabinet making
and furniture making needs and only cost me $400.00. The reversable
and easily adjusted blades are a godsend too.
Bryce
On 4 Feb 1997 00:30:10 GMT, RJHY13A@prodigy.com (Simon Thomas) wrote:

>I'm about to buy my first planer, the above two brands have been well 
>reviewed but is the Hitachi worth the extra $300?  
>
>Use will be for furniture projects rather than not major dimensioning, 
>but quality and longevity are my priorities for any tools.
>
>Newsgroup archives say favourable things about the Hitachi but not much 
>about the Makita, which was not tested in the latest AW survey, 
>discontinued?
>
>Has anyone used both and formed an opinion.
>
>Or is it better to just forget these portables and go for a floor model, 
>a local supplier has a Delta 13" for just under $1000 (excluding stand 
>and extension tables).
>
>All help appreciated
>
>Simon 
>
>simon.thomas@mail.mei.com
>
>
>



From bmack@direct.ca Sat Feb 15 11:48:00 EST 1997
Article: 183992 of rec.woodworking
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From: bmack@direct.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router for router table use
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:49:11 GMT
Organization: Canada Internet Direct, Inc.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <33036533.38456958@news.direct.ca>
References: <5d5kcs$nbp@cronkite.cisco.com>
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On Mon, 03 Feb 97 21:11:59 GMT, echi@cisco.com (P. Eric Chi) wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I'm looking for a router for putting in the router table. I noticed that
>William Alden has a very good price on Freud FT2000E for $159 after $30 rebate 
>from Freud. Is this Freud model good for  table use? How is it compare to 
>other routers, like Hitachi M12V, ...?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Eric.

Eric:

Icouldn't do without my Dewalt 3hp v/s I think it a DW625, use it in
my router table, get the adjustment knob fron Dewalt (Ialso got the
fence for handheld stuff
Bryce


From bmack@direct.ca Sat Feb 15 11:48:02 EST 1997
Article: 183993 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!usenet
From: bmack@direct.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Books
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:49:13 GMT
Organization: Canada Internet Direct, Inc.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <33036708.38926138@news.direct.ca>
References: <5d6ahf$2hi@nntpb.cb.lucent.com>
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I am currently recieving BOTH the Rodale & Time/Life series and find
them invaluable. Supplimented with a good finishing, cabinetmaking and
shoptips book your ready for bear.
Bryce

On 4 Feb 1997 03:30:55 GMT, dvogel@mthost1.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R.
Vogel) wrote:

>Anyone have an opinion on the usefulness of the Time Life
>Art of Woodworking series for a relatively new woodworker?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dennis Vogel



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:03 EST 1997
Article: 183994 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oak for table legs
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:05:49 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 20
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In article <32fe22cc.45823048@news.ridgecrest.ca.us>, adkinsm@ridgecrest.ca.us says...
>
>ggkinzer@aol.com wrote:
>
>My supplier says oak in thick sections is difficult to find and is
>unsafe due some wierd thing going on in the wood where you can get
>some soft parts.
>
>
>Michael

Huh???  I'd say it's time to find a new supplier.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From **douten**@ibm.net Sat Feb 15 11:48:04 EST 1997
Article: 183995 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <*douten*@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:52:08 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <01bc19e7$46915280$938748a6@internet.usinet.douten>
References: <3301D45D.5ED7@nortel.ca> <3301F6FE.6AB8@webspan.net>
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I first remember Robertson screws from their widespread use in recreational
vehicles here in the USA.  From the practical standpoint they are easier to
drive than a Phillips screw but from the aesthetic standpoint they a
Phillips.  I believe that is why the Torx screw is being used more--looks
better than the Roberston and drives better than the Phillips.
                                                              Dave
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove asterisks from address**
(message edited)
shafner@webspan.net wrote in article <3301F6FE.6AB8@webspan.net>...
 
> In the early 1900s (prehaps around WWI or a little later) both the
> square head and the phillips head screws and drivers were developed.
> Through some shenanagins, the philips design was adopted  as the
> preferable fastener here in America (was it government specs or some big
> catalog company like Sears that was responsible?) even though it is by
> far an inferior design (for all of you who do not think so, you cannot
> get nearly as much torque or fingertip control with a philips
> screwdriver -- and even pitifully less with a flat edge design -- as you
> can with the square tip).
> 
 


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:48:05 EST 1997
Article: 183996 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to un-bow a board
Message-ID: <haubert.82.00196475@mbi.org>
Date: 3 Feb 97 10:31:19 GMT
References: <32E660EC.2D57@hpuerca.atl.hp.com> <5c6vvm$jvu$1@nic.win.hookup.net> <32e781a5.5590596@news.concentric.net> <haubert.78.00405DB6@mbi.org> <32e8dfaa.3832556@news.concentric.net>
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In article <32e8dfaa.3832556@news.concentric.net> anon@anon.anon (Auctor Ignotus) writes:
>From: anon@anon.anon (Auctor Ignotus)
>Subject: Re: How to un-bow a board
>Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 16:52:09 GMT

>On Thu, 23 Jan 1997 14:18:48 UNDEFINED, haubert@mbi.org wrote:

>(snip)
>>
>>>BTW, I can understand how a jointer can remove a WARP or a CUP, but
>>>just how is it supposed to remove a BOW???
>>
>>I'm not sure you know what a jointer is.   It will remove a cup, bow or twist. 
>> The term WARP is ambiguous.
>>


>With all due respect, sir, you are incorrect.  Warp, Cup, Bow, and
>Twist are all technical terms with distinct definitions (I spent many
>years in the lumber business).

>A Warped board will lay flat on it's faces, but the longitudinal edges
>will not be straight.  The board takes on a "C" shape.  A Warped board
>is "straightened" by ripping or jointing the curved edges thereby
>"straightening" them and also reducing the WIDTH of the board.


Technically, you are correct.  However, the great majority of people use the 
term 'warp' to indicate any tight of crookedness - thus,  my assumption was 
logical, albeit a bit premature, and I apologize for that.


>A Bowed board will not lay flat on it's faces, but the edges will be
>straight.  The board takes on a "U" shape.  A Bowed board will have
>one longitudinally concave face and one longitudinally convex face,
>much like an archery BOW (hence the name).  A Bowed board cannot be
>"straightened" by cutting as can boards posessed of the previously
>mentioned deformities.


Well, of course it can - with a tool called a jointer.  I really can't believe 
someone with 'many years in the lumber business' has never removed bow with a 
jointer.  It's true that the amount of bow may require much material removal, 
but in these instances you either use the wood for a project where being bowed 
is acceptable, or you cut it for smaller pieces, and then joint the bow out of 
it.   

  The only "surgical" solution to a Bow is to
>either cut latitudinal relief cuts in the concave face (ugly) or to
>resaw the board into thin plies and then laminate them back together
>in a flat plane (very labor intensive and only slightly less ugly).

Both of those solutions would be a silly waste of time, IMO.


>If you attempt to thickness plane a Bowed board you will only end up
>with a THINNER Bowed board.


Well, of course - that's why jointers and planes are still made today.


>  Your proposed solution to the problem is therefore errant.

My only solution was to use a jointer, which is certainly not errant.


>As to your allegation that I do not know what a jointer is, you speak
>from a position of ignorance.


That is true, but by stating that a jointer could not remove bow, you proved 
your ignorance yourself.


>As to your belief that the "flamer" was just trying to be funny, I
>maintain that his post was merely "snotty".


Now you are either mixed up, or being inappropriate.  At first you complained 
to me via email, and I replied by email.  Now you are complaining publicly 
while referring to my email.   


>A famous man once quipped that "It is better to remain silent and be
>thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt."


And since you decided to turn a private discussion into a public one, you 
certainly ought to know.  My doubts about you have certainly been removed.

Rich


From **douten**@ibm.net Sat Feb 15 11:48:06 EST 1997
Article: 183997 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <*douten*@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: 13 Feb 1997 20:01:30 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <01bc19e8$95b4ea60$938748a6@internet.usinet.douten>
References: <19970212194700.OAA04478@ladder01.news.aol.com> <5du4ja$2cq@camel5.mindspring.com>
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When you are ordering and having it shipped via UPS be sure to tell the
company to make it signature required but keep in mind there is an
additional charge for this.
                                                 Dave 
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove asterisks from address**



From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:07 EST 1997
Article: 183998 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ultimate irony. Was (Re: Some disturbing news
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:54:44 GMT
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In article <19970213161601.LAA22268@ladder01.news.aol.com>, polytrap@aol.com 
says...
>
>Sigh.............. I just read thirty posts on this lame newsgroup, none
>of which had anything to do with woodworking. Why don't you rename this
>one "Shitheads flaming each other"? None of this useless bickering
>pertains to making sawdust. Does anyone say anything about woodworking
>here? I, for one, am disappointed that every newsgroup I have subscribed
>to invariably sinks to petty pot shots having nothing to do with the
>supposed subject matter. If bullshit were money, newsgroups would be the
>killer app of the internet.

This group is not anywhere near as bad as a lot of others on the net.
Hang out and follow awhile. Youll start seeing the same people. And
just like any group of the same folks, they argue about things.
And, given a sense of humor, and that you recognize some of the names
involved, it gets kinda amusing at times. I have learned a lot from
folks on this group, and have been disgusted a few times, but it
doesnt bother me anymore, for the reasons I give above. This group
is just a bunch of people from all different walks, all with woodworking
in common, throwing around various discussions. Not all of which end
up being about woodworking. Some people share jokes, we argue about
various stores and prices and service. There is one particular guy
who loves to really get things stirred up. I have even grown to
find him funny and would probably miss him if he dissappeared. So
hang out awhile and give the group a chance. There is definately a 
wealth of WW knowledge to be had here. 


stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:08 EST 1997
Article: 183999 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: staining oak endgrain
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:14:15 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 19
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In article <Pine.A32.3.95.970212180246.54232A-100000@unix1.cc.ysu.edu>, lawhitne@cc.ysu.edu says...
>
>I've turned several ball top finials for railing posts.  Now I want to
>stain them.  How can I prevent the end grain from turning almost black?
>Will staining over shellac do the job? TIA Tony.
>

First, the end grain needs to be sanded extremely smooth.  A sanding
sealer would be a good move to insure the most even stain job... and
you'll want to sand to at least 400 grit.  An oil stain will likely give better
results than a water based stain.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:08 EST 1997
Article: 184000 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:00:36 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 56
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In article <19970213071400.CAA07494@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
paulinmo@aol.com says...
>
>        Now, reading some posts here, one would get the impression that
>anything less than a $2000 saw won't really be satisfactory in the long
>run for the serious hobbyist, who wants to make nice cabinetry, etc. Do
>you agree? Why?

You can certainly do good work with a less expensive saw.  I guess the
best analogy is that a $500-$600 saw would be a Chevy Cavalier, while
a $2000 saw would be a Cadillac El Dorado.  Both will probably get you almost
anywhere you want to go, but the $2000 saw will get you there in style as
well as more safely.

The biggest difference at the user end is that more expensive saws like
Delta's Unisaw run extremely smoothly.  There's almost no vibration, and
the thing will be really stable and sturdy.  Inside, the castings and
parts are bigger, heavier, and assembled with more focus on precision.
A 3HP Unisaw will likely saw anything you can manage to throw at it, while
a smaller saw may whine pretty seriously with thicker hardwoods.  If you
can find a dealer who will let you try out two saws of these price ranges,
by all means do it.  The differences are striking, but only you know if they're
worth the price to you.  I can tell you that you will not outgrow a Unisaw, but
you might outgrow a contractor's type saw.  It's my opinion that a bigger saw
is a safer saw.  All too often, accidents happen when we're pushing ourselves
or our equipment a little harder than we should.

>I can also get it with the 50 inch extension for $720 (at
>Lowe's). How useful do you find the extended fence, or do you consider it
>a nice but not necessary luxury?

IMO, extended fence/table combinations are definitely worth the expense,
provided you have that much space to devote to the saw.  With a 50"
table, you can cut 4 x 8 sheet goods to any size you like.  Whether that's
something that's important to you is the salient question.  In any case,
all saws can be fitted with high-quality aftermarket fences to increase
their precision and capacity, so this isn't a decision that can't be reversed
later.

>        I am trying to sink enough money in this saw so that I won't
>regret my purchase in future years, but at the same time not go overboard
>$$$$!. Thanks for any advice.

Just keep in mind that whichever saw you decide upon, you'll probably be
sinking some cash into accessories and tooling as well.  Good carbide
blades will likely cost at least $40 each, and you'll probably want a dado set,
maybe a tenoning jig, etc.  It's pretty easy to fork over another $400-$500
just getting set up.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From stevek@aracnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:09 EST 1997
Article: 184001 of rec.woodworking
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From: stevek@aracnet.com (Steve Knight)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:26:16 GMT
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Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com> wrote:

 (who are serious hobyists) here have every single one of 
>them.  *I* don't, but I bet there are at least three well know names here 
>that have all of these tools.  (and there's at least one of us who thinks
>that the only tools that should be plugged into the wall are a bandsaw and 
>a Skill 77 circular saw... ;^> )
>
There is the resaw bandsaw the 5 or so biscuit jointers 40.00 glue
applicator. 450.00 edge banding tool. Several planers. statinary
Buiscut jointer and I am sure there are a few other things I am
missing. Metal detector lots of old pine.

Doggie~ on Irc



From lharts@unm.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:10 EST 1997
Article: 184002 of rec.woodworking
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From: lharts@unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 08:06:36 -0700
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
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>> Ok, so I'm a newbie (as you may have seen from other posts...)  Should I
>> get the ShopNotes backissues for $80?
>It depends on what you want to do.  I dropped my ShopNotes subscription
>after the first year because the stuff they built bordered on the
>ridiculous.  They seemed to go to extraordinary effort to come up with
>unnecessary jigs and fixtures.  I like to build furniture - not jigs.

   Couldn't have said it better myself
the bit on what you like to do.
 I enjoy more the building of jigs and
fixtures rather than furniture so I 
think Shop Notes is great. Have subscribed
since Vol 1  No. 1
  Never built any of the projects exactly
as shown but have found a lot of ideas
that have been usefull.
  SO it all depends, (no one else can blow your nose for you.)
    ...lew...



From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Feb 15 11:48:11 EST 1997
Article: 184003 of rec.woodworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:55:57 GMT
Organization: bnr
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In article <19970212194700.OAA04478@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) wrote:
snip
> curtains). He asks me to sign. I sign. Now, UPS will no longer drop
> packages at my door unless I sign for it which is a major drag. We've

snip

I could even deal with that if they had an after hours pick-up spot

Not a UPS fan
Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ł...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste˛
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:12 EST 1997
Article: 184004 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:38:16 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <33031160.48A3@inlink.com>, watts@inlink.com says...
>
>My question is, I heard they use to soke them in creosote.
>I've also heard you can't get it anymore because of health or
>enviromental reasons.  What can I use to maintain these things?
>The creosote made them look black tar like, which I would like
>to maintain if possible.
>
>Can anyone help???
>
>Marshall
>watts@inlink.com

Older railroad ties were indeed soaked in mixtures of creosote and Penta
(pentachlorophenol, as I recall), which turned out to be a pretty serious
cancer risk.  If the ties have lightened considerably, meaning that the outer
surface of the ties has become porous, you can almost surely use a dark
oil-based exterior stain to restore their color.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:13 EST 1997
Article: 184005 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing Question
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:52:05 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5dv8is$er3@junkie.gnofn.org>, acd02@gnofn.org says...
>
>Repairing and refinishing some furniture for my neighbor.  Three tables
>that his father made.  He gave them to me last night and I started to take
>one apart.  All of the glue joints have failed, legs wobbly, joint in
>table top seperated.  These table were made around 1948 out of mahogany.
>The legs are mortised and tenoned to the stiles but wood screws were also
>used to fasten them (his father was an engineer so major overkill).  Well,
>I got a few of the screws out after straining myself and was wondering if
>there was an easier way to get them out.  They're regular head screws so
>I'm a little worried about stripping the heads.  Is there andy way I could
>treat them, with an oil or something.  Not sure if they were glued too,
>but if so, it's probably failed too.  Just think the wood has well dried.
>Thought about using an easy out type device.  Well, thanks for any info as
>these pieces have lots of sentimental value to my neighbor and I'd hate to
>mess them up.
>
>Aaron Davis
>

My little trick for removing old, gummed-up, stubborn screws:

Apply a hot soldering iron to the head of the screw.  You don't want to heat it
to the point of scorching the wood -- just enough to get it hot, make it
expand, and break down any glue or finish that might be gumming up the
threads.  If they're long screws, you have to do this in small increments to get
the entire screw length heated up slowly.

When it's cooled to the point where it's not uncomfortable to touch, I take
some electronic spray cleaner and spray the screw for a few seconds.  This
chills the screw and causes it to contract, and also stiffens up any of the
remaining gunk on the threads.  Nine times out of ten, the screw rolls right out.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:13 EST 1997
Article: 184006 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:01:02 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Bill Ferris wrote:
> 
> Jeff Gorman wrote:
> >
> > Joe Watkins wrote:
> >
> > ~  I am just curious... when I submit a request for info etc. Do you
> > ~  expect or require or appreciate a reply to your offered advice/help?
> > ~
> > ~  I have asked a few newbie questions and I have gotten some good info
> > ~  in return.  I am not sure wether or not to reply with thanks or send
> > ~  an email to the person or persons that have generously offered their
> > ~  two cents.  How do you all feel?
> >
> > I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
> > take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
> > and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
> > reply.
> >
> > Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
> > by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.
> >
> I agree!! If all the replies were e-mailed, how am I gonna learn
> anything!!

I'd like to add my $0.02 if I might.  There used to be an unwritten
policy here that off-topic posts were required to have an "ob.ww"
addendum.  "ob.ww" stands for "obligatory woodworking" and means
that you MUST put something related to woodworking in your message.
That way, people who read the list for its woodworking content can
get something from every message.  I'll try to return to that policy.
Anybody else with me?

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu

ob.ww:  I'm using Formby's "Tung Oil Finish" on a cherry night
stand I just finished.  It's very thin and easy to apply, yet
builds up to a nice sheen remarkably fast.  It's also nice to
use something that recommends the palm of your hand as an applicator.


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:14 EST 1997
Article: 184007 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:22:24 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:
> 
> snip...notes about the lack of plans online...

> I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
> use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
> I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
> and  gals think it would be a contribution.
> 
I don't know if he would be interested in hosting a library for all
our plans but Gary at http://www.theoak.com/gary has links to plans
all over the net.  If you haven't visited his site, check it now.
Anybody else willing to volunteer?

I suppose it would be easiest if we could put some guidelines on
file types, filenames, and archive formats.  I don't know how 
much disk space I could get, but if Gary isn't willing to do it,
I'd be willing to host the library as long as I have space and
time to handle it.

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:16 EST 1997
Article: 184008 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handyclub of America
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:25:23 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <33022732.5E5A@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
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wtrider@earthlink.net wrote:
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Handyman Club of America and what type of
> organization is behind it?

I was a "Charter Member".  I think everyone who joins is given that
honor.  Anyway, they advertised that you would get a chance to 
review (and keep) products as well as getting a good how-to 
magazine.  During my one-year "membership", I received several
issues of a lousy, self-serving, advertiser-serving magazine and
a little plastic gadget to help trim windows (value: < $2).

In my opinion, you'd be better off subscribing to American
Woodworker, Popular Mechanics, or even (gasp) WOOD
instead of "joining" this "club".  It depends on what
you're looking for as to which one of the above would
be appropriate, but they're all better than the Handyman
magazine.  I wouldn't say Handyman is a ripoff, but certainly
not a good value.

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:16 EST 1997
Article: 184009 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!ames!purdue!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!news
From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood by mail
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:39:30 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <5dvn52$e0f@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>
References: <grfx-1302970659550001@ts01-ppp00.ktb.net>
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In article <grfx-1302970659550001@ts01-ppp00.ktb.net>, grfx@epgd.com says...
>
>The mail order mills sometimes have some pretty great deals on hardwoods.
>Anybody have much experience with mail order wood. Good luck, bad luck?
>Thanks

I've had good luck with mail-order mills, but the UPS shipping cost usually
makes up for any great bargain in the price of the lumber...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:17 EST 1997
Article: 184010 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!worldnet.att.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!mindspring!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!catfish2.valdosta.peachnet.edu!usenet
From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bit height problem with FT2000 table mount
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 14:20:22 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 24
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John N Scheffel wrote:
> 
> Alan wrote:
> >
> > Second... ANY (as far as I know) router once mounted on ANY surface
> > will lose the depth used by the surface.  I don't know of a router
> > who's chuck will stick out farther than its base.  (It's hard to be
> > sure I know so little)
> >
> 
> I don't know of any plunge routers which can extend the collet
> below the standard base plate, but some of the Porter Cable
> "non-plunge" models will extend the bottom of the chuck about
> 1/4 inch below the base.  Two that I have checked for myself
> are the 690 (1.5 HP) and 7518 (3.5 HP 5 speed).  This makes
> them good choices for router table mounting.  There may be
> other non-plunge routers that can do this as well.
> 
My Ryobi RE600 will extend the bottom of the chuck ever so
slightly below the base plate.  Just enough to burn the wood
but not enough to affect the motion of the router.

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:18 EST 1997
Article: 184011 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:27:49 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3301EF85.5AEF@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
References: <5ciu5g$dr1@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> <01bc1210$d6506160$a0eb2399@default> <32fd55d1.4674796@news1.mnsinc.com> <5dkfbm$oc8@was.hooked.net> <32fe4e26.26048129@news1.mnsinc.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184011

RickM@mnsinc.com wrote:
> 
snip...discussion of cherry not darkening because of lack of sunlight.

> This makes sense, and it is in such a location.  Since it will always
> be in such a location, then I will apparently have to do something to
> darken in artificially, such as using stain, which I know is a hanging
> offense if some recent posters were jury members...
> 
We wouldn't hang you as long as you're actually doing woodworking and
posting about it.  Heck, that's why we're here.

Having said that, let me say that I would exaust all other options
before artificially darkening cherry.  You didn't say what the item
was like so I gotta ask...

Is it reasonable to assume that you could move the item to an area
that gets lots of sun for a few weeks?  If not, could you "move
the sun to the item" with some grow lights/tanning lamps?  Cherry
will darken considerably with two weeks of direct sunlight.  Did
you accidentally use a finish with UVI (ultra-violet inhibitors)?
If so, it may never darken appreciably indoors.

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu

Put them ropes away, boys...


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:19 EST 1997
Article: 184012 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use sawdust.
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:52:40 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3301F558.6663@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
References: <9702050717.AA16999@rsmail.novitech.sk> <32fe12ce.89890192@news.compumedia.com> <5doq65$66p@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
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To: Edward O'Grady <wallyo@ix.netcom.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184012

Edward O'Grady wrote:

>     How can I fill a small seam or hole on a wooden box using sawdust?
> Do I use Polyurethane and then sand it?  I'm having a bad time with one
> customer who is patiently waiting for a box.  Can anybody post an idea
> or E-mail me.  Thanks very much.
>                         Ed/WallyO

I've had good luck with a sawdust/glue mixture.  Fill the hole plus a
little extra.  When it's dry, sand flush.  If the project is already
stained, you can add a drop or two of stain to the mixture.  Works
for me!

--Paul Worth--
pworth@valdosta.edu

P.S.  Don't use dust from your belt sander.  It has too much "grit".


From james.w.baker@lmco.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:20 EST 1997
Article: 184013 of rec.woodworking
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From: "James W. Baker" <james.w.baker@lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shaker Plans
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 15:36:23 -0500
Organization: General Dynamics Defense Systems
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <33037B47.771B@lmco.com>
References: <19970210220700.RAA19938@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19970211202400.PAA10430@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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dodsonjohn@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <19970210220700.RAA19938@ladder01.news.aol.com>, xqqme3@aol.com
> (Xqqme3) writes:
> 
> >Looking for plans for buildinf church/pulpit furniture in the Shaker
> >style.  Can anyone give me an idea where to look?  Thanks
> >
> >
> 
> The Time Life book on Shaker furniture has a bench plan.  You might also
> look in Thos. Moser's 'Building Shaker Furniture" book.  The book by Jim
> Shea is also good.

Also check out the Shaker measured shop drawings books (at least 4
volumes) by Enjer Handberg.  The books have B&W sketches and major
dimensions with detailed inset sketches.  These are supposed to be taken
directly from Shaker furniture from various museums and private
collections.  I purchase them at the Hancock Shaker Village gift shop in
Hancock, Mass., 413-443-0188.

Jim Baker


From doryjoe@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:21 EST 1997
Article: 184014 of rec.woodworking
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From: doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Which D Handle Router
Date: 13 Feb 1997 20:59:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I am going to buy either the Porter Cable or Bosch D handle 1 1/2 HP
router.  I already have a routher that stays in router table, so the D
Handle will stay put together for hand use.  Any suggestions as to which
is the best, most comfortable, etc. to use.  Thanks


From catjam@mail.neosoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:22 EST 1997
Article: 184015 of rec.woodworking
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From: catjam <catjam@mail.neosoft.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tung Oil Source
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 15:07:57 -0600
Organization: NeoSoft, Inc.  
Lines: 8
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I'm asking help from this group.  We're building a home and want to
use a natural tung oil finish on our oak floors.  Have you had any
experience with this finish?  Who makes the best?  Is it better to
have 100% tung oil, or is tung plus a solvent okay?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Jean


From manhart@bio.tamu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:23 EST 1997
Article: 184016 of rec.woodworking
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From: manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood by mail
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 15:06:47 -0600
Organization: Dept. Biology, Texas A&M University
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In article <5dvn52$e0f@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>, jep@physics.purdue.edu (John
Paquay) wrote:

> In article <grfx-1302970659550001@ts01-ppp00.ktb.net>, grfx@epgd.com says...
> >
> >The mail order mills sometimes have some pretty great deals on hardwoods.
> >Anybody have much experience with mail order wood. Good luck, bad luck?
> >Thanks
> 
> I've had good luck with mail-order mills, but the UPS shipping cost usually
> makes up for any great bargain in the price of the lumber...
> 

I have had good luck too.  I had some 16/4 rough sawn butternet shipped to
Texas from Haus of Hardwoods in Washington and it ended up being less than
$4.00/bd-ft. with shipping.  This is a good price considering that I could
not find much butternut locally and quantities of 16/4 would be out of the
question.   However, it has to be a really good sale price or something
that you can't get locally to make it worthwhile.  The other advantage is
that it gives the UPS guy a good workout.


From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:24 EST 1997
Article: 184017 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardware
Date: 13 Feb 1997 21:22:41 GMT
Organization: Retired
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Take a look at the links at http://www.woodworking.com/

Woodworker's Store	1-800-279-4441
Woodworker's Supply	1-800-645-9292
Woodworker's Hardware	1-800-383-0130
-- 
Best -- Frank

James Daines <jbd@trans1.com> wrote in article
<330375A7.5D1B@trans1.com>...
> Can anyone recommend a good source for cabinet hardware?  Also I am
> looking for a good source for exotic and european hardwoods. Small
> quantities from some kind of mail order service.
> 


From marky@up.net Sat Feb 15 11:48:25 EST 1997
Article: 184018 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Best way to filter dusty shop air?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 14:50:43 -0600
Organization: Folksingers United/Siblinghood of Humanity
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I have basement workshop that gets super dusty; hope to some year have
dust collectors on all tools, but till then, ... and even so, what
shoulld I use to keep my air healthy/clean?


ANy suggestions as to brands/products, etc?  Thanks!
 

Mark Young				(newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
acoustic@up.net
http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972


From aht@mail.bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:48:26 EST 1997
Article: 184019 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Sander?  WAS: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander???
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 23:45:11 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:29:32 -0600, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
wrote:

>I posted an article about what people thought about the Delta benchtop
>sander and the feedback I got was that it's easier to stall making it
>not real good for large scale use.  One suggestion for saving $$ on a
>larger one was to look at Grizzly.  Grizzly still has a presidents
>special on their 6x48/9" disc sander.  It is on a stand and has 3/4 Hp. 
>PRice is $169 and for me $50 shipping.  
>
>Anyone have experience with this sander??
>Thanks
>DAmian


Damian,

I have the Grizzly 6x48/9". It's great, in fact I use it all the time
for any number of things. It's made very well, I like the quick
release for belt changes, It tracks well, even though I don't think
their tracking adjustment actually works. The  miter platform is a
nice and heavy cast iron one and can be used on either the belt ( when
the belt is lifted up in the vertical position ) or the disc. Their
little miter gauge is better left in the box, I use a tablesaw miter
gauge to sand perfect 45° trim pieces. The supplementary fence for the
belt is not very useful. ( getting it parallel to the belt is a pain )
When using the miter platform on the belt, ( when the belt is lifted
up in the vertical position ) the disc part of the machine gets in the
way of wide or long pieces, ( a design flaw of most belt sanders
unfortunately ) however it's still very useful.

After looking at the other belt sanders out there its a good value,
and with the sale price, even better.



From Chuck@nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:27 EST 1997
Article: 184020 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck@nospam.com (Chuck Rice)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How Flat should my Delta 34-444 table be?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 13:28:29 -0800
Organization: WildRice Communications
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Message-ID: <Chuck-1302971328290001@kaynine.wildrice.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184020


I just purchased a Delta Contractor Saw and when I went to adjust 
the insert height, my straight edge kept rocking no matter how I 
adjusted the insert. I removed the insert and tried once more 
and it still rocked. 

I got out my feeler gauges and it appears that if I hold the edge 
flat on the right side of the insert hole, I can slip a .015 feeler
in easly and .020 fits roughly. This is using a 12 inch edge from
my combination square.

If I move the straight edge in front of the insert hole and measure 
again, the table is so flat I cannot measure any deviation. Should 
I return the saw or is the a normal result of having an insert hole 
cut into the table? -Chuck- 

P.S. If you prefer, you can email me at wildrice.com. My email 
id is "Chuck", but I try not to include it to prevent spam.


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:48:28 EST 1997
Article: 184021 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 16:27:35 UNDEFINED
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In article <3302055E.1111@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> writes:
>From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
>Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
>Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:01:02 -0500


> > I feel that the people who say "Thanks in anticipation" or suchlike,
>> > take too much for granted, are unlikely to be bothered to acknowledge,
>> > and probably fail to appreciate the effort that can be put into a
>> > reply.

I think they're just trying to be polite.

> >
>> > Even more reprehensible, in my view, are the people who ask for reply
>> > by email since they do not usually read the newsgroup.


Yes, definitely.  It defeats the purpose, as well.


>I'd like to add my $0.02 if I might.  There used to be an unwritten
>policy here that off-topic posts were required to have an "ob.ww"
>addendum.  "ob.ww" stands for "obligatory woodworking" and means
>that you MUST put something related to woodworking in your message.
>That way, people who read the list for its woodworking content can
>get something from every message.  I'll try to return to that policy.
>Anybody else with me?


This is an interesting idea, whether it was yours or not.  But, I doubt it'll 
work - too many new people all the time - the same type who want us to email 
their responses to them.


>ob.ww:  I'm using Formby's "Tung Oil Finish" on a cherry night
>stand I just finished.  It's very thin and easy to apply, yet
>builds up to a nice sheen remarkably fast.  It's also nice to
>use something that recommends the palm of your hand as an applicator.

Thanks for the tip, Paul!  I have a bottle of that stuff sitting on the shelf 
that I bought real cheap.  Haven't used it yet, but I'll have to try it.  I'm 
wondering how water resistant the results will be.

Rich



From Mitch_Favreau@tikal.biosci.arizona.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:29 EST 1997
Article: 184022 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mitch Favreau <Mitch_Favreau@tikal.biosci.arizona.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Lathe
Date: 13 Feb 1997 21:40:04 GMT
Organization: Biochemistry, University of Arizona
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In article <330349DB.623B@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu> Ron Williams,
williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu writes:
>I also bought an old Atlas lathe and was told to contact Clausing.  They 
>still had support for their metal lathes, but I was told they no longer 
>supported their wood lathes.  That was last summer, and I never got past 
>the secretary, so I may be wrong.
>

You are not wrong.  Clausing supports Atlas metal lathes, but does not
support any Atlas woodworking equipment.

They do have most of the manuals for the woodworking equipment and will
send out photocopies, though.

Mitch


From gboggs@uswest.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:30 EST 1997
Article: 184023 of rec.woodworking
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From: gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Date: 13 Feb 1997 21:39:34 GMT
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References: <5dcf8m$j0_001@ppp230_20.cftnet.com> <5ddoeh$lqo@news2.tds.net> <haubert.108.000BB4A1@mbi.org> <3300DB70.B2D@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> <haubert.113.000A9DB6@mbi.org> <gboggs-120297150410@grunge.advtech.uswest.com> <haubert.114.000ADEF0@mbi.org>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184023

In article <haubert.114.000ADEF0@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
> In article <gboggs-120297150410@grunge.advtech.uswest.com> gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs) writes:
> >From: gboggs@uswest.com (George Boggs)
> >Subject: Re: Norm,s new shop
> >Date: 12 Feb 1997 22:09:21 GMT
> 
> 
> >> 
> >> >haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> >>  
> >> >> Are you guys kidding?  He hasn't 'moved to HGTV'.  That's just a two-bit cable
> >> >> station that's showing some old reruns - thus, he IS younger, and DOES have
> >> >> less fancy tools.
> 
> >[...]
> 
> >Two-bit cable channel? Maybe you're right. And maybe the reason they're
> >two-bit is because they aren't whining at me several times a year like some
> >Mercedes-deprived televangelist trying to pry fifty bucks out of my credit
> >card for a cheesy - sorry, I meant *fabulous* - coffee mug. And, lawdy
> >sakes, they don't send me a bunch of junk mail.
> 
> 
> You are absolutely right about public TV stations.   I once told them I would 
> send them a check every year if they would NEVER bother me again, but of 
> course they don't work that way.  

I never thought of that. Maybe I should try it. Thanks for the tip.

> 
> But I was not implying that public TV was necessarily better than HGTV.  I 
> only said HGTV was 'two-bit'.  This means they are small and 
> low-budget.  If you equate that with bad, OK, but I don't, necessarily.

Neither do I. I missed your meaning. I drive a two-bit truck by that 
definition. :)

[...]

G. Boggs             
gboggs@uswest.com       Posterity -- you will never know how much it has 
                        cost my generation to preserve your freedom.  
                        I hope you will make good use of it.
                                                     John Quincy Adams


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:31 EST 1997
Article: 184024 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:06:05 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <3303904D.100F@sadust.hill.com>
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almost a router accessories are designed to fit or are based on the PC
routers. Go with the PC you'll have a lot more options down the road.


From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:48:32 EST 1997
Article: 184025 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Philly WW'ing Stores?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 21:57:27 GMT
Organization: South Carolina SuperNet, Inc.
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 I will be in Philly later this month, any suggestions for any "downtown" 
woodworking stores open for visitors?

Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From jbg16a60@cc.utah.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:33 EST 1997
Article: 184026 of rec.woodworking
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From: jbg16a60@cc.utah.edu (James B Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accessories for Bosch 1613evs??????
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:31:19 GMT
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
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Wayne Smith (wsmith@frontiernet.net) wrote:
: Anybody know where I can get edge guides and other stuff for the Bosch
: 1613evs. I bought it at HomeDepot but they can't order
: parts..................Thanks...........Wayne
I bought an edge guide from Woodcraft.  Our Home Depot in Salt Lake does 
carry the complete set of template guides for about $25, so you might 
want to inquire again.


From eladendo Sat Feb 15 11:48:34 EST 1997
Article: 184027 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Ladendorf <eladendo>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: I Tried Frank's Jig -- It Sucks
Date: 13 Feb 1997 20:20:37 GMT
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That's right, I made Frank's jig for ripping dowels on a table saw. It 
sucked the "danger" right out of the procedure. The jig is extremely easy 
to make and use. Dowels can now be ripped on a table saw just as safely 
as ripping plywood (maybe safer). Thanks again Frank, this is one I won't 
forget.

Ed



From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:35 EST 1997
Article: 184028 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stanley #95 or Lie Nelson equivalent
Date: 13 Feb 1997 22:24:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have two Lie Neilson planes and love them both.  You wont be sorry you
bought them. Especially the #95.  To true it up and flaten onley took a
while not like the day i used up on a #3

Go for it JS


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:36 EST 1997
Article: 184029 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:19:52 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <33039388.714F@sadust.hill.com>
References: <19970213071400.CAA07494@ladder01.news.aol.com> <8D1F214.0233012863.uuout@corpsoft.com> <3303656B.23B7@sadust.hill.com> <33037162.7F4D@acpub.duke.edu>
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Erick Larson wrote:
> 
> Termite wrote:
> >
> > LEE WARD wrote:
> > >
> > > Get a HANDSAW and learn howto use it instead,Or just buy the best
> > SNIP
> >
> > HEY ASSHOLE get lost !!!!
> 
> Not to defend the execution of the "get a handsaw" statement but the
> sentiment should not be lost. As a former newbie, I remember how
> tempting it was to overbuy. There is a lot to be said for starting > with basics and learning to do them well then expanding if need > demands it. A good contractor-grade saw, used well will be a better > buy than a cabinet saw which is misunderstood and/or under-utilized. > If one outgrows that saw then move up. Buying at the top of the chain > before knowing the need is not going to be sound practice at any time, > in any line of work.
> Erick
Erick,
I agree. However with rare exception the NEWBIE will not be able to cut
square joints with hand held tools. If you can't get square joints then
anything you make doesn't come together - resulting in un-neccessary
frustration for the NEWBIE.
I'm not recommending where the NEWBIE should buy in at - to many unknown
factors to consider and I knew that many would offer their advice and
opinions for Paul to consider.
Lee's advice (or the way I read it) was rude and off the mark. It read
with a tone that that I can't stand - some smart ass that thinks he
knows more than everybody, better than those who are eager to learn and
are only looking for some assistance with a little something that might
bring some joy into their lives.

But I agree with you - Termite


From straffin@evolveinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:37 EST 1997
Article: 184030 of rec.woodworking
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From: straffin@evolveinc.com (John Straffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eucalyptus?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:28:17 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 02:10:53 +1100, r*white@enternet.com.au (Computer
Systems Manager) wrote:

>In article <32FFC1BD.5C11@global.net.au>, Jeff Edwards says...
>
>> John Straffin wrote:
>> > 
>> > Is Eucalyptus wood any good?  Didn't see it in my local "we have every
>> > wood" lumber store and there's a bunch of logs just lying around where
>> > some trees were cleared by some trian tracks.  They've been lying
>> > there for several months now, so I'd say nobody 'official' is doing
>> > anything with them and was wondering if I should try.  :)
>> > 
>> > - John C. Straffin
>> > straffin@evolveinc.com
>> 
>> Eucalyptus is genus name and covers about 2,000 individual species and
>> sub groups.  
>> Timbers range from common long grained semi-hard woods through to
>> exquisite and rare desert hardwoods that a extremely sort after for
>> musical instruments. 
>> To know if it is "Any Good", you need to know which wood you are talking
>> about and then what application you intend to use for. 
>> Try and find out what sort of Eucalypt is is, then connect to the
>> Australia Wood site at http://www.woodart.com.au/ and look in there for
>> detailed info. 
>> JEFF
>> 
>Jeff gives good advice on the eucalyptus ... if it's the right species, 
>it's like gold and makes splendid furniture.
>
>More importantly, what happened to the koalas that used to sit in the top 
>of those trees?

Don't know of any wild koala's in the San Francisco Bay area.  :)

With that bit of info out, what species is it likely to be growing in
California?


- John C. Straffin
straffin@evolveinc.com


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:38 EST 1997
Article: 184031 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best way to filter dusty shop air?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:24:22 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184031

Mark - dust collector on tools helps but it's not everything. You can
check out some of the post on Dejanews for 'Air Filtration Systems. 
Earlier this week a posted information on a JDS 350 that I just
installed in my basement shop.
Since I installed it (Tue) I've done a couple of small test to check it
out. As you know sweeping the floor creates a huge dust cloud - same or
worse than sanding!! I wrote about this in my post eariler this
week......


From who@whatnot.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:48:40 EST 1997
Article: 184032 of rec.woodworking
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From: who@whatnot.co.uk (John Luby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: scroll saw questions
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:31:58 GMT
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On 13 Feb 1997 12:26:49 -0600, mlehman@omnifest.uwm.edu (Mark W.
Lehman) wrote:

>Hi Folks, am just getting started in woodworking and have some
>questions about making the mini clock designs that are always
>found in many of the common woodworking magazines. I have made
>several of them now and enjoy making them very much. So far
>I have only given them away as gifts but was wondering if it 
>is legal or ethical to make them from someone elses design and
>sell them, maybe at craft shows? If anyone has done this I would
>be interested in how popular they are and what a fair price is.
>
>(SNIP)

I live in the UK, and Mark sounds as though he lives in the US. AFAIK
copyright law in both countries agrees that copyrighted designs,
including those published in books are for personal use only. Quantity
production for profit violates copyright and leaves you open to civil
litigation. I know of one craft business in the UK who not only
produces designs from books wholesale, but uses illustrations from the
books in their catalogue! Asking for trouble.

Once basic principles are grasped, it isn't all that difficult to
produce designs different enough to avoid copyright problems. In any
event, you'll have more success selling fresh ideas and designs.

As for pricing, that's always a killer question. Too low and you won't
make costs, too high and you won't sell. The big trick is figuring
accurately what your costs really are - don't forget power usage,
transport, wastage, paperwork, etc. etc. My own view is that if you
can't beat the competition without selling below (realistic) cost,
find another business. DON'T undercut other people on the basis that
it's just a hobby for you - they might be doing it for a livelihood.

One last point for anyone selling craftwares, especially via stalls
and shows. Whatever the general prices of your wares, always ensure
that your stock includes a few inexpensive items - many people who
won't or can't stretch to a major purchase will be glad to buy these
rather than leave empty handed, especially if they've been at your
stall more than a minute or two.

That said, scrollwork products are again becoming fashionable, and
it's a fascinating area of woodwork. Good Luck.


( jluby@globalnet.co.uk  - my address for non-spammers )


From abm@cs.cmu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:40 EST 1997
Article: 184033 of rec.woodworking
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From: abm@cs.cmu.edu (Andrew B. Mor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:33:19 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
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In article <3300D1C8.6EB2@bellsouth.net>, goldnrod@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Jerry and Lisa wrote:
> > 
> > Hey everyone..   I have a question and I hope that someone can help me out
> > here..   I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for my
> > kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me to
>
> Lisa, go to several pet stores and look at some of the ones they have to
> give you ideas on the many designs available. Also, my wife gets a

This is what I am currently in the midst of, and I would recommend it.
I spent ~$30 on particleboard and 2x4's, $6 on a couple of cutoff rolls
of carpet, and too many hours trying to piece it together, and the cats
seem to like the shape.  I finished the construction last night and am
going to staple the carpet on tonight.  I also bought some sisal rope
to make a scratching area for them.  Total cost is going to be around
$40, and it will weigh a ton, but when I move, I'll just build them a 
better one.

One caveat, at least for me.  I didn't start with a definite plan, and
some of the pieces aren't ideally shaped.  But that shouldn't hurt somebody
more creative than I.

Andy Mor

----------------------------------------------------------------
Andrew B. Mor                           abm@ri.cmu.edu
Robotics Ph.D. Student                  office: (412) 268-1416
Robotics Institute, CMU                 fax:    (412) 268-5571


From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:42 EST 1997
Article: 184034 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 12inch planer any recomendations !
Date: 13 Feb 1997 22:37:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I bought the Grizzly 12" a couple of years ago and I'm very happy with it.
Especially since I built the table to go withit found in  Fine woodworking
for the small shop. It made a great improvement on the "snipe" problem

John


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:48:43 EST 1997
Article: 184035 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Flocking - Warning
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:03:50 -0500
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I recently have had a bad experience with the DonJer Flocking
materials.  DonJer admit that they are having some problems with a new
supplier for their adhesives and sometimes the flocking won't stick to
the adhesive.  Their advice is to remove the mess with acetone and
redo.  Orginally the adhesive was very thick but the viscocity now is
very thin like water.  They say you can use oil-base coloured enamel
instead of the adhesive if you can't wait until they get the problem
corrected.

Since this group has been very helpful in the past, I was wondering if
anyone in the group knows of another company (not supplier) who makes
and distributes flocking materials?  I telephoned Woodworking Supply and
Woodcraft who also sell flocking but they sell the DonJer products.

Thank you for any help you can supply.

Henry Douglas


From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:44 EST 1997
Article: 184036 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: back issues Fine Woodworking
Date: 13 Feb 1997 22:40:23 GMT
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I've got an extra set of #38-43 that I'd part with

John


From hargitai@acf2.NYU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:48:46 EST 1997
Article: 184037 of rec.woodworking
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From: hargitai@acf2.NYU.EDU (hargitai)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: antique spindle bed, smaller then twin
Date: 13 Feb 1997 16:09:00 -0500
Organization: New York University
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I got a nice maple bed frame but is smaller than the
twin mattress I ordered for it. 

In addition there is no support for the mattress. I suspect
it had springs going accross however I couldn't find any
marks on the side panels to indicate that.

I could screw in some support and use slats accross, but
wondered if anyone knew how beds like this worked, (before
I did any alterations to it)

thanks

j



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:47 EST 1997
Article: 184038 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:37:59 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Paul Worth wrote:
> 
snip
> > >
> I'd like to add my $0.02 if I might.  There used to be an unwritten
> policy here that off-topic posts were required to have an "ob.ww"
> addendum.  "ob.ww" stands for "obligatory woodworking" and means
> that you MUST put something related to woodworking in your message.
> That way, people who read the list for its woodworking content can
> get something from every message.  I'll try to return to that policy.
> Anybody else with me?
> 
> --Paul Worth--
> pworth@valdosta.edu
> 
> ob.ww:  I'm using Formby's "Tung Oil Finish" on a cherry night
> stand I just finished.  It's very thin and easy to apply, yet
> builds up to a nice sheen remarkably fast.  It's also nice to
> use something that recommends the palm of your hand as an applicator.
ob.ww
Paul - cool. I know what you mean about palm finishing. I've been using
Watco for the past 17 years and there's nothing like the finishing stage
of the project. I've spent many hours rubbing a finish into the project.
If you want a deep finish using this product (and/or Tung Oil) you'll
have to apply several coats to get it to build up in the pores of the
wood. The closer to the surface you build the finish the more it'll
shine. I always apply, at a MINIMUM, 2 coats of finish with the 2nd coat
applied using 600grit wet/dry paper. I always apply 2 coats of Watco
satin wax - always applied with 600 grit and as much hand rubbing as I
can get in before the wax begins to dry. I buff it out with a buffing
wheel - getting this wax to shine is VERY HARD to do by hand (my
shoulder won't take it).
For Christmas my wife got me (upon request) a can of BRI wax. I haven't
tired it yet but looking forward to it. It is a combination of Carnarba
(sic) and bees wax. The Carnarba wax is VERY hard and therefore will
provide a very nice shine.


From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:48 EST 1997
Article: 184039 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Construction of Solid Core door?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 22:49:19 GMT
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I used a solid core door and cut out enough to slide in an 8" Sears saw
just left of center and used angle iron to reinforce the edges. It doubles
as a woorbench. It is 31" high x 80" x 36" 

John


From woodwork@injersey.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:50 EST 1997
Article: 184040 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom <woodwork@injersey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: More CFM's from your DC ??
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:47:05 -0500
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I just heard that you can get additional cfm's by doing the following to
the dc fan.  Remove all paint (sandblast or other); sand it glass
smooth, paint with a quality enamel then apply wax.

Anyone do this ??  I plan to during next downtime.  Tom.


From p-burke@uchicago.edu Sat Feb 15 11:48:52 EST 1997
Article: 184041 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Burke <p-burke@uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Oak for table legs
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Douglas Fisher wrote:
> 
> In article <19970207170201.MAA00695@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> ggkinzer@aol.com writes
> >Hi,
> >We are in north central IL and my husband is unable to find 4x4 inch oak
> >sticks to turn some legs for a table.  Found this newsgroup and wondered
> >if anyone has any ideas about finding what we need.  Please send e-mail
> >to: [ggkinzer@aol.com].
> >
> >Thank you very much,  Gilda Kinzer
> 
> Gilda,
> 
> Being in the UK I'm sorry I can't help with your question but I love
> your use of the word 'sticks'
> --
> Douglas Fisher

Gilda,

Being in Northern Indiana, I might be able to help you with your
question.

I go to White Lumber, technically in Valparaiso, IN, though actually
it's out in the sticks off of IN 149, about 3 to 5 miles south of US
20.  Depending upon where you are in N. Cent. IL it might be a hike, and
I would call before I went, but they usually have tons of oak, white and
red, of many thicknesses.  They are a sawmill, not a lumber yard, and
they let you pick through if you put it back.

Their info:

White Lumber
516 N. County Road 325 W
Valpo, IN
759-2592

While I haven't heard of "soft spots" in thick oak (from another post),
it does tend to twist and check more readily than the thinner boards,
probably because of uneven drying.  Best of luck.


-- 
Patrick Burke
Technical Writer/Training Specialist
Biological Sciences Division Academic Computing
The University of Chicago
p-burke@uchicago.edu
5-1282


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:53 EST 1997
Article: 184042 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:07:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Actually, my wife and I thought that was hilarious.  We need a little more
humor in all of our lives.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------
From: mill0440@itlabs.umn.edu (HENRY W MILLER)
Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:20:21 GMT
Message-ID: <5dv7v5$ade@epx.cis.umn.edu>

NOT WOODWORKING!  Non-US people probably have no interest in the content!

ANDREW BARSS (barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU) wrote:
: In article <32FB5AE8.7A66@amityedu.com>, Lyn <info@amityedu.com> writes:
: >FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN
: Three reasons a lot of people think you're a jackass for posting stuff
like
: that:

: (1)  It's sexist and mean.
: (2)  It has nothing to do with this forum.
: (3)  It's pathetically unfunny.

Since you seem to be from the US, be aware the freedom of speech is
WROTHLESS
if you do not have the right to offend people.  Thus number one is not 
consisent with the idea citicens claim to hold most dear.
two is perfectly corrent, it has nithing to do with this forum, but the
best response to such things is thought to be keeping quite and letting it
die, rather then responding to it.  (I know, I'm not following my own
advice)
three is a matter of taste, I thought it was funny, but not so much so
that I 
read more then the fourth reason.




From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:54 EST 1997
Article: 184043 of rec.woodworking
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From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Flash Rust Everywhere
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:05:52 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
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Michael Gilmore <mgilm@freeway.net> wrote:
...
>but was afraid of damaging something.  And it's hard to sand drill and router 
>bits. If anyone has any suggestions I would be very glad to hear them.  I am 
>just sick about this.

I've had pretty good luck with LPS 2 and a scotch brite pad or brass
brush.  Occasionally a wire brush in my drill or dremal tool.
For some reason, I've just never gotten on well with WD40.

I've also had pretty good luck with electrolysis on some heavy rust
on old tools.  There is a web page that describes the process.  I 
don't have the URL, but I originally found it using altavista.

Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid) also works very well, but I don't
like the darkening of the metal that results.  So I use it only
on surfaces that I plan to re-paint.  It can be removed with
a wire brush or scotch brite pad.

A product that comes highly recommended, but which I havn't tried
myself is Knorrostol which is available through SPI distributers.

Cheers,
Gary Lowell
glowell@engr.sgi.com


From chuckf42@eosinc.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:56 EST 1997
Article: 184044 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Chuck Frank" <chuckf42@eosinc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:15:22 GMT
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Can't speak for the Bosch, but I have the Porter Cable and I am very happy
with it. Power, tool quality, etc. are excellent. The only "problem" is 
Porter Cable's use of two wrenches to change a bit. A bit cumbersum, but
otherwise o.k.

Dory Joe <doryjoe@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970213205900.PAA05481@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I am going to buy either the Porter Cable or Bosch D handle 1 1/2 HP
> router.  I already have a routher that stays in router table, so the D
> Handle will stay put together for hand use.  Any suggestions as to which
> is the best, most comfortable, etc. to use.  Thanks
> 


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:58 EST 1997
Article: 184045 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 18:10:00 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:
snip
>  I'm
> wondering how water resistant the results will be.
> 
> Rich
Rich,
Both the Tung Oil (which is really a varnish) as well as Danish Oil
finishes all have some resistance to water. Alcolhol (sic) is another
story. In any case with any of these hand applied oil finishes you need
to apply a wax coat to in order to provide better protection.
 
Heres the biggest down side, and it might never effect one of your
projects. Oh by the way, I don't believe there's a nicer finish anywhere
than the soft finish. High Gloss is OK if that's what you want, a finish
that is ON TOP of the wood and not in it. It has it's place, it depends
on what type of environment the project is going to be placed in.

Any way - the down side. I made a table for our eat-in portion of the
kitchen. It's bar height (40") 6' long and 42" wide. I started out with
1 1/2" stock and ended up with 1 3/8" on the final product. It's made
>from  Walnut and is ABSOLUTLY BEAUTIFUL ! Seats 6 bar stools with
upholsted barrel backs with wood arms and feet to match.
I don't know how many coats of oil I have on it (many - not less than 5
and not more than 9) and about 4 coats of wax. 
Now - when something HOT is placed on the table it has an effect on the
finish. Fortunatly since I've been using this type of finish for years I
knew this would happen. The finish takes on a LIGHT HUE where the hot
item was place. If someone makes toast and puts it on a paper plate and
places it on the table you will be able to see the outline of the bread
!! WOW you might say, me too. This effect is really only in the WAX coat
and I believe that if you used a HARDER wax that you might not see this.
But then again - if you're into a HARD finsh use a brush or spray on. 
SO - after a while (maybe once a year or two, or when the mood strikes
me and I can't stand it any longer). I simply REAPPLY the Watco wax.
Problem solved - all marks and traces are gone.
One of the REALLY nice things about the Danish oils is that a NEW
APPLICATION will break down old layers of wax. You can use the netural
oil and therefore not contine to darken the wood. Except we all know
that anything that touches wood (especailly dark woods) tends to make
them darker already. 
Enjoy you rub finish ! It's the only way to go in my book.


From Odeen@cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:48:59 EST 1997
Article: 184046 of rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: clamps
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 18:19:20 -0500
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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Bennett Leeds writes:

[Bessey Clamps rule]

Yup. The right angle clamps are also swell, and simple to use. As for the
rather high price, try to hold off until one of the Woodworking shows
comes around, they usually run a special on 'em then. Oh, and for those of
you who do smaller projects, small spring clamps are great. They're also
life savers, as a nearly instant helping hand while gluing up large
pieces. An elaborate network of spring clamps, hanging from the joists in
your garage are quite the conversation piece.



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:00 EST 1997
Article: 184047 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 18:14:32 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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This is a strange thread for the conversation that we got goining about
OIL finishes - no?


From bpeeler@xmission.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:01 EST 1997
Article: 184048 of rec.woodworking
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From: bpeeler@xmission.com (Bill Peeler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: clamps
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:27:19 GMT
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In message <5dvkmv$l5a@enquirer.corp.adobe.com> - bennett@adobe.com
(Bennett Leeds)13 Feb 1997 17:57:51 GMT writes:
:>
:>
:>I hate pipe clamps and will not have any in my shop. I sold my pipe
:>clamps years ago and have never looked back.
:>
<snip>

:>Like some others who have posted, I've got a nice set of Bessey K-Body 
:>clamps (the Gross-Stabil clones are reported to be good, too). These
:>clamps are strong, the jaws are large, they are quick to adjust, they 
:>don't stain your work, they don't crush your work: they're simply a
:>pleasure to use. A good starter set for furniture making would be 2 each of 
:>the 12", 24", 30", and 40" sizes. Yeah, we're talking well about $250 in 
:>clamps, but I easily use them more than I use my $325 chopsaw. 

<snip>

>
:>- Bennett Leeds
:>bennett@adobe.com
:>
:>Opinions are mine alone.


what do you people think about the jorgensen (sic) i beam
shaped steel clamps?  i realize the jaws are not much longer
than the pipe clamp jaws.

bill

----------------------------
bpeeler@xmission.com



From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:02 EST 1997
Article: 184049 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP me finish my window,door,&baseboard trim????
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:19:04 GMT
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MSass 1 writes
>   I'm refinishing all woodwork in my old house....
1) Hey the living room & dining room trim looks ...{like} oak I'm sure...
> Rest of trim has more grainy wild pattern but very hard-any ideas??? 

Impossible to tell you what you've got without even being able to see it.
Could be ash, could be chesnut, could be another kind of oak - could be 
almost anything.


> 2) Should I put all trim back on wall before restaining???                                     

No!


3) Should I give all trim a fine sanding before refinishing???                                

Depends on the current surface, and if there's any stripping residue left.
Did you use a neutralizer? Are you happy with the current surface?
Finish won't make it better.


> 4) Should I repair all nail holes & miner imperfections?

I wouldn't. Any piece that you can't live with should probably be
replaced. Be prepared to live with a lot - it's an old house after all
and the dings and dents, etc. are part of its character.


> 5) I'm looking for a nice golden-not orange color?? Shellac,oil,stain-
> what should  I use-for trim?? Then do I seal with laquor,polyurethane 
> etc.??Can I just use an all in one RED DEVIL DOG product??I spent too much 
> time stripping 5layers of paint  and old dark stain off this wood with 
> chemicals & elbow power to mess up now!!    

I wouldn't use the Red Devil stuff. Do you know what was on their originally,
or have you stripped it all away without investigating? How old is the 
house? Shellac sounds like it'll give you the color you want, with some
reasonable wear resistance. I wouldn't use lacquer or polyurethane: too
thick.

Whatever you choose, test it on the backs of some of the wider baseboards 
to be sure you like the results.


> 7) Have a few small crack-down middle from ends of mostly baseboards-
> should I glue and clamp or will finish hide or nothing i can do???                                       

I'd glue and clamp cracks before finishing.


> 8) Have two baseboards with chunks notched out or damaged during demolition 
> any repair ideas???? 

You can cut pieces from stock you're not going to reuse or from new stock, 
but you'll probably see the repair. It'll be a judgement call whether the
repair looks OK - if not replace the whole piece. Can you reproduce the
profiles?


> 9) Is it worth trying to de-nail ,strip ,sand & finish all
> that little border trim and  crown molding??? Some of it got demo-ed!?

Have you priced what new replacements will cost?

    
> 10) Can I glue trim back to wall with liquid nails or other adhesive and
> use fewer or no nails?? If I gotta nail it -what size nail Boards 
> 3/4in.thick & 1/2in. drywall??? Should I pre drill holes-very hard nail 
> bending stuff!? How many nails per foot??  That liquid nails is sweet and 
> strong????Whats best????

Don't use liquid nails. Imagine how you'd be cursing now if that had been 
used originally. Nail it, using finish nails or brads. Use the same nail
holes where possible.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From hwdsolu@roman.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:03 EST 1997
Article: 184050 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Stephen P. Reaves" <hwdsolu@roman.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Save$HardwoodFlooring
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 18:10:30 -0500
Organization: hardwood solutions
Lines: 14
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Welcome to Hardwood Solutions.We specialize in selling all leading
manufacturers of hardwood flooring. We ship nationwide to anywhere. Our
mission is a very simple one. Hardwood flooring is all that we do!Our
business operates on high volume, low margins and overhead.This allows
us to pass along substantial savings to you, also give you straight
answers about your particular project. Your time is valuable Make an
informed decision.

Call us today at 1-800-863-0798  or visit our site
http://public-image.com/hwdsolutions.html    for much more information


Hope to speak with you soon,
Stephen


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:04 EST 1997
Article: 184051 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: 11 Feb 1997 22:59:03 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
Lines: 18
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In article <5dlb5q$pkj@camel4.mindspring.com>, mike2m@pipeline.com says...

>I have a scanner and would be willing to scan any non copy written
>plans
>Mike


FWIW-you don't even need a scanner if your modem is a fax/modem and you have 
access to someone's fax machine. Most fax software is able to convert a fax 
into some standard image format. Send the fax in high-resolution, line 
drawing mode.

I have noticed that when most people ask to share, they want me to share my 
plans with them and they share their thanks with me!

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/heartland/8108



From sag09@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:05 EST 1997
Article: 184052 of rec.woodworking
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From: sag09@aol.com (Sag09)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:46:49 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Stan R. writes:
>I would have said that too until this last order. I'm waiting two weeks
now for it, as of today. The customer service people have been nice and
all, and I really like their bits, but this time the delay is
overwelming. >
I have to agree with this, I've ordered from them twice, and both times
theres been
problems. First time I really needed a 13/64 vix bit for a job in
progress. I ordered 
a couple of other things while I was at it. After a coulple of weeks I
call and was
told a bandsaw blade that I had also ordered was on back order, so they
held
up the entire order. To there credit they shipped the vix bit overnight
after I sang 
the blues.Second order was a simple set of 8" joiner knives. Didn't arrive
after a 
week so I call again, was told again they were on back order, so I wasted
a week
waiting for something that was never even shipped. One would think someone
could have picked a phone and called me instead of leaving me hanging.I
don't
argue with the praise of there products, but that doesn't do me alot of
good
if they can't get it to me. 



From dan2647@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:06 EST 1997
Article: 184053 of rec.woodworking
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From: dan2647@aol.com (Dan2647)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Drill Press Vibration
Date: 13 Feb 1997 23:50:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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You may also try checking the your pully spindles. On mine the spindle
hole on the motor was off center about 1/16 of an inch.  I replaced it
(cost about $12.00) and that fixed the problem


From ichabod@delphi.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:07 EST 1997
Article: 184054 of rec.woodworking
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From: Carroll <ichabod@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Powermatic jointer problem
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 19:00:22 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184054

damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> writes:
 
>> Forget the Model 54.  It is just cheap crap.  Get a model 50 or a
>> model 60.  Those are real machines.
 
So why did WOOD MAGAZINE rate the PM 54 so highly?
Maybe PM buys the most advertising space?


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:08 EST 1997
Article: 184055 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench top within .001"????
Date: 14 Feb 1997 00:04:32 GMT
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Called a local shop. Told them what I had and they said they could sand it
down to .001" across the 32" width and several thousandth's of a inch
across its 8 ft length. They can sand down in .001" increments. The
minimum shop charge is $20.  It's either that or spend the next 3 weeks of
my life (and probably another 1/2" of wood) trying to make it reasonably
flat.  They made it REAL clear that it better not have any metal on or in
it and that it's not painted or otherwise treated.  I hoping that by next
Monday that I'll have the top assembled so I (actually we) can bring it to
the shop. Now I know why they charge so much for maple butcher block
benchtops. Talk about a royal PIA!! But, I've learned a lot and I would do
it over again.

About the INCA:  I didn't buy the aluminum. I figured, hey, it's only
money and you only live once so I bought the 12" model (iron top). It's
only $2400 or so at Garrett-Wade.  I've been cutting a lot of thick maple
with it and haven't had any real problems. I believe that the less than
perfect cuts are due to my lack of expertise in how I feed in the wood
then the saw itself. Although the standard blade guard is better than
other stock models, I've had to remove it at times which I really don't
like doing. Question: Why does Garrett-Wade still show the original Swiss
Inca saw in their ad's?

As far at the miter slots go, they're inverted 'T' slots. Don't know if
they're standard or not.

After using it now for a few months, here are my impressions so far (mind
you, I've never seen or touched a good Delta/P66/General).  Very quiet,
vibration-free, good dust pickup from the cabinet but a dust collector in
the blade guard would help immensely, the crappiest miter guage in the
world. I think the magnetic switch is dying (sometimes, I have to push
hard several times to get it to start) and I still don't like the tiny
little on/off buttons. Garrett-Wade has honored their warranty quite well
with near overnight shipments (just some minor components; nothing worth
mentioning). Comes with a tool kit which I found to be very handy.
Adjustments are fairly easy and I'm not mechanically inclined. Once
adjusted, stays adjusted. Adjusting the Sears was pure torture!

Aside from the miter guage, yes, I think it is a 'Swiss Watch'.  Since I
have a Dewalt 12" CMS, I don't get too bothered about the miter guage.
Would I buy it again? Yes. Is $2400 or so too much for a  TS for a hobby?
That's for you to decide. I'm shocked by the price of disposable cars but
millions of people buy them.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say, it's better to burn out, then to fade away"
----------------------------------------------------------------
Subject:  Re: Workbench top within .001"????
From:  Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date:  Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:11:23 +0000
Message-ID: <33025C15.22B4@worldnet.att.net>

Dear Weasel,

I'm pretty sure that your comments are tongue-in-cheek as there is no
way that this person can measure that accurately.  To do so would
require either a very high grade large granite surface plate, or a large
Cordax (sp?) machine adn a very well temperature and humidity controlled
environment.  But you know all this.  Kind of goes with the recent
thread about using calipers too much.

For the fun of it, I did some checking to see what it would have
required to validate his assertion.    An inspection grade Starrett
surface plate would suffice here.  In the 36 by 60 inch size (10"
thick), it is flat to .0004".  Only weighs 2065 pounds and costs $2200. 
I'm sure Mr. Kirby has one of these.  Don't we all.  They do make
wonderful workbench tops.  Note that a toolroom grade surface plate
would barely do as it is only good to .0007.  

Also, thanks for the story below.  I nearly split my sides laughing. 
More than makes up for the Highland Hardware furor (marketing by Chris
Bagby?).  

Dave Druckerman

P.S. I saw some post recently mentioning that you got the 12" Inca TS. 
Do you have the new one with the cast iron top or the older with the
aluminum top?  What has been your impression?  Is it the "Swiss Watch"
that it is reputed to be?  (yes, I know, they're made in France now) 
Are the miter gauge slots U.S. standard T-slots?  The catalog made
specific reference to being U.S. standard on the 10 inch, but no mention
on the 12 inch.  Started me wondering about this.   I think I'll be
ordering my saw in March.  


From artis@hms.bkc.lv Sat Feb 15 11:49:09 EST 1997
Article: 184056 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Artis" <artis@hms.bkc.lv>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.crafts.professional
Subject: WOOD TRADE DATA BASE new address
Date: 13 Feb 1997 20:03:49 GMT
Organization: HMS
Lines: 3
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WOOD TRADE DATA BASE additional address is http://www.hms.bkc.lv/aek/

Any questions are welcome to: lf@mail.bkc.lv


From kahuna2@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:10 EST 1997
Article: 184057 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Kevin Duff <kahuna2@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: keyless chucks
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:08:52 -0800
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I have a DeWalt 3/8 drill, model DW 100 I think. I bought a Jacobs keyless chuck to 
replace the keyed one it came with. There is no set screw inside the old chuck to remove 
it. Has anyone changed chucks on this drill before? Help!!!!! If anybody can be of help 
, email me some instruction. Thaks a million....Kevin Duff


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:11 EST 1997
Article: 184058 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 21:54:52 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <5e02jc$gse@lu3.in.net>
References: <32F2CD0C.8F0@california.com> <19970209154301.KAA12660@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ffd3aa.201586195@news> <01bc199d$af36df20$760d8ea7@princeman> <33033FE0.3F0C@queens.org> <33035FC9.3510@worldnet.att.net>
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>Dennis Burns wrote:
>
>> Don't you wonder where all these reconditioned tools from Dewalt are
>> coming from?.

In article <33035FC9.3510@worldnet.att.net>, B.WINGARD@worldnet.att.net 
says...

>I asked the DeWalt factory rep the same thing . . . . in Pigeon Forge TN. 
last year.   Most
>of the stuff is damaged cartons/boxes that, by company policy cannot be
>re-packaged and sold as new . . . it is re-packed into generic white
>boxes and sodl as "REFURBISHED".  . . . 
>In reality, only a very small percentage of the refurb. stuff has ever been
>in the hands of a customer.

You could be right but I doubt it. I've looked at the selection at my B&D 
service center and most of the DeWalt stuff has enough left-over grime and 
abrasions on the plastic to suggest some on-the-job use, not just presale 
handling. I think the rep was trying to put the best spin on his product.

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From ichabod@delphi.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:12 EST 1997
Article: 184059 of rec.woodworking
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From: Carroll <ichabod@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good ideas for "TOOLS NOT FOR LOAN!" signs?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 19:13:09 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <pbL7wgV.ichabod@delphi.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184059

John Luby <jluby@globalnet.co.uk> writes:
 
>My own notice for discouraging borrowers is:
 
         Real men own their own tools


From kahuna2@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:13 EST 1997
Article: 184060 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin Duff <kahuna2@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:23:44 -0800
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Dennis Burns wrote:
> 
> plathrop wrote:
> >
> > Alan P. Kefauver <apk2@home.com> wrote in article
> > <32ffd3aa.201586195@news>...
> > > I buy (bought) all my Dewalt tools from the B&D serviice center. Each
> > > has a sticker that says factory reconditioned. Saved a lot and have
> > > had no trouble.
> > > 3 sanders, an electric hand planer, 3 drills, 2 routers, 2 circular
> > > saws, and a jig saw.
> > >
> > >
> > > deaneg@aol.com (DeanEG) wrote:
> > >
> > > >I have purchased both dewalt 12V drill and saw and each arrived without
> > > >narry a scratch or a cosmetic element suggesting previous exposure to
> > the
> > > >air much less any use. They have been perfect. I would recommend them
> > any
> > > >time. The warranty is the same and they are absolutely indistinguishable
> > > >from brand new.
> >
> > I bought (reconditioned) a 12v saw and drill kit($219) but it got swiped
> > before I could use it.  2 monthes later I went back got a  14.4v saw and
> > drill kit($224 my brother and I think they put the wrong price on it at the
> > B&D service center, we think it was suppose to be $324). I use them almost
> > every day no problem.  Many drywall screws and the saw works great to.  I
> > even got my bose(father-in-law) to buy the same drill(reconditioned).  I
> > want to get another one but the B&D service centers will no longer sell the
> > reconditioned Dewalt tools.  They are selling them to Habor freight and
> > NorthernH.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> 
> Don't you wonder where all these reconditioned tools from Dewalt are
> coming from?.Anybody ever see a Porter Cable factory refurbished center? Of course 
not, cuz the stuff never breaks like the cheesy Dewalt stuff.


From mungo@highway1.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:16 EST 1997
Article: 184061 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Mungo <mungo@highway1.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: PICKLED OAK REMOVAL
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 01:10:09 -0500
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Please help!, I am trying to remove pickled oak stain from some chairs. 
 How can this be done, I have tried stripper, (sanding) and when I think 
it is gone, nothing will adhere to the material.


From bobjones@bak2.lightspeed.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:18 EST 1997
Article: 184062 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: bobjones@bak2.lightspeed.net (Bob Jones)
Subject: Re: Information on Woodworkers Warehouse
Message-ID: <2d7cd$101732.34b@LSNT1>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:27:33 GMT
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rouleau@eznet.net (Jon A Rouleau) wrote:

>On 26 Jan 1997 20:00:45 GMT, "Dave Smits" <smits@frontiernet.net>
>wrote:

>>I just saw a listing that a new Woodworkers Warehouse is opening in my
>>up-state New York area.  I am familiar with the Trendlines catalog, but
>>have never even been in a Woodworkers Warehouse store.  Are they on a par
>>with The Woodworker's Store?
>>How are their prices compared to the catalog? compared to Home Depot? 
>>Anybody know if they have a web site?
>>
>>Thanks in advance!
>>
>Woodworkers warehouse is the retail store for Trendlines

And for all y'all further out west, Post Tools is the retail outlet
for Trendlines.





From test@wood.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:19 EST 1997
Article: 184063 of rec.woodworking
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From: test@test.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Test
Date: 14 Feb 1997 00:36:57 GMT
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test test test



From jaz@gwis.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:20 EST 1997
Article: 184064 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:18:17 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
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Bennett Leeds wrote:
[misc ranting and raving omitted]

It was a joke son... Perhaps you should take a break from all that
Postscript programming...

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From Plecostamus@Fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:21 EST 1997
Article: 184065 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@Fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:46:10 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 24
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 20:44:51 GMT, scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom
Gauldin) wrote:

>
>Several years ago, I made a plan available in this newsgroup for an Adirondack
>chair and footstool.  The file is called jake.zip and is in my ftp site
>ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl  
>
snip
>Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
>Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
>fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
>                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.
>
>
Tom, I visited your site and downloaded your plans for Jakes chair. I
will buiding a lot of outdoor stuff this spring and yours will be a
part of that.  Thanks for sharing those plans!

Joe Watkins
<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From rtt@synapse.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:22 EST 1997
Article: 184066 of rec.woodworking
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From: rtt@synapse.net (Richard Tomkins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:Craftsman Radial part required
Date: 14 Feb 1997 00:52:34 GMT
Organization: neuron, technology consultants
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Whoops, my e-mail setting was incorrect, golly, should check these
things before using them shouldn't I.

In any event, this e-mail fixes the durn thing and any one with ideas
on this part for the Radial Arm saw is more than welcome to send
replies.

Many thanks, Richard Tomkins


This MIND left BLANK Intentionally!


From Plecostamus@Fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:23 EST 1997
Article: 184067 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@Fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:54:35 GMT
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On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:22:24 -0500, Paul Worth
<pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> wrote:

>Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:
>> 
>> snip...notes about the lack of plans online...
>
>> I think we are missing a terrific resource here.  I know that we can't
>> use binaries on this NG but there are ways that have been discussed.
>> I would even be happy to start a web page for that purpose if you guys
>> and  gals think it would be a contribution.
>> 
>I don't know if he would be interested in hosting a library for all
>our plans but Gary at http://www.theoak.com/gary has links to plans
>all over the net.  If you haven't visited his site, check it now.
>Anybody else willing to volunteer?
>
>I suppose it would be easiest if we could put some guidelines on
>file types, filenames, and archive formats.  I don't know how 
>much disk space I could get, but if Gary isn't willing to do it,
>I'd be willing to host the library as long as I have space and
>time to handle it.
>
>-=Paul Worth=-
>pworth@valdosta.edu
That's a very generous offer. Thanks for making it.  As far as format
etc. is concerned, the exchange standard in the CAD industry is DXF.
That is usually handled by most of the CAD programs out there today.
Pictures are probably best done in JPEG format to save space. They are
compacted pretty well in that format.

** JOE **

<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From jskinner@i-55.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:24 EST 1997
Article: 184068 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeds.sol.net!hunter.premier.net!news
From: Johnny Skinner <jskinner@i-55.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1 to 3 phase converter info
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:00:19 -0800
Organization: Premier One
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mpautz@interserv.com wrote:
> 
> I am interested in where to obtain information on how static and rotory single to three phase converters
> work.  I currently have a text book on a simple static converter using a run capacitor, a switch, and a
> start capacitor.
> 
> There must be more info on making the starting more automatic.  I haven't found anything on rotary
> converters.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Static converters can work, but with reduced horsepower.  For an article
on building a rotary phase converter go to:

http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html

Haven't done it, but this information looks excellent.  Rotary is the
way to go!

Good Luck,
Johnny Skinner


From dadadata@friend.ly.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:26 EST 1997
Article: 184069 of rec.woodworking
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From: dadadata@friend.ly.net (craig o'donnell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Persimmon, Persimmon Oil?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:24:15 -0500
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Anyone know of a source for persimmon oil? Some of us were discussing old
Chinese wood-treating methods and persimmon oil came up.

Me, I've never heard of it.

-- COD 
   craig o'donnell             |||  author of Cool Mac Sounds
   dadadata@friend.ly.net 
   craig_o'donnell@bmugbos.org
  
-- "What ho, Mercutio"  [Wm Shaksper]
-- "What? Homer Simpson?!" [M Groening]


From attel@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:26 EST 1997
Article: 184070 of rec.woodworking
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From: attel@worldnet.att.net (Victor Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: 13 Feb 1997 19:59:13 -0500
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>>>>> "Frank" == Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com> writes:
In article <3301D17B.7590@earthlink.com> Frank Howell <fphowell@earthlink.com> writes:

Frank> Dan Wolf wrote:
>>  I just bought a Contractors saw based on the positive info in the
>> group.  After assembly I noticed the blade doesn't retract all the
>> way down.  About 1/16" still extends above the table.  What's the
>> problem?  Shouldn't the blade drop all of the way down and into the
>> table.

I think there's an adjustable ring with a set screw on the shaft of
the hand wheel that controls where the wheel bottoms out.  Maybe it's
set in the wrong place.



From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:27 EST 1997
Article: 184071 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I Tried Frank's Jig -- It Sucks
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 01:05:34 GMT
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Everybody read the post!
By US Code Title47,Sec.227(b)(1)(B),a computer/modem/printer
meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)
(C),it is unlawful to send any unsolicited commercial e-mail 
to such equipment,punishable by action to recover actual
monetary loss or $500.US,whichever is greater,for each violation.
remove X to reply


From jskinner@i-55.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:28 EST 1997
Article: 184072 of rec.woodworking
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From: Johnny Skinner <jskinner@i-55.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 40 Reasons Dogs . . .
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:06:54 -0800
Organization: Premier One
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Hackwood wrote:
> 
> Actually, my wife and I thought that was hilarious.  We need a little more
> humor in all of our lives.
> 
> Weasel (tm)
> 
> "I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
> From: mill0440@itlabs.umn.edu (HENRY W MILLER)
> Date: 13 Feb 1997 14:20:21 GMT
> Message-ID: <5dv7v5$ade@epx.cis.umn.edu>
> 
> NOT WOODWORKING!  Non-US people probably have no interest in the content!
> 
> ANDREW BARSS (barss@SkyBlu.CCIT.Arizona.EDU) wrote:
> : In article <32FB5AE8.7A66@amityedu.com>, Lyn <info@amityedu.com> writes:
> : >FORTY REASONS WHY DOGS ARE BETTER THAN WOMEN
> : Three reasons a lot of people think you're a jackass for posting stuff
> like
> : that:
> 
> : (1)  It's sexist and mean.
> : (2)  It has nothing to do with this forum.
> : (3)  It's pathetically unfunny.
> 
> Since you seem to be from the US, be aware the freedom of speech is
> WROTHLESS
> if you do not have the right to offend people.  Thus number one is not
> consisent with the idea citicens claim to hold most dear.
> two is perfectly corrent, it has nithing to do with this forum, but the
> best response to such things is thought to be keeping quite and letting it
> die, rather then responding to it.  (I know, I'm not following my own
> advice)
> three is a matter of taste, I thought it was funny, but not so much so
> that I
> read more then the fourth reason.


I agree with Hackwood.  I work with wood 8-10 hours a day so you might
say I've got sawdust in my veins, but I enjoyed the humorous diversion.
My wife also found it very funny.  

Cheers, 
Johnny


From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:29 EST 1997
Article: 184073 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joseph S. Colson, Jr." <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:15:28 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Dory Joe wrote:
> 
> I am going to buy either the Porter Cable or Bosch D handle 1 1/2 HP
> router.  I already have a routher that stays in router table, so the D
> Handle will stay put together for hand use.  Any suggestions as to which
> is the best, most comfortable, etc. to use.  Thanks

I've got the PC691 and I'd recommend it.  Lightweight, easy to handle,
good power for edge treatment and general routing.  Most accessories fit
it easily.

Joe


From john_scheffel@sj.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:30 EST 1997
Article: 184074 of rec.woodworking
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From: John N Scheffel <john_scheffel@sj.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 16:56:04 -0800
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co.
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Jack A. Zucker wrote:
> 
> Patrick L. Williams wrote:
> >
> > Just curious, what brand of router are these guys using?  It has a red
> > body and I don't recall ever seeing one before.
> 
> It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
> just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
> was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
> It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
> use whatever the sponser dictates !
> 

I went to a local router workshop a few years ago taught by
the guy (Bob Rosen???) from the show.  He was sold on Hitachi 
at the time and I guess still is.  I bought a 3HP Hitachi (single 
speed) based on his recommendation.  I was not happy with it.  
The collet system was adequate for 1/2" bits, but the 1/4"
insert was dangerous.  No matter how hard I torqued down
the collet with the cheesy stamped steel wrenches that
came with it, I had bits slip.  Once a 1/4" spiral carbide bit
slipped, dug in, broke off, and flew across the garage.
Made a nice dent in the wall which I was glad wasn't me.  

The Hitachi was an inexpensive 3HP plunge router, and looked it.  
There were several features where it was obvious quality was 
sacrified for cost.  They may have fixed these problems 
in the newer models, but I bought an Elu (now DeWalt) after 
that and am much more satisfied with it.  The collets, wrenches, 
edge guide, and switch are all of much better quality than the
Hitachi.

John Scheffel


From ejb@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:31 EST 1997
Article: 184075 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Bennett <ejb@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: how to square a try square
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:04:24 -0800
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P. Eric Chi wrote:
> 
> I have a Stanley try square ( with metal handle) which I got from a local
> hardware store quite a while back. I found it is NOT square. Is there anyway I
> can fix it?
> (BTW, it is too late to return it.)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Eric.
> 

Yes, there are ways to fix it.  I've read through two responses so far that 
advise you to beat it with a hammer/punch.  UUUUGGGGHHHH!  Perhaps this could 
help the condition of an el-cheapo framing square but you said "try square".  It 
surprises me that one even recommends it for an engineer's square (hardened 
steel and hammers/punches don't go well together).

If it's worth it to you, find a machine shop that is able to grind it.  I 
suspect, based on the brand name ("Stanley"), that you'd pay about 3-5 times 
what it's worth to have it ground.  You could try to go after it yourself with a 
file if you have a means to check squareness (the straight-edge/scribe the line 
method is marginally adaquate at best).  It's not easy but you could probably 
correct really gross error with this metod.

I suggest you learn a lesson from this experience and write off the cost of the 
square as an educational expense.  Then go shopping for a real square from a 
machine shop supplier (don't bother with the ultra expensive brass/rosewood 
stuff made for woodworkers).  Get one with an accuracy specification/
classification.  Expect to pay $30-$50.  Cheap tools always cost more to replace 
than buying good tools the first time.

-- 
Ed Bennett
ejb@primenet.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
http://www.primenet.com/~ejb


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:32 EST 1997
Article: 184076 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: 14 Feb 1997 01:13:24 GMT
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"Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com> writes
> Bennett Leeds wrote:
> [misc ranting and raving omitted]
> 
> It was a joke son... 

Oh, so yet another graduate from the Olguin school of "I wasn't wrong, I 
was only joking" posting defense.


> Perhaps you should take a break from all that Postscript programming...

Perhaps you should use a smiley now and then.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Just say Maybe he's now joking about his prior post being joking.

Opinions are mine alone.


From kenst@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:32 EST 1997
Article: 184077 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Stovesand <kenst@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:27:58 -0500
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michael buening wrote:
> How do people suppose these shows get produced and displayed on PBS?
> They money the average joe sends into the stations isn't going to cover
> this. 

I contend that NYWS and Woodwright are the "cash cows" of PBS and
trigger the lion's share of the pledges.  These shows could most
certainly be commercial hits and stand on their own.  PBS would not be
able to produce the specials such as "Genesis - The Living Conversation"
without NYWS and its defacto Delta sponsorship.  I'm not criticizing the
PBS environment - just recognize it for what it is and don't portray it
as without commercialism.

Regards,

Ken S.



From frankk@dmv.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:33 EST 1997
Article: 184078 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I Tried Frank's Jig -- It Sucks
Date: 14 Feb 1997 00:59:54 GMT
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Thanks Ed. Glad to be of service.

I knew you would like it once you tried it. I like the challenge of making
useful jigs to resolve difficult problems. The idea will also work if you
needed to run a dowel over a jointer to put a flat area the length of a
dowel.
-- 
Best -- Frank




From sumone@nowhere.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:34 EST 1997
Article: 184079 of rec.woodworking
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From: sumone@nowhere.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 04:57:15 GMT
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After owning it for almost 20 years, I  now have my Oliver
Patternmaker's lathe operational.  It is a Model E53 and is powered by
a Watson 1/2 HP, 220 v Direct Current motor.  The motor case is
stamped "Oliver" so I suppose the windings were done by Watson.  Best
guess is that it was built sometime between 1895 and 1920, the
approximate year AC current was introduced to my area of the country,
though it is possible that it was made for the US Navy to be used
aboard a ship using DC power.  

I operate it on 220 v AC through a rectifier and control speed by
means of a rheostat.  The lathe headstock is the motor.  The armature
shaft is hollow, has a No. 2 Morse taper on the inboard side and a one
and one-sixteenth, 8 TPI threaded shaft on the outboard end.

The inboard shaft (where the No. 2 MT is located) is also threaded
with a 1 1/16 x 8 TPI.

I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
etc.

Unless someone can steer me to a source or has an old chuck he will
sell me, I have to come up with a solution for adapting the 1 1/16 x 8
TPI shaft to accommodate a chuck.  

Since the shaft is hardened and since one would have to completely
disassemble the motor to weld up the shaft and recut it to 1 1/4" or
larger I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions.  Perhaps I could
have an adapter made to fit 1 1/16 and step up to 1 1/2.  Any
suggestions will be appreciated.  Even more would be info from anyone
else owning this lathe and their solution to the odd-sized shaft.

I do not know if my E-mail address will show up on this notice but if
it does please do not use it as I am having trouble with my mail
program and will probably not receive any E-mail messages sent. Please
reply to the rec.woodworking group with a posted notice.  Forgive the
verbosity but it seemed neccessary to explain the situation.




From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:35 EST 1997
Article: 184080 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Persimmon, Persimmon Oil?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:28:36 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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craig o'donnell wrote:
> 
> Anyone know of a source for persimmon oil?
snip

I don't know of a source - but if you're into golf at all you'd know
something about this oil.
This is the oil that was used to HARDEN the wooden drivers. Makes wood
extremely hard and is quite durable. You still need to put a hard
varnish over it if it's going to be exposed to the weather - like UV
rays and or rain.


From sales@mtcnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:36 EST 1997
Article: 184081 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: "Natures Music on CD"
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From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:37 EST 1997
Article: 184082 of rec.woodworking
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From: BOB Hendricks <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Chess sets?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:54:25 -0800
Organization: Kris's KaKtus
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dcm wrote:
> 
> I am still seeking information about turning/carving chess sets.
> Anyone done it or know any articles or books on the subject.
> --
> From: White Plains, New York, USA.

 A few years back "Fine woodworking" magazine had a really geat chess
set  artical I have it someplace in the stacks.They even tell you how to
make the knives they used. I'm going out of town till monday but I'll
look for it when I get back.
                             BOB


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:37 EST 1997
Article: 184083 of rec.woodworking
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From: BOB Hendricks <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 21:19:26 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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sumone@nowhere.com wrote:
> 
> After owning it for almost 20 years, I  now have my Oliver
> Patternmaker's lathe operational.  It is a Model E53 and is powered by
> a Watson 1/2 HP, 220 v Direct Current motor.  The motor case is
> stamped "Oliver" so I suppose the windings were done by Watson.  Best
> guess is that it was built sometime between 1895 and 1920, the
> approximate year AC current was introduced to my area of the country,
> though it is possible that it was made for the US Navy to be used
> aboard a ship using DC power.
> 
> I operate it on 220 v AC through a rectifier and control speed by
> means of a rheostat.  The lathe headstock is the motor.  The armature
> shaft is hollow, has a No. 2 Morse taper on the inboard side and a one
> and one-sixteenth, 8 TPI threaded shaft on the outboard end.
> 
> The inboard shaft (where the No. 2 MT is located) is also threaded
> with a 1 1/16 x 8 TPI.
> 
> I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
> the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
> be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
> etc.
> 
> Unless someone can steer me to a source or has an old chuck he will
> sell me, I have to come up with a solution for adapting the 1 1/16 x 8
> TPI shaft to accommodate a chuck.
> 
> Since the shaft is hardened and since one would have to completely
> disassemble the motor to weld up the shaft and recut it to 1 1/4" or
> larger I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions.  Perhaps I could
> have an adapter made to fit 1 1/16 and step up to 1 1/2.  Any
> suggestions will be appreciated.  Even more would be info from anyone
> else owning this lathe and their solution to the odd-sized shaft.
> 
> I do not know if my E-mail address will show up on this notice but if
> it does please do not use it as I am having trouble with my mail
> program and will probably not receive any E-mail messages sent. Please
> reply to the rec.woodworking group with a posted notice.  Forgive the
> verbosity but it seemed neccessary to explain the situation.

 I'm sending you a post I made the other day, it may help . my lathe has
not been set up for 30yrs. but I plan to soon.
                                        BOB

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>From  - Wed Feb 12 01:08:47 1997
From: Douglas Turner <turners@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: turners@earthlink.net
To: bob6666@worldnet.att.net
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Subject: Re: 2 old lathes
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bob6666 wrote:
> 
> Hi,all.
>  I need info. I have a (Rockwell) Delta lathe that I picked up at the
> Salvation Army for $25.00 complete (4 yrs ago). It's a"HOMECRAFT" model
> 46-230.
>  It has a cast Alm. head stock, cast iron bed and cast iron tail stock.
> It uses a #2MT head and tail.
>  I would really like to give it a complete overhaul.
>  Can any one help me out?
> 
>  My other lathe is a big question mark ?. It was my grandfather's that
> he bought from a friend in the 30's.  It's the one I learned on as a kid
> (I'm 48 now) and it's Big, (8' bed, 3/4 iron on 3x8 oak rails),  123 1/2
> lb. headstock, 72 lb. tailstock and rest of the stuff is really massive
> (4' tool rest).  My question on this lathe is, who made it and where can
> I find out about it?  I've looked on the head and tail stock, but can't
> find any information.  Is there a book on turn-of-the-century wood
> lathes? (The gentleman that my grandfather bought it from was a
> professional turner for a furniture manufacturer in Connecticutt.  He
> sold the lathe to my grandfather 5 years before he died, at 93 years of
> age.)  The reason I think it was an industrial lathe is that the head
> stock still has the massive, flat wood pulleys (6") that seem to be of
> the steam-powered age.  Any help would be appreciated, or if anyone out
> there can step me through identifying this dinosaur, I would be most
> appreciative.  BTW, I plan on setting it up as soon as I figure out how
> to build on to my shop and get a fork-lift in!
> 
>                                    Keep it turning,
>                                    Bob
> 
> P.S.  I even have the original electric motor that my grandfather had on
> this lathe.  It's 1 1/2 hp, and weighs 63 pounds!  I also have all the
> old turning tools that came with it.  Most are Buck Bros. with some
> Bruce Lakin thrown in (25 all together).  A lot of other things too
> numerous to list now, but if anyone is interested, I'll be glad to
> answer, and give a description.  All weights are true.
Bob,

Your Massive lathe sounds like an old Oliver because of the wood
pulleys.  I had one that was made in the 1920's and is still working for
someone else.  They are located in Grand Rapids Michigan. Things I
remember are  1 1/8"x8TPI headstock spindle, adjustable split bronze
bushings that never wear out, headstock castings were about 3/4 thick
cast iron. Mine still had the original black paint finish.  Oliver
doesn't have and manuals, but the parts never are almost
indestructable.  I can get inexpensive faceplates for you if that is the
size.

Doug Turner <turners@earthlink.net>

--------------463F57212E09--



From nnewhall@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:38 EST 1997
Article: 184084 of rec.woodworking
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From: Norm Newhall <nnewhall@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 21:35:15 -0800
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I was forced into using them back in 1984 for some camper repairs! 
That's all I could find in the stores, but being from Connecticut, it
meant they also got to sell me the screwdriver! :-)



From Private@Private.life Sat Feb 15 11:49:39 EST 1997
Article: 184085 of rec.woodworking
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From: Private <Private@Private.life>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 11:55:17 -0500
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Bradley A. Stolzer wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-01-27 06:52:57 EST, Druckerman@worldnet.att.net (Dave
> Druckerman) writes:
> 
> << > I'm curious how often the non-professionals among you out there are down
>  > > (or out) in your shop:  frequency, and duration at a shot.  My wife
>  > > occasionally rags on me (could be worse), and I'd like to know where I
>  > > stand in the distribution.  Me?  Well, it comes in fits and starts, but
>  > > probably averages out to about between 1 and 3 evenings per week, 3-4
>  > > hours at a shot, plus about 4-8 hours per weekend.
>  >
>  > 1 to 2 evenings a week, for about 20 minutes a shot. Mebbe 2 hours, on a
>  > good weekend. Most woodworking done while ostensibly taking out the trash,
>  > and getting "lost" in the garage. This past weekend was a notable
>  > exception, when I got about 5 total hours. Nearly completed something,
>  > imagine that.
>  >
>  > O'Deen
>   >>
> 2 evenings per week, 2-3 hours per evening, plus 3-4 hours on weekends.
>  Greatest disappoinment in life:  having the evening to do woodworking, but
> too tired to do it!!

If I'm really into a project then I spend about five hours a night,
three nights a week in the shop.  On the weekend I will spend an entire
day in the shop, then make sure that I spend the other day doing things
with my wife, um-err, live-in girlfriend.  She is very tolerant of shop
time if I'm making something for her, like a jewelry box or new bathroom
cabinetry.  I'm going to have a difficult time convincing her that my
next project, a boat, is for her though ;)


From bob6666@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:40 EST 1997
Article: 184086 of rec.woodworking
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From: BOB Hendricks <bob6666@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 21:34:12 -0800
Organization: Kris's KaKtus
Lines: 40
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Private wrote:
> 
> Bradley A. Stolzer wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 97-01-27 06:52:57 EST, Druckerman@worldnet.att.net (Dave
> > Druckerman) writes:
> >
> > << > I'm curious how often the non-professionals among you out there are down
> >  > > (or out) in your shop:  frequency, and duration at a shot.  My wife
> >  > > occasionally rags on me (could be worse), and I'd like to know where I
> >  > > stand in the distribution.  Me?  Well, it comes in fits and starts, but
> >  > > probably averages out to about between 1 and 3 evenings per week, 3-4
> >  > > hours at a shot, plus about 4-8 hours per weekend.
> >  >
> >  > 1 to 2 evenings a week, for about 20 minutes a shot. Mebbe 2 hours, on a
> >  > good weekend. Most woodworking done while ostensibly taking out the trash,
> >  > and getting "lost" in the garage. This past weekend was a notable
> >  > exception, when I got about 5 total hours. Nearly completed something,
> >  > imagine that.
> >  >
> >  > O'Deen
> >   >>
> > 2 evenings per week, 2-3 hours per evening, plus 3-4 hours on weekends.
> >  Greatest disappoinment in life:  having the evening to do woodworking, but
> > too tired to do it!!
> 
> If I'm really into a project then I spend about five hours a night,
> three nights a week in the shop.  On the weekend I will spend an entire
> day in the shop, then make sure that I spend the other day doing things
> with my wife, um-err, live-in girlfriend.  She is very tolerant of shop
> time if I'm making something for her, like a jewelry box or new bathroom
> cabinetry.  I'm going to have a difficult time convincing her that my
> next project, a boat, is for her though ;)
 Keep call the boat by your wifes(girlfriends) name, tell her it has
really great lines just like her. IT WORKED FOR ME!

                                           BOB

P.S.   don't ever refer to it as "SHE or HER" they don't like the
compation.


From tclapp@flash.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:41 EST 1997
Article: 184087 of rec.woodworking
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From: "T. W. Clapp" <tclapp@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: 14 Feb 1997 02:52:13 GMT
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I recommend the Freud Super Dado set.  Be careful where you buy it.  I
found the 8" set running as much as $325 in local stores, but bought from
WW Supply for about $150.  Freud also sells a cheaper "SAFETY" dado set,
but I am not familiar with it.

 I tried the Sears "SUPER EXCALIBUR" adjustable type...you know the one
that has two opposing tilted blades.  It didn't work worth a hoot!  I had
also tried their "BEST" Excalibur wobble type.  It looked good because
appeared good and sturdy for a wobble; but the blade had so much mass
(weight to you non-engineer types) that it caused excessive vibration in my
tablesaw.  I returned it without cutting a single board due to fear I would
destroy my saw bearings.

The Freud set is beautiful!

Mark Trombley <marktrom@rust.net> wrote in article
<01bc1637$10c9bc40$79523ece@main>...
> 
> 
> whylandj@kodak.com wrote in article <5dabn7$r8f@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>...
> > I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw. 
I
> have 
> > no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one
to
> buy. 
> > 
> > Thx,
> > Jeff Whyland
> > Rochester, NY
> > 
> > 
> I believe that Jet restricts you to a 6" diameter dado because of the
> arbor design (check your manual).  This is the case on both the JTAS
> and JWCS models.  Both Forrest and Freud make excellent 6"
> fine and super fine stacked dados.  Freud also has a new adjustable
> "Super" dado available in 6" but I have read nothing about it yet.  Amana
> and Sysmatic (Spelling?) also make very high quality dados.  I would
> recommend staying away from the "wobble" type dados as they will
> not cut a flat bottom and the edges will not be as clean as a good
> stacked dado.
> 
> Mark T.
> 


From scubaman@mhv.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:42 EST 1997
Article: 184088 of rec.woodworking
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From: scubaman@mhv.net (Richard Kleinhenz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Turned Pens
Date: 13 Feb 1997 01:37:36 GMT
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In message <19970212010001.UAA23711@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
rr121249@aol.com writes:
:>
:>While I'm not using a Shopsmith but a Drill Press, I made a simple jig for
:>centering and holding the square pen blanks.  This jig holds the blanks
:>upright and centers them.  It seems to work for me and you may be able to
:>convert the idea to a horizontal postion.  (Never used a Shopsmith)
:>
:>The jig is nothing more than a vertical wooden fence in the shape of an
:>inverted V, with the angle between the legs of 90 degrees mounted on a
:>sliding bed of plywood.  The sliding bed is mounted to a base with two
:>threaded rods running in two cutouts to allow front to back movement and
:>the ability to clamp the bed in place in relation ot the base.  
:>The vertical fence is nothing more than two pieces of 3/4 Plywood joined
:>at 90 degrees to each other and at 90 degrees to the base.  The squareness
:>(?) of the fence is very important, as if the fence is out of square with
:>the base or each other the drilling will not go straight.  I use a
:>replacable peice of plywood at the bottom of the fence for backing
:>purposes and to support the blank being drilled.  The height is just over
:>the height of the longest pen blank drilled plus 3/4" for the support
:>peice of wood.
:>There are a number of ways to hold the pen blanks while being drilled.  I
:>made a small piece of wood to hold the blank and is fastened to the fence
:>with screw knobs (Too cumbersome). You could use the hold-down type of
:>clamps (Too expensive), You could use a C-clamp (Too much pressure), Or,
:>You could use your finger pressure to hold the blank in place (A word
:>about shop safety :)) ) which I do now, which seems to work fine.
:>The reason the fence is mounted on a sliding bed is that the pen blanks
:>can be different thicknesses and you need to move the fence back and forth
:>to drill down the middle.  The sliding bed is secured by two screw down
:>knobs on 10-24 breadboard screws and ride in tow parallel slots in the
:>bed.
:>
        <snip>
:>Rick Rasmussen
:>rr121249@aol.com
:>

I held blanks with my fingers until I had a good blowout one day, and my
fingers, with the resistance suddenly gone, went smack into the bit. 
Lost 2 fingercaps.  I was lucky, it's nearly all healed, only a scar
left on one of the fingers with a sensation that I don't want to pick up
my guitar...  So, please spend the $10 and get a toggle clamp!

Here's a description of the setup I use on my Shopsmith.  It's the 3rd
build or so of the jig, and I am quite happy with it,  It's accurate and
fast, the cost was scrapwood and a $11.95 toggle clamp.

I use the SS in horizontal boring mode, out of convenience.  The main
fixture is a board that sits on the table, with stops that hook over
back and front of the table, so it's indexed on 2 sides and repositions
exactly the same place every time.  On it sits a v-block out of a pice
of 8/4 scrap hardwood.  Don't use softwood.  Each side of the V is about
1/2".  Behind it, I have another block, even with the bottom of the V. 
There's an 1/8" gap between the V block and it.  It has a bolt sticking
out the top, which I use to bolt on a piece of wood as depth stop.  I
precut a bunch of 2" squares, and I can use all 4 sides of one as they
wear out.  The point of the gap is for chip clearance.  The V block is
mounted exactly inline with the drill bit.  The only adjustment
necessary is table up and down movement to locate the hole very
accurately.  Easy on the SS!  I mount the jig, locate the hole
vertically by sighting eye.  When I set up, I tend to drill 10 or more
blank sets.  If I have different sizes: no problem, I drill them a pair
at a time, and the only adjustment potentially necessary is tableheight!

The way I clamp the piece is with a toggle clamp.  I use a variety of
woods, they are not always 3/4" square.  The toggle clamp adjusts easily
(I replaced one of the nuts with a wing nut).  To distribute the clamp
force, I use another piece of hardwood block, with the same V groove.  I
have 2 pieces, with different depth V grooves, to allow holding smaller
pieces also (so the 2 V-blocks don't clamp onto each other...).  The
whole jig is mounted with 2 appropriate C clamps to the table.  The one
in the rear is a quick-adjust one.

If you end up building a jig, you'll undoubtedly do through your own
iterations until it fits you just fine, and it'll incorporate the
feature YOU deem important.  And that make the best use of YOUR
equipment.

One other note on drill jig:  HUT products sells an interesting one. 
It's life a nutcracker lieing on its side:  hinged at 1 end, with a
couple of opposing V grooves of different depths a few inches from the
hinge.  The sides are maybe 15" long or so, maybe 1 3/4" x 1 3/4".  I
thought that was a neat setup for vertical drilling.  They sell the jig,
and have a dimensioned drawing in their littel pen turning manual.

Regards,

Rich




From scubaman@mhv.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:43 EST 1997
Article: 184089 of rec.woodworking
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From: scubaman@mhv.net (Richard Kleinhenz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop Smith
Date: 13 Feb 1997 01:01:58 GMT
Organization: MHVNet, the Mid Hudson Valley's Internet Connection
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <5dtp66$k0i$1@news.mhv.net>
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In message <19970208114901.GAA11649@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
eclark2918@aol.com (EClark2918) writes:
:>
:>I would like to know if Shop Smith has a web page on internet.  Anyone
:>know?

http://www.shopsmith.com  Who woulda thunk it?

Regards,

Rich




From XXdoutenXX@ibm.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:44 EST 1997
Article: 184090 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <XdoutenX@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HQ's new no-questions return policy
Date: 14 Feb 1997 03:07:16 GMT
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Defective and/or used merchandise is either trashed or returned to a
distribution center(used to go directly to the vendor).  The only major
exception to this are the MTD (outdoor) products.   This merchandise is
repaired and then sold as such.  I wonder why Home Depot booted their
mowers and tractors??   Returns have always been considered when pricing
products.  Items that have excessive returns tend to not get reordered. 
Everything gets returned so don't let that bother you.  When purchasing an
item nowadays you must keep the receipt because it eliminates some of the
less than honest practices that some individuals undertake.
                                                        Dave
---
**if replying by e-mail remove "X"s from address**

Terry Kester <tkester*@nei.com> wrote in article <33036A71.10FF@nei.com>...
> HQ (Home Quarters) is one of the big home centers in our area.  In their
> latest bid to get business, they say they will take back any tool you
> bring back (within 30 days, with a receipt) no questions asked, even if
> you have used it and don't have the box for it.  I was just wondering if
> anyone knows what they do with the tools you bring back?  I don't like
> the sounds of this new policy.  I can either picture buying something
> "new" only to find it's been used, or the manufacturers getting lots of
> units back for refurb and thus raising our prices along the way.  Anyone
> know the scoop?
> 
> Terry
> 


From dmc@silcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:45 EST 1997
Article: 184091 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan McCammon <dmc@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:05:30 -0800
Organization: A client of: Silicon Beach - Business Internet Services
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Chuck Frank wrote:
> 
> Can't speak for the Bosch, but I have the Porter Cable and I am very happy
> with it. Power, tool quality, etc. are excellent. The only "problem" is
> Porter Cable's use of two wrenches to change a bit. A bit cumbersum, but
> otherwise o.k.
> 
> Dory Joe <doryjoe@aol.com> wrote in article
> <19970213205900.PAA05481@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> > I am going to buy either the Porter Cable or Bosch D handle 1 1/2 HP
> > router.  I already have a routher that stays in router table, so the D
> > Handle will stay put together for hand use.  Any suggestions as to which
> > is the best, most comfortable, etc. to use.  Thanks
> >


	I've got boththe PC691 and Bosch 1606A.

  The Bosch came with a "self-destructing collet" rather than the
advertised "self-extracting collet".  In fairness to Skil-Bosch, I will
say that they did send me a new collet that works.  The guy I talked to
was helpful and stated they've been having some problems with a
"build-up of tolerances" during the machining.

	I haven't had trouble with the new collet...yet.  The wrenches are of
differing sizes.  That is a drag.

	Get the PC, it's a better router.


From olek@opct.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:46 EST 1997
Article: 184092 of rec.woodworking
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From: olek <olek@opct.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:19:35 -0800
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> > Don't you wonder where all these reconditioned tools from Dewalt are
> > coming from?

I called a local Black and Decker repair center thinking of getting a 
refurbished biscuit joiner. They refereed me to Harbor Fright.  With the 
amount of catalogs Harbor Fright sends, theirs  got to be....  

As the story goes, with all this horse sh.. , got be a pony in here 
somewhere.


From cavalier@iaonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:47 EST 1997
Article: 184093 of rec.woodworking
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From: cavalier@iaonline.com (Cavalier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: 13 Feb 1997 21:52:14 GMT
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I recently picked up the 8" Delta benchtop bandsaw, and have only one problem 
with it: the blade runs right on the forward edge of the wheels, so when 
backing out of a cut I often drag the blade forward just enough to pull it off 
the wheels. 

I've tried guiding the blade to run more in the middle of the wheels, but it 
immediately drifts back to the edge.  I've also tried rounding off the back of 
the blade to reduce the resistance against the stock, but that did little if 
any good.

Seems like awhile back I had heard about shimming the wheels to bring them 
forward, but couldn't find anything in the search engine.  Is this feasible, or 
would that only serve to bring the blade forward with the wheels, effectively 
changing nothing?



From perkins@bbs.freequote.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:48 EST 1997
Article: 184094 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:51:18 -0600
From: perkins@bbs.freequote.com
Subject: Re: UPS delivery policy
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <01bc19e8$95b4ea60$938748a6@internet.usinet.douten>,
  "David Outen" <**douten**@ibm.net> wrote:
>
> When you are ordering and having it shipped via UPS be sure to tell the
> company to make it signature required but keep in mind there is an
> additional charge for this.
>                                                  Dave
> --
> **if replying by e-mail remove asterisks from address**

Spend $2 more and send Fed Ex. UPS is horrible.  I have had numerous
problems with their service.  I have very, very rarely had a problem with
Fed Ex.  I am not a Fed Ex employee or shareholder.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From schaper@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:49 EST 1997
Article: 184095 of rec.woodworking
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From: schaper@ix.netcom.com(John F Schaper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ripping dowels?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 03:51:52 GMT
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In <5dsl86$kir@thor.pla-net.net> Ed Ladendorf <eladendo> writes: 
>
>Hi Gang
>
>Can I *safely* rip a 4 foot long, 3/4 inch dowel on a table saw? How
do I 
>do it without getting hurt?
>
>Thanks
>Ed
>
I used to try to rip fir strips on my radial arm saw. Fortunately it
was in the basement and I had concrete walls. I suited up and with
goggles etc, tried to rip narrow pieces on my table saw. Later I found
out that the lumber yard had a safty rule about how narrow of a piece
of wood they would rip. It helped me realize that there are
limitations. 
Buying screen moulding may be your best bet. 
John
 


From mckinley@canuck.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:50 EST 1997
Article: 184096 of rec.woodworking
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From: mckinley@canuck.com (Steven McKinley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: 14 Feb 1997 03:31:23 GMT
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In message <19970209083100.DAA02237@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
paparonjo@aol.com9 Feb 1997 08:31:09 GMT writes:
:>...Their attention to customer satisfaction has been
:>outstanding.  At about the same time my order arrives they call to see if
:>everything is Okay!...  :>Ron

I just received there Rabbet Master bit from Tool Trends ltd. (the Canadian
Distributor of CMT tools). Just used it last night and was very impressed with
it.

What I wasn't impressed with was the CMT brass router template guide kit I
also purchased at the same time. When I opened the box the guides were
tarnished and there were still fileings amongst the threads of the guides.
When I phoned Tool Trends they were very apologetic and said that they had
just discovered this themselves. They explained that CMT had just started
making there own template guides and had used the wrong coolent when machining
the brass, thus the tarnishing. Okay, mistakes happen, but what about all the
fileings on the guide threads. That is just poor workmanship! Tool Trends then
explained that they were sending there stock back to CMT for replacement &
would refund my money. 

I phoned CMT to see if they had any of the "corrected" guides available ( I
needed them for a project and was prepared to pay the greater amount in
exchange, duty and postage). Well customer service may be great in the States,
but it indifferent to Canadian Customers. They were not apologetic (sp?) in
the least. They also told me they did not a deal directly with Canadian
customers and from their tone would not have even if the better guides had
been available yet.

So, good router bits? Yes! I would consider buying more and also consider
trying their saw blades. Customer service? Only for those deemed worthy! Of
course if I'd still consider buying there product I guess they don't have a
reason to give me better customer service directly.




From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:51 EST 1997
Article: 184097 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:57:47 -0800
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Jerome R Yezierski wrote:
> 
> Bill Pounds wrote:
> 
> >  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch is not really one inch, it's 3/4 inch.
> 
>    Sorry Mr Pounds 4/4 means 1 inch and 1/8. Yes it means rough
> lumber.If its not you have just been ripped off by the seller.
> 
>     When I was a newbie I asked about why rough luber was sold that way
> and I was told that the tree is cut while it is still green.So they cut
> it leaving that extra amount so that when it is dried it will be close
> to a "heavy inch".Than once its milled(finished two sides)it will be
> 3/4inch. A good lumber mill will plane it a 1/16 larger so when you
> finish sanding or glueing up and running thru a thickness planer again
> it will be close to 3/4inch.
> 
>     Thats a new one for me having lumber sold in metric in a place that
> is /was so close to dear old England.
>    It doesn't have anything to do with giving a job to Old England by
> forcing folks to settle in Austriala does it:-)
> 
>  Great woodworking folks.
> Jerome

Nah, I don't think so. Four quarters means four quarters of an inch. I
learned in my advance calculus class that four quarters equals one. Of
course in lumber milling this is just a reference, and usually fresh
milled stock will be more than one inch. Maybe 1-1/8, maybe 1-1/16,
maybe even 1.010 inch. But the method is based on one inch nominally,
and nothing in my post implied that it would be exactly anything.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From schaper@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:52 EST 1997
Article: 184098 of rec.woodworking
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From: schaper@ix.netcom.com(John F Schaper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Question on Bench grinder & burning.
Date: 14 Feb 1997 04:03:42 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <19970212195401.OAA04797@ladder01.news.aol.com> hackwood@aol.com
(Hackwood) writes: 
>
>I have a 8" bench grinder with a 8"x1" pink Norton stone (fine). The
>grinder runs at 1725 rpm. I set my plane irons on the Veratis jig and
do a
>quick light pass then dunk the iron into ice water with each and every
>pass. The edges still turn blue. The stone has been trued with a
diamond
>point.
>
>Is there any way I can slow the grinder down like you can with those
>attachments you add onto routers?  I'd like to run the grinder a lot
>slower to avoid the burning.  TIA.
>
>Weasel (tm)
>
>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
>
There is a device that can be used to slow equipment down by reducing
voltage. It's called a VariAC. I've seen them for sale used several
times at reasonable prices. It is a box about the size 4"x4"x4" and has
a cord with plug. The box has a dial for setting variable voltage and a
female socket to plug you equipment cord into.
I bought one that would handle a 15 amp buffer all day. Also note that
paint buffing is done best at 1500 rpm or less to avoid heat buildup,
the slower the better. 


From stevek@aracnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:53 EST 1997
Article: 184099 of rec.woodworking
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From: stevek@aracnet.com (Steve Knight)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 04:11:00 GMT
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"/\\/\\arshall \\/\\/atts" <watts@inlink.com> wrote:

>I own a home in St. Louis that has some railroad tie walls in
>the back of it.  My real estate agent said they were the good
>ones, real ones, not some of the new ones that don't last.
>My question is, I heard they use to soke them in creosote.
>I've also heard you can't get it anymore because of health or
>enviromental reasons.  What can I use to maintain these things?
>The creosote made them look black tar like, which I would like
>to maintain if possible.
>

Spray Paint? railroad ties are a poor item for ground contact. hell a
poor item no matter what. They Were not meant for ground contact.

Doggie~ on Irc



From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:53 EST 1997
Article: 184100 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:30:20 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Sag09 wrote:
One would think someone
> could have picked a phone and called me instead of leaving me hanging.I
> don't
> argue with the praise of there products, but that doesn't do me alot of
> good
> if they can't get it to me.


Well, my bits arrived today, finally, sixteen days after I ordered them.
And nice bright-orange bits they are, too. :)

But another prioblem with the CMT bits. Well, not the bits actually, but
the packing. 

CMT used to have a shipping problem where the bit-holder, a small
plastic collar in the bit-case base, would fall out of the base in
shipment. It never jurt the bit, but they deceided to fix it by putting
a piece of packing tape over the base to hold the coller in. Only the
tape gets on the shank of the bit. It's a nightmare to get it out of the
base now and when it comes out, it has tape-gunk on it. Wish they'ld
come up with a better packaging fix than this tape. 

Stan


From mpayne@gte.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:54 EST 1997
Article: 184101 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Payne <mpayne@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting Tenons
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 23:32:35 -0500
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What is the best way to cut tenons???? 
Is the tenon jigs for a table saw worth having??? Do they work. You know
how salesmen are. Everything works great in there " sales make me money
mind" thanks for your help


From joeyb@pro-ns.net Sat Feb 15 11:49:55 EST 1997
Article: 184102 of rec.woodworking
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From: joeyb@pro-ns.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Sander?  WAS: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander???
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:42:02 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:29:32 -0600, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
wrote:

>I posted an article about what people thought about the Delta benchtop
>sander and the feedback I got was that it's easier to stall making it
>not real good for large scale use.  One suggestion for saving $$ on a
>larger one was to look at Grizzly.  Grizzly still has a presidents
>special on their 6x48/9" disc sander.  It is on a stand and has 3/4 Hp. 
>PRice is $169 and for me $50 shipping.  
>
>Anyone have experience with this sander??
>Thanks
>DAmian
>
I had the Delta benchtop, and then went to the Grizzly.  I feel the
Delta was of better quality; the Grizzly is a fairly crude machine.
The photos don't tell the whole story.  But for $169 it is a very good
value.  It certainly is more capable than any  benchtop.

Dave Fish


From thhtoyshop@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:49:56 EST 1997
Article: 184103 of rec.woodworking
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From: thhtoyshop@aol.com (THHToyShop)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Are high-end toys and games your product?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 04:47:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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The Handmade, Homemade Catalog (tm) is now in development of our newest
specialty catalog, "The Handmade, Homemade Toy Shop".  We feature
handmade toys, games, and recreational items made by individual artisans. 
The catalog is "judged" for free sponsorship of items.  We market the
catalogs nationwide, customers send the orders to T.H.H.C., and we forward
necessary money collected and specified orders/addresses to artisans once
weekly.  If your high quality toy/game item is selected for our print and
cyber catalog in the free sponsorship program, you pay no advertising
space costs.  "Non-toy" items may be placed in the catalog(s) at our
reduced rates that make it affordable for small businesses to be a part of
the national mail order system.  Our catalog was in the top 8% of catalogs
ordered out of  113 catalogs (including Neimen Marcus, Lands End,
Victoria's Secret) when we were in the Catalog Showcase in Country Living.
If you have a "toy-type" item you would like to submit, email Karen Hill
at
THHToyShop@aol.com to receive a Craft Review Invitation.  Items that are
eligible to be judged for free sponsorship (toy type items) are judged on
1) Quality
2) SAFETY  3)Durability  4)Appeal    Deadline to submit toys or regular
rate items is April 28, 1997.  The process takes 3-5 weeks to complete, so
we urge early action from artisans.  Early submission is important also
due to category limits.  
E-MAIL Karen Hill        THHToyShop@aol.com    for your Craft Review
Invitation and information today.


Karen D. Hill
The Handmade, Homemade Catalog (tm)
  presents:              "The Handmade, Homemade Toy Shop" Catalog (tm)
                                                   due out June 1997
Print and now, " Cyber Catalog": "America's Craft Show on Paper!" (tm) 
Since
1993            (c)1993 All Rights Reserved


Karen D. Hill
The Handmade, Homemade Catalog (tm)
  presents:              "The Handmade, Homemade Toy Shop" Catalog (tm)
                                                   due out June 1997
Print and now, " Cyber Catalog": "America's Craft Show on Paper!" (tm)  Since 1993            (c)1993 All Rights Reserved


From Doug_Byer@mindlink.bc.ca Sat Feb 15 11:49:57 EST 1997
Article: 184104 of rec.woodworking
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From: Doug_Byer@mindlink.bc.ca (Doug Byer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: how to use sawdust
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 20:49:54
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place a handfull on a piece of cheap tissue paper, wrap into a ball and tie 
the top with thread. Dip into melted wax, set on a tray or wax paper to dry.
makes a good fire starter, especially if you have been using eucalyptus!
A basketful of these using colored tissue  makes a nice Christmas present.  


From robm@bigbird.nrl.navy.mil Sat Feb 15 11:49:58 EST 1997
Article: 184105 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Mentle <robm@bigbird.nrl.navy.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans For A Cribb OR Cradle ??
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:28:19 -0500
Organization: Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <32FF3083.41C6@bigbird.nrl.navy.mil>
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Bradley S. Rubin wrote:
> 
> John wrote:
> >
> > My wife is 6 months pregnant and I can't find any plans for a cribb or
> > cradle anywhere. Can you please help?
> >
> > Many thanks
> >                      John
> 
> Look in Fine Woodworking #100 (May 1993) "Crib Hides Its Hardware"...
> (I wrote it :)  -- Brad

My wife is 7 months pregnant and I am in the process of building a crib
for the baby.  It includes a set of drawers at the head of the crib
which later can be removed and and placed on the floor so a loft size
bed will fit.  It is in the book "Children's Furniture" published by
Sunset.  I had a hard time finding the book, but tracked it down at a
Border's book store.  By the way, one of the layout drawings is not
right.  There is over 96" of board layed out on an 8' sheet of plywood. 
There is room on the other board for the extra.

Good luck,

-- 
Robert E. Mentle
email: robm@bigbird.nrl.navy.mil


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:49:59 EST 1997
Article: 184106 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk (Jeff Gorman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 11:46:43 GMT
Message-ID: <19970213.114643.93@millard.demon.co.uk>
References: <19970209115701.GAA05770@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19970209214001.QAA29012@ladder01.news.aol.com> <5dtsp4$la6@priv-sys04-le0.telusplanet.net>
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Al Cheney wrote:

~          Add "FAQ" to kill file list.

My impression of a kill file is that it only kills files after they
have been received, unless you work the double log-on system of only 
downloading headers, selecting those you want and then re-logging-on
to receive the selected files.

Is this time-consuming routine the usual case, or have I got it wrong?

I'm assuming that one reads and responds to posting off-line.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From johnjordan@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:00 EST 1997
Article: 184107 of rec.woodworking
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From: johnjordan@mindspring.com (John Jordan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathes
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 04:32:15 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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len <len@epix.net> wrote:

>Hi:

>With all due respect to those who feel this kind of inquiry is 
>inappropriate for this newsgroup, I disagree:  I've gotten some valuable 
>tips, and I've occasionally tried to provide same.  So--I would 
>appreciate advice on lathes.  I want to do both outboard and inboard 
>turning, up to ab. 3', and I like solid, well-made machines.  Thanks for 
>your help.

>Len

Easy-Oneway lathe will do that, and you don't have to turn backwards.
E-mail if you want some info.

John Jordan



From johnjordan@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:01 EST 1997
Article: 184108 of rec.woodworking
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From: johnjordan@mindspring.com (John Jordan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Question on Bench grinder & burning.
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 04:32:16 GMT
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schaper@ix.netcom.com(John F Schaper) wrote:

>In <19970212195401.OAA04797@ladder01.news.aol.com> hackwood@aol.com
>(Hackwood) writes: 
>>
>>I have a 8" bench grinder with a 8"x1" pink Norton stone (fine). The
>>grinder runs at 1725 rpm. I set my plane irons on the Veratis jig and
>do a
>>quick light pass then dunk the iron into ice water with each and every
>>pass. The edges still turn blue. The stone has been trued with a
>diamond
>>point.
>>
>>Is there any way I can slow the grinder down like you can with those
>>attachments you add onto routers?  I'd like to run the grinder a lot
>>slower to avoid the burning.  TIA.
>>
>>Weasel (tm)
>>
>>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
>>
>There is a device that can be used to slow equipment down by reducing
>voltage. It's called a VariAC. I've seen them for sale used several
>times at reasonable prices. It is a box about the size 4"x4"x4" and has
>a cord with plug. The box has a dial for setting variable voltage and a
>female socket to plug you equipment cord into.
>I bought one that would handle a 15 amp buffer all day. Also note that
>paint buffing is done best at 1500 rpm or less to avoid heat buildup,
>the slower the better. 

You didn't say what grit the "fine" wheel was, but a 60 grit, "J"
hardness alum oxide wheel will do the trick. Keep it cleanly dreessed
at all times.

The speed controller will only work with universal (brush type)
motors, not on a bench grinder.

John Jordan




From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:03 EST 1997
Article: 184109 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!visi.com!not-for-mail
From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Tenons
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 23:45:13 -0600
Organization: (missing)
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Mark:

I got the Delta Tenoning Jig a couple of years ago. It was machined rather
poorly, I had to file it down to even be able to set it up properly. After
a bit of work though it works extremely well. I made my own
birch/plywood/hardwood unit that did OK but not as well. Not due to
accuracy, but it tended to get chewed up on the outfeed side, and
micro-adjustments were more difficult as it depended on the fence.

Vega makes one, as does Powermatic. I got a Vega PMG and it was so lousy I
returned it the next day, haven't looked their way since.

I use my jig quite often, like it a lot.

> Mark Payne <mpayne@gte.net> wrote in article <3303EAE3.3DB9@gte.net>...
> What is the best way to cut tenons???? 
> Is the tenon jigs for a table saw worth having??? Do they work. You know
> how salesmen are. Everything works great in there " sales make me money
> mind" thanks for your help
> 


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:04 EST 1997
Article: 184110 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!visi.com!not-for-mail
From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 23:50:10 -0600
Organization: (missing)
Lines: 10
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The problem more likely is in the alignment of the wheels, moving them out
further will not alleviate the problem. I'm not sure about your model, I
have the Jet 14", so things could be quite different. However there is
sometimes a tilting adjustment on the top (idler) wheel that helps set
tracking. Also, while I don't have an exact answer to tensioning, some
adjustment there might help.

Traditionally, both wheels should be "co-planer" i.e. be parallel.




From jhparkhill@sihope.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:05 EST 1997
Article: 184111 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: how to use sawdust
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 23:53:55 -0600
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Easier method:

Fill an egg carton with dust, pour melted wax on top. Now you have a dozen
tear-off fire starters, and they really work. One of the many things from
Boy Scout leader camp.




From barss@U.Arizona.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:50:06 EST 1997
Article: 184112 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Barss <barss@U.Arizona.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: Tung Oil on Floors
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:28:06 -0700
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<reply to posting on use of tung or similar oil on floors>


	Pure tung oil is, much like linseed oil, a finish that
offers minimal protection to the surface it's on, and never truly
dries.  Nice looking, but not what I would put on a floor
(nothing wrong with it, it's just you'll be walking right on the
wood).  There's an article reprinted in a book called "Fine
Woodworking on Finishing and Refinishing" that does some
interesting tests of different finishes with respect to wear,
scratch resistance, etc.

	In any event, if you decide to put an oil finish on
anything, diluting the oil with a solvent (turpentine is the
classic combo with linseed oil, and would work with tung too;
mineral spirits will work too) will help the initial coats
penetrate. The only down side is fumes from the solvent, which
can be kinda unpleasant for a number of hours.

	There are a number of varnishes which are called "tung
oil varnish".  An oil varnish is technically a mix of solvent,
oil, and resin.  The resins in the varnish will give you much
more protection than just oil; they will also build a finish on
the wood, which can range from very glossy to matte, depending on
the number of coats and the specific mix of the product.

	You could make up a mix with 1% tung oil and
still call it tung oil varnish, so I'd caution you to go with a
specific recommended name brand from a paint supplier (I'd call
a couple in the Yellow pages to see what they have). I like
Formby's varnish for furniture, but I suspect it's a bit pricey
for a whole floor, and probably not te best stuff for walking on.
If I were doing  a wood floor (I have carpet and tile in my
current house), I'd call a reputable manufacturer, like Pratt &
Lambert, and see what
they would recommend, perhaps in a low gloss finish, as you
sound like you're looking for a non-shiny finish.  Something like
Watco (called a rubbing oil, but it's actually diluted varnish)
might be the ticket for a really no-gloss finish with some
protection to the wood.

	The most common building finish (i.e. it builds up a
film) for floors is polyurethane.  This finish is very hard and
durable, but has one real flaw: it can't bond to itself after 48
hours, so, when the floor starts to wear, you'll have to sand it
right down to bare wood (putting new poly onto old will have it
come off in sheets).  Nonetheless, it's popular stuff. It comes
in low-fume water-based versions, so it's something to consider
if you're solvent sensitive.


	-- Andrew Barss







From carsod@rpi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:07 EST 1997
Article: 184113 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Carson <kitatt@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Flash Rust Everywhere
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 01:12:40 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184113

Michael Gilmore wrote:
> 
> HELP...
> 
> I have a converted garage/shop.
> Recently we had an unfortunate accident.  My wife was doing a marathon
> laundry session Saturday while I was away at work.  Unknown to her, something
> had fallen  and broken the aluminum piping for the dryer that ran through the
> end of my shop.  When I got home and stepped out into the shop, it was like I
> walked into a San Francisco Fog.  Every unpainted steel surface in my shop was
> covered with rust.  Band saw, jointer, saw blades, bits, even my screwdrivers
> were covered in the stuff.  <Fortunately my Ryobi table saw has an aluminum
> table.>  I immediately sprayed all the major surfaces down with WD-40.  I have
> tried since to remove the rust by using steel wool, and even wet/dry sandpaper
> but  I don't seem to be getting anywhere, I haven't tried power sanding yet
> but was afraid of damaging something.  And it's hard to sand drill and router
> bits. If anyone has any suggestions I would be very glad to hear them.  I am
> just sick about this.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> Michael Gilmore
> mgilm@freeway.net
> 
> Petoskey MI
> "where this week 10 below is a warm spell"

Drill bits, saw blades, screwdrivers, and router bits should clean up
rather easily.  Soak 'em in any light oil--even motor oil--overnight. 
Then work on 'em with steel wool or a wire brush (relative fine) on your
grinder, drill, or dremel tool.

For cast iron tables, I usually use an orbital sander--any kind will
do--then apply paste wax with a steel wool pad.

Good luck.

Kit


From Chuck@nospam.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:08 EST 1997
Article: 184114 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck@nospam.com (Chuck Rice)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: G*!Da@! Junk emailers/spammers/parasites etc
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:13:09 -0800
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In article <5dh7iu$lbj@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>, *stev@ix.netcom.com
(Stev) wrote:

> All of us guys using asterisks, 'remove this to replys' etc are
> getting nowhere. Got an offer today from a guy who admitted to
> pulling my address off this group. I was vainly hoping that these
> scum sucking gutter-snipes had some program or something that would
> pull off addresses in batches. But now I see that these guys read 
> thru articles and take the time to get our addresses correct.
> Its getting worse. Im getting an average of 4-5 unwanted offers
> a day whereas just a few months ago I averaged 1-2 a day.
> Anyone know of a way to stop this or lessen this problem short
> of going totally anonmymous(sp?)? Grrrrrrrrrrr.
> 
> stev
> 
> stev@ix.netcom.com


If you want to get rid of them you have to take action every time
you get a message. I have a canned reply that I always use:

> 
> Postmaster, Please explain to this user that it is improper to send 
> unsolicited marketing email to others. If he persists, please cancel 
> his connection.
> 
> Spammer, I always boycott any company or group that does this sort of thing, 
> since I know that if they are not reputable enough to follow the internet 
> rules, then it is likely that their morals are lacking in other places.
> 

I create an email with the above message and a copy of the 
spam (with all headers turned on). I then search out every email 
id I can locate in the spam and put them into the To: field, 
next I duplicate the email ids in the To: field, replacing the
id  with postmaster. Then I send it off. 

It takes a little while, but most of the time the spammer will
get booted from the server he is spamming from, or he will remove 
me from his mailing list. 

For more information, visit:

   <http://www.mcs.com/~jcr/junkemail.html>

Which explains things in more detail. If you respond every time 
like this, the spam will taper off.-Chuck-


From st88d@bayou.uh.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:09 EST 1997
Article: 184115 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David J. McBride" <st88d@bayou.uh.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 21:40:30 -0800
Organization: University of Houston
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> "/\\/\\arshall \\/\\/atts" <watts@inlink.com> wrote:

> >My question is, I heard they use to soke them in creosote.

	I spent the hottest summer of my life working at the creosoting plant
for the S.P. (now U.P.) here in Houston.  Railroad ties are not just
soaked in creosote; they are loaded on trams and a dozen trams or so at
a time are shoved into a big tube that is sealed and then filled with
creosote under pressure for several hours.


> >I've also heard you can't get it anymore because of health or
> >enviromental reasons.  What can I use to maintain these things?
> >The creosote made them look black tar like, which I would like
> >to maintain if possible.

	Why on earth?  Creosote treated wood is definitely NOT recommended for
vegetable gardens as the creosote leeches into the soil.  Since they are
already in place I would just let them weather naturally. 


-- 
YrHmbl&ObdntSrvnt
David J. McBride
Houston, Texas

"Involvement and commitment are much like ham and eggs: the chicken is
involved - the pig is committed."


From scott216@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:10 EST 1997
Article: 184116 of rec.woodworking
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From: scott216@aol.com (Scott216)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: keyless chucks
Date: 14 Feb 1997 07:24:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I beleive drill chucks are pressed onto a tapered shank.  Look at the
chuck you purchased; is the hole tapered?  To remove the chuck, I think
you either need some sort of wedge(s)  made for this purpose, or a wheel
puller.





Scott Goldthwaite
Portland, OR
Go for it, it's later than you think!




From carsod@rpi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:11 EST 1997
Article: 184117 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Carson <kitatt@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:51:37 -0500
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Thanks to

Stev

John Paquay

Mark Popp

Dave Druckerman

For the good advice they passed along.

On my jointer I found out that both set screws were loose, so I
remounted both pulleys (shaft fit of each was nice and tight) from
scratch using a plum bob and then squirting locktite in the holes before
tightening the allen screws down. I tightened down so hard that I broke
the shell on each.  

Next time around I'll retap and maybe go for two screws with nylon
locking inserts.

For my bandsaw, I think I'll retap to start with and maybe even use an
old fashioned sqare headed set screw.  These might cause balance
problems, but they sure tighten down more firmly than the allen screws.

Cheers!

Kit


From xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:12 EST 1997
Article: 184118 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:33:11 -0800
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> >Two years ago, I finally spent the money and bought an HTC overarm guard
> >system, and I've been very happy with it. It's not inconvenient at all.
> >I chose the HTC over the Beismeyer and Delta versions because the HTC
> >has much better visibility of the blade. If you're not familiar with it,
> >the HTC has a large flat acrylic block that is suspended "rigidly" above
> >the blade. A hand crank on top adjusts the height of the guard for the
> >thickness of the wood, and a release knob swings the whole thing out of
> >the way to change blades or use a sliding fixture. It's well designed
> >and sturdy.
> 
> Does anyone know if the HTC overhead TS guard is OSHA-approved?
> Somewhere (perhaps this ng?) I heard that OSHA requires a guard to
> float on the workpiece, but haven't gotten around to researching it
> myself. dcr

Yes, the HTC guard is OSHA approved. It comes with a manual suitable for
teaching schoolchildren (literally, as in high school shops!). 

The HTC guard has anti-kickback pawls that attach to the acrylic block
at the back end. The guard is supposed to be adjusted to just barely
touch the wood; that's why it has the nice crank mechanism to easily
adjust the height. 

I didn't install the pawls because I have a pair of the Leichtung
anti-kickback wheel arms mounted to my fence. They work better than
anything else I've tried.

Several of you have asked where to get the HTC guard. I got mine at Pro
Tool Supply, which is a major tool dealer here in the San Fernando
Valley, but I'm sure it must be available through the major mail order
places like Tool Crib, Woodworker's supply, etc. HTC is the same (US)
company that makes all those cool rolling bases for woodworking machines
that are available everywhere. If they don't list the guard, call 'em
and ask about it. Everything I've bought from HTC has been strong and
well made (and heavy!).

I personally tried both the Beisemeyer and Delta overarm guards on
friend's saws, and they both work very well. I just found the visibility
to be much better on the HTC design, and I like the solid mounting
better than the floating-hood-on-a-linkage design of the others. 

Bruce Johnson
Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
Burbank, CA


From johng@corp.cirrus.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:13 EST 1997
Article: 184119 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Geldman <johng@corp.cirrus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: Band Saw Selection
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:50:09 -0800
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What do you want to do? 

The grizzly 16" & the general 15" are cast iron monstronsities that will
work well but offer limited resawing capabilities. (I have personal
experience with the grizzly 16").

The delta 14" is a solid performer that can be extended for resawing,
but has limited depth.

Bigger, more expensive saws imply more depth of cut, more resaw, bigger
tables, better fences, better tracking (not always - the grizzly 18"
seems to have a bad reputation).

You have to make a call on what you want to do. When I made my decision,
I went with weight, table size, depth of cut, fence, tracking. I
accepted limits on resawing. (grizzly 16")

Another decision would be the delta 14". It is similar to the jet, but
there are key differences in the blade guide adjustment and placement.

There is on final decision maker: color. I went with green.

Paul Diggins; Former ACS wrote:
> 
(dot dot dot)
> 
>     You probably see where this is going. The Grizzly products are so
> much cheaper that you can get a much larger saw, and from the looks of
> things a better saw for less. So when you are comparing a set of saws,
> wouldn't you tend to look at a grouping of saws like this:
> 
> 14" Delta 28-283
> 14" Jet WBS-14CS
> 16" or 18" Grizzly "whatever model numbers..they only have the 2"
> 
>    This is the decision I am trying to make. If anyone has any kind
> of experience with these saws and can give me a little advice..I would
> greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>    Paul Diggins

 
-------------------------------------------------------
John Geldman             Email: johng@cirrus.com


From brucekiki@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:14 EST 1997
Article: 184120 of rec.woodworking
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From: brucekiki@aol.com (Brucekiki)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting this group
Date: 14 Feb 1997 09:40:54 GMT
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You certaintly would get my vote . It makes good sense and would establish
some  order in all of  the postings. Bruce in Oregon


From rduniway@wolfenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:15 EST 1997
Article: 184121 of rec.woodworking
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From: rduniway@wolfenet.com (R. Duniway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 04:14:05 GMT
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In article <Pine.LNX.3.91.970210163241.6155P-100000-100000@newton.pconline.com>, The Lorax <lorax@pconline.com> says:
>
>On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, Alan Murphy wrote:
>
>> You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
>> can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
>> .95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 
>
>     You are of course completely correct here, but as with most
>everything in our society there is a political side to it.  In most areas
>building codes will specify a maximum number of outlets you can have wired
>to a single 15 or 20 amp breaker.  If you have more than the prescribed
>number you can be cited that your wiring is in violation and a potential
>fire code.  This is utterly bogus but can lead to hundreds of dollars in
>fines and/or a court battle if you don't follow their rules to the letter. 

Are you sure about this assertion?  My copy of the UEC chapter on 
calculating circuit load says there is no prescribed limit on the number 
of outlets which can be wired to a single circuit, with the exception of
outlets dedicated to particular purposes such as refrigerators.  Since 
most local building codes now follow one of the model codes, I don't see
why such a limit would apply.  Also, most building departments don't 
impose fines for violations, they just make you tear out the offending
items and replace them with conforming items.  In the case of wired
in outlets that would hardly amount to hundreds of dollars.  Building 
inspectors are generally reasonable people, believe it or not.

Bob Duniway	Dr. Bob's Home Rehab  rduniway@u.washington.edu


From richard.beebe@yale.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:16 EST 1997
Article: 184122 of rec.woodworking
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From: beebe@biomed.med.yale.edu@biomed.med.yale.edu    (Rick Beebe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 14 Feb 1997 06:10:52 GMT
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In <332273ba.135693300@news.aracnet.com>, stevek@aracnet.com (Steve Knight) writes:
>Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com> wrote:
>
> (who are serious hobyists) here have every single one of 
>>them.  *I* don't, but I bet there are at least three well know names here 
>>that have all of these tools.  (and there's at least one of us who thinks
>>that the only tools that should be plugged into the wall are a bandsaw and 
>>a Skill 77 circular saw... ;^> )
>>
>There is the resaw bandsaw the 5 or so biscuit jointers 40.00 glue
>applicator. 450.00 edge banding tool. Several planers. statinary
>Buiscut jointer and I am sure there are a few other things I am
>missing. Metal detector lots of old pine.

Watched over time, I find NYWS useful as a gauge of just which tools are 
actually useful. He has had truckloads of tools over the years, but which 
ones is he still using? Norm builds a hellava lot more furniture than I do 
in a year. 13 episodes of NYWS and he builds at least two of each project. 
The project books indicate that he often builds a third one for still 
photography.  So he's building at least 26 pieces of furniture a year
(subtract the occasional shed or gazebo) plus doing 26 episodes of This Old
House.  I gotta figure the guy is busy and he wants, needs, and is going to
use the best and fastest tools he can get.  Something thats cool and flashy
but doesn't save time or increase accuracy is going to get dumped.

Biscuit jointers:  he started out with a Porter-Cable (a version which I've
NEVER seen anywhere else) then he went through a couple of other brands but
has used the Elu for the past 3 or 4 seasons.  Now he's got this cordless
one.  Let's see if it stays around.  He had a Makita chop saw for the first
couple of years but that PC Laser-lok has stayed around for a long time.  I
don't think it's because it's a PC, I think it's because it does the job.

The $450.00 edge banding tool I saw exactly once. Since then I've seen him 
glue hardwood edge strips on several projects. That tells me I don't need 
one. Same with the stationary biscuit jointer.

He used a combination planer/jointer on a couple of shows but quickly 
went back to dedicated tools. Heck he didn't even keep the workbench that 
he built in the first season for more than two shows.

I've seen bunches of glue applicators, but not many of them have lasted. 
Several of the ones he's kept around I've gone out and bought and I haven't
been unhappy yet.

I noticed on the first show of this season that he was using one of those
replacement miter gauges that can only be set to 90 or 45 (but are supposed
to be extremely accurate at those settings).  He wasn't using it on the
show I saw last night though.  A gimmick? I want to see if it returns.

Having said that (and relating this back to the original thread) I do think
that they went overboard a bit in the 'season of recycled pine.' The 
projects were nice, but they made too big a deal out of the pine and stock 
preparation. He stepped too far away from the 'hey you can do this too' 
with that resaw and the 15 (20?) inch planer. That side of the shop has 
trekked into the realm of commercial shops.

Alternatively, the could move away from "let's watch Norm build something" 
to a much more 'showbiz' type show. Ie, have Norm joint two boards by hand 
while a crew of people in the back room run the rest of the stock through 
the jointer. Yeah, but then we'll have people complaining that they can't 
possibly afford that new $300 Lie Neilson jack plane...

   _____________________________________________________________________

     Rick Beebe                                           (203) 785-4566
     Data Network Operations
     Biomedical Computing Unit                    
     Yale University School of Medicine            
     333 Cedar Street, New Haven, CT 06510	  richard.beebe@yale.edu
    _____________________________________________________________________




From rduniway@wolfenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:17 EST 1997
Article: 184123 of rec.woodworking
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From: rduniway@wolfenet.com (R. Duniway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench top within .001"????
Date: 14 Feb 1997 04:59:07 GMT
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Thanks for the hilarious post.  Perhaps you could get a large piece of 
plate glass (or better yet a granite reference top), glue some wet/dry
sandpaper to it, and lap you bench top on that?  Oh, never mind, I see
that it would leave grit behind.  Time to get out that extra long jointer 
plane I guess.

Bob Duniway

In article <19970212133701.IAA19373@ladder01.news.aol.com>, hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood) says:
>
>In the latest AMERICAN WOODWORKER (April 97), Ian J. Kirby describes his
>Better Workbench and states that a good bench "has to be flat to within
>.0.01 inch--and .0.001 is not impossible for a sharp jointer plane".
>
>Sheesh. I can't even buy a good machinist's square that has that degree of
>precision across it's entire length and he can build a 55"x25" hardwood
>benchtop that is that precise?  I'm feeling terribly inadequate. I guess I
>have benchtop envy, or I'm just simply benchtop challenged. I'd be
>delighted if my 8'x3' maple workbench top is .1" flat.  How did he
>possibly measure it?
>
>He stated that you should never have a shop belt sand the top. On this
>point, I'm going to ignore that advice. He states that it leaves grit
>behind but on the other hand, I don't forsee myself having to resurface
>the top every year. I'm making a butcher block top and I don't anticipate
>much movement (am I naive?)
>
>Please, if you know the secrets of the universe, could you please reveal
>them to me? 
>
>Weasel (tm)
>
>p.s. The following has nothing to do with woodworking, but I thought it
>was hilarious and pass it on:
>--------------------------------------------------------
>
>Once upon a time there lived a man who had a maddening passion for beans.
>He loved them, but they always had a very embarassing and somewhat lively
>reaction on him. Then one day he met a girl & fell in love. When it was
>apparent that they would marry, he thought to himself, "she is such a
>sweet & gentle girl, she will never go for this kind of carrying on." So
>he made the supreme sacrifice...and gave up beans. They were married
>shortly thereafter.
>
>Some months later his car broke down on the way home from work and,since
>they lived in the country, he called his wife & told her that he would be
>late as he had to walk home. On his way he passed a small cafe and the
>odor of freshly baked beans was overwhelming. Since he still had several
>miles to walk he figured that he would work off any ill effects before he
>got home so he stopped at the cafe.
>
>Before leaving he had eaten three large orders of baked beans. All the way
>home he "putt-putted" and, after arriving, felt reasonably safe that he
>had "putt-putted" his last. He noted his wife seemed  somewhat agitated
>and excited to see him and exclaimed delightedly, "Darling, I have the
>most wonderful suprise for dinner tonight." Then she blindfolded him and
>led him to his chair at the head of the dining table. He seated himself
>and, just as she was ready to remove the blindfold, the telephone rang.
>She made him vow not to touch the blindfold until she returned, then she
>went to answer the phone. Seizing the opportunity, he shifted his weight
>to one leg and let go! It was not only loud, but as ripe as rotten eggs.
>He took the napkin from his lap & vigorously fanned the air about him.
>Things had just returned to normal when he felt another urge coming on
>him, so he shifted his weight to the other leg and let go again. This was
>a true prize-winner. While keeping his ear on the conversation in the
>hall, he went on like this for ten minutes until he knew the phone
>farewell  indicated the end of his freedom.
>
>He placed his napkin on his lap and folded his hands on top of it and,
>smiling contentedly to himself, he was the very picture of innocence when
>his wife returned, apologizing for taking so long. She asked if he had
>peeked and he, of course, assured her he had not. At this point she
>removed his blindfold andthere was his surprise . . .
>
>Twelve dinner guests seated around the table for a "Happy Birthday Party"
>for him.


From Pittoes@tyenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:18 EST 1997
Article: 184124 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lulubelle <Pittoes@tyenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: building plans for a dog house
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 05:08:10 -0500
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Hello out there,
Does anyone have plans to build a good, fully insulated dog house for my
new mutt?  He loves to be outside, but the winters here in Ontario,
Canada are brutal.  I know nothing about carpentry, and my husband can't
build anything without very specific instructions.  I appreciate any
help offered.  
Lulubelle


From alyn@emphasys.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:50:19 EST 1997
Article: 184126 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Alyn W. Ashworth" <alyn@emphasys.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:33:33 +0000
Organization: Emphasys Computer Consultants Ltd.
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Hippo Oil, as any fule no, is an anagram of

                        Oo - Philip

....which is of course what H.M. the Queen says when the Duke of
Edinburgh rubs her down with it.
-- 
Alyn W. Ashworth
Liverpool, England


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:20 EST 1997
Article: 184127 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans
Message-ID: <8D1F569.023301286D.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 23:05:00 -0600
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I went to Service Merchandise store today and while lookin at Jewelry
Boxes i got all kinds of ideas and plans just from viewing stuff in the
store...My point is that if you cant be creative then whats the use?
Plans by the Bookload are available from public libraries-and ill bet
even on the net there are plans someplace.But i say who needs em? After
all if you cant build sumpin outta yer own head then yer jest an
ASSEMBLER and not a true dyed in the wool,authentic,100%genuine Wood
worker of the highest order! hehe...Why bother copycatting other
woodworkers blazed trails when you can blaze a few of yer own? To become
a trailblazer try learning the few simple rules like Joinery etc so that
whatever you create wont fall apart due to lack of basic fundamentals..
Try capitalizing on Wall furniture and Corner furniture since most homes
are outta space and there is always room in a corner or up on a wall..
But seriously if ya need plans there are thousands of em at the library
just languishing until someone comes along and liberates them.
                                          Lee Ward

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From chrisr@inreach.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:21 EST 1997
Article: 184128 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33034A69.4418@inreach.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:08:00 -0800
From: Christopher Raymond <chrisr@inreach.com>
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Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184128

I bought my Delta contractor's saw in 1986, and it does exactly the same
thing.

Chris


From chrisr@inreach.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:22 EST 1997
Article: 184129 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33034896.5A5C@inreach.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:00:11 -0800
From: Christopher Raymond <chrisr@inreach.com>
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Subject: Just finished a large maple workbench
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184129

I've just completed a large (13-1/2 foot x 35 inch x 3-1/2 inch thick
maple top on a Douglas fir base) workbench. The top consists of 3-1/2
inch x 1-3/4 inch x various length maple boards glued face-to-face and
had to solve several problems along the way (built many jigs):

1. How to rip straight boards that didn't have straight edges to start
with (and not melt my 1-1/2 hp tablesaw motor!);

2. How to avoid end gaps on 3-1/2 inch wide boards butted together (in
case of imperfectly square cuts or imperfectly straight boards);

3. How to glue up such a large assembly without the glue drying, or all
dripping out before I get the clamps in place;

4. How to clamp a 13 foot x 3-1/2 inch thick tabletop;

5. How to ensure the front of the bench is as straight as possible;

6. How to mount the tabletop to the base, allowing for wood movement;

7. How to make such a large top as flat and level as possible;

8. How to get all eight legs bearing equally on a slightly uneven garage
floor

I'm new at this (woodworking and newsgroups!) but would be happy to
share anything I've learned/discovered in the process.

By the way, I want to build an airplane someday - thus the huge size of
the bench.

Chris


From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:50:23 EST 1997
Article: 184130 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Best price on Baltic Birch in Northeast US?
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:00:01 -0500
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    I'm looking for a good place to buy, or order, Baltic Birch plywood
in or around Pittsburgh, PA.  There are a few places locally that sell
it only in 4'x2' sheets, at quite premium prices, and they carry very
little stock.  I'd like to find a place that carries at least 4'x4'
sheets, in 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" (or 6, 13 and 19mm) sizes.  It should be
reasonably close to Pittsburgh, or the travel time or shipping will
overwhelm any savings I might see.  A place that offerred veneered ply
as well would be nice, but not necessary.

    Thanks much.

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From jschlee@tir.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:24 EST 1997
Article: 184131 of rec.woodworking
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From: "jschlee@tir.com" <jschlee@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Trendlines Anti-kickback Bits
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 07:20:28 -0500
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Just recieved volume 99 (or so it seems) of Trndlines' catalog. The now
offer anti-kickback router bits (painted a pretty yellow?). They're
about half the price of CMT & Freud, but am wondering if they're half
the quality also. Has anyone bought any & what are your opinions...?

Jim


From booter@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:26 EST 1997
Article: 184132 of rec.woodworking
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From: booter@ix.netcom.com(Brian)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Acrafence ultra or Jointech ?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 12:24:44 GMT
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I need to do some precision joints and I would like to know the
differences between these two systems and which one is easiest to use?


Thanks,

Brian


From carsod@rpi.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:26 EST 1997
Article: 184133 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Carson <kitatt@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:51:46 -0500
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Michael Peele wrote:
> 
 
>Lumber is generally available in       4/4,   5/4,    8/4,   12/4
and   16/4
>    which is rough dim of                1", 1 1/4",    2",     3"  and     4"
>       skip planed dim of              7/8", 1 1/8", 1 7/8", 2 7/8" and 3 7/8"
> finished planed(milled) dim of 3/4"(13/16),     1", 1 3/4", 2 3/4" and 3 3/4"
> 
> The above list is for planks which is what most lumber dealers will 

For much of my experience, going back to  WWII, US lumber terminology
was based on size before dressing.  You could expect a one inch, planed,
board to measure  3/4" in thickness, a two inch board, 1 3/4 ".  Over
time this became complicated by changed dimensions of nominal
construction lumber. Instead of 1 3/4" a 2 x 4 becomes 1 1/2".  Hence
the /4 system attempts to provide a step backward to "real"
measurement.  

The first time I came across this, not being a professional, was 10 or
so years ago when I built a deck and found out the new standard for
treated decking was 5/4 boards--which actually measured 1".

Like all other systems, once you are familiar with it its complexity
doesn't matter.  Consider how difficult the old English monetary system
was for non-Brits--based as it was on a 12 scale rather than a decimal
scale. But for the natives, it was a no sweat proposition.

So it is with any system.  All of us have been taught to use the metric
system in the sciences and there is no doubt that it is most effective
in that environment.  On the roads and in the workshops or kitchens, the
English system is no less efficient.  Thank goodness, however,  we no
longer have to deal with pecks and perches very much.

But to say that using kilometers is more efficient than English statute
miles is absurd. So for that matter would be replacing the nautical mile
(used for both air and sea navigation) with the metric mile.  The same
is true with bolt and screw sizes.  The only advantage is to the
manufacturer who takes the time to conform his hardware to the user's
system.  Knowledge of a few conversions:  2.54 cm = 1 inch;
a quart of water weighs a pound; 4 qts to the gallon; a liter = 3.75
gallons; a cubic foot of water (sea) = 64 lbs.  You are in business.As a
matter of fact the Fahrenheit temp scale is still the most descriptive
for human existence in this world--because it was designed to do just
that.  In the temperate climates temps seldom exceed 100 or 0 degrees. 
The comfort zone lies in the mid zone after 50.

Celsius, or Baume scales to name a couple of others do not contain such
handy metaphorical correlations.

Talk about big brotherism.  Why should should US citizens (nearly 300
million strong change to make you Canucks and Aussies happy <grin>?

Cheers!

Kit Carson

When in Australia I don't mind using the metric system


From whylandj@kodak.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:27 EST 1997
Article: 184134 of rec.woodworking
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From: whylandj@kodak.com (whylandj@kodak.com)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Question for Jet JWTS-10JF Owners
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 12:44:23 GMT
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I just purchased the JWTS-10JF.  Very nice saw especially considering the 
price (around $540-$20 rebate).  After finding a good location for it in my 
shop, I ran a 220V source and rewired the motor according to the instructions. 
 To my surprise, upon turning the saw on there was a noticeable jerk which was 
not (entirely) present when operating at 120V.  Everyone I've talked to, 
including Jet technical assistance, claimed the saw should run smoother on 220 
but that's not what I noticed.  The amount of jerk is dependent on where the 
saw stops (i.e. armature position).  Occasionally the start-up is very smooth. 
 Jet claims they've heard similar complaints but had no mention of a fix at 
hand.

I need to know if others have experienced a similar problem or am I seeing a 
defective motor here?

Thx,
Jeff Whyland
Rochester, NY

Opinions are mine and mine alone.




From GVANMAN@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:28 EST 1997
Article: 184135 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Harris" <GVANMAN@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: 14 Feb 1997 13:11:25 GMT
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Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<33042347.19DC@smtp.ix.netcom.com>...
> > >Two years ago, I finally spent the money and bought an HTC overarm
guard
> > >system, and I've been very happy with it. It's not inconvenient at
all.
> > >I chose the HTC over the Beismeyer and Delta versions because the HTC
> > >has much better visibility of the blade. 
snip
> > 
> > Does anyone know if the HTC overhead TS guard is OSHA-approved?
snip
> 
> Yes, the HTC guard is OSHA approved
snip
> 
> The HTC guard has anti-kickback pawls that attach to the acrylic block
snip
> 
> Several of you have asked where to get the HTC guard. 
snip
> 
> I personally tried both the Beisemeyer and Delta overarm guards on
> friend's saws, and they both work very well. I just found the visibility
> to be much better on the HTC design, and I like the solid mounting
> better than the floating-hood-on-a-linkage design of the others.
snip
You can buy this directly from HTC.
Customer service number is 1 - 800 - 624 - 2027
They have their own catalog full of all kinds of mobile bases and
accessories.
Cheers,
          Dave Harris
p.s. I have no connection with HTC - just a satisfied customer !


From opencon@primenet.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:29 EST 1997
Article: 184136 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: 14 Feb 1997 05:51:01 -0700
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Not sure where you could find the right chuck , but if you can get it in 1 
1/2" then have a bushing turned by a machinist from 1 1/2 to 1 1/8. I'd wager 
it wouldn't cost you that much, its such a small part.

Marty
In article <5e0fen$dpv@news2.cais.com>, sumone@nowhere.com wrote:
>After owning it for almost 20 years, I  now have my Oliver
>Patternmaker's lathe operational.  It is a Model E53 and is powered by
>a Watson 1/2 HP, 220 v Direct Current motor.  The motor case is
>stamped "Oliver" so I suppose the windings were done by Watson.  Best
>guess is that it was built sometime between 1895 and 1920, the
>approximate year AC current was introduced to my area of the country,
>though it is possible that it was made for the US Navy to be used
>aboard a ship using DC power.  
>
>I operate it on 220 v AC through a rectifier and control speed by
>means of a rheostat.  The lathe headstock is the motor.  The armature
>shaft is hollow, has a No. 2 Morse taper on the inboard side and a one
>and one-sixteenth, 8 TPI threaded shaft on the outboard end.
>
>The inboard shaft (where the No. 2 MT is located) is also threaded
>with a 1 1/16 x 8 TPI.
>
>I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
>the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
>be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
>etc.
>
>Unless someone can steer me to a source or has an old chuck he will
>sell me, I have to come up with a solution for adapting the 1 1/16 x 8
>TPI shaft to accommodate a chuck.  
>
>Since the shaft is hardened and since one would have to completely
>disassemble the motor to weld up the shaft and recut it to 1 1/4" or
>larger I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions.  Perhaps I could
>have an adapter made to fit 1 1/16 and step up to 1 1/2.  Any
>suggestions will be appreciated.  Even more would be info from anyone
>else owning this lathe and their solution to the odd-sized shaft.
>
>I do not know if my E-mail address will show up on this notice but if
>it does please do not use it as I am having trouble with my mail
>program and will probably not receive any E-mail messages sent. Please
>reply to the rec.woodworking group with a posted notice.  Forgive the
>verbosity but it seemed neccessary to explain the situation.
>
>


From *dgalley@bconnex.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:30 EST 1997
Article: 184137 of rec.woodworking
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From: *dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: 'Workshop' Dust Filter System
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:19:30 GMT
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I am looking into putting in a dust filter/collection system into my
workshop and saw an add in the February Lee Valley Catalog for a
Workshop Dust Filter System for $349.00 (Canadian). Does anyone have
advice/experience on these particular units?

*NOTE: Remove the * at the beginning of my email address for the
actual one.

David



From *dgalley@bconnex.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:31 EST 1997
Article: 184138 of rec.woodworking
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From: *dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:29:29 GMT
Organization: Barrie Connex newsserver
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Mike,
Thank you for the only intelligent post, to-date, on my original
question regarding Hippo-Oil.
To the rest of the people that responded thank you for the quantity.

David Galley
'Tis best to have people think you are a fool than to open your mouth
and remove all doubt.' ---Mark Twain---

On 13 Feb 1997 19:32:31 GMT, Michael Brush <ibsi@flash.net> wrote:

>
>
>Can't believe the level of misinformation in the above responses (although 
>the person that suggested it's used in health spas is closer than he may
>realize).  Hippo oil (--from Hippolyta, queen of the Amazons in Greek 
>mythology) was used by the Greeks for bathing (you know, rub it on and 
>scrape it off). A carpenter noticed that it left a nice finish on the 
>wooden benches used by the bathers (also, unfortunately, on the bathers)
>and the rest is history. 
>
>Mike



From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:31 EST 1997
Article: 184139 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:22:13 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Bruce Johnson wrote:
snip
> I didn't install the pawls because I have a pair of the Leichtung
> anti-kickback wheel arms mounted to my fence. They work better than
> anything else I've tried.
> 
snip
Is/Are these Leichtung whell arms you reference the item that I know as
'Yellow buddies"?


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:32 EST 1997
Article: 184140 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:29:09 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Christopher Raymond wrote:
> 
> I bought my Delta contractor's saw in 1986, and it does exactly the same
> thing.
> 
> Chris
Chris,
In your last post you indicated that you were new to this woodworking
stuff - I wouldn't go so far as to say that if I'd bought my equipment
in 1986 !!  Do you still consider yourself NEW ??
How long do you have to be involved with this until you're no longer NEW
AT IT


From caterpa@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:33 EST 1997
Article: 184141 of rec.woodworking
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From: caterpa@aol.com (CaterPA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table saws-Grizzly vs. Craftsman
Date: 14 Feb 1997 13:40:29 GMT
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     Just a question regarding Grizzly vs. Craftsman.  I currently own a 2
hp Craftsman saw and have had somewhat diappointing results with the
accuracy of the fence, power of the motor etc. I have a friend who is
looking to buy a table saw for very rare use and he wants to buy mine.  I
have considered doing this and getting the Grizzly g1022Z instead but I
have concerns there too.  It's motor is only 1 1/2 hp.  Is that going to
be worse than the 2 hp Craftsman.  Has anyone else owned these saws?  How
do they compare to others in the <$500 range?  Thanks for any help anyone
can give.

Jeff Cater
Cedar Rapids, Ia


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:34 EST 1997
Article: 184142 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:46:00 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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StanR wrote:
> 
> Sag09 wrote:
> snip 
> But another prioblem with the CMT bits. Well, not the bits actually, but
> the packing.
>snip

Stan,
You're SO RIGHT. I got my new CMT bits yesterday ( 10 days after the
order!) and discovered just what you're talking about. I was wondering
what the heck that was all about. Not every one of the packages had that
tape on it so I guess it was just the NEW ONES from production - others
>from  off-the-shelf.
In two cases I had to wrap a towel around the bit and use a pair of
pliers to get the bit out of the packge. Then I was afraid that I would
scratch the shank - so on the other I tore the paper from the bottom of
the package, used a drift punch to drive the bit out of the package - be
sure to catch the bit (or stop short) as you don't want that new bit to
hit the floor.


From doryjoe@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:35 EST 1997
Article: 184143 of rec.woodworking
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From: doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How Flat should my Delta 34-444 table be?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 13:55:53 GMT
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Chuck,

I bought my first CS 3 years ago, got it home and found table had a hollow
on right side of insert.  I called Delta, they said table only had to be
flat to within certain tolerances, I forget the number now.  I called
local warranty station, and paid $45.00 to have a service call rather than
lug the thing to them.  The tech. said table was within tolerance, but he
did not blame me for not being happy and would fudge the number and get
another table.  He did, installed new table, it had a hollow somewhere
else.  

In disgust, I took the saw back to Home Quarters and they gave me credit,
and even credited me $45.00 for service call.  Can you believe that!  Then
I went to every Delta dealer armed with my framing square and checked
tables.  Would you believe I checked four more tables before I found one
flat enough that the square would not rock.  I bought the saw.  HOWEVER, I
have never been able to keep the blade on that saw parallel with miter
gauge slots.  I have adjusted the trunion bolts so many times that my half
inch socket will almost find them under the table unaided by me.  The
service tech has no explanation for this problem either. 

Last week I ruined an expensive jewlery box cutting the lid, and that did
it.  I have a Grizzly cabinet saw on order, the CS is going in the
classifieds as soon as the Grizzly arrives.  I would prefer a Unisaw, but
the Grizzly is less than half the price, I hope I have decided wisely, we
will see. Joe


From Bruce_Taylor@iris.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:36 EST 1997
Article: 184144 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Taylor <Bruce_Taylor@iris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:55:41 -0500
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Daniel Morris DeRight wrote:
>
> Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo
> Oil??? by bob6666@worldnet.att.net
> > John Levin wrote:
> > >
> > > In article <5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com>,
> mikehide@mindspring.com says...
> >
> > >
> > > > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> > > >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the
palms
> > > >[another wood ] of politicians .
> > >
> > > Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from
> squeaking.
> >
> > Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).
>
>     C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight answer!
>
>     Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for fine wood finishing.
It
> is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal
process,
> in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .
>
> ==========================
> Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu
>
> Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
> the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt

No, no, no. Hippo oil was the greasy smear left by the lamps of  St
Augustine
of Hippo, as he toiled away into the night working on his theological
treatises. It is now akin to holy oil and very hard to come by.

By the way, is it food-safe?

                                                      - Bruce

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<HTML><BODY>

<DT><I>Daniel Morris DeRight wrote:<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo<BR>
&gt; Oil??? by bob6666@worldnet.att.net<BR>
&gt; &gt; John Levin wrote:<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt;<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt; In article &lt;5doguj$otm@camel0.mindspring.com&gt;,<BR>
&gt; mikehide@mindspring.com says...<BR>
&gt; &gt;<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt;<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor
&quot;LIPPO&quot; oil<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;which is used in many countries ,including the US to
grease the palms<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;[another wood ] of politicians .<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt;<BR>
&gt; &gt; &gt; Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos
from<BR>
&gt; squeaking.<BR>
&gt; &gt;<BR>
&gt; &gt; Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight
answer!<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for
fine wood finishing.&nbsp; It<BR>
&gt; is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal process,<BR>
&gt; in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; ==========================<BR>
&gt; Dan DeRight&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
sodapop@cmu.edu<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.&nbsp;
It is<BR>
&gt; the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-William Pitt<BR>
&nbsp;</I></DT>

<DT>No, no, no. Hippo oil was the greasy smear left by the lamps of&nbsp;
St Augustine</DT>

<DT>of Hippo, as he toiled away into the night working on his theological
treatises. It is now akin to holy oil and very hard to come by.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>By the way, is it food-safe?</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Bruce</DT>

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From ddrewek@qgraph.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:37 EST 1997
Article: 184145 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Message-ID: <33047368.542D@qgraph.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:15:04 -0600
References: <01bc1957$c5a97ec0$4b3378cf@rharding.airnet.net> <33037CD3.5BD4@scripps.edu> <01bc19e6$34276220$675a45c6@mick-davis>
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T. Davis wrote:
> 
> > > Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc,
> dust
> > > collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit
> that
> > > has good suction and runs quietly.
> 
> The April 97 (already!) issue of Wood has a review of dust collecters.
> 
> T Davis

I thinkI found a mistake in this already.  I am pretty sure the review
says Jet's DC650 has plastic blades and the Peter just confirmed they
are not.  I know my DC1200 is not plastic.  I could be wrong, anyone
confirm?



From jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:38 EST 1997
Article: 184146 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com (John K. Warsaw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:17:29 GMT
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Sometimes simply replacing the set screw helps.  The tip is supposed
to be sharp enough to dig into the shaft and lock the screw, but if
the tip becomes dull, the screw won't lock.  If you compare a new set
screw with one that has a habit of working loose, you will see the
difference.

Yes, this does sound too easy.  That's what  I said when I first heard
it.  But it has worked for me more than once, and if it doesn't solve
the problem you're not out much!
--
PLEASE NOTE: My e-mail address has been disguised to defeat automated spam programs.  For my correct address, change  "fakeaddress" to "netside", but leave off the quotation marks.  Sorry for the inconvenience.


From jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:39 EST 1997
Article: 184147 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com (John K. Warsaw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:17:31 GMT
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I like the Jorgensen series 72 heavyweight bar I-beam clamps for
serious useon larger projects.  I do have some 3/4" pipe clamps which
are threaded on both ends.  I sometimes connect the pipes to make very
long (7-9') clamps for gluing up large case pieces.  Also, on pipe
clamps I can turn the two heads to different angles, which helps in
some uses.  I find the pipe clamps are much more flexible than the
I-beam style, and are more likely to slip when tightened.  I haven't
used the aluminum, but the catalogs say the steel I-beam style is much
heavier duty.


--
PLEASE NOTE: My e-mail address has been disguised to defeat automated spam programs.  For my correct address, change  "fakeaddress" to "netside", but leave off the quotation marks.  Sorry for the inconvenience.


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:40 EST 1997
Article: 184148 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 09:35:13 -0600
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Responding to Daves "dissertation" on measurement systems:

You inadvertently stated a fundamental flaw in your argument. All of us
unfortunately,(Americans) are really not exposed to the metric system. I 
was, as my profession dictated it. To argue that the metric is not more
efficient is silly. Since all units of S.I., whether volume or mass, use 
a common factor of ten with common prefixes, conversions within the 
system, as well as learning the prefixes, is vastly simplified. Kilo,
whether applied to meters or grams is always 1000., etc.
The US conversion, or aversion, in my understanding is primarily a
financial question- Our machine tool conversion cost would be indeed
immense if done in one fell swoop, but if done gradually, could be 
accomplished. To re-inforce my contention, my wife would be non-plussed
if I asked her to buy 30 liters of gasoline!

Roger H.

-- 
Life is too important to take seriously.


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:41 EST 1997
Article: 184149 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Selection
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 09:38:56 -0600
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I,m just about finished with my pre-purchase anguish
on BS selection. I conclude, all other things being equal,( which they 
never are) A Jet with riser blocks is my best cost/value/utility 
consensus.

Roger H.-- 
Life is too important to take seriously.


From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:42 EST 1997
Article: 184150 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Just finished a large maple workbench
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 14:37:32 GMT
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In article <33034896.5A5C@inreach.com>, chrisr@inreach.com wrote:

>By the way, I want to build an airplane someday - thus the huge size of
>the bench.

I think you'll need a bigger bench for that 767. ;D  

Anyhow, that's not so huge - some 18th century cabinetmakers had 16' benches.


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From bilgraham@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:43 EST 1997
Article: 184151 of rec.woodworking
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From: bilgraham@aol.com (Bil Graham)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Furniture Plans
Date: 14 Feb 1997 14:49:43 GMT
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Can anyone let me know of a source for plans for furniture of all sorts.
None of the mags. I get have any ads for plans.


From SciRhet@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:44 EST 1997
Article: 184152 of rec.woodworking
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From: SciRhet@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Refurbishing old bandsaw
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:07:16 -0500
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A friend wants to me an disused bandsaw, probably around 15 years old, 
since he never has gotten around to using it.  He thinks the company 
which made it was out of business [he keeps forgetting to tell me what 
the brand name was, but the words "Chicago, Inc" did appear in one of 
his messages.], and the blades, as best he can measure, should be 55 
inches long and 1/4" wide [there don't seem to be any with the saw].

Any ideas on:
		           -- possible brand name?
		           -- where to get parts?
		           -- quality/usefulness of this machine?
		           -- would it be better to use it as a trade-in somewhere?
Many thanks!

SciRhet, 
able to leap disciplines in a single bound


From rbowles96@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:46 EST 1997
Article: 184153 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robertson Screws
Date: 14 Feb 1997 14:53:19 GMT
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Bondhus makes a ball Robertson screwdriver for driving at an angle, both #1 & #2.  Very handy compared to the straight drive screwdrivers.  If memory serves McFeely carries.


From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:47 EST 1997
Article: 184154 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 14:46:07 GMT
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In article <3303BF9E.1C01@mindspring.com>, kenst@mindspring.com wrote:
{snip}
  PBS would not be
>able to produce the specials such as "Genesis - The Living Conversation"
>without NYWS and its defacto Delta sponsorship.  I'm not criticizing the
>PBS environment - just recognize it for what it is and don't portray it
>as without commercialism.

This is a bit off the group, but, I think you need to be a little more 
objective before dropping the commercial label.  In a related matter, museum's 
and other non-profits have received similar criticism of their programs or 
exhibitions as being "commercially biased" in nature due to a relationship 
with a certain sponsor.  Educational programming often has to rely on the 
private sector (just as certain congressmen insist) for support (after all, 
who wants to pay for education? ;D), and it is difficult if not impossible to 
say "you can't put your label/product" here even though you have handed us a 
chunk of change in sponsorship.  

That said, when Norm starts saying, "Get out your Delta Supergismo, now 
available through your local retailer", I think I'll quit watching.  Until 
then, give the guys a break.



Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From manhart@bio.tamu.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:48 EST 1997
Article: 184155 of rec.woodworking
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From: manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:40:35 -0600
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In article <5e02ee$kld@kelly.iaonline.com>, cavalier@iaonline.com
(Cavalier) wrote:

> I recently picked up the 8" Delta benchtop bandsaw, and have only one problem 
> with it: the blade runs right on the forward edge of the wheels, so when 
> backing out of a cut I often drag the blade forward just enough to pull
it off 
> the wheels. 
> 
SNIP

There is a tilting adjustment on this saw that controls the position of
the blade on the wheels.  Unplug the saw and turn the wheels by hand while
slowly changing the adjustment.  Once it appears to be in the proper
position, give it several more turns to make sure that it is going to stay
in the middle of the wheel.  

Good luck,


From miker%oakhill@sps.mot.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:49 EST 1997
Article: 184156 of rec.woodworking
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From: miker%oakhill@sps.mot.com (Michael Reid )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 14 Feb 1997 14:42:58 GMT
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Ken Stovesand (kenst@mindspring.com) wrote:

: I disagree that using tools on PBS is not advertising just because they
: avoid a certain form of slogan. Do you really think that anyone would be
: swayed to go buy a Unisaw if only they mentioned something like "it's
: great"? Regardless, at the beginning they have a pretty good facsimile
: of a commercial message for insurance, local woodworking stores, Delta,
: etc.  Why don't these shows just go on a commercial station and give up
: this PBS sham?

You're right to say that it is advetising but it's no different than most
shows on PBS. e.g.  Mystery sponsored by the Mobile Corporation or Wall
Street Week sponsored by A.G. Edwards, et. al.

--
Mike Reid (miker@oakhill.sps.mot.com)


From mailermike@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:49 EST 1997
Article: 184157 of rec.woodworking
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From: mailermike@aol.com (Mailermike)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: 14 Feb 1997 15:39:12 GMT
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The solution is simple (although not completely inexpensive.

It is very common for chuck manufacturers to offer their chucks with the
standard thread patterns smae as woodworkers lathes. I would SUSPECT that
the availability of your 1 1/6" thread pattern might be more available in
metalworking circles. 

It is commin to buy a "faceplate" that fits the spindle thread then buy
the chuck that screws onto the faceplate. You're calling it an "adapter".

Even if you couldn't find an off-the-shelf faceplate with your thread
configuration, I would think, I wouldn't think it would be expensive
tomake.

I'd go to rec.crafts.metelworking and ask around there. Someone will let
you know where to gewt a 1 1?16" threaded faceplate. (The Enco Company
might be the ticket....ask them.)

Hope this helps!

Michael McCammon
Portland, Oregon


From don.h.young@lmco.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:50 EST 1997
Article: 184158 of rec.woodworking
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From: Don Young <don.h.young@lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:36:07 -0500
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Steve Rehrauer wrote:
> 
< Stuff cut out >
> 
> Now I'm trying to learn enough to do things like build nice furniture
> from hardwoods.  I figured if I can't build a decent workbench, then I'd
> better abandon hopes of making that nice chest of drawers in cherry...
> 
> Perhaps you should take a hard look at what you want to do.  If you're
> where I was (repair & rough carpentry, and not planning or knowing how
> to do more), then those fancy Euro-benches are way, way overkill
> unless you have a lot of money to burn.
> 
> If you're where I am now (have ambition, need skills), then you
> perhaps should take the time to do it yourself.  I looked at the
> benches I could afford ($500 and under -- the Sjoberg products are
> about $400, for example), and decided (exactly as Scott Landis says
> in his book) that I could build more for that amount, and learn a
> lot to boot.
> 

I'm currently doing exactly what Steve is suggesting. To develop
reasonable woodworking skills so that I can build nice furniture in the
future, I'm in the middle of building my own workbench. Over Christmas I
picked up a book put out by Better Homes and Garden's Wood Magazine
containing plans for some of the more popular projects they have
published in their magazine. They had plans for a workbench that could
be built over a weekend. Well I've been working on mine for over a month
now. I'm making modifications to their design so that I can learn about
doing cabinet work. I'm adding drawers and a cabinet underneath the
bench. I'm doing the cabinet face frame in black walnut. The basic bench
is made out of 2x4 planed (or cut) down to 2x3. The top is two pieces of
3/4 inch birch ply with a 1/4" replacable hardboard top. A tool tray is
along the back of the bench. The side vice is made from laminated pine
and a #50 pipe clamp. They have additional plans to make a smaller front
vice using laminated maple and end capped with dovetailed black walnut.
It uses a #52 pipe clamp. So far I have about $150 in materials in the
bench, I've learned a lot including how to fix mistakes. My wife has
commented that my workbench will look nicer than any piece of furniture
in the house.

Now that I've been overcome by the joys of woodworking, I'm
contemplating a trip to central Penn. where I can pickup rough cut black
walnut that has been air drying in a barn for 3 years at $1.08 bd ft (I
paid $6.30 bd. ft. for the cut and planed black walnut I purchased for
my bench project). The ad said there is over 8000 bd. ft. of this stuff
for sale.

Don Young
don.h.young@lmco.com


From cring@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:50:51 EST 1997
Article: 184159 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Furniture Plans
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:49:03 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
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Bil Graham wrote:
> 
> Can anyone let me know of a source for plans for furniture of all sorts.
> None of the mags. I get have any ads for plans.

Here's a pretty good start for viewable and downloadable plans, etc. on
the WWW http://theoak.com/gary/index.html There will be links to all
kinds of plans which you can purchase in addition to the free ones you
can download.
Have fun,
Chuck
--



From owen@davies.mv.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:52 EST 1997
Article: 184160 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: owen@davies.mv.com
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
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>   sumone@nowhere.com writes:

(substantial deletion)
  
>  The inboard shaft (where the No. 2 MT is located) is also threaded
>  with a 1 1/16 x 8 TPI.
>  
>  I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
>  the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
>  be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
>  etc.

OneWay will make special-size adapters for their
chucks.  Craft Supplies, in Provo, UT, offers them
for $59.95 (800-551-8866), or you can go directly
to OneWay (800-565-7288), which might be a little
faster, though probably not cheaper.

Hope this helps.


From greg@argent.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:53 EST 1997
Article: 184161 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:51:12 -0600
From: greg@argent.com
Subject: Re: Question for Jet JWTS-10JF Owners
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <5e1n3e$ni8@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>,
  whylandj@kodak.com (whylandj@kodak.com) wrote:
>
>  To my surprise, upon turning the saw on there was a noticeable jerk which was
> not (entirely) present when operating at 120V.

> I need to know if others have experienced a similar problem or am I seeing a
> defective motor here?

My new Jet does the same thing. I'm pretty sure it has to do with a drive
belt that has developed a 'set' (really noticable when I turn the blade
manually - I can turn it 1/2 a rotation and it will swing back the other
direction because the set is so bad - watch those fingers!). I'm going to
buy one of those link belts to see if it gets rid of it.

Greg.
greg@argent.com

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From davidsloan@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:54 EST 1997
Article: 184162 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwood Grading?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:08:03 GMT
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<<>Well, this may be a dumb question, but one that I haven't seen posted
in a
>while. Can anyone give us a comprehensive review of the wood grading
>system and what is allowed for each grade?>>

Pick up a copy of the booklet, "Rules for the Measurement & Inspection of
Hardwood & Cypress: NHLA Sales Code & Regulations" published by the
National Hardwood Lumber Association, P.O. Box 34518, Memphis, TN  38184
USA  901-382-6419

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker mag



From bryan.d.johnson@boeing.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:55 EST 1997
Article: 184163 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bryan D Johnson <bryan.d.johnson@boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
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Kevin Duff wrote:

snip

> Anybody ever see a Porter Cable factory refurbished center? Of course
> not, cuz the stuff never breaks like the cheesy Dewalt stuff.

snip

Actually, I work 1 mile from the local Porter Cable jstore (it also is
the factory repair center for Delta).  They sell factory refurbished
stuff slightly cheaper than retail.  Since the small showroom is nearly
always stuffed full of fairly well used Porter Cable tools I guess they
must just be unsatisfied customer returns.  --

Come on, all manufacturers refurbish and resell their returns & it
doesn't say anything about the quality of the tools.

Bryan


From peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu Sat Feb 15 11:50:56 EST 1997
Article: 184164 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:05:15 GMT
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In article <3303BCA8.3946@worldnet.att.net> Joseph S. Colson,
jscolson@worldnet.att.net writes:
>I've got the PC691 and I'd recommend it.  Lightweight, easy to handle,
>good power for edge treatment and general routing.  Most accessories fit
>it easily.
>
>Joe


I have the PC and love it..... I am thinking of putting under a table
should I get a different base and screw it into the table or will the D
handle fit under the table??


From pilgrim@sirius.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:57 EST 1997
Article: 184165 of rec.woodworking
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From: pilgrim@sirius.com (Pilgrim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Boatbuilding newsgroup?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:18:46 GMT
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Does anyone know of a boatbuilding newsgroup?  I am restoring a houseboat
and need help with finding and working with closed cell foam for
pontoons.  Many thanks in advance.  Please e-mail to:  pilgrim@sirius.com


From Odeen@cris.com Sat Feb 15 11:50:58 EST 1997
Article: 184166 of rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:23:17 -0500
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On 14 Feb 1997, Bennett Leeds wrote:

> Oh, so yet another graduate from the Olguin school of "I wasn't wrong, I 
> was only joking" posting defense.

Hi Bennett!
My widdle feet are getting tired, what with me running around your mind
all day ;^).

ob.ww:
I've never heard of anyone being disappointed with either fence, though
admittedly I don't follow these TS fence threads too closely.



From rlindber@kendaco.telebyte.net.REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY Sat Feb 15 11:51:00 EST 1997
Article: 184167 of rec.woodworking
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From: rlindber@kendaco.telebyte.net.REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY (Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saws-Grizzly vs. Craftsman
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:30:36 -0700
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In article <19970214134000.IAA12236@ladder01.news.aol.com>, caterpa@aol.com
(CaterPA) wrote:

>     Just a question regarding Grizzly vs. Craftsman.  I currently own a 2
>hp Craftsman saw and have had somewhat diappointing results with the
>accuracy of the fence, power of the motor etc. I have a friend who is
>looking to buy a table saw for very rare use and he wants to buy mine.  I
>have considered doing this and getting the Grizzly g1022Z instead but I
>have concerns there too.  It's motor is only 1 1/2 hp.  Is that going to
>be worse than the 2 hp Craftsman.  Has anyone else owned these saws?  How
>do they compare to others in the <$500 range?  Thanks for any help anyone
>can give.
1) Never believe the HP rating Craftsman gives you. I've seen Sears claim
3hp on a 110 Volt motor, You can't get 3 hp at 110 V @ 20 amps. Grizzly's
claims that are much closer to what you can actually get.
2) I'm not convinced the fence on the 1022-Z is really that good (I haven't
used one either though). I bought a 1022 and replaced the fence with a
Vega, which I would do again in a heart beat.
3) Generaly I would never by a Sears over -any- brand, they are over-priced
and lack the quality of other brands. While the Grizzly 1022 series gives a
fair saw for the buck, but the fence on the plain 1022 stinks.

-- 
Ralph Lindberg N7BSN         
RV and Camping FAQ <http://kendaco.telebyte.net/rlindber/rv/
They call it "Surfn' the Net" 'cause you can wipe out so easy


From peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:01 EST 1997
Article: 184168 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How Flat should my Delta 34-444 table be?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:11:35 GMT
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In article <Chuck-1302971328290001@kaynine.wildrice.com> Chuck Rice,
Chuck@nospam.com writes:
>P.S. If you prefer, you can email me at wildrice.com. My email 
>id is "Chuck", but I try not to include it to prevent spam.


I would love to hear the responses... I have noticed this on my new
34-444.  It has not bothered me yet but may be an issue when I want to do
more exact work.


From Lonnie_Smith@dell.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:02 EST 1997
Article: 184169 of rec.woodworking
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From: Lonnie_Smith@dell.com (Lonnie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:40:01 GMT
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In article <33047368.542D@qgraph.com>, ddrewek@qgraph.com says...
>
>T. Davis wrote:
>> 
>> > > Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc,
>> dust
>> > > collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit
>> that
>> > > has good suction and runs quietly.
>> 
>> The April 97 (already!) issue of Wood has a review of dust collecters.
>> 
>> T Davis
>
>I thinkI found a mistake in this already.  I am pretty sure the review
>says Jet's DC650 has plastic blades and the Peter just confirmed they
>are not.  I know my DC1200 is not plastic.  I could be wrong, anyone
>confirm?
>
>
>DC650 did indeed have metal blades. I got mine two days ago and don't have 
any hose to connect it with yet. Boy, the anticipation is killing me!!!!



From gregg@ncc1701a.harvard.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:03 EST 1997
Article: 184170 of rec.woodworking
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From: gregg@ncc1701a.harvard.edu (Gregg Germain)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Date: 14 Feb 97 16:33:07 GMT
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 I use Norm's tool list as a sure indicator of the direction for me to
go:

180 degrees opposite.

--- Gregg
                                      Saville
ggermain@cfa.harvard.edu                #29 Genie
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics   #1762 CRIS
Phone: (617) 496-7713                 "A Mig at your six is better than
                                       no Mig at all."


From mjprusik@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:05 EST 1997
Article: 184171 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matt Prusik <mjprusik@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:47:35 -0500
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Termite wrote:
> 
> StanR wrote:
> >
> > Sag09 wrote:
> > snip
> > But another prioblem with the CMT bits. Well, not the bits actually, but
> > the packing.
> >snip
> 
> Stan,
> You're SO RIGHT. I got my new CMT bits yesterday ( 10 days after the
> order!) and discovered just what you're talking about. I was wondering
> what the heck that was all about. Not every one of the packages had that
> tape on it so I guess it was just the NEW ONES from production - others
> from off-the-shelf.
> In two cases I had to wrap a towel around the bit and use a pair of
> pliers to get the bit out of the packge. Then I was afraid that I would
> scratch the shank - so on the other I tore the paper from the bottom of
> the package, used a drift punch to drive the bit out of the package - be
> sure to catch the bit (or stop short) as you don't want that new bit to
> hit the floor.


	FWIW, you could try squirting the stuff with WD-40.  It will 
dissolve the adhesive and not harm the bit in any way.




From lowe@pacifier.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:06 EST 1997
Article: 184172 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Lowe" <lowe@pacifier.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Question for Jet JWTS-10JF Owners
Date: 14 Feb 1997 15:54:41 GMT
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I had the same experience. I replaced the standard belt with a link belt
and the jerk went away.

Dave Lowe
lowe@pacifier.com

whylandj@kodak.com wrote in article <5e1n3e$ni8@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>...
> I just purchased the JWTS-10JF.  Very nice saw especially considering the

> price (around $540-$20 rebate).  After finding a good location for it in
my 
> shop, I ran a 220V source and rewired the motor according to the
instructions. 
>  To my surprise, upon turning the saw on there was a noticeable jerk
which was 
> not (entirely) present when operating at 120V.  Everyone I've talked to, 
> including Jet technical assistance, claimed the saw should run smoother
on 220 
> but that's not what I noticed.  The amount of jerk is dependent on where
the 
> saw stops (i.e. armature position).  Occasionally the start-up is very
smooth. 
>  Jet claims they've heard similar complaints but had no mention of a fix
at 
> hand.
> 
> I need to know if others have experienced a similar problem or am I
seeing a 
> defective motor here?
> 
> Thx,
> Jeff Whyland
> Rochester, NY
> 
> Opinions are mine and mine alone.
> 
> 
> 


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:07 EST 1997
Article: 184173 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: Just finished a large maple workbench
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 16:13:50 GMT
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In article <5e21f7$4k1@daryl.scsn.net> ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker) writes:
>In article <33034896.5A5C@inreach.com>, chrisr@inreach.com wrote:
>
>>By the way, I want to build an airplane someday - thus the huge size of
>>the bench.
>
>I think you'll need a bigger bench for that 767. ;D  
>
>Anyhow, that's not so huge - some 18th century cabinetmakers had 16' benches.

Ignore him, Chris.  You go right ahead and call that behemoth of yours
"huge".  (I know I and my in-progress, 6' long x 2' wide bench will. :-)
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:08 EST 1997
Article: 184174 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Glennon <mtcowboy@marsweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I Tried Frank's Jig -- It Sucks
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:53:57 GMT
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why do the words anal retentive come to mind?


djf3rd@xpipeline.com writes: > Everybody read the post!
> By US Code Title47,Sec.227(b)(1)(B),a computer/modem/printer
> meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)
> (C),it is unlawful to send any unsolicited commercial e-mail 
> to such equipment,punishable by action to recover actual
> monetary loss or $500.US,whichever is greater,for each violation.
> remove X to reply



From jbt@mti.cdc.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:09 EST 1997
Article: 184175 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J. Brent Taylor" <jbt@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Factory Refurbished Tools (DeWalt): Any Good?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:49:00 -0500
Organization: MTI
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3304977C.2781@mti.cdc.com>
References: <32F2CD0C.8F0@california.com> <19970209154301.KAA12660@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ffd3aa.201586195@news> <01bc199d$af36df20$760d8ea7@princeman> <33033FE0.3F0C@queens.org> <3303DAC0.2BA3@worldnet.att.net>
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To: Kevin Duff <kahuna2@worldnet.att.net>
CC: jbt
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184175

Kevin Duff wrote:
> 
> Anybody ever see a Porter Cable factory refurbished center? Of course
> not, cuz the stuff never breaks like the cheesy Dewalt stuff.

Harbor Feight sells refurbished Porter Cable tools as well as
refurbished DeWalt.

Brent Taylor


From haubert@mbi.org Sat Feb 15 11:51:10 EST 1997
Article: 184176 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:00:19 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <Pine.SUN.3.95.970214111929.827D-100000@viking.cris.com> Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com> writes:
>From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
>Subject: Re: Beisemeyer vs Unifence
>Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:23:17 -0500

>On 14 Feb 1997, Bennett Leeds wrote:

>> Oh, so yet another graduate from the Olguin school of "I wasn't wrong, I 
>> was only joking" posting defense.

>Hi Bennett!
>My widdle feet are getting tired, what with me running around your mind
>all day ;^).


Yeah, Bennett, you sure seem preoccupied with Patrick lately.  I mean, come 
on, he's even been AGREEING with you.  Too bad GPH isn't around anymore, eh?


>ob.ww:
>I've never heard of anyone being disappointed with either fence, though
>admittedly I don't follow these TS fence threads too closely.


Well, maybe you should follow more closely!  I happen to HATE my unifence.  It 
sucks, it's wimpy, it sucks, it's not flat, it sucks, it's a pain to jig, it 
sucks - biesemeyers are WAY better - no contest!

Richy



From jef39@mail.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:11 EST 1997
Article: 184177 of rec.woodworking
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From: jef39@mail.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 17:02:26 GMT
Organization: IDT 
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doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe) wrote:

>I am going to buy either the Porter Cable or Bosch D handle 1 1/2 HP
>router.  I already have a routher that stays in router table, so the D
>Handle will stay put together for hand use.  Any suggestions as to which
>is the best, most comfortable, etc. to use.  Thanks
We use the pc 1.5's for laminate trimming, the bosch 2.25 for 1/2"
roundover and the pc 3.25's for larger bits.
The switch on the pc d handle goes bad, the height adjusment  and
collet on the bosch are no good and the 5 speed pc eventually trips
out under heavy load. Try using an acylic offset subbase with the
smooth running single speed pc 3.25 instead of a underpowered 1.5 D
handle.
Jef Finger
Jef Finger Specialty Woodworking Inc.



From ktucker*@scsn.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:12 EST 1997
Article: 184178 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: work benches to buy
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 16:56:11 GMT
Organization: South Carolina SuperNet, Inc.
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Message-ID: <5e29j8$i8@daryl.scsn.net>
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>> If you're where I am now (have ambition, need skills), then you
>> perhaps should take the time to do it yourself.  I looked at the
>> benches I could afford ($500 and under -- the Sjoberg products are
>> about $400, for example), and decided (exactly as Scott Landis says
>> in his book) that I could build more for that amount, and learn a
>> lot to boot.
>> 

BTW - The smaller Sjoberg (sic?) benches with two vises and the drawer were 
carried by our local Lowe's for a while.  They discontinued stocking them a 
little while back, but I found one in the box on a shelf - $99 for a $400 
bench is not too bad.  
 

Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From prbouman@wwa.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:13 EST 1997
Article: 184179 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Paul Bouman" <prbouman@wwa.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Boatbuilding newsgroup?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 16:53:12 GMT
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Try rec.boats.building.   It's a fairly active group.


From schmill@cs.umass.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:14 EST 1997
Article: 184180 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matteo Schmill <schmill@cs.umass.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: reliant 14" bandsaw (any good?)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:04:33 -0500
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Woodworker's Warehouse has the Reliant 14" bandsaw listed for $249 if
I'm not mistaken. At that price, I could probably afford it !

I'd be using the saw to bookmatch 5-6" wide hardwoods and for rough
shaping of guitar necks and bodies (typically laminates 2"-4" thick).

I'm wondering if I will end up frustrated with this saw because it can't
do what I ask or it does it poorly. I'm not expecting a great saw, just
one that will get me where I want.


From dickmac@ Sat Feb 15 11:51:15 EST 1997
Article: 184181 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Question on Bench grinder & burning.
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:19:23 -0700
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On Fri, 14 Feb 1997 04:32:16 GMT, johnjordan@mindspring.com (John Jordan) may
have written:

>schaper@ix.netcom.com(John F Schaper) wrote:
>
>>In <19970212195401.OAA04797@ladder01.news.aol.com> hackwood@aol.com
>>(Hackwood) writes: 

>>There is a device that can be used to slow equipment down by reducing
>>voltage. It's called a VariAC. I've seen them for sale used several
>>times at reasonable prices. It is a box about the size 4"x4"x4" and has
>>a cord with plug. The box has a dial for setting variable voltage and a
>>female socket to plug you equipment cord into.

A Variac is a variable transformer and when rotated changes the voltage
supplied to the motor. Some motors can be damaged and may burn out windings
if you reduce the voltage below the normal range. Most grinders also use
induction motors which are synchronous and won't change speed just from
reducing the voltage.

Universal motors such as used in electric drills, etc. can often be safely
powered from a variac, but if you value your grinder don't try using it on a
variac.

And, by the way, variacs come in a number of sizes and power ratings. If you
use one that is too small it will probably burn out before whatever it is
powering does. One in a 4 inch cube won't handle very much power and is
possibly too small to run a 1/3 horsepower motor. Check it's amperage rating
before trying to use it. 

Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From paull@vt.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:16 EST 1997
Article: 184182 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Paul Franklin" <paull@vt.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: 14 Feb 1997 17:28:17 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech
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charles_sampson@sra.com wrote in article <855838177.31501@dejanews.com>...
> Hi,
> 
> I have been searching the archives in dejanews for kiln information.  I
> noticed that there were several threads about kilns and kiln plans in the
> last couple of years.  I am close to finishing a bandsaw mill (still have
> a few bugs to work out) and now I have to start thinking about a kiln.  I
> thought about both dehumidifying and solar and was wondering if anyone
> here had built a solar kiln. 
<SNIP>
I built one because I live in an area where green hardwoods are readily
available and very cheap, but ready to use hardwood lumber is hard to find
and expensive.  However, my family and job keep me too busy to do much
woodworking.  Consequently I'm still working my way through last summers
run of 500 bft.  Here is a starting reference if you want to track down
some expert information on the subject.

   CALL NO: LD5655 A522 F682 1985
    AUTHOR: Wengert, Eugene M.
MAIN TITLE: Solar heated, lumber dry kiln designs : a discussion and a
            compilation of existing solar heated lumber dry kiln designs
            / by Eugene M. Wengert and Luiz Carlos Oliveira.
 PUBLISHER: Blacksburg, Va. : Department of Forest Products, Brooks  Forest

At least one of the kilns shown has had at least 200 versions built
world-wide. My own, very amateur, remarks as follows:
1.) Practical solar kilns seem to top-out near 2000 bft and take under
optimum conditions 6 weeks/load.  Six weeks is really good, you might
average closer to 12 weeks.  Is that enough throughput for you?
2.) Your figure of 10% waste seems optimistic.  By the time I cut the green
planks to fit my kiln, discard the nasty grained stuff (twists no matter
where it is in the stack) and cut out end checking on the dry stuff, I am
way over 10%.  Doesn't bother me though because it makes great kindling.
3.) In your design (or variation of someone else's) be real carefull about
loading methods.  I just made the front wall removable and the top 100 ft
can be a pain to load (especially if a family of wasps move in!).
4.) Even the slow process of a solar kiln is not load-and-foreget.  You
will have to buy a moisture meter, visit the kiln daily and adjusted your
fan/vent system per some reasonable drying schedule.

If you can't find that pamphlete anywhere, send me an e-mail.  There is a
more general wood conversion book out of the UK that has a good chapter on
solar kilns.  I just can't find it right now...



From artn2880@infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:17 EST 1997
Article: 184183 of rec.woodworking
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From: artn2880@infi.net (Artman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HELP - ISO Leather desktop veneer
Date: 14 Feb 1997 17:24:39 GMT
Organization: Vagabond
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Hi, I have a partners desk that has a leather top that needs to
be replaced.  Do you know of a supplier?
Thanks


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:18 EST 1997
Article: 184184 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I Tried Frank's Jig -- It Sucks
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 17:40:12 GMT
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my post was meant to say that there is something of value regardless
of the "strange" way it is titled.  this is a ng for woodworking if
you have the need to quip, try somewhere else.  boy dave, you sure
woke up on the wrong side of the bed today!  and it being valentines'
day too!
remove x to reply
pursuant to US Code,Title47,Chap.5,Subchap.II
any and all nonsolicited commercial e-mail sent
to this address is subject to a download and archival fee
in the amount $500.00US..E-mailing denotes acceptance of terms.


From davev@u.washington.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:19 EST 1997
Article: 184185 of rec.woodworking
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From: davev@u.washington.edu (D. Van Ess)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How many outlets on a breaker?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 17:34:16 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
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In article <5e0oqd$veg@ratty.wolfe.net>,
R. Duniway <rduniway@wolfenet.com> wrote:
>In article <Pine.LNX.3.91.970210163241.6155P-100000-100000@newton.pconline.com>, The Lorax <lorax@pconline.com> says:
>>
>>On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, Alan Murphy wrote:
>>
>>> You can have as many as you want.  The limit is on how many things you
>>> can run off a single breaker.  15 outlets with 15 devices each pulling
>>> .95 of an amp on a 15 amp breaker wouldn't over load it... 
>>
>>     You are of course completely correct here, but as with most
>>everything in our society there is a political side to it.  In most areas
>>building codes will specify a maximum number of outlets you can have wired
>>to a single 15 or 20 amp breaker.  If you have more than the prescribed
>>number you can be cited that your w

When I wired my shop I put in 6 lines of 110 with 4 outlets on each
I wired it in such a way that a 110 box would be on a different circuit
than the ones on either side.  That way I would have 3 lines to use in one
area.
I also ran one 110 phase along one side of my shop and the other phase on
the other side. (My Shop is 20 heet wide.)  So from any place in my shop
the worst voltage shock I can get is 110V (for a malfunctioning tool to
ground) If the phases are mixed you could manage to come in contact with
220V (110 - -110) 

I have 3 lines of 220 with three boxes.  I bunch the three boxes together
because they are used to run stationary tools and those are distributed
about the shop.  I also ran 2 lines of 220 for the electric heat I have.
They only have 1 box each because the 4K heaters take the full load.

Dave Van Ess




From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:19 EST 1997
Article: 184186 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:24:05 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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The JET DC1200 is definitly METAL BLADES - don't know about the 650 -
call JET


From wmleonard@lucent.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:21 EST 1997
Article: 184187 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Leonard <bml@whuffo.ih.lucent.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Furniture Plans
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:24:08 -0800
Organization: Lucent Technologies
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3304BBD8.242B@whuffo.ih.lucent.com>
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Bil Graham wrote:
> 
> Can anyone let me know of a source for plans for furniture of all sorts.
> None of the mags. I get have any ads for plans.

Check out your local library. I have gotten ideas and plans for a number
of projects around the house and yard this way. Yes, there's tradeoff on
borrowing a book free for three weeks or buying it outright for $20 or
more.

For a town of less than 20,000, my local library has a very good
selection of ww books.

Bill
-- 
Bill Leonard
wmleonard@lucent.com
http://www-gv.ih.lucent.com/~bml
(good only inside Lucent's firewall)


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:22 EST 1997
Article: 184188 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Selection
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:28:02 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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r s herman wrote:
snip
>  A Jet with riser blocks is my best cost/value/utility
> consensus.
> 
> Roger H.--
> Life is too important to take seriously.
Roger,
I agree with you. I've had my JET 14" for two years and have been
extremley pleased with it - I'm sure you will be with yours !


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:22 EST 1997
Article: 184189 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood by mail
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:05:38 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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John Paquay wrote:
> 
> I've had good luck with mail-order mills, but the UPS shipping cost usually
> makes up for any great bargain in the price of the lumber...
> 
I just received my first order of mail-order wood this week and I'm
happy
with it.  I ordered a "Babe Value Pack" of black walnut from Blue Ox
Hardwoods (http://www.blueoxhardwoods.com).  They ship free to most
of the eastern half of the US and $0.50 per board foot for western 
states.  I haven't actually measured the value pack to see what it
costs per board foot (it's 50 pounds) but it's exactly what I was
looking for and I'm happy with the price.  Your mileage may vary.
I'll be shopping with them again.

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From dickmac@ Sat Feb 15 11:51:23 EST 1997
Article: 184190 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hocky Stick
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:28:33 -0700
Organization: Dimensional Communications
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Bill Moore may have written:

> 
> My neighbor's 12 year old boy seems interested in woodworking,
> so I foolishly suggested he think of something he's like to
> build. Oh well, I guess I started that way too! Anyway, he wants
> to build an ice hockey stick. This brings up some interesting
> questions:
> 1. What kind of wood is typically used? Is it the same kind of
>    wood for the handle and the blade? (Hope I've got these terms OK).
> 2. I assume there are some standards out there, as to length, weight,
>    etc. These may not be too important to a 12 year old, but if we
>    can build it right, so much the better.
> 3. If the handle and blade are typically made from two different pieces
>    of wood, what is the recommended joint? First impulse is to make it a
>    mitered bridle joint.
> 4. What kind of wear strip is typically used on the bottom of the blade?
> 5. Most important: can anyone point me to some plans!?
> 
> I'd sure like to get this kid interested in woodworking. He seems like
> a great kid, and we need some new blood in this hobby!
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> - Bill Moore                 208.773.1317      -
> - 3675 W. Hollister Dr.      208.773.6685 FAX  -
> - Post Falls, idaho  83854   bmoore@micron.net -
> ------------------------------------------------

Well, Bill that's an ambitious project. With the current crop of hockey
sticks featuring a curved (hooked) blade, I'd be willing to bet that the
blades are mostly laminated. Perhaps the handles are also. In my childhood
(almost before home power tools) the sticks were make of hickory (I think)
and the blades were straight. They were about 3/8" thick at the bottom of the
blade and about 1/8-3/16" thick at the top. Often we would wrap friction (not
the modern plastic stuff but the cloth stuff) around the blade to help
cushion it from the puck. It also helped in control of the puck. Anyhow I've
not been much help but the suggestion to look them over at a sporting goods
or hardware store is a good one. Perhaps you'll see how to do it.
Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From dantes@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:25 EST 1997
Article: 184191 of rec.woodworking
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From: dantes@erols.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: brad nailers: senco or bostich
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 17:44:51 GMT
Organization: Smartnet Internet Services [via news]
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   I use the Senco SLP20, and wouldn't trade it for any other. It fits
nice in my hand, is quiet, and easy to work on/with.

			Pat



bearfoot@erols.com wrote:

>I'm looking for a brad nailer, and see two main brands on the market,
>Senco and Stanley/Bostich.  Senco is substantially more expensive, and I
>question if the cost difference is worth it?  I've heard the Bostich
>needs to have the o-rings replaced more frequently than the Senco, but
>that Bostich makes the o-rings much more easier to replace than the ones
>for Senco.
> 
>What are the thoughts for Senco vs Bostich??
>
>Paul

pwshomo@us.net


From dickmac@ Sat Feb 15 11:51:26 EST 1997
Article: 184192 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS: Belt vs Direct Drive, Benchtop vs Free standing?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:42:05 -0700
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On 12 Feb 1997 22:18:17 GMT, mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) may have
written:

>  I'm really new to woodworking and I'm dreaming about getting a table saw. So
>I was wondering if someone can tell me the pros/cons of the various types of
>table saws? I imagine a free standing TS would be more versatile than a
>benchtop model. But a benchtop model is a whole lot cheaper! All of the direct
>drive models I've played with in the stores seem smoother in operating the
>depth and tilt adjustments than the belt driven models. The belt drive models
>have more cut depth (at 90 that is. At 45, both have about the same 2.25) than
>the direct drives. BTW, I've read the review of several free standing models at
>http://www.augusthome.com/tsaw_rev.htm. 
>
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com

Hi, cuz,

IMHO it really depends upon what you're planning to do with it. The smaller
benchtop models are OK for rough work and are really what you want if you
intend to move the thing around a lot. I personally have (and you'll get lots
of pros and cons about it) a Ryobi. It is basically a benchtop saw but
usually comes with a well-integrated stand with wheels and can be moved
around easily. With accessories it can handle just about anything you'd want
to do with a table saw. I use mine mostly for cabinet making. It has a rather
large ripping capacity so it's good for cutting up plywood. I find it quite
smooth to change depth and tilt. It is belt drive but it uses very short
belts and seems more like direct drive since the motor is still under the
table and not in the back as in most belt drive models. It suspect that the
belts are used to allow the motor to be lower to give a wider range of tilt
adjustment and a deeper cutting ability than most 10 inch direct drive
machines.

The biggest complaint that I have with it is that it is rather noisy. They
use a universal motor and that requires hearing protection. On the other hand
it offers more capability for about $600 (with accessories) than most any
other brand.

Good luck, Mike
Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sat Feb 15 11:51:27 EST 1997
Article: 184193 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: 14 Feb 1997 12:53:00 -0500
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
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In article <01bc1864$5bd1bec0$561193cf@jmv_1.state.co.us>,
Jerry and Lisa <jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Hey everyone..   I have a question and I hope that someone can help me out
>here..   I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for my
>kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me to
>a web page or show a picture of a pattern of a kitty condo or scratching
>post..  I want it to be a nice place for my cats, something sturdy, but I
>don't want to spend $200 on something my cats are going to scratch up.. 
>Please, if anyone can direct me to a good web page with patterns on it, I'd
>love that.. 

Really, the goals of a kitty condo type object and a scratching post
can be quite different. We never had any luck getting our cat to 
scratch his carpet covered "cat fort". He just doesn't like to scratch
carpet, and reflecting on that, that is a *good* thing (who came up
with the idea that cats should be indoctrinated to scratch carpet &
fabric as a matter of course anyway?). Actually, he doesn't care about
sisel (sp? I mean "rope") either. 

I finally ran across the (an) answer years back when I read somewhere
that some cats are irresistably attracted to cork. I made a very crude
"scratching post" out of two 3 1/2 foor long sections of 2X4 (glued
together with good old Elmers) and attached that to a plywood base
(about 2 1/2' x 1 1/2') so it wouldn't tip (these dimensions from memory
-- the important thing is to make the base wide enough the cat can't
tip it even if they hang off one side and kick). Once that was done, I
got out the Elmer's again and a large roll of cork I bought somewhere.
I glued cork around the 4x4 upright and over the top of the base. The
cat was mesmerized by this when introduced to it as a kitten. It is
now ten years later and the cat still loves this silly (and much
battered) post for his scratching. He has at least 1/2 the cork off of
it (and vacuuming up the cork is a minor irritation, but doesn't
really require much effort or need to be done any more often than normal
sweeping). He identifies this object (the scratching post) as "his".
The cat fort, he also identifies as "his", but that is used for three
essential purposes:

1.) A place to put his food where the dogs can't get it.
2.) A place to "play".
3.) a place to escape the dogs when he has sufficently torked 
    them off that inaccessibitiy for a while is advisable (besides,
    he can bat at them from one of the "holes" and they have little
    chance of being sufficiently quick to successfully retaliate).

Not all of this post relates directly to woodworking, I'll admit, and
what it does contain is pretty simple (albeit crude), but sometimes
(not often enough, sadly) the simple answer is the best solution.

-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From horne@cs.utexas.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:27 EST 1997
Article: 184194 of rec.woodworking
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From: horne@cs.utexas.edu (Patrick J. Horne)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hardware wanted
Date: 14 Feb 1997 11:59:29 -0600
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184194


A few years ago I bought a cookbook tray that mounts under an upper kitchen
cabinet.  When not in use it is held up flat to the bottom of the cabinet
via a magnet.  The same arangement was used for a knife storage tray.  Now
that I am in need for the hardware kit that was used on these trays, I can't
find them in any of the catalogs that I have.  Does anyone know where to get
them?

Thanks,
Pat


-- 
- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Hardware Guru 
CS Dept, University of Texas, Austin, Tx. 78712 USA 
voice (512)471-9517, fax (512)471-8885, UUCP:cs.utexas.edu!horne


From levy@uab.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:28 EST 1997
Article: 184195 of rec.woodworking
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From: levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Building a fairly large maple top bench: question
Date: 14 Feb 1997 17:49:45 GMT
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I just purchased a laminated maple "buther block" that was intended for
a counter top and is 6' x 3'.  I intend to build a workbench around it
that has a Record 53E vice on front and a Veritas twin screw vice as an
end vice.  I bought this thing because I got it cheap, but it is only 1
3/4 inches thick.  I am thinking of attaching a piece of 3/4 inch
plywood to the underside as a thickener, the rationale being that the
dog holes should be deeper than 1 & 3/4" and that this will add
stiffness and heft to the bench.  Any thoughts on this idea or other
suggestions on how I should modify this maple top for my bench?  I
could always buy the other 3' x 6' x 1 3/4 bench top the store had (97
dollars) and attach it to the one I have, but that seems a shame to do.

One other question:  since the top will be 3' wide, the Veritas ts vice
will only cover part of the end of the bench, which is supposed to be a
no no, according to the instructions that came with it, becuase of
seasonal wood movement messing up the alignment of the vice.  I
understand that the wood movement at the end of the vice will be more
than at the front, but why does this mess up the alignment?  Should I
make the back jaw cover the entire 3' end, in that case, even though
the front jaw will be only about 24 inches?  I can't wait to start
building this thing.  Thanks for the info.



David N. Levy
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

levy@uab.edu


From firebrock@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:29 EST 1997
Article: 184196 of rec.woodworking
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From: firebrock@aol.com (FIREBROCK)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FWW BACK ISSUES
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:26:50 GMT
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I am interested in those if you still have them. How much are you asking
and where are you???? I am in california..


From jcrum Sat Feb 15 11:51:30 EST 1997
Article: 184197 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Crum <jcrum>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CMT Router Bits
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:38:40 GMT
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/National Center for Microscopy and Imaging Research
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Oh god.  Am I in the middle of a similar horror story???

I, too, purchased the router template guide set.  The old set- these were a bit
rough, too.  I didn't like the length of the collar- it varied from a bit over
1/4" to nearly 3/4", depending on the size of the guide.  None of the bits I
had would work with a template thicker than 1/4" (that is, the shaft of the bit
is too short).  So, I sent e-mail to CMT (Florida).  They promised to get me a
new set when thier newly designed sets became available.  Well, that was before
Christmas.  And because I could not use the old (useless) template guides, some
of my Christmas gifts did not get finished!  So, beginning of January, I got
the CMT catalog- with the new guides proudly displayed.  So, another e-mail to
Mats Rydin at CMT.  They instructed me to send the set back, and it would be
replaced.  It's been awhile (need to look for my shipping receipt to be sure)
and I still have no guides.  I hope to hell that CMT is not gonna dis me!  They
have a good reputation with the quality of their router bits (I don't own any
of them, so can't say from experience).  I hope that they aren't gonna let this
lack of customer service ruin them!

jc
-- 
John Crum
UCSD School of Medicine
Department of Neurosciences
National Center for Microscopy and Imaging Research
voice: (619) 534-2583
email: jcrum@alex.ucsd.edu
dumb hompage: http://www-ncmir.ucsd.edu/~jcrum



From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:31 EST 1997
Article: 184198 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Contractors Saw Blade Retraction Problem
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:39:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I also have Delta CS, the regular one, not the Cont II. You didn't say
which you had. Anyway, the blade definetly does retract fully and should.
Once in a while the blade adjustment does bind or get stiif and all it
requires is that I brush off rack and pinion and lube with some stick wax,
then it's smooth as silk again. Look carefully under table and see if
blade, pivot or any part of mechanism is hitting something and see if rack
is at end of travel.


From doryjoe@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:33 EST 1997
Article: 184199 of rec.woodworking
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From: doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Installing small hinges
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:46:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I am just getting into small boxes, jewlery boxes, music boxes etc.  I
would be interested in suggestions RE: installing butt type hinges.  There
must be some tricks to this delicate procedure.  Help appreciated.  Joe


From drewid@lanminds.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:34 EST 1997
Article: 184200 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Announcing a new group: alt.sculpture
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:35:00 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
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[Alt.sculpture is for discussion of: works of sculpture,
including reviews of shows, web sites, books, and installations;
techniques of sculpture, including (but not limited to)  carving,
casting, modeling, and assemblage in all three-dimensional media;
theories of art as they relate to sculpture, and opportunities for
creating, showing, and commissioning sculpture. The group is not
restricted to the discussion of fine art sculpture. Modelmakers, 
prototypers, patternmakers, and others involved in making 3-d 
objects are welcome to participate.

Alt.sculpture is now up and running. Please feel free to post any 
sculpture-related thoughts or enquiries. If it doesn't show up on your 
list of available newsgroups, ask your internet service provider to 
add it; often they will not update their lists until a request is made.]

Andrew



Now at last you can see the art of Andrew Werby: sculpture, jewelry, and 
graphics.
Browse the "techniques" section for information on various art 
processes.
Link to places on the web with information useful to artists.
Be the first on your block to know what "juxtamorphic" art is!


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:35 EST 1997
Article: 184201 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Got my JET Bandsaw, Wheel Alingment ?????
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:56:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Just a note: I have the Delta 14" BS and also have made this check and
adjustment. While the saw is close to beong co-planer, I have found that
the blade used and the corresponding tension setting will also affect this
adjustment.


From scholten@onramp.i2k.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:36 EST 1997
Article: 184202 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: scholten@onramp.i2k.com (Dave Scholten)
Subject: 3 hp plunge routers to BIG for hand held work??
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <E5Lt2w.IwM@onramp.i2k.com>
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I'm about to buy one router for my shop.  I would like the Freud FT2000E, but
I'm concerned that it will be TOO BIG to handle.  Is this basically the
opionion of the professionals out there?  I can't afford two routers....

Would the Bosch 1613 EVS be a good compromise for plunge/HP/features
and still be able to handle it on top and under a router table?

Thanks,
Dave



From trinvest@ccom.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:37 EST 1997
Article: 184203 of rec.woodworking
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From: trinvest@ccom.net (ChrisLaBelle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Need plans: Single bunk w/ desk below
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 15:51:16 GMT
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Looking for some plans to construct a bunk/desk combo. At approx eye
level is a single bunk, then below the bed is a desk and can add some
bookshelves to set up a sleep/study combo. Any
ideas/directions/insights would be appreicated. Thx in advance



From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:38 EST 1997
Article: 184204 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 19:04:44 GMT
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I just got a new Jet DC650. Blades are metal (for sure). Works very well
(at machine) &  is able to deal with TS, 6" jointer or 12" planer no
problem. I'm surprised how quiet it is. Not bothersome to leave running
during a shop session. Jet seems to have somewhat better specs (static
pressure) than other 1hp taiwanese DC's. Very happy with purchase. They
still have rebates on DC in
 effect.


From mcnair@nortel.ca Sat Feb 15 11:51:39 EST 1997
Article: 184205 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken McNair <mcnair@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: British mail-order firm
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:35:33 -0500
Organization: Nortel Public Carrier Networks
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David Harris wrote:
> 
> kevin holohan <kevin_holohan@3mail.3com.com> wrote in article
> <33006B69.4324@3mail.3com.com>...
> > Andrew Tune wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi!
> > >
> > > I'm interesting in mail-ordering some British tools, and it seems that
> > > the most sensible approach would be to order them from a British firm.
> > >
> > > Before someone asks, I know of a number of good US firms, but it seems
> > > intuitively obvious that buying from the country of origin should be
> > > cheaper.  In any case, I have the US catalogues and will be able to
> > > compare.
> > >
> Good luck on the prices !
> I'm a Brit living in the US and have found a good range of British tools
> available over here (Woodcraft, Garrett-Wade, etc.). When I visited the
> motherland, I thought that I would pick up some tools and save myself a bob
> or two. To my dismay, the tools were priced above what I could get them for
> here in the US ! If you are going to buy them by mail order, then you have
> also got to add the shipping charges. My advice is to source the tools here
> in the US unless you are looking for something very specific that is not
> available here.
> Cheers,
>           Dave Harris

I had the same experience - I can buy British tools cheaper in Lee Valley
here in Canada then I could in Britain.
Visited Buck & Ryan, Tyzack, and Isaac Lord but didn't buy much.
The only tools to buy are unique tools not imported to North America (although
in my experience they are usually imports from Germany or other European
countries) or nice antique tools.


From mbush@nortel.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:40 EST 1997
Article: 184206 of rec.woodworking
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From: mbush@nortel.com (Michael Bush)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ryobi Table top Jointer (was Re:Table top jointers (Delta 37-070)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:39:55 -0400
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 I have the Ryobi table top jointer and I was wondering if anyone out
there who has one has treated the table surfaces.  If so, what did you
use? paste wax? baby powder?
Thanks in advance for any info.

Michael

-- 
"We called him Tortoise because he taught us," said the Mock Turtle angrily.  "Really you are very dull!"

Michael Bush
mbush@nortel.com


From This, site Sat Feb 15 11:51:41 EST 1997
Article: 184207 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken <Kimv@direct.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which dado blade
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:43:35 -0800
Organization: Actually, I'm not very well organized!
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <330425B7.5868@direct.ca>
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Mark Trombley wrote:
> 
> whylandj@kodak.com wrote in article <5dabn7$r8f@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>...
> > I'm interested in purchasing a dado blade for my Jet contractors saw.  I
> have
> > no prior experience and was hoping for some suggestions on a good one to
> buy.
> >
> > Thx,
> > Jeff Whyland
> > Rochester, NY
> >
> >
> I believe that Jet restricts you to a 6" diameter dado because of the
> arbor design (check your manual).  This is the case on both the JTAS
> and JWCS models.  Both Forrest and Freud make excellent 6"
> fine and super fine stacked dados.  Freud also has a new adjustable
> "Super" dado available in 6" but I have read nothing about it yet.  Amana
> and Sysmatic (Spelling?) also make very high quality dados.  I would
> recommend staying away from the "wobble" type dados as they will
> not cut a flat bottom and the edges will not be as clean as a good
> stacked dado.
> 
> Mark T.
I'll concur with the selection of the "Freud"! Have been using them for
years now and I am very happy with them....think they're good value for
the $

Ken....British Columbia, Canada


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:42 EST 1997
Article: 184208 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: 14 Feb 1997 20:02:02 GMT
Organization: Infinet
Lines: 30
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In article <manhart-1402970840350001@manhart-quadra660.tamu.edu>,
   manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart) wrote:
>In article <5e02ee$kld@kelly.iaonline.com>, cavalier@iaonline.com
>(Cavalier) wrote:
>
>> I recently picked up the 8" Delta benchtop bandsaw, and have only one 
problem 
>> with it: the blade runs right on the forward edge of the wheels, so when 
>> backing out of a cut I often drag the blade forward just enough to pull
>it off 
>> the wheels. 
>> 
>SNIP
>
>There is a tilting adjustment on this saw that controls the position of
>the blade on the wheels.  Unplug the saw and turn the wheels by hand while
>slowly changing the adjustment.  Once it appears to be in the proper
>position, give it several more turns to make sure that it is going to stay
>in the middle of the wheel.  
>
>Good luck,

I have just purchased the 8" bandsaw, and am having the same problem.  I have 
not been able to get the wheels to align properly using the set screw, either, 
 and my blade also runs toward the front of the top wheel, though I have had 
no problems with it falling off.  I, too, would be interested in hearing 
someone who had solved the problem.  As far as I can tell, the adjustment 
screw alone will not do it.

Brad W.


From natom@ixnetcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:43 EST 1997
Article: 184209 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:41:31 -0600
From: natom@ix.netcom.com
Subject: for sale (shaper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <855882308.2200@dejanews.com>
Reply-To: natom@ixnetcom.com
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Craftsman wood shaper for sale.. Large model used for 2 projects includes
cutters and extra spindle. also includes stand.
best offer over $200.00
Illinois area.
natom@ix.netcom.com

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From stevee@wa.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:44 EST 1997
Article: 184210 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:51:07 -0600
From: stevee@wa.net
Subject: table saw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Reply-To: stevee@wa.net
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Looking for a used table saw in the Tacoma area

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:45 EST 1997
Article: 184211 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need plans: Single bunk w/ desk below
Date: 14 Feb 1997 20:27:50 GMT
Organization: none
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In article <5e2cl3$2f3@Holly.aa.net>, trinvest@ccom.net says...
>
>Looking for some plans to construct a bunk/desk combo. At approx eye
>level is a single bunk, then below the bed is a desk and can add some
>bookshelves to set up a sleep/study combo. Any
>ideas/directions/insights would be appreicated. Thx in advance
>

Im half way there on the bunk/desk/storage combo. Made a loft bed
out of redwood for my boy, looks very nice so far. Havent added
anything underneath yet, have wandered to other projects. Seems
my friends are all calling in favors and my shop is putting out
stuff for them. Anyways, if youre interested, email me, Ill
share any details I can. No design for a desk yet tho.
Try looking at some of those sunshine books they sell at HD and HB, 
they have a few on kids furniture, thats where I got my ideas so far.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From kempfer@mosquitonet.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:46 EST 1997
Article: 184212 of rec.woodworking
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From: Roger & Jo Kempfer <kempfer@mosquitonet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 09:07:15 -0900
Organization: MosquitoNet * Shred the Web!
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References: <01bc1957$c5a97ec0$4b3378cf@rharding.airnet.net> <33037CD3.5BD4@scripps.edu> <01bc19e6$34276220$675a45c6@mick-davis> <33047368.542D@qgraph.com>
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See current issue of the Wood Magazine.  They compared all of them.  
rk


From gregg@ncc1701a.harvard.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:47 EST 1997
Article: 184213 of rec.woodworking
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From: gregg@ncc1701a.harvard.edu (Gregg Germain)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Boatbuilding newsgroup?
Date: 14 Feb 97 18:36:29 GMT
Organization: Harvard University University Information Systems
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3304b0ad.0@cfanews.harvard.edu>
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Pilgrim (pilgrim@sirius.com) wrote:
: Does anyone know of a boatbuilding newsgroup?  I am restoring a houseboat
: and need help with finding and working with closed cell foam for
: pontoons.  Many thanks in advance.  Please e-mail to:  pilgrim@sirius.com

 rec.boats.building


--- Gregg
                                      Saville
ggermain@cfa.harvard.edu                #29 Genie
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics   #1762 CRIS
Phone: (617) 496-7713                 "A Mig at your six is better than
                                       no Mig at all."


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:48 EST 1997
Article: 184214 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Purpose of Different Combo Sanders?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 20:21:27 GMT
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I need a sanding center.
I have the money.
I have the space.
I am confused.

Can someone explain the purpose of different sanding combinations?  For 
instance, I see a lot of 4"x36", 6" disc combos out there and they seem to be 
very popular.  But, I also see the 1" belt 8"/5" combinations as well.  My 
question is not about which brand is better, but what kind of projects the 
different setups are intended for.  What do you use the belt portion for, and 
what do you use the disc portion for?  Is there a special setup for sanding 
curves or for "hobby" type work?  I seem to be gravitating more towards small 
stuff, like boxes/small furniture/toys and children's furniture.  What's the 
best setup for that sort of work?  I am familiar with what spindle sanders do, 
it is the belt/disc combination that has me flustered.  Any help would be 
greatly appreciated.  I am thinking benchtop, Delta, and under $200.  Am I in 
the ballpark?  Thanks in advance.

Brad W.
The Clueless One    


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:49 EST 1997
Article: 184215 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Drawer Guides for Frameless Cabinet
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 15:52:43 -0500
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Help.

I have to replace three pairs of 17" long drawer guides for an
Italian-made contemporary cherry dresser (all MDF). 

The originals are side mounted, with ball-bearings in the runners, and
plastic parts. Needless to say, the plastic has broken, and the
ball-bearings have fallen out. I have not seen this style in any catalog
or from any manufacturer (you name them, I've seen them: I have the
Outwater catalog as well as Woodworker's Hardware. Between these two,
they have all the heavy hitters).

The dresser cabinet is a frameless design (i.e. there is no front "ribs"
or "rails" for the front of the drawer guide to rest on, the guide must
be attached to the side walls of the cabinet). The problem is that there
is only 1/8" of clearance on each side of the drawers. All the guides
need at least 1/2" (one I saw needs only 3/8" clearance).

Should someone happen to be familiar with this glossy cardboard mess
that we pretend to call a dresser, there is a channel routed into the
outsides of the drawer sides (going from front to back) which is 3/4"
wide x 1/4" deep.

Side mounted drawer guides with a 1/8" clearance would be great, or
perhaps the drawers could be retrofitted with some undermount drawer
guides, with channels cut out of the backs of the drawers to allow the
drawer guides to extend (Blum makes these styles for about $20/pair
which is very expensive!

I hope that there is someone out there who is resourceful enough to
steer me in the right direction. And, while I'm at it, just in case I do
not get the oppurtunity to diligently read this newsgroup (maybe I'm too
lazy, or maybe my news server is down, or maybe for the first time in 6
years I take a vacation, or maybe I just happen to think that it is the
courteous thing to do since I would certainly do the same), please
E-mail me the response and suggestions as well as posting them in this
noble newsgroup (which I do try to read as often as I can!). I
appreciate that in advance (so I don't clutter anyone's mailbox with
wasted space just to say, "Thanks". I think that my intentions are good.
However, I will be happy to publish my succeses and failures so that
others can share in my travails).
-- 
Daniel


From shafner@webspan.net Sat Feb 15 11:51:50 EST 1997
Article: 184216 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news.webspan.net!usenet
From: shafner@webspan.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP - ISO Leather desktop veneer
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 15:55:35 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184216

Artman wrote:
> 
> Hi, I have a partners desk that has a leather top that needs to
> be replaced.  Do you know of a supplier?
> Thanks

I'm not being sarcastic, but if you try the manufacturer, you might find
that a lot cheaper than putting one together yourself. Most desk tops
are very easy to take off. They are usually only held in place by
screws.
-- 
Daniel


From jsurpre53@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:51 EST 1997
Article: 184217 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help!! Clamp Caddy???
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:06:20 GMT
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I'm looking for a set of plans that was recently run in a periodical for a
mobil "C and Bar Clamp" caddy.  If anyone out there remembers who
published it I would be forever thankful. 

Also on how to turn a picture into a measured shop drawing. This was also
run in the last year or so.  Help........
John   
(JSurpre53@aol.com)


From salgarcia@prodigy.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:52 EST 1997
Article: 184218 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sal Garcia <salgarcia@prodigy.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:02:20 -0800
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> >:      Peggy Knapp
> >:      Suzanne Eglie(sp)
> >:      Joanne Liebler
> >:      Robin Hartle
> >

IMHO, Joanne was the most credible of the 4. Peggy Knapp was Ok.
The Suzanne Eglie was a dud, and the current one (Robin Hartle) is the
worst. I think Hometime went downhill since Joanne left the show.

That's my 2cents

Sal Garcia
PicoRivera,Ca.
salgarcia@prodigy.com


From cruel@xs4all.nl Sat Feb 15 11:51:53 EST 1997
Article: 184219 of rec.woodworking
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From: cruel@xs4all.nl (Bart)
Subject: Special offer
Newsgroups: rec.video.satellite.misc,rec.video.satellite.tvro,rec.windsurfing,rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 20:27:03 GMT
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IMPORTANT MESSAGE !!

Yes for 150 $ you can possibly buy a nice young tight boys ass for 
1.5 hours. 			
This is in a district close to Rotterdam in Holland

The boys are 10-12 years old.
They have not been used more than 1 month at the most, some are 
untouched. Most of them from Pakistan but they aren't 100% black, the 
sperm only shows better on coloured skin anyway.
For 150 $ you can use one of the boys 1.5 hours, that might not be long, 
but a 10 year old ass doesn't hold forever. You can use their mouth and 
asshole as much as the boys can take, the ones that already have been 
rented out all managed 1-2 penetrations in both the mouth and asshole. 
They are all instructed before first trip so they know how to suck, 
swallow the sperm and lick the dick clean afterwards. The assholes are 
well greased with Vaseline and stretched a bit just so they can take a 
dick. They can also massage you with oil and lick you in your asshole.

Urin stuff is not allowed, neither is SM, you must not hurt the boys, 
then action will be taken. 
What you have to do is reply fast, because we can only use the same 
address a day or two. On replying you will receive a phone number. There 
you will be given a new phone number where you can arrange the meeting. 
Money is paid when the boy is delivered. If the boy has been beaten or 
hurt more then one can do with a dick you will be held responsible 
because we promise the boys protection against rapists.
Only pure sexual use is allowed.



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:54 EST 1997
Article: 184220 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: 14 Feb 1997 18:17:04 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 26
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In article <5e0fen$dpv@news2.cais.com>, sumone@nowhere.com says...
>
>I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
>the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
>be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
>etc.
>
>Unless someone can steer me to a source or has an old chuck he will
>sell me, I have to come up with a solution for adapting the 1 1/16 x 8
>TPI shaft to accommodate a chuck.  

Lathe chucks are manufactured and machined with removable back plates
for this very reason.  You can buy a chuck with a blank (undrilled or drilled
but not tapped) back plate and any decent machine shop can thread the
plate to match your spindle.

An adaptor for the spindle is an option, but you're far more likely to end
up with a perfectly centered chuck if you go the first route.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:55 EST 1997
Article: 184221 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: clamps
Date: 14 Feb 1997 19:07:00 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5dvkmv$l5a@enquirer.corp.adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com says...
>
<edited>

>Many of us spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on things like hand 
>planes, tablesaws, duct collectors, chisels, vises, etc.. We should budget 
>accordingly for clamps. 
>
>Like some others who have posted, I've got a nice set of Bessey K-Body 
>clamps (the Gross-Stabil clones are reported to be good, too). These
>clamps are strong, the jaws are large, they are quick to adjust, they 
>don't stain your work, they don't crush your work: they're simply a
>pleasure to use. A good starter set for furniture making would be 2 each of 
>the 12", 24", 30", and 40" sizes. Yeah, we're talking well about $250 in 
>clamps, but I easily use them more than I use my $325 chopsaw. 
>
>Forget any clamp with a swivel jaw tip. If you've got any kind of angled
>work, the clamp will slip off anyway. For angled work, handscrews are
>the best I've found - or cut wedges for your parallel jawed clamps.
>
>- Bennett Leeds

Good advice, Bennett.  I confess to still using pipe clamps for gluing up
panels, but only the 1" size.  3/4" pipe gets bent out of shape far to easily
when you torgue the clamps.  And whenever possible (whenever the capacity
needed is less than 24"), I always use bar clamps.  I'm sort of partial to
old style steel clamps like those made by Hartford Clamp and Wetzler.

Personally, I'm generally content with swivel-pad clamps... at times I find
them far more useful than fixed-jaw clamps.  The swivel pad allows you to
apply the pressure at a slight angle, which you can use to advantage when
you're having trouble getting pieces to line up perfectly.  Skew the clamp
slightly, and as you apply pressure, the parts will squish around sideways
as the clamp tries to square itself.

Swivel pad clamps are, however, a total pain in the butt when you, for example,
need to clamp something with the clamp vertical, and want a pad or caul
between the swivel pad and the work. Unless you attach the pad or caul to the
swivel pad with double stick tape, it invariably the falls off just about the time
you have things lined up perfectly...


-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From sway@mailmasher.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:56 EST 1997
Article: 184222 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:27:58 -0800
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From: sway <sway@mailmasher.com>
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Comments: Please report abuse to abuse@mailmasher.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Aligning and Beefing up JET Bandsaw
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>As an aside, when I did my initial check on wheel planarity a couple of
>years ago, I determined that a 1/8" washer was needed. I did the
>installation, and then found out the shim had to be removed because I had
>done the check incorrectly. :-(

Funny how the exact same thing happened to me. If it wasn't for the
fact that I found the search for a 3/4" bore washer (ended up buying
a 3/4" drill bit and making my own) more of an adventure than a
hassle I'd be more pissed at myself.

So far, out of box wheel alignment on my Jet BS has been fine.
What I now have to address is beefing up the table to allow
resawing of even moderately sized logs. Anyone have any comments
on this?


Sandy Way




From jep@physics.purdue.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:57 EST 1997
Article: 184223 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How Flat should my Delta 34-444 table be?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 19:18:12 GMT
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In article <Chuck-1302971328290001@kaynine.wildrice.com>, Chuck@nospam.com says...
>
>
>I got out my feeler gauges and it appears that if I hold the edge 
>flat on the right side of the insert hole, I can slip a .015 feeler
>in easly and .020 fits roughly. This is using a 12 inch edge from
>my combination square.
>
>If I move the straight edge in front of the insert hole and measure 
>again, the table is so flat I cannot measure any deviation. Should 
>I return the saw or is the a normal result of having an insert hole 
>cut into the table? -Chuck- 

Is this top cast iron?  If not, the insert hole is probably die cut, which might
explain some of the depression around the insert hole... which is not to
say that it's okay, but might indicate that all saws of this model will likely
be the same.  There is no reason a machined insert hole should have this
depression.  A 0.015" depression is pretty serious in my book, and is
almost certainly going to cause problems with cutting small pieces -- probably
not a problem for a contractor working with 2x lumber and plywood, but for
any kind of serious woodworking, a definite quality and safety problem.

I'd recommend calling Delta's engineering offices (I think they're in Tupelo),
and asking if this is normal.  If not, they will make it right.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
-----------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...



From cavalier@iaonline.com Sat Feb 15 11:51:58 EST 1997
Article: 184224 of rec.woodworking
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From: cavalier@iaonline.com (Cavalier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:24:57 GMT
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I'll check the top wheel's alignment; thanks for the info!

In article <01bc1a3b.3f1896e0$cb9e09ce@horizons>, jhparkhill@sihope.com says...
>
>The problem more likely is in the alignment of the wheels, moving them out
>further will not alleviate the problem. I'm not sure about your model, I
>have the Jet 14", so things could be quite different. However there is
>sometimes a tilting adjustment on the top (idler) wheel that helps set
>tracking. Also, while I don't have an exact answer to tensioning, some
>adjustment there might help.
>
>Traditionally, both wheels should be "co-planer" i.e. be parallel.
>
>



From mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu Sat Feb 15 11:51:59 EST 1997
Article: 184225 of rec.woodworking
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From: mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:15:06 GMT
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Sal Garcia (salgarcia@prodigy.com) wrote:
: IMHO, Joanne was the most credible of the 4. Peggy Knapp was Ok.
: The Suzanne Eglie was a dud, and the current one (Robin Hartle) is the
: worst. I think Hometime went downhill since Joanne left the show.
: 
: That's my 2cents

Wow I guess I'm really in the minority here.  Although I agree Suzanne
was no good I think Robin is the best of the bunch.  Oh well...so much
for personal opinion.

Mike

-- 
Mike Buening 
Dept. of Chemistry and Biochemistry
University of Notre Dame
mbuening@argon.helios.nd.edu        http://www.nd.edu/~mbuening


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:00 EST 1997
Article: 184226 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brad Nailers ...  What size do I need?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:34:43 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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haubert@mbi.org writes
> In article <32FD7F85.1895@mc.net> Dan Krueger <dkrueger@mc.net> writes:
> >Hanging doors with a 18ga brad is NOT recommended!  You should always
> >use a minimum of a 16ga!  The coating, while great for "pull-out"
> >strength, does nothing for shear strength.  Doors just endure too much
> >movement for a brad of that diameter.
> 
> So you use more of them, no big whoop.  If you have an 18g nailer, and don't 
> have a 16, then you use the 18.
> 
> Personally, I use trim head, square drive screws.  That way I can take them 
> back out to adjust if I have to (yeah, I'm anal about hanging doors).  I 
> place most of the screws where the stop will go, so I need not worry about 
> puttying over the heads (yeah, I also make my door frames and stops.  Goes 
> back to that anal thing).

I've recently hung two entry doors that I built. I didn't even bother with
trim heads - just full on square drive wood screws. I used what is known
as a "hidden stop." Ugly ascii cross-section art follows:


                                OUTSIDE

         _________________                        _______________
________|_________________|_                    _|_______________|_______
                    |    | S|                  |S |   |
                    |    | T|                  |T |   |
                    | J  | O|                  |O | J |
                    | A  | P|                  |P | A |
    WALL            | M  |__|__________________|__| M |       WALL
                    | B  |                        | B |
                    |    |                        |   |
                    |    |          DOOR          |   |
____________________|____|________________________|___|____________________
         |______________|                           |______________|
                  

The door swings inwards. The casing on the outside of the house completely
covers the jamb and some of the stop, which extends from the outside face
of the door to the outside face of the exterior wall. Thus, it appears as
if there's no stop. 

This makes for a very clean look (which fits with the Arts & Crafts style
of the woodworking in my house). It also lets me screw the jamb to the studs
with impunity as long as I stay in the area covered by the stops. In the 
area covered by the door, I've used long screws through the hinges (holding
the hinge to the jamb through the wedges into the studs), and long screws
that are covered by the latch plate. I've found this to hold a hardwood
jamb very well, but the addition of the interior casings will further
strengthen the jambs.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:01 EST 1997
Article: 184227 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:18:30 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org writes
> A unisaw is currently $1600, I think.  PM and General are a little bit 
> more.
> I can't recommend a newbie to buy this level of saw, though, unless you have 
> enough money to take the loss if woodworking ain't your cup of tea.

On the other hand, this level of saw has excellent resale value.


> Another disadvantage of the 3HP cabinet saws is that they are potentially 
> more dangerous - which would be of concern to someone inexperienced.  
> Kickback is more likely to cause injury, since a standard CS will 
> frequently stall before it sends the piece flying.

I mostly disagree. Yes, contractors saws are less powerful, but the only
safety advantage they really have is that they use motor weight to tension
the drive belt, which can slip if it has to. That said, I think many
contractor saw owners here can report on successful kickback occurances.

The guards on the cabinet saws, bad as they are, are better than the
guards on the contractors saws (exceptions will occur, I'm sure).


> I would recommend a CS level saw, especially the Delta and Jet.

This is a good recommendation. As Rich says, they are good saws, but
they also have reasonable resale value should you decide to either
quit the hobby or upgrade to something better. The world reknown Tage
Frid used a contractors saw for decades to produce some of his best work.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:02 EST 1997
Article: 184228 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:12:59 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org writes
> In article <3302055E.1111@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> Paul Worth  
<pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> writes:
> >ob.ww:  I'm using Formby's "Tung Oil Finish" on a cherry night
> >stand I just finished.  It's very thin and easy to apply, yet
> >builds up to a nice sheen remarkably fast.  It's also nice to
> >use something that recommends the palm of your hand as an applicator.
> 
> Thanks for the tip, Paul!  I have a bottle of that stuff sitting on the 
> shelf that I bought real cheap.  Haven't used it yet, but I'll have to try 
> it.  I'm wondering how water resistant the results will be.

Just like any other oil/varnish mix. In a Rodale ad for some Shop Tip book,
Flexner is quoted as saying that you can duplicate Formby's and other wiping 
varnishes simply by thinning a varnish - nothing about adding oil mentioned.

That means it's like any other varnish, except that since you're wiping 
it on (and off) you're putting on thinner coats so the coating isn't as
thick and therefore not as durable.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From extree@erols.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:03 EST 1997
Article: 184229 of rec.woodworking
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From: extree@erols.com (Bill Day)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need plans: Single bunk w/ desk below
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:14:05 GMT
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trinvest@ccom.net (ChrisLaBelle) wrote:

>Looking for some plans to construct a bunk/desk combo. At approx eye
>level is a single bunk, then below the bed is a desk and can add some
>bookshelves to set up a sleep/study combo. Any
>ideas/directions/insights would be appreicated. Thx in advance
>
Hmmmm..and what part of this were you planning to turn on your
lathe???.Be careful of cross-posting to the wrong newsgroups...


From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:04 EST 1997
Article: 184230 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: 14 Feb 1997 22:18:15 GMT
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You can learn more about the HTC guard by calling HTC direct.  They are
out of Michigan.  My local machinery dealer gave me the number from a
mobil base sales brochure.  I too like my HTC Brett Guard because it's
very easy to use and doesn't require that bump to raise it,  Plus it
actually holds the wood down.  The splitter included with the guard is
great too. I actually like this splitter since it helps hold my work
against the fence.  I bought mine from Tar Heel Distributing in NC?  I
paid $417 delivered.




From threewhlrd@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:05 EST 1997
Article: 184231 of rec.woodworking
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From: threewhlrd@aol.com (Threewhlrd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saws-Grizzly vs. Craftsman
Date: 14 Feb 1997 22:22:46 GMT
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If you run the 1 1/2 HP on 220v you'll have no problems.  My Bridgewood 1
1/2 HP Marathon Motor doesn't slow down a bit using 220v, however, it did
slow when I had it wired 110.  

I'd go with a Grizzly w/ Beisemeyer fence or the Bridgewood.


From john_scheffel@sj.hp.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:06 EST 1997
Article: 184232 of rec.woodworking
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From: John N Scheffel <john_scheffel@sj.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clamps
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:22:31 -0800
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> what do you people think about the jorgensen (sic) i beam
> shaped steel clamps?  i realize the jaws are not much longer
> than the pipe clamp jaws.
> 

I have not used these, but after years of using pipe clamps,
I bought some of the Bessey I-beam clamps.  They have them
at the local Home Depot at a pretty good price.  They are 
not as fancy or expensive at the K-body clamps, but are 
a pleasure to use compared to pipe clamps.  They are
lighter, and easier to adjust.  The jaws are about 2-3 inches
deep and have plastic pads on them.  
  
John Scheffel


From aht@mail.bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:07 EST 1997
Article: 184233 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For Sale: Bessey clamps
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 01:32:11 GMT
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Sorry... I just couldn't resist. (big grin)

P.S.   To Kevin, the person just starting out that asked the question
about clamps - if you have to put so much "torque" on a clamp as to
bend it to glue up panels, the problem is not the clamp.

Al


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:52:09 EST 1997
Article: 184234 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk (Jeff Gorman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 09:09:39 GMT
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StanR wrote:

~  .............................................. make a kerf
~  splitter. Put it into the shop-made insert.

I'm sorry to have to disagree, but a splitter fixed to an insert (ie
the loose item surrounding the blade) is unlikely to be sufficiently
firmly fixed to be a sound idea.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:52:10 EST 1997
Article: 184235 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff@millard.demon.co.uk (Jeff Gorman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:33:31 GMT
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David Roseman wrote:
  
~  ...................... I heard that OSHA requires a guard to
~  float on the workpiece, but haven't gotten around to researching it
~  myself.

Try:
  
OCIS Gopher Menu Part O  

gopher://gabby.osha-slc.gov:70/11/.osha_std/.cfr_1910/.subpart_O

This was the address when I last looked some time ago. 

Standard Number 1910.213 (b) (5)

(c) Hand-fed ripsaws   .............................. The hood and
mounting shall be arranged so that the hood will automatically adjust
itself to the thickness of and remain in contact with the material
being cut, but it shall not offer any considerable resistance to
insertion of material to saw or to passage of the material being sawed.
The hood shall be made of adequate strength to resist blows and
strains incidental to reasonable operation, adjusting, and handling,
and shall be so designed as to protect the operator from flying
splinters and broken saw teeth. It shall be made of material that is
soft enough so that it will be unlikely to cause tooth breakage.
................ etc.

1010.213 (c) (2)

(2) Each hand-fed circular ripsaw shall be furnished with a spereader
to prevent material from squeezing the saw or being thrown back on the
operator. The spreader shall be made of hard tempered steel, or its
equivalent, and shall be thinner than the saw kerf. ........... The
spreader shall be attached so that it will remain in true alignemnt
with the saw even when either the saw or table is tilted.  
...................... . The provision of a spreader in connection
with the grooving, dadoing, or rabbeting is not required. On the
completion of such operations, the spreader shall be immediately
replaced.

It should not be for a Brit to comment on American regulations,
sensible though they appear, except to say that from what I can gather
>from  previous threads, it is the floating aspect of the crown guard
(hood), especially when starting a cut that frustrates some users, and
bad alignment of the splitter that causes problems. The former seems
difficult for the user to correct, but it seems that with a bit of
effort, badly-aligned splitters should be correctable or the OSHA regs
pointed out to the supplier.

Mabye the regs only apply to industrial situations, but presumably
manufacturers must envisage the use of their equipment in workplaces.

UK regs are similar, though crown guards need not float, but the
lowest portion must be fixed no higher than 1/2" above the workpiece,
if memory serves correctly. To repeatedly do this when odd-jobbing
with variety of material size, (as most amateurs seem to do) requires
enormous self-discipline, so though I personally think that an
adjustable, but correctly located guard might be better, the American
reg seems to take human nature better into account.

Use the gopher folks and read all of it. It might be worth the effort.

I think that if you remove the last two directories from the address
you should have the main gopher index, though I haven't checked.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
jeff@millard.demon.co.uk


From calley@dlcc.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:11 EST 1997
Article: 184236 of rec.woodworking
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From: calley@dlcc.com (Chris Calley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: experience with Arbortech?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:46:54 GMT
Organization: Diamond Lane Communications Corp.
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Has anyone used the Arbortech wood carving blade with your angle
grinder?  I would be interested in your opinions of this tool.  I
build mandolins that require delicate carving of maple, but have been
looking for a way to remove wood in the early phase of the carving
procedure. Thanks in advance.

-Chris
 
--
Christopher A. Calley,   Software Engineering
Diamond Lane Communications Corp.
1310 C Redwood Way   Petaluma, California  94954
<calley@dlcc.com>    (707) 792-2946



From williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu Sat Feb 15 11:52:12 EST 1997
Article: 184237 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ron Williams <williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 16:44:38 -0600
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> sumone@nowhere.com wrote:
> >
> > After owning it for almost 20 years, I  now have my Oliver
> > Patternmaker's lathe operational.  It is a Model E53 and is powered by
> > a Watson 1/2 HP, 220 v Direct Current motor.  The motor case is
> > stamped "Oliver" so I suppose the windings were done by Watson.  Best
> > guess is that it was built sometime between 1895 and 1920, the
> > approximate year AC current was introduced to my area of the country,
> > though it is possible that it was made for the US Navy to be used
> > aboard a ship using DC power.
> >
> > I operate it on 220 v AC through a rectifier and control speed by
> > means of a rheostat.  The lathe headstock is the motor.  The armature
> > shaft is hollow, has a No. 2 Morse taper on the inboard side and a one
> > and one-sixteenth, 8 TPI threaded shaft on the outboard end.
> >
> > The inboard shaft (where the No. 2 MT is located) is also threaded
> > with a 1 1/16 x 8 TPI.
> >
> > I am anxious to equip this lathe with a 3- or 4-jawed chuck.  Here is
> > the problem:  No one seems to sell a chuck of this size.  They seem to
> > be available only in 1/4-inch increments, i.e., 1", ;1 1/4, 1 1/2,
> > etc.
> >
> > Unless someone can steer me to a source or has an old chuck he will
> > sell me, I have to come up with a solution for adapting the 1 1/16 x 8
> > TPI shaft to accommodate a chuck.
> >
> > Since the shaft is hardened and since one would have to completely
> > disassemble the motor to weld up the shaft and recut it to 1 1/4" or
> > larger I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions.  Perhaps I could
> > have an adapter made to fit 1 1/16 and step up to 1 1/2.  Any
> > suggestions will be appreciated.  Even more would be info from anyone
> > else owning this lathe and their solution to the odd-sized shaft.
> >
> > I do not know if my E-mail address will show up on this notice but if
> > it does please do not use it as I am having trouble with my mail
> > program and will probably not receive any E-mail messages sent. Please
> > reply to the rec.woodworking group with a posted notice.  Forgive the
> > verbosity but it seemed neccessary to explain the situation.

Are you sure it's 1-1/16th, and not 1-1/8th?  A friend just bought his second 
Oliver - this one sounds like yours, except someone modifided the motor - pulled 
out the windings, and replaced the shaft with a new one threaded 1x8.  They cut a 
hole in the motor housing and ran a belt to a new motor.

His old machine, also an Oliver, was threaded 1-1/8th.  He got it at an auction at 
my school, and along with it came a set of machine drawings for most everything 
Oliver sold to the school - lathes, jointers, etc.  If you'd like, I'll see if he 
still has them, and post a list of the drawings.

Good luck with the big iron!

RKW


From bennett@adobe.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:13 EST 1997
Article: 184238 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Selection
Date: 14 Feb 1997 21:53:55 GMT
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Paul Diggins; Former ACS writes
>     I've been wondering. It seems that most bandsaw reviews that I have
> read tend to pick a catagory, then rate the saws based on these
> criteria. This is normally a good thing, but when it comes to the wide
> range of prices for bandsaws I don't think this is a reasonable way to
> rate the saws.

Well, no-one said the reviews were intended to give the reader a bottom
line "this is best." Last time someone did a comprehensive bandsaw
survey (AWW), they got bashed to death in this newsgroup. Too bad, since
it was a good review.


>     You probably see where this is going. The Grizzly products are so
> much cheaper that you can get a much larger saw, and from the looks of
> things a better saw for less.

What look of things? Catalog specs? Color pictures? 

No way can you evaluate saw quality from a catalog. The Grizzly saws may
be good for the money, but no way are you getting more saw for less money.


> If I want to spend $600 - $700 on a new saw and I allocate that much..will 
> it really bother me if I get a saw that is larger than I need since it will 
> still do all that I want to do?

There are always trade-offs, but there isn't nearly as big a size
difference between the saws as you apparently think. A couple inches of
throat width is no big deal. More of a big deal is resaw capacity, and
here the 15" General and 16" Grizzly can't be fitted with a height
extender.

About the only exception to the size is the Inca 310 bandsaw, which is in
this price range. A 10.5" wheeled saw, it's very accurate, but small, and
its resaw is also limited to a bit over 6".

When you step up to the over $1K range you get into one-piece cabinet style
bandsaws with balanced cast iron wheels.

But, for choosing a saw, you'll need to think about what you want to use
it for, and evaluate them based on that criteria.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From Tom Hamilton            frogman@mnsi.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:14 EST 1997
Article: 184239 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Hamilton            frogman@mnsi.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Question on Bench grinder & burning.
Date: 14 Feb 1997 08:54:28 -0800
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In article , schaper@ix.netcom.com says...
>
>In <19970212195401.OAA04797@ladder01.news.aol.com> hackwood@aol.com
>(Hackwood) writes: 
>>
>>I have a 8" bench grinder with a 8"x1" pink Norton stone (fine). The
>>grinder runs at 1725 rpm. I set my plane irons on the Veratis jig and
>do a
>>quick light pass then dunk the iron into ice water with each and every
>>pass. The edges still turn blue. The stone has been trued with a
>diamond
>>point.
>>
>>Is there any way I can slow the grinder down like you can with those
>>attachments you add onto routers?  I'd like to run the grinder a lot
>>slower to avoid the burning.  TIA.
>>
>>Weasel (tm)
>>
>>"I have something to say: It's better to burn out, then to fade away"
>>
>There is a device that can be used to slow equipment down by reducing
>voltage. It's called a VariAC. I've seen them for sale used several
>times at reasonable prices. It is a box about the size 4"x4"x4" and has
>a cord with plug. The box has a dial for setting variable voltage and a
>female socket to plug you equipment cord into.
>I bought one that would handle a 15 amp buffer all day. Also note that
>paint buffing is done best at 1500 rpm or less to avoid heat buildup,
>the slower the better. 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Scenario:

6" Grinder, Identical wheel, motor turns at 3450 rpm.....

Wolverine grinding jig.

Almost all the chisels I sharpen are used in Lathe work and are mainly
Sorby or Henry Taylor HSS  (High speed steel)... Gouges, Scrapers etc...
A slight  blueing of the cutting edge is acceptable as HSS is much more
forgiving temperwise...
Theory: double the speed, use a lighter touch???

If the tools being sharpened are carbon-steel there will be more bluing.

Cheers:

Tom                                    "The True North"


From frogman@mnsi.net             Tom Hamilton Sat Feb 15 11:52:15 EST 1997
Article: 184240 of rec.woodworking
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From: frogman@mnsi.net             Tom Hamilton
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How often do you do it?
Date: 14 Feb 1997 08:32:06 -0800
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In article , BOB says...
>
>Private wrote:
>> 
>> Bradley A. Stolzer wrote:
>> >
>> > In a message dated 97-01-27 06:52:57 EST, Druckerman@worldnet.att.net (Dave
>> > Druckerman) writes:
>> >
>> > << > I'm curious how often the non-professionals among you out there are down
>> >  > > (or out) in your shop:  frequency, and duration at a shot.  My wife
>> >  > > occasionally rags on me (could be worse), and I'd like to know where I
>> >  > > stand in the distribution.  Me?  Well, it comes in fits and starts, but
>> >  > > probably averages out to about between 1 and 3 evenings per week, 3-4
>> >  > > hours at a shot, plus about 4-8 hours per weekend.
>> >  >
>> >  > 1 to 2 evenings a week, for about 20 minutes a shot. Mebbe 2 hours, on a
>> >  > good weekend. Most woodworking done while ostensibly taking out the trash,
>> >  > and getting "lost" in the garage. This past weekend was a notable
>> >  > exception, when I got about 5 total hours. Nearly completed something,
>> >  > imagine that.
>> >  >
>> >  > O'Deen
>> >   >>
>> > 2 evenings per week, 2-3 hours per evening, plus 3-4 hours on weekends.
>> >  Greatest disappoinment in life:  having the evening to do woodworking, but
>> > too tired to do it!!
>> 
>> If I'm really into a project then I spend about five hours a night,
>> three nights a week in the shop.  On the weekend I will spend an entire
>> day in the shop, then make sure that I spend the other day doing things
>> with my wife, um-err, live-in girlfriend.  She is very tolerant of shop
>> time if I'm making something for her, like a jewelry box or new bathroom
>> cabinetry.  I'm going to have a difficult time convincing her that my
>> next project, a boat, is for her though ;)
> Keep call the boat by your wifes(girlfriends) name, tell her it has
>really great lines just like her. IT WORKED FOR ME!
>
>                                           BOB
>
>P.S.   don't ever refer to it as "SHE or HER" they don't like the
>compation.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
At 3 score and 10 + I have an understanding with my bride of 44 years
that works like a charm.
Joan spends as much time as she likes playing Euchre, Pepper, Bridge and 
attending bingoes, and I get to spend my time either in the
shop, mostly  woodturning or in front of this computer..

Words of wisdom for the guys approaching my age>>>>>>>.

>From  twenty to thirty if you live right,
It's twice in the morning and twice at night.

>From  thirty to forty, if you still live right,
You cut out the morning but keep up the night.

>From  forty to fifty it's just now and then,

>From  fifty to sixty it's God Knows When,

>From  sixty to seventy, IF you're so inclined,
D'ont let fool you pal, it's all in your mind................

Cheers:

Tom Hamilton


From mfrazier@rmi.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:16 EST 1997
Article: 184241 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Frazier <mfrazier@rmi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Just finished a large maple workbench
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 15:52:31 -0700
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Steve Rehrauer wrote:
> 
> >
> >I think you'll need a bigger bench for that 767. ;D
> >
> >Anyhow, that's not so huge - some 18th century cabinetmakers had 16' benches.
> 
> Ignore him, Chris.  You go right ahead and call that behemoth of yours
> "huge".  (I know I and my in-progress, 6' long x 2' wide bench will. :-)

You know what they say about woodworkers who need big tools... :-)


From bchristoff@eastech.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:17 EST 1997
Article: 184242 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Christoff <bchristoff@eastech.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 18:29:03 -0500
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Rick Harding wrote:
> 
> I recently bought a ShopSmith DC after seeing it at one of there road shows
> at the local mall.  I bought the SS because I have a SS 510 that I have
> been very happy with and new that the hoses/etc. would connect up without
> needing any adapters.  I also liked the compact design, ease of mobility,
> and how quiet it ran.  About a week and a half after arrival, I
> accidentally sucked up a cone shaped piece of plastic about 2" in diameter,
> well the machine made a terrible noise and began vibrating like mad.  I
> opened it to remove what I thought was going to be the trapped piece of
> plastic and discovered that the object had busted out two of the PLASTIC
> fan blades.
> I think this machine will be going back to SS.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
> collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
> has good suction and runs quietly.
> 
> <rlhardin@ingr.com>

I recently purchased the Jet DC650, 650 CFM, 1hp. dust collector.  I use
it with my planer, jointer, benchtop sanding center, and band saw.  The
item works well, but if your shop requires more than 10 to 20 feet of
hose, you may want to upgrade to something with more CFM (i.e. 2HP
model)  Good luck.

bchristoff@eastech.com


From mike@eco.twg.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:17 EST 1997
Article: 184243 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:22:33 GMT
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In article <5doshm$4dg@camel2.mindspring.com>, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide) took the time to say:
>r*white@enternet.com.au (Rick White) wrote:
>
>;In Australia, we buy timber in metric sizes.
>;In the USA woodworking magazine articles wood sizes are quoted in,
>;what appears to me, to be an indefinable code.
>
>;Example: In the Dec.'96 issue of American Woodworker there is an article 
>;about Douglas Fir.  It says that its thickness is available in 4/4 
>;through 16/4.

>;Maybe it's a secret code that *only* Americans are allowed to know
>about. 
>;;-)
>
>I cant imagine why you Austrians adopted a french measurement system ,
>you do speak a kind of English down there dont you? so why all this
>meter stuff ? I suppose you all have aspirationsof being somewhat

Well, I for one am an American who would *love* it if we'd adopt this
world-wide standard.  Science and medicine in the U.S. adopted it decades
ago, since it is *MUCH* *MUCH* simpler and easier to work with than the
hodgepodge of measurements we've inherited from our non-technological
ancestors.

Everything in the metric system is based on 10s.  Different sized units are
multiples, or divisions, of 10 from the adjacent unit, and the name tells
you where you are in the scale world (if you speak a little latin ;^).

For example, the standard unit of measure is the meter.  It started out as
1/10,000,000 of the distance from the north pole to the equator through
Paris, but it was long ago changed to a large multiple of the frequency of
light emited by Krypton-86, so it can be generated anywhere (with the right
equipment).  Anyway, you've got this meter thing, which is about half an arm
span.  Divide it up into 10 pieces and you have decimeters (deci means "1
tenth").  Divide a decimeter into 10 parts and you have a centimeter (centi
means "1/100"), or 1/100 of a meter...about the width of a thumb or
fingernail.  Divide a centimeter into 10 parts and you have a millimeter
(milli means 1/1000).  Simple, huh?  If you want to convert centimeters to
meters, just shove the decimal point over two spots and you're done.  Try
converting inches to yards in your head sometime...not as easy is it?

Going the other way you just multiply by 10.  10 meters is a decameter (deca
means "ten").  10 decameters is (something I forget, since it isn't used
much), and 10 of those is a kilometer (kilo for 1000).

Quick!  How many inches in a mile?!?

While you work that out I'll figure the centimeters in a kilometer. 100
times 1000 is?  Right, 100,000.  Done.

A more practical comparison?  Ok, I'm removing a bolt with a socket set. 
The 9mm is a little too small.  What's the next size up?  Right, 10mm.

Now I'm doing the same job, but with english measurements.  The 5/16" socket
is a little too small, what's the next size up?  Depends on the socket set,
but probably 3/8".  I don't know about you, but I got from 9 to 10 a lot
easier than I got from 5/16 to 3/8...

Just to bring this back on topic, I was reading a british router magazine
the other day (my wife brought home a *pile* of woodworking mags from what
must be an outstanding bookstore she found! :^).  I was startled at how
*clean* the plans were and how easy it was to read all the measurements. 
They were in metric.  In millimeters.  All over the plans the dimensions
were shown as "10", "24", "126", etc. rather than things like '1 5/8"',
'3/8"', and '23 15/32"'.  *MUCH* easier to read, and much harder to
confuse...especially if you are scaling something up or down.

Give me metric any day!

>             hope you can deal with a friendly little jab      mjh  

Hope the info is useful.  I know you were kidding, but, come on people! When
are we going to crawl out of the middle ages and switch to a system that was
designed to be rational, simple, logical and easy to use?!?

-- Mike "weight and volume are the same pattern and prefixes..." Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
"Imagine the appeals, dissents and remandments, if lawyers had written The
Ten Commandments" -- Harry Bender
------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From mike@eco.twg.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:18 EST 1997
Article: 184244 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:24:02 GMT
Organization: The Wollongong Group
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In article <19970211072801.CAA16709@ladder01.news.aol.com>, wiblovely@aol.com took the time to say:
>Now the you, an Aussie, has broken our secret American code you must
>surely know the we are going to have to shoot you !!!  [GRIN] .
>
>Maybe some bright guy or gal could explain to us why a 2 x 4 x 8 (i.e. 2
>inches by 4 inces by 8 feet) is really 1-1/2 inches x 3-l/2 inches x 8
>feet ?  Note that the width and thickness are both reduced but not the
>length ?

Lumber doesn't tend to shrink much in length, and they don't plane the ends
after drying...the 2x4 part is the rough cut dimension unless you want to
pay a lot extra for "dimension lumber".

               -- Mike "I'd rather make my own" Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
Government studies show that a 7% unemployment level is acceptable to 93% of
the people.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From bchristoff@eastech.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:19 EST 1997
Article: 184245 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Christoff <bchristoff@eastech.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rec.crafts.woodturning -- Can't find it
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 18:41:49 -0500
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Roger Wiegand wrote:
> 
> In article <5dlugo$igl$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>, Jim Jackson
> <72406.3433@CompuServe.COM> wrote:
> 
> >I can not find rec.crafts.woodturning either.  I am using
> >Compuserve for this newsgroup.  They do not seem to update the
> >newgroup server or I am missing something.
> >         Jim J.
> >
> >--
> 
> r.c.w is alive and well, I'm happy to report with lots of activity. Ask
> your service provider to add it to your service and make sure your full
> group list has been updated recently. Altavista or the news service at
> zippo.com:
> 
> http://drn.zippo.com/news-bin/wwwnews?rec.crafts.woodturning
> 
> --
> Thanks,
> Roger
> 
> mailto:rwiegand@i1.net

The 'Tool Crib' catalog carries Jet as well as Delta products and at
some of the lowest costs I've seen in more than 20 mail order
woodworking cataloges.  Good luck.

bchristoff@eastech.com


From hackwood@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:20 EST 1997
Article: 184246 of rec.woodworking
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From: hackwood@aol.com (Hackwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Just finished a large maple workbench
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:42:59 GMT
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I've got problems extremely similar to yours; uneven wood. I hand-picked
rough sawn maple from the mill that looked great. Ripped the planks on the
table saw into 2.5" widths. Put the pieces on stickers for a few months
(got occupied with other things). Looked at the wood again. Twisted in
every direction. (Wood was kiln dried and now has 6% moisture). If I were
to have made it completely square, I would have lost half the wood.
Solution: Didn't even bother. Bought epoxy by the gallon and slow
catalyst. Put the wood through the Performax sander with 24 grit sandpaper
(these are the instructions; you want the epoxy to mechanically adhere to
the wood unlike yellow glue where you want a glass smooth surface). In
some cases, I used a scrub plane to groove out a channel down the center
of each strip and hand sanded the groove with 24 grit sandpaper to ensure
that there would be plenty of epoxy in place after clamping. Following
instructions, I wet the boards with just the mixed epoxy (no thickening
agents yet). Then I made another batch of epoxy with silica thicking
agent. I added silica until I had peanut butter consistency (again, per
instructions). Let the wet epoxy sit on the board for about 30 minutes or
so to soak in, then added the 'peanut butter' epoxy and spread it
thoroughly. Finally, I clamped the living daylights out of it with a lot
of 'C' clamps until there were no space inbetween the boards. Some epoxy
seeped out, but the majority stayed put. Let it dry for 2 days then
unclamped. BTW: Using slow catalyst in a cool basement gives you a huge
open time. 

I'm also using 1/2" dowels as added insurance. I put deep grooves in the
dowels and soaked to dowels with epoxy and pounded them in. Used an 18"
drill bit.

As far as making the top flat, I'll let a shop do that for me. They claim
they can get it .001" flat across the 32" width. To save shop time
($45/hr), I'll have the top as flat as I can reasonably make it with a #7
plane but I ain't going to go nuts.

I'm planning on mounting the top to the base with just 2 screws in the
center of each support. This should allow for any movement.

Weasel (tm)

"I have something to say, it is better to burn out then it is to fade
away"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
I've just completed a large (13-1/2 foot x 35 inch x 3-1/2 inch thick
maple top on a Douglas fir base) workbench. The top consists of 3-1/2
inch x 1-3/4 inch x various length maple boards glued face-to-face and
had to solve several problems along the way (built many jigs):

1. How to rip straight boards that didn't have straight edges to start
with (and not melt my 1-1/2 hp tablesaw motor!);

2. How to avoid end gaps on 3-1/2 inch wide boards butted together (in
case of imperfectly square cuts or imperfectly straight boards);

3. How to glue up such a large assembly without the glue drying, or all
dripping out before I get the clamps in place;

4. How to clamp a 13 foot x 3-1/2 inch thick tabletop;

5. How to ensure the front of the bench is as straight as possible;

6. How to mount the tabletop to the base, allowing for wood movement;

7. How to make such a large top as flat and level as possible;

8. How to get all eight legs bearing equally on a slightly uneven garage
floor

I'm new at this (woodworking and newsgroups!) but would be happy to
share anything I've learned/discovered in the process.

By the way, I want to build an airplane someday - thus the huge size of
the bench.




From tgowler@on.bell.ca Sat Feb 15 11:52:21 EST 1997
Article: 184247 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Gowler <tgowler@on.bell.ca>
Subject: Help-Electric Branding Irons
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Can anyone help me with information on where to find an Electric
Branding Iron suitable for wood.  Preferably a Canadian supplier but
North American will do.  I have already contacted Lee Valley Tools but I
am looking for someone who can do a custom one for me. 
If anyone can help, I'd appreciate an E-Mail to tgowler@on.bell.ca

Thanks a lot
Tom


From sgs8r@virginia.edu Sat Feb 15 11:52:22 EST 1997
Article: 184248 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!usenet
From: "Stephen G. Strickland" <sgs8r@virginia.edu>
Subject: Re: Routers: Freud 2000E vs. the others?
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Bennett Leeds wrote:
> 
> "Randolph M. Jones" <rjones@eecs.umich.edu> writes
> 
> > Why are all the "good" 3HP routers around $280-$300 but the Freud only
> > around $200?
> 
> Freud's not alone: Ryobi's 3 HP plunger is in the $200 ballpark.
> 

I got my 3HP Ryobi about 7 years ago and have been very happy with it.
It has a large adjustment knob which makes it easy to set the depth
above or below the table (though occasionally it sticks briefly if I
haven't used it for a while). It also came with a pretty nice straight
guide, a circle guide, and 1/4" collet insert. And the collet has none
of the bit-release problems people were complaining about here some
years back (in old PCs, for example). I haven't seen any features on
other machines to make me regret my choice, though I haven't done a
detailed survey lately. I have a number of Ryobi tools (the 10" planer,
sliding compound saw) and I think they are have been excellent
value---perhaps a hair below the best-in-class, but much cheaper. 

It is rather heavy, which makes it hard to rout with minimal base
support, but I suppose there's no way to build a 3HP router that can
work like a laminate trimmer as well.

-Steve


From willyj@sunherald.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:23 EST 1997
Article: 184249 of rec.woodworking
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From: willyj@sunherald.infi.net (Will Jordan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scroll Saw Blades
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 17:09:58 -0600
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I just got a new Delta Scroll Saw. I need some help with blade selection.
There seems to be a large selection of blades available ie Reverse tooth,
Special heavy ,Double Tooth,Precision Gound,and Spiral.
Question   To the experienced scroll user  If you had to select 2 or 3 blades
what would you select?? Thanks  Will Jordan


From bchristoff@eastech.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:24 EST 1997
Article: 184250 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Christoff <bchristoff@eastech.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood by mail
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 19:00:34 -0500
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Erik Pedersen wrote:
> 
> The mail order mills sometimes have some pretty great deals on hardwoods.
> Anybody have much experience with mail order wood. Good luck, bad luck?
> Thanks


I have been happy with my mail order wood products.  Some mail order
wood sources include shipping in the per board price which can be
benefiical depending on quantity

bchristoff@eastech.com


From bchristoff@eastech.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:25 EST 1997
Article: 184251 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Christoff <bchristoff@eastech.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How fancy a table saw?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 18:57:41 -0500
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Paul in MO wrote:
> 
>         I am trying to decide just how nice of a table saw to buy.. I am a
> newcomer to the hobby, but expect to get into it deep, if history is any
> indication. Also, I run towards the perfectionist (read, anal
> retnentive?), for what it's worth.
>         Now, reading some posts here, one would get the impression that
> anything less than a $2000 saw won't really be satisfactory in the long
> run for the serious hobbyist, who wants to make nice cabinetry, etc. Do
> you agree? Why?
>         I am looking at the Jet JWTS-10PF for about $550. It looks well
> made (certainly a nicer fence than the Delta 34-670), and a good saw for
> the money. I can also get it with the 50 inch extension for $720 (at
> Lowe's). How useful do you find the extended fence, or do you consider it
> a nice but not necessary luxury?
>         I am trying to sink enough money in this saw so that I won't
> regret my purchase in future years, but at the same time not go overboard
> $$$$!. Thanks for any advice.

I purchased the Delta 10" Contractor's saw and have been very happy with
the purchase.  I have sawn anthing from standard 3/4" hardwood to 2 1/2"
thick oak without any problems.  Of course, the 2 1/2" oak took a little
more time and patience.  The 1.5hp motor works fine for most of my
furniture building.  I read most of the other replys and agree with a
majority of them.  I was a log like you when first researching the
possibilities.  I almost purchased a $1600 Delta cabinet saw, but
decided to go with a contractor's with a Beismeyer Fence.  I built the
side table top myself out of oak and have a great appreciation for the
workmanship.  Also, the saw doesn't take up that much space.  I paid
approximately $680 for it from a mail order catalog called 'Tool Crib'. 
I checked atleast 10 other mail order catalogs and all of the local
hardware stores carrying large equipment, even the large ones (HQ, Home
Depot).  Tool Crib beat all of them by atleast $50.  If you are
interested in more information let me know.

bchristoff@eastech 
or
pedlpwr@thepoint.com

Good luck


From gptash@concentric.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:26 EST 1997
Article: 184252 of rec.woodworking
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From: Grant <gptash@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.video.satellite.misc,rec.video.satellite.tvro,rec.windsurfing,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Special offer
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Bart wrote:
> 
> IMPORTANT MESSAGE !!
> 
> Yes for 150 $ you can possibly buy a nice young tight boys ass for
> 1.5 hours.
> This is in a district close to Rotterdam in Holland
> 
> The boys are 10-12 years old.
> They have not been used more than 1 month at the most, some are
> untouched. Most of them from Pakistan but they aren't 100% black, the
> sperm only shows better on coloured skin anyway.
> For 150 $ you can use one of the boys 1.5 hours, that might not be long,
> but a 10 year old ass doesn't hold forever. You can use their mouth and
> asshole as much as the boys can take, the ones that already have been
> rented out all managed 1-2 penetrations in both the mouth and asshole.
> They are all instructed before first trip so they know how to suck,
> swallow the sperm and lick the dick clean afterwards. The assholes are
> well greased with Vaseline and stretched a bit just so they can take a
> dick. They can also massage you with oil and lick you in your asshole.
> 
> Urin stuff is not allowed, neither is SM, you must not hurt the boys,
> then action will be taken.
> What you have to do is reply fast, because we can only use the same
> address a day or two. On replying you will receive a phone number. There
> you will be given a new phone number where you can arrange the meeting.
> Money is paid when the boy is delivered. If the boy has been beaten or
> hurt more then one can do with a dick you will be held responsible
> because we promise the boys protection against rapists.
> Only pure sexual use is allowed.
THIS IS FUCKING SICK!
I HOPE THE LAW FUCKS YOU UP THE ASS!!!!


From jbos@niia.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:27 EST 1997
Article: 184253 of rec.woodworking
From: "Jim" <jbos@niia.net>
Subject: Thin Panel Glue-up
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Does anyone know of a good technique for gluing up thin panels? I am making
a humidor and need to glue a panel approx 10" x 16" using thin strips of
1/4 Spanish Cedar to minimize twisting of the liner.  Any suggestions will
be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any help
Jim


From mike@eco.twg.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:28 EST 1997
Article: 184254 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:39:32 GMT
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In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>, "Abacab" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca> took the time to say:
>pretty much the world.  The American's have been fighting about changing
>officially for years now, as they always tend to believe whatever they do
>is the best, but it's also their pride and joy American muscle cars with
>the big 5.0 plaques on the side.

Ummm...excuse me, but that "5.0" *is* metric.  It's liters... ;^)

>About the system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre of water
>weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar comparisons
>for lengths.

1 lire of water is only 1kg if it's at 4 degrees C....though you probably
won't notice a difference with household equipment.

             -- Mike "just trying to be precise!" Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
"640K ought to be enough for anybody." -- Bill Gates '81
------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From who@whatnot.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:52:29 EST 1997
Article: 184255 of rec.woodworking
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From: who@whatnot.co.uk (John Luby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good ideas for "TOOLS NOT FOR LOAN!" signs?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:11:52 GMT
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On Thu, 13 Feb 97 19:13:09 -0500, Carroll <ichabod@delphi.com> wrote:

>John Luby <jluby@globalnet.co.uk> writes:
>>My own notice for discouraging borrowers is:
>         Real men own their own tools

John Luby wrote nothing of the kind. No harm done, but would
ichabod@delphi.com take care to use his OWN address when posting??


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:30 EST 1997
Article: 184256 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A question of netiquette in rec.WW
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 18:47:45 -0500
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Sorry Bennett - that's why you put on 'multiple' coats, to build up the
finish so that 1) it's durable 2) comes closer to the surface for shine.
Bennett Leeds wrote:
 
snip 
> That means it's like any other varnish, except that since you're > wiping it on (and off) you're putting on thinner coats so the coating > isn't as thick and therefore not as durable.


From bugs@sadust.hill.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:31 EST 1997
Article: 184257 of rec.woodworking
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From: Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: For Sale: Bessey clamps
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 18:51:59 -0500
Organization: Takes all the fun out of it !
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Al's right - if you're bending the clamp there's definitly something
wrong with your joint. You only need enough glue and pressure to get an
even squeeze-out the entire length of the joint. It doesn't even need to
be the entire joint - but this would provide max. bonding of course.
Then again it depends on what the joint has to hold on how critical it
is.
Al Taylor wrote:
>  
> P.S.   To Kevin, the person just starting out that asked the question
> about clamps - if you have to put so much "torque" on a clamp as to
> bend it to glue up panels, the problem is not the clamp.


From northern@netrover.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:32 EST 1997
Article: 184258 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Paul Kotyk" <northern@netrover.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail order to Canada...
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:49:05 GMT
Organization: Netrover
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I might add that you do pay GST no matter where the item originates. My
preference would be to purchase locally on nationally befor going the
international route. Less headaches should warranty problems arise.

Regards Paul

   
Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca> wrote in article
<32FF1480.3CB1@sympatico.ca>...
> Darren King wrote:
> > 
> > Does anyone have any experience mail ordering tools from companies
> > like Tool Crib to Canada?  They have free shipping to the contigous
> > 48 states but what would something large cost to get shipped
> > up North?  Also is there duty or tax involved?
> > 
> > The prices in american dollars would be worth it but would it
> > still be worth it if I had to add shipping and / or tax?
> > 
> > Alternatively, is there a Canadian mail order company that
> > deals with large tools like table saws or band saws?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Darren King, BreakPoint Design
> Tool Trend from Concord, Ontario is a large tool shop that provides a
> catalogue and ships Canada wide or to the US, phone 1-800-387-7005 to
> request their current catalogue or House of Tools from Edmonton, Alberta
> ships Canada wide and to US, phone 1-800-661-3987 to request their
> current catalogue.  Another supplier in Canada is Busy Bee Tools in
> Toronto who ship all over the country but I don't have their phone
> number at my finger tips.  I teach cabinetmaking at a college and have
> dealt with all of these companies.
> 
> If a product is made in the US (Delta) for instance, you don't pay duty
> coming to Canada, but if it is made off shore (Japan, etc.), then you
> pay duty coming into Canada.  Hope this helps.
> 
> Henry from Kingston
> 


From hdsherwin@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:34 EST 1997
Article: 184259 of rec.woodworking
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From: hdsherwin@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shopnotes... Worth buying the set?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 00:45:09 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <199702122212.RAA03142@posthost.netusa1.net>, Scott Post <spost@NETUSA1.NET> writes:

>It depends on what you want to do.  I dropped my ShopNotes subscription
>after the first year because the stuff they built bordered on the
>ridiculous.  They seemed to go to extraordinary effort to come up with
>unnecessary jigs and fixtures.

When they built a jig to hold a jigsaw upside down I felt they hit a new low, but this month they spent ~$150 + labor to build a drill press sander which, for a few more bucks, you could by a dedicated spindle sander. But then maybe creativity in woodworking articles has reached the same point it has in music.

Doug Sherwin


From hdsherwin@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:34 EST 1997
Article: 184260 of rec.woodworking
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From: hdsherwin@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: 15 Feb 1997 00:45:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <5e2kkq$7o0@news.nd.edu>, mbuening@darwin.helios.nd.edu (michael buening) writes:

>Wow I guess I'm really in the minority here.  Although I agree Suzanne
>was no good I think Robin is the best of the bunch.  Oh well...so much
>for personal opinion.
>
>Mike
>
I'm with you, Mike. Robin is doing a credible job as far as I'm concerned.

Doug Sherwin


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:35 EST 1997
Article: 184261 of rec.woodworking
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From: mtcowboy@marsweb.com (Mike G.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: testing Free agent
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:27:19 GMT
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test


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:36 EST 1997
Article: 184262 of rec.woodworking
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From: mtcowboy@marsweb.com (Mike G.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: testing free agent
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:27:20 GMT
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test


From wscott1678@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:37 EST 1997
Article: 184263 of rec.woodworking
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From: wscott1678@aol.com (WScott1678)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: LIGHT HOUSE
Date: 15 Feb 1997 00:50:18 GMT
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HI ALL,
I AM DESPERATELY LOOKING FOR PLANS TO BUILD A LIGHTHOUSE (10-15 FT HIGH)
TO PUT ON MY POND.

I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP IN THE MATTER.

THANKS

TRAVIS SCOTT
KEARNEY, MO
Kathy
Friends are the flowers in the garden of life.


From laurel.i@pemail.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:38 EST 1997
Article: 184264 of rec.woodworking
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From: laurel.i@pemail.net (laurel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I season black walnut?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:07:31 GMT
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Here in the Northwest you need to season walnut for one year per inch
of thickness. Then finish in a drier.


wenzel@cc0112.pd9.ford.com (Donald T. Wenzel) wrote:

>I just had a Black Walnut tree removed, and found someone to rough saw
>the main trunk into planks for me.

>I know I need to set it aside to dry for awhile (about a year?) before
>I can use it and I'd appreciate any tips people might have.

>I have a garage and basement available for storage.  The house has both
>a humidifier and dehumidifier so I have some rough control over humidity.

>Thanks in advance.  I'm looking forward to drooling over several hundred
>board feet of black walnut when it arrives in a week or two.

>Don




From joe.fleming@sandiegoca.ncr.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:39 EST 1997
Article: 184265 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe Fleming <joe.fleming@sandiegoca.ncr.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathes
Date: 14 Feb 1997 23:50:15 GMT
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Len,

You may not be aware, but a new newsgroup specifically devoted
to turning exists.  It is located at:

               rec.crafts.woodturning


While many readers of this newsgroup are woodturners, you will
be addressing a more specific audience in the other group.

Joe


>==========len, 2/12/97==========
>
>Hi:
>
>With all due respect to those who feel this kind of inquiry is 
>inappropriate for this newsgroup, I disagree:  I've gotten some
valuable 
>tips, and I've occasionally tried to provide same.  So--I would 
>appreciate advice on lathes.  I want to do both outboard and inboard 
>turning, up to ab. 3', and I like solid, well-made machines. 
Thanks for 
>your help.
>
>Len
>




From kenst@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:40 EST 1997
Article: 184266 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Stovesand <kenst@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 20:18:35 -0500
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Mike [insert quote here] Bartman wrote:
> Well, I for one am an American who would *love* it if we'd adopt this
> world-wide standard....since it is *MUCH* *MUCH* simpler and easier to work with than the
> hodgepodge of measurements we've inherited...

You know, I have heard since grade school (early 60's) how everything
was going to be metric and how great it would be.  Here is my
observation as to what it has become:  (1) we now have a mix of english
and metric (buy 2 liter soda bottles and fill up the car with 12.5
gallons of gas) -- (2) I now have to have a box of tools that includes
both english and metric sizes (all mixed up - the only way to help sort
them out is that the sockets have little ridges around the outside), and
(3) I have to remember the engine displacement of all my old cars in
both liters and cubic inches.  Just this past week I wanted a starter
for my '85 Accord and the auto parts guy asked if it was the 1.8 liter
-- no problem I thought - but I opened the hood and it was in cubic
inches!  I was scrambling to convert!!  

Sorry to ramble but I contend that it is the effort to convert to metric
that has given us this "hodgepodge of measurements"  -- we inherited a
nice, consistent measurement system and our folly is to believe that we
can ever completely convert.  In the meantime, I will continue to plane
wood on a planer marked "200 mm" -- progress?

Regards,

Ken S.



From landofoz@bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:41 EST 1997
Article: 184267 of rec.woodworking
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From: Somebody in Landofoz <landofoz@bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The Router Workshop on PBS
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 20:25:40 -0800
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Jack A. Zucker wrote:

> It's a Hitachi M12V 3.x HP, variable speed, plunge router. I have one
> just like it except mine has the martian-green body. Apparently, Hitachi
> was not interested in sponsering the show so they try to disguise it.
> It's a tribute to the Hitachi that they didn't just do as Norm does and
> use whatever the sponser dictates !
> 
> -Jaz
> 
> --
> >
 	Actually, it is a Hitachi M12V.
But I had the opportunity to talk to the Rosendahls and got the whole
story.
It seems that when they first began using the router, they had it
painted yellow for visibility, and the fact that it went well with their
yellow (at that time) shirts.
When Dewalt came out with thier line of yellow tools, Bob and Rick
needed a new color. The Ford dealer in their town had a Truck in their
lot painted this color. They liked it and bought a supply of this paint.
If Bob was just telling a story, it sure was a good one. 
BTW, these guys are better in person than on TV.
                                      
-- 

Tin Man
landofoz@bright.net

Procrastinate NOW!

"If a cluttered desk is the sign of a cluttered
 mind, what is the sign of an empty desk?"


From wilythek@netnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:42 EST 1997
Article: 184268 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bill Kap..." <wilythek@netnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears new saw & fence
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 19:22:15 -0500
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Any one have any experience with the new table saw and fence from Sears?


From davidy3031@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:44 EST 1997
Article: 184269 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Yoho" <davidy3031@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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While I must admit I like using Danish oil finishes on certain projects, I
have to wonder why anyone uses the Watco finishing wax instead of regular
paste wax. I was never able to get much of a shine with it. I have found
plain old Johnson's paste wax or Bri Wax works much better and can be
removed easily if needed. I was also under the impression that you couldn't
build layers of wax since the addition of a new coat just dissolved the
previous coat and left a thin layer after buffing.

I also don't believe that table was a good candidate for an oil finish. It
looks great on walnut but offers little to no protection on a surface like
this table. The point I'm trying to make is, I think there's a time to
finish with oil and a time to use another type of finish that would offer
more protection and make more sense. Please don't take offense to this, it
just an observation worth about $.02.

David

Termite <bugs@sadust.hill.com> wrote in article
<33039F48.1B4E@sadust.hill.com>...
> haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> snip
> >  I'm
> > wondering how water resistant the results will be.
> > 
> > Rich
> Rich,
> Both the Tung Oil (which is really a varnish) as well as Danish Oil
> finishes all have some resistance to water. Alcolhol (sic) is another
> story. In any case with any of these hand applied oil finishes you need
> to apply a wax coat to in order to provide better protection.
>  
> Heres the biggest down side, and it might never effect one of your
> projects. Oh by the way, I don't believe there's a nicer finish anywhere
> than the soft finish. High Gloss is OK if that's what you want, a finish
> that is ON TOP of the wood and not in it. It has it's place, it depends
> on what type of environment the project is going to be placed in.
> 
> Any way - the down side. I made a table for our eat-in portion of the
> kitchen. It's bar height (40") 6' long and 42" wide. I started out with
> 1 1/2" stock and ended up with 1 3/8" on the final product. It's made
> from Walnut and is ABSOLUTLY BEAUTIFUL ! Seats 6 bar stools with
> upholsted barrel backs with wood arms and feet to match.
> I don't know how many coats of oil I have on it (many - not less than 5
> and not more than 9) and about 4 coats of wax. 
> Now - when something HOT is placed on the table it has an effect on the
> finish. Fortunatly since I've been using this type of finish for years I
> knew this would happen. The finish takes on a LIGHT HUE where the hot
> item was place. If someone makes toast and puts it on a paper plate and
> places it on the table you will be able to see the outline of the bread
> !! WOW you might say, me too. This effect is really only in the WAX coat
> and I believe that if you used a HARDER wax that you might not see this.
> But then again - if you're into a HARD finsh use a brush or spray on. 
> SO - after a while (maybe once a year or two, or when the mood strikes
> me and I can't stand it any longer). I simply REAPPLY the Watco wax.
> Problem solved - all marks and traces are gone.
> One of the REALLY nice things about the Danish oils is that a NEW
> APPLICATION will break down old layers of wax. You can use the netural
> oil and therefore not contine to darken the wood. Except we all know
> that anything that touches wood (especailly dark woods) tends to make
> them darker already. 
> Enjoy you rub finish ! It's the only way to go in my book.
> 


From nuanda@testengeer.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:45 EST 1997
Article: 184270 of rec.woodworking
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From: nuanda@testengeer.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Suggestions for Sears Table-Saw Insert?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 01:40:04 GMT
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On 13 Feb 1997 18:28:46 GMT, djs2@well.com (Donald Stern) wrote:

>Neil,
>
>I have an old Sears TS and made a couple of zero clearance plates out of 
>plywood and they work just fine.
>
>Don
>
>Neil asked-for-it Gieselman (giese012@maroon.tc.umn.edu) wrote:
>: I have one of the older Sears tablesaws (about 6 years old).  On these
>: saws, Sears decided to make the table insert thinner than a lot of the
>: other companies out there.  Does anyone have suggestions on what
>: material to use to make a zero-clearance plate for these machines?
>: Bill.
>:  (real address is bmackin at netins.net)
Ply wood won't work on these models of saw. The plates are only about
3/32 thick. Two layers of formica, or a pc of aluminum are both good
choices.


From peterson@205.252.116.10 Sat Feb 15 11:52:46 EST 1997
Article: 184271 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peterson <peterson@205.252.116.10>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: keyless chucks
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 20:53:09 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 18
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Scott216 wrote:
> 
> I beleive drill chucks are pressed onto a tapered shank.  Look at the
> chuck you purchased; is the hole tapered?  To remove the chuck, I think
> you either need some sort of wedge(s)  made for this purpose, or a wheel
> puller.
> 
> Scott Goldthwaite
> Portland, OR
> Go for it, it's later than you think!

I recently put a keyless chuck on my DeWalt 3/8 in VSR, but didn't keep
the packaging.  However, what you do is put the key in the current chuck
and whack the whole thing in with a hammer to loosen the old chuck.  The
replacement chuck should have directions.  It was easy and my life is
better now.

Steve


From bugs@bunny.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:47 EST 1997
Article: 184272 of rec.woodworking
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From: bugs@bunny.com (Stev)
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Subject: Re: Need plans: Single bunk w/ desk below
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>Try looking at some of those sunshine books they sell at HD and HB, 
>they have a few on kids furniture, thats where I got my ideas so far.

Pardon me, those are 'sunset' books. Not sunshine.

stev




-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From nuanda@testengeer.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:47 EST 1997
Article: 184273 of rec.woodworking
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From: nuanda@testengeer.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Q:  How to Repair Broken Chair Seat?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 01:46:12 GMT
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On Sun, 09 Feb 1997 10:14:08 -0800, bandrew <bandrew@eaglequest.com>
wrote:

>I am not sure if this is the proper newsgroup (if not, can someone
>direct me the right way?), but my next project is to reglue the chairs
>of our dining roo0m table.
>
>The chairs are about 30 years old, never been repaired (I inheritied the
>dinig room set from mom and dad).  A good portion of the joints on the
>legs are loose and in need of cleanup and re-gluing.  That part I can
>handle, where I am running into problems is with one of the armed
>chairs: the seat is cracked thru the joint where the front, verticle,
>arm support meets the chair seat.  The seat is ablut 1 1/2 inches thick
>and made of pine (Ethan Allen).  The edges of the cracked wood are
>rough.  The chair is still intacked, but I need to fix it before it
>falls completely apart.  How do I do it?
>
>bb
>Britt
>bandrew@eaglequest.com
You'll have to take the chair apart. If they are really old, they are
probably glued with hide glue. You can get this apart with hot water
or steam. If the have been glued with a yellow or white glue, we in
our shop have had good luck with a syring full of rubbing alcohol into
the joint. Then clean the cracked joint, reglue and reassemble the
chair. Good luck. We fight this problem 6 or 8 time a month ( getting
chairs apart that is) Charlie of CNL Woodworks    


From tkjulius@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:48 EST 1997
Article: 184274 of rec.woodworking
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From: tkjulius@aol.com (TKJULIUS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RIP SAW ONE MAN PORTABLE SAWMILL
Date: 15 Feb 1997 01:55:19 GMT
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Has anyone had any experience with Better Built Corp.'s portable sawmill? 
I've seen their video tape and have a question on how well the blade
tracks.  Secondly, is it durable?  Any, other recommendations?


From davidy3031@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:49 EST 1997
Article: 184275 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Yoho" <davidy3031@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which D Handle Router
Date: 15 Feb 1997 02:00:41 GMT
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Dave Peritt <peritt@mail.med.upenn.edu> wrote in article
<5e22fr$f9d@netnews.upenn.edu>...
> I have the PC and love it..... I am thinking of putting under a table
> should I get a different base and screw it into the table or will the D
> handle fit under the table??

Dave,  I have a PC 691 that I use all the time. I built a table and
installed a separate base so I could just take the motor out of the D grip
base and slide it into the base mounted under the table. This would
probably be your best course of action because I don't think the D handle
fits under there too good or makes good sense.

David


From mkbco@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:50 EST 1997
Article: 184276 of rec.woodworking
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From: mkbco@aol.com (MKBCO)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: homemade router table
Date: 15 Feb 1997 02:22:30 GMT
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Almost every "BASIC/beginners" router book I've ever picked up has plans
(simple or complex) for building your own router table.  Home depot and
Sears usually have a rack of books in the tool department that you can
browse.


From gmayer@uconect.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:51 EST 1997
Article: 184277 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gerald Mayer <gmayer@uconect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 21:10:31 -0500
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American lumber has always been sold by nominal rough cut size. 
However, the finished sizes have gotten smaller.  When I bought framing
lumber to build my house 30 years ago, the finished thickness was 3/8"
under and the finished width was 1/4" under.  Now, the finished
thickness is 1/2" under and the finished width is also 1/2" under.  Has
wood changed its basic properties in 30 years?  I suspect that the mills
are cutting the rough stuff thinner and narrower to maximize the yield
>from  a log.  The amount of material removed going from rough to finished
hasn't changed.

Back in the good old days, 3/4" plywood was 3/4" thick.  Now it is
23/32" thick.  Do they sand it more now to give the consumer a better
finish?  No way!  The reduction in thickness gives the wood
manufacturers an extra 3-5% profit from the veneer they get from a log. 
I'm certainly not going to stop buying wood, but somehow I feel cheated.

Gerald


From aht@mail.bright.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:52 EST 1997
Article: 184278 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.bright.net!news
From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thin Panel Glue-up
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 05:39:21 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <33052ea5.191456356@news.bright.net>
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On 13 Feb 97 13:29:54 GMT, "Jim" <jbos@niia.net> wrote:

>Does anyone know of a good technique for gluing up thin panels? I am making
>a humidor and need to glue a panel approx 10" x 16" using thin strips of
>1/4 Spanish Cedar to minimize twisting of the liner.  Any suggestions will
>be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks for any help
>Jim

Jim,

The easiest way is to use the old wedge method of clamping. I can't
remember where I saw this but it makes glueing up thin pieces a snap.

Get a piece of flat plywood, piece of oriented strand board, or any
other flat piece big enough to hold the 10"x16" panel and a couple of
extra fixtures (say 2' x 3' - big enough for any future thin panels).
At one end of the board tack a strip of wood, (1"x1"x3') either with
brad nails or glue it to form a back-stop to hold the panel pieces as
pressure is put on them from the other side.

Cut out a few wedges, say 4" long and 1" wide at one end.

Cut a piece of 1"x4"x3' for use as a floating stop for the other side
of the panel. By floating I mean you will move it to fit different
sizes of panels.

Put some newspaper or wax paper down on the board to keep the squeeze
out of glue from welding it to the jig itself. Keep the paper on the
flat part of the board, don't let it hang over the strip on the end.

Lay the pieces down on the paper and up against the back-stop.

Move the floating stop with the wedges between it and the panel pieces
( before you apply the glue just to practice ) to a distance such that
when the wedges are tapped against each other they will force the
panel pieces against the back stop. clamp the floating stop to the
2'x3' board, and tap the wedges.........

you know....I've just looked at what I've written, and while it makes
sense to me, a picture is worth a thousand words.
I've drawn a picture in BMP format - black and white - so that anyone
with windows can see it, it's only about 59k. E-mail me if you want me
to attach it to a return e-mail.

You should apply weight to the pieces to keep them from cupping up as
you apply pressure with the wedges. Do this in a way so that whatever
you use isn't glued to the panel.

Forgive the long drawn out explanation if you are already familiar
with this method, but it is very handy.

Al


From 1562@nethawk.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:53 EST 1997
Article: 184279 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33055137.10B5@xnethawk.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:01:27 -0800
From: Dave29 <1562@nethawk.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: reliant 14" bandsaw (any good?)
References: <33049B21.7566@cs.umass.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184279

Matteo Schmill wrote:
> 
> Woodworker's Warehouse has the Reliant 14" bandsaw listed for $249 if
> I'm not mistaken. At that price, I could probably afford it !
> 
> I'd be using the saw to bookmatch 5-6" wide hardwoods and for rough
> shaping of guitar necks and bodies (typically laminates 2"-4" thick).
> 
> I'm wondering if I will end up frustrated with this saw because it can't
> do what I ask or it does it poorly. I'm not expecting a great saw, just
> one that will get me where I want.


It has been my impression tha anything made by "Reliant" is of a lesser
quality than most of the others (ie. Delta, Powermatic). This is not to
say that they sell junk, just that you should expect to have a few minor
to major hasels with ANY of the lower priced machines made by any
company. I once bought a hand plane from "Great Neck" and was proud of
my "bargain", only to find out,that when I got it in my shop that it was
going to require a lot of work to get it up to par with my "Stanley". I
now refuse to buy anything that I can't return in 30 days. If I were
considering that machine I would expect to have problems with blade
allignment, adjustment, and accesories.


From philbaby@prostar.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:54 EST 1997
Article: 184280 of rec.woodworking
From: "Phil Anderson" <philbaby@prostar.com>
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norms's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <32fffd1e.100923410@netnews.worldnet.att.net> <5dr24p$sat@dfw-ixnews12.ix.netcom.com> <33022FD2.7AD3@titan.com> <332273ba.135693300@news.aracnet.com> <5e0vlc$ahb@news.ycc.yale.edu> <330493c3.0@cfanews.harvard.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184280

Just one question...why?

Gregg Germain <gregg@ncc1701a.harvard.edu> wrote in article
<330493c3.0@cfanews.harvard.edu>...
> 
>  I use Norm's tool list as a sure indicator of the direction for me to
> go:
> 
> 180 degrees opposite.
> 
> --- Gregg
>                                       Saville
> ggermain@cfa.harvard.edu                #29 Genie
> Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics   #1762 CRIS
> Phone: (617) 496-7713                 "A Mig at your six is better than
>                                        no Mig at all."
> 


From 1562@xnethawk.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:54 EST 1997
Article: 184281 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3305566F.6A41@xnethawk.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:23:43 -0800
From: Dave29 <1562@xnethawk.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Installing small hinges
References: <19970214184601.NAA24750@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184281

Dory Joe wrote:
> 
> I am just getting into small boxes, jewlery boxes, music boxes etc.  I
> would be interested in suggestions RE: installing butt type hinges.  There
> must be some tricks to this delicate procedure.  Help appreciated.  Joe


Simply scribe a line around the hinge in place useing your utility knife
or x-acto then chisel out thin shavings until you are at the right
depth. If all your chisels are too big or you done have any you can
sharpen a small screwdriver(30degrees), it wont hold an edge like a
chisel but it works in a pinch (the yellow & black handeled ones are
throwaway cheap). Good luck!


From jim@radix.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:56 EST 1997
Article: 184282 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!supernews.com!news
From: jim@radix.net (Jim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Marc Adams Videos |||| Where can they be purchased?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 03:26:25 GMT
Organization: All USENET -- http://www.SuperNews.com
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I am looking for three videos by Marc Adams . Does anyone have an
address or phone # to obtain these?

	Thanks


From 1562@xnethawk.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:56 EST 1997
Article: 184283 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33055974.576@xnethawk.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:36:36 -0800
From: Dave29 <1562@xnethawk.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help-Electric Branding Irons
References: <3304E93B.CA6@on.bell.ca>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184283

Tom Gowler wrote:
> 
> Can anyone help me with information on where to find an Electric
> Branding Iron suitable for wood.  Preferably a Canadian supplier but
> North American will do.  I have already contacted Lee Valley Tools but I
> am looking for someone who can do a custom one for me.
> If anyone can help, I'd appreciate an E-Mail to tgowler@on.bell.ca
> 
> Thanks a lot
> Tom


The Woodworkers' Store catalog has them. Call 1-800-279-4441 for a
catalog.


From mccoy@plhp002.comm.mot.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:58 EST 1997
Article: 184284 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!feeder.chicago.cic.net!ftpbox!mothost.mot.com!news-in.cig.mot.com!plhp302!mccoy
From: mccoy@plhp302.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (John McCoy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help - Care of Railroad Ties
Date: 13 Feb 1997 18:43:11 GMT
Organization: Motorola Cellular Infrastructure Group
Lines: 38
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <5dvnbv$jms@trotsky.cig.mot.com>
References: <33031160.48A3@inlink.com>
Reply-To: mccoy@plhp002.comm.mot.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: plhp302.comm.mot.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184284

In article <33031160.48A3@inlink.com>, "/\\/\\arshall \\/\\/atts" <watts@inlink.com> writes:
|> I own a home in St. Louis that has some railroad tie walls in
|> the back of it.  My real estate agent said they were the good
|> ones, real ones, not some of the new ones that don't last.
|> My question is, I heard they use to soke them in creosote.
|> I've also heard you can't get it anymore because of health or
|> enviromental reasons.  What can I use to maintain these things?
|> The creosote made them look black tar like, which I would like
|> to maintain if possible.

If they're real railroad ties then yes, they're soaked in creosote.
And yes, you can't get creosote because it is a carcinogen.

As for maintaining railroad ties, they'll last for 60 to 90 years,
if they're kept dry.  The railroads go to a lot of trouble to
pile up rocks ("ballast" for the RR literate) to set the ties in,
to keep them out of the dirt.  Once the ties get in the dirt and
stay wet, they'll rot out in about 10 years.

In your case you're probably using them as a retaining wall to
hold dirt where you want it, so you're stuck.  They'll rot out
>from  the back regardless of what you do to "maintain" them.
The fronts should stay fairly dark without attention (RR ties
are made of Oak, if they're real ties, which tends to go
black naturally).  Once they start to rot you could call the
RR and try to buy a few new ties (I believe creosote is still 
allowed in industrial applications) to keep the same look - 
expect to pay around $120 per tie.  O'course, if you don't plan 
to stay in the house for 10 years you wouldn't have to worry :-)

John

(thinking cinderblocks probably sound attractive about now)
********************************************************************************
John McCoy                                mccoy@plhp002.comm.mot.com
                                          excp01@email.mot.com
Motorola Inc Radio Products Group
8000 W Sunrise Blvd Plantation FL 33322


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:52:58 EST 1997
Article: 184285 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do I really need my BLADE GAURD ?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 19:45:16 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <3305314C.FDB@california.com>
References: <32F6A28C.4511@mis.net> <32F6F42C.5F42@california.com> <44de995747@millard.demon.co.uk> <5dndnj$3n7@netnews.upenn.edu> <3301A146.1DE2@california.com> <19970214.090939.49@millard.demon.co.uk>
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Jeff Gorman wrote:
> 
> StanR wrote:
> 
> ~  .............................................. make a kerf
> ~  splitter. Put it into the shop-made insert.
> 
> I'm sorry to have to disagree, but a splitter fixed to an insert (ie
> the loose item surrounding the blade) is unlikely to be sufficiently
> firmly fixed to be a sound idea.
> 
> Jeff

If your insert is loose, you have a wores problem than no blade guard.
The insert should be tight in place (mine's secured with a machine
screw) and should be "zero clearence". 

To have it otherwise is hazardous, in my opinion, and should be tended
to.

Stan


From ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:52:59 EST 1997
Article: 184286 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!not-for-mail
From: Frank Timpano <ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 10:35:08 -0800
Organization: none
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3304B02F.21DF@richmond.infi.net>
References: <01bc1957$c5a97ec0$4b3378cf@rharding.airnet.net>
Reply-To: ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net
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To: Rick Harding <rharding@airnet.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184286

Rick Harding wrote:
> 
>snip snip
> Does anyone have any experience with a JET, Powermatic, Woodtek, etc, dust
> collector that they would recommend.  I would like to have a 110V unit that
> has good suction and runs quietly.
> 
> <rlhardin@ingr.com>

I have the 2 hp Grizzly unit with two bags.  Heavy steel impeller eats
all types of wood chips and small pieces with no problem.  I run it on
220 volts, never checked if it would run at 110 volts. I'm very
satisfied with the unit.


From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:00 EST 1997
Article: 184287 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 03:58:20 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 127
Message-ID: <5e3bn2$9os@camel1.mindspring.com>
References: <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au> <5doshm$4dg@camel2.mindspring.com> <5e2s3q$9f8@scoop.eco.twg.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184287

mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman) wrote:


;hodgepodge of measurements we've inherited from our non-technological
;ancestors.

Our non-technical ancestors? I suppose those are the ones that founded
the country and introduced the very handtools that we use today , the
very same ones that gave us the battle tank the swing wing aeroplane
the angled flight deck the jet engine the only supersonic passenger
aircraft and invented the programmable computer in WW11 which you are
currently using ,are those of which you speak ?

;Everything in the metric system is based on 10s.  Different sized
units are
;multiples, or divisions, of 10 from the adjacent unit, and the name
tells
;you where you are in the scale world (if you speak a little latin
;^).

;For example, the standard unit of measure is the meter.  It started
out as
;1/10,000,000 of the distance from the north pole to the equator
through
;Paris, but it was long ago changed to a large multiple of the
frequency of
;light emited by Krypton-86, so it can be generated anywhere (with the
right
;equipment).  Anyway, you've got this meter thing, which is about half
an arm
;span.  Divide it up into 10 pieces and you have decimeters (deci
means "1
;tenth").  Divide a decimeter into 10 parts and you have a centimeter
(centi
;means "1/100"), or 1/100 of a meter...about the width of a thumb or
;fingernail.  Divide a centimeter into 10 parts and you have a
millimeter
;(milli means 1/1000).  Simple, huh?  If you want to convert
centimeters to
;meters, just shove the decimal point over two spots and you're done.
Try
;converting inches to yards in your head sometime...not as easy is it?

;Going the other way you just multiply by 10.  10 meters is a
decameter (deca
;means "ten").  10 decameters is (something I forget, since it isn't
used
;much), and 10 of those is a kilometer (kilo for 1000).

;Quick!  How many inches in a mile?!?

;While you work that out I'll figure the centimeters in a kilometer.
100
;times 1000 is?  Right, 100,000.  Done.

;A more practical comparison?  Ok, I'm removing a bolt with a socket
set. 
;The 9mm is a little too small.  What's the next size up?  Right,
10mm.

;Now I'm doing the same job, but with english measurements.  The 5/16"
socket
;is a little too small, what's the next size up?  Depends on the
socket set,
;but probably 3/8".  I don't know about you, but I got from 9 to 10 a
lot
;easier than I got from 5/16 to 3/8...

;Just to bring this back on topic, I was reading a british router
magazine
;the other day (my wife brought home a *pile* of woodworking mags from
what
;must be an outstanding bookstore she found! :^).  I was startled at
how
;*clean* the plans were and how easy it was to read all the
measurements. 
;They were in metric.  In millimeters.  All over the plans the
dimensions
;were shown as "10", "24", "126", etc. rather than things like '1
5/8"',
;'3/8"', and '23 15/32"'.  *MUCH* easier to read, and much harder to
;confuse...especially if you are scaling something up or down.

;Give me metric any day!

;>             hope you can deal with a friendly little jab      mjh  

Why dont you try doing your drawings etc in inches and tenths as i
have for years , and then tell me whats the difference ,and for that
matter why change ?
It seems quite obvious you have not adhered to the golden rule ,ie he
who has the gold makes the rules ,and this just happens to be America
and it has settled on the imperial system .[for now at least].
                mjh

 

;Hope the info is useful.  I know you were kidding, but, come on
people! When
;are we going to crawl out of the middle ages and switch to a system
that was
;designed to be rational, simple, logical and easy to use?!?

;-- Mike "weight and volume are the same pattern and prefixes..."
Bartman --

;==============================================================================
;| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably
didn't read  |
;| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing
is more  |
;| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
;|                                -- * * * --
|
;|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.
|
;|                       I do complain to their ISPs.
|
;==============================================================================

;==============================================================================
;"Imagine the appeals, dissents and remandments, if lawyers had
written The
;Ten Commandments" -- Harry Bender
;------------------------------------------------------------------------------




From mikehide@mindspring.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:01 EST 1997
Article: 184288 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes(Metric Makes Sense Too)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 04:02:08 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <5e3bu5$9os@camel1.mindspring.com>
References: <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au> <19970211072801.CAA16709@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca> <5e2t3k$bqm@scoop.eco.twg.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184288

mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman) wrote:

;In article <01bc185f$afcc68e0$5b85b3cf@abacab.nb.sympatico.ca>,
"Abacab" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca> took the time to say:
;>pretty much the world.  The American's have been fighting about
changing
;>officially for years now, as they always tend to believe whatever
they do
;>is the best, but it's also their pride and joy American muscle cars
with
;>the big 5.0 plaques on the side.

;Ummm...excuse me, but that "5.0" *is* metric.  It's liters... ;^)

Here we are discussing the metric system ,how do you spell it , litre
or liter [as in the line above or the one below]?

;>About the system, as I said, makes a great deal of sense.  1 litre
of water
;>weighs 1kg and freezes at 0 degrees.  There are also similar
comparisons
;>for lengths.

;1 lire of water is only 1kg if it's at 4 degrees C....though you
probably
;won't notice a difference with household equipment.

;             -- Mike "just trying to be precise!" Bartman --

;==============================================================================
;| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably
didn't read  |
;| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing
is more  |
;| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
;|                                -- * * * --
|
;|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.
|
;|                       I do complain to their ISPs.
|
;==============================================================================

;==============================================================================
;"640K ought to be enough for anybody." -- Bill Gates '81
;------------------------------------------------------------------------------





From craigt@hotstar.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:02 EST 1997
Article: 184289 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!winternet.com!n1ott.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!news1.istar.ca!news
From: craigt@hotstar.net (Craig Treleaven)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 12:49:39 GMT
Organization: One of these days...
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In article <5dqi8e$4ao@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>,
mkpopp@ix.netcom.com (Mark Popp) wrote:
>Plecostamus@fish.net wrote:
>>I see note after note asking for plans this or that. [...]
>
>I'm guessing that people who have plans they are proud of want to
>see them on the cover of a woodworking magazine; not available
>for free on the web.  For those who can't wait that long, there
>is already a site that accepts CAD plans from hobbyists or
>whoever at:
>       http://www.woodforum.com
>
>BTW, plans at this site also show up on the big list at:
>      http://theoak.com/gary/index.html

We all seem to gloss over one fact:  it is really hard to draw good plans! 
I know the 'plans' I draw are crap.  

Case in point...I just finished a 3-drawer dresser that is designed to be
used first as a baby changing table.  I used a cheap CAD program to draw a
front view.  No top or side views.  I was really interested in getting the
proportions right for the overall size, the base and the drawer openings. 
It doesn't show any joinery details.  For example, the sides are solid wood
so the drawer runners need to allow for expansion and contraction.  After
some head scratching, I decided on unglued M&T at the back of this system. 
etc...  I have several such 'plans' from past projects.  They might help
some people but create a lot of questions/frustrations for others.  Putting
them out on the Web could generate more email than I'm prepared to handle. 
Tom Gaudlin's recent posting seems to bear this out.

Developing a good set of stand-alone plans would probably take as long as
building the piece.  That is not where I get my kicks.  

Craig Treleaven




From abacab@nb.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:53:03 EST 1997
Article: 184290 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dan Hamill" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keeping up with the Norm's
Date: 15 Feb 1997 03:41:36 GMT
Organization: Independant Sales Agent
Lines: 45
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We have to face it, the world now relies on sponsorship.

I own my own sporting goods agency, and the number of requests I get a year
>from  schools, teams, associations, etc is mind boggling.  It's unfair, but
when making the decision one ultimately has to decide how much exposure my
money, time, product donation, etc will provide.

PBS needs the cash, from Delta or from us.  I don't foresee much of an
actual endorsement coming from Norm on either show, that'd be like watching
Home Again with Bob Villa.  It probably won't have to get much different
either; with the TOH magazine now available, larger advertising revenues
can be generated there.

Norm's no Tiger Woods, and I doubt Delta's giving him $50 million like
Nike, but I'm sure he's doing ok with the print ads and show appearances. 
I hope so, because I still thoroughly enjoy his show, and the motivation to
buy more tools continues to work.

Safe and happy hobbying,

Dan Hamill
-- 
Dan Hamill
Atlantic Canada

Michael Reid  <miker%oakhill@sps.mot.com> wrote in article
<5e1tli$rde@talos4.risc.sps.mot.com>...
: Ken Stovesand (kenst@mindspring.com) wrote:
: 
: : I disagree that using tools on PBS is not advertising just because they
: : avoid a certain form of slogan. Do you really think that anyone would
be
: : swayed to go buy a Unisaw if only they mentioned something like "it's
: : great"? Regardless, at the beginning they have a pretty good facsimile
: : of a commercial message for insurance, local woodworking stores, Delta,
: : etc.  Why don't these shows just go on a commercial station and give up
: : this PBS sham?
: 
: You're right to say that it is advetising but it's no different than most
: shows on PBS. e.g.  Mystery sponsored by the Mobile Corporation or Wall
: Street Week sponsored by A.G. Edwards, et. al.
: 
: --
: Mike Reid (miker@oakhill.sps.mot.com)
: 


From maltby@sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:53:04 EST 1997
Article: 184291 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ward C. Maltby" <maltby@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:13:57 -0800
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It seems people are very happy with the Jet Dust collectors. Do you know 
where you can get them in Canada and how much are they? Ward.


From dodsonjohn@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:05 EST 1997
Article: 184292 of rec.woodworking
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From: dodsonjohn@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Oliver Patternmaking Lathe
Date: 15 Feb 1997 04:12:50 GMT
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In article <3304EAD6.704@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu>, Ron Williams <williams@mhdha.moorhead.msus.edu> writes:

>Are you sure it's 1-1/16th, and not 1-1/8th?  A friend just bought his second
>Oliver - this one sounds like yours, except someone modifided the motor -
>pulled out the windings, and replaced the shaft with a new one threaded 1x8.  They
>cut a hole in the motor housing and ran a belt to a new motor.

I have an Olive lathe built in 1948 and the spindle is 1 1/8 also.  The other thing he might do is contact Oliver... although they do not make these lathes anymore, they still have parts.  Phone # is 616-451-8333.  The guy to talk to is Rich Fink.

John
DodsonJohn@aol.com or john.dodson@cantina.com


From moessy@eideti.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:06 EST 1997
Article: 184293 of rec.woodworking
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From: moessy@eideti.com (neil granholm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laser sight miter saw
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 07:30:51 GMT
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"Jay Sattler" <sattler@scd.hp.com> wrote:

>Hi Folks-
>About 4 years ago I attended a Woodcrafting show and demo-ed a miter saw
>with a laser cut line on it.  I also noticed that a certain popular
>wood-worker uses one on his TV show!  I fail to remember the
>manufacturer...  Are they still made and are there any comments on their
>reliability?!  Thanks! - Jay

porter cable usa



From abacab@nb.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 15 11:53:07 EST 1997
Article: 184294 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dan Hamill" <abacab@nb.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where is Joanne Liebler?? (Was: Re: Split the group?)
Date: 15 Feb 1997 03:58:19 GMT
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I'd think the entire show would be far better off if they could get someone
who can swing a hammer.  I know there are women out there that can.  Makes
you kind of wonder what the casting requirements were.

Besides, what's the deal on making it seem like they're a couple, with the
dinner segments, etc.  Can't we just have a man and a women who know what
their doing and talking about enlighten us on the weeks topic.

I guess I'm just jealous; I have to do my projects by myself.  I could use
a great looking partner (but I still think I'd take Tom Silva and all the
donated materials).
-- 
Dan Hamill
Atlantic Canada



From gmayer@uconect.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:09 EST 1997
Article: 184295 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gerald Mayer <gmayer@uconect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears new saw & fence
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:40:11 -0500
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The saw is OK, and the fence is world class.

Gerald


From ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:10 EST 1997
Article: 184296 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Timpano <ftimpano*@richmond.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:03:35 -0800
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charles_sampson@sra.com wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have been searching the archives in dejanews for kiln information.  I
> noticed that there were several threads about kilns and kiln plans in the
I built and operated a solar kiln for 10 years, but had to scrap it a
couple years ago due to deterioration.  Used standard stud walls with
R-11 fiberglass insulation and sheetrock inside, with a corrugated
fiberglass "window" tilted toward the sun.  Held about 1000 board feet
of 10 foot long lumber.  I used a small squirrel cage blower to extract
warm air from the peak and inject it under the pile through a series of
holes in the floor.  One problem is to to be sure to air dry the lumber
before putting it in the kiln-if not it is likely to mold or mildew.

Now I use a shed for air drying and no longer kiln dry my own.  I would
probably build another if I needed it, but would need to find another
location as the original spot has become shaded by trees...Not easy
since I live in the woods...


From bergeron@mnsi.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:11 EST 1997
Article: 184297 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michelle DeMars" <bergeron@mnsi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bisquit joiner purchase--any suggestions?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 04:20:25 GMT
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I am in the market to purchase a bisquit joiner for home use.  Which one in
your opinion is the best value for the dollar?

Thanking you in advance for your suggestions!


From DuaneHo@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:11 EST 1997
Article: 184298 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Duane Hoover" <DuaneHo@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Crown Wood Lathe
Date: 15 Feb 1997 04:23:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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At a local estate sale, I purchased a Crown wood lathe.  Does anyone know
where I could find some information about it?  

It is cast iron and has a golden emblem on the front with a crown and the
word crown.  The stand has Seneca Falls Mfg Co Seneca Falls NY on the ends.

I just replaced the drive belt.  The original leather one was broken.

What kind of lubricant should I use.  There are two fitting in the head
stock.  Do I put grease or oil in these?

It is also missing the crank on the tail stock.  It looks like it has been
missing for a while, because it looks like it has been adjusted with a pipe
wrench (not bad but you can see the marks).  Can parts still be found for
this lathe?  

Please e-mail me with any information at
DuaneHo@ix.netcom.com

thanks for any help




From tye1@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:12 EST 1997
Article: 184299 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gwendolyn O. Kelly <tye1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: shop for amateurs?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 04:30:34 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Hi,
I live in New York City, I am an amateur woodworker, I dont have my own shop and I'd like to find a
place to work on some of my own pieces. I was wondering if anyone knew of a shop or cooperative,
that I could belong to and work, (if I provide my own materials?) 
Thanks so much, 
Gwen Kelly


From DuaneHo@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:13 EST 1997
Article: 184300 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Duane Hoover" <DuaneHo@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Marc Adams Videos |||| Where can they be purchased?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 04:47:38 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Try www.marcadams.com

Jim <jim@radix.net> wrote in article <33052a7f.4014776@207.126.101.78>...
> I am looking for three videos by Marc Adams . Does anyone have an
> address or phone # to obtain these?
> 
> 	Thanks
> 


From CODEMAN@MRNET.COM Sat Feb 15 11:53:14 EST 1997
Article: 184301 of rec.woodworking
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From: CODEMAN@MRNET.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Refinishing Gum Wood
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 97 04:55:34 GMT
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I bought an older house and am in the process of refinishing the trim.
I believe the trim is Gum Wood.  Any suggestions on the type of finish.  Tung 
Oil, Poly etc.?

Codeman@MrNet.Com 


From loon@earthlink.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:15 EST 1997
Article: 184302 of rec.woodworking
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From: loon@earthlink.net (Terry Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood cut from limbs usable?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 21:55:57 -0600
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In article <5dqfma$otv$1@excalibur.flash.net>, Michael Brush
<ibsi@flash.net> wrote:

>In general, is hardwood cut from limbs and properly dried useful for
>woodworking projects?  Any limitations?  Courtesy of a storm, I have an
>oak limb with some 8-10 feet of fairly straight wood averaging about 8" 
>in diameter and I'd prefer not to use it for firewood if it can be turned
>into useful, small lumber. Thanks in advance.
>Mike

Any wood growing at an angle to the vertical is strengthened by the tree
with what is called reaction wood. Lumber made with reaction wood does
tend to warp since it was created in an unequal pressure situation. When
trying to finish such wood the fibers of some species become fuzzy and
nearly impossible to finish. 

Depends on what you want to do with the wood. I'd settle for articles with
a rough hewn look and where some wood movement would be tolerated. If it
is white oak you could use it for some small outdoor furniture.

-- 
 Terry Clark PA-C                   |      "The ENIAC was a Son of a Bitch 
   loon@earthlink.net             |       to program."                                        
     terry-clark@uiowa.edu      |                      -  Ms. Jennings Bakrit
      


From comfish@downeast.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:16 EST 1997
Article: 184303 of rec.woodworking
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From: Compass Publications <comfish@downeast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears manuals old
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:12:18 -0400
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Anyone know where I can come up with an manual for an old Craftsman 
planer.  I have one that's probably 30 years old, and I'd like to get 
it going.  I know I'm going to need some blades and some other misc 
parts.  Plus it sure would be good to know how it was supposed to work 
originally.  Any clues?


From explodey2@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:17 EST 1997
Article: 184304 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help!! Clamp Caddy???
Date: 15 Feb 1997 05:10:11 GMT
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On 14Feb97
jsupre53@aol.com wrote:

>I'm looking for a set of plans that was recently run in a periodical for
a
>mobil "C and Bar Clamp" caddy.  If anyone out there remembers who
>published it I would be forever thankful. 

I do remember plans for a mobile clamp caddy being published in Today's
Woodworker. I think I still have the back issue somewhere. If you can't
get hold of them e-mail me, I'll look for copy.


From kcastle254@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:18 EST 1997
Article: 184305 of rec.woodworking
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From: kcastle254@aol.com (KCastle254)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DEWALT SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAW
Date: 15 Feb 1997 05:11:05 GMT
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Saw that saw(sounds funny doesn't it) in the current issue of American
Woodworker and it was a 12" and not a 10".   Sounds like a potential
winner but I do have concerns about the over and under arrangement of
tubes concerning rigidity.  What do you think?


KLC in Beaumont, Texas


From ici1084@mail.icomnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:19 EST 1997
Article: 184306 of rec.woodworking
From: "Ed Kirkpatrick" <ici1084@mail.icomnet.com>
Subject: Ryobi TS-Survey(This is long)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Results of BT 3000 Table Saw survey.  Taken from users (1/97).  There were
eight responses.  Owners not on our email group should respond via email to
join.

HAVE   RATE   Range of Scores        Accessory 
     8	  4	     3-5	              BT3000 with stand
     3	  2.67	     1-5		Dust bag
     5	  3.6 	     3-4		Dado insert plate
     7	  3.71	     1-5		Zero Clearance throat plates
     3           1.67	     1-2		Miter Clamping Kit
     7	  3                 2-5		Router/Jig Saw Mounting Kit
     1	  4	     4		41" Long Miter Ext. Arm
     4	  3.5	     3-4		Wide Table Kit 
     1	  1	     1		Air Floatation Vacum Table
     1	  3	     3		Table Leg Set(for wide table)
     3	  3.34	     1-5		Quick fold rear table
     7	  4	     3-5		Casters (2)
     2	  4	     4		Extra table insert
1=poor; 2=fair; 3=good; 4=v.good; 5=excellent

List jigs you have built: 
-Rebuilt and extended miter fence
-Router fences. 1 tall for trimming laminates, 1 for all other uses
-Make my own zero clearance throat plates
- List jigs you have built:Frank Klaus slip joint in FWW also works for
tenons,
vertical panel raising rides on rip fence, corner spline jig for frames,
ply
used for 3' taper jig and support for cross cutting long noards.
Threw away the dust bag when started using shop vac (since replaced with
1HP DC. Used masontite to make one for the Freud blade and plan to use
3/8" Plexiglas and tap the lower holes for use with Forrest WWII (an
excellent blade!!). Bought 2 at HD instead of Ryobi ($ difference).
-Tenoning jig
-Miter fence extension
-Finger/box joint sled
-Tenoning jig
-Leg taper jig
-Enclosed bottom of cabinet with drawers

If you could change two things about the saw what would they be. 
-Built in drawer/shelving in the stand
-More accurate/sturdy sliding miter
-Make a better miter fence attachment with convenient jointing
possibilities
-Give a better blade with saw (A carbide tipped blade is very nice, but
then they piss it away with only 36 teeth).
-I know, but hey-How about a micro-adjustment for the fence.
-A drop in throat plate
-Table height adjustment for the miter and accesory table.
-Larger opening on accessory table to accomodate large panel bits when
routing
-More power (13-amp motor)
-Miter fence needs more support...has too much give.
-Improve dust capturing capabilities
-Better & faster system for mount and unmount guard
-Stronger rails for moving saw
-Longer rails, esp. on left side of blade
-Wish came with extra accessory table with miter slots in both
-Wish had the new 15-amp motor
-Miter table level with table

What is the most aggravating thing about the saw for you:
-Correcting the sliding miter and fence
-When cutting hardwood 1 inch thick stock, the anti-kickback pawls keep
jamming in the table.
-Only a 6-8 ft power cord for a portable saw this to short
-Filmsy, requires a fairly frequent amount of adjustment , awkward (0,45)
bevel stop adjustment, cumbersome blade change.
-Lack of power
-Rough adjustment of blade (up/down).
-Give in miter fence
-Low throat plate
-Dust
-The fence (need upgrade)
-Openings in the table, making work with thin stock difficult
-Star knobs on rip fence (for router table accessory) are wider than rip
fence, and therefore obstruct/hit work pieces that protrude above rip
fence height (knobs hit workpiece as it slides).
-Sliding miter table adjustment

What is the most benefical thing about the saw for you: 
-Router mount
-The fence! (rip)
-Lightweight, portable, good power,large cutting depth, accurate rip fence
-Flexible for crosscutting and ripping.
-Easy router setup
-Decent stock fence
-Portability
-Sliding miter table
-Rip fence
-Sliding miter table
-Rip fence
-Alumiun material that doesn't rust but very strong

Other comments: 
-This saw is a good value for the money. If you don't want to spend a
fortune and are a weekend woodworker.
-There are also some accesories that are available from the Ryobi
distributors and service centers that you have not listed. I know that
your list is based on what is readily available, but I think current and
prospective users of the BT3000 would be interested in hearing about
them. There is a user hardware kit available. It's about $8 from
Ryobi distributors and service centers. It's basically a bunch of bolts
and T-nuts that you can use to attach jigs or whatever to the miter and
rip fences. I've found it useful for attaching fence height extension
boards for sawing tenons, raised panel type sawing or any type of sawing
where you need to run a board on edge. There is also a rip fence
micro-adjustment accessory available. I haven't seen or used one, but maybe
someone in your e-mail list has experience that she/he would like to share.
I believe they're about $50.
-It does the job, but I want to replace it with a full on cabinet saw.
But for the price, its a good saw. Cant bitch too much about it, as in
comparing to say...a unisaw, cause it doesnt have a unisaw price.
After owning this saw, I can say I will never buy anything made by ryobi
again, solely because the throat plate on the saw sits low. Such an easy
thing to fix, yet thats the way they sell it. That fact alone has ruined
my opinion of ryobi. Plus the zero inserts I bought were bowed badly, and
also sat low.
-The accessory vacuum is a *very* good vac for the price, and in combo with
the well-designed DC port does a good job, if the vac outlet is routed to
the central dc system. In fact, it's a good value for anyone that just
needs a good shop vac, because of it's suction and large collection
capacity.

Ed Kirkpatrick - Kinston, NC

-- 
Ed Kirkpatrick - Kinston, NC


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:20 EST 1997
Article: 184307 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building a fairly large maple top bench: question
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 21:22:38 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3305481E.55E7@ix.netcom.com>
References: <33034896.5A5C@inreach.com> <5e21f7$4k1@daryl.scsn.net>  
	 <E5Lp32.KuK@apollo.hp.com> <5e28jp$eie@maze.dpo.uab.edu>
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To: "David N. Levy" <levy@uab.edu>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184307

David N. Levy wrote:
> 
> I just purchased a laminated maple "buther block" that was intended for
> a counter top and is 6' x 3'.  I intend to build a workbench around it
> that has a Record 53E vice on front and a Veritas twin screw vice as an
> end vice.  I bought this thing because I got it cheap, but it is only 1
> 3/4 inches thick.  I am thinking of attaching a piece of 3/4 inch
> plywood to the underside as a thickener, the rationale being that the
> dog holes should be deeper than 1 & 3/4" and that this will add
> stiffness and heft to the bench.  Any thoughts on this idea or other
> suggestions on how I should modify this maple top for my bench?  I
> could always buy the other 3' x 6' x 1 3/4 bench top the store had (97
> dollars) and attach it to the one I have, but that seems a shame to do.

Many benches are only 1-3/4" or less across the span or field. I suggest
you laminate an 8/4 strip onto the bottom in the area where you will
drill your dog holes. An 8/4 x 4" wide piece the full length of the
bench would be nice. And then add an 8/4 x 3 or 4" edging around all
four sides to give it some extra ridgidity (and to make it look more
impressive) and also to provide a better face on the tail vise area.
Other than that, the thickness you have should be fine.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From zeus1228@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:21 EST 1997
Article: 184308 of rec.woodworking
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From: zeus1228@aol.com (Zeus1228)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any thoughts on a decent $150-$200 router?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 05:26:00 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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i am a professional cabinetmakerand have never met another that would use
anything but porter cable. as far as i'm concerned no one else makes
routers! 
the model 690 is great- 1.5 hp -about $145.00 most places
they also make a nice 3.25 hp for $220.00


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:22 EST 1997
Article: 184309 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta bandsaw blade positioning
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 21:29:54 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
Lines: 50
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References: <5e02ee$kld@kelly.iaonline.com> <manhart-1402970840350001@manhart-quadra660.tamu.edu> <5e2gbq$f4c$1@mh002.infi.net>
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pwcnva2 wrote:
> 
> In article <manhart-1402970840350001@manhart-quadra660.tamu.edu>,
>    manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart) wrote:
> >In article <5e02ee$kld@kelly.iaonline.com>, cavalier@iaonline.com
> >(Cavalier) wrote:
> >
> >> I recently picked up the 8" Delta benchtop bandsaw, and have only one
> problem
> >> with it: the blade runs right on the forward edge of the wheels, so when
> >> backing out of a cut I often drag the blade forward just enough to pull
> >it off
> >> the wheels.
> >>
> >SNIP
> >
> >There is a tilting adjustment on this saw that controls the position of
> >the blade on the wheels.  Unplug the saw and turn the wheels by hand while
> >slowly changing the adjustment.  Once it appears to be in the proper
> >position, give it several more turns to make sure that it is going to stay
> >in the middle of the wheel.
> >
> >Good luck,
> 
> I have just purchased the 8" bandsaw, and am having the same problem.  I have
> not been able to get the wheels to align properly using the set screw, either,
>  and my blade also runs toward the front of the top wheel, though I have had
> no problems with it falling off.  I, too, would be interested in hearing
> someone who had solved the problem.  As far as I can tell, the adjustment
> screw alone will not do it.
> 
> Brad W.

Remember that when you adjust the setscrew to tilt the wheel, you are
also increasing the tension of the blade, and if the tension is high
already you may not see much alignment change. Try loosening the tension
ever so slightly as you tilt the wheel and see if it doesn't move back.
One other thing, while doing this tilt and tension adjustment the guide
blocks and rollers should be backed out and not touching the blade at
all. After the blade is tracking like you want, then adjust the guide
blocks.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From mtcowboy@marsweb.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:23 EST 1997
Article: 184310 of rec.woodworking
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From: mtcowboy@marsweb.com (Mike G.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Installing small hinges
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 05:27:58 GMT
Organization: M@RSweb Internet Services Montana
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Sorry I missed the first message, lost some software here and am just
getting things back up.

after cutting the mortices for the butt hinges as Dave  discribed
below I actually mount the hinges in the mortices then fit the top to
the box. I then mark the outside edges of the hinges in the top,
remove the hinges trace as discribed below. 

And just between you and me (and everyone else on the list) I make my
tops a smidgen oversized and disk sand them to fit after I mount the
hingest.  This eliminates any possable error when matching the top to
the bottom and mounting the hinges. I just "erase it". 


On Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:23:43 -0800, Dave29 <1562@xnethawk.com> wrote:

>Dory Joe wrote:
>> 
>> I am just getting into small boxes, jewlery boxes, music boxes etc.  I
>> would be interested in suggestions RE: installing butt type hinges.  There
>> must be some tricks to this delicate procedure.  Help appreciated.  Joe
>
>
>Simply scribe a line around the hinge in place useing your utility knife
>or x-acto then chisel out thin shavings until you are at the right
>depth. If all your chisels are too big or you done have any you can
>sharpen a small screwdriver(30degrees), it wont hold an edge like a
>chisel but it works in a pinch (the yellow & black handeled ones are
>throwaway cheap). Good luck!



From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:24 EST 1997
Article: 184311 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Loose Motor Pulleys
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 21:37:51 -0800
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I know I'm a little late on this one, and there were many good
suggestions already. But there is one other tactic that I can suggest.
Use the two setscrews as others mentioned, and set the one over the key
first. Then using a drill of the correct tap size, drill down thru the
second setscrew hole (with the screw removed first) and spot the motor
shaft with the drill point. Just drill deep enough to get a dimple the
full diameter of the drill. Then loctite the screw in place in the
dimple. Your pulley will never drift using this method. This is commonly
done of mechanical drives.


-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From tardiff@pcbuoa.enet.dec.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:25 EST 1997
Article: 184312 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Tardiff <tardiff@pcbuoa.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for a dust filtration unit?
Date: 13 Feb 1997 17:19:04 GMT
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    Here's an ultra-simple dust filter, especially
suited for demolition work outside your shop:

    Go to your favorite supply store.  Buy one of those
cheap box fans, approx. 20" by 20" by 6".  Should cost
about $15 max.  Wander over to the heating section, and
get a half-dozen furnace filters in a matching size (20x20,
I think - I can't remember the actual number right now.  Just
hold up the filter next to your box...). Cheap filters are
maybe $1 each.  Grab a roll of duct tape on the way to the
checkout.

    Take the 6 filters, stack 'em, and duct tape them (at the
corners will do fine) to the INLET side of the box fan.  Put
the fan where your dusty air is, plug in it, and turn it on.
You're done.  The air will be cleaner immediately, and visibly so.

    After a while, take off the first filter (the dirtiest) and
chuck it, and add a new clean one to the fan side of the stack,
and tape 'em back in place.  Repeat as needed.



From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:26 EST 1997
Article: 184313 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Just finished a large maple workbench
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:08:41 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Christopher Raymond wrote:

> 8. How to get all eight legs bearing equally on a slightly uneven garage
> floor
> 
> I'm new at this (woodworking and newsgroups!) but would be happy to
> share anything I've learned/discovered in the process.

> Chris

This is interesting...what did you do here?

Stan


From mckinley@canuck.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:26 EST 1997
Article: 184314 of rec.woodworking
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From: mckinley@canuck.com (Steven McKinley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: 'Workshop' Dust Filter System
Date: 15 Feb 1997 05:30:59 GMT
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In message <33046484.1055652@News> - *dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley)Fri,
14 Feb 1997 13:19:30 GMT writes:
:>
:>I am looking into putting in a dust filter/collection system into my
:>workshop and saw an add in the February Lee Valley Catalog for a
:>Workshop Dust Filter System for $349.00 (Canadian). Does anyone have
:>advice/experience on these particular units?
:>
:>
:>David
:>


Dave, funny you should mention it!! I just made my own dust filter. I was
working on a diagram from an advertisement I saw in Shop Notes. The diagram
had all the measurements and I copied them down and took my shopping list to
the store and bought all my wood. What I forgot to do was take the
measurements for the furnace filters it uses. Well I figured I'd pick these up
later.

Two days later the Lee Valley cat. comes in the mail and there is the dust
filter box advertised. They were also selling the filters seperately. I picked
up a first & and second stage filter. I then modified the design of the box
for the unit I was building and used the "real" filters for it. 

Just finished the whole thing two days ago and I'm very pleased with the way
the filters seem to be collecting. 

I figure that by makeing the box myself I saved about $200. Mind you I did get
the squirrel cage blower for only $20 from friend. Someone else figured the
motor was about 400 CFM, so quite good for my single car garage/shop.




From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:27 EST 1997
Article: 184315 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 hp plunge routers to BIG for hand held work??
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:16:15 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Dave Scholten wrote:
> 
> I'm about to buy one router for my shop.  I would like the Freud FT2000E, but
> I'm concerned that it will be TOO BIG to handle.  Is this basically the
> opionion of the professionals out there?  I can't afford two routers....
> 
> Would the Bosch 1613 EVS be a good compromise for plunge/HP/features
> and still be able to handle it on top and under a router table?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dave

I think 3 HP is going to be a bit much for a first hand router. But if
you've been using routers before, you'll be able to handle it. Otherwise
stay below the 2 HP size.

The 1613 is a very good hand-held router, but Bosch advises against
putting it into a router table. There's a problem mounting it upside
down. Otherwise it would be a fine choice. The DeWalt 2-ish HP is also a
good choice.

HTH.

Stan


From moessy@eideti.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:28 EST 1997
Article: 184316 of rec.woodworking
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From: moessy@eideti.com (neil granholm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Are old sears tools bad??
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 08:48:07 GMT
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"Jimmy D. Roland" <jdroland@execpc.com> wrote:

>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

>------=_NextPart_000_01BC1865.6184FC00
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>The problem with older Craftsman and Sears tools are that if the vintage is
>over 10 years old you may not be able to get critical parts for them.   I
>have a 1954 9" table saw that my father bought new to build the family
>home.  It has has been well cared for and is very servicable.  I borrowed a
>friends 1965 Craftsman RAS once.  He hadn't used in in 10 years and it had
>pretty much seized up.  I did get it working with WD 40 and guts (then he
>had an interest in it, the original deal was borrow, and dad taught me to
>return tools in the same or better condition.  Yes, if he borrowed a tool
>he return the original cutter and the new cutter he bought for his
>project.)  The saw was missing some parts and Sears no longer carried them.

>Personally, if they are clean, complete, and servicable pieces of
>stationary equipment with cast iron and the cost is not over 30 percent of
>my desirable piece of equipment.  I consider my bank account and make a gut
>decision.  If it is for the same piece and it was made by a Rockwell/Delta
>50 percent of new is an easy for a complete piece (I know I can get parts
>and manuals).  

>jim


>Wayne Corrie <wayne2@home.com> wrote in article <33009F59.7F5F@home.com>...
>> Are all of the old Craftsman wood tools bad?  I know full well that the
>> new ones are "Crapsman", but what about the stuff made back in the 40's
>> and 50's??
>> 
>> Wayne Corrie
>> 
I own a Craftsman band saw  and a disc sander from the 50's or 40's.
I am very happy with the two of them.  I also own a newer tilting head
Craftsman band saw.  the new one is crappy plastic and aluminum.  They
sell for around 350.00 but I couldnt sell it for 100.00.  I agree that
the quality of these tools donot compare with my DeWalt power shop or
Rockwell Delta.  

neilzo  



From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:29 EST 1997
Article: 184317 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thin Panel Glue-up
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 03:23:42 GMT
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Joint the material carefully, and check everything for a good fit.
Screw a narrow piece of 1/4" material to a piece of 3/4 melamine. Lay
the pieces to be glued together on the melamine, against the strip you
screwed down. Screw down another strip about three inches away from
the cedar on the opposite side. Cut a couple of pairs of matching
wedges (1/4" thick) and use them opposing to apply the clamping
pressure. Easy does it. Lay another piece of melamine on top of the
glueup to keep it flat as it cures.

DM



"Jim" <jbos@niia.net> wrote:

>Does anyone know of a good technique for gluing up thin panels? I am making
>a humidor and need to glue a panel approx 10" x 16" using thin strips of
>1/4 Spanish Cedar to minimize twisting of the liner.  Any suggestions will
>be greatly appreciated.

>Thanks for any help
>Jim




From david@meiland.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:30 EST 1997
Article: 184318 of rec.woodworking
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From: david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building a fairly large maple top bench: question
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 03:30:11 GMT
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Do NOT attach a piece of plywood to the bottom of that slab. It will
inhibit wood movement and cause the slab to crack eventually. Why
should the dog holes be deeper? I built my main bench out of 8/4 maple
and it has a bunch of fully functional steel dogs. If you really need
extra thickness, maybe attach a scrap of solid maple to the underside
where the holes are (but not crossgrain)

Not familiar with the veritas vise.

DM


levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy) wrote:

>I just purchased a laminated maple "buther block" that was intended for
>a counter top and is 6' x 3'.  I intend to build a workbench around it
>that has a Record 53E vice on front and a Veritas twin screw vice as an
>end vice.  I bought this thing because I got it cheap, but it is only 1
>3/4 inches thick.  I am thinking of attaching a piece of 3/4 inch
>plywood to the underside as a thickener, the rationale being that the
>dog holes should be deeper than 1 & 3/4" and that this will add
>stiffness and heft to the bench.  Any thoughts on this idea or other
>suggestions on how I should modify this maple top for my bench?  I
>could always buy the other 3' x 6' x 1 3/4 bench top the store had (97
>dollars) and attach it to the one I have, but that seems a shame to do.

>One other question:  since the top will be 3' wide, the Veritas ts vice
>will only cover part of the end of the bench, which is supposed to be a
>no no, according to the instructions that came with it, becuase of
>seasonal wood movement messing up the alignment of the vice.  I
>understand that the wood movement at the end of the vice will be more
>than at the front, but why does this mess up the alignment?  Should I
>make the back jaw cover the entire 3' end, in that case, even though
>the front jaw will be only about 24 inches?  I can't wait to start
>building this thing.  Thanks for the info.



>David N. Levy
>University of Alabama at Birmingham
>Birmingham, AL 35294-0007

>levy@uab.edu




From goldnrod@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:31 EST 1997
Article: 184319 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ernest Shipley <goldnrod@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Marc Adams Videos |||| Where can they be purchased?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:25:47 -0800
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Jim wrote:
> 
> I am looking for three videos by Marc Adams . Does anyone have an
> address or phone # to obtain these?
> 
>         Thanks
In the Feb 97 issue of Fine Woodworking, there is an advetisement from
"Manny's Woodworkers Place" for the Mark Adams tapes. There Ph# is
800-243-0713. They are located in Lexington, KY
Ernie


From rockman@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:32 EST 1997
Article: 184320 of rec.woodworking
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From: rockman@ix.netcom.com(rockman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bisquit joiner purchase--any suggestions?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 06:31:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <01bc1bc1$b2b3d7e0$f07a30ce@bergeron> "Michelle DeMars"
<bergeron@mnsi.net> writes: 

I am in the market to purchase a bisquit joiner for home use.  Which
one in your opinion is the best value for the dollar?
Thanking you in advance for your suggestions!

    Don't know about best value for dollar, but...I love my DeWalt
(DW682)


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:33 EST 1997
Article: 184321 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The 'Real' CMT?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:46:30 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Matt Prusik wrote:
> 
> Termite wrote:
> >
> > StanR wrote:
> > >
> > > Sag09 wrote:
> > > snip
> > > But another prioblem with the CMT bits. Well, not the bits actually, but
> > > the packing.
> > >snip
> >
> > Stan,
> > You're SO RIGHT. I got my new CMT bits yesterday ( 10 days after the
> > order!) and discovered just what you're talking about. I was wondering
> > what the heck that was all about. Not every one of the packages had that
> > tape on it so I guess it was just the NEW ONES from production - others
> > from off-the-shelf.
> > In two cases I had to wrap a towel around the bit and use a pair of
> > pliers to get the bit out of the packge. Then I was afraid that I would
> > scratch the shank - so on the other I tore the paper from the bottom of
> > the package, used a drift punch to drive the bit out of the package - be
> > sure to catch the bit (or stop short) as you don't want that new bit to
> > hit the floor.
> 
>         FWIW, you could try squirting the stuff with WD-40.  It will
> dissolve the adhesive and not harm the bit in any way.

Well, once I got the bits out, it was easy to clean up both bits and
base with some Goof-Off. But you can't get the stuff into the
tight-fitting collar to begin with. untill after you remove the bit. And
they must put down the tape (it has a shank-hole in it) before they
insert the bit because the shank pushed the tape into the collar-hole.
Anyway.. big mess, poor packing solution. 

If anyone from CMT reads this here's an idea: Put the bit into a little
pouch. Then ship the pouched-bit and the pretty little case, sans tape,
and we can do the final assembly ourselves (no instructions needed <g>).

Stan


From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:34 EST 1997
Article: 184322 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bisquit joiner purchase--any suggestions?
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:57:03 -0800
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rockman wrote:
> 
> In <01bc1bc1$b2b3d7e0$f07a30ce@bergeron> "Michelle DeMars"
> <bergeron@mnsi.net> writes:
> 
> I am in the market to purchase a bisquit joiner for home use.  Which
> one in your opinion is the best value for the dollar?
> Thanking you in advance for your suggestions!
> 
>     Don't know about best value for dollar, but...I love my DeWalt
> (DW682)


Ditto.

Stan


From dwayne@datasync.com~ Sat Feb 15 11:53:35 EST 1997
Article: 184323 of rec.woodworking
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From: "D. Wayne" <dwayne@datasync.com~>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 06:40:01 GMT
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They might help
> some people but create a lot of questions/frustrations for others. 
Putting
> them out on the Web could generate more email than I'm prepared to
handle. 
> Tom Gaudlin's recent posting seems to bear this out.
> 
> Developing a good set of stand-alone plans would probably take as long as
> building the piece.  That is not where I get my kicks.  
> 
> Craig Treleaven
[snip]
I find that drawing a good set of plans to be as much rewarding as building
the piece. You are correct in that it does take a lot of time not to
mention experience to come up with a good set of plans. Also the program
thats used to do the drawings makes all the difference in the world. I
realize there are folks who want to concentrate on building the piece and
not days on designing and drafting the blueprint or plans. I have been in
the Woodworking business for 19 years and even with my experience their is
still a lot of fore-thought and planning that goes into a project. I use
Autocad to do all my drafting which has taken me a couple of years to get
to the point of being able to turn out a plan in a reasonable amount of
time. I realize this isn't very theisable for the recreational woodworker
but as I said this is my daily job. I design all kinds of cabinets using
Autocad and while it takes time to learn to use it efficiently it turns out
an excellent set of blueprints. I worked on an Entertainment center tonight
that I am about to build for a customer and had a topview,frontview and
frontview with doors in about 2 hours. I also would like to start designing
any special projects that folks in this ng just can't seem to find the
right plans for on the Net. I only take on 1 or 2 projects at a time to
limit the e-mail flow you spoke of and also because I only work on the
plans in the evenings since I spend most of my days in my shop. If anyone
needs special plans your welcome to contact me and we can discuss your
special needs. However Autocad isn't cheap and their can be a fair amount
of time in a project depending on it complexity so my fees are based on
these issues. I think their is a lot of very knowledgeable people in this
ng and even though I'm relatively new to this ng I have gathered a lot of
informative information following along here the past few weeks. I didn't
mean to turn this into a plug but I just feel that I am one of a few people
who actually enjoys the drafting end of woodworking and if I can be of any
help to some of you folks in this ng let me know.
			Dee Stringer
			Stringer Woodworks
			dwayne@datasync.com~   (remove the ~ for e-mail)


From kenm@polarnet.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:35 EST 1997
Article: 184324 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Mauldin <kenm@polarnet.com>
Subject: Re: Auto. Dust Collector Switch
Message-ID: <3304A9D3.42AF@polarnet.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 09:07:15 -0900
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Darrell Crutchley wrote:
> 
> After seeing the new tool vacuum from Craftsman (and a couple of others)
> I got to wondering if a switch could be wired to operate a shop vacuum
> so that when you turn a tool on at its switch, the shop vac also turns
> on. I did find a similar switch that turns on a dust collector in the
> Jan/Feb 1988 Fine Woodworking in an article by Robert Terry. This switch
> has a sensor that senses current flowing out of the circuit breaker to
> the machinery that requires dust collection. This sensor then trips a
> relay that turns on the dust collector. I guess this system could be
> adapted for use with plugs and outlets rather than the circuit breaker,
> but I am wondering if there is a simpler solution.
> 
> Does anyone know of a product you can purchase (or make) that will tie
> the operation of the shop vac to the operation of individual tools??
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Darrell
Check out Woodworker's Supply (800-645-9292). They have a "Collector
Automater (r)". It does almost exactly what you are asking. It is two
plugs on an extension cord type contraption that ... "Automatically
turns your dust collection system on separately to prevent circuit
breaker tripping, blown fuses, and low voltage starting damage to
motors. It also makes it more convenient because you use one switch and
have less chance of forgetting to turn the collector on/off. Model
DC-1200 fits a standard AC outlet for use with 110V power tools and our
802-124 dust collecotr and all others up to 8 amps. Model DC-2400 is for
use with our models 805-930 and 805-958 dust collectors (on 230V).
Installs in a 4-11/16" or larger electrical box and requires wiring.
Instructions included." (A) DC-1200 39.95... (B) DC-2400 44.95 (C)
DC-2500 69.95 (C) DC-2520 72.95. 
You might call to check them out and see. The magazine I have is about 2
years old, but I'm sure they have the same or similar item(s) now.

Ken



From stanr@california.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:36 EST 1997
Article: 184325 of rec.woodworking
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From: StanR <stanr@california.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 23:05:11 -0800
Organization: Too Late For That
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Steve Newell wrote:
> 
> In article <32fd7c2d.3439881@news.ftn.net>, verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender) wrote:
> >Note so many asking about a router table and as I have plans posted on
> >my home page please take a look.
> <SNIP>
> >
> >Verne
> 
> A URL would be appreciated.


Here's Verne's homepage: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092

Stan


From barss@Milori.CCIT.Arizona.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:53:37 EST 1997
Article: 184326 of rec.woodworking
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From: barss@Milori.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building a fairly large maple top bench: question
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 06:35:51 GMT
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In article <5e28jp$eie@maze.dpo.uab.edu>, levy@uab.edu (David N. Levy) writes:
>I just purchased a laminated maple "buther block" that was intended for
>a counter top and is 6' x 3'.  I intend to build a workbench around it
>that has a Record 53E vice on front and a Veritas twin screw vice as an
>end vice.  I bought this thing because I got it cheap, but it is only 1
>3/4 inches thick.  I am thinking of attaching a piece of 3/4 inch
>plywood to the underside as a thickener, the rationale being that the
>dog holes should be deeper than 1 & 3/4" and that this will add
>stiffness and heft to the bench.  Any thoughts on this idea or other
>suggestions on how I should modify this maple top for my bench? 


One thing you'll need to work around is that the maple will
move seasonally (across its width), and the plywood won't. So,
you'll need to figure out how to attach the maple to the plywood without 
actually attaching it across the whole surface.

I confronted the same sort of problem with a bench I recently built;
deferring my planned traditional bench that never seemed to get made,
I put together a very solid torsion box out of 2x6 construction lumber,
and three layers of plywood glued and screwed to that.  On top of it
all goes a single layer of ash hardwood.  Ernie Fisch recommended
a smart way to attach the two layers: use a sliding dovetail.  In
your case, what you'd want to do is cut a dovetail-shaped recess
across the width of the maple, near either end, and perhaps in the middle
as well.  Then, attach (screws would work) a strip of hardwood 
to the plywood at each position.  Final step: slide the maple
onto the plywood, so that the dovetail shaped "keys" get captured
in the corresponding recesses.  Then, when all is aligned, attach
the maple directly to the plywood, but just along one edge (the
front, OR the back, or, for that matter, down the middle). This keeps
the two layers closely aligned, while the dovetail keys keep them
together, but allowing some seasonal shifting.

As for the dog holes, you'd be be needing to deal with the fact that
as the seasonal expansion of the maple occurs, the holes in the maple
will move out of alignment with the holes in the plywood.  There's
a couple things you could do: keep the dogholes along the same edge
of the benchtop as the two layers are attached on, thus minimizing
this "drift" is one option.

1 3/4" strikes me anyway as a pretty decent top thickness. If the
sole concern is making the top thicker at the doghole
spots, what I'd consider doing is just gluing some additional blocks
below he top where you'll be cutting the dog holes to make them thicker
at that point.  Or, glue up a seperate unit 6" or so wide, and as
thick as you like, containing the dog holes, and bolt the whole thing
to the front of the main bench (this is what I'm doing).      



 I
>could always buy the other 3' x 6' x 1 3/4 bench top the store had (97
>dollars) and attach it to the one I have, but that seems a shame to do.


That's a pretty nice price for maple butcherblock that thick -- you might
consider getting it for later use.

-- Andrew Barss



>
>David N. Levy
>University of Alabama at Birmingham
>Birmingham, AL 35294-0007
>
>levy@uab.edu


From attel@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:38 EST 1997
Article: 184327 of rec.woodworking
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From: attel@worldnet.att.net (Victor Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thin Panel Glue-up
Date: 15 Feb 1997 02:24:28 -0500
Organization: Etta & Victor Kan
Lines: 22
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>>>>> ""Jim"" == "Jim"  <jbos@niia.net> writes:
In article <01bc19b1$e8857f20$48bdf8cc@silver.niia.net> "Jim" <jbos@niia.net> writes:

"Jim"> Does anyone know of a good technique for gluing up thin panels?
"Jim"> I am making a humidor and need to glue a panel approx 10" x 16"
"Jim"> using thin strips of 1/4 Spanish Cedar to minimize twisting of
"Jim"> the liner.  Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I recently glued up a ~ 12"x12" square of 3/16" x 4" balsa boards with
good success for a table tennis blade (AKA a ping pong paddle :-).

I used a couple of Bessey K-body clamps laying down on their side with
a couple of pairs of cawls (battens?) spring-clamped perpendicular to
the joints to keep the panel from bending/buckling under moderate
clamp pressure.  I intended to use three pairs, but I got too lazy to
setup the glue up such that my 7" reach clamps would work, so I took a
chance.  I was lucky and the panel is flat.

The cawls are strips of material with holes drilled where the glue
lines would be, then ripped in half to form a matched pair that go
over and under the boards.



From symetry@enter.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:39 EST 1997
Article: 184328 of rec.woodworking
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From: "jensen" <symetry@enter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cat Condo/scratching posts
Date: 15 Feb 1997 08:22:08 GMT
Organization: ENTER.NET
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do what i do whenever i want to build something and im not to sure to build
it 
just head out to the nearest pet store and look at one there feel it and
look at all the detail how it was put together what was use to put it
together . then head out to one of those dollar store places and pick up
some cheap rugs and let your imagination do the rest.
     hope i was of some help

Jerry and Lisa <jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<01bc1864$5bd1bec0$561193cf@jmv_1.state.co.us>...
>
I want to build a kitty condo or a nice scratching post for my
> kitties..  I was wondering if anyone in this group can help me.. Send me
to
> a web page or show a picture of a pattern of a kitty condo or scratching
> post..  I want it to be a nice place for my cats, something sturdy, but I
> don't want to spend $200 on something my cats are going to scratch up.. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Lisa
> 
> jnl-colo@worldnet.att.net
> 
> 


From symetry@enter.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:40 EST 1997
Article: 184329 of rec.woodworking
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From: "jensen" <symetry@enter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: help with adding outlets in basement
Date: 15 Feb 1997 08:31:17 GMT
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i just recently set up my workshop in my basement and the only problem is
that 
there is only two sockets  i wanted too add maybe two or three more around
my workbenches but i dont have the slightest idea of how to do it.
        can someone recommend a book or website or video.any other help
would be greatly appreciated.please e-mail me because i usually dont have
time to load this newsgroup.



         thank you.


From attel@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:41 EST 1997
Article: 184330 of rec.woodworking
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From: attel@worldnet.att.net (Victor Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.table-tennis,rec.woodworking
Subject: made my own TT blade and like it so far
Date: 15 Feb 1997 04:05:12 -0500
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If you don't like long, dull stories about table tennis and
woodworking projects/tools, please skip this posting.

One of my justifications for buying a bandsaw was that I wanted to
make table tennis blades.  I'm happy to say that I'm almost finished
with my first blade (also my first woodworking project for 1997) and
put the bandsaw to good use.  I didn't cut my own veneers with it (I
intend to for future projects), but it was very helpful in curve
cutting and working with small pieces.

The blade is made of about $5 worth of materials:

	- 3/16" balsa (4" wide board from a crafts store)
	- .8mm 3-ply Finnish birch bending plywood (mail order)
	- scrap cherry heartwood

Despite a warning from a fellow TT player and woodworker on one of
these newsgroups that such a combination would be too fast, I went
ahead with the balsa + birch plywood combination.

I don't think it's too fast (maybe a little faster than my OFF- Avalox
5-ply), and it seems to have good "feel".  The "sweet spot", which I'm
judging by the sound of tapping my knuckle on various parts of the
head and bouncing a ball on the blade (sans rubber), seems to be a bit
bigger than my Avalox.

The construction is a balsa core with outer birch ply skins, resulting
in a 7-ply, 1/4" thick blade with cherry for the handle.  I used (way
too much :-) Gorilla Glue polyurethane glue for the lamination and for
applying the cherry to the "tang" of the blade.  The stuff really
spreads out--you don't need to use a lot of GG.

I'm entertaining the fantasy that the polyurethane glue is acting like
the "polyarylate" (whatever the heck that is!) in some of Butterfly's
mega-buck products, and imparting high tech. magic to the blade :-).

I like it so far, as do my TT buddies who've tried it (shakehanders).

Right now, the handle is about twice as big as it should be for a
penhold blade (the end result), and it's even a bit big for a straight
handled shakehand blade, so it's kind of heavy overall (105g).  But
the balance is right where the handle ends and the head begins
(relatively handle-heavy vs. other blades I've used), making it feel
light even with a heavy Chinese rubber (PF4 Super 2.0mm black, 48g) on
one side (Sriver FX 1.9mm red on the other, 38g).  I guess it's the
anti-WRB (Stiga's line of hollow-handled, head-heavy, but light
overall, blades).  Funny thing about Sriver FX--my sheet of 1.7mm
black weighs 42g, > 10% heaver than the 1.9mm red cut to the same
size.

I only hope this balance isn't totally lost when I finish
carving/sizing the handle and sizing the head to final shape, which is
based on the Avalox 5-ply so I can share rubber, at least until I
decide I like my home made blade better and further customize it.

Woodworking Techniques:

I used the bandsaw for rough cutting to size and shape.  Everything
else was done with hand tools.

- gluing up thin boards

I was careful in jointing the balsa boards in order to avoid clamping
problems.  The blade is ~6" wide, but I could find only 4" wide boards
locally, so I glued up three 12" lengths to form a ~12"x12" square.  I
put a #5 in the vice and ran the boards (as book-matched pairs) over
that to joint the boards since they were so short and thin.

For glue up, I used two Bessey K-body clamps on their sides with
cawls/battens spring-clamped across the glue lines to prevent buckling
under pressure.  The battens are strips of straight grained, scrap
pine with holes drilled in the middle there the glue lines would be,
then ripped in half to form matching pairs.  I used only two pairs,
one on each end.  I wanted to use three, but I was too lazy to set up
things such that my 7" reach F-clamps would work.  The glue up turned
out flat anyway.

I cut the racket out of the middle so there's a 4" wide board in the
middle of the head to avoid having a glue line right in the middle,
which I think would be detrimental to the blade.  If anyone knows of a
source for 6" wide balsa (model aircraft suppliers?), let me know.

- shaping the handle

I made it more difficult than necessary by working with scrap stock
that was already rough-sized for the handle.  This made holding the
stock a challenge.  I roughed out the rounded handle with a
flat-soled, iron spokeshave, then smoothed it a bit with a block
plane.

Then I glued the cherry parts to the tang of the blade, one side at a
time.  The first piece was relatively easy because there was at least
one flat surface for the clamping.  The second piece was tough to get
aligned.  For my next blade, I'll probably glue the square/flat cherry
blanks onto the tang first, then shape it.  But that has its own
problems too WRT initial shaping.  Maybe the thing to do is to shape
the head end first, leaving the handle end flat for easy clamping and
relatively easy shaping later.

The mouth on my spokeshave is way too wide, so the surface is a bit
rough in spots.  I started sizing and cleaning up some more with my #9
1/2 (albeit a new UK Stanley).  Although it's a bit tough to adjust,
once it's there, it works like a charm.  With the adjustable mouth set
to a minimal opening, it works fabulously as a polishing plane,
especially on this cherry handle.  You'd have a hard time convincing
me that a smooth plane or any grit of abrasive or a scraper could
produce a noticeably smoother surface.

I cleaned most of the polyurethane glue squeeze out near the handle
with a chisel.  There's some small bits left that I should clean up
with a chisel plane (finally, I have a use for my #92 combo
shoulder/chisel plane!).  I think a bull nose plane would do the trick
of some shaping of the handle near the head there the #9 1/2 just
can't get close enough, and were the chisel plane might be a bit
rough.

- shaping the head

Nothing special there, just bandsawed to rough shape, then filed to
the line (and beyond :-).  Not once did I long for an oscillating
spindle sander or drum sander (long live Galootism!).

You know, this type of project is really great.  Not only do I combine
my favorite hobbies to good effect, but it's a great
honey-I-need-another-tool excuse! :-)  First, the bandsaw, now a #75
bull nose (heck, maybe I should shoot for a #90!).



From leetlmbr@zoomnet.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:42 EST 1997
Article: 184331 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bill Curnutte" <leetlmbr@zoomnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Timber Sizes
Date: 13 Feb 1997 20:28:38 GMT
Organization: ZoomNet News
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <01bc19d7$732fb260$fb66e6ce@leetlmbr>
References: <MPG.d698051e4606466989681@news.wol.enternet.com.au> <32FFE246.50EC@ix.netcom.com> <33026705.12BA@uhs.umass.edu>
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If you'd like some more information on this "weird science" of lumber
sizing and grading, go to http://www.wwpa.org/index.html

This is the home page of the Western Wood Products Association.  While
their stuff deals mostly with construction lumber, you can still glean some
interesting info from them.

Bill Curnutte

Jerome R Yezierski <donnay@uhs.umass.edu> wrote in article
<33026705.12BA@uhs.umass.edu>...
> Bill Pounds wrote:
> 
> >  BUT, and this is the secret part, 1 inch is not really one inch, it's
3/4 inch. 
> 
...
> 
>  Great woodworking folks.
> Jerome
> 


From rbroehl@infinet.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:43 EST 1997
Article: 184332 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbroehl@infinet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Trim Saw Recommendation
Date: 13 Feb 1997 22:43:36 GMT
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I am thinking of purchasing a trim saw (small circular saw).  I have seen a 
couple of battery powered ones, and a few 120V one too.  Which ones are good, 
and which are junk?

I want to mainly use it for cutting plywood, 3/4" and less.  Would be used 
only once in a while.

Thanks.

Rob Broehl


From anon@anon.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:43 EST 1997
Article: 184333 of rec.woodworking
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From: "anon" <anon@anon.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TS Table Warp?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 03:51:05 GMT
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I just checked my tablesaw with a good straightedge and feeler gauges and I
have a at least .007 dish in the middle.  The saw is under warranty so I
might be able to get it re-ground.

Is this within acceptable limits?  I hate to ask the mfg. for the first
opinion.



From charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:44 EST 1997
Article: 184334 of rec.woodworking
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From: Curt Harms <charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jet Benchtop Planer
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 04:53:12 -0800
Organization: Surf Network
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <3305B1B8.100@mailserver.netcarrier.com>
References: <5d55qt$t62$1@news.nyu.edu> <mark.hodges-1102971824250001@actiniummac.west.sun.com>
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Mark Hodges wrote:
> 
> My local dealer (who handles Jet and Delta) says that both of the new
> planers (from Delta and Jet) are coming from the same factory, and so far
> both are having quality control problems, so no release date.
> 
> Mark
> 
> In article <5d55qt$t62$1@news.nyu.edu>, Kent FItzgerald
> <kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu> wrote:
> 
> > >Any comments on the Jet 12" benchtop planer would be welcomed. I am
> > >considering that unit, based on price and features, it looked like it
> > >was a good buy at the William Alden site at $319... is there any better
> > >benchtop unit out there for less than $400?
> >
> >
> > Depends which Jet 12" planer. What I didn't know until about 10 minutes
> > ago is that there are two different models. The one that Wm. Alden has on
> > their web site is the JWP-12, which is recognizable by the large height
> > adjustment handwheel on the side.
> >
> > According to the Wood magazine review (Nov. '96), there is supposed to be
> > a new Jet model, the JWP-12 4P (4 post), which has the height crank on
> > top and a smooth bed (no rollers). This was one of the better rated
> > machines in the test, but it doesn't appear to be on the market yet. In
> > fact, Jet doesn't even acknowledge that it exists in their catalog.
> >
> > Confused? I am. Then there's the much-rumored new Delta, which just might
> > be out within this century....
> >
> > Kent
> >
> > ______________________________________________
> > Kent Fitzgerald           kentfitz@cns.nyu.edu
> > Center for Neural Science, New York University
I would bet a Unisaw that Jet and Delta don't come from the same
factory.
However, did you look at Grizzly's 12" planer? They've gotten good
reviews.  Delta's vaporware planer is supposed to condense in April


From charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:45 EST 1997
Article: 184335 of rec.woodworking
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From: Curt Harms <charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Sander?  WAS: Delta 4x36 belt/6" disc sander???
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 05:17:08 -0800
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damian drewek wrote:
> 
> I posted an article about what people thought about the Delta benchtop
> sander and the feedback I got was that it's easier to stall making it
> not real good for large scale use.  One suggestion for saving $$ on a
> larger one was to look at Grizzly.  Grizzly still has a presidents
> special on their 6x48/9" disc sander.  It is on a stand and has 3/4 Hp.
> PRice is $169 and for me $50 shipping.
> 
> Anyone have experience with this sander??
> Thanks
> DAmian
I've got one, and they work OK.  Did give a self adhesive graphite
platen
material from Woodworker's Supply and applied it, which cut down on 
chatter.I've thought about ordering a second table so I don't have to
move the larger table from disk to belt, but haven't yet.

One consideration with this machine and any like it, is dust collection.
mine is in my basement, and it generates a LOT of dust.  Any thoughts
out there?


From charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:46 EST 1997
Article: 184336 of rec.woodworking
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From: Curt Harms <charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Philly WW'ing Stores?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 05:30:37 -0800
Organization: Surf Network
Lines: 14
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References: <5e06s2$2vs@daryl.scsn.net>
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Kevin W. Tucker wrote:
> 
>  I will be in Philly later this month, any suggestions for any "downtown"
> woodworking stores open for visitors?
> 
> Kevin W. Tucker
> ktucker@scsn.net
> 
> (remove the "*" from my address to reply)
I don't know about "downtown" (Center City) but there are several a few
miles north that I know of.  Email me at charms@netcarrier.com if you
want more info.

Curt


From charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:47 EST 1997
Article: 184337 of rec.woodworking
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From: Curt Harms <charms@mailserver.netcarrier.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router for router table use
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 05:26:56 -0800
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bmack@direct.ca wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 03 Feb 97 21:11:59 GMT, echi@cisco.com (P. Eric Chi) wrote:
> 
> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm looking for a router for putting in the router table. I noticed that
> >William Alden has a very good price on Freud FT2000E for $159 after $30 rebate
> >from Freud. Is this Freud model good for  table use? How is it compare to
> >other routers, like Hitachi M12V, ...?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Eric.
> 
> Eric:
> 
> Icouldn't do without my Dewalt 3hp v/s I think it a DW625, use it in
> my router table, get the adjustment knob fron Dewalt (Ialso got the
> fence for handheld stuff
> Bryce
Mine's gutty and easy to use, but the collet is not superb. Freud may
now
include 1/4" collet, but mine purchased 1yr.ago did not include 1/4". 
Using a reducing bushing works, but is awkward. Recently, the 1/2"
collet
nut separated from the tapered portion. Now I have to use an old screw
driver to drive bushing out.  Don't know why collet came apart.


From xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:48 EST 1997
Article: 184338 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Johnson <xstrange@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: blade guards/hold downs
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 02:40:48 -0800
Organization: Johnson's Extremely Strange
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Termite wrote:
> 
> Bruce Johnson wrote:
> snip
> > I didn't install the pawls because I have a pair of the Leichtung
> > anti-kickback wheel arms mounted to my fence. They work better than
> > anything else I've tried.
> >
> snip
> Is/Are these Leichtung whell arms you reference the item that I know as
> 'Yellow buddies"?

Hello Termite!

No, they're not. I also have a set of the Board Buddies hold downs with
the yellow wheels. For those of you just joining us, the Board Buddies
mount to the top of the fence, and have spring-loaded pivoting arms that
are perpendicular to the fence, with cone shaped urethane wheels on the
ends that have one-way sprag clutches in their hubs. They work, but
there are two things I didn't like about them: 1.) You can't position
them very close to the fence when ripping narrow strips, and 2.) they
have to be constantly readjusted for different thicknesses of wood. 

The Leichtung hold down system is available from Leichtung Co., an
interesting little mail-order outfit that was recently bought out by
Woodworker's Supply. I think it's listed in the newest Woodworker's
Supply catalog. It's only about $40.

The Leichtung system's pivoting arms run parallel to the fence (actually
you adjust them to angle a few degrees towards the fence), and the
(cylindrical) wheels mount on the side of the arms towards the fence.
They can be adjusted right up against the fence to effectively hold down
1/4" wide strips. The arms have lots of travel, and will handle wood
>from  1/8" to 2" thick with no readjustment. 

For anti-kickback, the wheels have fairly coarse ratchets in the hubs,
so the wood will move back about 1/8" before they lock up. It really
works. The wide surface of the wheels, combined with the self-energizing
geometry of the arms, make them really grab the board tightly. It takes
a lot of muscle to pull a board backwards through them.

One thing that needs some work is the mounting system. They have
built-in T-handle clamps, but they don't open wide enough to clamp onto
most serious fences. I mounted a 1 1/4" square strip of maple to the top
of my Beisemeyer for them to clamp to. 

Overall, it's a well designed safety accessory for a tablesaw. I hope
Woodworker's Supply makes a few improvements and sells a lot of them.

Bruce Johnson
Johnson's Extremely Strange Musical Instrument Co.
Burbank, CA


From chrisr@inreach.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:49 EST 1997
Article: 184339 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33057AE2.430B@inreach.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:59:15 -0800
From: Christopher Raymond <chrisr@inreach.com>
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Subject: Re: Dust Collector suggestions?
References: <01bc1957$c5a97ec0$4b3378cf@rharding.airnet.net> <33037CD3.5BD4@scripps.edu> <01bc19e6$34276220$675a45c6@mick-davis> <33047368.542D@qgraph.com> <33049FB5.1C33@sadust.hill.com>
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The latest edition of Wood magazine has a dust collector comparison,
check it out.

Chris


From surfgeo@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:51 EST 1997
Article: 184340 of rec.woodworking
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From: surfgeo@aol.com (SURFGEO)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: rocking horse plans
Date: 15 Feb 1997 11:44:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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take a look at 

http://members.aol.com/surfgeo/gibrock.html

for plans to build the most unique and best rocking horse you have ever
seen, no kidding


From sodapop+@CMU.EDU Sat Feb 15 11:53:51 EST 1997
Article: 184341 of rec.woodworking
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From: Daniel Morris DeRight <sodapop+@CMU.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rottenstone
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:33:20 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
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Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 12-Feb-97 Re: rottenstone by John
Paquay@physics.purd 
> In article <19970211235900.SAA20684@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
craig1708@aol.com 
> says...
> >Depending on the finish you are polishing, water works well, as does a
> >light oil like baby oil. It acts as a lubricant keeping the rottenstone
> >from scratching the surface.
> >A small amount is all that is needed, just enough to wet the surface.
> 
> Just a quick note/addendum:
> Using water as a lubricant will give you a different finish from using oil.
> Oil is used when a more satiny finish is the objective, and water is the
> lubricant used for high gloss finishes.  Of course, the degree of
gloss you'll
> end up with are still limited by the inherent sheen of the finish.

    All quite true.  It's also good to remember that the oil cuts
friction a great deal better than the water, so it's much easier to work
with.  As a result, I will always buff out with fine pumice and mineral
oil, which will yeild a very smooth, satin finish.  If a high gloss is
desired, I then switch to rottenstone and water, which will quickly
bring out the shine, as all the hard work was done with the pumice and
oil.  Much like grits of sandpaper, go too fine, too fast will often
take longer than just working your way up.

==========================
Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu

Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom.  It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.    -William Pitt 


From lucifer@sheol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:53 EST 1997
Article: 184342 of rec.woodworking
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From: lucifer@sheol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: The FAQ for this group...
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 12:08:17 GMT
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The FAQ for this newsgroup
and other worthwhile links are at
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html

the Mulder Intro is at
http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

The search engine for all news groups is at 
http://www.dejanews.com/forms/dnq.html 

The Usenet may also be searched at
http://www.infoseek.com/

but to retrieve binaries, search Usenet at
http://altavista.digital.com

a Usenet general-info URL is
http://www.yahoo.com/News_and_Media/Usenet/Newsgroup_Listings/

To reply, properly format the following.
My apologies for the inconvenience that
spammers have caused.
Chuck: cwuest at ibm dot net


From *dgalley@bconnex.net Sat Feb 15 11:53:54 EST 1997
Article: 184343 of rec.woodworking
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From: *dgalley@bconnex.net (David Galley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.woodturning
Subject: Re: 'Workshop' Dust Filter System
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 12:49:30 GMT
Organization: Barrie Connex newsserver
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Steven,

That is quite a cost saving. I wonder how it would have worked with
the furnace filters? I just replaced my complete furnace and I kept
the blower assembly from the old one. I was toying with the idea of
building a housing and using it but was afraid that it might weigh too
much to hang up. Now you've got me thinking. Any advice you can offer
regarding the construction would be appreciated. Thanks.

David
NOTE: remove the * from my email address listed for the actual one.



>Dave, funny you should mention it!! I just made my own dust filter. I was
>working on a diagram from an advertisement I saw in Shop Notes. The diagram
>had all the measurements and I copied them down and took my shopping list to
>the store and bought all my wood. What I forgot to do was take the
>measurements for the furnace filters it uses. Well I figured I'd pick these up
>later.
>
>Two days later the Lee Valley cat. comes in the mail and there is the dust
>filter box advertised. They were also selling the filters seperately. I picked
>up a first & and second stage filter. I then modified the design of the box
>for the unit I was building and used the "real" filters for it. 
>
>Just finished the whole thing two days ago and I'm very pleased with the way
>the filters seem to be collecting. 
>
>I figure that by makeing the box myself I saved about $200. Mind you I did get
>the squirrel cage blower for only $20 from friend. Someone else figured the
>motor was about 400 CFM, so quite good for my single car garage/shop.
>
>



From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:55 EST 1997
Article: 184344 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best way to filter dusty shop air?
Message-ID: <8D20527.0233012973.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 21:59:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Take a big wad of CA$H and give it to the Hrdwr guy who sells Air
cleaning eqpmnt,,In return he will give ya a big boxy lookin thing that
sucks dirty air in one side while pumpin out Cleaner air outta the other
side! Once in awhile you change this boxy things filter so it dont burn
up...
                                         Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:56 EST 1997
Article: 184345 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for futon frame
Message-ID: <8D2051D.0233012972.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 21:49:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Goto a well stocked Book dealer like Barnes n Noble an get a copy of a
book on Futons,,Ive seen so many of em im gettin dizzy...
                                                    Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:57 EST 1997
Article: 184346 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Furniture Plans
Message-ID: <8D2034E.0233012970.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 14:06:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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The Public Library has plans,Millions of em......
                                               LW

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From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:58 EST 1997
Article: 184347 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi Routers?
Message-ID: <8D20519.0233012971.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 21:45:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Ryobi makes routers fer Sears,,If i was you i woul;d jes borrow my next
door neighbors 300$ router with the good 50$ bits in it.
                                           Lee Ward

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From tkjulius@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:53:59 EST 1997
Article: 184348 of rec.woodworking
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From: tkjulius@aol.com (TKJULIUS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Trim Saw Recommendation
Date: 15 Feb 1997 13:35:00 GMT
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I've been very pleased with my DeWalt 14.4 volt saw.  When cutting
plywood, the battery drain is great if conditions are not good.  I was
unable to trim off the roof decking of 26x40 building with a single
charge. For less demanding tasks it has performed great.  


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:54:00 EST 1997
Article: 184349 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: virus alert
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 08:53:57 -0600
Organization: InfiNet
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> >>>Please distribute as widely as possible:
> >>>There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you
receive an email message with the subject line "Deeyenda", DO NOT read
the message, DELETE it immediately. Please read the messages below. 
Some miscreant is sending email under the title "Deeyenda" nationwide,
if you get anything like this DON'T DOWNLOAD THE FILE! It has a virus 
that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it. Please be
careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about.
  FCC WARNING !!!!! -----  DEEYENDA PLAGUES INTERNET ----   The internet 
community has again been plagued by another computer
> >>virus.  This message is being spread throughout the internet, including USENET posting, EMAIL, and other interent activities..  The 
reason for all the attention is because of the nature of this virus and 
the potential security risks it makes.

   Instead of a destructive trojan virus (most viruses!), this virus,
referred to as  Deeyenda Maddick, performs a comprehensive search on
your computer, looking for valuable information, such as email and login
passwords, credit cards, personal info, etc.  The Deeyenda virus also
has the capability  to stay memory resident while running a host of
applications and operation systems, such as Windows 3.11 and Windows 95.
What this means to internet users is that when a login and PASSWORD
are sent to the server, this virus can COPY this information and SEND
IT OUT TO AN UNKNOWN ADDRESS (varies).
 The reason for this warning is because the Deeyenda virus is
virtually undetectable.  Once attacked, your computer will be unsecure. 
Although it can attack any O/S, this virus is most likely to attack 
those users viewing Java enhanced Web Pages (Netscape 2.0+ and Microsoft 
 Internet Explorer 3.0+ which are running on Windows 95) .   Researchers 
at Princeton University have found this virus on a number of World Wide 
Web pages and fear its spread.
   Please pass this on, for we must alert the general public of the
security risks.


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:54:01 EST 1997
Article: 184350 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thin Panel Glue-up
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 09:10:53 -0600
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> "Jim" <jbos@niia.net> wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone know of a good technique for gluing up thin panels? I am making
> >a humidor and need to glue a panel approx 10" x 16" using thin strips of
> >1/4 Spanish Cedar to minimize twisting of the liner.  Any suggestions will
> >be greatly appreciated.
> 
> >Thanks for any help
> >Jim

Sounds like a good application for the cyanacrylic instant glues.
A pieceof wax paper on a flat surface, with a temporary stop on one 
side. Holding pressure on the "free" piece with one hand, apply the 
instant glue to the joint-It will draw down by capillary action. After
ten seconds or less, repeat with the next piece. No cauls, and your 
hands are the most flexible clamping system I have ever seen. I 
basically don't like these "crazy glues" but they do, on occasion work
well within their limitations-Don't we all?

Roger H.
-- 
Life is too important to take seriously.


From rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net Sat Feb 15 11:54:02 EST 1997
Article: 184351 of rec.woodworking
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From: r s herman <rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 09:19:18 -0600
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Dee Spingers response:
I agree- several of us recently completed a round-robin test of .dxf
translators supplied with several CAD systems. A qualified success. The
idea here was to provide a means to exchange sketches, rather than full
blown plans between woodworkers with diverse CAD systems. I still have
the summary result report for anyone interested.

Roger H.


From joeb327@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:03 EST 1997
Article: 184352 of rec.woodworking
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From: joeb327@aol.com (JoeB327)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Freud Dado
Date: 15 Feb 1997 14:20:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184352

I'm interested in one of the Freud 8" dado blades. Is the cost of the
Super dado worth it compared to the Safety dado, how about performance,
does the safety match up to the Super (clean, flat bottoms)?
Thanks,
Joe B Jr.


From who@whatnot.co.uk Sat Feb 15 11:54:04 EST 1997
Article: 184353 of rec.woodworking
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From: who@whatnot.co.uk (John Luby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: virus alert
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 14:23:11 GMT
Message-ID: <3305c634.599341@news.globalnet.co.uk>
References: <3305CE05.32E7@fortwayne.infi.net>
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On Sat, 15 Feb 1997 08:53:57 -0600, r s herman
<rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net> wrote:

>There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you
>receive an email message with the subject line "Deeyenda", DO NOT read
>the message, DELETE it immediately. Please read the messages below. 
>Some miscreant is sending email under the title "Deeyenda" nationwide,
>if you get anything like this DON'T DOWNLOAD THE FILE! It has a virus 
>that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it. Please be
>careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about.
> Researchers at Princeton University have found this virus on a number of World Wide 
> Web pages and fear its spread.

The following message can be found on Princeton's website
(http://www.cs.princeton.edu/sip/deeyenda.html):

Deeyenda Virus Hoax

A report is currently circulating on the Net that we have found a
virus called Deeyenda Maddick which is transmitted via email. 

The message is a hoax. We know of no such virus.



From moosemeat@halcyon.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:05 EST 1997
Article: 184354 of rec.woodworking
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From: moosemeat@halcyon.com (Moosemeat)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: re: clamps
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 06:22:10 PST
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 37
Distribution: na
Message-ID: <moosemeat.947.0032FCFE@halcyon.com>
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Much stuff snipped..........

>Good advice, Bennett.  I confess to still using pipe clamps for gluing up
>panels, but only the 1" size.  3/4" pipe gets bent out of shape far to easily
>when you torgue the clamps.  
>
Much more stuff snipped........

Great God if you apply enough pressure to bend a 3/4 inch pipe you must be a 
strong fellow and your glue joints must be squeezed dry.  Maybe if the pipe 
was twenty feet long it might bend but who is gluing up stuff that spans 20 
feet in an ordinary shop?
Remember:
You can't be too thin
You can't be too rich
And-you can't have too many clamps.
               ..................... 
               .    -MOOSEMEAT-    .
               .....................  
               
           

 
             

             

 
           
                                        


        
    
                  
                      
    


From gingrich@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:06 EST 1997
Article: 184355 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Gingrich <gingrich@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw Dust Collection
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 10:03:10 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <3305D02E.1A74@ix.netcom.com>
References: <5cm8pi$cku@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> <32F0C1E3.27F8@ix.netcom.com> <32F21703.3131D18A@lmco.com>
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To: Kipp Yeakel <kipp.yeakel@lmco.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184355

Kipp Yeakel wrote:
> 
> >         Recently I put stick-on velcro around the saw case opening and cut
> > several "jigsaw puzzle" pieces of 1/8 or 1/4" plywood which velcro so as
> > to close nearly all of the opening.
> >         If you (or anyone else) have any alternatives, I'd like to hear about
> > them.  Thanks.

> 
> I've been thinking about this since I got my Jet contractors saw.
> Closing off the back of the saw with various sliding pieces of pexiglass
> was my first thought. I'm now wondering if enclosing the the entire
> motor/belt assembly to the rear of the saw would be an option. The
> cabinet style saws do this, so why not contractor saws as well?
> 
> --
> Kipp Yeakel : Sr. Assoc. Programmer
> Lockheed Martin Federal Systems
> MD 0604
> Owego, NY 13827
> PH (607)751-3122
> FAX (607)751-6046
> E-MAIL kipp.yeakel@lmco.com

Why not, indeed??  Wish I'd thought of that.  I'm going away for a few
weeks, so I won't be able to try it immed.  If you do, pls let me know
what you think of it, as I will when I can do it.

Thanks.

Frank


From jhoy@tir.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:07 EST 1997
Article: 184356 of rec.woodworking
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From: Janet Hoy <jhoy@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tool Scotch Brace
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 10:04:08 -0500
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This is on the ebay auction at 
http://www.ebay.com/aw/item.cgi?item=zts47643

We also have a harvey on which goes off today.  Please check these out
you can go to search at top of page and then when they take you to
search page type in my e-mail address jhoy@tir.com to bring up sellers
page and you will find it.


From ryanmd@phu198.mms.sb.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:08 EST 1997
Article: 184357 of rec.woodworking
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From: ryanmd@phu198.mms.sb.com (M Dominic Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bosch jigsaw blades
Date: 15 Feb 1997 14:49:05 GMT
Organization: SmithKline Beecham Pharmaceuticals Research & Development
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184357

I would appreciate any feedback on the uses of the various  jigsaw 
blades one gets in the 30 blade kit from Bosch.  Most are fairly
self-evident, but I have no experience with the bimetal blade for eg.

Anyone know for sure what the intended use is?  

Also, the blade names are not all obvious, any help there?

Thanks.
-- 
M. Dominic Ryan   (610)-270-6529  SmithKline Beecham Pharmaceuticals 
ryanmd@mms.sbphrd.com             King of Prussia, PA  


From Plecostamus@Fish.net Sat Feb 15 11:54:09 EST 1997
Article: 184358 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@Fish.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why don't we share plans?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 15:34:35 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3305d712.1132278@news.alt.net>
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On Sat, 15 Feb 1997 09:19:18 -0600, r s herman
<rogerh1@fortwayne.infi.net> wrote:

>Dee Spingers response:
>I agree- several of us recently completed a round-robin test of .dxf
>translators supplied with several CAD systems. A qualified success. The
>idea here was to provide a means to exchange sketches, rather than full
>blown plans between woodworkers with diverse CAD systems. I still have
>the summary result report for anyone interested.
>
>Roger H.
I thought that DXF would be the answer to the CAD type of drawings.  I
would like to see the results if you don't mind.

I also figured that JPEG would handle the picture end very well. It is
compact and available in many shareware/freeware packages.

** JOE **

<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From olek@opct.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:10 EST 1997
Article: 184359 of rec.woodworking
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From: olek <olek@opct.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bisquit joiner purchase--any suggestions?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 07:35:46 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <3305D7D2.2B1C@opct.com>
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Michelle DeMars wrote:
> =

> I am in the market to purchase a bisquit joiner for home use.  Which one =
in your opinion is the best value for the dollar?
> =D8 Thanking you in advance for your suggestions!


I recently purchased the Porter Cable unit.  One of the things I like =

about it is it is very quiet compared to others I have heard (not used).

A feature touted on the Dewalt and a few others is the adjustment of the =

height of the slot.  That is adjusting the location of the slot for =

joining =BE" lumber versus thicker lumber.  On the Dewalt their is a hand =

knob and a "rack and pinion" drive.  On the porter cable you use an =

allen wrench and hand adjustment.  I found the PC solution excellent and =

accurate for the few times I join thicker boards.

Overall I like the quality of the castings and excellent machining in =

the areas where the fence come together,


The best price for the Dewalt I found was $ 199.00 mail order.  The PC =

is regularly advertised at $139.00.  I purchased mine for a little over =

$100.00 at a PC repair center locally.  =



Olek


From olek@opct.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:11 EST 1997
Article: 184360 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news1.best.com!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: olek <olek@opct.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Boatbuilding newsgroup?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 07:46:55 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <3305DA6F.6933@opct.com>
References: <pilgrim-1402970819040001@ppp031-sf2.sirius.com>
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To: Pilgrim <pilgrim@sirius.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184360

Pilgrim wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of a boatbuilding newsgroup?  I am restoring a houseboat
> and need help with finding and working with closed cell foam for
> pontoons.  Many thanks in advance.  Please e-mail to:  pilgrim@sirius.com


rec.boats 
  rec.boats Hobbyists interested in boating. 
  rec.boats.building Boat building, design, restoration, and repair. 
  rec.boats.paddle Talk about any boats with oars, paddles, etc. 
  rec.boats.racing Boat racing.

Also the following provides an excellent resource for finding a 
newsgroup.


  http://inapv.inapg.inra.fr/bertheau/news_index.html


Olek


From london@calzone.oit.unc.edu Sat Feb 15 11:54:13 EST 1997
Article: 184361 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!calzone.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: london@calzone.oit.unc.edu (Larry London)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Is there a place to advertise used woodworking equipment?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 11:05:43 -0500
Organization: SunSITE UNC-CH
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NNTP-Posting-Host: fddisunsite.oit.unc.edu
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184361

Is there a place that woodworkers frequent where I can post my 
ad for the used woodworking equipment I currently have for sale?

I probably assume correctly that rec.woodworking isn't the place for that.

Thanks for any feedback.

london@sunSITE.unc.edu
or
london@nuteknet.com
http://nuteknet.com/london


From mvamm@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:14 EST 1997
Article: 184362 of rec.woodworking
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From: mvamm@aol.com (Mvamm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cherry Substitute
Date: 15 Feb 1997 16:00:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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What can I use in place of cherry that has the closest characteristics
(grain, color, durability, etc...) to cherry and yet is less expensive ? 
I expect I'll need to use stain to match the existing furniture,

I will be building a TV/storage unit for my child's room.

Thanks for any and all suggestions...

JM


From oldtools@aol.com Sat Feb 15 11:54:14 EST 1997
Article: 184363 of rec.woodworking
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From: oldtools@aol.com (Old Tools)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Uses for the Lie Nielson #1 plane??
Date: 15 Feb 1997 16:06:25 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184363

Folks 

I am putting the finishing touches on an article on the uses for the #1
bench plane. I have over the years found several more traditional uses for
the number one but to date have not found many new or modern users. My
question, are all the number ones being made by Lie Nielson sitting on the
shelf or is someone actually using one?  If so, for what?

***

Clarence Blanchard
27 Fickett Rd 
Pownal, ME 04069

Publisher of the Fine Tool Journal, the magazine for the collector and
user of fine hand tools. Check it out on our homepage 
http://www.wowpages.com/ftj/ 



From jonhall@indiana.edu Sat Feb 15 12:13:52 EST 1997
Article: 184364 of rec.woodworking
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From: jonhall@indiana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Marc Adams Videos |||| Where can they be purchased?
Date: 15 Feb 1997 16:18:27 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:184364

>
>              Marc Adams Videos |||| Where can they be purchased?
>                                       
>   From: jim@radix.net (Jim)
>   Reply to: Jim
>   Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 03:26:25 GMT
>   Organization: All USENET -- http://www.SuperNews.com
>   Newsgroups:
>          rec.woodworking
>   Followup to: newsgroup(s)
>
>I am looking for three videos by Marc Adams . Does anyone have an
>address or phone # to obtain these?
>
>        Thanks


From repeters1@aol.com Sat Feb 15 12:13:53 EST 1997
Article: 184365 of rec.woodworking
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From: repeters1@aol.com (Repeters1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jet 14" Band Saw Cool Block Problem
Date: 15 Feb 1997 16:22:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I bought this saw about 8 months ago. It came with cool blocks. Every time
I use this saw for scroll cutting ( I use a 3/16ths  or 1/8th blade ) my
blocks start to melt and I end up with too much play and I can't follow
the lines unless I readjust the blocks again. This means taking them out
and sanding them square again and then putting them back in & readjusting
them. I have seen ads for the Carter bearing block setups but they are in
the price range of around $125.00 to $150.00. 
Does anyone have any suggestions or know where I might find the Carter
units cheaper for I am on a fixed budget (the reason I bought Jet instead
of Delta)? I have contacted Jet & they are going to send me some new cool
blocks but I am not sure I wont have the same problem.
Please send REs to my e-mail addres cause I haven't been getting connected
to AOL very well lately. I can be reached at : re-peters@juno.com   or
                                                            
re-peters@snet.net



From strini@post3.tele.dk Sat Feb 15 12:13:54 EST 1997
Article: 184366 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news-feed.inet.tele.dk!not-for-mail
From: Linda Marie Nygaard <strini@post3.tele.dk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pattern for home shuffleboard court etc.
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 17:37:56 -0800
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Message-ID: <330664F4.2C02@post3.tele.dk>
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We are redecorating our basement in ´40's rumpus room style and I got the 
bright idea to put down a shuffleboard court in our long hallway.I seem 
to remember eons ago there was a Craft Pattern for a shuffleboard court 
and sticks, etc. The court was made of linoleum. Can anyone help an 
expatriate Yank in Denmark???
Linda Nygaard



From MR.ARSON@EXCALIBER.COM Sat Feb 15 12:13:55 EST 1997
Article: 184367 of rec.woodworking
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From: RAY DURSKI <MR.ARSON@EXCALIBER.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: USED BAND SAWS
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 16:23:59 -0500
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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Does anyone know of were I could buy a used or refurbished 14" band
saw.  I am looking for either a JET or a Delta . I can't afford to buy a
new one so I am trying to find a used one. I live in Central New Jersey
If any one has information E-mail me at Mr.arson@Excaliber.com. Thanks
for any help                  Ray


From jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com Sat Feb 15 12:13:56 EST 1997
Article: 184368 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com (John K. Warsaw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bisquit joiner purchase--any suggestions?
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 16:41:46 GMT
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I like the DeWalt because of the fence.  Mine is a couple of years
old, and I haven't had any problems.  I have seen recent posts
complaining about accuracy of the fence in newer versions.  Also, one
of these days I'll get around to removing the metal stud in the dust
chute.  You might want to run a search in DejaNews or another usenet
search engine for more opinions.
--
PLEASE NOTE: My e-mail address has been disguised to defeat automated spam programs.  For my correct address, change  "fakeaddress" to "netside", but leave off the quotation marks.  Sorry for the inconvenience.


From davidy3031@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 15 12:13:56 EST 1997
Article: 184369 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Yoho" <davidy3031@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry Substitute
Date: 15 Feb 1997 16:58:37 GMT
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I've used birch as a substitute with great results. The grain pattern is
very similar and you can stain it to match most cherry finishes with the
exception of natural. I've even found a way to match that fake store bought
"cherry finish" look. Surprising to me people still think real cherry is
red.

David

Mvamm <mvamm@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970215160000.LAA16122@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> What can I use in place of cherry that has the closest characteristics
> (grain, color, durability, etc...) to cherry and yet is less expensive ? 
> I expect I'll need to use stain to match the existing furniture,
> 
> I will be building a TV/storage unit for my child's room.
> 
> Thanks for any and all suggestions...
> 
> JM
> 


From francesrecknor@sprintmail.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:11 EST 1997
Article: 192801 of rec.woodworking
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From: "frances recknor" <francesrecknor@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How about a B&D mitre saw?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 02:17:12 GMT
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I bought my 10" B&D 2 yrs ago and find it the most useful tool in my shop.
It came with a steel blade which I have not yet changed. I connect a
shopvac to the dustport and it takes care of sawdust nicely. 

The one I have is strictly a mitre (chop) saw. Not a compound saw. And I
prefer it this way because it is always true and costs a $100 less if you
dont need fancy compound cuts (you can still do them with some
imagination).

The beauty of these saws is that you need no setup to do your cut. Provided
the work is not too wide.

Go for it!!!
F's Husband--

ranck@joesbar.cc.vt.edu wrote in article
<5h95jh$igq$1@solaris.cc.vt.edu>...
> Hello folks,
>    The local Lowe's has a Black & Decker model 1710 Mitre Saw on sale
> for $135.  Seems like a pretty nice saw for the money.  It looks better
> than the Makita for $139.  Anyone have experiences.opinions on the B&D
> mdoel 1710?
> 
> --
>
****************************************************************************
*
> * Bill Ranck                +1-540-231-3951                   
ranck@vt.edu *   
> *    Virginia Polytechnic Institute & State University, Computing Center 
  *
>
****************************************************************************
*
> 


From eloso@azstarnet.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:12 EST 1997
Article: 192802 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bear" <eloso@azstarnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood for basic jigs
Date: 27 Mar 1997 06:58:53 GMT
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Frank,
Go buy a sheet of 1/4" tempered both sides masonite.  If 
you don't have access to a table saw to make a couple of 
rips then make sure the masonite has clean factory edges. Rip a 6" & 12"
wide strip of the masonite with your circular saw ( the 6" wide strip has
the straight factory edge.  Now using contact cement, glue the two strips
together with the
factory edge of the 6" strip in the middle of the 12" strip. Make sure you
align the two pieces relatively well and allow
the 6" strip to fall into place (don't try to align the edges of 
the two strips). If you don't have a roller, use a piece of 2X4 and a
hammer to marry the two pieces together.  Now take 
you circular saw and using the factory edge of the 6" piece 
of masonite cut the 12" piece.  The edge you just cut is the
edge you will use to align your new guide for ripping or 
cross cutting any material up to 8' long.  This guide will last 
for many years ( my 4' & 8' have lasted for over 15 years) as
long as you keep them dry.  As a bonus, with this type of 
guide you will get less edge tear out because your guide 
goes to the inside edge of the saw blade.  Works great on 
doors.  I use two clamps and align to my cut marks. You 
need to make sure that the 12" width will be wide enough for
the base of your circular saw and adjust as necessary to 
assure that you will have enough material to cut your
alignment edge.



Frank O'Donnell <fod@netcom.com> wrote in article
<fodE7MBJx.HE9@netcom.com>...
> I'm trying to get started in woodworking with a limited
> set of tools.  Recently I invested in a router, but until
> I can afford a table saw I'll have to get by doing cuts
> with handsaws or a circular saw.  I was hoping to make a
> few basic jigs out of wood stock to help make straight
> cuts -- for example, use the circular saw with a guide
> attachment along a 1x4 clamped alongside the project.
> Or do an initial cut on the wide side with the circular
> saw, then use the router with a straight bit to trim in
> to the desired cut line (again using something like a 
> 1x4 as a jig).
> 
> I called a local lumber company that deals in hardwoods
> to ask them what they'd suggest to make a few basic jigs
> out of.  The fellow said I could use maple, although
> he said its straightness may be affected by water
> absorption.  He suggested maybe using 1/2" birch
> plywood ripped into lengths.  Since I don't have a
> jointer or a planer I asked if he could mill whatever
> I buy to get it straight.  He indicated he could, although
> he noted you wouldn't want to run plywood through a planer
> because you'd lose the veneer surface.
> 
> How does all that sound?  Any recommendations on how to
> go about getting some basic straight, stable stock to
> use as jigs?  Thanks in advance for any ideas.
> 
> Frank O'Donnell
> South Pasadena, CA
> fod@netcom.com
> 


From ibdegen2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:14 EST 1997
Article: 192803 of rec.woodworking
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From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
Date: 27 Mar 1997 08:05:31 GMT
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Tom Corey wrote:

>I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
>tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.

Gee, I was thinking of giving my Ryobi detail sander away (a tool I wish I
had never bought) and getting the PC profile sander.  What have you heard,
Tom?  Norm seemed to like it...  Any other comments on the machine?

Braun Degenshein
San Francisco


From chrisr@inreach.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:15 EST 1997
Article: 192804 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 23:52:10 -0800
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Hi folks, Ed LeBlanc has convinced me that running a motor at 220V is in
fact more efficient (cheaper) than running it at 110V, contrary to my
previous post.  I had made some wrong assumptions in my argument and he
showed me my boo-boo.  Thanks Ed, for setting me straight - hope I
didn't mislead anybody.

Chris


From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:17 EST 1997
Article: 192805 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shaper Safety -newbie type
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 02:34:33 -0700
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Jonathan J. Burbank wrote:
> 
> After fighting my router table for too long I got a shaper. I'm looking for
> any advice on living with it safely. The scale of some of even
> the simple shapes as shaper cutters has me a little concerned about
> insuring that all that metal stays put and out of harms and my way.
> Any advise would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance.
> jb


Hi Jonathan,
That's a big question.  I think you're right to be a little hesitant
about the shaper.  I suppose the first thing I'd do is simply practice
setting it up and tearing it down, getting  familiar with everything
that moves.  Once you feel you are comfortable with all the adjustments,
the best thing would be to find a friend who has a lot of experience and
invite him (her) over to spend an hour or two to watch you set it up and
do a few different types of cuts.  In general, a few things to watch out
for are:

-Shaping end grain, or the narrow end of a board.  A sliding table
attachment is great for this, but if you don't have one, make sure to
devise a jig or backer board that will provide enough surface in contact
with the fence to keep the front edge of the workpiece from diving into
the knives (and possibly pulling in some fingers).

-Hand placement.  Not near the front of the board when running pieces
along the fence, for the reason stated above.

-Checking that the knives can move freely before turning it on.

-Making sure you turn it on in the direction of rotation you intended.

-Making sure that the knives are firmly attached to the spindle and
spindle isn't going  anywhere.

-I guess it's important, as with any tool, to have a sense of what
happens when something goes wrong.  With the shaper, when it kicks back,
it tends to turn the piece clockwise(assuming you're running the machine
counter-clockwise) rather than throwing it straight back.  It wants to
pull the piece into the knives, so you should figure hand placement
accordingly.  Pushing jigs, etc aren't a bad idea, as long as the hold
the piece firmly.  Pushing a piece through the shaper with one of those 
long, thin table saw push sticks that just contacts one point is a bad
idea.

I think Taunton Press has a book on shapers, if you don't know someone
who could come over. At least that way, you could look at a few pictures
of various set ups, jigs and hand placement.  I'm sure this book has
information on what to be careful about.

-Colin


From gpotte@IBM.NET Wed Apr  2 11:57:18 EST 1997
Article: 192806 of rec.woodworking
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Bob D. wrote:
>
> In article <tip-250397130603@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu>,
> Tom Perigrin <tip@ai.chem.ohiou.edu> wrote:
> >
> >No,  but the urge does rise when Norm takes an Antique Pine board, and
> >extolls the saw marks on it.  "See these saw mahks? They run up and down,
> >and that means they are from a beam saw and not a circulah saw.   That puts
> >them at least 150 years old.".   And then he runs both faces through his
> >planer.
>
> Ah yes, but if it a rust stained indent from a bent over nail or
> assorted chew marks of dubious origin, those are carefully preserved
> for the exposed face(s) because they "add charactah" to the finished
> product. :-)
>
I heard that in a future program, Norm is going to throw shoes (made of
antique pine, of course) at the camera.


From gpotte@IBM.NET Wed Apr  2 11:57:20 EST 1997
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Rhbuxton wrote:
>
> I run a part time business in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.  I saw
> tree stakes and silt fencing stakes on the weekend to make an extra
> dollar.  These stakes are sawn from red and white oaks.  The logs are cut
> into slabs or cants in two inch thicknesses on a circular sawmill and then
> cut into two by twos with a band saw.  When cutting the cants, I often
> find clear wood that can be as wide as twelve to fourteen inches, and I
> sometimes cut these one inch wide and put the boards in the loft of the
> barn where they air dry for as long as I wish to leave them.  Now my
> question.  Is there any market for boards like this?  They are not kiln
> dried and will only reach about 16 percent moisture in the barn loft.  As
> I saw, it often strikes me as a shame to saw these boards into stakes, but
> if there is no market for them, I will continue to make stakes.  What do
> you think?  Some of them have very nice rays and look really good.  Let me
> know what you think.

I might be interested in coming down and picking up some oak. What kind
of price are you talking about?


From kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 11:57:21 EST 1997
Article: 192808 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kit Davidson <kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wooden Floor in Maple HELP!!!!!
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:10:25 +0000
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In article <5ha8dn$o4u@fountain.mindlink.net>, tom unger
<tom_unger@mindlink.bc.ca> writes
>gd@ppp.com (Geert Deleu) wrote:
>
>>hi,
>>I am busy pasting wood strips of about 1/2 inch thick and 3" width on a 
>>wooden surface to make a wooden floor.
>>I am glueing them on the surface with PolyVinylAcetaat glue...the classic 
>>wood glue. Also am I naling them every 2 feet with 3 nails!
>>Now here comes the problem: When i glue and nail them  on the underground 
>>everything seems normal, the joints are closed and the boards are flat, 
>>BUT afther about 3 hours the joints come open and the boards begin to 
>>curl in there width (not there length) if you could look at the boards in 
>>section they would look like a U-shape...
>>Can someone please help I am desperated, I have to do another 70 square 
>>meters and don't want to get the same result!!!!!
>>BTW: temp in room=18°Celsius and normal humidity, wood has been dried 
>>until there was only 7% of moisture left...
>
>>If you know the solution email me NOW!!!!!
>
>I, also, am not a flooring expert.  But...you should not be gluing
>these boards down.  They should be tongue and grooved and nailed on
>one side only (ever seen those funky floor nailers you hit with a
>mallet? they are at an angle so that when you hit them the board gets
>tapped in tight and the the air cylinder fires nailing it there).
>This allows the wood to shrink and expand (which it will). 
>
>You probably need some more detailed advice so my advice is this: stop
>what you're doing and get some advice!
>--
>Tom
>
>========================================
>more is better
>too much is just enough
>NO MONEY SPENT ON TOOLS IS WASTED
>
>tom_unger@mindlink.bc.ca
>========================================
>
Tongue and Groove flooring must never be glued. The previous
correspondents are correct. Use secret nailing through the tongues and
allow a width-wise expansion gap beneath the skirting boards, There will
be movement as the flooring adjusts to the ambient humidity. If you use
glue and prevent movement the boards will take their only course and
buckle
-- 
Kit Davidson


From montom@ica.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:22 EST 1997
Article: 192809 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3339F438.E2D@ica.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 23:14:48 -0500
From: Monika & Tomek Kuflewski <montom@ica.net>
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Subject: How to use beeswax to finish?
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We are looking for the way to create beeswax finish to get this
"Mexican" look on bare wood.

e-mail: montom@ica.net



From vbaron@lafn.org Wed Apr  2 11:57:24 EST 1997
Article: 192810 of rec.woodworking
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From: vbaron@lafn.org (Victor G. Baron)
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Subject: Cleaning waterstone
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I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? It just happened
this evening so I haven't had time to try anything. Had several ideas
on my own tho,
1) Just let it soak in water
2) Use waterless hand cleaner to dissolve the gunk and let the water
float it away
3) Lap the stone on glass with ??? grit wet/dry paper

Any thoughts? Hopefully I haven't ruined the stone. Sure like the edge
it puts on a plane iron.

Thanx,

Vic Baron



From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:25 EST 1997
Article: 192811 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joint edge on planer?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 02:56:56 -0700
Organization: Rt66.COM, New Mexico #1 ISP
Lines: 28
Distribution: world
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DMarlen wrote:
> 
> I wrote a question to this newsgroup about creating a straight edge along
> a side of a piece of wood that has two rough edges.  Suggestions focused
> on tacking the board to a straightedge and run the straightedge along the
> fence on the tablesaw, or run the router along it.
> 
> But, how about this....
> 
> What if you put the board into the planer on edge?  I know it might sound
> dangerous.  So you couldn't do it on every piece.  But if it was mostly
> straight; just rough, couldn't you put it on edge and have the rollers
> hold it steady and let the planer take off just a little bit.  Then do it
> again.  And again.  Then turn it over and do the other edge. Would this
> work?  I imagine the biggest problem would be if the wood were to fall
> over sideways.  But I don't think it would do that if the rollers were
> holding it down.
> 
> Just a thought.... but I'd like to hear your thoughts.
> 
> David.


Assuming the piece didn't simply fall over (or come shooting back out at
you at 100,000 miles per hour), you wouldn't end up with a straight edge
on either side because you need at least one straight edge to reference
off the bed of the planer.
-Colin


From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:27 EST 1997
Article: 192812 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointer smoothness??
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 02:41:54 -0700
Organization: Rt66.COM, New Mexico #1 ISP
Lines: 28
Distribution: world
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Philip Procter wrote:
> 
> damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:
> 
> >I jointed some oak boards and they have "wavey" spots left from the
> >knives.  These are the same I've seen on planers, but more pronounced.
> >Am I feeding to fast?  Not enough down pressure? Is something wrong with
> >the jointer?  These are brand new knives.   I did not notice the problem
> >with Pine.
> >I have a 3 knive system on a 6" Powermatic 54 Jointer.
> 
> >Side note:  I ripped the boards with a borrowed Forrest blade and I
> >can't believe the glass edge that thing leaves!
> 
> >Thanks
> >Damian Drewek
> >ddrewek@qgraph.com
> 
> You fail to note how pronounced the waves are. I've seen this type of
> pattern on virtually every machine jointed board. That's why I use a
> hand plane.
> 
> Philip


This is a sign that one knife is higher than the others.  Try resetting
your knives, and see if that helps.
-Colin


From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:28 EST 1997
Article: 192813 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 02:53:15 -0700
Organization: Rt66.COM, New Mexico #1 ISP
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bcompton wrote:
> 
> It seems particle board (various types) and plywood is the predominate
> building material for cabinet boxes. Does anyone use hardwood for the
> boxes.
> 
> Other than expense why use plywood or particle board if you can use the
> real stuff?
> 
> I'm an amateur woodworker and would appreciate all comments.


Hi Bill,
For kitchen cabinet grade stuff, I doubt anyone is using hardwood
because, as you mentioned the expense would be too great, and the labor
would be prohibitive.  

As far as the other reasons, plywood and other sheet goods are more
stable, more uniform, and make better substrates for things like counter
tops.  I guess the other thing that comes to mind is that the carcasses
are mostly hidden behind doors and drawers, so it seems like an awful
waste of precious hardwoods.  Kind of like framing your house in walnut,
nice to know you used good stuff, but what's the point if fir works just
as well, and no one will ever see it?
-Colin


From aromero@castaway.cc.uwf.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:28 EST 1997
Article: 192814 of rec.woodworking
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From: aromero <aromero@castaway.cc.uwf.edu>
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Subject: Re: Re : new idea
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:07:27 +0000
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ALL OF YOU WHO CANNOT LIMIT YOUR POSTS TO YOUR OWN NEWS GROUPS SHOUD BE
F@$#ING SHOT!  QUIT CROSS POSTING  THIS CRAP!!!!!
  Thank You and I am sory for yelling


From jallen@landmark.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:29 EST 1997
Article: 192815 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Allen" <jallen@landmark.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch router: bit too tight?
Date: 26 Mar 1997 21:34:03 GMT
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My Ryobi RE600 does the exact same thing.  I just assumed this was a flaw
in the collet design.

JDSchuster <jdschuster@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970326061401.BAA13732@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Bosch routers have a two stage release.  You loosen some and it becomes
> easy to turn and then tightens again.  Use the wrench and keep on turning
> until it is real loose and you can extract the bit.  
> 
> Bosch really ought to make this clear.  I asked the same question when I
> got my 1615.
> 
> Jeff
> Jeff Schuster
> 


From wasmith@gte.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:30 EST 1997
Article: 192816 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 06:01:28 -0600
From: wasmith@gte.net
Subject: Tanso Hardware
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859463237.22942@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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I am interested in purchasing Tansu hardware through mail order. I am
already aware of Hida Tool, in California. Do any of you know of other
mail order suppliers of Tansu hardware?

Thanx!

Bill

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:31 EST 1997
Article: 192817 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cutting out country hearts- scroll saw vs router
Message-ID: <8D4B494.0233014A73.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 97 19:32:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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Use the Saw to cut the hearts-Then a roundover bit to smooth out the
heart edges,,In my opinion 99% of Scrollsawn crafts look unfinished cuz
no router used on edges..Furthermore the ones ive seen look like
somebody was in a big hurry to slap em together...Just my 2c
                              LW

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:33 EST 1997
Article: 192818 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood for basic jigs
Message-ID: <8D4B49B.0233014A74.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 97 19:39:00 -0600
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First off lemme suggest usin the best wood there is-FREE WOOD! yessiree!
Oak,Maple,etc can all be found languishing at the curbside waitin for
Mr Trashman to take it away; If you cant find This free wood source then
yer not lookin hard enuff!!hhehe..Hardwood like OAK would work-and jigs
aint that critical due to stacked tolerances thatll throw you off
anyway. You can buy Surfaced Hrdwd to build

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From jvreeland@mho.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:33 EST 1997
Article: 192819 of rec.woodworking
From: "John Vreeland" <jvreeland@mho.net>
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
References: <19970325173100.MAA24637@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Message-ID: <01bc3947$c1959c00$49689cce@jvreeland.mho.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192819

My Delta runs fine on a 20 amp 115 volt circuit.  The motor says it is 14
amps, 1.5 HP.

ROBMURR <robmurr@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970325173100.MAA24637@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I want to purchase a Jet or Delta contractor saw. I need to know
> if either of these will run OK on a 20 amp curcuit. Nothing else is
> on this curcuit in the garage and I would like to use it or should I
> increase it to 30 amps?This would be on 115volts. My 100amp
> breaker box is full already...what is my least expensive and least
> extensive solution? thanks!
> 
> 


From mposter@woodweb.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:34 EST 1997
Article: 192820 of rec.woodworking
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From: mposter@woodweb.com (Michael Poster)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Currently at WOODWEB - Making the Switch to Water-Base
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:25:53 GMT
Organization: Eastern Pennsylvania Internet eXchange
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Making the Switch to Water-Base

Our resident finishing columnist Rick Hill offers advice on switching
>from  solvent based finishes to water based finishes.

http://www.woodweb.com/rh-water.html
WOODWEB
http://www.woodweb.com


From wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:35 EST 1997
Article: 192821 of rec.woodworking
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From: William Pav <wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:12:40 -0500
Organization: Digital Network Systems
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Mark Young wrote:
> 
> I noticed the Ryobi AND the DeWalt have small dust/chip ports with
> obstructed paths; my Ryobi clogs consistently here, and I would think
> the DeWalt would also, though Ryyobi comes with a collection bag,
> whereas the DeWalt doesn't (to my knowledge).

My DeWalt came with a dust bag, and a 1" vacuum hose adapter...
I've noticed dust port jamming with bag and no bag - I haven't tried
using the vacuum option yet - simply because I don't have the 1" hose.
It would seem to me that the vacuum option wouls solve the problem by
'actively' removing the wood chips instead of relying on the cutter
head to eject them?!?
> 
> Anyone else have these gripes? I did notice since my last post about the
> angular adjustment of fences that the Ryobi seems to be the only one on
> the market that allows downward angular adjustment (down to 45 degrees)
> as well as upward... e.g. 135 degrees of motion); I think DeWalt only
> goes from 90 (fence pointing straight out) to 0 (90 degrees range of
> setting positions).

Yes, DeWalt is 0-90, for 135, I attach an auxilliary fence to the
tool's fence (the aux-fence is a piece of 2x2 that screws to the
tool fence. This changes the fence from 0-90 to 90-180.

> 
> Mark Young                              (newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
> acoustic@up.net
> http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972

-- 
Sorry about the kludged return address...
To reply to me, remove the "no_junk_mail" from:

          wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com


From wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:36 EST 1997
Article: 192822 of rec.woodworking
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From: William Pav <wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of this "club"?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:12:35 -0500
Organization: Digital Network Systems
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Hadji wrote:
> 
> Curt Larson (larson.curtis@mcleod.net) wrote:
> : In article <332b5c57.1576695@news.alt.net>, Plecostamus@Fish.net wrote:
> 
> : > I recieved an invitation to join the "Handyman Club of America" in the
> : > mail.  As a charter member no less. This thing kinda stinks up my
> : > house in my opinion.  Anyone else have any knowledge of this??
> : >
> 
> : I've received no less than four "Charter Member" offers over the last
> : several years.  Put it where you put the rest of the junk mail.
> 
> : Curt
> 
> I've been getting "Charter Member" offers as well.  I read the letter that
> came with it and I think that something sounds really fishy about the deal.
> Nobody just gives tools away.
> 
> --

Three years ago, my wife joined Handyman Club of America as a charter
member - she received none of the benefits (free stuff), except the
one year subscription to the magazine. After a year - she quit.

Then two weeks ago, I got an invitation to join as a charter member.
Huh? How doesn;t charter membership imply that the club is new and that
one who joins early on is a charter member? Anyway, long story short,
the invitation joined the unsolicited $7,500 credit limit, 19.9% APR
credit card offers in the recycle bin...

On a somewhat related topic - any of those unsolicited offers -
like credit cards, clubs, etc. that I recieve that has a postage-paid
envelop enclosed - I take the entire contents (including the original
envelope), and put it in the postage-paid envelope and send it
back to the company. I usually write something nasty on the 
'acceptance' card - telling them where to put their trash.

-- 
Sorry about the kludged return address...
To reply to me, remove the "no_junk_mail" from:

          wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com


From strockid@river.it.gvsu.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:37 EST 1997
Article: 192823 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Daniel A. Strockis" <strockid@river.it.gvsu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dewalt CMS
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:24:31 -0500
Organization: Grand Valley State University
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     I am interested in purchaxing the Dewalt CMS and I was wondering if
$348 is a high price for this saw...no accessories.  this is the price at
the Home Depot.  Does this sound like a good buy or can i find it cheaper
somewhere else?


                                   Thanks

                                            Dan



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:38 EST 1997
Article: 192824 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:50:58 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:

;In article <19970323142001.JAA21368@ladder01.news.aol.com>
acroii@aol.com writes:
;>From: acroii@aol.com
;>Subject: Norm's Technique
;>Date: 23 Mar 1997 14:20:48 GMT


;>e a good place to toss in a couple biscuits, but he didn't.

;Tom, PLEASE hit return once in awhile!

;>Would anyone really shoot holes in the front of a nice furniture
piece?

;Well, yes!  Actually, Norm USUALLY uses an 18g brad nailer that makes
pretty 
;little holes, that most people wouldn't notice.  This is the 'norm'
for 
;installing trim, also.

;Although I personally would never do that, it's common.  Older stuff,
for 
;example, tended to use a LOT of nails.

;>How would they be filled to make them blend in?

;They wouldn't.  The holes are little.  Using some sort of filler
would 
;probably make them stand out more.

;Rich

Rich I took a look at the artical in  FWW ,the one with the sliding
dovetail edge molding ,that is .
One the whole dont you think it was a little strange ? The top was
constructed more like a carcase base ,ie through dove tails .To me
personally to treat the carcase top in this manner seemed
strange,through dovetails with a xgrain molding outboard of that .As
far as fine woodworking goes this approach is not standard ,normal
construction would either be with the dovetails veneered over and the
molding glued and or nailed to the side [this technique of attaching
the could be used to advantage in this case]or preferably a solid
overlapping top with molded edges attached mechanically.
mjh 



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:39 EST 1997
Article: 192825 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hinges
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:53:47 GMT
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kturner@direct.ca (keith turner) wrote:

;I have built a corner unit using "Norm's" plans,but I cannot find any
;4" colonial style hinges (either brass or black steel) any place.
; If someone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
;                        Thanks 
;                              Keith

Kieth  try Horton brassses Nooks hill rd ,cromwell ,conn
                           mjh



From dehart@dehartusa.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:40 EST 1997
Article: 192826 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Anthony DeHart" <dehart@dehartusa.com>
Subject: PERFECTIONIST TOOLMAKERS WANTED
Message-ID: <01bc37e0$27488f80$1fe464ce@dehart.twave.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 12:42:05 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu misc.jobs.offered:2340847 rec.woodworking:192826 sci.engr.micromachining:360

DeHart Tooling Components located in Hickory, North Carolina is hiring
select individuals with extremely high performance standards and above
average skills in cnc machine tool operations and cutting tool design
and manufacture. Only experiencedapplicants seeking permanent long
term employment apply !!! Must be dedicated team player and have a 
strong desire to be part of a leading company.

e-mail resume to: Anthony DeHart - dehart@dehartusa.com

Visit our web site to learn more about the company.
http://www.dehartusa.com

Call 704-322-1734 or fax 704-327-4845

We are seeking to fill this position immediately !!

If you have knowledge of other individuals who may qualify, please inform
them of this opportunity.





From wdwrk2@nlenx.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:41 EST 1997
Article: 192827 of rec.woodworking
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From: wdwrk2@nlenx.com (tom)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Queen Anne Leg Pattern
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:52:10 GMT
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Help!

I want to start carving my own queen anne legs  and I want to band saw

out the rough shape first.  So, I need a pattern to saw to.  The
problem is I cannot find a pattern.  I have auto sketch and would like
a digital plan that I could use with auto sketch.  Does anyone know
where I could find an auto sketch pattern?  Or a hard pattern that I
could use roughing out the leg?


					Tom
					wdwrk2@nlenx,com


From dehart@dehartusa.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:41 EST 1997
Article: 192828 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Anthony DeHart" <dehart@dehartusa.com>
Subject: Cutting Tool Mfg  For Woodworking Seeks Machinist
Message-ID: <01bc3ab7$516486a0$2be464ce@dehart.twave.net>
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DeHart Tooling Components located in Hickory, North Carolina is hiring
select individuals with extremely high performance standards and above
average skills in cnc machine tool operations and cutting tool design
and manufacture. Only experiencedapplicants seeking permanent long
term employment apply !!! Must be dedicated team player and have a 
strong desire to be part of a leading company.

e-mail resume to: Anthony DeHart - dehart@dehartusa.com

Visit our web site to learn more about the company.
http://www.dehartusa.com

Call 704-322-1734 or fax 704-327-4845

We are seeking to fill this position immediately !!

If you have knowledge of other individuals who may qualify, please inform
them of this opportunity.







From surfgeo@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:42 EST 1997
Article: 192829 of rec.woodworking
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From: surfgeo@aol.com (SURFGEO)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: heirloom rocking horses
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:07:57 GMT
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a very detailed set of plans for a high quality heirloom, carousel style
rocking horse.  see picture and details at 
http://members.aol.com./surfgeo/gibrock.html


From specwood@INDIRECT.COM Wed Apr  2 11:57:43 EST 1997
Article: 192830 of rec.woodworking
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From: "GEORGE M. KAZAKA" <specwood@INDIRECT.COM>
Subject: Re: MDF
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192830

----------
> From: EClark2918 <eclark2918@aol.com>
> To: WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> Subject: MDF
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 5:32 PM
>
> I know what it is and have worked with it but what does MDF stand for?

"Medium Density Fiberboard"


From firstname.lastname@ab.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:44 EST 1997
Article: 192831 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe Enduser <firstname.lastname@ab.com>
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Subject: Re: Bending Wood
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Thanks Ken, that sounds like a good idea.


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:45 EST 1997
Article: 192832 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
Date: 27 Mar 1997 06:15:18 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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About a year ago, one of the wood rags (I think it may have been BH&G's 
Wood, so take it for what it's worth) stated that the 16" Grizzly and the 
14" Jet had brought their quality up to the point where they were a 
legitimate alternative to the 14" Delta.  Note, this was not the 14" or 
15" Grizzly but the 16".  This was a follow on to an eval they had done 
on bandsaw which I didn't see.  From the tone of the article, it sounded 
as if the Grizzly had not been in the same class as the Delta at the time 
of the original article.  Therefore, Wood (or whomever) felt the need to 
publish a correction.

rhg


In article <5h7kg3$6mk@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>,
Marty Escarcega <opencon@primenet.com> wrote:
>Good service. Decent machine. I think Chuck Ring might have somethin' to tell 
>ya about them....CHUCK?
>
>Marty
>
>In article <19970324.190230.DRIEGLE@vunet.vinu.edu>, Daryle Riegle 
><DRIEGLE@VUNET.VINU.EDU> wrote:
>>Should I believe that the 16 inch or 18 inch Grizzly bandsaw
>>are the best saws on the market? What kind of problems can
>>I expect? I could use some advice before spending lots of
>>money.




From RJ2@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:46 EST 1997
Article: 192833 of rec.woodworking
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From: "RJ DiCerb" <RJ2@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fay-Eagan Woodlathe
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:36:56 GMT
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    Looking for a manual for a fay eagan400  woodlathe.    


From RJ2@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:47 EST 1997
Article: 192834 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: J-line table saw
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:38:11 GMT
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   Need an arbor nut supplier.  Thanks


From firstname.lastname@ab.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:47 EST 1997
Article: 192835 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe Enduser <firstname.lastname@ab.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source for Power Switches?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:30:20 -0500
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Dan,

The latest catalog from delta (the production tools 
one) has the power switches listed in the back.  
However, being from delta you will need to get a 
line of credit on your house first.  Just something 
to look into.


Mark



mark.ruetty@ab.com


From davidsloan@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:49 EST 1997
Article: 192836 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidsloan@aol.com (DavidSloan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:48:00 GMT
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<<
JPietrella writes
> I have just built a new wood working bench which is maple with a red oak
> end cap.  I am trying to figure out what I should use for a finish.  Any
> suggestions???????
>>

For a workbench finish I'm partial to an oil-varnish product called
WATERLOX. 
  

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker magazine


From spectsci@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:50 EST 1997
Article: 192837 of rec.woodworking
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From: spectsci@mindspring.com (Robert C. Martin, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Source for Miniature Barrel Hinges
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:59:36 GMT
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This is a repost of a message I thought I had posted last night but
which never appeared on my server - sorry if its a duplicate.

I am looking for a source of miniature barrel hinges of the type
frequently used for making wooden boxes for turned pens.  I plan to
purchase them in lots of 100 pairs and would appreciate information on
sources of supply.  HUT Products offer them for $4.95 for a package of
10 with a 20% discount for orders of one hundred - does anyone know of
a better price.

I would appreciate replies by email from those who see this in
rec.woodworking since I only read rec.crafts.woodturning on a regular
basis (can't keep up with all of the posts in rec.woodworking).

BTW, I am not trying to make my own pen boxes and would appreciate
information on sources for wooden pen boxes - so far, the best prices
I have found are from Bonhams.

Thanks in advance.


Bob Martin     | The principal difference between genius and
Marietta, GA   | stupidity is that there are limits to genius!


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:51 EST 1997
Article: 192838 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Attach drawer sides to fronts with sliding dovetail?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 00:48:32 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
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In article <33392C89.7941@llnl.gov>, Roger Van Maren vanmaren2@llnl.gov 
says...

>. . .These cabinets are
>for 2 non-woodworking workbenches for my new shop. A woodworking bench
>is next on the list of things to do. (I think I'm developing an
>addiction to sawdust!) I plan on having these benches for the next 30 or
>40 years and decided . . . 
>It seemed unnecessary to build a 4 sided
>1/2" box and then attach a 3/4" false front for the overlay. How would
>you construct these drawers? They will be seeing heavy loads so the
>stronger the better.

You might consider finger joints. Sliding dovetails are OK on small desk 
drawers but I think that they have serious drawbacks on a drawer that's 
going to be heavily loaded. 

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:52 EST 1997
Article: 192839 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
Date: 27 Mar 1997 06:54:34 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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I've had the PC sander for about 6 mo.  I've worked the hell out of it 
and it seems to be holding up fine.  It's not terribly aggressive but for 
what I use it for, I'm satisfied.  The triangle pads work fine, the 
problem is with the contour sanding.  It's very easy to wear through the 
adhesive backed paper and leave a black smudge from the rubber contour 
backing piece.  With a little fussing, it does the job on raised pannels 
and cope and stick frames.  I also sand 4" x 8" cutouts in the center of 
8" x 16" x 3/4 ply using the triangle pads and it works fine.

rhg

I wear hearing protection when I use it.  It has, what I consider to be, 
any annoying, high-pitched whine.

>>I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
>>tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
>
>Gee, I was thinking of giving my Ryobi detail sander away (a tool I wish I
>had never bought) and getting the PC profile sander.  What have you heard,
>Tom?  Norm seemed to like it...  Any other comments on the machine?
>
>Braun Degenshein
>San Francisco




From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:53 EST 1997
Article: 192840 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 15"planers-which?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 06:44:38 -0700
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Of that trio, I believe the Delta is the only one that adjusts thickness 
by raising and lowering the cutter head.  With the fixed height bed, it 
should be easier to design extensions for the infeed and outfeed tables.
Something to consider.  Right now I have only a 12" portable but the 
Delta is on my wish list unless I hear something bad about it.

rhg


In article <19970327033401.WAA08803@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
Rhody0226 <rhody0226@aol.com> wrote:
>I am deciding between Jet, Powermatic, and Delta 15 inch planers, any
>advice would be much appreciated.




From fphowell@earthink.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:54 EST 1997
Article: 192841 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Howell <fphowell@earthink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Rebate?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 05:34:15 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
Lines: 33
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BRADSTRUM wrote:
> 
> In article <33395843.18833852@news.netins.net>, E or K <kdka@netins.net> wrote:
> >On 25 Mar 1997 03:01:34 GMT, FHNJ90A@prodigy.com (Mr. R A. Edwards)
> >wrote:
> >
> >>I recently purchased a Delta bandsaw from Trendlines. There is a $50
> >>rebate thru Delta on this model but Trendlines,even after my call, has
> >>failed to send me a rebate form. Does anyone know how I can get one
> >>thru the internet or a phone # at Delta I might try?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Ralph Edwards  FHNJ90A@prodigy.com
> >
> >
> >FWIW I had the same problem with a Delta planer that I purchased from
> >Trendlines.  I called them twice and finally got the rebate form and
> >proof of purchase.  It seems as though Trendlines is trying to keep
> >the rebate for themselves!  E.
> 
> I am also waiting for my Delta rebate form from Trendlines. You should
> have heard what they told me the first time I called them because
> I hadn't received it yet. I am going to think long and hard before
> buying anything from Trenlines again. My Delta puchase from Trendlines
> was also a planer.
> 
> Todd Bradstrum

FWIW When I ordered my Delta contractor saw from Tool Crib of the North,
there was a fifty dollar rebate. Tool Crib sent the paper work to Delta
and I received my rebate within 3 weeks after delivery of the saw.

Frank Howell


From winstead@eecs.tulane.edu Wed Apr  2 11:57:55 EST 1997
Article: 192842 of rec.woodworking
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From: winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:12:16 -0600
Organization: Tulane University
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Hi there.

I'm really new to woodworking and I'm considering the purchase of a table 
saw.  I've read the article in this month's FWW, and it didn't help me 
clear up my confusion very much.  Here's where I stand:

The Ryobi looks really, really nice.  The sliding table and the built-in 
router mounting make this really appealing.  As far as precision goes, I 
have heard very few complaints.  However, this saw seems to get a bad rap 
around here.

The Grizzly leaves me with too many questions.  I have heard many 
complaints about the fence, and I'd rather not have to deal with mail-order 
companies if I don't have to.

I've been seeing used Delta Unisaws around here in the newspaper for the 
same price as the Grizzly or Ryobi, but some people tell me that Delta is 
worthless.  This really confused me, because I've never heard a bad word 
about Delta in rec.ww.

So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.

Thanks,
Ted

-- 
Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 






From herveus@access4.digex.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:56 EST 1997
Article: 192843 of rec.woodworking
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From: herveus@access4.digex.net (Michael and MJ Houghton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Woodworking Series
Date: 27 Mar 1997 09:35:21 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications USA: 800-969-9090
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In article <5gajci$352@bartlett.televar.com>,
John Schneider  <jackfir@televar.com> wrote:
>I have an ad for the Time Life Woodworking series. Is there anyone out there that has 
>purchased it. Is it as good as advertized? I have learned a great deal by reading about my 
>favorite hobby and would like to learn more. Some of the router jigs in the advertisement 
>have save me some real headaches even in the last two days.
>
>

I have seen the ads on TV. Big turn-off. I really like the part where you 
see a board with a number of shallow holes in it (as if to make a coat rack).
The voice-over speaks of the "whine of the drill" or something 
pseudo-romantic while we see what is obviously a hand-held electric drill 
being weilded rather flippantly. The operator smacks the drill into one of
the holes and gouges out about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of stuff and immediately
races (yes, it looks like they are racing) to the next hole to repeat. *blech*


From herveus@access4.digex.net Wed Apr  2 11:57:57 EST 1997
Article: 192844 of rec.woodworking
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From: herveus@access4.digex.net (Michael and MJ Houghton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
Date: 27 Mar 1997 09:42:54 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications USA: 800-969-9090
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References: <01bc368a$5b1c4f60$a6cdb7c7@steveg> <3335BCD9.381E@erols.com> <01bc38e8$e5d15280$120a60cf@micron> <33384BAB.4379@bah.com>
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In article <33384BAB.4379@bah.com>, Charlie Rodgers  <rodgersc@bah.com> wrote:
>David and Laura wrote:
>> 
>> Are there any good places SOUTH of Washington DC?  I am in S. MD and find
>> it hard to get any nice wood/tools in my area.
>> 
>> David
>
>While I haven't personally been there, I've been told by several people 
>that Dyson's Lumber on Rt 5 in Great Mills has a good selection of wood.  
>Also been told that if you have access to Pax River, the wood hobby shop 
>there is top-rate.  Rough hardwood lumber at about 1/2 the off-base price 
>and they will plane it for only $0.10/lf.
>HTH, Charlie

Maryland Forest Products in Nanjemoy (right on the Potomac) is a small
sawmill that sells rough cut, kiln-dried lumber. I bought some maple, beech,
and cherry there and have been happy with it so far. He also had oak, ash,
hickory and black walnut in stock that I know of. His price list includes
other species including elm, gum, persimmon, birch, cedar...

Michael


From boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 11:57:59 EST 1997
Article: 192845 of rec.woodworking
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From: boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jointers...Delta or Jet or someone else
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:44:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I'm looking to purchase a jointer in the near future and I have no
idea which brand to go with. A maintanence man at work said that
Jet machines don't last very long. Is this true? Do all jointers have 
to have there tables shimmed eventually? If anyone can steer me
in the right direction I would appreciate it . Thanks

 boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com


From zbucky@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:00 EST 1997
Article: 192846 of rec.woodworking
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From: zbucky@aol.com (Z Bucky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: router table plans
Date: 27 Mar 1997 14:59:15 GMT
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American Woodworker Feb 1992.  Ultimate router table plans, with picture
on the cover.


From nahd@lucent.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:00 EST 1997
Article: 192847 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:44:32 -0600
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SJ14280 wrote:
> 
> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
> are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
> keyword for these cars?  Please help!

Try your local hobby store.  I bought a book that gave step by step
instructions on how to build the cars and how to build them to go
fast.  They also sell complete kits that include special axles,
wheels, and the weights.

One thing to keep in mind and this is very difficult especially if
you're a competitive person like me.  This is supposed to be a project
for the kids.  When I helped my two nephews build their cars, they
designed them and I helped them cut the cars out on my bandsaw.  I also
let them pick the color and do all the painting.  Plastic model paint
is really cool because you can get metallic finishes and it has a 
real nice gloss.  I took care of polishing the axles and weighting
the cars.

Our cars won the race the second time that we made them.  There were
plenty of Dad's that built some really nice cars, but you could tell
that the kid had nothing to do with it.  It kind of defeats the whole
purpose of the thing.  It's up to you.

On a side note, bring plenty of tools because there will be plenty
of kids who have broken cars or cars that weigh too much.  One kid
had a car that was about 3oz. too heavy.  I had to drill about 20
holes in the bottom of the car in order for it to be able to be in
the race.

It's a really cool experience.  Have fun!

Email me if you need any help.

Andy


From cicutti@philly.infi.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:01 EST 1997
Article: 192848 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Cicutti" <cicutti@philly.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router table plans
Date: 27 Mar 1997 07:20:59 GMT
Organization: DC Printing
Lines: 21
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I am currently building a router table from plans I got from New Yankee
Workshop television show. I also looked at issue #44 of American Woodworker
magazine. This is the router table Norm used to base his design on in his
show. After comparing both I liked Norm's the best.

Few things in life are free. I paid 29.95 for the video tape and plans from
NYW. The issue of AWW cost $4.50. If you check the schedule you might find
out when they are broadcasting the router table show again on NYW but the
plans that come with the tape make buying and laying out the wood for
cutting easy.

If interested I will sell you the tape and plans when I am finished. I
don't have the address in front of me now when you can call but I can
provide you with that info also.

Charles Andre <candre@nemonet.com> wrote in article
<01bc3a6a$249acb40$18b08acd@candre.nemonet.com>...
> I'm looking for a set of plans for a router table(preferably free). Any
> help would be appreciated.
> 
> 


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:02 EST 1997
Article: 192849 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: 27 Mar 1997 08:09:11 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <5he2in$7s4@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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Most folks generate a bunch of grass clippings they don't know what to do 
with.  Grass clippings have more than enough nitrogen to go with their 
carbon (the reverse of the sawdust) so mixing a little sawdust with grass 
clippings comes out about right.  Sawdust also helps keep the grass 
clippings from matting together and setting up anaerobic conditions which 
tends to make for a foul smelling mess.  The previous post was absolutely 
correct that sawdust by itself isn't much of a fertilizer and will suck 
up all the available nitrogen in the process of decomposing.  Eventually, 
most of this nitrogen will be returned to the soil.

rhg

In article <33383735.4F75@genesisnetwork.net>,
Jerry Morrison  <lwm@genesisnetwork.net> wrote:
>Clyde E Bowman III wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone come up with some other ideas for sawdust use?
>> 
>> - With watered down glue added makes great puppet parts.
>> 
>> - in a metal trash can with pottery a great primitive kiln.
>> 
>> - great in composting
>> 
>> --
>> ********************************************************************
>> *             ____  _   _ ____  _____ _ ____    _   _ ____  _ _ _  *
>> *            / ___|| | | |  _ \|  ___( ) ___|  | | | |  _ \| | | | *
>> *     ^^^^\  \___ \| | | | |_) | |_  |/\___ \  | | | | |_) | | | | *
>> *  .o   *     ___) | |_| |  _ <|  _|    ___) | | |_| |  __/| | | | *
>> * .o   -|-'  |____/ \___/|_| \_\_|     |____/   \___/|_|   (_|_|_) *
>> *.o    / Z                cebowman@rex.imperium.net                *
>> *.-~. ------              ceb3pl@eagle.stark.k12.oh                *
>> * ^^^^^-              http://www.imperium.net/~cebowman            *
>> ********************************************************************
>
>  I don't know about the first two ideas but I will comment on using
>sawdust in compost. The amount of energy consumed in decomposing
>sawdust, especially hardwood sawdust leaves the compost deficient in
>nitrogen, as a matter of fact it uses so much that it won't compost well
>at all on it's own. It will, if you add high nitrogen fertilizer along
>with your sawdust. I don't know what proportions you would use, maybe
>someone knows and can enlighten us.
>  I found this out when I added oak sawdust to a garden area for my wife
>one year. Her garden wouldn't even produce weeds. Won't go into the
>trouble I was in for that mistake.
>
>Still Learning after all these years,
>Jerry Morrison




From mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:03 EST 1997
Article: 192850 of rec.woodworking
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From: mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Biscuit dust guard
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:19:39 -0800
Organization: Bell Atlantic Internet Solutions
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Boy I don't understand?  I've had mine Dewalt about 6 months now and used 
it a lot!  My dust collector works perfect!!


From mhoeting@sfasu.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:04 EST 1997
Article: 192851 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: mhoeting@sfasu.edu (Mark A. Hoeting)
Subject: Phone Number for Woodworkers Warehouse
Message-ID: <31b7cd$91133.5d@news.sfasu.edu>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:17:51 GMT
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Greetings everyone.
I am looking for the number for the Woodworkers Warehouse. Does
anyone happen to have this?
Thanks.
I appreciate all responses.
mhoeting@sfasu.edu




From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:05 EST 1997
Article: 192852 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:24:12 GMT
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On 27 Mar 1997 03:03:00 GMT, dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson)
wrote:

>Edward LeBlanc <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
>>Jim, you are probably looking for an indicator with .001" graduations and
>>something like 1.00" of travel.  IMHO the best are Starrett, Brown &
>>Sharpe, and Mitutoyo.  I think these are overkill for a woodworker.  I have
>>had a Teclock indicator for years that I use for general purpose stuff and
>>I find that it is good enough. 

>
>   What could go wrong with a dial indicator?, I'm wondering.  Such a
>   simple device, particularly for measuring in the small-thou range.
>   What conceivably could the US-made units give you that we don't get
>   with the Chinese stuff?  For woodworking and machine setup, it
>   didn't add up...

>   Doug Dawson
>   dawson@physics.utexas.edu
>

Actually you would be suprised to find out just how complex a device
the simple looking dial indicator IS. My father repairs watches, you
know the old wind up kind, and it looks similar to the inside of a
watch. I had one sticking every once in a while. I thought...hell,
I'll just take it apart and clean out whatever is sticking it up.
Well, I wouldn't advise anyone to do THAT! Luckily I got it all back
together and fixed the problem which turned out to be a tiny loose
screw, but I was impressed by just how much went into measuring .001".
I keep it around to set up new jigs and to check on the fence every
once in a while (which hasn't changed from the first time I set it up)
and other things.

Like anything else, you can spend as much money as you want to but I
think 30-50 bucks will get you what you need for woodworking. That's
just my two cents.

Al


From mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:06 EST 1997
Article: 192853 of rec.woodworking
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From: mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dewalt rebate
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:25:30 -0800
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I had same problem ( on their table saw) and called the 800 customer 
service number in mt manual.  (in Pittsburg as I remember!)  They were 
exceeding friendly and helpful.  They sent out form and had my check to 
me in about 1 week!!!!  I also bought a band saw but don't remember how 
that one worked!  See if this helps.  If not let me know and I'll look up 
my records to get you more help.  MJP


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:06 EST 1997
Article: 192854 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Let us try this
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:41:48 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Moosemeat wrote:
> 
> Is it possible for just one week to elapse without some reference to, or
> comment about, Norm Abrams.  I would enjoy it and I'm sure Norm would too.

We've tried several times.  I thought we were going to make it this time
until your post appeared.       :-)     :-)     :-)

But seriously...
You don't want to read about Norm.  I don't want to read about antique
hand tools.  As long as the messages are related to woodworking, post
them all and let the reader sort them out!  If your post isn't quite
about woodworking, at least try this...

Ob.rec.ww:  I just finished sanding the parts for an Adirondack
            chair with my new Grizzly 6" belt/9" disk stationary
            sander.  It was an early birthday present from my wife.
            Why didn't I get this years ago?  It's great!

The "Ob.rec.ww" means "Obligatory Recreational Woodworking Note".
That way, anybody who thought they were reading this message for
the woodworking information won't be too disappointed...

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:07 EST 1997
Article: 192855 of rec.woodworking
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From: mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on PC nailers
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:43:45 -0800
Organization: Bell Atlantic Internet Solutions
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Tom Corey wrote:
> 
> Steve Zuromski wrote:
> >
> > I'm a hobbyist who is considering the plunge to air nailers.  Everyone
> > tells me Senco is the best and the price appears to bear that out.
> > Lately I've noticed that the PC nailers are very attractively priced.
> > Has anyone had any experience with them?  Are they quality tools or
> > cheap junk?  Will they last?  Any opinions are most welcome
> > SteveZ
> 
> I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
> tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
> 
> My opinion (I dont work for them)

I Purchased a Porter Cable from Trend line about 6 months ago (16 ga 
,2" brad).  I'am extremely pleased with it.  I can easly put a 2" 
brad flush into  2 peices of 1" red oak boards with no problem ( need 
about 110 lbs of air)!! It never jams and works great! -  However, this 
is my first nailer so take this for what it's worth!  MJP


From RLepage@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:08 EST 1997
Article: 192856 of rec.woodworking
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From: RLepage@aol.com (R Lepage)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Tables
Date: 27 Mar 1997 15:23:26 GMT
Organization: PWGSC
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I'm currently shopping for a router table. My router is a B&D with a 6" 
base. 

Any recommendations on brand or model? Also I am considering getting a 
second router which I could leave attached to the table. Any 
comments?

I am located in Canada if that helps with your input.
  

============================================
=   Richard Lepage - PWGSC
=   RLepage442@aol.com
=   lepager@pwgsc.gc.ca  



From mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:09 EST 1997
Article: 192857 of rec.woodworking
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From: mjpiazza@bellatlantic.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:58:07 -0800
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Need to beDMarlen wrote:
> 
> Or throw it in the garden to help clay soils break up.
> 
> David. 
Need to be careful about using saw dust in garden!!  First you have 
termite problem if your in wrong part of country! Two,  and more 
importantly unrotten saw dust will rob large quanities of nitrogen from 
the soil as it decays!!


From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Wed Apr  2 11:58:10 EST 1997
Article: 192858 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's technique
Date: 27 Mar 1997 08:44:26 -0500
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In article <3339C6C9.10AF@gwis.com>, Jack A. Zucker <jaz@gwis.com> wrote:
>Not to put anyone here down but at least Norm spends his time DOING
>woodworking rather than posting on the internet :-)

Maybe he should once in a while. I think at least reading what other
folks in the profession think and do and holding discussions with them
(his woodworking "peers") on the merits and drawbacks of various
procedures and techniques would be a good thing. Also, not to put
anyone here down, but I count 133 posts (using DejaNews) to rec.ww
since 11/24/96 by a certain individual who shall remain nameless (and
recently posted a message which could be construed as critically
questioning of Norm's use of Polyurethane glue on biscuits).  :-)

I for one am darn glad the likes of Haubert, Peregrin, O'Deen, OleRay
(and even, sometimes, Bennett :-), etc. are regular posters and take
the time to share their experience/knowledge with the rest of us.  If
folks like these (and Jack, incidently :-) weren't participating in
rec.ww, why would anyone bother to read it? It would be nothing but an
endless series of unanswered questions and noise with no signal. I
*especially* respect/value the folks who have actual knowledge and
experience and are willing to take their time to *contribute* their
knowledge to rec.ww.  Maybe there'd be a net gain all around if Norm
participated here as well.  I also very much appreciate the legitimate
constructively critical reviews (that always seem to generate copious
flammage) of Norms projects as I certainly don't have so much time to
spend woodworking that I want to do anything over if I don't have to.
YMMV.

-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From cribfaq@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Wed Apr  2 11:58:11 EST 1997
Article: 192859 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking,misc.kids.info,misc.answers,rec.answers,news.answers
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From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: FAQ: Crib and Cradle Safety Regulations
Summary: A summary of crib and cradle safety regulations.
Message-ID: <cribfaq_859472403@ferret.ocunix.on.ca>
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Archive-name: misc-kids/crib-safety-faq
Last-modified: Wed Jan 25 23:48:39 EST 1995

Editor/Author: Chris Lewis, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Comments-to: cribfaq@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
	(automatic if you reply to this posting)

		Copyright 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994 Chris Lewis
	Redistribution for-profit hereby prohibited without consent
	of the author.  Redistribution via printed book or CDROM
	expressly prohibited without consent of the author.

New or changed material is marked with a "|".  You can skip to the
new sections by typing "g^|" in most newsreaders.

Changes this issue: See reference to US regulations, and US-specific change
		    on corner posts.

I will extend this from time-to-time as comments come in, or it
seems appropriate to add new stuff.  This is not formated as Q&A,
just as a series of points.

This is a summary of the "Crib and Cradle Safety" pamphlet published
by the Ministry of Consumer and Corporate Affairs, Canada.
The date on the pamphlet seems to be 1987.  I don't imagine that
it's changed much since then.  The pamphlet ID is:

	C&CC No 190 17342 B 87-07

>From  what I've heard of US regulation, they're fairly close.

More detailed US specifications are available from the US Consumer Product
Safety Commission by writing them at:

Publication Request
Office of Information and Public Affairs
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Washington, D.C. 20207

You should ask for publication #202 ("The Safe Nursery - A Buyer's Guide")

These are probably a good start when you're determining the safety
of an existing crib or are thinking of building your own.  When in
doubt, though, it is suggested that you obtain the latest applicable
regulations.  I've done my best to transcribe them accurately, but
I do not warrantee the accuracy or current applicability of these
rules.

The measurements in this pamphlet are metric.   I'll take a stab at
the conversions, but if there's a conflict, take the metric.
(for reference, you divide centimetres (cm) by 2.54 to get inches.
There are 10 millimetres (mm) in a centimetre).  Even if these
are a direct copy of the USA's (or vice-versa) people should be
aware that the actual US regulations will probably not be
exact conversions (eg: it's been rounded off one way or the other)

slat spacing: maximum: 6cm (2 3/8")  [This may seem unreasonably
narrow - no child that's likely to be at home is going to have a head
*that* small.  True.  But a child's body can often slip through
a gap only a little larger, resulting in strangulation when the
child's head gets caught.]

corner post protrusion (above rails/frame): 3mm max (1/8", 1/16" US)

When the mattress support is at the lowest position and the drop side
is at the highest, the top of the rail must be at least 66cm (26")
above the top of the mattress support.

When the mattress support is at its highest, and drop side at lowest,
the top of the rail must be at least 23cm (9") above the top of the
mattress support.

Other rules:
	- drop side requires two separate positive and simultaneous
	  actions to release the side, and engages automatically.
	- there must be no gap between the lower edge of the end panel
	  and the upper edge of mattress support.
	- all small parts are firmly attached and able to withstand
	  a 90 newton (20 pounds) of force, pull or push
	- there are no split, cracked or broken, loose or missing slats,
	  or broken or missing hardware or screws
	- threaded bolt ends are either inaccessible or covered by
	  an acorn nut
	- mattress support mechanisms are firmly attached so that they
	  cannot be released with an upward push from under the mattress
	  support.
	- there is no mmore than a 3cm (1 3/16") gap between the mattress
	  and the sides or ends of the crib when the mattress is pushed
	  into a corner.
	- the labeling on cribs, cradles and their containers clearly
	  identifies the manufacturer, model number and date of manufacture.
	- all open holes are too small for a child's finger to become caught.
	- crib mattresses should be no thicker than 15cm (5 7/8").
	  They should be kept in good condition.  if they're too soft
	  or worn down in any area, a gap or hollow may be created where
	  a baby could become trapped and suffocate.

    Literature which must accompany the crib or cradle should:
	- state and show clearly how to assemble the product
	- contain a warning on proper use of the product, including a
	  statement not to use it if the child is able to climb out
	  unaided or, in the case of cribs, is taller than 90cm.
	
    Mattress support mechanisms:
	The mattress support mechanisms or hangers on some cribs may
	not be secure.  Check them by rattling the mattress support,
	thumping the mattress from the top and repeating the thumping
	on the support from the bottom.  If the support dislodges, your
	child's life could be in danger.  To prevent this, prop up the
	mattress support firmly from underneath, perhaps by using large
	boxes.

	[Ed note: when in doubt, bolt it together.  This one item is
	probably responsible for more deaths than all of the other problems
	put together]

Precautions:
	- Some people like to protect the mattress with waterproof sheets -
	  but these could hamper a child's breathing and should not be
	  used.

	  [Ed note: many new mattresses come with integral waterproof
	  coverings.  You should use a quilted mattress protector *and*
	  a fitted mattress sheet (cotton or flannelette) over top.]

	- bumper pads are used to protect a baby's head if he or she happens
	  pump it against the side of the crib.  Bumper pads come protected
	  with a plastic cover, which should be checked as often as possible.
	  If it's punctured or torn, it could be chewed or torn even
	  further, and a baby might swallow or inhale pieces of it and
	  choke.  A torn plastic cover also leads to holes in the bumper
	  pad, and babies have been known to stick their heads in these
	  holes and suffocate.

Pointers:
	- Always make sure that your crib is assembled strictly in
	  accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, and that
	  each component is properly and securely in place at all
	  times.
	- If you own a portable mesh crib, make certain that the drop side
	  is fixed very securely in the raised position.  Otherwise, the
	  baby might roll into the mesh pocket formed when the drop side
	  is not fully raised.  The baby's head or chest could easily
	  become compressed between the floor of the crib and the mesh
	  side and the baby could suffocate.
	- Never leave a baby in a crib with something like a necklace,
	  elastic, scarf or with a pacifier on a long cord...
	- People like to hang mobiles over cribs.  These should be too
	  far to be reached by a baby standing in the crib.
	- Babies should never be tied or harnessed in a crib.
	- As soon as your baby is able to sit up, remove crib exercisors
	  or other toys that are strung over the crib.
	- As soon as your baby is able to stand, ensure that the mattress
	  is at its lowest position, and remove the bumper pads from the
	  crib, as well as any large toys that could serve as steps for
	  climbing out.
	- Avoid using a crib with toeholds - ie: slat/spindle cribs with
	  cross-bars in the head or foot board.  There should be no foot
	  hold that is less than the above side minimum height specifications
	  from the top.
	- When your baby is old enough to climb out of the crib, it's time
	  to stop using it.

New rules/recommendations:
	- rocking cradles (rocker or swing type) should be designed so that
	  they will rock less than 10 degrees when a child is all the way
	  to one side, or be supplied with spring-loaded bolt locks.
	  "Loose pin" locks are inadequate, because they may fall out or
	  be forgotten or lost.  If the cradle rocks more than 10 degrees
	  under the weight of a child, very young children can roll into a
	  corner, become entangled in the bedclothes, be unable to move
	  and suffocate.

Political Correctness:

    Some senior health officials consider having your child sleep in
    your bed with you to be extremely hazardous, because, asleep, you
    could roll over and crush or suffocate your child.  Worse, some of
    these same officials, plus those in child welfare agencies consider
    it to be prima-facie evidence of child abuse, and being sufficient
    in itself to result in a child being removed into state care.

    Of course it's all horse manure.  Having children sleep by themselves
    in cribs is a phenomena unique to just a few western cultures, and
    that only in the very recent past.
    
    However, some of these people have very broad discretionary powers,
    and caution is advised.

[Canada only] If you have further questions, please contact your local
office of Consumer and Corporate Affairs Canada.

Building your own crib/cradle (not from the pamphlet)

Finishing:

Ideally, you want to use a totally non-toxic finish, because some children
tend to act like beavers....  The best solution is to use some sort of
edible oil.  Unfortunately, most of the vegetable oils (corn oil, sunflower
oil et. al.) take a long time to dry, if at all, and under some circumstances
will go rancid and smell and may cause a child some distress.  Three oil
finishes that are known to be suitable are:

	- pure tung oil (make sure it says it's *pure*.  Most "tung oil"
	  finishes are combined with metallic driers and solvents to improve
	  hardness or speed up the drying)
	- walnut oil.
	- Behlen's salad bowl finish.

It's recommended that you let these finishes dry for two weeks or longer.

Some of the standard finishes will dry to a non-toxic state, but this
will depend on the brand, and a long drying time.  This FAQ will make
no recommendations as to whether any are suitable.

Mineral oil can be used because it is non-toxic, but it never really
dries completely.

Note that there have been reports that cribs painted with old-fashioned lead
paints can actually have direct toxic affects on a child.  If you obtain
an old cradle (70's or earlier), it might be worth testing it for lead
if it has a paint finish.

Materials:  Many woods can cause skin irritation or other problems.
If you stick to a domestic hardwood (maple, cherry, walnut, poplar,
pine, oak, beech etc.) and use a reasonable finish, the cradle will be
safe.  Woods to avoid without extra precautions are: most exotic
hardwoods (especially rosewood, teak), cedar, juniper (aromatic cedar)
and some of the less common domestics, such as Oleander and Mimosa.
-- 
For more information on spam, including countermeasures and resources,
see the Internet Spam Boycott, at <URL:http://spam.abuse.net/spam/>.

Chris Lewis: _Una confibula non sat est_


From robmurr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:12 EST 1997
Article: 192860 of rec.woodworking
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From: robmurr@aol.com (ROBMURR)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 16:03:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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How about any JET table saw owners will they run on 20 amps 115v or did
you have to rewire to 220 volts??


From 70664.154@compuserve.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:13 EST 1997
Article: 192861 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:11:41 -0600
From: Jeremy Epstein <70664.154@compuserve.com>
Subject: WTB 10" Table Saw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,nyc.forsale
Message-ID: <859478933.31371@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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I am looking to buy a reasonably priced, good quality 10" table saw. I'm
in Brooklyn, NY. Price ideally less than 700 dollars, brands like Delta,
Jet, Craftsman (if ancient) are sought. email to address above please.

-j

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:14 EST 1997
Article: 192862 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of this "club"?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 12:54:26 GMT
Organization: Infinet
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References: <332b5c57.1576695@news.alt.net> <larson.curtis-1803972131580001@ppp3204.mcleodusa.net> <akinE7L4yn.GI9@netcom.com> <333A6432.65AF6CC8@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com>
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In article <333A6432.65AF6CC8@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com>,
   William Pav <wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com> wrote:
>Hadji wrote:
>> 
>> Curt Larson (larson.curtis@mcleod.net) wrote:
>> : In article <332b5c57.1576695@news.alt.net>, Plecostamus@Fish.net wrote:
>> 
>> : > I recieved an invitation to join the "Handyman Club of America" in the
>> : > mail.  As a charter member no less. This thing kinda stinks up my
>> : > house in my opinion.  Anyone else have any knowledge of this??
>> : >
>> 
>> : I've received no less than four "Charter Member" offers over the last
>> : several years.  Put it where you put the rest of the junk mail.
>> 
>> : Curt
>> 
>> I've been getting "Charter Member" offers as well.  I read the letter that
>> came with it and I think that something sounds really fishy about the deal.
>> Nobody just gives tools away.
>> 
>> --
>
>Three years ago, my wife joined Handyman Club of America as a charter
>member - she received none of the benefits (free stuff), except the
>one year subscription to the magazine. After a year - she quit.
>
>Then two weeks ago, I got an invitation to join as a charter member.
>Huh? How doesn;t charter membership imply that the club is new and that
>one who joins early on is a charter member? Anyway, long story short,
>the invitation joined the unsolicited $7,500 credit limit, 19.9% APR
>credit card offers in the recycle bin...
>
>On a somewhat related topic - any of those unsolicited offers -
>like credit cards, clubs, etc. that I recieve that has a postage-paid
>envelop enclosed - I take the entire contents (including the original
>envelope), and put it in the postage-paid envelope and send it
>back to the company. I usually write something nasty on the 
>'acceptance' card - telling them where to put their trash.
>

That's the perfect way to respond to junk mail.  The companies figure their 
expenses based on only a small percentage of those postage paid envelopes 
ever being used, and assuming that they are going to make some money off of 
the ones that are returned.  By returning them without buying anything, you 
cause them unplanned expense.  They have to pay the postage as well as pay the 
 company that processes their mail.  These processing companies charge by the 
piece, opening the mail and converting the written information into an 
electronic database which is sent to the company responsible for the mailings. 
 Every piece that they have to process which does not result in a 
subscription/membership/purchase/etc. is a loss to the bulk mailing company, 
albeit a small one.  Nevertheless, if enough people protested by doing what 
you did, maybe it would make bulk mailings expensive enough that bulk mailers 
would do more research to more closely define their advertising base and send 
out less misdirected advertising.  That's less of a nuisance to us and less 
wasted paper in the trash can every day.

Paper that, by the way, is made of wood, with which we work, which makes this 
post relevant to rec.woodworking.

Brad W.


From fp1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:15 EST 1997
Article: 192863 of rec.woodworking
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From: fp1@aol.com (FP1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: 27 Mar 1997 16:22:00 GMT
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Sawdust is great for removing stripper liquids from furniture that you are
refinishing.
Frankie


From fp1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:16 EST 1997
Article: 192864 of rec.woodworking
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From: fp1@aol.com (FP1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: 27 Mar 1997 16:24:13 GMT
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I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret later
on.
If you have any good tips/plans for a homemade router table please let me
know.
Thanks
Frankie


From wstubbs@lib.siu.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:17 EST 1997
Article: 192865 of rec.woodworking
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From: Walter Stubbs <wstubbs@lib.siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:12:55 -0800
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William Pav wrote:
> 
> Mark Young wrote:
> >
> > I noticed the Ryobi AND the DeWalt have small dust/chip ports with
> > obstructed paths; my Ryobi clogs consistently here, and I would think
> > the DeWalt would also, though Ryyobi comes with a collection bag,
> > whereas the DeWalt doesn't (to my knowledge).
> 
> My DeWalt came with a dust bag, and a 1" vacuum hose adapter...
> I've noticed dust port jamming with bag and no bag - I haven't tried
> using the vacuum option yet - simply because I don't have the 1" hose.
> It would seem to me that the vacuum option wouls solve the problem by
> 'actively' removing the wood chips instead of relying on the cutter
> head to eject them?!?
> >
> > Anyone else have these gripes? I did notice since my last post about the
> > angular adjustment of fences that the Ryobi seems to be the only one on
> > the market that allows downward angular adjustment (down to 45 degrees)
> > as well as upward... e.g. 135 degrees of motion); I think DeWalt only
> > goes from 90 (fence pointing straight out) to 0 (90 degrees range of
> > setting positions).
> 
> Yes, DeWalt is 0-90, for 135, I attach an auxilliary fence to the
> tool's fence (the aux-fence is a piece of 2x2 that screws to the
> tool fence. This changes the fence from 0-90 to 90-180.
> 
> >
> > Mark Young                              (newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
> > acoustic@up.net
> > http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972
> 
> --
> Sorry about the kludged return address...
> To reply to me, remove the "no_junk_mail" from:
> 
>           wpav@no_junk_mail.gic.gi.com

Apparently DeWalt thinks you would be stupid enough to stick your fingers
in here while it is running.  They have put an aluminum post in the 
middle of the discharge chute.  It is easily removed with a file.


From JPATTEN%SPF.DNET@GPO.NSC.COM Wed Apr  2 11:58:17 EST 1997
Article: 192866 of rec.woodworking
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From: JPATTEN%SPF.DNET@GPO.NSC.COM
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
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Snip
> Rich I took a look at the artical in  FWW ,the one with the sliding
> dovetail edge molding ,that is .
> One the whole dont you think it was a little strange ? The top was
> constructed more like a carcase base ,ie through dove tails .To me
> personally to treat the carcase top in this manner seemed
> strange,through dovetails with a xgrain molding outboard of that .As
> far as fine woodworking goes this approach is not standard ,normal
> construction would either be with the dovetails veneered over and the
> molding glued and or nailed to the side [this technique of attaching
> the could be used to advantage in this case]or preferably a solid
> overlapping top with molded edges attached mechanically.
> mjh

Michael,
         Thomas Moser(Shaker/Mission Style Furniture) has been using 
this method for years.  Since they have a gallery/store in Portland
Maine I'm able to periodically visit and drool over their stuff.
This through dovetail joinery in the case construction with the dovetail
held on molding looks great on this style of furniture.  

  I haven't read the FWW article yet, but from seeing the Moser Furniture
they take short dovetail shaped blocks(~ 2 or 3 inches long) and screw 
them into the side of the cabinet varying amount of blocks depending on
how wide or deep the cabinet is, then the slide the molding onto the
dovetail blocks.  They then take and put a screw in from the inside of 
the cabinet to the front of the molding or near the miter.  Since they 
I believe oil and wax their furniture, you can see the top about an 
1/8 of an inch shorter than the molding in winter and the same length 
as the molding in summer.

    - Jon


From P243C@metrolink.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:19 EST 1997
Article: 192867 of rec.woodworking
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Call MicroMark at 800-225-1066. They have tons of that stuff.




From pfh59@cas.org Wed Apr  2 11:58:20 EST 1997
Article: 192868 of rec.woodworking
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From: pfh59@cas.org ()
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Duck Decoys
Date: 27 Mar 1997 15:38:18 GMT
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Walt -

Try rec.carving for discussions on any type of carving including decoys.

There is also a Woodcarver Mailing List with LOTS MORE activity - check out

http://www.terranet.ab.ca:80/~bjudt/WoodcarverList.html

You and your dad might also be interested in

Visit the WWWoodc@rver E-zine at:
http://www.terranet.ab.ca:80/~bjudt/WWWoodcarver/WWWoodcarver.html

Let me know if you have any questions.

Paul Herbeck
Columbus, OH





From mcornfor@mspo3.med.utmb.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:21 EST 1997
Article: 192869 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:41:34 -0600
From: mcornfor@mspo3.med.utmb.edu
Subject: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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I've used both models of the detail sander that Ryobi makes (I know, I
know, RYOBI). Anyway, both were absolutely worthless IMO, and I found I
could do a *much* better and *much* faster job just sanding by hand. I
haven't heard very many good things about Porter Cable's profile sander
either. So my question is whether this is a technology that hasn't yet
matured, or are there models out there that actually work? Because I
despise detail sanding so much, I'd be willing to buy a Fein, if someone
could convince me the extra cash was worth it.

mike c

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From lbrown@televar.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:22 EST 1997
Article: 192870 of rec.woodworking
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From: Barb Siddiqui <lbrown@telvar.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood for basic jigs
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:01:24 -0800
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Frank-

You've had good suggestions for a saw guide; but if you need thicker
stock for various jigs in hardwood, consider old furniture throw-aways
and cheap garage sale purchases...stools, broken dressers, half a bunk
bed often show up as garbage, and with very little work yield solid
maple or other hardwood to be redesigned as you wish.

-Barb Siddiqui


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:22 EST 1997
Article: 192871 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoke Alarm sounds off from Dust?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:07:53 GMT
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In article <33395B3C.4127@aloha.com>,
   George Seaman CRL <hi-tech@aloha.com> wrote:
>colbyt wrote:
>>
>Hello Colbyt,
>     Your smoke alarm more than likly uses a small amount of radiating
>material and the dust got in the way and caused it to go off.
>     Solution :  Cover the detector with a fine mesh filter (ie. nylon
>stocking, vacume dust bag,) BUT NOTE: this will disable the detector. 
>So when you are through remove the cover.
>     By the by the detector should now be removed and cleaned out
>because it has dust in it and is more like go off.
>
>George Seaman  CRL
>
>
> 
>> Twas down in the basement ripping away with my new saw when the smoke
>> alarm went off.  Neither the motor or the belt was hot.  No apparent
>> reason for the Smoke Dector to sound an alarm.  Does anway have any
>> input to offer?
>> 
>> Colbyt
>> I follow this group on a regular basis but:
>> if you prefer  email  user@sprynet.com


I agree with the above post.  If I remember correctly, there is a light beam 
inside the unit.  When that light beam is obstructed, the detector goes off.  
The obstruction could be smoke or dust, anything that will keep the beam from 
striking full strength on the receiver.  We used to have one outside the 
bathroom of our apartment, and sometimes the steam would set it off when you 
opened the door.
	Covering the smoke detector temporarily should do it.  I have seen 
contractors do this when sanding drywall.  Just remember to uncover it when 
you are through.  The heat detector buttons are also a good option.  I have 
seen heat detectors used in areas where the combustibles are alcohols or other 
substances that flash and don't smoke enough to set off a smoke detector right 
away.

Brad W.  


From davet@proaxis.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:23 EST 1997
Article: 192872 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
Date: 27 Mar 1997 16:41:45 GMT
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I have an older (bought in 1994) Grizzly 16" bandsaw, model # 
1538 I believe.  At the time, it was about $550.  The Delta 
14" was about $100 more.  There's no comparison.  The Delta 
cuts better and works great.  The Grizzly wanders (despite tune 
ups) and does not work up to my expectations.  At the 
time of my purchase, Grizzly advertised my model as the best 
value on the market.  They currently advertise their newer 
model G1073 as the best on the market and rated "best buy" by a 
woodworking magazine.  I'm skeptical.  

By the way, I have a number of other Grizzly woodworking tools 
and am very pleased with their performance.  The bandsaw has 
been the only exception.




From OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:24 EST 1997
Article: 192873 of rec.woodworking
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From: "BEN SIMPSON" <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: teak
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:04:00 GMT
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My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to fix
the problem?
respond to:  osagechief@worldnet.att.net


From nobody@notset.yet Wed Apr  2 11:58:25 EST 1997
Article: 192874 of rec.woodworking
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From: nobody@notset.yet (No One)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Band saw repair?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 16:39:07 GMT
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I found a 14" 3/4HP Jet bandsaw in the paper today for $100.  The owner
says that the top wheel is bent (how do you bend something like that?),
but I should be able to get replacement parts from Jet pretty easily.

Does anyone have any experience with that?  How difficult would it be? 
And does anyone have a phone number for Jet (I tried 800 information, but
they couldn't help)?

Thanks,
Billy.


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:26 EST 1997
Article: 192875 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue for Veneering?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:52:06 GMT
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Wood shed in Buffalo, NY is a good source.

Use only hot hide glue for veneering.

=======================================================

On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:21:40 -0800, GeneK <GeneK@pacbell.net> wrote:

>Kevin Miske wrote:
>> 
>> Well I am about to start on my first 'real' veneering project.  It is a
>> coffee table with a a double 'C' shaped base which is joined at the
>> center.  I am in the mental planning stage still but am wondering what
>> is the best glue used for veneering?  Also if anyone has any
>> recommendations as to suppliers of veneer.  I have seen the resent
>> discussion of Constantine's but are there others out there which are
>> better.
>
>The "traditional" glue would be hide glue.  I brethe a sigh of relief
>whenever I have to repair a piece that was put together with hide glue
>cause it's easy to rework.  It softens under heat. 
>
>Gene



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:27 EST 1997
Article: 192876 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning waterstone
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:05:09 GMT
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In article <333a07b3.17365703@news.lafn.org>, vbaron@lafn.org says...
>
>I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
>screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
>roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
>and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
>combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
>the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
>sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? It just happened
>this evening so I haven't had time to try anything. Had several ideas
>on my own tho,
>1) Just let it soak in water
>2) Use waterless hand cleaner to dissolve the gunk and let the water
>float it away
>3) Lap the stone on glass with ??? grit wet/dry paper
>
>Any thoughts? Hopefully I haven't ruined the stone. Sure like the edge
>it puts on a plane iron.
>
>Thanx,
>
>Vic Baron
>

I think the easiest and best route is to use a Nagura stone.  It's a little
stone that's used to create a slurry of mud on the waterstone by wearing
it down slightly before you begin sharpening.  Soaking the stone in
water will probably float most of the oil off the stone, and the Nagura
stone will help clean out the pores.  Lapping the stone should also
work, but IMO, anybody using waterstones should have a Nagura,
anyway...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------



From Verrochi@tiac.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:29 EST 1997
Article: 192877 of rec.woodworking
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From: Verrochi@tiac.net  (Matt Verrochi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:07:07 GMT
Organization: Unorganized
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Message-ID: <333aa7de.7092211@news.tiac.net>
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>SJ14280 wrote:
>> 
>> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster? 

Super smooth surface of axle to axle carrier.  Sanded with like 220 for maximum smoothness, wetsanded if you use metal to
metal in the axle/carrier setup.  Use dry graphite to slicken things up a bit, never oil.

Narrow wheels, narrow pointed nose on the car itself.  (aerodynamics in mind)  Well sanded to deflect any turbulence that may
occur.

I've seen a lot of dad's loose sight of the fact that their child is supposed to build the car themselves.  These same dads
have the KILL, KILL, KILL mentality and want their kid to win at all costs and have no problem building the entire car for
them.

Most any hobby store has all the parts and supplies for them.

Have fun
 
 Matt

Verrochi@tiac.net
RC Cars, Parts and Radios for Sale at:
          http://www.tiac.net/users/verrochi/RCSALE.htm



From lwm@genesisnetwork.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:30 EST 1997
Article: 192878 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerry Morrison <lwm@genesisnetwork.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:44:44 -0800
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Years ago I worked with my son on a Pinewood Derby car. As I remember,
it came as a kit and you were restricted to using only parts in the kit.
We enhanced the wheels by removing all casting burrs and chucking them
in a drill motor and polishing them. This included the inside of the
holes that you mount them thru. We also chucked up the nails used for
axles and polished the area where the wheel rides. These were lubricated
with teflon. We took the car to a market with an accurate scale and
adjusted the weight to max with lead fishing weights which were then
concealed inside. His car couldn't be touched in competition and he
still has the car today.


From efleblanc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:31 EST 1997
Article: 192879 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward LeBlanc" <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:48:44 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I have the PC profile sander and I think it does a decent job of what I
bought it for, i.e. sanding moulding profiles.  It is not the sander to use
except when there is no way to sand something other than by hand.  I also
detest detail sanding.  Using the PC really helped with al the intricate
moulding on an mohogany entrance door that I just sanded.  Just my opinion.

Regards,

Ed

mcornfor@mspo3.med.utmb.edu wrote in article
<859480585.32700@dejanews.com>...
> I've used both models of the detail sander that Ryobi makes (I know, I
> know, RYOBI). Anyway, both were absolutely worthless IMO, and I found I
> could do a *much* better and *much* faster job just sanding by hand. I
> haven't heard very many good things about Porter Cable's profile sander
> either. So my question is whether this is a technology that hasn't yet
> matured, or are there models out there that actually work? Because I
> despise detail sanding so much, I'd be willing to buy a Fein, if someone
> could convince me the extra cash was worth it.
> 
> mike c
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
> 


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:32 EST 1997
Article: 192880 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of this "club"?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:11:39 GMT
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In article <5hdqm2$khv$1@nw003.infi.net>, pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net says...
>
>That's the perfect way to respond to junk mail.
>
>Paper that, by the way, is made of wood, with which we work, which makes this 
>post relevant to rec.woodworking.
>
>Brad W.

Abbie Hoffman's recommendation was to attach the postage-paid
envelope or postcard to a brick and drop it in the mailbox.

Okay, this is rec.ww, not rec.masonry, so attach it to a foot-long
chunk of 4x4 instead...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 11:58:33 EST 1997
Article: 192881 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on PC nailers
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:54:05 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <5hc3dt$4q0$1@decius.ultra.net> stevez@stevez.ultranet.com (Steve Zuromski) writes:
>From: stevez@stevez.ultranet.com (Steve Zuromski)
>Subject: Need advice on PC nailers
>Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:09:48 GMT

>I'm a hobbyist who is considering the plunge to air nailers.  Everyone
>tells me Senco is the best and the price appears to bear that out.
>Lately I've noticed that the PC nailers are very attractively priced.
>Has anyone had any experience with them?  Are they quality tools or
>cheap junk?  Will they last?  Any opinions are most welcome
>SteveZ

I have the PC BN200.  I consider it just as well made as the Senco finish 
nailer I used, and better in some areas.  However, since it is a pretty new 
product, only time will tell.

The advantage is to be able to go to 2" (essential for installing trim), but 
with the small hole left by the brads.

The only problem I've had is that the repeat-fire function is a little too 
fast for my tastes.  You need to let go right away or you will get a double 
fire.  It didn't take long to learn.

Rich



From gtf@itw.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:34 EST 1997
Article: 192882 of rec.woodworking
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From: subhuman <gtf@itw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help!!! Wood Finish
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:35:41 -0500
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I have started a job with Hope's Tung Oil. I need to find more my
suppler can not find the conpany anywhere, if any one knows how to
contact Hope's please post or email me gtf@itw.com. Thanke in advance
Don


From jvreeland@mho.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:35 EST 1997
Article: 192883 of rec.woodworking
From: "John Vreeland" <jvreeland@mho.net>
Subject: Re: Kitchen Cabinet How To??
References: <01bc38a3$04948c00$4b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net> <19970325211200.QAA07820@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192883

I have Building Kitchen Cabinets, by Jere Cary, and built all the cabinets
for our vacation home using it. Amazon books sells it for about $15. 
(www.amazom.com)

John Vreeland

rbowles96@aol.com wrote in article
<19970325211200.QAA07820@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <01bc38a3$04948c00$4b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, "bcompton"
<bcompton@news.megalink.net> writes:
> 
> >
> >What I am looking for is a good book that provides step by step
procedures
> >for building kitchen cabinets including hardware selection.  Can anyone
> >recommend such a book?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> >
> >Bill Compton
> >bcompton@megalink.net
> >
> >
> 
> Isn't Danny Proulx coming out with just such a book.  E-mail is
RIDEAU@CAPILTALNET.COM.  HTTP://WWW.CAPITALNET.COM/~RIDEAU is home page.
> 


From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:37 EST 1997
Article: 192884 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: laquars
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:57:21 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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Michael John Hide writes
> Just wondering , are laguars in the same family as jaguars or are they
> more similar to the lion type of things?
>                                       mjh

Ah, the punctuation and capitalization challenged making fun of the
spelling challenged. Good show, Dr. Jekyll.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From efleblanc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:37 EST 1997
Article: 192885 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward LeBlanc" <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 27 Mar 1997 18:07:26 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Ted,

IMHO, you won't go wrong with the used unisaw unless it has been seriously
abused.  If it has the old jet-lock fence you might consider changing it to
a unifence or Biesmeyer.  If you get into woodworking seriously, you will
appreciate the unisaw more and more.  The others you will probably want to
upgrade to a unisaw or powermatic 66 or similar saw.  If you don't get into
woodworking seriously, you can probably sell the used unisaw for about what
you paid for it.  Have you considered the resale value of a used Grizzly or
Ryobi?

Who says Delta is worthless?  Maybe some (all) of their Home Depot specials
are, but not their better grades of equipment.

Teddy Winstead <winstead@eecs.tulane.edu> wrote in article
<MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>...
> Hi there.
> 
> I'm really new to woodworking and I'm considering the purchase of a table

> saw.  I've read the article in this month's FWW, and it didn't help me 
> clear up my confusion very much.  Here's where I stand:
>[snip]
> I've been seeing used Delta Unisaws around here in the newspaper for the 
> same price as the Grizzly or Ryobi, but some people tell me that Delta is

> worthless.  This really confused me, because I've never heard a bad word 
> about Delta in rec.ww.
> 
> So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
> people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
> comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ted
> 
> -- 
> Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead  
|http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
> winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
> Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


From mikew@umbc.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:40 EST 1997
Article: 192886 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Weaver <mikew@umbc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:56:05 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland, Baltimore County
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <Pine.SGI.3.95.970327125335.964G-100000@umbc7.umbc.edu>
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On 22 Mar 1997, Woody wrote:

> Any feedback on buying from Craftwoods in Timonium, MD?  I've been in there
> several times and they have a good selection, but they seem to be rather
> snobbish.  They always act like their doing me some great favor by taking
> my money.  Anybody else get that impression?

Yup...and too expensive.

If you're not too far from Craftwoods, you should check out Groff & Hearne
in Quarryville, PA.

Much better prices and selection for hardwoods, and worth a trip every
year or so just to drool over the large slabs available.

I happen to live only about 35 minutes from them though. It's probably
about an hour and a half from Craftwoods (just a guess though as I've
never gone from one to the other)

Just my $.02,

	-Mike
-----------------
Michael P. Weaver                                     Email: mikew@umbc.edu
Database Program Adminstrator 			      
Center for Health Program Development and Management, UMBC, Baltimore,MD 21250
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine, and not my employer's.



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 11:58:42 EST 1997
Article: 192887 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:59:47 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default> "BEN SIMPSON" <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>From: "BEN SIMPSON" <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: teak
>Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:04:00 GMT

>My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
>looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to fix
>the problem?
>respond to:  osagechief@worldnet.att.net


Another who wants free help, but won't even bother to check the NG for it.  

OK, Ben, here goes:  You can't fix it - you must replace it.  Use a spade bit 
and jigsaw to cut a square in the table.  Then get some new teak and cut to 
fit.

Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 11:58:43 EST 1997
Article: 192888 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Machinery, a horror story
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:09:20 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
Lines: 41
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In article <5hboql$n57$2@news01a.micron.net> dennisf@micron.net writes:
>From: dennisf@micron.net
>Subject: Re: Mail Order Machinery, a horror story
>Date: 26 Mar 1997 18:10:29 GMT


>>  
>>  snip
>>  I got my unisaw through woodworker's supply, as well.  I happened to order it 
>>  during the union truckers' strike, so they had to use a non-union carrier.  
>>  Delivery to my doorstep was quite prompt for 2000 miles, and without problem.  
>>  They even offered to take it down to my basement, but some disassembly was 
>>  required, so I declined.
>>  

>>>>>
>Rich,
>I've been considering a Unisaw too, but I want to put it in my basement.  Sadly,
>the only access is an interior stairway which has a 90 degree turn 5 steps from
>the bottom.  How much did you have to disassemble the saw?  How wide were
>the pieces?


I am always amused by these houses with bent stairways.  What are these 
builders thinking?

A unisaw cabinet and top really isn't that big, though.  The top is 20 x 27", 
I think, and of course the cabinet is smaller than that.  So, technically, 
it'll fit, since a stairway is supposed to be 36" wide.  

However, since it's heavy, you can't just pick it up and carry it down.  I 
used a refrigerator dolly, leaned it down on the steps, and let the stair 
friction reduce the weight considerably.  This dolly, however, would NOT fit 
around your corner, unless you stood it up on the landing and turned it 90 
degrees.  Could be tricky.

I only removed the table extension, packaging, and left handwheel.  If you 
needed to actually carry it, you could remove the top and motor.

Rich



From wopierce@usa.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:44 EST 1997
Article: 192889 of rec.woodworking
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From: wopierce@usa.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending Wood
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:12:52 GMT
Organization: GTE Intelligent Network Services, GTE INS
Lines: 29
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perhaps you should consider a water curing polyurethane glue for your
lamination. They advertise less springback than yellow glues .
Joe Enduser <firstname.lastname@ab.com> wrote:

>I need to finish an arched entry-way that is four 
>feet across.  The top arch is two feet in radius.  
>I want to finish this like a doorway, with a jamb 
>and casing on both sides.  I had the casing made at 
>a local shop but they wanted way to much for the 
>arched jamb.  So I am doing this myself.  I plan to 
>use two layers of straight grained red oak, each 
>3/8".  These will be soaked in water (in a pool 
>since they are 8' long!) then bent around a form I 
>have built.  Wood glue will be spread between the 
>layers.
>
>Here's my question: will the glue dissipate into 
>the wet wood and not function properly?  Will the 
>3/8 oak bend around an arch that is 4 foot across 
>without breaking?  
>
>If anyone has had experience with this or any 
>comments I certainly would appreciate it.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Ruetty



From mikew@umbc.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:44 EST 1997
Article: 192890 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Weaver <mikew@umbc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:00:23 -0500
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On Sat, 22 Mar 1997, R. Martin Caskey wrote:

> On Sat, 22 Mar 1997, Michael Fedock wrote:
> 
> > Woody wrote:
> > > 
> > > Any feedback on buying from Craftwoods in Timonium, MD?  I've been in there
> > > several times and they have a good selection, but they seem to be rather
> > > snobbish.  They always act like their doing me some great favor by taking
> > > my money.  Anybody else get that impression?
> > > --
> > > sgrabin@ix.netcom.com
> > 
> > 
> > Funny you should mention it.  They are arrogant and aloof.
> 
> Ditto! And expensive. Their selection of turning tools and supplies has
> shrunk to almost nothing, and they say they don't know when their home
> office (a wholesale lumber supplier near York, PA named ????) is going to
> order more. They seem equally disgusted that I would ask and that their
> owner doesn't seem to be responsive.

I think they get their hardwood from O'Shea lumber in New Freedom, PA, but
that's just a guess. O'Shea is a wholesaler only place, and I've often
seen their trucks southbound on I-83 inside Maryland.

> There is apparently a Woodworker's Warehouse in York. I haven't had a
> chance yet, but has anyone else had experience there??

It's a nice store, with some decent prices. No wood, but for tools, not
bad. A while ago they had the Pony pipe clamps for $7.50 or $7.99, which,
for retail, is often unheard of.

	-Mike

PS I live in southern York county, PA

 -----------------
Michael P. Weaver                                     Email: mikew@umbc.edu
Database Program Adminstrator 			      
Center for Health Program Development and Management, UMBC, Baltimore,MD 21250
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine, and not my employer's.



From d89con3@austin.ibm.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:45 EST 1997
Article: 192891 of rec.woodworking
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From: d89con3@austin.ibm.com (Greg Vrana)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shielded Bearings
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:12:10 GMT
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Is there a newsgroup that discusses electric motor repair?  I just
bought an old Walker-Turner sanding center from my uncle.  I took
apart the motor to clean it up and found that the shielded bearings
feel "dry".  Can shielded bearings be regreased?  If so, how and 
with what type of grease?  Or do they need to be replaced? 


-- 

Greg Vrana
d89con3@austin.ibm.com


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 11:58:47 EST 1997
Article: 192892 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.woodworking
Subject: Methlyene chloride
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:13:02 GMT
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Methylene Chloride-- Dichloromethane

This fact sheet answers the most frequently asked health questions
about methylene chloride.  For more information, you may call
404-639-6000.  This fact sheet is one in a series of summaries about
hazardous substances and their health effects.  

This information is important because this substance may harm you.
The effects of exposure to any hazardous substance depend on the dose,
the duration, how you are exposed, personal traits and habits, and
whether other chemicals 
are present.

SUMMARY:  Exposure to methylene chloride happens mostly from breathing
air in the workplace where it is used.   In people, direct skin
contact causes intense burning and mild skin redness.  This substance
has been found in at least 746 of 1,300 National Priorities List sites
identified by the Environmental Protection Agency.

What is methylene chloride? (Pronounced meth'' i - leen klo' ride)

Methylene chloride is a colorless liquid with a mild, sweet odor.
Another name for it is dichloromethane. 
 
It does not occur naturally in the environment.  It's made from
methane gas or wood alcohol.  It's widely used as a solvent in paint
strippers, as a propellant in aerosols, and as a process solvent in
the manufacturing of drugs.  It's also used as a metal cleaning and
finishing solvent.

Most methylene chloride gets in the environment from its use in
industry and from home use of aerosols and paint removers.  Because of
concern over the health effects, its use in aerosols has declined.

Methylene chloride is approved as an extraction solvent for spices and
hops.  It used to be popular for removing caffeine from coffee, but
most coffee producers no longer use it.

What happens to methylene chloride when it enters the environment?

It evaporates very easily, so it's found mostly in air.
More than 99 percent of the methylene chloride in air comes from
industry and consumer products.  It doesn't stick to soil particles or
dissolve in water, so it moves from both soil and water to air.  Soil
and water organisms break it down to simpler compounds.  Some drinking
water has been shown to contain small amounts of methylene chloride.
Plants and aquatic organisms do not appear to store it.
 
How might I be exposed to methylene chloride?

Breathing workplace air where it is used
Breathing fumes from paint strippers that contain it (check the label)
Breathing fumes from aerosol cans that use it (check the label)
Breathing contaminated air near waste sites.

How can methylene chloride affect my health?

Methylene chloride harms the human central nervous system.
High levels in the air (nearly 1,000 times average levels) may affect
your ability to react fast, remain steady, or perform tasks that
require precise hand movements.  If you continue to breathe high
levels, you may get: dizziness,  nausea, tingling, numbness in the
fingers and toes.

In most cases, these effects will stop shortly after exposure ends.
In animals, however, very high exposures have caused unconsciousness
and death.  Exposure to lower levels of methylene chloride in air can
lead to slightly impaired hearing and vision.  Many people can smell
methylene chloride at these lower levels.  However, people differ in
their ability to smell methylene chloride, so odors may not help you
avoid an unwanted exposure.  In humans, direct skin contact with
methylene chloride causes intense burning and mild redness of the
skin.  Direct contact with the eyes can burn the cornea.  In animals
that have been exposed to vapors or directly to methylene chloride,
the cornea was damaged.  The damage healed within a few days after the
exposure ended.

How likely is methylene chloride to cause cancer?

The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that

methylene chloride may reasonably be anticipated to be a carcinogen.
Methylene chloride has not been shown to cause cancer in humans
exposed to vapors in the workplace.  However, breathing high
concentrations of it for long periods did increase the incidence of
cancer in mice.

Is there a medical test to show whether I've been exposed to methylene
chloride?

Several tests measure exposure to methylene chloride.  These tests are
not routinely available in your doctor's office.

The most direct test measures methylene chloride in the air you
breathe out.  Your blood can also be tested to determine if methylene
chloride is present.  Since it stays in the blood a very short time,
you must have these tests soon after exposure. 
 
Doctors can also test urine for methylene chloride or for chemicals
such as formic acid that are produced as methylene chloride breaks
down in the body.
 
Has the federal government made recommendations to protect human
health?

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requires that releases of
methylene chloride of 1,000 pounds or more be reported to the federal
government.  The EPA has guidelines as to how much of this chemical
you may be exposed and for how long without harming your health.  EPA
recommends that children not drink water that contains more than 13.3
parts of methylene chloride per million parts of water (13.3 ppm) for
longer than 1 day or with more than 1.5 ppm for longer than 10  days.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) </B>has established limits on
how much methylene chloride can remain in spice, hops extract, and
decaffeinated coffee.  The Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) proposes to reduce the current occupational
exposure limits to methylene chloride in air.  The limit would go from
500 ppm to 25 ppm for an 8-hour workday.  The National Institute for
Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) currently recommends a
permissible limit of 75 ppm of methylene chloride in the air over a
10-hour workday  in the presence of carbon monoxide concentrations
less than or equal to 9.9 ppm.  

Carcinogen:  Substance that can cause cancer.
PPM:  Parts per million.
Cornea: The clear front part of the eye.
Propellant:  The gas used in spray cans to force out the contents of
the can.

Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 1993. 
Toxicological profile for methylene chloride.  Atlanta: U.S.
Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service.
Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 1990. Case
studies in environmental medicine: Methylene chloride toxicity.
Atlanta: U.S. Department of 
Health and Human Services, Public Health Service.

Where can I get more information?
ATSDR can tell you where to find occupational and environmental health
clinics.  Their specialists can recognize, evaluate, and treat
illnesses resulting from exposure to hazardous substances.  You can
also contact your community or state health or environmental quality
department if you have any more questions or concerns.

For more information, contact:  Agency for Toxic Substances and
Disease Registry Division of Toxicology 1600 Clifton Road NE, Mailstop
E-29, Atlanta, GA 30333
 Phone: 404-639-6000
 
 U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service, 
Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry
HREF="http://atsdr1.atsdr.cdc.gov:8080/toxfaq.html#ToxFACTS
 



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:48 EST 1997
Article: 192893 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Queen Anne Leg Pattern
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:47:52 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
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In article <333a8831.872373@nntp.holonet.net>, Tom, wdwrk2@nlenx.com says...

>I want to start carving my own queen anne legs  and I want to band saw

>out the rough shape first.  . . .  Does anyone know
>where I could find an auto sketch pattern?  Or a hard pattern that I
>could use roughing out the leg?


Lonnie Byrd has done at least a couple of articles for American Woodworker 
that have patterns for Queen Anne legs. One I have on file is from the June 
'94 issue and has duck's or trifid foot. He did a more recent article 
featuring a small table with a turned pad foot.

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From mposter@woodweb.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:49 EST 1997
Article: 192894 of rec.woodworking
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From: mposter@woodweb.com (Michael Poster)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WOODWEB interactive forums
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:04:06 GMT
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Looking for a job in the wood industry? Need a new machine? Looking
for bids or quotes on materials? 
Check out WOODWEB's new interactive forums:
Machinery Exchange
Bid Exchange
Employment Opportunities

http://www.woodweb.com/woodweb.html


WOODWEB
http://www.woodweb.com


From roche@cs.rochester.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:49 EST 1997
Article: 192895 of rec.woodworking
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From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: rec.woodworking Electric Motors Frequently asked Questions
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Archive-name: woodworking/motors
Last-modified: 3/17/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

This article answers many of the frequently asked questions about electric
motors. 


Motors:

    There are many kinds of motors, but this article considers only two
    kinds used frequently in woodworking tool applications: universal AC/DC
    motors and single-phase induction motors. Universal motors have brushes
    and commutators and are used for portable tools like routers, skilsaws,
    and electric drills.  Single-phase induction motors have no brushes,
    run only on AC electrical power, and are usually found on stationary
    tools such as table saws, drill presses, planers, and jointers.
    There are exceptions to this: some stationary tools use universal
    motors.

    Horsepower:  Motor horsepower is the most misunderstood (and misused)
    electric motor rating.  Neither motor, universal or induction, produces
    usable horsepower unless it is slowed down (by applied mechanical load)
    from no-load speed.  For induction motors, this slowdown is called
    "slip", and the horsepower "developed" by a motor increases with slip
    (to a simple approximation).  This is why induction motors are
    typically rated at 3450 rpm (two pole motor) or 1750 rpm (four pole
    motor).  The rating speed allows for slip from the "synchronous"
    speeds of 3600 and 1800 rpm, respectively.  Universal motors do not
    have a synchronous speed, but have a maximum no-load speed that depends
    upon the voltage applied to the motor.

    Most motors can put out a lot more maximum horsepower than they can
    sustain continuously.  By forcing more mechanical load on the motor,
    slowdown is increased and so therefore is the output horsepower.
    Mechanically, horsepower is torque times rpm, and increasing the
    mechanical load means that the rpm is slowed slightly and the drag
    torque is increased to obtain more torque times rpm.  Electrically,
    horsepower is volts times amps, and by conservation of energy, the
    mechanical output horsepower must be balanced by electrical input
    horsepower.  Since the voltage is relatively constant, this means that
    as a motor is loaded, the input current increases.  But the electrical
    winding impedance has a resistive component, so that higher current
    means more power dissipated in the windings.  In fact, the motor
    windings heat up proportional to the square of the motor current.
    Except for specially designed motors, the current that a motor can
    sustain continuously without burning out its windings is a fraction
    of the current at maximum load.

    Unscrupulous vendors sometimes publish maximum "developed" horsepower
    to make their products seem more capable than they really are.
    Developed horsepower may be two to five times the continuous duty
    rating of a motor.  Such products should be examined to discover the
    continuous duty rating to compare with other, more conservatively
    rated products.

    When the talk is of developed horsepower, the meaning is "peak" which
    for an induction motor is typically the local peak of the torque curve
    near synchronous speed.  A typical induction motor torque curve is:

          |
          |
          .                                            
          |.
          |  .                                        
   Dev.   _    .                                           .
          |      .                                    .      .
          |         .                               .         .
          |              .                        .            .
          |                       .             .
   Rated  _                              .                      .
          |
          |                                                      .
          |                                       
          |                                                       .
          |                                  
  Torque  |                                                        .
          |
          |
          |                                                         .
          |__________________________________________________________._
                                                                     |
          0                   RPM                              1800 or 3600


    As you can see, the curve is very steep in the operating region and in
    fact, the observed operation is typically that once you load the motor
    past the local maximum torque, the speed jumps to the corresponding
    point on the initial portion of the curve or simply stops.  The actual
    operation depends upon the shape of the curve near 0 RPM.

    The Rated HP is typically the torque level at which the motor can be run
    continuously without exceeding the temperature at which the winding
    insulation beaks down.  Since there is thermal mass involved, you can
    operate the motor at higher than rated torque for less than 100% of
    the time and not exceed this temperature if the motor is cool preceding
    the run etc. etc.  etc.

    Typically, two motors with different rated HP develop different HP in a
    ration close to the same as the difference in rating.


    The story is somewhat different for a universal motor such as is used on
    most hand held tools.  In these motors, for a given input voltage, the
    torque goes up as the speed goes down.  The more you load them, the slower
    they run until they stall, at which point their torque is a maximum.
    In this case, the developed horsepower is a the point along the torque
    curve where the speed X torque is a maximum.  As with the induction motor,
    the rated horsepower means you can run the motor there at 100% duty cycle.
    Again, you can load the motor more and it will produce more torque but you
    may only do this on a limited basis.

    The final word is heat.  If you exceed the winding insulation temperature
    rating, you will fail the insulation and ruin the motor ( or pop the
    thermal cutout if so equipped). 



    Application areas:  Universal motors are compact, have high starting
    torque, can run at high rpm, and deal well with rapidly varying
    loads.  They are often used with triac or thyristor speed controls.
    This makes them ideal for portable power tools.  Single-phase
    induction motors are efficient, have a limited rpm selection,
    are relatively heavy and bulky, and are almost maintenance-free.
    They work well in stationary tools that run at one rpm or that have
    a variable-speed transmission.

    Voltage: Both kinds of motors are supplied in popular mains voltages
    (115 or 230) but only induction motors are supplied with winding
    taps that allow either voltage to be selected.  As far as the motor
    is concerned, there is no difference in efficiency when selecting
    either 115 or 230 volts.  This is because such motors have two
    identical sets of windings that are connected in parallel for the lower
    voltage and in series for the higher.  Neither connection results
    in the individual windings seeing a different voltage.  However,
    inadequate wiring can make a difference to motor operation, because
    higher current at 115 volts may give unacceptable wiring voltage drops
    in some shops or garages.  Some wiring voltage drop is expected and
    built into the motor rating.  Nominal pole transformer output (to
    your house) is about 120/240 volts.  Motors are rated for 115/230
    volt operation, which allows for 5/10 volts wiring voltage drop.
    More voltage drop than this can cause low starting torque and
    overheating at rated load.

    115 or 230 volt operation makes no difference to your power company
    either.  The watt-hour meter at your electrical entry measures watts
    regardless of the voltage used.  Your power company does not give
    you a single watt for free, and your PUC (Public Utility Commission)
    won't let the power company charge more than the legal rates.
    Watt-hour meter accuracy is a matter of law in most States.

    Current:  Motors have a nominal current rating which is supposed to be
    the current at rated horsepower and rated voltage.  A motor will not
    draw exactly rated current except in the unlikely circumstance that
    the voltage applied is exactly the rated voltage and the load applied
    is exactly the rated horsepower.  As a matter of fact, most woodworking
    tools spend much of their life spinning without applied load and drawing
    only a small fraction of nameplate rated current.  When the tool begins
    to cut, motor current varies widely depending upon cutting load.  In
    some tools which have relatively small motors, motor current may approach
    several times rated current as the tool is momentarily loaded close
    to stall or breakdown torque.  An exception to this wide variation
    would be something like the motor driving the fan on a dust
    collection system; such motors operate at about rated horsepower all
    the time because the fan presents a constant load.

    For both universal and single-phase induction motors, the full-load
    current is given by

        I  =  (746 * hp) / (eff * pf * voltage)

    where eff is efficiency, pf is power factor, and the others are
    obvious.  In AC systems, the voltage and current waveforms are
    (nominally) sine waves and may differ in phase from each other
    by an angle called the phase angle.  There are 360 phase angle
    degrees in one sinusoidal cycle.  Power factor is the cosine of
    the phase angle, and for motors this angle is normally between
    zero and 90 degrees, current lagging voltage.  In DC systems,
    there is no phase angle, and power factor is defined as 1.0.

    Typical values for single-phase induction motors running at 115
    volts AC are pf = 0.8 and eff = 0.9.  This gives a rule-of-thumb
    value for amps/horsepower at 115 volts of

          9 amps / horsepower

    This figure is probably OK for rule-of-thumb comparison of induction
    and universal motors or reasonability checks as long as you
    remember that it is based on typical values.

    If you are contemplating operating a 115 volt universal motor
    on DC, performance should be slightly better at 115 volts DC
    than it was on AC.  The proper voltage to use is 115 volts DC.
    This is because AC voltages are given as RMS values, which
    are their power-equivalent DC values.  The tool will actually
    endure less voltage stress under DC operation because the
    peak voltage experienced under DC is 0.707 times the AC peak
    voltage.  Switches and contacts, however, may not last as long.

    Starting current can be as much as ten times rated motor current.
    This is usually not a problem for the circuit breaker feeding the
    motor, because modern circuit breakers are typically rated to trip
    instantaneously at about ten times breaker nameplate rating.  For
    currents less than the instantaneous value, the breaker trips due
    to internal heater elements which mimic the heatup characteristics
    of the wiring the breaker is supposed to protect.  Since starting
    currents last only a second or two (unless the motor is jammed),
    motors usually will not trip circuit breakers on starting current if
    the breaker is rated at higher current than the motor nameplate
    current.  This may not be true if you start the motor on a circuit
    which is already loaded close to rating.

    A motor may trip your circuit breaker on time-overcurrent (the
    heaters) even if the motor nameplate current rating appears to be
    within the breaker rating.  This can happen if you continuously
    overload the motor; motor current will then be several times the
    nameplate rating.  There may be other signs of this.  The motor may
    become extremely hot (spit sizzles on the casing).  This is General
    Electric's way of telling you to slow down.

    Breakdown torque:  Single-phase induction motors, unless they are
    designed for torquemotor operation, have a "breakdown" torque rating.
    This refers to the motor torque-versus-rpm curve, which has a peak
    torque somewhere between zero rpm and rated rpm.  If the motor is
    running and load is applied, the motor slows and torque increases
    until breakdown torque is reached.  At this point, further rpm
    reduction causes a reduction of motor-supplied torque, and the motor
    rpm reduces rapidly to zero (it "breaks down").  This is why a saw,
    for instance, appears to suddenly stall as it is overloaded.

    Ventilation: Most motors have one of two kinds of ventilation: fan-
    cooled open housing, or totally enclosed, fan-cooled (TEFC) housing.
    In the former type, a fan attached to the motor shaft draws air
    through the internal parts of the motor and blows it out of
    ventilation slots cut into the motor housing.  Most universal motors
    are of this type because of the need to cool the brushes and to
    exhaust brush carbon dust and commutator copper fragments.  In the
    TEFC type, the motor housing is completely enclosed and no air
    gets to the internal parts of the motor.  Instead, internal heat
    is conducted through the metal housing to fins, where air blown
    by an external fan removes the heat.  Some induction motors have
    this kind of (more expensive) ventilation and they are often used
    in applications where excessive dust or flammable conditions exist.

    Drive gear:  Surprisingly enough, even though many people will look
    at motor horsepower rating, they often completely ignore the drive
    gear attaching the motor to its load.  The drive gear is often a clue
    to the real power rating of the motor-drive combination.  It's
    difficult to determine the rating of enclosed gears, but v-belts
    can give an immediate visual clue.  While larger pulleys increase
    a v-belt rating, a nominal rule of thumb is about one horsepower
    per 1/2 inch v-belt.  Two 5/8 v-belts on large pulleys may be good
    for 4 or 5 horsepower.  One small belt on a motor which "develops"
    3 horsepower is cause for some suspicion.  Actual belt drive ratings
    can be found in manufacturers handbooks (see Gates, for example) or
    in Machinery's Handbook.

    Motor Starters:  Motor starters are big relays mounted in expensive
    metal boxes with heater overloads matched to the motor they start.
    They serve two purposes: 1) The relay contacts are heavy duty and
    are rated for the motor starting current.  Delicate contacts, such
    as those on a pressure switch, will fail if used directly to
    start a large motor.  Delicate contacts are therefore wired to
    operate the motor starter relay rather than the motor.  2)  Wall-
    mounted circuit breakers are designed to protect building wiring,
    not motors plugged into wall receptacles.  If your electrical box
    circuit breaker trips before your motor burns up, it is incidental,
    not on purpose.  However, motor starters are designed to trip on
    heater overload before the motor they start burns up.

    How much horsepower:  This question is often asked and has no easy
    answer.  This is because the amount of horsepower you need depends
    upon your patience, your preferences, and the way you use the
    machine in question.  Here are some pros and cons.  A larger
    horsepower motor (and associated drive gear) has a thicker shaft
    and is typically more robust than a smaller horsepower motor.  It
    responds to overloads and hard cuts more strongly, and may not stall
    in your application.  It does not use very much more power, since
    electric motors use only power demanded plus some motor losses (which
    are somewhat larger for higher rated motors).  On the down side, the
    initial expense of the motor and drive gear is greater.  Higher
    horsepower often requires 230 volt wiring.  The motor and associated
    drive gear and mountings are heavier.  A smaller horsepower motor
    is cheaper, lighter, and may run on 115 volts.  For a careful worker,
    the torque supplied may be sufficient.  On the down side, the tool
    may stall more often and wet wood may be impossible to cut.  The
    drive gear may be less robust and may require more maintenance.  If
    the tool is operated in overload, the 115 volt circuit breaker may
    trip.




-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


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Archive-name: woodworking/faq/faq
Last-modified: 04/26/96

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

I have been reading and archiving rec.woodworking since its inception
as net.rec.wood back in 1984. Below are some of the topics that seem to
come up frequently.

If you have any constructive comments please let me know. If there is
something you would like to see added please pass it on to me.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
	1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?
	2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
		the stacking (chipper type)?
	3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
		shortcomings?
	4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?
	5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?
	6). How do I remove paint?
	7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?
	8). Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?
	9). What is the best woodworking magazine?
	10). What is a board foot?
	11). What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?
	12). What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of
		woodworking?
	13). How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?
	14). What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?
	15). How do I finish the edge of plywood?
	16). Which saw blade should I buy?
	17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking?
	18). Where can I find cradle plans?
	19). Where can I find futon plans?
	20). Where can I get information about particle board?
	21). What are some of the common woodworking terms/abbreviations?
	22). How do I finish a cutting board?
	23). What is snipe and how do I eliminate it?
	24). How is lumber graded?


1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?

	Table saws work best for ripping. Radial arm saws work best for
	crosscutting, but are limited by their arm's length. Both 
	saws will perform both tasks. The radial arm is more adaptable for 
	non-sawing tasks. For instance, overhead routing, surface planing, and 
	drum sanding attachments are available for some radial arm saws. You
	can buy a disk sanding attachment for use on most table saws.

	Ripping on the radial arm saw is difficult because it is necessary
	to push the lumber under the motor housing.  This problem can be
	minimized by use of pushsticks and holddown wheels. Maximum rip width
	is normally limited by the length of the arm. Building a secondary rip
	fence on the other side of the table from the column will enable you to
	rip wider pieces, but the off-cut piece width is then limited. Radial
	arm saws are more prone to overheating during rips in thick wood since
	the teeth stay in the cut longer, unless you cut substantially into
	the table top and even then there is no place for the sawdust to exit.

	Crosscutting on the table saw is difficult because it is tough to
	keep a board much longer than 4 ft square to the blade.  This
	problem can be minimized by building a good sliding panel cutter. Some
	table saws have built-in sliding tables, and aftermarket sliding table
	attachments are available for most saws. A couple of saws have sliding
	arbors, enabling them to work as inverted radial arm saws. The arbors
	typically don't slide as far as the length of many radial arms (for a
	review of 2 of these saws, see the April 1992 issue of FWW).

	Both saws are capable of accurate work. The radial arm saw, with its
	cantilevered arm attached to a cantilevered column, is typically less
	rigid than the table saw, which usually have their arbor trunions 
	bolted to the table in a wide pattern. Worn arm bearing in radial arm 
	saws can also contribute to wander in the cut. In table saws, play of
	the miter gauge bar will adversely affect accuracy.

	Both table saws and radial arm saws need to be aligned to work
	optimally. There are more aligning tasks to be performed on a radial
	arm saw than on a table saw. Radial arm saws typically require
	realignment more frequently than table saw, perhaps because of the 
	stresses put on the cantilevered assemblies.

	Radial arm saws don't need as much space around them as table saws for
	performing equivalent tasks. On the radial arm saw, boards are always
	oriented the same way whether you are ripping or crosscutting, so you
	need space to the left and right of the	blade, and only as wide as the
	widest board you're cutting. On the table saws, boards are oriented at 
	right angles depending on whether you're ripping or crosscutting. Thus,
	you need space in front and in back for ripping, and to the left and 
	right as well for crosscutting.

	It seems to be easier to engineer and manufacture a table saw than a
	radial arm saw, which has more moving parts that must withstand large
	forces without deflection or play. It can therefore be argued that if
	you're on a budget, a cheap table saw may work better for you than a 
	cheap radial arm saw.

	Some people say the radial arm saw is more dangerous because the blade
	is exposed above the work surface, and because the blade's location
	varies as the cut progresses. Angled crosscutting is particularly
	dangerous since the blade is now cutting where one normally holds the
	work. The spin direction of the blade tends to lift the work off of
	the table when ripping, and can pull the carriage into the work
	(resulting in binding of the saw or serious injury to a careless
	operator) in the crosscut position. So-called "safety-blades" have
	a shoulder in front of each tooth, thus limiting the amount of pull
	generated and reducing these tendencies.

	Some people say the table saw is more dangerous because you can't 
	see where the blade is like you can with the radial arm saw. On the
	other hand, the blade is always in the same spot on the table. The
	spin action of the table saw's blade tends to keep the work down on
	the table, but it can also throw the work, and off-cuts, back at the
	operator.

	Both machines are very dangerous and should be treated with much
	respect.

	As with all tool buying decisions, you should consider your intended
	applications, both now and in the future. The general consensus is that
	if you're building things like jungle gyms, house additions, or trim
	work (moldings), a radial arm saw may be best. If you're building 
	things like fine furniture or cabinets, a table saw may be more a
	more appropriate choice.

	A number of people have reported that the addition of a motorized
	miter box to a table saw is a satisfying combination.

	Taunton Press publishes a softcover book titled "Fine Woodworking on
	The Small Workshop." It contains a number of articles on designing and
	buying equipment for small shops, but is geared to furnituremaking.
	The majority of the recommendations are for getting a table saw first,
	with one writer claiming a bandsaw is the first tool to buy.

2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
the stacking (chipper type)?

	The wobble type is very simple to use with infinite settings
	between approximately 1/4 inch and 13/16 inch. It does not produce
	true right angle cuts because of the design. 

	The chipper type doesn't have the same infinite setting for width.
	You can achieve nearly infinite settings by adding shims with
	thicknesses of 1/32, 1/64, 1/128, etc.  It will cut a square bottom
	on the dado, but it will also leave 2 grooves on the edges of the
	dado. The reason for this is that the blades are slightly larger
	than the chippers.  The larger blades are to reduce the splintering.
	The blades can be reground to be equal to the size of the chippers
	at the possible cost of increased splintering. Some say the grooves
	are a benefit because they provide relief for gluing joints. 

	Many people claim that the wobble type is easier to set up.

	The August 1991 Fine Woodworking further studies the features of
	the various types of dado blades.

3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
shortcomings?

	Your best bet would be to cut it with a router.

4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?

	Most people agree that the Sears stationary power tools sold today
	aren't the same quality as the Sears tools sold 20 years ago.  
	It can be argued that if you can't afford to buy a Delta, then
	you should be looking at one of the Taiwanese clones rather than
	looking at Sears.

5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?

	It depends on how much money you have. If you can afford the
	Delta blurfl you should probably get it. Buyers should be
	wary that not all Taiwanese clones are quality machines. The
	general consensus is that Grizzly has good quality control.

	It should be noted that some of Delta tools are now being made
	in Taiwan. One would hope that Delta quality control is better than
	some of the cheaper imports.


6). How do I remove paint?

	There are many ways to strip paint from wood.

	Paint can be removed by scraping and/or sanding.
	Paint can be removed by using chemical paint removers.
	Paint can be removed by using heat.
	Paint can be removed by sandblasting.
	Paint can be removed by a new product known as Peel-Away.
	Rumor has it that oven cleaner also works.

	If you know of another way to remove paint please feel free to pass
	the information along. 

7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?

	The general consensus is that hot melt glue is not adequate
	for woodworking projects. However, hot melt glue guns can
	have a place in the shop. Many people like to use them for
	tacking items together such as when building forms or jigs.

8) Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?

	Plans for any of Norm's projects can be ordered for $7.50 from

        (project name)
        New Yankee Workshop
        P.O. Box 645
        Bedford, MA  01730

	Videos, which include a copy of the plans, cost $24.95 plus shipping
	and handling, from 800-272-0280.  Both the address and phone number
	are given at the end of each show.

	Most of the projects from the first two seasons are in the two
	New Yankee Workshop books.  For the workbench, one important
	dimension is *not* given in the book, though it can, I think,
	be calculated.

9) What is the best woodworking magazine?

	There are many good woodworking magazines. Two that are frequently
	recommended in this group are Fine Woodworking and Woodsmith.

	Fine Woodworking is a bit on the artsy side and more for the
	experienced woodworker. It does not get into the small details
	of a project.

	Woodsmith provides much more details for projects. Woodsmith is
	well suited for both the amateur and experienced woodworker.

10) What is a board foot?

	A board foot is a common unit used in the measurement of wood.
	It is equal to 1 foot length x 1 foot width x 1 inch thick.
	It should be noted that the thickness is nominal thickness.
	After drying and surfacing the usual thickness of a 1 inch
	board is 13/16.

	A board 10 feet long x 1 foot wide x 2 inches thick would be
	equal to 20 board feet.

11) What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?

	Use the right amount of glue.  The (obvious) danger is a glue
	starved joint.

	 Wipe off the excess glue immediately with a damp sponge or paper
	towel.  This method gets mixed reviews.  Some claim the water-glue
	mixture will soak into the wood and show up when the piece is finished.
	Others say that this is not a problem.  The effectiveness of this
	method probably depends on the type of wood and finish that are used.

	Allow the glue to harden somewhat (1/2 - 2 hrs) and then
	chisel/scrape it off.  Some recommend removing the glue after it
	begins to film over.

	Either finish the pieces ahead of time or apply paste wax.  This
	should prevent the glue from sticking.  The problem with this is
	removing the paste wax prior to finishing.

	Use a plastic drinking straw cut at 45 degrees to scoop the glue
	out of the inside corner.  As the straw fills up, it can be trimmed to
	provide a fresh surface.

12) What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of woodworking?

	Thanks to Ken Smith (kensmith@cs.Buffalo.EDU) for providing the
	ISBN numbers along with a couple of additions to the list.

	GENERAL WOODWORKING
		Cabinetmaking and Millwork - John L. Feirer
			ISBN 0-02-675950-0
		New Yankee Workshop - Norm Abram
			ISBN 0-316-00454-5
		Classics From The New Yankee Workshop - Norm Abram
			ISBN 0-316-00455-3
		Mostly Shaker - Norm Abram
			ISBN 0-316-00473-1
		Encyclopedia of Furniture Making - Ernest Joyce
			ISBN 0-8069-6441-3


	FINISHING
		The Woodfinishing Book - Michael Dresdner
			ISBN 1-56158-037-6

	INTRODUCTORY WOODWORKING
		Basic Woodworking - Sunset Books
			ISBN 0-376-0-1628-0

	JOINERY
		Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery Tools and Techniques
				- Tage Frid
			ISBN 0-918804-03-5
		Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Shaping, Veneering, Finishing
				- Tage Frid
			ISBN 0-918804-11-6 (out of print though)
		Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Furniture Projects
				- Tage Frid
			ISBN 0-918804-40-X


	TOOLS
		Router Jigs and Techniques - Patrick Spielman
			ISBN 0-8069-6694-7
		200 Original Shop Aids & Jigs for Woodworkers -Rosario Capotosto

	WOOD
		Understanding Wood - R. Bruce Hoadley
			ISBN 0-918804-05-1

13) How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?

	a.  Behlens Salad Bowl Finish.  This product has been approved by
	    the FDA for use on objects that will come in contact with
	    food.  It produces a nice, semi-gloss finish.
	    (Apparently the can no longer states the FDA approval, but
	     product is still safe for food contact after appropriate
	     drying time - 12/30/94).
	b.  Any vegetable oil. Could become rancid after a period of time.
	c.  Walnut oil.  It reacts with the air and hardens into a true
	    finish.  It works particularly well when the oil is heated
	    and the item is dipped into the warm oil. Available at health
	    food or large grocery stores.  Don't buy the gourmet stuff!
	d.  Mineral oil or vaseline.
	e.  Water-based polyurethanes.  These are new products which are
	    very different from the more familiar oil-based
	    polyurethanes.  They are totally non-toxic, dry quickly, and
	    have no strong odors when applying.
	f.  Pure Tung Oil. It has no driers or solvents. It is essentially
	    just a vegetable oil but produces a nice finish that won't go
	    rancid. Use only Tung Oil that is "pure".
	g.  Rumor has it that shellac is also safe once it dries. I have
	    been unable to verify this.
	h.  Watco claims its oils are suitable for food or baby use if they've  
	    been allowed to dry for 30 days or more. They claim that it takes  
	    this time for full polymerization.
	i.  Paint. Some paints claim to be non-toxic when dry.
	h.  Leave items unfinished.

	If you are unsure about any finish you plan to use, contact the
	manufacturer and request the information. You can also request
	an MSDS (Materials Safety Data Sheet).

14) What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?

  Screw Gage    Shank    Shank     Pilot     Pilot
   Number        Hole    Size      Soft Wd   Hard Wd
       0         1/16    .060      1/64      1/32
       1         5/64    .073      1/32      1/32
       2         3/32    .086      1/32      3/64
       3         7/64    .099      3/64      1/16
       4         7/64    .112      3/64      1/16
       5         1/8     .125      1/16      5/64
       6         9/64    .138      1/16      5/64
       7         5/32    .151      1/16      3/32
       8         11/64   .164      5/64      3/32
       9         3/16    .177      5/64      7/64
      10         3/16    .190      3/32      7/64
      11         13/64             3/32      1/8
      12         7/32    .216      7/64      1/8
      14         1/4     .242      7/64      9/64
      16         17/64   .268      9/64      5/32
      18         19/64   .294      9/64      3/16
      20         21/64   .320      11/64     13/64

15) How do I finish the edge of plywood?
	a) Wood tape. It comes in 2 forms, one that can be ironed on, and
	   one that can be contact cemented on. The tape is approximately
	   1 inch wide, and can be trimmed with a plane, router, or knife.
	b) Glue strips of wood, either purchased or cut from lumber.

16). Which saw blade should I buy?
	There is an excellent article on evaluating carbide tipped
	sawblades in issue #72 of Fine Homebuilding (March 1992).

	To summarize the article:

	An expensive blade will typically last longer than a cheap
	blade and the cost difference is made up by the number of
	extra sharpenings available from the investment.

	A blade that has been tensioned will run truer and cost more
	than a blade that hasn't been tensioned.

	Carbide blades will last up to 60 times longer than steel blades.

17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking?
	There are 2 archives that I know about.

	The first is <ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking>.
	Currently it contains summaries of past discussions of tools, some
	safety related notes, and some of the FAQ postings. Below is
	the current list of files available for ftp from cs.rochester.edu:

		 15496 Sep 28 14:48 address
		128083 Oct  7 11:36 bandsaw
 		 51637 Sep 28 15:21 biscuit_joiners
  		  6125 Oct 28 09:13 crib_safety
 		 42264 Oct  1 09:05 dust_collect
		106944 Sep 29 09:29 jointer
 		 15746 Sep 28 16:03 miter_saw
 		 16610 Oct  5 13:39 motors
 		 52704 Sep 29 10:51 planer
 		 44905 Oct  1 14:15 radial_saw
		140134 Oct  6 13:01 routers
 		 54977 Feb 19 11:19 ryobi.bt3000
 		 48837 Oct 27 10:35 sander_belt
 		 42432 Oct 27 10:39 sander_misc
 		 47661 Oct 27 10:40 sander_random-orbit
  		  7975 Feb  5 12:44 sawzall
 		 34745 Oct  1 09:23 scrollsaw
 		 27066 Nov 12 11:27 shop_heat
 		 26377 Oct 28 09:17 toy_safety

	The second is petroglyph.cl.msu.edu (or 35.8.3.50).

		FTP: /pub/woodwork/images/furniture

		URL (World Wide Web client):

		Use your favorite WWW client to open the URL:

		http://petroglyph.cl.msu.edu/~tigger/WoodWorkPhoto.html

		For example using Mosaic, you could type:

		Mosaic http://petroglyph.cl.msu.edu/~tigger/WoodWorkPhoto.html


18). Where can I find cradle plans?

	1.  Garrett Wade
		$9.95 for plans for a "rocking cradle
		item number 14A03.SA in their 1993 tools catalog

	2.  The Woodworkers' Store
		$4.95 for plans for a "four post cradle"
		item number 40360 in their 1991-2 catalog

	3.  The August 1990 issue of Fine Woodworking has an article about
		making a cradle.

	4. Bartley offers a cradle kit for $199.  If it's up to the quality
		of their other kits, this should be good.

	5. Woodsmith issue #48 - cradle with frame and panel ends with
		arched-top panels.


19). Where can I find futon plans?

	1. TODAYS WOODWORKER JULY/AUG 1989, VOL 1 NO. 4
		Queen size futon folded in half length wise.
		Very attractive Futon sofa bed frame for queen size
		futon (possibly Swedish modern). Unfolds to make bed,
		breaks down for moving.  Elegant design with lots of
		mortise and tenon joinery.

	2. WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL NOV/DEC 1992 VOL 16 NO. 6
		"Standard" futon frame for standard 2 fold futon.
		Classic bi fold futon frame for queen size futon. The
		plans claim to be (and appear to be) appropriate for
		"even beginning woodworkers".

	3. Fine Woodworking    July/August '89 NO. 77

	4. Specialty Furniture Designs (800-892-4026)
		Design "WSN-15" $14.95
		Catalog $2.00
		Attractive (modern) Sofa like futon frame fro singe fold
		futon (futon folds once (the long way)).  Plans for both
		twin (39 x 75) and full (54 x 75).
		Plans are a large single sheet of blue print like drawings
		with associated text, construction looks reasonable and
		pictures of the finished project look good, but the plans
		are a bit intimidating

	5. Popular Woodworking SEP 1992, issue #68
		"Knock-Down Couch"
		Attractive Mission / Craftsman like design for a sturdy,
		knock-down couch. The plans are not specifically for
		futons but could be easily adapted to a single fold futon
		(might not need to be adapted).

	6. Today's Woodworker, Volume 26, Page 8
		Contemporary Futon Sofa Bed 

	7. The Family Handyman Volume 6/94, Page 72
		Double Bed Futon Sofa

	8. Wood February 1996, issue #86
		Fantastic Futon


20). Where can I get information about particle board?

	The following was provided by Stavros Macrakis (macrakis@osf.org)
	and was added to the FAQ with his permission.

	*********************************************************************
	For technical information on particleboard (PB), the National
	Particleboard Association puts out some very nice free pamphlets,
	which I summarize below.  Although they are basically addressed to
	industrial users, they cover particleboard joint techniques quite well
	for the rest of us.  Some of the facts about joints are very surprising.

	I've tried to summarize the essential information below, but you can
	also order copies from: NPA, 18928 Premiere Court, Gaithersburg,
	MD 20879.

	Specifier's Guide to PB and MDF

  	Abstract
		There are 15 ANSI grades of particleboard, with diverse
  	properties.  For instance, face screwing strength varies from 90-450
  	lb, stiffness from 80,000-500,000 psi.  Recommendations are given
  	for matching grade to use.

	Dowel Holding Strength of PB and MDF

  	Abstract
		Dowels joints are one of the cost common adhesive-based
  	furniture assembly joints.  Dowelling is a simple, inexpensive, and
  	reliable means of making butt and miter joints.  Joint strength is
  	largely determined by the holding power of the dowels.  Use good
  	quality dowels, diameter <= 0.5x the stock thickness.  The longer
  	the dowel, the greater the strength.  Holes should be 0.005"
  	oversized for edges, same as dowel on faces.  Use 60%+ solids
  	content PVA adhesive, applying glue to both dowel and hole wall,
  	with slight squeeze-out.

	Adhesive-based Corner Joints for PB and MDF

  	Abstract
		The thicker the panel, the stronger the joint.  Simple butt
  	joints' strength is limited by delamination; glue blocks or edge
  	banding help.  Dowel joints are standard, and work well; they should be
  	glued only at the dowels, NOT between edge and face (!).  Four dowels
  	for 18" are standard.  Biscuits have equivalent strength, but are
  	easier to align at assembly.  The strength of a well-made simple miter
  	joint without reinforcement (dowels, etc.) is generally comparable to
  	that of dowelled butt joints (!); dowels add little strength, but
  	splines and biscuits do.  Rabbets 1/3-1/2 the depth of the panel make
  	strong joints, but tend to split.  Dados are better, but less
  	attractive.  Rabbet and dado butt corner joints (= dado and tenon =
  	dado box corner) combine a dado on one panel and a rabbet on the other.
  	Dowelled butt joints are stronger (!).  Dovetails are excellent, but
  	require precise and time-consuming machining.  Molded polyurethane
  	joints (plastic splines) are as strong as or stronger than dowel
  	joints.

	Metal Fasteners for PB and MDF

  	Abstract
		Screws, nails, and staples are widely used.  Screws are
  	strongest.  The type of screw affects strength by only +-10% (!), but
  	PB screws are less likely to break.  Screw diameter affects strength
  	little, but screw length directly affects it.  Screw diameter should
  	not exceed 20% of stock thickness.  High internal bond strength PB
  	holds screws better.  Edge screws have half the strength of face
  	screws.  Use full-length pilot holes; shorter holes do not increase
  	strength.  Ideal tightening is 3/4 turn past flush on the face; 3/8
  	past flush on the edge.  Applying glue in the hole can increase
  	strength as much as 45%.
		Staples are used for attaching fabric, etc., and to hold glued
  	joints.
		Nails split panels, so should be >3" from a corner, and >6"
  	apart.  Ring shank nails hold better, plastic coated best.  Drive
  	them at an angle.

	Mechanically-based Corner joints for PB and MDF

  	Abstract
		Most bolt and cam joints are 20-50% weaker than dowelled joints.
  	Screw joints are comparable.  Plastic corner block units can be much
  	stronger in outward bending, but only comparably strong in inward.
  	Even when they are equally strong, mechanically-based joints are often
  	less rigid.  These systems are most useful for ready-to-assemble
  	manufactured kit furniture.

	Particle Shelf Systems (Builder's Bulletin #1)

		(not seen)


	All the above are free.  They also sell:

	Particleboard from Start to Finish $12.50

  	Abstract (theirs, I haven't seen this)
		Ten chapters (120pp) of useful information for users of PB.
  	Includes information on material handling and storage, sanding,
  	machining and tooling, laminating, wet finishing, edge treatments,
  	assembly and fastening, construction products, shelving and
  	formaldehyde.

	MDF from Start to Finish $7.50

  	Similar abstract, 42 pp.
	*********************************************************************

21). What are some of the common woodworking terms/abbreviations?

	HVLP - high volume/low pressure
	RAS - radial arm saw
	ROS - random orbital sander
	S2S - smooth 2 sides - surfaced 2 sides
	MDF - medium density fiberboard

22). How do I finish a cutting board?

	See the answer to question 13. 

23). What is snipe and how do I eliminate it?
	End snipe occurs when the wood looses contact with the infeed roller
	and allows it to rise slightly from the bed of the planer. Snipe can
	also happen on the beginning of the board as well. Snipe can be
	minimized or eliminated by providing support along the full length
	of the board on both the infeed and outfeed sides of the planer.
	Proper tuning of the planer is also important in minimizing snipe.

	Another way to minimize snipe is to do all of the planing before
	cutting pieces to length. This way the only snipe loss in confined
	to the end of 1 piece of wood.

24). How is lumber graded?
	
	The following was provided by David R. Mount
	(dmount@bigcat.missouri.edu) and added to the FAQ with his
	permission.

	*********************************************************************

	The "Encyclopedia of Wood" from Sterling publishing is a good
	source of this information, a synopsis of which I'll provide here.
	 As I recall (don't have it in front of me) Bruce Hoadley's book
	"Understanding Wood" has a comparable treatment.

	I'll give a brief summary of dimensions and grading as follows:

	Softwood Construction Lumber

	Most softwoods (though certainly not all) that are made into finished
	boards are intended to be construction lumber.  This material is
	generally sold according to it's "nominal" dimension, typically 1 by
	something or 2 by something.  Mininum thickness for planed, dry 1-by
	material is 3/4"; dry means average moisture content of 12%, maximum
	of 15%.  Minimum thickness for 2 by material (planed and dry) is
	1-1/2".  For wet or "green" lumber (this includes formerly dry
	material that has been allowed to take up water and has not re-dried)
	minimum surfaced thickness is 25/32" and 1-9/16" for 1-by and 2-by
	material, respectively.  For widths, the rules are the same for
	both 1-by and 2-by material.  For widths up through 7 inches, the
	minimum dry, planed width is 1/2" less than the nominal dimension.
	 So, dry 1x6 and 2x6 material should both be 5-1/2" wide.  For
	widths of 8" and above, the width should be 3/4" less than the
	stated dimension (e.g., 1x10 should be 9-1/4" wide).

	Grading softwoods is complex (though not as bad as hardwoods) and it
	depends on the use (boards versus structural lumber), and the type
	and distribution of defects (tight knots, loose knots, spike knots,
	wane, shake, etc.).  There are several different grading authorities,
	but the board grades most common in the U.S. are (in decreasing order
	of "quality") finish or select, #1 (common), #2 (common), #3 (common),
	and #4 (common).  Structural lumber generally uses different
	terminology including such things as #1, #2, and #3 structural,
	superior, stud, utility, and several others.  Ask your lumber dealer
	to explain the system by which their lumber is graded; there is a
	lot of variation from dealer to dealer.  The "Encyclopedia of Wood"
	has pictures of the board grades; Hoadley's book may also, I
	don't recall.

	Hardwoods

	Standard thicknesses for hardwood lumber are as follows (in inches):

	Nominal (green)       Dressed (dry and planed)
	  Thickness                  Thickness
	-------------------------------------------------
     	2/4                        5/16
     	4/4                       13/16
     	5/4                      1-1/16
     	6/4                      1-5/16
     	8/4                      1-3/4

	Notice that 2/4 lumber is officially listed as only 5/16" planed.  In
	practice, hardwood stores I've been to generally sell material they
	call "2/4" that is actually surfaced to either 1/2" or 7/16".  I
	don't know why.  In my experience, the thicker sizes are typically
	sold as I've listed above.

	Hardwoods are generally sold as random widths, unlike construction
	lumber that has width controlled as tightly as thickness.  In
	general, according to the Encyclopedia of Wood, dry hardwood is
	sold as the next highest inch down to 3/8" shy of the nominal
	dimension for less than 8 inches and 1/2" shy for greater than
	8 inches.  In other words, a 6" wide board may be as narrow as
	5-5/8", a 10" board as narrow as 9-1/2".  In practice, hardwood
	dealers vary in how they figure width into the board foot
	calculation; some go to the nearest inch, some to the nearest half
	inch, some to the exact dimension.  Don't be shy to ask a dealer
	how he/she makes the calculation; you have a right to know.

	Grading hardwoods is *really* complex.  Grades are determined by
	number, width, and length of clear (free of knots and other defects)
	cuttings that could be obtained from the board, which is in turn
	determined by the number and location of defects, primarily knots.
	 The top three grades are "firsts", "seconds", and "select(s)". 
	Hardwood dealers typically sell these grades together as "firsts
	and seconds" (known as FAS) or "select and better" (SAB).  In
	short, if all the defects were cut out of these boards, they
	should yield between 83.3% and 100% of pieces with at least one
	clear face.  The specific grading rules are much more complex,
	but this is the general idea.  Note that there has been a movement to
	relax the requirements somewhat for black walnut.  I also believe that
	many dealers sell wood as "FAS" that actually contains some select
	material; it's not a big deal usually, unless you need big wide long
	clear boards and are buying sight unseen.

	After these top three grades follows #1 common and #2 common.  These
	grades allow a lower percentage of the board to yield clear cuttings
	(BTW, "cuttings" means smaller boards) and allows the cuttings to be
	narrower and shorter than in the better grades.  #1 common should
	yield 66.6% to 100% clear cuttings (depending on the board size)
	while #2 common will yield 50% to 66.6%.

	A couple notes about #1 and #2 common boards.  First, they are often
	not displayed right out front by a hardwood dealer; if you are
	interested in lower grades, ask about them.  #1 and #2 boards can
	sometimes be a better buy; they are generally 20 to 70% cheaper
	than FAS boards so the cost per square inch of clear lumber may be
	lower if obtained from lower grade boards.  Of course, this requires
	that you can use smaller pieces; you also have to figure in the cost
	of your time to cut around the knots.  On the other hand, in more
	casual pieces I often leave some knots in the finished piece if
	they won't cause structural problems.  Some of the most beautiful
	figure occurs near knots.  Each person will weigh these variables
	differently.

	*********************************************************************
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


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Archive-name: woodworking/addresses/list
Last-modified: 3/27/97

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 


Some of the more popular addresses/phone numbers used by woodworkers are 
included below. If you want to see some addresses added to this list please
let me know.

This is compiled from messages that have been posted to the group over the
past few years, and from vendors that I have used. This is not an endorsement
of any of the vendors listed.

*******************************************************************

Accurate Screw Machine Co		(201) 661-2600
19 Baltimore Street			(201) 661-3408 (FAX)
Nutley, NJ 07110
	Every oddball fastener you could think of.

Advanced Machinery Sales (AMS)		(302) 322-2226
POB 312
New Castle, DE 19720
	Selling Hegner, Felder, AMI

Air Handling Systems by Manufacturers Service Co., Inc.
5 Lunar Dr				(800) 367-3828
Woodbridge, CT 06525			(800) 438-7135 (FAX)
<http://www.airhand.com/airhand/>
	Dust and fume collection components, i.e. spiral pipe, fittings,
	and flexhose.

Allied Bolt & Screw Corporation		(800) 877-2907
90 Wareham Street			(617) 542-2907
PO Box 180180
Boston, MA 02118-0180
<http://www.tiac.net/users/bobegee>	email: sales@alliedbolt.com
	All kinds of fasteners and closet type anchors, etc, including
	the new FASTAP self-drilling, self-countersinking screw. As well as
	stocking 'standard' fasteners, they also stock square drive screws,
	tamperproof screws, stainless, brass, bronze, galvanized, and
	aluminum screws.

AMT (American Machine and Tool Company)		(610) 948-0400
Fourth Avenue and Spring Street
Royersford, PA 19468
	Name is somewhat of a misnomer since much if not all the tools
	are imports. Similar to Grizzly catalog with more hand tools.

Arrowsmith & Lang-Borne				(304) 584-4246
Washington & Main St. Box 126			(800) 544-4283
Lumberport WV 26386
	Dust collector parts. Variety of sizes and gauges. Also
	has a booklet on dust collection for woodworkers.

Ballew Saw & Tool			(800) 288-7483
325 S. Kimbrough			(417) 865-7511
Springfield, MO 65806
	Shaper cutters, amana router bits, freud blades.

Barr Specialty Tools			(208) 634-3641
P.O. Box 4335				(800) 235-4452
McCall ID  83638
	Hand forged socket chisels, slicks, drawknives, and an adz.

The Bartley  Collection			(800) 787-2800
29060 Airpark Drive
Easton MD 21601
	Antique Reproduction Furniture Kits, typically 17th. 18th. century
	stuff, the woods of choice are Mahogany and Cherry.  The pieces
	range from small tables, stools, mirrors, etc to large highboys,
 	four poster beds etc.  Prices for kits ranges from about $100 to
	$3,000. No plans are available.

Berea Hardwoods				(216) 234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Berea OH 44017
	"Specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
	more mundane species.  The proprietor is fun to talk to."

Bob Morgan's Woodworking Supplies	(502) 456-2545
1123 Bardstown Road
Louisville, KY 40204
	Hardwoods, veneers, veneering tools and hand tools.

The Bonyman Company			(508) 658-4868
70 Chestnut Road			(508) 988-9586 (FAX)
Tewksbury, MA 01876
<http://www.simplicity.net/business/bonyman/>
	Jig for oval picture frames and curved molding.

Bridge City Tool Works			(800) 253-3332
        Squares and straightedges.  Very high prices and quality.

Brookstone				Orders: (603) 924-9541 (24 hours)
127 Vose Farm Road			Customer service: (800) 846-3000
Peterborough, NH 03458
	Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog. Brookstone
	has a number of stores around the country. You can sometimes find
	specific items for less elsewhere.

Burdens Surplus				(800) 488-3407
1015 West "O" St.			(402) 474-4055
Lincoln, NE  68501-2209
	 Burden's has a large selection of new and used motors, pumps, 
	blowers and the like at reasonable prices. 

Cascade Tool Co.			(800) 235-0272
Box 848					In WA 236-027M-F 7-7 PT
Mercer Island, WA
	Router and shaper bits. All kinds.

Certainly Wood				(716) 655-0206
11753 Big Tree Road, Rt. 20A		(716) 655-3446 (FAX)
East Aurora, NY 14052
	Large selection of veneers and exotic hardwoods.

Cherry Tree Toys			(614) 484-4363 (24 hours)
POB 369,
Belmont, OH 43718
	Wood toys. Kits, parts, plans, books.

Chown Hardware & Machinery		(800) 547-1930
333 N.W. 16th Ave			Oregon (800) 452-7634
Portland, OR 97209			Local (503) 243-6500
	This company has been around a long time, since 1879.
	Nice catalog, fair prices, and a flyer that they send out
	every month with the current specials.

Classic Woodcraft Supply		(714) 532-4677
396 W Chapman Ave
Orange, CA
	Tools & Supplies for cabinetmaking, finishing, woodturning, carving
	and sharpening

CMT					(800) 531-5559
310 Mears Blvd				(800) 870-7702 (FAX)
Oldsmar, FL 34677			(813) 891-6160
<http://cmttools.com/catalog>
	Router Bits, Jointer & Planer Blades, Saw Blades

Constantines				(800) 223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road			In NY (800)822-1202 -disconnected 10/92
Bronx, NY 10461
	Probably the oldest woodworking company in the country (176 years)
	Wide selection of tools, woods, veneers, and hardware.

Craft Supplies USA			(801) 373-0917
1287 East 1120 South			(800) 551-8876
Provo, Utah  84601
	They specialize in wood turning supplies, Lathes, Bandsaws
	Turning Chisels, Chucks, some wood, and parts for turnings;
	like pepper mills, etc.

Craftman's Corner, Inc.			 515-265-3239
4012 N.E. 14th Street
P.O. Box AP
Des Moines, Iowa  50302
	[no other information]

Craftsman Wood Service Company		(708) 629-3100
1735 W. Cortland CT			(312) 629-3100
Addison, IL 60101			(800) 543-9367 (orders)
	Small format hand tools and related supplies. Veneer,hard wood,turning
	blocks,excellent selection of hardware, books  and plans and toys.

Craftwoods				(800) 468-7070
2101 Greenspring Dr.
Tionium MD 21093
	Common and exotic woods, carving tools, bird carving items,
	 books, videos, and classes.

Cryder Creek Wood Shoppe		(800) 642-9663
Box 19					In NY (607) 356-3303 9-4 EST
Whitesville, NY 14897
	Woodturner's supplies 
	As of 10/18/94 - only sells hardwoods

Delta International			(800) 438-2486
4290 E. Raines Road			(800) 223-7278 Parts and Service
Memphis TN 38118
<http://www.deltawoodworking.com/delta>
	Stationary power tools.

Duane Dahlvang Sales & Dist.		(800) 637-6606
21344 Avenue 332                        (209) 564-8073 (FAX)
Woodlake, CA 93286
	Airstream Dust and Spray Helmets

Eagle America				(216) 286-9334
PO Box 1099				(216) 286-7643 (FAX)
Chardon, Ohio 44024			(800) 872-2511 (orders)
	Router Bits

Econ-Abrasives				(800) 367-4101
PO Box 865021				In TX (214) 377-9779
Plano, TX, 75086-5021			M-F 7:30-5:00 CST
	They carry a wide range of sandpaper (belts, sheet, discs,
	rolls, drums).  Good prices.
  	Minimum order around $20, $4.25 shipping, take MC/VISA.
	The people on the phone KNOW sandpaper - they can help with
	most any abrasives question.

Enco Manufacturing Company		(800) 873-3626
2920 Redhill Ave			(714) 241-9365 (FAX)
Costa Mesa, CA  92626			(714) 979-7171
	Power Tools & Supplies for metal and woodworking.  Drill bits,
	squares, rules, instruments (calipers, dial indicators), etc.

Factory Lumber Outlet
200 Shrewsbury St
Boylston MA
	"Large number of hand tools, books and plans.  Separate wood catalog.

The Fine Tool Journal			(800) 248-8114
Iron Horse Antiques
27 Pickett Rd.
Pownal, ME 04069
	Publication for vintage hand tools.

Foley-Belsaw				Orders: 800 468-4449
6301 Equitable Road			In MO 800 892-8789
Box 419593
Kansas City, MO 64141 
	Large shop equipment: Planers, table saws, combination machines,
	even a sawmill! They send out several free catalogs a year and have
	a number of special offers throughout the year.

Frog Tool Co				(312) 648-1270
700 W. Jackson Blvd.
Chicago, Il 60661
 	Hundreds of woodworking books. All kinds, all woodworking subjects.
	Chisels, spokeshaves, handsaws, bowsaws, planes, and such

Frost Hardwood Lumber Company		(619) 455-9060
6565 Miramar Rd.			(619) 455-0455
San Diego, CA 92112
	Quality exotic wood for hobbyists and people who make small projects.

Garrett Wade				Orders: (800) 221-2942
161 Avenue of the Americas		Customer service: (212)807-1155 M-F 9-5
New York, NY 10013
	One of the finest catalogs. A woodworker's bible of tools. GW also
	has a separate hardware catalog.
	"The prices are good considering the lavish catalog."

Gillom Manufacturing, Inc.
500 Boonslick Road
P.O. Box 1018
St. Charles, MO 63302-1018
	This company sells kits, plans, and parts for build-it-yourself
	stationary power tools. 

Grizzly Imports
2406 Reach Road			POB 2069
Williamsport, PA 17701		Bellingham, WA 98227
(717) 326-3806			(206) 647-0801
(800) 523-4777			(800) 541-5537
M-F 8:30-5:30			M-F 8:30-5:30
Sat 8:30-1
<http://www.grizzlyimports.com/>
	Shop Machinery - Imports.
	Does not ship outside US.

Hartville Tool & Supply			(800) 345-2396 M-S 8:30-5
940 W. Maple Street
Hartville, OH 44632
	Brand name tools. Big discount place.

Hida Tool & Hardware Company			(415) 524-3700
1333 San Pablo Avenue		Store hours: T-S 9-5, Sun 11-4 Closed Mon
Berkeley, CA 94702				(800) 443-5512
	Japanese Hand Tools. Excellent quality saws, planes, chisels, knives
	etc. Prices are commensurate with the quality but reasonable. Hida is
	across from REI in Berkeley.

Highland Hardware			(800) 241-6748
1045 N Highland Ave. NE			(404) 872-4466
Atlanta GA 30306			(404) 876-1941 FAX
	Good source for glues, finishes, etc.  Has Delta tools, good router
	and biscuit joiner selections.  Carries Robland, Delta, General of
	Canada, Performax, Hegner and Multi-Router.
	Online catalog: <http://www.highland-hardware.com/>

Hock Handmade Knives			(707) 964-2782
16650 Mitchell Creek Drive		(707) 964-7816 FAX
Fort Bragg, CA  95437
	Replacement blades for planes, spokeshaves, etc.

Horton Brasses Inc			(860) 635-4400
Nooks Hill Rd				(860) 635-6473 FAX
PO Box 95
Cromwell CT 06416
<http://www.horton-brasses.com>		email: barb@horton-brasses.com
	Hardware for antique furniture. Hepplewhite, Chippendale and Victorian
	brass hardware. Hand forged iron hardware. 

Hiller Hardware				(803) 779-3131 M-F 9-5, Sat 9-1
1411 Assembly Street
POB 1762
Columbia, SC 29202
	Power Tools mostly. Delta, Porter-Cable, Ryobi, Bosch, Inca, Skil,
	Makita, Milwaukee, Freud, and others.

HUT Products for Wood			(800) 547-5461 Orders 8:30 - 5:00
15361 Hopper Road			(314) 875-0472 Service 9:00 - 4:30
Sturgeon, MO 65284 			(314) 875-0472 Fax - after hours
	Creator of Hut Wood Finish (for wood turners).  Distributor of
	Dymondwood for turning pens.  Primary thrust is toward the
	wood pen maker.  Also have supplies for perfume pens.  Sell 
	double mandrels for turning pens.

Industrial Abrasives			(800) 428-2222
642 N 8th Street			In PA (800) 222-2292 
Box 14955
Reading PA 19612
	Sandpaper, sanding drums, assorted abrasives.

IBT (Industrial Bearing and Transmission)	(913) 677-3151
9400 W. 55th Street
Merriam, KS  66203
	High quality machined pulleys, v-belt, red link belt, motor mounts.

International Tool Corporation		(800) 338-3384
1939 Tyler St.				Florida (800) 221-6767
Hollywood, Florida 33020		Mon-Fri 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m EST
					305-792-3560 - Fax
	Bosch, Bostich, Delta, Fein, Freud, Hitachi, HTC, Milwaukee,
	Panasonic, Porter Cable, Rolair, Ryobi, Skil, Stanley.
	All Bosch Router bits are 40% off of list price.

Ivan Whillock Studio			(800) 882-9379 9-5 CT M-Sa
122 1st Ave N.E.
Faribault, Mn. 55021
	Tools, supplies, books, patterns, etc for woodcarving and
	other woodworking.

The Japan Woodworker			(800) 537-7820
1731 Clement Avenue
Alemeda, CA 94501
	Top quality Western and Japanese tools - mostly hand tools like
	planes, chisels, knives, water stones, saws, scissors.  Power
	tools and power tool  accessories like bits and blades.

JET Woodworking Machinery and Supplies		(800) 274-6848
POB 1477					(206) 572-5000
Tacoma, WA 98401
<http://www.jettools.com/>
	Similar to Grizzly. Warehouses throughout the country.

J. Philip Humfrey			(800) 387-9789
3241 Kennedy Road, Unit 7,		In Canada (416)293-8624
Scarborough, Ontario M1V 2J9
(800) 387-9789 In Canada (416)293-8624
	Woodworking Machinery - Shop equipment, General, Excalibur, 
	Concord, Kraemer.

John Stortz and Son			(215) 627-3855
210 Vine Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106
	This catalog may not quite fit into this catagory but Storz is
	one of the only manufacturers of these kinds of tools. They specialize
	in the production of tools for masonry, roofing, shipbuilding, and
	cooperage. They normally sell to the trades and don't take chargecards.

John Wilson				(517) 543-5325
500 E. Broadway
Charlotte, MI 48813
	Shaker box kits.

Jordan International Co			(408) 429-8329
1303 Elmer St.
Belmont, CA 94002
	exotic hardwoods.

Klockit					(800) KLOCKIT 556-2548 M-F 8-8 Sat 8-4
POB 629
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
	Clock Kits. Mason & Sullivan catalog looked better.

Kreg Tool Company			(800) 447-8638
Box 367
201 Campus Drive
Huxley, Iowa 50124
	The Pocket Hole Professional. Pocket hole jigs, etc.

Lab Safety Supply			(800) 356-0783 - Voice orders
PO Box 1368				(800) 543-9910 - Fax orders
Janesville, WI 53547-1368		(800) 356-2501 - Techline
<http://www.labsafety.com>		(800) 356-0722 - Customer Service
	Gloves, goggles, respirators. Excellent service. 500 page catalog.


Leichtung Workshops			(800) 321-6840 (24 hours)
1108 Glenn Road
Casper Wy. 82601
	Kind of like Brookstone but gadget/tool ratio is much higher. 

Lee Valley Tools Ltd.			(613) 596-0350
P.O. Box 6295, Station J		(800) 267-8767
Ottawa, Ont.				(613) 596-6030 - FAX
K2A 1T4					 Mon-Thurs 9-6, Fri 9-9, Sat 9-5
	"Fine woodworking tools. Several stores.  They have a main catalogue, a
	couple of supplements a year, and a hardware catalogue,  Even if you
	don't understand tools at all, the main catalogue is worthwhile
	getting as a coffee table book: glossy paper and beautiful presentation.
	 It makes a wonderful read. They have everything from instrument-maker's
	to log builder's hand tools, Their bottom-of-the-line quality is quite
	servicable, and their top-of-the-line tools are Art, with accompanying
	prices.  The bottom line is: good selection, high quality, reasonable
	prices, *excellent* service. They design and manufacture many quality
	tools under the VERITAS label.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks			(800) 327-2520
<http://www.lie-nielsen.com/>
	Reproductions of discontinued Stanley planes in bronze.  Good quality.

Linden Publishing Co.			(800) 345-4447
352 W. Bedford #105			(209) 227-3520 Fax credit card orders
Fresno, CA 93711-6079			(209) 431-4736 Customer service
	Woodworking books. Lots.

Luthiers Mercantile			(800) 477-4437
PO Box 774				(707) 433-1823
Healdsburg, CA 95448			(707) 433-8802 - FAX
	Wood (esp. thin stock), hand tools, books, finishing and general
	supplies primarily for instrument builders, but also of general
	interest. 230 page catalog $10

Manny's Woodworkers Place		(800) 243-0713 (ORDERS)
555 S. Broadway				(606) 255-5444 (Info/Video Rentals)
Lexington, KY  40508
	Woodworking books and videos. 

McFeeley's Square Drive Screws		(800) 443-7937
712 12th Street				(804) 847-7136 - FAX
P.O. Box 3
Lynchburg VA 24505-0003
	Square drive screws in a huge number of styles and materials;
	screw-related tools; general woodworking stuff like finishes and
	clamps.  The square-drive screws are great and well-priced, the
	other stuff is about 10% higher than the cheapest I've seen.
	 Shipped via UPS the same day for my one order (so far).

Meisel Hardware Specialties            (800) 441-9870 
P.O. Box 70                             (612) 471-8579 (fax)
Mound, MN 55364-0070
	They carry a variety of plans for simple furniture and accessories,
	home accents, whirlygigs and lawn decorations, birdhouses, planters,
	and holiday projects.  They feature a limited selection of hardware
	and turnings for the above plans.

Micro-Mark				(800) 225-1066
340 Synder Ave.
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
	Minature hand and power tools. 3" diameter table saws, mini
	drill presses, lathes, overhead mills, scroll saws,
	beltsander (1"X6"belt), bench grinder, router, radial arm saw,
	band saw, 4"disc sander, and lots of hand tools and accessories.
	Power miter with a maximum stock size of 3/8" thick by 3/4" deep
	at 90 degrees, 1/2" wide at 45 degrees.

Midwest Dowel Works			(513) 574-8488
4631 Hutchinson Rd.
Cincinnati, OH  45248
	Manufacturer of retail/wholesale quantities of dowels in
	a number of different woods, shaker pegs, plugs/buttons, 
	toy parts, craft parts.

MLCS Ltd.				(800) 533-9298
P.O. Box 4053
Rydal, PA  19046
	Router Bits

Moon's Saw Shop Supplies		(800) 447-7371
2531-39 N. Ashland Ave.
Chicago, IL 60614
	General woodworking supplies and router bits.  

MSC INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY CO.		(800) 645-7270
151 SUNNYSIDE BLVD.			(800) 255-5067 (FAX)
PLAINVIEW, NY 11803-1592
	Mostly tools and supplies for industrial machine shops  $25.00 
	minimum order but a 2,085 page catalog that they'll send you
	and monthly sale flyers.  An incredible array of tools, excellent
	service and fast shipping.

National Particleboard Association
18928 Premiere Court
Gaithersburg ND 20879
	Technical information on particle board.

National Wood Carvers Association
P.O. Box 43218
Cincinnati, OH  45243
	The NWCA is a non-profit association covering all forms of wood
	carving.  Annual dues are $8/year, which entitles you to the six
	Chip Chat magazine issues each year.  The NWCA can give you the
	location of the nearest carving club to you.

Northern Hydraulics			(800)533-5545  24 hrs, 7 days
P.O. Box 1499				Minn: (612)894-8310
Burnsville, MN  55337-0499		FAX (612)894-8310
	All kinds of stuff - some woodworking.  Engines, compressors,
	lawn equipment, chain saws, wood spliters, hydraulic fittings,
	air tools, mechanics tools, tool boxes, work benches, playground
	sets, sun glasses, leather jackets, tool kits, winches, trailers,
	jacks, wheels, tires, tractors and even watches.

	Woodworking power tools include Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, Ryobi,
	Porter Cable, Jepson, B&D, Skil, Wen and Delta.  Mostly portable.
	Sorted by tool type.  Average prices.  136 pages.

Packard Woodworks			(800) 683-8876
P.O. Box 718				(704) 859-6762
101 Miller Rd.				(704) 859-5551 FAX
Tryon, NC  28782
	Lots of woodturning tools and supplies.

Paxton Beautiful Woods			(513) 984-8200
Frank Paxton Lumber Co
7455 Dawson Road
Box 43335
Cincinnati OH 45243
	Wholesale and retail lumber, newsletter and classes.

Penn State Industries                   (800) 377-7297
2850 Comly Road                         (215) 676-7603 (fax)
Philadelphia, PA 19154
	They feature a limited selection of tools and equipment primarily 
	for the home workshop.

Philipps Brothers Supply        	(800) 238-4466 (NY)
2525 Kensington Ave.            	(800) 544-4466 (USA)
Amherst, NY  14226-4999
	A large list of power tools for woodworkers and construction
	professionals.  Prices seem pretty good, shipping is usually included.

Pro-Shop				(312) 832-3803
Box 721
Elmhurst, IL 60126
	Woodworking machinery. Imports.

Quaker State Woodworking		(800) 776-5467
	Portable power tools, sanding supplies, clamps, back issues of
	Woodsmith magazine.

RBI					(800) 487-2623
P.O. Box 369
1801 Vine St.
Harrisonville, MO 64701
	RBI Hawk saws

Renaissance Inc.			(216) 867-0630
644 Greenwood Ave.
Akron, Ohio 44320
	Sellers of Old Village finishing products, Old Strubridge Paint Colours
	and Buttermilk Paints as well as QRB Stripper and other restoration
	supplies.

R. Sorsky				(800) 345-4447
3845 N. Blackstone,			In CA (209) 227-2901
Fresno, CA 93726
	Woodworking books. Lots.
	(Acquired by Linden Publishing - see Linden Publishing entry)

Sandvik Tools (sales office)		(800) 481-7404.
	They don't do retail, but will give you a phone number for local
	distributors

Schlosser Tool & Machinery		(800)627-7297
301 Bryant				CO (303)636-1311
Denver, CO  80219			FAX (303)937-9267
	Mostly power tools - industrial, stationary and portable.  Includes 
	Skil, Porter Cable, Delta, Makita, Hitachi, Blum, Bosch, Ryobi, 
	DeWalt, Beisemeyer, Powermatic and others.  Some hand tools like
	Sorby.  Sorted by tool type.  Average to high prices.  75 pages.

Sears
Sears Tower
Chicago. IL 60606

Sears Power and Hand Tools            (800)377-7414
20 Presidential Drive
Roselle, IL 60172
...and just about every other city in the country.
	Power and Hand Tools special catalog.

Seven Corners Ace Hardware		Ordering: 800-328-0457
(Tools on Sale)
216 West 7th St.			In MN: (612) 224-4859
St Paul, MN 55102			Hours: M-F 8-5:30 CST
	Big catalog. Emphasis on portable power tools but they carry a wide
	range of tools and accessories.  Prepaid freight. "..good experiences.

Seyco					(214) 278-3353
P.O. Box 472749
Garland, TX 75047
	Excalibur saws

Shaker Workshops				(508) 827-9900
P.O. Box 8001					(508) 827-6554 - FAX
Ashburnham, Massachusetts 01430-8001
	Shaker furniture kits.

Shopsmith				(800) 543-7586 - Sales
6530 Poe Ave				(800) 762-7555 - Customer Service
Dayton, OH  45424			(513) 898-6070
<http://members.aol.com/shpsmith/index.html>

Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers Supply	(800) 541-5994 - orders
PO Box 82				(423) 448-6350 - Customer Service
Townsend, TN 37882
	Woodcarving supplies.

Sporty's Tool Shop		Orders: (800)543-8633 M-F 9:30-8, Sat 11-3
Batavoia, OH 45103		Customer service: (513) 732-2411
	Some tools. Mostly random stuff for house and yard.

Stone Machinery, Tool and Supply Co., Inc.	(614) 344-9404
138 Union St.
Newark, OH  43055
	Woodworking, Panel Processing; New and Used.  Holz-Her, Powermatic,
	SCMI, MiniMax, Jet, SECO, JDS-Multi-Router, JDS "Air-Tech 2000" Dust
	Filters, NORDFAB Dust Collection Systems and Wood Waste Grinders,
	Hitachi, Panasonic, Milwaukee, Everlast, much more!

Stone Mountain Power Tool Corporation	(800) 262-9599
POB 2825				In GA (404) 446-8390
Norcross, GA
	Woodworking and Construction Tools. Name brands. Reasonable prices.

Suffolk Machinery			(800) 234-SAWS
12 Waverly Avenue			(516) 289-7153
Patchogue, NY 11722-1902		(516) 289-7156 - FAX
	Quality band saw blades

Swing-N-Slide Corp.
1212 Barberry Drive
Janesville, WI  53545
	Playground Equipment

Tarheel Filing Co			(800) 322-6641
3400 Lake Woodard Drive
Raleigh, NC 27604
	Stationary power tools, hand held power tools, router bits,
	saw blades.

Tatro, Inc.                             (800) 748-5827
7011 Marcelle Street                    (310) 633-3173
Paramount, CA 90723                     (310) 630-6668 (fax)
	Tatro carries a wide variety of wooden turnings such as balls, eggs,
	pegs, wheels, rings, beads, beads, fruit, spindles, knobs and dowels.
	They claim, "If you find a better price on the exact same American
	made item, call us...we should be able to match it!"

Taylor Design Group, Inc              (214)243-7943
Dallas, TX 75381
	Makers of Incra Jigs---accurate positioning jigs for routers, table
	and radial arm saws, and drill presses.


The Fine Tool Shops			(800) 533-5305
170 West Road				In NH 443-0409
POB 7091
Portsmouth, NH 03801
	Good catalog, selection and prices. "...fast, reliable service"
	Possibly out of business, nobody answers the phone.

The Sanding Catalog			(800) 228-0000
P.O. Box 5069
Hickory, NC 28603-5069
	Sandpaper and assorted abrasives.

The Taunton Press			(800) 888-8286
63 South Main St.
P.O. Box 355
Newtown, Conn.  06470-9971
	Publisher of Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding and numerous
	quality books on woodworking and homebuilding

The Wood Store				(717) 297-4188
POB 125
Troy, PA 16947
(717) 297-4188
	Hardwoods, carving blocks, basket strips, dollhouse lumber.

The Woodworker's Store			Orders: (612) 428-2199 M-F 8-8 CST
21801 Industrial Blvd.			Customer service: (612) 428-2899
Rogers, MN 55374			(800) 279-4441 (orders)
<http://woodworkerstore.com>
	WWS has 8 stores around the country also. Hardwood, veneers.
	Very good selection of hardware. Hinges, slides, locks, catches,
	pulls and other accessories.

Top Shelf Tools				(717) 289-4686 - Fax/Phone
P.O. Box 232 
Hop Bottom, PA 18824
	Freeborn shaper cutters, Systimatic saw blades, Whiteside router bits,
	Saftey-Speed-Cut panel saws, custom tooling and band saw blades.
	American made items only

Tool Crib of the North			(800) 358-3096
	Formerly Acme Electric. Good power too selection. All major brands
	including Delta, Elu, B&D, Skil, Makita, Milwaukee, Powermatic,
	Bosch, Freud, General, Hitachi. Free freight.

Tools Etc.
Dept 458411 510 East Main St
Louisville KY 40202
	[No other information]

Trendlines				Orders: (800) 767-9999
375 Beacham Street			      (800) 343-3248  Answering machine
Chelsea, MA 02150			Customer service: (617) 884-8882
	Woodworking tools and supplies. Good prices.

Unicorn Studios				(800) 874-5317 (US & Canada)
P.O. Box 370				(615) 984-0145
Seymour, TN 37865
	Music box movements.  They have a few hundred 
	titles reasonably priced (around $4 each - cheaper in quantity).

Vandyke's Restorers			Orders: (800) 843-3320
4th Ave. & 6th St.			(605) 796-4425
PO Box 278
Woonsocket, South Dakota 57385
	Supplies for Upholstery, Antique Restoration, Taxidermy(!),
	wrought nails, several head patterns AND brass plated. Lots
	of antique reproduction hardware.

Warren Tool Co.				(914) 876-7817
Rt. 1 Box 14-A
Rhinbeck, NY 12572
	Carving tools (gouges, parting tools, tec) with interchangeable
	bits/handles.

Whole Earth Access			(800)829-6300
822 Anthony Street			9AM to 6PM PST, 7 days a week
Berkeley, CA  94710			FAX (510)845-8846
	Hand Tools and Power Tools.  Sorted by type of equipment - not brand.
	Bosch, Porter Cable, Makita, Elu, AEG, Ryobi, Milwaukee, Hitachi,
	Skil, Panasonic, B&D, DeWalt and Delta.  Low to average prices.
	48 pages

Wilke Machinery Company			(717) 764-5000
3230 Susquehanna Trail			(717) 764-3778 - FAX
York, PA 17402				(800) 235-2100
	Woodworking machinery. Imports. Large selection. Bridgewood and
	General woodworking machinery.

William Alden Co.			(800) 249-8665
Wholesale Division
27 Stuart Street
Boston, Ma 02116
	Power tools, hand tools, clamps, etc.

Williams Tool & Hardware Supply (bankrupt) (800)788-0007       8AM-6PM CST M-F
2017 White Settlement Road		TX (817)335-4749    9AM-5PM CST Sa
Fort Worth, TX  76107			FAX (817)877-3150
	Stationary and portable power tools, hand tools and supplies.
	Includes Delta, Ryobi, Porter Cable, Hitachi, Bosch and Elu
	power tools.  Sorted by manufacturer.  Low prices.  32 pages.

Wood -N- Crafts, Inc.			(800) 444-8075
P.O. Box 140 Dept. pec
Lakeview, Mi  48850
	Good selection of wooden cutouts and miniatures, hardware and paints.

Wood - Better Homes & Gardens		(800) 374-9663 subscription
Meredith Corporation			(800) 572-9350 back issues
1716 Locust St.
Des Moines IA 50336
	Publisher of Wood magazine

Woodcarver's Supply			(800) 284-6229 - Orders
P.O. Box 7500				(813) 698-0123 - Questions
Englewood, Florida  34295		(813) 698-0329 - Fax

Woodcraft				(800) 535-4482
41 Atlantic Avenue			From MA, HA, and AL call (617) 935-6414
PO Box 4000				M-F 9-6 Th 9-9 EST Answering machine
Woburn, MA 01888				 at other times
Store at 313 Montvale Ave Woburn MA
<http://www.woodcraft.com>
	Wide range of tools for craftsman. Nice catalog, good prices, excellent
	delivery.

The Woodcraft Shop			(319) 359-9684
2724 State Street			(319) 359-6456 FAX
Bettendorf, IA 52722			(800) 397-2278
	Caters to woodcarvers, but also carry some general
	woodworking supplies.

Wood Finishing Supply Co. Inc		315-986-4517
1267 Mary Drive
Macedon, NY 14502
	**** APPARENTLY TAKEN OVER BY WOODWORKERS SUPPLY OF NM ****
	All types of finishing supplies. The catalog also provides some
	good information how to use the finishes.

Woodhaven				(800) 344-6657
	They make router accessories (tables, jigs, fences, adjustment
	handles, inlay bushings, etc).  Prices ok (not great), quality is
	high (table inserts are of 3/8" Lexan, for instance).

Woodsmith				(800) 444-7002
P.O. Box 10740
Des Moines, Iowa  50347-0740
	Publisher of Woodsmith magazine

Woodworkers' Discount Books		(800) 378-4060
1649 Turn Point Road			(360) 378-2884
Friday Harbor, WA 98250			woodbooks@pacificrim.net
	Discounts of up to 20% on over 300 woodworking books and videos.
	Free catalog to e-mail requests. 

Woodworkers Hardware			(800) 383-0130
PO Box 784
St. Cloud, MN 56302
	Drawer slides and other cabinet hardware.

Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico	(800) 645-9292 8:30-5 MT M-F
5604 Alameda Place NE			(800) 321-9841
Albuquerque, NM 87113			(505) 821-0500
	Wide range of tools. Delta etc. Power tool emphasis.
	"...fast, reliable service"
	"Small but well rounded selection of hand tools, books etc."

"Woodwork: A Magazine For All Woodworkers"
Circulation Dept.
P.O. Box 1529
Ross, CA 94957
	Another general-interest woodworking magazine, with color and
	slick paper.  Appears to be aimed at people who aspire to being
	good enough to design and construct Fine Woodworking-quality
	projects, but aren't there yet.

Workbench				(816) 531-5730
KC Publishing Inc
4251 Pennsylvania Ave
Kansas City, Missouri 64111
	Publisher of Workbench magazine
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


From gregg@hrc2.harvard.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:53 EST 1997
Article: 192898 of rec.woodworking
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From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: rec.woodworking Steambending wood Frequently asked Questions
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Archive-name: woodworking/wood-bend
Last-modified: 2/28/96

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved.

This FAQ on bending wood is provided courtesy of Gregg Germain. Any
comments would be welcome. Comments should be directed to 
gregg@hrc2.harvard.edu.

 I've been in the business of steambending wood for about 8 years now.
I've built a variety of steamboxes and tried a number of boiler
systems. What you see written here is a combintation of reading and
actual experience. Mostly experience.

 All of my steam bending has been with either Oak or Mahogany. I've
never tried any other wood as I do this work in my
boatbuilding/restoration. So I cannot comment authoritatively on
bending other woods like cedar, pine, poplar etc.

 And if I haven't actually DONE it, I will not comment on it. I will
not state anything here that I have ONLY read out of a book and not
tried.

 With that in mind, let's fire up the boiler....

 To start with there are several rules of thumb which work quite well.

 What you are doing when you are steaming wood for bending, is
softening the hemicelluloses. The celluloses are polymers that
behave the same as thermoplastic resins. [My thanks to John McKenzie
for the last two sentences].
 
And you need BOTH heat and steam for this. I realize that some people in
Asia "fire" bend their wood but invariably, that wood is quite wet -
typically quite green. The Norse boatbuilders used to get their planks out for
shipbuilding and sink them into a salt water bog to keep them limber until the
time came to use them. 

     However, we are not always so lucky as to get green
wood for our bending and you can have great success with kiln dried wood.
It's useful if you have the ability to soak your wood for a few days
so that the moisture content rises - those Vikings knew what they were
doing.

	You need heat and you need moisture.

 The primary rule is the one for steam time:

	One hour of steaming per inch thickness of wood.

 I have found that you can OVERSTEAM as well as understeam. If you
steam an inch of wood for an hour, try to bend it, and it cracks,
DO NOT assume that you haven't steamed it enough. There are several
factors involved which could explain the result - but we'll get to
those later.

 It is smart, however, to have a piece of stock in the steam box that
is the same thickness as the piece you wish to bend, and that is
expendable. PREFERABLY a piece taken from the stock itself. Steam that
with the target piece, and after the requisite steaming time, take the
test piece out and try to bend that to the mold. If it snaps, then
give your piece MAYBE 10 minutes more. But no more.

The wood:

 Generally it is best if you can get green wood. I know that this
makes the cabinetmakers among us shudder. But the plain fact is that
green wood bends easier than dried wood. I can take a 6 foot
long, one inch thick piece of white oak; clamp one end to the bench
and hand bend the piece to the curvature I need - green wood is THAT
limber.  However it won't stay bent, of course, so I steam it anyways.
In boatbuilding, rot is the main evil. 

 For those of us that have to worry about rot, the act of steaming
green wood removes the tendency
of green wood to rot. So no worries there - boat ribs are typically
made from steam bent oak and will not rot in a well cared for boat.

 But i've done a lot of steaming of kiln dried oak and it works fine
too.

  One thing you want to try to avoid in your selection of wood for
bending is grain runout.  This will promote cracking when you bend.

 Steamboxes:

 It is not necessary - and is in fact detrimental to the bending
process - to have a steambox that is absolutely airtight. You WANT
steam to be emanating from the box. If you don't get a flow through of
steam you will not be able to bend the wood - it will crack as if you
steamed it for only 5 minutes.

	I know - i've created a lot of kindling in this manner. 

 Steamboxes can come in many shapes and sizes. You want one big enough
so that you can suspend the wood off the surface, and get a good flow
of steam around most of the wood surface. A box made of 2 x 8 pine
boards will work. One suspension method is to drill a hole through the
sides and run a hardwood dowel through. The dowel holds your wood up
and minimizes the amount of wood touching a surface. You don't want
the box to be SO big, however, such that the amount of steam your rig
generates is too small to fill up the box. You want a wet, steamy box
BILLOWING steam. So the box has to be sized to the boiler (or the
boiler sized to the box ;^) ).

 I have 2 boxes:

 For small stuff like 1 1/2 x 5/8 by 6 foot long oak for ribs, I use a
2 inch diameter piece of PVC. I have it resting on a 2x4 so that it
won't deform under the heat. I've also nailed sides to the 2x4 so that the
tube doesn't flatten.  For a boiler i use a whistling tea kettle
with the whistle and top taken off. A length of radiator hose connects
the kettle to a suitable reduction on the end of the PVC. For a heat
source i use one of those counter top electic burners.

	Works great.

 When I had to steam bend 17 foot long, 7 inch wide, 3/4 inch thick
mahogany for the new cabin trunk of my boat, I used a steambox built
with 2 x 12 inch pine. For a boiler i had a 20 gallon steel boiler.
Heat source was a propane burner I bought at Ace Hardware Store. This
burner is GREAT because it's convenient and mobile. It generates
45,000 BTU of heat. It's an aluminum
bowl on 3 legs with one burner about 8" in diameter.

  Lately, I noticed a 160,000 BTU propane burner in the West Marine
Catalog for $50. I bought it.  Now I'll be able to generate enough
steam to bend ribs for the Constitution.

 Now when I say "one hour of steaming per one inch of wood" I mean one
hour of SERIOUS steam with NO interruptions. Therefore you have to
pick a boiler whose capacity will be sufficient for the steam time you
are looking for. I have used a 5 gallon UNUSED gasoline can for this
purpose.

 NEVER put the wood in the steambox unless you have full steam and the
box is completely filled. Be ABSOLUTELY certain that you don't run out
of water BEFORE the necessary steam time. If you do, and are forced to
add more water give it up...you'll generate kindling. Best to stop the
steaming process and let the wood cool for 24 hours and try again.

 One way of maximizing the water use is to have the box tilted at an
angle so that any condensation within the box runs BACK towards the
boiler.

 Many steam boxes have a door at one end to allow you to slide in
pieces when you want to - and take them out when needed. For example,
in ribbing out a boat - something you'd like to do in a day if you
can, you crank up the boiler and (when steam is up) you put in your
first piece of wood. 15 minutes later you put in the second. Fifteen
minutes later the third and so on. Then, when the first piece is
ready, you yank that out and bend it. This is all supposing that the
process to bend and install the rib takes less than 15 minutes. When
the first rib is in, the second piece of wood is ready..and so on.
This allows you to do a great deal of work while avoiding
oversteaming.

 The door serves another important function. And the door doesn't have
to be solid either - on my small steam box i LOOSELY stuff in a rag. I
say loosely because you want steam to be able to come out of the end
(remember you need steam flowthrough). The secondary purpose is to
preclude cool air from entering the steambox underneath the suspended
wood. 

Bending:

 Assume you have the wood cooking (it makes a nice smell) and the jig
is ready. Take pains to place everything so that the operation of
removing a piece from the box and bending it is a FAST SMOOTH
operation. Time is CRITICAL. 

       You have only seconds.

 When the wood is ready take it QUICKLY out of the box and bend it. 
GET CURVATURE ON THE WOOD!!!!!!!!!!! As fast as humanly possible. If
inserting the wood on the jig is complicated, bend it with your
hands (if possible). 

On ribs for my boat - where there is a curve in 2 directions - I 
take it out of the box, slip one end into a brace and bend that end
then bend the other end with my hands. Try to bend it MORE than the
amount you need in the jig.  But not too much more.  Then
slap the wood on the jig. 

 But I repeat you MUST get curvature on the wood immediately - like
within the first 5 seconds. Every second the wood cools it becomes
less flexible.

 Length of wood and curvature at the ends:

 There is practically NO WAY you can cut a piece to exact length and
expect to get curvature near the ends. You simply don't have the
strength and you will be thwarted by springback.

 By the same token, if all you need is a 3 foot length, and
the wood is greater than, say, 1/4 inch thick, you had better cut the
piece 6 feet long and bend THAT. You can trim the wood to fit later. I
am assuming the lack of some sort of hydraulic press in your shop - i
know i don't have one. Cut the stick overlong remembering that the
shorter the stick the harder it is to bend.

 And if you cut it overlong, you'll have more curvature near the final
finished end - the last 6 inches of a 1 inch thick piece of oak will
be dead straight. Depending upon the curvature you need, you may have
to resort to carving the curvature out of the end of the wood and
should size it with that in mind.

 Jigs:

 When you steam bend apiece of wood, and clamp it to a shape, you wait
24 hours for it to cool thoroughly. When you take it off the jig, that
wood will spring back somewhat. How much depends upon the grain and
the type of wood - it's hard to say. If your stock has a natural curvature 
in the required direction to start with (I try to take advantage of this
whenever possible), you will get less springback.

 So if you have to get a certain curvature to the final product, make
your jig with greater curvature.

 How much?

 Tis is the realm of black magick and I can't personally give you a
figure. One thing I DO know is this:

 	It's infinitely easier to unbend some wood that was overbent,
than it is to put MORE bend in a cool piece of wood (assuming you
don't have incredible leverage). 

 Once caveat: if you are bending pieces that will be glued together to
form a laminate, be sure that the jig is the exact shape you need at
glue time - I rarely get much springback from well bent, glued wood.

There are an infinite variety of jigs you can build. No matter what
type you choose, you can't go wrong if you own a clamp making factory
- you can never have too many clamps. If you are bending wood greater
than 1/2 inch thick you must see to it that the jig is built extremely
strongly: the amount of stress on it is quite high.

 Quite often people will use a metal strap along the outside of the
wood as they bend. This helps to distribute the stesses along the
length of the wood and helps to prevent cracking. This is especially
true if you get grain runout at the outside edges.

 Well that's all i can think of now. If i think of more I'll add it to
the FAQ.
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


From roche@cs.rochester.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:54 EST 1997
Article: 192899 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,news.answers,rec.answers
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From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: rec.woodworking Changes to Frequently Requested Addresses
Message-ID: <woodworking/addresses/diff_859488170@cs.rochester.edu>
Frequency: monthly
Followup-To: poster
Sender: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Supersedes: <woodworking/addresses/diff_856983857@cs.rochester.edu>
Reply-To: roche@cs.rochester.edu
Organization: University of Rochester Computer Science Dept
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:43:07 GMT
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Archive-name: woodworking/addresses/diff

*** /tmp/,RCSt1a17559	Thu Mar 27 13:42:47 1997
--- woodwork-address	Thu Mar 27 13:42:25 1997
***************
*** 7,13 ****
  Frequency: monthly
  
  Archive-name: woodworking/addresses/list
! Last-modified: 12/27/96
  
  Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 
  
--- 7,13 ----
  Frequency: monthly
  
  Archive-name: woodworking/addresses/list
! Last-modified: 3/27/97
  
  Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 
  
***************
*** 188,193 ****
--- 188,194 ----
  Delta International			(800) 438-2486
  4290 E. Raines Road			(800) 223-7278 Parts and Service
  Memphis TN 38118
+ <http://www.deltawoodworking.com/delta>
  	Stationary power tools.
  
  Duane Dahlvang Sales & Dist.		(800) 637-6606
***************
*** 299,305 ****
  Nooks Hill Rd				(860) 635-6473 FAX
  PO Box 95
  Cromwell CT 06416
! <http://www.horton-brasses.com>
  	Hardware for antique furniture. Hepplewhite, Chippendale and Victorian
  	brass hardware. Hand forged iron hardware. 
  
--- 300,306 ----
  Nooks Hill Rd				(860) 635-6473 FAX
  PO Box 95
  Cromwell CT 06416
! <http://www.horton-brasses.com>		email: barb@horton-brasses.com
  	Hardware for antique furniture. Hepplewhite, Chippendale and Victorian
  	brass hardware. Hand forged iron hardware. 
  
***************
*** 353,358 ****
--- 354,360 ----
  JET Woodworking Machinery and Supplies		(800) 274-6848
  POB 1477					(206) 572-5000
  Tacoma, WA 98401
+ <http://www.jettools.com/>
  	Similar to Grizzly. Warehouses throughout the country.
  
  J. Philip Humfrey			(800) 387-9789
***************
*** 439,451 ****
  Lexington, KY  40508
  	Woodworking books and videos. 
  
- Mason & Sullivan			(508) 778-0475 M-F 8-5
- 586 Higgins Crowell Road 		(508) 778-0477 (after hours)
- West Yarmouth,				Customer service:(508) 778-1056
- Cape Cod, MA 02673
- 	Clock-building related items. Kits, tools, the works.
- 	Acquired by Woodcraft - See Woodcraft entry.
- 
  McFeeley's Square Drive Screws		(800) 443-7937
  712 12th Street				(804) 847-7136 - FAX
  P.O. Box 3
--- 441,446 ----
***************
*** 620,625 ****
--- 615,621 ----
  Shopsmith				(800) 543-7586 - Sales
  6530 Poe Ave				(800) 762-7555 - Customer Service
  Dayton, OH  45424			(513) 898-6070
+ <http://members.aol.com/shpsmith/index.html>
  
  Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers Supply	(800) 541-5994 - orders
  PO Box 82				(423) 448-6350 - Customer Service
***************
*** 722,733 ****
  Dept 458411 510 East Main St
  Louisville KY 40202
  	[No other information]
- 
- Tool Traditions                         (800) 453-6736
- Stanley Mail Media, Inc.                (800) 366-9662 (fax)
- 7815 S. 46th Street
- Phoenix, AZ 85044
- 	This appears to be a mail order outlet for Stanley tool products.
  
  Trendlines				Orders: (800) 767-9999
  375 Beacham Street			      (800) 343-3248  Answering machine
--- 718,723 ----
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


From roche@cs.rochester.edu Wed Apr  2 11:58:55 EST 1997
Article: 192900 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,news.answers,rec.answers
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From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Tool Reviews
Message-ID: <woodworking/tool-reviews_859488170@cs.rochester.edu>
Frequency: monthly
Followup-To: poster
Sender: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192900 news.answers:96434 rec.answers:29042

Archive-name: woodworking/tool-reviews
Last-modified: 03/27/97

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

Readers of this group often request reviews of particular tools. This article
is meant to be a pointer to tool reviews/comparisons. It is not a complete
list of sources for tool reviews. If anyone has any additions please send
me a note and I will try to add it in.


Air Compressors
	Portable Air Compressors - Fine Homebuilding October 1988
	Compressed Air Systems - Fine Woodworking June 1990
	Bring in the Air Force - Wood April 1994
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994
	Air Compressors - American Woodworker November 1995

Air Filtration Systems
	Air Filtration Systems - Wood November 1995

Air Tools
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Air Tools - Workbench October 1988
	Selecting a Spray Gun - Fine Woodworking June 1990
	HVLP sprayers - American Woodworker October 1992
	High Volume Low Pressure Sprayers - Wood April 1993
	Woodworkings Sure Shots (nailers) - Wood December 1993
	Tool Talk: Finish Nailers - Popular Woodworking May 1994

Bandsaws
	Shopping for Bandsaw Blades - Wood December 1989
	Bandsaws - Wood October 1990
	Bandsaw Roundup - Wood April 1992
	Band Saws - Popular Woodworking September 1992
	Buyers Guide to Bandsaws - American Woodworker June 1994
	Bandsaws - American Woodworker November 1994
	Bandsaws Tool Buyers Update - Wood  December 1994
	Bandsaws ($400-$800) - ShopNotes November 1995

Belt Sanders
	Portable Belt Sanders - Wood October 1990
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Benchtop Belt/Disc Sanders - Workbench September 1991
	Portable Belt Sanders - ShopNotes September 1996
	Choosing a Belt Sander - Fine Woodworking December 1996

Biscuit Joiners
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Plate Joiners - Workbench April 1988
	Plate Joiners - Fine Woodworking June 1989
	Buying a Biscuit Joiner - Wood December 1992
	Biscuit Joiners - American Woodworker October 1993
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994
	Biscuit Joiners - American Woodworker November 1994
	Picking a Plate Joiner - Fine Woodworking February 1995
	Survey of Biscuit Joiners - Fine Homebuilding March 1995
	Biscuit Joiners - American Woodworker November 1995

Carvers
	Power Carvers - Fine Woodworking April 1991

Circular Saws
	Portable Circular Saws - Wood October 1990
	Portable Circular Saws (AKA sidewinders) - Fine Homebuilding November 1990
	Circular Saws - Consumer Reports November 1992
	Circular Saws - American Woodworker November 1994
	Circular Saws (low end) - ShopNotes January 1995

Clamps
	The Smart Shoppers Guide to Clamps - Wood February 1991
	Quick Clamps - ShopNotes May 1996

Cordless Screwdrivers
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Cordless Screwdrivers - Workbench April 1990
	Cordless drill/drivers - Wood October 1990

Cordless Drills
	Cordless drill/drivers - Wood October 1990
	Cordless Wonders - Wood April 1991
	Powerful Cordless Drill/Drivers - Fine Woodworking November 1993
	Cordless Drills - American Woodworker October 1993
	Cordless Drills - American Woodworker November 1994
	Cordless Drills - American Woodworker November 1995
	12V Cordless Drills - ShopNotes March 1996
	Cordless Drills - Wood August 1996

Cut-Off Saws
	Portable Electric Cut-Off Saws - Fine Homebuilding September 1990

Detail Sanders
	Tool Review: Detail Sanders - Wood November 1994

Dovetail Jigs
	Dovetail Jigs - American Woodworker April 1996

Drill Bits
	Buying Forstner Bits - Wood February 1991

Drills
	The Great Electric Drill Shootout - Wood August 1990
	Survey of 3/8" VSR Drills - Fine Homebuilding June 1993
	Powerful Cordless Drill/Drivers - Fine Woodworking December 1993
	Buyers Guide to Cordless Drills - American Woodworker December 1993
	Tests of 47 Corded and Cordless Drills - Consumer Reports January 1994

Drill Presses
	Drill Presses - Wood October 1990
	Drill Presses - American Woodworker November 1994
	Drill Presses - American Woodworker November 1995

Dust Collectors
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Dust Collection Systems - Workbench February 1989
	Meet the Dust Guzzlers - Wood September 1992
	Lowering the Boom on Dust - Wood April 1997

Fences
	Aftermarket Fences - American Woodworker October 1992
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994

Finishing Sanders
	Finishing Sanders - Wood April 1993
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994

Grinders
	Grinders - American Woodworker February 1993
	Wet-wheel Grinders - Wood February 1995
	Grinders - American Woodworker November 1995

Heat Guns
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Heat Guns - Workbench February 1991

Jointers
	Machines the Give You the Edge Quickly and Accurately - Wood October 1989
	Two New Jointers - Fine Woodworking February 1990
	Jointers - Wood October 1990
	Comparing Jointer-Planers - Fine Woodworking November 1994
	Jointers - American Woodworker November 1994
	Jointers under $1000 - Wood December 1995

Lathes
	Lathes - Wood October 1990
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Lathes - Workbench May 1991
	Quality Lathes for Under $600 - Wood October 1993
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994
	Lathes - American Woodworker November 1994
	Mini-Lathes - American Woodworker June 1996

Miter Saws
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Power Miter Saws - Workbench June 1988
	Getting an Angle on Compound Miters - Fine Homebuilding January 1990
	Power Mitersaws - Wood February 1992
	Workbench Guide to Random Orbit Disc Sanders - Workbench May 1992
	Tool Review Sliding Compound Miter Saws - Woodworkers Journal January 1993
	Buyers Guide to Sliding Compound Miter Saws - American Woodworker April 1993
	Sliding Compound Miter Saws - Fine Woodworking May 1993
	Shopping for Chopsaw Stand - Fine Homebuilding January 1996
	Sliding Compound Mitersaws - Wood April 1996
	Compound Miter Saws - January 1997

Moisture Meters
	Taking the Measure of Moisture Meters - Fine Woodworking April 1994

Radial Arm Saws
	Radial-arm Saws - Wood October 1990
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994
	Radial Arm Saws - American Woodworker November 1994

Random Orbital Sanders
	Tool Talk: Random Orbital Sanders - Popular Woodworking September 1991
	Random-Orbit Sanders - Fine Woodworking February 1992
	Random-Orbit Sanders - Wood February 1993
	Finishing Sanders - Wood April 1993
	Random Orbit Sanders - Fine Woodworking August 1993
	Random Orbit Palm Sanders - Woodworkers Journal Nov/Dec 1993
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - Wood October 1994
	Palm Grip Random Orbit Sanders - ShopNotes September 1995
	Random Orbit Sanders - American Woodworker November 1995
	Random Orbit Sanders - Wood Sepetember 1996

Reciprocating Saws
	Reciprocating Saw Survey - Fine Homebuilding April/May 1994

Routers
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Routers - Workbench April 1989
	Routers, Routers Everywhere - Wood February 1990
	Plunge Routers - Wood October 1990
	Tool Review Plunge Routers - Woodworkers Journal January 1992
	Plunge Routers - Fine Homebuilding January 1992
	Big Plunge Routers - Fine Woodworking December 1992
	Plunge Routers - Fine Homebuilding January 1992
	Buyers Guide to Plunge Routers - American Woodworker July/August 1993
	Laminate Trimmer Survey - Fine Homebuilding May 1995
	Best of the Bunch Routers for Table Mounting - Wood September 1995
	Routers - American Woodworker November 1995
	Plunge Routers 3hp+ - ShopNotes November 1996

Router Bits
	Router Bits - American Woodworker August 1993
	Router Bits Tackle Cope and Stick - Fine Woodworking August 1994
	Carbide Router Bits - Wood December 1994
	Router Bit Review Rail and Stile Bits - Wood August 1996

Sabersaws
	What's New with Sabersaws - Fine Woodworking December 1990
	Survey of Jigsaws - Fine Homebuilding July 1994
	Jazzed up About Jigsaws - Wood August 1994
	Sabersaws - Consumer Reports September 1995

Sawblades
	Dado cutting tools - Wood October 1991
	10 inch Carbide Tipped Sawblades - Wood September 1993
	Circular Blades Tool Buyers Update - Wood December 1994
	Combination Table Saw Blades - ShopNotes January 1996

Sawmills
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Portable Sawmills - Workbench August 1989

Screw Guns
	A Survey of Self-Feed Screw Guns - Fine Homebuilding December 1993

Scrollsaws
	Scrollsaw Blades - Wood April 1990
	Scrollsaws - Wood October 1990
	Scrollsaws over $500 - Wood September 1991
	The Wide World of Scrollsaws - Wood October 1996

Shapers
	Shapers - Wood December 1990
	Shapers - American Woodworker November 1995
	7 Reasons to Buy a Home-Shop Shaper - Wood February 1996

Shopsmith
	Shopsmith vs. Total Shop - Wood June 1990

Spindle Sanders
	Oscillating Spindle Sanders Under $700 - Wood September 1994

Tablesaws
	How to Buy the Most Important Woodworking Machine in your Shop - Wood December 1989
	Tablesaw Safety Devices - Fine Woodworking April 1990
	Tablesaws - Wood October 1990
	Tool Talk - Popular Woodworking July 1991
	Double Duty Tablesasw With Special Cross Cutting Features - Fine Woodworking April 1992
	Tablesaws under $700 - Wood Feb 1994
	Tablesaws - American Woodworker November 1995
	Tablesaw Showdown - American Woodworker December 1995

Thickness Planers
	Portable Power Planes - Fine Homebuilding June 1989
	The WORKBENCH Guide to Planers - Workbench February 1990
	Thickness Planers under $500 - Wood April 1990
	Portable Planer Survey - Fine Woodworking October 1990
	Thickness Planers - Wood October 1990
	Portable Planers - Wood April 1992
	Portable Thickness Planers - American Woodworker April 1992
	Multipurpose Planer/Molders - Wood August 1993
	Power Planer Survey - Fine Homebuilding November 1994
	Thickness Planers - American Woodworker November 1995
	Portable Thickness Planers - ShopNotes July 1996
	Benchtop Planers - American Woodworker December 1996

Vacuums
	Tool Buyers Treasure Hunt - October 1994
	Shop Vacuums - American Woodworker June 1995
	Tool Roundup 6 Shop Vacuums - Workbench November 1995

Vises
	Woodworking Vises - Wood September 1990

Mail Order
	Mail Order Tools - Fine Homebuilding September 1990


Where to get back issues of magazines mentioned:

American Woodworker
PO Box 7591
Red Oak, IA 51591
(800) 666-3111

Fine Woodworking - Fine Homebuilding
The Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
PO Box 5506
Newtown CT 06470-5506

Wood - Better Homes & Gardens
Meredith Corporation
1716 Locust St.
DesMoines IA 50336
(800) 374-9663 subscription
(800) 572-9350 back issues

Workbench
KC Publishing Inc
4251 Pennsylvania Ave
Kansas City, Missouri 64111
(816) 531-5730

Popular Woodworking
Box 58279
Boulder, CO 80322

Woodworker's Journal
PO Box 1629
New Milford CT 06776
(203) 355-2694
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


From glyford@us1*channel1.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:56 EST 1997
Article: 192901 of rec.woodworking
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From: glyford@us1*channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Multi-disc any good??
Date: 27 Mar 1997 14:11:07 GMT
Organization: Channel 1 Communications
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <5hdv5r$ch2$1@news1.channel1.com>
References: <33394C9C.7F76@soc.utexas.edu> <geoffben-2603971917120001@ip015.phx.primenet.com>
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In article <geoffben-2603971917120001@ip015.phx.primenet.com>, 
geoffben@primenet.com says...
>
>In article <33394C9C.7F76@soc.utexas.edu>, jvd5637@soc.utexas.edu wrote:
>
>> I'm not a serious craftsman or carpenter, but I was wondering if 
someone
>> could tell me if those Multi-disc things (as seen on TV) are any good.

>Yes, they work, and work well. They are fairly soft and can be damaged. 
In
>my opinion, they're worthwhile. I have an entire shop full of tools,
>including a variety of cutoff tools, and I keep a couple sets of them
>here.

In the latest Northern catalog, p.82, I saw 
  2 "multi-disks" + arbor for $12.99
  2 "roto-7" discs + sanding disk & adapters, 18.99

or try http://www.northern-online.com

Never tried either of 'em, but if you're gonna, might as well save
a buck or two going it...
                                                       --Glenn
-- 
Spamjamming is [ON], to e-mail me, please replace * with . in address.  



From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 11:58:57 EST 1997
Article: 192902 of rec.woodworking
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From: BigJim <bigjim@ALASKA.NET>
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
Lines: 27
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192902

A "rule of thumb" used in industrial applications is that the sum of the
nameplate amperages shoukd not exceed 80% of the breaker capacity.
Therefore, a 20amp breaker should not be loaded past 16 amps.  It is *not*
coincidence that most homes have 20amp breakers and there are many tools
which draw around 15 amps, yet relatively few drawing in the 16-19 range.
At that point they usually make a jump to the mid-twenties (getting near
the 80% rating on a 30amp breaker). :):)

I hope this helps.

Jim aka BigJim

At 11:10 AM 3/25/97 -0700, you wrote:
>My Delta runs fine on a 20 amp 115 volt circuit.  The motor says it is 14
>amps, 1.5 HP.
>
>ROBMURR <robmurr@aol.com> wrote in article
><19970325173100.MAA24637@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
>> I want to purchase a Jet or Delta contractor saw. I need to know
>> if either of these will run OK on a 20 amp curcuit. Nothing else is
>> on this curcuit in the garage and I would like to use it or should I
>> increase it to 30 amps?This would be on 115volts. My 100amp
>> breaker box is full already...what is my least expensive and least
>> extensive solution? thanks!
>>
>>
>
>


From rwaits@rmisp.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:58 EST 1997
Article: 192903 of rec.woodworking
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From: "R.C. Waits" <rwaits@rmisp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hand made wood gifts!
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:23:45 GMT
Organization: None
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192903

 Need a unique gift idea? Then go to the Woodsong Art Studio. We've got
Stick pens, Keyrings, Wood spirits, Rustic Log Jewelry boxes, Stone
spirits, and hand carved wood bear sculptures, even polymer clay jewelry.
by Wyoming artists Robert & Cayenne Waits. Visit us at 
http://www.rmisp.com/woodsong



From bobmethelis@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:58:59 EST 1997
Article: 192904 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: bobmethelis@mindspring.com (Robert J. Methelis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dremel scroll saws
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:28:10 GMT
Organization: Mindspring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <333ac7e5.7001893@news.mindspring.com>
References: <19970321215801.QAA00324@ladder01.news.aol.com> <5hcspr$50s$1@news3.texas.net>
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>ilicku4fun@aol.com (Ilicku4fun) wrote:
>
>>any body here got experience using dremels scroll saws?  i am looking for
>>one and think i would like to hear about them first.

I have had  three inexpensive scroll saws - the Ryobi variable, the
Delta 2 speed and the Dremel.  I kept the Dremel since it fit MY needs
better - substituting (barely)  for a bandsaw and few internal cuts -
no fretwork.  Yours may be different.

RYOBI - smoothest cut, good pinless blade change mechanism, variable
speed a plus.  Problem was that the lock mechanism on the table would
not maintain 90 degree with a long (3' board) no matter how hard it
was tightened.  As I got closer to the end of the board the table
would start to slip.

DELTA - good cut, best pinless blade change mechanism, table was not
very smooth but was "sound", vibrated much more than other two.

DREMEL - good cut, bothersome pinless blade change even with buying
the optional adapter, smooth and solid table. 
Bob Methelis
Bob-in-NJ on IRC

He would be wood if he could,
but he's knot.


From boheggus@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:00 EST 1997
Article: 192905 of rec.woodworking
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From: boheggus@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How about a B&D mitre saw?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:22:05 GMT
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ranc@joesbar.cc.vt.edu () spoke thusly:

>Hello folks,
>   The local Lowe's has a Black & Decker model 1710 Mitre Saw on sale
>for $135.  Seems like a pretty nice saw for the money.  It looks better
>than the Makita for $139.  Anyone have experiences.opinions on the B&D
>mdoel 1710?

I'm generally not a big B&D fan but I like my 1710. I looked closely
at several other similar 10" non-compound saws in the same range
before I settled on this one. I think its a better saw for less money
than the comparable Delta or Makita. Worth every penny, IMO. The stock
blade is crap though.

FWIW,

Josh

-Insert clever and witty sig line here.



From hamilton@frii.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:00 EST 1997
Article: 192906 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Hamilton <hamilton@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Duck Decoys
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slpslidr wrote:
> 
> My Dad is retired and is somewhat limited in what he can do. He enjoys
> carving duck decoys, with a Foredham flex shaft tool. Are there any
> newsgroups better suited to this. At least carving and flex shaft type
> subjects. I used to do a little stone carving, lapidairy  type stuff.
> Thanks
> walt
Walt,

The rec.crafts.carving newsgroup has had some discussions concerning
decoy carving (although there haven't been many posts there lately).  I
do some decoy carving (both power carving using a Foredom and sometimes
making chips with a draw knife and shavehorse).  Hope this helps.

Dave Hamilton


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:01 EST 1997
Article: 192907 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: TS with 30" fence and Mobile base, legs fit?  (JTAS/XACTA/HTC)
Message-ID: <333ACA61.36ED@qgraph.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:28:33 -0600
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I have a Jet JTAS with a 30" Xacta.  I opted for a 30" base vs. the base
that just holds the saw.  These bases are rectangular in design and the
legs of the extension table are supposed to come down into the base.

Well the legs on my table do not even come close to lineing up with
support area of the base.  The legs have welded brackets that
automatically line them up, so I can't move them easily.

HTC had me fax them some measurements and are talking to engineering.
Jet told me I mounted the table right and most people don't use this
method (they go either the saw base of to the 50" fence/base) and they
had not heard of it.

I can obviously modify things to fit (but don't feel I shold have to)
and I am wondering what experiences others might have had with the
30" mobile base from HTC.  This is the same base used for the Unisaw.

Please Email me as I will not have News access again until Monday.
Thanks
Damian Drewek
ddrewek@qgraph.com



From jd@ftp.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:02 EST 1997
Article: 192908 of rec.woodworking
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From: jd@ftp.com (James DuPrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:37:12 GMT
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I disagree...
	My "good" bench has the standard wax/turp/linseed finish. It isn't
any more slippery than my other benches (the polyurethane is *more* slick).
I don't have a Tung oil bench.
	The trick of using the drips ot keep the finish "fresh" works for wax 
too.... I also have gone for about 8 months without "refreshing" the wax finish -
it hasn't deteriorated all that much - possible because this finish gets pretty
good penetration. Most of the scrathes in the surface that actually expose
naked (un waxed) wood are at least 1/32 deep - anything less and the wood 
has been penetrated by the finish.....
		JD


 >I note a number of people have mentioned using wax, of finishes containing
 >wax. The slick finish wax gives while it lasts, which isn't long in a
 >shop environment, is exactly opposite to the purpose of workbench.



From surgcw@showme.missouri.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:03 EST 1997
Article: 192909 of rec.woodworking
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From: surgcw@showme.missouri.edu (CW)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dewalt CMS
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:27:18 -0600
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The Lowe's store in Columbia Missouri sells it for $270.  About 6 months
ago it was $345.  Go figure.  Your local store should be able to get close
to this price.  Great saw.  Good Luck.  Argue with the manager and you will
probably get results.  Why punish you by charging more (or as much as the
market will handle)?
CW


In article <Pine.HPP.3.95.970327072123.28199B-100000@river.it.gvsu.edu>,
"Daniel A. Strockis" <strockid@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote:

>      I am interested in purchaxing the Dewalt CMS and I was wondering if
> $348 is a high price for this saw...no accessories.  this is the price at
> the Home Depot.  Does this sound like a good buy or can i find it cheaper
> somewhere else?
> 
> 
>                                    Thanks
> 
>                                             Dan


From woodclub1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:04 EST 1997
Article: 192910 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodclub1@aol.com (WOODCLUB1)
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Subject: Re: Band saw repair?
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The phone number for Jet is (206) 572-5000


From dundonal@global.co.za Wed Apr  2 11:59:05 EST 1997
Article: 192911 of rec.woodworking
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From: "AD" <dundonal@global.co.za>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:22:11 GMT
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Fortunately your wife's pot didn't turn the wood black which would have
indicated burning (carbon) about which little can be done without radical
"surgery" i.e.sanding right through the mark - sometimes quite deeply.

In your case, the mark is probably caused by a molecular change in the
sealer, which has gone from clear to white. Hopefully, you will be able to
get rid of this by using a VERY fine abrasive paper (180grit or finer) to
erase the surface mark, and then re-finish the spot. "Feather" the sealer
in to the old surface well, and you won't see the mark.

Better still, re-surface the whole table while you're about it and apply a
"bleached-mark resistant" POLYURETHANE sealer, and you won't even have to
worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.

Hop this helps.

Andrew Dunn

BEN SIMPSON <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default>...
> My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
> looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to fix
> the problem?
> respond to:  osagechief@worldnet.att.net
> 


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:06 EST 1997
Article: 192912 of rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Jointers...Delta or Jet or someone else
Message-ID: <333ACFB3.50D0@qgraph.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:52:07 -0600
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boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> I'm looking to purchase a jointer in the near future and I have no
> idea which brand to go with. A maintanence man at work said that
> Jet machines don't last very long. Is this true? Do all jointers have
> to have there tables shimmed eventually? If anyone can steer me
> in the right direction I would appreciate it . Thanks
> 
>  boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com

I'd be interested in having him clarify this and I can't see why
anything would need to be shimmed eventually?  I don't think they wear
out the gibs do they?  I have a Powermatic 54 which is very similar to
todays Jet.  (the Jet has some newer better features than the PM does).
I really like the PM and technically speaking they are the same design.

Damian



From jd@ftp.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:07 EST 1997
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From: jd@ftp.com (James DuPrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:48:06 GMT
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the expense is the big reason. there is the expense of materials
(solid wood costs a lot more than ply or compsites), and the cost
of labour. Its a lot cheaper to cut a 8'4' panel to size than it is
to edgejoint, glue and trim a bunch of planks.
	Personally, all I ever use ply or composites for is to
put under my bench (concrete floor, and the "wood" is better for
standing on). On the other hand, I do 'way top end custom work.
Most of the work I do is 100% hand work (including stock dimensioning).
This pretty much eliminates the cost factor - folks that can't afford to pay 
the stock and labour costs can't afford my work anyway.......
			JD

In article <01bc3a4e$51871a80$5b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, 
bcompton@news.megalink.net says...
 >
 >It seems particle board (various types) and plywood is the predominate
 >building material for cabinet boxes. Does anyone use hardwood for the
 >boxes. 
 >
 >Other than expense why use plywood or particle board if you can use the
 >real stuff?
 >
 >I'm an amateur woodworker and would appreciate all comments.
 >
 >Bill Compton
 >bcompton@megalink.net
 >
 >
 >



From winstead@eecs.tulane.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:08 EST 1997
Article: 192914 of rec.woodworking
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From: winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Adirondack Chairs (Was Re: Let us try this)
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> Ob.rec.ww:  I just finished sanding the parts for an Adirondack
>             chair with my new Grizzly 6" belt/9" disk stationary
>             sander.  It was an early birthday present from my wife.
>             Why didn't I get this years ago?  It's great!

Where did you get your plans for the chairs?  Or did you design them 
yourself?

Ted
-- 
Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 






From roche@cs.rochester.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:09 EST 1997
Article: 192915 of rec.woodworking
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From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: rec.woodworking Antique Tool FAQ
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Archive-name: woodworking/antique_tool
Last-modified: 5/3/96


This FAQ was provided by Vince Miller. Comments should be directed to
<vincent.j.miller.4@nd.edu>.

Antique Tools FAQ
-----------------

0. Purpose of this FAQ
1. Advantages of Older Tools
2. Is this a collectable or a user's tool?
3. What is this worth?
4. Restoration concerns
5. Who is "Bailey" ?
6. What are the corrugations for?
7. Quality makers (emphasis on iron planes)
8. Makers to avoid
9. What to watch for when buying planes
10. Basic plane types
11. Universal Planes (i.e. 55's) vs. Wooden Moulding Planes
12. Saws (nibs and nuts)
13. Infill ("Norris") style planes
14. Internet Resources


0. Purpose of this FAQ
======================

This FAQ is designed to address the most frequently asked
questions about antique tools on Rec.ww.  It also includes some
questions that in the opinion of the author should be asked more
frequently ;-).  It is designed to complement Ken Smith's
excellent Handtool.FAQ which has appeared in Rec.ww for some
time.  Some important questions concerning the use of old tools
have already been addressed there: i.e., basic tuning of a hand
plane, saw sharpening, etc.  Ken also provides an extensive
bibliography and guide to tool collecting organizations.  I
learned most of this stuff here in Rec.ww, so kudos to all the
folks who posted this stuff originally.

This Faq emphasizes iron planes, since the bulk of traffic
concerns them. 


1. Advantages of Older Tools
============================
Old tools were made in an era when there were many craftsmen and
tradesmen that relied on their tools to earn their living, thus
they had to be durable, effective, and ergonomic.  These would
often be used for hours on end, so the handles had to be
comfortable.  Older tools are often made of superior materials. 
The castings are heavier and more carefully machined, the tote,
knobs and handles are often of brazilian rosewood, the blades are
of quality steel and properly tempered.  In addition, the blades
are often of laminated construction.  A thin piece of (then quite
pricey) steel was laminated to a softer iron back.  This had the
(perhaps unintentional) effect of enabling the steel to be left
harder, since the soft iron would absorb some shock.  This same
method of construction is still used in the best Japanese tools
today.  Some observe that all tools made in yesteryear were not
superb.  The quality  of what remains is a result of the survival
of the fittest and there is alas no shortage of poorer quality
oldtools to be found as well.  

The standard reference for USING old woodworking hand tools is
Michael Dunbar's _Restoring, Tuning and Using Classic Woodworking
Tools_ (ISBN 0-8069-6670-X).

2.  Is this a priceless collectible or a user's tool?
=====================================================
Collectible tools are collectible because they are rare, so
chances are most tools you will find are not going to pay off
your mortgage.  However, there are plenty of rare things out
there.  For an overview of what Stanley tools are collectible see
Patrick Leach's "Stanley Blood and Gore" archived at the
"Electronic Neanderthal" web page (see #14 below for address).
In that very useful guide to all Stanley planes ever made, he
places an asterisk beside those that are better left to
collectors.

There are numerous guides to the prices of antique tools. 
Although these are not precise guides to value, they do make
clear the difference between a #45 and a #44 Miller's Patent
Plow.  Which may very well pay off your mortgage.  Check any of
the published price guides for this sort of information, but take
them with a pound or two of salt.

Most of the collectible Stanley planes are precisely the ones
that are least useful to the user.  They are rare because the
workers of yesteryear didn't find them practical.  An exception
to this rule are the earliest types of each tool which are often
worth quite a bit.  Dating planes is a complex undertaking, but
the simplest trait is the lack of a lateral adjustment lever on
the standard bench planes.  (Do not confuse this with a broken
and lost lateral adjustment lever as some (no doubt well
intentioned ;-) antique dealers have.)  There is a guide to
dating Stanley planes by the same Mr. Leach archived at the
Electronic Neanderthal as well.

Even though a tool is not particularly valuable monetarily, it is
still an important legacy of history and should be treated with
respect.  


3. What is this worth?
======================
A question easier to ask than answer.  This varies greatly
depending on condition of the tool, and the geographic location.
As a ROUGH guideline figure about 60-100% of current retail if
it's a plane Stanley still produces and its in good shape.  

It also depends who you are.  For example, a #7 jointer plane
sells retail new, for anywhere from $65 to over $110 dollars. 
Tool dealers ask from $75 to $100 for them.  If you live in the
right area, you can often find them at flea markets, antique
malls and yard sales for below $30.

In general, if you are new to the purchase of old tools, avoid
buying things that cost much more than $XX (insert however much
you're willing to blow on worthless junk) without acquainting
yourself with the going price.  Do this by talking to tool
dealers (see the handtool faq for a list of folks on the net) or
consulting price guides.  Local dealers of tools in antique malls
often way overprice their tools.  But then again, they
occasionally underprice out of ignorance.


4. Restoration Concerns
=======================
Much of what I'm about to say may sound extreme.  To some extent
it is.  However, until one knows enough about old tools to
distinguish the dross from the fine stuff, it's best to err on
the conservative side.

Even though most old tools are not extremely valuable from a
financial standpoint, they are part of a finite and dwindling
pool of antique artifacts.  As such they should be treated with
care and respect.  Even something as innocuous as the grunge
coating a tool (called patina by devotees) can reveal forgotten
facts about the trades (e.g., what one did with the second hand
when using a ripsaw).  Even if the tool holds no secret such as
this, realize that patina is made of the sweat and shop materials
of its previous owner.  These tools have often provided incomes
for 2 or more generations of artisans and their families, perhaps
before your grandparents were even born.  Meditate on this a
while before breaking out the Comet.  

The patina itself gives a lot of the value to the tool.  This is
especially the case with wooden tools.  Avoid stripping at all
costs.  Simple cleaning is usually ok.  Mineral spirits, rags and
toothbrushes will accomplish a lot.  If you're certain a tool is
nothing special, mild abrasives such as automobile rubbing
compound can be used.  Avoid wire brushes, especially wire
wheels!  They remove material quickly, obscure detail, and leave
a matte finish that initiates can spot a mile away.  I have a
very nice Mathieson infill smoother whose mouth was damaged by an
idiot with a wire wheel.  It is functional and a wonderful plane,
but it will never be what it was and they don't make em' anymore.

Mild rust can be rubbed off with a cloth and mineral spirits.  If
it is heavy, abrasives can be used.  Chemical methods tend to
leave an unattractive surface so avoid Naval Jelly and Coke(tm)
(same active ingredient!).  I have tried soaking a saw in
vinegar; this dissolved the rust, but also pitted the steel (I
know because it etched the weave of the wicking cloth I was using
into the blade).  Electrolysis is used in serious conservation
circles to remove corrosion.  A discussion on this is archived at
the Electronic Neanderthal.

It's best to try to maintain the original finish on the wooden
portions of old tools.  This of course can have its fanatical
extremes, but it's worth striving for.  In general they were
either left unfinished (most wooden planes) or shellacked. 
French polishing is the best way to renew the latter. The
simplest and least destructive of refinishing methods is to apply
a decent coat of paste wax.  The gravest sin is polyurethane.  It
can make the rarest of planes pariahs.  The ultimate rule is
avoid irreversible changes.

Functional modifications should be avoided unless you really know
what you are doing.  All of this may seem extreme, but until you
familiarize yourself with what is valuable and what is junk,
there is a chance you will be ruining a wonderful tool.  Anyone
who has searched for old tools for very long has many stories of
wonderful tools "fixed" by people who simply didn't know how to
use them properly.  I recently saw a wonderful 2" wide complex
moulding plane with its mouth whacked open. I guess the original
tight mouth did not allow the 1" thick shavings the user was
producing to clear the throat. ;-(

That said, there are times when an otherwise useless old junker
can be transformed into a useful working tool by means of radical
surgery--such as turning a handyman class smoother into a scrub,
or an old wooden rabbet into a sliding dovetail plane.

Most accounts of tuning old planes usually emphasize the
importance of flattening the sole.  This is a somewhat
controversial issue in old tooldom.  While a seriously non-
planar sole is a problem, most are quite functional.  Wooden
planes (with which so much of the greatest furniture was made)
are never terribly flat.  I think it's a genre issue.  If you are
writing an article or book on restoring and tuning tools, you
will want to include everything.  Article after article notes
sole lapping and it becomes dogma.  But not all planes need this
treatment.  Nevertheless there are times when a sole is so out of
whack that it has to be flattened, and there's no harm in that. 
Note, however, that lapping the sole can enlarge the mouth
harming its performance.  It will also lesson the plane's appeal
to collectors.  So don't go lappin any #164's.


5. Who is "Bailey"?  The Bailey Patent Design
=============================================
The standard pattern of bench plane that we all take for granted
was invented by a man named Leonard Bailey.  Bailey invented
three major parts of this design: the moveable frog (the wedge
shaped iron support on which the plane blade rests), the lever
cap iron securing system, and the depth adjustment wheel and yoke
system.  Later the improvement of the lateral adjustment lever
was added.  The Stanley company saw the potential success of
Bailey's design and bought the patents from him.  To honor the
dude of whom they quickly tired (there were several patent
lawsuits between them), they cast and engraved his name all over
their planes for some years.  This is why many of the Stanley
planes have "Bailey" cast into them.  The earliest ones also have
it engraved in the chip breaker and adjustment wheel as well.


6. What are the corrugations for?
=================================
Some say that they are intended to reduce the surface area of the
sole and thus friction, but this seems unlikely since friction is
a function of force, not surface area.  

The most common answer is that they are intended to somehow break
the suction that forms between two flat planes.  This suction
increases force and thus friction.  

Others have said that the corrugations are merely a gimmick. 
Their only real value comes into play when one is flattening the
sole.  Then the amount of iron to be removed is reduced--similar
to the scalloped backs of Japanese chisels.


7. Quality makers (emphasis on iron planes)
===========================================
After the initial patents expired, Stanley made all kinds of
improvements to keep their market share.  This resulted in the
many different "types" of the standard planes that were produced
throughout this century.  When the patents expired, many
competitors began to produce lines of Bailey style bench planes. 
Among the quality producers of these knock offs are: Sargent,
Millers Falls, Winchester, Keen Kutter, Fulton and Craftsman and
Record.  (Technically some of these are just labels, not
producers, but you get the idea.)  Sometimes, these are made with
higher quality than the original Stanleys.  These are often
unattractive to collectors, so they can provide very good values
to the user.


8. Makers to avoid
==================
Some of the clones are junk.  Stanley itself made several lines
of lesser-quality tools for weekend putzers who didn't need the
quality the trades demanded.  Among these are their Handyman and
Defiance lines of tools.  Sears also had a lower quality line
called Dunlap.  These can be serviceable tools, but if you buy
one make sure you get a significant discount off of the price of
a top of the line brand.  In antique stores these tools are often
prices the same as the best tools.  These handiman class tools
will seldom do for precise applications like smoothing.

Traits of these lessor tools include the following.  The stirrup
shaped yoke that straddles the depth adjustment wheel is often
made of stamped and bent sheet steel, instead of the sturdier
cast iron.  The lateral adjustment lever is sheet metal twisted
into two planes, without a wheel on the end where it engages the
slot in the blade.  The frog is often not supported well.  The
mating surfaces are not accurately machined.  These tools seldom
have the frog adjustment screw which allows you to precisely
adjust the mouth.  Poorly rounded totes are also often a sign of
lessor quality.  The earliest Stanleys totes are completely
radiused, whereas the latter ones merely have their corners
rounded over.  The best planes were made with knobs and totes of
rosewood or cocobolo.  Lesser ones used beech or other domestic
hardwoods.  However, some of the top of the line planes, like the
Stanley scrub planes always had beech.

There are many other brands of iron planes that are not related
to the Bailey family tree.  These are often referred to as
"Patent planes."  These are the backwaters of plane evolution. 
These are ideas that, good or bad, never made it into the big
time.  Sometimes they are the work of inspired geniuses.  Other
times, they are simply lame attempts to cash in on the success of
Bailey's design whilst skirting his patents.  Generally, they are
much rarer than the Stanleys.  In some cases, collectors seek
them, in others they ignore them while shelling out major moolah
for much more common Stanleys.  Some would make fine users, some
are too valuable, and others are just junk.


9. What to watch for when buying
================================
The most devastating problem is a crack in one of the castings. 
This often happens on the sides of the plane, in the area around
the mouth.  If there is a crack here, chances are the plane will
not work well.  There are often cracks around the mouth on the
bottom of the plane as well.  Chips are often seen in front of
and behind the mouth.  It they are in the front there is a
problem, since this will impede the proper function of the plane. 
Ones behind the mouth, if small and not connected to cracks, can
be considered merely cosmetic.  Often portions of the side are
chipped off.  If these are relatively small, they shouldn't be a
problem.  However, the plane should be appropriately discounted.

Cracks in the lever cap can be disastrous.  These often occur
around the hole for the screw, or by the lever itself.  These
will allow the cap to flex, preventing proper tensioning.  Often
the bottom edge of the lever cap is chipped.  They were sometimes
used as screw drivers for the screw on the iron.  A small chip is
no disaster, but large ones can cause uneven pressure to be
applied to the iron, allowing one side to chatter.

Cracks in the tote and knob are common.  Totes are often
repairable with an adhesive suitable for exotics.  Often past
owners have botched repair attempts, complicating things because
the old adhesive must first be removed.  Radial cracks in the
knob are tougher to fix, and if severe, can hinder proper
tightening of the knob.

Pitting from rust is common on the metal parts of old tools. 
Pitted castings, while ugly, are not really a problem unless
severe.  On the sole they can prevent the plane from leaving a
smooth surface, which is of course the whole point.  Examine
pitting closely beside and around the mouth.  I've seen planes
that have been welded reasonably well, where the clearest sign of
the repair are gas bubbles in the weld that resemble rust pits.
Pitting is more of a problem when it occurs on the rear of the
blade.  This often happens when water collects in the capillary
reservoir formed by the blade and the chip breaker.  If it's
light, it can be ground off when flattening the blade.  Sometimes
it is too deep for this to be possible.  The blade can still be
used for rough work, but it will never leave a smooth surface.

While looking at the blade, check for how much life is left in
it.  New blades had 2" or so of iron below the notch.  Discount
the value if less than 1" is left.

Familiarize yourself with the function of the various adjustment
mechanisms and make sure they are in working order.  With proper
tension on the lever cap, they should work smoothly without
excessive pressure.  Disassemble the plane to make sure
everything is as it should be, and that all parts are there. 
Check important working surfaces for wear: the slot in the
adjustment wheel, the wheel on the end of the adjustment lever. 
Check to see that the screw heads are not stripped or abused:
this can be a sign of rough handling.

Check the sole for flatness.  The sole need not be optically
flat, but serious warping is a problem.  Soles can be hollow,
convex or twisted along their length.  If you can spot the
problem by eye, it's best to pass on the plane.  If you plan to
use the plane in a shooting board or for shoulder work, make sure
the sides are square to the sole.  Sight down the soles and
fences of wooden planes.  Be especially attentive to planes with
mouths that cut completely cross the sole, like dados.  These are
particularly prone to warping out of line.

These are the things to look for when buying a user plane.  The
collector market is a whole different ball game.  There, finishes
are faked, planes are modified to resemble rarer ones, mixed
parts from different types become problems, etc.  Hopefully, if
you are spending that kind of moulah, this FAQ is not your only
guide.


10. Basic plane types
=====================

Bench Planes:
-------------

I will list these in order of use, the Stanley numbering system
lists them in order of size from small to large.

Jack Planes:
------------
Jack Planes range in size from about 12" to 15" in length, and
their irons vary from 1 3/4" to 2 3/8" wide.  These are used for
rough shaping of boards.  Their mouths are left wide, and chip
breakers set back 1/16" or more from the edge of the blade.  They
are made to remove large quantities of wood quickly.  Their
blades are often radiused to facilitate this.  The #5's are the
jack planes in the Stanley series.  The #5 is the basic jack. 
The 5 1/4 is a junior jack made for smaller hands, and for manual
training courses.  The 5 1/2 is a the bigger version.

There is another common bench plane that functions similar to a
jack.  This is the scrub plane.  Scrubs are short, with narrow 
(1 1/4" - 1 1/2"), sharply radiused blades.  They have no chip
breakers, very thick blades and wide mouths.  They are made to
hog off a lot of stock quickly.  Stanley's scrubs are the #40 and
the #40 1/2.  There a lot of European style wooden scrub planes
out there.  These have no rear tote, but a curved "horn" at the
toe, where the knob would be on a Bailey plane.

A well tuned jack can, in a pinch, be used for a smoother, or a
jointer.  They can do an adequate job in each, neither as well as
the dedicated plane.  Some have suggested a relationship with the
saying "Jack of all trades" here.

Jointers:
---------
Jointers are long planes.  They are used to flatten and joint the
faces and edges of a board with some accuracy.  Their long length
lets them ride over valleys and slice off the ridges on a board. 
They begin in size at 18" and go up to 24" in the Stanley line,
other types of jointers go all the way up to 30" or more.  The
longer the plane, the flatter the resulting surface.  The Stanley
jointers begin with the #6 at 18" long.  It's serviceable, but
considered too small for many.  It is attractive to those who
have a hard time with the bigger jointers.  The #7 is Stanley's
standard jointer.  It is 22" long and has a 2 3/8" blade.  The #8
is Stanley's biggest bench plane.  It's 24" long with a 2 5/8"
blade.

Smoothers:
----------
While the jointer leaves an acceptable surface on most woods,
finicky woods with difficult grain require a very precisely set
plane to be adequately finished.  A tightly tuned smoother will
shear off a delicate, lacy shaving leaving a surface with great
depth and clarity.  Such surfaces far surpass the results given
by abrasives, or even scrapers.  There is a belief, propagated by
some major names, that the smoothing plane should be followed by
final scraping.  I remain clueless as to the wisdom of this.
Seems like saying: "after washing the windows, rub the glass with
an oily rag."

Smoothers are smallish planes.  The Stanley #3 is 8" long with a
1 3/4" iron, while the #4 is 9" by 2".  Stanley made a #1 (5 1/2"
by 1 1/4") and a #2 (7" by 1 5/8"), but these are primarily
collector's tools and are priced accordingly.  There is also a #4
1/2 that is 10" by 2 3/8".  The shorter length of the smoothers
allow them to be used on problem spots where the grain may change
direction.  In such cases, one may have to plane in many
different directions on one board to get an adequate finish.

The key to the function of a smoother is a very tight mouth. 
Usually, the frog is set as far forward as possible on a Bailey
pattern plane.  The best smoothers have mouths of around .007" in
width (that's seven thousandths) or less.  Try for less than 1/64
of an inch.  The chip breaker should also be set very close to
the edge of the blade.  Again, 1/64" is a good place to start. 
Remember, you are using this plane last, the board should already
be square and very flat.  You will be removing from .0015 to
.005" (at most) with this plane.  The finer the shaving, the less
chance of tearout.

Block Planes:
-------------
Block planes are designed to shear off end grain.  Perhaps the
etymology is connected to the butcher's block.  Block planes have
the iron bedded bevel up, and have no chip breakers.  Turning the
blade bevel up allows the bedding angle to be decreased, without
requiring the sharpening angle to become more shallow and thus
weakening the edge.  Standard block's are bedded at 20 degrees,
while low angle blocks are bedded at 12 degrees.  The lower
cutting angle allows them to shear without "bruising" the end
grain.  These are very useful tools for trimming and fitting. 
Many have adjustable mouths which can be closed very tight
allowing a delicate shaving to be taken.  They can rival the best
smoothers.  Avoid those that lack adjustable mouths.  No matter
how much Mario Rodriguez loves his pretty Lie-Nielson bronze copy
of the old Stanley #103, it's still no rival for the lowly,
grungy Stanleys with adjustable mouths. Stanley made A LOT of
different block planes.  The most common quality planes are
numbers 9 1/2, 60, 65.  A lot of the others (but not all) are
junk.  

If you find a #62, rejoice!  It's one of the best tools Stanley
ever made.  This is a jack sized plane with a low angle block
mechanism.  It has an adjustable mouth.  Sell it to a collector
and buy Lie-Nelson's primo reproduction.

There are tons of other types of planes.  Many of these were made
for working various elements of fine joinery.  Many of them have
been replaced by the noisey electric router.  I won't go into
them here, but know there are dedicated planes of the following
types: rabbets, filletsters, ploughs, dados, side rabbets,
shoulder planes, skew blocks, edge planes, chisel planes, butt
mortise planes, scraper planes and routers.  For a good
description of many of these, see Dunbar's book. 


11. Moulding vs. Universal Planes
================================
Many people are interested in the #55 because ideally they can
produce many moulding profiles.  Through a combination of
different shaped cutters, using multiple passes, these planes can
indeed produce a wide range of profiles.  They also do plough,
filletster, and match work.  Owning one (rather expensive) plane
saves one the trouble and cost of assembling the whole range of
wooden planes it replaces.

However, there is a downside.  These planes have no mouth--well
actually they have an infinitely wide one.  Thus, the tearout
reduction provided by the mouth on a dedicated moulding plane is
lost.  This may not be as disastrous as it seems, since in
general, one tries to pick the clearest, straightest grained
stock available when sticking mouldings.  Still, it is an issue.

These planes are also temperamental.  "Jack of all trades, master
of none," applies here as much as above.  Unlike a dedicated
moulding plane which has all the registers and stops built into
its stock and set forever, these must be set each time a
universal plane is used.  This can cause inconsistent results. 
That said, I have read articles where people who do restoration
work swear by them.  For folks likely to encounter such a wide
range of profiles, owning one plane, as opposed to 48 or so does
have a distinct advantage.  That said (again!), it is important
to note that these tools were produced at a time when the
repertoire of profiles had become impoverished.  They are not
universally useful for work in all periods.  Dunbar points out
that even the proportions of simple profiles, such as quirked
beads changed over time.


12. Saws 
========

What is the nib on the back for?
--------------------------------
One of the most frequently asked of all frequently asked
questions.  It rivals the everpresent question concerning
aftermarket TS fences, it lacks, however, the longevity of
threads engendered by that question.

Many answers have been suggested: it is used to test the temper
of the steel, to start the cut, to remove splinters from the
kerf, to hold a string for level, to hold string to tie on a
sawblade protector, repressive desublimation, you name it.

The most agreed upon answer is that it is a vestige of earlier
ornate decoration on European saw backs.  According to a 1915
publication of Henry Disston & Sons (who should know something)
the nib is purely decorative.


How do I remove these funky screws?
-----------------------------------
These are split nuts.  You can remove them with a special
screwdriver.  These special tools can only be had by those
willing to file a slot of  appropriate width into a regular blade
screwdriver.

A question that perhaps should be asked: 
"Should I mess with these screws?"
----------------------------------

There are a number of factors to consider when removing the
screws from saw handles.  

     1. The nuts are usually very tightly set into their
countersunk holes and cemented there by the shellac finish. 
Often, all too often, removal will cause the wood to chip out
around the nuts.  This is ugly, a shame, and turns off
collectors.  Superglue has helped this fool when in that
situation.

     2. To function properly, the saw blade must be held
extremely tight in its handle.  Often, due to moisture loss, old
handles become loose.  In this case tightening the nuts, or if
extreme, removing them, and filing 1/16" off the bolt and
reassembling, can help quite a bit.  Note however, that it
sometimes takes A LOT of torque to properly remount the handle. 
Otherwise the saw will buzz, not sing, and you will be deprived
of the bliss you seek.  Sometimes, whilst being torqued on, the
wood will give way and the nuts will spin free. If this happens,
sometimes you can get relief by clamping the handle in a vice and
squeezing it close to the blade before tightening.


13. Infill ("Norris") style planes
===============================
These are often called "Norris" planes after their most famous
manufacturer Thomas Norris of London.  There were many other
makers, Norris earned his name by producing a very precise blade
adjuster.  The basic design was popularized by Stewart Spiers of
Ayr Scotland, who adapted it from earlier designs of mitre
planes.  Years after Spiers' success, Norris and other makers
such as Mathieson and Preston got on the bandwagon.  So, Stew
probably stews each time someone calls the genre by the name of
his copy cat competitor.

What are they?
--------------
They are very precise planes made for precise finishing work.
Their construction consists of a shell made of sheets of mild
steel dovetailed together.  Sheet metal is the "MDF" of the metal world,
the process relieves the internal stresses of cast metal, thus it moves
much less over time.  (Cheaper ones were made of cast iron,
better ones of dovetailed gunmetal.)  This shell is filled with a
hardwood such as beech, rosewood or even ebony.  They are made
for final smoothing of surfaces (thus come as smoothers, panel
planes and jointers) and for final precise tweaking of joints
(thus mitre and shoulder planes).  Ok, there are other kinds like
chariot, thumb, and rebate planes too.

Why are they good?
------------------
Several aspects of thier construction are important.  They have a
thick (3/16") parallel or "gauged" iron, which does not change
size as it's consumed like the tapered irons in wooden planes.
The iron is firmly bedded on a heavy endgrain wood block along
its entire length.  This, along with the metal sole gives the
combined advantages of wood and metal planes: the iron is firmly
bedded and the mouth is not prone to wear.  Their mouths are very
tight.  On a smoother they hover between 7 and 9 thousandths.  On
a mitre plane, they are even tighter.  They have a screw-lever
hold down made of a massive block of gunmetal (a type of bronze)
that can apply great force across the entire width of the blade.
They are usually bedded slightly steeper than the "common" pitch
(45 deg) found on the Bailey pattern planes.  Most infills
measure between 47 and 47.5 degrees.  This is more suitable for
figured hardwoods.

They were designed and built as premium tools.  Made to strict
tolerances, often each blade was custom fit to a plane.  The
mouth is extremely tight.  They are made to take only the finest
of shavings. Another advantage they possess is their massiveness.
This decreases the likelihood of the plane deflecting when
encountering difficult grain or when used on an extremely hard
wood.

All of these design features combined, yield a plane that does
exactly what a plane should: hold the blade firmly at the proper
angle and allow it to clearly shear a layer of wood off with no
tearout.  Not only do they excel with highly figured wood, they
leave a better surface on ordinary woods as well.  This
difference is visable to the untrained eye.  With a Bailey style
smoother, there is always some micro-tearout.  The surface,
although better than sanding or scraping, looks somewhat fuzzy.
With an infill smoother, the surface of the wood actually shines,
you are looking at a perfectly flat plane of wood, where the
fibers are neatly sheared and the pores are left open.  This
results in greater depth when the wood is finished.

Note however, that not all infill planes are equal.  Models with
later production dates can be sloppily made.  The key
descriminating factor is the tightness of the mouth.  Later
planes have wider mouths, and sometimes previous owners have
opened narrow mouths with a file.  This kills the user value of
such a plane.  I would avoid any smoother with a mouth much over
9 thou.  For mitre and shoulder planes, the mouth needs to be
even tighter.

Do I need one?
--------------
Due to user demand and collector speculation, their cost has been
rising for some time.  Decent user smoothers without the Norris
adjuster are going for $300 or so.  Not everyone needs one, but
many folks want one.  They are used only for the final finishing
of a wood surface, as they remove tremendously fine shavings.  I
think it's best to learn how to push a Bailey pattern smoother to
its limits before acquiring one of these, so that one can really
appreciate what they do.  (Sure that's paternalistic, but I still
think its true ;-).  Lie-Nelson's #62 clone with its adjustable
mouth is supposed to be a fine substitute for less money.  There
are several places producing infill repros as both finished
models and kits.  The repros are not cheap, since their
production is very labor intensive.  For those inclined to
provide thier own labor intensity, Jim Kingshott's _Making and
Modifying Woodworking Tools_ (ISBN 0 946819 32 7) includes
several chapters on making these planes using a variety of
methods.  Kingshott's book is in desperate need of editing
however, see Mike Lindgren's reflections on making a plane using
Kingshott's plans in the archives at "The Electronic
Neanderthal."  The book _The Best of FWW: Bench Tools_ has an
article about making a an infill panel plane.


14. Internet Resources
======================
Allan Fisher maintains a Web page devoted to the use, lore, and
acquisition of antique tools called the "Electronic Neanderthal"
it can be found at:
 
http:/www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html  

Valuable archives and pointers to other net resources can be
found there.  Among the archives are Ken Smith's Handtool.faq,
Patrick Leach's many essays on Stanley tools and Ralph Brendler's
essay on the care, feeding and exercise of cabinet scrapers.

There is a listserv group, the name of which says it all:
"Oldtools."  The faqs and archives of the group can be found at
the Electronic Neanderthal, as well as information about
subscribing.



=================================================================
Vince Miller
Dept. of Theology
University of Notre Dame
miller.4@nd.edu
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


From dvogel@lucent.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:10 EST 1997
Article: 192916 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!not-for-mail
From: dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R. Vogel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:46:26 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Middletown, New Jersey
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Distribution: na
Message-ID: <5heiqi$bsg@nntpb.cb.lucent.com>
References: <19970327023000.VAA04067@ladder01.news.aol.com> <333A87D0.3F71@lucent.com> <333aa7de.7092211@news.tiac.net>
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In article <333aa7de.7092211@news.tiac.net>,
>
>Narrow wheels, narrow pointed nose on the car itself.  (aerodynamics in mind)
> Well sanded to deflect any turbulence that may occur.

You forgot the smiley face here, I think.  At the speeds that Pine Wood
cars run, turbulence is not going to be a problem.  Your other
suggestions about reducing the friction on the axles is probably the
thing to do.

Dennis Vogel


From Bruce_Taylor@iris*com Wed Apr  2 11:59:11 EST 1997
Article: 192917 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bruce Taylor <Bruce_Taylor@iris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:48:39 -0500
Organization: Lotus Development Corporation
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
> In article <01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default> "BEN SIMPSON" <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> 
> >My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
> >looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to fix
> >the problem?
> 
> Another who wants free help, but won't even bother to check the NG for it.
> 
> OK, Ben, here goes:  You can't fix it - you must replace it.  Use a spade bit
> and jigsaw to cut a square in the table.  Then get some new teak and cut to
> fit.
> 
> Rich

Rich's advice is nonsense - and I don't much care for his attitude,
either. The white circle is almost certainly a chemical change in
the finish. The answer might be as simple as waxing the whole table
with a good grade of furniture wax, or it might require refinishing
the table top. It certainly does NOT require reconstruction of the
wood surface.

				<Grumph...>
				Bruce Taylor
-- 
-------------------------------------------------
To reply, replace * with . in "Reply To:" address
... damn spammers...


From stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca Wed Apr  2 11:59:12 EST 1997
Article: 192918 of rec.woodworking
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From: stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca (Walt Stein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: reproducing Dinosaur skeletons or other complex drawings to scale.
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:56:47 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
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Message-ID: <333a964d.2920761@news.cc.umanitoba.ca>
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jwl@techline.com (John Lewin) wrote:


>My favorite method of enlarging things like this, is the overhead
>projector. Place your item on the projector's table, and project the
>image to a sheet of paper, taped to the wall. By moving the projector
>toward or away from the paper, you can have any size copy of the
>image, you like.
>Good Luck,
>John

I use a pc-based variant which gives me exact (or very nearly) size
reproductions when I work from scaled down plans or pictures.

I hand scan the portion or part using a cheap grey scale scanner that
I own and then crop the portion I wish to enlage or reduce. Then using
the print function on any decent graphics package, I can produce a
hard copy in which the cropped portion is precisely the size I desire,
give or take a few thousands of an inch.  This has worked excellently
for me in producing finials, complex ogees, etc...from plans or
drawings.  Also provides multiple copies, opportunity to reverse,
double and produce symmetrical pix (as of a finial when only one half
is shown, etc.). Even lets me mess with the design if I choose.

Only problem, of course, is that (as with copiers or projectors), the
layout lines get thick and fuzzy in direct proportion to the amount of
enlargement.  Am still looking for a package that will easily permit
sharpening of those lines by some sort of curve-analyzing/adjusting
algorithm.


Has made a big difference for me on any project that used to require
connect-the-dots drawing from a graph matrix.

yours,
walt
"It would seem that the universe is thirty billion light years across and every inch of it would kill us if we went there. This is the position of the universe with regard to human life." --Martin Amis


From BillLee@cleaf.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:13 EST 1997
Article: 192919 of rec.woodworking
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From: BillLee@cleaf.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian countertop
Date: 27 Mar 1997 20:15:43 GMT
Organization: Intex.Net (http://www.intex.net/)
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G Potter <gpotte@IBM.NET> wrote:
>Have the good fortune to be able to buy enough Corian ( in a color my
>wife likes!) to redo my kitchen counters. The only hitch is that I have
>to make several seams. Is there anyone with knowledge of joining corian
>that would be willing to share the techniques? I would really appreciate
>the help.
>
>Please e-mail advice to gpotte@ibm.net
>
>Thank you!


Where did you get the Corian? Whenever I've asked, I have been told that "You 
get your friendly Corian installer to install it for you." IOW, I've not been 
able to get Corian as a "raw material" for a DIY project.

Regards,

Bill Lee




From rmc@chem.psu.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:14 EST 1997
Article: 192920 of rec.woodworking
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From: rmc@chem.psu.edu (Robert Crable)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: 27 Mar 1997 20:26:31 GMT
Organization: Penn State University
Lines: 32
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In article <5he9pa$1j9s$1@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>, d89con3@austin.ibm.com 
says...
>
>
>Is there a newsgroup that discusses electric motor repair?  I just
>bought an old Walker-Turner sanding center from my uncle.  I took
>apart the motor to clean it up and found that the shielded bearings
>feel "dry".  Can shielded bearings be regreased?  If so, how and 
>with what type of grease?  Or do they need to be replaced? 
>
>
>-- 
>
>Greg Vrana
>d89con3@austin.ibm.com

Greg,
  Unless you're really hoping to pinch a penny, it's not worth trying to 
lube them, especially since you already have the motor apart.  Order new 
ones to fit.  Try Grainger  800-722-3291.  You'll find most of their 
bearings are $10 to $20 range, pretty cheap if you consider the cost of a 
new motor.  Just get the numbers off the bearings and let them cross 
reference them for you.  If you really are hoping to save some money, and 
a little time now, I usually put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil in the 
bearings.  They'll last a while, but if you feel any spots that "catch", 
pitch it and get a new one.
  Bob Crable
  Engineering Aide
  Research Instruments Electronics Shop
  Chemistry Department
  The Pennsylvania State University



From stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca Wed Apr  2 11:59:15 EST 1997
Article: 192921 of rec.woodworking
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From: stein@io.uwinnipeg.ca (Walt Stein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:21:24 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 57
Message-ID: <333a9a70.3980790@news.cc.umanitoba.ca>
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ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2) wrote:

>Tom Corey wrote:
>
>>I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
>>tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
>
>Gee, I was thinking of giving my Ryobi detail sander away (a tool I wish I
>had never bought) and getting the PC profile sander.  What have you heard,
>Tom?  Norm seemed to like it...  Any other comments on the machine?
>
>Braun Degenshein
>San Francisco

I was given one about a year and a half ago and, except for using the
profiles for hand sanding, had not used it (at all) until a month ago,
when I had to clean up deep ogees that I had rough-routed and hand
carved to final profiles within large gooseneck moldings.

I powered up the profile sander and it worked for maybe fifteen
seconds after which it continued to run but without motion at the
pad-head. Called my local delta repair/parts depot guys who are
terrific (!). They knew immediately what the problem was and had me up
and running an hour later (takes fifteen minutes to drive there,
fifteen back).  Seems that the first model of this tool had a press
fitted drive gear which wasnt held in place with a groove/snap-ring
fit on the shaft and it is likely that every one of the first run of
this tool will sooner or later fail.  Not a problem...its an easy fix
and Delta (hail to their much-appreciated approach to repairs) will
certainly look after it.

This may be source of the bad-mouthing that the tool receives.

In use, it does manage to creep into spots that are otherwise a bitch
to hand sand.  The straight line motion does limit it.  For example,
the goosenecks have only small portions where you can sand with the
grain, and hence, my final product still has some scratching.  But,
hey, I would have had the same result sanding by hand...and it would
have taken a great deal longer.

Vibration is low, although the tool can get out of control when a
curved sanding surface contacts a curved surface not congruent with
it. That is, it runs away or tries to slide into a more comfortable
position.  I have had no trouble with sandpapers slipping out of the
finger grips and I don't even use adhesive paper for the negative
curved rubber platens.  I simply curl the paper before applying and
press and bit harder when in contact with the stock.

All in all, I could easily do without it, but it isn't a bad tool and
it did come in handly.  In other words, I don't think its a turkey,
except for the problem I described above. If I were making large
amounts of straight line moldings (say for picture frames), it would
probably turn out to be very useful.  And it did show that Delta can
make mistakes....and can own up and repair them in good spirit.


"It would seem that the universe is thirty billion light years across and every inch of it would kill us if we went there. This is the position of the universe with regard to human life." --Martin Amis


From manhart@bio.tamu.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:17 EST 1997
Article: 192922 of rec.woodworking
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From: manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Brands in Canada
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:32:23 -0600
Organization: Dept. Biology, Texas A&M University
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In article <5hefuh$sft@News.Dal.Ca>, aa843@chebucto.ns.ca (John Douglas
Hutchinson) wrote:

> Hi:
> 
> Still "window shopping" for bandsaws in Canada...like the 14" 
> Delta...hate its price. Love the prices on the smaller Delta bandsaws, 
> hate the inferior quality...as compared to the Delta 14" bandsaw.
> 
> major snip
> 
> I am open to suggestion regarding more economical and comparable quality 
> options to the Delta 14" bandsaw in Canada. Anyone know of any other good 
> brands of bandsaws, available in Canada?
> 

General is a Canadian company that makes high end woodworking equipment. 
They make a 15" bandsaw that is apparently better than any other saw of
its size on the market.  It is rather expensive -- $999 U.S. for the basic
saw and its maximum height of cut is 6" (8" with Carter guides for another
$170) but no riser block is available to extend the height of cut beyond
8".


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:18 EST 1997
Article: 192923 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:48:21 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 41
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In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>, winstead@eecs.tulane.edu says...
>
>I'm really new to woodworking and I'm considering the purchase of a table 
>saw.  I've read the article in this month's FWW, and it didn't help me 
>clear up my confusion very much.  Here's where I stand:

<snip>

>So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
>people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
>comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ted

I don't have any personal experience with the Grizzly, but I've toyed
with the Ryobi a bit, and have found it a passable machine, though
not at all in the class of the Unisaw.  It's far more similar in terms
of 'feel' to a contractor's saw, IMO.

Dollar for dollar, if you're looking at a Unisaw that's in good shape,
I don't see how you could go wrong with a Unisaw.  The things last
forever, they're very accurate and very user-friendly (it's amazing how
much less fatigue I feel using a Unisaw as opposed to a contractor's
saw over a day's work or play...).  Anybody who tells you Delta is
worthless is a fool.  The Unisaw has been the de facto standard for
more than half a century, and it's design has been copied a hundred
times, but IMO, never surpassed.  Delta's quality and support are
world famous.  But don't take anybody's word for it (not even mine)...
try them out for yourself, and I believe you'll agree.  Either way, get
what feels good to you.  You're the one who'll be using it.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------



From tkarrman@giddings.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:20 EST 1997
Article: 192924 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas Paul Karrmann" <tkarrman@giddings.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: 27 Mar 1997 20:50:36 GMT
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The article in FWW referenced earlier in this thread is really very good. 
What is done is that the side molding is attached firmly at the front of
the case so that the miter does not come apart.  This does mean that the
molding will move at the back of the case which must be accounted for.  It
is still preferable to having the side of the cabinet split.

-- 
Tom Karrmann
Coming to you from beautiful Fond du Lac, WI

"Nothing can possibly go wrong!"
Opinions expressed are mine alone.


Mike McDonald <mikemac@engr.sgi.com> wrote in article
<5hc1ot$hf2@fido.asd.sgi.com>...
> In article <tip-250397163125@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu>,
> 	tip@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
> > In article <haubert.218.0017EAA2@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
<<< snip >>>
> 
>   This got me to thinking again (bad sign!). If you attach the molding on
a
> sliding mount so it can expand, won't it either gap or pressure the end
pieces?
> I'm think of something like on a table. (I'm building a desk, so it's
relevant
> to me.) Seems like where the two molding pieces meet at the mitre would
be a
> problem area.
> 
>   Mike McDonald
>   mikemac@engr.sgi.com
> 


From rossane@bnr.ca Wed Apr  2 11:59:21 EST 1997
Article: 192925 of rec.woodworking
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From: rossane@bnr.ca (Steve Rossanese)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router table plans
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:40:21 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Lines: 36
Distribution: world
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In article <01bc3a7f$4ba6a000$79a99bce@big-dave>, "David Cicutti" <cicutti@philly.infi.net> writes:
|> 
snip
|> 
|> Few things in life are free. I paid 29.95 for the video tape and plans from
|> NYW. The issue of AWW cost $4.50. If you check the schedule you might find
|> out when they are broadcasting the router table show again on NYW but the
|> plans that come with the tape make buying and laying out the wood for
|> cutting easy.
|> 

I waited patiently for about a year for the PBS station that feeds us here
in Ottawa to re-air that episode. Finally, there is was, Norm giving the 
preview of next week's show. The awsome router table. I waited and waited 
for Saturday to arive, brewed a fresh pot of coffee and sat with VCR remote
in hand anticipating the start of the show so I could tape it.

Would'nt you know it, they skipped that one episode!! The only time that I've
ever seen NYW skip an episode and it was the router table one.

My personal theory is that the suppliers of all the power tools and machines
pushed to have that episode 'shelved' since it would be more profitable for
people to purchase a router table or router/shaper than to make one of their
own. Same way that you don't often see Norm use a home made jig, but instead
use a purchased one instead. I guess I can't blame the suppliers or sponsors.
They won't make money if you don't buy their stuff.

Just a thought.

Steve
-- 
********************************************************************
* These are my thoughts, words and opinions and do not necessarily *
* reflect those of my employer.                                    *
* Steve Rossanese          *      Email: rossane@nortel.ca         *


From aa843@chebucto.ns.ca Wed Apr  2 11:59:22 EST 1997
Article: 192926 of rec.woodworking
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From: aa843@chebucto.ns.ca (John Douglas Hutchinson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bandsaw Brands in Canada
Date: 27 Mar 1997 18:57:21 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192926

Hi:

Still "window shopping" for bandsaws in Canada...like the 14" 
Delta...hate its price. Love the prices on the smaller Delta bandsaws, 
hate the inferior quality...as compared to the Delta 14" bandsaw.

The really frustrating part of this scenario is that it wouldn't take 
that much to provide the features of the 14" Delta Bandsaw on its smaller 
brethern. I'm convinced that there IS A MARKET for a QUALITY MINIATURE 
BANDSAW.

The Delta rep I spoke to on the phone told me that their cheaper tools 
are coming out of China! They are built there to Delta's specs. My 
understanding is that the 14" Bandsaw is still manufactured in North America!
If I'm right, it is becoming crystal clear why the lower-end Delta 
bandsaws are NOT getting rave reviews, from me or anyone else in this 
newsgroup. The one person I heard rave about a small Delta bandsaw in 
this newsgroup was from an owner of the machine in question...major 
credibility consideration is warranted here...he would know how good or how
bad his machine is...but even so...there is SO MUCH DIFFERENCE between 
the 14" and the "little brothers". I wonder how many prospective new 
Delta customers, like me, hear of Delta quality, go seriously looking at 
Delta machinery, see the little guys in the Delta stable, are unimpressed 
and take their business to one of Delta's competitors.

I can buy a 15" bandsaw made in the orient, with all the table 
adjustments that can be had on the Delta 14" bandsaw for HALF THE PRICE! 
It's going to take a lot of convincing to talk me out of spending 2/3 of 
this amount for an 8" Delta bandsaw with ZERO table adjustments! The 
smaller saw will meet my current needs.

I am no bandsaw expert...but I can do basic math...

I am open to suggestion regarding more economical and comparable quality 
options to the Delta 14" bandsaw in Canada. Anyone know of any other good 
brands of bandsaws, available in Canada?

Many thanks.


John

--
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 John D. Hutchinson           aa843@chebucto.ns.ca
 605-14 Churchill Court 
 Dartmouth, N.S.
 Canada
 B2X 1N4
 (902) 462-2248
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Hmmmm, wrong for the first time in my life...AGAIN...
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From michael_weal@dynapro.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:24 EST 1997
Article: 192927 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Weal <michael_weal@dynapro.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Brands in Canada
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:10:38 -0800
Organization: Online at Wimsey
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Jim Manhart wrote:
> 
> In article <5hefuh$sft@News.Dal.Ca>, aa843@chebucto.ns.ca (John Douglas
> Hutchinson) wrote:
> 
> > Hi:
> >
> > Still "window shopping" for bandsaws in Canada...like the 14"
> > Delta...hate its price. Love the prices on the smaller Delta bandsaws,
> > hate the inferior quality...as compared to the Delta 14" bandsaw.
> >
> > major snip
> >
> > I am open to suggestion regarding more economical and comparable quality
> > options to the Delta 14" bandsaw in Canada. Anyone know of any other good
> > brands of bandsaws, available in Canada?
> >
> 
> General is a Canadian company that makes high end woodworking equipment.
> They make a 15" bandsaw that is apparently better than any other saw of
> its size on the market.  It is rather expensive -- $999 U.S. for the basic
> saw and its maximum height of cut is 6" (8" with Carter guides for another
> $170) but no riser block is available to extend the height of cut beyond
> 8".

I recently purchased one of these saws for work, I have not had the
chance to used it :(.  

1) A riser block is not available for the saw because the saw is one
solid cast part.

2) this saw is a very nice bandsaw much better than anything we looked
at from delta.

3) We puchased the bandsaw because of its metal cutting capabilities. 
The Saw includes a transmistion for reducing teh speed down much lower
than what you get with a wood cutting bandsaw.

4) One thing I did not like about the saw is it did not come with a
caster system for moving the saw (Delta's 16" does) so we hav hadto make
our own.


From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:26 EST 1997
Article: 192928 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.150.11.20!chronicle.adobe.com!enquirer.adobe.com!news
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 21:07:00 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Lines: 44
Distribution: na
Message-ID: <5henhk$oa1@enquirer.corp.adobe.com>
References: <5hc2i6$2ce@nonews.col.hp.com>
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gozer.corp.adobe.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192928 misc.consumers.house:150761

Al DeVilbiss writes
> Lou Fernandez (lff@sequent.com) wrote:
> : We are trying to decide how to have the floors finished.  The floor guy
> : suggests a "Swedish finish" called Glitza which is a catalyzed
> : polyurethane.

Catalyzed polurethane finishes are among the most durable coatings you
can apply to wood. You have to decide if you like the look, can stand
the cost, and how you feel about contributing to pollution.


> : Lately, I've been wondering whether having the floors sealed and waxed
> : wouldn't be better.  The maintenance is higher and is ongoing with waxed
> : floors but scratches are easily repaired.  Also, the waxed floors can
> : last forever with proper maintenance whereas the surface finishes like
> : polyurethane will eventually wear out.

Wax is a surface finish. It will wear out. It will wear out faster than
most surface finishes.


> : So, - am I crazy to think that a waxed floor would be OK?  

Well, yes, a waxed floor can be OK.


> Consider a penetrating oil finish if you're not going to stain the oak....
> I finished the floor with Watco's "Oil Finish for Floors".  It's thicker 
> than the familiar Watco for furniture, otherwise similar application.

Watco is an oil/varnish blend - it sounds like the floor finish has even
more varnish than the normal Watco. So, you've essentially applied a
thin coat of varnish to your floors. A thinner coat of varnish than what
one normally applies when using polyurethane - which is also a varnish.

Thin coats of varnish are easier to apply and easier to repair than thick
coats. Since they're thinner they also look better to many people. They're 
also less durable, but that's a trade-off some people are willing to live 
with.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From pprocter@pipeline.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:27 EST 1997
Article: 192929 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.ironhorse.com!mr.net!news.idt.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: pprocter@pipeline.com (Philip Procter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Quartersawn wood
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:15:22 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <5heo28$r4u@camel4.mindspring.com>
Reply-To: pprocter@pipeline.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip81.carlisle.pa.pub-ip.psi.net
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192929

Somewhere in this NG I read that someone was looking for thick
quartersawn wood. I checked with my local supplier and he says he can
probably supply, depending on your exact requirments. Please contact
him by toll-free phone at: (888)636-WOOD(9663) or email to
rmehta@eznet.net. If you call ask for Rocky or Kim, they're the head
honcho's (she's head honcho and lets him think he is!)

The shop is in western NY. I've delt with them for some time and can
vouch for his honesty and knowlege.

Happy Easter!

Philip



God first,
then your neighbors and yourself,
all else is commentary.



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:30 EST 1997
Article: 192930 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-13.sprintlink.net!NEWS!not-for-mail
From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Jointers...Delta or Jet or someone else
Message-ID: <333AE262.5CE6@qgraph.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:13:10 -0600
References: <333a86b1.2241196@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
Organization: Quad GRaphics
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192930

boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> I'm looking to purchase a jointer in the near future and I have no
> idea which brand to go with. A maintanence man at work said that
> Jet machines don't last very long. Is this true? Do all jointers have
> to have there tables shimmed eventually? If anyone can steer me
> in the right direction I would appreciate it . Thanks
> 
>  boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com

PS.  The posts on the "affordable" Delta have not been to positive.  The
DJ series is over a grand and maybe thats what the "maintanence" man
referred to is an industrial strength vs. homeshop.

Good Luck



From pjrose@servtech.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:31 EST 1997
Article: 192931 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!rutgers.rutgers.edu!news.sgi.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeeder.toronto.ican.net!newsfeeder.servtech.com!post.servtech.com!pjrose
From: pjrose@servtech.com (Phil Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Timber Check moisture meter?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:52:29 -0500
Organization: ServiceTech, Inc.
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I would appreciate comments on the "Timber Check" moisture meter
(cylindrical shape with two 1/2" pins), which claims readings are within 1%
in the 6-11% moisture range. 

Is it a good value at $79??

-- 
Phil Rose


From  Wed Apr  2 11:59:32 EST 1997
Article: 192932 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!data.ramona.vix.com!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!usenet
From: (Coffee-The-Cat-WorX)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: FUJI Low Pressur Spray System REPOST!
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:16:01 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Palo Alto, CA, USA
Lines: 4
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You didn't offer your opinion of the Apollo system ??? Do you have
one?

Thanx ..... CTC


From ibdegen2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:33 EST 1997
Article: 192933 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 27 Mar 1997 21:53:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <19970327215301.QAA04294@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Teddy Winstead <winstead@eecs.tulane.edu> wrote in article
<MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>...
> Hi there.
> 
> I'm really new to woodworking and I'm considering the purchase of a
table

> saw.  I've read the article in this month's FWW, and it didn't help me 
> clear up my confusion very much.  Here's where I stand:
>[snip]
> I've been seeing used Delta Unisaws around here in the newspaper for the

> same price as the Grizzly or Ryobi, but some people tell me that Delta
is

> worthless.  This really confused me, because I've never heard a bad word

> about Delta in rec.ww.
> 
> So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
> people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
> comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ted

Where do you live?  I'd like to check out your want ads and get me a used
Unisaw for the price of a Ryobi.

Braun


From EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:34 EST 1997
Article: 192934 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ausnews.austin.ibm.com!not-for-mail
From: EmailToMichaelt@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Freud raised panel bits
Date: 27 Mar 1997 21:48:15 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <5hepuv$vua$1@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192934

In <E7F4oM.B0A@nonexistent.com>, daniels@carroll.com (Danny Sollecito) writes:
>Hi, I've purchased a set of Freud raised panel bits. The instructions are
>sparse to say the least. Anyone have any experience with these bits and know
>how much longer the rails needs to be cut (the visible rail plus what is hidden
>into the stiles).

I have two sets of cope and stick bits, both seat 3/8th of an inch into the
stile.


>
>Also , these doors will be overlayed doors onto a face framed cabinet with no
>middle stile. How do I handle  where the doors will close together. Do I use an
> astrigal behind one of the doors or should I attached it ontop of one of the
>doors. Any suggestions?

Might depend on how much your humidity varies where you live.  If pretty
constant you could just size the doors for a minimal gap.  Otherwise live
with a larger gap (it's not so bad).  I personally hate to _have_ to open one
side before the other (guess 'cause I always grap the wrong side :) ).

- Mike

 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************
  Michael E. Thompson (MichaelT@ausvmr.vnet.ibm.com)
                       T/L 678-0779  (512) 838-0779
                       IBM Austin, Austin, TX, USA
 *********************   No IBM Opinions Here!  ********************



From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:35 EST 1997
Article: 192935 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!mindspring!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Adirondack Chairs (Was Re: Let us try this)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:05:05 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <5heqvk$67a@camel4.mindspring.com>
References: <moosemeat.1012.00446589@halcyon.com> <333A872C.18BF@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> <MPG.da46f8713cdcee4989685@news.tulane.edu>
Reply-To: scoundrl@mindspring.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192935


Take a peek at the file JAKE.ZIP in my ftp site

ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl

The zipped file contains a text file describing how to build the world's most
comfortable Adirondack Chair and footstool.  There are also pictures of the
chair from all viewpoints and measured plans that can be printed out on
typing-sized paper.  

Tom

winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) wrote:

>> Ob.rec.ww:  I just finished sanding the parts for an Adirondack
>>             chair with my new Grizzly 6" belt/9" disk stationary
>>             sander.  It was an early birthday present from my wife.
>>             Why didn't I get this years ago?  It's great!

>Where did you get your plans for the chairs?  Or did you design them 
>yourself?

>Ted
>-- 
>Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
>winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
>Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 





Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:37 EST 1997
Article: 192936 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Adirondack Chairs (Was Re: Let us try this)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:29:02 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <5hescs$r4i@camel4.mindspring.com>
References: <moosemeat.1012.00446589@halcyon.com> <333A872C.18BF@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> <MPG.da46f8713cdcee4989685@news.tulane.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192936


You might take a peek at the file jake.zip in my FTP site.

ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl

The file is a text file, combined with .bmp images of the chair's pictures and
drawings.

Tom 

winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) wrote:

>> Ob.rec.ww:  I just finished sanding the parts for an Adirondack
>>             chair with my new Grizzly 6" belt/9" disk stationary
>>             sander.  It was an early birthday present from my wife.
>>             Why didn't I get this years ago?  It's great!

>Where did you get your plans for the chairs?  Or did you design them 
>yourself?

>Ted
>-- 
>Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
>winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
>Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 





Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:37 EST 1997
Article: 192937 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!worldnet.att.net!news.dra.com!azure.xara.net!xara.net!news.thenet.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!204.147.226.2!quack!news.scruz.net!usenet
From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hats off to ToolCrib
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:10:15 GMT
Organization: scruz-net
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <01bc3ae2$59783000$1bbdb3cd@the_tick.mediware.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.179.189.27
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192937

I ordered a Delta Sliding Miter Saw and a 8ft. Tru Grip Rip guide on
Monday. The Tru Grip showed up on Tuesday and the Saw on Wednesday. Great
price no shipping charge...


Thanks Tool Crib!

-- 
somebody@inow.com
www2.inow.com/~somebody


From mike@eco.twg.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:40 EST 1997
Article: 192938 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!scoop.eco.twg.com!usenet
From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Outfeed Table for Delta Contractor II TS
Date: 27 Mar 1997 22:40:58 GMT
Organization: The Wollongong Group
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <5het1q$bc3@scoop.eco.twg.com>
References: <01bc3a52$72ce8e40$807de3c7@gate.net.gate.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192938

In article <01bc3a52$72ce8e40$807de3c7@gate.net.gate.net>, "Don Lipinski" <lipinski@gate.net> took the time to say:
>Can anyone give any advise on constructing an outfeed table for a Delta
>Contractor II Table Saw?  Something that would fold down when not in use? 
>Please email or post.  Thanks in Advance.

I don't know if this would be adequate, but when I need something to support
outfeed from my TS or planer I use a little thing I made with a 1.25" steel
roller I got at the local homecenter store (about $9 I think).  

The roller is about 14" long, ball-bearings and mounted in a little holder
designed to be screwed down to something.  I attached it to the side of a
2x4, then attached that to a piece of scrap pine 1x12 about 18" long.  I
drilled a 1/2" hole in the 1x2 opposite the roller so I can hang the thing
on a nail on the wall when I'm not using it.  

To use the roller I clamp it vertically in one of my B&D Workmates,
adjusting the roller height as needed.  The Workmate is strong enough and
stable enough, and the roller can be positioned as needed in it.  It works
for my TS, and for my 12" planer (which is mounted on my other Workmate :^).

-- Mike 
    "you can also get bars with 6 big ball bearings on top, rather than a 
     roller, from the same company" 
         Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
It behooves the writer to avoid archaic expressions.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From merrick@litle.net Wed Apr  2 11:59:41 EST 1997
Article: 192939 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news1.agis.net!agis!newsgod.santaclara.agis.net!news4.agis.net!news.cyberg8t.com!Empire.Net!usenet
From: Glenn & Miyoko Merrick <merrick@litle.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Picnic table plans, help please
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:47:14 -0500
Organization: Empire.Net, Inc. (603) 889-1220
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <333ACEC2.3DA5@litle.net>
Reply-To: merrick@litle.net
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Well its spring time and I have the need for a new picnic table.

Could someone please point me in the right direction for some plans.
Nothing fancy, just a nice classic style table for the deck. Email of
plans would be great or a tel number to get me started.

Thanks, Glenn
merrick@litle.net


From LairdA@ncentral.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:42 EST 1997
Article: 192940 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!xfer.kren.nm.kr!mr.net!europa.clark.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!rill.news.pipex.net!pipex!blackbush.xlink.net!newsrelay.uni-trier.de!news01.uni-trier.de!usenet
From: "Laird Allshouse" <LairdA@ncentral.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Left-Handed Drill Driver??
Date: 27 Mar 1997 22:45:36 GMT
Organization: Universitaet Trier
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <01bc3b00$548878c0$81a296ce@206.150.162.2.dns.ncentral.com>
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I have a DeWalt 14.4 hammer drill.  It drills and drives
great!!

But.

I find that it was designed for right-handed users.  The
reversing switch goes through the handle just above
where the third knuckle on the index finger rests.  In
the normal drive mode the switch sticks out a bit from
the handle on the left side.

For right-handers this is fine, but for left-handers it is
a pain.  As you twist and move your hand around to
get at those hard to reach places, you find that you
have thrown the switch to the reverse status.

Any DeWalt repairmen out there who can tell me how
much trouble it would be to reverse the wires on that
switch?

Regards, Laird


From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:43 EST 1997
Article: 192941 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodhaven Sliding Cut-off Box
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:37:37 -0800
Organization: Titan Information Systems Corporation
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <333AF6B1.6549@titan.com>
References: <5h4jf2$76q@nntpb.cb.lucent.com> <33375DF4.7FBE@hal-pc.org> <5h9jt4$cp0@cronkite.cisco.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; I)
To: "P. Eric Chi" <echi@cisco.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192941

P. Eric Chi wrote:
> 
> In article <33375DF4.7FBE@hal-pc.org>, keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org> wrote:
> >Dennis R. Vogel wrote:
> >>
> 
> >I looked at the catalog also.  WAY to expensive!  I made my cut-off box
> >out of a left piece of 1/2 baltic birch and some paint grade 8/4 maple.
> >I used 3/8 x 3/4 super slick plastic for the runners (avoids sticking
> >due to humidity changes).
> 
> Hi, what is the "super slick plastic"?  Where can I get it?

I'll answer your questions out of order...You can get it mail order from
Woodworkers Supply, and I have seen it in our local Woodworkers Store
retail store...it coes in several sizes, one of which is, interestingly,
3/8 X 3/4  x (i think) 36", which is perfect for runners for jigs used
on tablesaws.  You wanna look for/ask for UHMW (Ultra High Molecular
Weight) material.  It is available elsewhere, as well.

> Thanks,
> 
> Eric.
> 
> > I use a  wooden screw clamp for the stop.
> >This box is dead on accurate and total out of pocket cost was about
> >$20.00.  This left more money for my next toy.  Fine Woodworking had
> >great article on cutoff boxes about a year ago.
> >
> >Buzz

And for what it's worth, I made my own cut off sled too...just used oak
for the runners...waxed 'em, and it works great.  But I'm in SoCal, and
don't really have humidity concerns...YMMV.  If I'm trying to cut something
square, I use the cutoff sled, as it's more accurate than a miter guage.
Definitely worth building.

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From mike@eco.twg.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:44 EST 1997
Article: 192942 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans - Sharpened Stick
Date: 27 Mar 1997 22:52:23 GMT
Organization: The Wollongong Group
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <5hetn7$bc3@scoop.eco.twg.com>
References: <199703220523.XAA25538@mail.xnet.com>
    <33337D85.E28@seesigblock.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vishnu.eco.twg.com
X-Newsreader: TPU-Newsreader (TNR) v1.1
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192942

In article <33337D85.E28@seesigblock.com>, Adam Whiteson <nospam@seesigblock.com> took the time to say:
>Ignore all these jokers!  If you are serious about making a sharpened
>stick I have plans which I will sell for a mere $50.

You don't need plans if you use a properly shaped charge of plastic
explosives.  You attach this to the end of your chosen stick, back off to a
safe distance (at least 3 or 4 feet) and yell, "Fire in the hole!" very
loudly (I'm not sure which hole this is meant to refer to...the stick is
extremely convex...but it's traditional, and who am I to fight tradition?). 
You then activate your detonator and begin the hunt for your now-sharpened
stick...

-- Mike 
     "there is no personal problem so severe that it can't be solved by a 
      suitable application of high explosives" 
          Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
Do not use hyperbole; not one writer in a million can use it effectively.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From mike@eco.twg.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:45 EST 1997
Article: 192943 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike@eco.twg.com (Mike [insert quote here] Bartman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans - Sharpened Stick
Date: 27 Mar 1997 22:59:37 GMT
Organization: The Wollongong Group
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <5heu4p$bc3@scoop.eco.twg.com>
References: <2.2.32.19970319165444.0068dc88@engult.lxe.com>
    <333055BD.1482@ix.netcom.com> <333047BD.5F44@boeing.com>
    <pmiller-2103971518010001@pm37697.mmm.com>
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In article <pmiller-2103971518010001@pm37697.mmm.com>, pmiller@mmm.com (Phil Miller) took the time to say:
> At 08:04 AM 3/19/97 -0800, you wrote:
>>I want to make a stick with one end sharpened.  Does anyone know of any
> >plans for such an item?  The stick should be about 4' long.  I want to
>>put a point on one end, preferably the end that points down.  It should
>>be able to penetrate the earth deeply enough to stand on its own.  Anyone
>>have any plans?
>
>The best way to sharpen a stick is the way it was done a hundred years
>ago by REAL craftsmen:  use a Stanley #33 1/3 stick sharpening plane.
>Of course the Stanley #33 1/3 isn't as good as the Record #007, but
>those are EXTREMELY rare -- only two were ever made and I own them
>both (I got them at a garage sale).

<regretful snip>

>Rehone the blade often while sharpening the stick.
>
>If you find that you have too much end grain tearout, switch to a
>Stanley #3.1415927 plane.  It was especially designed for stick
>sharpening endgrain.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Phil Miller
>pmiller@mmm.com

ROFLGOST!!*

Thank you!  This is the funniest thing I've read or heard in the last year! 
I had to wipe the tears from my eyes to type this note.  You are a true
master of the parody art form.  My hat, not to mention my contact lenses,
are off to you!

-- Mike "*Rolling On Floor, Laughing Guts Out, Streaming Tears" Bartman --

==============================================================================
| I didn't really say all the things that I said.  You probably didn't read  |
| what you thought you read.  Statistics show that this whole thing is more  |
| than likely just a hideous misunderstanding.				     |
|                                -- * * * --                                 |
|             I don't buy from people who advertise by e-mail.               |
|                       I do complain to their ISPs.                         |
==============================================================================

==============================================================================
Avoid cliches like the plague.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From dow@flash.net Wed Apr  2 11:59:46 EST 1997
Article: 192944 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ok... Which router?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:57:25 -0600
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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Ok... So... Which router for a router table that I'm going to build?

Bosch? 
Freud?
DeWalt?

Inquiring minds wanna know.
-- 
===========================================================================
Michael R. Dow
Independent Excel Representative
RTD, Austin, TX

Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
be charged a $100 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
to me - consider this an official notice:

"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),
it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment.
By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
whichever is greater, for each violation."

for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm


From craig1708@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:47 EST 1997
Article: 192945 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fisheyeing
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:26:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192945

Fisheye is the seperation of the finish caused by silicone contamination,
the prime source is Pledge (and some others).  The finish "pools" up into
little circle that look like fisheyes. There is no way to completely get
rid of silicone as if you strip a piece that has been contaminated, the
solvent merely drives it deeper into the wood, epecially if the finish has
degraded and crazed. The silicone will go through the cracks like a
waterfall.
Adding silicone to the new finish material ( a common "cure") is like
adding gasoline to a fire. 
The problem is that you usually will not know if the surface is
contaminated until you attempt to put the new finish on.
There are ways to mask it, but it depends on what your finish material is
and your technique.

If you need more, write back.


**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From jimj4@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:48 EST 1997
Article: 192946 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Jenkins <jimj4@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:26:40 -0500
Organization: Netcom
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To: Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= <icepick@magi.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192946

Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= wrote:
> 
> Can anyone out there give me some information on Snakewood.
> I am a knifemaker / woodworker and found a half log of snakewood (approx
> 6" in diameter, 24" long) at a supply store in Montreal, Quebec and the
> asking price was $600.00 Canadian ???
> Does this sound realistic?
> As well, what is the scientific name for snakewood and where can it be
> found.
> I am looking for Burls of different kinds of hardwoods for knife
> handles. Can anyone advise who would be a good supplier.
> Thanks

This doesnt have much to do with your post but i noticed that you were a 
knife maker.  Do you know of anyplace i can buy some fine kitchen knives 
to add cocobolo handles to?  And if you do kow of someplace have you 
ever used cocobolo for this how does it work and what are some things to 
remember.
Jim


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:48 EST 1997
Article: 192947 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:23:53 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192947

In article <01bc3a4e$51871a80$5b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, "bcompton"
<bcompton@news.megalink.net> wrote:
> 
> It seems particle board (various types) and plywood is the predominate
> building material for cabinet boxes. Does anyone use hardwood for the
> boxes. 
> 
> Other than expense why use plywood or particle board if you can use the
> real stuff?
> 
> I'm an amateur woodworker and would appreciate all comments.


What type of cabinets?   Kitchen cabinets?  Or free standing trophy
cabinets?  The answers will be different depending on the type...

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:49 EST 1997
Article: 192948 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Norm's technique
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:25:16 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192948

In article <3339C6C9.10AF@gwis.com>, "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com> wrote:
> 
> Not to put anyone here down but at least Norm spends his time DOING
> woodworking rather than posting on the internet :-)

How do you know he doesn't post on alt.sex.tv_stars ???

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 11:59:50 EST 1997
Article: 192949 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: fingerprints
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In article <19970327014201.UAA00549@ladder01.news.aol.com>, dj1o1@aol.com
(DJ1O1) wrote:
> 
> I installed a new(unfinished) wood door. The kids put lots of fingerprints
> on it, and I need some suggestions on how to remove the fingerprints
> before I urethane it. Any ideas will be appreciated. Please E-mail
> answers.

Take 220 sandpaper, fold it around blocks of wood, hand it to the lil'
monsters, and make them sand them out.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From ed@taaz.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:51 EST 1997
Article: 192950 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!xfer.kren.nm.kr!mr.net!news.ironhorse.com!nntp.portal.ca!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!ftn.net!not-for-mail
From: Ed O'Connor <ed@taaz.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftex??!! King??!! Power Tools
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:57:52 -0500
Organization: Taaz Marketing and Advertising Inc.
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The price of the Craftex stuff does look appealing, but I'm shying away
>from  it because my uncle bought the 14" bandsaw and doesn't think much
of the fit and finish and says he is having trouble adjusting it.

Also, does anyone have any info on the Rexon tools that Busy Bee sells.
Their fit and finish looks better than the Craftex tools, and Busy bee
sells a 10" contractor type table saw and a few drill presses in this
line.

Thanks,

Ed O'Connor


From jabarnes@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:52 EST 1997
Article: 192951 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: "Jamie Barnes" <jabarnes@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Best Cordless Drill???
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:49:24 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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I'm new to this newsgroup, so if this has been discussed previously I
apologize. I'm going to buy a cordless drill in the next few weeks. I'm
having a house built so I'm going to use it for obvious things like hanging
mini blinds, shelves, etc. I'm also going to go in after the subfloors are
put down and screw in the floors to prevent squeaks. I'm considering buying
a 12V DeWalt. Partially because two of my buddies also have 12V DeWalts and
I could borrow their battery packs if I ever needed to. I've also looked at
Mikita, Bosch, and a couple of others. Any experiences, positive or
negative, would be appreciated.




From pdn@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE Wed Apr  2 11:59:53 EST 1997
Article: 192952 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!xfer.kren.nm.kr!mr.net!news.idt.net!enews.sgi.com!news.corp.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!news.an.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!not-for-mail
From: pdn@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (Paul Nuber)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi radial arm saw any good???
Date: 27 Mar 1997 22:13:52 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192952

Scott Lewandowski (westwood@tech-center.com) wrote:

:  I am looking into getting a radial arm saw, does anyone have any
: comments about the ryobi?  or any suggestions on any other models
: around the $ 300.00 range?.

    I have a Ryobi radial arm saw.  The motor is very noisey.  The 90
degree marks aren't quite at 90 degrees, more like 89 degrees.  The pins
that are supposed to help lock at 90 degrees also lock at 89 degrees.  I
mostly use it for framing, and it works well for that.

-- 
Paul Nuber
pdn@fc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Co.
Fort Collins, CO


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 11:59:53 EST 1997
Article: 192953 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fisheyeing
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:29:41 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
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Laura,

Fisheyeing occurs when a finish is applied on contaminated wood.  Wood
that is contaminated with grease, oil, silicones, and such are, in
effect, "wetter" than the coating you wish to apply.  The results are
that the coating will not flow out properly.  It tends to run from the
contaminated area, 'slips off', if you prefer.

Generally, with minor contamination, you will have craters, or
'fisheyes', on the surface after you coat.  In  worst cases, say you
have a piece of furniture sitting ready to recoat, here comes someone
in the shop who just ate fried chicken and leans their hands on the
top of the furniture, naturally you didn't notice so when you spray
the finish on after they leave you have the perfect hand print.

The major cause of silicone contamination is spray polishes.  Many
polishes nad waxes  have silicone added to give that "freshly polished
look" to your furnishings.  It gets into the wood through the finish
and while stripping.  There are ways to lessen the effects of this
problem from thorough rinsing while stripping to additives in the
coatings.  Most additives are actually silicone which you add to the
coatings prior to spraying, there is one that I know of from 3M that
is not a silicone and works very well.  Once you put the silicone
additive in the coating you must continue to do so with all the
coatings, the gun must be washed well before its next use if you do
not want to contaminate a 'clean' piece.  Also, over spray in the shop
>from  the additive can contaminate the other objects, that is why I
prefer using the 3M product Flourad, but it is super expensive.

Hope this helps.


================================================================================================
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 00:23:54 -0500, Nola Beckum <Laura92494@AOL.COM>
wrote:

>Hello ... I just read the message regarding "fisheyeing".  I'm still a bit of
>a novice at much of this ... would you mind explaining and educating me about
>fisheyeing?
>
>Thank you
>
>Laura



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From jerrys@pop.xetron.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:54 EST 1997
Article: 192954 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!psinntp!xetron.com!news
From: "Gerald B. Straight" <jerrys@pop.xetron.com>
Subject: Help: See Through Veneer?
Message-ID: <01bc3b09$a8100d60$342af2cc@jerrys>
Sender: news@xetron.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: gate129.xetron.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:50:35 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192954

I have a vintage wooden radio I'm trying to restore and they used a glass
panel that was vaneered to match the wood of the radio.  The panel is the
dial for the radio and when the set is on the light makes the dial show up
through the veneer.  The old veneer is flaking off the glass and I was
wondering how I might go about replacing it. Any ideas? 



From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:55 EST 1997
Article: 192955 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Queen Anne Leg Pattern
Date: 28 Mar 1997 00:15:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <333a8831.872373@nntp.holonet.net>, wdwrk2@nlenx.com (tom) writes:

>
>out the rough shape first.  So, I need a pattern to saw to.  The
>problem is I cannot find a pattern.  I have auto sketch and would like
>a digital plan that I could use with auto sketch.  Does anyone know
>where I could find an auto sketch pattern?  Or a hard pattern that I
>could use roughing out the leg?
>
>

Made my first one yesterday using FWW #104 & #117.  Much easier than anticipated!


From pttaylor@scsn.net Wed Apr  2 11:59:56 EST 1997
Article: 192956 of rec.woodworking
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From: pttaylor@scsn.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Coping Saw Blades
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:14:21 GMT
Organization: All USENET -- http://www.Supernews.com
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Can anyone recomend a good brand of coping saw blades? Preferably ones
that don't break and stay sharp.


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:57 EST 1997
Article: 192957 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cutting out country hearts- scroll saw vs router
Date: 28 Mar 1997 00:15:02 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <3339B4D0.33F9@gov.on.ca>, Steve Jacobs <jacobss@gov.on.ca> writes:

>I'd like your comments, advantages, disadvantages and opinions on the
>preferred method for cutting country hearts out of smaller pieces, such
>as shelf backs, quilt racks, shadow boxes, calander holders, etc.  The
>heart sizes would be from about 1" to 4 or 5" for a bigger piece.  The
>two methods I'm comparing are:
>
>

I prefer Forstner bit and scroll saw and 1/4" roundover.


From *davefr@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:58 EST 1997
Article: 192958 of rec.woodworking
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From: *davefr@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Cordless Drill???
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:30:49 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <333b10c5.117669552@news.mindspring.com>
References: <01bc3b09$7cbae9a0$e3c20b26@jbarnes>
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Panasonic is my all time favorite and it's gotten great reviews.

Avoid Milwaukee.  The motor self destructed on mine after minimal use.
They have a good warranty though.

  On 27 Mar 1997 23:49:24 GMT, "Jamie Barnes"
<jabarnes@mindspring.com> wrote:

>I'm new to this newsgroup, so if this has been discussed previously I
>apologize. I'm going to buy a cordless drill in the next few weeks. I'm
>having a house built so I'm going to use it for obvious things like hanging
>mini blinds, shelves, etc. I'm also going to go in after the subfloors are
>put down and screw in the floors to prevent squeaks. I'm considering buying
>a 12V DeWalt. Partially because two of my buddies also have 12V DeWalts and
>I could borrow their battery packs if I ever needed to. I've also looked at
>Mikita, Bosch, and a couple of others. Any experiences, positive or
>negative, would be appreciated.
>
>



From mjprusik@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 11:59:58 EST 1997
Article: 192959 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Matt Prusik <mjprusik@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:51:16 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <333B1604.F27@worldnet.att.net>
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To: Greg Vrana <d89con3@austin.ibm.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192959

I'd follow the recommendations here WRT replacement rather than relubrication of 
bearings.  Also, each time I order replacement bearings I specify SEALED rather than 
shielded bearings.  The seals keep dust and foreign matter away from the inside of the 
bearings which is the second most common reason for bearing failure -- lack of 
lubrication after mishandling during installation.
	Good luck!
	Matt



From mark.hodges@west.sun.com Wed Apr  2 11:59:59 EST 1997
Article: 192960 of rec.woodworking
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From: mark.hodges@west.sun.com (Mark Hodges)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: treated lumber
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:57:13 -0800
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <mark.hodges-2703971657130001@actiniummac.west.sun.com>
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Also, treated wood is highly toxic, so wear a mask while cutting it, and
don't burn the scrap.

In article <33302777.7AD3@bellsouth.net>, goldnrod@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Leo Allgire wrote:
> > 
> > i am just weekend wood worker,just as a hobby,but have a request to make
> > a project out of treated lumber, is it hard to work with? what about
painting
> > it? just any information will help.thanks to all'
> Treated lumber is difficult to paint. Let it "season" for a couple
> months in direct sunlight if possible and then use a good oil base
> primer and paint. Also, bear in mind that during the drying out, treated
> lumber will shrink A LOT. So, depending on what you are making may
> depend on how things fit together after it dries out! Also, if it's
> really still very wet, its hard to cut as the kerf tends to close up and
> bind on the saw blade. Be very carefull. Clean any cutting tools well
> after cutting it. The moisture and chemicals will corrode the blades
> quickly.
> Hope this helps. 
> Ernie.


From XXdoutenXX@ibm.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:00 EST 1997
Article: 192961 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <XdoutenX@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP ME UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:18:17 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <01bc3b04$b0b52220$LocalHost@internet.usinet.douten>
References: <970325002716_-1938939308@emout17.mail.aol.com> <5hafir$mov@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> <3339713B.50A8@hotcc.com>
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If you check the message headers you will see that her messages are being
forwarded from the woodworking discussions list.

Suzanne have you sent an email to     woodwork@vmb.ipfw.indiana.edu     
with its sole content being the word "UNSUBCRIBE"?           Don't put
anything else such as your name or a signature file in this message.
                                                                           
        Dave
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove "X"s from address**

James T. Curtis <jtcurtis@hotcc.com> wrote in article
<3339713B.50A8@hotcc.com>...
>
> Suzanne, rec.woodoworking is a newsgroup not a list. You don't need to
> do anything to either subscribe or to unsubscribe. Just don't click on
> it.Your news reader program will have some mechanism changing the
> default news groups. For instance, with Netscape 3.0, just remove the
> check mark from the box in front of the newsgroup title in the lefthand
> pane of the news window. 
> I hope this helps,
> Jim
> 


From lwm@genesisnetwork.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:02 EST 1997
Article: 192962 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerry Morrison <lwm@genesisnetwork.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fisheyeing
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:04:13 -0800
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Message-ID: <333B18E3.4BC5@genesisnetwork.net>
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Laura,
Fisheye occurs when applying finish materials over a surface that has
been contaminated with oil or silicone compounds. The substance creates
a surface tension around the area it occupies, not allowing the finish
material to share that space. What you end up with is a crater that
either goes partially or all the way to your substrate. It is a
persistent nasty little spot that once it shows up is near impossible to
get rid of.
  Fortunately there have been products developed which when mixed with
the finish material will break the surface tension and allow it to flow
into those areas. You can find these products at most good paint stores.
  One way to minimize the problem around a shop is to not use or at
least use very carefully any materials containing silicone. Most
commercial furniture polishes contain silicone. I have refinished
cabinets and furniture for people who believe that all wood should be
treated with that crap whether it has a finish or not and had a
miserable time with fisheye. I have done work for others and never had
even one spot show up.
  Another good source of contamination around the home is the use of
Armor All on automobiles then bringing contaminated rags or hands into a
work area or home then allowing these to be used for wiping tools or
furniture.
  When in doubt, the additive is very inexpensive compared to the time
it takes to correct the problem in the midst of a finishing project. A
good source of information about this and other finish related matters
visit the web site at 
http://www.mcn.org/MenComNet/Business/Retail/Lib/StarTechSchedules.html
they also sell the additive.

Hope this helps,
Jerry Morrison


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 12:00:04 EST 1997
Article: 192963 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!catfish2.valdosta.peachnet.edu!news
From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Belt sanders
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:06:13 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <333AE145.5EB4@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
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IbDegen2 wrote:
> 
> In article <33361C2E.516E@ibm.net>, G Potter <gpotte@IBM.NET> writes:
> 
> >
> >Any recommendations on a belt sander in the $100-130 range? Checked Deja
> >news but couldn't get much info. TIA!
> 
> I just saw a reconditioned 4" Ryobi electronic variable speed heavy duty
> belt sander in Trendlines for $150.  If I didn't already have a belt
> sander that works fine, I'd jump on the deal (I hope I don't jinx my
> trusty ol' BS).
> 
I have the same sander but in the 3" x 21" model.  It has been great!

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From ray@oakharbor.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:05 EST 1997
Article: 192964 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ray Ewing" <ray@oakharbor.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Please Help
Date: 28 Mar 1997 01:13:27 GMT
Organization: Ray's Wood Works
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I apologize for taking your time on this but I just changed internet
providers and cannot seem to receive e-mail from my daughter on the other
coast.  Would someone please e-mail as a test to see if the problem is my
internet provider or if its on my  daughters end?

Thank You,

Ray


From ericn@spiritone.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:05 EST 1997
Article: 192965 of rec.woodworking
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From: ericn@spiritone.com (Eric N.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FREE: Holly wood in Portland OR
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:15:30 -0800
Organization: SpiritOne Internet 503-240-8200
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Message-ID: <ericn-2703971715310001@max3-174.spiritone.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192965

If there are any woodworkers in the Portland area who would like a couple
of free holly wood trunks (yes - TRUNKS! - these are old puppies), please
contact me via e-mail.

I've heard this wood is prized for its whiteness and as a good material
for doing inlay work.

-Eric
ericn@spiritone.com

-- 
ericn@SpiritOne.com

Toasters? Toasters!:

http://www.spiritone.com/~ericn


From ray@oakharbor.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:07 EST 1997
Article: 192966 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ray Ewing" <ray@oakharbor.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Please send E-mail
Date: 28 Mar 1997 01:18:54 GMT
Organization: GTE Intelligent Network Services, GTE INS
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I just changed internet providers and cannot seem to receive e-mail from my
daughter on the other coast.  I don't know if it's her setup or mine. 
Please send e-mail so I can tell which setup is at fault.

Thank you.

Ray


From wood at smart.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:08 EST 1997
Article: 192967 of rec.woodworking
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From: wood@smart.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:07:17 GMT
Organization: Smartnet Internet Services [via news]
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References: <01bc368a$5b1c4f60$a6cdb7c7@steveg> <3335BCD9.381E@erols.com> <01bc38e8$e5d15280$120a60cf@micron> <33384BAB.4379@bah.com> <5he11e$cpg@access4.digex.net>
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	Yes, he has a decent selection, but is asking full price for wood
that is un-graded and dried in a "solar-kiln", basically air-dried.  I
offered to buy several hundred bf of Oak from him a year ago and was
told there was no discount and we had to pick it up on saturday
between the hours of 8am and noon.  I was frank and explained that I
thought his prices were too high considering I could get graded,
kiln-dried lumber from Tidewater/Allied, et al, for the same price
delivered.  Rather than come down he frankly told me that he makes
more than enough money selling to weekend warriors, so he didn't care.
I can respect that.

	I hear his prices are now more in line with his product, but have
not bothered calling again.  Personally, I only pay full price when
it's graded and dried.  My time is worth the extra $ I'd pay
elsewhere.

	I'd be interested in hearing from others.  Has the price dropped?
Anyone know the average moisture content?

			Pat


herveus@access4.digex.net (Michael and MJ Houghton) wrote:

>In article <33384BAB.4379@bah.com>, Charlie Rodgers  <rodgersc@bah.com> wrote:
>>David and Laura wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are there any good places SOUTH of Washington DC?  I am in S. MD and find
>>> it hard to get any nice wood/tools in my area.
>>> 
>>> David
>>
>>While I haven't personally been there, I've been told by several people 
>>that Dyson's Lumber on Rt 5 in Great Mills has a good selection of wood.  
>>Also been told that if you have access to Pax River, the wood hobby shop 
>>there is top-rate.  Rough hardwood lumber at about 1/2 the off-base price 
>>and they will plane it for only $0.10/lf.
>>HTH, Charlie
>
>Maryland Forest Products in Nanjemoy (right on the Potomac) is a small
>sawmill that sells rough cut, kiln-dried lumber. I bought some maple, beech,
>and cherry there and have been happy with it so far. He also had oak, ash,
>hickory and black walnut in stock that I know of. His price list includes
>other species including elm, gum, persimmon, birch, cedar...
>
>Michael


wood at smart<dot>net

ANTI-SPAM ALERT: put the above together to email me.


From wood at smart.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:08 EST 1997
Article: 192968 of rec.woodworking
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From: wood@smart.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Thread: Mid-Atlantic Yards, was "Baltimore Woodworkers..."
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:22:09 GMT
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	I'll second Groff & Hearne.  Great place.

	The Groff's just bought out the Hearne's (who moved out west to
build another yard) and I deal mostly with Krist, the Groff son. Real
nice place. The kinda place you could pack up a lunch for, drive over
to and just sit and jaw half the day if it's quiet.  One board or
1000, they don't care.  Take your time.  The free-form slabs in maple,
cherry, oak, and walnut seem infinite, and burls are everywhere.

	I'll let you in on a secret, too.  A certain well-known furniture
artist here in MD made a trestle table/desk out of a familiar walnut
slab.  My wife had eyed it the week before, selling for around $275.
The completed desk (trestle, you figure out how hard) was selling for
$4995.  No kidding.  Talked to the owner, who admitted he did a lot of
his shopping up at Groff & Hearne.  

	My one concern is that all of you will bring up their prices.  I
guess I'll give directions to anybody who wants them.  :)

	Up the road about 2 miles is Sandy Pond Lumber, who specialize in
figured woods of all species, but mostly maple.  And trust me, it is
divine.  It's also costly.  They're not quite so willing to let you
run around, but the hassle is worth it if you want a pile of exquisite
lumber.  If you call ahead with an order, though, you wil not be
disappointed.  

	Both yards do mail order.

				Pat


Mike Weaver <mikew@umbc.edu> wrote:

>On 22 Mar 1997, Woody wrote:
>
>> Any feedback on buying from Craftwoods in Timonium, MD?  I've been in there
>> several times and they have a good selection, but they seem to be rather
>> snobbish.  They always act like their doing me some great favor by taking
>> my money.  Anybody else get that impression?
>
>Yup...and too expensive.
>
>If you're not too far from Craftwoods, you should check out Groff & Hearne
>in Quarryville, PA.
>
>Much better prices and selection for hardwoods, and worth a trip every
>year or so just to drool over the large slabs available.
>
>I happen to live only about 35 minutes from them though. It's probably
>about an hour and a half from Craftwoods (just a guess though as I've
>never gone from one to the other)
>
>Just my $.02,
>
>	-Mike
>-----------------
>Michael P. Weaver                                     Email: mikew@umbc.edu
>Database Program Adminstrator 			      
>Center for Health Program Development and Management, UMBC, Baltimore,MD 21250
>Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine, and not my employer's.
>


wood at smart<dot>net

ANTI-SPAM ALERT: put the above together to email me.


From akerson@clark.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:10 EST 1997
Article: 192969 of rec.woodworking
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From: akerson@clark.net (Pete Akerson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
Date: 28 Mar 1997 01:39:02 GMT
Organization: Curragh builder for hire.
Lines: 7
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wood@smart.net wrote:
: 
Frisco, over in Upper Marlboro has decent rough-sawn very wet mixed oak
at around 90 cents a board foot.  Which is ideal if you want to pick
through it and slice up some for steaming. For furniture, forget it.
  Look out for the guy driving the loader, or you'll get flattened.
-P


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:11 EST 1997
Article: 192970 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Folding Game table
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:58:07 GMT
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Would like to build a folding game table.  Would anyone out there have
any ideas on how to make the folding legs.  I want to use all wood and
not use metal for this purpose.  Bolts and screws are alright for this
though.  

The table is to be just under 40 inch square or Octagon haven't
decided on this.  

Thank you.

Verne
****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From stamp@zombie.ncsc.mil Wed Apr  2 12:00:12 EST 1997
Article: 192971 of rec.woodworking
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From: stamp@zombie.ncsc.mil (Mark Stamp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Good jig saws?????
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:43:47 -0500
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Can anyone suggest a good jig saw? I was considering
the Dewalt DW321k (about $168, mail order). Any suggestions
in this price range would be most welcome. Thanks.

Mark Stamp

-- 
I am not a donkey and I don't have a field. --- Max Weber


From wood at smart.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:13 EST 1997
Article: 192972 of rec.woodworking
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From: ##wood@smart.net## (Patrick S.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sycamore lumber
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:40:57 GMT
Organization: Smartnet Internet Services [via news]
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wdjjr@bham.mindspring.com (william d. jones, jr) wrote:

>Is sycamore lumber good for woodworking ? If so, what does this cost
>per bd ft ?
>


	Hard, smelly when cut, but very nice when finished.  I've only
used quarter-sawn, wide boards (14-15 inches, not common).  Go for the
QS if you can find it.  Not oily, glues well, but tended to be a
little brittle around the edges.  Take it slow and even.

	My wife and I miss those boards (a friend got the ones we
didn't).  She made a nice humidor using the syc and some bloodwood
inlays she made herself.  I liked it so much, I won't let her get rid
of it; and neither of us has ever smoked!

	Have fun with it.
		
				Pat


wood at smart<dot>net

ANTI-SPAM ALERT: put the above together to email me.


From dkrueger@mc.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:14 EST 1997
Article: 192973 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan Krueger <dkrueger@mc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on PC nailers
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:37:49 -0600
Organization: McHenryCom
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Tom Corey wrote:
> 
> Steve Zuromski wrote:
> >
> > I'm a hobbyist who is considering the plunge to air nailers.  Everyone
> > tells me Senco is the best and the price appears to bear that out.
> > Lately I've noticed that the PC nailers are very attractively priced.
> > Has anyone had any experience with them?  Are they quality tools or
> > cheap junk?  Will they last?  Any opinions are most welcome
> > SteveZ
> 
> I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
> tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
> 
> My opinion (I dont work for them)

Unlike the rest of the Porter Cable line (electric tools), their air
tools are made in Taiwan.  In that categoy, look at the Craftsman and
Campell Hausfeld, too.  If you will use it a lot get a Bostitch or
Senco.


From jonathan@dnai.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:16 EST 1997
Article: 192974 of rec.woodworking
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From: jonathan@dnai.com (Jonathan Sachs)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:41:03 GMT
Organization: Sand River Software, Inc.
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>ideas for sawdust use... great in composting

Not exactly. While sawdust will compost eventually, its ratio of
carbon to nitrogen is extremely high. Unless you take extraordinary
measures to get the ratio back into balance, sawdust pile will
actually slow down the composing process.

The best thing you can do with sawdust is spread it where you *don't*
want things to grow... like the paths in the garden. It will break
down eventually, and then you can shovel the stuff into the planted
areas. Meanwhile it will act as an effective growth inhibitor.
- -
Jonathan Sachs
Sand River Software, Inc.


From brokearrow@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:17 EST 1997
Article: 192975 of rec.woodworking
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From: brokearrow@aol.com (BrokeArrow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fay-Eagan Woodlathe
Date: 28 Mar 1997 01:55:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I'm not sure there was one when it was new.  In the twentys they put out a
heck of a cat. I never have seen a manual for any of the machinery that I
have.
Thanks,
              Eric
brokearrow@aol.com


From XXdoutenXX@ibm.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:18 EST 1997
Article: 192976 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David Outen" <XdoutenX@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP ME UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE
Date: 28 Mar 1997 00:23:08 GMT
Organization: Home
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I have done some more digging and found the woodworking list owners name
and email address.  This I have sent by email to Suzanne so as too not
generate additional junk email for the list owner.
                                                          Dave
-- 
**if replying by e-mail remove "X"s from address**

Suzanne M. Ammann <TOASMAMMAN@AOL.COM> wrote in article
<970325002716_-1938939308@emout17.mail.aol.com>...
> I have followed the instructions given to me when I first subscribed to
this
> newsgroup to a "T" in how to unsubscribe and I keep getting my e-mail
> returned to me saying "error - no such local user".  What do I do now?
>  Please help me.  TIA  Suzanne
> 


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:00:19 EST 1997
Article: 192977 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lock Miters?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:53:49 -0500
Organization: HY Creations
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Daniel Morris DeRight wrote:
> 
>     I'm having a little trouble getting a tight fit with my lock miter
> bit and some 3/4" ply.  I know there was on article on using a lock
> miter bit in one of the big magazines in the last few months, but I
> can't remember which.  If anyone out there knows, please tell me!
> 
> ==========================
> Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu
> 
> We do not read and write simply because it is enjoyable.  We read and
> write because we are part of humanity, and humanity is its story.

Better Home and Garden Wood Magazine, February 1996 issue and the
article is on page 10.

Hope this helps you.  I had a bit of trouble getting mine set up as well
with the fence and bit height but the magazine article cleared it up for
me.

Henry


From dpcharmin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:20 EST 1997
Article: 192978 of rec.woodworking
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From: dpcharmin@aol.com (Dpcharmin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 3/16" inlay
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:09:16 GMT
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I am looking for a source for 3/16" wide inlay .  I am able to find 3/8",
but need 3/16 for an old tablel I am refinishing.

Any leads would be appreciated.

Dpcharmin@aol.com


From BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:22 EST 1997
Article: 192979 of rec.woodworking
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From: BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com (A. P. Baj orinas)
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
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Thus spoke Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com>:

]SJ14280 wrote:
]> 
]> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
]> are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
]> keyword for these cars?  Please help!


I used to love those races.

One good tip is to consider finishing the car with spray paint from
the autoparts store. The touch up spray cans are a good size, and you
can get a beautifull finish. Your kids can spray them, sand and
re-spray, end even wax them. Makes them look great and kids like it
because it is like working on a "real" car.

Not much help on speed, except maybe that a good finish has less drag.
:)


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Andrew P. Bajorinas             |     These opinions are my own and        |
| BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com|       not those of my employer.          |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|                 God bless those pagans.  (Homer Simpson)                   |
|____________________________________________________________________________|

My return address is mangled to reduce spam.



From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:23 EST 1997
Article: 192980 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:57:19 GMT
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Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com> wrote:

>bcompton wrote:
>> 
>> It seems particle board (various types) and plywood is the predominate
>> building material for cabinet boxes. Does anyone use hardwood for the
>> boxes.
>> 
>> Other than expense why use plywood or particle board if you can use the
>> real stuff?
>> 
>> I'm an amateur woodworker and would appreciate all comments.


>Hi Bill,
>For kitchen cabinet grade stuff, I doubt anyone is using hardwood
>because, as you mentioned the expense would be too great, and the labor
>would be prohibitive.  

>As far as the other reasons, plywood and other sheet goods are more
>stable, more uniform, and make better substrates for things like counter
>tops.  I guess the other thing that comes to mind is that the carcasses
>are mostly hidden behind doors and drawers, so it seems like an awful
>waste of precious hardwoods.  Kind of like framing your house in walnut,
>nice to know you used good stuff, but what's the point if fir works just
>as well, and no one will ever see it?
>-Colin


As a side note to this, I've heard guys talk about how crummy it is to
use particle board as a substrate for laminate countertops and how
they "do it right" and use ACX ply....harharhar.   Laminate
manufacturer's recommend particle board (the good stuff, not "big
flake" stuff)  under their products.  A rep once showed me a graph of
how particle board reacts to moisture and temp changes overlayed with
the same info for p-lam, they were very close.  Material moves
together, less problems down the road.  Right material for the job,
less problems for the customer who paid to have it done right.
Composite materials may not have the appeal of solid wood but I use
them whenever called for and save the solids for furniture.

Tim



From frankk@dmv.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:24 EST 1997
Article: 192981 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Frank K." <frankk@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 01:55:52 GMT
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I agree. I have read some posts that call the PC "Profile" sander the worst
"Detail" sander there is. If it were a "DETAIL" sander that might be
somewhat true, but it is a "PROFILE" sander and as such, does a decent job
on moldings, frames, etc. Things for which a "DETAIL" sander would not work
as well.

This is only my part of a nickel.
-- 
Best -- Frank




From marky@@up.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:25 EST 1997
Article: 192982 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Biscuit (Plate) Joiner to get? Ryobi?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:48:25 -0600
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As I've posted, during my research, the Ryobi did get a very positive
reveiw (they make three models, and the heavier duty, tilt fence with
steel case was teh one I'm referring to).

The DeWalt has the best (rack and pinion) fence height adjustment, and
the large, ergonomic and convenient button on the underside are great
pluses. However, the RYOBI, as I'm getting used to it, is a graet
contender. It comes with a great steel, rugged case, three bags of
sample biscuits (0, 10, 20), and the fence has the greatest range of
motion on the market. The dust chute I complained about is no worse than
the DeWalt I found: Both have rather obstructed ports withe the cast
metal inside, but the Ryobi comes with a nice dust bag/zippered. Further
more, it is only $119 at Menards.

mark (remove "X" when replying)



From woodclub1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:27 EST 1997
Article: 192983 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodclub1@aol.com (WOODCLUB1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending Wood
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:21:29 GMT
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3/8 is a bit thick for that radius. You may have to steam. I agree with
the polyurethane glue


From zajac@iquest.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:29 EST 1997
Article: 192984 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John A. Zajac" <zajac@iquest.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:16:34 GMT
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A teak dinner table had wine stains where a glass spilled between the
padded leaves covering the wood.  We took it to a store in Cincinnati
(Otmar's) to see what they could do.  It was something unbelievably
inexpensive (like $25).  They took a fine-grained sandpaper and hand sanded
the table.  Then they oiled it.  It looks beautiful.  I wouldn't have
believed it.  It probably has a lot to do with all the oils in teak which
doesn't allow the stain to penetrate too deeply.  I don't know if your
situation is the same, but it is sure worth the try.

AD <dundonal@global.co.za> wrote in article
<01bc3ae5$18ef77c0$4ea903c4@dundonal.global.co.za>...
| Fortunately your wife's pot didn't turn the wood black which would have
| indicated burning (carbon) about which little can be done without radical
| "surgery" i.e.sanding right through the mark - sometimes quite deeply.
| 
| In your case, the mark is probably caused by a molecular change in the
| sealer, which has gone from clear to white. Hopefully, you will be able
to
| get rid of this by using a VERY fine abrasive paper (180grit or finer) to
| erase the surface mark, and then re-finish the spot. "Feather" the sealer
| in to the old surface well, and you won't see the mark.
| 
| Better still, re-surface the whole table while you're about it and apply
a
| "bleached-mark resistant" POLYURETHANE sealer, and you won't even have to
| worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.
| 
| Hop this helps.
| 
| Andrew Dunn
| 
| BEN SIMPSON <OSAGECHIEF@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
| <01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default>...
| > My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
| > looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to
fix
| > the problem?
| > respond to:  osagechief@worldnet.att.net
| > 
| 



From spl1@nojunkerols.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:32 EST 1997
Article: 192985 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:28:48 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:192985

IbDegen2 wrote:
> 
> Tom Corey wrote:
> 
> >I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
> >tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
> 
> Gee, I was thinking of giving my Ryobi detail sander away (a tool I wish I
> had never bought) and getting the PC profile sander.  What have you heard,
> Tom?  Norm seemed to like it...  Any other comments on the machine?
> 
> Braun Degenshein
> San Francisco
I have to say first that I have never used this tool. I have heard the
sort of things mentioned in this thread about sandpaper wear and such.
As I said, I highly recommend PC tools so if you have a need for this
kind of tool by all means give the PC a good look.

Tom Corey


From ernfisch@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:34 EST 1997
Article: 192986 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Bridge City - III
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:33:07 -0700
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In <01bc3a6c$de8d1c40$c89e09ce@horizons>, "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com> writes:
>The 5" adjustable try square arrived yesterday.

>Well, as I noted but ignored the handle is not 1" wide, so the graduations
>along the outer edge of the blade are pretty useless (IMO). The inside

Have they changed the design?  My "handle" is 1.00025".  Closer than you can see.

>
>The little flange that pops out is another mystery. I suppose if it came
>out easily (it does not) you could use it to keep the blade flat, but I'm
>not sure why it would provide any benefit. The weight of the handle
>prevents it from laying down while in use.
>

Try loosening the little knurled nut on the side of the handle.  The little brass 
blade slides out very easily.  Then tighten the nut to lock it in place.  Not always
reliable in locking but it always slides out easily.

The little blade is very handy, not so much so on the 1.5" and 5" but try the 9" or
14" and you may like it (no I don't have them all).

ernie fisch


From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:35 EST 1997
Article: 192987 of rec.woodworking
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From: foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:45:22 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 62
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References: <19970327023000.VAA04067@ladder01.news.aol.com> <333A87D0.3F71@lucent.com> <E7pLKw.vq@perkin-elmer.com>
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These little cars need all the help they can get, and the more you do
the better off you will be.  These tips are perfectl;y legal, and have
been done to my sons car, and he placed 1st 2 years in a row....I
substituted SS rivets for the supplied axles, and polished them where
the wheel contacts them...a true round hole is a must, as well as
having an axle (button head SS rivet) that fits the wheels axle hole
without to much slop, but rotates very free *without* any sideplay or
wobble.  Take the time to tru the wheells / tires by chucking them in
a lath or Drill press and making all four the same exact sixe and
perfectly round.  If all 4 can not be made the same size get another
kit, and get four that way.  Keep the weight low and to the front or
centered equally over front and rear axles.  If design permits center
weight, if not, keep it forward as much as possible.  Make sure the
wheels and axles are perfectly aligned. Don't trust the predrilled
holes or slots.  If necessary fill and redrill these axle locations
all the same height, and location.  If one wheel has more pressure or
weight on it it will have a tendency to run left or right and drag.
Last I new graphite was still allowed.  USE IT, not OIL or grease.
Finish (they say) does help, but its not really a big player in all
reality.  I have seen kids that took the time to make sure all is
aligned and weight adjusted do nothing but use the raw block right out
of the pack and win, over a slick as teflon finished cars.  Weigh it
on a certified scale, and make it exactly 5 oz.
  Lots of luck

BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com (A. P. Baj orinas) wrote:

>Thus spoke Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com>:
>
>]SJ14280 wrote:
>]> 
>]> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
>]> are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
>]> keyword for these cars?  Please help!
>
>
>I used to love those races.
>
>One good tip is to consider finishing the car with spray paint from
>the autoparts store. The touch up spray cans are a good size, and you
>can get a beautifull finish. Your kids can spray them, sand and
>re-spray, end even wax them. Makes them look great and kids like it
>because it is like working on a "real" car.
>
>Not much help on speed, except maybe that a good finish has less drag.
>:)
>
>
>|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
>| Andrew P. Bajorinas             |     These opinions are my own and        |
>| BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com|       not those of my employer.          |
>|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
>|                 God bless those pagans.  (Homer Simpson)                   |
>|____________________________________________________________________________|
>
>My return address is mangled to reduce spam.
>

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:37 EST 1997
Article: 192988 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Plans
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:18:57 GMT
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Sounds good Rick.  Thanks

On 26 Mar 1997 15:49:01 GMT, rick@utdallas.edu (Richard M
Manderscheid) wrote:

>Fellow Woodworkers-
>
>	Since talk for the past two months or so has been about plans, I
>thought I would mention this.	
>	Workbench plans are now available on The Workbench Page!  The
>plans are in blueprint format, and depict the traditional face + tail vise
>arrangement.  Check 'em out.
>
>thanks for the time,
>
>-Rick Manderscheid
>
>The Workbench Page <http://www.utdallas.edu/~rick>
>

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:38 EST 1997
Article: 192989 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Woodworker Router Table
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:18:50 GMT
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I use a Ryobi that does this but don't they all.  Go to a shop and try
them by handling same.  Very easy to use.  Get one with a screw
control for table routing though.  Most new models have same.  This
gives more accurate control.

Verne

On 26 Mar 1997 17:05:07 GMT, boneified@aol.com (Boneified) wrote:

>Hi y'all,
>
>I fear this may have been asked & answered, however can anyone suggest a
>2.5hp or higher plunge router "with a plunge lock that can remain in the
>unlocked position" as the article indicates?
>
>Thanks!!!!
>
>Jerry

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:39 EST 1997
Article: 192990 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router size
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:19:05 GMT
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2 to 3 hp plunge with micro adjuster.  Ryobi etc.

Verne

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 18:21:15 -0600, Gregory Rohow
<gprohow@pressenter.com> wrote:

>What is the best all around size[hp] router for hobbie woodworking?
>
>What size[hp] router is best when using shaper bits?

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From spl1@nojunkerols.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:39 EST 1997
Article: 192991 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bridgewood tools
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:02:06 -0500
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I saw some equipment from Bridgewood at a recent show. The prices looked
reasonable. Is this stuff any good?


From rodgersc@bah.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:40 EST 1997
Article: 192992 of rec.woodworking
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From: Charlie Rodgers <rodgersc@bah.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Woodworking Series
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:43:56 -0800
Organization: Booz-Allen & Hamilton
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Michael and MJ Houghton wrote:
> 
> In article <5gajci$352@bartlett.televar.com>,
> John Schneider  <jackfir@televar.com> wrote:
> >I have an ad for the Time Life Woodworking series. Is there anyone out there that has
> >purchased it. Is it as good as advertized? I have learned a great deal by reading about my
> >favorite hobby and would like to learn more. Some of the router jigs in the advertisement
> >have save me some real headaches even in the last two days.
> >John;  
I ordered them around the middle of January, after seeing an ad on HGTV.
  I called the 800 number and opted for the 9 or 10 volume set (I got a 
"free" 101-tips pamphlet and a hour-long videotape).  There was some kind 
of discount by ordering all of them at once (I bit), and I think the total 
was right around US$160.  I was really disappointed when, a few weeks later,
 I got a postcard that they were on back order "because of the unexpected 
large response to the ad".  They came in the mail about two weeks ago.  
  The videotape is very informative.  There are four segments on it: one is 
Frank Klausz showing how to hand cut dovetails.  Another is Mike Dunbar 
showing how to reclaim and tune up an old flea-market hand plane.  Another 
is Truini (don't remember his first name) showing router tips & tricks and 
the fourth is a fellow (sorry I don't recall his name) showing how to build
 and use a couple of table saw jigs - one jig is a sliding cut-off box and 
another jig is a finger joint jig.  I don't know about anyone else, but I 
can understand a whole lot better when I actually see something than I can 
trying to visualize from the written word - especially if it is explaining 
how to build something.  
  I don't recall the exact titles but there are separate volumes that cover
 each of the following topics:  Wood Finishes; Shop Jigs (I think I'll get 
a lot of use from this one); Joinery (this one, too); Power Tools; 
Encyclopaedia of Wood; Cabinetmaking; The Home Shop; Routers; and a couple 
more I can't remember.  They are nice hardback covers with internal spiral 
bindings that lay flat.  Lots of good pictures and clear drawings.  One 
thing I have noticed 'tho, is that they tend to put in sidebars with tips 
& tricks and these are repeated in various volumes.  The topics are, in 
their defense, appropriate to the subject matter.  
  All in all, I think I got my money's worth.  Should you buy them?  
That's for you to decide.  I'm always trying to find better ways to do 
things, and there are a lot of suggestions in the books.  
  I think they have a money-back guarantee, so you can take a "free" look 
at them.  Personally, I never even considered returning them.  
HTH, Charlie


From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:42 EST 1997
Article: 192993 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:03:02 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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Tom Perigrin writes
>... So we will see a whole bunch of
> people making mediochre cabinetry which will fall apart in a few years.  

It's been more than "a few years" since Norm's first shows were aired. 

Anyone built one of Norm's designs and have it "fall apart?"


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Just say Just wondering.

Opinions are mine alone.


From bigchris@pagesz.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:43 EST 1997
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From: bigchris@pagesz.net
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Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
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IbDegen2 wrote:
> 
> Tom Corey wrote:
> 
> >I own a number of Porter-Cable tools and highly recommend them. The only
> >tool I have heard bad things about is the profile sander.
> 
> Gee, I was thinking of giving my Ryobi detail sander away (a tool I wish I
> had never bought) and getting the PC profile sander.  What have you heard,
> Tom?  Norm seemed to like it...  Any other comments on the machine?
> 
> Braun Degenshein
> San Francisco

Yeah Tom, what's the beef?  My PC profile sander has been working
flawlessly almost every day for about 4 months!

Chris


From jcook@utw.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:44 EST 1997
Article: 192995 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:33:32 -0600
From: jcook@utw.com
Subject: Re: Oak door refinishing
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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I have mahagony doors from 1931 with 3 layers of paint.  I finally found
out that back then they often used shellac with an amber tint.	I fount
that a heat gun applied to the paint took the paint off easily because
the shellac melts and releases the paint.  Shellac comes off well with
denatured alcohol and scotch brite pad (green) (about 600 grit ).  Get
the green pads ast a janitorial supply house and plan on about a gallon
of denatured alcohol per door.	About $5.00 gal.  I've even used a pad
more agressive than the green and it works well.  Keep it wet and wipe
black crap up with paper towels.

I don't know how I'm refinishing them yet.


In article <859342185.25406@dejanews.com>,
  sasjr@flash.net wrote:
>
> I recently tried to refinish an internal oak door. One side was already
> varnished but the other was painted. I stripped the paint and found a dark
> (almost black )stain. I tried to remove the stain with wood bleach. I
> finally sanded the stain off with a very course sandpaper. The door looked
> ok until I put a clear gloss varnish on it. Evidently I did not get all
> the stain out because the door got blochy with dark black spots. Any
> suggestions on fixing the problem? I would like a light oak finish.
>
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:45 EST 1997
Article: 192996 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:43:50 GMT
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> I've used both models of the detail sander that Ryobi makes (I know, I
> know, RYOBI). Anyway, both were absolutely worthless IMO

I purchased the Bosch and it works. But I have a general anti-Bosch
feeling, so..

I purchased the legendary Fein, and the PC profile sander. Neither have
many miles on them. Sharing the dislike of sanding in general, and detail
sanding in particular.

My first experience with the Fein was not good. It does not come with dust
collection as standard equipment (?!) and the paper clogged so readily that
the machine ground serious grooves in the stock.

I then slowed it down and we are now good friends. The cord is a mile long,
it's heavy but not nearly as tiring to hold over a long haul, I think it
doesn't vibrate as much. I picked up the H&L pads for it. Also, it does
indeed have plenty of power.

The PC is really to untried in my shop for me to give a real opinion, but
the lateral motion of the head should make a difference in a few key
situations. The PSA tape sticks pretty well to the heads, but I need to get
some finer grit.



From vern268@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:46 EST 1997
Article: 192997 of rec.woodworking
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From: vern268@aol.com (Vern268)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scrollsaw Patterns
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:47:24 GMT
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Can anyone tell me where I can get some patterns for schrollsaw work?

If you have any to share, please send!!

Thanks!!

Please email me at Vern268@aol.com

:)


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:47 EST 1997
Article: 192998 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Picnic table plans, help please
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:45:38 GMT
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I've found the best place to get plans for relatively simple projects like
picnic tables, sandboxes, etc. is your local library.  Best of all, they're
free!
-- 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com

> Could someone please point me in the right direction for some plans.
> Nothing fancy, just a nice classic style table for the deck. Email of
> plans would be great or a tel number to get me started.
> 
> Thanks, Glenn
> merrick@litle.net
> 


From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:48 EST 1997
Article: 192999 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Cordless Drill???
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:42:36 -0800
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Jamie Barnes wrote:
> 
> I'm new to this newsgroup, 

Welcome aboard...hope ya stay.

> so if this has been discussed previously I
> apologize.

Go check http://www.dejanews.com and do a search in rec.woodworking for
'cordless drill'  It has been discussed extensively.

> I'm going to buy a cordless drill in the next few weeks. I'm
> having a house built so I'm going to use it for obvious things like hanging
> mini blinds, shelves, etc. I'm also going to go in after the subfloors are
> put down and screw in the floors to prevent squeaks. I'm considering buying
> a 12V DeWalt. Partially because two of my buddies also have 12V DeWalts and
> I could borrow their battery packs if I ever needed to. I've also looked at
> Mikita, Bosch, and a couple of others. Any experiences, positive or
> negative, would be appreciated.

I just went down the path you are on.  I have been looking at them for
about three months, and I decided to go with the Panasonic.  The ergonomics
are incredible...the drill feels *perfect* in use.  And the price just 
dropped to $179 from any of the big mail order joints...I bought mine from
Tools On Sale.  Tool Crib has the same price (but I don't do business with
them), and other joints oughta have the same deal.

Your point about battery packs is valid...it is also valid if you are gonna
buy other cordless toys^H^H^H^H tools in the future and wanna share battery
packs betwixt those tools, or you just wanna reduce the number of chargers
on your bench...in that case, the Dewalt or Makita options both seem valid.
I like the DeWalt (it was my second choice), and the new Makita seems nice
as well.  I haven't fondled the new PC drills, but you may wish to.

I personally don't like the Bosch.  I used one for a neiborhood light 
construction project, and it drove me crazy...I noticed that I would wait 
for a DeWalt or Panasonic to become available rather than use the Bosch, 
and if both the Panasonic and a DeWalt were available, I would walk farther 
to pick up the Panasonic than the DeWalt...so that spoke volumes to me. 
YMMV.  

That being the case, I think the DeWalt is a nice tool.  I doubt 
that you would regret buying one.  However, I doubt that you will
ever feel the need to borrow a battery pack from your buddy if you
have two...the DeWalt charger will recharge in an hour (15 min charger
is available...Panasonic has 15 minute charger std), and if you wear
out a bettery in less than an hour, you are prolly working hard enough
to deserve a few moments rest...

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From scubaman@mhv.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:49 EST 1997
Article: 193000 of rec.woodworking
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From: scubaman@mhv.net (Richard Kleinhenz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
Date: 27 Mar 1997 01:23:52 GMT
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In message <19970324.190230.DRIEGLE@vunet.vinu.edu> - Daryle Riegle
<DRIEGLE@VUNET.VINU.EDU> writes:
:>
:>Should I believe that the 16 inch or 18 inch Grizzly bandsaw
:>are the best saws on the market? What kind of problems can
:>I expect? I could use some advice before spending lots of
:>money.

I have the 16" and am quite happy with it.  I *DID* have to spend some
time and effort to get it running nicely.  Grizzly exchanged several
parts till I got a nasty vibration out which turned out to be a bent
lower axle.  Motor, wheels.  The exchanges worked very well, they issued
call tags to UPS and sent replacements expeditiously.  I also had to do
some filing to take some slop out of the blade guide.  After all was
said and done, the machine is very nice!  YOu have 1 year to get all the
bugs worked out!

Regards,

Rich




From scubaman@mhv.net Wed Apr  2 12:00:50 EST 1997
Article: 193001 of rec.woodworking
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From: scubaman@mhv.net (Richard Kleinhenz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
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In message <19970324.190230.DRIEGLE@vunet.vinu.edu> - Daryle Riegle
<DRIEGLE@VUNET.VINU.EDU> writes:
:>
:>Should I believe that the 16 inch or 18 inch Grizzly bandsaw
:>are the best saws on the market? What kind of problems can
:>I expect? I could use some advice before spending lots of
:>money.

Forgot to add: I've heard it said many times that their 18" saw is
nowhere near as nice as their 16" model.  BTW, the 16" I was talking
about was the 1073, not the newer direct drive model.

Regards,

Rich




From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:51 EST 1997
Article: 193002 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:53:30 GMT
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> I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret
later
> on.

I'd like to argue against that for just a minute. Getting beyond some
subjective design considerations.

There are several sources for ready made router table tops that are cost
competitive and ready to roll. Actually quite a wide variety. Considering
the cost of a sheet of laminate material here ($30) and a sheet of ? MDF or
particle board ($20) for a few dollars more you can have a top ready to fly
- including the insert plate ($12..$20). Obviously I'm assuming you don't
have these materials already, and that you'd buy them new & complete.

Anyway, a good reference for parts & ideas can be found in the Woodhaven
catalog - just about any router gizmo under the sun. Also the AW router
table modified by Norm seems to be popular, although I'm not a fan of the
raising mechanism. But who am I to judge ? I've not seen it in action.

It surely would help if you knew what you wanted in a plate beforehand and
what type of fence you're planning on. I have an assortment of incra-jig
attachments all the way to their new fence, which I don't recommend.
However, I'm a big fan of the incra-jig (pro) and would not consider a
router table without it or something very much like it.

Many also make their own "shaper style" fences.


From rerahenna@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:52 EST 1997
Article: 193003 of rec.woodworking
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From: rerahenna@aol.com (RERAHENNA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Moisture Curing Adhesive?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:58:00 GMT
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Excell:  available in Woodworkers Supply,  and I think another brand is
PLC, available at your nearest treated lumber plant.  The ultimate is 3M
5200 at your nearest boating supply house.  Overtons Catalogue, Greenville
NC.  5200 psi and cures underwater.


From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:54 EST 1997
Article: 193004 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot melt glue guns
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:52:33 -0800
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Phil Rose wrote:
> 
> In article <01bc360a$dd0079a0$e83618cb@paul.gobal.net.au>, "Paul"
> <paul@mail.global.net.au> wrote:
> 
> > Can any one tell me if there is various glue types
> > available for these guns and if so are they suitable
> > for woodworking projects.......thanks in advance .
> 
> (1) yes
> (2) what kind of woodworking projects? Usually hot glue is considered a
> temporary bond--especially if the joint is subject to stress.

I violently agree.  I call my little pistol shaped gizmo my "hot not-glue
gun", and the stuff that oozes from it "not-glue".  It is amazing stuff
for temporary bonds, and the fact that it is temporary is a real plus
for the types of things that it is really useful for.  It's pretty handy
to be able to not-glue a template to a piece of stock, and then knock it
loose with a sharp blow...it's almost as useful as carpet tape...but
I don't use carpet tape for permanent joinery either...

It's pretty handy for holding together jigs until you can run a few
screws into 'em , too.

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:55 EST 1997
Article: 193005 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 04:09:02 GMT
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On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:41:34 -0600, mcornfor@mspo3.med.utmb.edu wrote:

> Because I
>despise detail sanding so much, I'd be willing to buy a Fein, if someone
>could convince me the extra cash was worth it.

I delayed buying one for years.  Last  summer bought the Fein VS for
$199 less 10% from Trendlines and it's worth the cost, IMO. dcr


From rerahenna@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:55 EST 1997
Article: 193006 of rec.woodworking
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From: rerahenna@aol.com (RERAHENNA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Moisture Curing Adhesive?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 04:06:01 GMT
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Properties of moisture curing adhesives:  Expands instead of contracts. 
More expensive than tite-bond II.  Great for treated lumber porch railing
and stiles.  Glued joints twist less and makes extremely tight unit. 
Great stuff, buy some and experiment with all applications,  some of the
strongest adheasive i've ever worked with.



From maruoka@itsa.ucsf.edu Wed Apr  2 12:00:57 EST 1997
Article: 193007 of rec.woodworking
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From: maruoka@itsa.ucsf.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source for Power Switches?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 03:54:15 GMT
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I think Grizzley sells power switches.


Joe Enduser <firstname.lastname@ab.com> wrote:

>Dan,

>The latest catalog from delta (the production tools 
>one) has the power switches listed in the back.  
>However, being from delta you will need to get a 
>line of credit on your house first.  Just something 
>to look into.


>Mark



>mark.ruetty@ab.com




From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:58 EST 1997
Article: 193008 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: 28 Mar 1997 04:02:03 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193008

American Woodworker #44 has a great router table plan.  This plan is also
the basis of Norm's router table.  You can buy a video and plans for
Norm's.  You can get the address at the end of his show.
-- 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com

FP1 <fp1@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970327162400.LAA17122@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret
later
> on.
> If you have any good tips/plans for a homemade router table please let me
> know.
> Thanks
> Frankie
> 


From brian@nbnet.nb.ca Wed Apr  2 12:00:58 EST 1997
Article: 193009 of rec.woodworking
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From: "BRIAN" <brian@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UNIMAT LATHES
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:53:53 GMT
Organization: University of New Brunswick
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DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A MOTOR FOR MY MARK 3 
LATHE . THEY WANT $150 TO REWIND IT . GREAT FOR TURNING SMALL ITEMS

THANKS BRIAN


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:00:59 EST 1997
Article: 193010 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water-based stain on veneer?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 04:08:05 GMT
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I'm about to tackle my first try with veneer on a tabletop.  Should I worry
that a water-based stain will make my veneer totally warp and buckle? (fyi:
mahogany veneer)
-- 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com


From cericc@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:00 EST 1997
Article: 193011 of rec.woodworking
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From: cericc@aol.com (Cericc)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman table saw converted into cast i
Date: 28 Mar 1997 04:12:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<While maybe impractical, did anyone ever look
at the feasibility of using the cast iron table from an old Craftsman
tablesaw, and converting it into a router table?>>

 
I used a "seconds"  table saw top that I got at the Grizzly  showroom. The
top  was .005 low on one corner. I was only going to use  1/2 for a router
table so it was OK. The under side of the top was ground down ( ribs
flattened) with a makita angle grinder. That went pretty fast. Then I
carefully located the holes, drilled and countersunk for flathead screws
and mounted the router. A thin shim was needed to make the "spindle"
perfectly  square to the top.
Then I made a base to fit. If you dont look too closely it looks just like
a 3hp shaper.
  You have to make your own insert and I don't think there is enough room
for one of those big (3 1/2") panel raisers. I don't use them so it's OK
for me.


From francesrecknor@sprintmail.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:01 EST 1997
Article: 193012 of rec.woodworking
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From: "frances recknor" <francesrecknor@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Inca vs Shopsmith Bandsaw: One and the same????
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:56:01 GMT
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
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I finally decided that an Inca is the Bandsaw to get. But, having looked at
the pictures/specs of the Shopsmith I was amazed at the similarities
between both. They seemed to have the same dimensions, specs and weights.
The Shopsmith's table is a bit larger and, of course, the motor (it has
none of its own) will be that of the Mark V with VS so it would have a lot
more power than that of the Inca. the good news is that it is (the SS) is a
$100 cheaper!! Of course you needed to have the Mark V first! 

Am I missing something?? 



From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:02 EST 1997
Article: 193013 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:41:37 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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T Austin writes
> In article <19970324.190230.DRIEGLE@vunet.vinu.edu>, Daryle Riegle
> <DRIEGLE@VUNET.VINU.EDU> wrote:
> > Should I believe that the 16 inch or 18 inch Grizzly bandsaw
> > are the best saws on the market? What kind of problems can
> > I expect? I could use some advice before spending lots of
> > money.
> 
> No, but I don't think they claim to be the best on the market. 

Well, they do claim the 16" is the best 16" currently being made, but
that could be because no-one else is making a 16" saw!

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Just say American Airlines, however, wins the means-nothing ad campaign with:
         "Doing what we do best," which does not mean the American Airlines
         is the best at what they do, just that of all the things they do,
         they've chosen to do the one they do best at, which is true: I'm
         sure they fly better than they drive tractor-trailers.

Opinions are mine alone


From nt7t@teleport.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:03 EST 1997
Article: 193014 of rec.woodworking
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From: nt7t@teleport.com (Jim Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:41:44 GMT
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On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:12:29 GMT, JPATTEN%SPF.DNET@GPO.NSC.COM wrote:

>
>Michael,
snip
>  I haven't read the FWW article yet, but from seeing the Moser Furniture
>they take short dovetail shaped blocks(~ 2 or 3 inches long) and screw 
>them into the side of the cabinet varying amount of blocks depending on
>how wide or deep the cabinet is, then the slide the molding onto the
>dovetail blocks.  They then take and put a screw in from the inside of 
>the cabinet to the front of the molding or near the miter.  Since they 
>I believe oil and wax their furniture, you can see the top about an 
>1/8 of an inch shorter than the molding in winter and the same length 
>as the molding in summer.
>
>    - Jon

I have run into a similar cross grain situation with wooden drawer
glides in jewelry boxes.  I am using maple glides dove tailed into a
walnut box with a sliding dovetail.  I glue the front of the glide and
let the back run.  The box is only about 8 or 9 inches deep.  The 
grain in the side of the box is vertical.

Is this over kill?  I would rather glue the glide front and back but
am worried about expansion.

Jim


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:01:04 EST 1997
Article: 193015 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning waterstone
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:23:40 -0600
Organization: Houston Area League of PC Users
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To: "Victor G. Baron" <vbaron@lafn.org>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193015

Victor G. Baron wrote:
> 
> I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
> screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
> roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
> and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
> combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
> the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
> sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? It just happened
> this evening so I haven't had time to try anything. Had several ideas
> on my own tho,
> 1) Just let it soak in water
> 2) Use waterless hand cleaner to dissolve the gunk and let the water
> float it away
> 3) Lap the stone on glass with ??? grit wet/dry paper
> 
> Any thoughts? Hopefully I haven't ruined the stone. Sure like the edge
> it puts on a plane iron.
> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Vic Baron
The fine side of my waterstones usally look awful.  If you really think
it must be cleaned I would go with the glass plate & wet dry sandpaper.
Thats what I do when my stones need to be flattened and thats the only
time there totally pristine.

Good Luck
Buzz


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:01:05 EST 1997
Article: 193016 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lock Miters?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:29:54 -0600
Organization: Houston Area League of PC Users
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193016

Daniel Morris DeRight wrote:
> 
>     I'm having a little trouble getting a tight fit with my lock miter
> bit and some 3/4" ply.  I know there was on article on using a lock
> miter bit in one of the big magazines in the last few months, but I
> can't remember which.  If anyone out there knows, please tell me!
> 
> ==========================
> Dan DeRight          sodapop@cmu.edu
> 
> We do not read and write simply because it is enjoyable.  We read and
> write because we are part of humanity, and humanity is its story.

It was in one of the last two FWW.
Buzz


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:06 EST 1997
Article: 193017 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: laquars
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 04:57:28 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) wrote:

;Michael John Hide writes
;> Just wondering , are laguars in the same family as jaguars or are
they
;> more similar to the lion type of things?
;>                                       mjh

;Ah, the punctuation and capitalization challenged making fun of the
;spelling challenged. Good show, Dr. Jekyll.

;- Bennett Leeds
;bennett@adobe.com

;Opinions are mine alone.

Still smarting eh....................mjh



From mfedock1@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:08 EST 1997
Article: 193018 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Fedock <mfedock1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fingerprints
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:49:59 -0800
Organization: Michael Fedock Esq.
Lines: 24
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Tom Perigrin wrote:
> 
> In article <19970327014201.UAA00549@ladder01.news.aol.com>, dj1o1@aol.com
> (DJ1O1) wrote:
> >
> > I installed a new(unfinished) wood door. The kids put lots of fingerprints
> > on it, and I need some suggestions on how to remove the fingerprints
> > before I urethane it. Any ideas will be appreciated. Please E-mail
> > answers.
> 
> Take 220 sandpaper, fold it around blocks of wood, hand it to the lil'
> monsters, and make them sand them out.
> 
> Tom
> 
> ------
> 
> Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
> extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
> address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
> address.

First, are you certain that the fingerprints were not planted there by 
the LAPD?


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:01:08 EST 1997
Article: 193019 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spawn of my Loins!
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:45:42 -0600
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LEE WARD wrote:
> 
> I think makin yer own designs is kewl too! but too bad if ya design
> a 10lb load bearing shelf and stick 50 or 100 lbs on it,,I make my own
> stuff and some is very far out-but since i dunno those rules for
> structural support or engineering factors i try to go wayyyyyyyyy beyond
> what i believe is needed..I get the wood for free so thats not a factor.
> One factor i think folks overlook is Making good use of Wall studs for
> building Corner Cabinets to hold entertainment centers and uses of
> wallstuds in bldg Bunk beds and anything that can be structurally
> enhanced by them..........
>                              LW
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
> 
>          20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
Its about damn time somebody spoke up for the lowly wall stud!  I never
leave home without mine - one half is behind the the truck seat the
other half hangs on the gun rack.  Never no when your gonna need to
fight off a fearsome armadillo or open that beer can with the
recalcitrant pop top or fight off a horde of lust filled amazon
women...........

Buzz


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:09 EST 1997
Article: 193020 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Save the Trees! Wipe Your Butt with Spotted Owls!
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:40:04 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
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sumbody@nowhere.com wrote:

Most any owl should do, they'll end up spotted anyway.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From ceyoung@gte.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:11 EST 1997
Article: 193021 of rec.woodworking
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From: Clyde Young <ceyoung@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:54:51 -0800
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Mix the sawdust and melted wax until it becomes a thick moldable paste 
then form into small balls, squares, or cubes. Use it to start campfires, 
logs in the fireplace, or charcoal in a grill.

-- 
C.Young


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:12 EST 1997
Article: 193022 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:50:59 -0800
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Robert Crable wrote:
> 
> In article <5he9pa$1j9s$1@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>, d89con3@austin.ibm.com
> says...
> >
> >
> >Is there a newsgroup that discusses electric motor repair?  I just
> >bought an old Walker-Turner sanding center from my uncle.  I took
> >apart the motor to clean it up and found that the shielded bearings
> >feel "dry".  Can shielded bearings be regreased?  If so, how and
> >with what type of grease?  Or do they need to be replaced?
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >Greg Vrana
> >d89con3@austin.ibm.com
> 
> Greg,
>   Unless you're really hoping to pinch a penny, it's not worth trying to
> lube them, especially since you already have the motor apart.  Order new
> ones to fit.  Try Grainger  800-722-3291.  You'll find most of their
> bearings are $10 to $20 range, pretty cheap if you consider the cost of a
> new motor.  Just get the numbers off the bearings and let them cross
> reference them for you.  If you really are hoping to save some money, and
> a little time now, I usually put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil in the
> bearings.  They'll last a while, but if you feel any spots that "catch",
> pitch it and get a new one.
>   Bob Crable
>   Engineering Aide
>   Research Instruments Electronics Shop
>   Chemistry Department
>   The Pennsylvania State University

I agree, but before you pitch them away, make sure you can get
replacements. I own a Walker Turner lathe, and the spindle bearings were
an OEM special item, and no longer available in less than 1000 units. I
have no idea if other W-T tools are like this.

If you do cross reference the bearings, ask for sealed instead of
shielded. They will hold grease and keep out dust permanently.

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com

**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:13 EST 1997
Article: 193023 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 05:14:32 GMT
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nt7t@teleport.com (Jim Jones) wrote:

;On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:12:29 GMT, JPATTEN%SPF.DNET@GPO.NSC.COM wrote:

;>
;>Michael,
;snip
;>  I haven't read the FWW article yet, but from seeing the Moser
Furniture
;>they take short dovetail shaped blocks(~ 2 or 3 inches long) and
screw 
;>them into the side of the cabinet varying amount of blocks depending
on
;>how wide or deep the cabinet is, then the slide the molding onto the
;>dovetail blocks.  They then take and put a screw in from the inside
of 
;>the cabinet to the front of the molding or near the miter.  Since
they 
;>I believe oil and wax their furniture, you can see the top about an 
;>1/8 of an inch shorter than the molding in winter and the same
length 
;>as the molding in summer.
;>
;>    - Jon

;I have run into a similar cross grain situation with wooden drawer
;glides in jewelry boxes.  I am using maple glides dove tailed into a
;walnut box with a sliding dovetail.  I glue the front of the glide
and
;let the back run.  The box is only about 8 or 9 inches deep.  The 
;grain in the side of the box is vertical.

;Is this over kill?  I would rather glue the glide front and back but
;am worried about expansion.

;Jim
I had totally forgotten the obvious joint for the top/side ,of a
carcase which is the secret dovetail .
Many English carcase pieces that are cracked  are a result of bad
repair techniques .
The top ,bottom ,and sides are generally dovetailed together,which
allows everything to move together .the drawers are designed similarly
The drawer runners are usually housed in dados and kept in plce by
"dustboards" [and not glued in ].In many instances the dustboard warp
so the repairman often cuts them out and glues the runners in which
usually ends up cracking the sides o the carcase.
mjh 



From holleymj@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:13 EST 1997
Article: 193024 of rec.woodworking
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From: holleymj@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 05:05:51 GMT
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Christopher Raymond wrote:
>p.s.  I'm guessing here, but I think the dual capacitor motor is only
>helpful for startup - the caps are switched out of the circuit once the
>motor is up to speed.  Anybody know for sure?

Here is my Delta CS motor FAQ

A single phase induction motor uses the start capacitor to produce the 90
degree phase shift for a second winding in the motor. The motor acts like
a two phase motor until it reaches about 75% of full speed when the
centrifugal switch opens and removes the start capacitor (and second
winding). If the centrifugal switch is stuck open (or the capacitor is
bad) the motor will not start until you spin it up by hand. (This maybe OK
on a drill press but don’t try this on a table saw.) A Capacitor-start
motor can provide a starting torque 3 to 4 times the full load torque.
(Fractional horsepower motors may not require this torque so they may use
other starting methods.)

The Delta CS has a Capacitor-start Capacitor-run motor, you can see the
two capacitors on the side of the motor. In this type of motor the second
winding is never disconnected from the power line. Both capacitors are
connected for starting but when the motor reaches 75% speed only one
capacitor is disconnected. The smaller run capacitor as always connected
the second winding. A Capacitor-run motor has a higher efficiency and a
higher pull-out torque than a motor with just Capacitor-start. The power
factor is nearly 100%.

This may not be the gospel but I did study motors and generators under
Father Wood at Seattle University. I pray that I got this right.

Michael Holley










From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:14 EST 1997
Article: 193025 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: QUESTION???????????????????????????????????
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:14:09 -0500
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does any one know where i can find any good woodworking software?????


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:01:15 EST 1997
Article: 193026 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodhaven Sliding Cut-off Box
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:05:27 -0600
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<EDIT>
> And for what it's worth, I made my own cut off sled too...just used oak
> for the runners...waxed 'em, and it works great.  But I'm in SoCal, and
> don't really have humidity concerns...YMMV.  If I'm trying to cut something
> square, I use the cutoff sled, as it's more accurate than a miter guage.
> Definitely worth building.
> 
> Later.
> Steve.
> --
> "Buy the best, and only cry once."

OK I give up what does "YMMV" stand for?  And humidity is factor - I
live in a swamp AKA Houston TX.  My first box had waxed oak runners also
- worked great on the two dry days we have a year, otherwise it was
pretty useless.

Buzz


From mikef@sky.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:16 EST 1997
Article: 193027 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Mike Fairleigh" <mikef@sky.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dewalt CMS
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:44:10 GMT
Organization: Mike Fairleigh
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Depends on where you're located.  Here in Kansas City, that would be a good
price for retail.  But I've read lots of posts from people in the southeast
and east where they were able to get it at HD and others for well under
$300.
-- 
Mike
mikef@sky.net

"If you're not a liberal by the time you're 20, you have no heart;
 If you aren't a conservative by the time you're 40, you have no brain."

                                              - Winston Churchill

Daniel A. Strockis <strockid@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote in article
<Pine.HPP.3.95.970327072123.28199B-100000@river.it.gvsu.edu>...
>      I am interested in purchaxing the Dewalt CMS and I was wondering if
> $348 is a high price for this saw...no accessories.  this is the price at
> the Home Depot.  Does this sound like a good buy or can i find it cheaper
> somewhere else?
> 
> 
>                                    Thanks
> 
>                                             Dan
> 
> 

X-no-archive: yes



From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:17 EST 1997
Article: 193028 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: jigaws
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:12:20 -0500
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i am considering buying a jigsaw does anyone know what would be the 
best kind of jigsaw of a reasonable price?


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:18 EST 1997
Article: 193029 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: patterns of woodworking
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:10:04 -0500
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does anyone know where any sites where i can download patterns?
please E-MAIL ME Alan Bender 
ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:19 EST 1997
Article: 193030 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: patterns
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does anyone know where any sites where i can download patterns?
please E-MAIL ME Alan Bender 
ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:20 EST 1997
Article: 193031 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: please help me
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does anyone know where any sites where i can download patterns?
please E-MAIL ME Alan Bender 
ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:21 EST 1997
Article: 193032 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: jigsaw question??????????????
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:13:06 -0500
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i am considering buying a jigsaw does anyone know what would be the 
best kind of jigsaw of a reasonable price? 
please e-mail me ebender@erols.com


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:23 EST 1997
Article: 193033 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bridge City III
Date: 28 Mar 1997 05:16:43 GMT
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The order continues to trickle in, most recent arrival was the AS-5,
adjustable try-square.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to return it (if possible). However, what I
expected and what *you* might expect are completely different.

What I was hoping to find was a decent replacement for my Starrett
double-square. An otherwise wonderful tool that's hard to read (for my
eyes). I find the combination squares inconvenient at times due to the
head. The double square was just the right size and weight to be very handy
most of the time.

According to the catalog description of the family of adjustable try
squares, not only are they calibrated to .001", but the graduations can be
used to measure height. And the pop out slide stop allows for "hands free"
operation of the square.

I saw the specifications but was not paying attention. As the handle is
less than 1" thick, the outside graduations have no reference point, other
than the inside face of the blade. The 1" mark on the outside edge actually
sits at the 0" point on the inside edge, the 2" mark at the 1", etc.
However, because the handle is less than 1" thick, the 1" mark isn't 1"
away from anything, except the 2" mark. 

Again, don't flame me because of this, as I said I wasn't paying attention.
What you cannot do is use the outside graduations to measure something like
depth of cut on a router table for instance. That is, you can't set the
square down, with the blade sticking up in the air and measure anything. 

As for the slide stop, it sticks. But no matter, as it does not work as
advertised. The weight of the blade is not enough to hold the handle, as it
is in the picture. Again, the picture is not the AS-5, but the AS-14. The
AS-5 sports the same slide stop, so I assumed it was there for the same
reason. I have no idea what it's for.

As for +/- .001", well it shipped +/- .002" and quite frankly either case
is pretty darn good, certainly well within any tolerances I'd ever need. No
big deal.

I've wondered often why a try square wasn't graduated, and was hoping that
the BC square would fit size & measuring needs. At $85, it cost me less
than the Starrett will end up costing, but the Starrett will be able to do
what I hoped for and will cost more only because the satin chrome blade is
special order.




From discgolf@citilink.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:23 EST 1997
Article: 193034 of rec.woodworking
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From: Cyclone <discgolf@citilink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planer Company that makes double-sided planers? ! ?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:27:56 -0600
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Does anyone know of a company that makes a professional 2 sided planer
(15" - 18"?) in the $1000 - $3000 range? I'm talking about a finish
planer, 15 - 25 fpm or so.

Thanks


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:24 EST 1997
Article: 193035 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 28 Mar 1997 05:32:16 GMT
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Teddy:

As you know, rec.woodworking is like going to several different doctors for
the same bug and getting several different answers.

For the Ryobi, I've seen several posts by happy users, but also several
posts about the unit being able to hold it's settings, and just generally
being a PITA to keep in tune. However, it cuts wood.

For the Grizzley, more of the crap-shoot. Again many happy customers, many
not so happy. I've seen good reports on their service however, closer to
Jet for the imports than other dealers. However, it cuts wood.

For the Unisaw. Anybody telling you that it's not a good saw must have an
alterior motive. Not going to argue "best" here, but as mentioned, the
unisaw is the benchmark against which all others of it's class are
measured. It cuts wood too.

In terms of overall value, a unisaw - especially in the same price range -
is impossible to beat. Beyond service - which will vary from person to
person (these still are human beings), you've got a whole entire world of
add-on accessories designed to work with the unisaw "standard", from
zero-clearance plates to after market fences. These are easy to find, often
locally.

Further, if you get the "bug", eventually you'll *want* a unisaw, even if
you never get there. These things you'd find out as you work more and more.
I don't have the unisaw, but the PM66. And in spite of my continued
reservations about the 66, there is a whole lot to like about it. The
difference between the 66 and the 34-444 (much like the Grizzley) is what
you might expect, more power, smoother operation. Being able to "dial in" a
2" rip and know that's what you'll get is possible with a good fence and a
contractor's saw.  However, I just ripped some 7' long 12/4 hard maple, 7
1/2" wide. I could have done that with the 34-444 too, but it would have
suffered and it would have been a chore.

You may say *now* that you can't see yourself working with 12/4 maple. I
said that too, a few years ago.




From ba221@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Wed Apr  2 12:01:25 EST 1997
Article: 193036 of rec.woodworking
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From: ba221@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Gaetan Mailloux)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Waterglass (Sodium Si.) for woods fireproofing ?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:12:48 GMT
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I read in a book that we can use waterglass (Sodium or Potasium Silicate)
for woods fireproofing.

Anyone know about it, or did try it ?

Any hints ?

Thank

Gaetan


From woodisgood@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:26 EST 1997
Article: 193037 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Halbur <woodisgood@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 06:32:50 GMT
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I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or switches) on the 
outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in my new backyard workshop.  I 
am about to start running the wiring in the shop.  I was thinking to put a bank of 
20 amp double pole switches near the door with each switch killing one or two branch 
circuits.  This obviously adds a bit to the cost of the wiring job and everyone I 
talk to about this (none of them are woodworkers) look at me like I'm looney for 
even thinking about it.  Are kill switches really overkill?

Also, is there a better way to switch off the branch circuits that isn't too 
expensive?  I had thought to use a multi-pole contactor, but the $200+ cost made me 
change my mind.

John Halbur





From fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu Wed Apr  2 12:01:28 EST 1997
Article: 193038 of rec.woodworking
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From: fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu (Drive-by Shooter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 06:42:53 GMT
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On 27 Mar 1997 02:39:06 GMT, sj14280@aol.com (SJ14280) wrote:

>I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
>are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
>keyword for these cars?  Please help!

>From  what I remember of my cub scout days, and later helping my
brother, there are 2 big factors in making a pinewood car go fast.

1.  The wheels and axles must be PERFECT!  Chuck all 4 into a drill on
a nail or something of axle diameter, and using sandpaper run down the
mold flashing being careful not to take any more off than necessary.
Two at a time in one of the axles would probably work as well.  Its
also a good idea to burnish the axle holes with an axle chucked in a
drill, but just a little.  When you put the wheels on the car, be sure
the axles are properly liked up so you don't have any camber.
Finally, we used powdered graphite as a lubricant and it made quite an
improvement.

2.  Weight.  You will want to be as close to the maximum weight limit
as possible.  We used stick-on wheelweights underneath the car so as
not to make it look ugly.  Make sure you have adequate clearance
between the weights and the track!  The stick ons were nice since we
could show up underweight and using the official scale add weight
until it was just right.  They didn't have a problem letting us do
this since we brought extra weights for others.

The aerodynamics didn't seem to make much of a difference, except of
course for the kid who built the fire engine.  His barely made it to
the end of the track, but he did take first place in the craftsmanship
category.  I had my best car that year and ended up taking second for
both speed and craftsmanship.  They raced it and the first place car
several times before deciding it, standing next to the line I couldn't
even call it.  There's really something to be said for the electronic
gizmos they use now to call finishes.

Good luck with your cars!


Del Rawlins, HRM Student       "All I want out of Fairbanks
fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu            is out of Fairbanks"
http://icecube.acf-lab.alaska.edu/~fsdcr/
All flames deleted with extreme prejudice.
 


From dbletapp@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:29 EST 1997
Article: 193039 of rec.woodworking
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From: dbletapp@aol.com (Dble tapp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Multi-Use Tool's
Date: 28 Mar 1997 06:23:37 GMT
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There is a lathe/mill/drill made by the Smithy Company with angle vise for
$2900. Is this a good price, and a good product? My boss is looking for a
unit which has these functions, but can't remember which ones were good.
Do any of you have a suggestion as too multi-tool units, and where we
could find a good used one?

Many thanks,

Ernie


From tpcassc@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:30 EST 1997
Article: 193040 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: help needed
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I am refurbishing an antique bassenet which has scroll work that appears
to be made of grape vines.  some of the scroll work is damaged and needs
replacing.  

Can anybody advise where i can have it replaces, remanugactured or can
purchase such a material to do the work myself.

In advance, thanks.

Tom


From wasmith@gte.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:31 EST 1997
Article: 193041 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:32:30 -0600
From: wasmith@gte.net
Subject: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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First of all, let me relate to you my sad story. I have been struggling
for  several years with a low cost direct drive tablesaw. I have reached
the end of line with it, in so far as it is very difficult to get good
precision or accuracy out of this saw.

So now I am considering moving up. I have read the recent comparison of
"Contractor" saws in FWW 4/97 issue, but was left with the nagging
question as to how  good are these saws.

I realize that a the Unisaw is the standard here for most people. How
close can a contractor saw, such as the Delta 36-440, come to the Unisaw
in terms of accuracy and repeatability?

And how good are these saws for general woodworking, like cutting tenons,
ripping, etc?

Responses of any kind will be appreciated!

Bill

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:01:32 EST 1997
Article: 193042 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based Urethanes (previously Diamond Finish, etc.)
Date: 28 Mar 1997 07:25:08 GMT
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In article <01bc3a4f$6f4bd780$a41f02c7@jmr.btw.com>, jmr@btw.com says...
>
>I saw a note on Varathane's Diamond Finish and can add this:
>
>We tested it, and several similar products, on fir, oak and pine, both with
>and without stains. None added the richness we have come to like on top of
>bare wood. So we are staining first. You can use oil-based polyurethane as
>the first coat to get the old amber-hue. 
>
>We tried Zar, Zarathane and Sikkens' water-based urethanes and settled on
>Zar because it brushes on thicker, yeilding better a build. With
>Varathane's product, I had to put it on VERY thin to keep it from running
>and always needed three coats.

I put it down over a few coats of watco. The watco brings out the color,
especially in cherry. Now that I said that, someone suggest a good rub on
poly finish I can put on this dresser Im building. Otherwise, maybe Ill
try this Zar, cause like you say, the varathane is runny and brushing it
on vertical surfaces is a pain.

stev


-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
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From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:32 EST 1997
Article: 193043 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Recommendations?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:32:52 -0800
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Philip Procter wrote:
> 
> "Rick Gimbel" <richargi@microsoft.com> wrote:
> 
> >At the risk of starting a 'really big' thread:
> 
> >I would appreciate anyones input on the better 1 3/4 - 2hp routers, plunge
> >doesn't matter, this router will spend most of its time in a custom table
> >anyway.

So ya prolly don't really want a plunger anyhoo...but this is another thread
entirely...and I don't really wanna get Rich and Bennett all fahred up... ;^>

> >Price IS an issue and please spare the 'garbage in - garbage out' lectures,
> >I'm on a budget <g>

Aren't we all?  What do you want to spend?  And it's interesting that those
folks trying hardest to 'save money' on tools spend the most on them when
the cheap crap breaks...see my .sig

> >Thanks in advance.......
> >--
> >Rick Gimbel
> >Actual sign in a Los Angeles dance hall:
> >"Good clean dancing every night but Sunday."

Hmmm....Kinda like the actual sign I see occasionally near Old Town San Diego:

      +-----------------------------+
      |                             |
      |       P S Y C H I C         |
      |          F A I R            |
      |                             |
      |     ----------------->      |
      |                             |
      +-----------------------------+

How's come they need the sign?  hehehe....But I digress...

> Oooh, I just know I'm going to catch it for this!!

 Ayup!

> The regular, consummer model Sears router is about $80 and has some
> nice feature (and some obvious shortcomings, like no 1/2" bits). 

Not to mention the exclusive patented ARHA* feature found only on
Sears Best Craftsman routers.  This is truly an engineering feat
on par with some of the truly awesome things that have gone down
in 'Murracun history...like clear Miller Lite (what kinda marketing
brain fart was *that*?).

[snip]

> For about $60 more the PC is a better router.

Yeah.  I fixed the problems that I was having with my Crapsman router 
by adding a Porter Cable upgrade kit** to it.  It now works like a champ.
$60 well spent, IMHO.

The PC 69x is really a nice small router.  It has the ability to be several 
routers in one, by interchanging the bases.  It will support your skills and
needs as they grow.  You might wanna start off with the 690 for use in a table, 
and later buy the 6931 base for plunge work, and maybe the 6911 base for 
non-plunge hand-held use.  Routers are awfully versatile machines to constrain
to one kind of operation, IMHO.

[bunch-o Jesus drivel snipped]

*  ARHA  Automatic Random Height Adjustment.  A feature found only on 
	Sears routers that causes the height to slip at the moment that
	is most likely to damage the piece of wood that you are working
	on.  This is not a problem unless you care what the finished piece 
	looks like.

** Porter Cable Upgrade kit.  This is an auxiliary attachment to the Sears
	router that you bought when you didn't listen to the advice of 
	folks who warned you to stay out of Sears stores.  It is simple
	to attach.  Start by removing the bit from the Sears router.
	Open the Porter Cable upgrade attachment box...PC part number
	PC690.  Unpack it carefully.  In the center of the foam insert
	will be a gray cylindrical device.  Remove it carefully, and
	use the spanner set included in the box to insert the bit into
	the small, beak-like device on the bottom side of the cylidrical	
	part of the upgrade kit.  Place Sears router in garbage with a
	great deal of pomp and ceremony.  Upgrade complete.

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu Wed Apr  2 12:01:33 EST 1997
Article: 193044 of rec.woodworking
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From: fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu (Drive-by Shooter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 07:24:43 GMT
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On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:44:32 -0600, Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com>
wrote:

>Our cars won the race the second time that we made them.  There were
>plenty of Dad's that built some really nice cars, but you could tell
>that the kid had nothing to do with it.  It kind of defeats the whole
>purpose of the thing.  It's up to you.

This can also be a double edged sword.  The assumption being, if a car
is really nice, then the kid couldn't possibly have built it himself
and the dad must have done the whole thing.  Personally I don't have a
problem with the adult doing a lot of it, so long as the kid learns
the right lessons from it.  Did my dad spend more time than most
others helping on my cars and my brother's?  Probably.  At the same
time, along with the other projects we did together it helped to teach
us to work carefully, and to have pride in our workmanship.

I probably wouldn't have so strong an opinion on this except for what
happened to my brother in his last year in cub scouts.  That year he
built a VERY nice car on his own, with little help from our dad, and
would probably have done quite well.  Unfortunately whenever his
friends would be talking about the upcoming derby without fail they
would give him crap about "cheating" and how nobody had any chance
against the Rawlins brothers since our dad built our cars.  Eventually
he had heard enough of this and essentially told them all where to go
and what to do, and didn't even go to the derby that year.  By that
time his car was pretty much finished, and it never did get used.  I
think my dad's contribution to that one was limited to shooting the
paint, tweaking the wheels, and I think rough sawing the basic shape
my brother wanted.

Anyhow it felt good to get that out.  not sure what I am trying to say
other than that it should be kept as a fun learning experience.  The
best pinewood derby I have ever been involved in was in the boy scouts
when we got our hands on some of the cubs' leftover pinewood kits and
hacked together some cars in a hurry before they took the track down
for the year.  No pressure, and the only awards our cars would have
won would have been for goofyness.  We did have a lot of fun though.


Del Rawlins, HRM Student       "All I want out of Fairbanks
fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu            is out of Fairbanks"
http://icecube.acf-lab.alaska.edu/~fsdcr/
All flames deleted with extreme prejudice.
 


From loon@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:34 EST 1997
Article: 193045 of rec.woodworking
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From: loon@earthlink.net (Terry Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:19:19 -0600
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In article <33381b17.98075490@news.mindspring.com>, *davefr@mindspring.com
wrote:

> I wanted to use teak but chose  western red cedar due to cost.  I used
> both brass screws and waterproof glue and am very pleased with the
> results. Here's are some of the alternatives:
> 
> Teak - $16 bd/ft
> Plantation Teak - $9 
> Mahogony - $4.85
> Iroca - $4.75
> Jatajo $4.25
> Cyprus - $3.60
> Ash - $3.50
> Western Red Cedar - $3.50
> White Oak - $3.40
> Redwood - Not considered. Hard to find good quality
> 
> Iroca and Jatajo look fairly similar to Teak.  I would seriously
> consider them as Teak substitutes for a future product..        
> 
> 
> 
> >I am a novice woodworker and am planning to build Adirondack chairs.  What
> >would be my wood of choice if I do not want to paint the chairs?  And what
> >material should I use if the chairs are painted?

Using the  above list your best deal is white oak. This oak fills the
parenchym tubles with material so water will not penetrate and therefore
white oak is used for outdoors furniture. May not look as good as Teak but
will last a long time and cost a lot less and is usually availble.


From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:01:35 EST 1997
Article: 193046 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 28 Mar 1997 07:44:51 GMT
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I learned on a unisaw, but it wasnt my shop. Came time to build my own
shop, I settled for a BT3000. Im in business, Im building pretty much
what I want to with it. Its not a bad saw at all, but it sure isnt a 
unisaw. Someone says here youll eventually want one (the unisaw) 
and that is true. Now, if youre seeing used unisaws going for $500,tell
me where and Ill buy it if you dont. From what Ive seen, unisaws hold 
value real well, and I havent seen one even close to $500.
The only real shortcomings on the ryobi are power and tablesize and no 
miter gauge slots. Otherwise its fine, and it will do the job as is 
anyways.

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
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From stevek@leopard.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:36 EST 1997
Article: 193047 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Koschmann <stevek@leopard.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fingerprints
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:59:30 -0700
Organization: Fluid Forms, Inc
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Tom Perigrin wrote:
> 
> In article <19970327014201.UAA00549@ladder01.news.aol.com>, dj1o1@aol.com
> (DJ1O1) wrote:
> >
> > I installed a new(unfinished) wood door. The kids put lots of fingerprints
> > on it, and I need some suggestions on how to remove the fingerprints
> > before I urethane it. Any ideas will be appreciated. Please E-mail
> > answers.
> 
> Take 220 sandpaper, fold it around blocks of wood, hand it to the lil'
> monsters, and make them sand them out.
> 
> Tom
> 
> ------
> 
> Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
> extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
> address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
> address.
Tom, it isnt that hard... try to wipe the door down with lacquer
thinnner or tupentine.  I would use turpentine...

Steve K


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:37 EST 1997
Article: 193048 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (Brad W.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Tables
Date: 27 Mar 1997 18:21:36 GMT
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In article <5he3de$l9t@piper.pwgsc.gc.ca>, RLepage@aol.com (R Lepage) wrote:
>I'm currently shopping for a router table. My router is a B&D with a 6" 
>base. 
>
>Any recommendations on brand or model? Also I am considering getting a 
>second router which I could leave attached to the table. Any 
>comments?
>
>I am located in Canada if that helps with your input.
>  
>
>============================================
>=   Richard Lepage - PWGSC
>=   RLepage442@aol.com
>=   lepager@pwgsc.gc.ca  
>

As a novice woodworker, I will open myself for flamage by giving advice 
based on only limited knowledge:  First, I would say don't buy a Craftsman of 
any sort.  I was given the best that they make, and I am not completely 
satisfied with it.  Because it is "crappy, like all Crapsman tools?"  No, it 
actually levelled out quite well, has a decent miter gauge and a solid fence, 
and excellent dust collection.  I am not completely satisfied with it because 
the table top is not as smooth as I would like, and the fence design doesn't 
allow you to use all those neat jigs and fixtures that you see in the 
woodworking magazines.
	So, here is the advice that I give and leave open to comment by those 
who know better:  take advantage of the multitude of designs for simple (and 
not so simple) router tables that you see in American Woodworker, Fine 
Woodworking, Workbench, and The Router Handbook.  I have tried other people's 
tables who have used one of the many router adapter plates available, melamine 
(sp?) for a very smooth top, and a hardwood fence, and they are much more 
pleasant to use than mine.  For the $99 that someone spent for my table (which 
is cheaper than most others), it seems to me that you could build an excellent 
one of your own to your own specs, using plexiglass for guards, featherboards, 
 table inserts, etc.  Or, I noticed this month that Workbench magazine offers 
plans, hardware sets, or complete kits for building nice tables and enclosed 
cabinet router stations.
	Anyway, I should cease my rambling and just say that, were it not for 
the fact that its absence and replacement would offend the gift giver, my 
table would be gone and replaced by a home-made unit.

Brad W.      


From DAVIDMEIER@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:38 EST 1997
Article: 193049 of rec.woodworking
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From: DAVID MEIER <DAVIDMEIER@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta 34-670 tablesaw
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:55:43 -0500
Organization: WebTV Subscriber
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     I have recently won, but not yet received this saw.  Since I don't
have a tablesaw, and I can add most all of the Delta accessories to it,
I intended to keep it. However, every salesman and Delta representative
I talk to says I need to upgrade to a 34-444 or 34-445 due the better
motor.
     I am a weekend warrior who hopes to have the time to complete 3-4
medium size projects a year. I have inherited a fairly well rounded
woodshop including:
10" RAS, drill press, lathe, oscilating sander, jointer, and assorted
routers and drills. Half of my projects are made out of pine and half
hardwoods. Do I really need to spend the extra dollars for the larger
motor? I would be very interested in hearing any opinions.  If you have
the 34-670 , how do you like it?

   Thanks in advance.

David

The odds of a piece of bread falling to the floor butter side down are directly proportionate to the cost of the carpet.
                          Murphy's Law


From bcohen@kersur.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:39 EST 1997
Article: 193050 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bob J. Cohen" <bcohen@kersur.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: doweling jig question
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:31:27 GMT
Organization: Bayview Point Enterprises
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I just bought an eagle dowel jig and it has four hole running down the
center of the device, index markings for 1/4 3/8 etc., and 12 different
metal bushings of different bores.  I understand the basic principle behind
the device but what I'm not sure about is which of the four holes to put
the bushing that fits the size dowel I want to drill.  Since I want to use
1/4 inch dowels, I'm guessing that I should use the one marked 1/4 inch. 
Are the four holes for different thickness of board?

Thanks,

Bob


From mccs@prtel.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:40 EST 1997
Article: 193051 of rec.woodworking
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From: mccs@prtel.com (mccs)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS Jointer & Lathe
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 11:43:35 GMT
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For Sale in west central Minnesota.  Powermatic Model 50 (6 inch)
jointer and Powermatic Model 45 wood lathe.  e-mail to mccs@prtel.com
for complete particulars.

mccs



From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:41 EST 1997
Article: 193052 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good jig saws?????
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:29:15 -0800
Organization: Self
Lines: 19
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193052

Mark Stamp wrote:
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good jig saw? I was considering
> the Dewalt DW321k (about $168, mail order). Any suggestions
> in this price range would be most welcome. Thanks.
> 
> Mark Stamp
> 
> --
> I am not a donkey and I don't have a field. --- Max Weber

Mark,

Do a search through Dejanews and I think that you'll find the top choice
(with some exceptions, of course) is the Bosch.  Most of the debate is
about barrel vs. D handle grip style.  Matter of personal preference,
IMHO.  

Dave Druckerman - happy owner of a Bosch D handle


From bibmtb@wantree.com.au Wed Apr  2 12:01:42 EST 1997
Article: 193053 of rec.woodworking
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From: bibmtb <bibmtb@wantree.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For Sale
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 18:48:13 +0800
Organization: Wantree Development
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FOR SALE........

Exotic Australian Hardwoods,
all types, all sizes. Any
application from wood-turning
to furniture-grade. Huge 
volumes available.

A.M. Demolition
PH  +61 8 95923344
MOBILE  +61 0417 784 684
FAX  +61 8 95923304


From bibmtb@wantree.com.au Wed Apr  2 12:01:43 EST 1997
Article: 193054 of rec.woodworking
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From: bibmtb <bibmtb@wantree.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Australian Hardwood For Sale
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 18:50:38 +0800
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FOR SALE........

Exotic Australian Hardwoods,
all types, all sizes. Any
application from wood-turning
to furniture-grade. Huge 
volumes available.

A.M. Demolition
PH  +61 8 95923344
MOBILE  +61 0417 784 684
FAX  +61 8 95923304


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:43 EST 1997
Article: 193055 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Message-ID: <8D4C39C.0233014B1F.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 97 15:24:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
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The library is still the best place to get free plans and generally the
last place anyone looks,,If you have a nice Saw deck then drill a few
holes in it and make a router table outta it,,I think the router tables
that let ya lift the router up still connected to top are best..
                          LW

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------


-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:44 EST 1997
Article: 193056 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:58:57 -0800
Organization: Self
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John Halbur wrote:
> 
> I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or switches) on the
> outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in my new backyard workshop.  I
> am about to start running the wiring in the shop.  I was thinking to put a bank of
> 20 amp double pole switches near the door with each switch killing one or two branch
> circuits.  This obviously adds a bit to the cost of the wiring job and everyone I
> talk to about this (none of them are woodworkers) look at me like I'm looney for
> even thinking about it.  Are kill switches really overkill?
> 
> Also, is there a better way to switch off the branch circuits that isn't too
> expensive?  I had thought to use a multi-pole contactor, but the $200+ cost made me
> change my mind.
> 
> John Halbur


John,

I believe that this really boils down to who is going to be using and/or
having access to your shop.  If it's just yourself, then I see no real
benefit to having kill switches.  If, on the other hand, there will be
some neophytes working out there with you, then it's probably a
reasonable peace-of-mind addition.  

I still remember high school shop had kill switches that shut off all of
the outlets and all of the stationary power tools at once.  Big red
mushroom push buttons on each wall, with a seperate key locked reset. 
Instructor used to push it five minutes before the end of each class to
make sure that all of us little sh#*s (his phrase, not mine) would clean
up rather than run out.  Don't think I ever knew where the relays were,
but they made one heck of a sound when they kicked out.  (Oh, what I
wouldn't give for that 20" Delta variable speed industrial bandsaw and
16" jointer now...what a waste to put into a high school shop!)  

Anyways, if you are serious about the kill switches, you really should
have one (or multiple in series) button that kills everything.  Last
thing you want in an emergency is to be guessing which switch to throw. 
It seems to me that would defeat your purpose.  If you want to go that
route, you're getting into some significantly higher expense.  Would
require contactors (relays) on each circuit.  This typically requires an
industrial level electrician.

My two cents.

Dave Druckerman


From jrclark@tiac.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:45 EST 1997
Article: 193057 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hello
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:23:25 -0400
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Anyone here into woodcarving?  I used to do it years ago.


From marky@@up.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:46 EST 1997
Article: 193058 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ISO: Ryobi mail order parts source
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:06:04 -0600
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Robert Eastburn wrote:

  Fellow woodworkers:

  I have a Ryobi oscillating drum sander for which I need a new belt.
  Does anyone know of a mail order source for parts for this sander?
  Hate to drive in to the city if at all possible <g>.  TIA

  Robert P. Eastburn
  eastburn@msn.com
  photography | technical writing

 Hi; don't have it in front of me, but think the phone number (Tony,
Virgil & the boys) is (800)310-2581; if that doesn't work, their tech
support number is: (800)525-2579 I think; try to get "Larry" if
possible.

Best,

mark

--

(Remove the "X" in address when replying)
newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address

Mark Young
marky@up.net
acoustic@up.net



From marky@@up.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:47 EST 1997
Article: 193059 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wolfcraft Biscuits too thick for slots cut by Ryobi Biscuit joiner
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:10:09 -0600
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Heck, after finally concluding that I'd keep the newly purchased Ryobi,
I found tonight the hard way that the biscuits that came with the tool
were considerably thinner than the bulk packs of a hundred or so made by
Wolfcraft.

Question: are Woldcrafts' biscuits standard size or rather thick. I.e.,
are the included biscuits supplied by Ryobi substandard thickness? Who
is not living up to specs?!!!
Thanks,

(Remove the "X" in address when replying)
newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address

Mark Young
marky@up.net
acoustic@up.net



From RBAUGH@INF.NATP.GMEDS.COM Wed Apr  2 12:01:48 EST 1997
Article: 193060 of rec.woodworking
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1


From schneidc@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:49 EST 1997
Article: 193061 of rec.woodworking
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From: schneidc@aol.com (SchneidC)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help needed stopping rust of tool tables
Date: 28 Mar 1997 12:45:50 GMT
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<First, use the right paste wax and use it often.  I was using Minwax
paste wax with no results.  Several folks recommended other, and
probably better waxes, but I noticed improved lasting-power when I
switched to the ever-present Johnson's.

Second, cover your horizontal surfaces with cardboard when not in use.
I had a hard time accepting this advise, since humidity shouldn't just
attack exposed horizontal surfaces (in my mind), but it seems to work
(maybe its the salt precipitating, so this may or may not work for
you).

I've been use the combination of the two now for about a month and
have had not reoccurrance of rust.>

Hank's advice is right on. I learned the Johnson lesson... and also the
covering lesson. After trying several "protective" sprays, I independently
worked my way to Hank's solution. I also live on the coast...in the
Houston area....works!



From mardean@istar.ca Wed Apr  2 12:01:50 EST 1997
Article: 193062 of rec.woodworking
From: "Dean & Marlene Price" <mardean@istar.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joint edge on planer?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 12:40:38 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193062

You can edge joint in a planer, I do it all the time!
But like Colin said, you need a straight edge first.
I do it to create boards that I want a certain width, it skips using
the table saw and then the jointer again only to find out that the
width is narrower then what I wanted or the sides are not parallel.
I've used up to 6'' in width.
Dean


> > What if you put the board into the planer on edge?  I know it might
sound
> > dangerous.  So you couldn't do it on every piece.  But if it was mostly
> > straight; just rough, couldn't you put it on edge and have the rollers
> > hold it steady and let the planer take off just a little bit.  Then do
it
> > again.  And again.  Then turn it over and do the other edge. Would this
> > work?  I imagine the biggest problem would be if the wood were to fall
> > over sideways.  But I don't think it would do that if the rollers were
> > holding it down.
> > David.
> 
> Assuming the piece didn't simply fall over (or come shooting back out at
> you at 100,000 miles per hour), you wouldn't end up with a straight edge
> on either side because you need at least one straight edge to reference
> off the bed of the planer.
> -Colin
> 


From mathsgr8@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:51 EST 1997
Article: 193063 of rec.woodworking
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From: mathsgr8@aol.com (Mathsgr8)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source for old planes?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:20:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I would like to buy an "old" jointer plane.  I want it to use, not
collect.  Can
someone give me a contact?  I hope to find a #8, or #7.

Thanks.

Chuck Clark
mathsgr8@aol.com


From 73257.2074@CompuServe.COM Wed Apr  2 12:01:52 EST 1997
Article: 193064 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jean Heroux <73257.2074@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:18:05 GMT
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I bought a dial indicator from Lee Valley, at about $40 Canadian. That
price included the magnetic stand. It's made in China. Works fine so
far. I used it to adjust blade parallelism on my table saw and it made
the operation much easier than with any other method I had tried.


From {removethistoreply}bonjoel@bonjoel.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:53 EST 1997
Article: 193065 of rec.woodworking
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From: {removethistoreply}bonjoel@bonjoel.com (Joel Shapiro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:22:24 GMT
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Grizzly has some in the $12-$15 range that are very good for adjusting 
WW machinery.  I have one I got for $19 a year ago the compares very 
favorably with my Starrett when checking DP runout, Miter slot to blade 
squareness, etc.



In article <01bc3a51$9604f300$35cd93cf@D000000.sce.com>, 
efleblanc@worldnet.att.net says...
>
>Jim, you are probably looking for an indicator with .001" graduations 
an
>d
>something like 1.00" of travel.  IMHO the best are Starrett, Brown &
>Sharpe, and Mitutoyo.  I think these are overkill for a woodworker.  I 
h
>ave
>had a Teclock indicator for years that I use for general purpose stuff 
a
>nd
>I find that it is good enough.  This model indicator can be had through 
>J&L
>Industrial Supply for $32.95 cat no.TTS-20005A.  I recommend you call 
th
>em
>and get a catalog as there are many options, e.g. travel, dial color, 
0-
>100
>of 0-50-0 graduation, etc.  Phone no. is 800-525-6817.
>
>I think with some shopping you can probably beat their price, but it 
giv
>es
>you a place to start.  I think a magnetic base would also be of value 
to
>you.
>
>BTW, the Starrett, B&S, etc. indicators run from about $80 on up 
dependi
>ng
>on accuracy class, etc.
>
>Regards,
>
>Ed
>
>BigJim <bigjim@ALASKA.NET> wrote in article
><3.0.32.19970326143504.0069f51c@alaska.net>...
>> I've read so many posts here regarding misalignment, runout, etc. 
that
>I've
>> decided to add a dial indicator to my tool chest... yet I haven't 
seen
>them
>> advertised in any of my woodworking catalogs.  Can anyone recommend a
>> source and some idea of what they cost?
>> 
>> I'm the kinda guy who doesn't need a gold-plated unit, but doesn't 
wan
>t
>> cheap either.. (i.e. I paid about $50 for my dial micrometer).  What
>> suggestions can those of you who have "been there" offer me in 
selecti
>ng
>> one.  Is $50-60 a reasonable investment, or will it only buy junk?
>> 



From lucifer@sheol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:54 EST 1997
Article: 193066 of rec.woodworking
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From: lucifer@sheol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: -->Please check here before posting...
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 12:33:04 GMT
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Please check these sources 
before posting to rec.woodworking:

The primary FAQ for this newsgroup,
and many worthwhile links, may be found at
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html

the excellent Mulder Intro is at
http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

Art's other links begin at
http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/Pages.html

Please do NOT waste rec.woodworking space 
for testing. Use alt.alt.test or alt.just.testing 

Woodturners have their own newsgroup:
rec.crafts.woodturning

Wood carvers post in a newsgroup named
rec.crafts.carving

Search engines for all newsgroups are at 
http://www.dejanews.com/forms/dnq.html
and http://www.reference.com

The Usenet may also be searched at
http://www.infoseek.com/
http://www.excite.com/

but to retrieve binaries, search Usenet at
http://altavista.digital.com

a Usenet general-info URL is
http://www.yahoo.com/News_and_Media/Usenet/Newsgroup_Listings/

If you're not making any mistakes, you're 
probably not making anything else, either.


To reply, properly format the following.
Chuck: cwuest at ibm dot net
My apologies for the inconvenience that
spammers have wrought.



From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:55 EST 1997
Article: 193067 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:27:01 GMT
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Doug Dawson writes
>    What could go wrong with a dial indicator?, I'm wondering.  Such a
>    simple device, particularly for measuring in the small-thou range.
>    What conceivably could the US-made units give you that we don't get
>    with the Chinese stuff?  For woodworking and machine setup, it
>    didn't add up...

I'm no expert on this, but I can think of two things off the top of my
head:
1) Accuracy. Just because the thing has 0.001" graduations doesn't mean
   that it's accuracy is within 0.001". However, since most setups
   don't require that anywhere near the full range of the indicator is
   used, any errors are probably minimal - and considering that 0.001"
   is close to an order of magnitude more than is needed for most
   woodworking setups, I'll agree the cheap ones are fine.

   If you've got a set of accurate feeler gauges you can get a handle
   on how accurate your dial indicator is over a small range. Zero it 
   against a fence, then stick different size feelers between the tip 
   and the fence and see if the readings match the markings. Over the 
   0.000" to 0.035" range of most feeler gauge sets, you'll probably be
   fine.

2) Indicators will wear, and dust can get in the mechanism. But again,
   for woodworking they aren't an every day use item, and at this price
   they're cheap to replace when/if they do break. You can get 10 of
   the cheapies for one really good one.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From rywoodview@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:55 EST 1997
Article: 193068 of rec.woodworking
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From: rywoodview@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS sliding table.
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:33:45 GMT
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Has anyone used the Sears sliding table on their
tablesaw?

Just looking at one poorly installed floor sample, it looks a bit flimsy,
but maybe it works well when installed with care oneself.  It is just
$150, so much less than the Delta, etc., competition.

BTW -- no, I am not a Sears fan, since my old Sears router, in an early
iteration of the magic self-adjusting height version, nearly ruined a
carefully built TS extension table's router insert cutout, which was the
very last job requested of it before its replacement by a very excellent
Hitachi M12V.

Regards, 
                Robb
+                                 +                                   +
      Robert B. Young                 'Woodview'
  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
                                            (716) 442-7830
+                                 +                                   +   
  
" . . . there is only one great thing,
             The only thing,
        To live to see the great day that dawns
             And the light that fills the world."
                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
+                                 +                                   + 

+                                 +                                   +
   Robert B. Young, MD            'Woodview'
  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
                         (716) 442-7830
+                                 +                                   +      
   " . . . there is only one great thing,
                The only thing,
           To live to see the great day that dawns
                And the light that fills the world."
                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
+                                 +                                   +                                


From doryjoe@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:01:56 EST 1997
Article: 193069 of rec.woodworking
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From: doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How about a B&D mitre saw?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:38:58 GMT
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I have the B&D saw, and am disapointed in it.  It does not cut true, never
has even after much effort on my part.  The blade is not at right angles
to the table.  On 3\4 stock placed flat on the table, the error is not
noticable.  Place stock on edge,  flat against fence and the error is very
evident.  Note, there is no adjustment for this problem except to shim the
arm holding motor where it bolts to table.  I have tried this with some
success, but it eventually changes with use. I will never buy another saw
that does not have an adjustment for this problem.  They cost a little
more, but if you ever want to cut wide molding it is worth the difference.
 Good luck.  Joe


From breenmt@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:57 EST 1997
Article: 193070 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael T. Breen" <breenmt@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source: Bartleys wood filler or your favorite...
Date: 27 Mar 1997 20:18:25 GMT
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I'm doing a bunch of red oak projects that will wind up with a Watco walnut
oil finish.
My local 'fine woodworking' store is having a hard time finding bartleys in
natural or dark or in anything but little cans.

Saw norm on the tube with a half gal. of a wood filler he tinted for some
Mohogany project he was on.  Everybody at the other stores wants to sell me
DAP or Elmer's wood filler - get real here!

Is there a mail order or web location for these or maybe your favorite
pore/grain filler?

Any direction is better than the one back to my hardware store.  I have a
refinishing book that says to use a product with SILEX - although none of
the products I've seen so far has this in it.  Is the book out of date or
what - does silex cause cancer and induce children to smoke?

Thanks for any advice or tips.

Michael
breenmt@fuse.net


From kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:01:58 EST 1997
Article: 193071 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kit Davidson <kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scrollsaw Patterns
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:41:45 +0000
Distribution: world
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In article <19970328025501.VAA25414@ladder01.news.aol.com>, Vern268
<vern268@aol.com> writes
>Can anyone tell me where I can get some patterns for schrollsaw work?
>
>If you have any to share, please send!!
>
>Thanks!!
>
>Please email me at Vern268@aol.com
>
>:)

 Try `the Art of the Scroll Saw' by Patrick Spielman published by
Sterling/Chapelle New York at $19.95. It contains many original designs for all
skill levels.
-- 
Kit Davidson


From bmrbeal*@twave.net Wed Apr  2 12:01:59 EST 1997
Article: 193072 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: bmrbeal*@twave.net (Brent Beal)
Subject: WTB: holly and persimmon
Message-ID: <31b7cd$82f2a.7@NEWS>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:45:40 GMT
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A place in Eureka, Ca. used to sell holly logs. Does anyone know of a
source for this?
Also, I am looking for a piece of persimmon approximately 24 inches
long by 6 or 8 inches in diameter. Preferably with the bark still on
and the ends sealed.




From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:00 EST 1997
Article: 193073 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bridge City - III
Date: 28 Mar 1997 03:34:01 GMT
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"John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com> writes
> The 5" adjustable try square arrived yesterday.
> The primary reason I selected this item was the graduations along the
> blade, I've always wondered why a try square doesn't usually have such
> things.

Because it's hard enough to fix the blade at 90 degrees without also
having to fix it at a certain point.


> Well, as I noted but ignored the handle is not 1" wide, so the graduations
> along the outer edge of the blade are pretty useless (IMO). The inside
> graduations are relative to the inside of the handle, the outside
> graduations are also relative to the inside of the handle.

Sure about this? I've got the larger version of this, and the outside
graduations are relative to the outside of the handle. I note that their
catalog shows the smallest version being used to measure height on the
outside edge.


> So you can't use it to measure height, it's slightly more than 1/16" short.

Is yours defective?

(I reiterate my previous musings on the ability of the accuracy of the
scales to be dependent on the accuracy of the handle thickness, but that
mine appears to be at least within 1/128", which is good enough considering 
the graduations are 1/32" apart, IMHO.


> The little flange that pops out is another mystery. I suppose if it came
> out easily (it does not) you could use it to keep the blade flat, but I'm
> not sure why it would provide any benefit. The weight of the handle
> prevents it from laying down while in use.

Again, with the larger version it does keep the blade flat. However, the
larger version has a longer blade, so the center of gravity is not 
somewhere in the handle. I found at a show that the dfit of the little
flange varied widely among samples.


> I guess I expected something a bit better, I'm not sure what.

Well, from my experience with the larger one, you should have gotten
something better.


From bmrbeal*@twave.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:02 EST 1997
Article: 193074 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: alt.architecture,alt.architecture.int-design,alt.construction,alt.building.architecture,alt.building.construction,rec.woodworking
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From: bmrbeal*@twave.net (Brent Beal)
Subject: Re: hlp:small post/beam studio
Message-ID: <31b7cd$8322a.287@NEWS>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:48:39 GMT
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"Tom Landis" <obs@eskimo.com> wrote:

>Ken Blessing <kbless@nfld.tds.net> wrote in article
><333878F7.4B5A@nfld.tds.net>...
>> I am looking for suggestions--be they books, companies, architects, etc. 
>Although my 
>> needs are small, I am NOT looking for the lowest cost solution.   I want
>to end up with 
>> quality, character, and a pleasing and cozy space.

><snip>

>> Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions anyone has.

>Hi Ken.....
In the back of Country Living, Early American Homes and some of the
other magazines of this type, there is a company with plans for post
and beam type buildings. These buildings are on the barn-shed carriage
house type and sizes.






From Verrochi@tiac.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:03 EST 1997
Article: 193075 of rec.woodworking
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From: Verrochi@tiac.net  (Matt Verrochi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoke Alarm sounds off from Dust?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:52:02 GMT
Organization: Unorganized
Lines: 20
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On 27 Mar 1997 13:07:53 GMT, pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2) wrote:

>In article <33395B3C.4127@aloha.com>,
>>> Twas down in the basement ripping away with my new saw when the smoke
>>> alarm went off.  Neither the motor or the belt was hot.  No apparent
>>> reason for the Smoke Dector to sound an alarm.  Does anway have any
>>> input to offer?

Many smoke alarms measure density of the air - which is why mine goes berzerk when I get out of the hot, steamy shower and
let the air  just "circulate" our of the bathroom onto the smoke detector 2 feet from the door..

As far as suggestions go: I'd move the detector, get some type of "filter" like a rag or whatever to cover the detector
temporarily.  If the air is that dense, you're wearing a dust mask, right?
 
 Matt

Verrochi@tiac.net
RC Cars, Parts and Radios for Sale at:
          http://www.tiac.net/users/verrochi/RCSALE.htm



From Verrochi@tiac.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:04 EST 1997
Article: 193076 of rec.woodworking
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From: Verrochi@tiac.net  (Matt Verrochi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: SKIL woodworking tools:  Cheap enough - are they junky?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:55:57 GMT
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I was in the Grossamans Bargain Outlet and saw a Skil belt sander for $40.  I'm not really impressed by the quality of the
only other Skil product I've owned - which was a power screwdriver which had the switch break on it.

Basically, I only intend to use this occasionally, rather rarely, if you will.  Is thing any good for light occasional use or
should I just suck-it-up and buy somethng with decent quality for 3 times the price.

Please bear in mind - this will only receive occasional, light use.

Thanks
 
 Matt

Verrochi@tiac.net
RC Cars, Parts and Radios for Sale at:
          http://www.tiac.net/users/verrochi/RCSALE.htm



From dvogel@lucent.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:05 EST 1997
Article: 193077 of rec.woodworking
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From: dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R. Vogel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:52:07 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Middletown, New Jersey
Lines: 17
Distribution: na
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Reply-To: dvogel@lucent.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193077

Anyone have the Rodale "Router Magic" book by Bill Hylton?
How does it compare to router books that I've seen at retail
bookstores?

Through a mailing I received yesterday they are offering
it at 4 installments (excuse me, four *easy* installments)
of $6.99 each.  Why not just price it at $27.96 and be done
with it?  Do they think we really can't do the math and it
sounds cheaper at 4 $6.99 bites?

I digress.  So, how do you rate the book as far as value
and usefulness?  Will I get more than a few jig ideas and
technique tips to make it worth while?

Thanks.

Dennis Vogel


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:06 EST 1997
Article: 193078 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 110 vs 220 VAC motor
Date: 28 Mar 1997 07:03:49 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <5hgj45$6cn@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <3311AECC.5A73@qgraph.com> <858008138.24298@dejanews.com> <01bc3011$16d709a0$94883180@ifozdex> <33377353.BD9@inreach.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193078

>> Andrew
>
>Actually, it's probably slightly cheaper to run on 110V.  Power is
>delivered more effectively at 220V, and you are paying for power.  You
>get slightly less at 110V because of resistance in your wiring.
>


Odds are the cost will be about the same.  In one case a higher 
proportion of the power you are paying for will be used to heat the 
wiring leading to the saw, that's all.  And the more power that's soaked 
up in the wiring, the poorer the performance of the saw.

rhg


From kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:02:07 EST 1997
Article: 193079 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kit Davidson <kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Please send E-mail
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:48:32 +0000
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ohr9UKAww8OzEwCd@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
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In article <01bc3b16$175384c0$22be73cf@default>, Ray Ewing
<ray@oakharbor.net> writes
>I just changed internet providers and cannot seem to receive e-mail from my
>daughter on the other coast.  I don't know if it's her setup or mine. 
>Please send e-mail so I can tell which setup is at fault.
>
>Thank you.
>
>Ray

-I think its your setup Ray. Email to you is being rejected by my provider.- 
Kit Davidson


From ereiss@kih.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:08 EST 1997
Article: 193080 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ed Reiss" <ereiss@kih.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Creating a FIRST straight-edge
Date: 25 Mar 1997 04:11:27 GMT
Organization: EDANN Enterprises
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David
The idea here is to get a fence that is longer than the piece. To that end
a ten foot length of 2" angle iron clamped to your tablesaw's fence would
give you that extra contact surface to get a straight FIRST cut.
-- 
Ed Reiss
Berea KY
ereiss@kih.net

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
....don't just stand there.....make something!!
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

DMarlen <dmarlen@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970321034700.WAA13891@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I bought some exotic woods at a lumber warehouse.  Nice prices, I
> believed.  Anyway, I couldn't wait around while they ripped-trimmed one
> edge to make it straight.  It's always much easier to start with one side
> that is straight.  So my boards have neither side straight.  What's the
> best way to get one straight edge?
> 
> I do have a 6" jointer, so the table is maybe 28" long.  Not necessarily
> long enough to do the board.  I was wondering if there was a good way to
> do it on a tablesaw.
> 
> David.
> 
> 


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:09 EST 1997
Article: 193081 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 28 Mar 1997 14:34:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 19
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In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>, winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) writes:

>
>So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
>people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
>comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
>-- 
>Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
>winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
>Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 
>
>

My BT3000 is 5 years old and I appreciate the portability it lends.  I could not have a saw in the middle of the garage so it gets "parked" against the wall almost every night.  Use DEJANEWS to find
the summary evaluation by 8 owners of the saw and some accessories.  E-mail if you can't find.  One in the local paper with outfeed and side tables for $400.  Someone is unhappy.


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:10 EST 1997
Article: 193082 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue for Veneering?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 14:34:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <333ab38f.31977829@news.gulf.net>, bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein) writes:

>
>
>Wood shed in Buffalo, NY is a good source.
>
>Use only hot hide glue for veneering.
>
>

Bob, can you amplify of the differences and characteristics between hot and liquid hide glue?  Seems like it would be of benefit to a bunch.  TIA.


From davidp@meaddata.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:11 EST 1997
Article: 193083 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidp@meaddata.com (David Pledger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wolfcraft Biscuits too thick for slots cut by Ryobi Biscuit joiner
Date: 28 Mar 1997 14:35:57 GMT
Organization: Lexis-Nexis, Dayton OH
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I don't know specifically about Woldcraft's biscuits, but I have found that
if I leave any biscuit container open for long on a mildly humid day, many of 
the biscuits will be too tight to use the next day.  They wick up the
moisture and swell.

Mark Young (marky@up.net) wrote:
: Heck, after finally concluding that I'd keep the newly purchased Ryobi,
: I found tonight the hard way that the biscuits that came with the tool
: were considerably thinner than the bulk packs of a hundred or so made by
: Wolfcraft.

: Question: are Woldcrafts' biscuits standard size or rather thick. I.e.,
: are the included biscuits supplied by Ryobi substandard thickness? Who
: is not living up to specs?!!!
: Thanks,

: (Remove the "X" in address when replying)
: newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address

: Mark Young
: marky@up.net
: acoustic@up.net


--
+==============================+=============================================+
| David W. Pledger             | S T R A T E G I C   D A T A   S Y S T E M S |
| davidp@lexis-nexis.com       |      PO Box 498, Springboro, OH  45066      |
| Custom Database Applications |            Phone: 1-513-743-SDSI            |
+==============================+=============================================+


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:12 EST 1997
Article: 193084 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem
Date: 28 Mar 1997 07:30:50 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <5hgkmq$72k@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193084

>Ernie,
>
>Others have mentioned how important blade tension is and I agree, put
>more tension on the blade than is suggested. I don't know how your saw
>shows how much tension is on the blade but tighten it more than it is
>supposed to have. Crank it up. Use a pipe wrench if it gets hard to
>turn by hand. (within some sense of reason of course)
>
>After you have the guides aligned very close to the tight blade
>capturing all of the blade but the hook of the teeth, and raise the
>guides to just above the piece to be resawn, (shorten your fence if
>necessary) the blade has no choice but to follow.
>
>theoretically of course.
>
>Al

To each his own, but I don't think I'd use a pipe wrench to add blade 
tension.  I hate to join in the "go to the library" admonition but I 
don't have the "rule of thumb" with me.  Mark Duginske (sp?) has an 
excellent book on the care and feeding of bandsaws and if the tension 
indicator on your saw isn't up to snuff or it lacks one altogether, he 
will give you the technique for measuring sideways deflection to get the 
correct tension.  In my limited experience, the band is the most 
important factor.
I resaw, usually, 6" x 4/4 material which I plane to two 6 x 3/8 pieces.  
I have a tall fence which I always set at 90 degrees to the table edge. 
I have a a 1/2" 4 tpi hook tooth band that will track straight end to end 
and top to bottom.  When I have been too lazy to change the band and 
tried to resaw with the 1/4" blade that's usually on the saw, I get a 
complete mess.  Ergo, my impression that the band is the thing.  I'm not 
saying that 1/2 vs 1/4 is the factor, I would guess I've messed up the 
set or otherwise buggered up the smaller bands so that they don't track 
well.  The advice about setting the blocks to fully support the band, I 
think is good, at least that's what I try to do.  I think that 
overtensioning the band might flex the saw and actually exacerbate the 
problem.  Good luck.  Let us know what you find that works.

rhg


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:02:13 EST 1997
Article: 193085 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS sliding table.
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 09:50:50 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <haubert.227.002BD15B@mbi.org>
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In article <19970328133301.IAA22058@ladder01.news.aol.com> rywoodview@aol.com writes:
>From: rywoodview@aol.com
>Subject: Re: TS sliding table.
>Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:33:45 GMT

>Has anyone used the Sears sliding table on their
>tablesaw?

>Just looking at one poorly installed floor sample, it looks a bit flimsy,
>but maybe it works well when installed with care oneself.  It is just
>$150, so much less than the Delta, etc., competition.


That's still about $145 more than a cutoff jig made from scraps, and it's 
probably less accurate.  

Rich
Just say I've never understood why people pay big bucks for these things.

And also just say why is it that people feel the need to end all their posts 
with these absurdly-long signatures?  It must be the trite, self-important 
sayings, I guess:

This one's 16 lines of drivel:


>        To live to see the great day that dawns
>             And the light that fills the world."
>                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
>+                                 +                                   + 

>+                                 +                                   +
>   Robert B. Young, MD            'Woodview'
>  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
>                         (716) 442-7830
>+                                 +                                   +      
>   " . . . there is only one great thing,
>                The only thing,
>           To live to see the great day that dawns
>                And the light that fills the world."
>                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
>+                                 +                                   +                                



From rasari@ct2.mai.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:14 EST 1997
Article: 193086 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Richard J. Asarisi" <rasari@ct2.mai.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 28 Mar 1997 14:34:41 GMT
Organization: North American Internet
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <01bc3b86$70b5f280$0fa685d0@rasarisi>
References: <tip-240397142520@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <5heg96$nfg@enquirer.corp.adobe.com>
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Lets see I made the Corner Cabinet and the Hutch too.  The corner about 5
years ago, still looks and works great, certainly hasn't fallen apart.  The
Hutch about 3 1/2 years go and it looks more beautiful everyday, again
certainly not falling apart.

Bennett Leeds <bennett@adobe.com> wrote in article
<5heg96$nfg@enquirer.corp.adobe.com>...
> Tom Perigrin writes
> >... So we will see a whole bunch of
> > people making mediochre cabinetry which will fall apart in a few years.
 
> 
> It's been more than "a few years" since Norm's first shows were aired. 
> 
> Anyone built one of Norm's designs and have it "fall apart?"
> 
> 
> - Bennett Leeds
> bennett@adobe.com
> 
> Just say Just wondering.
> 
> Opinions are mine alone.
> 


From jcud@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:14 EST 1997
Article: 193087 of rec.woodworking
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From: jcud@aol.com (JCUD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sliding Pocket Doors
Date: 28 Mar 1997 15:07:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I need help locating hardware for pocket doors in my 100 year old house. I
need the brass floor tracks(about 8 feet long) and also the rollers that
are in the bottom of the door. I have not been able to locate any place
local that has them. Thank you in advance for your help.


From nospam Wed Apr  2 12:02:15 EST 1997
Article: 193088 of rec.woodworking
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From: Adam Whiteson <nospam@seesigblock.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HELP!  BS blade supplier
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 07:59:44 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <333BDCE0.3769@seesigblock.com>
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I am looking for the name & number of the bandsaw blade supplier who
sells low tension
BS blades.  I believe their name is  P.S Machinery or P.S. Wood
Machinery or the like.

I bought a couple of blades from them on the recommendation of a post in
this news group
and they do a wonderful job of resawing.  Absolutely no drift. 
Unfortunately, I lost the ordering info.

I am grateful for your help

			Adam

********Adam Whiteson whiteson.ix@netcom.com**************


From jimj4@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:16 EST 1997
Article: 193089 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Jenkins <jimj4@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Save the Trees! Wipe Your Butt with Spotted Owls!
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 09:07:03 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
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To: bpounds@ix.netcom.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193089

Bill Pounds wrote:
> 
> sumbody@nowhere.com wrote:
> 
> Most any owl should do, they'll end up spotted anyway.
> 
> --
> Bill Pounds
> bpounds@ix.netcom.com
> 
> **********************************************
> * Join the National Rifle Association today. *
> *  The rights you save will be your own!     *
> **********************************************

hehehehehe  good one!


From dustie1@ccipost.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:17 EST 1997
Article: 193090 of rec.woodworking
From: Nancy Lenz <dustie1@ccipost.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 19:28:10 -0600
Organization: Nancy's Creations
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193090

Al Taylor wrote:
> 
> >Ernest Shipley wrote:
> >>
> >> I have an old bandsaw and it cuts good for curves, etc., but I have a
> >> real problem trying to resaw with it. If I resaw stuff more than 3"
> >> thick  I can't keep the blade from wondering around. I've done all the
> >> "book tuning" I can think of. I use a tall fence. The blade seems to
> >> always want to go to the side the fence is on no matter which side I put
> >> it on. I've done the saw halfway thru thing and lined the fence up on
> >> the mark but doesn't seem to help. I am now using 1/2"-3tpi skip tooth
> >> blade by PS Wood. Anybody got any suggestions other than get a new one
> >> |:) ?
> >> Ernie
> 
> Ernie,
> 
> Others have mentioned how important blade tension is and I agree, put
> more tension on the blade than is suggested. I don't know how your saw
> shows how much tension is on the blade but tighten it more than it is
> supposed to have. Crank it up. Use a pipe wrench if it gets hard to
> turn by hand. (within some sense of reason of course)
> 
> After you have the guides aligned very close to the tight blade
> capturing all of the blade but the hook of the teeth, and raise the
> guides to just above the piece to be resawn, (shorten your fence if
> necessary) the blade has no choice but to follow.
> 
> theoretically of course.
> 
> Al
With a pipe wrench.What kind of trash advice is this?
Mike Bridges
locust1@ccipost.net


From bandy@spambgone.org Wed Apr  2 12:02:18 EST 1997
Article: 193091 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Scott Beals <bandy@spambgone.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Homebuilding a Bandsaw?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:48:55 +0000
Organization: Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers, Willow Glen
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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It's in the FWW book on Table Saws [&Planers/Joiners] which is still in
print and probably easier to find.

Kevin Schott wrote:
> 
> Years ago Fine Woodworking had a article on building one.  It might
> be in
> 
> issue   year        month         page          title
>  author
> 65     87     JUL/AUG     61     SHOPMADE BANDSAW,CORNELL, W

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HOPLOPHOBIA IS A SOCIAL DISEASE
http://www.scruz.net/~ab/
bandy at cinnamon dot com	DoD#1005
'75 Yamaha RD200, '89 Honda Pacific Coast PC800

posting address buggered to prevent spammers from wasting my precious dollars
downloading their crap

--------------6EC55D7613C7FEA37F98E0FB--



From changes@bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:19 EST 1997
Article: 193092 of rec.woodworking
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From: changes@bright.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi radial arm saw any good???
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 10:35:41 -0800
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I have one and offer my opinions.
Its noise far exceeds OSHA regulations. 
The arm does not remain perpendicular to the major axis of the table. It 
neeeds to be braced to a wall! So forget about "arm mitre" cuts.
The saw FLIES across lumber, so hold on or else.
Sears models (spit) are better.
This was my worst tool purchase.
I cannot sell it.
Because of this DESIGN, I will never patronize the brand.


From jimmy905@netrover.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:20 EST 1997
Article: 193093 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jimmy Hazel" <jimmy905@netrover.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: woodworking rogue joint
Date: 28 Mar 1997 15:49:48 GMT
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Hi Jimmy the joiner from Canada formally Ireland 
want to know what a rogue joint is and how you cut it. 
$5.oo a pop


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:21 EST 1997
Article: 193094 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Biscuits
Date: 28 Mar 1997 15:27:24 GMT
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It's about time for me to re-stock on bicuits.  I'd love to
get some feedback on whose bicuits are the best quality
in terms of uniform (and appropriate) sizing.  The last batch
I bought (cheapies) varied by as much as .045" in thickness,
and I'd like to avoid that disaster this time...

Personally, I prefer Pilsbury, but they're just too darned
flaky and hard to glue...

Seriously, though, I'd like to hear of any particularly good or
bad brands or sources...

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------



From deval@global.california.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:22 EST 1997
Article: 193095 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 08:02:23 -0800
From:  <deval@global.california.com>
Subject: Re: Oak door refinishing
In-Reply-To: <859433796.11402@dejanews.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193095

sometimes I've found good strong ammonia to work well for removing
shellac.

On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 jcook@utw.com wrote:

> I have mahagony doors from 1931 with 3 layers of paint.  I finally found
> out that back then they often used shellac with an amber tint.	I fount
> that a heat gun applied to the paint took the paint off easily because
> the shellac melts and releases the paint.  Shellac comes off well with
> denatured alcohol and scotch brite pad (green) (about 600 grit ).  Get
> the green pads ast a janitorial supply house and plan on about a gallon
> of denatured alcohol per door.	About $5.00 gal.  I've even used a pad
> more agressive than the green and it works well.  Keep it wet and wipe
> black crap up with paper towels.
> 
> I don't know how I'm refinishing them yet.
> 
> 
> In article <859342185.25406@dejanews.com>,
>   sasjr@flash.net wrote:
> >
> > I recently tried to refinish an internal oak door. One side was already
> > varnished but the other was painted. I stripped the paint and found a dark
> > (almost black )stain. I tried to remove the stain with wood bleach. I
> > finally sanded the stain off with a very course sandpaper. The door looked
> > ok until I put a clear gloss varnish on it. Evidently I did not get all
> > the stain out because the door got blochy with dark black spots. Any
> > suggestions on fixing the problem? I would like a light oak finish.
> >
> > -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
> >       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
> 
> 



From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:23 EST 1997
Article: 193096 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 07:51:47 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
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acroii@aol.com wrote:
> 
> As a newbie to "fine" woodworking I toss out this question.  Norm built a chest of drawers (see how I resisted poking fun at his accent) a couple shows ago.  He attached the front edges to the carcass with his infamous brad gun and glue.  Looked to me like a good place to toss in a couple biscuits, but he didn't.
> 
> Would anyone really shoot holes in the front of a nice furniture piece?
> 
> How would they be filled to make them blend in?

I didn't see the show, but if the brads were just there to hold wood in
place while the glue dried, they might be an acceptable approach. It
depends upon whether you think it will take less time to cover up the
damage later than it would to put in a spline or biscuits to hold
things. 

When the piece is ready, the holes could be filled with a mixture of
wood dust and glue, or you could finish the piece and then fill the
holes with melted shellac stick, just as you might fill dings in any
finished piece.

Phil




From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:24 EST 1997
Article: 193097 of rec.woodworking
From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw 2 wheel vs. 3 wheel
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 08:07:14 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
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John Cesco wrote:
> 
> I am wanting to purchase a bandsaw for my small home shop but would like
> to first hear views on the pros and cons of 2 wheel vs. 3 wheel
> bandsaws. Any comments would be welcome.

A three-wheel saw will give you more room between the blade and the
column than a two-wheeler of the same overall size. However, because the
blade must travel over three, smaller wheels, it will be flexing a lot
more and to a tighter radius than the blade of a two-wheel saw. This
means it will break sooner.

Phil




From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:25 EST 1997
Article: 193098 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:15:19 GMT
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In article <859514140.24324@dejanews.com>, wasmith@gte.net says...
>
>First of all, let me relate to you my sad story. I have been struggling
>for  several years with a low cost direct drive tablesaw. I have reached
>the end of line with it, in so far as it is very difficult to get good
>precision or accuracy out of this saw.
>
>So now I am considering moving up. I have read the recent comparison of
>"Contractor" saws in FWW 4/97 issue, but was left with the nagging
>question as to how  good are these saws.
>
>I realize that a the Unisaw is the standard here for most people. How
>close can a contractor saw, such as the Delta 36-440, come to the Unisaw
>in terms of accuracy and repeatability?
>
>And how good are these saws for general woodworking, like cutting tenons,
>ripping, etc?
>
>Responses of any kind will be appreciated!
>
>Bill

Bill:
Since you've been through DejaNews, you've probably noted that
this is a long, wide, deep subject, and I empathize with your dilemma.

I've always had a Unisaw in my shop here at the University, and they
are in a class all their own.  When I finally had a chance to start
setting up a real shop at home, I bought a used Delta/Rockwell
contractor's saw (which was a complete mess, but the price was right...).
I spent the better part of a week getting the thing rehabbed, removing
rust, lubing, adjusting, all that sort of stuff, and found that while they're
not Unisaws, the overall design is quite similar, and they're well made --
well enough that I used that contractor's saw for about 7 years, and
made some very nice pieces with it. I replaced it a month ago with a
new Unisaw.

I may be oddly biased, being in the position of using both the Unisaw
and the contractor's saw in the same day, and having used both very
extensively, so I was always acutely aware of the differences between
the machines, and the limitations of the CS.  But if I had not had
the Unisaw to use as a benchmark, I may have never known how
different, as well as how similar, they are.  John Hofstad-Parkhill
points out very succinctly in another current thread that they both
cut wood.  It's pretty hard to argue with that.

The Unisaw does it better -- how much better is a matter of
some debate, but in my mind, the difference is huge.  The Unisaw
being so much bigger, heavier, and more accurately machined,
setup is a breeze, because your references (like the table top,
when setting a dado depth) are so much more reliable.  It also
runs much more smoothly, more quietly, and with far less vibration,
which are important factors to consider when you spend a lot of
time at the saw.  And if you want to cut thick hardwoods accurately,
the Unisaw has plenty of power, while the CS has definite limits.

But you can certainly do very high quality work using the CS.
It's fussier about getting things set up right.  It's more apt to
waver from those settings during use.  The arbor will have looser
tolerances for runout, so your jointer or handplaning skills become
more important.  It's power limitations are something to keep in
mind, although it has enough power to cut just about any 3/4"
hardwood you throw at it without complaining too much.  They
are built well, and will either take considerable abuse or perform
reliably for many, many years if cared for.  But, as in most
things, you get what you pay for.  The best analogy I can think
of is comparing a Ford Escort to a Lincoln, or a Beretta to a
Corvette -- or a Dodge Ram to a Dump Truck.

The fence upgrade options are definitely worth the price, and
give you pretty much the same benefits with either saw.

-- 
John Paquay
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------



From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:26 EST 1997
Article: 193099 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 08:45:23 -0800
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I've been waiting for two months for Constantine's to fill my order for
mahogany veneer. They were vairly prompt about filling orders for poplar
crossbanding and sapele and walnut burl veneers. I recently got a card
saying my order would ship around the beginning of March, but it's not
here yet.

Phil




From boneified@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:27 EST 1997
Article: 193100 of rec.woodworking
From: boneified@aol.com (Boneified)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Shops
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:36:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Hi,
I don't know about Vancouver, however, there's a place here in Virginia
that rents shop time - it's the Woodworkers Club 703-255-1044.

Maybe they know someon in your area.

Good luck,

Jerry


From dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:28 EST 1997
Article: 193101 of rec.woodworking
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From: dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu (Darren Scott Cobb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers...Delta or Jet or someone else
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:32:00 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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In article <333a86b1.2241196@nntp.ix.netcom.com>,
 <boynmdgu@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I'm looking to purchase a jointer in the near future and I have no
>idea which brand to go with. A maintanence man at work said that
>Jet machines don't last very long. Is this true? Do all jointers have 
>to have there tables shimmed eventually? If anyone can steer me
>in the right direction I would appreciate it . Thanks

This doesn't really answer your question, but:  A few weeks ago 
I read the discussion here on rec.ww about using a router & straight
bit as a jointer.  I tried it, and it works unbelievably well.  Check 
out Dejanews for the details if you're interested.  (Maybe you already 
know about the technique, but on the other hand I thought it might 
save you a couple hundred bucks).

Darren Scott Cobb                  __  .    __    .      _/|__    ,
Indiana University               }<_;>  . }<_;>  .     /`o _  `\_/ 
dascobb@indiana.edu                            __  .   >,_____,/^\ 
http://ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu/~dascobb/      }<_;>        \|      `


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:29 EST 1997
Article: 193102 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:38:23 GMT
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The version of Jake's Chair that I have on my front porch is made from
Juniper.  It cost $1.60/bf in 4/4, compared at that time to $1.75 for cypress.
Juniper has more knots than Cypress, so there's more waste if you cut around
them.  The benefit is the fun of having a shop smelling like a cedar closet
for the next year or two,  I kept some of the Juniper scraps and run them
throught the planer occasionally to give my whole house a delightful "cedar"
scent.

By the way, Juniper is an oily wood and has good outdoor characteristics.

Tom


loon@earthlink.net (Terry Clark) wrote:

>In article <33381b17.98075490@news.mindspring.com>, *davefr@mindspring.com
>wrote:

>> I wanted to use teak but chose  western red cedar due to cost.  I used
>> both brass screws and waterproof glue and am very pleased with the
>> results. Here's are some of the alternatives:
>> 
>> Teak - $16 bd/ft
>> Plantation Teak - $9 
>> Mahogony - $4.85
>> Iroca - $4.75
>> Jatajo $4.25
>> Cyprus - $3.60
>> Ash - $3.50
>> Western Red Cedar - $3.50
>> White Oak - $3.40
>> Redwood - Not considered. Hard to find good quality
>> 
>> Iroca and Jatajo look fairly similar to Teak.  I would seriously
>> consider them as Teak substitutes for a future product..        
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> >I am a novice woodworker and am planning to build Adirondack chairs.  What
>> >would be my wood of choice if I do not want to paint the chairs?  And what
>> >material should I use if the chairs are painted?

>Using the  above list your best deal is white oak. This oak fills the
>parenchym tubles with material so water will not penetrate and therefore
>white oak is used for outdoors furniture. May not look as good as Teak but
>will last a long time and cost a lot less and is usually availble.

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:02:30 EST 1997
Article: 193103 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kit Davidson <kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:15:51 +0000
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In article <5hgkmq$72k@nyx.cs.du.edu>, Robert Galloway
<rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu> writes
>>Ernie,
>>
>>Others have mentioned how important blade tension is and I agree, put
>>more tension on the blade than is suggested. I don't know how your saw
>>shows how much tension is on the blade but tighten it more than it is
>>supposed to have. Crank it up. Use a pipe wrench if it gets hard to
>>turn by hand. (within some sense of reason of course)
>>
>>After you have the guides aligned very close to the tight blade
>>capturing all of the blade but the hook of the teeth, and raise the
>>guides to just above the piece to be resawn, (shorten your fence if
>>necessary) the blade has no choice but to follow.
>>
>>theoretically of course.
>>
>>Al
>
>To each his own, but I don't think I'd use a pipe wrench to add blade 
>tension.  I hate to join in the "go to the library" admonition but I 
>don't have the "rule of thumb" with me.  Mark Duginske (sp?) has an 
>excellent book on the care and feeding of bandsaws and if the tension 
>indicator on your saw isn't up to snuff or it lacks one altogether, he 
>will give you the technique for measuring sideways deflection to get the 
>correct tension.  In my limited experience, the band is the most 
>important factor.
>I resaw, usually, 6" x 4/4 material which I plane to two 6 x 3/8 pieces.  
>I have a tall fence which I always set at 90 degrees to the table edge. 
>I have a a 1/2" 4 tpi hook tooth band that will track straight end to end 
>and top to bottom.  When I have been too lazy to change the band and 
>tried to resaw with the 1/4" blade that's usually on the saw, I get a 
>complete mess.  Ergo, my impression that the band is the thing.  I'm not 
>saying that 1/2 vs 1/4 is the factor, I would guess I've messed up the 
>set or otherwise buggered up the smaller bands so that they don't track 
>well.  The advice about setting the blocks to fully support the band, I 
>think is good, at least that's what I try to do.  I think that 
>overtensioning the band might flex the saw and actually exacerbate the 
>problem.  Good luck.  Let us know what you find that works.
>
>rhg
Your blade is wandering because it is trying to bend backwards as the
wood is pressured against it. A sharp blade will cut, a blunt blade will
twist and make a concave cut when it is restrained from bending
backwards by the roller guides. Obviously, a blade will also behave like
this if the feed rate is too high, no matter how sharp it is. Also the
width of the blade is a factor, a blunt wide blade will distort while
cutting before a thinner blade in the same conditions. I never use
blades wider than .25ins and find the skip variety has a bettr all round
performance for resawing. I also recommend Mark Duginske's book, `The
Bansaw Handbook', I was as baffled as you until I read it!
-- 
Kit Davidson


From stevek@leopard.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:31 EST 1997
Article: 193104 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Koschmann <stevek@leopard.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Cordless Drill???
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:06:36 -0700
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*davefr@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
> Panasonic is my all time favorite and it's gotten great reviews.
> 
> Avoid Milwaukee.  The motor self destructed on mine after minimal use.
> They have a good warranty though.
> 
>   On 27 Mar 1997 23:49:24 GMT, "Jamie Barnes"
> <jabarnes@mindspring.com> wrote:
> 
> >I'm new to this newsgroup, so if this has been discussed previously I
> >apologize. I'm going to buy a cordless drill in the next few weeks. I'm
> >having a house built so I'm going to use it for obvious things like hanging
> >mini blinds, shelves, etc. I'm also going to go in after the subfloors are
> >put down and screw in the floors to prevent squeaks. I'm considering buying
> >a 12V DeWalt. Partially because two of my buddies also have 12V DeWalts and
> >I could borrow their battery packs if I ever needed to. I've also looked at
> >Mikita, Bosch, and a couple of others. Any experiences, positive or
> >negative, would be appreciated.
> >
> >
My favorite is the Bosch.  I have the Dewalt 12v and the Dewalt 14.4V
(got a GREAT deal on that one) but I use the Bosch 12 volt the most. 
Seems to fit my hand best and the battery really lasts...

Steve k


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:32 EST 1997
Article: 193105 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:47:56 GMT
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Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>John Halbur wrote:
>> 
>> I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or switches) on the
>> outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in my new backyard workshop.  

I sense that you're wiring your shop by extending a 100 amp or so line to the
shop and feeding a distribution panel that would serve the needs of your
tools.  Here's a suggestion, then,

You might consider feeding two adjoining panels.  One would be for the lights
and would not have its own main circuit breaker.  Beside it would be a second
panel that would have a 100 amp main breaker disconnecting all other breakers
in the panel.  When you left the shop for the day, you could just flip off the
main on that panel, which would kill all the circuits you intended to have
dead.  At the same time,  you'd have the flexibility of deciding whether NEW
circuits would go to the "continuously on" panel or the one that you would
kill each night.  

Tom
Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From boneified@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:32 EST 1997
Article: 193106 of rec.woodworking
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From: boneified@aol.com (Boneified)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi radial arm saw any good???
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:52:02 GMT
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Hi,

I've been using the Ryobi ras for some time - all ras's I'm told tend to
need adjustment more frequently than say a table saw, (lotta moving parts
I guess) and it's true for Ryobi.

Motor is noisey (like all Ryobi the other tools I own) so you need ear
prot.

If you're interested, I'll sell you mine (just yesterday bought a new
mitre box & Delta tablesaw) for $100 (includes maple fence and carbide
blade). I'll throw in a 6" steel stacked dado head set for $25 if you like
- let me know.

Thanks,
Jerry O'Sullivan


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:33 EST 1997
Article: 193107 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:51:21 GMT
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fsdcr@aurora.alaska.edu (Drive-by Shooter) wrote:

>On 27 Mar 1997 02:39:06 GMT, sj14280@aol.com (SJ14280) wrote:

>>I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
>>are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
>>keyword for these cars?  Please help!

Its also good to keep the weight as far back as reasonably possible.
Remember, the cars start out on a slant, but the slant transitions to level
before the finish line.  The front wheels therfore have LESS height and stored
energy than the higher rear ones.  By adding weight over the rear wheels, it
has more stored energy than weight added over the front wheels.

Tom
Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From samcc@pepper.ncinter.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:34 EST 1997
Article: 193108 of rec.woodworking
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From: Stephen & Amy McClune <samcc@pepper.ncinter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:37:19 -0500
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One tip I have used successfully is to use spray wax(Pledge etc.)
instead of graphite BUT I had to super glue the axles in place to keep
them from sliding out!

As a Cub Scout den leader I have been to quite a few of these and I
believe that the more work the kid does the better. I have also seen a
little guy who did all the work himself become totally humiliated when
his car wouldn't even make it all the way down the track! There is a
happy medium.

My sons design their cars, make a pattern, which I cut out. They paint
and decorate and I fine tune the wheels. We do the weight together. Over
the years we've managed to pick up a first, a second, and had a heck of
a lot of fun!!

I suppose that I do more than some fathers and less than others. It's
all a question of what you can live with.

It's always fun to watch the kids arrive at the Derby, some follow their
fathers as dad carries the car (junior can't touch it 'til after the
race!) Others come in rolling their cars across the floor like Match box
cars!! It's really hard to say who will have more fun.

Oh well, I'll jump off the soap box now and give someone else a turn.


From dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:35 EST 1997
Article: 193109 of rec.woodworking
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From: dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu (Darren Scott Cobb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Recommendations?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:50:33 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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In article <333B49F4.44AB@titan.com>, Steve Wallace  <wallace@titan.com> wrote:
>
>> >Price IS an issue and please spare the 'garbage in - garbage out' lectures,
>> >I'm on a budget <g>
>
>Aren't we all?  What do you want to spend?  And it's interesting that those
>folks trying hardest to 'save money' on tools spend the most on them when
>the cheap crap breaks...see my .sig

And to top it off, a fine router seems to be one of the few 
tools that nearly any woodworker can afford.  I have to admit 
that I feel terribly humbled when I see these discussions about 
$1000 table saws and $500 miter saws, and how anything less is 
just junk.  But some of the very best routers on the market (I'm 
partial to my Bosch) shouldn't set you back more than $200.
This being the case, there is no excuse for buying the Craftsman.

I won't Craftsman-bash just for the sake of bashing, or just to 
be fashionable, either.  But please don't buy a Craftsman router. 
The problems I had with mine have been echoed here multiple times.
I can't believe that a bunch of people sat around in a boardroom
and actually purposefully approved that machine for release.
Maybe I'm naive.

Darren Scott Cobb                  __  .    __    .      _/|__    ,
Indiana University               }<_;>  . }<_;>  .     /`o _  `\_/ 
dascobb@indiana.edu                            __  .   >,_____,/^\ 
http://ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu/~dascobb/      }<_;>        \|      `


From jfb@uidaho.edu Wed Apr  2 12:02:36 EST 1997
Article: 193110 of rec.woodworking
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From: jfb@uidaho.edu (j.f.bailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Catalog Tools
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 13:24:54 GMT
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Can anyone tell me anything about the Reliant brand or the Central Machinery 
brand of power tools?  I see them advertised in various supply catalogs, but 
can't find anyone who has ever owned or used them.  Bear in mind that I am 
only a home workshop hobbiest on a limited budget.  I realize you usually get 
what you pay for, but if these tools are of any quality at all, they might 
just be what I need.

Bailey
jfb@uidaho.edu


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:37 EST 1997
Article: 193111 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:11:59 GMT
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If you would like an inexpensive fixer-upper, the Grizzly provides a
solid base from which to start. I've seen them in person and they are
a little rougher around the edges than the pictures in the catalog
reveal. (bandsaws too) I haven't seen the new "Z" series, but the
fence on the others would be the first thing to upgrade. (the jointers
are an excellent value)

If you could get a good price for a used Unisaw, that would be
something you could just move into, (these are home-buying analogies
in case you're wondering) but you don't run into too many of these.

The Ryobi, I really can't say

It all depends on individual preferences.

my two cents

Al


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:38 EST 1997
Article: 193112 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:55:40 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
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In article <5hgie7$g5p@nntpa.cb.lucent.com>, dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com 
says...

>Anyone have the Rodale "Router Magic" book by Bill Hylton?
>How does it compare to router books that I've seen at retail
>bookstores?

> . . .  So, how do you rate the book as far as value
>and usefulness?  Will I get more than a few jig ideas and
>technique tips to make it worth while?

>Through a mailing I received yesterday they are offering
>it at 4 installments (excuse me, four *easy* installments)
>of $6.99 each.  Why not just price it at $27.96 and be done
>with it?  . . . .

>Dennis Vogel


I flipped through it in Waldenbooks last weekend. Router Magic is a 
collection of special purpose jigs and accessories for routing. (Ten or so, 
I think). They are innovative and if you do a lot with your router, it is 
worth the price they ask. Hylton's books are always top-notch (IMHO).

I've learned long ago that you dance with the devil when you deal with 
publishers by mail-order. Now days, I'm willing to pay extra at the 
booksellers just to stay away from those nasty "urgent" notices I always got 
when I declined to re-subscribe to a magazine or returned those unsolicited 
books I was sent "on approval".

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:39 EST 1997
Article: 193113 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need router advice and other
Message-ID: <8D4D22F.0233014BE3.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 09:19:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
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Get good Router bits and stay away from the HI SPEED steel ones as they
are only good for pine,,Hrwds like a micrograin carbide bit [costly but
necessary] Bits will cost far more than router for a decent basic set.
As far as Saw goes,A good saw is a lifetime investment and costs no more
than a basic computer setup but to save a bit buy a quality saw used at
a bargain price or simply buy as much Saw as you can scrape up..The key
to saws is accurrate cuts and ez to adj fences-but even a cheap Skilsaw
can make good cuts IF you will build the necessary wooden jigs an
fixtures to fully utilize the saw you own,,As important as the saw is
THEE BLADE! yes a great blade will make life EZ for ya...Read as much as
possible in the HOWTO manuals found in the library they will aim ya in
right direction. Books like HOWTO use the Router,,and Howto use the
Tablesaw,,...Ive seen Large,old Saws with Iron Decks,big motors goin for
50$ at Garage Sales! Cheaper ones could be turned into Fancy Router
Tables easily with a few well placed holes drilled out of em..Also i
forgot to mention that your Projects will dictate the eqpmnt you
need,and its good to know what youll be makin before buyin totally
useless and unrelated eqpmnt.Some folks do fine with a 100$ Bosch jig
saw! Woodworkin is alot of Fun and its Amazin the stuff you can build
for almost nothing by utilizing FREE WOOD! That is to say Wood found
everywhere on trashday,,I even knock down trashed dressers for good
wood. If ya build Small stuff like Shelves,Birdhouse,Craft type stuff
etc You will get most materials free if ya look..Woodworkin Cant be beat
in that respect..
                                 Lee Ward

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CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:40 EST 1997
Article: 193114 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 17:14:40 GMT
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The above subject line may be a bit misleading, but I didn't know exactly how
else to phrase it.  What I'd like to do is to explore a subject with the group
about where we buy our more ordinary tools.  I'm just using these two fine
stores as examples.

Woodworker's Supply is being used to categorize a catalog/store that
specializes in selling a wide range of tools, supplies and materials for the
woodworking hobbyist and probably also some professional woodworkers.  

Home Depot is being used to categorize all general purpose hardware stores,
lumber yards and home improvement stores.

I don't think that anybody would argue that Woodworker's Supply has a much
wider range of tools and other inventory specifically inclined to us
woodworkers, while Home Depot sells a much wider range of materials and
supplies for the building trades and general homeowners.  However, the two
retailers "OVERLAP" in some areas- particularly in their line of general
purpose handtools and power tools.  Home Depot also sells some floor tools,
but not nearly the selection that is found at Woodworker's Supply.

Now here is where I want to introduce something that may be a tad
controversial.  Simply stated,  WHENEVER POSSIBLE, I PREFER TO BUY FROM
WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY, if the price of the tool in question is even roughly
comparable to that found at Home Depot.  I've even found that they'll match
the price of Home Depot when the tools are identical.

My reason for doing this isn't because I'm mad at Home Depot.  In fact, I
really like the place and shop there a lot for building materials, electrical
supplies, plumbing supplies and all other sorts of things, including flowers
and trees.  However, the reason I favor a place like Woodworker's Supply, when
the product is available at BOTH stores, is that by buying even the most
mundane tools from Woodworker's Supply, I help keep the store in business. . .
and therefore I am assured that there will be a source in the future for the
unusual tools, supplies and materials that appeal uniquely to me as a
woodworking hobbyist. 

Its a bit selfish, but I just love the idea of having a catalog or store that
sells a wide and varied range of the tools, materails, supplies and "advice"
that fit into the buying needs of my own workshop.  By supporting this type of
enterprise, I feel that I'm helping myself in the long run.  

Another example of this is a wholesale club, such as Sam's.  There, the club
buys items from manufacturers that are the more popular items and that might
normally carry the highest profit margins for specialty retailers.  For
instance, an appliance store selling a refrigerator may rely heavily on the
profit margins from the sale to stay in business---- and thus also offer
repair parts, for not only the refrigerator, but also the stoves, ovens and
dishwashers that it sells and services.  Sam's Club then comes in and sells
just the main product line that the competing appliance store offers, while
not carrying the miscellaneous other appliances and inventory.  

In the short run, I can theoretically save a few bucks and some hassle by
buying from Sam's Club limited selection of refrigerators.  The tradeoff is
that the appliance store that I rely on for service and parts might fail
eventually.  What I do is to first obtain the Sam's Club price and then give
the appliance store the right to match that price, if I'm willing to buy the
Sam's Club item.  This at least gives the smaller profit to the appliance
store and helps to keep it in business. 

Do others of you feel this way?

Tom

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:41 EST 1997
Article: 193115 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: 28 Mar 1997 17:10:47 GMT
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>In article <333aa7de.7092211@news.tiac.net>,
>>
>>Narrow wheels, narrow pointed nose on the car itself.  (aerodynamics in 
mind)

I took a good look at the winning car at our meet this year. (I dubbed it 
the lead skateboard) It had been shaved down to a wedge only about 3/8" 
thick and lots of work had been done to the BSA issue wheels. They were 
polished and cupped in the center so that they only ran on the inner and 
outer edges. The winner's brother placed second with a similar design, 
however, his wheels--though just as polished--weren't cupped. 



From icarus9@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:42 EST 1997
Article: 193116 of rec.woodworking
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From: icarus9@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines> Alternatives
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 17:19:37 GMT
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I was considering buying some Koa veneer from Constantine's recently.
I had been looking for some Koa, and Constantine's catalog came in the
mail (the first one they've sent me), and lo-and-behold, they offered
Koa for a very low price (<$2/ft^2).  It seemed too good to be true.
Previous to these posts, I was seriously considering going for it.   

After reading people's posts about long delays, etc., I called up
Certainly Wood (with whom I've dealt with before, successfully).  I
asked if they had Koa: yes.  How much? $5.25/ft^2.  A bit more, but
>from  personal experience, I knew it would be decent quality.  How big
are the sheets?  8"-10" wide by about 11 feet long.  How much did they
have? A couple thousand sq. ft.    What did it look like?

Well, describing veneer over the phone is not easy, so I asked if I
could get a small sample.  No problem.  This was Wednesday morning.
Thursday afternoon, a 2nd day UPS mailer was in my mailbox.  Suprise:
a nice big (8"x10") sample of beautiful broken fiddleback Koa, plus a
catalog, etc.  I was shocked.  BTW, I live in SoCal, and they're in
NY.  Not bad service, huh?  They'll be getting my order soon.  Give'm
a try.  I did, and I'm quite satisfied.

Jeff
Carpinteria, CA



Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net> wrote:

>I've been waiting for two months for Constantine's to fill my order for
>mahogany veneer. They were vairly prompt about filling orders for poplar
>crossbanding and sapele and walnut burl veneers. I recently got a card
>saying my order would ship around the beginning of March, but it's not
>here yet.
>
>Phil
>
>



From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:02:43 EST 1997
Article: 193117 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: jigsaw question??????????????
Date: 28 Mar 1997 17:27:18 GMT
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In article <333B5362.56A2@erols.com>, ebender@erols.com says...
>
>i am considering buying a jigsaw does anyone know what would be the 
>best kind of jigsaw of a reasonable price? 
>please e-mail me ebender@erols.com

Seeing as how you have posted many questions and I dont see any replys
yet, I will tell you where to really get these answered. Get on the
web, get onto a search engine and look for 'dejanews'. Then search
for articles on jigsaws. You will end up with a lot of past articles
>from  this group regarding jigsaws. Also search for patterns. Deja is a 
great resource. Deja is a huge database of past newsgroup postings going
way back. Its fast, and works very well. Best luck.

stev




-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From davandersn@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:44 EST 1997
Article: 193118 of rec.woodworking
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From: davandersn@aol.com (David Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:33:50 GMT
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sj14280@aol.com (SJ14280) wrote:

>I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
>are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
>keyword for these cars?  Please help!

The key to Pine Wood Derby Cars is not in the the carving, but in the
wheels and pins.  The sloppy axle diameter creates friction and slows
the car down.  The axle diameter needs to be a tighter fit.  The axle
pin needs to be polished smooth.  A little graphite can't hurt either.



From davandersn@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:45 EST 1997
Article: 193119 of rec.woodworking
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From: davandersn@aol.com (David Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: was wood BTUs - gluing bathhouses
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:33:47 GMT
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jthunder@glacier.math.niu.edu (Jeffrey Thunder) wrote:

>Obww: My son and I are building a bathouse using some discarded cedar the
>neighbors had. We have it all ripped to length ready for glue up into panels
>for the house and I was thinking this might be a good project to try out
>polyurethane glue (since the bathouse will be outdoors, exposed to the
>elements). Any comments/suggestions? Thanks.

>     
>     
>-- 
>Jeff Thunder
>NIU Dept. of Mathematical Sciences
>jthunder@math.niu.edu


Bath house is outdoors and exposed inside and out to humidity, dirt,
and ????  I would reccommend using ss screws as you would to assemble
a deck or any other large scale construction project where seats and
floors are involved.  Nails would work fine for siding.  What part of
this bath HOUSE are you planning to glue up?



From bgordon@industry.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:46 EST 1997
Article: 193120 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brock Gordon <bgordon@industry.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spawn of my Loins!
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:35:11 -0800
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LEE WARD wrote:
> 
> I think makin yer own designs is kewl too! but too bad if ya design
> a 10lb load bearing shelf and stick 50 or 100 lbs on it,,I make my own
> stuff and some is very far out-but since i dunno those rules for
> structural support or engineering factors i try to go wayyyyyyyyy 

<snip>

Gee Lee, the Library has some good reference books on structures.  Look
up the subject heading, I believe, STRUCTURES.


From davandersn@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:47 EST 1997
Article: 193121 of rec.woodworking
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From: davandersn@aol.com (David Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kitchen Cabinet How To??
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 17:33:45 GMT
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>In article <01bc38a3$04948c00$4b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, "bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net> writes:

>>
>>What I am looking for is a good book that provides step by step procedures
>>for building kitchen cabinets including hardware selection.  Can anyone
>>recommend such a book?
>>
>>Thanks in advance for any assistance.
>>
>>Bill Compton
>>bcompton@megalink.net
>>
>>

Check your bookstore and library.   This is the most common inside the
house major project self help book topic around.

My personal favorite is "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets," by Jere
Cary, 1983, The Taunton Press, ISBN 0-918804-15-9.

Hardware selection in a self help book??  I think you are better off
checking out the specialty kitchen and bath cabinet shopsand the
better hardware stores (or even Sears, Home Depot and such).



From edoleski@berk.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:48 EST 1997
Article: 193122 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ed" <edoleski@berk.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hinges
Date: 28 Mar 1997 17:25:37 GMT
Organization: Ed
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I have seen these hinges at true value hardware and home depot.
hope this helps.

ed



From kulinek@mtnlake.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:48 EST 1997
Article: 193123 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
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From: "eugene kulinek" <kulinek@mtnlake.com>
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
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> >Lately, I've been wondering whether having the floors sealed and waxed
> >wouldn't be better.  The maintenance is higher and is ongoing with waxed
> >floors but scratches are easily repaired.
> 

I also want to apply seal + wax or maybe some other type of finish instead
of wax (e.g. Dura seal has something that is not wax hence can be easier
repaired). I phoned some floor manufacturers, Bruce and Mirrage, and yes
you have to explain a lot as most of their business is in urethane floors.
Urathane is a nusance when someone has kids playing with car toys and dogs.
It will scratch for sure so why bother.

So you are not alone in this. I talked to some builders and some agreed
that seal+finish solvent (ala wax) is a better approach when you have lot
of wear on the floor. 

I have applied urethanne (2 coats) on pine stairs 8 y ago and now it wears
off on the edges a lot. Urethane is not any harder if base (pine) is soft. 

Let me know if you found a good seal/wax manufacturer. I want to find a
manufacturer that actually targets this type of finish in his product
family (e.g. there would be not only seal but also something for finishing,
etc).
Eugene



From kenr@yarmouth.engr.sgi.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:49 EST 1997
Article: 193124 of rec.woodworking
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From: kenr@yarmouth.engr.sgi.com (Ken Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source: Bartleys wood filler or your favorite...
Date: 28 Mar 1997 18:02:15 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc.
Message-ID: <5hh137$gk2@murrow.corp.sgi.com>
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In article <01bc3aeb$f4125920$259210d0@pentium>, "Michael T. Breen"
<breenmt@fuse.net> writes:

|> Saw norm on the tube with a half gal. of a wood filler he tinted for some
|> Mohogany project he was on.  Everybody at the other stores wants to sell me
|> DAP or Elmer's wood filler - get real here!
|> 
|> Is there a mail order or web location for these or maybe your favorite
|> pore/grain filler?
|> 


coincidentally enough, I was just looking for a tinted pore wood filler,
andgot a catalog from a mail-order place mentioned in the "suppliers"
section of Bob Flexner's book; its called Liberon, and their toll-free
number is 800-245-5611.  I just got the catalog and haven't ordered
anything from them, but from talking to them on the phone when I was
getting the catalog they seem pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

-- Ken



-- 
____________________________________________________________________
Ken Rose  (kenr@engr.sgi.com)
The Usual Disclaimer:  Any opinions expressed above are mine alone,
                       not those of Silicon Graphics


From chasm@insync.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:50 EST 1997
Article: 193125 of rec.woodworking
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From: chasm@insync.net (CL Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accumiter Gauge / bar slot slop
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 18:02:05 GMT
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my problem is just the opposite,  My bar slot is too tight for the bar so I
have had to draw file the bar.
Anyone else have this problem?
thanks
chas

___________________________________________________
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From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Wed Apr  2 12:02:51 EST 1997
Article: 193126 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good jig saws?????
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:15:10 -0500
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In article <stamp-2703972143470001@10.0.2.15>,
Mark Stamp <stamp@zombie.ncsc.mil> wrote:
>
>Can anyone suggest a good jig saw? I was considering
>the Dewalt DW321k (about $168, mail order). Any suggestions
>in this price range would be most welcome. Thanks.

>From  what I've observed:
 
1.) Everyone who has bought the Bosch 158X series jigsaws has been
    fairly well satisfied (with rare exceptions) with the purchase.
 
2.) The Bosch 158X series jigsaws can usually be found with similar
    or better pricing to the DeWalt (though now that the Xmas specials
    are over for the year, maybe not) via mail order, anyway (and 
    usually a package deal involving Bosch blades and a metal case
    can be had for a marginal increase in price).
 
3.) A few folks who bought the new DeWalt jigsaw have reported (in
    rec.ww) returning them and getting the Bosch instead and being
    happier (for whatever reasons) with the Bosch. One person, if I
    recall correctly, mentioned not being happy with ease with which
    blade deflection happens on the DeWalt, stated or implied that
    the blade support wasn't as good on the DeWalt, and was happier
    with the Bosch they bought after returning the DeWalt.
 
Given that most everyone who has the Bosch 158X has been happy with the
jigsaw and usually can't think of any way it could be radically
improved, it would seem to be the way to go IMHO. If nothing else,
there is a far greater base of good experience over a much longer
period of time with the Bosch than the others (i.e. we know the unit
has been durable for the vast majority of owners who have bothered to
post). So, all other things being fairly equal (I wouldn't make price
difference much of a factor unless it is >15 - 20%), I'd probably go
for the Bosch 1584VS (barrel handle) or Bosch 1587VS (top handle).  The
"dustless" models (with vacuum hookup) are the 1584DVS and the
1587DVS.

Based on the few rec.ww reports on the DeWalt, it would seem that the
few folks who have owned both define the Bosch as the better unit.
 
Personal perspective: I have a 1584VS and it seems to do everything I
need from a jigsaw (used it a while back to remove a stubborn PVC
coupling from a toilet tank -- used it last to cut some 1 3/4" thick
red oak).

$168 should allow you to mail order a Bosch 1584VS or a 1587VS from a
mail order house like "International Tool Corporation" or "Woodworkers
Supply" with a case and some blades (they usually have a bundle deal of
some sort going). In fact, the ITC ad on P. 113 of the March/April
"Fine Woodworking", The 1584VSW or the 1587VSW, your choice, which
includes the jigsaw, case, and 10 blades is $159 (US dollars). ITC
usually ships for free on orders over $50, as I recall.

[This post composed 70% or more from recycled bits of previous postings]
-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From jd@ftp.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:52 EST 1997
Article: 193127 of rec.woodworking
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From: james j duprie <jd@ftp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Shops
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:12:45 -0500
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does any one know abouyt the legal implications of doing such a thing?
I'm in the process of building a (largish) shop, and had thought
about allowing some of the local folks to use it a bit.
	Things that make me hesitate:
		liability insurance (and liability in general)
		others using my tools
		health risks/hazards of woodworking

Any thoughts?
		JD


From Chumly@jaws.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:54 EST 1997
Article: 193128 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chumly@jaws.net
Subject: HELP!  Super Eraser source?
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Years back I bought an abrasive block that looked like a black eraser and was 
the best tool ever for cleaning rust and corrosion from stationary tools.  
I've asked at a number of supply houses and no one seems to know what
I'm talking about,

Does anyone know where I can find this or a similar product?

Chris

chumly@nji.com


From *davefr@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:55 EST 1997
Article: 193129 of rec.woodworking
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From: *davefr@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
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I'm just the opposite.  I will give my business to the warehouse club
(usually PriceCostco)  first as long as it is the best price for what
I'm buying.

Reasons:
1. It is the warehouse club that has proactively priced the product at
the lowest cost by following a low overhead business model.
(I generally don't like to give business to someone that matches
price.  Anyone can match price, I want the best price at the outset.)

2. I want the warehouse clubs to thrive.  I like the model of low
margins, low overhead, no advertsing, and quality name brands.
  


>In the short run, I can theoretically save a few bucks and some hassle by
>buying from Sam's Club limited selection of refrigerators.  The tradeoff is
>that the appliance store that I rely on for service and parts might fail
>eventually.  What I do is to first obtain the Sam's Club price and then give
>the appliance store the right to match that price, if I'm willing to buy the
>Sam's Club item.  This at least gives the smaller profit to the appliance
>store and helps to keep it in business. 
>
>Do others of you feel this way?



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:02:55 EST 1997
Article: 193130 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
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Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
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In article <01bc3b9e$760d83c0$c5ade1cc@kulinek> "eugene kulinek" <kulinek@mtnlake.com> writes:
>From: "eugene kulinek" <kulinek@mtnlake.com>
>Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:48:10 GMT


>I also want to apply seal + wax or maybe some other type of finish instead
>of wax (e.g. Dura seal has something that is not wax hence can be easier
>repaired). I phoned some floor manufacturers, Bruce and Mirrage, and yes
>you have to explain a lot as most of their business is in urethane floors.
>Urathane is a nusance when someone has kids playing with car toys and dogs.
>It will scratch for sure so why bother.


An interesting comment, and I wonder why you would write that.  The vast 
majority of hardwood floors are finished with PU.  The reason is lack of 
maintenance required.


>So you are not alone in this. I talked to some builders and some agreed
>that seal+finish solvent (ala wax) is a better approach when you have lot
>of wear on the floor. 

But most didn't, I'd wager.  On  the contrary, I would not use wax unless I 
DIDN'T have much wear.  Wax scratches real easily, and the frequent stripping 
and rewaxing is too much trouble for most folks.

When I grew up, every house had a 3/4" red oak floor standard.  This was an 
era when oak was recognized for what it was, and is: a utility wood - well 
before it got fashionable.  An oak floor, then, was considered a basic element 
of a house, not the trendy luxury that it usually considered today.

Varnishes that stood up well to floor use didn't exist, so the floors were 
waxed.  I remember my mom hated the chore of stripping and rewaxing (who 
wouldn't?), and her (like most people) used large rugs.  Wall-to-wall carpet 
was not yet common, but once it was, everyone had to have it - no more waxing!

It's interesting that some have come full circle - actually preferring (or 
thinking that they will) the maintenance to the PU look.  I try to use a 
finish that's appropriate for the use.  Although I greatly prefer the look of 
an oil finish to PU on furniture, jewelry boxes, and even trim, I varnish my 
floors with PU.

 Why?  Once completely dry (allow a couple weeks, at least), 
it's very durable.  My floors were finished 10 years ago, and still look good. 
And then there's resistance to spills, and moisture.  I finished my window 
sills with PU, since they get wet often, and they're horizontal.  Standing 
water on a plain oil finish is real bad news.

If I had no kids, I might be inclined to favor pure aesthetics and tradition 
over function.  But I do, and I prefer to play with them, than doing floor 
finish maintenance.

>I have applied urethanne (2 coats) on pine stairs 8 y ago and now it wears
>off on the edges a lot. Urethane is not any harder if base (pine) is soft. 

Pine is not a good choice for stairs, or even floors - unless you don't mind 
lots of dents and fast wear.  And, 2 coats of PU isn't enough for stair edges, 
especially pine.  But despite these flaws, you got 8 years out of it, and yet 
you're complaining?  Hmmm.  Wax would start to wear off of stair edges in a 
matter of weeks.

The look of PU also depends on the varnish used, and how it is applied.  
Certainly it's easier to apply to horizontal surfaces, just as oil is.  It's 
not difficult to get a very smooth, glob free application on a floor, even 
with oil-based.  

Water-based PU is highly self-leveling, so it's a breeze to get a smooth coat, 
as long as you keep a wet edge, which can get tricky, given the short set-up 
time.  OTOH, water-based is clear, so you don't get that 'golden oak' look 
that so many people like.  It's personal preference.

As for odor, any oil-based finish smells bad, and can make some people dizzy 
and nauseous.  Water-based still smells, but much less, and it goes away 
quicker.

I wouldn't finish my floors in the winter, because I consider ventilation a 
must.  I open strategic windows, and use a box fan to pull fresh air in.  
Basically, two days or so of odors is a small price for ten years of use.

Rich



From mberkson@ti.com, mitchb@ids.net Wed Apr  2 12:02:56 EST 1997
Article: 193131 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mitch Berkson <mitchb@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to mount on/off switch box on Unisaw?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:46:02 -0500
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It seems like this should be pretty obvious, but it's not to me.  On a
new Unisaw with a Unifence, where is the switch box with the on/off
buttons mounted?  In some pictures it is shown mounted on the saw
enclosure, which would be fine, but there are no holes for that.  

It could be mounted with the same screw that holds the Unifence on, but
that wouldn't be too structurally great since the sort of flimsy switch
box mounting bracket would be sandwiched onto the same screw holding the
Unifence to the saw table.

Thanks for any help.

Mitch


From jlhargr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:57 EST 1997
Article: 193132 of rec.woodworking
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From: jlhargr@aol.com (JLHargr)
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Subject: Re: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
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Bill,

The step up from a direct drive saw to a contractor saw is great!  I have
a Delta contractor saw that is about 8 years old and it is in excellent
working order despite several move and being mishandled (dropped actually)
at the hands of a moving company.  

The saw is bone stock and will suit me just fine 'til I make my second
million and can afford a Unisaw to go with it.  The first million?  Oh, I
had to give up on ever making that. 

Regards,
Red


From kulinek@mtnlake.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:58 EST 1997
Article: 193133 of rec.woodworking
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From: "eugene kulinek" <kulinek@mtnlake.com>
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
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Can you tell me the title of this book. I am also looking for info on this
topic. Thanks for advice. I need some literature to back up use of
non-urethane finish.
Eugene

> 
> Allow me to quote from a Chemical Publishing book on shellac.  
> 
> <begin quote>
> 
> The traditional use of shellac on floors goes back to the historic
> buildings of England where the wooden surfaces have been shellacked
> for many years.  This process was carried to America where shellacked
> floors of the fine drawing rooms of the oldest homes have stood for
> many years and appeared neither white nor cracked.  In order to better
> style the homes of today, it is often necessary to stain and finish
> the wood to complement the rest of the decoration.  A well finished
> shellac floor is a soft textured addition to any scheme of decoration,
> as the use of white shellac does not cover but rather enhance the
> beauty of natural patterns.
> 
> One of the many reasons why shellac is preferred for floor finishing
> is the sealing action inherent in this natural resin.  A thin coat of
> shellac actually penetrates the surface of the wood, becoming part of
> the upper layer of interlaced cells, and after drying, it bonds with
> the wood to a surface this is hard nad yet pliable.  Furthermore, this
> ability, is proof against chipping and turning white.  The durability
> of shellac, properly applied, is excellent.  Shellac should be applied
> in the proper cut, generally a 2 pound cut for the first coat and
> allowed to dry for at least and hour.  The second coat should dry
> longer, and even longer for the remaining coats.
> 
> Waxed floors that have had the wax applied directly to the raw wood
> will arken steadily with age since the soft wax finsh permits the dirt
> to penetrate through it into the wood pores.
> 
> Therefore, all floors that are to be waxed should first be sealed with
> shellac before wax is applied.  This prevents dirt from pnetrating
> into the wood.  From time to time the soiled wax coating can be
> removed as readily as old polish is removed from shoes by sponging
> with mineral spirits.  Rewaxed, the floor should regain its new
> appearance.  Thus when a wax finish is desired, the floor should first
> receive at least one thin coat of shellac and probably two.
> 
> <end of quote>
> 
> I have more if you need.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
>


From john.beatty@med.ge.com Wed Apr  2 12:02:59 EST 1997
Article: 193134 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John D. Beatty" <john.beatty@med.ge.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Woodworking Series
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 12:57:05 -0800
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Michael and MJ Houghton wrote:
> 
> In article <5gajci$352@bartlett.televar.com>,
> John Schneider  <jackfir@televar.com> wrote:
> >I have an ad for the Time Life Woodworking series. Is there anyone out there that has
> >purchased it. Is it as good as advertized? 

The most impressive things about the series are the graphics and
simplicity.  
The actual content is covered better and in more detail elsewhere, but
when 
you're a fumble-fingered weekend wood butcher like me it's sure nice to
look
 at what it's supposed to look like.  And true, some of the jigs are
real neat.

If you've got the bucks by all means get 'em, but they're not essential.

-- 
JD Beatty     West Allis, Wisconsin, USA
john.beatty@med.ge.com     jdbeatty@execpc.com
Beatty's Maxim:  The only sources of historical truth are time machines
and faith.  The trick is knowing which one you're working with.


From dvogel@lucent.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:00 EST 1997
Article: 193135 of rec.woodworking
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From: dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R. Vogel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: 28 Mar 1997 18:41:07 GMT
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In article <5hgt6c$fl5@lu3.in.net>,
Mort Tenon <mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com> wrote:
>In article <5hgie7$g5p@nntpa.cb.lucent.com>, dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com 
>says...
>
>>Anyone have the Rodale "Router Magic" book by Bill Hylton?
>>How does it compare to router books that I've seen at retail
>>bookstores?
>
>I flipped through it in Waldenbooks last weekend. Router Magic is a 
>collection of special purpose jigs and accessories for routing. (Ten or so, 
>I think). They are innovative and if you do a lot with your router, it is 
>worth the price they ask. Hylton's books are always top-notch (IMHO).
>
>I've learned long ago that you dance with the devil when you deal with 
>publishers by mail-order. Now days, I'm willing to pay extra at the 
>booksellers just to stay away from those nasty "urgent" notices I always got 
>when I declined to re-subscribe to a magazine or returned those unsolicited 
>books I was sent "on approval".

Do you recall how much it was a Walden?  You imply it was more by your
comment about paying more rather tahn buying mailorder.

Thanks.

Dennis Vogel


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:01 EST 1997
Article: 193136 of rec.woodworking
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193136

In article <01bc3b86$70b5f280$0fa685d0@rasarisi>, "Richard J. Asarisi"
<rasari@ct2.mai.net> wrote:
> 
> Lets see I made the Corner Cabinet and the Hutch too.  The corner about 5
> years ago, still looks and works great, certainly hasn't fallen apart.  The
> Hutch about 3 1/2 years go and it looks more beautiful everyday, again
> certainly not falling apart.


About 20 years ago I made a plum and rosewood box for my sister.   I didn't
understand about wood movement then, and so I built it using the same type
of techniques that Norm used in his early shows.  The box looked lovely for
about 10 years, and then it had the misfortune of being moved from dry
Southern California to Oregon.  The expansion caused several joints to
fail.

I recently moved from Arizona to Ohio...  To top it off, I bought an old
Civil War era farmhouse that is low on the insulation department.  So we
wore a lot of sweaters and didn't heat it a lot.  AND, until we installed
French drains this last few months there was standing water in the
basement.  Needless to say the humidty was VERY HIGH this winter.   Going
>from  arrid Arizona to DAMP Ohio caused a lot of modern furniture built
using cross grain construction to fail.  However, most of the older
antiques that had been constructed with an eye to wood movement survived
the move.

My purpose for posting about wood movement is NOT to rag on Norm, per se'. 
Norm seems like a nice guy.  And it certainly isn't to give Bennett an
opportunity to make racist and anti-semitic remarks.  I am simply trying to
help other people learn from my mistakes. 

Failure due to wood movement doesn't generally happen in minutes.  Nor will
it neccesarily happen in a year or two, especially if the furniture is in
an environment with stable conditions.   But it will happen.

Let's retake this poll in 10, 20 and 50 years and see the results.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:02 EST 1997
Article: 193137 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
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In article <5heg96$nfg@enquirer.corp.adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett
Leeds) wrote:
> 
> Tom Perigrin writes
> >... So we will see a whole bunch of
> > people making mediochre cabinetry which will fall apart in a few years.  
> 
> It's been more than "a few years" since Norm's first shows were aired. 

Bennet,

As you should know, I tend to look at things in the 20 - 300 year range. 
Your definition of a "few years" seems to be different from my definition
of a "few years".

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:03 EST 1997
Article: 193138 of rec.woodworking
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In article <333B2602.78BA@leopard.com>, Steve Koschmann
<stevek@leopard.com> wrote:
>

> Tom, it isnt that hard... try to wipe the door down with lacquer
> thinnner or tupentine.  I would use turpentine...

Okay... give the little monsters rags and lacquer thinner or turpentine.

Tom

------

Due to the increasing prevelance of bulk mail senders that automatically
extract names from newsgroup postings, I have had to "bugger" my e-mail
address.   To send email directly to me, please remove the "*" in my e-mail
address.


From bryan.d.johnson@boeing.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:04 EST 1997
Article: 193139 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
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Foxeye wrote:
> 
>....I
> substituted SS rivets for the supplied axles, and polished them where
> the wheel contacts them...a true round hole is a must, as well as
> having an axle (button head SS rivet) that fits the wheels axle hole
> without to much slop, but rotates very free *without* any sideplay or
> wobble.  

As an ex scout with disquallification experience, I wouldn't swap out
the axels ever again!  (Got to the final race & someone whined about my
axels -- didn't even get second place)


From ctwest@usgs.gov Wed Apr  2 12:03:05 EST 1997
Article: 193140 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: ctwest@usgs.gov (Chris West)
Subject: Re: SKIL woodworking tools:  Cheap enough - are they junky?
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I think you'll be ok with the Skil for what you have described. I have a few of
their tools and they have held up through my moderate weekend usage. I had an
old circular saw of thiers that I put through hell. I was pleased with how long it
lasted. good luck 


Matt Verrochi (Verrochi@tiac.net) wrote:
: I was in the Grossamans Bargain Outlet and saw a Skil belt sander for $40.  I'm not really impressed by the quality of the
: only other Skil product I've owned - which was a power screwdriver which had the switch break on it.

: Basically, I only intend to use this occasionally, rather rarely, if you will.  Is thing any good for light occasional use or
: should I just suck-it-up and buy somethng with decent quality for 3 times the price.

: Please bear in mind - this will only receive occasional, light use.

: Thanks
:  
:  Matt

: Verrochi@tiac.net
: RC Cars, Parts and Radios for Sale at:
:           http://www.tiac.net/users/verrochi/RCSALE.htm


--
Chris West                  
ctwest@usgs.gov
opinions expressed are mine and not my employers.


From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:06 EST 1997
Article: 193141 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 10:41:27 -0800
Organization: Titan Information Systems Corporation
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rbowles96@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>, winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) writes:
> 
> >
> >So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from
> >people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could
> >comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.

> My BT3000 is 5 years old and I appreciate the portability it lends.
> I could not have a saw in the middle of the garage so it gets "parked" 
> against the wall al[snip]
Hmmm...does the AOL newreader not support the <cr> character?  ;^>

This is an interesting point.  When it came time for me to upgrade my
TS, it became terribly obvious to me that my only choice was a cabinet
saw, as I didn't have room to store a contractor's saw against my garage
wall and still get my truck inna de gae-raj.  Ya see, I cabinet saw is
about a foot shorter front to back than a contractor's saw, and this was the
dimension that I cared about...I didn't really wanna make the fender of
my truck conform to the form factor of the TS motor...So I have my Unisaw
on a mobile base, and it tucks up tightly against the wall when not in use.
I found it highly portable (constrained to the fact that it never leaves 
my garage...dunno if that fits *your* definition of portable).  Perhaps
portable is a bad word...perhaps "stowable" is better.

But in any case, all other things being equal, the Unisaw is head and
shoulders above the Grizz, which is prolly head and shoulders above the
Ryobi.  But this is not to say that the Ryobi is a POS...there are lotsa
folks here who are happy with their BT3000...but they prolly want a bigger
saw someday...

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From ktucker*@scsn.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:07 EST 1997
Article: 193142 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
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>
>But most didn't, I'd wager.  On  the contrary, I would not use wax unless I 
>DIDN'T have much wear.  Wax scratches real easily, and the frequent stripping 
>and rewaxing is too much trouble for most folks.

Somewhat labor intensive (althought with a motorized buffer, certainly no more 
than running a vacuum across rugs), but the results are worth it - even in 
high-traffic areas.  Our museum has 90 year-old oak (and heart pine) floors 
that have not been varnished in 47 years - just monthly applications of wax 
with a buffer.  They look great, though certainly not as glossy and pristine 
as a sanded and polyed surface...


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From RONDOT@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU Wed Apr  2 12:03:08 EST 1997
Article: 193143 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry Rondot <RONDOT@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
Subject: DeWalt Chop saw question
Lines: 15
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193143

Greetings,

I bought at an auction a 250mm DeWalt power miter box (Catalog number 7716)
"Type 1".  It has a nice Delta thin kerf blade on it, but needs sharpening.

Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade with pliers
I can't get the nut loose.

The center of the arbor seems like it might be a star driver.  Do I need a
special adaptor/tool to hold the arbor in place to remove the blade?

Thanks for any comments...

Larry Rondot
Rondot@VMB.IPFW.Indiana.Edu


From summitt@NETASIA.COM Wed Apr  2 12:03:09 EST 1997
Article: 193144 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Summitt <summitt@NETASIA.COM>
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Subject: Figured Red Gum
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193144

I'm desperately searching for 4/4 Figured Red Gum, KD S2S or S4S.  With
Red Gum, the "Figured" usually just means quarter-sawn.  I'm located in
SoCal, and realize that I'll probably have to go mail order, and am
prepared to do so.  Need approx. 200 - 250 b.f., net tally.  Anyone out
there know where I can get some, please let me know.

Thanks - Mark Summitt


From mrcynick@vabch.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:10 EST 1997
Article: 193145 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Spam does hurt us (Was Re: Nailing Spamers)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 14:59:50 -0500
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BAYCITVIDGRP wrote:
> 
>      All this fuss over words appearing on screen that
>      are not wanted.  Then just hit the "delete" key
>      and away they go.

The ordinary reader can't delete a newsgroup posting.
 
>      Just by the subject line you should be able to
>     see who is calling at your door?

Many spammers disguise themselves by using false names & reply
addresses, so that we *don't* know who is knocking until we let them in,
and we can't report them to appropriate authorities because we don't
know who or where they really are.

>      why get upset at what is not injuring you?

Spam, and especially mass cross-postings like this one, does injure us. 
It uses up huge amounts of bandwidth and server space which could be
carrying legitimate data that somebody actually wants.  It slows down
the entire internet.  It's irritating.  It wastes our time.  If our
internet-access time is limited, or charged for by the hour, it costs us
money.

>      Accept it and then it will go away.

Who's naive now?


>      bill conduit
>      the 'etc' guy
>      sometimes called the 'arrogant guy"

No surprise there! ; ) 

We can do something about spam.  There needs to be legislation similar
to that regulating telephone sales, to prohibit spammers from using
false names & addresses, and to require that they honor requests from
newsgroups and individuals not to send them any more spam.


-- 
Best wishes,

Jim Crutchfield
Norfolk, Virginia
http://vabch.com/mrcynick


From donnay@uhs.umass.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:11 EST 1997
Article: 193146 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerome R Yezierski <donnay@uhs.umass.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tablesaw  for wheelchair user
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:10:10 -0500
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I looking for feedback on what would be a tablesaw of choice for a
woodworker that is now in a wheelchair.
  What TS has the largest table do once the wood is cut it doesn't fall
on the floor causing me to move around to the other side of the TS.
  I have been using a RAS with plenty of ease but I'm looking for
accuracy in ripping and crosscuts.
   I have used an antique Craftsmen to see if I would like a TS.Problem
being reaching to hold the cut wood so it doesn't fall on the floor.I
don't want to cut my hand/arms now that they do double duty as legs
also.
    I've seen TS with extensions for the left/right sides of the table
but nothing on the outfeed side.
     Ok you TS guru's help me out please.
  TIA
Jerome


From pmichael@hotmail.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:12 EST 1997
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On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:52:02 GMT, Verrochi@tiac.net  (Matt Verrochi) wrote:
> On 27 Mar 1997 13:07:53 GMT, pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2) wrote:
> 
> >In article <33395B3C.4127@aloha.com>,
  Does anway have any input to offer?
> 
> 
 
Turn off the smoke detector!


--

Posted using Reference.COM                         http://www.reference.com
Browse, Search and Post         Usenet and Mailing list Archive and Catalog.

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From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:14 EST 1997
Article: 193148 of rec.woodworking
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From: foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw  for wheelchair user
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:31:33 GMT
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It should not be all that hard to add an outfeed table to any saw, no
difference in adding left and right tables on a RAS.  I have 16 foot
extensions on my RAS and added a 4' outfeed table to my TS made from
angle aluminum with alum tube rollers.  Whether in a wheelchair or on
legs, it has proven handy to me as well.  

Jerome R Yezierski <donnay@uhs.umass.edu> wrote:

>I looking for feedback on what would be a tablesaw of choice for a
>woodworker that is now in a wheelchair.
>  What TS has the largest table do once the wood is cut it doesn't fall
>on the floor causing me to move around to the other side of the TS.
>  I have been using a RAS with plenty of ease but I'm looking for
>accuracy in ripping and crosscuts.
>   I have used an antique Craftsmen to see if I would like a TS.Problem
>being reaching to hold the cut wood so it doesn't fall on the floor.I
>don't want to cut my hand/arms now that they do double duty as legs
>also.
>    I've seen TS with extensions for the left/right sides of the table
>but nothing on the outfeed side.
>     Ok you TS guru's help me out please.
>  TIA
>Jerome

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:15 EST 1997
Article: 193149 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:39:40 GMT
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You point is obviously well taken.  However, warehouse clubs offer a very
limited selection in things such as appliances and tools.  Our local Sam's,
for instance, sells a few Makita products and some DeWalt.  While I could walk
into Sam's and pick up a Makita drill, for instance, I can price-match at a
Woodworker's Supply and have the same product.  The difference is that the
profit goes to a store that caters to my OTHER needs- hence helping to insure
that they'll be there when I want to buy something more difficult to locate,
such as a miter gauge for a tablesaw.

Tom

*davefr@mindspring.com wrote:
>I'm just the opposite.  I will give my business to the warehouse club
>(usually PriceCostco)  first as long as it is the best price for what
>I'm buying.

>Reasons:
>1. It is the warehouse club that has proactively priced the product at
>the lowest cost by following a low overhead business model.
>(I generally don't like to give business to someone that matches
>price.  Anyone can match price, I want the best price at the outset.)

>2. I want the warehouse clubs to thrive.  I like the model of low
>margins, low overhead, no advertsing, and quality name brands.
>  

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:16 EST 1997
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Go to www.forteinc.com and download the Free Agent NewsReader.
Then you will have No reason to complain about deletion or bandwidth
problems. No connection with above except I use it!!
Have a Pleasant Weekend...
remove X to reply


From mrcynick@vabch.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:17 EST 1997
Article: 193151 of rec.woodworking
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From: MrCynick <mrcynick@vabch.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Uncle Sam says no more Mahogany ?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:45:12 -0500
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Michael Rainville wrote:
> 

> It is my understanding that they are "ripping and burning entire
> forests" to have open land for more people and cattle. If this is the
> case, mahogany is simply a by-product of this process and if it is
> given no value on the open market (import restrictions) then it too
> will be burned. IMHO limitations are another "feel good" solution to a
> very real, but complicated, problem.
 
Much of the clear-cutting of rain forests in this hemisphere is being
done by huge Asian logging corporations which have already wiped out
most of the big tracts of forest in their own countries. 

Even if it were only for agriculture, though, clearing rain forests and
displacing or destroying thousands of living species, just to make
grazing land for cattle, is a horribly wasteful method of producing
luxury food.  People are raping the rain forests because they have
depleted the soil in other areas by other wasteful practices.  Misguided
or greedy third-world governments encourage this waste because it's
cheaper for them than teaching sustainable farming methods, and because
they get the revenue from timber sales (even though the land often
belongs to indigenous peoples). 

> 30 years of substandard education in the US has left us with a
> population that can't think its way out of a cardboard box. We are
> left with "feelings" but no ability to find logical solutions to
> problems and no ability to understand there are things that the
> government has no real business trying to "fix".

Your education may be substandard, but speak for yourself.  There are
lots of very well-educated people proposing logical and workable
solutions to this kind of problem.  Import restrictions can work very
well if consistently enforced. 

I believe there are lots of problems that governments are not best
suited to solve, but this isn't one of them.  Without government
intervention, the free market will never force destructive industries to
pay their real cost of doing business.  The free market allows them to
make us bear the costs of environmental degradation, including topsoil
depletion, silting of waterways, global warming, flooding, and all the
effects on human health that come with them.

> I have used mahogany in the past, finding it very efficient to use for
> a particular application. Having hit some resistence to its use we
> found a domestic wood that substituted okay. It made no difference to
> people that it took twice a much lumber to make the same item due to
> inherent defects in the wood. Of course now even native spieces need
> to be certified "green" to be okay to some people. Yet my area is
> being taken over by forests and trees aren't being harvested as fast
> as they are growing.

Using mahogany only seemed efficient because you didn't have to pay for
the environmental damage.

You don't say what area you live in, but around here old fields get
filled up with scrub pine and other "second-growth" vegetation, which is
no replacement--ecologically or commercially--for the diverse old-growth
forest we once had.  In the tropics, once a rainforest is cleared, it
can't grow back without intensive human intervention.  It gets replaced
by a handfull of aggressive species which grow up fast and never let the
more slow-growing vegetation (such as mahogany and other coveted
hardwoods) get established.

While American woodworkers are not the real bad guys in the destruction
of the rain forests, we _will_ suffer the consequences, along with the
rest of the world, and we _can_ do our bit to help stop it.  Here are
three things we can all do:

1. Use native and non-endangered woods whenever possible.  If you must
use a tropical wood, use only what is certified as coming from a managed
plantation, not from wild rain forest.

2. Write your Congressmen and Senators urging them to ban importation of
wood from wild rainforests.  This will provide an incentive for
establishing more managed timber plantations and the planting, rather
than the destruction, of rainforest species. Also ask for sanctions
against foreign states that allow destructive logging in their
rainforests.

3.  Support private efforts to protect rainforests, such as the Nature
Conservancy and the World Wildlife Fund.

We don't need to save the earth.  The earth will be here, no matter
what.  What we have to save from ecological disaster is *ourselves*.

-- 
Best wishes,

Jim Crutchfield
Norfolk, Virginia
http://vabch.com/mrcynick


From rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:18 EST 1997
Article: 193152 of rec.woodworking
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From: rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Randy Reid)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Date: 28 Mar 1997 20:58:32 GMT
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Can anybody out there give me the formula for figuring out the angles to
construct a four sided pyramid?  I know there is one but for the life of
me I can't find it.  Thanks for any help you may be.
 e-mail to :    rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu

-- 
rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu


From Laura92494@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:03:19 EST 1997
Article: 193153 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:05:13 -0500
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Nola Beckum <Laura92494@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Scrollsaw Patterns
Lines: 11
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Hello ...

There are many good book of patterns available, from those for the beginner,
up to those who are ready for more advanced cutting.  Check your local home
improvement stores (HQ, Home Depot, Sear Hardware, Lowes, etc.) and you
should be able to find them.  I have used these books and have also used
children's color books, changing the patterns to suit me.

Another place to check, is if you have a good book store, such as Barnes &
Noble or Waldrens.  They have books for the scroll saw as well.

Good luck!


From haver@dartmouth.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:20 EST 1997
Article: 193154 of rec.woodworking
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From: haver@dartmouth.edu (Rick Haver)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wooden Floor in Maple HELP!!!!!
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:16:41 -0500
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In article <MPG.da23768ca8f8ab9989680@news.ping.be>, gd@ppp.com (Geert
Deleu) wrote:

hi,
I am busy pasting wood strips of about 1/2 inch thick and 3" width on a 
wooden surface to make a wooden floor.
I am glueing them on the surface with PolyVinylAcetaat glue...the classic 
wood glue. Also am I naling them every 2 feet with 3 nails!
Now here comes the problem: When i glue and nail them  on the underground 
everything seems normal, the joints are closed and the boards are flat, 
BUT afther about 3 hours the joints come open and the boards begin to 
curl in there width (not there length) if you could look at the boards in 
section they would look like a U-shape...

Geert.deleu@ping.be

**************************

 I imagine its the glue. Its water-based and causes the underside to swell.
If you must use an adhesive use a construction mastic. It'll help keep squeaks
>from  developing.

Rick Haver


From efleblanc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:20 EST 1997
Article: 193155 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward LeBlanc" <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuits
Date: 28 Mar 1997 21:27:41 GMT
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John, I have been pleased with the Lamello biscuits.  Your post about
variations in thickness made wonder so I just grabbed a handful of #10
biscuits and my dial calipers.  They result was a variation of about +/-
0.007 inches.  I say about because I was not that meticulous about
collecting and tabulating the data.  These biscuits are sold under various
names, but are easy to identify because they are stamped with "lamello" on
one side.

I store the biscuits in Tupperware type containers to prevent them from
absorbing moisture from the atmosphere and swelling.

The only other brand that I have used was Porter Cable and I did not
particularly care for them.  It seems that they were not uniformly pressed
and the quality just wasn't as good as the Lamello.

Regards,

Ed

John Paquay <jep@physics.purdue.edu> wrote in article
<5hgo0s$cj6@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>...
> It's about time for me to re-stock on bicuits.  I'd love to
> get some feedback on whose bicuits are the best quality
> in terms of uniform (and appropriate) sizing.  The last batch
> I bought (cheapies) varied by as much as .045" in thickness,
> and I'd like to avoid that disaster this time...
snip
> -- 
> John Paquay
> jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
> http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
>             --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 


From wgriffin@uwf.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:21 EST 1997
Article: 193156 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bill Griffin" <wgriffin@uwf.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building a new workshop!  where?
Date: 27 Mar 1997 20:06:25 GMT
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In the process of retiring and will build a home. Currently have a 2.5 car
garage that is getting overcrowded with tools. In preparation for final
home, I built a 40 x 60 shop building that is separate from the planned
house. It is metal sheathed and roofed with a concrete slab. Built in the
slab are vacuum lines, water, sewage, 220/110V lines and a pvc pipe with a
pull string to connect to the eventual house (cables, phone or anything
else I want to pull between the buildings in the future). There will be an
upstairs office over the evential shop. It is weathered in and I will be
moving my tools there in a few months from now. Elected for the separate
building to keep noise and dust down in the house and to enable me to have
growth/project room. I can also park my pickup in it very easily (even a
fishing boat). This may not be your best option but it is one I have
thought about for a long time and is the one I finally opted for.

Martin A. Escarcega <opencon@primenet.com> wrote in article
<5h6t3v$il2@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>...
> A standalone building worked for me. I scrounged an old split system
> air conditioner winters aren't a problem here. I like it, a little more
> private, most definitely more quite for those in the house. Basement
shops
> tend to be noisy for the house, (people sleeping) and I hear the dust
> travels upward, sooo, I dunno how your better half would feel about that!
> :-)
> 
> Marty
> 
> Dave Scholten <scholten@onramp.i2k.com> wrote:
> : I'm in the process of designing a new house.  The question I keep 
> : coming to is where to put my woodworking shop.  Options are:
> 
> : 1. 20x30 barn
> : 2. Under the 24x30 garage
> : 3. behind the garage attached to the house.
> : 4. in the basement someplace.
> 
> 
> : I see pro's and cons of all of the places: cost, humidity,
heating/cooling,
> : accessibility, etc.  I live in Michigan so we do get the weather
extremes.
> 
> : Where is the ideal place?  Has anybody else thought about this?
> 
> : Thanks,
> : David Scholten
> 
> 
> --
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> Martin A. Escarcega                       __  __     ____  ___       ___
____
> opencon@primenet.com                     /__)/__) / / / / /_  /\  / /_   
/
>                                         /   / \  / / / / /__ /  \/ /___ 
/
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> 


From mike_tripp@dell.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:22 EST 1997
Article: 193157 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike_tripp@dell.com (Mike Tripp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to mount on/off switch box on Unisaw?
Date: 28 Mar 1997 21:43:48 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
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In <333C11EA.83C@ids.net>, Mitch Berkson <mitchb@ids.net> writes:

>It could be mounted with the same screw that holds the Unifence on, but
>that wouldn't be too structurally great since the sort of flimsy switch
>box mounting bracket would be sandwiched onto the same screw holding the
>Unifence to the saw table.

That's how it it's "supposed" to be done in order for it to be just "as used by 
Norm Abrahms on New Yankee Workshop".  It really works better than you 
think it will, once it's all firmly bolted together, but a sturdier bracket would 
be nice if you ever have to knee the hell out of the off switch in a panic.

Mike


From mrcynick@vabch.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:23 EST 1997
Article: 193158 of rec.woodworking
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From: MrCynick <mrcynick@vabch.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Shops
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:37:06 -0500
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james j duprie wrote:
> 
> does any one know abouyt the legal implications of doing such a thing?
> I'm in the process of building a (largish) shop, and had thought
> about allowing some of the local folks to use it a bit.
>         Things that make me hesitate:
>                 liability insurance (and liability in general)
>                 others using my tools
>                 health risks/hazards of woodworking
> 
> Any thoughts?
>                 JD

If you know the people well, and trust them to be reasonable if they get
hurt, you probably don't need to worry that much.  Make sure your
homeowner's insurance doesn't exclude injuries to visitors who use your
workshop. (I scarcely think it would, but you never know till you read
the damn policy.)

If you don't know the people well, I wouldn't think you'd let them use
your tools anyway.  If you do, though, you should put up a warning sign
in a conspicuous area saying something like, "WARNING: the tools and
machines in this shop can hurt or kill you.  Exposure to sawdust and
chemicals in this shop can make you sick or even kill you. Be careful! 
If you use this shop or any of these tools or machines, you do it
[BOLD]at your own risk [/bold]."  And make sure to call the sign to the
attention of anybody who uses your shop.

If somebody wants to use your shop a lot, it would be a good idea to get
him to sign a release in which he specifically agrees to hold you
harmless for injuries to himself or to others as a result of his being
in your shop or using your tools, machinery, materials, etc.

It all really depends on who these other folks are.  Among friends, none
of this kind of thing _should_ be necessary, but it sometimes turns out
to be.  Good luck.

-- 
Best wishes,

Jim Crutchfield
Norfolk, Virginia
http://vabch.com/mrcynick


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:24 EST 1997
Article: 193159 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw  for wheelchair user
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:03:07 GMT
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Jerome R Yezierski <donnay@uhs.umass.edu> wrote:

>I looking for feedback on what would be a tablesaw of choice for a
>woodworker that is now in a wheelchair.

Here are several thoughts.  First of all, if you don't plan on doing a lot of
long ripping, have you considered "tipping" the saw toward you a tad to make
the back side of the TS more accessible from the chair?  Even placing the back
legs or cabinet base on a 4X4 would sure help.

I'd also consider a roller outfeed table.  The one I have is a generic model
and swings up for use, and down to permit me to get to the rear of the TS
without stooping.  

If your TS is a Sears-type with the motor at the rear of the table, you might
even consider welding up a cantilever under-table that would permit you to
scoot under the front of the TS with your wheelchair----as you might do with a
slightly elevated kitchen table or workspace.  

To cut down on movement around the shop, consider putting things like your DC
on an X-10 type of on/off control and using a handheld remote control (radio)
to control it, lighting and other remote power needs.  

Good luck and give us some feedback on how you decide to handle it.

Tom

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:25 EST 1997
Article: 193160 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:06:19 GMT
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Download the files about hoppers from my ftp site.

ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl  One file is an excel-type
spreadsheet that calculates the settings based on the number of sides, while
another is based upon the angular differences.  The third file is a printout
of settings for the most common of 3,4,5 6-sided figures with angles ranging
>from  2 degrees upward by 2 degree increments, including 33-1/3 and 45 degrees.

There are some other woodworking files in the site      ftp_anno.txt is the
index file.

Tom


rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Randy Reid) wrote:

>Can anybody out there give me the formula for figuring out the angles to
>construct a four sided pyramid?  I know there is one but for the life of
>me I can't find it.  Thanks for any help you may be.
> e-mail to :    rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu

>-- 
>rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 12:03:26 EST 1997
Article: 193161 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Solar Wood Kiln
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 12:24:27 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Fred Varden wrote:
> 
> I am looking for plans to build solar kiln to dry 250 to 500 bd ft. Can
> anyone out there help?  Thanks

Check out "The Conversion and Seasoning of Wood" by William H. Brown.
It's published by Linden Publishing.  You can order through their 
web site at http://www.lindenpub.com for $16.95.  I just got my copy
two days ago and it should be required reading for anybody wishing to
turn logs into usable boards.  He has some good plans for solar kilns
up to about 1500 bd ft.  Here's the description:

Covers the aspects of timber conversion from the most advantageous
methods of cutting to produce the highest yield, to various methods 
of seasoning including air drying, kiln drying, dehumidification, etc.
This work is directed towards the smaller timber user from the craftsman
to the small timber merchant and landowner. New. Paper. 

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:26 EST 1997
Article: 193162 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:24:17 GMT
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It all depend on how much you value your and others safety!
I have Panic style switches on everything. I have 2 separate panels
for equipment. 1for 120volt and 1for 220volt. Every outlet,plug etc.
is on its own breaker. Yes it is over kill but I am very happy with
it. And realistically if you are building YOUR shop for the long haul
it works out to virtually zero cost in the long run.
Best,dave f..
"Common sense is so...uncommon."FLW
remove X to reply..


From awrobinson@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:27 EST 1997
Article: 193163 of rec.woodworking
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From: awrobinson@aol.com (Awrobinson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need drill press advice
Date: 28 Mar 1997 22:34:25 GMT
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As an aspiring wood worker, I'm in the market for 
a drill press. My budget is about $200. Based on posts 
I've seen on this group, the three brands I've been 
considering are Delta, Jet, and Grizzley. 

The Delta 12 inch bench top would be the default 
choice. It is readily available locally and through 
catalogs, and the cost appears to be in the $170 
to $190 range. Because of some comments I've seen 
in this forum about problems with Delta quality, 
I've been looking into the other two brands.

Grizzley has a 14 inch bench top model with all 
the features of a much larger model: 5/8 inch 
chuck, 12 speeds, etc. The price is right at $190. 
Again, based on comments here, the quality is 
somewhat suspect. The feel I've gotten about
Grizzley products is a qualified endorsement. 
Still, the price was right so I ordered one. 
However, Grizzley called back and said the 
cheapest method of shipping would cost $65. 
$65! That's more than a third of the price of the 
drill press. Woodworkers Supply shipped me a 
Delta Contracter saw last year for about $11. 
I canceled that order.

So then I called Jet and asked about their models. 
Jet seems to be pretty doggone proud of their drill 
presses. The ONLY one for under $200 was the 8 
inch. Plus I've had trouble find vendors of Jet 
equipment.  

The questions I have are  pretty general. Anyone 
have any advice on how to proceed? The intended 
use of the drill press is for a hobby woodworking: 
jigs, boxes, small furniture, maybe the occasional 
piece of larger furniture. Is an 8 inch drill press 
large enough for that? Is the quality of the Jet 
that much better than Delta? Can Grizzley stay 
in business with shipping costs that high?

Many thanks in advance...


Andrew Robinson
---
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine alone and do not represent the views of America Online


From wittco@axionet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:28 EST 1997
Article: 193164 of rec.woodworking
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From: Randy Wittchen <wittco@axionet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: was wood BTUs - gluing bathhouses
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 12:03:48 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------481948809FE
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David Anderson wrote:
> Bath house is outdoors and exposed inside and out to humidity, dirt,
> and ????  I would reccommend using ss screws as you would to assemble
> a deck or any other large scale construction project where seats and
> floors are involved.  Nails would work fine for siding.  What part of
> this bath HOUSE are you planning to glue up?


Hi David

Slight miscommunication here, I believe.  

I believe the poster is asking about a house for BATS (little furry
nocturnal critters) not a house for baths (geisha or otherwise).  On the
other hand I really do not know how large the bats grow in your part of
the country - "Good evening, I don't drink (pause for dramatic effect)
wine".  I have Romanian ancestry on my father's side so I can poke fun
at Dracula.<G>

Randy

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From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:29 EST 1997
Article: 193165 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: alternate glues for plastic laminate
Date: 28 Mar 1997 22:54:17 GMT
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I suppose you mean contact cement.  If so, why?

Sticky Fingers


From gator@atlantic.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:30 EST 1997
Article: 193166 of rec.woodworking
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From: gator@atlantic.net (P. Fernandes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hardwoods in St Pete,FL area
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:22:59 GMT
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I would like to find a good source for wood in the St Petersburg, FL
area. If anyone knows of a place, Please post it here



                                                   Thanks           
                                                                 Gator




From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:31 EST 1997
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Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
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So, what was the point of this posting?

Sticky Fingers


From Odeen@cris.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:32 EST 1997
Article: 193168 of rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fingerprints
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On Fri, 28 Mar 1997, Tom Perigrin wrote:

> In article <333B2602.78BA@leopard.com>, Steve Koschmann
> <stevek@leopard.com> wrote:
> >
> 
> > Tom, it isnt that hard... try to wipe the door down with lacquer
> > thinnner or tupentine.  I would use turpentine...
> 
> Okay... give the little monsters rags and lacquer thinner or turpentine.

My son helped me with finishing of his apron table, and his blue-black
fingerprints are all over the red oak legs. I'm leaving 'em there. It's
much more durable than the plaster of paris handprints they make at
school, and it'll be a nice conversation piece for when his kids (should
he be so unlucky to have any ;^)) when they use it. 





From  Wed Apr  2 12:03:33 EST 1997
Article: 193169 of rec.woodworking
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From: cannell <>
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
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==========Robert Galloway, 3/27/97==========
I've had the PC sander for about 6 mo.  I've worked the hell out of it 
and it seems to be holding up fine.



Same for me. The PC Profile sander does a good job.

 As Robert indicated, the angle profiles eat though the adhesive 
backed  sandpaper quickly. To cut down on the downtime, I have 
taken to cutting off extra long lengths (1.5") off the roll. Then after
I have ground through one linear cross section of the paper, I simply
peel the paper off and shift it 1/4" to a new section of the paper.
Pretty much can use the entire square before I have to stop
and cut another piece.

Also, the rubber profile eventually gets glopped up with dust
sticking to the adhesive. Then, I stop and swab it down with
minieral spirits. I'll probably switch to something else as I 
suspect that spirits are none too good for the rubber.


Eric Cannell
NCR Corp. - Columbia, SC



From gtrg@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:34 EST 1997
Article: 193170 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Which Biscuit (Plate) Joiner to get? Ryobi?
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I've had the Dewalt for several years and I think it's the best thing in
it's price range by a large margin.


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:35 EST 1997
Article: 193171 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
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>> Others have mentioned how important blade tension is and I agree, put
>> more tension on the blade than is suggested. I don't know how your saw
>> shows how much tension is on the blade but tighten it more than it is
>> supposed to have. Crank it up. Use a pipe wrench if it gets hard to
>> turn by hand. (within some sense of reason of course)
>> 
>> After you have the guides aligned very close to the tight blade
>> capturing all of the blade but the hook of the teeth, and raise the
>> guides to just above the piece to be resawn, (shorten your fence if
>> necessary) the blade has no choice but to follow.
>> 
>> theoretically of course.

>> Al


>With a pipe wrench.What kind of trash advice is this?
>Mike Bridges
>locust1@ccipost.net


Mike, 

I know it probably sounds extreme, but the tension handle on my
bandsaw is so small and hard to turn that it is necessary to use
something of length to get enough torque to turn it even a little past
the recommended setting. 

It's not really trash advice at all, I'm just saying  -  use whatever
means necessary to do the job, whether it's by hand or with a pipe
wrench, or whatever.

BTW more tension, IS better.

Al


From rector@nh.ultranet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:35 EST 1997
Article: 193172 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rector" <rector@nh.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bellsaw Planer
Date: 28 Mar 1997 23:18:04 GMT
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Hi!

An individual in my area has a used Bellsaw Planer (12 inch) for
sale.......asking $400 which seems high to me given the current price of
Delta, etc.  I am not familiar with this company and don't know what these
would sell for new.  Anyone know anything about these planers?

Thanks,
Bill


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:36 EST 1997
Article: 193173 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dining Chairs - thanks
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:56:42 GMT
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"bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net> wrote:

;Michael,

;I did not post the original message.  However,  I want to thank you
for
;taking the time to point a fellow woodworker toward reference
material.

;Thanks

;Bill Compton
;bcompton@megalink.net

;Michael John Hide <mikehide@mindspring.com> wrote in article
;<5h8iba$smp@camel1.mindspring.com>...
;> <wmc@kconline.com> wrote:
;> 
;> ;I am a woodworking looking for good plans to make dining room
chairs.
;> I saw an article in wood mag. a couple of years ago, but they were
;> pretty unimpressive.  I want something attractive.  Any good books?
;> Take a look at Wallace Nuttings American furniture he has scads of
;> pictures in vol 1 and construcyion details ,although some what
scant
;> in vol 2..At least it will give you an idea of what you like .
;> several of Charles Heywards books on furnituredesigns [plans ] have
;> chair plans  as do some books by Lester Margon and Verna Salomonsky

;>                                         mjh
;> 
;> 
I got my copy of the Woodcraft catalog today on the cover is a classic
Chippendale chair leg , one of the illustrations ina book entitled
"Making Classic Chairs"by Ron Clarkson .
He is going to give some instruction classes in april in Mi.If you are
interested call 313-981-6808.
Just for your interest I do not have any association with these folks 
                              mjh



From tmadsen@telusplanet.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:37 EST 1997
Article: 193174 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tony Madsen <tmadsen@telusplanet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:36:49 -0700
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Just got a "Dremel" detail sander and so far am quite impressed with
it's features....beats the blazes out of my PC detail monster and the B
& D cordless....
comes with a fair selection of profiles and the detail pad...it's vs and
goes from 4500 to 8000 spm....it does have some vibration to it but not
as much as the PC and weights about 1/1000000 of the PC (some
exageration here but i'm sure you get the picture)..

Tony

-- 
***********************************************************************
E-Mail: tmadsen@telusplanet.net
Web Page: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/tmadsen/index.htm
IRC Name: Excal99


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:38 EST 1997
Article: 193175 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Finishing articals in the new issue of woodshop news
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:00:15 GMT
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In the new issue there is an artical by Bob Flexner on reviving tired
finishes ,and one by Pete Gadrey on several types of finishes
             mjh



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:39 EST 1997
Article: 193176 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source: Bartleys wood filler or your favorite...
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:00:38 -0500
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Michael T. Breen wrote:
<snipped>
> My local 'fine woodworking' store is having a hard time finding bartleys in
> natural or dark or in anything but little cans.
> 
> Saw norm on the tube with a half gal. of a wood filler he tinted for some
> Mohogany project he was on.  Everybody at the other stores wants to sell me
> DAP or Elmer's wood filler - get real here!
> 
> Is there a mail order or web location for these or maybe your favorite
> pore/grain filler?
> 
> Any direction is better than the one back to my hardware store.  I have a
> refinishing book that says to use a product with SILEX - although none of
> the products I've seen so far has this in it.  Is the book out of date or
> what - does silex cause cancer and induce children to smoke?

Ken Rose (kenr@engr.sgi.com) responded:
> 
> coincidentally enough, I was just looking for a tinted pore wood filler,
> andgot a catalog from a mail-order place mentioned in the "suppliers"
> section of Bob Flexner's book; its called Liberon, and their toll-free
> number is 800-245-5611.  I just got the catalog and haven't ordered
> anything from them, but from talking to them on the phone when I was
> getting the catalog they seem pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

Let me expand on Ken Rose's response:

Liberon is connected with the Star Finishing Supply Company. Their
product line is excellent for finishes and touch up supplies. Their
prices are good for a mail order house. They even have a web site with
an on-line catalog as well as MANY technical sheets on finishing:
<http://www.mcn.org/MenComNet/Business/Retail/Lib/liberon.html>

The difference between Star and Liberon is that to order from Star
requires a $50 minimum order, while Liberon requires no minimum
purchase. Quality tech support is available from both (Star's chemist is
one of the nicest KNOWLEDGEABLE people to have on the other end of the
phone line).

I use their products, especially thir own line of "japan" colors which
they call "OJ Tints" (100% guilty of murder and hubris). That is their
colorant that you would use to tint their Pastewood Open Pore Grain
Filler, available in gallon cans in at least 5 colors: natural,
mahogany, walnut, dark walnut, and light provincial walnut. 
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel


From vanderen@bmt.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:41 EST 1997
Article: 193177 of rec.woodworking
From: vanderen@bmt.net (Robert Van Deren)
Organization: 
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 23:44:19 GMT
Subject: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193177

I have been doing a little remodeling and have noticed a nice reciprocating saw 
would be very handy.

What are peoples opinions as to the best recipro saw?
--
Robert Van Deren
vanderen@bmt.net




From danjw@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:41 EST 1997
Article: 193178 of rec.woodworking
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From: danjw@aol.com (DANJW)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodsmith Dovetail Jig?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 00:07:00 GMT
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Has anyone assembled the Woodsmith dovetail jig and found it to be
accurate and easy to use. You can purchase a template from Woodsmith and
make a jig with which you are able to rout half-blind dovetails. I would
think that the tolerances for mounting and adjusting the template would be
pretty tight and leave little room for error or slop? Thanks - Dan


From pgrosicki@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:42 EST 1997
Article: 193179 of rec.woodworking
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From: Pam Grosicki <pgrosicki@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Kahrs Hardwood Floors
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:08:47 -0500
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We are considering installing Kahrs (Maple Glasgow) as a floating floor,
in our new house. 

We would like to hear from anyone familiar with this
manufacturer's products. So far, our attempts to find any information on
this manufacturer's products have drawn a blank (except for the
company's home page.)

In particular, we would like to know:

* if you have had any problems with the planks separating? 

* has anyone seen "checking" (micro cracking on the top surface, due
to uneven expansion and contraction in the sub layers)?

* has anyone had or seen a Kahrs floor after 5 years? How is it looking
now? Any darkening?

* we are also interested in current prices (installed).

Many thanks

Jack and Pam


From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:43 EST 1997
Article: 193180 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:33:54 -0500
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StkyFingr wrote:
> 
> So, what was the point of this posting?
> 
> Sticky Fingers

You did not have the courtesy to quote even a part of your question, but
I will answer anyway.

Methlyene chloride is used in the finishing industry, and that overlaps
with the woodworking industry. That makes it a worthwhile topic for
rec.woodworking.

This wonderful chemical has been talked about to some degree here
(including by yours truely even though I now see that I have mispelled
it evertime in the past, neglecting the "y").

So when Robert Klein, who has a more than worthy track record for
relevant fact-filled contributions, decides to take his valuable time to
warn us of some of the dangers of working with this great versatile
compound, then you can bet your bottom dollar (a better negotiable
instrument when based on the gold standard) that the material is worth
reading.

What's his point of posting? That should all be mindful (a word made
more prominent by becoming the topic of an "On Language" essay by
William Safire) of the dangers we may encounter when we come into
contact with methylene chloride. The least we could do is warn the mice
in the studies that they are at risk

I would say that ther is tremendous advantages to Mr. Klein's posting in
that it helps to remove "a stumbling block before the blind"; that there
is little point to you asking what his point was -- especially without
benefit of a quotation from such or even a hint in your query so that an
unassuming reader of your post might have the slightest benefit of
context; and finally that there is a little more point to my response to
your post, but much less worthwhile than the informative contribution
>from  Robert Klein dealing with methylene chloride, a popular chemical
used in removing finishes.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel


From BAH@gowebway.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:44 EST 1997
Article: 193181 of rec.woodworking
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From: BAH <BAH@gowebway.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: hand planes
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 08:57:21 -0800
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I've been looking to pick up a Record 04 smoothing plane.  I've noticed
that some of them out there have a brass colored knob on the front that
keeps the blade secure while others have a sort of flip-lock thing that
you pull open to release the blade.  Both seem to be about the same
price and both seem to tbe the high end of the Record line.  What if any
is the difference?  Should I care?


From fessler@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:45 EST 1997
Article: 193182 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Fessler <fessler@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Great Tweezers!
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:44:24 -0500
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Let me preface my post by saying that I am not affiliated with Paul
Winchell in any way, but if you want a great pair of sliver tweezers you
can keep handy on your keyring for that errant splinter, Paul's your
man!  I just received mine from him (being the trusting soul he must be,
he sends you the tweezers and the invoice at the same time) and they're
great!  Contact him at w@winchell.com
Best Regards,
Dave Fessler


From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:46 EST 1997
Article: 193183 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Time Life Woodworking Series
Date: 29 Mar 1997 00:47:48 GMT
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John,

The Time-Life Woodworking series is like the other Time-Life books - full
of good illustrations, but not a set of books that will provide the kind of
woodworking insight that Fine Woodworking publications offer.  I have the
Time-Life Woodworking books and love the pictures, but I've learned more
>from  the FWW videos and books.

Joe Colson

John Schneider <jackfir@televar.com> wrote in article
<5gajci$352@bartlett.televar.com>...
> I have an ad for the Time Life Woodworking series. Is there anyone out
there that has 
> purchased it. Is it as good as advertized? I have learned a great deal by
reading about my 
> favorite hobby and would like to learn more. Some of the router jigs in
the advertisement 
> have save me some real headaches even in the last two days.
> 
> 
> 


From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:47 EST 1997
Article: 193184 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: cutting mortise
Date: 29 Mar 1997 01:04:23 GMT
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I've tried using a router.  OK for a few mortises.

I finally bought a Delta mortiser.  It's easy, quick, repeatable, and
produces square mortises.  And it's not that expensive.

Joe Colson

W Pierce <wpierce@wpierce.com> wrote in article
<332995a0.1327351@news2.gte.net>...
> What is your preferred method for cutting many mortises?Looking for
> most direct, exact tools and techniques, comparing hand, router, and
> the mortising machines. 
> 


From grahamp@cris.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:48 EST 1997
Article: 193185 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Patrick M. Graham" <grahamp@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need help finding a Piano Lock
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:58:03 -0800
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I'm looking for a small lock made for the keyboard cover for a piano.  I
guess they make them somewhere and I've been asked to do this for a
church piano.  Any sources?

Thanks,  Pat   (email me please.... grahamp@cris.com)


From mpayne@gte.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:49 EST 1997
Article: 193186 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Payne <mpayne@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Help with Joiner
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I have a 8 inch long bed Delta/Rockwell joiner.  When facing my parts
for planing the wood has a twist in it. It will not lay flat on the
joiner bed, table saw, or any flat surface. This just started to happen.
It has worked well for me for years making good flat facing. WHAT WENT
WRONG with my joiner????????? Thanks


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:50 EST 1997
Article: 193187 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: The best deal on a Sears table saw .you will not find a better deal
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:33:03 GMT
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I was fortunate to get a super deal on a delta Unisaw recently .it has
been restored and is now in working order .It replaces a very old good

Sears tablesaw,that I have used in my shop for the last 15 plus years
Even as late as last week I was cutting 1/16"strips consistently on
it ,this is with a bessimier fence which is now on the Unisaw .
As I was originally given this saw ,I am offering the same to any one
on this group .It would be nice if it was someone who is starting out
who got it ,nevertheless I am afraid it is going to be first come
first served . As i do this for a living I will be happy to help load
it but I am afraid thats going to be about it .
I am in Atlanta ,interested parties please contact me via Email .
the saw has two extension tables but does not include the motor or
blades .the crank on the tilt adjustment is broken .A nut has been
welded onto it and adjustment can be made with a  simple ratchet .The
stand is included .I will attempt to locate the original fence.
                                mjh 



From flyguy@usanet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:51 EST 1997
Article: 193188 of rec.woodworking
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From: flyguy@usanet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:21:22 GMT
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On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:55:57 EST, Larry Rondot
<RONDOT@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU> wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>I bought at an auction a 250mm DeWalt power miter box (Catalog number 7716)
>"Type 1".  It has a nice Delta thin kerf blade on it, but needs sharpening.
>
>Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
>after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade with pliers
>I can't get the nut loose.
>
>The center of the arbor seems like it might be a star driver.  Do I need a
>special adaptor/tool to hold the arbor in place to remove the blade?
>
>Thanks for any comments...
>
>Larry Rondot
>Rondot@VMB.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
Please don't take this wrong, but are you turning the nut in the right
direction? Never could figure out why, but some saws have right hand
and some have left hand threads. Nearly broke one trying to turn the
arbor nut in the wrong direction. 


From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:52 EST 1997
Article: 193189 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ok... Which router?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 01:26:32 GMT
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Michael,

I use the DW625 in my router table and have been satisfied.  It's 3HP and
uses 1/2" bits.

If you spring for the DW625, buy the fine adjustment knob.  And remove the
springs in the posts to make it easier to raise.

Joe Colson

Michael R. Dow <dow@flash.net> wrote in article
<333AFB55.3796@flash.net>...
> Ok... So... Which router for a router table that I'm going to build?
> 
> Bosch? 
> Freud?
> DeWalt?
> 
> Inquiring minds wanna know.



From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:52 EST 1997
Article: 193190 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: 29 Mar 1997 01:25:57 GMT
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I'm very happy with my Milwaukee Super Sawzall.
Tough, metal case, and been in use for years.

Martin
vanderen@bmt.net (Robert Van Deren) wrote:
>I have been doing a little remodeling and have noticed a nice reciprocating saw 
>would be very handy.
>
>What are peoples opinions as to the best recipro saw?
>--
>Robert Van Deren
>vanderen@bmt.net
>
>




From stockton@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:53 EST 1997
Article: 193191 of rec.woodworking
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From: stockton@mindspring.com (Joe Stockton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 01:32:13 GMT
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>> I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or
switches) on the  outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in
my new backyard workshop.  I  am about to start running the wiring in
the shop.  I was thinking to put a bank of  20 amp double pole switches
near the door with each switch killing one or two branch  circuits. 
This obviously adds a bit to the cost of the wiring job and everyone I 
talk to about this (none of them are woodworkers) look at me like I'm
looney for  even thinking about it.  Are kill switches really overkill?
<<

There overkill until you need to turn everything off quickly or easily
due to an accident, machine problem, etc. Then they're priceless!

>> Also, is there a better way to switch off the branch circuits that
isn't too  expensive?  I had thought to use a multi-pole contactor, but
the $200+ cost made me  change my mind. <<

The inexpensive way is to put all machines on a subpanel and connect the
kill switch to short across the subpanel main breaker. Using a
momentary, normally open (NO) switches with a large red mushroom head
with a couple of them mounted in convenient locations in the shop. When
one of the buttons is pressed, the breaker is shorted, quickly overload
and trips. Obviously, the lights _must_ be feed from a circuit that is
not in the subpanel.

This is a little additional work especially if you can not easily have
the subpanel and separate light circuit. Fortunately for me, this won't
be a problem in the shop I'm setting up in my basement so I will be
installing kill switches.

Call me paranoid but I still have all my appendages as well as most my
hearing (lost at an earlier, more foolish age) and vision (lost to
inherieted severe near sightedness). And I'm trying to keep it that way.

--

--\  Joe Stockton
---> stockton@mindspring.com
--/  Lawrenceville GA USA




From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:54 EST 1997
Article: 193192 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodsmith Dovetail Jig?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 01:33:47 GMT
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I built the Woodsmith dovetail jig and it's OK.  But I eventually bought a
Leigh.  The Woodsmith jig is easier to adjust than it may seem just from
reading about it in the magazine.  But it doesn't even come close to the
Leigh in versatility.  You have to be careful with the Woodsmith template
not to run your router bit through it.  It's made of UHMW plastic and one
slip and you need a new template.  Trust me, it happens!

Joe Colson

DANJW <danjw@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970329000600.TAA28355@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Has anyone assembled the Woodsmith dovetail jig and found it to be
> accurate and easy to use. You can purchase a template from Woodsmith and
> make a jig with which you are able to rout half-blind dovetails. I would
> think that the tolerances for mounting and adjusting the template would
be
> pretty tight and leave little room for error or slop? Thanks - Dan
> 


From ernfisch@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:55 EST 1997
Article: 193193 of rec.woodworking
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From: ernfisch@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bridge City III
Date: 28 Mar 1997 18:42:02 -0700
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In <01bc3b37$59f80dc0$c89e09ce@horizons>, "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com> writes:
>
>I saw the specifications but was not paying attention. As the handle is
>less than 1" thick, the outside graduations have no reference point, other
>than the inside face of the blade. The 1" mark on the outside edge actually
>sits at the 0" point on the inside edge, the 2" mark at the 1", etc.
>However, because the handle is less than 1" thick, the 1" mark isn't 1"
>away from anything, except the 2" mark. 
>

Having been intrigued by the previous post I measured my AS-3, AS-5 and AS-14.
On my AS-5 the handle is 1.0003".  Pretty close to 1".  The outside scale was
checked against a 1" cube which miked out to 0.9985" (using three different
mikes) and shims.  The outside scale was dead on (trying to interpolate to the
middle of the etched 1" mark).

The AS-14 measured out at 0.9985" on the outside scale and the AS-3 measured
out to 0.9945" on the outside scale.  None of these appear too bad as even the
AS-3 was accurate to better than 1/128".  I don't do woodwork to that precision.

>Again, don't flame me because of this, as I said I wasn't paying attention.
>What you cannot do is use the outside graduations to measure something like
>depth of cut on a router table for instance. That is, you can't set the
>square down, with the blade sticking up in the air and measure anything. 

If your square can't be used send it back, it is clearly defective.  Mine aren't.

>
>As for the slide stop, it sticks. But no matter, as it does not work as
>advertised. The weight of the blade is not enough to hold the handle, as it
>is in the picture. Again, the picture is not the AS-5, but the AS-14. The
>AS-5 sports the same slide stop, so I assumed it was there for the same
>reason. I have no idea what it's for.
>

Once the knurled knob is loosened the little blade should not stick, if it does the
square is defective.  The other comment is quite true.  The only use I have found
for the little blade is to keep the handle from tipping along the edge.  The blade
could have been omitted with no loss of functionality.  Normally I hold the square
when I am using it.

>
>I've wondered often why a try square wasn't graduated, and was hoping that
>the BC square would fit size & measuring needs. At $85, it cost me less
>than the Starrett will end up costing, but the Starrett will be able to do
>what I hoped for and will cost more only because the satin chrome blade is
>special order.
>

Note that to use the Starrett as you wish, you will have to align the marks
yourself.  My BC squares are quite accurate and they are already aligned.

ernie fisch



From ernfisch@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:56 EST 1997
Article: 193194 of rec.woodworking
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From: ernfisch@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning waterstone
Date: 28 Mar 1997 18:46:03 -0700
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In <333B47CB.4973@hal-pc.org>, keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org> writes:
>Victor G. Baron wrote:
>> 
>> I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
>> screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
>> roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
>> and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
>> combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
>> the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
>> sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? It just happened
>> this evening so I haven't had time to try anything. Had several ideas
>> on my own tho,

As you say it hasn't affected the performance of the stone.  I accidentally got a 
little oil on my 1200 grit stone.  It never affected performance and eventually
worked its way out.

You haven't ruined your stone and my advice is to leave it alone.  Use it as you
would normally and flatten it when necessary.  It will clean itself up.

ernie fisch


From B.Wingard@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:57 EST 1997
Article: 193195 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob Wingard <"B.Wingard@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Paste Filler Substitute
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:01:51 -0500
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Has anyone in the group been to one of the Woodworking Shows recently
where a few pro's were recruited to give free mini-seminars in the
aisles ???   If so, do you remember seeing a man who was giving
finishing tips & techniques ???   He was giving a seminar later in the
day where he promised showing how to use drywall compound as a pore
filler.   He said it gave him the smoothest, fastest, cheapest filler
he'd ever tried.   I assume he either tinted it before aplication, or,
perhaps it takes stain readily and can be done after application.  
Anyway, I had to leave before his presentation, and was wondering if
anyone heard his approach.   If not, perhaps some experimentation is in
order.   This would be a great place to share ideas and results.   What
do y'all think ???
-- 
							<<< BOB >>>



May God be above you to bless you, within you to sanctify you, around
you to protect you, and before you to guide you.


From bturnbull@sirus.com Wed Apr  2 12:03:58 EST 1997
Article: 193196 of rec.woodworking
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From: bturnbull@sirus.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:25:20 GMT
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My favorite is "Original Fabulon". It's a specialized floor lacquer
containing a synthetic wax and a synthetic oil. IMHO you should have
lots of ventilation and a wear a respirator when applying it. I have a
33 year old red oak floor with the original finish that looks very
good. I have touched up a few worn areas. Being a lacquer,  new
applications melt into the dried finish and blend in very well. Looks
better than polyureathane as far as I'm concerned. You can order it
>from  a Pratt & Lambert dealer.


From tclapp@flash.net Wed Apr  2 12:03:59 EST 1997
Article: 193197 of rec.woodworking
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From: "T. W. Clapp" <tclapp@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wolfcraft Biscuits too thick for slots cut by Ryobi Biscuit joiner
Date: 29 Mar 1997 02:46:57 GMT
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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BAKE YOUR BISCUITS!  That's right, when they swell up due to humidity, put
them on a cookie sheet and plop 'em in the oven at 200deg or so for about
15-20 minutes.  Shrinks them back to proper size to fit in the slots. 
Living in Houston (humid!!!) I do this all the time.

Mark Young <marky@up.net> wrote in article <333B7CE1.130C@up.net>...
> Heck, after finally concluding that I'd keep the newly purchased Ryobi,
> I found tonight the hard way that the biscuits that came with the tool
> were considerably thinner than the bulk packs of a hundred or so made by
> Wolfcraft.
> 
> Question: are Woldcrafts' biscuits standard size or rather thick. I.e.,
> are the included biscuits supplied by Ryobi substandard thickness? Who
> is not living up to specs?!!!
> Thanks,
> 
> (Remove the "X" in address when replying)
> newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address
> 
> Mark Young
> marky@up.net
> acoustic@up.net
> 
> 


From YXFX27A@prodigy.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:00 EST 1997
Article: 193198 of rec.woodworking
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From: YXFX27A@prodigy.com (Jimmie Motto)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: polyurethane over shellac ???
Date: 29 Mar 1997 03:02:45 GMT
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 I know that sounds real bad, but it's my floor, not my furniture. I just 
milled all the bull nosing and  I'm trying to match a pre-finished 'Bruce 
Flooring' stain. 3 or 4 stains,a little red dye and it's looking pretty 
good...but it needs a little orange...guess what, that ol' 3# cut brings 
it on home. Now .. can anyone please tell me if I can shoot polyurethane 
on top of this?  I'm sure the shellac will not stand up to the abuse.  
Please stop me if I'm about to make a horrible mistake as I'm down to the 
last 3 or 4 hrs of this project and I'm getting that antsy feeling .......
650 squ. ft. of maple...my knees look like dinner plates but my wife is 
sooooo happy..
  tia
 Jim Motto
 yxfx27a@prodigy.com



From oakman@ibm.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:01 EST 1997
Article: 193199 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kirk Seifert <oakman@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Makita 6" plane
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 18:23:08 -0800
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Does anyone have an idea where I could find a Makita 6" plane? It seems 
they have discontinued makeing them and most former dealers are not able
to locate one. Maybe mailorder? Which company?
Kirk Seifert
oakman@ibm.net


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:02 EST 1997
Article: 193200 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 29 Mar 1997 03:47:06 GMT
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	I've come to the conclusion that Home Depot "really" is marketed toward
the homeowner, not the professional craftsman, which is perfectly fine. 
For instance they'll sell some small planes up to a 14" Buck Brothers
plane, but you'd never find a jointer's plane there, it's too specialized. 
Another example is that they sell Bull's Eye ready make shellac, but not
shellac flakes, again too specialized.  The examples go on and on.  What I
do is when I need a specialized tool I'd order it from Woodworker's supply,
or Lee Valley tools, but anything that I need that Home Depot carries, I'll
buy it there.  It's cheaper, faster, and easier to return if it doesn't
suit my needs when I get it home.
	I wish Home Depot carried more lumber than just pine, maple, poplar and
oak, too. 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com

..  What I'd like to do is to explore a subject with the group
> about where we buy our more ordinary tools.  I'm just using these two
fine
> stores as examples.



From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:03 EST 1997
Article: 193201 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworker Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 29 Mar 1997 03:42:07 GMT
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Tom,
I have been so utterly frustrated in mail order companies, that I'd would
never buy a tool that way again. The problem is backorders and damage in
transit. I want to see and touch what I'm buying, beforehand. Not just a
representative model, I mean the VERY thing. I can't do this by mail order.
I'd rather pay 25% more (or $100, whichever is less) for this privilege.
And it seems as if the retailers are happy to oblige, too. ;-) And I wish
there was a tool Mecca within striking distance, but I have to make do with
Home Depot, Hechingers and Lowes, and the local industrial tool seller
($$$).
Casey

Tom Gauldin <scoundrl@mindspring.com> wrote in article
<5hguba$1ds@camel0.mindspring.com>...


What I'd like to do is to explore a subject with the group
> about where we buy our more ordinary tools.  

> Woodworker's Supply is being used to categorize a catalog/store that
> specializes in selling a wide range of tools, supplies and materials for
the
> woodworking hobbyist and probably also some professional woodworkers.  
> 
> Home Depot is being used to categorize all general purpose hardware
stores,
> lumber yards and home improvement stores.

WHENEVER POSSIBLE, I PREFER TO BUY FROM
> WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY, if the price of the tool in question is even roughly
> comparable to that found at Home Depot.  I've even found that they'll
match
> the price of Home Depot when the tools are identical.

 the reason I favor a place like Woodworker's Supply, when
> the product is available at BOTH stores, is that by buying even the most
> mundane tools from Woodworker's Supply, I help keep the store in
business. . .
> and therefore I am assured that there will be a source in the future for
the
> unusual tools, supplies and materials that appeal uniquely to me as a
> woodworking hobbyist. 
> 



From SciRhet@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:04 EST 1997
Article: 193202 of rec.woodworking
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From: SciRhet@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworker Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:07:08 -0500
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I think for me it depends on the tool.  If I was buying Dremel parts, 
I wouldn't care where I bought them; lots of places know to carry bits 
and whatnot for those machines. But for other items, I might try to 
buy from the specialty store.  I _do_ want those places to be around 
when I need them!

SciRhet
able to leap disciplines in a single bound


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:05 EST 1997
Article: 193203 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hand planes
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:00:04 GMT
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BAH:

> I've been looking to pick up a Record 04 smoothing plane.  I've noticed
> that some of them out there have a brass colored knob on the front that
> keeps the blade secure while others have a sort of flip-lock thing that
> you pull open to release the blade.

I prefer the flip to the knob - by far. As subjective as that observation
can be.

> price and both seem to tbe the high end of the Record line.

High end and Record line used in the same sentence does not work.

>  What if any
> is the difference?  Should I care?

In actual use, it's not all that often, so no, you really shouldn't care
that much. It's used to set the tension after replacing the iron after
honing. Once set it's set.

You'd be much farther off (IMO) with a pre-war Stanley #04 and an iron from
Lie-Nielson, or failing that, Ron Hock. A very nice #04 can be found on the
web for about 1/2 what you would pay for a new Record. And chances are
you'll have a much better working unit.

In any case, figure to spend some time on the Record to get it tuned up. I
found that Record does a better job than Stanley U.K. at machining.





From dougmcl@xnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:06 EST 1997
Article: 193204 of rec.woodworking
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From: Doug McLerran <dougmcl@xnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP!  Super Eraser source?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:57:23 -0600
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Chumly@jaws.net wrote:
> 
> Years back I bought an abrasive block that looked like a black eraser and was
> the best tool ever for cleaning rust and corrosion from stationary tools.
> I've asked at a number of supply houses and no one seems to know what
> I'm talking about,
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find this or a similar product?
> 
> Chris
> 
> chumly@nji.com

Grizzly Imports sells something much like you describe in 3 grits, they 
call it a "sandflex" and it costs $5.  (800)523-4777


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:06 EST 1997
Article: 193205 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP!  Super Eraser source?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:10:39 GMT
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>Chumly@jaws.net wrote:
>> 
>> Years back I bought an abrasive block that looked like a black eraser and was
>> the best tool ever for cleaning rust and corrosion from stationary tools.
>> I've asked at a number of supply houses and no one seems to know what
>> I'm talking about,
>> 
>> Does anyone know where I can find this or a similar product?
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>> chumly@nji.com


Chris,

Lowes, Home Depot or any similar place carry them.

Al


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:07 EST 1997
Article: 193206 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:10:50 GMT
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I had the 34-444, have the PM66

> I realize that a the Unisaw is the standard here for most people. How
> close can a contractor saw, such as the Delta 36-440, come to the Unisaw
> in terms of accuracy and repeatability?

Very close indeed. I was able to mill onion skin shavings off the 34-444
with unifence with ease. The unifence is very good.

> And how good are these saws for general woodworking, like cutting tenons,
> ripping, etc?

Excellent. 

The real difference I find between the two is the seemingly limitless power
of the 3hp motor and the smooth operation. Even with 4/4 (s2s) the 34-444
would slow down. This due to things like case hardening. With a good rip
blade, I've milled 8/4 red oak, slow but sure. The PM66 just finished going
through some 12/4 maple with ease. Now you may say that you don't forsee
yourself milling 8/4 or 12/4 stock. I said that too, a few years ago.

When you price one out, add in (as automatic) a link-belt and pully upgrade
($50). Also spend some $ on good blades, in ascending order Freud, CMT, and
Forrest.

When I got the 34-444 I opted for the 30" fence. I again figured that I'd
not need the extra reach. I was wrong, more times than I can count I ran
out of reach. Depends on the type of work you'll be doing of course, but
the footprint of a 50" fence isn't all that much to give up.






From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:08 EST 1997
Article: 193207 of rec.woodworking
From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Phone Number for Woodworkers Warehouse
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:27:56 -0500
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Mark A. Hoeting wrote:
> 
> Greetings everyone.
> I am looking for the number for the Woodworkers Warehouse. Does
> anyone happen to have this?
> Thanks.
> I appreciate all responses.
> mhoeting@sfasu.edu


888-234-TOOL, for orders.
1-800-827-5632 for store locations.


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:09 EST 1997
Article: 193208 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bridge City III
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:25:21 GMT
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> On my AS-5 the handle is 1.0003".  Pretty close to 1".  The outside scale
was

You are correct, very close to 1".

The specifications state the handle to be .92", or .08" less than 1".
Taking out my rule graduated to 100ths, I find .08" to be more than 1/16"
as I stated.

> AS-3 was accurate to better than 1/128".  I don't do woodwork to that
precision.

Nor do I, but the handle specs on the AS-3 are the same .92"

> If your square can't be used send it back, it is clearly defective.  Mine
aren't.

When did you get yours?

> Once the knurled knob is loosened the little blade should not stick, if
it does the
> square is defective. 

Quite so, quite so.

> Note that to use the Starrett as you wish, you will have to align the
marks
> yourself. 

You are correct. However, I can easily accomplish that well within 1/16".

> My BC squares are quite accurate and they are already aligned.

I wish I could say the same.


From edd@mindspring Wed Apr  2 12:04:10 EST 1997
Article: 193209 of rec.woodworking
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From: edd@mindspring (edd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Aluminum
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 04:27:48 GMT
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Working in the entertainment trade, Aluminum is a regularly used
material for many applications.  We typically use "woodworking"
machines for milling aluminum of many forms.  Routers are indeed used
with up or down cutting spiral carbide bits, as are mitre saws, and
tablesaws depending on the application needed.  A hold down is
recommended such as fingerboards or clamps.  Wear protective clothing
including, but not limited to gloves, longsleeve shirt, face shield
AND goggles and definitely ear protection. 
	 Run aluminum at a slow, even speed and do NOT let go of the
stock until the blade is away from the stock.  Use a carbide tipped,
triple chip grind blade with a very shallow hook angle.  Additionally,
try to use a lubricant on the blade such as a wax machinist lube, or a
light oil.  Watch out for edges, which can either be burnished, or
filed after milling.
	Gas cutting and welding of aluminum is very tricky and should
only be done by, or in the presence of an experienced welder.  You'll
find Aluminum machines very much like Acrylic or polycarbonate.

I wish you well with your endevor,

Chris


On 3 Mar 1997 17:35:43 GMT, jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
wrote:

>In article <33185069.2C5A@netarrant.net>, mcginnis@netarrant.net says...
>>
>>Can anyone give some advise on cutting aluminum tube and sheet. Thickest
>>piece would be about 1/4". I have both table and radial saws that I
>>could use. What would be an appropriate blade and technique?
>
>A few years ago, FWW ran an article about milling aluminum with
>a router -- a proposal I thought was pretty ridiculous, considering
>that router runs nearly 100 times the speed of the average milling
>machine setup.  My dad though, being a machinist/woodworker,
>tried it for himself and was pleased with the results.
>
>Cutting thin aluminum on a circular saw is definitely the most
>troublesome operation, but it can certainly be done.  In my
>experience, it's wise to find a way to hold the material very
>securely in some sort of fixture (don't try to do it holding it with
>your hands, or just pressed against the miter fence), and feed
>slowly.
>
>If you intend to do it often, use a band saw, which is a more
>appropriate tool, and is also far less susceptible to damage from
>aluminum filings falling into the saw's works.
>
>
>-- 
>John Paquay
>jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
>http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/
>----------------------------------------------------
>Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
>            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
>----------------------------------------------------
>



From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:11 EST 1997
Article: 193210 of rec.woodworking
From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Cordless Drill???
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:23:12 -0500
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Jamie,
Although I personally do not care for B&D tools, oops meant to say
DeWalt, it rate highly in a review from Wood magazine.  Regardless of
the voltage, the DeWalt was the winner.  I'll stick with my Makita until
it croaks & read more current reviews, although I'm leaning heavily
toward the Panasonic or Bosch.
Larry

Jamie Barnes wrote:
> 
> I'm new to this newsgroup, so if this has been discussed previously I
> apologize. I'm going to buy a cordless drill in the next few weeks. I'm
> having a house built so I'm going to use it for obvious things like hanging
> mini blinds, shelves, etc. I'm also going to go in after the subfloors are
> put down and screw in the floors to prevent squeaks. I'm considering buying
> a 12V DeWalt. Partially because two of my buddies also have 12V DeWalts and
> I could borrow their battery packs if I ever needed to. I've also looked at
> Mikita, Bosch, and a couple of others. Any experiences, positive or
> negative, would be appreciated.


From nsummers@istar.ca Wed Apr  2 12:04:12 EST 1997
Article: 193211 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsummers@istar.ca (Neil Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Tables
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:36:41 GMT
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On 27 Mar 1997 15:23:26 GMT, RLepage@aol.com (R Lepage) wrote:

>I'm currently shopping for a router table. My router is a B&D with a 6" 
>base. 
>
>Any recommendations on brand or model? Also I am considering getting a 
>second router which I could leave attached to the table. Any 
>comments?
>
>I am located in Canada if that helps with your input.

If you're really bent on buying a router table I'd suggest you look
into the table and fence available from Lee Valley. It'll coust you
around $300 CDN for both.

However, I'd encourage you to build your own. There are many great
plans around and you'd have the satisfaction of making your own which
would be probably just as good as a commercially available model for a
lot less money. American Woodworker featured an excellent table in
issue 44 (I think) and ShopNotes featured a great table in it's
premiere issue.

Good luck and happy woodworking.


_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 
nsummers@istar.ca
Neil Summers
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 


From bpounds@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:13 EST 1997
Article: 193212 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:41:14 -0800
Organization: I am not organized
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Randy Reid wrote:
> 
> Can anybody out there give me the formula for figuring out the angles to
> construct a four sided pyramid?  I know there is one but for the life of
> me I can't find it.  Thanks for any help you may be.
>  e-mail to :    rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu
> 
> --
> rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu

There is a very nice shareware program for MS Windows which is exactly
what you need. It's called miter and you can find it at the Wood
Magazine site. To download it, go to;

http://www.woodmagazine.com

-- 
Bill Pounds
bpounds@ix.netcom.com
http://www.netcom.com/~bpounds/index.htm
**********************************************
* Join the National Rifle Association today. *
*  The rights you save will be your own!     *
**********************************************


From nailwood@sr66.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:14 EST 1997
Article: 193213 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward Nail" <nailwood@sr66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:31:56 GMT
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There is a lot of truth to the fact that UV light and dirt causes old wood 
to look dark. Hovewer there is another not too well known reason. Prior to
the use of modern "Boiled Linseed Oil" that isn't boiled with heat
anymore,(they usually just pump compressed air into it to oxygenate it) and
the use of metalic driers to speed up the reactive cure process. Old time
craftsman and companies would rub the wood down with "pond scumb". Yes, I
did say pond scumb, as a matter of fact pond scumb used to be a commidity
that was in demand by the best craftsman. Their fovorite pond scumb came
>from  northern ponds where years on leaf fall and decay had turned the water
as brown as coffee and the fine powder silt that was a result of all the
tannic acid and decomposed leaves was used to pack and plug the cells of
wood prior to application of old real boiled linssed oil finishes. Non
metalic drier boiled linseed oil is almost impossible to find. Anyone
wanting to duplicate a true historic hand rubbed finish must start with
plain linseed oil boil thier own batch, thin with mineral siprits approx.
50% mimimum,  and apply.  Modern process uses fine silicate in oil as a
cell pack to smooth the surface grain and plug the pores of the wood to
prevent bubbeling of the finish as it dries. Red oak and Walnut are two
woods that should be cell packed prior to any final finish. 
We wonder if the saying ,"You'r not worth pond scumb" may have a connection
to old world craftsman. As they most likely hired the villiage idiot to go
out into the pond and scoop it up.  I'm sure that there is enough workers
that there is probably a potential of high profit for anyone who wants to
market pond scumb today.   
> 


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:15 EST 1997
Article: 193214 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Aluminum
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:03:45 GMT
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I believe it should be Negative Hook Blade
"Common sense is so...uncommon."FLW
remove X to reply..


From sinclair@wfu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:04:16 EST 1997
Article: 193215 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Sinclair <sinclair@wfu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:58:07 -0500
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I foolishly decided to refinish a captain's chair that must have had 50
years of stain/dirt/general crud on it.  This gave me still another
opportunity to regret having bought the P-C profile sander.  The
sandpaper sticks poorly or not at all to the profiles and even when it
stays on it does a poor job.

In contrast, when sanding a flat surface the Fein is superb.  True, it
is not a profile sander, but IMHO neither is the P-C.

If you need to do detail sanding, I would recommend spending the money
for the Fein -- none of the other brands that I've seen or used are in
the same league.


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:17 EST 1997
Article: 193216 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue - Wipe off or let it dry?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:32:14 GMT
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I have always wiped off excess glue at the time of the squeezeout.  I
keep a bucket of clean water close by with a clean rag, toothbrush,
and a couple of other small brushes in it.

If I am thorough, I have no problems with staining or finishing later.

I personally find this easier and more efficient than having to wait
for the glue to particially set up to peel off or chisel off if I wait
too long.  

One caution is to make sure no metal clamps are touching the wood when
I wipe the areas around the pipe clamps.  Wet metal and wood will
leave an ugly black iron stain.



On Thu, 20 Mar 1997 08:50:33 -0800, Philip Roybal
<proybal@pacbell.net> wrote:

>damian drewek wrote:
>> 
>> I usually prestain areas I might get glue on, but I am building a gift
>> for someone who will stain it themselves to the color they need.  Am I
>> best to let the glue dry or try to wipe it off? (It's face frame
>> constructed entertainment center.)
>
>I've had good luck taping the at risk areas with blue masking tape (you
>can get it off days later), clamping the glue-up and letting the glue
>squeeze out, then peeling off the tape and glue once the glue has set
>enough to become rubbery. The oly problem comes if you get the tape too
>close to the joint and accidentally glue it a bit of it into the joint.
>
>Phil
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:18 EST 1997
Article: 193217 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hide Glue??
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:39:02 GMT
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It certainly matters which gram strength hide glue you use, how much
water is added, what temperature you heat it to, how it was stored and
a couple of other considerations.

Like any other material, certain guidelines must be followed for best
results.

====================================================================


On Sun, 23 Mar 1997 03:27:21 GMT, UserName@TurboNet.com (Your Name)
wrote:

>Prinz_Eugen@promail.com (Prinz_Eugen) wrote:
>
>>Being a novice woodworker, I have been wondering what "hide glue" is. Many
>>people in the group say they use it, but what are the
>>advantages/disadvantages to using it? What are some brand names? When
>>should you use or not use hide glue?
>
>>TIA.
>
>>Dave
>Good Question.. the one time I bought and used the stuff was about 12
>years ago. Since then I've continued to use aliphatic (sp?) glues, and
>recently have started to use gorilla glue and such.
>
>I was told that hide glue gave more work time and was more resistant
>to climate change. I thought the stuff stunk (literally), and it
>didn't even do what I expected, which was to hold together a walnut
>dresser top.
>
>My cut on it is that the people who are bound by tradition, luthiers
>and others, have to use it and the rest of us can move on.....
>
>Tom
>
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:19 EST 1997
Article: 193218 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sycamore lumber
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:41:00 GMT
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Sycamore has its place in woodworking and is used in the industry.  I
have no idea about cost.  sorry

==================================================

On Sun, 23 Mar 1997 03:58:51 GMT, wdjjr@bham.mindspring.com (william
d. jones, jr) wrote:

>Is sycamore lumber good for woodworking ? If so, what does this cost
>per bd ft ?
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bakalis@cts.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:20 EST 1997
Article: 193219 of rec.woodworking
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From: bakalis@cts.com (Steven Bakalis)
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This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.

Steven B.



From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:21 EST 1997
Article: 193220 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem ...UPDATE...
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:16:08 GMT
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I really appreciate all the advise about the bandsaw, personally I'm
not having any trouble with my bandsaw, (I keep my blade nice and
tight) I was responding to another person's problem with their
bandsaw. 

Ernest was having trouble with his bandsaw. He has a 1/2" 3tpi skip
tooth blade, had read a book about tuning his bandsaw and done what he
read and was still having trouble getting a straight cut on anything
taller than 3 inches (resawn).

Now, if you've done all that and still can't get it to cut straight
the one thing that comes to mind is the blade tension. The tension
mark on the bandsaws are just the starting point, if the blade is
still wandering after all the guides are set and the bearings are set
you need to increase the blade tension. Don't be afraid of hurting
your bandsaw it can take a reasonable increase in tension over the
suggested mark. 

If the tension knob, handle or whatever gets hard to turn by hand use
whatever is handy to give it that extra twist, even God forbid....a
pipe wrench. 

The blade tension that cuts just fine on 2 inch thick stuff might not
be enough when you raise the guides to resaw taller stuff. If your
bandsaw resaws just fine with the amount of tension you have on it
now, put that pipe wrench down.

thanks again

Al



From wayneb@pipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:21 EST 1997
Article: 193221 of rec.woodworking
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From: wayneb@pipeline.com (Wayne Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 5hp Compressor: Craftsman or DeVilbiss?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:44:10 GMT
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I can't speak specifically to the Craftsman but I own the 5hp
DeVilbiss which I got for about the same price that you're
quoting.  As a matter of policy,  I've decided to not buy any
more Craftsman tools due to serious disappointments
with quality.

First, understand that neither of these units are even close
to being 5 horsepower.  That's an imaginary rating based
on totally unrealistic operating conditions.  The true HP
tracks closely with current drawn,  which puts both of these
units in the 1 to 1.5 HP range.

Next, understand that neither is rated for continuous
operation.  You won't find that out until you get the unit
home and read the fine print, but it's there.  My DeVilbiss
is rated at a 50% duty cycle so cut the cfm ratings in half
for serious, heavy duty work.

That said, the DeVilbiss is adequate for my ocassional
light duty needs.  It's OK for intermittent spraying and
infrequent light sanding.  It's way too small for pressure
washing or sandblasting.  It would be fine for powering
one or more pneumatic nailers.

Noise and starting current are horrendous which is
common to all of the oil less, direct drive models in
that power range.  My DeVilbiss absolutely refuses
to start on a 14 guage circuit without blowing the
breaker.  Short 12 ga circuits are OK.  It will not
start with a 3500 watt Honda generator,  at least
not when it's wired for 110 volts.  I may rewire it
for 220 just to see if that makes a difference.

In short, understand what your requirements are
before you buy.  For heavy duty, continuous operation
I'd recommend an Emglo unit, either gasoline powered,
or 220 volt in the 15 to 30 amp range.
=====================================================

"Bradley A. Stolzer" <WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM> wrote:

>The DeVilbiss can be gotten for $269 at the local warehouse club.  The Sears
>equivalent costs $10 more.  Specs are similar.  Any reason to choose one over
>the other?  Either one particularly better quality?  Or are they equivalent.

>Thanks for your opinion.

>Brad




From jriley@calweb.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:22 EST 1997
Article: 193222 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Riley <jriley@calweb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Doweling Jig
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:36:01 -0800
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I need to purchase a doweling jig that will allow me to drill holes in 
the ends of a  2 1/2" X 2 1/2" piece of wood.  These are legs for a TABLE
so I can't use a drill press for the job.

Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can buy a jig?  Would prefer 
the type that clamps in a vise, or ??

e-mail please

jriley@calweb.com
-- 
           \|/  
          (. .)
 ____.oOO--(_)--OOo.______________________________________________
|                                                                 | 
|  John Riley                      Email : jriley@calweb.com      |
|  http://www.calweb.com/~jriley                                  |
|  Coming to you from Antelope, CA.                               |
|_________________________________________________________________|


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:23 EST 1997
Article: 193223 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:41:41 -0500
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Mark Stamp wrote:
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good jig saw? I was considering
> the Dewalt DW321k (about $168, mail order). Any suggestions
> in this price range would be most welcome. Thanks.
> 
> Mark Stamp

I shopped for a while.  IMnotsoHO, the only choice is the Bosch 1587VS.

There is a lot I like about this (I had a Craftsman that really stank)
but I was convinced when I saw a rep at the trade show turn on the saw,
swing it down onto a sheet of 3/8 plywood (without a hole started) and
watched the saw lance straight through the wood and start cutting.


From eloso@azstarnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:24 EST 1997
Article: 193224 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bear" <eloso@azstarnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 tablesaw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 05:00:41 GMT
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David,

I have a Unisaw with the 1 1/2Hp motor and regularly cut
8/4 hardwood such as white oak and rock maple without any burning or blade
stoppage.  I've had this Unisaw for 10 years and am quite satisfied with
the capability of the motor.  Yes, I would love to have one of the larger
motors but really cannot justify it.

Bear

DAVID MEIER <DAVIDMEIER@webtv.net> wrote in article
<5hfthv$c5c$1@nnrp-102.bryant.webtv.net>...
>      I have recently won, but not yet received this saw.  Since I don't
> have a tablesaw, and I can add most all of the Delta accessories to it,
> I intended to keep it. However, every salesman and Delta representative
> I talk to says I need to upgrade to a 34-444 or 34-445 due the better
> motor.
>      I am a weekend warrior who hopes to have the time to complete 3-4
> medium size projects a year. I have inherited a fairly well rounded
> woodshop including:
> 10" RAS, drill press, lathe, oscilating sander, jointer, and assorted
> routers and drills. Half of my projects are made out of pine and half
> hardwoods. Do I really need to spend the extra dollars for the larger
> motor? I would be very interested in hearing any opinions.  If you have
> the 34-670 , how do you like it?
> 
>    Thanks in advance.
> 
> David
> 
> The odds of a piece of bread falling to the floor butter side down are
directly proportionate to the cost of the carpet.
>                           Murphy's Law
> 


From patmac@insnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:25 EST 1997
Article: 193225 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:11:22 -0600
From: patmac@insnet.com
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <333C65E8.27CC@erols.com>,
  fessler@erols.com wrote:
>
> Let me preface my post by saying that I am not affiliated with Paul
> Winchell in any way, but if you want a great pair of sliver tweezers...
> Best Regards,
> Dave Fessler

This post was not necessary.  I would bet most posters to this
group have received the unsolicited advertising e-mail.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mjprusik@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:26 EST 1997
Article: 193226 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS Tools in NJ
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:30:29 -0500
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I have the following tools FS in Old Bridge, NJ:

DELTA 14" Radial Arm Saw, 1" arbor, single phase, needs table, Model No. 33-381 - 
$1200.00 OBO

DELTA 46-700 12" wood lathe with factory stand, all OEM accessories, center finder, 
wood for turning, home made mobile base and set of turning tools - $650.00 OBO

Porter Cable 12 volt drill set - twin drills, two batteries, one charger and one metal 
case.	$175.00

PANASONIC 9.6 volt cordless drill set, two batteries and metal case	$125.00

E-mail if interested.

Matt




From mjprusik@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:27 EST 1997
Article: 193227 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matt Prusik <mjprusik@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bellsaw Planer
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:16:11 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193227

Bill:
	I've got one and for $400.00 it's a helluva machine.  That's 
what I paid for mine with a gang rip attachment in addition to the 
planer and a 3 HP single phase motor with a magnetic starter.  
	The company is still in business and still supports these older 
machines.  Overall, it's a better buy than the DELTA "table top" planer 
and much more akin to the ~$800.00 JET model.
	Best of luck!
	Matt




From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:28 EST 1997
Article: 193228 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch router: bit too tight?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 06:33:26 GMT
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On 21 Mar 1997 14:46:27 GMT "dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu (Darren Scott
Cobb)" posted to "rec.woodworking" on the subject "Bosch router: bit too
tight?" :
<snip>
-->is "self-extracting."  However, I simply could not get the bit
-->out until I tapped it lightly.  The bit in question is a new Freud 
-->1/4" "classical" design.  I inserted it all the way, and then
-->backed it out about 1/4" before tightening like the manual says 
-->to do.
-->
Caution:  don't try this based on my recommendation!  YMMV

I use 3 in 1 oil on the shanks of my router bits.  A dab on a napkin, and
wipe it on, then use dry part to remove as much as possible.  I store the
bits in holes drilled in a block of wood:  I have heard of soaking the wood
with a little oil and wiping dry every use.  I would stay away from grease,
I think it is slipperier, as a rule than oil.  

I started with a Porter Cable and a Bosch, both with standard type collets.
Having trouble EVERY time I used a bit, I resorted to oil.  The bit shanks
are high carbon steel, and rust readily here in the southeast.  Never have
had ANY creep, tho it could happen, especially with larger bits. 

What sort of design or materials would cure this situation for good I don't
know, tho some chromium in the alloy might help.  Now I have a 1613EVS, and
I like it a lot.  It goes a long way to resolving the stuck bits, and it is
smooth and pretty powerful, but tippy on the original base and the plunge
action has never been really smooth (and I still oil the bits' shanks)....
TS


From edswanson@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:29 EST 1997
Article: 193229 of rec.woodworking
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From: edswanson@aol.com (EDSWANSON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router table plans
Date: 29 Mar 1997 07:01:27 GMT
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Check the back issues of shop notes magazine.  I built a table from it and
it turned out quite well.  Also WOOD magazine (back issue has a good plan.

Ed


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:04:30 EST 1997
Article: 193230 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw  for wheelchair user
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:03:54 -0600
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Jerome R Yezierski wrote:
> 
> I looking for feedback on what would be a tablesaw of choice for a
> woodworker that is now in a wheelchair.
>   What TS has the largest table do once the wood is cut it doesn't fall
> on the floor causing me to move around to the other side of the TS.
>   I have been using a RAS with plenty of ease but I'm looking for
> accuracy in ripping and crosscuts.
>    I have used an antique Craftsmen to see if I would like a TS.Problem
> being reaching to hold the cut wood so it doesn't fall on the floor.I
> don't want to cut my hand/arms now that they do double duty as legs
> also.
>     I've seen TS with extensions for the left/right sides of the table
> but nothing on the outfeed side.
>      Ok you TS guru's help me out please.
>   TIA
> Jerome

Like the others have said it should easy to add an outfeed table to most
any TS.  My choice, if I had enough friggin' space, would be a large
piece of plywood laminated with formica.  My only other thought is the
saw hieght and how it might limit your access to to the table - most
contractor style TS have a bolt together steel stand and it would be
very easy to shorten the legs to bring the tabletop down to waist level
(you might even find a manufacturer to do it for free). 
    I think you can easily modify a TS to meet your needs - God knows
it's the one tool most of us couldn't live without.

Good Luck
Buzz


From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:04:31 EST 1997
Article: 193231 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need drill press advice
Date: 29 Mar 1997 07:02:03 GMT
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In article <19970328223401.RAA22361@ladder01.news.aol.com>, 
awrobinson@aol.com says...
>
>As an aspiring wood worker, I'm in the market for 
>a drill press. My budget is about $200. Based on posts 
>I've seen on this group, the three brands I've been 
>considering are Delta, Jet, and Grizzley. 

$200 will get a good used press, with more capacity than
what youll get otherwise. Look around before you buy new.

stev




-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:04:31 EST 1997
Article: 193232 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: 29 Mar 1997 07:07:07 GMT
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In article <859612079.128735@optional.cts.com>, bakalis@cts.com says...
>
>This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
>resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.
>
>Steven B.
>

But it doesnt repair easy. And if its on a workbench, it will get 
chipped, scratched, and generally mutilated or youre not doing much 
work on it. 

stev



-- 
Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
The auto reply address is a fake.
************************************
Spammers READ:
Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
you have to offer.



From amatlosz@myhost.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:32 EST 1997
Article: 193233 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Anthony Matlosz" <amatlosz@myhost.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Multi-Use Tool's
Date: 29 Mar 1997 07:17:30 GMT
Organization: All USENET -- http://www.Supernews.com
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I have no personal experience with the Smithy, but suggest you also check
out Taiwanese clones offered by Enco and Harbor Freight Tools, which are in
the neighborhood of 1/3 the price.

Regards, 
Buddy Matlosz
amatlosz@myhost.com

Dble tapp <dbletapp@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970328062300.BAA09578@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> There is a lathe/mill/drill made by the Smithy Company with angle vise
for
> $2900. Is this a good price, and a good product? My boss is looking for a
> unit which has these functions, but can't remember which ones were good.
> Do any of you have a suggestion as too multi-tool units, and where we
> could find a good used one?
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Ernie
> 


From danfloyd.NOMAIL@sprintmail.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:33 EST 1997
Article: 193234 of rec.woodworking
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From: danfloyd.NOMAIL@sprintmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:18:36 -0600
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FP1 wrote:
> 
> I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret later
> on.
> If you have any good tips/plans for a homemade router table please let me
> know.
> Thanks
> Frankie
Counter top sink cut outs are a good size for making router tables and
table extensions. They don't warp and are smooth. Many lumber yards and
home improvement centers sell the cutouts at scrap prices.

If you have plastics company in your area they will sometimes sell scrap
at a reduce price. If you use LEXAN for the table insert use carbide
blades and bits or the plastic will melt rather than cut.  You may want
to make several insets to accomodate different bit diameters. Use 3/8"
to 1/2" to prevent sagging.

For precision and flexiblity you may want to invest in a quality fence.
One of the other responses mentions a source for attachments, Eagle
American also has a wide variety of overpriced attachments. Or you could
just clamp a straight board on the table and go to it. If you do make
your own table take the time to add safety gaurds, they don't have to be
inconvienient to be usefull.

Remove NOMAIL to respond.


From CrawfordL@rest.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:34 EST 1997
Article: 193235 of rec.woodworking
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From: CrawfordL@rest.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based Urethanes (previously Diamond Finish, etc.)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:56:44 GMT
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On 28 Mar 1997 07:25:08 GMT, fuzz@nut.wood (stev) wrote:

>In article <01bc3a4f$6f4bd780$a41f02c7@jmr.btw.com>, jmr@btw.com says...
>>
>>I saw a note on Varathane's Diamond Finish and can add this:
>>
>>We tested it, and several similar products, on fir, oak and pine, both with
>>and without stains. None added the richness we have come to like on top of
>>bare wood. So we are staining first. You can use oil-based polyurethane as
>>the first coat to get the old amber-hue. 
>>
>>We tried Zar, Zarathane and Sikkens' water-based urethanes and settled on
>>Zar because it brushes on thicker, yeilding better a build. With
>>Varathane's product, I had to put it on VERY thin to keep it from running
>>and always needed three coats.
>
>I put it down over a few coats of watco. The watco brings out the color,
>especially in cherry. Now that I said that, someone suggest a good rub on
>poly finish I can put on this dresser Im building. Otherwise, maybe Ill
>try this Zar, cause like you say, the varathane is runny and brushing it
>on vertical surfaces is a pain.
>
>stev
>
>
>-- 
>Send any Email to stev@ix.netcom.com
>The auto reply address is a fake.
>************************************
>Spammers READ:
>Dont waste your time sending unwanted solicitations
>to my address. There is no way I will buy anything
>you have to offer.
>

I prefer three "thin" coats to one or two thick ones, and since you
can recoat in two hours it's not a problem to do all in one day. I'd
have to agree that vertical surfaces are a bitch .


From bandy@spambgone.org Wed Apr  2 12:04:35 EST 1997
Article: 193236 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Scott Beals <bandy@spambgone.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Redwood OK for a Deck?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:10:34 +0000
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Bruce Bauer wrote:
> 
> *davefr@mindspring.com wrote:
> >
> > Redwood is excellent in terms of looks, longevity, and stability.  The
> > only problem is finding it.  A lot of redwood on the market is crap.

It certainly is if you go to a place like Home Despot.  But find a good
lumberyard and you can get some really nice pieces.  The problem then
becomes that your material costs will then exceed the project costs if
you contracted it out [unless you can buy wholesale].  :*(

We found a [fencing] contractor who runs his own yard that put up a very
nice fence for us.

[I'm assuming the same problem exists with decking]


JUST DON'T USE FIR!

Fir dry-rots like mad and the termites love the stuff.

/signed/

	Andy In Termite [ex-orchard] Country



p.s.

> them looking good.  This is good to do at least annually. The clear red
> cedar looks better than redwood, and of course is more expensive.  The

And if you look at enough homes for sale, you'll find "termite reports"
that detail use of fir instead of redwood and massive dryrot.

Remember the deck in San Frank's Disco that collapsed a few years back
and killed eleven people?

Fir.

[don't you find it silly that folks who use text editors still use the
"p.s." form?]
-- 
HOPLOPHOBIA IS A SOCIAL DISEASE
http://www.scruz.net/~ab/
bandy at cinnamon dot com	DoD#1005
'75 Yamaha RD200, '89 Honda Pacific Coast PC800

posting address buggered to prevent spammers from wasting my precious
dollars
downloading their crap


From DAVIDMEIER@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:36 EST 1997
Article: 193237 of rec.woodworking
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From: DAVID MEIER <DAVIDMEIER@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:14:35 -0500
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     As a retail salesman for an electronics store who is also a
customer of both warehouse clubs and specialty stores, let me draw some
analogies and then suggest a shopping strategy.
     As  a specialty retailer in electronics we carry both common and
esoteric brands/items. We have educated and trained sales personel to
evaluate your needs and recommend appropriate products. We have a price
guarentee for the customer's protection from local marketing strategies.
Warehouse clubs only have low prices on common and many times
discontinued items and offer no trained personel.
      As a specialty retailer and commissioned salesmen I gladly match
any valid price. I make my living and stay in business  because of loyal
repeat customers.  However, my knowledge and availability to answer
questions and solve problems after the sale do not come free.
Everyday customers want the advantage of my skills, knowledge, and
customer service at the same price as a no service retailer. When you
buy that saw at a warehouse club and have a question about it who are
you going to call? The manufacturer? Maybe, but it's after 5:00 p.m. and
you have been on hold for 10 minutes. Now  you end up calling the local
retailer with the trained people and asking them the questions expecting
them to help you for free.  
     Therefore I suggest you support your specialty store with all of
your purchases in that field of interest. Find a good retailer with a
price match policy and develop a relationship with the salesman.  A
"good salesman" will notify you about sales, steer you towards better
products, and take care of you after the sale.  Then go buy your
groceries and household items at the warehouse club.
     As a consumer I find it frustrating to have a question about a
product and after consulting the salesperson realize that I know more
about the product than they do. We need to identify the quality
retailers and support them with all of our related business.
       Almost forgot, how do you find this "Good Salesman"?  That's
easy. Simply introduce yourself and explain that you are looking for a
local retailer to buy all of this type of merchandise from. Tell him the
products your interested in and ask to him to notify  you of
opportunities and sales.  If he is not already taking notes in his
personal notebook of regular customers then he's not your man. Move on.
     

David

The odds of a piece of bread falling to the floor butter side down are directly proportionate to the cost of the carpet.
                          Murphy's Law


From davandersn@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:37 EST 1997
Article: 193238 of rec.woodworking
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From: davandersn@aol.com (David Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 08:51:27 GMT
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scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin) wrote:


>The above subject line may be a bit misleading, but I didn't know exactly how
>else to phrase it.  What I'd like to do is to explore a subject with the group
>about where we buy our more ordinary tools.  I'm just using these two fine
>stores as examples.

>Woodworker's Supply is being used to categorize a catalog/store that
>specializes in selling a wide range of tools, supplies and materials for the
>woodworking hobbyist and probably also some professional woodworkers.  

>Home Depot is being used to categorize all general purpose hardware stores,
>lumber yards and home improvement stores.

>I don't think that anybody would argue that Woodworker's Supply has a much
>wider range of tools and other inventory specifically inclined to us
>woodworkers, while Home Depot sells a much wider range of materials and
>supplies for the building trades and general homeowners.  However, the two
>retailers "OVERLAP" in some areas- particularly in their line of general
>purpose handtools and power tools.  Home Depot also sells some floor tools,
>but not nearly the selection that is found at Woodworker's Supply.

>Now here is where I want to introduce something that may be a tad
>controversial.  Simply stated,  WHENEVER POSSIBLE, I PREFER TO BUY FROM
>WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY, if the price of the tool in question is even roughly
>comparable to that found at Home Depot.  I've even found that they'll match
>the price of Home Depot when the tools are identical.

>My reason for doing this isn't because I'm mad at Home Depot.  In fact, I
>really like the place and shop there a lot for building materials, electrical
>supplies, plumbing supplies and all other sorts of things, including flowers
>and trees.  However, the reason I favor a place like Woodworker's Supply, when
>the product is available at BOTH stores, is that by buying even the most
>mundane tools from Woodworker's Supply, I help keep the store in business. . .
>and therefore I am assured that there will be a source in the future for the
>unusual tools, supplies and materials that appeal uniquely to me as a
>woodworking hobbyist. 

>Its a bit selfish, but I just love the idea of having a catalog or store that
>sells a wide and varied range of the tools, materails, supplies and "advice"
>that fit into the buying needs of my own workshop.  By supporting this type of
>enterprise, I feel that I'm helping myself in the long run.  

>Another example of this is a wholesale club, such as Sam's.  There, the club
>buys items from manufacturers that are the more popular items and that might
>normally carry the highest profit margins for specialty retailers.  For
>instance, an appliance store selling a refrigerator may rely heavily on the
>profit margins from the sale to stay in business---- and thus also offer
>repair parts, for not only the refrigerator, but also the stoves, ovens and
>dishwashers that it sells and services.  Sam's Club then comes in and sells
>just the main product line that the competing appliance store offers, while
>not carrying the miscellaneous other appliances and inventory.  

>In the short run, I can theoretically save a few bucks and some hassle by
>buying from Sam's Club limited selection of refrigerators.  The tradeoff is
>that the appliance store that I rely on for service and parts might fail
>eventually.  What I do is to first obtain the Sam's Club price and then give
>the appliance store the right to match that price, if I'm willing to buy the
>Sam's Club item.  This at least gives the smaller profit to the appliance
>store and helps to keep it in business. 

>Do others of you feel this way?

I think that you will find the smaller specialty retail store will
thrive by meeting the competition on price BEFORE you walk into the
store.  Retailers who mark the products way up and then give large
(and varying) discounts to those who ask remind me of late night TV
used car salesmen.  If it is cash and carry, I plan to carry it out of
the competitive store.  Yes, I factor after market service into the
price (just as the small shop charges for repairs and parts based on
the cost of service and parts).





From baywood@memes.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:38 EST 1997
Article: 193239 of rec.woodworking
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From: baywood@memes.com (Dave Lers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wooden Floor in Maple HELP!!!!!
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:14:16 GMT
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Kit Davidson <kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk> wrote:
 
>>>I am busy pasting wood strips of about 1/2 inch thick and 3" width on a 
>>>wooden surface to make a wooden floor.
>>>I am glueing them on the surface with PolyVinylAcetaat glue...the classic 
>>>wood glue. 
Try a mastic or a trowelable construction type adhesive. There is a
trowel on glue made for the 3/8" T and G flooring (solvent vs water
and flexible vs rigid). In brief the wood is warping due to the
moisture it is picking up from the glue.

>>these boards down.  They should be tongue and grooved and nailed on
This is true and it would make you a better floor all the way round if
you could mill a tongue a groove though the bits commonly available do
not provide the backside relief that insures a tight face.
>>
>Tongue and Groove flooring must never be glued. 
Never say never.
>glue and prevent movement the boards will take their only course and
>buckle
Ah but remember they are glued down :). 

We have a local installer, the old guy just retired after I don't know
how many years of laying floors, gluing it down just like the old man
did. They don't use paper they use a coating of yellow glue that the
wood is nailed to while the glue is wet.

While I probably wouldn't do my floor this way I don't see a point of
failure and I don't see a large hardwood floor expanding and
contracting as a unit, what magic can bring hundreds of unattached
pieces closer together? I can see some outward movement (expansion, in
the case of glue down it would be compression) but don't follow
contraction and understand that you can expect to have some small
degree of gap when the weather is warm and dry. Note a previous thread
where someone was trying to figure out how to clean up the tongue and
groove on recycled flooring.
--
Dave Lers
baywood@memes.com
http://www.memes.com/~baywood/


From logic@prairie.lakes.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:39 EST 1997
Article: 193240 of rec.woodworking
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From: logic@prairie.lakes.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Vertical Raised Panel Bits
Date: 29 Mar 1997 09:15:17 GMT
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Hi..

I'd like to know if any of you have any experience using vertical
raised panel bits in a PC 690 router.  I'm in the process of building
a pair of raised panel swinging doors in red oak and am debating
whether I should invest in such a bit or should use the table saw
to raise the panel instead.

TIA
Al Hart


From ncsl@paston.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:04:40 EST 1997
Article: 193241 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Sergent <ncsl@paston.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Free Adds Pages
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 09:10:04 -0800
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You can now advertise any surplus equipment or items.

View the following page to find out more.

http://paston.co.uk/ncsl/local.html


From bandy@spambgone.org Wed Apr  2 12:04:41 EST 1997
Article: 193242 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Scott Beals <bandy@spambgone.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Uncle Sam says no more Mahogany ?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:43:31 +0000
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[warning: heavy editing ahead.  I actually agree with both parties to
some extent]

MrCynick wrote:
> 
> Michael Rainville wrote:
> >
> 
> > It is my understanding that they are "ripping and burning entire
> > forests" to have open land for more people and cattle. If this is the
> > case, mahogany is simply a by-product of this process and if it is
> > given no value on the open market (import restrictions) then it too
> > will be burned. IMHO limitations are another "feel good" solution to 

Exactly.

> Much of the clear-cutting of rain forests in this hemisphere is being
> done by huge Asian logging corporations which have already wiped out

Just by huge corporations.  Our American [and Canadian?] companies are
still trying to convince us that they can harvest old-growth forests
without changing them.

> most of the big tracts of forest in their own countries.

Hey, gotta have toilet paper and paper for books.

Can't grow Hemp: too damn profitable and *bad* for the drug companies
and dow chemical!

How many people would need Prozac if they could just smoke a spleef or
eat a brownie made out of a weed that grows in all 51 states [Hi to all
my relatives and in-laws in the Great White North] to relax now and
then?

How in the world could we support our Prison Industry if we dropped all
of the laws about victimless "crimes"?

> Even if it were only for agriculture, though, clearing rain forests and
> displacing or destroying thousands of living species, just to make
> grazing land for cattle, is a horribly wasteful method of producing

Cattle, other cash and substinence crops.  Most folks haven't heard
about ZPG yet still have large families with [relatively] modern
sanitation and medical care.  TOO MANY PEOPLE!  Especially if they're
using inefficient agriculture methods.  [see below]

> luxury food.  People are raping the rain forests because they have
> depleted the soil in other areas by other wasteful practices.  

Rainforest soil is TERRIBLE for agriculture.  Why do you think they go
through the entire slash'n'burn hassle in the first place?

[otherwise, why would you have slow-growing hardwood in an "ideal"
climate?]

[THINK my brother, THINK]

[yes, I was a Blue-diaper baby]

> they get the revenue from timber sales (even though the land often
> belongs to indigenous peoples).

Who had no concept of property before the Europeans showed up....

Adapt or Die.

> solutions to this kind of problem.  Import restrictions can work very
> well if consistently enforced.

Aye, there's the rub.  The entire planet can't agree to boycott
Iraq/Saddam, much less agree to stop the trade in endangered [mammalian]
species, much less stop shipping trees around.

We still have one corporate buttmunch trying to log an old-growth
redwood forest here in California.  How are we going to get the
developing nations to behave if we can't?

> I believe there are lots of problems that governments are not best
> suited to solve,

Like most all of them.

> intervention, the free market will never force destructive industries to
> pay their real cost of doing business.  The free market allows them to

The uneducated market, you mean.

How many here still buy gas at Exxon stations?  How many can you count
in your neighborhood [I count Zero: the nearest one is about fifteen
miles away].

> make us bear the costs of environmental degradation, including topsoil
> depletion, silting of waterways, 

"Please give to help the flood victims in <tropical country>."

The real problem was that they didn't consider the actual costs of
stripping the mountains bare of timber before selling it off for a
short-term profit.

> You don't say what area you live in, but around here old fields get
> filled up with scrub pine and other "second-growth" vegetation, which is
> no replacement--ecologically or commercially--for the diverse old-growth
> forest we once had. 

Certainly not with modern fire control policies!  Fire good.

> Best wishes,
> 
> Jim Crutchfield
> Norfolk, Virginia
> http://vabch.com/mrcynick

Same to [the both of] you.  Really. 

-- 
HOPLOPHOBIA IS A SOCIAL DISEASE
http://www.scruz.net/~ab/
bandy at cinnamon dot com	DoD#1005
'75 Yamaha RD200, '89 Honda Pacific Coast PC800

posting address buggered to prevent spammers from wasting my precious
dollars
downloading their crap


From bandy@spambgone.org Wed Apr  2 12:04:41 EST 1997
Article: 193243 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andrew Scott Beals <bandy@spambgone.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:18:04 +0000
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FP1 wrote:
> 
> I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret later
> on.
> If you have any good tips/plans for a homemade router table please let me
> know.
> Thanks
> Frankie

1. Make a table
2. Put a hole in it.
3. Mount the router centered at the hole's center.


Actually, if you look at the little Dremel router table, you'll see that
it has a few positions to screw the right half of the fence into and a
slider for the left half.  At first this seems Quite Silly [to quote
Monty Python], but if you use it, you'll see that it's a FANTASTIC idea
that I have yet to see in a commercial router table -- they all have
fences where they zip back in tandem [supposedly], leaving you to get
the bit-fence distance correct if you're going to make an eensy-weensy
adjustment.
-- 
HOPLOPHOBIA IS A SOCIAL DISEASE
http://www.scruz.net/~ab/
bandy at cinnamon dot com	DoD#1005
'75 Yamaha RD200, '89 Honda Pacific Coast PC800

posting address buggered to prevent spammers from wasting my precious
dollars
downloading their crap


From emrys.williams@dial.pipex.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:42 EST 1997
Article: 193244 of rec.woodworking
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From: Emrys Williams <xer36@dial.pipex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Waterglass (Sodium Si.) for woods fireproofing ?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 10:08:18 +0000
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To: Gaetan Mailloux <ba221@FreeNet.Carleton.CA>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193244

About 30 years ago, I helped make the scenery for a play at school. Fire
regulations said that all the wood had to be treated with a fire
retardant, and they specified various methods. We treated some wood and
then set fire to both treated and untreated wood in the physics lab. The
treated wood burned faster.....

I can't remember what the retardant was, but their suggested one didn't
work, so I suspect that others aren't wonderful, either.

Gaetan Mailloux wrote:
> 
> I read in a book that we can use waterglass (Sodium or Potasium Silicate)
> for woods fireproofing.
> 
> Anyone know about it, or did try it ?


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:43 EST 1997
Article: 193245 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: jigsaw question??????????????
Message-ID: <8D4D48D.0233014C27.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 19:25:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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Bosch makes good Jig saws.......
                                    Lw

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:44 EST 1997
Article: 193246 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scrollsaw Patterns
Message-ID: <8D4D491.0233014C28.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 19:29:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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Try the library,Try the hundreds of places online by searchin for em
with a good search engine,,Call 1-800Winfield for craft pattern
catalog,,For crafty ideas Buy a colorin book and cut-out the pictures.
                                   LW

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:45 EST 1997
Article: 193247 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Cordless Drill???
Message-ID: <8D4D4AC.0233014C29.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 97 19:56:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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Remember if you can borrow your buddies Battery packs-Then they can
borrow yours! Sumpin to ponder eh?
                                    LW

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From simonc@interlynx.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:46 EST 1997
Article: 193248 of rec.woodworking
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Allon Percus wrote:
> 
> Keith M. Lucas (sillywiz@excession.demon.no.adverts.at.all.please.co.uk.earth) wrote:
> : Agis won't co-operate with the rest of the net community in dealing
> : with CP ( they said they had no grounds to terminate them on the basis
> : that Agis seems to have no AUP against e-spamming ) and has been
> : threated with what's known as the "UDP". Basically a number of other
> : networks are going to stop carry all traffic from Agis. This, it is
> : hoped, will cause the thousands of users connected through Agis such
> : problems that they will pressurise them into dropping the
> : account. It's already worked with Sprint and MCI ( just the threat was
> : enough ! )
> 
> If they do not deal with CP, lacking a suitable AUP, and if a UDP isn't
> enough to stop them the way it did with MCI, IMHO we should resort to the
> trusty old JDSASDC.  HTH.
> 
> WHAT THE HELL DO ALL THESE ABBREVIATIONS MEAN????!!!!!!
> 
> A.P.

H.I.I.K...
S.C.


From rodney.harmic@dol.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:47 EST 1997
Article: 193249 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33389F0E.431B@dol.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:59:10 -0500
From: Rodney Harmic <rodney.harmic@dol.net>
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Michael Fedock wrote:
> 
> Last night, my son and I had to do some unexpected sanding.  Suffice it
> to say that an error of tolerance of 1/128" over a series of 35 finger
> joints amounts to a deviation of about 1/4".  Anyway, I didn't use a face
> mask, as I usually do.  This morning, I have been finding the most
> remarkable substances eminating from my nose!  I tried to put them to
> use. So far, I have found them to be excellent wood fillers.  Has anyone
> else found good uses for a wodworker's nose substances?

Yeah, save 'em till you have a ball the size of a softball, bake in your
oven at 250 degrees for 45 minutes, cut 1/2" slices on the bandsaw
attachment to your Norelco razor, then dip the disks in toung oil. 
They make great coaster set gifts. 
Rod


From butzi@wserv.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:48 EST 1997
Article: 193250 of rec.woodworking
From: "F and ML Butzi" <butzi@wserv.com>
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Mark Young <marky@up.net> wrote in article <33373CF8.12E8@up.net>...
> I noticed the Ryobi AND the DeWalt have small dust/chip ports with
> obstructed paths; my Ryobi clogs consistently here, and I would think
> the DeWalt would also, though Ryyobi comes with a collection bag,
> whereas the DeWalt doesn't (to my knowledge). 
> 
> Anyone else have these gripes? I did notice since my last post about the
> angular adjustment of fences that the Ryobi seems to be the only one on
> the market that allows downward angular adjustment (down to 45 degrees)
> as well as upward... e.g. 135 degrees of motion); I think DeWalt only
> goes from 90 (fence pointing straight out) to 0 (90 degrees range of
> setting positions).
> 
> 
> 
> Mark Young				(newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
> acoustic@up.net
> http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972
> 


	My DeWalt has a collection bag.  My only gripe is that it fills quickly,
but that's because it's small.  No problems with obstructions.

		---Fred


From %sparky@mc.net% Wed Apr  2 12:04:49 EST 1997
Article: 193251 of rec.woodworking
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From: Slim Pickens <%sparky@mc.net%>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hand planes
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:26:50 -0600
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BAH wrote:
> 
> I've been looking to pick up a Record 04 smoothing plane.  I've noticed
> that some of them out there have a brass colored knob on the front that
> keeps the blade secure while others have a sort of flip-lock thing that
> you pull open to release the blade.  Both seem to be about the same
> price and both seem to tbe the high end of the Record line.  What if any
> is the difference?  Should I care?

-- 
˙WPCĄ
I have a Record 04 w/the 'flip-lock thing'....

This plane is wonderful.....although get the grooved soul (worth the
xtra cash)


From tomntina@odyssee.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:50 EST 1997
Article: 193252 of rec.woodworking
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From: tomntina@odyssee.net (Tom J.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:48:48 GMT
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Robert Krecak <bobk40@execpc.com> wrote:

>Ernest Shipley wrote:
>> 
>> I have an old bandsaw and it cuts good for curves, etc., but I have a
>> real problem trying to resaw with it. If I resaw stuff more than 3"
>> thick  I can't keep the blade from wondering around. I've done all the
>> "book tuning" I can think of. I use a tall fence. The blade seems to
>> always want to go to the side the fence is on no matter which side I put
>> it on. I've done the saw halfway thru thing and lined the fence up on
>> the mark but doesn't seem to help. I am now using 1/2"-3tpi skip tooth
>> blade by PS Wood. Anybody got any suggestions other than get a new one
>> |:) ?
>> Ernie
>Ernie,
>There are many things to check on a bandsaw. First make sure ALL the
>bearings are in good shape. If any of the support bearings on either of
>the wheels are loose when the edges are moved in and out they must be
>replaced or the wheels will spin inconsistently. Use a precision
>straightedge and check if the faces of the wheels are on the same plane.
>If not the lower wheel is usually moved in or out on the belt shaft.
>Check the blade guides to make sure they are properly adjusted. Remember
>the blade must be properly tracked and tensioned BEFORE  the guides are
>adjusted. Check the tires on the wheels for dirt, grit, etc. Use a new
>blade, sometimes the set is off causing wandering. I adjust my
>guideblocks so there is about 3-4 thousandths of an inch between them
>and the blade total.

>Bob Krecak


Ernie:

I have had the same problem and could never re-saw well usin the
fence.  I made a pair of guides by attaching 6" long pieces of 3/4
dowl to some 3/4 plywood.  One guide I attache to the fence, the other
I clamp to the table.  I set the guides to have the smallest distance
beween the dowls just in front of the blade with just enough room for
my stock to slide between them.  I then scribe a line on my board to
follow. I can now re-saw with no problem as I move the the board
slightly to compensate for the blade wanting to track to one side.  I
am sure others have a better way but this works for me.  I have trid
to provide a sketch to demonstate my setup but it will need some
imagination on your part.

 
      Blade      II
         I           II
===O O====II
        II          II
        II          II< Fence
        II
    Board

Tom



From doakley@netusa1.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:51 EST 1997
Article: 193253 of rec.woodworking
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From: doakley@netusa1.net (just for fun)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dewalt radial arm parts
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:50:58 GMT
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I have a old 1950's Dewalt radial arm saw and need information on
where to get parts. It's need a new motor. The local electric motor
shop is trying to find parts, but no luck yet. It's a model GWI.
If anyone could help, thanks! 

email at goakley@juno.com


From gdavis@terracom.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:52 EST 1997
Article: 193254 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Gary M Davis" <gdavis@terracom.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Woodworking Guild Forming
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:04:13 GMT
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC3C0F.5A2B62A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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We are trying to start up a woodworking guild here is south central
Wisconsin, Madison Area. Any woodworkers, professional or hobbiest are
encouraged to respond by email to me. I will be collecting names to invite
to an informational and exploratory meeting to be held in Madison near the
end of April.

Thanks for the band width, if you want more info, please contact me.

Gary

gdavis@terracom.net
------=_NextPart_000_01BC3C0F.5A2B62A0
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#0000FF" face=3D"MS Serif">We are trying to start up a =
woodworking guild here is south central Wisconsin, Madison Area. Any =
woodworkers, professional or hobbiest are encouraged to respond by email =
to me. I will be collecting names to invite to an informational and =
exploratory meeting to be held in Madison near the end of =
April.<br><br>Thanks for the band width, if you want more info, please =
contact me.<br><br>Gary<br><br>gdavis@terracom.net</p>
</font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BC3C0F.5A2B62A0--



From gdavis@terracom.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:53 EST 1997
Article: 193255 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Gary M Davis" <gdavis@terracom.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: patterns
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:05:15 GMT
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Check out http://theoak/gary/index.html



ebender <ebender@erols.com> wrote in article <333B52C0.243A@erols.com>...
> does anyone know where any sites where i can download patterns?
> please E-MAIL ME Alan Bender 
> ebender@erols.com
> 
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D3 =
color=3D"#0000FF" face=3D"MS Serif">Check out =
http://theoak/gary/index.html<br><br><br><br><font =
color=3D"#000000">ebender &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>ebender@erols.com</u><font color=3D"#000000">&gt; =
wrote in article &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>333B52C0.243A@erols.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;...<br>&gt; does anyone know where any sites where =
i can download patterns?<br>&gt; please E-MAIL ME Alan Bender <br>&gt; =
<font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>ebender@erols.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br>&gt; </p>
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From fphowell@earthink.net Wed Apr  2 12:04:54 EST 1997
Article: 193256 of rec.woodworking
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From: Frank Howell <fphowell@earthink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need drill press advice
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 04:27:17 -0800
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Awrobinson wrote:
> 
> As an aspiring wood worker, I'm in the market for
> a drill press. My budget is about $200. Based on posts
> I've seen on this group, the three brands I've been
> considering are Delta, Jet, and Grizzley.
> 
> The Delta 12 inch bench top would be the default
> choice. It is readily available locally and through
> catalogs, and the cost appears to be in the $170
> to $190 range. Because of some comments I've seen
> in this forum about problems with Delta quality,
> I've been looking into the other two brands.
> 
> Grizzley has a 14 inch bench top model with all
> the features of a much larger model: 5/8 inch
> chuck, 12 speeds, etc. The price is right at $190.
> Again, based on comments here, the quality is
> somewhat suspect. The feel I've gotten about
> Grizzley products is a qualified endorsement.
> Still, the price was right so I ordered one.
> However, Grizzley called back and said the
> cheapest method of shipping would cost $65.
> $65! That's more than a third of the price of the
> drill press. Woodworkers Supply shipped me a
> Delta Contracter saw last year for about $11.
> I canceled that order.
> 
> So then I called Jet and asked about their models.
> Jet seems to be pretty doggone proud of their drill
> presses. The ONLY one for under $200 was the 8
> inch. Plus I've had trouble find vendors of Jet
> equipment.
> 
> The questions I have are  pretty general. Anyone
> have any advice on how to proceed? The intended
> use of the drill press is for a hobby woodworking:
> jigs, boxes, small furniture, maybe the occasional
> piece of larger furniture. Is an 8 inch drill press
> large enough for that? Is the quality of the Jet
> that much better than Delta? Can Grizzley stay
> in business with shipping costs that high?
> 
> Many thanks in advance...
> 
> Andrew Robinson
> ---
> Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are mine alone and do not represent the views of America Online

I you have a Price Club or Costco in your area, look there for drill
presses. They don't always carry them , but when they do they have good
prices. I bought the Delta 14" bench top for $200 at a Costco. Another
choice is to buy used. I have seen the 12" Delta for a $100 in my area a
number of times.

Frank Howell


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:55 EST 1997
Article: 193257 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue for Veneering?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:26:11 GMT
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Depending on how large a surface, it is posible to buy different sorts of
hot melt glue in sheets.  I have been very successful for areas up to  i6
x 20 using a photo dry mounting tissue-really a hot glue.


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:55 EST 1997
Article: 193258 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi radial arm saw any good???
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:41:33 GMT
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I have a small (I frankly don't know if they have a large model) Ryobi and
am pretty pleased with it.  I have given it more use in the last two years
 than most hobbists would in a lifetime It has sort of an automatic cable
attached to the saw motor that controls pretty  well the rate of cutting. 
 The problems I have had, frankly have been my fault, and would have been
avoided with better work practices.
Having said that you do get pretty much what you pay and if cost were no
object I would have gotten amuch better saw.
  There is a good quality table saw in the shop and it is used for those
cuts where it is best suited. 


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:56 EST 1997
Article: 193259 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:48:50 GMT
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At Barnes & Noble, "Router Magic" is $27.95 less 10% (it's hardcover).

I prefer to buy books at the store where I can look them over first. Have
you noticed how many woodworking books have modern, glossy bright-color
photographs on front but the insides are old black and whites; just
rehashes of old books?

Router Magic has a bunch of nifty ideas but some of the jigs seem to be so
complex, I'd rather just buy the jig then spend the next two months
building it.

The first jig I'm going to try is the Dowel-Making Fixture on page 97.
Good instructions. Far better than the others I've seen in other books. I
simply can't buy good straight dowels.

Perhaps it's just me, but I get a little frustrated when they say "l spent
about 2 hours making this jig" and it takes me far longer just to get the
wood prepared.

In any case, I'm glad I have the book and had the chance to peruse it
before purchasing it.  Even if I get one good jig out of it, it'll be
worth the money.  I would never buy a book through the mail again (sight
unseen), even if it's less expensive. 


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:57 EST 1997
Article: 193260 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:50:55 GMT
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An effective way to hide the nail holes (regardless if the nails are
removed after the glue dries)  is to raise a chip with a chisel ( leaving
one end still attached to the work) and drive the nail under the chip then
glue the chip back down.


From amo1@post1.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:58 EST 1997
Article: 193261 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <333CD715.445C@inreach.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:47:17 -0800
From: hunter@inreach.com
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Subject: Re: Outdoor Finish for Redwood?
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seumas mccombie wrote:
> 
> Jim Dresser wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for recommendations for a finish that I can use on some
> > redwood furniture that I just built for my deck.  Thanks - Jim
> I have had nothing but excellent results with Sikkens products
> if the application methods are followed you should have the same results
> I have used this product on all my cedar projects
> hope this helps :^)
> seamus

I used Superdeck on the redwood deck and teahouse-style gazebo I built
last year as well as on the redwood side panels of a new hot tub. It's
all gone through a hot summer, rainy fall and snowy winter and the wood
still looks brand new. If you want to retain the natural look of the
wood I highly recommend this product. Get the Natural finish, that's
their Clear. It's also extremely easy to apply. Good luck.


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:04:59 EST 1997
Article: 193262 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 13:57:29 GMT
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>that there is probably a potential of high profit for anyone who wants to
market pond scumb today.<   
Sorry-Rush Limbauh has  that market sewed up


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:00 EST 1997
Article: 193263 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: 29 Mar 1997 14:01:37 GMT
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Love the  Milwaukee and a reciprocating saw is the best instrument for
doing destruction


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:05:01 EST 1997
Article: 193264 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building a new workshop!  where?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 13:55:53 GMT
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I've often wondered about running lines in the slab floor. Obviously
you've thought out your machine layout careully and are confident
about it. Care to share it with us? (What will you do in the even of a
clogin your vacuum line(s)?




From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:05:02 EST 1997
Article: 193265 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 tablesaw
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 13:56:10 GMT
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I agree with "Bear". I have a 1.5 HP motor on my contractors saw and a
3 HP on my Unsaw. So far, I've done nothing on th Unisaw that the
contractors couldn't handle.  (TW, my Delta catalog does not list a
model 34-670,)




From beergut@icenter.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:03 EST 1997
Article: 193266 of rec.woodworking
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From: beergut <beergut@icenter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:17:28 -0600
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Dave Fessell wrote:..

> Let me preface my post by saying that I am not affiliated with Paul
> Winchell in any way, but if you want a great pair of sliver tweezers you
> can keep handy on your keyring for that errant splinter, Paul's your
> man!  I just received mine from him (being the trusting soul he must be,
> he sends you the tweezers and the invoice at the same time) and they're
> great!  Contact him at w@winchell.com
> Best Regards,
> Dave Fessler

I have to agree with you there. Upon first look, while they were still
in the baggie, they look like something you could buy at a dollar store.
But upon closer examination, these little guys are machined to such a
small point that taking out a sliver is really quite easy. Had to try
them out on my 6 yr. old daughter the other day. It was a lot easier on
her then the safety pin. The distributer is in Canada, but the things
are made in the US. I now have to order another pair for the first aid
kit for camping, as these stay in my shop. I also have no affiliation
with the tweezer geezer and I commend him for shipping out these things
at no charge. 

regards beergut


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:05:04 EST 1997
Article: 193267 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:01:46 GMT
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FWW has a table design in one of its books - forget which one - which
takes care of the particular problem you mention. The fence is simply
attached to the table at one end, and pivots. The "free" end is then
clamped in whatever position from the bit you like. Very simple and
very effective.




From grphcart@gramercy.ios.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:05 EST 1997
Article: 193268 of rec.woodworking
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From: grphcart@gramercy.ios.com (Ross C. Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WD:  Radial Arm Saw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 14:34:03 GMT
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Wanted to Buy.  Radial Arm Saw in new or better condition.  10 of 8 1/4. 
Bench top or w/stand.


From glidden@GreenePA.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:06 EST 1997
Article: 193269 of rec.woodworking
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From: glidden@GreenePA.net (Pyper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Manual needed for old tablesaw
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:46:29 GMT
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I hope someone in this group can help me.  I have aquired my
grandfather's old table saw and I would like to locate a copy of a
manual for it.  The saw is a Sears Craftman, I believe model 100, but
I am not certain yet.  Currently it has a 1 hp 15 amp motor attached
that seems to work fine.  I am not sure about belt tension between the
motor and the blade.  Seems that every time I adjust the height of the
blade, I have to retension the belt.  This wouldn't be a problem
expect getting to the tensioning bolt is a real pain.  Please help if
you can.  Thanks.




From dow@flash.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:07 EST 1997
Article: 193270 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:50:14 -0600
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Garrett Lambert wrote:
> 
> FWW has a table design in one of its books - forget which one - which
> takes care of the particular problem you mention. The fence is simply
> attached to the table at one end, and pivots. The "free" end is then
> clamped in whatever position from the bit you like. Very simple and
> very effective.


In the most recent CMT catalog they've got a top, insert and stand for
sale separately... The top looks VERY easy, especially if you're going
to be using a TS extention... The plates look OK... I might buy one from
them.


-- 
===========================================================================
Michael R. Dow
Independent Excel Representative
RTD, Austin, TX

Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
be charged a $100 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
to me - consider this an official notice:

"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
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By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
whichever is greater, for each violation."

for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm


From dow@flash.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:08 EST 1997
Article: 193271 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael R. Dow" <dow@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: circular saws
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:54:44 -0600
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193271

Bob Potter wrote:
> 
> I have a Black & Decker which I paid $45 for a number of years ago.
> The bearings are shot.  I use it for outdoor stuff now (cutting fence
> posts, etc.) and am going to buy a better quality replacement.  I
> would suggest spending the extra money for good quality.
> 
> >I need to but a new circular.  I'm looking for suggestions.  Don't know if
> >it's worth paying $150 for one when I could buy three $50 for the same
> >price.  Comments???


I just got a DeWalt at Home Depot... Bearings on both sides of the
shaft, $129... There are various models, I picked the one that seemed to
fit the intended use plus a little extra.. :-)  I like it...  I could
have purchased the Skil HD77 (arguably the best), but the damned thing
is so heavy that I couldn't envision ut being applicable to the
light/medium duty use I would put it to.

-- 
===========================================================================
Michael R. Dow
Independent Excel Representative
RTD, Austin, TX

Legal Warning: Anyone sending me unsolicited/commercial email WILL
be charged a $100 proof-reading fee.  Do NOT send junk email
to me - consider this an official notice:

"By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer
meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C),
it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment.
By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section
is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500,
whichever is greater, for each violation."

for full text: http://www.ca-probate.com/faxlaw.htm


From billd@ssnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:09 EST 1997
Article: 193272 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: billd@ssnet.com (Bill Davis Jr.)
Subject: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Message-ID: <333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:57:35 GMT
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All,
	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?

Any advice would be helpful

Thanks!

Bill D
billd@ssnet.com



From pwilson@world.std.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:10 EST 1997
Article: 193273 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: pwilson@world.std.com (Pete Wilson)
Subject: Re: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Message-ID: <E7t8H1.4uI@world.std.com>
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <rmreid-2803971458340001@i4303f8a.cfa.ilstu.edu>
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In article <rmreid-2803971458340001@i4303f8a.cfa.ilstu.edu>,
Randy Reid <rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu> wrote:
>Can anybody out there give me the formula for figuring out the angles to
>construct a four sided pyramid?  I know there is one but for the life of
>me I can't find it.  Thanks for any help you may be.
> e-mail to :    rmreid@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu

Could you please post to the group as well? Very useful for other 
stuff that _resembles_ triangle. Didn't know such a formula existed.



From pwilson@world.std.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:11 EST 1997
Article: 193274 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwilson@world.std.com (Pete Wilson)
Subject: Re: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Message-ID: <E7t9BB.B2I@world.std.com>
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
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In article <333C9D6A.34EE@ix.netcom.com>,
Bill Pounds  <bpounds@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Randy Reid wrote:
>> 
>> Can anybody out there give me the formula for figuring out the angles to
>> construct a four sided pyramid?
<snip>
>
>There is a very nice shareware program for MS Windows which is exactly
>what you need. It's called miter and you can find it at the Wood
>Magazine site. To download it, go to;
>
>http://www.woodmagazine.com

Real nice site. Real nice-looking PC (no Mac) software: 

--Inch-Foot-Fraction Calculator: Add, subtract, multiply, and divide 
    measurements in feet, inches, and fractions of an inch. 
--Miter Calculator: Calculates miter and compound-miter angles for 
    figures of up to 50 sides.
--Dovetail Template Maker: Produces templates for dovetail joints. 
--Sheet Layout: Generates cutting diagrams. 
--Tool Journal: A database to keep track of your tools and equipment.
--Shop Designer: Lay out a floorplan for your shop with this program.
--Molding Calculator: Determines miter and bevel angles for crown moldings. 

>Bill Pounds >bpounds@ix.netcom.com >http://www.netcom.com/~bpounds/index.htm
x-no-archive:yes



From susanw@ricochet.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:12 EST 1997
Article: 193275 of rec.woodworking
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From: Susan Woodrum <susanw@ricochet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Manual needed for old tablesaw
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:26:44 +0000
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I believe the weight of the motor applies the proper tension.  the 
motor is supposed to go up and down with the adjustment of the blade.
Lon


From jonke@jagunet.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:13 EST 1997
Article: 193276 of rec.woodworking
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From: jonke@jagunet.com (Edward & Grace Jonke)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 10:26:54 -0500
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In article <19970327162400.LAA17122@ladder01.news.aol.com>, fp1@aol.com
(FP1) wrote:

> I'd like to make my own rather than buy something that I will regret later
> on.
> If you have any good tips/plans for a homemade router table please let me
> know.
>
 
  Check Norm Abram's router table. IMO it's the best design of any I've
seen.He made the table on one of his New Yankee workshop segments. Plans
sell for $10.


From no_more_spam@primeline.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:14 EST 1997
Article: 193277 of rec.woodworking
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The moving fingers of aromero <aromero@castaway.cc.uwf.edu> wrote: 

>ALL OF YOU WHO CANNOT LIMIT YOUR POSTS TO YOUR OWN NEWS GROUPS SHOUD BE
>F@$#ING SHOT!  QUIT CROSS POSTING  THIS CRAP!!!!!

Newsgroups:
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rec.radio,rec.railroad,rec.roller-coaster,rec.running,rec.scouting,rec.sex,rec..skateboard..shop..wear,
rec.skating,rec.skiing,rec.skydiving,rec.sport,rec.sports.baseball,rec.test,rec..toys,rec..travel,
rec.video,rec.windsurfing,rec.woodworking

Look familiar?

So... What was this about "...CROSSPOSTING THIS CRAP!!!!!"???

>  Thank You and I am sory for yelling

So for implying that you're a hypocrit.

--
Subtle
__
I've deduced that it was Professor Plum, in the Library,
with the pillow.

--
Due to large amounts of unwanted "buy this product" E-Mail, 
I've had to change my E-Mail address.

To reply, change the address:

no_more_spam@primeline.net

to

moorea@primeline.net

Sorry for any inconveniences.



From dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca Wed Apr  2 12:05:15 EST 1997
Article: 193278 of rec.woodworking
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From: dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: deck designer
Date: 29 Mar 1997 15:31:36 GMT
Organization: NSTN Windows User
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Would anyone know of a site where I could download a shareware program
that I could use to design my new deck?Please email me.

Thank You
David White
dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca 


From dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca Wed Apr  2 12:05:16 EST 1997
Article: 193279 of rec.woodworking
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From: dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David White)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: tamarack
Date: 29 Mar 1997 15:41:30 GMT
Organization: NSTN Windows User
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Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
 to share about this species?

Thank You
David White


From jthomp4432@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:16 EST 1997
Article: 193280 of rec.woodworking
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From: jthomp4432@aol.com (JThomp4432)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bridge City
Date: 29 Mar 1997 16:00:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <19970329160001.LAA13003@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I too, have had poor dealings with Bridge City. It finally got so bad that
I told them
to remove my name from their mailing list,after having been on their
"preferred"
customer list. Now I don't even use them any more because of my dislike
for the
company. I'll probably wind up selling all of them. If someone out there
wants them
let me know, I have a lot and there're the old style in real rosewood (
cocobolo ).
Now I use nothing but Starrett tools and have had real good dealings with
the local
suppliers.-Bob


From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:17 EST 1997
Article: 193281 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:13:17 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <333D3F9A.5035@pacbell.net>
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Philip Roybal wrote:
> 
> I've been waiting for two months for Constantine's to fill my order for
> mahogany veneer. They were vairly prompt about filling orders for poplar
> crossbanding and sapele and walnut burl veneers. I recently got a card
> saying my order would ship around the beginning of March, but it's not
> here yet.


Well, my monarch (large sheets of) mahogany veneer finally arrived
yesterday from Constantine. They look good. Just wish they handn't taken
so long to get here. (Shop gets cluttered with half-done projects). Hope
the rest of you waiting for mahogany veneer get yours now too.

Phil



From wddbl@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:18 EST 1997
Article: 193282 of rec.woodworking
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From: wddbl@aol.com (Wddbl)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworker Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 29 Mar 1997 16:45:18 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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All my mail order tool purchases have been ok.

I used Seven Corners Ace Hardware (AKA "Tools on Sale")  and

International Tools in Florida

Have had no problems but I have not ordered "Large Machines")

Regards

Doug



From bill@halcyon.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:19 EST 1997
Article: 193283 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bill" <bill@halcyon.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Manual needed for old tablesaw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 16:31:36 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 22
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You probably can go to Sears and order a manual.  I was very surprised by
what they are able to supply.  They even have a good selection of the old
parts.

Bill
-- 


Reply to bill@halcyon.com

> I hope someone in this group can help me.  I have aquired my
> grandfather's old table saw and I would like to locate a copy of a
> manual for it.  The saw is a Sears Craftman, I believe model 100, but
> I am not certain yet.  Currently it has a 1 hp 15 amp motor attached
> that seems to work fine.  I am not sure about belt tension between the
> motor and the blade.  Seems that every time I adjust the height of the
> blade, I have to retension the belt.  This wouldn't be a problem
> expect getting to the tensioning bolt is a real pain.  Please help if
> you can.  Thanks.
> 
> 
> 


From bigchris@pagesz.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:20 EST 1997
Article: 193284 of rec.woodworking
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From: bigchris@pagesz.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Accumiter Gauge / bar slot slop
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:51:39 -0500
Organization: Pagesz.net
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <333D489B.681A@pagesz.net>
References: <33317373.CE6@navprgms.mar.lmco.com> <19970321193201.OAA23308@ladder01.news.aol.com> <333445CD.55F3@axionet.com> <3339676B.7EA0@hpwarhj.an.hp.com> <335f074e.15724148@news.insync.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193284

CL Hamilton wrote:
> 
> my problem is just the opposite,  My bar slot is too tight for the bar so I
> have had to draw file the bar.
> Anyone else have this problem?
> thanks
> chas
> 
Only if you try to use a bar sized for a Delta, Jet or Powermatic in a
Craftsman TS.  The Craftsman's slots (in all but one model) are sized 12
thousands of an inch narrower than what has become the industry
standard. 

Chris Hubner


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:21 EST 1997
Article: 193285 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Doweling Jig
Date: 29 Mar 1997 16:56:36 GMT
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In article <333CAA41.3322@calweb.com>, John Riley <jriley@calweb.com> writes:

>
>I need to purchase a doweling jig that will allow me to drill holes in 
>the ends of a  2 1/2" X 2 1/2" piece of wood.  These are legs for a TABLE
>so I can't use a drill press for the job.
>
>Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can buy a jig?  Would prefer 
>the type that clamps in a vise, or ??
>
>

I rotated the motor/pulley on the post to get to pieces like you're describing (if I'm understanding correctly).  


From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:22 EST 1997
Article: 193286 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:04:31 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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On 28 Mar 1997 13:22:24 GMT, {removethistoreply}bonjoel@bonjoel.com
(Joel Shapiro) wrote:

>Grizzly has some in the $12-$15 range that are very good for adjusting 
>WW machinery.  I have one I got for $19 a year ago the compares very 
>favorably with my Starrett when checking DP runout, Miter slot to blade 
>squareness, etc.

I've wondered from time to time how a Grizzly or comparably-priced
import dial indicator would stack up in accuracy against a Starrett,
even if the comparison is just anecdotal.   I've been happy with the
grizzly indicator for years, and it seems to work great.  But
ignorance may be bliss here.  Suppose I could check it with feeler
gauges.  This subject is no doubt visited from time to time in
rec.crafts.metalworking, but I've not researched it. dcr


From warrenm@iafrica.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:23 EST 1997
Article: 193287 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Warren" <warrenm@iafrica.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Rockwell tilting arbor table saw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 17:08:59 GMT
Organization: IS & IS
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Hi,
I hope someone out there can help my dad and I. We have got our hands on an
old Rockwell tilting arbor table saw.  The numbers on the name plate are as
follows:
catalog: 34-400
serial number: DH5257
The only part we are missing is the "arbor bracket".  We have inquired all
over South Africa but nobody can help.  Could someone please put us in
contact with a powertool agent /store that could possibly help us in
obtaining the item we require?  Any leads would be appreciated!
Thanks in anticipation!

Warren Marshall


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:24 EST 1997
Article: 193288 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Phoney addresses to thwart spammers
Date: 29 Mar 1997 17:17:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <19970329171701.MAA17559@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I've noticed a large number of addresses with phoney return addresses and
the real address towards the bottom of the note.

Any programmer worth her (his) salt can easily filter out characters (i.e.
'*') that don't belong in an address and derive a legitimate address. This
is not rocket science; any high-school kid could figure it out.

Point is, if you wish to doctor up your address (either your return
address or your address embedded within your note), make sure that it
blends in with the rest of the text. It must be well camouflaged so that a
program can't detect it.  yes, it's a pain. But we are, after all, a
democracy.

JA


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:25 EST 1997
Article: 193289 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 29 Mar 1997 17:24:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <19970329172401.MAA18007@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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WOW! Have I missed something here? Where did 'Bennett' say anything racist
or anti-Semitic in any of his posts?

JA


Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:48:46 GMT
Message-ID: <tip*-280397104501@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu>

<snip>

And it certainly isn't to give Bennett an
opportunity to make racist and anti-semitic remarks. 


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:26 EST 1997
Article: 193290 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: PC Profile sander (was Need advice on PC nailers)
Date: 29 Mar 1997 17:29:35 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Had one. Used it for a couple of days. Returned it.  It was such a pain. I
found I could do sanding faster by hand.  It's a solution looking for a
problem.  Truly, one of the worst tools I've ever bought. I'm surprised
Porter-Cable would have put their name on it. Should have sold the rights
to Sears.


From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:27 EST 1997
Article: 193291 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: From my nose!
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:49:54 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
Lines: 22
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Michael Fedock wrote:
> >
> > Last night, my son and I had to do some unexpected sanding.  Suffice it
> > to say that an error of tolerance of 1/128" over a series of 35 finger
> > joints amounts to a deviation of about 1/4".  Anyway, I didn't use a face
> > mask, as I usually do.  This morning, I have been finding the most
> > remarkable substances eminating from my nose!  I tried to put them to
> > use. So far, I have found them to be excellent wood fillers.  Has anyone
> > else found good uses for a wodworker's nose substances?

They can be added to your collection that you store under a piano bench.
Didn't you ever see the cartoon "Ren & Stimpy" where Stimpy picks up his
piano bench to show us his stringy effluence saying, "Do you like them?
They are nose goblins. I picked them myself!"

They can also be used as props on The Howard Stern Show.

Last, don't ignore them as a valuable source of salt.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:28 EST 1997
Article: 193292 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The best deal on a Sears table saw .you will not find a better deal
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:46:28 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:33:03 GMT, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael
John Hide) wrote:

>I was fortunate to get a super deal on a delta Unisaw recently .it has
>been restored and is now in working order .It replaces a very old good
>
>Sears tablesaw,that I have used in my shop for the last 15 plus years
>Even as late as last week I was cutting 1/16"strips consistently on
>it ,this is with a bessimier fence which is now on the Unisaw .
space

>As I was originally given this saw ,I am offering the same to any one
>on this group .It would be nice if it was someone who is starting out
>who got it ,nevertheless I am afraid it is going to be first come
>first served . As i do this for a living I will be happy to help load
>it but I am afraid thats going to be about it .
cut

>                   mjh 
>

Way to go Michael, now that's the way to do it! I'm sure that there is
someone out there that will be grateful for such generosity.

Al


From booger&@yadtel.Net Wed Apr  2 12:05:28 EST 1997
Article: 193293 of rec.woodworking
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From: booger&@yadtel.Net (Bob & Suzy )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Upside-down router
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 13:35:30 GMT
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I just finished building a router table, and put my craftsman 1/4" router in 
it. After using it a few times, I noticed it made a new noise when I turned it 
off, like the bearings are too tight. I replaced the armature and top bearing 
recently, so the end play should still be adjusted correctly. Are some routers 
not suited for operating upside-down? I don't know if I can get away with a 
new router so soon after the table! 

Remove the  &  if e-mail is warranted. Thanks, Bob


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:30 EST 1997
Article: 193294 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pyramid (Compound angles)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 19:19:09 GMT
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pwilson@world.std.com (Pete Wilson) wrote:

>Could you please post to the group as well? Very useful for other 
>stuff that _resembles_ triangle. Didn't know such a formula existed.

The following is an extract from my file hopside.uue found at 
ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl.  This chart depicts the miter
angle 
and blade tilt for compund miter cuts as in crown mold or an inverted 
pyramid with various numbers of sides.  A right angle, for example would 
correspond to a four-sided figure, so you would look at the "4" column 
and trace down to the number of degrees of flair out from vertical.  This 
is usually 45 degrees.  

The actual chart for Excel or Quattro Pro includes a much larger number of
potential "sides" to the figure.  There is a sister-program called
hopangle.uue, which replaces the columns labeled "number of sides" with 2
degree increments of angle, including 33-1/3 and 45.  This is simply too
large to post here. 

Finally, there is a third file called hopper.uue that is a "calculator" 
where you input your change of direction or number of sides together with 
degrees of flair and read out the miter gauge and bevel settings directly.

I don't understand why I can't get the darn columns to align when I post the
file, but I think any interested person could figure the setting out from the
information below.

Tom Gauldin   scoundrl@mindspring.com




                 COMPOUND MITER CUT CALCULATIONS
                         NON-BEDDED CUTS
              
               ---------------------------------

                                                     NUMBER OF SIDES
                                                    3     4        5       6
etc.
                                                   ---  ---  ---  ---  ---  -
    DEGREE    2  BLADE TILT   59.9 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
    OF FLAIR     MITRE ANGLE   3.5  2.0  1.5  1.2  1.0   0.8   0.7   0.6
    OUT FROM  4  BLADE TILT   59.8 44.9 35.9 29.9 25.6  22.4  19.9  18.0
    VERTICAL     MITRE ANGLE   6.9  4.0  2.9  2.3  1.9   1.7   1.5   1.3
              6  BLADE TILT   59.5 44.7 35.8 29.8 25.6  22.4  19.9  17.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  10.3  6.0  4.3  3.5  2.9   2.5   2.2   1.9
              8  BLADE TILT   59.0 44.4 35.6 29.7 25.4  22.3  19.8  17.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  13.6  7.9  5.8  4.6  3.8   3.3   2.9   2.6
             10  BLADE TILT   58.5 44.1 35.4 29.5 25.3  22.1  19.7  17.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  16.7  9.9  7.2  5.7  4.8   4.1   3.6   3.2
             12  BLADE TILT   57.9 43.8 35.1 29.3 25.1  22.0  19.5  17.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  19.8 11.7  8.6  6.8  5.7   4.9   4.3   3.9
             14  BLADE TILT   57.2 43.3 34.8 29.0 24.9  21.8  19.4  17.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  22.7 13.6 10.0  8.0  6.6   5.7   5.0   4.5
             16  BLADE TILT   56.4 42.8 34.4 28.7 24.7  21.6  19.2  17.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  25.5 15.4 11.3  9.0  7.6   6.5   5.7   5.1
             18  BLADE TILT   55.5 42.3 34.0 28.4 24.4  21.3  19.0  17.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  28.2 17.2 12.7 10.1  8.5   7.3   6.4   5.7
             20  BLADE TILT   54.5 41.6 33.5 28.0 24.1  21.1  18.7  16.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  30.6 18.9 14.0 11.2  9.4   8.1   7.1   6.3
             22  BLADE TILT   53.4 41.0 33.0 27.6 23.7  20.8  18.5  16.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  33.0 20.5 15.2 12.2 10.2   8.8   7.8   6.9
             24  BLADE TILT   52.3 40.2 32.5 27.2 23.4  20.5  18.2  16.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  35.2 22.1 16.5 13.2 11.1   9.6   8.4   7.5
             26  BLADE TILT   51.1 39.5 31.9 26.7 23.0  20.1  17.9  16.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  37.2 23.7 17.7 14.2 11.9  10.3   9.1   8.1
             28  BLADE TILT   49.9 38.6 31.3 26.2 22.5  19.7  17.6  15.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  39.1 25.1 18.8 15.2 12.7  11.0   9.7   8.7
             30  BLADE TILT   48.6 37.8 30.6 25.7 22.1  19.4  17.2  15.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  40.9 26.6 20.0 16.1 13.5  11.7  10.3   9.2
             32  BLADE TILT   47.3 36.8 29.9 25.1 21.6  18.9  16.9  15.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  42.5 27.9 21.1 17.0 14.3  12.4  10.9   9.8
             33  BLADE TILT   46.6 36.4 29.5 24.8 21.3  18.7  16.7  15.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  43.3 28.6 21.6 17.5 14.7  12.7  11.2  10.0
             34  BLADE TILT   45.9 35.9 29.2 24.5 21.1  18.5  16.5  14.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  44.1 29.2 22.1 17.9 15.1  13.0  11.5  10.3
             36  BLADE TILT   44.5 34.9 28.4 23.9 20.5  18.0  16.1  14.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  45.5 30.4 23.1 18.7 15.8  13.7  12.1  10.8
             38  BLADE TILT   43.0 33.9 27.6 23.2 20.0  17.6  15.6  14.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  46.8 31.6 24.1 19.6 16.5  14.3  12.6  11.3
             40  BLADE TILT   41.6 32.8 26.8 22.5 19.4  17.0  15.2  13.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  48.1 32.7 25.0 20.4 17.2  14.9  13.2  11.8
             42  BLADE TILT   40.1 31.7 25.9 21.8 18.8  16.5  14.7  13.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  49.2 33.8 25.9 21.1 17.9  15.5  13.7  12.3
             44  BLADE TILT   38.5 30.6 25.0 21.1 18.2  16.0  14.2  12.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  50.3 34.8 26.8 21.9 18.5  16.1  14.2  12.7
             45  BLADE TILT   37.8 30.0 24.6 20.7 17.9  15.7  14.0  12.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  50.8 35.3 27.2 22.2 18.8  16.3  14.4  12.9
             46  BLADE TILT   37.0 29.4 24.1 20.3 17.5  15.4  13.7  12.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  51.2 35.7 27.6 22.6 19.1  16.6  14.7  13.2
             48  BLADE TILT   35.4 28.2 23.2 19.5 16.9  14.8  13.2  11.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  52.2 36.6 28.4 23.2 19.7  17.1  15.1  13.6
             50  BLADE TILT   33.8 27.0 22.2 18.7 16.2  14.2  12.7  11.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  53.0 37.5 29.1 23.9 20.2  17.6  15.6  14.0
             52  BLADE TILT   32.2 25.8 21.2 17.9 15.5  13.6  12.2  11.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  53.8 38.2 29.8 24.5 20.8  18.1  16.0  14.4
             54  BLADE TILT   30.6 24.6 20.2 17.1 14.8  13.0  11.6  10.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  54.5 39.0 30.4 25.0 21.3  18.5  16.4  14.7
             56  BLADE TILT   29.0 23.3 19.2 16.2 14.0  12.4  11.0  10.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  55.1 39.7 31.1 25.6 21.8  19.0  16.8  15.1
             58  BLADE TILT   27.3 22.0 18.1 15.4 13.3  11.7  10.4   9.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  55.8 40.3 31.6 26.1 22.2  19.4  17.2  15.4
             60  BLADE TILT   25.7 20.7 17.1 14.5 12.5  11.0   9.8   8.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  56.3 40.9 32.2 26.6 22.6  19.7  17.5  15.7
             62  BLADE TILT   24.0 19.4 16.0 13.6 11.8  10.3   9.2   8.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  56.8 41.4 32.7 27.0 23.0  20.1  17.8  16.0
             64  BLADE TILT   22.3 18.1 14.9 12.7 11.0   9.7   8.6   7.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  57.3 41.9 33.1 27.4 23.4  20.4  18.1  16.3
             66  BLADE TILT   20.6 16.7 13.8 11.7 10.2   9.0   8.0   7.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  57.7 42.4 33.6 27.8 23.7  20.7  18.4  16.5
             68  BLADE TILT   18.9 15.4 12.7 10.8  9.4   8.2   7.4   6.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.1 42.8 34.0 28.2 24.1  21.0  18.6  16.8
             70  BLADE TILT   17.2 14.0 11.6  9.8  8.5   7.5   6.7   6.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.4 43.2 34.3 28.5 24.3  21.3  18.9  17.0
             72  BLADE TILT   15.5 12.6 10.5  8.9  7.7   6.8   6.1   5.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.7 43.6 34.6 28.8 24.6  21.5  19.1  17.2
             74  BLADE TILT   13.8 11.2  9.3  7.9  6.9   6.1   5.4   4.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.0 43.9 34.9 29.0 24.8  21.7  19.3  17.3
             76  BLADE TILT   12.1  9.8  8.2  6.9  6.0   5.3   4.7   4.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.2 44.1 35.2 29.3 25.0  21.9  19.5  17.5
             78  BLADE TILT   10.4  8.5  7.0  6.0  5.2   4.6   4.1   3.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.4 44.4 35.4 29.5 25.2  22.1  19.6  17.6
             80  BLADE TILT    8.6  7.1  5.9  5.0  4.3   3.8   3.4   3.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.6 44.6 35.6 29.6 25.4  22.2  19.7  17.7
             82  BLADE TILT    6.9  5.6  4.7  4.0  3.5   3.1   2.7   2.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.8 44.7 35.7 29.8 25.5  22.3  19.8  17.8
             84  BLADE TILT    5.2  4.2  3.5  3.0  2.6   2.3   2.0   1.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.9 44.8 35.9 29.9 25.6  22.4  19.9  17.9
             86  BLADE TILT    3.5  2.8  2.3  2.0  1.7   1.5   1.4   1.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.9 44.9 35.9 29.9 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
             88  BLADE TILT    1.7  1.4  1.2  1.0  0.9   0.8   0.7   0.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  60.0 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
             90  BLADE TILT    0.0  0.0  0.0  0.0  0.0   0.0   0.0   0.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  60.0 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0

                 COMPOUND MITER CUT CALCULATIONS
                         NON-BEDDED CUTS
                                        ---------------------------------
                                                     NUMBER OF SIDES
                                 3    4    5    6    7     8     9    10
                               ---  ---  ---  ---  ---  ---   ---   ---
    DEGREE    2  BLADE TILT   59.9 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
    OF FLAIR     MITRE ANGLE   3.5  2.0  1.5  1.2  1.0   0.8   0.7   0.6
    OUT FROM  4  BLADE TILT   59.8 44.9 35.9 29.9 25.6  22.4  19.9  18.0
    VERTICAL     MITRE ANGLE   6.9  4.0  2.9  2.3  1.9   1.7   1.5   1.3
              6  BLADE TILT   59.5 44.7 35.8 29.8 25.6  22.4  19.9  17.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  10.3  6.0  4.3  3.5  2.9   2.5   2.2   1.9
              8  BLADE TILT   59.0 44.4 35.6 29.7 25.4  22.3  19.8  17.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  13.6  7.9  5.8  4.6  3.8   3.3   2.9   2.6
             10  BLADE TILT   58.5 44.1 35.4 29.5 25.3  22.1  19.7  17.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  16.7  9.9  7.2  5.7  4.8   4.1   3.6   3.2
             12  BLADE TILT   57.9 43.8 35.1 29.3 25.1  22.0  19.5  17.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  19.8 11.7  8.6  6.8  5.7   4.9   4.3   3.9
             14  BLADE TILT   57.2 43.3 34.8 29.0 24.9  21.8  19.4  17.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  22.7 13.6 10.0  8.0  6.6   5.7   5.0   4.5
             16  BLADE TILT   56.4 42.8 34.4 28.7 24.7  21.6  19.2  17.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  25.5 15.4 11.3  9.0  7.6   6.5   5.7   5.1
             18  BLADE TILT   55.5 42.3 34.0 28.4 24.4  21.3  19.0  17.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  28.2 17.2 12.7 10.1  8.5   7.3   6.4   5.7
             20  BLADE TILT   54.5 41.6 33.5 28.0 24.1  21.1  18.7  16.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  30.6 18.9 14.0 11.2  9.4   8.1   7.1   6.3
             22  BLADE TILT   53.4 41.0 33.0 27.6 23.7  20.8  18.5  16.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  33.0 20.5 15.2 12.2 10.2   8.8   7.8   6.9
             24  BLADE TILT   52.3 40.2 32.5 27.2 23.4  20.5  18.2  16.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  35.2 22.1 16.5 13.2 11.1   9.6   8.4   7.5
             26  BLADE TILT   51.1 39.5 31.9 26.7 23.0  20.1  17.9  16.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  37.2 23.7 17.7 14.2 11.9  10.3   9.1   8.1
             28  BLADE TILT   49.9 38.6 31.3 26.2 22.5  19.7  17.6  15.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  39.1 25.1 18.8 15.2 12.7  11.0   9.7   8.7
             30  BLADE TILT   48.6 37.8 30.6 25.7 22.1  19.4  17.2  15.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  40.9 26.6 20.0 16.1 13.5  11.7  10.3   9.2
             32  BLADE TILT   47.3 36.8 29.9 25.1 21.6  18.9  16.9  15.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  42.5 27.9 21.1 17.0 14.3  12.4  10.9   9.8
             33  BLADE TILT   46.6 36.4 29.5 24.8 21.3  18.7  16.7  15.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  43.3 28.6 21.6 17.5 14.7  12.7  11.2  10.0
             34  BLADE TILT   45.9 35.9 29.2 24.5 21.1  18.5  16.5  14.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  44.1 29.2 22.1 17.9 15.1  13.0  11.5  10.3
             36  BLADE TILT   44.5 34.9 28.4 23.9 20.5  18.0  16.1  14.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  45.5 30.4 23.1 18.7 15.8  13.7  12.1  10.8
             38  BLADE TILT   43.0 33.9 27.6 23.2 20.0  17.6  15.6  14.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  46.8 31.6 24.1 19.6 16.5  14.3  12.6  11.3
             40  BLADE TILT   41.6 32.8 26.8 22.5 19.4  17.0  15.2  13.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  48.1 32.7 25.0 20.4 17.2  14.9  13.2  11.8
             42  BLADE TILT   40.1 31.7 25.9 21.8 18.8  16.5  14.7  13.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  49.2 33.8 25.9 21.1 17.9  15.5  13.7  12.3
             44  BLADE TILT   38.5 30.6 25.0 21.1 18.2  16.0  14.2  12.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  50.3 34.8 26.8 21.9 18.5  16.1  14.2  12.7
             45  BLADE TILT   37.8 30.0 24.6 20.7 17.9  15.7  14.0  12.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  50.8 35.3 27.2 22.2 18.8  16.3  14.4  12.9
             46  BLADE TILT   37.0 29.4 24.1 20.3 17.5  15.4  13.7  12.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  51.2 35.7 27.6 22.6 19.1  16.6  14.7  13.2
             48  BLADE TILT   35.4 28.2 23.2 19.5 16.9  14.8  13.2  11.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  52.2 36.6 28.4 23.2 19.7  17.1  15.1  13.6
             50  BLADE TILT   33.8 27.0 22.2 18.7 16.2  14.2  12.7  11.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  53.0 37.5 29.1 23.9 20.2  17.6  15.6  14.0
             52  BLADE TILT   32.2 25.8 21.2 17.9 15.5  13.6  12.2  11.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  53.8 38.2 29.8 24.5 20.8  18.1  16.0  14.4
             54  BLADE TILT   30.6 24.6 20.2 17.1 14.8  13.0  11.6  10.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  54.5 39.0 30.4 25.0 21.3  18.5  16.4  14.7
             56  BLADE TILT   29.0 23.3 19.2 16.2 14.0  12.4  11.0  10.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  55.1 39.7 31.1 25.6 21.8  19.0  16.8  15.1
             58  BLADE TILT   27.3 22.0 18.1 15.4 13.3  11.7  10.4   9.4
                 MITRE ANGLE  55.8 40.3 31.6 26.1 22.2  19.4  17.2  15.4
             60  BLADE TILT   25.7 20.7 17.1 14.5 12.5  11.0   9.8   8.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  56.3 40.9 32.2 26.6 22.6  19.7  17.5  15.7
             62  BLADE TILT   24.0 19.4 16.0 13.6 11.8  10.3   9.2   8.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  56.8 41.4 32.7 27.0 23.0  20.1  17.8  16.0
             64  BLADE TILT   22.3 18.1 14.9 12.7 11.0   9.7   8.6   7.8
                 MITRE ANGLE  57.3 41.9 33.1 27.4 23.4  20.4  18.1  16.3
             66  BLADE TILT   20.6 16.7 13.8 11.7 10.2   9.0   8.0   7.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  57.7 42.4 33.6 27.8 23.7  20.7  18.4  16.5
             68  BLADE TILT   18.9 15.4 12.7 10.8  9.4   8.2   7.4   6.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.1 42.8 34.0 28.2 24.1  21.0  18.6  16.8
             70  BLADE TILT   17.2 14.0 11.6  9.8  8.5   7.5   6.7   6.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.4 43.2 34.3 28.5 24.3  21.3  18.9  17.0
             72  BLADE TILT   15.5 12.6 10.5  8.9  7.7   6.8   6.1   5.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  58.7 43.6 34.6 28.8 24.6  21.5  19.1  17.2
             74  BLADE TILT   13.8 11.2  9.3  7.9  6.9   6.1   5.4   4.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.0 43.9 34.9 29.0 24.8  21.7  19.3  17.3
             76  BLADE TILT   12.1  9.8  8.2  6.9  6.0   5.3   4.7   4.3
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.2 44.1 35.2 29.3 25.0  21.9  19.5  17.5
             78  BLADE TILT   10.4  8.5  7.0  6.0  5.2   4.6   4.1   3.7
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.4 44.4 35.4 29.5 25.2  22.1  19.6  17.6
             80  BLADE TILT    8.6  7.1  5.9  5.0  4.3   3.8   3.4   3.1
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.6 44.6 35.6 29.6 25.4  22.2  19.7  17.7
             82  BLADE TILT    6.9  5.6  4.7  4.0  3.5   3.1   2.7   2.5
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.8 44.7 35.7 29.8 25.5  22.3  19.8  17.8
             84  BLADE TILT    5.2  4.2  3.5  3.0  2.6   2.3   2.0   1.9
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.9 44.8 35.9 29.9 25.6  22.4  19.9  17.9
             86  BLADE TILT    3.5  2.8  2.3  2.0  1.7   1.5   1.4   1.2
                 MITRE ANGLE  59.9 44.9 35.9 29.9 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
             88  BLADE TILT    1.7  1.4  1.2  1.0  0.9   0.8   0.7   0.6
                 MITRE ANGLE  60.0 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0
             90  BLADE TILT    0.0  0.0  0.0  0.0  0.0   0.0   0.0   0.0
                 MITRE ANGLE  60.0 45.0 36.0 30.0 25.7  22.5  20.0  18.0

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From B.Wingard@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:31 EST 1997
Article: 193295 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob Wingard <"B.Wingard@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The best deal on a Sears table saw .you will not find a better deal
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:48:38 -0500
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Al Taylor wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:33:03 GMT, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael
> John Hide) wrote:
> 
> >I was fortunate to get a super deal on a delta Unisaw recently .it has
> >been restored and is now in working order .It replaces a very old good
> >
> >Sears tablesaw,that I have used in my shop for the last 15 plus years
> >Even as late as last week I was cutting 1/16"strips consistently on
> >it ,this is with a bessimier fence which is now on the Unisaw .
> space
> 
> >As I was originally given this saw ,I am offering the same to any one
> >on this group .It would be nice if it was someone who is starting out
> >who got it ,nevertheless I am afraid it is going to be first come
> >first served . As i do this for a living I will be happy to help load
> >it but I am afraid thats going to be about it .
> cut
> 
> >                   mjh
> >
> 
> Way to go Michael, now that's the way to do it! I'm sure that there is
> someone out there that will be grateful for such generosity.
> 
> Al
I know somebody who would very much be interested in your generosity .
.  only problem is . . . where are you ???

-- 
							<<< BOB >>>



May God be above you to bless you, within you to sanctify you, around
you to protect you, and before you to guide you.


From tucker21@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:31 EST 1997
Article: 193296 of rec.woodworking
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From: tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Making Pine Look Old
Date: 29 Mar 1997 19:52:36 GMT
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  I am into shaker and colonial furnature and keep trying to get the
"real" old look of pine from new wood.  I have tried different stains and
even barn siding (this comes the closest until you plane it) and I would
love any ideas.



From mcjx@mcgill.ca. Wed Apr  2 12:05:32 EST 1997
Article: 193297 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robin axten <mcjx@mcgill.ca.>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spam does hurt us (Was Re: Nailing Spamers)
Date: 29 Mar 1997 19:14:44 GMT
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I wonder if you have heard of the Canadian law which will prevent cigarette manafacturers from sponsoring sports and cultural 
events? Started as banning certain types of advertising. My point is its one thing to prevent or prohibit advertising on the telephone, 
but I would be leary about preventng it on the Internet.
   "Be careful what you wish for, you might get it!'

     ) ) ) 
    ( ( ( 
     ) ) )   
  _|*****|   
 ( |       |   Robin Axten
  `|____|   ---------------- MCJX@MUSICA.MCGILL.CA  ----------------

	                     "Now here's a howdy'do!"




From maplelw@sover.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:33 EST 1997
Article: 193298 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 19:56:53 GMT
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What you do how you do it depends on your purpose for wanting to
"kill" the power. If you want to simply be sure that someone doesn't
come along and accidently turn on a machine, keep them unplugged. 

I'm not sure if you are planning a subpanel but I would suggest it for
many reasons. For my peace of mind in my old shop I simply flipped off
the circuit breakers when I closed up at night. Thus I could be sure
something hot wasn't left on or some wire wouldn't catch in some
sawdust. In the warm months I shut off the main breaker, in the colder
months, I shut off all circuit breakers except for the furnace.

I am sure there are those that will say this is not a proper use of
the breakers but it didn't cost anything extra except for two that I
replaced over a 12 year period.  

Some people thought I was a little overboard, I'm not a safety nut
either, but the fire dept was pleased when they had to come one night
and didn't have to worry about hot wires.

Mike Rainville

>I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or switches) on the 
>outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in my new backyard workshop.  I 
>am about to start running the wiring in the shop.  I was thinking to put a bank of 
>20 amp double pole switches near the door with each switch killing one or two branch 
>circuits.  This obviously adds a bit to the cost of the wiring job and everyone I 
>talk to about this (none of them are woodworkers) look at me like I'm looney for 
>even thinking about it.  Are kill switches really overkill?

>Also, is there a better way to switch off the branch circuits that isn't too 
>expensive?  I had thought to use a multi-pole contactor, but the $200+ cost made me 
>change my mind.

>John Halbur







From wittco@axionet.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:34 EST 1997
Article: 193299 of rec.woodworking
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From: Randy Wittchen <wittco@axionet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: QUESTION???????????????????????????????????
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:12:49 -0800
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ebender wrote:
> 
> does any one know where i can find any good woodworking software?????

Hi

To do what?????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Randy

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From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:35 EST 1997
Article: 193300 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem ...UPDATE...
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 16:44:15 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:16:08 GMT, aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
wrote:

> The tension
>mark on the bandsaws are just the starting point, if the blade is
>still wandering after all the guides are set and the bearings are set
>you need to increase the blade tension. Don't be afraid of hurting
>your bandsaw it can take a reasonable increase in tension over the
>suggested mark. 
>
>If the tension knob, handle or whatever gets hard to turn by hand use
>whatever is handy to give it that extra twist, even God forbid....a
>pipe wrench. 
>
>The blade tension that cuts just fine on 2 inch thick stuff might not
>be enough when you raise the guides to resaw taller stuff. If your
>bandsaw resaws just fine with the amount of tension you have on it
>now, put that pipe wrench down.

Al, experienced bandsaw users might know to chuckle at your advice in
a previous post that "more tension is better" and in this post to
"give it that extra twist" with a pipe wrench, but many users might
not.  Your qualification of your  advice with the admonition to do
this "within reason" and to leaves the reader with no objective
parameters, and the advice really becomes useless, if not dangerous.
Even on a quality light-commercial-duty saw like the Delta 14",
serious damage to the bandsaw wheel axles can occur if even a 1/4"
blade is significantly overtensioned.   A good-quality conventional
1/4" blade can take something like 30,000 psi before breaking, way
more tension than a homeshop bandsaw is designed to handle.  A 1/2"
blade can take far more tension still.  Overtensioning is a
prescription for equipment failure. Ten years ago, Fine Woodworking
published an article on bandsaw blade tensioning by a then-associate
editor.  For a 14" two-wheeled bandsaw like the Delta with a 6" riser
block, he recommended tuning both bimetal and carbon steel 1/4" blades
to the musical note "G" for serious resawing and to "E" as adequate
for general all-around.   This corresponds to about 27,500 psi and
15,000 psi, respectively.  (The 1/4" setting on the little scale that
comes with the  Delta saw reportedly produces between 2,500 and 12,000
psi, depending on how new the spring is).  Many readers tried
super-tensioning in the G range and reported that they'd never gotten
such great cuts with their saws.  Then axles started shearing off.
Delta and others began reporting a dramatic increase in axle and
bearing failures due to excessive tension.  For awhile they replaced
the axles just as a matter of customer relations.  While I'm not
certain of it, I believe the author departed the FWW staff shortly
thereafter in part as a result of the controversy.  To connect this up
to your posts, tension in the 25,000 psi range with a 1/4" blade is
easily achieved on a Delta or Delta-clone 14" bandsaw without a
pipewrench.  This is way beyond the design limitations.  I don't know
what kind of bandsaw you have, but if you have trouble getting enough
tension without a pipe wrench something sounds seriously wrong.  Also,
you might want to try one of the "low tension" silicon steel blades
manufactured by Suffolk Machinery Corp in Patchogue, New York.
800-234-7297 for a catalogue.  PS Machines (I think others) sells the
same blades in blister packs for alot more money than factory direct.
These blades claim to produce better cuts at lower tension than
conventional blades.  dcr  


From Redfield@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:36 EST 1997
Article: 193301 of rec.woodworking
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From: Redfield <Redfield@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Outfeed Table for Delta Contractor II TS
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:47:28 -0800
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I purchased several lengths of light weight roller conveyor track at a
used industrial equipment supplier for $20.00 for 10 feet. These are 8"
x 1" rollers set into a light weight aluminum or steel track. They come
in various lengths and can easily be cut to length. I fabricated an
attachment to grip the back angle piece of my Biesmeyer fence and rest
the other end on a fold up saw horse when in use. They are easily set up
and removed as neccessary. I also use the same setup for an infeed table
extension. Eventualy, time permitting, I am going to build a fold down
extension back table using the rollers attached so that they can slide
side to side to catch the cutoff pieces where neccessary.


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:36 EST 1997
Article: 193302 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell tilting arbor table saw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 20:58:42 GMT
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In article <01bc3c64$e968ffe0$84611fc4@Pwarrenm>, "Warren" <warrenm@iafrica.com> writes:

>The only part we are missing is the "arbor bracket".  We have inquired all
>over South Africa but nobody can help.  Could someone please put us in
>contact with a powertool agent /store that could possibly help us in
>obtaining the item we require?  Any leads would be appreciated!
>Thanks in anticipation!
>
>

Last fall Frank Kozerski posted about a discussion with Woodcraft HTTP://WWW.WOODCRAFT.COM with respect to parts support.  I'd recommend starting there.  Hope this helps.


From Redfield@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:37 EST 1997
Article: 193303 of rec.woodworking
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From: Redfield <Redfield@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:54:18 -0800
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The price on this stuff must have really gone up in the last 5 years. I
bought out a retired woodworkers garage several years ago and the  wood
included several pieces of snakewood at least as large as what you
described and I paid less for the whole lot (bottomed out the suspension
on my toyota 4WD pickup) than what is quoted for that one piece.
Occasionally I see the stuff for sale at a per lb. price of about 20.00


From dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu Wed Apr  2 12:05:38 EST 1997
Article: 193304 of rec.woodworking
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From: dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 21:06:47 GMT
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Bennett Leeds <bennett@adobe.com> wrote:

>Doug Dawson writes

>>    What could go wrong with a dial indicator?, I'm wondering.  Such a
>>    simple device, particularly for measuring in the small-thou range.
>>    What conceivably could the US-made units give you that we don't get
>>    with the Chinese stuff?  For woodworking and machine setup, it
>>    didn't add up...

>I'm no expert on this, but I can think of two things off the top of my
>head:

>1) Accuracy. [ tamp ]

>2) Indicators will wear, [ tamp ]

   When I got my dial indicator, it was at a local machinist supply
   shop.  I've never totally trusted all the Chinese machinery and
   so forth, and was quite prepared to purchase one of the Starrett
   units for that reason alone.  Alas, when I expressed my concerns
   at some length in a discussion with the machinist/sales people,
   about the exact things you refer to above, the general reaction
   I got was that I had to be nuts.  Allegedly, they rarely sell
   any of the premium domestic units because "the machinist community
   in Austin seems to be quite pleased with the value afforded by
   the Chinese unit" that I bought.  Take it for what you will.  I
   _still_ wish I'd gotten the Starrett, but I've had no problems
   with the unit I ended up with.  

   This might not apply to the ultra-cheap units you can get, though.
   I'm sure there's some real crap floating around.

   Probably rec.crafts.metalworking would be the best place to go
   for further information, or the archive of it.

   Doug Dawson
   dawson@physics.utexas.edu  



From bcompton@news.megalink.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:39 EST 1997
Article: 193305 of rec.woodworking
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From: "bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Eastern White Cedar
Date: 29 Mar 1997 17:23:19 GMT
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I trying to find wood flooring for a small porch.  My question is, can
eastern white cedar be used for this purpose?  I don't know a think about
this wood but it is fairly common in my area.

Bill Compton
bcompton@megalink.net



From mvfco@kellnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:40 EST 1997
Article: 193306 of rec.woodworking
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From: mvfco@kellnet.com (Marge Van Fossen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:22:22 GMT
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Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com> wrote:

>SJ14280 wrote:
>> 
>> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster?  What
>> are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
>> keyword for these cars?  Please help!



If your track is like the one my son's raced on - an initial hill then
a level portion to the finish - put as much weight in the rear as you
can.  The theory is that potential energy (mass times hieght) gets
converted into kinetic energy (velocity^2 time mass).  The car with
the wieght in the rear will run the same speed going down the hill
part of the track but when it hits the level part will pull ahead due
to the little extra potential energy.  Polished axles and graphite
lube help also.

Good luck,
Jim



From dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu Wed Apr  2 12:05:41 EST 1997
Article: 193307 of rec.woodworking
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From: dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bandsaw joinery?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 21:23:40 GMT
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<cdub@erols.com> wrote:

>Dovetail sawing with consistent angles across a panel looks tricky. Maybe
>extending the layout lines for easier sighting would make it easier?

   I've cut some dovetails with the bandsaw in the past.  It's one
   way of doing it.  My main complaint about it is that the result
   is too uniform for my tastes, re. the angles etc..  ( Of course
   this is done with a table that tilts in both directions. )
   If you really, _really_ want to cut dovetails by machine, this may
   be the most respectable way of doing it, maybe the easiest and
   closest to hand methods - heck, it's just a motorized frame saw.
   The principal technical liability of it, is that the width of the
   panel you're dovetailing is just too narrow for alot of work
    - generally less than 14" on the 14" Delta unit.  Unless you
   totally marked out everything on both sides of the boards, which
   again gets you into troubles of excessive uniformity.  It's just
   too mechanical for fine work, and you have to contort yourself
   to get it otherwise. ;^)

   FWIW, the kerf is too wide, as well.  Kind of limiting.

   Doug Dawson
   dawson@physics.utexas.edu



From jscolson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:05:42 EST 1997
Article: 193308 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Date: 29 Mar 1997 21:32:19 GMT
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The DeWalt has a small metal obstruction in the dust port that is probably
meant to keep fingers from going into the blade.  It can be removed, and
the port works better if it is.

My DeWalt came with a dust bag, but it fills fast.  The outlet can also be
connected to a dust vac.

Joe Colson

F and ML Butzi <butzi@wserv.com> wrote in article
<01bc395a$cc4efde0$15bc69ce@default>...
> 
> 
> Mark Young <marky@up.net> wrote in article <33373CF8.12E8@up.net>...
> > I noticed the Ryobi AND the DeWalt have small dust/chip ports with
> > obstructed paths; my Ryobi clogs consistently here, and I would think
> > the DeWalt would also, though Ryyobi comes with a collection bag,
> > whereas the DeWalt doesn't (to my knowledge). 
> > 
> > Anyone else have these gripes? I did notice since my last post about
the
> > angular adjustment of fences that the Ryobi seems to be the only one on
> > the market that allows downward angular adjustment (down to 45 degrees)
> > as well as upward... e.g. 135 degrees of motion); I think DeWalt only
> > goes from 90 (fence pointing straight out) to 0 (90 degrees range of
> > setting positions).
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Mark Young				(newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
> > acoustic@up.net
> > http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972
> > 
> 
> 
> 	My DeWalt has a collection bag.  My only gripe is that it fills quickly,
> but that's because it's small.  No problems with obstructions.
> 
> 		---Fred
> 


From wasfy@pantheon.yale.edu Wed Apr  2 12:05:43 EST 1997
Article: 193309 of rec.woodworking
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From: wasfy@pantheon.yale.edu (Michael W Ibrahim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Touching up Streaking?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 21:18:47 GMT
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Hello again,

I had a piece made of Walnut (part wood, part veneer) which I had color
matched to an older piece which had really lightened to a rich orange/
orange-brown.  

The finisher lightened the newer piece with bleach, then colored it
with some orange schelack (sp?) and then put a finishing coat of
laquer.  He did a pretty good job of matching the color...but I think
he made some obvious finishing goof ups.

Around some of the rounded corners he had sanded right through some
of the color...leaving long light streaks---luckily most of them are
with the grain so they aren't incredibly unsightly. But, near the edges
of the piece there is often a light line which goes against the
grain.  It looks to me like the bleach flowed along the grain and
collected at the edges...tending to lighten that area more.  The net
effect is that instead of having a nice clean edge it appears like the
edge is very jagged as if it has been worn and beat up (it hasn't).  Of
course these blemishes are now underneath the coat of protective
laquer.

When I asked the finisher about these problems, he agreed that he
probably sanded through the color on the corners but thought that
the lines near the edges may have been due to the glue used to apply 
the veneer---I don't know if I agree with this since the same problem
occurred on some of the hardwood pieces.

Anyways, I asked him to come out and touch up some of the streaking.  He
showed up with a touch up marker and made it look slightly better.  But
he didn't do much saying: (1) He would probably just turn the light lines
into dark lines and that it wouldn't look better (2) In about 6 months
as the piece ages/lightens these blemishes would disappear.  He did
suggest though that if I wanted to try I could pick up my own touch up
markers.

I have experimented with Minwax and Staples touch up markers---but
apparently this is just some type of stain which really doesn't take
with the Laquer protective coat.

So I'm now seeking suggestions.  I find the blemishes rather 
unsightly and unatural looking (ofcourse the owner is always the most
critical)...so I want them to go away.  Given that the finisher made what
I consider some obvious goof ups I don't know if I trust his advice.  

Will these white streaks disappear as the walnut lightens?  Or will they
always be a few shades lighter?  The piece is not really exposed to
a lot of sunlight so is 6 months a reasonable estimate for this to 
happen or are we talking several years?

If aging won't get rid of the streaks within a reasonable time are touch
up markers a good idea?  Is there any particular kind which can be applied
over a laquer?

Any other options or suggestions?  Maybe I should higher a different
finisher to see what he can do.

Thanks---I'll post a summary of e-mail replies.

Michael Ibrahim
wasfy@minerva.cis.yale.edu



From jsurpre53@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:44 EST 1997
Article: 193310 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsurpre53@aol.com (JSurpre53)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help in Electronics
Date: 29 Mar 1997 22:10:54 GMT
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I built a circuit from Fine Woodworking to turn on the vacuum any time i
turned on a machine. It worked beautifully. I then made one for a friend
of mine and it would not work. In troubleshooting his I accidently blew
mine up. and now have none that work. After trying 5 more times (from
scratch) to make one that works I'm at my wits end. The circuit is ten
years old so there must be an easier way to build this circuit but I'm not
an Elect. Engineer. 
Anyone out there that can help me????
Thank you

John
JSurpre53@aol.com


From woodyworkr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:45 EST 1997
Article: 193311 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodyworkr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need drill press advice
Date: 29 Mar 1997 22:32:46 GMT
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In article <19970328223401.RAA22361@ladder01.news.aol.com>, awrobinson@aol.com (Awrobinson) writes:

>As an aspiring wood worker, I'm in the market for 
>a drill press. My budget is about $200. Based on posts 
>I've seen on this group, the three brands I've been 
>considering are Delta, Jet, and Grizzley. 
>
>

Donning Nomex:
Do not rule out Sears on this one.  I chose their 15" over the Delta.  For about the same price my has a built in work light and in my opinion more value.  Spend the extra $$ and get a floor mount. 
You can still put it over a bench and the floor space it takes up is about that of a magizine.

Bernie Swanson  
Bernie Swanson
Bellevue, WA




From woodyworkr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:45 EST 1997
Article: 193312 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodyworkr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: 29 Mar 1997 22:32:52 GMT
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In article <333D2478.74D0@icenter.net>, beergut <beergut@icenter.net> writes:

>I have to agree with you there. Upon first look, while they were still
>in the baggie, they look like something you could buy at a dollar store.
>But upon closer examination, these little guys are machined to such a
>small point that taking out a sliver is really quite easy. Had to try
>them out on my 6 yr. old daughter the other day. It was a lot easier on
>her then the safety pin. The distributer is in Canada, but the things
>are made in the US. I now have to order another pair for the first aid
>kit for camping, as these stay in my shop. I also have no affiliation
>with the tweezer geezer and I commend him for shipping out these things
>at no charge. 
>
>

I do not have the tweezers but I will share what works for me on slivers.  I use a large toenail clipper with straight not curved blades.  These things can painlessly remove a cell layer of skin at a
time until the offending lumber is exposed. and can be easily removed.

Bernie Swanson
Bernie Swanson
Bellevue, WA




From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:46 EST 1997
Article: 193313 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:42:36 GMT
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On 28 Mar 1997 18:41:07 GMT, dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R.
Vogel) wrote:

>
>Do you recall how much it was a Walden?  You imply it was more by your
>comment about paying more rather tahn buying mailorder.

Don't know about Walden, but I saw it several months ago at either
Barnes & Noble or B.J. Dalton for about the same price as the mail
order offer, but Rodale charges you shipping and handling of about $5
so it's actually cheaper at the bookstore.  I have the book and it's
top notch.  Hylton has a clear and occasionally humorous writing
style. dcr 


From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:47 EST 1997
Article: 193314 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:50:07 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:21:22 GMT, flyguy@usanet.com wrote:


>Please don't take this wrong, but are you turning the nut in the right
>direction? Never could figure out why, but some saws have right hand
>and some have left hand threads. Nearly broke one trying to turn the
>arbor nut in the wrong direction. 

I'll never forget the day I removed the big arbor nut from my  John
Deere 24" $500 chain saw by grabbing a pneumatic impact wrench.  Spun
it in the wrong direction.  A $120 mistake by the time the arbor was
replaced. dcr



From jsing352@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:48 EST 1997
Article: 193315 of rec.woodworking
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From: jsing352@aol.com (JSing352)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bending plywood for furniture?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 22:46:36 GMT
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Does anyone know of a good source of information on bending processes , or
personal experience tips wich may be useful?


From opencon@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:49 EST 1997
Article: 193316 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: Rockwell 14" Bandsaw
Date: 29 Mar 1997 15:48:01 -0700
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Have a Rockwell 14" Bandsaw with enclosed base. EXCELLENT condition. I tore it 
all down cleaned it all up and gave the bandsaw a coat of factory color paint. 
All the bearings were tight and in good shape. The date of 10/78 is cast into 
the machine.

$525

If interested drop me e-mail.

Marty
Mesa, AZ


From mathsgr8@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:50 EST 1997
Article: 193317 of rec.woodworking
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From: mathsgr8@aol.com (Mathsgr8)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Vertical Raised Panel Bits
Date: 29 Mar 1997 22:53:46 GMT
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What a timely question.  Just this past week, I cut 2 panels with a new
CMT vertical panel raising bit using my PC690 on a table.  I make a tall
fence for support, made a featherboard jig that had 2 featherboards, one
at the bottom and another about 6 inches up so that the panel was pressed
against the tall fence.  I cut the panels in 3 passes.

Bottom line:  the 690 did just fine.  I had considered buying a large
router, but I just don't see the need right now.

Chuck Clark
mathsgr8@aol.com


From kate@nortel.c Wed Apr  2 12:05:51 EST 1997
Article: 193318 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kate <kate@nortel.c>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Refinishing Teak
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:22:22 -0400
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I am re-finishing a teak dining room table. When I started,
I noticed that the areas of wood that had been in constant contact
with the air had turned a brown colour as compared with the 
redish hue of the sheltered wood (the leaves).  I had hoped that this
was just the finish oxidizing, but now that I have stripped off the 
finish, the brown colour remains.  It has been suggested to me
that the colour is a result of the oil in the wood itself oxidizing,
in which case no amount of stripping will get rid of it.

The center of the table is a veneer, and I am loathe to take a 
sander to it.  Are there any techniques that anyone can suggest
that can return the wood to its original colour?  I am concerned 
that if I try some bleach, I will simply lighten the brown and it
still won't match the red of the leaves.

Thanks 

Katherine Anderson
my real email: katherin@nortel.ca


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:52 EST 1997
Article: 193319 of rec.woodworking
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eleanor bender wrote:
>
> Hello Alan Bender we got your message and as lucky as you were, we were
> about throw out some tool when we got your message.  We are willing to
> send you some tools if you tell us your address.  Thank you for your
> support.
thanks alot for what you are doing my address is:
91 Crescent Hollow Dr.
Sewell, New Jersey, 08080
if you have any prolbems or questions give write me
please write back when you have sent the tools
once again thanks alot


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:05:53 EST 1997
Article: 193320 of rec.woodworking
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From: BigJim <bigjim@ALASKA.NET>
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Lines: 20
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193320

At 07:44 AM 3/28/97 GMT, you wrote:
>I learned on a unisaw, but it wasnt my shop. Came time to build my own
>shop, I settled for a BT3000. Im in business, Im building pretty much
>what I want to with it. Its not a bad saw at all, but it sure isnt a
>unisaw. Someone says here youll eventually want one (the unisaw)
>and that is true. Now, if youre seeing used unisaws going for $500,tell
>me where and Ill buy it if you dont. From what Ive seen, unisaws hold
>value real well, and I havent seen one even close to $500.
>The only real shortcomings on the ryobi are power and tablesize and no
>miter gauge slots. Otherwise its fine, and it will do the job as is
>anyways.
>

If you haven't tried a thin-kerf Forrest Woodworker II on your BT3000,
you're missing the second best experience in life! :):)  they're expensive,
but let you cut maple like butter.. and the cut is soooooo smooth!

Jim aka BigJim

<A BT3000 owner who also drools over unisaws!, and was ready to dump his
Ryobi til he found the difference this blade made!>


From WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:05:54 EST 1997
Article: 193321 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bradley A. Stolzer" <WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Biesmeyer blade guard
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In a message dated 97-03-27 03:19:27 EST, RSE@postoffice.worldnet.att.net
(Randy) writes:

<< I'm looking for a drawing or a photo of a Biesmeyer blade quard for a
 table saw that allows you to keep the guard in place for all types of
 cuts....dado cuts in particular. The guard is attached to an arm, not
 the saw table, and extends down and over the blade. Just a simple photo
 or drawing on a web page would be fine. Anyone seen it on the web? An
 e-mail response would be appreciated.

 Thanks
 Randy
  >>
Randy, there's a pretty good picture of one in the Tool Crib of the North
catalogue.  Sorry I don't have a scanner or I'd send it out, but perhaps
someone else does?  You can order their catalogue @ 800-358-3096.  I have no
connection with them but have been satisfied with their service in the past.
 They sell the guard for $389.  I've used one, and I was really impressed.


From KenScotInc@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:05:54 EST 1997
Article: 193322 of rec.woodworking
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From: Scott Duncan <KenScotInc@AOL.COM>
Subject: ARTISTS/SCULPTORS
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      Ken Scott Incorporated is conducting a nation wide search for artists
who may want their work represented in the summer 1997 edition of the Ken
Scott catalog.  This catalog will encompass a wide array of art.  If you have
a piece you feel is worthy of submittal, please reply for further details.


From WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:05:55 EST 1997
Article: 193323 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bradley A. Stolzer" <WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM>
Subject: Woodsmith PANEL SAW HDW KIT; Looks Good for Only $134
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193323

Has anyone built and/or used one of these.  Looks like a really nice, safe,
convenient, accurate way to cut plywood panels.  It stands up on wheels and
doesn't take up much room.  And it's only $135  (plus the price of the wood
and a circular saw).

Any opinions?

Brad
Portsmouth, NH


From adrien@STARGAZER.NET Wed Apr  2 12:05:56 EST 1997
Article: 193324 of rec.woodworking
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From: Adrien Delbasty <adrien@STARGAZER.NET>
Subject: Finishing cypress
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193324

Help, Please
My son built two cypress end tables and asked me to finish them for him.
He wanted me to use sanding sealer, then satin polyurethane varnish.  I
read in one article not to use sanding sealer, but rather thin varnish 50%
for the first coat, then  gloss varnish for build coats, then satin for
finish coat.  I used the thinned coat of varnish, put tables aside to dry,
and now two days later they still have not dried.  My son said that is why
he wanted me to use the sanding sealer.  He said varnished cypress is very
hard to dry without sanding sealer.
HELP, what do I do now, any comments????
Thanks
PS Live in south Louisiana where humidity is higher than temperature!!!!!


From n4si@POBOX.COM Wed Apr  2 12:05:58 EST 1997
Article: 193325 of rec.woodworking
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From: "L. R. Peterson" <n4si@POBOX.COM>
Subject: Re: polyurethane over shellac ???
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193325

> I know that sounds real bad, but it's my floor, not my furniture...
> Now .. can anyone please tell me if I can shoot polyurethane on
> top of this?...

Feldman and L'Erario (those goofy furniture repair guys) do it all
the time...and on furniture. In fact they discuss the conventional
"wisdom" that says don't, and debunk it. They say it's a varnish
maker's conspiracy to make people think varnish is all they need.

In any event, what are you worried about? You should be able to
duplicate your process on some scrap and see if anything
bloodcurdling happens. When it doesn't, shoot the floor, and then
have your wife take you out to dinner.

L. Rodney Peterson     Master Termite and Wood Butcher


From thudchkr@minot.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:58 EST 1997
Article: 193326 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thudchkr" <thudchkr@minot.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cedar Finished? Please Help????????????????
Date: 29 Mar 1997 23:01:06 GMT
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Finish the box inside and out only if you aren't going to use the cedar's
aromatic properties.  If you, however, want it to repel bugs and smell good
you need to leave at least one surface unfinished.  Most people will finish
the outside and leave the inside alone.  This way the cedar protects the
contents from bugs and its characteristic odor can be experienced each time
you open it.






From thudchkr@minot.com Wed Apr  2 12:05:59 EST 1997
Article: 193327 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thudchkr" <thudchkr@minot.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WATCO Danish Oil ???
Date: 29 Mar 1997 23:19:07 GMT
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I use a lot of Deft Danish Oil finish.  I have found it to be much less
likely to bleed back when I use it on open grained woods like oak and even
walnut.  When I used Watco I usually had to go back several times to wipe
off the finish that bled back out of the pores of the wood, but rarely if
ever do it when using Deft.

William Quiles <wquiles@texas.net> wrote in article
<5gq8r9$t3g@news3.texas.net>...
> 
> I am not sure, but is WATCO out of business?.  If it is, what
> "replacement" exists for their Danish Oil?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> BYE, William
> wquiles@texas.net
> 
> 
> 


From poleske@pop.dn.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:00 EST 1997
Article: 193328 of rec.woodworking
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From: poleske@pop.dn.net (Speeben-p+t-e-b+v=)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making Pine Look Old
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:36:46 -0400
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In article <19970329195200.OAA26933@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21) wrote:
This might sound silly but, mix up some mud, yes, dirt you find in the
backyard into a mud and rub it in, let it dry, stiff nylon brush it off,
and do it again and again untill you can get it to the right degree of
patina that you might be looking for. be careful about the amount of water
you use remember you are just making mud, not a stain.
you might also look for some milk paints they are available usally in
small ads in the back of wood working zines.
€  I am into shaker and colonial furnature and keep trying to get the
€"real" old look of pine from new wood.  I have tried different stains and
€even barn siding (this comes the closest until you plane it) and I would
€love any ideas.

-- 
There's something to be said about having a head with corners.

By U.S. Code: Title 47 Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisment to such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual montary loss, or $500.00 or whichever is greater for each violation.


From poleske@pop.dn.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:01 EST 1997
Article: 193329 of rec.woodworking
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From: poleske@pop.dn.net (Speeben-p+t-e-b+v=)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: polyurethane over shellac ???
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:41:55 -0400
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In article <5hi0ol$11kc@newssvr01-int.news.prodigy.com>,
YXFX27A@prodigy.com (Jimmie Motto) wrote:
I don't know about flooring but I have done just that on furniture, poly
over shellac, I would advise that you do a thin coat of shellac, 3:1 or
even 4:1 then poly then shellac and build your finish.
€ I know that sounds real bad, but it's my floor, not my furniture. I just 
€milled all the bull nosing and  I'm trying to match a pre-finished 'Bruce 
€Flooring' stain. 3 or 4 stains,a little red dye and it's looking pretty 
€good...but it needs a little orange...guess what, that ol' 3# cut brings 
€it on home. Now .. can anyone please tell me if I can shoot polyurethane 
€on top of this?  I'm sure the shellac will not stand up to the abuse.  
€Please stop me if I'm about to make a horrible mistake as I'm down to the 
€last 3 or 4 hrs of this project and I'm getting that antsy feeling .......
€650 squ. ft. of maple...my knees look like dinner plates but my wife is 
€sooooo happy..
€  tia
€ Jim Motto
€ yxfx27a@prodigy.com

-- 
There's something to be said about having a head with corners.

By U.S. Code: Title 47 Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisment to such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual montary loss, or $500.00 or whichever is greater for each violation.


From garypopa@poboxes.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:02 EST 1997
Article: 193330 of rec.woodworking
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From: garypopa@poboxes.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:50:24 GMT
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I too have a 12" Dewalt compound chop saw and I tried to remove the
blade (for the first time) and could not.  I tried various lubricant
with no results.  I even read the manual!  Since I bought this saw
new, the blade has never been removed.  Maybe someone could give me
and Larry some hints.   Thanks.

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:55:57 EST, Larry Rondot
<RONDOT@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU> wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>I bought at an auction a 250mm DeWalt power miter box (Catalog number 7716)
>"Type 1".  It has a nice Delta thin kerf blade on it, but needs sharpening.
>
>Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
>after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade with pliers
>I can't get the nut loose.
>
>The center of the arbor seems like it might be a star driver.  Do I need a
>special adaptor/tool to hold the arbor in place to remove the blade?
>
>Thanks for any comments...
>
>Larry Rondot
>Rondot@VMB.IPFW.Indiana.Edu



From rkopf@isd.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:03 EST 1997
Article: 193331 of rec.woodworking
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:54:31 -0500
From: rkopf@isd.net (Bob Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based Urethanes (previously Diamond Finish, etc.)
Message-ID: <rkopf-ya02408000R2903971854310001@isd.net>
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In order to get the color I was after, I used alcohol based analine dyes
and pure pigments to get "just the right" color on our birdseye maple
floor.  I was origionally planning on just covering this with water based
poly but found that the the direct application of this material (brand
didn't seem to matter) turned my floor GREEN !!  Our final soulution also
added that richness I was looking for.  Before doing the poly, I sealed the
floor with a 12lb cut of amber shilac.  Since my "stain" was alcohol based,
I was able to stain and seal in one afternoon.  The next morning I was able
to put the first coat of poly down (after a quick rub with 400 grit
sandpaper-NOT STEEL WOOL when using WATER based poly--you don't want rust.)

I do think after seeing how the floor is wearing that the water based polys
need one more coat then their solvent based relatives.   My impression is
that the finish isn't quite as hard.  But, I have always waxed on top of
poly before and I didn't have time to do that this job.


In article <01bc3a4f$6f4bd780$a41f02c7@jmr.btw.com>, "Jim Rosenau"
<jmr@btw.com> wrote:

>I saw a note on Varathane's Diamond Finish and can add this:
>
>We tested it, and several similar products, on fir, oak and pine, both with
>and without stains. None added the richness we have come to like on top of
>bare wood. So we are staining first. You can use oil-based polyurethane as
>the first coat to get the old amber-hue. 
>
>We tried Zar, Zarathane and Sikkens' water-based urethanes and settled on
>Zar because it brushes on thicker, yeilding better a build. With
>Varathane's product, I had to put it on VERY thin to keep it from running
>and always needed three coats.
>
>
>> >> >
>> >> >The only downside is that it doesn't add the rich colour to
>light-coloured
>> >> >woods. But, that can be fixed by staining first. But, this can also
>be a
>> >> >--
>> 
>>
-- 






From bms@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:04 EST 1997
Article: 193332 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bradley M. Small" <bms@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Waterglass (Sodium Si.) for woods fireproofing ?
Date: 29 Mar 1997 23:15:41 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Hmmm, 
Waterglass solution brings back lots of memories. Many a trick was
suggested in my chemistry sets as a kid for uses of this solution. One of
which was treating the outside of a ciggarette to keep it from smoldering
when not being actively smoked (interesting suggestion in a kids chemistry
set eh?) 

It is also used to waterproof concrete floors I believe. If you do get
some, be sure not to get it on anything that you ever want to use again
(clothing etc.) 

If you get the wood permiated with it, I would assume it will not burn,
though under appropriate tgemperatures the wood will still carbonize and
stuff, but it should bnot flare to a flame.

YMMV, and BTW I am not a physicist or a chemist... 

Bradley

Gaetan Mailloux <ba221@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote in article
<5hf9f0$cg0@freenet-news.carleton.ca>...
> 
> 
> I read in a book that we can use waterglass (Sodium or Potasium Silicate)
> for woods fireproofing.
> 
> Anyone know about it, or did try it ?
> 
> Any hints ?
> 
> Thank
> 
> Gaetan
> 


From poleske@pop.dn.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:05 EST 1997
Article: 193333 of rec.woodworking
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From: poleske@pop.dn.net (Speeben-p+t-e-b+v=)
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Subject: Re: Baltimore Woodworkers, question.
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In article <333b1780.874456410@news.smart.net>, wood at smart.net wrote:
 
€>>> Are there any good places SOUTH of Washington DC?  I am in S. MD and find
€>>> it hard to get any nice wood/tools in my area.
€>>> 
€>>> David
€>>
Try Colonial hardwoods, very nice people excellent selection, and
reasonable prices,
7953 cameron brown court
springfield, va. 22153
703-451-9217
with all these pennies (2˘'s) you could get rich!

-- 
There's something to be said about having a head with corners.

By U.S. Code: Title 47 Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisment to such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual montary loss, or $500.00 or whichever is greater for each violation.


From martingraw@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:05 EST 1997
Article: 193335 of rec.woodworking
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From: martingraw@aol.com (MartinGraw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need plans for a folding sling rocker
Date: 30 Mar 1997 00:45:50 GMT
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While on vacation in Florida, came across a sling styled folding chair
that has a rocking action.  Very simple design -- hoping someone can refer
me to a source for plans.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Marty


From dickmac@ Wed Apr  2 12:06:06 EST 1997
Article: 193336 of rec.woodworking
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From: dickmac@fastservice.com (Richard MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:51:05 -0700
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I have had no problems with my Ryobi connected to a vacuum. A small
hose/adapter works fine with a little duct tape to hold it in the hole and
with that combination on hard maple I've had no clogs. I only used it for a
few minutes without the vacuum so I don't know if it would have clogged
without it. 


On 29 Mar 1997 21:32:19 GMT, "Joe Colson" <jscolson@worldnet.att.net> may
have written:

>The DeWalt has a small metal obstruction in the dust port that is probably
>meant to keep fingers from going into the blade.  It can be removed, and
>the port works better if it is.
>
>My DeWalt came with a dust bag, but it fills fast.  The outlet can also be
>connected to a dust vac.
>
>Joe Colson
>
>F and ML Butzi <butzi@wserv.com> wrote in article
><01bc395a$cc4efde0$15bc69ce@default>...
>> 
>> 
>> Mark Young <marky@up.net> wrote in article <33373CF8.12E8@up.net>...
>> > I noticed the Ryobi AND the DeWalt have small dust/chip ports with
>> > obstructed paths; my Ryobi clogs consistently here, and I would think
>> > the DeWalt would also, though Ryyobi comes with a collection bag,
>> > whereas the DeWalt doesn't (to my knowledge). 
>> > 
>> > Anyone else have these gripes? I did notice since my last post about
>the
>> > angular adjustment of fences that the Ryobi seems to be the only one on
>> > the market that allows downward angular adjustment (down to 45 degrees)
>> > as well as upward... e.g. 135 degrees of motion); I think DeWalt only
>> > goes from 90 (fence pointing straight out) to 0 (90 degrees range of
>> > setting positions).
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Mark Young				(newsgroup respondents: please email me directly)
>> > acoustic@up.net
>> > http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/1972
>> > 
>> 
>> 
>> 	My DeWalt has a collection bag.  My only gripe is that it fills quickly,
>> but that's because it's small.  No problems with obstructions.
>> 
>> 		---Fred
>> 

Dick MacDonald
dickmac@(delete this to reply)fastservice.com
The extra info is included to foil the automated collection 'bots.



From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:07 EST 1997
Article: 193337 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: ALIGN-IT or TS-ALIGNER? >Objective< opinions sought.
Date: 30 Mar 1997 01:52:54 GMT
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ALIGN-IT (I think that might be the wrong spelling, I don't have the ad in
front of me) is $139 and can check your table saw, jointer and other tools
within a .001". Has anyone compared TS-ALIGNER to ALIGN-IT?  Also, it's
curious that either one could be patented; I have the SPI catalog and it's
filled with dial guages and hold-downs etc. It seems that all one has to
do is just put the parts together and you have your own "TS-ALIGNER" or
"ALIGN-IT" to the precision and accuracy that you're willing to pay for
(some of the SPI dial guages are frightfully expensive, but they're not
made in China and meet Federal specs; perhaps not necessary for
woodworking).

Am I missing something obvious here? 

Jane



From majisman@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:08 EST 1997
Article: 193338 of rec.woodworking
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From: majisman@aol.com (MAJISMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: spheres
Date: 30 Mar 1997 02:11:39 GMT
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I appreciate the responses... I'll let you know the results in a few weeks.


From cdub@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:09 EST 1997
Article: 193339 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:11:03 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Re: bandsaw joinery?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <5hk18s$4i5$1@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>,
  dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson) wrote:
>
> <cdub@erols.com> wrote:
>
> >Dovetail sawing with consistent angles across a panel looks tricky. Maybe
> >extending the layout lines for easier sighting would make it easier?
>
>    I've cut some dovetails with the bandsaw in the past.  It's one
>    way of doing it.  My main complaint about it is that the result
>    is too uniform for my tastes, re. the angles etc..  ( Of course

Krenov's later pieces use slightly curved dovetails.  Effect is very
nice, a bit sharper, more deliberate, in appearance.  A bandsaw looks to
be a natural for the aproach.  In other words, if the joints look too
"uniform", slack off a bit.  You're in control, you always have the final
say; router jigs don't give you that option unless you want to do some
customizing, perhaps to the point of making your own templates and
regrinding cutters.

>    this is done with a table that tilts in both directions. )
>    If you really, _really_ want to cut dovetails by machine, this may
>    be the most respectable way of doing it, maybe the easiest and
>    closest to hand methods - heck, it's just a motorized frame saw.

Layout technique stays the same.  Scribed baseline, penciled tails. 
Sawing becomes easier, no risk of overcutting on the reverse side of the
lumber, no blade going out of skew from wear or unseen damage.	Cutting
is done with a blade under tension, just like with good Japanese
carpenter's saws.  Joint sockets are still done with a chisel dropped
into the scribe line.

>    The principal technical liability of it, is that the width of the
>    panel you're dovetailing is just too narrow for alot of work
>     - generally less than 14" on the 14" Delta unit.  Unless you

Still, that's a 28" panel.

>    totally marked out everything on both sides of the boards, which
>    again gets you into troubles of excessive uniformity.  It's just
>    too mechanical for fine work, and you have to contort yourself
>    to get it otherwise. ;^)

Would a scroll saw work for finer work?  (Maybe larger work, too. 
Hmmm....)


>
>    FWIW, the kerf is too wide, as well.  Kind of limiting.

Hate to say it, but I haven't found a saw with a kerf thin enough for
joinery. Cut to the side of the line, as always.

>    Doug Dawson
>    dawson@physics.utexas.edu

PS: Did some finger joints on a table saw last night.  Used an offcut
box, no jig, just eyeballed the kerf on the bottom of the box with the
layout line on the board and pushed it through the blade.  Worked well
enough that the joint slid together _backwards_ as _well_ as forwards. 
Those expensive Incra foil rules with the slots actually work!

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mfedock1@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:10 EST 1997
Article: 193340 of rec.woodworking
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From: Michael Fedock <mfedock1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TUNE YOUR MITRE GAUGE
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:27:16 -0800
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The bar of your mitre gauge must fit tightly into the groove of your 
table saw.  If you try to move the gauge from side to side and you feel 
it shift, the fit is too loose, LeTrec.  Take the gauge out and peen the 
edges of the bar up and down both edges, from the top.  Try the fit 
again.  Repeat until you have a nice, snug fit.  If tou peen too much, 
just thin the edge down by draw filing the edges.


From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:11 EST 1997
Article: 193341 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing Teak
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:53:16 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193341

Kate <katherin@nortel.ca> wrote:
> 
> I am re-finishing a teak dining room table. When I started,
> I noticed that the areas of wood that had been in constant contact
> with the air had turned a brown colour as compared with the
> redish hue of the sheltered wood (the leaves).  I had hoped that this
> was just the finish oxidizing, but now that I have stripped off the
> finish, the brown colour remains.  It has been suggested to me
> that the colour is a result of the oil in the wood itself oxidizing,
> in which case no amount of stripping will get rid of it.
> 
> The center of the table is a veneer, and I am loathe to take a
> sander to it.  Are there any techniques that anyone can suggest
> that can return the wood to its original colour?  I am concerned
> that if I try some bleach, I will simply lighten the brown and it
> still won't match the red of the leaves.


You cannot get back to your original color of the wood. The better thing
to do is to try to equalize the color of the leaves to match the color
that the table has changed to. 

The table wandered to a brown color. With the artful use of NGR's, you
can alter the color of the table leaves to match the color base of the
table. NGR's are dye stains that do not obscure the figure or grain of
the wood. They also do not raise the grain of the wood the way that a
water soluable dye stain would. The best technique for applying these
stains with the greatest amount of control is to spray them.

If you have access to spray equiptment and you know how to spray, make
your own toners. Toners are finishes that have some color added to them
so that they shade the wood as you apply them. Toners can be pigmented,
dye or both. If they are pigmented, reduce them so that you build the
color slowly. If you apply too much of a pigmented color, you will muddy
the look of the grain (you will go from transparent to translucent to
opaque, so watch out).

I just took a set of Thomasville replacement doors shipped from the mfg.
They were too light and too orange. I mixed up a greenish brown toner to
kill the orange and to darken slightly. I sprayed with an overlapping
fan, and then did it again perpendicular to that so I built the color
slowly, evenly, and without patches.

If you do not have access to spray equiptment, you might try to lay down
a thinned coat of colorant called a glaze. There is technique involved
in this also so that you do not get brush strokes.

These are some of the approaches to equalizing a wood that has developed
a patina (charm!).
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
 Daniel


From butteri@polarnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:12 EST 1997
Article: 193342 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Mike and Rita Butteri <butteri@polarnet.com>
Subject: Help reconditioning Old Craftsman TS
Message-ID: <333D5056.1910@polarnet.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:24:41 +0000
Reply-To: butteri@polarnet.com
Organization: MFB Electronics
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In my quest to rebuild an old Craftsman Tablesaw,  I've found that the
lock on the horizontal
adjustment screw is messed up.  Anyone with knowledge of this, it would
be much appreciated.
Let me describe the Problem:  The locking mechanism on the tablesaw is
operated by turning a center knob on the adjusting wheel, which in turn
pushes a rod down the center of the threaded adjusting rod and from
there I'm lost.  There are two slots in the rod, where it pivots in the
arm that holds it up.  I figure the rod that goes down the center must
push some kind of metal or plasic pins out of the slots to grip the
sleeve, thus locking the whole thing in place (sorry if this is
confusing).  The question is, What do these pins, or whatever it is,
look like?  Boy would a manual be helpfull, but Sears can't get me one.
Thanks in advance for any hints. 

Mike Butter



From butteri@polarnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:13 EST 1997
Article: 193343 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Mike and Rita Butteri <butteri@polarnet.com>
Subject: Need manual: 30+yr.old Craftsman TS#103.22451
Message-ID: <333D4E87.2D3A@polarnet.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:16:58 +0000
Reply-To: butteri@polarnet.com
Organization: MFB Electronics
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I know this is a long shot, but if anyone out there might have a manual
they would be willing to copy and mail to me, I am looking for one for
my Craftsman 10" tablesaw     Model# 103.22451

I believe it is around a 1964 vintage, or so.

I would be happy to pay for postage and copying, and a little something
>from  Alaska for your time!

Thanks to everyone, Mike.      

<butteri@polarnet.com>



From toyboat@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:14 EST 1997
Article: 193344 of rec.woodworking
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From: toyboat@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ()
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hand planes
Date: 30 Mar 1997 02:53:16 GMT
Organization: Edmonton FreeNet, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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BAH (BAH@gowebway.com) wrote:
: I've been looking to pick up a Record 04 smoothing plane.  I've noticed
: that some of them out there have a brass colored knob on the front that
: keeps the blade secure while others have a sort of flip-lock thing that
: you pull open to release the blade.  Both seem to be about the same
: price and both seem to tbe the high end of the Record line.  What if any
: is the difference?  Should I care?

--I have a Record jack plane with the brass knob.  When I opened the box,
  I was kind of ticked off because it wasn't as pictured, nor traditional.

  It turned out that this was a Record cost-cutting production change.
  In practice, it turned out to work well and I actually prefer it.  The
  high-priced Lie-Neilson planes use this, as do cabinet-making planes.
  It's easier to adjust the blade with the brass-knob cap iron because
  you can set the pressure on the blade about half of maximum, then fine
  tune the skew and projection of it.  Afterwards, you simply fully
  tighten the brass knob to lock the setting.  The lever cap doesn't allow
  this.                

  Really, it's a matter of preference.  They both work well.


                   |\
                   | \
                   |  \   
                   |   \
                   |____\
            _______|__________      
            \                /      \o/
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     Shane <toyboat@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca>               
   
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~               
                   
               

       





                                                      
                                                     
                                                       
             
                      
                         
                                                                                                                                               
   
                   


From jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:14 EST 1997
Article: 193345 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwarsaw@fakeaddress.com (John K. Warsaw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit joiner dust ports too obstructed
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:59:55 GMT
Organization: The Netside Network
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A DeWalt factory rep told me the obstruction is there to keep people
>from  sticking their fingers up the chute and into the blade when the
motor is running.  He said they did this out of fear of litigation.  
--
PLEASE NOTE: My e-mail address has been disguised to defeat automated spam programs.  For my correct address, change  "fakeaddress" to "netside", but leave off the quotation marks.  Sorry for the inconvenience.


From djgood@cdsnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:15 EST 1997
Article: 193346 of rec.woodworking
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From: djgood@cdsnet.net (Dennis J. Gooding)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy a Grizzly bandsaw or will I be sorry
Date: 30 Mar 1997 03:15:50 GMT
Organization: CDS Internet
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In article <5hci78$nm7$1@news.mhv.net>, scubaman@mhv.net says...
>
>In message <19970324.190230.DRIEGLE@vunet.vinu.edu> - Daryle Riegle
><DRIEGLE@VUNET.VINU.EDU> writes:
>:>
>:>Should I believe that the 16 inch or 18 inch Grizzly bandsaw
>:>are the best saws on the market? What kind of problems can
>:>I expect? I could use some advice before spending lots of
>:>money.
>
>I have the 16" and am quite happy with it. etc
>

I missed the original post, but I can echo Rich's remarks.  I bought the 
Model 1073 last fall and now am very happy with it.  However, like Rich, I 
had to do quite a bit of tinkering before getting things right.  These 
included returning the table (it was bowed front-to-back).  To Grizzly's 
credit, they do not quibble about replacing problem parts, and provide quick 
response.



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:16 EST 1997
Article: 193347 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Touching up Streaking?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:25:56 -0500
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	wasfy@minerva.cis.yale.edu
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193347

Michael W Ibrahim <wasfy@minerva.cis.yale.edu> wrote:
> 
> I had a piece made of Walnut (part wood, part veneer) which I had color
> matched to an older piece which had really lightened to a rich orange/
> orange-brown.
> 
> The finisher lightened the newer piece with bleach, then colored it
> with some orange schelack (sp?) and then put a finishing coat of
> laquer.  He did a pretty good job of matching the color...but I think
> he made some obvious finishing goof ups.
> 
> Around some of the rounded corners he had sanded right through some
> of the color...leaving long light streaks---luckily most of them are
> with the grain so they aren't incredibly unsightly. But, near the edges
> of the piece there is often a light line which goes against the
> grain.  It looks to me like the bleach flowed along the grain and
> collected at the edges...tending to lighten that area more.  The net
> effect is that instead of having a nice clean edge it appears like the
> edge is very jagged as if it has been worn and beat up (it hasn't).  Of
> course these blemishes are now underneath the coat of protective
> laquer.
> 
> When I asked the finisher about these problems, he agreed that he
> probably sanded through the color on the corners but thought that
> the lines near the edges may have been due to the glue used to apply
> the veneer---I don't know if I agree with this since the same problem
> occurred on some of the hardwood pieces.
> 
> Anyways, I asked him to come out and touch up some of the streaking.  He
> showed up with a touch up marker and made it look slightly better.  But
> he didn't do much saying: (1) He would probably just turn the light lines
> into dark lines and that it wouldn't look better (2) In about 6 months
> as the piece ages/lightens these blemishes would disappear.  He did
> suggest though that if I wanted to try I could pick up my own touch up
> markers.
<snipped>
> Will these white streaks disappear as the walnut lightens?  Or will they
> always be a few shades lighter?  The piece is not really exposed to
> a lot of sunlight so is 6 months a reasonable estimate for this to
> happen or are we talking several years?
> 
> If aging won't get rid of the streaks within a reasonable time are touch
> up markers a good idea?  Is there any particular kind which can be applied
> over a laquer?
> 
> Any other options or suggestions?  Maybe I should higher a different
> finisher to see what he can do.

I am soory for the long quotation from you and the short answer. 

First, when you say "part wood, part veneer", I am sure that what you
meant was "part solid, part veneer, ALLwood". But that is a nitpicking
matter.

Second, for your finisher to commit the atrocity of sanding through the
color and then have the audacity to try to correct this barbarism with
touch up markers (moving professionals use these toys when they are done
playing with your furniture so they can make it difficult for you to
catch their damages) is just the sort of rank unprofessionalism that
gives our trade a black eye (and a bare edge).

Third, regarding the blotching of the bleach, whatever approach this
fellow used to finish your wood, that's his problem. It should not be
yours unless his final price that he charged you to do the work reflects
that outcome. If you feel that, given the sand-through's and the
blotching, you got what you paid for, then that is one issue. I get the
impression that these things bothered you enough to risk seeking a
second opinion at rec.woodworking (it is always risky to ask a question
here because you inspire the snide and imperious among us to reply with
our patronizing and condescending thoughts).

I think, rightly so that these unexpected maladies are annoying to you
and they have now become part of the history of your wood. Touch up
markers will not correct the defect. Airbrushing with colored lacquer
would do a better job, but you must have skills in that area. The same
would hold true if you were to take some lacquer, mix some colors in it,
reduce it's viscosity with MEK, and brush it on in LONG, THIN,  and
LIGHT brush strokes, imparting color to the "streak". The trick is in
what color you are going to lay down, feathering it in, and getting it
to sit (cure) so that the texture is not disturbed (topcoating the
entire flat area helps).

These touch up procedures are not practical for someone without the
tools, materials or techniques to try. Yes, a different finisher would
be needed to undo what was carelessly done. Remember what I said about
getting what you paid for. That has to be defined and agreed upon before
the undertaking of a project. 

It amy not be that your finisher was incompetent. But certainly he did
not stand behind his work (he reminds me of a slick occupier of the Oval
Office who also will not accept any responsibility for his actions;
maybe Vince Foster ruined your walnut).
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel


From ac258@chebucto.ns.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:17 EST 1997
Article: 193348 of rec.woodworking
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From: ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Creating a FIRST straight-edge
Date: 30 Mar 1997 03:41:43 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <5hkndn$uj@News.Dal.Ca>
References: <19970321034700.WAA13891@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bc38e9$7e70fa40$427069ce@default>
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Ed Reiss (ereiss@kih.net) wrote:
: David
: The idea here is to get a fence that is longer than the piece. To that end
: a ten foot length of 2" angle iron clamped to your tablesaw's fence would
: give you that extra contact surface to get a straight FIRST cut.
: -- 
: Ed Reiss
: Berea KY
: ereiss@kih.net

Harvey Freeman ac258@chebucto.ns.ca wrote on March 27, 1997
I use the above concept but found that an aluminum tube from a commercial 
aluminum store front supplier to be far straighter.  They often have 
blemished material they will sell at a reasonable price. 
 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
: ....don't just stand there.....make something!!
: <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

: DMarlen <dmarlen@aol.com> wrote in article
: <19970321034700.WAA13891@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
: > I bought some exotic woods at a lumber warehouse.  Nice prices, I
: > believed.  Anyway, I couldn't wait around while they ripped-trimmed one
: > edge to make it straight.  It's always much easier to start with one side
: > that is straight.  So my boards have neither side straight.  What's the
: > best way to get one straight edge?
: > 
: > I do have a 6" jointer, so the table is maybe 28" long.  Not necessarily
: > long enough to do the board.  I was wondering if there was a good way to
: > do it on a tablesaw.
: > 
: > David.
: > 
: > 

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page 
http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From spudspa@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:18 EST 1997
Article: 193349 of rec.woodworking
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From: spudspa@aol.com (Spudspa)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drill Press Quality - How Important?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 04:02:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Don't buy a Harbor freight; or maybe I should say, how'd you like to buy
mine? I've worked and worked to get the run-out within tolerable range,
but no luck. Buy something quality.


From ac258@chebucto.ns.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:19 EST 1997
Article: 193350 of rec.woodworking
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From: ac258@chebucto.ns.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bellsaw Planer
Date: 30 Mar 1997 03:59:50 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
Lines: 26
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Rector (rector@nh.ultranet.com) wrote:
: Hi!

: An individual in my area has a used Bellsaw Planer (12 inch) for
: sale.......asking $400 which seems high to me given the current price of
: Delta, etc.  I am not familiar with this company and don't know what these
: would sell for new.  Anyone know anything about these planers?

: Thanks,
: Bill

Harvey Freeman wrote on March 27, 1997
I purchased one of these planers about 23 years ago.  It is not used a 
lot but it is an excellent machine.  At the time I paid about $900.CAN 
with the r in addition.
and switch.  I made the deci---------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page 
http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From BRUCE.WOHLFELD@Worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:20 EST 1997
Article: 193351 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:11:25 -0600
From: BRUCE.WOHLFELD@Worldnet.att.net
Subject: Woodcraft Instructors Wanted
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859694269.11217@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
To: Bruce.Wohlfeld@Worldnet.att.net
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My brother is looking for expert Timber and Woodworking instructors
to teach various woodworking courses involving efficient, non-power
tools.  Classes will be in the Midwest.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ledaniel@inwave.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:21 EST 1997
Article: 193352 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Daniel Le" <ledaniel@inwave.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: 30 Mar 1997 04:22:37 GMT
Lines: 19
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I used a program by IMSI called Turbocad 3.0.  It sells for about $99.  I
have not used any other programs so I can't compare this program to others
for you, but I find it easy to use.

Bill Davis Jr. <billd@ssnet.com> wrote in article
<333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com>...
> All,
> 	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
> 
> Any advice would be helpful
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bill D
> billd@ssnet.com
> 
> 


From ajkettle@mail.atcon.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:22 EST 1997
Article: 193353 of rec.woodworking
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From: Whistler <ajkettle@mail.atcon.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:42:46 -0800
Organization: Auracom Internet Services
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------74F0120D5E88
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David White wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
> it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am
> considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
> wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
>  to share about this species?
> 
> Thank You
> David WhiteHi David,

I have heard the same thing about tamarack. I have had a piece in the 
basement for years but haven't had a project for it. Make the deck and 
let us know how it turns out.

Tony Kettle

--------------74F0120D5E88
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<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
                                                                                
Tony Kettle,    }                            Occupation  
Corner Brook    }                             ----------------
Newfoundland    }          Papermaking - Secondary Fibre Procurement
  
Hobbies            }   Philately/Woodworking/Genealogy/Gardening/Hiking/Railroads
                                                                               Researching family names KETTLE/SHATTOCK/FARNILL/HUNT/GAWLER                                                    
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

--------------74F0120D5E88--



From smits@frontiernet.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:22 EST 1997
Article: 193354 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dave Smits" <smits@frontiernet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eastern White Cedar
Date: 30 Mar 1997 04:30:07 GMT
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It would weather well as its impervious to moisture, but its very soft so
its not going to work well for flooring.

bcompton <bcompton@news.megalink.net> wrote in article
<01bc3c63$d90a6fe0$513cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>...
> I trying to find wood flooring for a small porch.  My question is, can
> eastern white cedar be used for this purpose?  I don't know a think about
> this wood but it is fairly common in my area.
> 
> Bill Compton
> bcompton@megalink.net
> 
> 


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:23 EST 1997
Article: 193355 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's technique
Date: 30 Mar 1997 04:31:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 47
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What I think Norm does best is efficiently use the tools he's got.  Now,
granted the shows are taped, so if he does make mistakes, we'll never see
them, but I'm willing to bet he doesn't make many.  Keep in mind also that
his projects are more on the simple side than the complex side. (His book,
"Mostly Shaker" for example.)  We'll never see a book from Norm called
"Mostly Chippendale".
Let me post scrip this message to say I am a big fan of his and watch him
whenever I can. 
-- 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com

Frank O'Donnell <fod@netcom.com> wrote in article
<fodE7ntHx.24B@netcom.com>...
> John Paquay <jep@physics.purdue.edu> writes:
> 
> >What does bother me at times is that Norm has this 
> >fun show and all this state-of-the-art machinery and 
> >tooling to use, and all the while it's obvious that 
> >I'm a better woodworker than he is.  Most of us here 
> >probably are.  Norm's a great carpenter and a good 
> >contractor, but he's a so-so furniture and cabinetmaker.
> >
> > ...
> >
> >Oops, I didn't intend to start a new 'Norm' thread.
> 
> Me neither, but you raise a point that I can't resist
> asking for more on.  As a woodworking newbie I've been
> watching Norm for a couple of months and reading this
> newsgroup for about the same amount of time.  A number
> of people here have alluded at one time or another to
> being a better woodworker than Norm is.  Apart from
> his idiosyncrasies (the New England accent, the 
> standard litany on shop safety, the laser do-hickeys
> and other advanced power tools), the only fault I recall
> reading in terms of his actual woodworking technique 
> had to do with a comment in an adjacent thread regarding
> the use of nails in visible surfaces of furniture pieces.
> Just to help educate me, what else does Norm do 
> technique-wise that tells you he's a so-so 
> woodworker?  (Or, well, if you're sick of talking
> about Norm, then let the question pass ...)
> 
> Frank O'Donnell
> South Pasadena, CA
> fod@netcom.com
> 


From moo@sofnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:24 EST 1997
Article: 193356 of rec.woodworking
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From: "cjones" <moo@sofnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: NEEDED:  Craft/Sewing enthusiasts
Date: 30 Mar 1997 01:13:50 GMT
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NEEDED:  Craft/Sewing enthusiasts in Southwest Missouri, Northwest
Arkansas, Southeast Kansas, and Northeast Oklahoma!

I have a retail store in Mt. Vernon, Missouri (between Springfield and
Joplin on I-44) and I may be interested in
purchasing or accept consignments on products you make.  If you are
interested in placing your handmade items in my business, please contact me
at the following address:

moo@sofnet.com



From tpenn@dallas.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:25 EST 1997
Article: 193357 of rec.woodworking
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From: tpenn@dallas.net (Tandy Penn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Outfeed Table for Delta Contractor II TS
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 05:10:37 GMT
Organization: Dallas Net
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Delta makes a set of outfeed table brackets which do exactly what the
original poster wanted, fold down when not in use. I think that they are
about $50, you supply the wood. Be advised that if you have the uniguard on
the saw, they will not work in combination with that guard.


================================================
Tandy Penn      inet:       tpenn@plano.net
Richardson, Tx. compuserve: 74720,1333

"Beware of programmers that carry screwdrivers."
                    \|/
                    @ @
----------------oOO-(_)-OOo---------------------


From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:26 EST 1997
Article: 193358 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Waterglass (Sodium Si.) for woods fireproofing ?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 05:30:22 GMT
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I had heard years ago about this - maybe maybe not true.

I do know that for years, it was used to 'glue' glass together.
Multi-plane pannels could be made - e.g. - clear Peanut & butter!

I think the Airforce used it for that - on multi-layer 'portholes'
on the older planes. - multi-layer helped in pressure and 'stressed'
windows.

I do remember it being messy - it would crust up around the cap.
Martin
"Bradley M. Small" <bms@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Hmmm, 
>Waterglass solution brings back lots of memories. Many a trick was
>suggested in my chemistry sets as a kid for uses of this solution. One of
>which was treating the outside of a ciggarette to keep it from smoldering
>when not being actively smoked (interesting suggestion in a kids chemistry
>set eh?) 
>
>It is also used to waterproof concrete floors I believe. If you do get
>some, be sure not to get it on anything that you ever want to use again
>(clothing etc.) 
>
>If you get the wood permiated with it, I would assume it will not burn,
>though under appropriate tgemperatures the wood will still carbonize and
>stuff, but it should bnot flare to a flame.
>
>YMMV, and BTW I am not a physicist or a chemist... 
>
>Bradley
>
snip... since my service refuses to send long inclusions.




From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:27 EST 1997
Article: 193359 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: 30 Mar 1997 05:34:18 GMT
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Just a note -
Someone in Oregon should post something - it is native there
as I recall.
Martin




From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:28 EST 1997
Article: 193360 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TUNE YOUR MITRE GAUGE
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 05:59:39 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:27:16 -0800, Michael Fedock
<mfedock1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>The bar of your mitre gauge must fit tightly into the groove of your 
>table saw.  If you try to move the gauge from side to side and you feel 
>it shift, the fit is too loose, LeTrec.  Take the gauge out and peen the 
>edges of the bar up and down both edges, from the top.  Try the fit 
>again.  Repeat until you have a nice, snug fit.  If tou peen too much, 
>just thin the edge down by draw filing the edges.

This is interesting.  FWIW, I've always heard to peen only the side of
the bar that's away from the blade, so as not to disturb the alignment
of the bar relative to the inboard edge of the slot, which presumably
is precisely parallel to the blade.  Since the miter gauge is most
often used to the left of the blade, the left edge would be peened.
Also, the peening is usually recommended on the side of the bar,
rather than on the top, so as to create more bearing surface from the
mushroomed metal.  Actually, I think the best solution is problem is
probably the "cool block" retrofit kit sold by Garret-Wade for about
$15.  Haven't tried this yet, as I have a half dozen miter gauges and
I'd like to find a cheap source for the cylindrical cool block
material.  dcr



From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:06:28 EST 1997
Article: 193361 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hand planes
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:34:54 -0600
Organization: Houston Area League of PC Users
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BAH wrote:
> 
> I've been looking to pick up a Record 04 smoothing plane.  I've noticed
> that some of them out there have a brass colored knob on the front that
> keeps the blade secure while others have a sort of flip-lock thing that
> you pull open to release the blade.  Both seem to be about the same
> price and both seem to tbe the high end of the Record line.  What if any
> is the difference?  Should I care?

Instead of the Record have you considered a vintage Stanley?  I have new
English made Bailey Stanley #4, it cuts OK after the usual tuning.  I
also have a 60+ year old Stanley #3c, bought in an antique shop for
$23.00, after tuning it is better than SEX! and even better after the
Hock blade (I'm equally happy with the #5c and the 7c I picked up in the
same manner).  You can probably pick a real nice "old" plane for the
same money & I believe you'd be much happier in the long run.  You can
find several very good dealers at the Electronic Neanderthal - Patrick
Leach is the first one that comes to mind. Just my two cents worth.

Good Luck
Buzz


From &ellingm@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:29 EST 1997
Article: 193362 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Ellingson <&ellingm@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Styrofoam
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 01:06:24 -0800
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clem jensen wrote:
> 
> I've built some models out of styrafoam.What paints can I use ? I know
> that the solvent based paints will disolve the styrafoam.

You might want to try coating the styrafoam with Gesso as a base.  You 
can by it in  most art supply stores.  After a couple coats, I've been 
able to apply epxoy resin.  The Gesso comes in multiple colors.

To respond by e-mail, please remove the "&" from address.


From luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:30 EST 1997
Article: 193363 of rec.woodworking
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From: luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca (Luigi Zanasi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 04:06:12 GMT
Organization: Posted via CAIS Internet <info@cais.com>
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dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David White) wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
>it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
>considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
>wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
> to share about this species?

Tamarack, larix laricina, is a larch, not a juniper. The only northern
conifer that loses its needles in the fall.

It has a pretty good resitance to rot, better than pine or spruce, but
not as good as cedar. But it's harder than most of your eastern
softwoods. It used to be used for railroad ties. It should be good for
your deck.

Hope this helps

Luigi


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:31 EST 1997
Article: 193364 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Holes in walnut - what are they?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:40:21 GMT
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Mr. Bryant,

To answer your question, perhaps it is the lyctid powderpost beetle
rather than the anobiid powderpost beetle that you have.  The frass
will not have the elongated pellets that are teltale of the anobiid
beetles

The lyctid powderpost beetle likes wood iwth 8-28% moisture content.

Treat the bench if that is the only infested item.  You have several
methods  of treatment available to rid yourself of the problem.  The
safest is the modified atmosphere method where you bag the infested
item and purge the oxygen with nitrogen, this is oversimplified but I
can give you more info if you need.  Or you can bag the bench and
treat it with a toxic fumigant.

=============================================================


On Mon, 24 Mar 1997 10:09:28 -0500, sbryant@capture.kodak.com wrote:

>Robert Klein wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The anobiid powderpost beetles make 1/8" holes.  Withs this type you
>> will usually see elongated pellets mixed with the fine powdered frass.
>> the exit holes are 1/16 to 1/8" in diameter.  If the moisture is less
>> than 13% activity is halted.
>
>If this is true why is finished furniture attacked? The moisture content
>is less than 13%. I have a shop and have noticed that my maple workbench
>has been attacked. Will the infestation die off by itself or do I need
>to take proactive steps to halt it? This is assuming that all of the
>wood stored in the shop has a moisture content of less than 13%.



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From collins+@osu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:06:32 EST 1997
Article: 193365 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Clifford A. Collins" <collins+@osu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta table saw problem
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:00:41 -0500
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My brother-in-law gave me his Delta Contractor saw (34-445) when he
received delivery on his General cabinet saw. However, it was missing
a few parts. So, like a good purest, I ordered them through an
authorized Delta distributor.

Two of the missing items were the wrenches for changing the blade
on the saw. One is to hold the arbor from rotating and the other is
for loosening the retainer nut. Problem: there is not enough
clearance between the arbor casting that holds the arbor bearings
and the cupped washer that clamps against the saw blade to allow
the wrench access to the arbor. See low-tech artwork below.


               +------ saw blade
      cupped   |
      washer   |        +-----cupped washer
        |      v        |
 nut    |     ||        v  +----- wrench suppose to fit in here
  |     v     ||           |
  v      /|   ||       |\  v
 +-+    / |   ||       | \  +------+
 | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |- 
 | |   |  |   ||   |   |  | |      |  <---arbor
 | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |-
 +-+    \ |   ||       | /  +-+  +-+
         \|   ||       |/     |  |  <--- arbor casting
              ||

Anybody had this problem? Yeah, I know, just stick a piece of wook
against the blade. But, I'm a purest and want the tools to do what
they were intended to do. Is it worth calling Delta?

Clifford


From rballen@uiuc.edu Wed Apr  2 12:06:32 EST 1997
Article: 193366 of rec.woodworking
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From: "R. Bates Allen" <rballen@uiuc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ALIGN-IT or TS-ALIGNER?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 01:06:55 -0600
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
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I bought the TS-ALIGNER JR. about a month ago through the Hartville Tool
Catalog.  I think it was $99.  I was very pleased with the product
design found it easy to use, with good documentation.  I did a thorough
setup on my Jet table saw.  It has never been better.  Cannot comment on
the ALIGN-IT, which I read about in Wood Magazine a few months ago.

I felt that for a price of around $100, any device that makes it easy to
get VERY accurate machine setup is a worthwhile investment. There is a
TS-ALIGNER HOMEPAGE at
	
		http://www.primenet.com/~ejb/

Bates Allen
rballen@uiuc.edu


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:33 EST 1997
Article: 193367 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: glue suitable for brass inlays
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:58:46 GMT
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Stick with the hide glue. 
================================




On Fri, 21 Mar 1997 17:53:46 GMT, mkpopp@ix.netcom.com (Mark Popp)
wrote:

>mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide) wrote:
>
>> 
>>I have a piece of furniture which has quite a lot of brass inlays
>>,many of which are loose .These loose inlays are mainly as expected
>>xgrain applications .
>>Years ago I repaired a chest built for the earl of Derby and was a
>>copy of one of the eighteenth century French court pieces .At that
>>time I used an old recipe  of hot hide glue and a little garlic added
>>It seemed to work ok but I was wondering if there might now be some
>>thing more advanced on the market .
>>                    mjh 
>
>You might consider super glue, but be sure to do some testing
>first.  The glue is runny and excess soaks into the wood, sealing
>it.  You might not be able to remove the brasses in the future.
>
>I used it for a brass inlay in a marking gage.  For testing, I
>glued a penny to a piece of wood.  I can't knock the penny off,
>but I can knock chunks out of it.
>Mark P.
>
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:06:34 EST 1997
Article: 193368 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell tilting arbor table saw
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 06:57:12 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
Lines: 32
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Try 

Delta International Machinery Corp. If there's no distributor in South
Africa, write them care of 

246 Alpha Drive
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
USA 15238

or, Telex 75291

Delta now produce what used to be Rockwell, and they still use the
same part numbers. The 34-400 - actually 34-44x - series is for what
they now call the Delta 10" Contractor's Saw. They'll undoubtedly be
able to send you any parts you require. 

On 29 Mar 1997 17:08:59 GMT, "Warren" <warrenm@iafrica.com> wrote:

>Hi,
>I hope someone out there can help my dad and I. We have got our hands on an
>old Rockwell tilting arbor table saw.  The numbers on the name plate are as
>follows:
>catalog: 34-400
>serial number: DH5257
>The only part we are missing is the "arbor bracket".  We have inquired all
>over South Africa but nobody can help.  Could someone please put us in
>contact with a powertool agent /store that could possibly help us in
>obtaining the item we require?  Any leads would be appreciated!
>Thanks in anticipation!
>
>Warren Marshall



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:06:35 EST 1997
Article: 193369 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Phoney addresses to thwart spammers
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 06:57:17 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <333dea87.55014515@news.asianet.net.hk>
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Okay "Little Women", you've pointed out the problem, but what's your
solution. I assume from your alias that you're using "anonymizer" or a
similar filter.


On 29 Mar 1997 17:17:21 GMT, janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin) wrote:

>I've noticed a large number of addresses with phoney return addresses and
>the real address towards the bottom of the note.
>
>Any programmer worth her (his) salt can easily filter out characters (i.e.
>'*') that don't belong in an address and derive a legitimate address. This
>is not rocket science; any high-school kid could figure it out.
>
>Point is, if you wish to doctor up your address (either your return
>address or your address embedded within your note), make sure that it
>blends in with the rest of the text. It must be well camouflaged so that a
>program can't detect it.  yes, it's a pain. But we are, after all, a
>democracy.
>
>JA



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:06:36 EST 1997
Article: 193370 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing Teak
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 06:57:19 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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Go to a local marina or boat supply shop and buy some Teak Brite or
similar brand teak restorer. That will bring your natural colour back
prior to refinishing.

On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:22:22 -0400, Kate <kate@nortel.c> wrote:

>I am re-finishing a teak dining room table. When I started,
>I noticed that the areas of wood that had been in constant contact
>with the air had turned a brown colour as compared with the 
>redish hue of the sheltered wood (the leaves).  I had hoped that this
>was just the finish oxidizing, but now that I have stripped off the 
>finish, the brown colour remains.  It has been suggested to me
>that the colour is a result of the oil in the wood itself oxidizing,
>in which case no amount of stripping will get rid of it.
>
>The center of the table is a veneer, and I am loathe to take a 
>sander to it.  Are there any techniques that anyone can suggest
>that can return the wood to its original colour?  I am concerned 
>that if I try some bleach, I will simply lighten the brown and it
>still won't match the red of the leaves.
>
>Thanks 
>
>Katherine Anderson
>my real email: katherin@nortel.ca



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Article: 193371 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Crack in oak panel
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How will this check cause structural problems?  
Is this only at one area of the panel?  How deep?  How many?

If it will not caues a structural problem then do not worry with it. 

If it is is in an area that will be a problem (structural or visual)
make a paste of hot hide glue and fine red oak sawdust to fill the
check.


=======================================================


On Fri, 21 Mar 1997 11:07:27 -0500, Joseph Jacob <JacobJ@aetna.com>
wrote:

>I have some red oak that had been air-dried for seven or eight years in my 
>uncle's basement.  About a year or so ago I had it resawed into 3/4" planks and 
>glued up into panels, with the idea of making a tall chest of drawers.  I 
>recently noticed that there is a crack (check?) along the grain in one of the 
>panels.
>
>Can I somehow repair the panel and still build my chest, or should I come up with 
>a different project?
>-- 
>Joe Jacob
>(This is what I think, not necessarily what Aetna thinks ...)



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:38 EST 1997
Article: 193372 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: REQ :  how to spray a finish on oak.
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:12:01 GMT
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Shellac.  

Brush or spray, fast dry, excellent properties.  Use thin coats 2
pound cut, orange or clear.

=====================================


On Sat, 22 Mar 1997 09:18:14 GMT, jerryl@unicom.net (Jerry) wrote:

>I'm building an oak bed, and want suggestions on what finishes would
>work well for me. 
>Thank you.      .
>jerryl@unicom.net
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:38 EST 1997
Article: 193373 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hide Glue??
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:26:29 GMT
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Using alcohol to disassemble hide glue joints will work but it
crystalizes the glue and it is no longer reusable and must be removed.
Warm water to loosen joints leaves the glue reuseable.

Hide glue is quite strong but the proper gram strength must be used
for the application.  For example if you want a slow setting glue use
the 135 to 225 gram strength, use the 275-315 test glues for fast
sets.   If you dilute a higher gram strength glue to achieve slow
setting properties you will be left with a weak joint.  Use the lower
gram glue and keep the proper water/glue ratio.
=================================================================

On 23 Mar 1997 19:58:25 GMT, Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com> wrote:

 
>[It is called "hide" glue because it is made by boiling the hides of 
>dead animals. This accounts for its characteristic smell. It should be 
>used if the pieces you are gluing are ever to be disassembled for 
>repair, as it can be dissolved with alcohol. For this same reason, it 
>shouldn't be used for saloon furniture. The modern glues: epoxy,
>Titebond II, Gorilla, etc. do a better job of holding things together,
>but it is very difficult to persuade them to ever let go.]
>
>
>
>Andrew Werby - United Artworks
>
>http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid
>
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:39 EST 1997
Article: 193374 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to unglue 100 yr old chair ? Carefully, I know but..
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:28:12 GMT
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Why take it apart?

=====================================================

On 23 Mar 1997 05:08:30 GMT, fp1@aol.com (FP1) wrote:

>My daughter wants me to refinish a rocking chair that she bought recently.
>It's presumably 100 years old, mission style, kind of rough and  not the
>best looking thing in the world but ....
>It's made out of oak planks which were bent to form the arms, the back and
>the rockers.  I think the oak will be nice once I strip it but to do that
>I need to take it apart.  It has a few screws - so those are no problem
>but the back and arms are held by glued dowels.
>I need advice on how to soften up the glue and any other hints on the
>refinishing job.
>Thanks in advance
>Frankie



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:40 EST 1997
Article: 193375 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:42:18 GMT
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Not a stupid question at all.  

Aside from the practice of using linseed oil in the past (and present)
which darkens with time, remember that houses were heated with fire,
coal, wood,  oil, and other soot producing fuels.  

There were drastic changes in moisture and humidity within the homes
also.  This would soften finishes which were generally oils, waxes,
and spirit varnishes.

=======================================================


On Mon, 24 Mar 1997 08:24:41 +0000, Mike <paperboy@skylink.net> wrote:

>Maybe it's a stupid question, but why did the old time craftsmen prefer
>darker finishes? I see so many great older pieces, with lots of
>indivdual style and care, but all seem so dark. Was that the only or the
>best option back then?



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:41 EST 1997
Article: 193376 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is a safe finish for a baby cradle?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:44:11 GMT
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Shellac.

==========================================

On 25 Mar 1997 06:14:35 GMT, pharmerdan@aol.com (PharmerDan) wrote:

>I am building an oak baby cradle and would like advice about a finish that
>would be safe.  A friend suggested Tung oil, or a water based
>polyurethane?  
>Which would be better?  Is there another that would be better?
>I would appreciate any help.



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From jpleuer@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:42 EST 1997
Article: 193377 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John P. Leuer" <jpleuer@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for Stickley Morris Chair?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:06:35 -0800
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I am looking for a book that might contain authentic plans for furniture
in the Arts and Craft style of Gustave Stickley. Specifically, I would
like to build a replica of the "Morris Chair". Has anyone seen such a
reference?

Thanks in Advance...

Best Regards

John Leuer


From davidht@pipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:43 EST 1997
Article: 193378 of rec.woodworking
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From: davidht@pipeline.com (David H. Tasso)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Most bendable plywood?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:59:27 GMT
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We "wiggle" wood.   Its a three layer ply thats very bendable.  It
comes is several thickneses:  1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  They all are a
bit light of stated sthickness, and also you can get them in 4 by 8
or 8 by 4.  For thiner stock we get bass wood.  Very flexable but also
very fragile because it is only one ply.  We get these from well
stocked lumber yards around NYC, so they are probably around your are
too.



From cucumu@ct2.nai.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:44 EST 1997
Article: 193379 of rec.woodworking
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From: cucumu@ct2.nai.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making Pine Look Old
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:14:07 GMT
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Try Nitric Acid (20%) brushed on, then heated with a heat-gun.
Experiment on scraps first, of course. Jeff Jewitt shows how to do
this in a video called Hand-Applied Finishes: Coloring Wood 
(the Taunton Press, Newtown Ct.)

On 29 Mar 1997 19:52:36 GMT, tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21) wrote:

>  I am into shaker and colonial furnature and keep trying to get the
>"real" old look of pine from new wood.  I have tried different stains and
>even barn siding (this comes the closest until you plane it) and I would
>love any ideas.
>



From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:45 EST 1997
Article: 193380 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laminating question
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:02:45 GMT
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I have used a plastic resin glue for exterior work.  It is a brown
powder that is mixed with water but I do not remember the brand.

=====================


On Mon, 24 Mar 1997 23:45:42 -0800, amo1@post1.com wrote:

>I'm building an arched lattice entryway to a garden and I thought the
>best way to get the arch on top would be to laminate some wood together
>then trim the edges for the semicircle. I've never laminated anything
>before and hope someone can tell me what kind of glue to use and how to
>clamp it. Would regular pipe clamps work? I'll be using just plain old
>Doug Fir since it's an outside structure and will be painted anyway.
>Thanks.



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From jpleuer@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:46 EST 1997
Article: 193381 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John P. Leuer" <jpleuer@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for Stickley Morris Chair?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:19:26 -0800
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I am looking for a book that might contain authentic plans for furniture
in the Arts and Craft style of Gustave Stickley. Specifically, I would
like to build a replica of the "Morris Chair". Has anyone seen such a
reference?

Thanks in Advance...

Best Regards

John Leuer

______________________________________________________________________________
John P. Leuer                     | e-mail (work):
Leuer#d#John@ssdgwy.mdc.com
McDonnell Douglas Aerospace-West  | e-mail (home): JohnLeuer@aol.com
Space Station Division            | Bus. Phone:    714.896.4646 
5301 Bolsa Ave, MS A3/17-3/3B36   |
http://members.aol.com/JohnLeuer/leuer.html
Huntington Beach, CA  92647       | other...   INTERNET CoolTalk
______________________________________________________________________________


From gleggett@u.washington.edu Wed Apr  2 12:06:47 EST 1997
Article: 193382 of rec.woodworking
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From: "G. Leggett" <gleggett@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: circular saws
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:10:25 -0800
Organization: University of Washington
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193382

Talked to a guy who does a lot of wooden boat restoration work about his
choice for 10" circular saw blades.  He raved about these new Matsushita
carbide tipped thin kerf blades.  He said he has been in the woodworking
business for 50 years and there is just nothing like them. Claims that the
table saw at his place has had one on for three years and gets used about
25-40 hours a week by several fellows and it still cuts like day one.

Thanks for starting a thread on the subject.  I need new blades and have
been wondering what to do.  Stupidly I forgot to ask this guy where to get
the Matsushita saw blades---because I have called around and no one has
them---and I also don't see them advertised in the wood magazines.

		Gerry 




From umprocho@cc.umanitoba.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:48 EST 1997
Article: 193383 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ron Prochot <umprocho@cc.umanitoba.ca>
Newsgroups: alt.architecture,alt.architecture.int-design,alt.construction,alt.building.architecture,alt.building.construction,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: hlp:small post/beam studio
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:57:53 +0000
Organization: Faculty of Architecture, University of Manitoba
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Ken Blessing wrote:
> 
> I am looking for suggestions--be they books, companies, architects, etc.  
> 
> I would like to do the field work myself, but I would be happy to pay for outside
> assistance with design and/or planning and/or materials.  Comments or suggestions

There are a fair number of good timber frame builders in your area. Pick
up some magazines at your local cornerstore, supermarket orbook store to
get a listing of some of them. Whoever you work with, please take the
time to check out references. You'll save yourself a LOT of headaches. 
There are also quite a few good books.

Good luck.




From dmack@northernnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:48 EST 1997
Article: 193384 of rec.woodworking
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From: Don MacKinnon <dmack@northernnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grizzly Drum Sander
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:37:50 -0800
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I'm looking for any advice on how to eliminate a "new" problem with my 1 
amd 1/2-year-old Grizzly 24" drum sander.  I'm getting end snipe on the 
last 6-8 inches of nearly every board that's going through this machine. 
I didn't have this problem when the machine was new. Any idea's as to 
what the culprit may be? Thanks in advance,
Don MacKinnon


From themax@idirect.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:49 EST 1997
Article: 193385 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: themax@idirect.com (Norm Mac Donald)
Subject: Futon Plans
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Our waterbeds consume far too much energy and are not as space saving as
futons.  

Could someone please send me /or provide me with information to obtain
some woodworking plans to make my own futon?

Thank You


From mikeandlee@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:50 EST 1997
Article: 193386 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikeandlee@aol.com (MikeandLee)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Phone Number for Woodworkers Warehouse
Date: 30 Mar 1997 10:31:52 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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The Woodworkers Warehouse stores are independent franchises and each have
there own phone number.  For the location and phone # of the one nearest
you call 800.827.5632

The parent company of Woodworkers Warehouse is TRENDLINES out of Revere,
Massachusetts.  They sell by mail order (pretty much the same stuff as in
any Woodworkers Warehouse location but the prices can be a little higher).
 Trendlines phone number is 800.767.9999

                                                                          
      Mike



From joe@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca Wed Apr  2 12:06:51 EST 1997
Article: 193387 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe McSheffery <joe@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood hardness scale?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:06:26 -0600
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Try going to http://www.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild  select "Articles" from
the main page, then on the Articles page select #8.  Article is slanted
towards WoodTurning but has some very useful info.

Joe Mcsh


From mikeandlee@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:52 EST 1997
Article: 193388 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikeandlee@aol.com (MikeandLee)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Timber Check moisture meter?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 10:38:50 GMT
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I don't know how good the TIMBER CHECK moisture meter is but I can tell
you that McFEELY'S mail order (800.443.7937) sells them for $59.95!


                                                                       
Mike



From davelehman@loewen.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:53 EST 1997
Article: 193389 of rec.woodworking
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From: davelehman@loewen.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: blueprint for stagecoach?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 04:14:47 GMT
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My brother in-law spent the last year restoring an old horse-drawn
buggy. He had a lot of fun--in fast, his next dream project is to
build a stagecoach (don't ask...).

Where does one begin in the search for instructions and/or blueprints
on building a stagecoach? Any suggestions, comments, or ideas would be
greatly appreciated. (Or even which other newgroup might be more
appropriate?)

Reply by e-mail if you don't mind. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Dave Lehman
(davelehman@loewen.com)



From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:53 EST 1997
Article: 193390 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: polyurethane over shellac ???
Message-ID: <8D4E2B5.0233014CD1.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 11:33:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Read the label on the POLYESTER CAN! itll tell ya if itll cover Shellac
or not...When all else fails remember R-T-F-M
                                          LW

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:54 EST 1997
Article: 193391 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source: Bartleys wood filler or your favorite...
Message-ID: <8D4E2CA.0233014CD2.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 11:54:00 -0600
Distribution: world
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call your favrite mfr direct and order the stuff you need,or learn howto
formulate your own by gettin howto books at the library,or readin Fine
Woodworkin Mag Or others that contain nice articles on stuff like
that,,I read in one recently how these fellers added Powdered Stone to a
liquid to use as a filler cuz it was so sand-able after hardening! I
think the problems of Brands and types of products you find at the local
Hrdwr chainstore are typical cuz these places are in it strictly for the
$$$ and only sell fast movin,highly marketed stuff which in most cases
is crapola cuz most of the finest materials arent found in the local
chain...To locate your MFRs use the THOMAS REGISTER its online somewhere
and also every library usually carries one cuz it contains All the MFRs
in the USA [maybe foreign too i dont remember] And if your in a big
hurry to get a Toll-free number for Any MFR just call 1-800-555-1212 and
ask the operator if there is a number for your party-This technique aint
100% but will yield good results more often than not...Many Excellent
MFRs of Finshes and products are also found in Woodenboat magazine..
PS.FWIW i just saw a good book at the library of over 1,000 formulations
for paints,gessos,washes,fillers,and much more! it was an old book with
alot of use but contained formulas of old
Whitewashes,Limewashes,Milkpaints,and many formulas of stuff used in
Europe as well as Usa and some formulas have been used for Tjhousands
of yrs! Also possibly some help in RODALES book of Formulas too..
                                         Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:55 EST 1997
Article: 193392 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeeds.sol.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Manual needed for old tablesaw
Message-ID: <8D4E2B3.0233014CD0.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 11:31:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
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Everything Sears ever Sold is recorded on a FILM CARD somewhere,,The
Parts lists,etc can all be found on Film cards..If you cant get anything
then try to locate old books with instrux on saws SIMILAR to
yours,,Libraries may carry some old manuals in the Howto sections
                                    LW

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From kahuna2@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:06:56 EST 1997
Article: 193393 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsrelay.netins.net!news.ececs.uc.edu!newsfeeds.sol.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Kevin Duff <kahuna2@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: motor hp
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:19:17 -0800
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I have an old 50's Craftsman table saw. Everything works peachy except 
that it has only a 1 hp motor. It bogs down when I cut thick stock or 
have the arbor tilted to more than 20 degrees. Is it worth the $200 or 
so for a 2 hp motor????? Ant email responses would be appreciated!


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:06:57 EST 1997
Article: 193394 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making Pine Look Old
Date: 30 Mar 1997 13:26:27 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Nitric acid is VERY nasty stuff. If you get it on you, it will turn your
screen brown as it nitrifies one of the amino acids in your skin proteins
(forget which one).

I would only use in in a commercial hood with a glass front or outdoors
watching which way the wind was blowing and use full face and arm
protection.

Be careful of this stuff folks.

Jane

Try Nitric Acid (20%) brushed on, then heated with a heat-gun.
Experiment on scraps first, of course. Jeff Jewitt shows how to do
this in a video called Hand-Applied Finishes: Coloring Wood 
(the Taunton Press, Newtown Ct.)




From joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:06:58 EST 1997
Article: 193395 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!newshub.csu.net!news.ironhorse.com!nntp.portal.ca!van-bc!uniserve!newsfeeds.sol.net!europa.clark.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!stahelin.demon.co.uk!stahelin.demon.co.uk!joe
From: "Charles (Joe) Stahelin" <joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Solar Wood Kiln
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 12:26:42 +0100
Organization: None
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <efAmzXAy3kPzEwuG@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
References: <01bc3a22$94700680$50f69ace@default>
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In article <01bc3a22$94700680$50f69ace@default>, Fred Varden
<fredric@traveller.com> writes
>I am looking for plans to build solar kiln to dry 250 to 500 bd ft. Can
>anyone out there help?  Thanks
>
The Centre for Alternative Technology, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 9AZ, UK.

e-mail:  Cat@gn.apc.org
Web      http://www.foe.co.uk/CAT
Tel:     (UK) 01654 702400
Fax:          01654 702782

This is a good information source and is tied in with international
interests in energy saving and "green" matters generally.   They have a
lot of leaflets and a bookshop.
-- 
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK


From joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:06:59 EST 1997
Article: 193396 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Charles (Joe) Stahelin" <joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:12:42 +0100
Organization: None
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <JeyzTfA6ilPzEwd0@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
References: <5h9m24$l9m@scel.sequent.com> <haubert.222.00283DA7@mbi.org>
 <01bc3b9e$760d83c0$c5ade1cc@kulinek> <haubert.228.001D7EE6@mbi.org>
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snip
In article <haubert.228.001D7EE6@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org writes
>An interesting comment, and I wonder why you would write that.  The vast 
>majority of hardwood floors are finished with PU.  The reason is lack of 
>maintenance required.
snip

I think the author of the above snippet must be engaged in selling
rather than in practical maintenance.   

Although I retired some time ago and may be out of touch with the latest
products I have yet to find a floor seal which is impervious to the
effects of grit, dust and other abrasive materials that get carried into
buildings on peoples' feet.   

The sanding and resealing of a worn or damaged floor is not only a time
consuming inconvenient process, it is also an expensive process.

The reason for applying a dressing on top of polyurethane and other
floor seals is to provide a wearing surface which both protects the
basic seal and which can  be refinished, easily, to provide a good
looking floor.   Note that I do not use the term polish as there is a
choice of floor finishes with differing wear properties and differing
degrees of shine.

In my experience the buffable, metalised, water-based floor finishes are
practical products for most situations.   If they are properly applied
and maintained they are not demanding and never need stripping off
provided that the floor is always cleaned properly before more polish is
applied.  Machine burnishing is recommended.

Golden rules: 
1.  Clean thoroughly before re-application.
2.  Apply in THIN coats.  Three thin are better than two thick.

DO NOT FORGET:  The most important thing is to concentrate on the
prevention of the entry into premises of dirt and abrasives carried on
footwear and clothing.   Doormats and things "spoil" appearances and are
very rarely big enough to be effective.   The real requirement is for
each foot to hit a mat twice.
-- 
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK


From joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:07:00 EST 1997
Article: 193397 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Charles (Joe) Stahelin" <joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wooden Floor in Maple HELP!!!!!
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:08:06 +0100
Organization: None
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <xdxNjvA2WmPzEwqi@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
References: <MPG.da23768ca8f8ab9989680@news.ping.be>
 <5ha8dn$o4u@fountain.mindlink.net> <GpD2WIARekOzEwGF@mtharry.demon.co.uk>
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In article <GpD2WIARekOzEwGF@mtharry.demon.co.uk>, Kit Davidson
<kit@mtharry.demon.co.uk> writes
snip
>You probably need some more detailed advice so my advice is this: stop
>>what you're doing and get some advice!

I agree.   Get hold of an expert and talk to him/her before you go
further.  Even if you have to pay for the advice (or for the job to be
done) you may find it cheaper than replacing spoilt timber.
-- 
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK


From joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:07:01 EST 1997
Article: 193398 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Charles (Joe) Stahelin" <joe@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch router: bit too tight?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:28:53 +0100
Organization: None
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <Uut0voAFylPzEwdv@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
References: <5gu703$p5v@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu>
 <19970326061401.BAA13732@ladder01.news.aol.com>
 <01bc3a2c$a19bde10$d70116ac@jallen>
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In article <01bc3a2c$a19bde10$d70116ac@jallen>, John Allen
<jallen@landmark.com> writes
>> Bosch routers have a two stage release.  You loosen some and it becomes
>> easy to turn and then tightens again.  Use the wrench and keep on turning
>> until it is real loose and you can extract the bit.  
>> 
Elu routers are the same.   

What is happening is:    on first loosening the collet-retaining nut the
collett remains in place;  as you unscrew the retaining nut further it
pulls the collet free from its seating and allows the collet jaws to
expand so releasing the cutter.
-- 
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK


From dsmith6875@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:01 EST 1997
Article: 193399 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!news.stealth.net!cdc2.cdc.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: dsmith6875@aol.com (DSmith6875)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Opinion on Grizzley 6" Jointer wanted
Date: 30 Mar 1997 13:35:52 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193399

I've been lurking for a while to see if this came up... not that I've
seen.  Anyway, anyone care to share their opinion on the Grizz 6" jointer?
 I have a very old 4" Delta that works fine for short boards but I need
something with a longer bed and the 47" bed on the Grizzley is very
attractive, and so is the price.  The Delta 6" is an inch shorter and $120
more.  Since I plan to have this tool for the rest of my woodworking life
the $120 is not a big deal if it is justified.  Thanks in advance.

Dennis Smith
Silver Spring, MD

PS If its not too much trouble, please respond to my email address as well
as this newsgroup.



From johnsonr@gc.adventist.org Wed Apr  2 12:07:02 EST 1997
Article: 193400 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Richard Johnson" <johnsonr@gc.adventist.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:38:28 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 28
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> Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= wrote:
> > 
> > Can anyone out there give me some information on Snakewood.
> > I am a knifemaker / woodworker and found a half log of snakewood
(approx
> > 6" in diameter, 24" long) at a supply store in Montreal, Quebec and the
> > asking price was $600.00 Canadian ???
> > Does this sound realistic?
> > As well, what is the scientific name for snakewood and where can it be
> > found.
> > I am looking for Burls of different kinds of hardwoods for knife
> > handles. Can anyone advise who would be a good supplier.
> > Thanks

	This price for the snakewood log seems a little extreme to me.  I would
not spend that if it is still in the rough log form.  My reason is that I
once bought a peice of ebony  in log (rough) form to save some money and it
must not have been completely dried because I got some horrendous checking
causing me to waste a lot of wood.  (yes, I know ebony is prone to
checking)  Unless the seller knows how it has been cared for and how long
it has been drying I don't buy rough anymore.  I find many dealers just get
the wood shipped in and for all they know it went from growing to shipping
crate the same day.

Rick  



From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:03 EST 1997
Article: 193401 of rec.woodworking
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From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Chemical safety: Used to be Re: Touching up Streaking?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 13:48:24 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 26
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When you say 'MEK', I assume you're referring to Methyl ethyl ketone?  
While I don't have the hazard data here, if memory serves me correctly,
this is very nasty stuff.

I don't want to be a bore on the subject of chemical safety, but with all
the highly toxic chemicals mentioned in this forum lately, someone is
bound to try to use them and injure themselves because they're not fully
aware of its potential dangers.

When you buy/use any of these chemicals, REALLY read the warnings. They're
not just there for the chemicals company's legal protection (although that
is a major reason).  They're also there to help you protect yourself. A
lawsuit is not going to bring you back your eyesight, restore your
scorched lungs, or eliminate cancers.

There have been countless posts regarding blades guards, but so few on
chemical safety.

>Subject: Re: Touching up Streaking?
>From: shafner@webspam.net
>Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:25:56 -0500
>Message-ID: <333DDD40.5A87@webspam.net>

>reduce it's viscosity with MEK, and brush it on in LONG, THIN,  and
>LIGHT brush strokes, imparting color to the "streak". The trick is in



From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:04 EST 1997
Article: 193402 of rec.woodworking
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From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:23:58 -0500
Organization: Easyway Communication Inc.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <333C6F2E.3210@easyway.net>
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Robert,
I've selected the Milwaukee, Super Sawzall.  Cuts through anything, runs
smooth.  I'm very satisfied with it.
Larry

Robert Van Deren wrote:
> 
> I have been doing a little remodeling and have noticed a nice reciprocating saw
> would be very handy.
> 
> What are peoples opinions as to the best recipro saw?
> --
> Robert Van Deren
> vanderen@bmt.net


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:07:05 EST 1997
Article: 193403 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WATCO Danish Oil ???
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:15:50 -0500
Organization: HY Creations
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <333E6786.2571@sympatico.ca>
References: <5gq8r9$t3g@news3.texas.net> <01bc3c97$e1dfcc80$5304dacd@thudchkr.minot>
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Thudchkr wrote:
> 
> I use a lot of Deft Danish Oil finish.  I have found it to be much less
> likely to bleed back when I use it on open grained woods like oak and even
> walnut.  When I used Watco I usually had to go back several times to wipe
> off the finish that bled back out of the pores of the wood, but rarely if
> ever do it when using Deft.
> 
> William Quiles <wquiles@texas.net> wrote in article
> <5gq8r9$t3g@news3.texas.net>...
> >
> > I am not sure, but is WATCO out of business?.  If it is, what
> > "replacement" exists for their Danish Oil?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > BYE, William
> > wquiles@texas.net
> >
> >
> >
Watco is alive and well.  It is now being manufactured by Flecto
Coatings from Ca.  Most hardware stores now carry it.  They have gone
back to the original British Watco formula.

Henry


From rector@nh.ultranet.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:06 EST 1997
Article: 193404 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rector" <rector@nh.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Motors & voltage
Date: 30 Mar 1997 14:07:59 GMT
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Hi:

I'm looking at a used planer and have been told that it has a 220V motor. 
Not sure where they came up with this voltage.....I assume they mean 240V? 
Since my shop is my garage, I don't have it wired for any 240V equipment. 
I know I can always put a 240V outlet in, but I would rather not.  I know
that my radial arm saw and my table saw can be wired for either voltage
(120 or 240V).  Should I assume that this 240V Bellsaw planer can also be
run at 120V?  How can I tell by looking at the motor?

Thanks,
Bill


From chizuko@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:07:07 EST 1997
Article: 193405 of rec.woodworking
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From: Cornelius Mark Bolinger <chizuko@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grizzly 12" Planer
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:02:02 -0800
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I would appreciate comments from owners on the Grizzly 12" planer,
G1017.  It got a decent review in American Woodworker.  Thanks in
advance.



From rtollan@asiaonline.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:08 EST 1997
Article: 193406 of rec.woodworking
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From: Richard TOLLAN <rtollan@asiaonline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: plans for chest
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:23:28 -0800
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Newcomer to woodwork (and the internet!) looking for straightforward
plans for a general utility type chest (storage of tools, perhaps). Any
ideas? 

Rich


From rman4443@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:09 EST 1997
Article: 193407 of rec.woodworking
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From: rman4443@aol.com (RMAN4443)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for coffee table plans
Date: 30 Mar 1997 14:55:57 GMT
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American Woodworker,and Popular Woodworking magazines both have plans for
a glass topped "display"coffee table.I'm not sure on issue #'s,but i built
a mixed version of the two as a christmas gift,and it came out so
nice,that I had a hard time giving it away!I'm in the process now of
building one for myself,only this one is black walnut as opposed to the
hard/bird's eye maple of the last.

                                                                  Rick


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:09 EST 1997
Article: 193408 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 15:53:31 GMT
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L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net> wrote:

>Robert,
>I've selected the Milwaukee, Super Sawzall.  Cuts through anything, runs
>smooth.  I'm very satisfied with it.
>Larry

The Milwaukee is one of the all-time favorites.  My own choice is the Bosch
Panther, however.  The Panther has settings that provide both the in-line
action of the Milwaukee, but also several degrees of orbital action to better
clear wood chips on thicker work.  It certainly has adequate power, and seems
to fit my hands.

FWIW- I have a "table" in my own shop, off to one corner.  The table is
extremely heavy and sturdy, being made of bracketed  4X4 legs and frame, with
a doubled 3/4" top.  On one corner of this table is my big vice with an anvil
top.  (Other corners have a spindle sander, bench grinder etc,)

Most of the time, I keep my Bosch Panter hanging on the shaft of a 3/8" X 6"
lag bolt that is partially driven into the leg of the table.  The saw is
plugged into one of the many outlets both on the legs and under the table.
I've found that when I use the Bosch recip. saw, that it is frequently used to
cut angle iron, pipe or flat iron held in the vice, using a bimetal blade.
The convenience of having it "ready' on an instant notice insures that I won't
have to tire myself with something as old-fashioned and primative as a hack
saw. <grin>

Tom
Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:10 EST 1997
Article: 193409 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing cypress
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 15:57:50 GMT
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Cypress is very oily and getting any finish to dry is a problem.  LA is well
known for its humidity, as I recall.  My advice is PATIENCE.  Now that you've
coated the tables with the thinned finish, I'd just put them aside and check
them in a few weeks.  Subsequent coats of finish will do better, since the
wood will have alread been sealed.  Bringing the table inside to a slightly
dryer air would help also.  Placing them outdoors in the sun could help as
well.  

Just wait- it won't stay sticky forever.

Tom


Adrien Delbasty <adrien@STARGAZER.NET> wrote:

>Help, Please
>My son built two cypress end tables and asked me to finish them for him.
>He wanted me to use sanding sealer, then satin polyurethane varnish.  I
>read in one article not to use sanding sealer, but rather thin varnish 50%
>for the first coat, then  gloss varnish for build coats, then satin for
>finish coat.  I used the thinned coat of varnish, put tables aside to dry,
>and now two days later they still have not dried.  My son said that is why
>he wanted me to use the sanding sealer.  He said varnished cypress is very
>hard to dry without sanding sealer.
>HELP, what do I do now, any comments????
>Thanks
>PS Live in south Louisiana where humidity is higher than temperature!!!!!

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From derricot@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:11 EST 1997
Article: 193410 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Derricott <derricot@bellatlantic.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: motor hp
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:07:10 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193410

Kevin:
I have the same saw and was considering replacing the motor a couple of
years ago but tried a couple of alternatives that worked. First I threw
away my old Craftsman blades and bought a new Forest WWII. Next I
reconnected the motor for 230 volts. This cuts the current in half which
also cuts the voltage drop in your house wiring system in half. Better
voltage gives you better horsepower. I next used a compressor and blew
out the sawdust that had accumulated over the years (a lot) This let the
motor run cooler. I also installed two new belts on the saw which cut
down on the vibration and allowed more power transfer. That 1 HP motor
has more power than some of the 2 HP motors sold today because it was
made before they started rating tool motors with "developed horsepower". 
Now the saw doesn't bogg down during a 45 deg. cut on 8/4 oak.

Good luck, John

Kevin Duff wrote:
> 
> I have an old 50's Craftsman table saw. Everything works peachy except
> that it has only a 1 hp motor. It bogs down when I cut thick stock or
> have the arbor tilted to more than 20 degrees. Is it worth the $200 or
> so for a 2 hp motor????? Ant email responses would be appreciated!


From efleblanc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:12 EST 1997
Article: 193411 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward LeBlanc" <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Motors & voltage
Date: 30 Mar 1997 16:23:06 GMT
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Rector <rector@nh.ultranet.com> wrote in article
<01bc3d13$cc9ac7e0$08b8b4cf@default>...
> Hi:
> 
> I'm looking at a used planer and have been told that it has a 220V motor.

> Not sure where they came up with this voltage.....I assume they mean
240V? 

The motor may be 220 V, but it is more likely to be 230 V.  230 V is a
common nameplate rating for American made motors.  These motors are made to
run an a circuit with a nominal voltage of 240 V.  The difference is to
compensate for voltage drop on the line.  The motor can be run at voltages
as high as 10% above the nameplate rating.

> Since my shop is my garage, I don't have it wired for any 240V equipment.

> I know I can always put a 240V outlet in, but I would rather not.  I know
> that my radial arm saw and my table saw can be wired for either voltage
> (120 or 240V).  Should I assume that this 240V Bellsaw planer can also be
> run at 120V?  

No, do not assume that the planer can be wired for 120 V operation.  You do
not say how much HP the motor is rated at, but stationary (not the little
Delta, Ryobi, Makita, etc.) planers tend to be equipped with 3 HP or larger
motors that cannot be wired for 120 V operation.

>How can I tell by looking at the motor?

You can tell by looking at the motor nameplate.  The nameplate will give
all voltage ratings, e.g., 115/230V.  There should also be instructions for
reconnecting the windings for high/low voltage operation on the motor,
either on the nameplate or inside the connection box on the motor.

Even if you can rewire the motor for 120 V operation, be sure to verify
that the wiring to the motor is capable of carrying the higher current
required by the lower voltage operation.  If the motor is a dual-voltage
motor, it will also have two current ratings, e.g. FLA 30/15.  This means
that at 115 V operation the motor will draw 30 amps at full load (FLA =
full load amperes).

Hope this helps you.

Regards,

Ed
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> 


From glenn.seaman@televault.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:12 EST 1997
Article: 193412 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Glenn Seaman" <glenn.seaman@televault.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hardwoods in St Pete,FL area
Date: 30 Mar 1997 15:39:17 GMT
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Check out Weiss Hardwoods on 126th Street in Largo. It is just south of
Ulmerton off of Belcher. I have bought hardwoods from them several times
and have always been happy with the results. They are a full mill shop and
can mill you anything you want. They also have a cut off bin where you can
get small quanities of hardwoods without paying the minimum milling charge.


If you go, also check out the beautiful woodworking bench made by one of
the local woodworking clubs. It is one fine piece of work!

                                                                   Glenn


P. Fernandes <gator@atlantic.net> wrote in article
<5hhk5m$o05@news.atlantic.net>...
> I would like to find a good source for wood in the St Petersburg, FL
> area. If anyone knows of a place, Please post it here
> 
> 
> 
>                                                    Thanks           
>                                                                  Gator
> 
> 
> 


From marky@up.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:14 EST 1997
Article: 193413 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Young <marky@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Reliant air stapler parts needed
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:15:04 -0600
Organization: Flat Earth Society/Folksingers International
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Anyone know where my friend can get a replacement trigger for a reliant
stapler (used for putting lauan & subfloor/sheathing down).

Thanks for any tips.

marky@up.net

--
Mark Young
newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address

marky@up.net
acoustic@up.net



From ba622@yfn.ysu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:07:14 EST 1997
Article: 193414 of rec.woodworking
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From: ba622@yfn.ysu.edu (Chuck Hamner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:03:50 GMT
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>Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
>after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade with pliers
>I can't get the nut loose.
>

Remember that the arbor nut turns backwards - or in the same direction as the
teeth point on the blade - to loosen. Just a thought, it's easy to get reversed
on a miter saw.
-- 


From cring@concentric.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:15 EST 1997
Article: 193415 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for chest
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:13:19 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
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Richard TOLLAN wrote:
> 
> Newcomer to woodwork (and the internet!) looking for straightforward
> plans for a general utility type chest (storage of tools, perhaps). Any
> ideas?
> 
> Rich

Rich,
You might want to go here:
http://www.theoak.com/gary/
-- 
C.E.(Chuck) Ring
Madera Encantada (Enchanted Wood)
http://theoak.com/chuck/index.html
http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html



From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:16 EST 1997
Article: 193416 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:21:43 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <333ec94a.47371988@news.bright.net>
References: <332B3146.6F5A@erols.com> <4322163@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <N.032897.164419.25@bmt.net> <333C6F2E.3210@easyway.net>
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We were having some construction done where I work and I noticed they
were using Porter-Cable and Milwaukee reciprocating saws. Since I was
planning on getting one, I figured these guys would know from
experience what would be a good one. 

I asked some of them and they said the Porter-Cable was good and the
Milwaukee was the one they would recommend.

their two cent

Al


From jbecker@indy1.calarts.edu Wed Apr  2 12:07:17 EST 1997
Article: 193417 of rec.woodworking
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From: jbecker@indy1.calarts.edu (Becker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Request from an Artist
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:23:16 -0800
Organization: Wood Panelling Info Request
Lines: 12
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Can anyone out there think of films, books commercials or just about
anything that has occured in front of wood panelling?  Or do you know of
places with wood panelling in the area where you live?  

I am in the midst of trying to research and or find as many of these
"places" as possible for my next
film project.  

I know this might sound absurd, but my research is indeed for real.  If
you think of something will you please let me know?

Please e-mail me directly.  Thanks in advance for your help.


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:18 EST 1997
Article: 193418 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hock blades
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:28:04 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
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I have noticed mention of Hock blades for hand planes several times
but haven't seen anyone mention his web page. It's worth checking out.

www.mcn.org/a/rhock/hockhome.htm

Al


From pp01025@ppp.kcc.edu Wed Apr  2 12:07:19 EST 1997
Article: 193419 of rec.woodworking
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From: Keith Bays <pp01025@ppp.kcc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 12:12:01 -0800
Organization: Kentucky Christian College, Grayson, KY USA
Lines: 49
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Christopher Raymond wrote:
> 
> David Brooks wrote:
> >
> > ROBMURR wrote:
> > >
> > > I want to purchase a Jet or Delta contractor saw. I need to know
> > > if either of these will run OK on a 20 amp curcuit. Nothing else is
> > > on this curcuit in the garage and I would like to use it or should I
> > > increase it to 30 amps?This would be on 115volts. My 100amp
> > > breaker box is full already...what is my least expensive and least
> > > extensive solution? thanks!
> >
> > Delta has a clever dual capacitor motor that develops more
> > HP for the watt than  the normal motor found on the jet.
> > If you wire up new power, a 20a breaker would be fine, i would however
> > wire it with 10g wire. the voltage drop on a normal 12 or 14 guage
> > wire is significant.
> > BTW most electrical panel manufacturers have dual breakers that
> > fit in one knockout. Pull out a single breaker and replace it
> > with a dual. do not confuse with a 220 dual that takes up two
> > knockouts.  ITE and SquareD make them fer sure. SquareD is about
> > $28 but is cheaper than new panel.
> > Sub panel idea is good but i wouldnt do it to get 2 more circuits.
> > db
> 
> It's a 1.5 hp motor, right?  A 20 amp circuit is fine, and 12 guage wire
> is plenty.  10 guage wire is pretty horrible to work with (stiff), and
> it won't fit under the screw heads on a normal outlet anyway.  Even if
> you could make it fit, it would probably violate the electric code to
> use 10 guage wire on a 110V outlet, which is designed for 12 or 14
> guage.
> 
> If you already have a (properly wired) dedicated 20 amp circuit, you're
> all set!
> 
> Chris
> 
> p.s.  I'm guessing here, but I think the dual capacitor motor is only
> helpful for startup - the caps are switched out of the circuit once the
> motor is up to speed.  Anybody know for sure?
I haven't seen the motor in question in person , but I do know that the
reason for a capacitor is for a quick surge of power to start the
motor.  Dual capacitors allow an extra boost to start the motors, but
after the motor is running the capacitors don't come into play.  If you
have had motors with bad capacitors they will humm but not start,
usually you can give them a boost by manually turning the arbor to start
them.



From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:20 EST 1997
Article: 193420 of rec.woodworking
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From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wormdrive saw?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:58:53 -0500
Organization: Easyway Communication Inc.
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Hey all,
Hoping that someone can help me with this one;  I'm looking for a new
circular saw & have run across a worm drive, or hypoid drive for makita,
& was wondering what make this saw so different from the standard type
that's pretty common to all manufacturers.  What makes it better or
worse? etc?  Any input would help, no spam please.  Thanks in advance.
Larry


From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:20 EST 1997
Article: 193421 of rec.woodworking
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From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good jig saws?????
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:52:28 -0500
Organization: Easyway Communication Inc.
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BOSCH! Suggest 1587 or 1584, depending if you prefer top or barrel grip,
respectively.  Price is in the neighborhood of the DeWalt.  You won't be
disappointed.
Larry

Jay Sultan wrote:
> 
> Mark Stamp wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a good jig saw? I was considering
> > the Dewalt DW321k (about $168, mail order). Any suggestions
> > in this price range would be most welcome. Thanks.
> >
> > Mark Stamp
> 
> I shopped for a while.  IMnotsoHO, the only choice is the Bosch 1587VS.
> 
> There is a lot I like about this (I had a Craftsman that really stank)
> but I was convinced when I saw a rep at the trade show turn on the saw,
> swing it down onto a sheet of 3/8 plywood (without a hole started) and
> watched the saw lance straight through the wood and start cutting.


From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:21 EST 1997
Article: 193422 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Powermatic 66 TS advice?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:32:09 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
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I've noticed an interesting "feature" of my Powermatic 66 tablesaw and
am wondering if any other 66 owners experience the same thing.

When I raise the blade, it moves slightly to the left. When I lower it,
it moves back toward the right. The blade is set to vertical, and a look
at the trunnion doesn't suggest any reason why this is happening. The
total lateral movement is about .020 over the range of blade height. As
a result, the slots of sliding tables and jigs get enlarged as I use
them with different blade heights.

Any ideas would sure be appreciated.

Phil



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:22 EST 1997
Article: 193423 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The best deal on a Sears table saw .you will not find a better deal
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 17:58:17 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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Bob Wingard <"B.Wingard@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

;Al Taylor wrote:
;> 
;> On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:33:03 GMT, mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael
;> John Hide) wrote:
;> 
;> >I was fortunate to get a super deal on a delta Unisaw recently .it
has
;> >been restored and is now in working order .It replaces a very old
good
;> >
;> >Sears tablesaw,that I have used in my shop for the last 15 plus
years
;> >Even as late as last week I was cutting 1/16"strips consistently
on
;> >it ,this is with a bessimier fence which is now on the Unisaw .
;> space
;> 
;> >As I was originally given this saw ,I am offering the same to any
one
;> >on this group .It would be nice if it was someone who is starting
out
;> >who got it ,nevertheless I am afraid it is going to be first come
;> >first served . As i do this for a living I will be happy to help
load
;> >it but I am afraid thats going to be about it .
;> cut
;> 
;> >                   mjh
;> >
;> 
;> Way to go Michael, now that's the way to do it! I'm sure that there
is
;> someone out there that will be grateful for such generosity.
;> 
;> Al
;I know somebody who would very much be interested in your generosity


From davet@proaxis.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:23 EST 1997
Article: 193424 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Opinion on Grizzley 6" Jointer wanted
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:29:06 GMT
Organization: ProAxis Communications, Inc.
Lines: 6
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193424

I have been pleased with the 6" jointer.  Seems very sturdy, 
easy to adjust, and has given good service.  I used an old 4" 
Craftsman previously which was also satisfactory.  I haven't 
used or seen operation of any other brands so I can't compare 
if the Delta is significantly better.



From davet@proaxis.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:25 EST 1997
Article: 193425 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for Stickley Morris Chair?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:25:56 GMT
Organization: ProAxis Communications, Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193425

There's a dimensioned drawing of a Morris chair in"Mission 
Furniture: How to Make It", Dover Pub., 1980, pp 18-22, ISBN 
0-486-23966-7.  This is a reprint of Popular Mechanics 
handbooks from 1909-1912.



From davet@proaxis.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:26 EST 1997
Article: 193426 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly 12" Planer
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:30:24 GMT
Organization: ProAxis Communications, Inc.
Lines: 4
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I purchased a Grizzly 12" planer and also have a Delta 12".  
The Grizzly seems a little beefier but both do an excellent 
job.



From kriss@wrq.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:27 EST 1997
Article: 193427 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kris Macy <kriss@wrq.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need good doghouse plans
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:20:06 -0800
Organization: WRQ Inc.  Seattle, WA
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I need some good plans for a doghouse for my  two Dalmation/Black lab
mix dogs.  They weigh about 40 lbs, so the house doesn't need to be that
big.  Any info will help.  Thanks in advance.  Kris

Copy of first message, correct return adress this time.


From krism78838@alo.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:28 EST 1997
Article: 193428 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kris Macy <krism78838@alo.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need plans for a doghouse.
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 21:12:02 -0800
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I need some good plans for a doghouse for my  two Dalmation/Black lab
mix dogs.  They weigh about 40 lbs, so the house doesn't need to be that
big.  Any info will help.  Thanks in advance.  Kris


From lance@txdirect.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:29 EST 1997
Article: 193429 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dane Lance" <lance@txdirect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 30 Mar 1997 18:11:05 GMT
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	I wish to start up a small shop in my garage and need some help
deciding which tools (power and hand) that I need.  My work will most likely
be with pine and some hardwood.  I don't plan on making large furniture type
items in the near future, rather things like child's pull toys, small tables,
chairs, racks, wall mounted gun racks, etc.  
	I have about $2,500-$3,000 on hand to make my initial purchases.  Sandpaper,
clamps, glue, finishes, etc will be purchased on an as-needed basis.  I'm
looking mainly for suggestions on the power tools and hand tools to get
started.  
	From some very basic shopping around, it appears that I'm going to have to go
with smaller, benchtop tools where I can.  I may spend the extra money for a
full size table saw and drill press, but table-top for the rest.
	Which brands of tool's should I avoid?  Are Craftsman tools any good?  Ryobi,
Delta, Dewalt?  Should I get a planer/jointer or should I use a router table
with a straight bit?
	I already have a Porter-Cable plunge router (never used..ha!) and some other,
basic tools (hand drill, circular saw, orbital sander).

	Any info/help would be greatly appreciated...

	please e-mail me at:

		lance@txdirect.net


			Thanks
      


From almillikan@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:30 EST 1997
Article: 193430 of rec.woodworking
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From: almillikan@aol.com (ALMILLIKAN)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 18:15:51 GMT
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For painted chairs (and most of the originals were painted, e.g. "Topnotch
green) poplar is good: reasonably stable, takes paint well and modest in
price. Al Millikan



From ddawes@moscow.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:31 EST 1997
Article: 193431 of rec.woodworking
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From: ddawes@moscow.com (Dana Dawes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 18:21:06 GMT
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In article <333CA15F.1DC4@wfu.edu>, sinclair@wfu.edu says...



>If you need to do detail sanding, I would recommend spending the money
>for the Fein -- none of the other brands that I've seen or used are in
>the same league.

Qowning both, I agree with you totally.  I also tried the Ryobi, but gave 
it away to the woodshop at the local Architecture school (my way of 
getting eve with the budding architects).

Some of my colleagues think that the saw blade for the Fein is the best 
thing since shirt pockets.  After borrowing their blades for about a 
year, I finally broke down and got one of my own.  I still use it a lot 
as a sander, but the saw certainly is worth the price.

Dana Dawes
Paintcraft
ddawes@moscow.com



From jglassco@indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:07:32 EST 1997
Article: 193432 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Glasscock <jglassco@indiana.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: MADE IN USA -- does anybody care?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:25:54 -0500
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I care a great deal.  I am putting together a showcase house project 
where every possible component is Made in USA, and the tools, too, 
must be Made in USA.  There will be a website in the next few days to 
announce and illustrate the project.  I'll post the url when I get the 
website up.
-- 
Made with Macintosh•         100% Microsoft Free!
John Glasscock    at   Indiana University
mailto:jglassco@indiana.edu    Fight Back Against Spammers
$1000 charge to accept unsolicited commercial messages


From jneuman@cpuinc.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:33 EST 1997
Article: 193433 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 12:21:09 -0600
From: jneuman@cpuinc.net
Subject: Day bed plans
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859745777.127@dejanews.com>
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I am looking for plans and mechanisims for day bed or trundle beds.
Please email me if you can help.  Thanks!!!

Jim Neuman

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ptwoods@iafrica.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:34 EST 1997
Article: 193434 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Peter Tennant Woods" <ptwoods@iafrica.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: routers
Date: 30 Mar 1997 18:47:29 GMT
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Hi

I would like to know if anyone knows any good links to router pages where I
could find infomation on routers?

I a thinking of purchasing a router and would like to ask a few questions

1.What size chuck(collet)should I get 1/2" or 1/4"?
2.What is the best make to purchase?
3How versatile are routers actualy? I have heard that they are one of the
most versitile machines for the home workshop.

Any help or input would be greatly appriciated
Thanks
Richard Woods
 


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:35 EST 1997
Article: 193435 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UNIVERSAL PLANER GAGE
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:55:00 GMT
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I am seeking information re:WILLIAM H.FIELD CO.INC.
The last address I have for them is in Braintree,Mass..
They made a gage for setting all manner of knives etc..
On all types of woodworking machinery.
Yes I an quite aware that a DI will do the same thing but I wish to 
contact this particular co. Thank You....


From dmacken@fia.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:36 EST 1997
Article: 193436 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David M." <dmacken@fia.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Please help ray@oakharbor.net Email problem
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:50:40 -0800
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SOmething *IS* wrong with your email.
I tried to respond to your message about not getting mail from your
daughter and MY mail was returned as undeliverable to the address in
this messages subject line.

Drop me a note at my email address for me to reply too. My mail wont
till you have made some changes though. Something is wrong with your
setup. If you are using NETSCAPE go to.

OPTIONS
MAIL and NEWS PREFERANCES
IDENTITY
and check that all is correct there.
make sure all areas of MAIL and NEWS PREFERANCES are CORRECT



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:37 EST 1997
Article: 193437 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Chemical safety: Used to be Re: Touching up Streaking?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:57:29 -0500
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I am sure that your warnings are appreciated by all (even me, but as you
read on you may forget to be mindful of that). However, your message
lacks balance.

You cannot do the kind of repair to finishes without using some
dangerous chemicals. I wonder if you post the same obvious warnings to
those who want to use a bandsaw, or a dremel, or any hand tool for that
matter?

Res ipsa loquitar -- the thing speaks for itself. Maybe we should all
cower under a rock if we cannot find a cave to hide in. I would venture
a bet that when you apply your nail polish that you do not read the list
of ingredients, namely the lovely ketone you are so afraid of. 

Is it very nasty? Compared to what? It is a dangerous chemical. The
amount that one might come in conatct with is certainly not enough to
cause his cells to start to mutate or to replictae in some uncontrolled
fashion in the form of cancer. It takes a lot to get mice to do this!
This is not carbon tetrachloride we are talking about -- a miracle
degreaser (which is quite dangerous and a proven cause of cancer). This
is not some radon gas or radioactve isotope. This is not asbestas (the
only known cause of mesothelioma, atype of lung cancer). It is a simple
compound that is already in your nail polish and in my lacquer. All I
was suggesting is that it will make reduce the viscosity of the lacquer
if only a little more of it were added, so that the touch up will not be
too heavy-bodied.

Perhaps I should have suggested acetone. (Do you know that when we
urinate, we eliminate from our bodies small amounts of acetone?) Acetone
is more flamable than MEK.

I think that grown adults (it is not always a repetition of words to use
"grown" and "adult" together) know how to take precautions. Not only
that, most of us schmucks who work with this great smelling crap know
what we are up against. So let's see all the obvious warnings that you
are going to post on the use of hand tools. And let's see the less
obvious warnings and more significant dangers on the exposures to wood
dust (another proven carcinogen) that should want to  warn us about.

There was a whole thread on MANY of the dangers of "Hazards in the
Workplace", chemical and mechanical. It is too bad that you changed the
subject name so that it could not be threaded with the original
question, and my detailed answer so that there would at least be some
better context to your contribution, than the very snipped quotation
that you provided.
 
No one is trivializing the dangers involved in the finishing trade. But
your concern is off-base, and, I suspect an AlGore corruption (remember
his silly book on the enviroment that he made money on?).

JaneAustin wrote:
> 
> When you say 'MEK', I assume you're referring to Methyl ethyl ketone?
> While I don't have the hazard data here, if memory serves me correctly,
> this is very nasty stuff.
> 
> I don't want to be a bore on the subject of chemical safety, but with all
> the highly toxic chemicals mentioned in this forum lately, someone is
> bound to try to use them and injure themselves because they're not fully
> aware of its potential dangers.
> 
> When you buy/use any of these chemicals, REALLY read the warnings. They're
> not just there for the chemicals company's legal protection (although that
> is a major reason).  They're also there to help you protect yourself. A
> lawsuit is not going to bring you back your eyesight, restore your
> scorched lungs, or eliminate cancers.
> 
> There have been countless posts regarding blades guards, but so few on
> chemical safety.

> >Subject: Re: Touching up Streaking?
> >From: shafner@webspam.net
> >Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 22:25:56 -0500
> >Message-ID: <333DDD40.5A87@webspam.net>
> 
> >reduce it's viscosity with MEK, and brush it on in LONG, THIN,  and
> >LIGHT brush strokes, imparting color to the "streak". The trick is in

-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel


From e320s@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:37 EST 1997
Article: 193438 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Nappi <e320s@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch router: bit too tight?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:29:05 GMT
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>DON'T pry out the bits! You need to keep unscrewing the collet nut. 
>After you feel the nut 'break free', KEEP turning maybe another turn or
>two.  This will eject the bit quite nicely. It should just fall out of
>the collet.
>
>-- Dan in Phoenix

Have same problems as above with my #1606. I've found the way that works
best for me is to unscrew collet nut all the way. Then place thin piece of
wood (I use my pushstick when I can find it) against nut and tap with the
wrench that loosens it. This normally pops collet and bit out in one shot.
It also protects the bit from pressure of screwdriver method. I do it above
my workbench so bit doesn't fall too far.

While I'm on the topic of my Bosch 1606... The #93905 table is IMHO a
worthless piece of poop. Lack of soft start on #1606 combined with external
threading instantly undoes any measurement I just made. When mounted upside
down the torque of startup moves router. The moving router tends to move
floorward. 1/2 inch dados tend to end up as 1/16 dados if you get my drift. 

Very annoying. So annoying that I went out and bought a plunge router. Wide
stance of D-handle on 1606 made me buy but wish I had internal adjustment
threads like on Porter Cable. This router is great above table I love it.
Pain in the butt under table and I wish I hadn't spent $120 for table
mount to find this out.  


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:38 EST 1997
Article: 193439 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UNIVERSAL PLANER GAGE
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:57:37 GMT
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Re;above blasted program!
Remove X to reply


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:39 EST 1997
Article: 193440 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: American Woodworker Router Table
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:15:34 GMT
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I use a Ryobi that does this and while looking noted that most do the
same thing.  When used in the table you simply move to the height you
need and then lock and while free routing you use your spacer and rout
to the depth set.

Verne

On 26 Mar 1997 17:05:07 GMT, boneified@aol.com (Boneified) wrote:

>Hi y'all,
>
>I fear this may have been asked & answered, however can anyone suggest a
>2.5hp or higher plunge router "with a plunge lock that can remain in the
>unlocked position" as the article indicates?
>
>Thanks!!!!
>
>Jerry

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From mam@unixg.ubc.ca Wed Apr  2 12:07:40 EST 1997
Article: 193441 of rec.woodworking
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From: "M.A. Martin" <mam@unixg.ubc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dewalt radial arm parts
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:01:30 -0700
Organization: The University of British Columbia
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To: just for fun <doakley@netusa1.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193441

just for fun wrote:
> 
> I have a old 1950's Dewalt radial arm saw and need information on
> where to get parts. It's need a new motor. The local electric motor
> shop is trying to find parts, but no luck yet. It's a model GWI.
> If anyone could help, thanks!
> 
> email at goakley@juno.com

There's a company called Wolfe machinery who has a website - they stock
all of the old DeWalt parts.   If I remember correctly their asking
price for a GWI motor was something around $600 last time I checked (and
I'm not sure if that is for the motor alone or with trade in, please
check with them for the correct price).  You can buy the entire saw from
them for $1000.00.

	I just had my GWI motor rebuilt - new windings, bearings, switch, solid
state solenoid, capacitor, paint etc. by a company in Edmonton,
Alberta.   They did an excellent job - and it cost $400 Cdn (which is
about $290.00 US.  I think their name is Universal Rewind.   If you like
I can post their phone number.  Speak to Lowell.

	I'm still in the process of restoring my GWI and I'm looking for a shop
that can paint it. 


							M.A. Martin

P.S. there's also a fellow named Wally Kunkel who sells a book on old
DeWalts.   He has a website as well, and has been very helpful.   I
intend to buy his book after I finish restoring my saw!


From Redfield@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:41 EST 1997
Article: 193442 of rec.woodworking
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From: Redfield <Redfield@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bending plywood for furniture?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:04:19 -0800
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Fine Woodworking from Tuanton Press has a series of "Fine Woodworking On
(various subjects). One of the titles is On Bending Wood. It has many
useful techniques, tips and tools. Books on boatbuilding usually will
cover the subjects also.


From jvreeland@mho.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:42 EST 1997
Article: 193443 of rec.woodworking
From: "John Vreeland" <jvreeland@mho.net>
Subject: Re: Delta table saw problem
References: <333E0F99.BB1@osu.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193443

The instructions that came with my 34-444 say to use the block of wood in
front of the blade to hold it while loosening the nut.  The came with only
one wrench for the nut.  The part number is: 1087708.  Your model would
probably use same wrench.


Clifford A. Collins <collins+@osu.edu> wrote in article
<333E0F99.BB1@osu.edu>...
> My brother-in-law gave me his Delta Contractor saw (34-445) when he
> received delivery on his General cabinet saw. However, it was missing
> a few parts. So, like a good purest, I ordered them through an
> authorized Delta distributor.
> 
> Two of the missing items were the wrenches for changing the blade
> on the saw. One is to hold the arbor from rotating and the other is
> for loosening the retainer nut. Problem: there is not enough
> clearance between the arbor casting that holds the arbor bearings
> and the cupped washer that clamps against the saw blade to allow
> the wrench access to the arbor. See low-tech artwork below.
>snip


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:42 EST 1997
Article: 193444 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good jig saws?????
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:17:25 GMT
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L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net> wrote:

Something that is seldom discussed about the Bosch jigsaws is that they take a
proprietay blade.  Where most jigsaws have a blade that fits upward into the
shaft and is held in place with a fore-aft and side-side allen screw, the
Bosch blade is inserted at right angles to the shaft and then rotated 90
degrees into position.  A screw is then tightened down through a hole in the
top of the jigsaw to set the blade in place.

Having both a "conventional" and a Bosch jigsaw, I can compare the two as I
work in the shop.  IMHO, the Bosch wins "hands down" on both the quality of
its proprietary blades and on the ease of changing them.  The true test is
whether I grab the Bosch or the Skil when I have to cut a curved line- as when
cutting the arm on a Jake's Chair.  I suspect that the Bosch gets 85% of the
use in my shop and I REALLY appreciate the thicker and thus less flexible
blades.  

Tom
Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From e320s@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:43 EST 1997
Article: 193445 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Nappi <e320s@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mikita Tablesaw "System"
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:55:28 GMT
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,
>I don't think you can find a better saw for $500, or even $700 for that
>matter.  Check out the current issue of American Woodworking for a
>review of saws in this price/performance category.
>
>-=Paul Worth=-
>pworth@valdosta.edu

	Actually for $529 I think the Jet is better.

	It (the Jet) has a miter guage!!!! a miter guage supports feather
boards!!! and tenoning jigs!!! And it has a big arbor that supports a dado
blade!!! without bending the arbor!!! and you can put a full kerf blade on
it!!! And it has a rated horsepower not amps motor. Cutting 2" maple is no
big trick putting a 1/2 by 1/2 dado in maple is.

	FYI I own a Delta but the Delta costs $600 not $500 so I left it out
of competition. Listen to the salesman BT-3000 is beginner saw. In a couple
of years you'll want to do more than BT can do. I know two people who have
and they both want to upgrade.

	Mark


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:44 EST 1997
Article: 193446 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Powermatic 66 TS advice?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:26:56 GMT
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I couldn't even guess at why this would happen and went to my own PM66 just
now.  There is absolutely NO variation in the blade's lateral relationship to
the sides of the saw through its full range.  

Here are some thoughts-

Is the blade warped or the shaft bent?

Is there some crud between the blade and the washer that is cocking the blade?

Is the table parallel to the spindle? 

Has a trunion bearing been trashed?

One of the "sacred" things in a TS is that the blade is at right angles to the
top and retains its position despite being adjusted up or down.  

Tom

FWIW- you might read my review of Ed Bennet's Table Saw Aligning tool in my
ftp site.

ftp://ftp.mindspring.com/pub/users/scoundrl         ftp_anno.txt is the index
file.

Tom

Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net> wrote:

>I've noticed an interesting "feature" of my Powermatic 66 tablesaw and
>am wondering if any other 66 owners experience the same thing.

>When I raise the blade, it moves slightly to the left. When I lower it,
>it moves back toward the right. The blade is set to vertical, and a look
>at the trunnion doesn't suggest any reason why this is happening. The
>total lateral movement is about .020 over the range of blade height. As
>a result, the slots of sliding tables and jigs get enlarged as I use
>them with different blade heights.

>Any ideas would sure be appreciated.

>Phil


Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From e320s@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:45 EST 1997
Article: 193447 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
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When mixed with sanding sealer to "goopyness". Not watery not to stiff. It
makes an excellent and cheap wood putty. If you use saw or sanding dust from
same piece of wood to putty it you don't have to worry about color. The best
part is you don't stand in paint aisle at store looking dazed and despondent.

 


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:46 EST 1997
Article: 193448 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:30:03 GMT
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Al- I've also had folks report that they've built the Jake's Chair out of
YELLOW PINE (for painting) and that it works very well.  Yellow Pine is one of
the hardest pines and seems to hold up well to weathering, although I'd
personally go with Juniper, Cypress or Redwood for an unfinished outdoor
incarnation of the chair.  Another decent wood is fir, since it can be found
without knots in most lumber yards.

Tom

almillikan@aol.com (ALMILLIKAN) wrote:

>For painted chairs (and most of the originals were painted, e.g. "Topnotch
>green) poplar is good: reasonably stable, takes paint well and modest in
>price. Al Millikan


Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:47 EST 1997
Article: 193449 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tablesaws how much amperage?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:35:42 GMT
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Keith Bays <pp01025@ppp.kcc.edu> wrote:

>> > >
>> > > I want to purchase a Jet or Delta contractor saw. I need to know
>> > > if either of these will run OK on a 20 amp curcuit. Nothing else is
>> > > on this curcuit in the garage and I would like to use it or should I
>> > > increase it to 30 amps?This would be on 115volts. My 100amp
>> > > breaker box is full already...what is my least expensive and least
>> > > extensive solution? thanks!
>> >

A dedicated 20 amp circuit would do just fine for the saw- providing that
there isn't too much line loss between your house and the garage.

Something to consider is to take out a couple (vertically) adjoining breakers
in the box and install a 60 amp 240 volt breaker in their place.  A short run
of #6 wire over to a new "load center" would give you a fresh supply of
breaker slots for expansion, including 240 volt circuits. 

A "load center" or "distribution panel" is just like the box you already have,
but doesn't have a MAIN breaker.  Instead, it acts as any other load or item,
but distributes the power instead of just consuming it.  They are very
inexpensive- such as about $20 for a ten breaker load center capable of
handling up to 100 amps.  Then, as a need arises for more tools, just break
out one or two of the cover knockouts and add a new breaker.

Tom
Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:47 EST 1997
Article: 193450 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: GOOD SANDERS
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:36:39 -0500
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Does any one know what brand of tool makers makes the best kind of disc
sander 
please send what you think to ebender@erol.com


From ericn@spiritone.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:48 EST 1997
Article: 193451 of rec.woodworking
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From: ericn@spiritone.com (Eric N.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: FREE: Holly wood in Portland OR
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:36:32 -0800
Organization: SpiritOne Internet 503-240-8200
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In article <ericn-2703971715310001@max3-174.spiritone.com>,
ericn@spiritone.com (Eric N.) wrote:

> If there are any woodworkers in the Portland area who would like a couple
> of free holly wood trunks (yes - TRUNKS! - these are old puppies), please
> contact me via e-mail.
> 
> I've heard this wood is prized for its whiteness and as a good material
> for doing inlay work.
> 
> -Eric
> ericn@spiritone.com

Here's some more info on the Holly wood:

#1 -
10.5 feet long, base diameter approx. 4 inches, top diameter 1.5 inches.
This one has been cut and in my basement for 1.5 years. It's a dry
basement and doesn't have great temperature fluctuations.

#2 -
8 feet long, 5.5 feet approx. 10 inches in diameter, top 3.5 feet branches
off into 4 smaller pieces 3-4 inches in diameter.
This one is still alive and in the ground - the top has been lopped off at
the 8 foot level.

Ideally I would like one person to take both - or at least one full trunk.

Let me know if you are interested.

-Eric

-- 
ericn@SpiritOne.com

Toasters? Toasters!:

http://www.spiritone.com/~ericn


From gwilce@lindsaycomp.on.ca Wed Apr  2 12:07:49 EST 1997
Article: 193452 of rec.woodworking
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From: gwilce@lindsaycomp.on.ca (Gary Wilce)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Antiquing hardware (Hinges, screws, etc.)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:18:47 GMT
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Does anyone know how to give an antigue (i.e. old, corroded, darkened)
look to new hinges and srews.  I think there is a mild corrosive that
can be used safely but I'm not sure what it is or how to use it.


From werstln@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:50 EST 1997
Article: 193453 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael Werstlein" <werstln@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Redwood Decking Board Question
Date: 30 Mar 1997 19:59:28 GMT
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Hello,

I am about to put 2X6 redwood decking boards on my deck.  I went to the
local lumber yard and they told me that because of all the moisture content
in the wood that I should put the decking boards on without any space
between
them because the will shrink as they dry out.  I was looking at some of
their
16' 2X6 and they did seem fairly wet, but I ended up getting their 18' 2X6
and
they seemed to be pretty dry.  

So my question is.......should I lay the boards without any space between
them or should I leave a little gap between them?

Also, the type of redwood that I bought was con heart with the code S-DRY
on the end of them.  I am not sure what all of the codes mean.  Also, they
are kiln dried.

Thanks for any help,
Mike Werstlein
werstln@pacbell.net



From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:51 EST 1997
Article: 193454 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: FREE: Holly wood in Portland OR
Date: 30 Mar 1997 20:00:18 GMT
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I don't need any - have my own 70+ year old holly cut down
by our beloved power company. (might grow into their hi-lines).

I've turned Holly - it is great ! - Turns nice and behaves itself
when green.  Very tight and a bit stringy, but does a wonderful job.

What I want to do with my logs is build a tall turned Pirple Martin
house (et. al.)
Multi-stages all fitting together and hung from a strong limb.
Martin
ericn@spiritone.com (Eric N.) wrote:
>In article <ericn-2703971715310001@max3-174.spiritone.com>,
>ericn@spiritone.com (Eric N.) wrote:
>
>> If there are any woodworkers in the Portland area who would like a couple
>> of free holly wood trunks (yes - TRUNKS! - these are old puppies), please
>> contact me via e-mail.
>> 
>> I've heard this wood is prized for its whiteness and as a good material
>> for doing inlay work.
snip...
>Here's some more info on the Holly wood:
>#1 -
>10.5 feet long, base diameter approx. 4 inches, top diameter 1.5 inches.
>This one has been cut and in my basement for 1.5 years. It's a dry
>basement and doesn't have great temperature fluctuations.
>#2 -
>8 feet long, 5.5 feet approx. 10 inches in diameter, top 3.5 feet branches
>off into 4 smaller pieces 3-4 inches in diameter.
>This one is still alive and in the ground - the top has been lopped off at
>the 8 foot level.
>Ideally I would like one person to take both - or at least one full trunk.
>Let me know if you are interested.
>-Eric
   here is where it is :    ericn@SpiritOne.com





From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:52 EST 1997
Article: 193455 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Redwood Decking Board Question
Date: 30 Mar 1997 20:08:10 GMT
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Depends on where you are, and what sunlight is hitting them (also).

In anycase I would leave 1 nail width between boards.
(if they are dry and really dry, the rain will swell them -
 you don't want to have them buckle.)

I have a large deck - most in the sun - and it dries in the summer.
My lower deck, always in the shade, never dried out; and expanded
the nail width - boards touch.  These are on the edge of risk due
to tension.

Martin




From kdbrown@mail.island.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:53 EST 1997
Article: 193456 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Keith D. Brown" <kdbrown@mail.island.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Any problems with Tung oil on bookshelves?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 12:20:16 -0800
Organization: PLD Designs
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I've got this pre-manufactured plywood (with ash? veneer) shelf
that my better half wants to put her cookbooks on, but she is
concerned that an oil finish might be absorbed bby the books.
Any concern? I have both pure and polymerized tung oil available,
I believe that the latter is a better choice, correct?
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Keith D. Brown,  PLD Designs   
   Programmable Logic Device design and programming services. 
   kdbrown@island.net           (or kdbrown@bix.com)
   (250) 390-4205               FAX:(250) 390-4215               <*>
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From jerryg@esslink.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:54 EST 1997
Article: 193457 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerry Glazman <jerryg@esslink.com>
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Subject: Re: radial saw adjustment
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> 
> airway wrote:
> >
> > Folks:
> >
> > Quick question...I have a Craftsman radial arm saw (contr series).   when
> > crosscutting, the advancing portion of the blade cuts cleanly.  However,
> > when the rear end of the blade cuts, it splinters the wood.  I do run the
> > blade through slowly.  Is there an alignment adj that I missed?
> >

Yes, the blade must be perfectly parallel to the saw arm (blade travel).
Otherwise the heel of the blade will not be in same place in the kerf
that the front of the blade has cut.  You should not be seeing the
splinters on both sides of the cut. I am not familiar with the 
Sears RA saw but there should be an adjustment of the carriage (other
than turning the carriage 90 degrees to the saw arm. Move the blade
carrage away from the side that has the splinters.

Check out the Taunton Press video "Radial Arm Saw Joinery" by Curtis
Erpelding. I used it successfully to set up my Dewalt RA saw. Highly
recommend it. The set-up info is worth the money.

Jerry Glazman


From jbobst@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:55 EST 1997
Article: 193458 of rec.woodworking
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From: jbobst@aol.com (JBOBST)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Waterglass (Sodium Si.) for woods fireproofing ?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 20:46:30 GMT
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I remember reading about borax treatments for firewproofing.  Possibly a
note to Underwriters Laboratories in Chicago might shed some light on it.
If you come up with something good, please post.  There probably are some
decent commercial products.


From jbobst@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:56 EST 1997
Article: 193459 of rec.woodworking
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From: jbobst@aol.com (JBOBST)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Please send E-mail
Date: 30 Mar 1997 20:48:19 GMT
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Hope this gets through OK

Joe Bobst


From jerryg@esslink.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:56 EST 1997
Article: 193460 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerry Glazman <jerryg@esslink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Rebate?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 15:38:41 -0500
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Mr. R A. Edwards wrote:
> 
> I recently purchased a Delta bandsaw from Trendlines. There is a $50
> rebate thru Delta on this model but Trendlines,even after my call, has
> failed to send me a rebate form. Does anyone know how I can get one
> thru the internet or a phone # at Delta I might try?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ralph Edwards  FHNJ90A@prodigy.com

Try emailing them through their web site:  http://www.gblinc.com/delta/

Jerry Glazman


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:07:57 EST 1997
Article: 193461 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
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Eastern tamarack was used for ships knees for wooden vessels.
I do not think western tamarack is as good for this purpose. If I am
correct, it possibly relates to rot resistance.
Most west coast vessels I have been on have "grown knees" of Douglas
Fir.
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
Remove X to reply


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:58 EST 1997
Article: 193462 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Log Furniture
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:33:16 GMT
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Have you considered orange shellac?

The Shellac Lemon flakes make an amber color, and the Shellac Orange
flakes an even deeper amber color.
=================================================


On 24 Mar 1997 16:26:01 GMT, "R. M. Suddaby"
<rsuddaby@nofc.forestry.ca> wrote:

>I've just completed my first log furniture project - a queen size headboard
>and footboard
>for my bed.  It was constructed from standing dead (fire-killed) lodgepole
>pine and I am
>now wondering what is the best way to finish the item. I would like to get
>a glowing 
>honey color when I'm done and I was wondering what stains or oils I could
>use to get
>this effect.  Also, should I use any type of sealer or other wood prep? 
>Any advice 
>would be greatly appreciated!
>
>In addition: does any one know of any good information sources for this
>type of
>furniture building, on the internet or otherwise?
>
>Thanks,
>Rod.
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From lcovins@richmond.infi.net Wed Apr  2 12:07:59 EST 1997
Article: 193463 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry Covins <lcovins@richmond.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting Crown Molding on Table Saw
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:26:42 -0800
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Looking for advice/instructions on proper cutting angles and/or
techniques for cutting crown molding on a table saw.  Both inside and
outside corners and non 45 degree corners....


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:00 EST 1997
Article: 193464 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
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Subject: Re: Flux of moisture to and from wood
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In the government documents section of your university library you
will find this information put out by the USDA Forest Products or
Forest Service Lab.

There are difficult tests as the amount of variables to test are
endless.

On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 02:08:35 GMT, pohlig@premier1*.premier.net (Chris)
wrote:

>It is fairly common to find information on the concentration of
>moisture in wood as a function of ambient humidity.  I have not seen
>any writings on how fast moisture moves in and out of wood.  Does
>anyone have any information on the rate of mass transfer of water to
>wood?
>
>Chris 
>



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:01 EST 1997
Article: 193465 of rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
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In article <8D4C39C.0233014B1F.uuout@csoft-net.com> lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD) writes:
>The library is still the best place to get free plans and generally the
>last place anyone looks

I think I've seen you make that assertion before in this group.  YOUR
library may be a good source, but my town library tends to be heavy on
woodworking books from the 60s through 70s, which (for power tools and
jigs & fixtures for same, at any rate) are usually useless.

A few more recent titles are trickling in lately (the NYWS books).  But
I'd guess the bulk of their buying goes to support the latest mystery &
romance best sellers.

Mind, I'm not complaining.  Much <g>.  Yeah, I support them (Friends
Of the Library & all that), and yeah I do suggest titles to them.  But
they only have so much money, which they (rightly, IMO) choose to spend
on what The Public wants.  I just get a little tired hearing that people
asking for help/plans here are subnormal for not finding them at their
local libraries.  --Steve
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:02 EST 1997
Article: 193466 of rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Glue-ups from curly maple: bad idea?
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I'm building a small table for my daughter, using plans from the latest
Woodsmith.  The top will be 19x19" square.  There's a ~6" tall drawer
under the top.  I'd planned to use cherry for the top, and light woods
for the legs & remainder.  I'd planned to use curly maple for the drawer
front and "apron" (sorry, don't know what to call it -- the part of the
table that frames the drawer).

I found a nice 4/4 piece of curly hard maple yesterday.  It has nice
curl from edge to edge.  (I can see why some folks call this "tiger"
maple.)

I'm thinking I might like to reverse the color scheme on the plans,
and use cherry for everything but the top.  That curly maple piece
*could* be glued-up to make the top.  My question is: Will I regret
trying it?  I've never worked with a curly wood before.  I'm warned
that it's very prone to tear out.

The plans call for rounding the top and bevelling the bottom edges
of the top.  I'm a little worried about chip-out.

       ---------------
      (
       \   (edge view of top)
        --------------

Any words of wisdom?  Thanks in advance, --Steve
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From bcompton@news.megalink.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:03 EST 1997
Article: 193467 of rec.woodworking
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From: "bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Northern White Cedar
Date: 30 Mar 1997 22:38:39 GMT
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Has anyone had experience with using Northern white cedar (Thuja
occidentalis).  Does it mill well?  I am considering using it to line a
closet if it can be planed smooth.  Any information would be appreciated.

Bill Compton




From cdub@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:04 EST 1997
Article: 193468 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:51:07 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Loose Pulleys
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> I have experienced difficulty in being able to keep drive pulleys
> mounted firmly on their motor shafts.  In both cases (Taiwan and Chinese
> Machines) the pulley is held onto the squared-key shaft by an Allen
> screw of sufficiently small size that it is difficult to get a real
> tight purchase on the screw via a conventional Allen wrench.
>
> In other words, I tighten 'em, and they come loose. I haven't tried
> locktite yet, but will.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kit
> -------------------

Had a similar prob with a Delta contractor's saw after I tried nesting the
motor pulley very close to the motor.  Turned on the machine, smelled
scorched belt guard after ~15 seconds.  Shut it off, looked at the guard,
noticed gouges where the belt had rubbed into the guard on the motor side.

What happened was, I had shifted the key so it wasn't sitting flat in its
channel; pulley keyways are ground into the shaft with a rotating cutter,
so the motor end of the keyway is ground concave.  I had shifted the key
onto the concave area.  Motor torque was enough to slip the unstable piece
loose.  Loosened the key, reseated it, retightened it.  No problems since.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ibdegen2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:05 EST 1997
Article: 193469 of rec.woodworking
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From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
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Subject: Re: radial saw adjustment
Date: 30 Mar 1997 23:02:38 GMT
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> airway wrote:
> >
> > Folks:
> >
> > Quick question...I have a Craftsman radial arm saw (contr series).  
when
> > crosscutting, the advancing portion of the blade cuts cleanly. 
However,
> > when the rear end of the blade cuts, it splinters the wood.  I do run
the
> > blade through slowly.  Is there an alignment adj that I missed?
> >

After all the criticism I've laid on "Crapsman" products, especially their
RAS, I do have one compliment:  the instruction manual for my RAS is
clear, concise and instructive, especially for setup and alignment.  Order
one from Sears.    In my experience, manufacturers will provide free
manuals (Delta, Makita and Porter Cable, for three).  Probably for
products liability protection.  Maybe Sears will provide one for free,
too.  It would go a long way to improving their reputation.  Let us know.

Braun Degenshein


From cdub@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:06 EST 1997
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From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Re: stupid question: cabinet makers table saw Vs. Contractors table saw
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In article <5gs7uf$jvo@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>,
  jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay) wrote:

> Delta's actual tolerances are, though it would be interesting.  All that extra
> weight and heavier castings in the Unisaw buys you far less vibration.  I've
> mentioned before here that I can put a coffee cup on the table of my Unisaw
> and barely see ripples.  If I do that on my contractor's saw, not only do I
> see ripples, but the cup walks around the table...
>
> John Paquay
----------------

Dynamic damping.  Pack the underside of the top with lots of silly putty.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
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From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:07 EST 1997
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Jerry Glazman <jerryg@esslink.com> wrote:

>> 
>> airway wrote:
>> >
>> > Folks:
>> >
>> > Quick question...I have a Craftsman radial arm saw (contr series).   when
>> > crosscutting, the advancing portion of the blade cuts cleanly.  However,
>> > when the rear end of the blade cuts, it splinters the wood.  I do run the
>> > blade through slowly.  Is there an alignment adj that I missed?
>> >
>
>Yes, the blade must be perfectly parallel to the saw arm (blade travel).
>Otherwise the heel of the blade will not be in same place in the kerf
>that the front of the blade has cut.

 
If the yoke carraige bearings are not snug and free of play it can do
this.  (Craapsman has a terrible setup for adjustment) Also the motor
must be indexed to the yoke / mount that carries it, and it is
supposed to be set at the factory, and no adj is given for this.
There are 3 or 4 sockethead cap screws that mount the motors pivot
yoke to the motoor assy.  It takes a special allen to get them out,
but nothing that can't be overcome with a pair of vicegrips, and then
put standard cap screws back in their place.


 You should not be seeing the
>splinters on both sides of the cut. I am not familiar with the 
>Sears RA saw but there should be an adjustment of the carriage (other
>than turning the carriage 90 degrees to the saw arm. Move the blade
>carrage away from the side that has the splinters.
>
>Check out the Taunton Press video "Radial Arm Saw Joinery" by Curtis
>Erpelding. I used it successfully to set up my Dewalt RA saw. Highly
>recommend it. The set-up info is worth the money.
>
>Jerry Glazman

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:07 EST 1997
Article: 193472 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Waterglass - Sodium Silicate - firesafe ???
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:39:21 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 54
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---------------------------------25746316328283
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I looked and looked - doesn't look good. Lots of other uses,
Mostly in the glass industry.  Other Silicates are fireproof.

I hope the attached text comes next.
Martin


---------------------------------25746316328283
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain

Looking at Chem Expo - Industry News/Chemical Profile - Sodium Silicates (group) do not list 
Fire Retardant as a use unless it is in a small percentage and is lumped in misc.


"Waterglass vs. Calcium Silicate"
by John Chipura
This is a wood treatment shoot-out. Waterglass is a controversial ingredient in violin
finishing. Chipura makes a case for using calcium silicate instead.


 http://www.spectrumglass.com/
Has waterglass Registered name.

 Environmental Annual Report 1995  [More Like This] 
                 URL: http://www.akzonobel.com/environ/envirall.htm 
                 Summary: The coatings industry has launched Coatings Care®, which is
                 fundamentally Responsible Care® adapted to the needs of the coatings
                 industry. Representatives of the Gillingham location also helped formulate the
                 CIA Guidance on Responsible Care® Management Systems for Health,
                 Safety and the Environment, and the Gillingham site continues to be a leader in
                 the CIA's CHEMSAFE Emergency.
                                             

Fireproof cements Hoechst K 12 and K 14 are potassium silicate cements with corresponding chemical 
resistance but increased thermal resistance. Since they harden chemically and at elevated temperatures 
also form a ceramic bond, these fireproof cements have the advantage over fireclay mortars that they 
can be used in the construction of selfsupporting brickwork even at normal temperatures.

 New Advanced Fireproof Material  [More Like This] 
                 URL: http://www.sirim.my/~rnd/pro_tech/silicate.html 
                 Summary: Calcium Silicate developed from siliceous raw materials such as
                 silica sand and rice husk ash has good insulation properties and is fire
                 resistant. Silica sand or rice husk ash, which contains more than 97% silica
                 content, is an excellent starting material for manufacturing this new material
                 called xonotlite.

---------------------------------25746316328283--


From norberg@redshift.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:08 EST 1997
Article: 193473 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 17:51:11 -0600
From: norberg@redshift.com
Subject: gold leaf suppliers, Wholesale
Newsgroups: alt.crafts.professional,rec.woodworking,rec.antiques,alt.crafts.polymer-clay
Message-ID: <859765430.10591@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Thank you Robert, Here is the list that you asked me for, keep in mind
that the list below are suppliers of these materials at cost. So your
expences don't get sucked out of your wallet like a retail distributor
does.

The West coast has:
Easy Leaf Products,   (800) 339-1979
located in Los Angeles, CA.
---------------------------------------------------

Central USA:
Wehrung & Billmeier,  (773) 472-1544
located in Chicago, IL.
--------------------------------------------------

The East coast has a lot of them... here's three of the best ones out
there:
Barclay Gold Leaf,  (908) 353-5522 located in Elizabeth, NJ.
--------------------------------------

Leo Uhlfelder Company,    (914) 664-8701
located in Mount Vernon, NY.
-----------------------------------------------

Art Essentials of New York Ltd.,    (800) 283-5323
located in Suffern, NY.
------------------------------------

All of these established distributors have a well known reputation for
having the latest in gilding information available. As well as the best
prices for the gold leaf in any karat required..... I would recommend
staying away from Sepp Leaf, I found that they use lesser quality gold
leaf and place some make up company name on them and sell it as a quality
gold leaf product. One of them is named FOAB, the leaf in this name is of
poor grade and quality. You can tell by examining the leaves and seeing
pin holes through the surface of the leaf. Also a lot of the leaf in this
case has eroded edges that have been patched to cover it up. When you rub
through the gold on your project, you will have a spotty looking gilding
job to show your client. Plus they act like they are doing you a favor by
giving you limited advice on answering the problems you are experiencing.
I could get better help from any one else than Sepp.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From wweber@frontiernet.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:09 EST 1997
Article: 193474 of rec.woodworking
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From: Wayne Weber <wweber@frontiernet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based stain on veneer?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:53:05 -0600
Organization: W-W Finishing Supplies
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Woody wrote:
> 
> I'm about to tackle my first try with veneer on a tabletop.  Should I worry
> that a water-based stain will make my veneer totally warp and buckle? (fyi:
> mahogany veneer)
> --
> sgrabin@ix.netcom.com


Depends on the  source of your stain.  If it's commercial, some of the
brands have less than 10% water in them, so it shouldn't be a
problem--test first on scrap!  It you are making it yourself, and you
still have the powder, just use alcohol as a solvent instead of water
and don't saturate the veneer.
-- 
Wayne Weber
W-W Finishing Supplies
38 Partridge Hill, Honeoye Falls, NY 14472
1-800-836-8424


From Mercutio@addis.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:10 EST 1997
Article: 193475 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mercutio@addis.net (George M. Middius)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 23:22:07 GMT
Organization: Glanbrok, Conqueror of Bluntskulls
Lines: 21
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Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= wrote:

> I ... found a half log of snakewood (approx 6" in diameter, 
> 24" long) at a supply store in Montreal, Quebec and the
> asking price was $600.00 Canadian ???

> Does this sound realistic?


Sounds quite high for lumber. Maybe a log is prized beyond reason in
your 'hood.

I saw some snakewood at a local lumber shop (Wood World in Rockville,
MD) for a fairly high $13/bf. The only wood they had with a higher
price was real teak at $17. But those prices are nothing compared to
the $600 log (that's about $500 US, right?).


George M. Middius
Mercutio@addis.net



From ernfisch@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:11 EST 1997
Article: 193476 of rec.woodworking
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From: ernfisch@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ALIGN-IT or TS-ALIGNER?
Date: 30 Mar 1997 17:28:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <5hn0eh$doa@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
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In <333E110E.65BB@uiuc.edu>, "R. Bates Allen" <rballen@uiuc.edu> writes:
>I bought the TS-ALIGNER JR. about a month ago through the Hartville Tool
>Catalog.  I think it was $99.  I was very pleased with the product
>design found it easy to use, with good documentation.  I did a thorough
>setup on my Jet table saw.  It has never been better.  Cannot comment on
>the ALIGN-IT, which I read about in Wood Magazine a few months ago.
>
>I felt that for a price of around $100, any device that makes it easy to
>get VERY accurate machine setup is a worthwhile investment. There is a
>TS-ALIGNER HOMEPAGE at
>	

I have the same comments about the TS-Aligner jr.  I also bought the machinists
square and 45 deg angle block from Mr. Bennett.

This is a very well made tool and is easy to use.  It makes saw setup a breeze.
The only warning is to read the manual FIRST.  I didn't and spent some time read-
justing the aligner.  This was not a big problem but was unneccesary if I had only
read the manual all the way through.

ernie fisch



From charliediy@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:12 EST 1997
Article: 193477 of rec.woodworking
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From: charliediy@aol.com (CharlieDIY)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Sliding Compound Miter Saw?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 00:40:47 GMT
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Don't rush.  DeWalt is coming out with a 12" slide compound saw in the
$650 range, probably in late May, early June.  Worth checking.


From 8thVZubV@bigger.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:12 EST 1997
Article: 193478 of rec.woodworking
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From: LUBOS SEIFERT <8thVZubV@bigger.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: I plott DRAFIX & QUICKCAD
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:53:48 -0800
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Can your local cad-plotting shop print a*.cad file type for you ???????
If not,your conversion,translation, and other export/import nightmares
are over.

Just send a floppy with some drawing saved in DRAFIX or QUICKCAD native
*.cad file type and I send you back a FREE sample of plotted drawing 
in desired size.

IMPORTANT!!!  Convert any rare True Type fonts to polygons before saving
              and copying your file and indicate the size of page setup
!!!


You don't have to covert any of these lettering type of fonts:

                -BLUEPRINT
                -WRITE
                -TECH


Mail your disk to:                      ls_cad
                                        440 N.CIVIC DR.,#303
                                        WALNUT CREEK, CA 945 96

E-mail any questions to:                ls_cad@tpi.net
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P.S. Users of other Windows based (no ACAD) programs feel free to
inquire.


From bwd3mr@mailhost.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:13 EST 1997
Article: 193479 of rec.woodworking
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From: Benjamin Davis <bwd3mr@pop.netaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Parks Woodworking
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:56:10 -0800
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Woodworkers;

Does anyone have the name/phone/e-mail for a Kentucky? company that
purchased Parks Woodworking of Cincinatti?  If you have any useful
information about this, mail me at <a
HREF="mailto:bwd3mr@mailhost.net"><i><u>bwd3mr@mailhost.net</i></u></a>.


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:14 EST 1997
Article: 193480 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <333F0FB1.25FF@ibm.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:13:21 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
Reply-To: jay@rpltd.com
Organization: REsource Partners
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 1/4" Raised Pannel Router Bit
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193480

I only own a 2HP router with a 1/4" collet.  I want to make raised
pannels with my router table.  

Until now, I have only bought CMT bits, beliving that they were the best
quality.  But they do not sell a 1/4" bit, vertical or horizontal.  

In e-mail with them, they say that it cannot be done safely.  But other
manufactuers do sell such bits.

Yes, I should buy a 4HP 220v router or something, but until then ... ;)

I have searched Deja news and am still not satisfied.  I would be
interested in y'alls opinion.

"There is no condition in the human experience that cannot be solved by
an appropriately shaped, sized, timed, and detonated charge of high
explosives."

Jay Sultan  jay@rptld.com
Director of Development
Real Estate REsource Partners, Ltd.


From basiadar@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:15 EST 1997
Article: 193481 of rec.woodworking
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From: basiadar@aol.com (BASIADAR)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing petrified masking tape?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 01:30:57 GMT
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derek gryczka-antiquer from new jork                                      
                            try to use bee's wax ( "briwax") .just apply
some of it onto masking tape in order to soften the tape(do not let the
wax overdryon the tape)-then using chisel gently remove the tape .if the
wax overdried on your tape-do not worry-try whole proces again .good luck
.



From gege@series2000.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:16 EST 1997
Article: 193482 of rec.woodworking
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From: "George Geddes" <gege@series2000.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good jig saws?????
Date: 31 Mar 1997 04:28:38 GMT
Organization: Crafted Wood by George
Lines: 8
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Add my name to the list of happy Bosch jigsaw owners, If care is taken, it
will do the work most people would do with a band saw, in material up to
2", if they had one.

Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net> wrote in article <333C7355.2F1@ibm.net>...
> Mark Stamp wrote:
> > 
> > Can anyone suggest a good jig saw?


From davies-ow@mv.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:17 EST 1997
Article: 193483 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Owen Davies <davies-ow@mv.com>
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
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Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= wrote:
 
> I ... found a half log of snakewood (approx 6" in diameter,
> 24" long) at a supply store in Montreal, Quebec and the
> asking price was $600.00 Canadian ???
> 
> Does this sound realistic?

Don't know whether "realistic" is exactly the word, but
that's about the asking price I saw at the Granite State
Woodturner's symposium in Keen, NH, in February.  Too
bad, as it's lovely stuff.

Owen Davies


From giametti@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:18 EST 1997
Article: 193484 of rec.woodworking
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From: giametti@aol.com (Giametti)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: 31 Mar 1997 01:52:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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> We were having some construction done where I work and I noticed they
> were using Porter-Cable and Milwaukee reciprocating saws. Since I was
> planning on getting one, I figured these guys would know from experience
> what would be a good one. 
> 
> I asked some of them and they said the Porter-Cable was good and the
> Milwaukee was the one they would recommend.

I have the Porter-Cable Tiger saw, which I like. I believe that in a
reciprocating saw, the 2 most important things are 1) orbital action, and
2) a huge motor (8 amps or so). After all, it is a demolition tool, not a
finesse tool. I don't know if the new incarnation of the Milwaukee Sawzall
orbits (the original one didn't). If it doesn't, I would look elsewhere.
The Makita is a wimp and a waste of time. I haven't used the Bosch, but it
has the two critical features.

Hope this helps

Jim Eddy


From giametti@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:19 EST 1997
Article: 193485 of rec.woodworking
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From: giametti@aol.com (Giametti)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wolfcraft Biscuits too thick for slots cut by Ryobi Biscuit joiner
Date: 31 Mar 1997 01:59:02 GMT
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: Question: are Woldcrafts' biscuits standard size or rather thick. I.e.,
: are the included biscuits supplied by Ryobi substandard thickness? Who
: is not living up to specs?!!!
: Thanks,

I find there is a difference between brands. If you can get Lamello's
biscuits, do it. They are much better quality and more consistant than
Porter-Cable, or Freuds biscuits.

Jim Eddy


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:08:20 EST 1997
Article: 193486 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biesmeyer blade guard
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 01:42:06 GMT
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Before you buy, also check out the Excalibur and Delta overarm guards
for comparison. Each offers a different set of attractions and
annoyances. (None is perfect.)




From chasm@insync.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:21 EST 1997
Article: 193487 of rec.woodworking
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From: chasm@insync.net (CL Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodsmith PANEL SAW HDW KIT; Looks Good for Only $134
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 02:17:19 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:34:58 -0500, "Bradley A. Stolzer" <WoodGuyNH@AOL.COM>
wrote:

)Has anyone built and/or used one of these.  Looks like a really nice, safe,
)convenient, accurate way to cut plywood panels.  It stands up on wheels and
)doesn't take up much room.  And it's only $135  (plus the price of the wood
)and a circular saw).


I have one in my 14x24' shop with a Craftsman saw (well, I wasn't going to
use it for anything else and it still runs) on it and it is very accurate.
Took me about a day to put it all together to include buying the materials.
you will be happy with it!
chas
___________________________________________________
>>>>>>>>NEW EMAIL ADDRESS<<<<<<<<<
C.L. Hamilton (chasm@insync.net) Houston, TX

  "Those who would give up essential liberty, to purchase a little 
   temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."  
   Ben Franklin, 1759
X:No-Archive: Yes


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:08:22 EST 1997
Article: 193488 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Outfeed Table for Delta Contractor II TS
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 01:48:32 GMT
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One small piece of advice: make sure when you attach the setup to your
saw table that the rollers are absolutely true to the fence, or, if
you must err, they should tend to pull the work into the outfeed end
of the fence rather than away from it. 

On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:47:28 -0800, Redfield <Redfield@ix.netcom.com>
wrote:

>I purchased several lengths of light weight roller conveyor track at a
>used industrial equipment supplier for $20.00 for 10 feet. These are 8"
>x 1" rollers set into a light weight aluminum or steel track. They come
>in various lengths and can easily be cut to length. I fabricated an
>attachment to grip the back angle piece of my Biesmeyer fence and rest
>the other end on a fold up saw horse when in use. They are easily set up
>and removed as neccessary. I also use the same setup for an infeed table
>extension. Eventualy, time permitting, I am going to build a fold down
>extension back table using the rollers attached so that they can slide
>side to side to catch the cutoff pieces where neccessary.



From tj061470@post1.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:22 EST 1997
Article: 193489 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Tim" <tj061470@post1.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Workbench Plan
Date: 30 Mar 1997 22:24:15 GMT
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Hello,

Does anyone out there have *ANY* plans for building a workbench for the
garage?


I'm looking to build something with some drawers to store nails, screws,
etc.

Thanks



From hoggy@easyway.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:23 EST 1997
Article: 193490 of rec.woodworking
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From: L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta table saw problem
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:59:06 -0500
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Clifford,
Have the same saw myself & went to the book, since I don't recall ever
using a second wrench to change the blade.  I always use the 'block of
wood' method for this job.  I'm skipping right to step three since one &
two are common sense.  If you can't figure them out, get rid of the saw,
as you'd hurt yourself.  Anyway the book says;

3. "Place a block of wood against the front of the saw blade, and using
the arbor wrench supplied with the saw, turn the arbor nut toward the
front of the saw.  Remove arbor nut, blade flange and saw blade."

Reinstalling the blade makes no mention either.  Pure & simple sounds
like the method here.  Good Luck

Larry

Clifford A. Collins wrote:
> 
> My brother-in-law gave me his Delta Contractor saw (34-445) when he
> received delivery on his General cabinet saw. However, it was missing
> a few parts. So, like a good purest, I ordered them through an
> authorized Delta distributor.
> 
> Two of the missing items were the wrenches for changing the blade
> on the saw. One is to hold the arbor from rotating and the other is
> for loosening the retainer nut. Problem: there is not enough
> clearance between the arbor casting that holds the arbor bearings
> and the cupped washer that clamps against the saw blade to allow
> the wrench access to the arbor. See low-tech artwork below.
> 
>                +------ saw blade
>       cupped   |
>       washer   |        +-----cupped washer
>         |      v        |
>  nut    |     ||        v  +----- wrench suppose to fit in here
>   |     v     ||           |
>   v      /|   ||       |\  v
>  +-+    / |   ||       | \  +------+
>  | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |-
>  | |   |  |   ||   |   |  | |      |  <---arbor
>  | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |-
>  +-+    \ |   ||       | /  +-+  +-+
>          \|   ||       |/     |  |  <--- arbor casting
>               ||
> 
> Anybody had this problem? Yeah, I know, just stick a piece of wook
> against the blade. But, I'm a purest and want the tools to do what
> they were intended to do. Is it worth calling Delta?
> 
> Clifford


From joe@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca Wed Apr  2 12:08:24 EST 1997
Article: 193491 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe McSheffery <joe@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Compressor Size/Type
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:36:38 -0600
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Hi there!

  I am thinking about buying an Air Compressor and want to get some
ideas from people who have some experience.

  I plan to use the Compressor to power;
   * Finish Nailers/Tackers in the Workshop,
   * Impact Wrench and other Automotive Tools, and
   * Framing Nailer and Roofing Nailer when I put an addition on our
house.

What is the Minimum recommended Horsepower I will require ?

Which is better, the Newer Oilless type or the "OLDER" Oil in the sump
style?

THNX in advance Joe McSh


From cring@concentric.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:25 EST 1997
Article: 193492 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Plan
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:50:04 -0700
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Tim wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Does anyone out there have *ANY* plans for building a workbench for the
> garage?
> 
> I'm looking to build something with some drawers to store nails, screws,
> etc.
> 
> Thanks

Try http://www.theoak.com/gary/
Click on Shop Projects then scroll on the right. There are four plans
and a workbench page which is clickable.
-- 
C.E.(Chuck) Ring
Madera Encantada (Enchanted Wood)
http://theoak.com/chuck/index.html
http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html



From sweetsaw@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:26 EST 1997
Article: 193493 of rec.woodworking
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From: sweetsaw@aol.com (SweetSaw)
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Subject: Re: removing petrified masking tape?
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I like 
W-D 40 on any surface I don't intend to finish later.  Just spray it on
and let it set for a while.
Curran Copeland
Sweet SawDust


From QYLM60A@prodigy.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:27 EST 1997
Article: 193494 of rec.woodworking
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From: QYLM60A@prodigy.com (Joseph Young)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: osage orange
Date: 31 Mar 1997 03:04:56 GMT
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i cut a mulberry tree and it appears the wood will look much like osage 
when it dries. anyone with experience with mulberry wood?



From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:27 EST 1997
Article: 193495 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1/4" Raised Pannel Router Bit
Date: 31 Mar 1997 03:11:18 GMT
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Jay:

You'll have a hard time finding any source for a 1/4" shaft panel raiser.
They are big bits and put a bit of strain on the machine. I raised some
with my PC 690, and later had to replace a bearing. I don't know if there's
a cause & effect there.

If you have a 2hp router, it should have come with a 1/2" collet. Check the
manufacturer.




From sumbody@nowhere.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:28 EST 1997
Article: 193496 of rec.woodworking
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From: sumbody@nowhere.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 06:11:59 GMT
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scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin) wrote:


>

>Woodworker's Supply is being used to categorize a catalog/store that
>specializes in selling a wide range of tools, supplies and materials for the
>woodworking hobbyist and probably also some professional woodworkers.  

>Home Depot is being used to categorize all general purpose hardware stores,
>lumber yards and home improvement stores.

SNIP SNIP

Neither the Home Depot type store nor the specialty catalog store is
in business out of any sense of altruism or love for its customer.
Each is in busiiness to make money and each will attempt to wring the
maximum profit out of every customer who approaches.  Nothing wrong
with this.  As a matter of fact it works great.  That is why we have
such a choice in capitalist countries and so little choice in
socialist ones.

Here is something to think about, however.

1.  Some catalog stores make a lot of money on "shipping" charges.
Some will charge 5.95 shipping on a $10.00 item.  This amounts to 60%
markup in the form of a "hidden" charge.  What does the shipping
really cost them?  And keep in mind that the catalog store does not
need to staff counters with cashiers or display their wares for
shoplifters so don't reason that they have costs that the home-depot
type store does not have.

2.  Stores like Home Depot expect to make "x" dollars per square foot
of retail space .  Their computer data bases tell them which items
turn over fastest.  These items are the items that they are going to
stock.  They don't really give a damn about service to their customer
other than to not alienate him to the degree he will not return, so
don't ever expect to find anything there that is out of the ordinary
or highly specialized.

Each of these two retailers is out to extract as much as it can from
each customer and each is acting in its own self interest.  As a
consumer you should act in your self interest.

Personally, I have one decent hardware store in my area in addition to
a home depot.  I patronize the hardware store whenever I can because I
realize that if Home Depot forces this store out of business I will no
longer have a place to buy any type of specialty item.  I also realize
that if Home Depot succeeds in eliminating what little competition
they still have then not only will I not have a store to find more
specialized items but I can be certain that Home Depot prices will
start rising and rising FAST.

There's my 2 cents on this matter.  Just act in your own self interest
and the system will keep on working.  As a consumer you don't owe any
merchandiser any loyalty whatsoever.  You can be certain the
merchandisers have no loyalty to you.  If they are nice, or if they
have an excellent return policy or if they give superb follow-up
service it is because they want to keep you as a customer.  It's not
because they have any great affection for you.  You are foolish if
allow "feelings" to direct your buying decisions.  

Also note how some--though not all--of the catalog companies
misrepresent their products in their catalog spiels.  Also, remember
most of them are planning how they can profitably break into the
retail market by opening stores in locations where they sense a
profit.  Ain't it wonderful how this capitalist system works to our
advantage in the long run!

Bye

PS Dont try to E-mail me.  I can receive no E-mail. 





From pbsmith@indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:08:29 EST 1997
Article: 193497 of rec.woodworking
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From: pbsmith@indiana.edu (pbsmith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,iu.classified,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Hitachi G12SA 4.5" Disc Grinder
Date: 31 Mar 1997 03:14:07 GMT
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I bought this grinder two weeks ago and used it for several days
refinishing a floor.  I paid $90.  I would like to sell it for $50 + UPS
shipping. It's built like a rock.

Brad Smith
pbsmith@indiana.edu



From sweetsaw@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:30 EST 1997
Article: 193498 of rec.woodworking
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From: sweetsaw@aol.com (SweetSaw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drill Press problems
Date: 31 Mar 1997 03:25:14 GMT
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Had the same problem with a 30+ year old sears 1/2" drillpress that had
been left out in the weather for a while before I got it.  Cleaned the
chuck etc out with denatured alcahol and very fine steel wool.  Havent had
the problem since, did take out a lot of fine rust and gunk.
Curran Copeland
Sweet SawDust


From Alan.Murphy!@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:31 EST 1997
Article: 193499 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 03:43:07 GMT
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Mike,

As a general rule, no, not all detail sanders suck.
As a general rule most detail sanders vibrate.

Alan

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
***********************************************************


From Alan.Murphy!@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:32 EST 1997
Article: 193500 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
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Subject: Re: Delta table saw problem
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Clifford,

One point of Safety to bring up... I know we have discussed this many
times before but it still is worth mentioning.

As a rule of thumb...the blade doesn't need to be any tighter than
what you can hold with your hand.. by this I mean tighting the nut
with a wrench and holding the blade with your hand... I use a glove
for obvious reasons

If your blade is sharp this is as tight as you'll ever need (including
dados)

Also it imparts a measure of saftey should the blade bind in a piece
of wood the blade will be loose enough that it will stop spinning and
allow the arbor to rotate till you cut the power.

Alan

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
***********************************************************


From Alan.Murphy!@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:33 EST 1997
Article: 193501 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alan.Murphy@worldnet.att.net (Alan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Request from an Artist
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 03:55:49 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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it might help to know what country and area in that country you are
interested in... the web is world wide you know.

Alan
***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
***********************************************************


From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:34 EST 1997
Article: 193502 of rec.woodworking
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From: foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: osage orange
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 03:58:41 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 21
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can't reall speak for Mulberry, but Osage now thats another
story.....let it dry, and its like working with steel.  I have many a
Bodot, Moc Orange, Osage, or whatever you want to call it on my
property.  Best firewood I ever had, provided you cut and split before
it dries, which seems like almost overnight.  It makes treated lumber
seem like a joke, as some of my posts for fence are over 50 years old
out of 3 to 4" Osage, now weathered and eroded to about 3/4" to 1"
still with the fence staples in it, and you can't break it off or pull
the staples, or drive another staple in it.  But I have heard Mulberry
does mimick Osage in most ways, but I have no experience with it.

 QYLM60A@prodigy.com (Joseph Young) wrote:

>i cut a mulberry tree and it appears the wood will look much like osage 
>when it dries. anyone with experience with mulberry wood?
>

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From dcjordan@bellsouth.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:36 EST 1997
Article: 193503 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:41:32 -0600
From: dcjordan@bellsouth.net
Subject: Finish for Cherry furniture
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859783063.20329@dejanews.com>
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I am building a shaker style entertainment center out of cherry.  Any
suggestions on a method for finishing and stains?  I really like the
finish that Ethan Allan has on some of their cherry furniture.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From djgood@cdsnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:37 EST 1997
Article: 193504 of rec.woodworking
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From: djgood@cdsnet.net (Dennis J. Gooding)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making Pine Look Old
Date: 31 Mar 1997 00:57:33 GMT
Organization: CDS Internet
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In article <333cc06d.1968469@news.nai.net>, cucumu@ct2.nai.net says...
>
>Try Nitric Acid (20%) brushed on, then heated with a heat-gun.
>Experiment on scraps first, of course. Jeff Jewitt shows how to do
>this in a video called Hand-Applied Finishes: Coloring Wood 
>(the Taunton Press, Newtown Ct.)
>
>On 29 Mar 1997 19:52:36 GMT, tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21) wrote:
>
>>  I am into shaker and colonial furnature and keep trying to get the
>>"real" old look of pine from new wood.  I have tried different stains and
>>even barn siding (this comes the closest until you plane it) and I would
>>love any ideas.
>>
>

     I have had good success with heat alone.  Use a propane torch with a 
fan-like flame spreader (designed to soften paint for removal).  Keep the 
flame moving constantly, because the wood will char instantly if you stop, 
and will require a lot of sanding to recover.  Generally, several passes will 
be required to get a uniform result.  Resist the temptation to  direct the 
torch at any remaining white spots to color them; they will almost certainly 
char before you can react.  Keep the flame moving through them.  I have tried 
this with a small electric heat gun but find it very slow going.  Perhaps an 
industrial capacity heat gun would work.  Nitric acid is incredibly ugly 
stuff and makes hideous burns.  Dennis



From djgood@cdsnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:37 EST 1997
Article: 193505 of rec.woodworking
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From: djgood@cdsnet.net (Dennis J. Gooding)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Drum Sander
Date: 31 Mar 1997 01:03:31 GMT
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In article <333E0A3E.63C1@northernnet.com>, dmack@northernnet.com says...
>
>I'm looking for any advice on how to eliminate a "new" problem with my 1 
>amd 1/2-year-old Grizzly 24" drum sander.  I'm getting end snipe on the 
>last 6-8 inches of nearly every board that's going through this machine. 
>I didn't have this problem when the machine was new. Any idea's as to 
>what the culprit may be? Thanks in advance,
>Don MacKinnon

     Call Grizzly tech support or Email them your problem.  I have found them 
very willing to help with problems.  Good luck.  Dennis



From minotaur@classics4sale.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:38 EST 1997
Article: 193506 of rec.woodworking
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From: "A.J.G." <minotaur@classics4sale.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 40 B Grade Walnut Burls
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 21:37:57 -1000
Organization: classics4sale.com
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I was wondering if anyone would like to buy or knows anyone that wants
to buy some walnut burls. Someone I do business with has 40 Grade B
Walnut Burls. These are located in Northern California. They can be
shipped as is or trimmed. They are around 1,000 to 2,000 lbs each. If
interested email me with any questions.. 
	
					Thanks,
					Andrew.
minotaur@classics4sale.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:39 EST 1997
Article: 193507 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: soft woods
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 23:59:46 -0500
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does any one know what would be the best wood to use with jigsaws and
scroll saws.
write me 
ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:40 EST 1997
Article: 193508 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: VEENER
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:00:50 -0500
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does any one know exactly what veener is 
write me 
ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:41 EST 1997
Article: 193509 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: plans wanted
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:02:35 -0500
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does any one know where i can get plans for small projects
write me ebender@erols.com


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:42 EST 1997
Article: 193510 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Northern White Cedar
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:04:30 -0500
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bcompton wrote:
> 
> Has anyone had experience with using Northern white cedar (Thuja
> occidentalis).  Does it mill well?  I am considering using it to line a
> closet if it can be planed smooth.  Any information would be appreciated.
> 
> Bill Compton
bill i believe it can be planed very smooth but will dull your planer
blade after lots of use.


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Wed Apr  2 12:08:43 EST 1997
Article: 193511 of rec.woodworking
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From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodhaven Sliding Cut-off Box
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 23:56:25 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
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References: <5h4jf2$76q@nntpb.cb.lucent.com> <33375DF4.7FBE@hal-pc.org> <5h9jt4$cp0@cronkite.cisco.com> <333A05A5.985@hal-pc.org>
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In article <333A05A5.985@hal-pc.org>
keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org> writes:
 
>P. Eric Chi wrote:
>>
>> In article <33375DF4.7FBE@hal-pc.org>, keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org> wrote:
>> >Dennis R. Vogel wrote:
>> >>
>>
>>
>> Hi, what is the "super slick plastic"? Where can I get it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Eric.
>>
>think it was something like UMHP?.  It's like a hard teflon.  Jets new
>X-acta fence has it.
>
>Buzz
 
UHMW is what you want. Ultra High Molecular Weight is what it means. The jet
fence is not the same stuff, it is HDPE and means High Density Polyethylene.
 
 
STEVE RIMAR
 
             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
 
 
         all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Wed Apr  2 12:08:44 EST 1997
Article: 193512 of rec.woodworking
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From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Span lengths
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 23:57:16 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
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What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
Thanks for all replies.
 
 
STEVE RIMAR
 
             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
 
 
         all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


From D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU Wed Apr  2 12:08:44 EST 1997
Article: 193513 of rec.woodworking
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From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuits
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 23:18:11 EST
Organization: The University of Akron
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In article <5hgo0s$cj6@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>
jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay) writes:
 
>It's about time for me to re-stock on bicuits.  I'd love to
>get some feedback on whose bicuits are the best quality
>in terms of uniform (and appropriate) sizing.  The last batch
>I bought (cheapies) varied by as much as .045" in thickness,
>and I'd like to avoid that disaster this time...
>
>Personally, I prefer Pilsbury, but they're just too darned
>flaky and hard to glue...
>
>Seriously, though, I'd like to hear of any particularly good or
>bad brands or sources...
>
>--
>John Paquay
 
 
 
I have some Porter Cable biscuits and haven't been very happy with them. Some
of them will not even begin to fit the slots. Many of the PC biscuits ended
up in the trash can. I have even microwaved them but it did not help. Freud
biscuits have worked very well.
 
STEVE RIMAR
 
             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
 
 
         all comments are my own
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


From spl1@nojunkerols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:45 EST 1997
Article: 193514 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The best deal......
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:29:10 -0500
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Ain't Woodworkers the nicest damn people.


From spl1@nojunkerols.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:46 EST 1997
Article: 193515 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: routers
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:17:07 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <333F48D3.7A73@nojunkerols.com>
References: <01bc394d$74117f20$74b107c4@jarwoods.iafrica.com>
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To: Peter Tennant Woods <ptwoods@iafrica.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193515

In order:
1. Get a router with both.
2. I really like my Porter-Cable 90690. Basically same as 690.
3. They are truly one of the most versitile tools in the shop.

Tom Corey

Peter Tennant Woods wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> I would like to know if anyone knows any good links to router pages where I
> could find infomation on routers?
> 
> I a thinking of purchasing a router and would like to ask a few questions
> 
> 1.What size chuck(collet)should I get 1/2" or 1/4"?
> 2.What is the best make to purchase?
> 3How versatile are routers actualy? I have heard that they are one of the
> most versitile machines for the home workshop.
> 
> Any help or input would be greatly appriciated
> Thanks
> Richard Woods
>


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:08:47 EST 1997
Article: 193516 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue-ups from curly maple: bad idea?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 23:50:15 -0600
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Steve Rehrauer wrote:
> 
> I'm building a small table for my daughter, using plans from the latest
> Woodsmith.  The top will be 19x19" square.  There's a ~6" tall drawer
> under the top.  I'd planned to use cherry for the top, and light woods
> for the legs & remainder.  I'd planned to use curly maple for the drawer
> front and "apron" (sorry, don't know what to call it -- the part of the
> table that frames the drawer).
> 
> I found a nice 4/4 piece of curly hard maple yesterday.  It has nice
> curl from edge to edge.  (I can see why some folks call this "tiger"
> maple.)
> 
> I'm thinking I might like to reverse the color scheme on the plans,
> and use cherry for everything but the top.  That curly maple piece
> *could* be glued-up to make the top.  My question is: Will I regret
> trying it?  I've never worked with a curly wood before.  I'm warned
> that it's very prone to tear out.
> 
> The plans call for rounding the top and bevelling the bottom edges
> of the top.  I'm a little worried about chip-out.
> 
>        ---------------
>       (
>        \   (edge view of top)
>         --------------
> 
> Any words of wisdom?  Thanks in advance, --Steve
> --
> ---
> All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
>  sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
>  "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less

I think I would glue up the top carefully and find find someone with a
wide belt sander,instead of a planer, to even it up (this would be a
great opportunity to get the wife to let you buy one) then careful
sanding and scraping. On the edge detail I would experiment with your
scraps and test for the best speeds and take several light passes
regardless of the other factors.  Looks like the bottom portion of the
edge could be done on the tablesaw.

Buzz


From username@airmail.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:48 EST 1997
Article: 193517 of rec.woodworking
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From: username@airmail.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: taper guides
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:02:12 GMT
Organization: INTERNET AMERICA
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I am looking for information on the use and construction of taper guides for table legs, 
particularly with radial arm saws. I have seen these used on woodworking shows to set 
up a radial arm saw or a table saw to cut a taper on flat wooden table legs (ie lawn 
furniture). Any help would be appreciated. 
Email me at clay1@airmail.net


From vkumar@*best.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:49 EST 1997
Article: 193518 of rec.woodworking
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From: vkumar@*best.com (vijay kumar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: routers
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:21:21 GMT
Lines: 36
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I would recommend getting a 1/2 inch collet router with also the capability to 
use a 1/4 inch collet.  
The 1/2 inch bits have a tremendous strength against bending so the cuts 
generated are true and clean-- if you were to take on larger diameter bits in 
the future.

I would recommend the Porter Cable 690/691/693 series.  This has the 
versatility of being able to use both size collets, can accomodate plunge 
base, D handle base, as well as a standard base, all using the same motor.  
This is definitely the standard in routers--- most of the aftermarket 
accesories made by anyone are made to fit the Porter Cable first without 
modifications or adaptors.  Of course others will recommnend other brands which 
all have their strenghts.

And yes routers are indeed very versatile in the shop.

In article <01bc394d$74117f20$74b107c4@jarwoods.iafrica.com>, 
ptwoods@iafrica.com says...
>
>Hi
>
>I would like to know if anyone knows any good links to router pages where I
>could find infomation on routers?
>
>I a thinking of purchasing a router and would like to ask a few questions
>
>1.What size chuck(collet)should I get 1/2" or 1/4"?
>2.What is the best make to purchase?
>3How versatile are routers actualy? I have heard that they are one of the
>most versitile machines for the home workshop.
>
>Any help or input would be greatly appriciated
>Thanks
>Richard Woods
> 



From bakalis@cts.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:49 EST 1997
Article: 193519 of rec.woodworking
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From: bakalis@cts.com (Steven Bakalis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:26:33 GMT
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Message-ID: <859789514.351106@optional.cts.com>
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stev (fuzz@nut.wood) wrote:
: In article <859612079.128735@optional.cts.com>, bakalis@cts.com says...
: >
: >This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
: >resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.
: >
: >Steven B.
: >

: But it doesnt repair easy. And if its on a workbench, it will get 
: chipped, scratched, and generally mutilated or youre not doing much 
: work on it. 

: stev

If and when your workbech gets chipped, scratched, and generally
mutilated, you'll need to do more to repair it than recoat the surface
with a little danish oil. With polyurathane if the gouge and or scratch
is deep you can pour the stuff in and fill the opening until it is
level with the surface and let it dry. You can't do this with an oil
finish.

Steven B.


From bakalis@cts.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:50 EST 1997
Article: 193520 of rec.woodworking
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From: bakalis@cts.com (Steven Bakalis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:47:30 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (CTSNET), San Diego, CA
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Greetings

You can purchase fine tipped tweezers in steel, stainless steel, and
chrome plated steel from any medical or electronic tool supply
company. Look in your local yellow pages. If you get a catalog, you
can select from different styles and sharpness. Buy them by the gross
and give them away to your woodworking friends for Christmas. You can
pay from $2.00 to $80.00 dollars. The cheep ones are excellent for
removing splinters.

Steven B.


From eloso@azstarnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:51 EST 1997
Article: 193521 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bear" <eloso@azstarnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wormdrive saw?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:01:32 GMT
Organization: Starnet
Lines: 18
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Larry,

Worm drive saws have more torque and therefore are less prone to bind up
cutting framing stock.  These saws are generally used for framing and not
finish work.

Bear

L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net> wrote in article
<333CAF9D.6F74@easyway.net>...
> Hey all,
> Hoping that someone can help me with this one;  I'm looking for a new
> circular saw & have run across a worm drive, or hypoid drive for makita,
> & was wondering what make this saw so different from the standard type
> that's pretty common to all manufacturers.  What makes it better or
> worse? etc?  Any input would help, no spam please.  Thanks in advance.
> Larry
> 


From alexturn@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:52 EST 1997
Article: 193522 of rec.woodworking
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From: alexturn@ix.netcom.com(John Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: 31 Mar 1997 07:16:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
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References: <859783063.20329@dejanews.com>
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In <859783063.20329@dejanews.com> dcjordan@bellsouth.net writes: 
>
>I am building a shaker style entertainment center out of cherry.  Any
>suggestions on a method for finishing and stains?  I really like the
>finish that Ethan Allan has on some of their cherry furniture.
>
>-------------------==== Posted via Deja News
====-----------------------
>      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet

As I understand it, Ethan Allen bleaches all their woods white, as then
they color them with dye, before clear coating. This is the only way
they can make all the pieces match. A lot of people buy a couple pieces
now, and then add a piece or two after several years. The customer
expects that the new piece will exactly match the old piece.

Alex



From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:53 EST 1997
Article: 193523 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:22:56 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
Lines: 63
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On 28 Mar 1997 23:01:58 GMT, stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr) wrote:

>So, what was the point of this posting?
>
>Sticky Fingers
=======================================


Mr. Fingers,

Are you refering to the point of your posting or mine?  

If you are questioning the point/reason of my posting regarding
methlyene chloride, I suggest you read it as the answer is contained
therein.  I also intend to post regarding acetone, toulene, methanol,
and other woodworking related materials because I feel it is important
to know what we are using, some of the dangers involved, and how to
neutralize those dangers.  For example, if one had a weak heart,
working with methylene chloride could have very damaging effects as
the carbon dioxide is converted to cabon monoxide in the blood,  just
as working with it or other chemicals could have damaging effects on
an unborn child.

If you are, however, refering to the point of your own posting, I
cannot answer that.

Allow me to remind you that newsreaders, even the one provided through
AOL, has a reply function which allows quoted text to appear.  It is
considered good manners to post a portion of the text to which you are
replying.  This allows all those around the world who read your post
to understand what it is that you are responding to without having to
search.  All newsreaders and newservers vary somewhat as to retention
of messages so you can see that quoted text is necessary, helpful, and
considerate.

This newsgroup is composed of friendly, literate, helpful people who
freely give their time to help each other excell in their efforts to
work with wood, exchange information, techniques, methods, sources,
and assist in problem solving.

 Nowhere is there room or need for rudeness, abruptness, or over
inflated egos.  I have only been working with wood and finishing since
1969 with pay, and still have a lot to learn.  It is through mediums
such as this, with its concentration of knowledgable persons in the
woodworking arena that I find most rewarding and helpful to me.  

=============================================================





Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:54 EST 1997
Article: 193524 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.cis.uab.edu!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing cypress
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:36:48 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:42:26 -0600, Adrien Delbasty
<adrien@STARGAZER.NET> wrote:

>Help, Please
>My son built two cypress end tables and asked me to finish them for him.
>He wanted me to use sanding sealer, then satin polyurethane varnish.  I
>read in one article not to use sanding sealer, but rather thin varnish 50%
>for the first coat, then  gloss varnish for build coats, then satin for
>finish coat.  I used the thinned coat of varnish, put tables aside to dry,
>and now two days later they still have not dried.  My son said that is why
>he wanted me to use the sanding sealer.  He said varnished cypress is very
>hard to dry without sanding sealer.
>HELP, what do I do now, any comments????
>Thanks
>PS Live in south Louisiana where humidity is higher than temperature!!!!!
=============================================================

The only difference between the thinned varnish you used for a sealer
and sanding sealer is that sanding sealers have sterates added to make
sanding easier (it powderes up as you sand).  What you read is
accurate, it is recommended to build with gloss for a clearer finished
product, then use the less reflective coating at the end.

 Just give it time and it will dry--------unless----------the material
was old.  Pour some on a piece of glass and check it in a couple of
days to see if it got hard.  Iif it does not then you have a bad
batch.

I have finished quite a bit of old and new cypress with no problems in
this Florida humidity.

Mr. Gaudlin is right on track,  have patience.





Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From austink@voicenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:08:54 EST 1997
Article: 193525 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin Austin <austink@voicenet.com>
Newsgroups: alt.business.import-export,alt.business.import-export.raw-material,rec.woodworking,can.general.,wny.general
Subject: The Irland Group - Eastern Quotes and Comments
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:43:58 -0500
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The Irland Group now has a web presence at
http://www.rctc.com/irland/ - please visit.

The Irland Group issues Eastern Quotes and Comments
on a weekly basis.  EQ & C is the Lumber Market and Price
Newsletter for Northeastern U.S. and Eastern Canada.
Please stop by the above web page for more information.

Thanks.


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:55 EST 1997
Article: 193526 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antiquing hardware (Hinges, screws, etc.)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:46:58 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
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I have heated steel hinges and screws red hot and let them cool
slowly.  This produces a gun metal blue color.  As far as the changes
in the brittleness of the metal, I do not know.  But I have had none
come back.

On Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:18:47 GMT, gwilce@lindsaycomp.on.ca (Gary
Wilce) wrote:

>Does anyone know how to give an antigue (i.e. old, corroded, darkened)
>look to new hinges and srews.  I think there is a mild corrosive that
>can be used safely but I'm not sure what it is or how to use it.



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From brems@win.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:57 EST 1997
Article: 193527 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas Bremer" <brems@win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Upside-down router
Date: 30 Mar 1997 09:08:55 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Wisconsin
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I had this same problem also.  When done for the day, remove router and
clean all the debris from the internal housing.  Few manufacturers protect
the underside for this application.  I built speaker cabinets for 9 years
and found that the Milwaukee 2hp was the only router that had good debris
protection.  Make sure to find the source of the noise (usually wood
scraps) I've had several brands fly apart while using them.  Also try to
make your table bit opening as small as possible-this helps a great deal.

Tom

Bob & Suzy  <booger&@yadtel.Net> wrote in article
<5hj5m1$iev@news1.infoave.net>...
> I just finished building a router table, and put my craftsman 1/4" router
in 
> it. After using it a few times, I noticed it made a new noise when I
turned it 
> off, like the bearings are too tight. 
> 


From barss@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU Wed Apr  2 12:08:57 EST 1997
Article: 193528 of rec.woodworking
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From: barss@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 17:25:14 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <009B207D.1E46D0F0@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193528

In article <haver-2503971244280001@130.189.40.12>, haver@dartmouth.edu (Rick Haver) writes:
>In article <33363A49.493@skylink.net>, paperboy@skylink.net wrote:
>
>Maybe it's a stupid question, but why did the old time craftsmen prefer
>darker finishes? I see so many great older pieces, with lots of
>indivdual style and care, but all seem so dark. Was that the only or the
>best option back then?
>
>***********
>
>Mike,
>
>Hey, there's no stupidity here. Just humble opinions.
>
>I know a large part is fashion. The vogue for light colored woods is a blip,
>I believe. Other than the scandinavian styles of the '50s I believe most
>other periods preferred dark woods. Witness the dark, dark colors on
>mission oak, the dark, clunky Mediterrean stuff, the Age of Mahogany, 
>the Age of Walnut from the 1700's and 1800's. These woods may have
>been chosen for reasons other than color but there's no arguing they're dark. 
>
>And, of course, some woods darken in time, especially cherry and maybe oak.
>
>I must admit to a recent preference for maple myself, tho.
>
>Rick

	You also have to consider larger forces at work.  Prior to
the industrial revolution, there were fewer dust particles in the
atmosphere, so the light from the sun was typically brighter
than it is today.  So, the woods that look so dark to us now, looked
significantly lighter to the original craftsmen who built the classical
furniture of the 18th and 19th centuries.  The main reason Scandinavian
furniture has consistently always been light-colored is simply because
those countries are far enough North that sunlight has always been
moderately weak up there.

	-- Andrew Barss, who firmly believes it's all a matter
of perspective.








From tpcassc@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:08:58 EST 1997
Article: 193529 of rec.woodworking
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From: TPC <tpcassc@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grape vine scroll work
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:26:40 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193529

Antique bassenet with decorative scroll work which is broken and need
replacement.  anybody have a source for grape vine or an idea on how to
have the work done.  The scroll work is about four turns on each end.

Thanks  please email

Tom


From art.mulder@ualberta.ca* Wed Apr  2 12:08:59 EST 1997
Article: 193530 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news
From: art.mulder@ualberta.ca* (Art Mulder)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,news.answers,rec.answers
Subject: rec.woodworking Introduction FAQ (updated: 27/Jan/97)
Supersedes: <ww-intro_859194721@rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 31 Mar 1997 09:12:24 GMT
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Lines: 194
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <ww-intro_859799521@rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca>
Reply-To: art.mulder@ualberta.ca* (Art Mulder)
NNTP-Posting-Host: rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca
Summary: An introduction to the newsgroup, pointer to resources, etc.
Keywords: FAQ introduction
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193530 news.answers:96686 rec.answers:29123

Archive-name: woodworking/introduction
Last-modified: 27 Jan 1997
Posting-Frequency: weekly
URL: http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Introduction.txt

CONTENTS:
  1) Where are the FAQ's
  2) Where are the WWW archive sites
  3) Where are rec.woodworking articles archived?
  4) Pointers to related newsgroups and resources.
  5) Pointers for Beginners
     5.1) Posting Binaries

  This FAQ is intended to point readers to woodworking resources
  available on the Internet.  The newsgroup sees a lot of repeat
  traffic; please check out these resources before posting.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
1) The following relevant FAQ's are available:

    rec.woodworking Introduction 			<This Document>
    rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Addresses 
    rec.woodworking Steambending wood Frequently asked Questions 
    rec.woodworking Electric Motors Frequently asked Questions 
    rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Tool Reviews 
    rec.woodworking Frequently Asked Questions 
    Electrical Wiring FAQ [Part 1/ Part 2] 
    FAQ: Crib and Cradle Safety Regulations 
    FAQ: Hand Tools
    Cabinet Saw FAQ
    Tung Oil FAQ

  These FAQ's are posted regularly (usually monthly) to this newsgroup.
  Most are also crossposted to news.answers and rec.answers.  A well
  configured site should keep all postings to the *.answers news groups
  for at least 30 days before expiring them.  Therefore, you should
  always be able to find these FAQ's in your news spool.  (If you
  can't, ask your sysadmin, but read on, there are other options.)

  There exist several Usenet FAQ archive sites.  To find out more about
  them and how to access them, please see the "Introduction to the
  *.answers newsgroups" posting in news.answers.

  The main FAQ ftp archive is at rtfm.mit.edu.  If you do not have access
  to anonymous ftp, you can retrieve FAQ's from there via a mail server.
  To find out more send a message to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with
  the command "send help" in the message body.  (Responses may take
  several hours.)

  FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW.  One main WWW FAQ archive
  site is at: http://www.smartpages.com/faqs/

  The "main" rec.woodworking archive is maintained by Jim Roche, and
  can be accessed at
	http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html
	ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/

  In addition to those "general purpose" FAQ's, more focussed 
  special purpose documents (eg: a Workbench FAQ, Wood toxicity table,
  etc) are also available, and continually being developed.  Browse
  some of the Woodworking web pages (like Jim Roche's above) 
  to find them.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
2) Woodworking information on the WWW:

  There are many Woodworking pages on the WWW.  I can't expect to keep
  track of all of them, so here are just a few links to get you started.
  Check them for further links to other Woodworking pages, or check an
  indexing service like Yahoo or Lycos.

  http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/wood.html
	- Jim Roches' pages -- the "main" rec.woodworking archive
  http://www.iucf.indiana.edu/~brown/hyplan/wood.html	
	- Robert Brown's "W^5: WoodWorking on the World Wide Web"
  http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html
	- Allan Fisher's "The Electronic Neanderthal" (Hand tool focus)

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
3) Where are rec.woodworking articles archived?	

  There are three services (that I am aware of) that archive
  rec.woodworking articles.  Between the three of them you can
  search through up to a years worth of postings.  These archives
  are a wonderful way to look up old posts, and avoid restarting a
  discussion that just got finished.

  3.1) The Listserv Archive 
  
  Approximately the last 12 months of postings to rec.woodworking is
  archived by a listserv at LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU

  This archive can be searched via commands sent in email.  
  I have made available an example/tutorial document on using the 
  Listserv at http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/rec.ww.Listserv.txt
 
  For more detailed information on accessing the database, send the
  command "INFO DATABASE" to LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU

  3.2) Dejanews Research Service               http://www.dejanews.com/

  Dejanews archives many Usenet newsgroups.  They archive up to a
  year's worth of news, depending on the newsgroup.

  3.3) Alta Vista			  http://altavista.digital.com/

  Alta Vista is a Research project of Digital's Palo Alto labs.
  They provide a full-text index of over 13,000 USENET newsgroups,
  and also a full-text index to over 16,000,000 web pages.

  They index 'current' news -- which seems to amount to roughly a
  month of rec.woodworking, as near as I could discover.  This is
  still a very useful archive to search for recent rec.ww articles.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
4) Pointers to related newsgroups and resources.

  Perhaps this newsgroup's focus isn't quite what you are looking for.
  If so, Maybe one of these other newsgroups will have what you are
  looking for.

  comp.home.automation 	  Home automation devices, setup, sources, etc.
  misc.consumers          Consumer interests, product reviews, etc.
  misc.consumers.house    Discussion about owning and maintaining a house.
  alt.home.repair 	  Created by someone who didn't know about m.c.h
  alt.building.*	  There are 10 or so building-industry groups.
  rec.crafts.metalworking All aspects of working with metal.
  rec.crafts.carving      Carving and its techniques.
  rec.crafts.woodturning  Woodturning and turned objects.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
5) Some Pointers for Beginners

  If you are a complete beginner to the whole world of Usenet
  (electronic news), I encourage you to make the time to read the
  handful of very informative postings in the 'news.announce.newusers'
  newsgroup.  They are an invaluable help.

  rec.woodworking has a fair amount of traffic.  To those people who
  have trouble with the volume of this group, a few suggestions that
  may help:

    Learn and use a good-quality newsreader, like tin, trn, nn,
    and others.  These all have powerful display mechanisms that
    can show you "threads" of conversation, searching, sorting, and
    the ability to automatically select or deselect articles (aka
    "kill files").  A good newsreader makes it much easier to read
    a high-volume newsgroup.

    If your newsreader can't follow threads or doesn't have automatic
    selection/killing of articles then...

		  Your Software Is Broken.  Fix It.

        [paraphrased from one of Chris Lewis' well written postings.]

  And also:

    [This advice is the same for just about any newsgroup.]

    Read the FAQ's, lurk, listen, and learn.  Use good titles on your
    posts, refrain from "me too" posts, and handle personal matters
    via email.  

    Please remember that flaming someone wastes bandwidth, accomplishes
    little, and certainly doesn't improve the newsgroup.
	[based on a posting by Robert Sorrels (rsorrels@lewiston.com)]

5.1) Posting Binaries

  The question has come up recently about posting binaries to the 
  rec.woodworking newsgroup.  

  I quote briefly from the FAQ "How to find the right place to post"
  which is posted to the news.announce.newusers newsgroup.  See that
  FAQ for a more full explanation.
  (You HAVE read all of those FAQ's, haven't you!?)

    "There are many newsgroups dedicated to posting various sorts of
     binary files, such as images, computer software, etc.  These are
     gathered under the alt.binaries.* and comp.binaries.* hierarchies.
     (There are also some local binaries hierarchies, such as
     de.alt.binaries.*)  These groups are the only places where you
     should ever post a file that is not directly human-readable,
     such as pictures, software, or even Microsoft Word files"

-----
To send me email, you must remove the "*" from the above email address.
I regret this action, but it is necessary to defeat Junk Email robots. 

-- 
...art mulder ( art.mulder@ualberta.ca )( http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/ )
              ( Sys Admin / Support Analyst, Network Resources )
              ( Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton )


From art.mulder@ualberta.ca* Wed Apr  2 12:09:00 EST 1997
Article: 193531 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news
From: art.mulder@ualberta.ca* (Art Mulder)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: SPLIT FAQ: Let's Split This Group! (Updated: 28 Feb 97)
Supersedes: <ww-split_859194721@rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 31 Mar 1997 09:12:26 GMT
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Message-ID: <ww-split_859799521@rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca>
Reply-To: art.mulder@ualberta.ca* (Art Mulder)
NNTP-Posting-Host: rockpile.ucs.ualberta.ca
Summary: A half-serious half-tongue-in-cheek look at this issue
Keywords: FAQ Split
Lines: 114
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193531

Last-modified: 28 Feb 1997
Posting-Frequency: weekly
URL: http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/Split.txt

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
My half-serious, half-tongue-in-cheek look at this issue

IN BRIEF:

  This discussion comes up regularly.  So far, the consensus has been
  no.  You don't need to take my word for it.  Go to www.dejanews.com
  and search the archives.  Try seaching for "Split This Group".

  Just over a year ago (Feb 18, 1996) a Straw Poll was held
  on splitting the group.  The motion was defeated 99:51.
  I dug the results out of dejanews and you can find them at
  http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/wood/Strawpoll.txt


IN DETAIL:

  Forget it.  I'm not going to repeat it all again!  Go dig it out
  of the dejanews archives yourselves, sheesh.

  Ok ok, here's some of the points:

  - If the group is split, we may be "forced" to move under the
    rec.crafts.* hierarchy.  That's where rec.crafts.woodturning 
    and rec.crafts.carving are located, for example.

  - a lot of people like the variety in rec.ww.  We discuss tools,
    finishing, techniques, and so on.  If you split the group we'd lose
    some of that cross-fertilization.  The woodturning and carving
    groups were just formed in mid '96 and some people view that as a
    'loss' to rec.ww

  - How to structure a split is always being argued about, from 
    the serious suggestions like:
      1) rec.ww.misc / rec.ww.tools (both power and hand)
      2) rec.ww.misc / rec.ww.hand-tools / rec.ww.power-tools
    to the, ahem, not-so-serious suggestions:
      3) rec.ww / rec.ww.split.this.group.again

  - Some people feel that a lot of the 'excessive traffic' is caused by
    people who don't read the FAQ's, don't check the archives, and
    therefore bring up the same topic again and again.  Witness the fact
    that we've seen a "split the group" thread start not 3 days after
    another identical thread (but a different subject line) started.
    The first thread might not even be finished yet.

  There are lots more points made repeatedly, both pro and con.


WHAT SHOULD I DO?

  - Read the FAQ's.  How many times do we have to say that?
  - Learn and use a qood-quality newsreader.
  - Make use of the archives at www.dejanews.com
  - Lurk, Listen, and Learn.

  or

  - Ignore this FAQ and start another "let's split this group"
    thread anyway.


WHAT IS THE ACTUAL VOLUME: 		[ My research as of Feb 28/97 ]

  Rec.woodworking receives an average 200 posts per day.

  * First I went into our news spool, and totaled all the rec.ww posts
    from Feb 19 through Feb 27 inclusive.  Divided by 9 days reveals
    an average of 218 posts per day.

  * Next I went to www.dejanews.com and asked the archive to build a
    "filter list" of all the rec.ww articles from July 1, 1996 through
    January 31, 1997.  Seven months, 215 days.  I was presented with a
    list of 42,176 articles, which divides out to 196 articles per day.

  I also arbitrarily picked one days worth of rec.ww articles (Feb
  25, a fairly heavy day with 263 articles) and totaled up the disk
  space that it occupied: 1.19 Megabytes.

---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------

DISCLAIMER:

  This is my position as of Feb 1997:
  I do not think that rec.ww needs a split.
  
  I use 'nn' on a Unix system to read news.  On an average day
  it takes me about 15 minutes to work through the rec.woodworking
  newsgroup, which I do not find excessive.

  NN works by sorting all the articles in the newsgroup by subject,
  and then presenting you with a list of articles to choose from,
  one per line, showing the author, subject, and article length.
  At just over 25 lines per "screenfull" it takes me only 8 screens
  to browse through the 200 articles that arrive each day.  I then
  pick and choose which ones I want to read.

  I read news on-line.  Off-line readers will obviously have to
  contend with the time that it takes them to download the days worth
  of rec.ww articles, unless they have software which allows them to
  choose which articles to download.

-----
To send me email, you must remove the "*" from the above email address.
I regret this action, but it is necessary to defeat Junk Email robots. 

-- 
...art mulder ( art.mulder@ualberta.ca )( http://www.ualberta.ca/~amulder/ )
              ( Sys Admin / Support Analyst, Network Resources )
              ( Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton )


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:01 EST 1997
Article: 193532 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!198.69.72.10!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:09:45 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <333f7f51.19166957@news.gulf.net>
References: <5hjd7a$ibp@news.nstn.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: octopus4.pcola.gulf.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193532


Mr. White,


To quote from the USDA Forest Service Agriculture Handbook #72

Tamarack

Tamarack (Larix laricina) is a small to medium sized tree with a
straight, round, slightly tapered trunk.  In the United States it
grows from Maine to Minnesota, with the bulk of the stand in the Lake
States.  It was formerly used in considerable quanity for lumber, but
in recent years production for that purpose has been small.

The heartwood of tamarack is yellowish brown to russet brown.  The
sapwood is whitish, generally less than an inch wide.  The wood is
coarse in texture, without odor or taste, and the transition from
earlywood to latewood is abrupt.  The wood is intermediate in weight
and in most mechanical properties.  

Tamarack is used principally for pulpwood, lumber, railroad crossties,
mine timber, fuel, fenceposts, and poles.  Lumber goes into framing
material, tank construction, and boxes, pallets, and crates.

end of quote

In another source I see that tamarack is moderately resistant to
decay.

Hope this helps,  I have more if you need.
====================================================
====================================================

On 29 Mar 1997 15:41:30 GMT, dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David
White) wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
>it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
>considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
>wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
> to share about this species?
>
>Thank You
>David White



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:02 EST 1997
Article: 193533 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!198.69.72.10!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:05:08 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <333f7bc5.18258937@news.gulf.net>
References: <5hjd7a$ibp@news.nstn.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: octopus4.pcola.gulf.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193533


Mr. White,


To quote from the USDA Forest Service Agriculture Handbook #72

Tamarack

Tamarack (Larix laricina) is a small to medium sized tree with a
straight, round, slightly tapered trunk.  In the United States it
grows from Maine to Minnesota, with the bulk of the stand in the Lake
States.  It was formerly used in considerable quanity for lumber, but
in recent years production for that purpose has been small.

The heartwood of tamarack is yellowish brown to russet brown.  The
sapwood is whitish, generally less than an inch wide.  The wood is
coarse in texture, without odor or taste, and the transition from
earlywood to latewood is abrupt.  The wood is intermediate in weight
and in most mechanical properties.  

Tamarack is used principally for pulpwood, lumber, railroad crossties,
mine timber, fuel, fenceposts, and poles.  Lumber goes into framing
material, tank construction, and boxes, pallets, and crates.

end of quote

In another source I see that tamarack is moderately resistant to
decay.

Hope this helps,  I have more if you need.
====================================================
====================================================

On 29 Mar 1997 15:41:30 GMT, dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David
White) wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
>it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
>considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
>wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
> to share about this species?
>
>Thank You
>David White



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:03 EST 1997
Article: 193534 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!zephyr.texoma.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!198.69.72.10!cobia.gulf.net!usenet
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:12:59 GMT
Organization: The Gulf Coast Internet Company
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <333f800c.19353318@news.gulf.net>
References: <5hjd7a$ibp@news.nstn.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: octopus4.pcola.gulf.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193534

 
Mr. White,


To quote from the USDA Forest Service Agriculture Handbook #72

Tamarack

Tamarack (Larix laricina) is a small to medium sized tree with a
straight, round, slightly tapered trunk.  In the United States it
grows from Maine to Minnesota, with the bulk of the stand in the Lake
States.  It was formerly used in considerable quanity for lumber, but
in recent years production for that purpose has been small.

The heartwood of tamarack is yellowish brown to russet brown.  The
sapwood is whitish, generally less than an inch wide.  The wood is
coarse in texture, without odor or taste, and the transition from
earlywood to latewood is abrupt.  The wood is intermediate in weight
and in most mechanical properties.  

Tamarack is used principally for pulpwood, lumber, railroad crossties,
mine timber, fuel, fenceposts, and poles.  Lumber goes into framing
material, tank construction, and boxes, pallets, and crates.

end of quote

In another source I see that tamarack is moderately resistant to
decay.

Hope this helps,  I have more if you need.
====================================================
====================================================

On 29 Mar 1997 15:41:30 GMT, dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David
White) wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
>it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
>considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
>wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
> to share about this species?
>
>Thank You
>David White



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From sillywiz@excession.no.demon.spam.co.please.uk Wed Apr  2 12:09:04 EST 1997
Article: 193535 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!excession.demon.co.no.mass.mail.uk!sillywiz
From: "Keith M. Lucas" <sillywiz@excession.no.demon.spam.co.please.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.toys.cars,rec.toys.lego,rec.toys.misc,rec.travel.air,rec.travel.cruises,rec.travel.europe,rec.travel.usa-canada,rec.video.desktop,rec.video.production,rec.video.satellite.dbs,rec.video.satellite.tvro,rec.woodworking,relcom.commerce.chemical,relcom.com
Subject: Re: Spam does hurt us (Was Re: Nailing Spamers)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:15:49 GMT
Organization: Excession
Message-ID: <E7t0qD.Iru@excession.no.demon.spam.co.please.uk>
References: <5f9kua$s47@news1-alterdial.uu.net> <331dc649.5712749@news.structured.net> <5flaqr$kic@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com> <333C2336.332D@vabch.com>
X-Mail2News-User: news@excession.demon.co.uk
X-Mail2News-Path: relay-11.mail.demon.net!relay-10.mail.demon.net!excession.demon.co.uk
Lines: 23
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.toys.cars:49918 rec.toys.lego:50161 rec.toys.misc:137468 rec.travel.air:101515 rec.travel.cruises:51609 rec.travel.europe:107083 rec.travel.usa-canada:72745 rec.video.desktop:38922 rec.video.production:59076 rec.video.satellite.dbs:72656 rec.video.satellite.tvro:49431 rec.woodworking:193535 relcom.commerce.chemical:70090

In article <333C2336.332D@vabch.com>, MrCynick  <mrcynick@vabch.com> wrote:
>
>We can do something about spam.  There needs to be legislation similar
>to that regulating telephone sales, to prohibit spammers from using
>false names & addresses, and to require that they honor requests from
>newsgroups and individuals not to send them any more spam.
>

This would be lovely. Which country should pass this law ?

Because the minute the US does so, the spammers will move offshore.

Anyway honouring remove requests is no good -- one should not have
to pay the costs of an unrequested service and then have to pay the
costs of requesting that the service no longer arrive unrequested.

----------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
"It's not a personality.. it's a bulldozer"   | Current project: Computer
sillywiz at excession dot demon dot co dot uk | wargaming's next generation...
----------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
IQ test in my email address. Humans can solve it to reply, spambots can't (yet)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From tdcraft@www.kotis.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:05 EST 1997
Article: 193536 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!newsfeed.dacom.co.kr!news.kotis.net!news
From: Jeff Kim <tdcraft@www.kotis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cordless nailing tool
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:35:40 -0800
Organization: 3D Craft Corporation
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3340909C.3693@www.kotis.net>
Reply-To: tdcraft@www.kotis.net
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Is there a cordless (rechargeable) tool that can strike nails on wood
without electric power.

Need information.  

Please fax 82-2-555-5859 or email tdcraft@kotis.net

Jeff


From janeaustin@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:06 EST 1997
Article: 193537 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: janeaustin@aol.com (JaneAustin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: 31 Mar 1997 11:48:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <19970331114800.GAA27562@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <333f6d75.14595330@news.gulf.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193537

To 'stkyfingr@aol.com': The point is, your health and safety. Not taking
adequate precautions can lead to nasty consequences, sometimes not always
immediately obvious. For example, several men here worked with a certain
chemical. Years later, nearly every one of their babies had major birth
defects. The chemical has since been banned from this site.

Having once woke up in ICU from inhaling too much organic vapors (the
motors on that hood were shut down and the smell wasn't great), I can
assure you that chemical safety should be taken with extreme seriousness. 

A blade may cut off a finger or two, but a chemical can wreck havoc for
generations. Think about it.

Jane
++++++++++++++++++++++



Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:22:56 GMT
Message-ID: <333f6d75.14595330@news.gulf.net>

On 28 Mar 1997 23:01:58 GMT, stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr) wrote:

>So, what was the point of this posting?
>
>Sticky Fingers
=======================================


Mr. Fingers,

Are you refering to the point of your posting or mine?  

If you are questioning the point/reason of my posting regarding
methlyene chloride, I suggest you read it as the answer is contained
therein.  I also intend to post regarding acetone, toulene, methanol,
and other woodworking related materials because I feel it is important
to know what we are using, some of the dangers involved, and how to
neutralize those dangers.  For example, if one had a weak heart,
working with methylene chloride could have very damaging effects as
the carbon dioxide is converted to cabon monoxide in the blood,  just
as working with it or other chemicals could have damaging effects on
an unborn child.

If you are, however, refering to the point of your own posting, I
cannot answer that.

Allow me to remind you that newsreaders, even the one provided through
AOL, has a reply function which allows quoted text to appear.  It is
considered good manners to post a portion of the text to which you are
replying.  This allows all those around the world who read your post
to understand what it is that you are responding to without having to
search.  All newsreaders and newservers vary somewhat as to retention
of messages so you can see that quoted text is necessary, helpful, and
considerate.

This newsgroup is composed of friendly, literate, helpful people who
freely give their time to help each other excell in their efforts to
work with wood, exchange information, techniques, methods, sources,
and assist in problem solving.

 Nowhere is there room or need for rudeness, abruptness, or over
inflated egos.  I have only been working with wood and finishing since
1969 with pay, and still have a lot to learn.  It is through mediums
such as this, with its concentration of knowledgable persons in the
woodworking arena that I find most rewarding and helpful to me.  


From clarke@acheron.cilia.org Wed Apr  2 12:09:07 EST 1997
Article: 193538 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!acheron!clarke
From: clarke@acheron.cilia.org (Ed Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1/4" Raised Pannel Router Bit
Date: 31 Mar 1997 11:53:53 GMT
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <slrn5jv9eh.1c.clarke@acheron.cilia.org>
References: <333F0FB1.25FF@ibm.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193538

In article <333F0FB1.25FF@ibm.net>, Jay Sultan wrote:
>In e-mail with them, they say that it cannot be done safely.  But other
>manufactuers do sell such bits.
>Yes, I should buy a 4HP 220v router or something, but until then ... ;)

Up your insurance and keep some duct tape handy in the shop to hold your
guts in while you try to drive to the hospital.  There are less painful
ways to kill yourself.


From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:09:07 EST 1997
Article: 193539 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!sympatico.ca!not-for-mail
From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based stain on veneer?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 06:51:04 -0500
Organization: HY Creations
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <333FA528.169E@sympatico.ca>
References: <01bc3b2d$ac98e680$2785d6ce@steveg> <333F0AF1.66CD@frontiernet.net>
Reply-To: henry.douglas@sympatico.ca
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To: Wayne Weber <wweber@frontiernet.net>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193539

Wayne Weber wrote:
> 
> Woody wrote:
> >
> > I'm about to tackle my first try with veneer on a tabletop.  Should I worry
> > that a water-based stain will make my veneer totally warp and buckle? (fyi:
> > mahogany veneer)
> > --
> > sgrabin@ix.netcom.com
> 
> Depends on the  source of your stain.  If it's commercial, some of the
> brands have less than 10% water in them, so it shouldn't be a
> problem--test first on scrap!  It you are making it yourself, and you
> still have the powder, just use alcohol as a solvent instead of water
> and don't saturate the veneer.
> --
> Wayne Weber
> W-W Finishing Supplies
> 38 Partridge Hill, Honeoye Falls, NY 14472
> 1-800-836-8424

Flecto Coatings Ltd., manufacturers of Varathane products make Diamond
Wood Stains, a water-based stain that colours and seals the wood.  They
come in 12 wood stain colours and 16 custom tinted colours.  They should
be available at your local hardware store.  Water-based stains MAY raise
the grain in some woods.  DON'T sand the raised grain off.  Buff lightly
with a scotch-brite pad.  Sandpaper will take some of the colour out of
the stain where scotch-brite pads won't.  I don't usually sand the
fuzzies off.  I add Varathane Elite Diamond Finish over the top of the
stain with the grain raised.  The first two coats will fill in the
fuzzies and the final third coat will give you the finish you are
looking for.  Elite Diamond Finish comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss
and can be applied two hours after you stain.

Hope this helps.

Henry


From jenglish@email.cobsweb.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:08 EST 1997
Article: 193540 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!mr.net!netnews.com!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!drn
From: jenglish@email.cobsweb.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: need info on planemakers
Date: 30 Mar 1997 16:59:57 -0800
Organization: None
Lines: 8
Sender: usenet@sdrn.zippo.com
Message-ID: <5hn2ad$fvc@lori.zippo.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193540

would anyone have information on the following planemakers:
The planes are marked as follows:
F. Towbridge
Mockridge & Son
H.W. Conner & Co.   Charleston

Thanks,
Jim English


From Tom Hamilton                      frogman@mnsi.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:09 EST 1997
Article: 193541 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!drn
From: Tom Hamilton                      frogman@mnsi.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Please send E-mail
Date: 30 Mar 1997 14:12:19 -0800
Organization: None
Lines: 13
Sender: usenet@sdrn.zippo.com
Message-ID: <5hmog3$btf@lori.zippo.com>
References: <01bc3b16$175384c0$22be73cf@default> <19970330204800.PAA11806@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193541

In article , jbobst@aol.com says...
>
>Hope this gets through OK
>
>Joe Bobst
############################

Hi Joe:
Your posting to rec woodworking arrived OK..

Keep an eye on aol.com and their billing practices....

.frogman


From owenea@aur.alcatel.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:10 EST 1997
Article: 193542 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news01.aud.alcatel.com!aur.alcatel.com!not-for-mail
From: owenea@aur.alcatel.com (Eddie A. Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plank Hardwood Floors
Date: 31 Mar 1997 13:04:46 GMT
Organization: Alcatel Network Systems, Inc Raleigh, NC
Lines: 31
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <5hocpe$t5l$1@aurwww.aur.alcatel.com>
References: <01bc3937$435bb780$4a3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>
Reply-To: owenea@aur.alcatel.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: aurscq.aur.alcatel.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193542

In article <01bc3937$435bb780$4a3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, "bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net> writes:
>I plan on installing about 1000 sq. ft of plank hardwood floors in a new
>house.  The sub-floor is 5/4 KD T&G pine.  The hardwood will be KD T&G 5 to
>7 inches wide random length.
>
>My question is:  Should I install felt paper between the sub-floor and
>finished flooring?
>
>I will be using screws and plugging the hardwood.  However, I want to make
>sure I don't have any squeaks.
>
>Any suggestions or advice?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Bill Compton
>bcompton@megalink.net
>

 Yes, use 15-lb felt paper for a vapor barrier. If you know you have real
moisture problems, e.g., a very wet crawlspace, you can put one or two coats
of marine varnish on the underside of the planks. Again, for moisture barrier.

 As far as sqeaks go, I think this condition is more a function of how far
apart you space your screws. Squeaks will develop in places that get more
travel (in front of refrigerator) so place screws closer together in these areas. 

Eddie Owens
Cary, NC




From 73257.2074@CompuServe.COM Wed Apr  2 12:09:11 EST 1997
Article: 193543 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jean Heroux <73257.2074@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water-based stain on veneer?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 13:14:38 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <5hodbv$k9a$1@mhafc.production.compuserve.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193543

> I'm about to tackle my first try with veneer on a tabletop.  Should I
> worry that a water-based stain will make my veneer totally warp and
> buckle? (fyi: mahogany veneer)

I've had a bad experience staining an old chest with aniline dye. The
veneer did buckle and warp. However, the glue was probably hide glue,
and it didn't hold up well at all to water. I guess the answer to your
problem depends on what kind glue you used under the veneer.


From jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:12 EST 1997
Article: 193544 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!hermes.louisville.edu!hermes-x.louisville.edu!not-for-mail
From: jason Steward <jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Opinion on Grizzley 6" Jointer wanted
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:08:32 +0000
Organization: university of louisville
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <333F7100.6D2D@homer.louisville.edu>
References: <19970330133501.IAA17533@ladder01.news.aol.com> <5hm7t2$d7m@news.proaxis.com>
Reply-To: jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu
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To: Dave Traut <davet@proaxis.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193544

Dave Wrote:
Anyone care to share their experience with the Grizzly 6" joiner?


I own the grizzly.  Make sure you get the magnaset knife setter as 
well.  Very nice machine.  Shipping was $60 some.  I bought it for the 
long bed as well.  I really like the lever action for moving the 
infeed or outfeed beds.  I have had problems with other machines that 
use wheels (gunking up, jamming).  I really like the ground fence, 
sure beats the heck out of those aluminum ones.  Very stable machine 
(weighs alot), and one of the quietest ones I have used (doesn't 
require ear plugs).  I definitely recommend it.  It is the best 
machine I have bought from Grizzly.  

jhs


Any unsolicited commercial e-mail sent to this address is subject to a 
$500 download and archival fee.  Sending of any such mail is 
acceptance of this agreement.


From pbonnell@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:13 EST 1997
Article: 193545 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Peter Bonnell" <pbonnell@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 13:29:59 GMT
Organization: Cincinnati Bell - Fuse Internet Access
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <01bc3dd8$5d427d00$2f9410d0@peter>
References: <333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com> <01bc3ca4$6997f240$LocalHost@danielle>
NNTP-Posting-Host: orinoco-27.fuse.net
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193545

I agree, TurboCad is easy to use an contains many features of high end (and
expensive) cad programs. I got my copy for $89 which includes a 3-D modeler
and have been very happy with it. The only down side is that the manuals
could be a little more complete. Thier Web sight http://www.imsisoft.com
used to contain a evaluation copy for download so you could give it a try.

Daniel Le <ledaniel@inwave.com> wrote in article
<01bc3ca4$6997f240$LocalHost@danielle>...
> I used a program by IMSI called Turbocad 3.0.  It sells for about $99.  I
> have not used any other programs so I can't compare this program to
others
> for you, but I find it easy to use.
> 
> Bill Davis Jr. <billd@ssnet.com> wrote in article
> <333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com>...
> > All,
> > 	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> > designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> > experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
> > 
> > Any advice would be helpful
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > Bill D
> > billd@ssnet.com
> > 
> > 
> 


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:14 EST 1997
Article: 193546 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:56:14 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <5hofpu$r2a@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <jonaw-2103972240440001@208.142.81.39> <haubert.218.0017EAA2@mbi.org> <tip-250397163125@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <5hc1ot$hf2@fido.asd.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193546

On a cabinet, the top usually has the grain running the long way and no 
trim in back right?  The piece of trim in the front, with its grain also 
running the long way will change dimension exactly the same as the 
material of the top so at the two miters, there's no discrepancy.  The sides 
will probably have their grain at right angles to the trim so that's 
where the problem occures.  By anchoring the trim in front at the miter 
and letting it "sleep" on the dovetails, the discrepancy in dimensional 
change between the sides and the side trim will show up as a projection 
of the trim past the back of the cabinet when the sides shrink.  This 
approach should put NO strain on the miters.

rhg


In article <5hc1ot$hf2@fido.asd.sgi.com>,
Mike McDonald <mikemac@engr.sgi.com> wrote:
>In article <tip-250397163125@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu>,
>	tip@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>> In article <haubert.218.0017EAA2@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org wrote:
>
>>> Well, I'm curious.  How did they do it?
>> 
>> Molding generally implies cross grain...   The horizontal molding has the
>> grain running the long way, attached to boards with the grain running "up
>> and down" at 90 degrees.  If you jsut nail it, the changes in the width of
>> the carcass will cause problems.  So, you attach the molding using sliding
>> dovetails, with buttons on the carcass and the slots in the molding.  Thus,
>> when the carcass changes dimension, it doesn't rip the nails out... it just
>> slides along.
>> 
>> Tom
>
>  This got me to thinking again (bad sign!). If you attach the molding on a
>sliding mount so it can expand, won't it either gap or pressure the end pieces?
>I'm think of something like on a table. (I'm building a desk, so it's relevant
>to me.) Seems like where the two molding pieces meet at the mitre would be a
>problem area.
>
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com




From beergut@icenter.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:14 EST 1997
Article: 193547 of rec.woodworking
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From: beergut <beergut@icenter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Plan
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 07:55:30 -0600
Organization: MTS Internet Services
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <333FC252.6B@icenter.net>
References: <01bc3d58$fd64f680$6a42cfa9@tjandt.execpc.com> <333F265C.4C6A@concentric.net>
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C.E.(Chuck)Ring wrote:
> > Does anyone out there have *ANY* plans for building a workbench for the
> > garage?
> > I'm looking to build something with some drawers to store nails, screws,
 Well I sorta like the one in the febuary issue of the family handyman.
It has alot of good ideas incorporated into it, and is versitile enough
that you can build it to suit your needs
hope this helps

regards beergut


From jschlee@tir.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:15 EST 1997
Article: 193548 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!mr.net!newsfeed.direct.ca!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tir.com!not-for-mail
From: Jim Schlee <jschlee@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table-mounted router switch
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:54:28 -0500
Organization: The Internet Ramp
Lines: 22
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Not even remotely resembling an electrician, I hope someone can help me
with this problem...

I have a Makita 3612C mounted in an extension table on my Delta CS. I
picked up a Delta new-style on/off TS switch (cheap) that I planned on
using for the router (plug the switch into an outlet, plug the router
into the short female cord on the switch, lock the router switch to 'on'
& use the Delta switch to control the router on/off). I had to cut off &
replace the female plug on the Delta switch - it was made for their TS
motor & looks like the type used for a computer power cord:

			---      instead of:	 O
		    ---     ---		       |   |

(hope you get the idea). The router works fine except the electric brake
doesn't work when plugged into the switch - router works fine when
plugged straight into the same outlet the TS switch is plugged into.

I'm lost - any ideas???

Thanks in advance,
Jim


From woodwork@ronan.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:16 EST 1997
Article: 193549 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodwork@ronan.net (Joe Johns)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wormdrive saw?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:50:02 GMT
Organization: Woodworking In Western Montana
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"Bear" <eloso@azstarnet.com> wrote:

>Larry,
>
>Worm drive saws have more torque and therefore are less prone to bind up
>cutting framing stock.  These saws are generally used for framing and not
>finish work.

I agree entirely with the first part, however, not with the second.

For years I used the most common of circular saws, where the motor is
either on the left or right of the blade and the handle above the
whole schmeer.  I thought the worm-drives (WD) to be silly, but that
was before I really gave them a chance.

Maintaining control of cut with a WD saw is much easier than with a
CIRC saw.  This is because your hand is actually behind the saw,
pushing it through the material being cut and the slightest degree of
left or right movement is all that's needed, up there by the blade, to
make extremely accurate cuts.

The WD saws are equally adept in either rough framing or finish work
and all that's required to switch between the two modes is a change of
blade types.

I've used both the Makita and Skill 77 but I opt for the Skill 77
because the handle is in a low plain, along with the motor and foot
where the Makita is somewhat elevated in an acute angle to the foot.
It's also heavier which assists in rough cutting but is murder in
overhead or uphill cutting, but you can't have everything (if you did,
where would you put it?).

Cheers,



Joe
Homepage:  http://www.ronan.net/~woodwork
Email:  woodwork@ronan.net
Known on IRC as "Woodchips"

---


From funhog@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:17 EST 1997
Article: 193550 of rec.woodworking
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From: funhog@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TS-Aligner Jr./Hartville Tool
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 06:00:40 -0800
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I noticed that someone bought a TS-jr from Hartville last month.  I have 
had one on backorder for 2 months, what gives?  I am beginning to wonder 
about Hartville Tool.  I bought the TS-Jr on a mystery discount where I 
recieved an extra %15 off.  Could this be too low a price and they want 
to wait me out.  I ordered it in mid Feb they said they were BO'd they 
thought it would ship in one week.  About two weeks later I got a card in 
the mail saying it would ship on March 20.  On March 20 I got another 
card that said they would ship on April 30.  How long should I hold out?

You might want to be careful of Hartville Tool!

Garry


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:18 EST 1997
Article: 193551 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 31 Mar 1997 14:15:36 GMT
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In article <19970329135001.IAA06194@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
   hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry) wrote:
>An effective way to hide the nail holes (regardless if the nails are
>removed after the glue dries)  is to raise a chip with a chisel ( leaving
>one end still attached to the work) and drive the nail under the chip then
>glue the chip back down.

If you are gadget intensive, I believe I saw a Fingernail Chisel in the 
WoodCraft or Garrett Wade catalogue that performs this function.  You strike 
the head of this contraption and it lifts out a "perfect" chip every time 
(according to the caption).  I won't get into the "why would I buy one of 
these when I have a perfectly good chisel already" argument.

Brad W.


From jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:19 EST 1997
Article: 193552 of rec.woodworking
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From: jason Steward <jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:29:51 +0000
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I find it unbelievable that anyone would want to apply polyurethane to 
teak.  This is an oil finish only type of wood.  If it is light 
colored teak (the whole table) use tung oil.  If it is dark, then 
boiled linseed oil.  First try roughing up the damaged area with 400 
grit sandpaper.  Dab a small amount of the oil on the area, and wipe 
off.  If this removes the blemish scuff the entire tabletop and apply 
oil, let sit for 15 minutes and wipe off.  If you want to increase the 
luster and protection for you table, apply many coats.  These coats 
should be applied at least 12 hours appart, but not more than 24 hours 
appart.  

jhs


From pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:19 EST 1997
Article: 193553 of rec.woodworking
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From: pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 14:39:13 GMT
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There is a Craftsman dovetail jig that will do through dovetails and costs 
about $160.  Is anyone using it, using it and liking it, and could I have a 
review of its performance?
Thanks,

Brad W.


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:20 EST 1997
Article: 193554 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to unglue 100 yr old chair ? Carefully, I know but..
Date: 31 Mar 1997 07:41:52 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <5hoifg$svf@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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I agree with R. Klein.  I'd only take it apart if some of the glue joints 
are already loose.  In that case, take it all apart because it makes the 
stripping so much easier.  If all of the joints are tight, refinish it in 
one piece.  Also, considering the age, have you exhausted the 
possibilities of restoring the existing finish?  Cleaning with soap and 
water followed by paint thinner and possibly "reamalgamation" of a 
shellac or lacquer finish would retain more of the historical value.

rhg

In article <333e23fc.28032401@news.gulf.net>,
Robert Klein <bobklein@pcola.gulf.net> wrote:
>Why take it apart?
>
>=====================================================
>
>On 23 Mar 1997 05:08:30 GMT, fp1@aol.com (FP1) wrote:
>
>>My daughter wants me to refinish a rocking chair that she bought recently.
>>It's presumably 100 years old, mission style, kind of rough and  not the
>>best looking thing in the world but ....
>>It's made out of oak planks which were bent to form the arms, the back and
>>the rockers.  I think the oak will be nice once I strip it but to do that
>>I need to take it apart.  It has a few screws - so those are no problem
>>but the back and arms are held by glued dowels.
>>I need advice on how to soften up the glue and any other hints on the
>>refinishing job.
>>Thanks in advance
>>Frankie
>
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Robert Klein
>Robert's Antiques and Restoration
>Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
>how are you going to find time to do it over?
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~




From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:21 EST 1997
Article: 193555 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:43:33 GMT
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billd@ssnet.com (Bill Davis Jr.) wrote:

>All,
>	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
>designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
>experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?

>Any advice would be helpful

>Thanks!

>Bill D
>billd@ssnet.com

Bill, 
    I've used several packages ranging from basic "home" (Turbocad,
etc.) up to professional level.  I would strongly recommend Ashlar's
'Drawingboard'.  When I started using it for furniture and cabinet
design 6-7 years ago it was called Vellum, now Vellum is the
top-of-the-line 3D product and they've renamed the basic 2D product
Drawingboard.  When I first encountered it I believe it retailed for
around $2,000.oo.  Now it sells for $175.oo.  You have to use this
program to believe how easy it is to learn and use.  Comparing this to
the Turbocad genre is like going from a Corvette to a 63 Ford PU.
Clunker city.  You can get more info at http://www.ashlar.com.  And
no, I don't work for them.... :)

Tim



From ptwoods@iafrica.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:22 EST 1997
Article: 193556 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Peter Tennant Woods" <ptwoods@iafrica.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: ROUTER
Date: 31 Mar 1997 14:58:25 GMT
Organization: UUNET Internet Africa
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Hello

What is the best make of routers?
Thanks
Richard Woods
jarwoods@ iafrica.com



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:23 EST 1997
Article: 193557 of rec.woodworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 31 Mar 1997 07:53:19 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <5hoj4v$6f@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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Anybody who told you a Unisaw is worthless either:
 
a.  Knows the particular saw and it is worthless i.e. has been in a fire 
or something or

b.  The want to scare you off so they can pick it up for themselves.

IMHO, even if you had to put a little money into the Unisaw to bring it 
up to snuff, if you have the place for it and can buy it for the cost of 
a new contractor's saw, there's no contest.  Buy it NOW!

rhg



In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>,
Teddy Winstead <winstead@eecs.tulane.edu> wrote:
>Hi there.
>
>I'm really new to woodworking and I'm considering the purchase of a table 
>saw.  I've read the article in this month's FWW, and it didn't help me 
>clear up my confusion very much.  Here's where I stand:
>
>The Ryobi looks really, really nice.  The sliding table and the built-in 
>router mounting make this really appealing.  As far as precision goes, I 
>have heard very few complaints.  However, this saw seems to get a bad rap 
>around here.
>
>The Grizzly leaves me with too many questions.  I have heard many 
>complaints about the fence, and I'd rather not have to deal with mail-order 
>companies if I don't have to.
>
>I've been seeing used Delta Unisaws around here in the newspaper for the 
>same price as the Grizzly or Ryobi, but some people tell me that Delta is 
>worthless.  This really confused me, because I've never heard a bad word 
>about Delta in rec.ww.
>
>So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
>people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
>comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
>-- 
>Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead   |http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
>winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
>Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 
>
>
>
>




From krw@ibm.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:24 EST 1997
Article: 193558 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Keith R. Williams" <krw@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:31:41 -0500
Message-ID: <333F4C3D.C1A@ibm.net>
References: <5h9m24$l9m@scel.sequent.com> <haubert.222.00283DA7@mbi.org>
	 <01bc3b9e$760d83c0$c5ade1cc@kulinek> <haubert.228.001D7EE6@mbi.org> <JeyzTfA6ilPzEwd0@stahelin.demon.co.uk>
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Since the topic of wood floors has been brought up an I'm in the
process
  of planning an upgrade to half of our first floor, I have some
questions.

  My plans are to install ceramic tile to the central hallway (no it's
not
  a mansion, only a cape), downstairs bathroom, and laundry.  The
hallway
  is about 18ft long, between the garage, bathroom, laundry, and guest
  room.  I guess with a runner, I pass the two step rule here. I want
  ceramic here for the ease of cleaning and durability.  We live in 
  Vermont, so there is no shortage of sand, salt, and mud that enters
the
  house.
  
  I'm a DYIer in long standing, so I'm not too afraid of such projects.  
  My question now becomes what to do about the kitchen/dining room area
  at the end of this.  I was thinking of tile, but this would be too 
  sterile.  I want bright (capes are very dark inside) to make it look
  larger.  My thinking is now coming around to wood.  Again, I want
  something light.  We got a sample of a natural maple, but it was too 
  featureless (our kitchen cabnets are the the dark stained cherry).
  I'm leaning t'wards natural red oak.  Bruce makes a pre-finished
product
  that's tempting.  

  This is only in the planning stage (in fact it is likely that the wood
  won't get done this year) so all comments are welcome.  Thanks.
----
  Keith R. Williams
  krw@ibm.net


From whylandj@kodak.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:24 EST 1997
Article: 193559 of rec.woodworking
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From: whylandj@kodak.com (jcw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Vertical Raised Panel Bits
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 14:53:07 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company
Lines: 28
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I'm in the market for the same bit type and from what I've been reading, the 
PC690 motor should have no problem.  Along these same lines, I've read that 
it's better to mount the router horizontally instead of vertical.  This way 
the panel can be layed flat.  I'm doing a number of raised panel doors so the 
time used to build a horizontal table may be well worth it.  Especially if it 
significantly improves the accuracy and finish of the cut.   

Does anyone have experience and/or suggestions for building a horizontal 
router table?

Thanks,
Jeff Whyland
Rochester, NY

Opinions are mine and mine alone.


In article <5himj5$cl7@usenet88.supernews.com>, logic@prairie.lakes.com wrote:
>Hi..
>
>I'd like to know if any of you have any experience using vertical
>raised panel bits in a PC 690 router.  I'm in the process of building
>a pair of raised panel swinging doors in red oak and am debating
>whether I should invest in such a bit or should use the table saw
>to raise the panel instead.
>
>TIA
>Al Hart


From rshelton@wegener.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:25 EST 1997
Article: 193560 of rec.woodworking
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From: Rick Shelton <rshelton@wegener.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Routers & Pressure Treated?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:08:21 -0600
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I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?

Thanks.

-- 
- Rick Shelton

  rshelton@wegener.com


From d89con3@austin.ibm.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:26 EST 1997
Article: 193561 of rec.woodworking
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From: d89con3@austin.ibm.com (Greg Vrana)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: 31 Mar 1997 15:06:00 GMT
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In article <333B4E33.4934@ix.netcom.com>, Bill Pounds <bpounds@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> Robert Crable wrote:
> > 
> > Greg,
> >   Unless you're really hoping to pinch a penny, it's not worth trying to
> > lube them, especially since you already have the motor apart.  Order new
> > ones to fit.  Try Grainger  800-722-3291.  You'll find most of their
> > bearings are $10 to $20 range, pretty cheap if you consider the cost of a
> > new motor.  Just get the numbers off the bearings and let them cross
> > reference them for you.  If you really are hoping to save some money, and
> > a little time now, I usually put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil in the
> > bearings.  They'll last a while, but if you feel any spots that "catch",
> > pitch it and get a new one.
> > <snip>
> 
> I agree, but before you pitch them away, make sure you can get
> replacements. I own a Walker Turner lathe, and the spindle bearings were
> an OEM special item, and no longer available in less than 1000 units. I
> have no idea if other W-T tools are like this.
> 
> If you do cross reference the bearings, ask for sealed instead of
> shielded. They will hold grease and keep out dust permanently.
> 
> -- 
> Bill Pounds

Well I bought new bearings this weekend and the motor now purrs like
a kitten.  The motor, BTW, was made by Clark Electric.  Next, I'm going
to replace the bearings in the belt rollers.  I hadn't thought that the
bearings might not be available though.  I'll be sure to check they are
first.  Thanks for the warning.


-- 

Greg Vrana
d89con3@austin.ibm.com


From explodey2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:27 EST 1997
Article: 193562 of rec.woodworking
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From: explodey2@aol.com (Explodey2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta 560 12" Spotted!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 15:18:54 GMT
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Have been reading (and adding to) posts over the last few months re: will
we ever actually saee the new Delta 560 12" planer. Yes, this Saturday , I
attended a Delta demo at Force Machinery in Union, NJ and saw the 560 12"
planer in real life. I thought it would never be out. It is the nicest
benchtop planer I have seen, very well thought out. I was told that Delta
has shipped them and that they are on the way to distributors. Will sell
suggested $450.They were taking orders. The 540 will continue to be sold
at $350. Might not be for everyone, but I wouldn't buy a benchtop without
seeing this first.

                                                 Steve
 


From aht@mail.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:28 EST 1997
Article: 193563 of rec.woodworking
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From: aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: routers
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:23:23 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
Message-ID: <333ff3f4.123821052@news.bright.net>
References: <01bc394d$74117f20$74b107c4@jarwoods.iafrica.com> <5hnl51$ij8$1@nntp2.ba.best.com>
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>>Hi
>>
>>I would like to know if anyone knows any good links to router pages where I
>>could find infomation on routers?
>>
>>I a thinking of purchasing a router and would like to ask a few questions
>>
>>1.What size chuck(collet)should I get 1/2" or 1/4"?
>>2.What is the best make to purchase?
>>3How versatile are routers actualy? I have heard that they are one of the
>>most versitile machines for the home workshop.
>>
>>Any help or input would be greatly appriciated
>>Thanks
>>Richard Woods

Richard,

Ah yes, the router.

Truly one of the most versatile electric powered woodworking tools I
can think of. I remember the first router I got, a Craftsman. I took
it out of the box, plugged it in, turned it on and WOW what power!! I
should be able to do ANYTHING with this. I put a straight bit in it
and rammed it down into a piece of wood and dug out a burnt channel
that wasn't very straight, but I figured with practice I could cut one
straight as an arrow.....OK, now what??

After the initial facination wore off, I would occasionally cut an
ogee edge along a piece of wood and put it up where I could look at it
for a while. I began to wonder what all the big deal was about
routers. I wasn't really doing anything with it.

It wasn't until I discovered the router table that the true usefulness
of the router began to surface. The router table with a fence and some
feather boards can be many things. It can cut moldings that would cost
a lot to buy at the lumber store. It can cut dadoes and stopped
dadoes. The world of the router finally opened up. I discovered that
out of the router table you need a guide of some sort to cut a
straight line. Template guides can allow you to make the same thing
over and over again. I also discovered that the Craftsman plastic
template guides for their routers were, well pathetic.

A router with a 1/2" collet is the best. The kind that are attached to
their own retaining nut so that you don't have to fool around with
them when you switch to the 1/4" collet is best. A 1 1/2 to 2 hp would
be all you need until you are more comfortable using a router. A big
heavy router table that won't tip over when you push a piece across it
is best. A router can be a dangerous thing, learn about direction of
bit spin vs. direction of cut. Learn about how much you should cut out
at one time among other things and the router will become a truly
versatile machine.

enough of my ramblings, I hope that helps

Al


From rehrauer@apollo.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:29 EST 1997
Article: 193564 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer)
Subject: Wishing for more ww TV shows (was Re: Norm's technique)
Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News)
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:15:43 GMT
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In article <01bc3cc3$4b93d4c0$6985d6ce@steveg> "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>What I think Norm does best is efficiently use the tools he's got.

(Is there a tool he hasn't got?)

I won't pick on Norm.  He's better than I, a newbie wood idiot, am at
what he does.  I sporadically watch the NYWS, and it's entertaining.
I just wish there were more woodworking shows!  The media has been
hyping "500 TV channels" for awhile now; if 30 of them are going to
"home shpping" channels, why can't 5 of them be woodworking channels?

I wish there was a show on hand tool techniques.  I'd love to see some
of the masters you all talk about (Krenov, Kirby, et al) in action.  I
wouldn't mind if they devoted an entire episode (or several) to, say,
sharpening a plane blade.  Or cutting one set of dovetails.  Or
discussing how to deal with wood movement in design.

I wish there was a show on design techniques.  I sometimes look at a
magazine photo of a piece and just think, Wow, how'd they ever think
to do that??  Sure, I know, it's an artform.  But there's certainly
general principles at work, and even an idiot like myself could benefit
>from  them.

I wish there was a show on tuning up power tools, and making the best of
sub-optimal tools (like my crappy Sears tablesaw) and workspaces.  Many of
us could probably do about as well as Norm with a setup like he has.  How
about a "This Old Workshop" show, where the experts spend a couple of
weeks tuning up an average Joe's tools, rearranging stationary power tools
for better workflow, building storage areas, etc?  I'd nominate Scott
Landis to host it. :-)

I wish there was a show on finishing techniques.  I'm midway through
Dresner's book, and a lot of things are starting to make sense now.
I also intend to get Flexner's book.  Last night I watched an episode
of NYWS in which Norm built a small decorative wall mirror with a scroll-
sawed mahogany frame.  In the end, he just drenched the thing with dark
stain and it ended up looking, well, yucky.  I would love to see a
Flexner or a Dresner show how to do justice to such woods.  (I think
Dresner discusses using aniline dyes to add some undertones beneath a
pigmented stain?)

Heck, I'd settle for ONE show that covered topics like that!  --Steve
-- 
---
All software is bug-free, assuming          | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com
 sufficiently clever definitions of         | Massachusetts Language Lab
 "feature" and "expected behaviour".        | USDA Zone 5, more or less


From scoundrl@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:30 EST 1997
Article: 193565 of rec.woodworking
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From: scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cordless nailing tool
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:25:19 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Paslode offers two and possibly three "cordless" nailers, but the are quite
expensive.  They are similar to a gas engine, with propane gas from a small
cylinder being ignited by a spark and forcing the piston downward.  They are
about the same size and configuration as the conventional pneumatic nailers,
with one being for framing and a smaller version being for trim.

I have the Paslode pneumatic framer her at my home and it is a top-quality
product that is extrememly reliable.  The carpenters I know all feel that the
cordless nailers are of equal reliability.

Tom

Jeff Kim <tdcraft@www.kotis.net> wrote:

>Is there a cordless (rechargeable) tool that can strike nails on wood
>without electric power.

>Need information.  

>Please fax 82-2-555-5859 or email tdcraft@kotis.net

>Jeff

Tom Gauldin           Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC             The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404   Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
                               Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.




From rasari@ct2.mai.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:31 EST 1997
Article: 193566 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Richard J. Asarisi" <rasari@ct2.mai.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Radial Arm Saw
Date: 31 Mar 1997 15:06:39 GMT
Organization: North American Internet
Lines: 10
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I have a Craftsman Electronic, 10 with a Forrest blade.  ANy interest?

Rich  I'm in Connecticut


Ross C. Martin <grphcart@gramercy.ios.com> wrote in article
<grphcart-2903970936310001@ppp-70.ts-9.hck.idt.net>...
> Wanted to Buy.  Radial Arm Saw in new or better condition.  10 of 8 1/4. 
> Bench top or w/stand.
> 


From glueman@sure.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:32 EST 1997
Article: 193567 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dung A. Le" <glueman@sure.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:14:56 -0800
Organization: SureNet Corp.
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I've read over and over about comments that hot melt does not provide
permanent bond and that it is only good for temporary bonds.  Has anyone
looked at expensive oak furnitures?  How about table tops?  Read any
good books?  You'll find hot melts holding these things together.  Hot
melt formula varies a lot and there are so much to choose from.  Hot
melt moisture-cure like H.B. Fuller's HL-9527 bonds Polypropylene to
Polypropylene.  If you need more information or have a specific
question, send me an e-mail.

Regards,

Glueman

http://www.sure.net/~glueman


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:33 EST 1997
Article: 193568 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!catfish2.valdosta.peachnet.edu!news
From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mikita Tablesaw "System"
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:40:07 -0500
Organization: Valdosta State University
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193568

Mark Nappi wrote:
> 
> ,
> >I don't think you can find a better saw for $500, or even $700 for that
> >matter.  Check out the current issue of American Woodworking for a
> >review of saws in this price/performance category.
> >
> >-=Paul Worth=-
> >pworth@valdosta.edu
> 
>         Actually for $529 I think the Jet is better.
> 
>         It (the Jet) has a miter guage!!!! a miter guage supports feather
> boards!!! and tenoning jigs!!! And it has a big arbor that supports a dado
> blade!!! without bending the arbor!!! and you can put a full kerf blade on
> it!!! And it has a rated horsepower not amps motor. Cutting 2" maple is no
> big trick putting a 1/2 by 1/2 dado in maple is.
> 
>         FYI I own a Delta but the Delta costs $600 not $500 so I left it out
> of competition. Listen to the salesman BT-3000 is beginner saw. In a couple
> of years you'll want to do more than BT can do. I know two people who have
> and they both want to upgrade.
> 
Actually, the miter SLOTS support feather boards and tenoning jigs.  The
miter "guage" must be something new.  The miter GAUGE supports
crosscuts.

I prefer the sliding miter table (even the one on the BT-3000) over a
miter
gauge any day.  My BT-3000 runs a Freud stacked dado set just fine.  I
made
a tenoning jig that runs on top of the fence.  It works just fine.  I
have
not cut any dados in maple but mine does just fine with oak.  I don't
miss
the miter slots at all.

I've had my BT-3000 for about five years and I'm pretty sure I've moved
a
bit beyond the beginner stage of woodworking.  Of course I'd like to
upgrade
but not to a Jet or Delta contractor saw.  I'll bet every table saw
owner
who doesn't have one would like to upgrade to a Delta Unisaw or
Powermatic 66
but I wouldn't consider moving to a Jet CS an "upgrade" from the
BT-3000.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here.  I just get tired of people who
haven't
used the Ryobi saw putting it down.  Now we also have somebody who owns
a
Delta telling us how great the Jet is.

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu

ob.rec.ww:  I've just finished a couple of Adirondack chairs that will
be
            used at a beach house (not mine).  I use tung oil on my
chairs
            but am considering something else for the beach.  Would
something
            like WaterSeal work better?  I know it would be easier for
the
            customer to re-apply every year, if necessary...


From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:34 EST 1997
Article: 193569 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antiquing hardware (Hinges, screws, etc.)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 15:55:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Muriatic acid (dilute nitric acid) will strip the zinc plating off steel
hardware.  This is the same stuff used to clean concrete, and is available
in gallon jugs at any hardware store worthy of the designation (usual
precautions on fumes, eye/skin protection/enclosed spaces/drinking the
stuff).  

This will allow you to follow with water (real rust - what a concept...),
wax (slower rust), oil (dip after heating hardware with torch - usual
precautions for fire-proof container with drop airtight lid), or whatever.
 Oil results in a 'forge finish' - about what you get from Ball and Ball
on strap hinges.

Check FWW and AWW back issues for directions.  Seems they also covered
doing brass hardware...


From dclaridg@awinc.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:35 EST 1997
Article: 193570 of rec.woodworking
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From: dclaridg@awinc.com (Derek Claridge)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Bowl Crafter & Lathe
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:54:26 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Vancouver, BC, CANADA
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I'm reading Spielman's "ROUTER HANDBOOK"  (1983)  and see Bowl Crafter
and Router Lathe acessory described. These were both from Sears at
that time.

(1): Were they effective acessories?

(2): Are they available today?


From mxd.msd1@mhs.unc.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:35 EST 1997
Article: 193571 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: Michael Dameron <mxd.msd1@mhs.unc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 17:36:29 GMT
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193571

barss@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS) wrote:
>In article <haver-2503971244280001@130.189.40.12>, haver@dartmouth.edu (Rick Haver) writes:
>>In article <33363A49.493@skylink.net>, paperboy@skylink.net wrote:
>>
>>Maybe it's a stupid question, but why did the old time craftsmen prefer
>>darker finishes? I see so many great older pieces, with lots of
>>indivdual style and care, but all seem so dark. Was that the only or the
>>best option back then?
>>
>>***********
>>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Hey, there's no stupidity here. Just humble opinions.
>>
>>I know a large part is fashion. The vogue for light colored woods is a blip,
>>I believe. Other than the scandinavian styles of the '50s I believe most
>>other periods preferred dark woods. Witness the dark, dark colors on
>>mission oak, the dark, clunky Mediterrean stuff, the Age of Mahogany, 
>>the Age of Walnut from the 1700's and 1800's. These woods may have
>>been chosen for reasons other than color but there's no arguing they're dark. 
>>
>>And, of course, some woods darken in time, especially cherry and maybe oak.
>>
>>I must admit to a recent preference for maple myself, tho.
>>
>>Rick
>
>	You also have to consider larger forces at work.  Prior to
>the industrial revolution, there were fewer dust particles in the
>atmosphere, so the light from the sun was typically brighter
>than it is today.  So, the woods that look so dark to us now, looked
>significantly lighter to the original craftsmen who built the classical
>furniture of the 18th and 19th centuries.  The main reason Scandinavian
>furniture has consistently always been light-colored is simply because
>those countries are far enough North that sunlight has always been
>moderately weak up there.
>
>	-- Andrew Barss, who firmly believes it's all a matter
>of perspective.
>
>
You have a good imagination.  I hope no one believes this nonsense.  Next 
it'll be alien mind control from the space-ship behind Hale-Bopp.
Mike



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:36 EST 1997
Article: 193572 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:10:10 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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John Alexander wrote:
> 
> In <859783063.20329@dejanews.com> dcjordan@bellsouth.net writes:
> >
> >I am building a shaker style entertainment center out of cherry.  Any
> >suggestions on a method for finishing and stains?  I really like the
> >finish that Ethan Allan has on some of their cherry furniture.

Alex responded:

> As I understand it, Ethan Allen bleaches all their woods white, as then
> they color them with dye, before clear coating. This is the only way
> they can make all the pieces match. A lot of people buy a couple pieces
> now, and then add a piece or two after several years. The customer
> expects that the new piece will exactly match the old piece.
> 

Not quite on the bleaching. They stay away from this process if they can
because of the issues regarding nuetralizing the bleach. If the bleach
is not nuetralized enough, then the finish suffers a form of "paint
failure": it peels and chips. (Thomasville Furniture Industries suffered
this malady for years with a line of pecan furniture they called their
"Tableau" suite.)

Furniture factories, Etan Allen included, use a finishing step called
"equalizing" to begin their process. Greenish woods are treated with a
very diluted orange stain, reddish woods are treated with a very diluted
greenish stain. The stains are lacquer-based and have almost no body
(solids) to them. This is a process that requires tremendous eye/color
skills.

>From  here, they will build their color with NGRs, wiping stains, glazes
and toners. Some stains are applied by hand, but most are sprayed.

For your purposes, since cherry is a wood which blotches, you would do
well to start of with a gell stain like Wood-Kote because that will
minimze the blotchiness.

If you have the capability to spray, then you can mix your own lacquer
toners. That means that the color you would choose for your gell stain
would be the background color, something along the order of Golden Oak
or Colonial Maple. On top of this you would shoot a reddish brown toner,
more brown than red (like Bunt Umber). Finish up with two coats of a
clear satin, and you will have a finish that is compatible with the
shaker style (a rock maple color, but the closer you look at the wood,
the more yellows, reds and browns you see -- like the pills from the
60's and 70's that were popular among the young). You get those
varieties of the color because you have layered your colors.

If you cannot spray, your choices are more limited. Choose a gell stain
for it's overall color: perhaps one that calls itself cherry (it should
be a red that is close to orange, but not to bright in the chroma scale,
more like a burnt sienna). Wipe on, let dry and clear coat with the
finish of your choice.

Good luck.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel

    / `-' )        ,,,
   | IU U||||||||[:::]
    \_.-.(         '''


From cdub@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:37 EST 1997
Article: 193573 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:01:13 -0600
From: cdub@erols.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning waterstone
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859823464.2229@dejanews.com>
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In article <333a07b3.17365703@news.lafn.org>,
  vbaron@lafn.org (Victor G. Baron) wrote:
>
> I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
> screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
> roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
> and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
> combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
> the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
> sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? It just happened
> this evening so I haven't had time to try anything. Had several ideas
> on my own tho,
> 1) Just let it soak in water
> 2) Use waterless hand cleaner to dissolve the gunk and let the water
> float it away
> 3) Lap the stone on glass with ??? grit wet/dry paper
>
> Any thoughts? Hopefully I haven't ruined the stone. Sure like the edge
> it puts on a plane iron.
>
> Thanx,
>
> Vic Baron

If the stone was saturated with water before you hit it with WD-40 and
you wiped up the oil immediately, the penetration will probably be
minimal; you say it still works fine. Since waterstones are soft and need
to be planed frequently, just lap it with carbide paper until the marks
are erased.

BTW -- Tried sharpening with diamond plates?

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:38 EST 1997
Article: 193574 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wormdrive saw?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 15:59:58 GMT
Organization: scruz-net
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I recently purchased the Skill Worm Drive. I chose it because it had no
side to side blade wobble where it seemed others did. It is one of the best
tools I ever bought. The one and only complaint I have is it is heavy, But
now when I saw I get a good arm and shoulder workout..hahaha.

L Maleszewski <hoggy@easyway.net> wrote in article
<333CAF9D.6F74@easyway.net>...
> Hey all,
> Hoping that someone can help me with this one;  I'm looking for a new
> circular saw & have run across a worm drive, or hypoid drive for makita,
> & was wondering what make this saw so different from the standard type
> that's pretty common to all manufacturers.  What makes it better or
> worse? etc?  Any input would help, no spam please.  Thanks in advance.




From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:39 EST 1997
Article: 193575 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Great Tweezers!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:04:20 GMT
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The guy selling tweezers in this group almost had me ready to buy, till I
got his SPAM EMAIL. I refuse to buy anything from anyone who SPAMS!
-- 
somebody@inow.com
www2.inow.com/~somebody


From doryjoe@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:40 EST 1997
Article: 193576 of rec.woodworking
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From: doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:21:04 GMT
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Like many woodworkers, I started with the contractors saw, and it is the
best saw for the money.  If you want to move up to a higher quality level,
there are now options other than the Unisaw.  For many years I hungered
for the Unisaw, but just could not justify the price difference.  Recently
I have noticed that Jet saws have been getting favorable press including
many in this group.  I resisted because I figured, just another knock off
>from  those guys "over there".  I was wrong.  After agonizing many months,
I bought the 2hp Jet cabinet saw.  I caught it on sale, and got the saw
with standard fence for under $900.00 with the Jet $40.00 rebate.  I
couldn't be happier!  The saw is smooth, quiet and cuts like a dream.  The
finish and fit are in my opinion just as good as Delta, and I have always
been a Delta man and have a shop full of their tools.  

Another reason to stretch for the cabinet saw is the advantage of dust
collection.  Eventually most people make this move.  Trying to efficiently
remove dust from a contractor say is futile.  All of us have tried, none
very successfuly.  The cabinet saw makes it possible.  Just some grist for
your mill.  Good luck, Joe


From fisabel@sbi.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:41 EST 1997
Article: 193577 of rec.woodworking
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From: fisabel@sbi.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Inca vs Shopsmith Bandsaw: One and the same????
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:06:56 GMT
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Well, the Inca is Swiss product and in reviews itm is rated as the
best small BS in the market. The ShopSmith is american made and never
have see any review in any magazine about it. Probaly you best bet is
to request input from people that own one of these BS.


fisabel#sbi.com





On 27 Mar 1997 23:56:01 GMT, "frances recknor"
<francesrecknor@sprintmail.com> wrote:

>I finally decided that an Inca is the Bandsaw to get. But, having looked at
>the pictures/specs of the Shopsmith I was amazed at the similarities
>between both. They seemed to have the same dimensions, specs and weights.
>The Shopsmith's table is a bit larger and, of course, the motor (it has
>none of its own) will be that of the Mark V with VS so it would have a lot
>more power than that of the Inca. the good news is that it is (the SS) is a
>$100 cheaper!! Of course you needed to have the Mark V first! 
>
>Am I missing something?? 
>



From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:42 EST 1997
Article: 193578 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:  Finishing Teak
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:23:41 GMT
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Rebecca Wittman's book 'Brightwork' has a complete discussion of
refinishing teak, to include stripping.  Summarizing her sections on teak:

1.  Use varnish/paint remover to get down to the wood.
2.  Use TEKA A-B teak cleaner to pull oxidized oil from the wood.  TEKA A
will turn the wood nearly black (actually the chemical reaction with the
oxidized oils in the wood).  Flushing with TEKA B (buy two or three times
as much B as A) will result in the golden color so common to new teak. 
Follow with cold water.
3.  Varnish with 8-10 coats of International Marine Schooner Varnish
(final two coats #60 Rubbed Effect for a satin finish), or use a tung
oil/teak oil finish for areas belowdecks.

I have used this approach on teak and holly veneered plywood used on cabin
soles that were so heavily discolored by suntan lotion/sun fading/abrasive
sand/motor oil that the broker refused to show the boat.

TEKA works using a chemical reaction versus simply bleaching the wood. 
There is some slight grain raising, but 220/320/400 always produced a
varnish-ready surface.

IMHO, noting comes close to a 10 coat marine varnish finish on teak.


From julio@dsp.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:43 EST 1997
Article: 193579 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ron Picchi" <julio@dsp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Mail Order Machinery, horror story concluded
Date: 31 Mar 1997 11:34:10 GMT
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After having two Unisaws damaged/ destroyed  in transit from Woodworker's
Supply , with much lost time (and consequently, money) as well as mental
anguish throughout the process of finally receiving one in good condition, 
I must report that, in the end , Woodworker's Supply took care of me.  I
asked for a compensatory reduction in price as a condition of continuing my
purchase (and subsequently a third delivery attempt) and they agreed-- they
also took special precautions in preparing the saw for shipment the third
time around. While it may or may not be true that their freight carriers to
the S.F. bay area are of questionable reliability, Woodworker's itself was
very responsive to my complaints and was willing to resolve the situation
to my satisfaction,   --- Special thanks to Arlene in their traffic
department.    



From manvell@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:44 EST 1997
Article: 193580 of rec.woodworking
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From: Andy Manvell <manvell@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joint edge on planer?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:24:00 -0500
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Colin Montoya-Lewis wrote:
> 
> DMarlen wrote:
> >
> > I wrote a question to this newsgroup about creating a straight edge along
> > a side of a piece of wood that has two rough edges.  Suggestions focused
> > on tacking the board to a straightedge and run the straightedge along the
> > fence on the tablesaw, or run the router along it.
> >
> > But, how about this....
> >
> > What if you put the board into the planer on edge?  I know it might sound
> > dangerous.  So you couldn't do it on every piece.  But if it was mostly
> > straight; just rough, couldn't you put it on edge and have the rollers
> > hold it steady and let the planer take off just a little bit.  Then do it
> > again.  And again.  Then turn it over and do the other edge. Would this
> > work?  I imagine the biggest problem would be if the wood were to fall
> > over sideways.  But I don't think it would do that if the rollers were
> > holding it down.
> >
> > Just a thought.... but I'd like to hear your thoughts.
> >
> > David.
> 
> Assuming the piece didn't simply fall over (or come shooting back out at
> you at 100,000 miles per hour), you wouldn't end up with a straight edge
> on either side because you need at least one straight edge to reference
> off the bed of the planer.
> -Colin
I agree with Colin - sounds like not such a good idea, but heres
something else to consider - a straight edge, two sawhorses, and a
skilsaw.  Not very elegant, but should work just fine!

Andy Manvell


From julio@dsp.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:45 EST 1997
Article: 193581 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Ron Picchi" <julio@dsp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Machinery, a horror story
Date: 31 Mar 1997 12:09:01 GMT
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I've posted another conclusion to this tale of woe, but I want to make sure
 that it is known that Woodworker's Supply took my complaints and
frustrations  seriously -- they resolved the delivery problems and got a
saw to me without  incident, making certain concessions to me regarding
delivery specifics  and  the cost of my order. Even though I still have
some doubts about the freight  companies that WS uses to my area, I'm
satisfied with WS's commitment to customer service.  

Ron Picchi <julio@dsp.com> wrote in article
<01bc364a$3af5d340$d67904c7@mycomputer.dsp.com>...
> After about eight weeks shopping  for a table saw, searching classifieds
> for good used ones, visiting local retailers, and combing through mail
> order catalogs, web sites, etc,  I finally ordered a Unisaw from
> Woodworker's Supply ..   Their price is as good as any, I save $140 in
> sales tax ( CA)  , and their delivery is free including removal from the
> truck and placement of the saw in my garage. I placed the order Friday
> afternoon two weeks ago. Here's what has happened so far....
> 
> The following Wednesday, while I just happen to be stopping by my house
> between trips to job sites, a truck pulls up in front of my house ( no
> phone call to arrange delivery time as promised by the salesperson at WS)

> But hey, no big deal, I ( and they ) lucked out, right?  The driver,
> seemingly disoriented and perhaps DUI, opens up the truck to reveal the
saw
> wedged up against the side of the truck , pallet smashed, and the carton
> considerably crunched. I refused the delivery and called WS. They were
> apologetic and told me someone from the "traffic"dept would call me to
> resolve this.
> 
> No call that day. We traded messages the next day. The day after that I
> made arrangements for a new saw to be delivered-- it was Friday by then ,
> so shipment wouldn't happen until Monday.
>  
> Following wednesday................  anticipating delivery at any time, I
> call the shipper ( a different company this time-- WS suggested this to
> appease my concern about the competence of the first shipper) to confirm
a
> time,  and I find out that the saw is arriving at their local terminal
that
> evening, and that they will call me in the morning to arrange the time.
> 
> Next morning,  no call.   I take care of a few errands and finally call
> them around noon. "Oh yeah, we were supposed to call you...".etc   They
> tell me that their liftgate equipped truck is broken down and that MAYBE 
> they can deliver tomorrow.  I call the traffic person at WS , explain how
> their new shipper is costing me time and money, and I ask that they
> intervene to get me my saw as soon as possible. Once again they are
> apologetic and promise to take care of it.  The shipping co's dispatcher
> calls and says they will deliver in the morning ( again Friday) .
> 
> Friday.....  I call to set up a time, I'm told approxiamately 10:00 am by
> the same dispatcher.  At 12:45 pm  I call the dispatcher -- He apologizes
> and says it will be  there any time now. I have already put off two
clients
> until the afternoon while I await this delivery.  At 1:15 the truck
> arrives.  The driver opens the back and there's the Unisaw,  the carton
is
> damaged but taped back together, and the saw is not strapped to the
pallet
> as it comes from the factory. I look it over carefully and see no
evidence
> of damage, so ( not wanting to prolong this experience any longer) I told
> the driver to unload it.  Well, this was beyond his capability -- he
> dropped the saw off the lift gate , it flipped over and fell  4 feet to
the
> street. small parts flew in various directions.  I told him to put it
back
> on the truck and to take it away.  I called WS, the traffic manager was
out
> for the rest of the day.  But they were apologetic.
> 
> It has been two weeks since I placed the order and I still have no saw.
> Monday would be the first possible shipping date. At this point  I am
> wondering if there is a shipping company competent enough to deliver
> machinery without  destroying it.  I'd appreciate advice or input from
> others who have purchased machinery from the mail order companies.  
> 
> 


From gremial@pronet.net.gt Wed Apr  2 12:09:46 EST 1997
Article: 193582 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:35:14 -0600
From: gremial@pronet.net.gt
Subject: Drying Wood
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Dear Sirs:

We are interested in knowing the procedures and techniques of drying
wood.

Because we are working with artisans groups in Guatemala, Central
America we need to know low cost implementations. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Fernando Aldana

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:46 EST 1997
Article: 193583 of rec.woodworking
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From: jason Steward <jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Touching up Streaking?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:57:43 +0000
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Michael:

I make my living by taking care of what manufacturers and craftmen 
screw up on.  The only way to really hide (and hide is all you can do 
to this once its under finish) is to apply some color mixed with or 
over coated with lacquer. I have a powder stain set of about 50 
different colors, that I mix with the appropriate gloss lacquer.  I 
then feather this in on top of the finish to lessen the visibility of 
the problem.  This can also be done with some liquid (solvent based) 
stain, dried then rewetted with lacquer.  If it doesn't look right or 
you make a mistake, immediately wipe it off with a slightly damp rag 
of lacquer thinner.  Be really careful if you try to take it off, too 
damp a rag will take off you existing finish.  If you just use color 
markers, the color will come off next time you polish.  There are 
other techniques, but they require more skill and equipment.
Good Luck,

jhs

NOTE
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From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:47 EST 1997
Article: 193584 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Upside-down router
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:49:44 GMT
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To protect the router' innards' from debris, make a cone of metal 
window screening and #12or#10 copper wire.
I believe that the problem is in the design of the routers.
They were not designed to operate upside down. 


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:48 EST 1997
Article: 193585 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:44:50 GMT
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Mr. White,


To quote from the USDA Forest Service Agriculture Handbook #72

Tamarack

Tamarack (Larix laricina) is a small to medium sized tree with a
straight, round, slightly tapered trunk.  In the United States it
grows from Maine to Minnesota, with the bulk of the stand in the Lake
States.  It was formerly used in considerable quanity for lumber, but
in recent years production for that purpose has been small.

The heartwood of tamarack is yellowish brown to russet brown.  The
sapwood is whitish, generally less than an inch wide.  The wood is
coarse in texture, without odor or taste, and the transition from
earlywood to latewood is abrupt.  The wood is intermediate in weight
and in most mechanical properties.  

Tamarack is used principally for pulpwood, lumber, railroad crossties,
mine timber, fuel, fenceposts, and poles.  Lumber goes into framing
material, tank construction, and boxes, pallets, and crates.

end of quote

In another source I see that tamarack is moderately resistant to
decay.

Hope this helps,  I have more if you need.
====================================================
====================================================

On 29 Mar 1997 15:41:30 GMT, dwhite@highlander.cbnet.ns.ca(David
White) wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about a wood species called tamarack?I am told
>it is also called juniper or larch.I have about 1600bdf of this wood and am 
>considering using it for a deck.I live in Eastern Canada and am told that this
>wood has a high resistance to rot . Does anyone have any info they would like
> to share about this species?
>
>Thank You
>David White



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From nsurch@cyberus.ca Wed Apr  2 12:09:49 EST 1997
Article: 193586 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsurch@cyberus.ca (Neil Surch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: circular saws
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:40:28 GMT
Organization: Cyberus Online Inc.
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  Sure you can get a three $50 one but they are sure sloppy and
flimsy.  If you use the saw infrequently then go ahead knock yourself
out.  However the $150 saws are built to last with strong powerful
motors and a tight arbor that does not "float" in and out.  I have a
Makita 5008NB(8 1/4") it's about 10 years old now and has gone thru
hell, work outside in rain/sleet/hail/snow and has yet to fail me.
It's still works like a charm  and it's still as rock solid as the day
I bought it.

  I previously owned a cheap DIY Black & Decker and it ruined more
than difference in price I paid for the Makita in the short time I had
it.  Don't get me wrong it did a bang up job shortening 2x4's but
sucks in the thick sheet good stuff.

  Other brands to look out for that my friends have recommend is the
Dewalt or the B&D Industrial SawCat or Super SawCat(same thing really)
let's not forget the venerable Model 77 Skil Worm Drive.

On 23 Mar 1997 17:29:51 GMT, jeberlepe@aol.com (JEberlepe) wrote:

>I need to but a new circular.  I'm looking for suggestions.  Don't know if
>it's worth paying $150 for one when I could buy three $50 for the same
>price.  Comments???



From whylandj@kodak.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:51 EST 1997
Article: 193587 of rec.woodworking
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From: whylandj@kodak.com (jcw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 16:51:17 GMT
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I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen 
cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is to 
leave them natural with no stain.  How will this look (or is it recommended to 
at least apply a light stain to help bring out the grain)?  In terms of the 
finish, I don't own expensive spraying equipment so my options seem limited.  
Is it advisable to go with a polyurethane (water based) product such as Minwax 
which I can get in a spray can or are there better choices?  I'm making the 
cabinets myself so I'm inclined to spend a little more $$ if the end product 
is that much nicer.

As always, thanks for the help.

Jeff


  



From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:52 EST 1997
Article: 193588 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Teak
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:10:35 GMT
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Unless you keep the vessel under cover or have full time crew
varsished teak is a 'pain in the a__'.
There is NO question that,it is beautiful but who of us without 
unlimited resources can maintain it? That is, if you use your vessel
for any thing but a gin palace?
IMOP oiled teak is the most practical method of maintaining exterior
teak and also IMOP for interior teak.
I do not believe that the stain on the piece of furniture would be as 
serious if the original finish had been an oil finish and the repair
would be that much easier. But don't take my word for it!
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
Remove X to reply


From Mitch_Favreau@tikal.biosci.arizona.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:53 EST 1997
Article: 193589 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mitch Favreau <Mitch_Favreau@tikal.biosci.arizona.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for Stickley Morris Chair?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:57:56 GMT
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In article <333E1F0B.57F7@pacbell.net> John P. Leuer, jpleuer@pacbell.net
writes:
>>I am looking for a book that might contain authentic plans for furniture
>in the Arts and Craft style of Gustave Stickley. Specifically, I would
>like to build a replica of the "Morris Chair". Has anyone seen such a
>reference?
>

I built the morris chair (with some mods) from the Bavaro & Mossman book.
 Virtually the same chair was also in FWW in 1993.  Also, a simpler
morris chair was in popular mechanics, December 1994.  I think you can
get the plans on their web site.

Do check out the woodshed site.
Mitch

Stickley How-to-make books with measured plans:

THIS IS THE BEST BOOK I HAVE YET SEEN ON MAKING MISSION FURNITURE. LONG
OUT OF PRINT, IT WILL SOON BE REISSUED

	The Furniture of Gustav Stickley : History, Techniques, Projects; 
Joseph J. Bavaro, Thomas L. Mossman; Hardcover; 1st linden 	Edition; List
price: $42.01; Published by Linden Pub.; May 1996;  	ISBN: 094193635X,
Now out in paperback for $19.95

(FOR MORE ON THIS BOOK AND ON CUT-LIST KITS TO GO WITH, SEE:
http://www.woodshed.com/ )


ANOTHER GOOD ONE, ESPECIALLY FOR THE PRICE, THESE ARE BASED ON CRAFTSMAN
MAGAZINE HOW TO ARTICLES

	Making authentic craftsman furniture, Dover,  0-486-25000-8

	Popular mechanics-how to make mission furniture, vols I,II 
	and III, Dover reprint, I think

	Popular mechanics-how to make mission lamps & shades
	Dover  ISBN:0-486-24244-7


	Mission furniture: how to make it, H H Windsor,
	Dover reprint, I think


From pbuerk@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:54 EST 1997
Article: 193590 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Paul Buerk" <pbuerk@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 17:01:28 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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I use Visio. OK, it's not really a CAD program, but it is very easy to use,
does autodimensioning, and can be set to work in 100ths of an inch. There
are several versions of this package out there, but I only have experience
with 3.0.
-- 
It takes a big dog to weigh a ton.

Bill Davis Jr. <billd@ssnet.com> wrote in article
<333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com>...
> All,
> 	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
> 
> Any advice would be helpful
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bill D
> billd@ssnet.com
> 
> 


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:55 EST 1997
Article: 193591 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for chest
Message-ID: <8D50246.0233014D94.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 09:42:00 -0600
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You can spend all day searchin the 50,000 places online that have
plans-or just go to your public library and get them off the shelf,Also
Bookstores have em,And you can buy plans outta WW magazines too,Plans
are very easy to obtain you can even get em at Sears,Menards,and many
Hrdwr stores too.The Down side of Plans is they only give ya a Minimal
amount of info usually and skimp on the paper,but plans are slightly
better than nothing,You can tell really good plans cuz instead of just
listing the pieces you need they give ya a total of wood needed so you
dont need to calculate with all those little pieces tryin to figger how
many of those lil pieces add up to a regular size piece of lumber,,I
like to just buy or Salvage usually alot of wood And just start cuttin
till i have what i want to make,For me its easier to just build it
rather than try to copy a plan,,Usually most plans have stuff in em i
prefer to leave off or improve,If i was you and didnt have 100s of
dollars to spend on books,i would get a pile of books on WW at the
library and teach yerself howto design your own stuff cuz its easier
than buyin plans,,Use dowels to join stuff if you dont have a biscuit
joiner,and try to stay away from  usin nails or screws,,Get
sp[ecifically books on Joinery to learn the basic ways of joinin
wood,like fingerjoints,Dovetails,Mortise n tenon etc,There arent that
many you need to learn ..I think the whole key to WW is just do it-that
is start cuttin and assemblin and immediately youll start rumnnin into
those problems youll learn to solve,,To get all the Free wood you need
for practice youll find Tons of it in over 20 places,like Abandoned
farms torn down,,Standin on the curb waitin for the trashman [this is
best] Behind any woodworking establishments like Fence Builders,Cabinet
makers,,Building site dumpsters,,Also Tossed out Furniture is good for
some projects cuz you can Break it down easily or restore it and sell it
to buy wood,,Most wood furniture breaks down with a simple hammer-and
drawers come apart very easy into nice workable strips ive
found.Well i gotta run out and check the North end of town cuz today is
trashday and i gotta see what Woodstuff is waitin for me!
                                          ILBCNUL8R
                                                    Lee Ward

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From dan.pressman@east.sun.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:56 EST 1997
Article: 193592 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dan Pressman <dan.pressman@east.sun.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:52:11 -0500
Organization: Sun Microsystems
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I agree with the second response below,  the first sentence would have
been Ok if it had been followed with a URL into FAQ.  Grumpy is ok if it
includes a shove in the wright direction.

Dan


From jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu Wed Apr  2 12:09:57 EST 1997
Article: 193593 of rec.woodworking
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From: jason Steward <jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:47:56 +0000
Organization: university of louisville
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Lou was wondering about what finish to use on a hardwood floor, and 
seemed to be leaning towards wax.

Lou:

I do hand rubbed finishes on floors.  I use a mixture of natural 
Polymer(boiled linseed, or tung oil), polyurethane varnish (paint 
thinner based, not water based), and mineral spirits.  I substitute 
the mineral spirits with partially or all stain (thinner not water 
based) if added color is desired.  The exact mixture of these is 
dependant on the floor itself.  Drier wood with spaces between boards 
require more thinner and oil to penetrate the wood, and close up the 
gaps as well as remoisturize the wood.  I really like the first few 
applications to penetrate deeply to condition the wood.  This also has 
the added benefit of making the wood unpalitable to insects 
(especially termites).  The first few coats (3-4) need to be done with 
less time between coats because you don't want the wood to seal before 
you apply the next coat.  The oil takes longer to cure, so I coat it 
twice a day by applying to the floor with a very wet rag, then taking 
a drier one and continue to rub the floor until it is completely dry 
to the touch with this same rag.  That may require rubbing the floor 
3-4 times.  My later applications have a higher share of the poly, and 
less oil and thinner.  The applications are the same, but 16-24 hours 
between coats are required, but no longer than 24.  When I have 
achieved the desired build up of finish, the floor is left to cure for 
2-3 days.  Top dressing with wax can be done but is not required.  

The advantages of such a floor is that in a few years time when it 
gets scuffed up, you only have to wet sand it lightly with 400 grit 
and mineral spirits, rinse (clean off sanding residue), and reapply 
some of the mixture above to completely restore the finish.  This 
finish is not a plastic coating like floating poly, so it does not 
delaminate.  It chemically alters the composition of the wood making 
it stronger and more dent resistant.  It can be easily repaired, and 
never needs to be stripped again.

for more info e-mail me

jhs

NOTE
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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:09:57 EST 1997
Article: 193594 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need plans for a doghouse.
Message-ID: <8D5022A.0233014D93.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 09:14:00 -0600
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The library has alot of Doghouse plans if ya cant find any on the 50,000
places online to search.
                             LW

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From sbrews@mastnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:09:59 EST 1997
Article: 193595 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Brewster <sbrews@mastnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bandsaw Tires
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:13:58 -0600
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I found an old Grizzly 14" bandsaw that was long out of service and am
trying to get it going.  One problem it has is that the tires on both
wheels start to "flap" or undulate as the wheels get up to speed and
eventually the tires jump off the wheels.  I thought about gluing the
tires to the wheels but am not sure if this is the proper solution.  Is
this just because the tires are old and have deteriorated?  Any ideas.
Thanks,
Steve


From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:00 EST 1997
Article: 193596 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Toxic Pressure treated wood.
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:09:45 GMT
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I have used the green pressure treated wood around my garden quite a bit. I
recently purchased two 16 foot 4x6's that were pressure treated, but these
were BLACK not green. I was told later that they contain Arsenic! Yow
shouldn't I have told this at the time of purchase? The green pressure
treated has some form of copper in it doesn't it? Should I get the green
stuff away from my vegetable plants?  I read in the gardening news group
that pressure treated can be used for raised planter boxes because the
copper doesn't leach out. The Black would has a bluish green crystal type
material oozing from it here and there.
-- 
somebody@inow.com
www2.inow.com/~somebody


From fessler@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:00 EST 1997
Article: 193597 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Fessler <fessler@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:23:23 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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Database Coder wrote:
> 
> The guy selling tweezers in this group almost had me ready to buy, till I
> got his SPAM EMAIL. I refuse to buy anything from anyone who SPAMS!
> --
> somebody@inow.com
> www2.inow.com/~somebody
Your loss, I'm afraid.


From pbuerk@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:02 EST 1997
Article: 193598 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Paul Buerk" <pbuerk@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: 31 Mar 1997 17:16:07 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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References: <19970327023000.VAA04067@ladder01.news.aol.com> <333A87D0.3F71@lucent.com> <E7pLKw.vq@perkin-elmer.com> <333e2e4c.32561509@news.mindspring.com>
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I have to say that this is more than a little misguided, unless your son is
the one really doing all the work. The derby is for the kids, not the
parents, no matter what your motivation may be. I have to admit that I
wanted to do a lot more with my son's car, but I managed to contain myself
and let him make his own mistakes. 

You can easily tell when the parents have built the car, and the kids can
tell as well. When you do this kind of thing, you're hurting the kids.

In most places, it is against the rules to substitute anything for the
axles that come with the kit, but your event may be an exception. 
-- 
It takes a big dog to weigh a ton.

Foxeye <foxeye@xxmindspring.com> wrote in article
<333e2e4c.32561509@news.mindspring.com>...
> These little cars need all the help they can get, and the more you do
> the better off you will be.  These tips are perfectl;y legal, and have
> been done to my sons car, and he placed 1st 2 years in a row....I
> substituted SS rivets for the supplied axles, and polished them where
> the wheel contacts them...a true round hole is a must, as well as
> having an axle (button head SS rivet) that fits the wheels axle hole
> without to much slop, but rotates very free *without* any sideplay or
> wobble.  Take the time to tru the wheells / tires by chucking them in
> a lath or Drill press and making all four the same exact sixe and
> perfectly round.  If all 4 can not be made the same size get another
> kit, and get four that way.  Keep the weight low and to the front or
> centered equally over front and rear axles.  If design permits center
> weight, if not, keep it forward as much as possible.  Make sure the
> wheels and axles are perfectly aligned. Don't trust the predrilled
> holes or slots.  If necessary fill and redrill these axle locations
> all the same height, and location.  If one wheel has more pressure or
> weight on it it will have a tendency to run left or right and drag.
> Last I new graphite was still allowed.  USE IT, not OIL or grease.
> Finish (they say) does help, but its not really a big player in all
> reality.  I have seen kids that took the time to make sure all is
> aligned and weight adjusted do nothing but use the raw block right out
> of the pack and win, over a slick as teflon finished cars.  Weigh it
> on a certified scale, and make it exactly 5 oz.
>   Lots of luck
> 
> BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com (A. P. Baj orinas) wrote:
> 
> >Thus spoke Andy-Dowiarz <nahd@lucent.com>:
> >
> >]SJ14280 wrote:
> >]> 
> >]> I'm building Oine Wood Derby cars.  How can you make them go faster? 
What
> >]> are good building tips for cool, fast cars?  Is there a web site or
> >]> keyword for these cars?  Please help!
> >
> >
> >I used to love those races.
> >
> >One good tip is to consider finishing the car with spray paint from
> >the autoparts store. The touch up spray cans are a good size, and you
> >can get a beautifull finish. Your kids can spray them, sand and
> >re-spray, end even wax them. Makes them look great and kids like it
> >because it is like working on a "real" car.
> >
> >Not much help on speed, except maybe that a good finish has less drag.
> >:)
> >
> >
>
>|--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--|
> >| Andrew P. Bajorinas             |     These opinions are my own and   
    |
> >| BajoriAP@Perkin-Elmer.NOSPAM.com|       not those of my employer.     
    |
>
>|--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--|
> >|                 God bless those pagans.  (Homer Simpson)              
    |
>
>|__________________________________________________________________________
__|
> >
> >My return address is mangled to reduce spam.
> >
> 
> Foxeye
> 
> The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA
Someday
> Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address
> 


From mcnair@nortel.ca Wed Apr  2 12:10:02 EST 1997
Article: 193599 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken McNair <mcnair@nortel.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SnakeWood
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:09:31 -0500
Organization: Nortel Public Carrier Networks
Message-ID: <333FEFCB.3618@nortel.ca>
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Owen Davies wrote:

  Christian =?iso-8859-1?Q?Laferri=E8re?= wrote:

  > I ... found a half log of snakewood (approx 6" in diameter,
  > 24" long) at a supply store in Montreal, Quebec and the
  > asking price was $600.00 Canadian ???
  >
  > Does this sound realistic?

  Don't know whether "realistic" is exactly the word, but
  that's about the asking price I saw at the Granite State
  Woodturner's symposium in Keen, NH, in February.  Too
  bad, as it's lovely stuff.

  Owen Davies


  How do you finish this stuff - with  Snake Oil ? :-)



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:03 EST 1997
Article: 193600 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:12:34 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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Message-ID: <5hou5o$h00@camel0.mindspring.com>
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Matt Prusik <mjprusik@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

;I'd follow the recommendations here WRT replacement rather than
relubrication of 
;bearings.  Also, each time I order replacement bearings I specify
SEALED rather than 
;shielded bearings.  The seals keep dust and foreign matter away from
the inside of the 
;bearings which is the second most common reason for bearing failure
-- lack of 
;lubrication after mishandling during installation.
;	Good luck!
;	Matt

I had allways heard that the grease/oil in ball or roller bearings
actually serves the purpose of preventing oxidation /rust .The reason
being that Ball /roller bearings have a very low running friction and
the so called Lubricant actually increases the torque to run the
bearing ,Of course the same is not true for plain bearings as they in
most cases run on a thin film of oil .
          mjh



From pprocter@pipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:04 EST 1997
Article: 193601 of rec.woodworking
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From: pprocter@pipeline.com (Philip Procter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Source for old planes?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:04:09 GMT
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mathsgr8@aol.com (Mathsgr8) wrote:

>I would like to buy an "old" jointer plane.  I want it to use, not
>collect.  Can
>someone give me a contact?  I hope to find a #8, or #7.

>Thanks.

>Chuck Clark
>mathsgr8@aol.com

i bought one from Plncrzy@aol.com. Everything worked fine, exactly as
advertized. Highly recommended


Philip
God first,
then your neighbors and yourself,
all else is commentary.



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:05 EST 1997
Article: 193602 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: The best deal on a Sears table saw .you will not find a better deal
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:16:58 GMT
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mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide) wrote:

;I was fortunate to get a super deal on a delta Unisaw recently .it
has
;been restored and is now in working order .It replaces a very old
good

;Sears tablesaw,that I have used in my shop for the last 15 plus years
;Even as late as last week I was cutting 1/16"strips consistently on
;it ,this is with a bessimier fence which is now on the Unisaw .
;As I was originally given this saw ,I am offering the same to any one
;on this group .It would be nice if it was someone who is starting out
;who got it ,nevertheless I am afraid it is going to be first come
;first served . As i do this for a living I will be happy to help load
;it but I am afraid thats going to be about it .
;I am in Atlanta ,interested parties please contact me via Email .
;the saw has two extension tables but does not include the motor or
;blades .the crank on the tilt adjustment is broken .A nut has been
;welded onto it and adjustment can be made with a  simple ratchet .The
;stand is included .I will attempt to locate the original fence.
;                                mjh 

Sorry everyone the saw left the premises this morning to a young man
who had just started up in the cabinet business ,thanks to every one
for their interest 
                                         mjh



From adowellcpa@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:06 EST 1997
Article: 193603 of rec.woodworking
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From: adowellcpa@aol.com (ADowellcpa)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Recycle pallets?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 18:07:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I am thinking about reusing wood pallets to make a wood ceiling for my
basement. I do not own a planner; however, I am looking at a few 12"
types.  What are the pros and cons?  I know the wood will contain quite a
bit of dirt and I must pull all staples/nails.  Anyone know of any other
problems I might run into.  I alos know this would be tons of work. 
Thanks for any advise.  E-mail to:  TOMHOWKO@AOL.COM  


From rbg@christa.unh.edu Wed Apr  2 12:10:06 EST 1997
Article: 193604 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbg@christa.unh.edu (Roger B Grinde)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 18:06:12 GMT
Organization: University of New Hampshire
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <5houek$fl9@mozz.unh.edu>
References: <5h9m24$l9m@scel.sequent.com> <haubert.222.00283DA7@mbi.org> <01bc3b9e$760d83c0$c5ade1cc@kulinek> <haubert.228.001D7EE6@mbi.org>
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In our shopping around for wood floors, we read about the Bruce solid,
pre-finished products.  They have two finishes:  a urethane-based
finished, and a wax-based finished (forgot the trade names).  They
recommend the urethane-based finish for most residential applications
(*especially* kitchens), and the wax-based finished for extremely
high-traffic areas (e.g., commercial).  They specifically recommend
*against* putting the wax-based finish in places like kitchens, due to
moisture issues. 

-- 
Roger B. Grinde, Ph.D.                                roger.grinde@unh.edu
Decision Sciences Dept./WSBE/McConnell Hall   http://pubpages.unh.edu/~rbg 
The University of New Hampshire                               603-862-3368
Durham, NH  03824                                        fax: 603-862-4468


From valdis@GALVA.HMS.BKC.LV Wed Apr  2 12:10:07 EST 1997
Article: 193605 of rec.woodworking
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From: WOOD TRADE DATA BASE <valdis@GALVA.HMS.BKC.LV>
Subject: NOBILXIL
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193605

This article is posted from WOOD TRADE DATA BASE http://www.hms.bkc.lv/aek
*** To Remove:  Please hit reply & type "remove from WTDB" in the subject.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Our company is specialized in the coating of thin wood panels using Mdf, Mdf
 painted, fibra or chipboards panels like support.
 Our product is called NOBILXIL.
 For coating we use finish, vynil foils or continous low pressure laminate.
 The back of the panel could be raw, with balancing paper or
 2 finish foils faces.

 The tickness can change on material used; we produce starting from 2,5 mm.
 to 10 mm.(but we can produce higher tickness).

 EMPLOYMENT : a vast uses of the NOBILXIL panels is present in the industries
 that produce SHUTTERS, back of the FURNITURE or KITCHENS. They come used for
 the manufacture of rears of PICTURES and MIRRORS, COMMERCIAL-ARTISTS,
 DRAWERS, DOORS or STANDS.

 If you have any interest about our productions, I will be glad to send you
 more information about dimentions, foils and our samples by TNT-TRACO.

FEDERICO LASTRUCCI f.lastrucci@leonet.it
 Foreign Office
 COMECO srl
 ITALY



























































































































*******************************************************************
WOOD TRADE DATA BASE sent you this message using WorldMerge,
the fastest and easiest way to send personalized email messages
to your customers, subscribers, leads or friends.

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From ak409@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA Wed Apr  2 12:10:08 EST 1997
Article: 193606 of rec.woodworking
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: "Richard O'Brien" <ak409@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA>
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
In-Reply-To: <WOODWORK%97032812115786@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193606

Some of these saws have a reverse thread (left hand thread) on the arbor.
Try loosening the nut clockwise instead of counter clockwise.

Rick

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997, Larry Rondot wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> I bought at an auction a 250mm DeWalt power miter box (Catalog number 7716)
> "Type 1".  It has a nice Delta thin kerf blade on it, but needs sharpening.
>
> Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
> after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade with
 pliers
> I can't get the nut loose.
>
> The center of the arbor seems like it might be a star driver.  Do I need a
> special adaptor/tool to hold the arbor in place to remove the blade?
>
> Thanks for any comments...
>
> Larry Rondot
> Rondot@VMB.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
>


From ak409@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA Wed Apr  2 12:10:09 EST 1997
Article: 193607 of rec.woodworking
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: "Richard O'Brien" <ak409@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA>
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
In-Reply-To: <5hhr35$ocm@news3.snfc21.pacbell.net>
Lines: 24
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193607

I've got a B&D "Industrial" saw that I've been using for 5-6 years
without any problems what so ever.  B&D like a lot of other manufacturers
have 3 separate lines of tools, DIY, Professional and Industrial.  These
are from cheapest (low quality) to expensive (but worth it IMO).

Rick

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997, Martin Eastburn wrote:

> I'm very happy with my Milwaukee Super Sawzall.
> Tough, metal case, and been in use for years.
>
> Martin
> vanderen@bmt.net (Robert Van Deren) wrote:
> >I have been doing a little remodeling and have noticed a nice reciprocating
> saw
> >would be very handy.
> >
> >What are peoples opinions as to the best recipro saw?
> >--
> >Robert Van Deren
> >vanderen@bmt.net
> >
> >
>


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:10 EST 1997
Article: 193608 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:28:14 UNDEFINED
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In article <tip*-280397104501@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>From: tip*@ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
>Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:48:46 GMT


>I recently moved from Arizona to Ohio...  To top it off, I bought an old
>Civil War era farmhouse that is low on the insulation department.  So we
>wore a lot of sweaters and didn't heat it a lot.  AND, until we installed
>French drains this last few months there was standing water in the
>basement.  Needless to say the humidty was VERY HIGH this winter. 


Well, actually, that was far from needless-to-say.  You've got conflicting 
interests, there.  The humidity in the winter in a northern climate will be 
LOW, not high.  Obviously standing water will raise it, but the furnace, and 
the warming process, will really dry it out.

It's the summer in the great midwest that's humid.  We'll see what happens 
then!


>Failure due to wood movement doesn't generally happen in minutes.  Nor will
>it neccesarily happen in a year or two, especially if the furniture is in
>an environment with stable conditions.   But it will happen.

>Let's retake this poll in 10, 20 and 50 years and see the results.


I have to agree with Bennett on this one.  : )  A few years, to me, means 3 to 
5.   The humidity is about the same every year, and even a polyurinated piece 
will completely adjust to surrounding humity in a couple months.  Thus, if the 
piece is not damaged within a few years, it shouldn't be in many years, UNLESS 
those few years are spent in an environment that's stable yearround.  Arizona, 
and most of CA qualify as such.   In a true four season state, it's a 
different story.

Rich


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:11 EST 1997
Article: 193609 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fingerprints
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:32:06 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
Lines: 32
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References: <19970327014201.UAA00549@ladder01.news.aol.com> <tip*-270397122647@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <333B2602.78BA@leopard.com> <tip*-280397105717@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <Pine.SUN.3.96.970328163739.29452A-100000@voyager.cris.com>
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In article <Pine.SUN.3.96.970328163739.29452A-100000@voyager.cris.com> Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com> writes:
>From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
>Subject: Re: fingerprints
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 17:39:04 -0500

>On Fri, 28 Mar 1997, Tom Perigrin wrote:

>> In article <333B2602.78BA@leopard.com>, Steve Koschmann
>> <stevek@leopard.com> wrote:
>> >
>> 
>> > Tom, it isnt that hard... try to wipe the door down with lacquer
>> > thinnner or tupentine.  I would use turpentine...
>> 
>> Okay... give the little monsters rags and lacquer thinner or turpentine.

>My son helped me with finishing of his apron table, and his blue-black
>fingerprints are all over the red oak legs.

Blue-black?  Why, pray tell?


 I'm leaving 'em there. It's
>much more durable than the plaster of paris handprints they make at
>school, and it'll be a nice conversation piece for when his kids (should
>he be so unlucky to have any ;^)) when they use it. 


Cool.  Just don't ever paint the damn thing!  : )

Rich



From water@tznet.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:12 EST 1997
Article: 193610 of rec.woodworking
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:27:59 -0600
From: water@tznet.com (Tim Hoyman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Chop saw question
Message-ID: <water-3003972028030001@sl34.tznet.com>
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In article <333c6dbd.25862334@news.idt.net>, flyguy@usanet.com wrote:

> On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:55:57 EST, Larry Rondot
> <RONDOT@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU> wrote:
> 
> >Greetings,
> >
> >I bought at an auction a 250mm DeWalt power miter box (Catalog number 7716)
> >"Type 1".  It has a nice Delta thin kerf blade on it, but needs sharpening.
> >
> >Now the question - It has a 1"ish nut on the arbor that I need to get off and
> >after appling a liberal amount of WD-40 and tring to hold the blade
with pliers
> >I can't get the nut loose.
> >
> >The center of the arbor seems like it might be a star driver.  Do I need a
> >special adaptor/tool to hold the arbor in place to remove the blade?
> >
> >Thanks for any comments...
> >
> >Larry Rondot
> >Rondot@VMB.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
> Please don't take this wrong, but are you turning the nut in the right
> direction? Never could figure out why, but some saws have right hand
> and some have left hand threads. Nearly broke one trying to turn the
> arbor nut in the wrong direction. 

My DeWalt CMS has a right hand thread on the arbor.  It keeps the nut
tight when the arbor spins.

Tim


From rhybels@uic.edu Wed Apr  2 12:10:13 EST 1997
Article: 193611 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ralph Hybels <rhybels@uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Opinion on Grizzley 6" Jointer wanted
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:25:43 -0600
Organization: UIC
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Please see DejaNews onthis topic: you'll find LOTS of postings on it,
all with similar subjects.  Very mixed opinions.

Ralph


From ktucker*@scsn.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:13 EST 1997
Article: 193612 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!daryl.scsn.net!ktucker
From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for Stickley Morris Chair?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 18:32:46 GMT
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In article <333E1F0B.57F7@pacbell.net>, jpleuer@pacbell.net wrote:
>I am looking for a book that might contain authentic plans for furniture
>in the Arts and Craft style of Gustave Stickley. Specifically, I would
>like to build a replica of the "Morris Chair". Has anyone seen such a
>reference?
>

The Mossman book on "The Furniture of Gustav Stickley" includes plans for a 
Morris chair (now in 2nd edition and available via www.woodshed.com - no, I 
don't work for them).  "Fine Woodworking" ran an article about a year ago 
which included plans, and finally, Paul Kemner's new book "Building Arts and 
Crafts Furniture" should be available in a month or so, and I think he is also 
including some plans (Paul - can you verify?)

The oft-cited Dover reprint of Popular Mechanics period publication "Mission 
Furniture: How to build it" is interesting but the designs, including their 
version of a Morris chair, are somewhat crude compared to the works of Gustav.


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From james.w.baker@lmco.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:14 EST 1997
Article: 193613 of rec.woodworking
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From: "James W. Baker" <james.w.baker@lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Span lengths
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:15:43 -0500
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Steve Rimar wrote:
> 
> What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
> Thanks for all replies.
> 
> 
> STEVE RIMAR
> 
>              d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
> 
> 
>          all comments are my own
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Your request is too open ended.  What's the application and/or required
live and dead load ratings?  What O.C. spacing are you considering? 
What's the sheathing or decking size/thickness that will be applied? 
What wood are you planning on using?

Since there are a lot of options your best bet is to check out a
carpentry/framing book from the library so you weigh weigh the
advantages of the different methods.


From seanm@tbird.visix.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:15 EST 1997
Article: 193614 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sean McCafferty <seanm@tbird.visix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How Deep to Mortise?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 13:22:36 -0500
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I am making a very simple kitchen table.  I am mortising the legs
to accept the skirt boards and I was wondering what depth should it
be.  I read that the thickness of the tenon should be 1/3 the overall
width of the board, is this correct?  What about the height of the 
tenon?

Also,  how far inset should the skirt board be?  I know that this
is a question of how it will look, but is there anything I should
consider?  I was thinking of just doing 1/8" reveal.

Just FYI.  The legs are 3.5 inches thick and the skirt boards are
5/4.


Thanks in advance for any help.

-seanm



From geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca Wed Apr  2 12:10:16 EST 1997
Article: 193615 of rec.woodworking
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From: geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca (Gene Herzberg)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: plans for outhouse
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:54:20 -0400
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We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.

Thanks

Gene


From tandt@netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:17 EST 1997
Article: 193616 of rec.woodworking
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From: tandt@netcom.com (Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas)
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Problem ...UPDATE...
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Greetings,

I tightened the blade on my Delta 14 per Suffolk's instructions and 
found the tension pointer pointed to the same mark, i.e. blade size,
as the blade size. In other words, following either Delta's or Suffolk's
advice produced the same result on  a relatively new Delta 14. Since age
will not affect the results of Suffolk's advice, I will use it
to re-calibrate the Delta scale for each new blade.

Sincerely,
Bill Thomas
/*============================================================================*/
David Roseman (droseman@erols.com) wrote:
: On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:16:08 GMT, aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor)
: wrote:

: > The tension
: >mark on the bandsaws are just the starting point, if the blade is
: >still wandering after all the guides are set and the bearings are set
: >you need to increase the blade tension. Don't be afraid of hurting
: >your bandsaw it can take a reasonable increase in tension over the
: >suggested mark. 
...
: to your posts, tension in the 25,000 psi range with a 1/4" blade is
: easily achieved on a Delta or Delta-clone 14" bandsaw without a
: pipewrench.  This is way beyond the design limitations.  I don't know
: what kind of bandsaw you have, but if you have trouble getting enough
: tension without a pipe wrench something sounds seriously wrong.  Also,
: you might want to try one of the "low tension" silicon steel blades
: manufactured by Suffolk Machinery Corp in Patchogue, New York.
: 800-234-7297 for a catalogue.  PS Machines (I think others) sells the
: same blades in blister packs for alot more money than factory direct.
: These blades claim to produce better cuts at lower tension than
: conventional blades.  dcr  


From klb@ti.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:19 EST 1997
Article: 193617 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kurt Blank" <klb@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi radial arm saw any good???
Date: 31 Mar 1997 18:25:52 GMT
Organization: Information Technology Group, Texas Instruments
Lines: 22
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <01bc3e00$ca80c4d0$2a35759c@cna0165254>
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I bought one the first year the 8 1/4" came out.  I thought it a good idea,
since I had an 8 1/4" table saw.  As it turned out, I learned that it's
probably not best practice to use my Table Saw blades on the radial. 
Anyway, I've had it a long time and have been very pleased with the results
achieved.  

Hodcarry <hodcarry@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970329134101.IAA05743@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I have a small (I frankly don't know if they have a large model) Ryobi
and
> am pretty pleased with it.  I have given it more use in the last two
years
>  than most hobbists would in a lifetime It has sort of an automatic cable
> attached to the saw motor that controls pretty  well the rate of cutting.

>  The problems I have had, frankly have been my fault, and would have been
> avoided with better work practices.
> Having said that you do get pretty much what you pay and if cost were no
> object I would have gotten amuch better saw.
>   There is a good quality table saw in the shop and it is used for those
> cuts where it is best suited. 
> 


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:20 EST 1997
Article: 193618 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:45:15 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
Message-ID: <haubert.234.002131B6@mbi.org>
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In article <009B207D.1E46D0F0@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU> barss@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS) writes:
>From: barss@Violet.CCIT.Arizona.EDU (ANDREW BARSS)
>Subject: Re: Why is most old furniture so dark?
>Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 17:25:14 GMT



>        You also have to consider larger forces at work.  Prior to
>the industrial revolution, there were fewer dust particles in the
>atmosphere, so the light from the sun was typically brighter
>than it is today.  So, the woods that look so dark to us now, looked
>significantly lighter to the original craftsmen who built the classical
>furniture of the 18th and 19th centuries.  The main reason Scandinavian
>furniture has consistently always been light-colored is simply because
>those countries are far enough North that sunlight has always been
>moderately weak up there.


Hahahahaaaaaaaaaaaa!  That's a good one, Andrew!  The next time someone tells 
me, 'you should have put a stain on that', I'll just say, 'Nah, you just 
need to use dimmer light!'


Rich
Just say a lot of northerners like Jacobbean, too!


From jwillcoxon@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:21 EST 1997
Article: 193619 of rec.woodworking
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From: jwillcoxon@aol.com (JWILLCOXON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing petrified masking tape?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 19:00:36 GMT
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Go by your local sign supply store. A chemical called Orange Peel is the
best stuff
we have ever used. it will remove the adhesive with a couple of wipes.



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:22 EST 1997
Article: 193620 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 1/4" Raised Pannel Router Bit
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:02:11 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <333F0FB1.25FF@ibm.net> Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net> writes:
>Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:13:21 -0500
>From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
>Subject: 1/4" Raised Pannel Router Bit

>I only own a 2HP router with a 1/4" collet.  I want to make raised
>pannels with my router table.  

>Until now, I have only bought CMT bits, beliving that they were the best
>quality.  But they do not sell a 1/4" bit, vertical or horizontal.  

>In e-mail with them, they say that it cannot be done safely.  But other
>manufactuers do sell such bits.

Indeed they do.  Despite another's comment about killing yourself, it can be 
done safely.  It depends far more on TECHNIQUE than equipment - something that 
manufacturers can't count on, for liability reasons.

The 1/4" shaft panel-raisers usually have a smaller diameter overall radius 
than the 1/2" - typically about 2.5, versus 3.5.  The problem is the thin 
shaft.  A 1/2" shaft is EIGHT times stiffer than a 1/4" shaft, assuming the 
same material and length.

It's possible you can get a 1/2" collet for your router.  If not, you might 
consider buying a new one, depending on how much use you anticipate, and how 
nice your current router is.

Another option is to use verical panel raisers, which typically have a 1.5" 
diameter, but of course are tall.

Regardless, 2 HP IS enough, as long as you take multiple passes.  In fact, you 
should take multiple passes with ANY router, whenever you take off a 
significant amount of material.

>Yes, I should buy a 4HP 220v router or something, but until then ... ;)

A 15 amp router is fine, but heavy.


Rich


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:22 EST 1997
Article: 193621 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:09:12 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <859783063.20329@dejanews.com> dcjordan@bellsouth.net writes:
>Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 22:41:32 -0600
>From: dcjordan@bellsouth.net
>Subject: Finish for Cherry furniture

>I am building a shaker style entertainment center out of cherry.  Any
>suggestions on a method for finishing and stains?  I really like the
>finish that Ethan Allan has on some of their cherry furniture.

>-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


Many people don't know this, but many of the Shaker communities, when short on 
woodworking talent, would fire up the horses and head on over to Ethan Allen.

Here's the sure-fire recipe  for furniture store cherry 'finish':  Get a can 
of Sears 'Evening Shade' magenta paint.  Thin with water, one part water to 
three parts paint.  Apply two thin coats.  Spray with lacquer.  You're done!

By sticking with the same color of paint, you can be assured of always 
matching the exact color, if you ever want another piece to match.  That way 
you don't have to worry about 'conflicting grain patterns' or that troublesome 
characteristic of cherry darkening with age.

Rich



From clarke@sgi.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:23 EST 1997
Article: 193622 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Clarke <clarke@sgi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Toxic Pressure treated wood.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:13:06 -0800
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
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Database Coder wrote:
> 
> I have used the green pressure treated wood around my garden quite
> a bit. I recently purchased two 16 foot 4x6's that were pressure
> treated, but these were BLACK not green. I was told later that they
> contain Arsenic! Yow shouldn't I have told this at the time of
> purchase? The green pressure treated has some form of copper in it
> doesn't it? Should I get the green stuff away from my vegetable 
> plants?  I read in the gardening news group that pressure treated
> can be used for raised planter boxes because the copper doesn't
> leach out. The Black would has a bluish green crystal type material
> oozing from it here and there.
> --
> somebody@inow.com
> www2.inow.com/~somebody

This is a religious subject for many people.  My religion is that I
don't use the stuff.  Organic Gardening regularly runs articles on 
"misinformation" from the treated wood industry about how safe the 
product is and supposedly bogus research that's been done to support 
that conclusion.  Besides, for me, out in CA there's no real reason to
use it as far as I can tell.  I've never had a problem with untreated 
wood in my landscaping. Untreated redwood will last for years if it's 
properly  installed.  My planter beds are ~5 years old and look fine.
I may have to replace the 4x4s that the sides bolt into in another year 
or  two, but that's a pretty simple and cheap job, and the sides show no 
damage at all.

OG is currently offering a pamphlet with their latest research,
which purports to show incredible amounts of leachage from treated
wood, including soil beneath decks and from play structures built
with treated wood.  I wasn't aware of a difference between the
green and the black stuff.  The pamphlet may talk about this.
I was under the impression (perhaps wrongly) that retailers are
required by law to make available some sort of toxicity report on
the product since it is essentially a hazardous material.  And any 
directions I've ever seen on using the product recommends using at
least a mask to avoid breathing the dust (though you'd do the same
even if it wasn't impregnated with chemicals).

------------
David Clarke


From bernie.hasselman@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:10:24 EST 1997
Article: 193623 of rec.woodworking
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From: bernie.hasselman@sympatico.ca (Bernie Hasselman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:56:40 GMT
Organization: Sympatico
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An excellent book that you might check out is Router Jigs and
Techniques. by Spielman (sp?) 
He has a number of jigs and tables that can be made at home, simply.



lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD) wrote:

>The library is still the best place to get free plans and generally the
>last place anyone looks,,If you have a nice Saw deck then drill a few
>holes in it and make a router table outta it,,I think the router tables
>that let ya lift the router up still connected to top are best..
>                          LW
>

>-----------------------------------------------------------------

>CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)

>         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec

>-----------------------------------------------------------------

>

>

>-----------------------------------------------------------------

>CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)

>         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec

>-----------------------------------------------------------------

>




From cknight@flash.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:25 EST 1997
Article: 193624 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Knight <cknight@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:10:33 -0600
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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jcw wrote:
> I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen
> cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is to
> leave them natural with no stain.  

Sounds good so far...in this group, staining cherry is almost considered
a 
sin.  While a very light wash of color can enhance the grain, it can be
hard 
to get it even...unstained is beautiful.

> In terms of the
> finish, I don't own expensive spraying equipment so my options seem limited.

Why?  Chippendale didn't have a spraying rig, either...neither did Adam, 
Hepplewhite, or any of the other famous frniture makers of the last few 
centuries.  It didn't ruin *their* work...

> Is it advisable to go with a polyurethane (water based) product such as Minwax
> which I can get in a spray can or are there better choices?  

NO!  No spray cans...

Here are some tips for a successful finish.  First, cherry has a
wonderful, 
deep beautiful grain...we don't want to cover it up.  A penetrating
finish 
would probably mess it up.  Ordinarily, I would use something like
shellac,
but as this is a kitchen you need something tougher.

An oil finish is quite beautiful.  Hand rubbed tung oil can be a
magnificent
finish...it's the finish on the chair I'm sitting in right now, and it's
held
up beautifully over the years.  However, while it will really show off
the
figure of the grain, there is an even better choice.

A linseed oil finish will show off the grain in cherry best of all the
finishes
that I'm aware of.  Hand rubbed, it can create a mirror smooth surface,
and the
grain looks almost like stained glass...you look *into* the wood, rather
than
*at* its surface.  But, it's a lot of work...and it takes a long time to
dry.

There's a "new" product that's been mentioned in the newsgroup
lately...a
"diamond" finish varathane which is said to have the same kinds of
qualities
I'm talking about for the oil finishes...fantastically deep finish. 
I've not
tried it...it seems to also be a lot of work, but also worth the
trouble.

> As always, thanks for the help.

Well, remember that cherry is photosensitive...it will darken on
exposure to
light.  Specifically UV...a UV blocking finish will help prevent this,
but
the gorgeous darkened tones of naturally aged cherry is something that I
cherish.  *I* wouldn't *want* to prevent the darkening.

To keep the kitchen "light" I would carefully choose my accessories. 
For
example, while beautiful, many people choose a dark black marble or
granite
for countertops, for use with cherry cabinets.  This lends an overall
"darker"
look than something lighter.  Even something like a white solid surface 
material can look quite nice, and significantly "lightens" the
room...the
cherry can stand on its own.  Similarly, instead of black appliances,
steel
or white can also look quite nice, and also lighten the room.

Just trying to make you aware that, while the cabinets are the bulk of
the 
visual mass of the room...the accessories are what can really "make" it.

     -- Chuck Knight


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:26 EST 1997
Article: 193625 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:19:32 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <5hoqhd$9d4$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM> whylandj@kodak.com (jcw) writes:
>From: whylandj@kodak.com (jcw)
>Subject: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
>Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 16:51:17 GMT

>I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen 
>cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is to 
>leave them natural with no stain.  How will this look (or is it recommended to 
>at least apply a light stain to help bring out the grain)?

Cherry looks by far the best with a plain oil finish.  Legislators are 
currently considering a bill sponsored by O'Deen and myself to outlaw staining 
cherry.

Stain does NOT 'bring out the grain' - it only hides the natural color.  BTW, 
it's called 'figure'.


  In terms of the 
>finish, I don't own expensive spraying equipment so my options seem limited.  
>Is it advisable to go with a polyurethane (water based) product such as Minwax 
>which I can get in a spray can or are there better choices? 

I've tried water-based products on cherry.  I thought it was pretty, until I 
made several items from cherry, and finished them with oil.  No contest.

Because of the abuse kitchen cabinets get (from wet and dirty hands all day, 
every day), using PU is certainly tempting.  If you do, though, stick with 
oil-based, for beauty's sake.

Rich




From *pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:27 EST 1997
Article: 193626 of rec.woodworking
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From: *pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Test of de-spam - DONT READ
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Test

Brad W.

To reply e-mail, please remove the asterix from the front
of my e-mail address.  Its a pain, but so are spammers.


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:10:28 EST 1997
Article: 193627 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: 31 Mar 1997 19:06:37 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <333F2C30.1FC3@sure.net>, glueman@sure.net says...
>
>I've read over and over about comments that hot melt does not provide
>permanent bond and that it is only good for temporary bonds.  Has anyone
>looked at expensive oak furnitures?  How about table tops?  Read any
>good books?  You'll find hot melts holding these things together.  Hot
>melt formula varies a lot and there are so much to choose from.  Hot
>melt moisture-cure like H.B. Fuller's HL-9527 bonds Polypropylene to
>Polypropylene.  If you need more information or have a specific
>question, send me an e-mail.
>
>Regards,
>
>Glueman

Well, since you have a vested interest in hot melt glue sticks, this
is the sort of response I would expect.  You should also be able
to provide us with some technical and performance data to back
up your claims, i.e. bond strength, shear strength, etc.  Please do so.

There are indeed some applications where hot melt adhesives work
well -- very few of them are related to high quality woodworking.
In fact, veneering is the only application which readily comes to mind.

As far as expensive oak furniture being held together by hot melt,
well, I'm still giggling over that one...


-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From bmikiten@txdirect.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:29 EST 1997
Article: 193628 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brian Mikiten <bmikiten@txdirect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS: 4 1/2 Square hinges - CHEAP!
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:53:50 -0800
Organization: Adtec Detention Systems, Inc.
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Commercial supply company is selling 1192 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" square stanley 
hinges. These products are prime painted heavy duty wrought hinges and 
sell at contractor's prices for $35.00 each. We have excess inventory and 
will let them go for $20.00 in lots of 100 minimum. 

  Brian
-- 


<<< The ability to love is taught by parents. Only until you
have children of your own do you understand the full meaning
of what your parents did for you and the awesome responsibility 
they took on. Only with love could they have conquered those 
battles of childhood and adolescence. >>>

Brian Mikiten 
All opinions listed herein are my own



From cring@concentric.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:30 EST 1997
Article: 193629 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for chest
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:12:38 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
Lines: 16
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Richard TOLLAN wrote:
> 
> Newcomer to woodwork (and the internet!) looking for straightforward
> plans for a general utility type chest (storage of tools, perhaps). Any
> ideas?
> 
> Rich

There are tool chests, blanket chests and other to be found at:
http://www.theoak.com/gary/
-- 
C.E.(Chuck) Ring
Madera Encantada (Enchanted Wood)
http://theoak.com/chuck/index.html
http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html



From jldalton@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:31 EST 1997
Article: 193630 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Dalton <jldalton@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:28:23 -0500
Organization: Pak-Tec
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I have sold adhesives to the furniture industry for 28 years, and know a
bit about it.  Hot melt glue sticks, such a found in your typical glue
gun, are formulated primarily from Ethylene Vinyl Acetate, (EVA), and
probably do not offer structural, (permanent) bonds for most adhesive
applications.  The "hot melt" used by the old craftsmen was hot glue,
but it was hide glue, which has to be heated in a pot.  It was, and is,
excellent for wood to wood bonds, but messy, smelly, and has short pot
life.
The new moisture cure polyurethanes such as the fuller # glueman cites,
are especially good for bonding wood, as well as plastics, metal, etc. 
A standard glue gun will not dispense these products, however, the
leasst expensive tool I know of for dispensing them is the 3M gun @
$1000.


From brad@capella.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:32 EST 1997
Article: 193631 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brad Erickson <brad@capella.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Any Mobile Base Recommendations?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:17:30 -0800
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I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" fence. Need a mobile base.
the Vega looks interesting??  does anyone have Recommendations???
Thanks,
Brad
-- 

   ***CAPELLA NETWORKING - WEST***		    
   http://capella.sj.ca.us	   Phone:    800-649-7928            
   Email: brad:capella.com	   Fax:      408-358-8710
   Worldwide distributor of:  3Com, Adtran, Ascend, American
   Power, Assurnet, Cisco, Compatible, Computone, Kentrox,
   Livingston, Microcom, PacificBell, Shiva, U.S. Robotics


From clo_barnett@emuvax.emich.edu Wed Apr  2 12:10:32 EST 1997
Article: 193632 of rec.woodworking
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From: clo_barnett@emuvax.emich.edu (Bill Barnett Program Coordinator)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planner search
Date: 31 Mar 97 15:33:51 EST
Organization: Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti
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  I am looking for a used planner at least 12" maybe even 18" with lots of
  power and in good shape.  Iam located in MI and would perfer to "shop
  locally"  anybody got any leads?  Thanks


From r.burson@sylvania.sev.org Wed Apr  2 12:10:33 EST 1997
Article: 193633 of rec.woodworking
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From: r.burson@sylvania.sev.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 21:28:41 -0800
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I put a three pole 30 amp contactor in my panel and turn it on with my
light switch.
I picked contactor up for free,I think cost is about 30 bucks. NEVER tie
wires to the main breaker and short it out you could shut the
neighborhood down breakers are not made to be shorted that way. They
make a shunt trip breaker you could use but it is costly.
I would use one or two 3 pole contactors or a 60 amp and a sub panel.


From jldalton@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:34 EST 1997
Article: 193634 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Jim Dalton <jldalton@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:44:18 -0500
Organization: Pak-Tec
Lines: 4
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References: <19970327162400.LAA17122@ladder01.news.aol.com> <8D4C39C.0233014B1F.uuout@csoft-net.com> <333ffa90.309612@news1.on.sympatico.ca>
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There was a New Yankee Workshop segment a few months ago about building
a router table.  You can buy a video tape of past shows which includes
plans by calling an 800 # which appears at the end of every show.  Check
your public TV listings


From jldalton@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:35 EST 1997
Article: 193635 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Dalton <jldalton@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recycle pallets?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:46:12 -0500
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I have used recycled pallets for lots of stuff and they are OK.  Making
all the boards straight, and flat, will be a problem, but if it was
easy, everyone would be doing it.


From Mercutio@addis.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:36 EST 1997
Article: 193636 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mercutio@addis.net (George M. Middius)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:40:17 GMT
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"Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com> said:

>The guy selling tweezers in this group almost had me ready to buy, till I
>got his SPAM EMAIL. I refuse to buy anything from anyone who SPAMS!
>-- 
>somebody@inow.com
>www2.inow.com/~somebody


Personally, I would classify every post you've made to this NG as
SPAM. Your "analysis" of competing hardware stores was half-baked, and
your childish inability to distinguish between SPAM and the tweezer
guy's obsequious but genuine pitch cast you you as an intellectual
dwarf, and emotional midget, or both. (Apologies to height-challenged
individuals who read this.)


George M. Middius
Mercutio@addis.net



From ktucker*@scsn.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:37 EST 1997
Article: 193637 of rec.woodworking
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From: ktucker*@scsn.net (Kevin W. Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eastern White Cedar
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 20:08:54 GMT
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In article <01bc3c63$d90a6fe0$513cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>, "bcompton" <bcompton@news.megalink.net> wrote:
>I trying to find wood flooring for a small porch.  My question is, can
>eastern white cedar be used for this purpose?  I don't know a think about
>this wood but it is fairly common in my area.
>
>Bill Compton
>bcompton@megalink.net
>

It's very soft, but suited to exterior (moisture) exposure.  Consider it's 
relative softness when considering it for a flooring material.  It will wear 
quicker than many woods, and any heavy objects are sure to leave good-size 
dents.  

Be sure to use stainless steel screws and fasteners - coated don't hold up 
well, and will eventually leave stains.


Kevin W. Tucker
ktucker@scsn.net

(remove the "*" from my address to reply)


From paul@nospam.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:38 EST 1997
Article: 193638 of rec.woodworking
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From: paul@nospam.com (Paul Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressor Size/Type
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:47:23 -0500
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
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Joe,
Forget horsepower.  Pay attention to cfm.  Heres how I suggest you decide
on the compressor you need:  Find the tool you want to use that has the
highest cfm requirement.  Multiply that requirement by 1.5 and find a
compressor capable of producing that much cfm at 100psi.  

Nothing you've listed requires alot of air, unless automotive tools
include sandblasters or dual action sanders.  If you want to use these
things regularily, your best bet is a 2 stage compressor 18+cfm at 100psi
with an 80 gal tank (roughly $800+).  Economically, you could probably get
by with a single stage 12-14 cfm on a 60 gal tank ($350+).  If you want a
compressor to last, stay away from aluminum pump components and get the
"older" oil sump style.  Easy way to identify compressor stage: 2 stage
pressure is regulated at 175psi, single stage is 125psi.

If you don't need the type of automotive tools I've described above, you
can get by with a portable unit.  But, you can have a stationary 60gal
upright single stage for roughly the same cost as a portable if you shop
around.  IMO the best buy, if you buy enough airhose to reach the roof.

Oh, and when shopping air hose for larger tools - you gotta buy large ID. 
On the order of 3/8 to 1/2 inch.  And, most manufacturers suggest running
at least 25 feet of pipe before your separator, in the configuration of a
sloping trunk (away from compressor) with top taps.

Hope this helps,
Paul


In article <333F2336.2E44@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca>, joe@vulcan.achq.dnd.ca wrote:

> Hi there!
> 
>   I am thinking about buying an Air Compressor and want to get some
> ideas from people who have some experience.
> 
>   I plan to use the Compressor to power;
>    * Finish Nailers/Tackers in the Workshop,
>    * Impact Wrench and other Automotive Tools, and
>    * Framing Nailer and Roofing Nailer when I put an addition on our
> house.
> 
> What is the Minimum recommended Horsepower I will require ?
> 
> Which is better, the Newer Oilless type or the "OLDER" Oil in the sump
> style?
> 
> THNX in advance Joe McSh


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:38 EST 1997
Article: 193639 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: routers
Date: 31 Mar 1997 21:10:59 GMT
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In article <333ff3f4.123821052@news.bright.net>, aht@mail.bright.net (Al Taylor) writes:

>. A router can be a dangerous thing, learn about direction of
>bit spin vs. direction of cut. Learn about how much you should cut out
>at one time among other things and the router will become a truly
>versatile machine.
>
>

Certainly support everything Al has said becausebeen there done that syndrome!  Went through the identical evolution.  When requested to demonstrate to a neighbors sister and daughter how to use a
router in a table the first step I selected was direction of feed.  HOLD THE WOOD TIGHT and feed with the direction of the bit.  Wrong way to feed wood but dramatically demonstrates how the bit can
pull the wood out of your hands.  I felt it could overcome the thought of complacency that might invole the very versatile tool!  Climb cutting is a viable and important method of cutting but it is
done with prior decision and intent!  Again, being redundant, the router is certainly a versatile tool.  Enjoy!


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:39 EST 1997
Article: 193640 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mikita Tablesaw "System"
Date: 31 Mar 1997 21:11:02 GMT
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In article <333FDAD7.72BA@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>, Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu> writes:

>I've had my BT-3000 for about five years and I'm pretty sure I've moved
>a
>bit beyond the beginner stage of woodworking.  Of course I'd like to
>upgrade
>but not to a Jet or Delta contractor saw.  I'll bet every table saw
>owner
>who doesn't have one would like to upgrade to a Delta Unisaw or
>Powermatic 66
>but I wouldn't consider moving to a Jet CS an "upgrade" from the
>BT-3000.

Well said Paul and my BT3000 is about 5 years old.  I am a happy camper with what it does and get tired of people calling it a piece of s**t!


From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:40 EST 1997
Article: 193641 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: 31 Mar 1997 20:22:03 GMT
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I don't care how good a product is, if you buy from a SPAMMER you encourage
SPAMMING!

Dave Fessler <fessler@erols.com> wrote in article
<333FF30A.6FB0@erols.com>...
> Database Coder wrote:
> > 
> > The guy selling tweezers in this group almost had me ready to buy, till
I
> > got his SPAM EMAIL. I refuse to buy anything from anyone who SPAMS!
> > --
> > somebody@inow.com
> > www2.inow.com/~somebody
> Your loss, I'm afraid.
> 


From William@hatari.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:41 EST 1997
Article: 193642 of rec.woodworking
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From: "William Payne" <William@hatari.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Job Opening - Wood Fabrication Technician
Date: 31 Mar 1997 21:16:51 GMT
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Dynamic Laser Applications Incorporated is looking for a motivated
individual to fill a technical position in their rapidly growing company.

The position requires the following:

General Knowledge:

Understanding of hardwoods, both domestic and exotic. Working understanding
of most all wood working tools.  Specifically, commercial bandsaws, table
saws, planners, routers, drum, belt, and orbital sanders.  Finishing and
HVLP spray equipment.  Experience in the us of vacuum presses for
laminating
wood inlays is desirable.

Job Responsibilities:

Reporting to the Production Manager.  This position is responsible for
maintaining production schedules in the manufacturing of Laser-cut inlays
of borders and medallions of working closely with Laser operator and design
engineering in co-ordinating the flow of product from the cutting stage to
shipping.  Responsible for maintaining preventative maintenance schedules,
and equipment maintenance, sending saw blades out for sharpening.  The
operatior will also make recommendations for shop layout and improving
production flow.

Saftey:

Working knowledge and awareness of safety procedures involved in a
woodworking environment.  Capable of overseeing safety training and the use
of all safety equipment utilized in the shop.


Please send resume and application information to:

Scott Chastain
Dynamic Laser Applications
4704 Ecton Drive
Marietta, GA,  30066
(770) 924-4998

or email us at dynlaser@bellsouth.net




From woodshedii@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:42 EST 1997
Article: 193643 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:22:14 -0600
From: woodshedii@aol.com
Subject: New Scrollsaw Patterns
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859842987.16629@dejanews.com>
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I am starting a web site dedicated to the scrollsaw and wood carvings.
Having free patterns from around the world ready for download. The site
is small at the moment but will be expanding fast. the sight is:

http://members.aol.com/WoodshedII/woodshed.html

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mikemac@engr.sgi.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:42 EST 1997
Article: 193644 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: 31 Mar 1997 21:27:59 GMT
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In article <5hofpu$r2a@nyx.cs.du.edu>,
	rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) writes:
> On a cabinet, the top usually has the grain running the long way and no 
> trim in back right?  The piece of trim in the front, with its grain also 
> running the long way will change dimension exactly the same as the 
> material of the top so at the two miters, there's no discrepancy.  The sides 
> will probably have their grain at right angles to the trim so that's 
> where the problem occures.  By anchoring the trim in front at the miter 
> and letting it "sleep" on the dovetails, the discrepancy in dimensional 
> change between the sides and the side trim will show up as a projection 
> of the trim past the back of the cabinet when the sides shrink.  This 
> approach should put NO strain on the miters.
> 
> rhg

  This all makes sense provided the top is made out of the same material that
the molding is made out of. In my case, that's not true. The molding is solid
oak. The top is oak veneered plywood. I'd expect them to expand differently.
(I'm a newbie so I have no idea if what I'm saying makes sense or not. It's
just my educated guess.)

  Does anyone have a table of expansion factors for various woods and
composites? I'd guess it'd have to specify what temperature and humidity range
it was for.

  Mike McDonald
  mikemac@engr.sgi.com


From KenScotInc@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:43 EST 1997
Article: 193645 of rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 00:38:12 -0500
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From: Scott Duncan <KenScotInc@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: ARTISTS/SCULPTORS
Lines: 20
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193645

      This is the first publication of the Ken Scott catalog.
      This catalog has two primary purposes, the first is to expose the work
of America's artists.  The second is to sell the art.  This catalog primarily
focuses on modern art and will encompass everything from paintings to
furniture.

        * Each piece of art will first be submitted for approval by Ken Scott

          Incorporated.
        * Each artist must be able to reproduce their work in volume and will
sign a
           binding agreement.
        * There is no fee for submittal.
        * Each artist may submit as many pieces as they want.
        * If an artists work is approved there will  a $60 printing fee and
they are
          guaranteed one print in the catalog.  If the art sells there will
be no additional
          fee and  the art will be placed in the following catalog.
        * Ken Scott Incorporated prices eack work and the proceeds are split
50/50.


From swiharts@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:44 EST 1997
Article: 193646 of rec.woodworking
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From: swiharts@sprynet.com (Steve Swihart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 21:45:25 GMT
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Hello.

I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
charge they take doesn't last very long.

I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
does.  Is this true?

FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
they're home tools.

TIA.

-Steve


From MichaelB44@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:45 EST 1997
Article: 193647 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:36:52 -0500
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Michael Bernal <MichaelB44@AOL.COM>
Subject: I WANT OFF!!!
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193647

I want off this list. What do I do?
thankyou


From mraynes@bloomu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:10:46 EST 1997
Article: 193648 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Raynes <mraynes@bloomu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: checking for square?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:44:33 -0500
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I have been having fun at woodworking for about 5 years now. One thing
that has always given me trouble is getting an assembly good and square.
I follow the standard method of measuring the diagonals to make sure
they are equal, but I get mixed results. Sometime the clamps are too
close to the corners, or too close to the frame that I can't slip the
tape measure underneath the clamps. All the tape measures have some play
in the ends,  and I wonder if that influences the results. Can the
actual width of the tape give inaccurate result? And when it is not
square, loosening one clamp and tightening the other makes little
difference.
Any information about techniques that you use would be greatly
appreciated.

I realize from your responses that  many of you are highly skilled so
these might seem like silly questions.  But I am beginning to build a
set of kitchen cabinets, and I realize that must get better at this real
quick!
I assembled my first case and actually got that square, but just cut
apart the first face frame because it wasn't. I've tuned saw as good as
I can get it, and I even bought a set of bessey clamps to help. However,
I don't think tools are the answer. Craftsmanship must be the solution.



From jelam@intrex.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:47 EST 1997
Article: 193649 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J. Cliff Elam" <jelam@intrex.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Redwood Decking Board Question
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:51:47 -0500
Organization: Intrex Inc.
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I had a similar problem once - the guy that was 'helping' me build his
deck used a 4 penny #6 nail to space his boards. Groan.

I just took my (PC) circular saw, set the depth so I wouldn't notch the
joists, and widened the boards by the saw kerf.  Years later and it
seems to have worked well.

- Cliff

Martin Eastburn wrote:
> 
> Depends on where you are, and what sunlight is hitting them (also).
> 
> In anycase I would leave 1 nail width between boards.
> (if they are dry and really dry, the rain will swell them -
>  you don't want to have them buckle.)
> 
> I have a large deck - most in the sun - and it dries in the summer.
> My lower deck, always in the shade, never dried out; and expanded
> the nail width - boards touch.  These are on the edge of risk due
> to tension.
> 
> Martin


From gutkow@epg.sdd.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:48 EST 1997
Article: 193650 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry Gutkowski <gutkow@epg.sdd.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Should I work a kill switch into my shop wiring?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:04:49 -0800
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I recently had a 60 amp panel run from my main. I waffled as to whether
I would install a "master" swtich to the subpanel. In the end, that's
what I did, and I am _extremely_ glad I did. My motive was not for a
"kill" switch as much as for a "lock-out" switch. My shop is actually my
garage that my young boys have access to. I don't let them play around
my tools especially when I am working. But every once in a while, I'll
have to run into the house (e.g., bathroom) for a moment. I have _great_
peace of mind knowing I can kill the power to _every_ tool with one
switch. I can (and do) also lock the switch (5.5 feet off the ground) to
prevent kids from turning it on. My garage lights are on a separate
circuit off the main panel.

The only problem I have is for my rechargeable tools. If I cut the power
to all of the outlets, not much charging is going to happen. As such I
like the suggestion below by Tom Gauldin.

The next thing I would like to do is install some sort of glowing pilot
light that tells me when the subpanel is energized. I can certainly tell
right now by observing the position of the switch handle. But a light
would catch my attention more. There have been times where I've gone out
to the garage and noticed I forgot to flip the switch off (my tools were
put away and unplugged of course).

Larry

Tom Gauldin wrote:
> 
> Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> 
> >John Halbur wrote:
> >>
> >> I have been waffling over whether or not to put a kill switch (or switches) on the
> >> outlets for tools (don't want to kill the lights!) in my new backyard workshop.
> 
> You might consider feeding two adjoining panels.  One would be for the lights
> and would not have its own main circuit breaker.  Beside it would be a second
> panel that would have a 100 amp main breaker disconnecting all other breakers
> in the panel.  When you left the shop for the day, you could just flip off the
> main on that panel, which would kill all the circuits you intended to have
> dead.  At the same time,  you'd have the flexibility of deciding whether NEW
> circuits would go to the "continuously on" panel or the one that you would
> kill each night.
> 
> Tom


From PSHULLDC@msn.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:49 EST 1997
Article: 193651 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:02:11 -0600
From: PSHULLDC@msn.com
Subject: Biscuit advice needed
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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To what extent would you trust a joint joined by biscuits? I want to
build a sofa table out of ash and maybe oak. I got a Freud biscuit joiner
for Christmas and bought some Queen Anne legs from Builder's Square. I
don't have a drill press or any other means of easily cutting mortises,
so of course I'm thinking I could join the apron and the legs with
biscuits. I'm planning on backing up each corner with a diagonal cleat.
Good idea? Bad idea? Let me know what you think. Your input is
appreciated.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From gregd@shore.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:50 EST 1997
Article: 193652 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Gregory Dolan" <gregd@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER
Date: 31 Mar 1997 22:03:23 GMT
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That's easy...Porter-Cable routers



Peter Tennant Woods <ptwoods@iafrica.com> wrote in article
<01bc39f6$3fb50fe0$4fb107c4@jarwoods.iafrica.com>...
> Hello
> 
> What is the best make of routers?
> Thanks
> Richard Woods
> jarwoods@ iafrica.com
> 
> 


From jeddy@pcsedu.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:50 EST 1997
Article: 193653 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:30:48 -0700
From: Jason <jeddy@pcsedu.com>
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I am in the market for a couple of air nailers.  I would like a 14/15
gauge angle finish nail as well as an 18 gauge brad/pin nailer.  The
Grizzly nailers of this type are in my price range, but I am unsure of
their quality.  I have numerous other Grizzly tools, and am _very_
pleased with them.

Does anybody have any experience with the Grizzly nailers, or some
helpful advice for me?  Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason
jeddy@pcsedu.com


From KenScotInc@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:51 EST 1997
Article: 193654 of rec.woodworking
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      Ken Scott Incorporated is conducting a nation wide search for artists
who may want their work represented in the summer 1997 edition of the Ken
Scott catalog.  This catalog will represent a wide array of art.  If you feel
you have a piece that is worthy of submittal, please reply for further
information.


From KenScotInc@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:52 EST 1997
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      Ken Scott Incorporated is conducting a nation wide search for artists
who may want their work represented in the summer 1997 edition of the Ken
Scott catalog.  This catalog will represent a wide array of art.  If you feel
you have a piece worthy of submital, please reply.


From a.bostick@JUNO.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:53 EST 1997
Article: 193656 of rec.woodworking
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On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:13:27 GMT Ray Ewing <ray@OAKHARBOR.NET> writes:
>I apologize for taking your time on this but I just changed internet
>providers and cannot seem to receive e-mail from my daughter on the
>other
>coast.  Would someone please e-mail as a test to see if the problem is
>my
>internet provider or if its on my  daughters end?
>
>Thank You,
>
>Ray
>


From a.bostick@JUNO.COM Wed Apr  2 12:10:55 EST 1997
Article: 193657 of rec.woodworking
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On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:34:07 -0500 WOOD TRADE DATA BASE
<valdis@GALVA.HMS.BKC.LV> writes:
>This article is posted from WOOD TRADE DATA BASE
>http://www.hms.bkc.lv/aek
>*** To Remove:  Please hit reply & type "remove from WTDB" in the
>subject.
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Our company is specialized in the coating of thin wood panels using
>Mdf, Mdf
> painted, fibra or chipboards panels like support.
> Our product is called NOBILXIL.
> For coating we use finish, vynil foils or continous low pressure
>laminate.
> The back of the panel could be raw, with balancing paper or
> 2 finish foils faces.
>
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>2,5 mm.
> to 10 mm.(but we can produce higher tickness).
>
> EMPLOYMENT : a vast uses of the NOBILXIL panels is present in the
>industries
> that produce SHUTTERS, back of the FURNITURE or KITCHENS. They come
>used for
> the manufacture of rears of PICTURES and MIRRORS, COMMERCIAL-ARTISTS,
> DRAWERS, DOORS or STANDS.
>
> If you have any interest about our productions, I will be glad to
>send you
> more information about dimentions, foils and our samples by
>TNT-TRACO.
>
>FEDERICO LASTRUCCI f.lastrucci@leonet.it
> Foreign Office
> COMECO srl
> ITALY
>
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>*******************************************************************
>WOOD TRADE DATA BASE sent you this message using WorldMerge,
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>to your customers, subscribers, leads or friends.
>
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From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:10:55 EST 1997
Article: 193658 of rec.woodworking
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From: BigJim <bigjim@ALASKA.NET>
Subject: Re: routers
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193658

At 12:17 AM 3/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
>In order:
>1. Get a router with both.

I agree.. and choose the 1/2 drive bits where possible <stronger>.

>2. I really like my Porter-Cable 90690. Basically same as 690.

Yes, the 690 series is nice, particularly because you can get different
bases for the  same router and have a conventional and plunge router, or
leave one attached to a router table.
The Bosch 2 & 3.5hp variable speed, soft start routers are very highly
regarded in the group too.. as are Freud.
I have a Ryobi RE600 <3.5 hp> unit that works very well for me... even if
it is a wee bit heavy for large amounts of freehand work.

>3. They are truly one of the most versitile tools in the shop.

I totally agree.. and most shops end up with several.. with some <mostly>
dedicated to router tables and/or one or so laminate trimmer weight, one or
more around the 1.5-2hp size, and one or more in the 3 - 3.5hp range for
spinning the large bits.

Jim aka BigJim


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:10:56 EST 1997
Article: 193659 of rec.woodworking
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At 02:07 PM 3/30/97 GMT, Bill wrote:
>Hi:
>
>I'm looking at a used planer and have been told that it has a 220V motor.
>Not sure where they came up with this voltage.....I assume they mean 240V?
>Since my shop is my garage, I don't have it wired for any 240V equipment.
>I know I can always put a 240V outlet in, but I would rather not.  I know
>that my radial arm saw and my table saw can be wired for either voltage
>(120 or 240V).  Should I assume that this 240V Bellsaw planer can also be
>run at 120V?  How can I tell by looking at the motor?
>

You need to look at the metal nameplate on the motor itself.  You cannot
make this assumption.  Some single phase motors are 120V, some 120/240,
some 240 and some 240/480 (larger industrial, usually).

The other key thing to look carefully to see if it indicates single <or
split> phase versus 3 phase <often abbreviated 1ph or 3ph>.  Other
indications of 3 phase is that the nameplate should say 208 instead of 220
or 240.  Few residences have 3 phase power available, and the cost of
wiring for 3 phase or buying / building a 3 phase inverter is often
prohibitive, unless you have a shop full of 3 phase equipment and plan to
use it  lot.


From chmielewski@hnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:57 EST 1997
Article: 193660 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!not-for-mail
From: Claude Chmielewski <chmielewski@hnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:41:25 -0600
Organization: Fillmore Fantom
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PSHULLDC@msn.com wrote:
> 
> To what extent would you trust a joint joined by biscuits? I want to
> build a sofa table out of ash and maybe oak. I got a Freud biscuit joiner
> for Christmas and bought some Queen Anne legs from Builder's Square. I
> don't have a drill press or any other means of easily cutting mortises,
> so of course I'm thinking I could join the apron and the legs with
> biscuits. I'm planning on backing up each corner with a diagonal cleat.
> Good idea? Bad idea? Let me know what you think. Your input is
> appreciated.
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
In most applications work great. But in this case, mortise and tenon are
the only way to go. A biscuit won't give you the strength needed to
support weight.
Claude


From chmielewski@hnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:10:58 EST 1997
Article: 193661 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!not-for-mail
From: Claude Chmielewski <chmielewski@hnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:44:50 -0600
Organization: Fillmore Fantom
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To: Gene Herzberg <geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193661

Gene Herzberg wrote:
> 
> We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
> replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
> Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gene
Why don't you just copy the old one. This is basic carpentry not rocket
science. Besides if you had plans you would have to adjust the size to
fit your location any way.
Good Luck, Claude


From deloid@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:10:59 EST 1997
Article: 193662 of rec.woodworking
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From: deloid@aol.com (DeloID)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Redwood arbor (Norms)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 22:48:02 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Second time building the arched redwood arbor that is designed by Norms
group. I cannot recall now if the arch pieces (2x8's) are simply glued up
or glued and screwed. Anyone done this project?

Dean
Deloid@aol.com


From danckert@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:00 EST 1997
Article: 193664 of rec.woodworking
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From: danckert@mindspring.com (Michael J. Danckert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table Saw Recommendations ($600 budget)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:02:46 GMT
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I am interested in finding out what some of the best quality
contractor style table saws are in the $400-$600 price range. I have
not seen any comparison articles or reviews lately and would
appreciate hearing from some of you who have saws in that price range.


Thanks, Mike Danckert



From tony.vickers@sdrc.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:01 EST 1997
Article: 193665 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tony Vickers <tony.vickers@sdrc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HVLP using Latex for woodworking
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:37:22 -0500
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I have built an entertainment center out of birch plywood. I am going to
paint it to match the rest of the trim in our house. The question arises
as to what material to use for paint. I want to use an HVLP system to
get a quality finish, and have bought a high quality latex paint. A few
articles I have recently read have conflicting negative reports on using
latex paint with an HVLP system. Does anyone have any experience or
suggestions on this issue. Should I just break down and use an alkyd
paint? 

Tony Vickers
tony.vickers@sdrc.com


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:02 EST 1997
Article: 193666 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Machinery, horror story concluded
Date: 31 Mar 1997 23:07:19 GMT
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In article <01bc3dc6$f5991300$e67904c7@mycomputer.dsp.com>, "Ron Picchi" <julio@dsp.com> writes:

>, Woodworker's itself was
>very responsive to my complaints and was willing to resolve the situation
>to my satisfaction,   --- Special thanks to Arlene in their traffic
>department.    

It is SO NICE to see some positive words anywhere!  I wont name names with respect to some of the commentaries around here that are more appropriate to the sandbox crowd.  Thank you for a bright
spot!


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:03 EST 1997
Article: 193667 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:32:10 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:


;and most of CA qualify as such.   In a true four season state, it's a

;different story.

;Rich
If they play baseball in the snow I suppose that is then considered a
4 season state?
mjh



From root@dvg.e-burg.ru Wed Apr  2 12:11:04 EST 1997
Article: 193668 of rec.woodworking
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From: "×ÁĚĹŇÉ" <root@dvg.e-burg.ru>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: business-wood
Date: 31 Mar 1997 23:33:39 GMT
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begin 600 les.txe
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&+3(U+30U
`
end



From mordechi@tiac.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:05 EST 1997
Article: 193670 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas M. Walsh" <mordechi@tiac.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Toolkraft Lathe
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:37:04 -0800
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An uncle just gave me a Toolkraft bench lathe 36" o/c.  The
manufacturers plate says that the company was out of Chicopee
Massachusetts.  I can't find any address or phone numbers listed.  The
machine is heavy cast iron and my uncle estimates that it was
manufactured in the early 60's.

I will need parts to get it up and running and was wondering if anyone
in this newsgroup had information on the manufacturer or current owner
of the rights so I can locate parts, etc. or if anyone knows of
universal parts that would fit the unit or could be adapted.

This is one of those gifts that could be a blessing or a curse but I can
use the machine and it will let me go spend foolishly on parts and
accessories without incurring the wrath of the frau.

Thanks in advance.  You can either post answers or e-mail me directly.


Tom Walsh
mordechi@tiac.net


From mfrazier@rmi.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:07 EST 1997
Article: 193671 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Frazier <mfrazier@rmi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm and the word "LITTLE"
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:10:23 -0700
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Tom Gauldin wrote:

> One thing about the show that actually DOES bug me is Norm's continual use of
> the word LITTLE. 
 
> Norm, how about coming down here to some warm breezes and sunny skies for a
> while, so that we can work a tad on your vocabulary?

I wonder what Freud (the doctor, not the tool maker) would have
to say about your problem with the word LITTLE? 

:-)


From mfrazier@rmi.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:07 EST 1997
Article: 193672 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Frazier <mfrazier@rmi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawdust ideas
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:13:00 -0700
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I keep a small bag of it in the garage to throw under
the area where I'm changing the oil on the car/truck. 
If any spills, it gets absorbed before reaching the 
cement. Then I sweep up afterwards.


From rick.mcneal@Sun.COM Wed Apr  2 12:11:09 EST 1997
Article: 193673 of rec.woodworking
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From: RICHARD MCNEAL <rick.mcneal@Sun.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router table plans
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:25:19 -0700
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regarding the theory that the suppliers don't want you to build things
like the router table because it's cheaper to make yourself. that
argument doesn't wash here because of the price of wood (Colorado).
it would have been cheaper for me to buy a router table than make
the one from norm's show. of course, not nearly as enjoyable.

rick


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:11:09 EST 1997
Article: 193674 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: 31 Mar 1997 19:13:59 GMT
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In article <5hp1vt$q4c@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>, jep@physics.purdue.edu says...
>
>As far as expensive oak furniture being held together by hot melt,
>well, I'm still giggling over that one...
>

Just as a point of clarification, the most recent discussion of
hot melt glues revolved around *glue stick guns*, rather than
traditional hot hide glue, which we all know has some excellent
properties and applications in joinery.  But trying to get those
kinds of properties out of a stick-fed glue gun are pretty hopeless
without some pretty amazing setup and clamping arrangements.

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From craig1708@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:10 EST 1997
Article: 193675 of rec.woodworking
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From: craig1708@aol.com (Craig1708)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: 31 Mar 1997 23:46:45 GMT
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I have tried all concepts of the placement of the weight and found that
the cars are more likey to jump the track with ALL of the weight in the
rear (especially if the track has bumps between segments). I like the idea
of putting it in the center of the car. 
The ones that win the "looks" catagory usually have a heavy-bodied finish
that looks like baked enamel.



**************************************************************************
Craig Deller
The Deller Conservation Group Ltd
Geneva, Illinois
USA
craig1708@aol.com                "Conservators make it last longer"
http://home.aol.com/DELLERCON
***************************************************************************


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:11:11 EST 1997
Article: 193676 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: 31 Mar 1997 19:21:14 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5hoqhd$9d4$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>, whylandj@kodak.com says...
>
>I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen 
>cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is to 
>leave them natural with no stain.  How will this look (or is it recommended to 
>at least apply a light stain to help bring out the grain)?

Cherry is beautiful without any stain at all -- in fact, I think it
looks much better when finished without a stain.  Any clear
finish will bring out the grain -- some better than others, of course.

Try wetting it down with mineral spirits just to see what the grain
and color will look like (it will be considerably darker than it is
now, even with only clear finish applied...).   If you want to prevent
the cherry from darkening further, which it will do quickly if left to its
own devices, you need to protect it from UV light.  Check Dejanews
for recent discussions about the topic in this NG.

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From rodb@microsoft.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:12 EST 1997
Article: 193677 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Rod Bray" <rodb@microsoft.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood question (Maple)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 23:54:37 GMT
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Hello,
Yesterday in the Seattle area we had a major windstorm come through.  Lot's
of downed and damaged trees.  One of those trees is a large maple tree I
have on my property.  This tree is approx. 5 feet across at the base and
close to fifty feet tall.  It is starting to split about half way up and I
am worried it will hit my house if I don't take it down soon.  The
questions I have are:

What type of Maple tree do you think this is?  Is it hard or soft Maple? 
It is growing in the Seattle area.
I was thinking of using this for lumber if the wood is not rotten.  Does
anyone know of a sawmill in the Greater Seattle area that I can take the
logs to and have them cut into rough lumber?  It would be a shame to cut
this tree into firewood.
I do not have a kiln to dry this wood, nor do I see myself spending the
money for one.  I have a dry and warm garage, will this be adequate to dry
the wood?  Should I find a sawmill with a kiln and have them dry it also?  
Is it worth my time and expense to turn this into lumber?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

-Rod



From brad@capella.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:13 EST 1997
Article: 193678 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brad Erickson <brad@capella.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Any Mobile Base Recommendations for Cabinet Saw???
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:46:32 -0800
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I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" Fence.  Need a mobile base.
Someone recommended Vega?? Does anyone have comments or suggestions??
Thanks,
Brad
-- 

   ***CAPELLA NETWORKING - WEST***		    
   http://capella.sj.ca.us	   Phone:    800-649-7928            
   Email: brad:capella.com	   Fax:      408-358-8710
   Worldwide distributor of:  3Com, Adtran, Ascend, American
   Power, Assurnet, Cisco, Compatible, Computone, Kentrox,
   Livingston, Microcom, PacificBell, Shiva, U.S. Robotics


From ernfisch@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:14 EST 1997
Article: 193679 of rec.woodworking
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From: ernfisch@primenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS-Aligner Jr./Hartville Tool
Date: 31 Mar 1997 17:01:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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In <333FC388.71B6@ix.netcom.com>, funhog@ix.netcom.com writes:
>I noticed that someone bought a TS-jr from Hartville last month.  I have 
>had one on backorder for 2 months, what gives?  I am beginning to wonder 
>about Hartville Tool.  I bought the TS-Jr on a mystery discount where I 
>recieved an extra %15 off.  Could this be too low a price and they want 
>to wait me out.  I ordered it in mid Feb they said they were BO'd they 
>thought it would ship in one week.  About two weeks later I got a card in 
>the mail saying it would ship on March 20.  On March 20 I got another 
>card that said they would ship on April 30.  How long should I hold out?
>

I did the same thing, mystery discount and all.  Then I got the same card you did.
Then my aligner arrived two or three weeks ago.  The price is not the problem
IMO.  Probably just slow delivery from ejb.  Hold out.  This thing is really worth it.

ernie fisch



From JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:15 EST 1997
Article: 193680 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jack Juhola <JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:03:18 -0800
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I have to agree with the other posts . . . oil is the way to go to bring
out the true beauty of cherry.  I just completed a cherry sofa table and
when considering the finish, thought it might need a little more
protection than straight oil (tung or boiled linseed) might offer.  So,
I opted for a combination finish of BLO/Tung oil/Varnish. There have
been several articles in recent issues of WW magazines (see FWW Feb. '97
#122) that discuss similar mixtures, e.g. oil/turpentine/varnish, etc.
and their application. I didn't mix mine myself, but rather opted to buy
Sam Maloof's oil/varnish blend (available from The Woodworker's Store).
Absolutely foolproof to apply -- just wipe it on and wipe it off. The
oils bring out the character of the cherry, plus they thin the varnish,
allowing easy application and a glass-smooth finish without dust specks.
And the varnish provides added moisture protection. 

If you do go this direction, just one note of advice (from experience):
after applying a oil/varnish mixture, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes,
keeping the surface wet, the wipe if off dry . . . really dry. I was
tempted to leave just a bit on the surface to help build the finish more
quickly -- DON'T DO IT!!! If you don't wipe off the excess, you wind up
with a really gooey mess that's too gummy to sand and is generally a
real pain to clean off. Wipe off the excess, let it dry overnight, then
do it again. Three or four coats should do the trick. Good luck!

Jack J.


From cpine522@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:15 EST 1997
Article: 193681 of rec.woodworking
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From: cpine522@aol.com (CPINE522)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cherry finished with Liquid Beeswax?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 00:21:53 GMT
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I have used liquid beeswax on various woods but never on cherry. Anyone
out there used it on cherry? Is it a good finish for cherry as it does not
change color persay just deepens it? Chris


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:11:17 EST 1997
Article: 193682 of rec.woodworking
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From: BigJim <bigjim@ALASKA.NET>
Subject: Re: Woodhaven Sliding Cut-off Box
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At 11:29 PM 3/26/97 -0600, you wrote:
>P. Eric Chi wrote:
>>
>> In article <33375DF4.7FBE@hal-pc.org>, keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org> wrote:
>> >Dennis R. Vogel wrote:
>> >>
>>
>> >I looked at the catalog also.  WAY to expensive!  I made my cut-off box
>> >out of a left piece of 1/2 baltic birch and some paint grade 8/4 maple.
>> >I used 3/8 x 3/4 super slick plastic for the runners (avoids sticking
>> >due to humidity changes).
>>
>> Hi, what is the "super slick plastic"? Where can I get it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Eric.
>>
>> > I use a  wooden screw clamp for the stop.
>> >This box is dead on accurate and total out of pocket cost was about
>> >$20.00.  This left more money for my next toy.  Fine Woodworking had
>> >great article on cutoff boxes about a year ago.
>> >
>> >Buzz
>
>Don't know if superslick plastic is the exact name of the stuff.  I
>think it was something like UMHP?.  It's like a hard teflon.  Jets new
>X-acta fence has it.  I ordered mine from the Woodworkers Store for
>about three bucks a strip.  I'd give you the specifics but SHMBO cleaned
>up (tossed) my pile of catalogs so I have no reference.
>
>Buzz
>
>


It's called UHMW <Ultra-high molecular weight> plastic..
Hope that helps :):)


From raytay@texnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:18 EST 1997
Article: 193683 of rec.woodworking
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WOOD TRADE DATA BASE wrote:
>
> This article is posted from WOOD TRADE DATA BASE http://www.hms.bkc.lv/aek
> *** To Remove:  Please hit reply & type "remove from WTDB" in the subject.
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Our company is specialized in the coating of thin wood panels using Mdf, Mdf
>  painted, fibra or chipboards panels like support.
>  Our product is called NOBILXIL.
>  For coating we use finish, vynil foils or continous low pressure laminate.
>  The back of the panel could be raw, with balancing paper or
>  2 finish foils faces.
>
>  The tickness can change on material used; we produce starting from 2,5 mm.
>  to 10 mm.(but we can produce higher tickness).
>
>  EMPLOYMENT : a vast uses of the NOBILXIL panels is present in the industries
>  that produce SHUTTERS, back of the FURNITURE or KITCHENS. They come used for
>  the manufacture of rears of PICTURES and MIRRORS, COMMERCIAL-ARTISTS,
>  DRAWERS, DOORS or STANDS.
>
>  If you have any interest about our productions, I will be glad to send you
>  more information about dimentions, foils and our samples by TNT-TRACO.
>
> FEDERICO LASTRUCCI f.lastrucci@leonet.it
>  Foreign Office
>  COMECO srl
>  ITALY
>
> *******************************************************************
> WOOD TRADE DATA BASE sent you this message using WorldMerge,
> the fastest and easiest way to send personalized email messages
> to your customers, subscribers, leads or friends.
>
> For more information, visit http://www.coloradosoft.com
> *******************************************************************


From mlewus@planet.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:19 EST 1997
Article: 193684 of rec.woodworking
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From: mlewus@planet.net (Mark Lewus)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help selecting a planer
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:31:26 GMT
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I am looking for a planer for use in my basement shop. I want to use
it to surface rough and resawn lumber rather than buyng it dimensioned
and surfaced from folks like Croffwood Mills. There seem to be a bunch
of machines in the 12" 'portable' category, all in the $300-500 range,
and then another group of 15" machines in the $1200-$1600 range. 

I will be planing fairly narrow stock, maybe 3-9", and prabably
nothing thicker than 8/4 (and not much of that). The planer will
mostly be used to dimension 4/4 lumber to 3/4" and also to dimension
lumber to 1/2" for cabinet panels and drawer stock .  

My question is, beside the obvious difference in max stock width and
power, will the 12" machines produce as clean a surface as the larger
machines? Do the larger machines produce less snipe, or will they
handle thinner stock?

Any suggestions as to brand / model?

Thanks in advance,


Mark Lewus
mlewus@planet.net



From Bob_Bitchen@My_Dick_up_Jo_Mamas_AssHole.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:19 EST 1997
Article: 193685 of rec.woodworking
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MrCynick <mrcynick@vabch.com> wrote:

>BAYCITVIDGRP wrote:
>> 
>>      All this fuss over words appearing on screen that
>>      are not wanted.  Then just hit the "delete" key
>>      and away they go.
>
>The ordinary reader can't delete a newsgroup posting.
> 
>>      Just by the subject line you should be able to
>>     see who is calling at your door?
>
>Many spammers disguise themselves by using false names & reply
>addresses, so that we *don't* know who is knocking until we let them in,
>and we can't report them to appropriate authorities because we don't
>know who or where they really are.
>
>>      why get upset at what is not injuring you?
>
>Spam, and especially mass cross-postings like this one, does injure us. 
>It uses up huge amounts of bandwidth and server space which could be
>carrying legitimate data that somebody actually wants.  It slows down
>the entire internet.  It's irritating.  It wastes our time.  If our
>internet-access time is limited, or charged for by the hour, it costs us
>money.
>
>>      Accept it and then it will go away.
>
>Who's naive now?
>
>
>>      bill conduit
>>      the 'etc' guy
>>      sometimes called the 'arrogant guy"
>
>No surprise there! ; ) 
>
>We can do something about spam.  There needs to be legislation similar
>to that regulating telephone sales, to prohibit spammers from using
>false names & addresses, and to require that they honor requests from
>newsgroups and individuals not to send them any more spam.
>
>
>-- 
>Best wishes,
>
>Jim Crutchfield
>Norfolk, Virginia
>http://vabch.com/mrcynick

Saw on TV Sunday on some internet program that the spam king at www.cyberpromo.com had
 his server hacked into and his site changed and his passwords posted on the internet.

I like it !!!


Bob Bitchen


I heard this rumer that a spammers ISP had there 4 gig hard drive on their mail machine filled up by me.
Don't know if it really happened or not, but I like the idea.

I don't like to grow old waiting for my e-mail to download just to find out its some crap I don't want.


From au945@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Wed Apr  2 12:11:21 EST 1997
Article: 193686 of rec.woodworking
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From: au945@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Charlie Wendell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER
Date: 1 Apr 1997 00:01:41 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193686


"Peter Tennant Woods" (ptwoods@iafrica.com) writes:
> Hello > What is the best make of routers?
> Thanks   Richard Woods
> jarwoods@ iafrica.com
> 
 I'm kinda an older newbie, started with a Sears router ( not any more, no
more Sears stuff for me), bought a Porter Cable 690 after lurking here and
reading comments on routers, liked it so much, I bought a Porter Cable 693
( plunge Router)
 Both can use either 1/2 or 1/4 inch  bits.
 
 Posts on router use/safety as a result of your (Richard Woods) are well worth
remembering.

--
Cheers, Charlie



From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:22 EST 1997
Article: 193687 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 00:09:57 GMT
Organization: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108
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>PSHULLDC@msn.com wrote:
>> 
>> To what extent would you trust a joint joined by biscuits? I want to
>> build a sofa table out of ash and maybe oak. I got a Freud biscuit joiner
>> for Christmas and bought some Queen Anne legs from Builder's Square. 
>> . . . .  I'm thinking I could join the apron and the legs with
>> biscuits. I'm planning on backing up each corner with a diagonal cleat.


In article <33403D95.1972@hnet.net>, chmielewski@hnet.net says...

>In most applications work great. But in this case, mortise and tenon are
>the only way to go. A biscuit won't give you the strength needed to
>support weight.
>Claude

Oh, I don't know about that. For something like a sofa table, the legs carry 
the weight and the apron keeps the top from sagging. With properly made 
corner braces, the biscuits just hold the apron in place while the braces 
keep the assembly in tension. Now a chair is another matter entirely. 

the Woodshop Notebook
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8108



From domini34@wharton.upenn.edu Wed Apr  2 12:11:23 EST 1997
Article: 193688 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dominic Petty <domini34@wharton.upenn.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: trying to track down a book...
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 19:05:44 -0500
Organization: University of Pennsylvania
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Does anyone know where I can obtain a copy of "The Next Step: The
Building of a Professional Home Woodworking Shop," by John R. McPherson?
I'm trying to track down a copy for my brother and neither Amazon.com
nor Borders has it in their inventory.

Thanks for your help.
-- 
Dominic Petty
domini34@wharton.upenn.edu
215.496.9248


From jack@purr.demon.co.uk Wed Apr  2 12:11:24 EST 1997
Article: 193689 of rec.woodworking
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From: jack@purr.demon.co.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.food.historic,alt.folklore.herbs,rec.woodworking
Subject: botanical names needed for food and other economic plants
Followup-To: alt.support.food-allergies
Date: 31 Mar 1997 23:56:26 GMT
Organization: The Fluffiest Flat in Edinburgh
Distribution: world
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I've been building a large list of food plant relationships, intended to
help people with allergies decide what foods (and other plants in their
environment) might be a problem.  There are still some plants I'd like to
list that I don't have a scientific name for (and hence not a botanical
family either).  Maybe somebody here can help with species/genus/family?

- Ferns - the bracken eaten in Japan or the fernroots eaten in New Zealand
- Galingale; the European herb used in mediaeval cooking, not Galangal
  (Alpinia galanga, Alpinia officinarum) or the supposed hallucinogen Maraba
  (Kaempferia galanga)
- Giant Hogweed (nobody eats it; common contact allergen in the UK)
- Ginkgo
- Guanabana (custard apple? guava?)
- Guernsey Babaco (melon? passionfruit?)
- Kizilcik (the redcurrant-like fruit used for juice in Turkey - may well
  just be redcurrant for all I know)
- Paan
- Palillo (Peruvian herb)
- Pontic Azalea (Turkish hallucinogen; dunno the Turkish common name either)
- Puha (same as New Zealand Spinach?)
- Palisander/Rosewood (the highly allergenic stuff they make musical
  instruments out of)
- Tinda (same as Chayote?)
- Tragacanth

The list is reachable via http://www.purr.demon.co.uk/Food/foodindex.html .
It's got every food plant I've ever heard of.  If I've left ANYTHING out
that was ever used as food anywhere at any period, I want to know about it.

I haven't mentioned this on rec.woodworking before; if there are any other
woods that are particular allergic hazards I'd like to know - rosewood is
so bad that some suppliers offer a money-back offer to people who develop
skin rashes from recorders (I've got no problem with mine - touch wood)
and I know of makers who have had to give up working with it for health
reasons.  Book, internet or journal references to toxic and allergic hazards
>from  woodworking would be welcome.  So far I have very little information
about woods in the list, I really don't know much about that side of the
problem yet.

Doesn't anybody eat mosses or liverworts?

Followups by email or to alt.support.food-allergies, please.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Campin   2 Haddington Place, Edinburgh EH7 4AE, Scotland   0131 556 5272
http://www.purr.demon.co.uk/purrhome.html - includes food allergy/intolerance
resources, McCarrison Society pages, & freeware logic fonts for the Macintosh


From gfmiller@bellatlantic.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:25 EST 1997
Article: 193690 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tezcat!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!world1.bellatlantic.net!news
From: George Miller <gfmiller@bellatlantic.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Toxic Pressure treated wood.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:02:55 -0500
Organization: Bell Atlantic Internet Solutions
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To: Database Coder <dbcoder@juno.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193690

Database Coder wrote:
> 
> I have used the green pressure treated wood around my garden quite a bit. I
> recently purchased two 16 foot 4x6's that were pressure treated, but these
> were BLACK not green. I was told later that they contain Arsenic! Yow
> shouldn't I have told this at the time of purchase? The green pressure
> treated has some form of copper in it doesn't it? Should I get the green
> stuff away from my vegetable plants?  I read in the gardening news group
> that pressure treated can be used for raised planter boxes because the
> copper doesn't leach out. The Black would has a bluish green crystal type
> material oozing from it here and there.
> --
> somebody@inow.com
> www2.inow.com/~somebody
Standard "treated" lumber, the green stuff, is referred to as CCA by the
wood treating industry. CCA are the initials for: Copper,Chrome
(chromium or chromate I'm not sure which) and Arsenic.


From norval@vs1.invsn.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:26 EST 1997
Article: 193691 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: norval@vs1.invsn.com (Norval Joe Caldwell)
Subject: Kiln Dried Aromatic Ceder
Message-ID: <31e7cd$152b36.321@news.compuvar.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 05:45:47 GMT
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Does anyone know of a soarse (that word sure doesn't look right) for
kiln dried aromatic ceder in peices big enough to carve?  At least  2"
by 2".  I have been carving the ceder that they use for pencils: i
read in one book that  the 'stinky ceder' made for nice fugurines.

Thanks, 
Norval.




From genpast@somtel.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:27 EST 1997
Article: 193692 of rec.woodworking
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From: "*Abert, S." <genpast@somtel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help with Stain
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 19:48:41 -0800
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Question for anyone who might have a clue.  Am playing around with making 
my own paint (milk paint, egg yolk based paint, etc., and using my own 
pigments for color).  Am also attempting to incorporate oil based 
(layers) of stain for an antique look.  Some of the stain is absorbed 
into the "paint" but some more-or-less sits on top (but at this stage 
looks very good).  Will the stain ever completely dry????  When I've 
attempted to put a coat of varnish over the top, the stains seems to 
"melt" and blend into the varnish and the look is gone.  Is what I'm 
attepting to do impossible?  Is there anything that will stablize the 
stain?  Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sharon Albert - genpast@somtel.com


From mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:28 EST 1997
Article: 193693 of rec.woodworking
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From: mort_tenon@geocities.nospam.com (Mort Tenon)
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Subject: Re: I WANT OFF!!!
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In article <970329153651_807324894@emout09.mail.aol.com>, MichaelB44@AOL.COM 
says...
>
>I want off this list. What do I do?
>thankyou

In general, if you're getting this news feed from a listserve (I think 
indiana.edu is still carrying rec.woodworking) you send the message 
UNSUBSCRIBE to the listserve, not the list itself. 

AOL folks have had a problem getting off of lists because AOL rotates the 
mail server that services your outgoing messages and listserves need an 
exact match on the e-mail address to process a command. If you can find the 
name of the list administrator, you may have better luck dropping your 
subscription with a personal request.



From bradsm@idirect.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:29 EST 1997
Article: 193694 of rec.woodworking
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From: bradsm@idirect.com (brad smith)
Subject: Splitting wood & wedges???
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I want to make axe and hammer handles, I want to get the wood myself and
make it from scratch. What I need is information on how to properly
split the wood into sections.
A friend of mine tells me that his grandfather use to do this with a
blunt hatchet and wedges, anyone know about this method? Also I want to
use wooden wedges for my handles, what would be the best wood for this?
any tips on how to make sure the wedges dont come out and a nice tight
fit?

Thanks,
             brad.



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:30 EST 1997
Article: 193695 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:34:11 -0500
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:

> Cherry looks by far the best with a plain oil finish.  Legislators are
> currently considering a bill sponsored by O'Deen and myself to outlaw staining
> cherry.
> 
> Stain does NOT 'bring out the grain' - it only hides the natural color.  BTW,
> it's called 'figure'.
 
"Cherry looks best . . ." What a canard! Natural, unstained cherry has
its place, as does stained cherry as does painted cherry. It depends on
the tastes of the designor. The notion that the wood cannot be
beautified and that coloring it is somehow blasphemous is as silly as
you get.

Let us take it one or two steps further: nevermind coloring the wood. If
you mill and machine the wood and change its natural state, or if you
slice the trunk of the tree, or if you do even cut down the tree you
have commited an atrocity (what George Washington did). Silly!

Staining cherry is not tar and feathering the wood (and what if THAT is
how I like my cherry?). Stained vs. unstained cherry are apples and
oranges, if you know what I mean. 

I just took a pair of cherry doors and toned them darker. When one
speaks of "hiding" in the world of finishing, one is referring to a
tendancy to "paint out" or opacify a wood by the application of so much
of a pigmented stain, that it almosts looks as though you painted the
wood (the difference between a stain and a paint is the ability for the
stain to be translucent and for the paint to be opaque).

The figure of the wood is its grain pattern. Since stains color the
grain differently than they color the "meat" of the wood (I do not know
the biological terminology, so you will have to bear with my vulgarisms
here), they can enhance the figure, i.e., "bring out the grain". Too
much of the wrong kind, and the finish starts to look muddy. That is
hiding. 

And, hiding has its place. In 1986 when the prices of cherry
skyrocketed, Sumter Cabinet Company made the decision not to introduce
"selected solids" (a/k/a maple, alder, tulipwood or birch) into ther
all-cherry casegoods. The only way to keep production costs in check and
still sell furniture with a consistent coloring was to apply the stain
dark enough and opaque enough so that the finish was muddied, but not so
"hidden" or opaque that you still could not distinguish the beautiful
wood as cherry. (They make Queen Anne 18th Century genre suites, that
TYPICALLY are dark maroonish browns.) This was their method of buying
the lumber that they could afford from different mills and lumber yards,
and this is how they "equalized" the woods so that they could produce
furniture that had some consistency to it. To me, that spells integrity
(since, also with the difficulties of obtaining cabinet grade wood for
their all solid-wood construction, production slowed and shipping times
were as long as one year until supplies and prices stabilized. They were
not willing to change woods, even if it meant a reduction in business!)

When it comes to finishing woods, there are so many variables involved
that to be dogmatic in tastes, especially on the phoney issue of
staining this wood, leaving that wood unstained, or what type of finish
to build on top of the wood and what sheen, etc., that is the real
atrocity. And, to compund this doctrinaire foolishness by leading others
astray without a caveat that such an aesthetic is your own humble
opinion, that is truely aggregious.

Personally, I like formica, but only if it is put on a particle board
substrate cut from old-growth trees. Let the stupid owls find some
different spots in other trees.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
 Daniel

    / `-' )        ,,,
   | IU U||||||||[:::]
    \_.-.(         '''


From bpugsley@MICRON.NET Wed Apr  2 12:11:31 EST 1997
Article: 193696 of rec.woodworking
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FWIW, I recently purchased a 14" Delta Band saw from Home Depot,
who does not have the Rebate coupons available.  I contacted
Delta, they sent me one, I completed it, attached proof of
purchase returned it and in about three week had my rebate in hand.


Regards
Ben
mailto:bpugsley@micron.net
http://netnow.micron.net/~bpugsley


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:11:32 EST 1997
Article: 193697 of rec.woodworking
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At 01:16 AM 3/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Bill:
>        I've got one and for $400.00 it's a helluva machine.  That's
>what I paid for mine with a gang rip attachment in addition to the
>planer and a 3 HP single phase motor with a magnetic starter.
>        The company is still in business and still supports these older
>machines.  Overall, it's a better buy than the DELTA "table top" planer
>and much more akin to the ~$800.00 JET model.
>        Best of luck!
>        Matt
>
>

If it's a true 3hp motor, it's about *twice* the power the 12" delta has..
and I own one! :)   Also, it's very doubtful it's set up for 120 too..
wouldn't run on a 20 amp circuit anyways.. :):)


From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:33 EST 1997
Article: 193698 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help with Stain
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:55:41 -0500
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*Abert, S. <genpast@somtel.com wrote:
> 
> Question for anyone who might have a clue.  Am playing around with making
> my own paint (milk paint, egg yolk based paint, etc., and using my own
> pigments for color).  Am also attempting to incorporate oil based
> (layers) of stain for an antique look.  Some of the stain is absorbed
> into the "paint" but some more-or-less sits on top (but at this stage
> looks very good).  Will the stain ever completely dry????  When I've
> attempted to put a coat of varnish over the top, the stains seems to
> "melt" and blend into the varnish and the look is gone.  Is what I'm
> attepting to do impossible?  Is there anything that will stablize the
> stain?  Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> Sharon Albert - genpast@somtel.com

Use a washcoat of shellac  over your stain. The shellac asks as a
barrier coat between your stain and your varnish. Appearantly, the
binder in your stain keeps getting activated by the varnish. The barrier
coat would prevent this.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
 Daniel

    / `-' )        ,,,
   | IU U||||||||[:::]
    \_.-.(         '''


From luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca Wed Apr  2 12:11:34 EST 1997
Article: 193699 of rec.woodworking
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From: luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca (Luigi Zanasi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Toxic Pressure treated wood.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:24:20 GMT
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"Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com> wrote:

>I have used the green pressure treated wood around my garden quite a bit. I
>recently purchased two 16 foot 4x6's that were pressure treated, but these
>were BLACK not green. I was told later that they contain Arsenic! Yow
>shouldn't I have told this at the time of purchase? The green pressure
>treated has some form of copper in it doesn't it? 

All the pressure treated stuff contains arsenic. The green stuff uses
CCA (Copper Chromium Arsenate) as the preservative.

>Should I get the green stuff away from my vegetable plants?  
YES
>I read in the gardening news group
>that pressure treated can be used for raised planter boxes because the
>copper doesn't leach out. The Black would has a bluish green crystal type
>material oozing from it here and there.
>-- 
I don't use ANY kind of treated lumber anywhere near my vegetables. I
don't care if they say it doesn't leach. It can still chip off and
will eventually decompose (only slower than regular wood). 20 years
rather than 10.

Luigi


From jonno@valley.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:34 EST 1997
Article: 193700 of rec.woodworking
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From: jonno@valley.net (John_North)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rodale's "Router Magic"
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:54:02 GMT
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On 28 Mar 1997 18:41:07 GMT, dvogel@mthost2.mt.lucent.com (Dennis R.
Vogel) wrote:


>>>Anyone have the Rodale "Router Magic" book by Bill Hylton?

I just bought it from a mail order remaindered books dealer for
roughly $20. It looks quite good, though I haven't yet built any of
the jigs or attachments.




From luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca Wed Apr  2 12:11:35 EST 1997
Article: 193701 of rec.woodworking
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From: luiginospam@yknet.yk.ca (Luigi Zanasi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Span lengths
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:16:28 GMT
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"James W. Baker" <james.w.baker@lmco.com> wrote:

>Steve Rimar wrote:
>> 
>> What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
>> Thanks for all replies.
>> 
>> 
>> STEVE RIMAR
>
>Your request is too open ended.  What's the application and/or required
>live and dead load ratings?  What O.C. spacing are you considering? 
>What's the sheathing or decking size/thickness that will be applied? 
>What wood are you planning on using?

James forgot: "What grade of wood are you planning on using?" ;-) Same
application, load rating, spacing and wood species will have different
maximum spans depending on the grade of the wood.

>Since there are a lot of options your best bet is to check out a
>carpentry/framing book from the library so you weigh weigh the
>advantages of the different methods.




From user@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:37 EST 1997
Article: 193702 of rec.woodworking
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From: user@sprynet.com (colbyt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fine dust filter location?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 01:52:53 GMT
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damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:

>those of you who have bought or built a filtration system, is it best to
>blow the exhaust into the middle of the room (I fear blowing previously
>settled dust around) or do you blow from the middle to an outer edge?

My system is home made and just in the testing stage but here are my
experiences.  From the middle to an outer edge seems to work for me.

The shop is a rectangle.  My TS is located about half way along  one
of the long sides.  I mounted the filter system hanging down from the
ceiling and about four foot  from the saw's infeed side with the
intake side towards the saw.  I wanted to blow any pass throught dust
away from the entry door.  I do not as of yet have a dust collector.
I actually had a dark stained piece of wood about six feet from the
saw's outfeed position the other nite when I ripped a couple of
boards.  I got no fine dust collection on that board.  It seems to be
working.

colbyt
user@sprynet.com 




From smits@frontiernet.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:38 EST 1997
Article: 193703 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dave Smits" <smits@frontiernet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Northern White Cedar
Date: 1 Apr 1997 02:21:39 GMT
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Planes well, won't hurt your equipment, but it will not repel moths etc.
like aromatic cedar and it may be more expensive.

bcompton <bcompton@news.megalink.net> wrote in article
<01bc3d59$10131140$603cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net>...
> Has anyone had experience with using Northern white cedar (Thuja
> occidentalis).  Does it mill well?  I am considering using it to line a
> closet if it can be planed smooth.  Any information would be appreciated.
> 
> Bill Compton
> 
> 
> 


From jcorcora@fgi.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:39 EST 1997
Article: 193704 of rec.woodworking
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From: jcorcora@fgi.net (John Corcoran)
Subject: sears contractors TS fence
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I have had a sears 3 HP belt driven Table Saw for years and recently 
upgraded the worthless fence it came with to their contractors fence.  I 
still have some problems with trusting its parallelism" to the blade.  
Anyone out there had the same problem?




From crjo.moore@MCI2000.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:39 EST 1997
Article: 193705 of rec.woodworking
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From: "crjo.moore" <crjo.moore@MCI2000.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for baby furniture plans
Date: 1 Apr 1997 02:33:25 GMT
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Looking for a good source for baby furniture plans.


From chriso@xi.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:41 EST 1997
Article: 193706 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chris Oggerino <chriso@xi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any Mobile Base Recommendations for Cabinet Saw???
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:58:43 -0800
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Jet makes one. But it costs $99.00 and I haven't found it in stock
anywhere. You might try their web page.

I am about to try the Delta Universal Mobile Base. It runs about $59.00
and should work.


From chrish5064@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:42 EST 1997
Article: 193707 of rec.woodworking
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From: chrish5064@aol.com (ChrisH5064)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Crown Molding on Table Saw
Date: 1 Apr 1997 02:52:48 GMT
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I would also like information on this topic.   Please e-mail me.

Chris



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Article: 193708 of rec.woodworking
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Bob_Bitchen@My_Dick_up_Jo_Mamas_AssHole.net (Bob Bitchen) wrote:

 
> Saw on TV Sunday on some internet program that the spam king at www.cyberpromo.com had
>  his server hacked into and his site changed and his passwords posted on the internet.
>
> I heard this rumer that a spammers ISP had there 4 gig hard drive on their mail machine filled up by me.
> Don't know if it really happened or not, but I like the idea.
> 
> I don't like to grow old waiting for my e-mail to download just to find out its some crap I don't want.

I don't like to wait for my e-mail to download either, but I dislike it less than 
some asshole causing my mail bounced because he/she filled up my ISP's mail queue.
Now you're not messing with the spammer, you're messing with me.

Most ISP's don't support on-going spam originating from their site.  So remember that
the next time you start trying to fill a 4 gig drive.





From drhoades@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:44 EST 1997
Article: 193709 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David L. Rhoades" <drhoades@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help on evaluating old Unisaw
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:06:13 -0600
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I have toyed with simple woodworking for years, and am interested in
buying a table saw.  I am trying to follow the advice of "buy the best
and only cry once" (someone's motto out there), but also getting
excellent value.  I think I have found a good deal on a very old
Unisaw.  It is currently owned by a co-worker's dad who owns another
Unisaw and a Powermatic 66, and is clearly somewhat of a fanatic about
his tools.  I have not yet seen the saw (have to drive 2 hrs to do
so-plan to next Monday PM), but he describes it as a 40-50 year old
Delta (doesn't know for sure because serial # plate is missing,
cast-iron base with motor cover, standard-make fence (runs along dual
rails) with extension rails and legs.  He has put a new Delta 3 HP
single phase motor on (still has the 3-phase motor) and replaced the
arbor.  He thinks the table needs to be ground and polished to make it
look nice, but is not dented, etc.  The motor cover doesn't exactly fit
with the new motor (new motor is 2" longer than old one).  Price is $700
- well below market as far as I can tell ($1100 seems to be the going
price here, but that may be with Unifence).  My wife worries about the
age, but I think that may actually be a plus.

With the new motor and arbor I'm not sure what else to check.  If you
could please e-mail, as well as post, it would make life a lot simpler
for me and my slow modem.  Thanks.  
-- 
#################################################################
#       David L. Rhoades             drhoades@erols.com         #
#################################################################


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:45 EST 1997
Article: 193710 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:04:21 GMT
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Sorry this is vague, but perhaps someone can fill in the details. Within
the last couple of years one of the major woodworking mags. printed a
article on the relative strength of biscuit, dowel and mortice joints.  


From QYLM60A@prodigy.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:46 EST 1997
Article: 193711 of rec.woodworking
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From: QYLM60A@prodigy.com (Joseph Young)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grizzly Shaper
Date: 1 Apr 1997 02:55:22 GMT
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Anyone with experience with one of these?  Am considering one.Appreciate 
anyone who has used one to give opinion.



From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:47 EST 1997
Article: 193712 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: checking for square?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:04:34 GMT
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Mark:

Lot's of thoughts, but here are a few:

1). Try an inside measurement. I use my lufkin folding rule, but just about
anything will do. Lee Vally sells fancy brass knobs to make one - if you're
a tool junkie like me. Which brings me to...

2). The play on an end of a tape measure is supposed to allow you to make
accurate inside & outside measurements. How well this works in actual
practice is subject to debate. Which brings me to...

3). The actual measurement in say inches is irrelavant, what matters is
that whatever it is - it's the same. So slop or no slop as long as it's the
_same_.

4). Use a third (or fifth) clamp diagonally across the carcase to bring it
to square.

5). Use a known square part (like the back) to bring the carcase into
square.

6). Use a flat (really flat) and level surface during assembly.

7). Remember that when you're checking square on one end of the case that
it doesn't mean that the opposite end is sitting square.



From rl7329@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:48 EST 1997
Article: 193713 of rec.woodworking
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From: rl7329@m7.sprynet.com (Ron Lane)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:00:08 GMT
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For the last couple of years, our company has sponsored a Pinewood
Derby race and called it a 'team-building' exercise. This lets all of
those frustrated dads build the cars they actually wanted without
guilt.


foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye) wrote:

> These tips are perfectl;y legal, and have
>been done to my sons car, and he placed 1st 2 years in a row....I

Our rules specifically stated that the original 'axles' be used
(actually the nails included with the kit), so these mods would not
have been legal. Closely check your local rules.

>substituted SS rivets for the supplied axles, and polished them where
>the wheel contacts them...a true round hole is a must, as well as
>having an axle (button head SS rivet) that fits the wheels axle hole
>without to much slop, but rotates very free *without* any sideplay or
>wobble.  

Not exactly following you here. Are you referring to rivets as found
on airplanes or the pop-rivet type tools? where can you get these
things?


Ron Lane
RL7329@sprynet.com
Central NJ, USA



From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:49 EST 1997
Article: 193714 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HVLP using Latex for woodworking
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:10:51 GMT
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Tony Vickers <tony.vickers@sdrc.com> wrote:

>I have built an entertainment center out of birch plywood. I am going to
>paint it to match the rest of the trim in our house. The question arises
>as to what material to use for paint. I want to use an HVLP system to
>get a quality finish, and have bought a high quality latex paint. A few
>articles I have recently read have conflicting negative reports on using
>latex paint with an HVLP system. Does anyone have any experience or
>suggestions on this issue. Should I just break down and use an alkyd
>paint? 

>Tony Vickers
>tony.vickers@sdrc.com

Having built a lot of painted furniture and cabinetry, I would
recommend going with the oil base rather than latex for ease of
application, flow-out properties and durability of final finish.  I
usually use a conditioner such as Penetrol to improve spray
characteristics.  Hope this helps.

Tim




From lfrazier@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:50 EST 1997
Article: 193715 of rec.woodworking
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From: Larry <lfrazier@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Veneer and hot melt adhesive
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:18:46 -0500
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I am interested in veneering some MDF cabinets using thermosetting hot
melt film.  Does anyone know where to buy it?  Anyone have any
experiance (good or bad) with this method?  Any words of wisdom or
advice?  

Also, I am interested in a good source of Mahogony veneer.  I need
pieces that are at least 30 X 44 inches each. I am trying to achieve the
appearance of 1940's veneered work.

Please e-mail reply in addition to posting.

Larry


From stamp@zombie.ncsc.mil Wed Apr  2 12:11:51 EST 1997
Article: 193716 of rec.woodworking
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From: stamp@zombie.ncsc.mil (Mark Stamp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: sander advice needed
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:18:44 -0500
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Is there such a thing as a general purpose sander? I need something
to do finishing work, but would also like to be able to use it
for slightly more heavy duty things. Like everyone else,
I'm on a budget. Any suggestions appreciated!

Mark Stamp

-- 
I am not a donkey and I don't have a field. --- Max Weber


From gbrass@nctc.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:52 EST 1997
Article: 193717 of rec.woodworking
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From: "greg brass" <gbrass@nctc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cordless nailing tool
Date: 31 Mar 1997 22:47:35 GMT
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Jeff Kim <tdcraft@www.kotis.net> wrote in article
<3340909C.3693@www.kotis.net>...
> Is there a cordless (rechargeable) tool that can strike nails on wood
> without electric power.
> 
> Need information.  
> 
> Please fax 82-2-555-5859 or email tdcraft@kotis.net
> 
> Jeff
> 


From gbrass@nctc.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:52 EST 1997
Article: 193718 of rec.woodworking
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From: "greg brass" <gbrass@nctc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cordless nailing tool
Date: 31 Mar 1997 22:48:29 GMT
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try a hammer

Jeff Kim <tdcraft@www.kotis.net> wrote in article
<3340909C.3693@www.kotis.net>...
> Is there a cordless (rechargeable) tool that can strike nails on wood
> without electric power.
> 
> Need information.  
> 
> Please fax 82-2-555-5859 or email tdcraft@kotis.net
> 
> Jeff
> 


From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:53 EST 1997
Article: 193719 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood question (Maple)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:28:01 GMT
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"Rod Bray" <rodb@microsoft.com> wrote:

>Hello,
>Yesterday in the Seattle area we had a major windstorm come through.  Lot's
>of downed and damaged trees.  One of those trees is a large maple tree I
>have on my property.  This tree is approx. 5 feet across at the base and
>close to fifty feet tall.  It is starting to split about half way up and I
>am worried it will hit my house if I don't take it down soon.  The
>questions I have are:

>What type of Maple tree do you think this is?  Is it hard or soft Maple? 
>It is growing in the Seattle area.
>I was thinking of using this for lumber if the wood is not rotten.  Does
>anyone know of a sawmill in the Greater Seattle area that I can take the
>logs to and have them cut into rough lumber?  It would be a shame to cut
>this tree into firewood.
>I do not have a kiln to dry this wood, nor do I see myself spending the
>money for one.  I have a dry and warm garage, will this be adequate to dry
>the wood?  Should I find a sawmill with a kiln and have them dry it also?  
>Is it worth my time and expense to turn this into lumber?

>Any help would be greatly appreciated,

>-Rod

Rod,
   I'm in the Seattle area also, that was a pretty good blow, eh?
I've got a line of mature paper birches at the rear of my yard I'm
eyeing cautiously... :)  Your maple tree would be a western maple, so
close in appearance to alder that you have to look close to
distinguish the difference.  The small black streaks apparent in alder
will be missing in western maple, otherwise looks pretty much the
same, on average a little heavier per board foot.  Working properties
are very similar.  I don't have any recommendations for milling, phone
book would be my first thought.  As far as whether it's worth it,
compare the per-board-foot milling price to the per-board-foot retail
price....Crosscut Hardwoods in Seattle can quote current prices.  The
coolest thing about an oppurtunity like this is the chance to do
something different...like dry a large chunk of root cluster, real
wild grain possibilities there...or let some of it stay moist for a
while and let it spalt...cut a thick slab for a bench...dry some large
branches and incorporate the natural shapes into a piece of
furniture...etc.   Yes, you can air dry the wood, end grain will need
to be sealed...the mill should be able to advise you on this.  My
folks lost a cherry tree years ago and I have some prime pieces
(including an awesome burl) stashed away....:)

Tim




From bwidget@atlanta.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:54 EST 1997
Article: 193720 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Hajo Smulders" <bwidget@atlanta.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Problem; need help
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:38:26 GMT
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Hi,

	My wife is trying to use a glue-gun to glue a 'skirt' around a sink.
Basically I need to know if it is possible to use a glue gun to glue fabric
against porcelain. Thank you!

	Hajo

PS: I apoligise for posting here; but this was the closest group related to
home-improvement that I could find. The others dealt with a TV show.

PPS: I obviously do not subscribe to this group so if anyone knows the
answer please reply by e-mail. 

Thank you!


From kdisk@hooked.net Wed Apr  2 12:11:55 EST 1997
Article: 193721 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ken Cochrane <kdisk@hooked.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Tires
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 19:30:17 -0800
Organization: Whole Earth Networks News
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193721

Contact Griz and buy a new set of tires.


From ibdegen2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:55 EST 1997
Article: 193722 of rec.woodworking
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From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: circular saws
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:45:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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On 23 Mar 1997 17:29:51 GMT, jeberlepe@aol.com (JEberlepe) wrote:

>I need to but a new circular.  I'm looking for suggestions.  Don't know
if
>it's worth paying $150 for one when I could buy three $50 for the same
>price.  Comments???

The saying "buy the best and cry once" is certainly true with circular
saws.  I don't know about the saws made today, but in 1970 I purchased a
Rockwell top handle circular saw for myself, and at the request of the
theater I worked at, and against my best judgment, two of the cheapest
Skilsaws I could find.  The Rockwell was used exclusively by me, the Skils
by the others.  The long and short of it is, I still have the Rockwell and
it still works great.  I've used it as a professional theater carpenter
and as a professional home builder.  It works today like it worked when
new (I hope I don't jinx myself).  Oh, BTW, the Skils didn't make it
through the summer.

Also BTW, I think my Rockwell has been reincarnated as a PC model.  The
saws look identical, complete with the thick aluminum soleplate (instead
of the thin stamped kind).  The only difference looks like the name.  As
PC bought out Rockwell's hand tool division, they probably are the same
and I would thoroughly recommend it.

Braun Degenshein


From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:56 EST 1997
Article: 193723 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:44:15 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 33
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Claude Chmielewski <chmielewski@hnet.net> wrote:

>PSHULLDC@msn.com wrote:
>> 
>> To what extent would you trust a joint joined by biscuits? I want to
>> build a sofa table out of ash and maybe oak. I got a Freud biscuit joiner
>> for Christmas and bought some Queen Anne legs from Builder's Square. I
>> don't have a drill press or any other means of easily cutting mortises,
>> so of course I'm thinking I could join the apron and the legs with
>> biscuits. I'm planning on backing up each corner with a diagonal cleat.
>> Good idea? Bad idea? Let me know what you think. Your input is
>> appreciated.
>> 
>> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
>In most applications work great. But in this case, mortise and tenon are
>the only way to go. A biscuit won't give you the strength needed to
>support weight.
>Claude

In my living room is a 36 in. square coffee table of hard maple,
aprons are 1 x 3 in butt-joined with biscuits to the legs.   I used
two #20 biscuits at each end of each apron.  No other reinforcement or
bracing was used.  This table was built partly as a test for this
method of construction.  We've used this table (and I mean used!) for
six years and the joints show no sign weakening.  Kids have crawled on
this thing, we rest our feet against the edge constantly (Pro-Fin is
incredibly durable) and its not unusual to find my 15 year old son or
myself (210 lbs) perched on the edge of it playing guitar.  I think
biscuits will be okay for your sofa table.... :)

Tim



From jerryg@esslink.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:57 EST 1997
Article: 193724 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jerry Glazman <jerryg@esslink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian countertop
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:36:27 -0500
Organization: Non-Metallic Mat'ls Services
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <334082BB.4E16@esslink.com>
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G Potter wrote:
> 
> Have the good fortune to be able to buy enough Corian ( in a color my
> wife likes!) to redo my kitchen counters. The only hitch is that I have
> to make several seams. Is there anyone with knowledge of joining corian
> that would be willing to share the techniques? I would really appreciate
> the help.
> 
> Please e-mail advice to gpotte@ibm.net
> 
> Thank you!

Contact duPont at 1-800-4-CORIAN and ask for the free booklet "How to
work with Corian in the home workshop". It has sections on cutting,
edging, joining etc.

This Old House has shown a number of projects and they join the material
with duPont supplied epoxy kits that are color matched.

Jerry Glazman
jerryg at esslink.com


From tjcross@oakland.edu Wed Apr  2 12:11:58 EST 1997
Article: 193725 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Cross <tjcross@oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any Mobile Base Recommendations?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:52:21 -0800
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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Try:
HTC Products
332 E. Lincoln
Royal Oak, MI 48067
Area code is 810 (will change to 248 in May)

I bought a stand from them for my Jet TS. I know I saw a stand for the 
cabinet saw in their catalog.

Good Luck

Brad Erickson wrote:
> 
> I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" fence. Need a mobile base.
> the Vega looks interesting??  does anyone have Recommendations???
> Thanks,
> Brad
> --
> 
>    ***CAPELLA NETWORKING - WEST***
>    http://capella.sj.ca.us         Phone:    800-649-7928
>    Email: brad:capella.com         Fax:      408-358-8710
>    Worldwide distributor of:  3Com, Adtran, Ascend, American
>    Power, Assurnet, Cisco, Compatible, Computone, Kentrox,
>    Livingston, Microcom, PacificBell, Shiva, U.S. Robotics


From georgii1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:59 EST 1997
Article: 193726 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kids playground seesaw
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:54:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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There's one in Blizzards Wonderful Wooden Toys, Richard Blizzard.

And, I don't have it handy but there's a real cute one in a toy book that
has shapped animal heads on the ends.  

Jolyn


From grphcart@gramercy.ios.com Wed Apr  2 12:11:59 EST 1997
Article: 193727 of rec.woodworking
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From: grphcart@gramercy.ios.com (Ross C. Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for projects on the Web
Date: 1 Apr 1997 03:58:55 GMT
Organization: IDT 
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Sorry if this is sort of a FAQ.  I have only just started reading this
NewsGroup. But is anyone familiar with any web sites that offer project
plans for woodworkers?


From efleblanc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:00 EST 1997
Article: 193728 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Edward LeBlanc" <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:01:22 GMT
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The article you are referring to (I think) was in Fine Woodworking No. 111,
April 1995.  While the article specifically talked about joints for doors,
it would seem to apply to other types of construction also.  The strength
of a double biscuit joint compared favorably with the mortise and tenon
joint.  However, the ultimate recommendation of the article was to use
mortise and tenon joints for maximum durability in consideration of the
mode of failure in the biscuit joint.  BTW, the weakest joint was a lag
bolt into end grain.

Ed

Hodcarry <hodcarry@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970401030400.WAA21511@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Sorry this is vague, but perhaps someone can fill in the details. Within
> the last couple of years one of the major woodworking mags. printed a
> article on the relative strength of biscuit, dowel and mortice joints.  
> 


From rfodden@chass.utoronto.ca Wed Apr  2 12:12:02 EST 1997
Article: 193729 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:01:18 -0600
From: rfodden@chass.utoronto.ca
Subject: mounting wooden typesetters box
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.woodworking
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I have an antique type setter's tray -- shallow wooden box with many
small compartments -- that I want to mount on the wall.  The problem with
my original plan, which was to simply screw it into the wall through the
back panel, is that the back panel is a thin sheet of wood that
is cracking badly.  I don't want it to split any more, and I'd prefer not
to do anything that permanently obscures the back panel since, though I'm
mounting it on a wall for now, it has an old advertisment on the back that
is kind of interesting.  Any ideas on how to hang this as a display case?

Thanks for any advice.

R.F.

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From gwrossi@prysm.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:03 EST 1997
Article: 193730 of rec.woodworking
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From: Gerald Ross <gwrossi@prysm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting wood & wedges???
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:03:27 -0800
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brad smith wrote:
> 
> I want to make axe and hammer handles, I want to get the wood myself and
> make it from scratch. What I need is information on how to properly
> split the wood into sections.
> A friend of mine tells me that his grandfather use to do this with a
> blunt hatchet and wedges, anyone know about this method? Also I want to
> use wooden wedges for my handles, what would be the best wood for this?
> any tips on how to make sure the wedges dont come out and a nice tight
> fit?
> 
> Thanks,
>              brad.

My dad trimmed the part of the handle that fit into the head until it
fit, then he would take the handsaw and saw a kerf into the center of
the long axis.  He used hardwood wedges (probably the same material as
the handle), making them thin, with a very gradual taper.  After driving
the wood wedge into the saw kerf, he sometimes drove in a metal wedge
across the wood wedge.  The metal wedge was store-bought and had ridges
across the flats to reduce the chance of it working out.
He shaped the handles with a draw knife using a piece longer than the
finished handle, then cut it to length last.  This made it easier to
hold  the piece while working on it.
-- 
Gerald Ross   Marshall, TX
==========================================
Anti-Spam Note - For direct email replies, 
delete the ' i ' in the reply address above.


From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:04 EST 1997
Article: 193731 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:07:58 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<You did not have the courtesy to quote even a part of your question, but
I will answer anyway.>>

I don't recall asking you the question.  I am well aware of methylene
chloride, since we are the largest manufacturer of contact adhesives in
the World.  This particular solvent is used in pretty much all
non-flammable contact adhesives, both neoprene and SBR (Kraton), for the
foam fabricating business.  Not only is this solvent used in the finishing
industry, it is also used as a primary ingredient for manufactuing
polyurethane foam.

<<of the dangers we may encounter when we come into
contact with methylene chloride. The least we could do is warn the mice
in the studies that they are at risk>>

Yea, and that is about it.  The risk of this solvent as being a carcinogen
to human beings is very remote.  An independent lab, Zeneca, did a study
on this solvent and pinpointed that labe mice and rats develop cancer when
exposed to high does of methylene chloride, due to the fact that they have
a specific gene which is not found in human beings.

<< especially without benefit of a quotation from such or even a hint in
your query so that an unassuming reader of your post might have the
slightest benefit of
context;>>

I felt no need to insert a quotation.  I wanted to know why this was
posted.  I was not going to quote the whole damned article, and that was
what my question was based upon.

For your information, OSHA pased a statndard on methylene chloride on
January 10 of this year, which lowers the permissible exposure limit (PEL)
>from  500 to 25 parts per million (ppm).  This standard becomes effective
on April 10, 1997.  This standard also establishes a short-term (15 minute
exposure limit, or STEL of 125 ppm.  Due to this standard, you can pretty
much kiss methylene chloride goodbye!

Enough quotations in this for you?

Sticky Fingers - aka Tim


From skip@applogic.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:05 EST 1997
Article: 193732 of rec.woodworking
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From: Skip <skip@applogic.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:14:59 -0500
Organization: Internet Atlanta
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <33408BC3.7010@applogic.com>
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To: Michael John Hide <mikehide@mindspring.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193732

Do you have a number or address for Carlton's?

Skip

Michael John Hide wrote:
> 
> "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
> ;Has anybody recently ordered any type of mahogany veneer from
> Constantines?
> ; The first week of february I placed an order for 50 sq. feet of
> figured
> ;mahogany veneer.  At the time it was backorderded, but they said they
> were
> ;expecting a shipment within 2 weeks and it would be shipped out.  4
> weeks
> ;later I called them and they still had not gotten any.  Not wanting
> to
> ;delay my project any longer, I asked to change the order to regular
> ;mahogany.  "Well........we're out of that, too."  was the response.
> Has
> ;anybody had experiences with Constantines in this type of matter?
> Should I
> ;continue to wait, or is there another place that has good prices AND
> good
> ;service?  thanks
> 
> ;sgrabin@ix.netcom.com
> 
> Back again , try carltons rare woods in atlanta ,he has scads of
> veneer on hand ,word of advice ,Carltons getting on a bit ,but try and
> deal with him rather than Richard.In any account he will talk your ear
> off .
>                                      mjh


From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:06 EST 1997
Article: 193733 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:21:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<f you are questioning the point/reason of my posting regarding
methlyene chloride, I suggest you read it as the answer is contained
therein.  I also intend to post regarding acetone, toulene, methanol,
and other woodworking related materials because I feel it is important
to know what we are using, some of the dangers involved, and how to
neutralize those dangers.  For example, if one had a weak heart,
working with methylene chloride could have very damaging effects as
the carbon dioxide is converted to cabon monoxide in the blood,  just
as working with it or other chemicals could have damaging effects on
an unborn child.>>

All solvents are dangerous.  People want to find out the effects of over
exposure and the proper safety procedures when working with these
solvents, then they should request an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
>from  the manuafacturer whose products contain these solvents.

In fact, D-limonene, which is a natural chemical used in manufacturing
citrus cleaners is also a dangerous chemical.  Natural is not safer
either.  Going to make a posting on this?

As far as the dangers, I am well aware of the dangers, and we supply all
of our customers with MSDS sheets, especially since it is the law.  We are
the laregest manufacturer of contact adhesives in the world, and we use
toluene (the main ingredient in dissolving neoprene in flammable
adhesives), cyclo-hexane, n-hexane, MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), acetone,
methylene chloride, 1,1,1 trichloroethane, trichloroethylene, and V,M, & P
Naptha, just to name a few.  Again, that is why there are MSDS sheets.

<<Allow me to remind you that newsreaders, even the one provided through
AOL, has a reply function which allows quoted text to appear.  It is
considered good manners to post a portion of the text to which you are
replying. >>

Really?? No kidding!  I am well aware of that also.  I wanted to know why
you posted the whole article.  Guess I should have quoted the whole thing.

<<This newsgroup is composed of friendly, literate, helpful people who
freely give their time to help each other excell in their efforts to
work with wood, exchange information, techniques, methods, sources,
and assist in problem solving.>>

I am aware of this newsgroup and the purpose of such.  I have been
answering questions on contact adhesives in this group for years.

<< Nowhere is there room or need for rudeness, abruptness, or over
inflated egos.  I have only been working with wood and finishing since
1969 with pay, and still have a lot to learn. >>

I was not rude, I asked a very specific question.  I have been working
with these solvents for 33 years and I am up to date with them.  If you
want more information on methylene chloride, let me know.  You can just
about kiss this solvent goodbye, due to the recent OSHA standard.

Sticky Fingers - aka Tim


From bigchris@pagesz.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:06 EST 1997
Article: 193734 of rec.woodworking
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From: bigchris@pagesz.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:09:09 -0500
Organization: Pagesz.net
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Steve Swihart wrote:
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
> years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
> charge they take doesn't last very long.
> 
> I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
> time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
> does.  Is this true?
>
Probably not in your case.  Nicad batteries are designed for a finite
number of charge/discharge cycles (I believe typically 500) and yours
are most likely just at end of life.  Batteries used in a drill are
subject to a lot of heating when the drill is loaded heavily and that
accelerates the drying out of the chemicals in the battery.  Once that
happens, nothing you can do externally will help.

> FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
> charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
> they're home tools.
> 
Sounds right to me.  I'd also let them cool down before recharging.  I
have the same Makita batteries (and maybe drill) and I'll be well
satisfied if mine last 5 years!

Chris


From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:07 EST 1997
Article: 193735 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:27:15 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<< The point is, your health and safety.>>

That's right, and all of the health and precautionary information can be
obtained from the manufacturer whose product contains these chemicals, by
requesting an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).  If you work in a plant
using chemicals, an MSDS on every chemical used is to be posted in an
accessible area for workers to read.  This is called the Workers Right to
Know law.

<<Think about it.>>

I don't have to think about it.  I am aware of the consequences of over
exposure to solvents.  That is why we submit and you should request MSDS
sheets on products containing solvents.  

Sticky Fingers - aka Tim


From Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com Wed Apr  2 12:12:08 EST 1997
Article: 193736 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: AOL Users - Look Carefully at AOL's New Pricing Plans
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:37:02 -0700
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AOL is at it again!  (Sorry for this only tangentially related to
woodworking commentary)

Has anyone else noticed this, or was I bleary-eyed working on my wife's
computer the other night?  I was using her AOL, and decided to look at
their section on billing plans.  Here's what I saw:

$4.95 - includes three hours, each additional hour $2.50
$9.95 - includes five hours, each additional hour $2.95.  

Now, why in the world would anyone select the $9.95 plan?  For all cases
the $4.95 plan is cheaper (except for exactly 5 hours, where they are
equal) 

Pardon me for bringing this up in our woodworking forum, but I've
noticed that quite a few participants are AOLers, and thought I'd
mention it.  Now back to my router table.  

Dave Druckerman

Interesting woodworking related note (at least interesting to me):  I
just sold my Hitachi resaw BS this weekend as it wouldn't get enough use
>from  me, needed the cash more than the saw, etc.  I delivered it to a
guy about 30 miles away.  When I got to his house, I saw his shop is a
smallish 2 car garage in a condominium complex.  Oh well, we all work
with what we've got.

He opens the garage, and lo and behold, he has the highest precision
table saw I've ever seen!  A 12" SCMI panel saw with scoring cutter,
sliding table, and an incredibly heavy duty rip fence.  The casting that
connects the arm to the rail looked like it weighed 50 pounds by
itself!   Made the Biesemeyer, Unifence, look like toys.  Casually asked
him how much a saw like that costs, and he said "about $6500"  The guy
had to buy smaller cars to leave enough room for the saw!  Now here is a
guy with a pretty well founded set of priorities IMHO.  Has anyone else
ever run across one of these?  A nice used one in the $2K range would be
nice.  

BTW.  He didn't appear to be one who simply operates on the "money is no
object" principle.  He was working in Rosewood, Paduak, Birdseye Maple,
and other very fine woods making his own veneers, so he simply felt the
work warranted the precision.  This was his third saw, the last one with
a Biesemeyer not providing high enough accuracy (too much deflection, I
guess).


From stkyfingr@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:09 EST 1997
Article: 193737 of rec.woodworking
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From: stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:33:36 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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<<Allow me to remind you that newsreaders, even the one provided through
AOL, has a reply function which allows quoted text to appear. >>

BTW, the Reply to Group button on AOL does not allow or automically
provide quoted text to appear.  It has to be done by copying and pasting.

Sticky Fingers - aka Tim


From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:10 EST 1997
Article: 193738 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Span lengths
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:50:50 -0700
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James W. Baker wrote:
> 
> Steve Rimar wrote:
> >
> > What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
> > Thanks for all replies.
> >

> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> 
> Your request is too open ended.  What's the application and/or required
> live and dead load ratings?  What O.C. spacing are you considering?
> What's the sheathing or decking size/thickness that will be applied?
> What wood are you planning on using?
> 
> Since there are a lot of options your best bet is to check out a
> carpentry/framing book from the library so you weigh weigh the
> advantages of the different methods.

This is good advice.  I would only add that after you've used books to
examine different options, make sure and check your local code before
you get too involved.
-Colin


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:11 EST 1997
Article: 193739 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33409189.6276@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:39:37 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
Reply-To: jay@rpltd.com
Organization: REsource Partners
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193739

> scoundrl@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin) wrote:
> 
>
> 
>Woodworker's Supply is being used to categorize a catalog/store that
>specializes in selling a wide range of tools, supplies and materials for the
>woodworking hobbyist and probably also some professional woodworkers.
> 
>Home Depot is being used to categorize all general purpose hardware stores,
>lumber yards and home improvement stores.
> 
> SNIP SNIP

I have seen all the awful things said about Home Depot on these pages
and I think people are either over-generalizing or expecting too much.

Home Depot makes it possibile for DIYs to access products previously
available only to contractors.  They have convenient hours and locations
to many people.  

Their structual wood has some bad pieces, but so does wood from
anywhere, and at least you can pick through it at HD.  Their hardwood is
expensive, but what do you expect?

They sell Delta, PC, DeWalt and everything else.

If I have a tool question, I come here and DejaNews.  If I go to HD for
tool help, I know from experience which one employee has experience and
knowledge to help.  I don't ask the college student at the cash
register.  

The people in the wood section now know me on-sight.  They are always
helpful.  I cannot get 12" maple burl there.  What do you expect?

If it were not for HD, I would have to travel 2 hours to Highland
Hardware in Atlanta or 90 min to Georgia Hardwoods in Duluth.

Your original question was not specific to HD, but a general call for
opinions on home improvment stores vs mail order stores. 

Price simply varies.  I have bought major tools from HD, mail order, and
speciality woodworking stores.  I keep a list of the tools I want
(someday) and keep checking price.

For example, I got the DeWalt plate joiner recently.  The price in HD
was $10 less than the price in Highland Hardware.  But I saw an add from
a mail order place that was $30 less than HD.  I had to pay S&H, but
there was no sales tax and they included biscuits and glue.  I paid
$206, including shipping.

I also recently bought a table saw.  The HD price was $50 less than any
othet price I saw, after weeks of looking.  If you want the best price,
you must do some legwork.

Be sure to consider sales tax, shipping costs, delivery charges, etc. 
If you get a 300 lb tool from mail order, they will deliver it to your
house (probably).  From HD you pick it up or pay a charge for delivery.

I have not yet bought wood from a mail order location, because I buy
small amounts (the price difference is not important) and I like to see
the wood before I buy it.

I expect to do more projects, which will require trips to hardwood
specialty stores.  Perhaps one of these people selling 1000 bf at
$0.80/bf....

There is one other, important difference between the two.  If you are a
good enough customer to a HD (and they are a good store), after enough
trips and reasonable questions, they will get to know you.  I find that
very valuable and comforting.


From pjrose@servtech.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:11 EST 1997
Article: 193740 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.servtech.com!post.servtech.com!pjrose
From: pjrose@servtech.com (P. Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:26:00 -0500
Organization: Rose Family
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Dear Glueman,
Please note that this is a "recreational" newsgroup. Questions, like the
one posed about hot melt glue are typically asked by the hobbyist/amateur.
Are the so-called "permanent bond" hot melt formulations you refer to
available in sticks that fit in the $9.95 hot-melt glue guns that are used
by most of the readers in this newsgroup (the ones that use hot-melt glue,
that is)?

Also, note that--from a serious woodworker's point of view--pieces that
are classified as  "expensive furniture" are very often *not*
"high-quality furniture". In fact, expensive production furniture is
seldom of very high quality. 

I appreciate the URL for your website, but frankly, I couldn't extract
much useful information from it before giving up in frustration. :-(

BTW--as to "reading good books"--I recently finished reading John Irving's
"Son of the Circus". A great read. The pages/cover were not in good shape,
but the hot melt glue holding this paperback volume together seemed to be
doing a good job ;-)

In article <333F2C30.1FC3@sure.net>, "Dung A. Le" <glueman@sure.net> wrote:

>I've read over and over about comments that hot melt does not provide
>permanent bond and that it is only good for temporary bonds.  Has anyone
>looked at expensive oak furnitures?  How about table tops?  Read any
>good books?  You'll find hot melts holding these things together.  Hot
>melt formula varies a lot and there are so much to choose from.  Hot
>melt moisture-cure like H.B. Fuller's HL-9527 bonds Polypropylene to
>Polypropylene.  If you need more information or have a specific
>question, send me an e-mail.
>
>Regards,
>
>Glueman
>
>http://www.sure.net/~glueman

Phil Rose


From lance@txdirect.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:13 EST 1997
Article: 193741 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dane Lance" <lance@txdirect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Questions, Questions...
Date: 1 Apr 1997 04:55:34 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct, Incorporated
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	Thanks to everyone for their fine suggestions and obvious
experience and knowledge in helping me select tools to start my shop.
Now, I have more questions.....(hee hee hee)...

	WHY, why, why are Craftsman tools so bad??  What specific characteristics
makes them so hated?  I think I have done well with the advice given so far and
my tool selections so far are mostly a mix of Delta and Porter-Cable, however,
I'm looking real hard at a Craftsman table saw.  For some reason, table saws
>from  Delta or other respected makers are either hard to find or way too
expensive for me.  I'm not really interested in mail order and the shipping
costs for Jet or Grizzly equipment.  The Delta table saws that I CAN afford are
little bench-top models.  I looking for a floor model with the heavy cast iron
extensions and decent fences.  The new Craftsman model 29941N "Contractor
Series" 3HP 10" has the features I'm looking for and is priced at $549 (i.e. I
can afford it).  It sure looks like a nice saw.....I'm just curious as to what
makes Craftsman power tools so "crappy".....

More questions....

	What is meant when they say a motor is rated for 1.5HP, but develops 3HP
maximum?  Is it 3HP or is it 1.5HP???

	Is it better to wire your motors for 240V or 120V if you have the choice?

	Is a dust collection system really necessary if I already have a large shop
vac and connect it to the collectors on the machinery?

	What's the best sources for wood?  I understand "Home Depot" wood isn't
exactly the choice of woodworkers.  

		Thanks,

			Dane

lance@txdirect.net



From username@telcomplus.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:13 EST 1997
Article: 193742 of rec.woodworking
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From: "real_name" <username@telcomplus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Purple Heartwood
Date: 1 Apr 1997 00:28:06 GMT
Organization: Brigadoon, Inc.
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Does anyone know of finishes which can be applied on purple heartwood that
will retain the color? The local woodshop here has it for $2.85 a bd. ft.
and I'd like to get some to do some cabinet door faces for my house.  I've
been told that it turns brown with sun, and would like to stop this
process. thanks for any help  paul



From rlove@mail.island.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:14 EST 1997
Article: 193743 of rec.woodworking
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From: rlove@mail.island.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: hazelnut wood
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 04:23:05 GMT
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A friend just told me he has a small log from a tree he cut. Is the
wood any good for woodworking?


From wallyo@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:15 EST 1997
Article: 193744 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: wallyo@ix.netcom.com(Edward O'Grady)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:00:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <01bc3688$04ba4660$a6cdb7c7@steveg> <5h0nvh$3vl@camel1.mindspring.com> <33408BC3.7010@applogic.com>
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In <33408BC3.7010@applogic.com> Skip <skip@applogic.com> writes: 
>
>Do you have a number or address for Carlton's?
>
>Skip
>
>Michael John Hide wrote:
>> 
>> "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ;Has anybody recently ordered any type of mahogany veneer from
>> Constantines?
>> ; The first week of february I placed an order for 50 sq. feet of
>> figured
>> ;mahogany veneer.  At the time it was backorderded, but they said
they
>> were
>> ;expecting a shipment within 2 weeks and it would be shipped out.  4
>> weeks
>> ;later I called them and they still had not gotten any.  Not wanting
>> to
>> ;delay my project any longer, I asked to change the order to regular
>> ;mahogany.  "Well........we're out of that, too."  was the response.
>> Has
>> ;anybody had experiences with Constantines in this type of matter?
>> Should I
>> ;continue to wait, or is there another place that has good prices
AND
>> good
>> ;service?  thanks
>> 
>> ;sgrabin@ix.netcom.com
>> 
>> Back again , try carltons rare woods in atlanta ,he has scads of
>> veneer on hand ,word of advice ,Carltons getting on a bit ,but try
and
>> deal with him rather than Richard.In any account he will talk your
ear
>> off .
>>                                      mjh

Constantine's has some really beautiful wood, I just got some
incredible Zebrawood, 3/4 in. thick and some Mahog., same thickness.
The problem with availability is a very real one...It seems to me,
buying 3/4 inch thick lumber, that they are the only source anywhere
near me and they run out of things...I'm suprised they can't get it
after a month or so...I find them very co-operative.
                       
    Good luck.
                                        wally o



From cring@concentric.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:16 EST 1997
Article: 193745 of rec.woodworking
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From: "C.E.(Chuck)Ring" <cring@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for projects on the Web
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:06:47 -0700
Organization: Madera Encantada
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To: "Ross C. Martin" <grphcart@gramercy.ios.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193745

Ross C. Martin wrote:
> 
> Sorry if this is sort of a FAQ.  I have only just started reading this
> NewsGroup. But is anyone familiar with any web sites that offer project
> plans for woodworkers?
	
Try http://www.theoak.com/gary/
-- 
C.E.(Chuck) Ring
Madera Encantada (Enchanted Wood)
http://theoak.com/chuck/index.html
http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/index.html



From davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:17 EST 1997
Article: 193746 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David B. Goldstein" <davidgoldstein@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS-Aligner Jr./Hartville Tool
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:46:26 -0800
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funhog@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> I noticed that someone bought a TS-jr from Hartville last month.  I have
> had one on backorder for 2 months, what gives?  I am beginning to wonder
> about Hartville Tool.  I bought the TS-Jr on a mystery discount where I
> recieved an extra %15 off.  Could this be too low a price and they want
> to wait me out.  I ordered it in mid Feb they said they were BO'd they
> thought it would ship in one week.  About two weeks later I got a card in
> the mail saying it would ship on March 20.  On March 20 I got another
> card that said they would ship on April 30.  How long should I hold out?
> 
> You might want to be careful of Hartville Tool!
> 
> Garry
The one thing I ordered on the 15% discount from Hartville arrived with
no trouble.


From wallyo@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:17 EST 1997
Article: 193747 of rec.woodworking
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From: wallyo@ix.netcom.com(Edward O'Grady)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 3/4 in" lumber at 12" width?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:10:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Can anyone recommend a good source of exotic hardwoods that are 
3/4 in" thick and over 10" wide?   I can't find many places that
stock this.  I have been to Constantine's in New York (Bronx), and they
have some, but, trouble is I can't get enough of it.  I tried Woodcraft
and they said they can't even order it...Does anyone know of a source?
I especially need Bubinga, and Padauk, but I would also like
Yellowheart, and Zebrawood.

    One more question, about biscuits...Do I need to use biscuits with
the Polyurethane glue? on my humidors?  They should not be getting much
moisture, I put a finish on the inside corner.  I just glued two of
them without the biscuits and I'm going to see if they have any
trouble.  I can't see these things coming apart.  This glue is very
serious  (It's Excel).

    I'm sure somebody will know these answers, Thanks very much for
trying....I will e-mail anyone who responds...
                            Wally    


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:12:18 EST 1997
Article: 193748 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:15:36 -0600
Organization: Houston Area League of PC Users
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To: Rick Shelton <rshelton@wegener.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193748

Rick Shelton wrote:
> 
> I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
> round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
> rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
> dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> --
> - Rick Shelton
> 
>   rshelton@wegener.com

I doubt it would burn up your router, as long as it's not underpowered &
you take multiple passes, however being pine & saturated with
preservitive will almost surely trash your bits.  You might go for the
el cheapo high speed steel bits & toss them when they are burnt up.

Buzz


From rwgcubed@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:19 EST 1997
Article: 193749 of rec.woodworking
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From: rwgcubed@aol.com (RWGCUBED)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: drawer finishing advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:28:14 GMT
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I am just finishing up a chest of drawers, and I need some advice on
finishing the glides of the drawers. 

I recently read an article in one of the woodworking mags that mentioned
paraffin as the only finish on the exterior surface of the drawers (not
the face, of course). What has been your experience or favorite techniques
for finishing the drawers so that they don't gum up, or require
maintenance, etc.

I should mention: all the drawers fit snug, with wood drawer rails on the
top and bottom of each drawer built into the cabinet. There is no middle
track or any other mechanical device aiding in the operation of the
drawers.

Your opinion is appreciated, Thanks in advance...

Bob Gehrman
rwgcubed@aol.com



From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:20 EST 1997
Article: 193750 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 00:46:20 -0500
Organization: WebSpan Inc., New Jersey
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StkyFingr wrote:

> For your information, OSHA pased a statndard on methylene chloride on
> January 10 of this year, which lowers the permissible exposure limit (PEL)
> from 500 to 25 parts per million (ppm).  This standard becomes effective
> on April 10, 1997.  This standard also establishes a short-term (15 minute
> exposure limit, or STEL of 125 ppm.  Due to this standard, you can pretty
> much kiss methylene chloride goodbye!
> 
> Enough quotations in this for you?

Hello Tim:

There are now enough quotations for me. If you recall your original
question, you can see how it is easy for a reader of this newsgroup to
interpret it as some wise-guy response (which it now appears NOT to be
the case). I would say that we got off to a bad start, especially since
I not only share your beliefs on the issue of these solvents and how the
AlGores will put us out of business.

With your three followup posted messages (with quotations), you have
contributed valuable information that I enjoyed reading, and more
important, represents another side of a coin not so often seen.

I think that had it been included in your original post, I know that I
would not contributed such a defensive reponse on behalf of Mr. Klein.
There would have been no need to. I do not think that I would have
joined the thread at all, being content to sit on the sidelines and
observe, silently and passively.

Once again, I actually benefitted from the information that you
eventually did share with the newsgroup.
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
 Daniel

    / `-' )        ,,,
   | IU U||||||||[:::]
    \_.-.(         '''


From ocoin@vaxxine.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:21 EST 1997
Article: 193751 of rec.woodworking
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From: ocoin <ocoin@vaxxine.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Plan
Date: 1 Apr 1997 01:43:35 GMT
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try this http://members.aol.com/jonpressmg/saber.htmorbetter yet 
www.canadianworkshop.ca I have one more site if these don't work, bestof 
luck 
ChipsAhoy



From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:21 EST 1997
Article: 193752 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sander advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:51:52 GMT
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> Is there such a thing as a general purpose sander? I need something
> to do finishing work, but would also like to be able to use it

All around most useful would be a 5" random orbit. They do actually collect
dust better, and give a better finish, and are more aggressive. Unless
you're insane and love to sand.

They've really taken hold of the market for good reason.


From mattscgi@bandwagon.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:22 EST 1997
Article: 193753 of rec.woodworking
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From: "M. Kluttz" <mattscgi@bandwagon.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: willing to help a beginner?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:42:07 GMT
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To the wise of woodworking-

I stumbled a cross this news group and realized that this was just what I
was looking for.  I'm a beginner or shall we say very "green" when it comes
to building with wood.  However, I recently finished a few projects that
were quite successful and a lot of relaxing fun.  Now I'd like to build a
nice coffee table for my house but don't have enough knowledge or any plans
to get started.  Can anybody direct me on how I should get started.  Maybe
an easy plan for a table you could pass on?  I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

M. Kluttz (the rookie)


From maplelw@sover.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:23 EST 1997
Article: 193754 of rec.woodworking
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From: maplelw@sover.net (Michael Rainville)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bellsaw Planer
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:47:31 GMT
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>	I've got one and for $400.00 it's a helluva machine.  That's 
>what I paid for mine with a gang rip attachment in addition to the 
>planer and a 3 HP single phase motor with a magnetic starter.  
>	The company is still in business and still supports these older 
>machines.  Overall, it's a better buy than the DELTA "table top" planer 
>and much more akin to the ~$800.00 JET model.

I bought a second hand Belsaw 12" planer in 1985 for $600, great shape
well cared for. Always considered it a good machine though it vibrated
a fair amount. Last year the cast bearing housing on one side went
bad. I tracked down the current incarnation of the company and they
were very helpful but no longer had any of these parts in stock and
therefore could not help me. Took the problem to a machine shop and
worked out a $$ solution. 

Last month I had bearing problems on the other end. Decided not to
bother any more and bought a new Delta 15". The quality is so much
better I wish I had replaced the Belsaw long ago. I don't know whether
the old planer had some minor defects from the time I bought it, or if
I simply wore it out, or if the Delta is that much better. 

Mike Rainville  




From nt7t@teleport.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:24 EST 1997
Article: 193755 of rec.woodworking
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From: nt7t@teleport.com (Jim Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 03:05:18 GMT
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On 31 Mar 1997 21:27:59 GMT, mikemac@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald)
wrote:
snip
> This all makes sense provided the top is made out of the same material that
>the molding is made out of. In my case, that's not true. The molding is solid
>oak. The top is oak veneered plywood. I'd expect them to expand differently.
>(I'm a newbie so I have no idea if what I'm saying makes sense or not. It's
>just my educated guess.)
>
snip
>  Mike McDonald
>  mikemac@engr.sgi.com

Mike, on a cabinet the molding should be attached to the carcase of
the cabinet, not the top.  If the top is solid, it must be attached so
the top can expand and contract.  If you are using veneered plywood
top and solid carcase, the top still has to be attached so the carcase
can expand and contract. 

Plywood has almost no movement with normal changes in humudity.
Solid wood has very little movement with the grain....lots of movement
across the grain.  In your case if the carcase and top of the cabinet 
are plywood you don't have to worry about movement

Jim




From patmac@insnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:25 EST 1997
Article: 193756 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:51:17 -0600
From: patmac@insnet.com
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859873638.4663@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <01bc3ded$09f00680$1bbdb3cd@the_tick.mediware.com> <5hp7ua$1um@news2.cais.com>
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In article <5hp7ua$1um@news2.cais.com>,
  Mercutio@addis.net wrote:

> ...to distinguish between SPAM and the tweezer guy's obsequious
> but genuine pitch...

"Genuine Pitch" ?  It was spam.

> ...cast you you as an intellectual dwarf, and emotional
> midget, or both. (Apologies to height-challenged individuals who read
> this.)

Mercutio, it's too bad your brain is smaller than a sliver.  Then
you could use one of your $7 tweesers to pull your brain out of your rear.

Pat McInerney

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:25 EST 1997
Article: 193757 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tweezers
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:10:45 GMT
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In light of recent rukus over spam and tweezers. I can't find my original
response so to reiterate: Lee Valley has the exact same tweezers for $5.50,
a hair less than the offering of $7 via e-mail. Caveat Emptor



From troy@microm.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:26 EST 1997
Article: 193758 of rec.woodworking
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From: Troy Past <troy@microm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Joiner Recommendations
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:08:39 -0800
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Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
can't use very much.  I was considering the Delta Desktop Joiner.

Thanks


From oldtree@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:27 EST 1997
Article: 193759 of rec.woodworking
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From: Martin  Eastburn <oldtree@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:20:44 GMT
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Being an Air R.C. type also (sometimes) I deal with ni-cads
of several types.

What you have, (me too), is a battery that has several sets of 8 
batteries.  Each set is 8 cells, and each set is then attached + to +
for parallel capacity.  This helps us when one dies the pac doesn't -
just less power. 

If you discharge the set to 8V - 1V per cell in the series set of 8...

That is if you have a voltmeter - the voltage across the battery
is 8V or slightly less - this is optimum recharge level.
Sometimes Nicads (always) - retain memory - e.g. discharge down to the
level of last starting charge. - giving less and less power, but has
voltage.
If you have a friend that has RC cars or planes - perhaps they (M or F)
can help you with their nicad discharge capability. -

A resistor discharge with current limit, so excessive current isn't 
allowed.  You can do this if careful. Don't discharge below 8V across
the battery.

Your drill may not start to function due to lack of current, but the
battery has voltage (memory problem). 

so - yes if you are cautious resistor/autolamp can drain down the 
battery - but watch the voltage.  This will - repeat - will
erase 'memory', but NOT an OPEN CELL in a string of 8.

An Open is just bad luck.  
These series-parallel packs are generally great but tough to fix 
due to the container.
Martin
 



From Plecostamus@Fish.Net Wed Apr  2 12:12:28 EST 1997
Article: 193760 of rec.woodworking
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From: Plecostamus@Fish.Net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:07:27 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
they of any benefit?

I have just acquired a couple of planes and I need to learn about
sharpening.  I have searched my local library and bookstores but
couldn't find anything on the subject.  I have seen some in WoodHaven
and others. I am going to have to order one of those. In the meantime,
what is your opinion on the best way to go on stones (type, grit,
length and width)?  Are the 3 stone systems the best way to go??  Is
diamond better than the natural stone? All advice appreciated.

** JOE **

<<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
unwanted email when you leave a message in a
newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:29 EST 1997
Article: 193761 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:35:25 GMT
Organization: (missing)
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Porter Cable enjoys what I think is an overly avid following. I find the
690 series overrated in spite of it's overwhelming popularity. 

The better answer to your question is the best router for what ?

Here's why I'm not a big fan of the 69x series (my first "real" router)

1). The start. It starts with a jerk, with the standard base this is made
worse by the fact that the on/off switch is at the top of their universal
motor unit, not anywhere near the handle. This gives you an interesting
mid-air grab of the free handle at times. The "D" handle (691) allievates
this, but does not eliminate the jerk start. 
You must always keep this in mind as it _will_ move the entire router &
bit.

2). The depth adjustment. The entire motor is a "screw" of sorts, as is
standard with all routers of this type. Two problems occur here - first the
turning of the entire unit can offset the bit - just a hair - enough so you
can see it on the second pass. Second really fine adjustments are not that
easy, if you're not careful just tightening the base can change the
setting.

OTOH, getting attachments, guide bushings, bases, etc. for the PC 690 is
extremely easy - due to it's popularity. Also there is a plunge base for it
(it seems bulky to me).

Because of those two points and because it's the 90's I strongly feel an
electronic controlled plunge router is a better buy. 

I can't recommend Bosch because they have plunge problems. I've researched
the problem with mine (1613EVS) deep enough to know that Bosch continues to
work on the problem. I've had reliable reports (and hands-on) experience
with different models of the same family having the same problem. The Bosch
factory was unable to correct the problem on my 1613EVS, after a month of
keeping it. I should also note that Bosch bent over backwards trying to
make me happy, excellent customer support.

DeWalt's new 621 is a dandy router, it has somewhat "quirky" controls and
I'm still not entirely sold on the dust collection. It plunges beautifully,
and is light enough to work well as a hand-held unit. However the downside
is the footprint given up for dust collection (there's not much of a base)
leaves it less stable than others in similar situations. Noting that this
is only my personal experience, but I've never had a DeWalt tool fail on
me.

The one edge the 69x seems to hold over the plunges is that it holds a
lower center of gravity.

Then there are the "big" hummers. I have the Freud FT2000E as well, but
it's never seen anything bit the bottom of my router table. I've never felt
comfortable using a big 3hp router as a hand-held unit, nor have I needed
the power to do so.
The PC 3hp unit weighs in at 17lbs last time I checked. That's heavy.

Frankly, once you hit the PC/Bosch/DeWalt level you're looking at a good
machine regardless. Most of the stuff ends up being subjective. I'm sure
many will tell you their 1613 works perfectly in every way, or that you'd
be an idiot for not considering the 69x the "best". Whatever. PC's
following stems from a long history with construction use as well, but it's
the only router I've had where a bearing has failed.. so what does that
mean ? I hardly subject any of my routers to arduous, daily use.

Of the three bench routers I have (PC 69x, Bosch 1613EVS, DeWalt 621) I
find myself reaching for the 621 more often than any other. I like the
ergonomics, but you might hate them. Also the 621 does not yet have a
factory supplied edge guide so the 1613 still gets called. Rarely, rarely
do I ever reach for the PC.







From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:30 EST 1997
Article: 193762 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:41:22 GMT
Organization: (missing)
Lines: 23
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Troy:

In my experience, the length of the tables (or bed?) is the key to
jointing. The smaller 4" and 6" bench top units don't stretch very far. My
6" handles about a 6' long board - but that's about it's max capacity. If
you could stretch for the Jet you wouldn't regret it - at least until
you're ready for the 8" !

I have the Powermatic 54, and in spite of the bad rap, I must have got a
good one. I'm very happy with it and the results I get. Working on my bench
I'd have killed for access to the long bed DJ-20, but not to be.

This sounds like another "buy the best or you'll regret it" follow up, but
I know that a smaller jointer than the one I have would provide little real
utility.

Troy Past <troy@microm.com> wrote in article <3340A667.232F@microm.com>...
> Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
> budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
> can't use very much.  I was considering the Delta Desktop Joiner.
> 
> Thanks
> 


From nsummers@istar.ca Wed Apr  2 12:12:31 EST 1997
Article: 193763 of rec.woodworking
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From: nsummers@istar.ca (Neil Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Unimpressed by Delta Bandsaws
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:50:40 GMT
Organization: iSTAR Internet Inc.
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On Thu, 20 Mar 1997 08:54:38 -0800, Randy Wittchen
<wittco@axionet.com> wrote:

>Neil Summers wrote:
><SNIP>
>>Jet is simply unavailable here and it will be more expensive to
>> get it shipped from the US. I'd also consider purchasing tools like
>> this somewhere other than Canadian Tire, though they have an excellent
>> return policy. Tough call for me but I just wouldn't "feel right"
>> buying my large tools there.
><SNIP>
>
>Hi Neil
>
>Jet has a distibutor in the Greater Vancouver area.
>
>Jet Equipment and Tools Ltd.
>1291 Parker Ave.
>Burnaby, B.C.
>
>Tel: (604)251-4711
>
>Randy

Yes thanks Randy. I was made aware of this shortly after I posted that
message. I've called and already located a retalier in Calgary...great
news! It seems that Jet is now widely available in Canada.



_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 
nsummers@istar.ca
Neil Summers
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 


From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:32 EST 1997
Article: 193764 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:03:39 -0800
Organization: Self
Lines: 13
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193764

Note that in a lot of cases B&D's industrial line is the same as Dewalt
(they're the same company).

Dave Druckerman

> Richard O'Brien wrote:
> 
> I've got a B&D "Industrial" saw that I've been using for 5-6 years
> without any problems what so ever.  B&D like a lot of other manufacturers
> have 3 separate lines of tools, DIY, Professional and Industrial.  These
> are from cheapest (low quality) to expensive (but worth it IMO).
> 
> Rick


From eloso@azstarnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:32 EST 1997
Article: 193765 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Bear" <eloso@azstarnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Span lengths
Date: 1 Apr 1997 06:17:01 GMT
Organization: Starnet
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <01bc3e64$5194f6e0$3311c5a9@Merlin.azstarnet.com>
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Steve,

As far as I'm concerned, the definitive book on designing with
structural timbers is "SIMPLIFIED DESIGN OF STRUCTURAL
TIMBER", by Harry Parker, M.S., published by John Wiley & Sons.

Bear

Steve Rimar <D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU> wrote in article
<17B40150DCS86.D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU>...
> What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
> Thanks for all replies.
>  
>  
> STEVE RIMAR
>  
>              d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
>  
>  
>          all comments are my own
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> 


From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:12:33 EST 1997
Article: 193766 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: 1 Apr 1997 08:16:50 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 30
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>I opted for a combination finish of BLO/Tung oil/Varnish. There have
>been several articles in recent issues of WW magazines (see FWW Feb. '97
>#122) that discuss similar mixtures, e.g. oil/turpentine/varnish, etc.
>and their application. I didn't mix mine myself, but rather opted to buy
>Sam Maloof's oil/varnish blend (available from The Woodworker's Store).
>Absolutely foolproof to apply -- just wipe it on and wipe it off. The
>oils bring out the character of the cherry, plus they thin the varnish,
>allowing easy application and a glass-smooth finish without dust specks.
>And the varnish provides added moisture protection. 

Im intrigued by this Sam Maloof mixture. Truly a wipe on finish? No 
brushes?  No runs? Does it build a decent shine? Im in the process of
making a dresser for the female crittur, and want to get away from the
watco/poly topcoat Ive been using cause its a pain in the butt to get
it real smooth with no streaks.

stev





-- 
stev_ix_netcom_com
Add the @ and the dots, the auto reply address
is a fake. Sorry, Im tired of all the crap I
get in the mail.     
************************************



From fuzz@nut.wood Wed Apr  2 12:12:34 EST 1997
Article: 193767 of rec.woodworking
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From: fuzz@nut.wood (stev)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: 1 Apr 1997 08:19:31 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 43
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In article <5hoqhd$9d4$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>, whylandj@kodak.com says...
>
>I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen 
>cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is 
to 
>leave them natural with no stain.  How will this look (or is it recommended 
to 
>at least apply a light stain to help bring out the grain)?  In terms of the 
>finish, I don't own expensive spraying equipment so my options seem limited. 
 
>Is it advisable to go with a polyurethane (water based) product such as 
Minwax 
>which I can get in a spray can or are there better choices?  I'm making the 
>cabinets myself so I'm inclined to spend a little more $$ if the end product 
>is that much nicer.
>
>As always, thanks for the help.
>
>Jeff


First of all, ignore the other cherry finishing thread going and pay
attention to the guys responding here that believe staining cherry is 
a sin. Others will try to mislead you and have you mixing up paint and
other substances to apply to your cherry. 
Ive been putting on watco oil, which darkens the cherry a bit and brings 
out the grain real good. Then I topcoat it with that water based poly
made by varathane. I have tried varathane only on some test stock, and 
it was lighter, but I like the way the oil brings out the grain more.
I think for the lightest tone, water based poly with uv inhibitors is
probably the way to go. 

stev



-- 
stev_ix_netcom_com
Add the @ and the dots, the auto reply address
is a fake. Sorry, Im tired of all the crap I
get in the mail.     
************************************



From baywood@memes.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:35 EST 1997
Article: 193768 of rec.woodworking
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From: baywood@memes.com (Dave Lers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HVLP using Latex for woodworking
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:36:56 GMT
Organization: Network Access Services, Inc.
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Tony Vickers <tony.vickers@sdrc.com> wrote:
 
>get a quality finish, and have bought a high quality latex paint. A few
>articles I have recently read have conflicting negative reports on using
>latex paint with an HVLP system. Does anyone have any experience or

I gave up. I bought #5 and 6 tips in the hopes of spraying latex and I
couldn't get it to atomize very well. The paint store said you need
10psi min at the tip to be able to spray latex (I supposedly have 6).
Some oils/quick dries get an uneven sheen when thinned to much.
Preservative/Kelly Moore Spedicoat works well even when thinned
heavily (I returned the tips and use a #4 for paint). Lacquer is also
well suited to HVLP (Sherwin Williams CAB acrylic has been recommended
for non yellowing and it sprays well out of the can but is not readily
available in quantities less than 5 gal.). I would never have
considered latex for an entertainment center but have been told that
strides have been made and that latex can be as hard and durable as
oil (in my house it got soft where hands touch the trim a lot). I have
never tried a "normal" oil based paint. I have been very happy with
Hydrocoat's Equal (clear waterbased lacquer) and wonder how the white
sprays though it would have to be clear coated with a more durable
finish (like their Resisthane) as Equal is not a real durable finish.
--
Dave Lers
baywood@memes.com
http://www.memes.com/~baywood/


From Druckerman@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:36 EST 1997
Article: 193769 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for source for 1-1/8" thick MDF in SF Bay Area
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 00:57:44 -0800
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Any help would be appreciated.  I need a source for 1/2 sheet (4' x 4')
of 1-1/8" thick MDF for an extension table for my cabinet saw.  The mfg.
wants $199 for a 24" x 31" wide piece!  Must be able to do better than
that.  I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, and PALS (Plywood and Lumber
Sales) doesn't have it.  Anyone know of other sources in the area or,
worst case, mail order?  In advance, thanks for your help.

Dave Druckerman
Druckerman@worldnet.att.net

PALS is willing to order it for me, but the minimum order is 30 sheets.
Anyone in the area looking for 29-1/2 sheets of 1-1/8" thick MDF?  (Just
thought I'd ask)  :-(


From tpcassc@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:36 EST 1997
Article: 193770 of rec.woodworking
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From: TPC <tpcassc@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grape vine scroll work
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:15:39 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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TPC wrote:
> 
> Antique bassenet with decorative scroll work which is broken and need
> replacement.  anybody have a source for grape vine or an idea on how to
> have the work done.  The scroll work is about four turns on each end.
> 
> Thanks  please email
> 
> Tom


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:37 EST 1997
Article: 193771 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:04 GMT
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Serious question: what's a "French drain"?




From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:38 EST 1997
Article: 193772 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Span lengths
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:07 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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They vary according to the code for where you live, and the intended
load factor. Get a copy of your local building code book - bookstore
or library. It should give you all this information and a great deal
more.  

On Sat, 29 Mar 97 23:57:16 EST, D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
wrote:

>What is the max span lengths for a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12?
>Thanks for all replies.
> 
> 
>STEVE RIMAR
> 
>             d1sar@vm1.cc.uakron.edu
> 
> 
>         all comments are my own
>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:39 EST 1997
Article: 193773 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:14 GMT
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It won't hurt your router, but it might hurt your lungs. The stuff is
really quite toxice. In any event, there are two other reasons why wou
shouldn't and don't need to do it:

First, PT, like beauty, really is only skin deep. The lighter wood
colour underneath will show, and you'll be very unhappy with your nice
rounded over "stripes". Not to mention that the wood will be far less
"protected". 

Second, any decent lumber yard ought to be able to offer you rounded
over PT deck boards. They're a standard item for which you pay a small
premium.

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:08:21 -0600, Rick Shelton
<rshelton@wegener.com> wrote:

>I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
>round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
>rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
>dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
>
>Thanks.
>
>-- 
>- Rick Shelton
>
>  rshelton@wegener.com



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:40 EST 1997
Article: 193774 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tamarack
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:08 GMT
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A further piece of inconsequential information: if I recall correctly,
tamarack is also the only conifer that loses its needles in the
winter. They turn yellow in the autumn and then drop.



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:41 EST 1997
Article: 193775 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:16 GMT
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No disagreement with your satisfaction with the Jet cabinet saw, but
don't compare it to a Unisaw. They are two very different machines.

Let me quote from a response I made a few weeks ago to a similar
misconception: 

Delta has three distinct consumer product lines (there are some larger
production models, as well): the contractor's saw, the cabinet saw,
and the unisaw. So does Jet.

The "10" Tilting Arbor Saw" or "cabinet saw" offered by Delta (model
36-755) is, in fact, mechanically and electrically closer to a
contractor's saw (34-444)  than to the Unisaw (34-763) which it
resembles in appearance only. 

The trunnions are the same as the contractor's - tube steel plus
narrow castings -  which are hung from the saw table. The Unisaw's
trunnions are more massive  castings - no tubes -  and are very wide
in order to be hung from the cabinet. 

The cabinet saw's motor is rated at 2 HP with a single V-belt, and the
contractor's at 1.5 HP with a single V-belt, whereas the Unisaw is
available with 3-5 HP motors, all of which come with 3 V-belts. 

However, the cabinet saw does have cast extension wings, a Unisaw-like
base cabinet, and the motor is suspended below the trunnions. The
contractor's saw has pressed steel extension tables, an open stand,
and the motor hangs out the back.

Now, if anyone can figure out the logic of Delta's product numbers, we
could start another thread.

On 31 Mar 1997 16:21:04 GMT, doryjoe@aol.com (Dory Joe) wrote:

>Like many woodworkers, I started with the contractors saw, and it is the
>best saw for the money.  If you want to move up to a higher quality level,
>there are now options other than the Unisaw.  For many years I hungered
>for the Unisaw, but just could not justify the price difference.  Recently
>I have noticed that Jet saws have been getting favorable press including
>many in this group.  I resisted because I figured, just another knock off
>from those guys "over there".  I was wrong.  After agonizing many months,
>I bought the 2hp Jet cabinet saw.  I caught it on sale, and got the saw
>with standard fence for under $900.00 with the Jet $40.00 rebate.  I
>couldn't be happier!  The saw is smooth, quiet and cuts like a dream.  The
>finish and fit are in my opinion just as good as Delta, and I have always
>been a Delta man and have a shop full of their tools.  
>
>Another reason to stretch for the cabinet saw is the advantage of dust
>collection.  Eventually most people make this move.  Trying to efficiently
>remove dust from a contractor say is futile.  All of us have tried, none
>very successfuly.  The cabinet saw makes it possible.  Just some grist for
>your mill.  Good luck, Joe



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:42 EST 1997
Article: 193776 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Teak
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:22 GMT
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I suggested this a few months ago to someone who wanted to re-do a
teak swim deck on his boat.

I had the same problem you described and I tried every finish I could,
but no joy and lots of frustration. Then one day in desperation, I
tried a couple of coats of the cedar siding preservative I had on
hand. Perfect! I know it sounds too easy, but it held up beautifully,
and because it doesn't form a skin like varnish, it can easily be
re-coated. It finishes matte if that matters to you.

Ttry it on a piece of scrap and let it weather a bit. I suspect you'll
be a convert, too.

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:10:35 GMT, djf3rd@xpipeline.com wrote:

>Unless you keep the vessel under cover or have full time crew
>varsished teak is a 'pain in the a__'.
>There is NO question that,it is beautiful but who of us without 
>unlimited resources can maintain it? That is, if you use your vessel
>for any thing but a gin palace?
>IMOP oiled teak is the most practical method of maintaining exterior
>teak and also IMOP for interior teak.
>I do not believe that the stain on the piece of furniture would be as 
>serious if the original finish had been an oil finish and the repair
>would be that much easier. But don't take my word for it!
>"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
>Remove X to reply



From wood at smart.net Wed Apr  2 12:12:43 EST 1997
Article: 193777 of rec.woodworking
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From: ##wood@smart.net## (Patrick S.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lindon Wood?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:11:02 GMT
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	Friend has a Lindon tree in his yard coming down.  Base girth is
~30 inches.  Asked me what good it is cut up, I said I Dunno.  Anybody
have an idea?

	He thinks it's close to bass wood, maybe nice to carvers...


			Pat


wood at smart<dot>net

ANTI-SPAM ALERT: please put the above together to email me.


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:44 EST 1997
Article: 193778 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wishing for more ww TV shows (was Re: Norm's technique)
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Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 16:04:00 -0600
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When the WW materials suppliers wanna sponsor a tv show is probably

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         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:45 EST 1997
Article: 193779 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fingerprints
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Take some NAPTHA and a rag or EXTRA fine steel wool grade 4/0 or 0000
grade and rub off the prints,,On finished stuff thee primo cleaner is
get some Mechanics WATERLESS hand cleaner without pumice-The kind that
looks like lard or butter and has Petroleum on the ingredients label and
rub it onto furn with a fine steel wool pad and the furn will look like
new after cleaned then rubbed with a cloth......
                               LW

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         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
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From sam@s054.aone.net.au Wed Apr  2 12:12:46 EST 1997
Article: 193780 of rec.woodworking
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From: Sam Clarke <sam@s054.aone.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Built In Cabinet
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:53:58 +1000
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Hi,

I am planning to construct a Built In Cabinet for a family room.

Something with a row of cabinets at floor level, a row of cabinets from
ceiling level and some bookshelves in the middle portion.

I was wondering if anyone knew where to get plans for something like
this  on the Net?

Rgds..Sam


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From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:47 EST 1997
Article: 193781 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting wood & wedges???
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:01 GMT
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What you want is a "froe". It's a simple tool you can make  yourself,
get made by a blacksmith, or buy it from Lee Valley Tools. Hammered
with a wooden mallet, a froe - just a piece of heavy steel - about the
size of a car's leaf spring which is one source - attached to a short
90' handle, is designed to split logs of small to medium diameters
along the grain, i.e. to not sever the wood fibres, thereby preserving
the maximum strength. It's better than a blunt hatchet because once
started in to the log, the handle allows you to twist the froe and
therefore cause the log to split natrually.

I'm not sure about the wooden wedges. I should think something like
hickory, which is really tough, would do. And, I should think, but
don't know, that the angle of the wedge is the key factor in ensuring
it stays put once driven into the saw kerf. 

On 31 Mar 97 00:47:10 UTC, bradsm@idirect.com (brad smith) wrote:

>I want to make axe and hammer handles, I want to get the wood myself and
>make it from scratch. What I need is information on how to properly
>split the wood into sections.
>A friend of mine tells me that his grandfather use to do this with a
>blunt hatchet and wedges, anyone know about this method? Also I want to
>use wooden wedges for my handles, what would be the best wood for this?
>any tips on how to make sure the wedges dont come out and a nice tight
>fit?
>
>Thanks,
>             brad.
>



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:48 EST 1997
Article: 193782 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood question (Maple)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:21 GMT
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You'll likely find that most commercial sawyers won't touch a
"backyard tree". The chances of  a nail or other metal in the wood is
too great a risk to their very expensive saws. Thus getting it cut
into lumber might be very difficult.

However, try your luck, but Tim's suggestions might be the way to go
if you can't find someone to do it.


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:48 EST 1997
Article: 193783 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sander advice needed
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:22 GMT
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Buy the Dewalt Random Orbit Sander, about $65-70. It does a good job
and has a reasonably effective dust collection bag as standard.




From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:49 EST 1997
Article: 193784 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressor Size/Type
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:58 GMT
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I didn't see the original request for info, but I want to thank you
for it. I, too, have been wondering how to size a compressor for my
shop this summer. Your approach is very practical.



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:50 EST 1997
Article: 193785 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Questions, Questions...
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On 1 Apr 1997 04:55:34 GMT, "Dane Lance" <lance@txdirect.net> wrote:

I'm bored tonight, so I'll have a go at answering your questions, and
do so in the spirit of trying to stay within your budget :
>
>	Thanks to everyone for their fine suggestions and obvious
>experience and knowledge in helping me select tools to start my shop.
>Now, I have more questions.....(hee hee hee)...
>
>	WHY, why, why are Craftsman tools so bad??  What specific characteristics
>makes them so hated?  

They are packaged attractively, but are cheaply made for the casual
hobbyist rather than the "serious amateur"; they tend to be less
accurate; and don't last as long as "better brands". 

I think I have done well with the advice given so far and
>my tool selections so far are mostly a mix of Delta and Porter-Cable, however,
>I'm looking real hard at a Craftsman table saw.  For some reason, table saws
>from Delta or other respected makers are either hard to find or way too
>expensive for me.  I'm not really interested in mail order and the shipping
>costs for Jet or Grizzly equipment.  The Delta table saws that I CAN afford are
>little bench-top models.  I looking for a floor model with the heavy cast iron
>extensions and decent fences.  The new Craftsman model 29941N "Contractor
>Series" 3HP 10" has the features I'm looking for and is priced at $549 (i.e. I
>can afford it).  It sure looks like a nice saw.....I'm just curious as to what
>makes Craftsman power tools so "crappy".....

Again, if you read the threads, the issue is not so much the basic saw
alone as it is the fence and saw combination. My impression is that
lots of people in the newsgroup have Craftsman table saws that are
basically ok, but that their satisfaction levels rose remarkably when
they put a good aftermarket fence on them. I saw a posting not long
ago that indicates that Sears now offers a new fence, and that a
couple of people who purchased it liked it a lot. If the saw you're
looking at comes with that fence, it's probably at best an ok buy. 

The alternatives are:

1)  the Delta 36-470 contractor's saw with a 40" Biesemeyer on sale at
$779 after rebate. 

2) the Grizzly G1022Z with a "standard" i.e. poor fence costs $449. An
aftermarket fence would add about $250-300 to that. 

3)  the Jet JWTS-10JF contractor's saw which lists at $749 with a good
Jet fence is/was on sale for $529 after rebate. 

If it were me, I know which one I'd choose - the Jet. (FYI, I got this
info from a recent edition of Woodshop News.)
>
>More questions....
>
>	What is meant when they say a motor is rated for 1.5HP, but develops 3HP
>maximum?  Is it 3HP or is it 1.5HP???

Developed horsepower is the maximum theoretical possibility, usually
just before the motor burns out. It is a term applied to universal
motors eg the kind in a router, versus induction motors, the kind that
you see hanging off the end of a contractors saw. I'm not an
electrical expert, but I don't understand how Sears could use the
terminology for an induction motor. In any event, don't believe the 3
HP claim. Almost every contractor's saw on the market has a 1 1/2 HP
induction motor.
>
>	Is it better to wire your motors for 240V or 120V if you have the choice?

There have been reams of learned discourse written on this question in
several recent threads in the newsgroup. Check www.deja.news. The
simple answer is "Yes".
>
>	Is a dust collection system really necessary if I already have a large shop
>vac and connect it to the collectors on the machinery?
>
No.

	What's the best sources for wood?  I understand "Home Depot"
wood isn't
>exactly the choice of woodworkers.  

Try your yellow pages for a yard that sells hardwoods. Then it's
caveat emptor.
>
>		Thanks,
>
>			Dane
>
>lance@txdirect.net
>



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:51 EST 1997
Article: 193786 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: checking for square?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:43 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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Try using a couple of "story sticks" instead of a tape measure. Just
cut two pieces of hardwood to less than the shortest diagonal length
you'll want to measure. Using a rasp or a sander, "vee" one end of
each stick - for assistance see the earlier thread on making a point
on the down-pointing end of a stick.  Take a very small C clamp or
spring clamp and  lightly clamp the two sticks against each other with
a vee end pointing out. Set them inside the carcass and extend to the
distance of one of your diagonals. Try the other one. etc., etc. and
use a bar clamp as per suggestion 4) below.

On 1 Apr 1997 03:04:34 GMT, "John Hofstad-Parkhill"
<jhparkhill@sihope.com> wrote:

>
>4). Use a third (or fifth) clamp diagonally across the carcase to bring it
>to square.
>



From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:12:51 EST 1997
Article: 193787 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:38 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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I'll e-mail you a fascinating  piece on "scary sharp". All you need is
a piece of plate glass and some very fine grit (1200-2000) paper.

For in-depth info, check your library for the book on sharpening by
Leonard Lee.


On Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:07:27 GMT, Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:

>Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
>hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
>they of any benefit?
>
>I have just acquired a couple of planes and I need to learn about
>sharpening.  I have searched my local library and bookstores but
>couldn't find anything on the subject.  I have seen some in WoodHaven
>and others. I am going to have to order one of those. In the meantime,
>what is your opinion on the best way to go on stones (type, grit,
>length and width)?  Are the 3 stone systems the best way to go??  Is
>diamond better than the natural stone? All advice appreciated.
>
>** JOE **
>
><<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
>unwanted email when you leave a message in a
>newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
>just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>



From henry.douglas@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:12:52 EST 1997
Article: 193788 of rec.woodworking
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From: Henry Douglas <henry.douglas@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water-based stain on veneer?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:43:32 -0500
Organization: HY Creations
Lines: 17
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193788

Jean Heroux wrote:
> 
> > I'm about to tackle my first try with veneer on a tabletop.  Should I
> > worry that a water-based stain will make my veneer totally warp and
> > buckle? (fyi: mahogany veneer)
> 
> I've had a bad experience staining an old chest with aniline dye. The
> veneer did buckle and warp. However, the glue was probably hide glue,
> and it didn't hold up well at all to water. I guess the answer to your
> problem depends on what kind glue you used under the veneer.
I have used Flecto water-based Diamond Colour Water-based stains on
veneer for the past four years and never had a problem with it lifting
or buckling the veneers.  It may raise the grain a bit on some veneers
but instead of sanding the fuzz off, knock it off with a scotch-brite
pad and then put Flecto Diamond Elite water-based varathane over top. 
You can top-coat in two hours.
Henry


From jschlee@tir.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:53 EST 1997
Article: 193789 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jim Schlee <jschlee@tir.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Outfeed Table for Delta Contractor II TS
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:06:45 -0500
Organization: The Internet Ramp
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Delta has a new outfeed support system for the CS & CS II. Don't know
the part #, but I saw it on display at my local dealer. It was installed
on the CS, but I assume it would work on the CS II. Its essentially a
couple of arms that attach to the side of the saw cabinet, underneath
the table on both sides, & extends out the back of the saw to support a
table. It also folds down when not being used. About $40.00...

Jim


From jaz@gwis.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:54 EST 1997
Article: 193790 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@gwis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS-Aligner Jr./Hartville Tool
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:43:39 -0500
Organization: Gateway to Internet Services
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David B. Goldstein wrote:
 >
> > You might want to be careful of Hartville Tool!
> >
> > Garry
> The one thing I ordered on the 15% discount from Hartville arrived with
> no trouble.

Hartville Tool is a big disorganized but they are otherwise wonderful to
deal with. They are about 60 miles from me and just before last New Year
I called them and got an amazingly good price on a Jet 13" planer. The
price beat any mail-order price by $150. The catch was that I had to
pick it up that day since they were closing the next day and not
re-opening until 1997 in which case the price would go back to normal.
Their computer showed that they had 11 in stock. Anyway, I called a
buddy to go with me (to help carry it) and we both took the afternoon
off of work. When we got there I was told a computer error was made and
that none were in stock. I was ticked off but they agreed to
hand-deliver the thing to my house when it came in. A few weeks later,
they delivered it and even carried it (all 250 pounds worth) down into
my basement workshop. They even threw in a set of link belts for free
when the belts ended up missing from the manufacturer's packaging.

I've ordered and bought many other smaller items too with very little
problem. 

Incidentally, they have a lifetime warrentee on ANYTHING bought through
their mail order catalog. That's hard to beat ! I wouldn't hesitate to
buy anything from them.

If you feel you're being given the run-around on the TS-Aligner, call
them and express your dissatisfaction. I bet they'll do something for
you. They seem to be run more like a mom-pop shop than a large tool
reseller.

-Jaz

-- 
> 
> Jack A. Zucker                          | ESP Music
> jaz@gwis.com (or)                       | Voice: 216 349 5881 (home)
> Jack.Zucker@software.rockwell.com       | Voice: 216 646 7796 (work)
>                                         |   Fax: 216 646 7766 (work)


From opencon@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:55 EST 1997
Article: 193791 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Machinery, horror story concluded
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:23:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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Thanks for the follow up, and thumbs up to WS for making it right by you. That 
gives those of us who read this newsgroup an idea of what they'll do to remedy 
a problem.

Marty

In article <01bc3dc6$f5991300$e67904c7@mycomputer.dsp.com>, "Ron Picchi" 
<julio@dsp.com> wrote:
>After having two Unisaws damaged/ destroyed  in transit from Woodworker's
>Supply , with much lost time (and consequently, money) as well as mental
>anguish throughout the process of finally receiving one in good condition, 
>I must report that, in the end , Woodworker's Supply took care of me.  I
>asked for a compensatory reduction in price as a condition of continuing my
>purchase (and subsequently a third delivery attempt) and they agreed-- they
>also took special precautions in preparing the saw for shipment the third
>time around. While it may or may not be true that their freight carriers to
>the S.F. bay area are of questionable reliability, Woodworker's itself was
>very responsive to my complaints and was willing to resolve the situation
>to my satisfaction,   --- Special thanks to Arlene in their traffic
>department.    
>


From Schade@guillemot-kayaks.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:56 EST 1997
Article: 193792 of rec.woodworking
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From: Nick Schade <Schade@guillemot-kayaks.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I need a word  for "decoupage" with wood
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:38:24 -0500
Organization: Guillemot Kayaks
Lines: 100
Message-ID: <333A9470.3C8A@guillemot-kayaks.com>
References: <3326DF9E.5683@guillemot-kayaks.com> <19970326190300.OAA02913@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193792

JBS213 wrote:
> =

> If it's inlaid, it would be "marquetry" -- similar to parquet flooring.
> Don't know what you'd call it if it's truly just glued on as paper is in
> decoupage.

I am trying to choose between decoupage, marquetry, and intarsia.

Webster=B9s New World=99 College Dictionary (Third Edition):

de=80cou=80page
n.
1	the art of cutting out designs or illustrations from paper, foil, =

etc., mounting them decoratively on a surface, and applying several =

coats of varnish or lacquer
2	work done by decoupage
vt.
-paged, -paging to decorate by using decoupage

Etymology
[Fr decoupage < decouper, to cut out < de-, de- + couper, to cut < coup: =

see coup]
------------------
mar=80que=80try =

n.
decorative inlaid work of wood, ivory, metal, etc., used in furniture =

and flooring

Etymology
[Fr marqueterie < marqueter, to spot, inlay < marque, a mark < OFr merc =

< ON merki < Gmc *marka, mark1]
------------------
in=80tar=80si=80a
n.
a style of decorative or pictorial inlay, esp. of the Italian =

Renaissance, involving a mosaic of wood pieces or, sometimes, ivory, =

metal, etc.

Etymology
[It intarsio < intarsiare, to inlay, incrust < in-, in + Ar tarsi, inlay =

work < rassaa, to inlay]
------------------------

What I am doing is gluing very thin veneer on the surface of a =

strip-built kayak and fiberglassing over it. This sounds very much like =

decoupage. Marquetry and intarsia look very similar to each other. They =

are both a form of inlay. The difference is in intarsia the veneer is =

inlayed into a background of solid wood where with marquetry the design =

is inlayed into veneer, i.e. the whole surface is veneered. (this is =

according to the Columbia encyclopedia). By this definition, what I am =

doing is not marquetry because my background is solid wood (strips). It =

is not inlayed so it is not really intarsia, but decoupage is not =

usually done with wood. I am currently trying to decide which word to =

use.

Any comments?

For an example of what I am doing see =

<http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Building/Guillemot/Built.html>

Thanks to everyone how has responded
     =

-- =



Nick Schade
Guillemot Kayaks
10 Ash Swamp Rd
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(860) 659-8847

Schade@snet.net
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/

>>>>"It's not just Art, It's a Craft!"<<<<




From opencon@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:56 EST 1997
Article: 193793 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bellsaw Planer
Date: 1 Apr 1997 05:32:01 -0700
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FYI, I've heard that POWERMATIC is now making and stocking parts for the 
Belsaw Planer. They took over production of the unit. Powermatic is making the 
planer now for Belsaw. You can see it at www.powermatic.com

Marty

In article <5hpif8$nt6$1@thrush.sover.net>, maplelw@sover.net (Michael 
Rainville) wrote:
>>       I've got one and for $400.00 it's a helluva machine.  That's 
>>what I paid for mine with a gang rip attachment in addition to the 
>>planer and a 3 HP single phase motor with a magnetic starter.  
>>       The company is still in business and still supports these older 
>>machines.  Overall, it's a better buy than the DELTA "table top" planer 
>>and much more akin to the ~$800.00 JET model.
>
>I bought a second hand Belsaw 12" planer in 1985 for $600, great shape
>well cared for. Always considered it a good machine though it vibrated
>a fair amount. Last year the cast bearing housing on one side went
>bad. I tracked down the current incarnation of the company and they
>were very helpful but no longer had any of these parts in stock and
>therefore could not help me. Took the problem to a machine shop and
>worked out a $$ solution. 
>
>Last month I had bearing problems on the other end. Decided not to
>bother any more and bought a new Delta 15". The quality is so much
>better I wish I had replaced the Belsaw long ago. I don't know whether
>the old planer had some minor defects from the time I bought it, or if
>I simply wore it out, or if the Delta is that much better. 
>
>Mike Rainville  
>
>


From jdbeatty@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:57 EST 1997
Article: 193794 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John D. Beatty" <jdbeatty@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice on kitchen cabinet refinishing
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:02:42 -0800
Organization: GE Medical News Server
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <33412392.7592@execpc.com>
References: <E7MAH3.1Hr@drnews.dr.lucent.com> <333A0154.7D64@hal-pc.org>
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keevmk wrote:
> 
> Susan wrote:
> >
> > HELP!
> >
> > I have purchased a home ~2 years old with "white-washed" oak
> > cupboards.  I would realllly like to refinish them in a nice
> > medium-hued oak stain.  

[whack]
 
> In addition to removing the finish, unless the cabinets were very
> expensive every large flat surface other than the doors and frames is
> probably melamine or some other cheesy plastic imitation.
> 
> Just my two cents worth
> Buzz

Tho' I'll probably be branded as a heretic, you can try laminating the
flat surfaces with 1/8 inch birch (providing they aren't too ornate) and
stripping the face frames with Citristrip like I just did with some old
Merrilats.  Worked great and I can make them look like my newer birch
cabinets.

If they have reliefs you can try:

Strip
Wash with TSP
Wash with 50% water. 50% water-soluble stain in desired color
Stain full strength.

This worked with some oak panel doors I had in the front room.  You have
to want them fairly dark, though, and I'd advise the water-soluable
because you can control it better (at least I can).

-- 
JD Beatty     West Allis, Wisconsin, USA
jdbeatty@execpc.com
Beatty's Maxim:  The only sources of historical truth are time machines
and faith.  The trick is knowing which one you're working with.


From jdbeatty@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:58 EST 1997
Article: 193795 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John D. Beatty" <jdbeatty@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:08:55 -0800
Organization: GE Medical News Server
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Paul Buerk wrote:
> 
> I use Visio. OK, it's not really a CAD program, but it is very easy to use,
> does autodimensioning, and can be set to work in 100ths of an inch. There
> are several versions of this package out there, but I only have experience
> with 3.0.

The biggest advantage to the Technical version is that it takes in DWGs
(AUTOCAD), and it's got a BUNCH of templates that can be useful.

-- 
JD Beatty     West Allis, Wisconsin, USA
jdbeatty@execpc.com
Beatty's Maxim:  The only sources of historical truth are time machines
and faith.  The trick is knowing which one you're working with.


From klb@ti.com Wed Apr  2 12:12:59 EST 1997
Article: 193796 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kurt Blank" <klb@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
Date: 1 Apr 1997 13:07:50 GMT
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John,
Just how long is the bed on your Jet?  I too, have had experience with my
bed being too short.  However, for the price and amount of space I have
available, I bought a 6" Sears $300 jointer about 12 years ago.  It works
great up to 3' to 4' feet but I do struggle with longer pieces.  

Oh yea, I hated to say Sears, but really have no complaints.

Regards,
Kurt 
> In my experience, the length of the tables (or bed?) is the key to
> jointing. The smaller 4" and 6" bench top units don't stretch very far.
My
> 6" handles about a 6' long board - but that's about it's max capacity. If
> you could stretch for the Jet you wouldn't regret it - at least until
> you're ready for the 8" !
> 
> I have the Powermatic 54, and in spite of the bad rap, I must have got a
> good one. I'm very happy with it and the results I get. Working on my
bench
> I'd have killed for access to the long bed DJ-20, but not to be.
> 
> This sounds like another "buy the best or you'll regret it" follow up,
but
> I know that a smaller jointer than the one I have would provide little
real
> utility.



From whylandj@kodak.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:00 EST 1997
Article: 193797 of rec.woodworking
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From: whylandj@kodak.com (jcw)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 13:29:31 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <5hr338$8nn$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
References: <5hoqhd$9d4$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM> <5hqgej$lpc@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193797

Thanks for the responses so far.  To follow up:

What about a product like Waterlox?  Won't this provide a nice "hand-rubbed" 
look with some added protection from kitchen abuse such as water, oils & 
grease, etc?  I'm not too keen on applying a poly coat (eventhough I 
understand it may help minimize wood darkening due to UV exposure).

Jeff





From EmailTolbartel@veribest.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:00 EST 1997
Article: 193798 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33411182.691A@veribest.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:45:38 -0600
From: Les Bartel <EmailTolbartel@veribest.com>
Reply-To: EmailTolbartel@veribest.com
Organization: VeriBest, Inc.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (WinNT; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Vibration (Jet 14") and new question
References: <332FFE34.7410@qgraph.com> <5grm45$nma@pager.reyrey.com> <3332bf99.87304715@news.bright.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193798

All replies deleted, subject stands for itself.

I added levelling legs to my Jet 14".  That seems to help with vibration
a bit - it ensures that the saw is stable on my slightly uneven floor.

Now for another question:

Is it just me or are the guide blocks junk?  After only a little sawing
with my 1/4" blade, the upper blocks are worn quite badly, allowing the
blade to twist as I make a curved cut.  Trueing them up on my belt
sander helps until the wear again.  A 3/8 blade works better.  I've
built a roller bearing guide to replace the upper blocks.  I haven't
used it enough yet to know how well it will stand up.  When I took the
block holder off, I noticed that it might be bent - the line formed by
the casting molds was a bit crooked.  Is this correct or bent?

 - les

-- 

I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
mean.

My return mail address in the header is munged to prevent spammers
>from  getting my real address.

Les Bartel
lbartel@veribest.com
VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:13:01 EST 1997
Article: 193799 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sandpaper Types
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:31:40 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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We seem to have lots of FAQs but none on sandpaper, and I've seen many
posts on using particular kinds or grits of paper for a variety of
uses. However, I've not seen a single document anywhere that brings
together a compendium of info on this not-so-simple, but highly
essential "tool". I'd take a stab, but don't have access to the
reference materials from here in Hong Kong. Anyone interested in a
challenge?


From garrett@asianet.net.hk Wed Apr  2 12:13:02 EST 1997
Article: 193800 of rec.woodworking
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From: garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: (my) Planer Comparison Results, now the tough part: decide!
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:31:41 GMT
Organization: Resources Link Network Limited
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OK, several of us offered our opinions. Now, tell us what you bought
and how you like it.



From klb@ti.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:03 EST 1997
Article: 193801 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kurt Blank" <klb@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: willing to help a beginner?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 13:38:50 GMT
Organization: Information Technology Group, Texas Instruments
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Distribution: world
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M.
My suggestion would be:
1) find a place to look &, of course, buy WW magazines and or books.
2) Scan the internet.  
I truly believe that I currently have enough magazines with plans to keep
me woodworking for the rest of my life.  I'm sure I have many plans for
coffee tables in the magazines I've collected.  The magazines, also, have
basically taught me much of what I know about woodworking.  So, take some
time and investigate.  

M. Kluttz <mattscgi@bandwagon.net> wrote in article
<01bc3e60$a5625a00$963b81ce@stuartcngp>...
> 
> To the wise of woodworking-
> 
> I stumbled a cross this news group and realized that this was just what I
> was looking for.  I'm a beginner or shall we say very "green" when it
comes
> to building with wood.  However, I recently finished a few projects that
> were quite successful and a lot of relaxing fun.  Now I'd like to build a
> nice coffee table for my house but don't have enough knowledge or any
plans
> to get started.  Can anybody direct me on how I should get started. 
Maybe
> an easy plan for a table you could pass on?  I'd really appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> M. Kluttz (the rookie)
> 


From woodwork@ronan.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:04 EST 1997
Article: 193802 of rec.woodworking
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From: woodwork@ronan.net (Joe Johns)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: willing to help a beginner?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:52:23 GMT
Organization: Woodworking In Western Montana
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"M. Kluttz" <mattscgi@bandwagon.net> wrote:

>
>To the wise of woodworking-
>
>I stumbled a cross this news group and realized that this was just what I
>was looking for.  I'm a beginner or shall we say very "green" when it comes
>to building with wood.  However, I recently finished a few projects that
>were quite successful and a lot of relaxing fun.  Now I'd like to build a
>nice coffee table for my house but don't have enough knowledge or any plans
>to get started.  Can anybody direct me on how I should get started.  Maybe
>an easy plan for a table you could pass on?  I'd really appreciate it.

Yep, certainly.  Check out:  http://theoak.com/gary for plans galore.

Cheers,


Joe
Homepage:  http://www.ronan.net/~woodwork
Email:  woodwork@ronan.net
Known on IRC as "Woodchips"

---


From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:05 EST 1997
Article: 193803 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!ix.netcom.com!news
From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:04:12 GMT
Organization: Perfect Exposure Media Services
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <33411548.5999472@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
References: <3336AF9F.5EE4@pacbell.net>
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Constantines, eh?  They have a store in Manhattan?  I went by while
visiting.  There was one other customer, being helped in buying a single
handsaw by 3 sales people who were too busy with this to help me. If that
is the service in person, how well would mail order work?  TS
--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
--"There are no lies in chess"
--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
   Craig Sauls via n.g.


From water@tznet.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:06 EST 1997
Article: 193804 of rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 08:14:59 -0600
From: water@tznet.com (Tim Hoyman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Crown Molding on Table Saw
Message-ID: <water-0104970815010001@sl127.tznet.com>
References: <333EA251.5FA9@richmond.infi.net> <19970401025200.VAA20628@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193804

In article <19970401025200.VAA20628@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
chrish5064@aol.com (ChrisH5064) wrote:

> I would also like information on this topic.   Please e-mail me.
> 
> Chris

Chris and Original poster,

I have a book edited by Robert A. Yoder, called "Cabinetery - The
Woodworkers Guide to Building Professional-Looking Cabinets and Shelves". 
It is a very informative book that also includes a section on cutting
crown moulding on the TS.  The ISBN is: 0-87857-981-8 hardcover.

Good Luck,

Tim


From tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us Wed Apr  2 12:13:07 EST 1997
Article: 193805 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas G.Cavanagh" <tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:17:45 GMT
Organization: Sita Corp
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <01bc3ea6$f69e6440$735badc7@Desktop.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193805

It was in FWW, I don't remember which issue but it was very comprehensive
and was pretty strong for biscuit joined joints.  I use them whenever I can
based on that article. :-)

Hodcarry <hodcarry@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970401030400.WAA21511@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Sorry this is vague, but perhaps someone can fill in the details. Within
> the last couple of years one of the major woodworking mags. printed a
> article on the relative strength of biscuit, dowel and mortice joints.  
> 


From water@tznet.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:07 EST 1997
Article: 193806 of rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 08:22:09 -0600
From: water@tznet.com (Tim Hoyman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any Mobile Base Recommendations?
Message-ID: <water-0104970822090001@sl127.tznet.com>
References: <01bc38a8$e01895a0$f9d3399d@bugbash1.dns.microsoft.com> <5h750a$1dn@cronkite.cisco.com> <33401BDA.1CA7@capella.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193806

In article <33401BDA.1CA7@capella.com>, Brad Erickson <brad@capella.com> wrote:

> I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" fence. Need a mobile base.
> the Vega looks interesting??  does anyone have Recommendations???
> Thanks,
> Brad
> -- 

Brad,

I have a HTC base under my PM 66 that I really do not like all that much. 
It has casters at each corner, two that swivel and two that are fixed. 
The fixed casters have a bolt with a knob that can be tightened down to
stop the wheel from turning.  However, I have found that there is quite a
bit of play in the whole system, so my saw tends to move a bit.  A friend
has a Delta base under his Delta CS and it sits on the floor until you
step on a large lever, then it lifts up on to a swivel caster.  His is
much more stable.  I would check to see if the Jet will fit in the Delta
base.  Make sure you will have access to your DC outlet if you use the
Delta base.

Good luck,

Tim


From pbonnell@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:08 EST 1997
Article: 193807 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.fuse.net!not-for-mail
From: "Peter Bonnell" <pbonnell@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:11:33 GMT
Organization: Cincinnati Bell - Fuse Internet Access
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <01bc3ea7$53d41600$af9110d0@peter>
References: <5hoiah$puc$2@nw003.infi.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193807

I have a crapsman dovetail jig, and like everything I have bought from
them, am very unhappy with it.

pwcnva2 <pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net> wrote in article
<5hoiah$puc$2@nw003.infi.net>...
> There is a Craftsman dovetail jig that will do through dovetails and
costs 
> about $160.  Is anyone using it, using it and liking it, and could I have
a 
> review of its performance?
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad W.
> 


From pbonnell@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:09 EST 1997
Article: 193808 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.fuse.net!not-for-mail
From: "Peter Bonnell" <pbonnell@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad Programs Advice Needed!
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:03:58 GMT
Organization: Cincinnati Bell - Fuse Internet Access
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <01bc3ea6$445bee60$af9110d0@peter>
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I have used TurboCad from a company called IMSI for a couple of years now.
It is easy to use an contains many features of high end (and expensive) cad
programs. I got my copy for $89 which includes a 3-D modeler and have been
very happy with it. You can find it at most major software dealers. The
only down side is that the manuals could be a little more complete. Thier
Web sight http://www.imsisoft.com used to contain a evaluation copy for
download so you could give it a try.



I use Visio. OK, it's not really a CAD program, but it is very easy to use,
does autodimensioning, and can be set to work in 100ths of an inch. There
are several versions of this package out there, but I only have experience
with 3.0.
-- 
It takes a big dog to weigh a ton.

Bill Davis Jr. <billd@ssnet.com> wrote in article
<333d2cbd.13527819@news.ravenet.com>...
> All,
> 	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
> 
> Any advice would be helpful
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bill D
> billd@ssnet.com
> 
> 




From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:10 EST 1997
Article: 193809 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeeds.sol.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:21:48 GMT
Organization: Perfect Exposure Media Services
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <334117c2.6632955@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
References: <01bc3a4e$51871a80$5b3cf3cd@oxford.megalink.net> <333A438B.3065@rt66.com> <5hf8c4$16n$1@juliana.sprynet.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193809

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:57:19 GMT "tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)" posted to
"rec.woodworking" on the subject "Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood" :

You may be in love mdf, but should realise that unless you're using medite
or some other reduced formaldehyde material you are installing a known
carcinogen.  The urea formaldehyde that typically composes ~%50 of the
actual material does not fully cure, (versus phenol formaldehyde resin
which comes much closer to a full cure), and the material will give off
formaldehyde in significant and dangerous quantities for at least 5 to 10
years.  Say what you want, but personally I don't want to install a cancer
causing material in the microenvironment of my house!  If it doesn't matter
to you, tho, I have heard that carbon tetrachloride is a GREAT cleaner, and
Tertiary butyl amine borane is reputed to be quite tasty.  I recommend
hardwood plywood over mdf or other particle type boards any day.  Less
resin, and more stability when exposed to moisture.  Doh, have you ever
seen a particle product that didn't fall apart on exposure to moisture?
Excepting of course Marine grade mat, which would probably be too expensive
to use for regular cabinets.    Enjoy, TS

-->>Hi Bill,
-->>For kitchen cabinet grade stuff, I doubt anyone is using hardwood
-->>because, as you mentioned the expense would be too great, and the labor
-->>would be prohibitive.  
-->
-->>As far as the other reasons, plywood and other sheet goods are more
-->>stable, more uniform, and make better substrates for things like
counter
-->>tops.  I guess the other thing that comes to mind is that the carcasses
-->>are mostly hidden behind doors and drawers, so it seems like an awful
-->>waste of precious hardwoods.  Kind of like framing your house in
walnut,
-->>nice to know you used good stuff, but what's the point if fir works
just
-->>as well, and no one will ever see it?
-->>-Colin
-->
-->
-->As a side note to this, I've heard guys talk about how crummy it is to
-->use particle board as a substrate for laminate countertops and how
-->they "do it right" and use ACX ply....harharhar.   Laminate
-->manufacturer's recommend particle board (the good stuff, not "big
-->flake" stuff)  under their products.  A rep once showed me a graph of
-->how particle board reacts to moisture and temp changes overlayed with
-->the same info for p-lam, they were very close.  Material moves
-->together, less problems down the road.  Right material for the job,
-->less problems for the customer who paid to have it done right.
-->Composite materials may not have the appeal of solid wood but I use
-->them whenever called for and save the solids for furniture.
-->
-->Tim
-->



From manhart@bio.tamu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:11 EST 1997
Article: 193810 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!manhart-quadra660.tamu.edu!user
From: manhart@bio.tamu.edu (Jim Manhart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Recommendations ($600 budget)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 08:23:35 -0600
Organization: Dept. Biology, Texas A&M University
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <manhart-0104970823350001@manhart-quadra660.tamu.edu>
References: <3340401c.1940006@news.mindspring.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193810

In article <3340401c.1940006@news.mindspring.com>, danckert@mindspring.com
wrote:

> I am interested in finding out what some of the best quality
> contractor style table saws are in the $400-$600 price range. I have
> not seen any comparison articles or reviews lately and would
> appreciate hearing from some of you who have saws in that price range.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Mike Danckert

Fine Woodworking has a review article of contractor saws in the April
issue.  They favored the Jet but read the review and decide for yourself.


From tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us Wed Apr  2 12:13:12 EST 1997
Article: 193811 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!europa.clark.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!ais.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.171.6.16!li.net!usenet
From: "Thomas G.Cavanagh" <tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help selecting a planer
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:29:36 GMT
Organization: Sita Corp
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <01bc3ea8$9ed7c560$735badc7@Desktop.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193811

How about Sunhill's 15" planer, made by Geetech in Taiwan.  Bought mine two
years ago for $799.00 plus $89.00 shipping from Washington to East Coast.
Heavyweight, 450#.  Well made 220 VAC.  Had a snipe problem that was
resolved by setting table rollers absolutely flush with table. Two
speeds,chain drive cutter and dust collector chute included.  Only drawback
is the table adjusts and not the cutter head.  Mine is setup on wheels
anyway and I use adjustable roller infeeds and outfeeds.  Works for me, see
what everybody else thinks.:-)

Mark Lewus <mlewus@planet.net> wrote in article
<5hplav$npd@jupiter.planet.net>...
> I am looking for a planer for use in my basement shop. I want to use
> it to surface rough and resawn lumber rather than buyng it dimensioned
> and surfaced from folks like Croffwood Mills. There seem to be a bunch
> of machines in the 12" 'portable' category, all in the $300-500 range,
> and then another group of 15" machines in the $1200-$1600 range. 
> 
> I will be planing fairly narrow stock, maybe 3-9", and prabably
> nothing thicker than 8/4 (and not much of that). The planer will
> mostly be used to dimension 4/4 lumber to 3/4" and also to dimension
> lumber to 1/2" for cabinet panels and drawer stock .  
> 
> My question is, beside the obvious difference in max stock width and
> power, will the 12" machines produce as clean a surface as the larger
> machines? Do the larger machines produce less snipe, or will they
> handle thinner stock?
> 
> Any suggestions as to brand / model?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Mark Lewus
> mlewus@planet.net
> 
> 


From altavo19@mail.idt.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:13 EST 1997
Article: 193812 of rec.woodworking
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From: altavoz <altavo19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,iu.classified,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: Hitachi G12SA 4.5" Disc Grinder
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:33:27 -0800
Organization: IDT
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <33412AC7.2C31@mail.idt.net>
References: <5hna5v$is5@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193812 rec.crafts.metalworking:59142

pbsmith@indiana.edu (pbsmith)

I bought this grinder two weeks ago and used it for several days
refinishing a floor.  I paid $90.  I would like to sell it for $50 + UPS
shipping. It's built like a rock.

Brad Smith
pbsmith@indiana.edu



altavoz: I've been posting on the Hit' 4.5" grinder for many
weeks in several NG's . It has a 628 metric bearing on the
load side of the motor . This BB is not big enough for the
job . I was looking for a 4.5" grinder and did a study and
found some real surprizes .
  The Makita 4" uses a 6000 BB which has the same load rating
and it craps out frequently when we use 4.5" discs on it .
  These BB have the same load rating and the only diff is
the 628 has a 9MM bore , the 6000 has a 10 MM bore .
  I do not recommend buying a HIT' 4 1/5" gndr .


From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:14 EST 1997
Article: 193813 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shielded Bearings
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:32:14 GMT
Organization: Perfect Exposure Media Services
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <33411b5e.7557085@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
References: <5he9pa$1j9s$1@ausnews.austin.ibm.com> <333B1604.F27@worldnet.att.net> <5hou5o$h00@camel0.mindspring.com>
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On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:12:34 GMT "mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John
Hide)" posted to "rec.woodworking" on the subject "Re: Shielded Bearings" :

All touching moving parts benefit from lubrication.  Roller bearings do
have more resistance to movement when lubricated than a brand new bearing
would have at first if used unlubed (dry)due to the tight physical
tolerance of its construction but:  running the bearing dry will quickly
wear it and those tolerances will not be tight for long!  Lubrication costs
less in terms of extra energy than the dollar cost of replacement bearings.
TS

-->I had allways heard that the grease/oil in ball or roller bearings
-->actually serves the purpose of preventing oxidation /rust .The reason
-->being that Ball /roller bearings have a very low running friction and
-->the so called Lubricant actually increases the torque to run the
-->bearing ,Of course the same is not true for plain bearings as they in
-->most cases run on a thin film of oil .
-->          mjh
-->

--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
--"There are no lies in chess"
--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
   Craig Sauls via n.g.


From jrr@velocity.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:15 EST 1997
Article: 193814 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Jack Rinderle" <jrr@velocity.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:40:56 GMT
Organization: Rinderle Associates
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <01bc3eaa$884f6bc0$7b93ced0@rinderle>
References: <19970327023000.VAA04067@ladder01.news.aol.com> <333A87D0.3F71@lucent.com> <E7pLKw.vq@perkin-elmer.com> <333e2e4c.32561509@news.mindspring.com> <5hptod$76g$1@juliana.sprynet.com>
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Ron Lane <rl7329@m7.sprynet.com> wrote in article
<5hptod$76g$1@juliana.sprynet.com>...
> For the last couple of years, our company has sponsored a Pinewood
> Derby race and called it a 'team-building' exercise. This lets all of
> those frustrated dads build the cars they actually wanted without
> guilt.
> 
> 
>
> 
>
> 
> We have built pine wood derby cars for years. One good tip is to slightly
bend one axle up so one of the front wheels does not touch. Car will run
faster. Another tip, turn the wheels on a mandrel so they only contact in a
narrow strip in the middle( turning to a vee contour is really the best but
i'm not sure what your rules say.)

There is a company that sells turned wheels, speed axels and special
bodies. Their catalog has how to instructions.

Hodges Hobby House Catalog is free tel. (818) 845-6123 Have fun


From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:16 EST 1997
Article: 193815 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spam does hurt us (Was Re: Nailing Spamers)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:52:38 GMT
Organization: Perfect Exposure Media Services
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I am a large fellow.  I am generally gentle and considerate, definitely law
abiding.  If I ever met a spammer in person, I would do my best to pummel
that person into the ground.  Assault, regardless of personal risk.  Can
you tell that my feelings are pretty strong on this matter?  Advertising is
pollution.  We all have enough crap.  If an advertiser uses saturation
tactics to improve sales it is almost a given that people really don't want
that product.  If the product is truly desirable then people will buy it,
regardless of the amount of advertising.  Ad's are used to convince, not
illuminate.  The stronger the ad campaign, the stronger my personal boycott
of that manufacturer's whole product line.  I wish we all felt this way,
and acted in accordance, as well as being vocal about it.   Baah-baah said
the sheep as he drove to McDonalds for nutritionless food in his Mexican
Chevrolet!  TS

Post Script:  oh the irony:  the greatest portion of spam I receive is for
Email spammer software...go figure!
--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
--"There are no lies in chess"
--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
   Craig Sauls via n.g.


From nitchwick@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:16 EST 1997
Article: 193816 of rec.woodworking
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From: nitchwick@aol.com (Nitchwick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Stickley furniture care?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:04:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I need to clean or polish a Gus Stickley dresser but I don't want to do
anything to damage it.  It has a fumed finish.  Does anyone have advice on
what I can do or what I should avoid?  

Mary Kay


From dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:17 EST 1997
Article: 193817 of rec.woodworking
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From: dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu (Darren Scott Cobb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:07:24 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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Message-ID: <5hr8bc$e8c@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu>
References: <3340A667.232F@microm.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193817

In article <3340A667.232F@microm.com>, Troy Past  <troy@microm.com> wrote:
>Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
>budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
>can't use very much.  I was considering the Delta Desktop Joiner.

In my opinion, the best jointer for a workshop on a budget is
to use the router that you (should) already have.  There was
a discussion about it here on rec.ww a few weeks ago, which 
should be retrievable through DejaNews.

Darren Scott Cobb                  __  .    __    .      _/|__    ,
Indiana University               }<_;>  . }<_;>  .     /`o _  `\_/ 
dascobb@indiana.edu                            __  .   >,_____,/^\ 
http://ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu/~dascobb/      }<_;>        \|      `


From gvaughn@jeffco.k12.co.us Wed Apr  2 12:13:18 EST 1997
Article: 193818 of rec.woodworking
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From: "G. Vaughn" <gvaughn@jeffco.k12.co.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 07:40:38 -0700
Organization: Jefferson County School District
Lines: 44
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One of my three 9.6V Makita batteries displays similar behaviour.  This 
topic of NiCad "memory" was the subject of a long thread a couple of 
months ago.  Most replys seemed to support this.

I went to the Makita Service Center here in Denver a few months ago to 
get a replacement part for one of my tools and picked up a handout (copy 
>from  service manuals ?) which disputes this.  Makita claims that 
properly designed battery packs do not display this "Voltage 
Depression".  The handout is long and quite detailed, but some of the 
points that it contains are:

Do not condition a battery by deep discharge -- it could cause cell 
reversal (what ever that is).
Recharge a battery when there is a drop off in torgue, do not let it 
completly discharge.
Let the battery cool to room temperature before recharging, a warm 
battery will trigger the thermal cut-off switch, preventing a full 
charge.
Avoid recharging a battery that is full charged.

I have followed these guidelines and my battery packs seem to work well, 
but one (old one) still doesn't last long.  

Ken Vaughn

Steve Swihart wrote:
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
> years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
> charge they take doesn't last very long.
> 
> I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
> time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
> does.  Is this true?
> 
> FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
> charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
> they're home tools.
> 
> TIA.
> 
> -Steve


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:19 EST 1997
Article: 193819 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:49:26 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <5hr79m$97d@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>
References: <01bc39f6$3fb50fe0$4fb107c4@jarwoods.iafrica.com> <01bc3e67$0404ac60$c89e09ce@horizons>
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In article <01bc3e67$0404ac60$c89e09ce@horizons>, jhparkhill@sihope.com says...
>
>
>Frankly, once you hit the PC/Bosch/DeWalt level you're looking at a good
>machine regardless. Most of the stuff ends up being subjective. I'm sure
>many will tell you their 1613 works perfectly in every way, or that you'd
>be an idiot for not considering the 69x the "best". Whatever. PC's
>following stems from a long history with construction use as well, but it's
>the only router I've had where a bearing has failed.. so what does that
>mean ? I hardly subject any of my routers to arduous, daily use.
>
>Of the three bench routers I have (PC 69x, Bosch 1613EVS, DeWalt 621) I
>find myself reaching for the 621 more often than any other. I like the
>ergonomics, but you might hate them. Also the 621 does not yet have a
>factory supplied edge guide so the 1613 still gets called. Rarely, rarely
>do I ever reach for the PC.
>

Good points, John.  My 690 had a bearing problem as well.  I don't think
it actually means anything, since PC doesn't manufacture bearings, and
it was not some cheap, no-name bearing.  They obviously just got a bad
lot from the bearing mfr.  I sent the 690 to PC and they had it rebuilt and
returned to me within a week, and there hasn't been a problem with it
since (5+ years).  I have to admit that I like the idea of the interchangeable
PC bases -- I have one conventional base as well as the plunge base for
the 690.  But changing between them is not the simplest task.  It's not
something I do without reconsidering whether I really want to do it, though
it's great to be able to.

My favorite router is still a very old flea market Stanley 1.5 hp.
Go Figure.

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:20 EST 1997
Article: 193820 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jack Juhola <JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stickley furniture care?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 08:12:30 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <334133EE.216D@worldnet.att.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193820

For the best advice, I'd contact the Stickley Co. directly. They could
give you the information you need cuz they know how the pieces (old or
new) were finished.  You can check out their web site at
www.stickley.com, or call them at 315.682.5500.


From r.f.berry@larc.nasa.gov Wed Apr  2 12:13:20 EST 1997
Article: 193821 of rec.woodworking
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From: r.f.berry@larc.nasa.gov (Bob Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dust Collection Tablesaw- Update
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 15:12:56 GMT
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1


From au455@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:21 EST 1997
Article: 193822 of rec.woodworking
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From: au455@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Douglas S. Caprette)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice on wiring a woodshop
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:07:44 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Lines: 33
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References: <332CC18E.2B6@truman.edu> <5gkjhn$71h$2@msunews.cl.msu.edu> <3332BB83.26DB@hpwarhj.an.hp.com>
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In a previous article, dave-b@hpwarhj.an.hp.com (David Burton) says:

>Jerry Davis wrote:
>> 
>> In article <332CC18E.2B6@truman.edu>, Rob Tigner <rtigner@truman.edu> says:
>> >...
>> >I am getting ready to call an electrician to wire the place.  This
>> >includes adding light fixtures. Is there any advice you can offer on
>> >...
>> 
>> 1.  Use 20 amp circuts, plugs and 12 G wire.
>> 
>> 2.  Have at least one 220 plug.
>> 
>
>	Wire the 220 V plug wire 4 wire connection.  That way
>	you can get a 120V outlet on your table saw for routers,
>	ect.
>


Just in case you haven't thought of this already it's a good idea to
keep the lighting fixtures and the power tools on seperate circuits.


That way when you stall a tool and throw the circuit breaker you won't
find yourself standing in the dark.

-- 
DS Caprette
"There's a little truth in all jive, and a little jive in all truth."
                                  -- Leonard Q. Barnes


From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:22 EST 1997
Article: 193823 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Uncle Sam says no more Mahogany ?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 15:10:48 GMT
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On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:43:31 +0000 "Andrew Scott Beals
<bandy@spambgone.org>" posted to "rec.woodworking" on the subject "Re:
Uncle Sam says no more Mahogany ?" :


-->
-->Hey, gotta have toilet paper and paper for books.
-->
-->Can't grow Hemp: too damn profitable and *bad* for the drug companies
-->and dow chemical!
-->
-->How many people would need Prozac if they could just smoke a spleef or
-->eat a brownie made out of a weed that grows in all 51 states [Hi to all
-->my relatives and in-laws in the Great White North] to relax now and
-->then?
-->
-->How in the world could we support our Prison Industry if we dropped all
-->of the laws about victimless "crimes"?
-->
-

Sorry, you have it all wrong about the reason hemp is illegal:  the USA has
banned its use, production and importation due to the pressing need to
support criminals in Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia, Peru and Mexico.  Without
our drug laws, they would be out of business.  These criminals are the
worst kind of filth:  repressing their own people as they accumulate GIANT
sums used for personal enhancement only. they corrupt their own countries
and ours as well.  Making sure that the Illegal drug business is profitable
to these "heros" is a matter of top priority to the government and people
of the United States.  After all, if marijuana were legalized, within 6
seconds every kid from 3 years old up would instantly be a crack addict!
TS

Post Script:  hemp's ancilliary uses as a substitute for beleaguered
forest's products would be counter profitable for the criminals in the US's
forest products industry, as well as to manufacturers of inferior cotton
products.
--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
--"There are no lies in chess"
--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
   Craig Sauls via n.g.


From udgreynolds@cc.memphis.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:23 EST 1997
Article: 193824 of rec.woodworking
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From: udgreynolds@cc.memphis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Diamond Wood (Dymond Wood?)
Date: 1 Apr 97 09:04:59 -0500
Organization: The University of Memphis
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Does anybody have any iformation on working with a product called Dymond
(Diamond?) Wood. I know it's no longer true wood as it is plastic injected and
dyed. I've seen it used for knife handles and wood grips, due to the fact
thatit won't crack or split. How do you finish it? Any suppliers for
substantial lenths? I'd like to make a hiking staff out of it.

Thanks for any info...

Devin


From rywoodview@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:24 EST 1997
Article: 193825 of rec.woodworking
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From: rywoodview@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS sliding table
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:20:46 GMT
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In article <19970328133301.IAA22058@ladder01.news.aol.com> [Date: 28 Mar 1997 13:33:45 GMT], I wrote:

>>Has anyone used the Sears sliding table on their
>>tablesaw?
>
>>Just looking at one poorly installed floor sample, it looks a bit flimsy,
>>but maybe it works well when installed with care oneself.  It is just
>>$150, so much less than the Delta, etc., competition.

In article <haubert.227.002BD15B@mbi.org>, haubert@mbi.org writes:
>That's still about $145 more than a cutoff jig made from scraps, and it's 
>probably less accurate.  
>
>Rich
>Just say I've never understood why people pay big bucks for these things.
>
>And also just say why is it that people feel the need to end all their posts 
>with these absurdly-long signatures?  It must be the trite, self-important 
>sayings, I guess:
>
>This one's 16 lines of drivel:
>
>
>>        To live to see the great day that dawns
>>             And the light that fills the world."
>>                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
>>+                                 +                                   + 
>
>>+                                 +                                   +
>>   Robert B. Young, MD            'Woodview'
>>  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
>>                         (716) 442-7830
>>+                                 +                                   +
>
>>   " . . . there is only one great thing,
>>                The only thing,
>>           To live to see the great day that dawns
>>                And the light that fills the world."
>>                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
>>+                                 +                                   + 

Rich,

I've really appreciated a lot of your posts, but felt a bit hurt at your unkind attitude this time.  We are mostly on rec.ww (or the OldTools list, or anywhere else on the Net) wanting to help,
seeking good advice, and sharing what we can.
 
I haven't even found the need for a cutoff table yet, but I'd posted this a while back when people were discussing the Delta vs. Excalibur sliding tables.  Didn't get any opinions then, so I just
reposted it.  I'm afraid that in the process of copying my file, I accidentally doubled my sig.  It's just a saying that holds a lot of meaning for me, and may or may not for whoever else notices it.
 It probably fits better on rec.backcountry, which I also follow closely.

But it isn't trite drivel, and I sure don't feel self-important.  Sorry for the extra bandwidth accidentally used, though, especially if you have to pay by the amount you receive.

Best regards,

                     Robb

Just say (TM) -- Point of the question is that an accurate sliding table is worth more than a cut-off jig, enabling any angle to be cross-cut in long stock.  I don't have $400 or more to spend for an
upscale one, but $150 for a serviceable unit might be worthwhile.  Didn't receive any opinions the first time I asked, about a month ago, so maybe nobody has any experience with this version.
     But ,,, I always value input from friends and colleagues here in rec.ww.

[See sig. above.]


+                                 +                                   +
   Robert B. Young, MD            'Woodview'
  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
                         (716) 442-7830
+                                 +                                   +      
   " . . . there is only one great thing,
                The only thing,
           To live to see the great day that dawns
                And the light that fills the world."
                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
+                                 +                                   +                                


From proybal@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:25 EST 1997
Article: 193826 of rec.woodworking
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From: Philip Roybal <proybal@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laminating question
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:41:46 -0800
Organization: Roybal Associates
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On Mon, 24 Mar 1997 23:45:42 -0800, amo1@post1.com wrote:
> 
> >I'm building an arched lattice entryway to a garden and I thought the
> >best way to get the arch on top would be to laminate some wood together
> >then trim the edges for the semicircle. I've never laminated anything
> >before and hope someone can tell me what kind of glue to use and how to
> >clamp it. Would regular pipe clamps work? I'll be using just plain old
> >Doug Fir since it's an outside structure and will be painted anyway.


I've had good luck with Weldwood plastic resin glue, which is a powder
you mix with water. It has a long open joint time, so you don't have the
same panic clamping you do with yellow glue. 

For clamping, remember that the clamp force must always be normal
(perpendicular) to the joint, or you'll just slide the wood around. For
an arch, that means you may have to secure temporary clamp blocks to the
structure. I'd try a band clamp around the curved section, butting the
ends of the curve against a straight 2x4. That way you'll get relatively
even pressure around the assembly. If need be, you can use the band
clamp to hold things in place while you install further clamps across
the laminations at spots that aren't getting enough pressure.

Phil




From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:25 EST 1997
Article: 193827 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:06:32 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca>, geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca says...
>
>We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
>replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
>Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gene

I can't believe I'm reduced to this.

How about hooking up with the 'doghouse' thread?  I think
an outhouse is basically a tall dog house with a hole in
the floor.

Oh, yeah, you'll need a few sharpened sticks for your outhouse,
too.

Let's see, now... for the hole, you'll need a shovel.  Root around
until you find some scrap iron, or better yet bronze.   Then build
a really big fire and smelt your scrap into a flat pig.  Find a big
rock and pound the pig into a flat blade.  Voila!  Half of a shovel.
When you finish this step, get back to me and we'll work on the
handle...

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:26 EST 1997
Article: 193828 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need drill press advice
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 15:28:11 GMT
Organization: Perfect Exposure Media Services
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On 28 Mar 1997 22:34:25 GMT "awrobinson@aol.com (Awrobinson)" posted to
"rec.woodworking" on the subject "Need drill press advice" :

Someone's .sig in this very n.g. to the effect of:  buy quality and wince
once, don't and wince all the time.  Get a 14" minimum throat (7"
clearance) for other than model making.  I have the 14" delta and it is
good and powerful but has unacceptable side play in the bearings/guides,
and have I mentioned the wobbly pulleys and bad Morris Taper?, As far as
true precision work.  My machinist pal dis recommends the whole product
line.  If highest precision is not required, they have a fairly good price
to quality ratio.  I would look at the tilt/sliding head bench models, if
you must have a bench press.  Frankly, I have not had much use for the
vertical capacity of my floor model, and this could be well acheived with a
bench model by mounting it high and square to the floor for such special
use.  A pain, but possible.  I have never regretted buying quality
products, nor paying more for extra capacity:  I wish now that I had gotten
an 8" jointer, a 12" table saw, a Corvette.....  <G>  TS

"There are no lies in chess"  Smith
--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
--"There are no lies in chess"
--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
   Craig Sauls via n.g.


From dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:27 EST 1997
Article: 193829 of rec.woodworking
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From: dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu (Darren Scott Cobb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Darkening cherry with lye
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:33:15 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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I'm considering this technique for a piece I'm currently
building.  I've tested it on scraps, and I really like the
results.  I put on gloves and applied a water & lye mixture.
Varying the lye concentration varied the darkening.  The 
figure does not seem to be hindered or hidden in any way.

My problem is:  I'm hesitant to apply this much water to
my finished piece of furniture (It's a buffet).  The mixture
is probably 95% water.  Am I asking for trouble with warping,
expansion, etc.?

A related question:  Could I use mineral spirits as the
solvent?  Lye is scary enough by itself, and I'm concerned
about possible chemical reactions.  I don't want to snuff
out my entire condo complex.

I'm open to any suggestions, even of the "Don't commit
such a grievous offense against cherry!" type.

(BTW, I posted on this earlier, and got zero responses.
Either no one was interested, or the post disappeared.
Anyway, I apologize if this is a duplication.)

Thanks in advance,

Darren Scott Cobb                  __  .    __    .      _/|__    ,
Indiana University               }<_;>  . }<_;>  .     /`o _  `\_/ 
dascobb@indiana.edu                            __  .   >,_____,/^\ 
http://ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu/~dascobb/      }<_;>        \|      `


From lturner@infoaccess.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:28 EST 1997
Article: 193830 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Lee Turner" <lturner@infoaccess.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for a good price on Emglo AM78-HC4V
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:24:11 GMT
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I'm look for a good price on Emglo AM78-HC4V.  The best I have found is
$309.00 with free freight.  Has any one else seen a better price? If so
where.

LTurner
LTurner@infoaccess.com


From d89con3@austin.ibm.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:29 EST 1997
Article: 193831 of rec.woodworking
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From: d89con3@austin.ibm.com (Greg Vrana)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Delta Planer Available
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:23:30 GMT
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A number of us on this ng have been wondering when the new
Delta planer (model '560?) would be available.  I just received
the latest issue (June) of Wood Magazine and there's an ad
for the new planer in it.  (Along with Norm's smilin' face. :)
I take this to mean it's available--haven't tried to purchase
one yet.

-- 

Greg Vrana
d89con3@austin.ibm.com


From rtb@odsunb.ih.att.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:30 EST 1997
Article: 193832 of rec.woodworking
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From: rtb@odsunb.ih.att.com (BRADSTRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: teak
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:14:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T
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In article <01bc3ae5$18ef77c0$4ea903c4@dundonal.global.co.za>,
AD <dundonal@global.co.za> wrote:
>
>Better still, re-surface the whole table while you're about it and apply a
>"bleached-mark resistant" POLYURETHANE sealer, and you won't even have to
>worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.
>

Not on teak !!! Teak is too "oily" for a polyurethane finish.

Todd Bradstrum



From tucker21@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:30 EST 1997
Article: 193833 of rec.woodworking
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From: tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is a safe finish for a baby cradle?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:39:10 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I  recently built a cradle out of hickory and used Behems Salad bowl
finish.

I figured if you could put food in it and it was fda approved it had to be
safe.  let me know what you end up using



From agbob@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:31 EST 1997
Article: 193834 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Robert J. Daun" <agbob@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Linden Wood?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:36:04 GMT
Organization: RJD Associates
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Depends on the type of Linden.  The large leaf Linden is another name for
Basswood.  Great for Carving.  There is a small leaf Linden which has
become very popular for street plantings in commercial areas of a city as
they have good resistance to the abuses of heavy traffic and will grow in
quite compacted soil.  I'm sure there are many more varieties of Linden
both in the US and other countries (especially European countries.

Patrick S. <##wood@smart.net##> wrote in article
<334043d5.2039265@news.smart.net>...
> 
> 
> 	Friend has a Lindon tree in his yard coming down.  Base girth is
> ~30 inches.  Asked me what good it is cut up, I said I Dunno.  Anybody
> have an idea?



From reddevil@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:32 EST 1997
Article: 193835 of rec.woodworking
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From: *~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 15:40:31 GMT
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I'll put in my vote for "DeltaCad".  I haven't tried Turbo cad, it does
sound good.  My problem with many of the programs I have tried, especially
anything from AutoDesk is the high price, long learning curve, abstruse
help, when it is even available, and general difficulty in use.  It is
great to have a program that can do almost anything, but not if you have to
dedicate yourself to mastering the software, exclusive of accomplishing a
relatively simple drawing.  I like the simple powerful interface of
DeltaCad.  Using for about 3 hours I was able to complete a kitchen plan, 4
elevations, and skeleton views of the cabinets in all drawings, with
labels, notes, dimensions, etc.  I have not been successful in doing this
with any other proggy!  Don't get me wrong here tho, the help file is
fairly abstruse and it has a moderately limited feature set in ver. 2.1.
OTOH, it was available as shareware, prolly still is, and you can try
before you buy.  Also, I would suspect that TurboCad has many more
features, and prolly a greater existing market base.... TS


From Codmaps@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:13:33 EST 1997
Article: 193836 of rec.woodworking
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Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <970401102400_955216144@emout04.mail.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:24:01 -0500
Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Jerry Christensen <Codmaps@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: HELP ME UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE
Lines: 10
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193836

My instructions say....you may leave the list at any time by sending
a"SIGNOFF WOODWORK"  command to LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
whether this command goes in the body of the letter or in the subject, I do
not know.....I also had problems thru listserv with another mailing list
......finally changed my screen name....and I followed all the instructions
also..  hope this helps

oh yea...to the cretin who could not give a courteous answer to the question
that was asked....but rather made some jerkoff remark about mason jars and
"newbies  gotta love em" .....go to the bank....deposit an atm card(if you
know how to use one) withdraw enough cash to BUY A CLUE.....


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:34 EST 1997
Article: 193837 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: alt.hvac,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Furnace Filter dust filtration efficiency - info.
Message-ID: <33413055.1B82@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:57:09 -0600
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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I am building a fine dust collector for my woodworking shop.  I plan to
use an old furnace blower and I need to select an appropriate filter
system to filter the fine dust particles out of the air.

I would plan to use a prefilter (Normal furnace filter) and I am
wondering if someone knows to what level of filtration a basic pleated
replacement filter provides. 

I went to the local building supply store and found the basic pleated
filters and then I also looked at Glasfloss's line, Auer line and
Honeywell of the wider/thicker pleated filters, but I could not find any
information on their efficiency or what level of microns they filter
down to.

The Glasfloss line says they are for every application requiring medium
ASHRAE efficiency.  Sorry, but that told me nothing.   Any help there?


Any idea where I can get more info or a suggestion on a filter?

thanks
Damian Drewek
ddrewek@qgraph.com



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:13:34 EST 1997
Article: 193838 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:57:55 UNDEFINED
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In article <5hpgsv$e3r@camel1.mindspring.com> mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide) writes:
>From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
>Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
>Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:32:10 GMT

>haubert@mbi.org wrote:


>;and most of CA qualify as such.   In a true four season state, it's a

>;different story.

>;Rich
>If they play baseball in the snow I suppose that is then considered a
>4 season state?


Yeah, something like that!

Rich



From JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:35 EST 1997
Article: 193839 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jack Juhola <JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:04:31 -0800
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Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
> hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
> they of any benefit?
> 

I've had great success sharpening plane irons and chisels using a system
I got from Woodsmith Shop (the Woodsmith magazine folks in Des Moines --
www.augusthome.com). Their kit includes a combo 1000-6000 waterstone, a
flat steel plate, some 220 grit silicon carbide powder, and an angle
guide (which I tossed...IMO, the Veritas unit is much better). The kit's
a little pricey -- about $75 or so -- but comes with outstanding
instructions. Even a klutz such as I can follow them and get really,
REALLY sharp tools.  As the veggie cutter salesman says, "Slices a
tomato so thin, it only has one side!"

Jack J.


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:36 EST 1997
Article: 193840 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue for Veneering?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:59:20 GMT
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Liquid hide glue has gel depressant chemicals added that slow the
jelling properties of hot hide glue .  This keeps it liquid at room
temperature.  As the water evaporates from the liquid hide and the
glue dries, the action of the gel depressant is eliminated and the
properties of the glue return (gelling and tacking).  It does not have
the same quick tacking characteristics as hot hide glue since the hot
hide glue tack and gelling is a function of cooling first and
evaporation of water second.  There are fast and slow settign liquid
hide glues available to industry but I have not tried to find them.
Seems that we get whatever Franklin wants to sell us and to be
perfectly honest I use little liquid hide glue.  With hot hide glues
(ground hide glue), we can buy different gram strengths if needed (251
gram strength is generally used for woodworking).

When using hot hide glue it is possible, and advantageous, to use a
rubbed joint.  This is a handy way to put glue blocks in place.  With
hot hide glue you just apply the glue to the block, put it where you
need it, and rub it back and forth once or twice.  As the glue cools
it sticks, no clamping.  Can't do this with liquid hide as conviently.

Another  example, if I were to veneer a night stand size top, I would
not use liquid hide glue for several reasons.  One is that I would
have to work the glue longer with the hammer (veneer hammer or wood
block for smoothing) and probably even have to clamp the veneer in
place.  I have used liquid hide glue for certain situations, one being
to reglue small areas that were originally glued with hide glue, but
in those situations I heat the liquid hide glue before application in
order for it to reactivate the old hide glue that is already there.
This works well for gluing old chairs that were originally done with
hide.  I do this if the application of warm water did not restick the
loose area.  

In using hot hide glue, say, on new work, one of the super
characteristics is that as it cools below 95 degrees it begins to grab
and stick (gel an tack) as mentioned with the rubbed glue blocks
example.  Besides, if you buy good quality hide, or animal glue it
gives your shop the aroma it should have.

Again using the example of the night stand top to be veneered;  I
spread the hot glue on the top of the stand (working in a warm room or
having a hair dryer handy helps allieviate anxiety) then place the
veneer on the top which has the glue spread.  Working from the center
out I use a block of maplewood shaped like a rocker on the bottom and
flat on top, about 3" x 5" and about 1 1/2" thick at the thickest
part, to rub the veneer flat.  As I work this I usually have to put
the hair dryer to it to keep it warm and workable.  More skillful
folks probably do not have to do this.  I have, on large tops (4' x
4') had to use an iron.  It is easy for me to use to much glue and
have a lot of excess running down the sides, but that is just my fear
of having a glue starved area.  It is very easy to clean up hide glue,
a little warm water does it and even if there is a bit left somewhere
it isn't noticable when you finish the piece.

I think that as one gets used to using hot hide glue, more and more of
the benefits come to light.  Yes, it is a bit more troublesome at the
outset, but the long term benefits and absence of botched veneering
jobs far out weighs the set up and heating time.  

I shutter to recall in earlier years using contact cement to attach
veneer, only to have a bubble appear on the surface, usually after the
finish was applied.  Can't fix that.  And hopefully I never have to
re-repair the few roll top desk curtains I used contact cement or
yellow glue to attach the canvas to the slats.  

Glued joints will fail, and when they do, I want to be able to repair
them again without having to destroy the piece.

==========================================================
 



On 28 Mar 1997 14:34:39 GMT, rbowles96@aol.com wrote:

>In article <333ab38f.31977829@news.gulf.net>, bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein) writes:
>
>>
>>
>>Wood shed in Buffalo, NY is a good source.
>>
>>Use only hot hide glue for veneering.
>>
>>
>
>Bob, can you amplify of the differences and characteristics between hot and liquid hide glue?  Seems like it would be of benefit to a bunch.  TIA.



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From samrocky@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:37 EST 1997
Article: 193841 of rec.woodworking
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From: samrocky@aol.com (Samrocky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:11:07 GMT
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Some time ago I read that Norm got his start in a very honest manner.  He
was working as a contractor, putting on an addition to a house, when a
friend of the owner came by.  This friend happened to be Morasch, who just
happened to be in need of a contractor/carpenter for his new show "This
Old House".  One thing led to another and Norm and Bob Vila were on TV. 
At the time TOH was the only show of its kind on air, certainly by todays
standards TOH cannot compare, but TOH certainly set the standard.  Norm
has learned a lot about building furniture since those early days.  We
must also remember that experienced wood workers are not his target
audience, except for entertainment purposes only.  Now one might respond
that the SHOP is not one of a beginner, agreed but Porter-Cable and Delta
feel a need for Norm to use the latest and greatest tools.  Do I watch New
Yankee Workshop, sure it gives me idea's .  Do I use all of Norms
techniques, no. As for the nail gun, recent incident comes to mind.  I was
taking a wood working seminar given by Frank Klausz, while cutting a
mortise and tenon by hand (about 5 minutes to finish)some one asked him if
he owns a nail gun, the response "a what?" 


From bgordon@industry.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:37 EST 1997
Article: 193842 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brock Gordon <bgordon@industry.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:14:10 -0800
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I've got a question for John Paquay who wrote:

...  Root around until you find some scrap iron, or better yet bronze.  
Then build a really big fire and smelt your scrap into a flat pig ...  

Where do you find a flat pig, and how do you hold it still long enough
to smelt the scrap into him????

-bg


From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:38 EST 1997
Article: 193843 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Teak
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:16:39 GMT
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>Unless you keep the vessel under cover or have full time crew
>varsished teak is a 'pain in the a__'.
>There is NO question that,it is beautiful but who of us without 
>unlimited resources can maintain it? That is, if you use your vessel
>for any thing but a gin palace?
>IMOP oiled teak is the most practical method of maintaining exterior
>teak and also IMOP for interior teak.
>I do not believe that the stain on the piece of furniture would be as 
>serious if the original finish had been an oil finish and the repair
>would be that much easier. But don't take my word for it!
>"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW>

Thanks for your comments  - always appreciated!  I'm pretty sure that the
original thread was on a teak dining table, so the boat thing probably is
not that great a concern for the original questioner.  

However; with regard to teak finishing for marine environments:

Limited quantities of varnished exterior teak are reasonable provided the
initial finish is built up to adequate film thickness.  For Interlux
standard-build varnishes (Schooner, etc.), 8-10 coats are required (5-6
for fast build such as Interlux Gold).  From that point; however, two
coats/year are good enough to maintain an intact finish for 5-7 years
where I live (35 deg North Lat - Annapolis), and double that for a boat
with covers over the varnish.  Just scratch and patch on a yearly basis.  

I would never varnish anything other than cockpit rails, Dorade boxes, and
compass boxes due to safety concerns over footing.  IMHO, the best
treatment for teak decks and other horizontal surfaces is a weekly light
scrub (cross-grain) with TSP in salt water.  A washdown with Nature's
Bleaching Agent (sea water) is nice to keep things looking fresh.  Also
saves the inevitable yearly strip of oil as the deck starts to turn black
>from  oxidation and the stuff that eats oil.  Nothing is more fun than
hanging a skirt to protect gelcoat/paint/hardware and slopping on TEKA
A-B.  I'd rather varnish wood masts in a sandstorm.

Don't get me wrong - I love the look of oiled teak on a deck, but I could
never justify the time/expense on anything larger than what I could afford
to maintain myself.

Down below - another story.  Varnished cabin soles (raised holly strips
are pretty non-skid) with rubbed oil finishes are beautiful and relatively
easy to maintain.  I know the cabin sole sounds slippery, but with a
rubbed effect varnish (Interlux #60), it looks great and does a much
better job against damage by sand, grit, etc. than straight oil.

My father's Crealock 37 had a varnished tiller, two deck hatch frames, and
cockpit coamings - just enough brightwork to let you know he cared.  I did
his decks once a year (light sanding with 220 where needed and redoing
loose bungs).  I greatly preferred that work to the wash/wax necessary on
the topsides.

Once again - enjoyed your comments.


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:13:39 EST 1997
Article: 193844 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:31:51 UNDEFINED
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In article <33406609.7831@webspam.net> shafner@webspam.net writes:
>From: shafner@webspam.net
>Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
>Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:34:11 -0500

>haubert@mbi.org wrote:

>> Cherry looks by far the best with a plain oil finish.  Legislators are
>> currently considering a bill sponsored by O'Deen and myself to outlaw staining
>> cherry.

> 
>"Cherry looks best . . ." What a canard!


No, it is called an opinion - as is your long-winded reply.  A canard it is 
not.

 Natural, unstained cherry has
>its place, as does stained cherry as does painted cherry

Yeah, right.  911 has been called.


The notion that the wood cannot be
>beautified and that coloring it is somehow blasphemous is as silly as
>you get.

No, I get much sillier than that at times!  That particular belief is barely 
on the 'silly' scale.


>Let us take it one or two steps further: nevermind coloring the wood. If
>you mill and machine the wood and change its natural state, or if you
>slice the trunk of the tree, or if you do even cut down the tree you
>have commited an atrocity (what George Washington did). Silly!

Yes, that is silly.  But most will agree that the wood is prettier than the 
bark, and that furniture is more useful than logs.  So your point is 
completely irrelevant.


>Staining cherry is not tar and feathering the wood (and what if THAT is
>how I like my cherry?). Stained vs. unstained cherry are apples and
>oranges, if you know what I mean. 

I'm afraid I don't.  One takes max. advantage of one of the most beautiful 
woods on the planet, and one covers it up.  Not much to compare, I'm afraid.


>I just took a pair of cherry doors and toned them darker.

No, you stained them.

>the difference between a stain and a paint is the ability for the 
>stain to be translucent and for the paint to be opaque).

Thanks for the lesson in the obvious.

>. Too
>much of the wrong kind, and the finish starts to look muddy. That is
>hiding. 

Any stain is hiding.  As you pointed out, stain is simply thinned paint.


>and this is how they "equalized" the woods so that they could produce
>furniture that had some consistency to it. To me, that spells integrity
>(since, also with the difficulties of obtaining cabinet grade wood for
>their all solid-wood construction, production slowed and shipping times
>were as long as one year until supplies and prices stabilized. They were
>not willing to change woods, even if it meant a reduction in business!)

Sumter?  What, do you have stock in them or something.  I am just so thrilled 
that they chose to continue to waste solid cherry in their virtually-painted 
'furniture'.  What a classy company!  Your notion that making a business 
decision is more noble than saving cherry for those who like it's looks is 
absurd.

Unfortunately, the average person will never accept that wood is a natural 
material.  The whole POINT is that one board looks different from any other.  
To 'equalize' them all is not my idea of integrity.


>When it comes to finishing woods, there are so many variables 
involved>that to be dogmatic in tastes, especially on the phoney issue of
>staining this wood, leaving that wood unstained, or what type of finish
>to build on top of the wood and what sheen, etc., that is the real
>atrocity.

So now it's atrocious to have taste? Has the cruiser arrived at your home yet?


 And, to compund this doctrinaire foolishness by leading others
>astray without a caveat that such an aesthetic is your own humble
>opinion, that is truely aggregious.

Ooh, big words.  Now I'm REALLY impressed.  OTOH, if you really write like 
that to everyone, I can see how you might be someone who would paint cherry.


>Personally, I like formica, but only if it is put on a particle board
>substrate cut from old-growth trees.

Nah, formica should never be put on a solid wood platform.

Rich
Just say this guy must be an architect


From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:40 EST 1997
Article: 193845 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Teak
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:35:34 GMT
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OH BOY! did I gooof I never wished to imply that in discussing
teak care the Oiled Decks was included.
I agree 100% that plain bleached teak is the way to go.
Looks good and Feels good.
Yeech,Imagine wrestling some sheet or sail on a wet oiled deck?
Not too good methinks. I appologize for any misinformation and
misunderstanding my post may have caused.
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
Remove X to reply


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:41 EST 1997
Article: 193846 of rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Any Mobile Base Recommendations for Cabinet Saw???
Message-ID: <334134A1.75C7@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:15:29 -0600
References: <33404CD8.7B07@capella.com>
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Brad Erickson wrote:
> 
> I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" Fence.  Need a mobile base.
> Someone recommended Vega?? Does anyone have comments or suggestions??
> Thanks,
> Brad
> --
> 
>    ***CAPELLA NETWORKING - WEST***
>    http://capella.sj.ca.us         Phone:    800-649-7928
>    Email: brad:capella.com         Fax:      408-358-8710
>    Worldwide distributor of:  3Com, Adtran, Ascend, American
>    Power, Assurnet, Cisco, Compatible, Computone, Kentrox,
>    Livingston, Microcom, PacificBell, Shiva, U.S. Robotics

First you have to determine if you want the legs for your extension
table on or not.  I have a JTAS with 30" exacta.  I bought an HTC
HRS-10-X which is a 3 caster self-leveling system.The legs do not fit
snug into the corners, but they are close.   

My table does not move at all in this base.  The base does flex slightly
because of the 3 point system, so I shim (plan to make that more elegant
with a flip down wedge eventually) the corners on the end with one
wheel.  All in all I like it.

i don't think you can use universal bases if you want the legs within
the base as well, because I think I read they are for 30" max length.

email if you have anymore questions.
Damian Drewek
ddrewek@qgraph.com



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:42 EST 1997
Article: 193847 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Message-ID: <334133EF.585D@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:12:31 -0600
References: <33402fc3.17216766@news.sprynet.com>
Organization: Quad GRaphics
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Steve Swihart wrote:
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
> years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
> charge they take doesn't last very long.
> 
> I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
> time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
> does.  Is this true?
> 
> FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
> charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
> they're home tools.
> 
> TIA.
> 
> -Steve

The recommended procedure has changed.  By draining all the way, you
tend to damage the weaker cells within the battery.  Those batteries you
have are pretty old and recylcling mayn not work.  I not sure of the
exact procedure, but I had someone try it on mine (same ones) and it did
not take.  New batteries work wonderfull.  Drill starts to slow down, I
then charge them right away.

Damian



From mkpopp@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:43 EST 1997
Article: 193848 of rec.woodworking
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From: mkpopp@ix.netcom.com (Mark Popp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:32:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Before you buy one of those jigs, you might try another method
that works well with stones.  I call it the praying hands method,
because you hold the stone lenghwise in one hand and the plane
iron lengthwise in the other.   Keeping your elbows at your
sides, and your wrists ALMOST rigid,  you move your hands
back and forth (left and right).  It's easy to watch the angle
and there's something about the motion that keeps the iron
aligned to the stone almost automatically.  Press the iron
against the stone with 1 or 2 fingertips placed right behind
the center of the cutting edge.

I've used a homemade jig, and found that you have to adjust it
whenever you switch to a stone that's not the same thickness.
If the stone's not flat or if it rocks on the bench, that's a
problem.    You don't have those problems with sheet
abraisives, but I still prefer the praying hands method.
You can do a micro-bevel by adjusting your  wrist position
slightly.  That goes for the slight rounding of the corners
as well.  It's easier to do it sitting down.

Mark P.

Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:

>Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
>hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
>they of any benefit?

>I have just acquired a couple of planes and I need to learn about
>sharpening.  I have searched my local library and bookstores but
>couldn't find anything on the subject.  I have seen some in WoodHaven
>and others. I am going to have to order one of those. In the meantime,
>what is your opinion on the best way to go on stones (type, grit,
>length and width)?  Are the 3 stone systems the best way to go??  Is
>diamond better than the natural stone? All advice appreciated.

>** JOE **

><<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
>unwanted email when you leave a message in a
>newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
>just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>




From dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:43 EST 1997
Article: 193849 of rec.woodworking
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From: dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:41:34 GMT
Organization: Physics Department, University of Texas at Austin
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Edward LeBlanc <efleblanc@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>The article you are referring to (I think) was in Fine Woodworking No. 111,
>April 1995.  While the article specifically talked about joints for doors,
>it would seem to apply to other types of construction also.  The strength
>of a double biscuit joint compared favorably with the mortise and tenon
>joint.  However, the ultimate recommendation of the article was to use
>mortise and tenon joints for maximum durability in consideration of the
>mode of failure in the biscuit joint.

   A significant point in their reasoning was the "observation" that
   at some point after the plates started to fail, the surrounding
   long-grain to end-grain joint was still holding the joint together.

   This was most definitely one of FWW's darkest moments, that this
   article ever saw the light of day.  Take it for what you will, but
   it casts the rest of their reasoning putatively as horsesh*t, in
   the view of any intelligent reader.

   Doug Dawson
   dawson@physics.utexas.edu



From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:13:44 EST 1997
Article: 193850 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Methlyene chloride
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 17:29:37 GMT
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Nice of you to share you wisdom.  

So why was it you wanted to know the purpose of the original post on
methylene chloride?



 



=======================================================

On 1 Apr 1997 04:21:11 GMT, stkyfingr@aol.com (StkyFingr) wrote:
 
---------------snip---------------for brevity

>I was not rude, I asked a very specific question.  I have been working
>with these solvents for 33 years and I am up to date with them.  If you
>want more information on methylene chloride, let me know.  You can just
>about kiss this solvent goodbye, due to the recent OSHA standard.
>
>Sticky Fingers - aka Tim



Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:45 EST 1997
Article: 193851 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lindon Wood?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:33:57 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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References: <334043d5.2039265@news.smart.net>
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In article <334043d5.2039265@news.smart.net>, ##wood@smart.net## says...
>
>
>
>        Friend has a Lindon tree in his yard coming down.  Base girth is
>~30 inches.  Asked me what good it is cut up, I said I Dunno.  Anybody
>have an idea?
>
>        He thinks it's close to bass wood, maybe nice to carvers...
>
>
>                        Pat

Linden is indeed basswood. Carvers love it, as do modelmakers.
It's extremely soft and light weight, so it isn't really much good for
anything else, IMO, though I occasionally see nice pieces turned
>from  basswood.

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:46 EST 1997
Article: 193852 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: checking for square?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:34:17 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <333FBFC1.3BF@bloomu.edu>, mraynes@bloomu.edu says...
>
>
>I assembled my first case and actually got that square, but just cut
>apart the first face frame because it wasn't. I've tuned saw as good as
>I can get it, and I even bought a set of bessey clamps to help. However,
>I don't think tools are the answer. Craftsmanship must be the solution.
>

Carcases, IMO, are much easier to make square than are
face frames, because face frame pieces are so much narrower --
a face frame of, say, 2" wide pieces doesn't give you a lot of bearing
surface to help the butt-jointed assembly to self-register, and it's
easy to throw the frame out of square during clamping.

First off, use clamping cauls to both spread and focus the clamp
pressure at the same time.  You want the pressure to run along
an imaginary line through the centers of the pieces being joined,
both laterally and vertically.

Theoretically that's possible, but in the real world anything more
than a close approximation is pure luck -- so be careful not to
overclamp.  Too much clamp pressure exacerbates the problem
of your clamps not running directly along that imaginary line, and
the more pressure you apply, the worse it gets.  You can, by
overclamping, actually distort the pieces enough so that even if
everything was cut perfectly, the frame may not be square -- or it
may be square at one corner and not at another (which *should*
be impossible...)  Clamp only at the joints, and never rely on
clamping pressure to close joints that don't fit perfectly.

Just enough pressure to close the joint snugly is what you're after.

As you gain experience, you'll learn to move the clamping points
away from the imaginary center line to force the assembly into (or
out of) square during glue up.  One of my major Norm nits is that
he always talks about checking for square, but I've never seen him
have to do much of anything about it.  Geez, maybe he really IS
better than me...

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:47 EST 1997
Article: 193853 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is a safe finish for a baby cradle?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:09:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Shellac is non-toxic when dry - used on fruit in some cases to make it
shiny.  Check the can to be sure about a particular brand's toxicity when
dry, but Parks or Behlen shallacs are both pretty durable finishes.


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:48 EST 1997
Article: 193854 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for baby furniture plans
Message-ID: <8D5126A.0233014EA9.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:18:00 -0600
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Whats wrong with the Library for plans? Also zillions of plans online in
the Thousands of WW sites,Many WW mags carry ads for plansellers who
specialize in Baby furn.
                               Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:49 EST 1997
Article: 193855 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Questions, Questions...
Message-ID: <8D51271.0233014EAA.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:25:00 -0600
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A good source for Wood is the CURBSIDE GALLERIA! there are over 20
places to find Free wood,Like Contruction sites,Trashed Farmsites,Behind
WW buildings like Fencemakers,Cabinet shops,etc, Of course you can still
buy the good stuff but practice on the Free stuff or build Small
projects from it.There is so much Free wood around its unbelieveable
                                     Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:50 EST 1997
Article: 193856 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem; need help
Message-ID: <8D51278.0233014EAC.uuout@csoft-net.com>
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I saw that project on a Show on cable,,Im sure you can attach a fabric
dealie to it,And there are kits somewhere too,,If that glue fails then
switch to 100% SILICON SEALER! it sticks to anything even glass but is
stinky and ,messy till it cures in 24hrs But is extremely effective! I
have some holding a heavy soap dish to my Ceramic tile walls in the
bath..
                              Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:51 EST 1997
Article: 193857 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Message-ID: <8D51274.0233014EAB.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:28:00 -0600
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My question is How do ya keep the Hotmelt glue liquified if yer gluin a
huge tabletop etc? Wouldnt the glue be settin up or solidifyin before ya
get the wood structure in place or assembled?
                                     LW

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From adrien@STARGAZER.NET Wed Apr  2 12:13:51 EST 1997
Article: 193858 of rec.woodworking
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Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU>
From: Adrien Delbasty <adrien@STARGAZER.NET>
Subject: Re: HELP ME UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193858

Jerry:
To unsubscribe,
SEND TO: LISTSERV@MB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
Leave subject blank, or put in a period
In the message area, type SIGNOFF WOODWORK
Hope this helps, good luck
Adrien

----------
> From: Jerry Christensen <Codmaps@AOL.COM>
> To: WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> Subject: Re: HELP ME UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE
> Date: Tuesday, April 01, 1997 9:24 AM
>
> My instructions say....you may leave the list at any time by sending
> a"SIGNOFF WOODWORK"  command to LISTSERV@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> whether this command goes in the body of the letter or in the subject, I
do
> not know.....I also had problems thru listserv with another mailing list
> ......finally changed my screen name....and I followed all the
instructions
> also..  hope this helps
>
> oh yea...to the cretin who could not give a courteous answer to the
question
> that was asked....but rather made some jerkoff remark about mason jars
and
> "newbies  gotta love em" .....go to the bank....deposit an atm card(if
you
> know how to use one) withdraw enough cash to BUY A CLUE.....


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:52 EST 1997
Article: 193859 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Message-ID: <8D5128A.0233014EAE.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:50:00 -0600
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Cherry is used so ya dont require stain,Stain is used to make Cheap
woods look like expensive ones,,However if ya do use a stain lotsa luck
on cherry as cherry is FAMOUS for blotchiness due to density
digfferences in wood grain..
                               Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:53 EST 1997
Article: 193860 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: checking for square?
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Yes cuts are critical,All cuts must be made EXACTLY same way and on same
part of scribe line,Many books will show ya how to Scribe n cut for max
effect. Books like "Measure Twice cut once" in most libraries.What ya
use to Scribe is as critical as cut itself,,When ya figger the
phenomenon known as "Stacked Tolerances" youll realize a product can
have 10 parts all off just a hair but that can add up to bein way off on
assembly so its critical to use the best technique possible..BTW the
book Measure Twice and cut once is not the same title as one by
NORM,,Norms Book of same title is about carpentry...There are many WW
books with good sections on measuring/cuttin and if you read a few youll
get the idea soon enuff..
                               Lee Ward

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From mpcavana@merle.acns.nwu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:54 EST 1997
Article: 193861 of rec.woodworking
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From: mpcavana@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Maureen Cavanagh)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Please HELP. Repair and Operation Manuals for Old Table Saw/Combo
Date: 1 Apr 97 16:56:54 GMT
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Subject: YATES AMERICAN combo saw/disc sander/jointer circa 1960
I recently bought used Yates American "J-Line" combo shop tool which was
manufactured in the 1950s 60s.  It was very popular in
woodworking/cabinetmaking schools.

Unfortunately, I have no manual and contacted manufacturer(s) who also have
no information available.  The model is 2082.  If anyone out there has one
of these or has manuals I would appreciate hearing from you.
Or ANY info. 

Or do you know of anyone or perhaps any trade school that still may be using
this.  It seems like a great tool.

Email :    mcavana@nwu.edu

Thanks in advance for help.

Maur



From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:55 EST 1997
Article: 193862 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawer finishing advice needed
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:25:37 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <19970401052700.AAA01872@ladder01.news.aol.com>, rwgcubed@aol.com says...
>
>I am just finishing up a chest of drawers, and I need some advice on
>finishing the glides of the drawers. 
>
>I recently read an article in one of the woodworking mags that mentioned
>paraffin as the only finish on the exterior surface of the drawers (not
>the face, of course). What has been your experience or favorite techniques
>for finishing the drawers so that they don't gum up, or require
>maintenance, etc.
>

Definitely, plain paraffin wherever the glides and drawers mate.
You don't need to do the whole exterior of the drawer, but
definitely wax all the mating surfaces.  It isn't maintainance free,
but it does last a good while, and it's without question, in my mind,
the best drawer slide.

I like to sand the mating surfaces to at least #600 before waxing --
with woods like maple or birch, it's tempting to forego the wax
entirely once you've smoothed the wood to that degree.  Adding
the wax practically makes drawers open and close just by thinking
about it...

I just rub a stick of paraffin over the surfaces, then buff hard with
a dry cotton rag.  You can brush on melted paraffin, too, however,
for a slightly deeper waxing.


-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:56 EST 1997
Article: 193863 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:32:23 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
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Steven Bakalis writes
> This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
> resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.

When it does get damaged, it's hard to repair. If you need to reflatten
your bench, it's a pain to remove. It's also slippery. I believe
polyurethane is a poor choice of finish for a woodworking bench.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From Chuck Riccardo Wed Apr  2 12:13:57 EST 1997
Article: 193864 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: If you were NORM would you POST HERE ????
Date: 29 Mar 1997 00:24:35 GMT
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Okay, how about it? If you were Norm, would you post to this news group???

-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
"It is a strange fact that freedom and equality, the two basic ideas of 
democracy, are to some extent contradictory. Logically considered, freedom 
and equality are mutually exclusive, just as society and the individual 
are mutually exclusive."  Thomas Mann

Charles M. Riccardo   riccardo at snet.net
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++




From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:13:58 EST 1997
Article: 193865 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:13:45 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <33415072.263F@industry.net>, bgordon@industry.net says...
>
>I've got a question for John Paquay who wrote:
>
>...  Root around until you find some scrap iron, or better yet bronze.  
>Then build a really big fire and smelt your scrap into a flat pig ...  
>
>Where do you find a flat pig, and how do you hold it still long enough
>to smelt the scrap into him????
>
>-bg

I smack him over the head with a shovel.  How do you do it?

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:13:59 EST 1997
Article: 193866 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:47:24 GMT
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haubert@mbi.org writes
> Standing water on a plain oil finish is real bad news.

Depends on the "plain oil finish." I've had standing water on pure tung oil 
and polymerized tung oil finishes without ANY damage.


> As for odor, any oil-based finish smells bad, and can make some people dizzy 
> and nauseous. 

Actually, pure tung oil smells very nice. Polymerized tung oil usually
smells like the thinner, which in the case of at least one "low-toxic"
brand is a citrus based thinner that smeels pretty good - I've not noticed
any side effects from using it in an unventilated area.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Just say But Rich is right about PU's durability.

Opinions are mine alone.


From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:00 EST 1997
Article: 193867 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:56:32 GMT
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"eugene kulinek" <kulinek@mtnlake.com> writes
> Urathane is a nusance when someone has kids playing with car toys and dogs.
> It will scratch for sure so why bother.
>...
> I have applied urethanne (2 coats) on pine stairs 8 y ago and now it wears
> off on the edges a lot. Urethane is not any harder if base (pine) is soft. 

You're confusing things. You start by talking about scratch resistance,
and end up talking about wear resistance.

Scratch resistance is NOT dependent on the base material. PU on pine will
not scratch more easily than PU on oak. The wear-resistance property of
PU you then mention is harder to characterize. Depending on how the PU
has weared, it could be related to pine's softness (if the finish wasn't
flexible enough and lost its bond to the wood), but it could also be
completely independent of the wood and totall dependent on the quality
of the PU you applied, it's own abrasion resistance, and the type of 
wear your stairs have received.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Just say There's more than hardness at issue here.

Opinions are mine alone.


From davandersn@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:00 EST 1997
Article: 193868 of rec.woodworking
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From: davandersn@aol.com (David Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone has a good plan for homemade router table.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:08:10 GMT
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rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) wrote:

>In article <8D4C39C.0233014B1F.uuout@csoft-net.com> lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD) writes:
>>The library is still the best place to get free plans and generally the
>>last place anyone looks

>I think I've seen you make that assertion before in this group.  YOUR
>library may be a good source, but my town library tends to be heavy on
>woodworking books from the 60s through 70s, which (for power tools and
>jigs & fixtures for same, at any rate) are usually useless.

>A few more recent titles are trickling in lately (the NYWS books).  But
>I'd guess the bulk of their buying goes to support the latest mystery &
>romance best sellers.

>Mind, I'm not complaining.  Much <g>.  Yeah, I support them (Friends
>Of the Library & all that), and yeah I do suggest titles to them.  But
>they only have so much money, which they (rightly, IMO) choose to spend
>on what The Public wants.  I just get a little tired hearing that people
>asking for help/plans here are subnormal for not finding them at their
>local libraries.  --Steve

Steve, 

First, kudoos for supporting your local library!

Maybe your library does not have what you need, but how do you know
before you look?  I think Lee Ward is simply suggesting the the
original poster take a look for low cost alternatives before posting. 

I cannot get all that I need, but the libraries here in the Denver, CO
metro area, but  as a group they do have quite a bit to offer.  Do not
overlook junior college or tech school libraries!

Also, do not forget that the libraries also carry magazines.  If they
do not offer a good woodworking magazine, make a suggestion!  You can
even start them off with your own collection and a one year
subscription. <g>



From bgordon@industry.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:01 EST 1997
Article: 193869 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brock Gordon <bgordon@industry.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:17:06 -0800
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John Paquay wrote:
 
<snip>

> I smack him over the head with a shovel.  How do you do it?

Well, of course, I use the same method, but the whole point here was to
build the shovel in the first place.  Hard to hit him on the head when
you haven't built the shovel yet, and don't start with the pinning his
tail down with a sharpened stick stuff 'cause you know it won't work,
flat pig tails do not have enough tensile strength...

-bg


From bob@frontiernet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:02 EST 1997
Article: 193870 of rec.woodworking
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From: bob@frontiernet.net (Bob Eff)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta tablesaws - what is difference in product line
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:40:37 GMT
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I am shopping for a Delta tablesaw.  I find that there are two lines,
(1) the regular contractor line (36-400 series) and the (2) Contractor
Saw  II line ( 36-600 series).

I am finding about $200 price differential between the two,

What are the CONSTRUCTION differences, not the macine specs we get
sheets on.

Are the Saw II lines worth the investment, or will I face problems
downstream?

Bob Eff


From bobklein@pcola.gulf.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:03 EST 1997
Article: 193871 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobklein@pcola.gulf.net (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
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Sure.  I sent it to you by email.

=================================================

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 17:27:31 GMT, "eugene kulinek"
<kulinek@mtnlake.com> wrote:

>Can you tell me the title of this book.  


Regards,

Robert Klein
Robert's Antiques and Restoration
Pensacola, FL  32505  USA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
If you can't find time to do it right the first time,
how are you going to find time to do it over?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
bobklein@gulf.net
robertk204@aol.com


From rodwsheets@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:04 EST 1997
Article: 193872 of rec.woodworking
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From: rodwsheets@aol.com (RodWSheets)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Diamond Wood (Dymond Wood?)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 18:38:39 GMT
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Hut Products for Wood is a major distributor of Dymondwood. They sell
around 30 different colors but I don't know all the sizes they sell. They
specialize in turning products for pen making.

Contact them at address below:
Hut Products
15361 Hopper Road
Sturgeon, MO 65284
800-547-5461 (orders only)
573-443-1992 (tech service)
www. HUTProducts.com



Rodney Sheets(RodWSheets@aol.com)


From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:14:05 EST 1997
Article: 193873 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:40:34 UNDEFINED
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In article <3340A667.232F@microm.com> Troy Past <troy@microm.com> writes:
>From: Troy Past <troy@microm.com>
>Subject: Joiner Recommendations
>Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 22:08:39 -0800

>Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
>budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
>can't use very much.  I was considering the Delta Desktop Joiner.


You should remember that Delta sells its Desktop Joiner under the 'swingline' 
name.

I think you mean the Benchtop JoinTer.  The delta one is one of the best 
benchtops - its only real disadvantage being the aluminum used.

A floor-standing 6" jointer will set you back about $400, vs. $250 for the 
benchtop.  What do you get?  A lot more flattening capacity, an induction 
motor, all cast iron, and a better fence.

As always, just depends what's important to YOU.


Rich



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:14:06 EST 1997
Article: 193874 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:45:49 UNDEFINED
Organization: Michigan Biotechnology Institute
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In article <8D5128A.0233014EAE.uuout@csoft-net.com> lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD) writes:
>From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
>Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
>Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:50:00 -0600

>Cherry is used so ya dont require stain,Stain is used to make Cheap
>woods look like expensive ones,,However if ya do use a stain lotsa luck
>on cherry as cherry is FAMOUS for blotchiness due to density
>digfferences in wood grain..
>                               Lee Ward


Lee, VERY well said!

And, thanks for not referring us to the library.

Rich



>-----------------------------------------------------------------

>CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)

>         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec

>-----------------------------------------------------------------






From bennett@adobe.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:06 EST 1997
Article: 193875 of rec.woodworking
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From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bandsaw joinery?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 18:49:56 GMT
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Doug Dawson writes
>    I've cut some dovetails with the bandsaw in the past.  It's one
>    way of doing it.  My main complaint about it is that the result
>    is too uniform for my tastes, re. the angles etc..  ( Of course
>    this is done with a table that tilts in both directions. )

There's nothing to stop one from changing the table angle and spacing as 
you go. You also don't need a table that tilts both ways if you're
willing to build a simple jig.


>    The principal technical liability of it, is that the width of the
>    panel you're dovetailing is just too narrow for alot of work
>     - generally less than 14" on the 14" Delta unit.  Unless you
>    totally marked out everything on both sides of the boards, which
>    again gets you into troubles of excessive uniformity.

It's certainly more trouble to mark everything out on both sides, but that
doesn't mean anything has to be more uniform.


>    FWIW, the kerf is too wide, as well.  Kind of limiting.

Yeah, it's wider than Dozuki, but much narrower than a tablesaw and quite
a bit narrower than a router. Not bad for many applications, IMHO.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Opinions are mine alone.


From jrm@pgroup.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:07 EST 1997
Article: 193876 of rec.woodworking
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From: jrm@pgroup.com (John R Mudd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3/4 in" lumber at 12" width?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 10:31:00 -0800
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In article <5hq5cl$g97@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>,
Edward O'Grady <wallyo@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a good source of exotic hardwoods that are 
>3/4 in" thick and over 10" wide?   I can't find many places that
>stock this.

Is anyone really surprised? Have you considered gluing-up the boards?
Yeah, it's a bit of a pain, but woodworkers have been this for a fair
number of decades and it's really not that hard.

Wide boards of tropical hardwoods are going to cost $$$$, too.



From haubert@mbi.org Wed Apr  2 12:14:08 EST 1997
Article: 193877 of rec.woodworking
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From: haubert@mbi.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:54:30 UNDEFINED
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In article <5hrhnc$eri@enquirer.corp.adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
>From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
>Subject: Re: What finish for hardwood floors?
>Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:47:24 GMT

>haubert@mbi.org writes
>> Standing water on a plain oil finish is real bad news.

Bennett writes:

>Depends on the "plain oil finish." I've had standing water on pure tung oil 
>and polymerized tung oil finishes without ANY damage.

I'm really interested in this, Bennett.  What polymerized tung oil finishes do 
you recommend, and how long did the water sit on them?  For my purposes, a 
puddle SHOULD be able to sit there long enough to evaporate on its own without 
any damage to the finish - if not, one needs to constantly police the 
horizontal surfaces.

Another issue is moisture in the air.  I just installed a bunch of 
oil-finished trim in my bathroom, and I'm a bit nervous about the long-term 
hold-up-ability.  Time will tell.


>Actually, pure tung oil smells very nice.

Bennett, how long does pure tung oil take to dry?  When I've read catalogs 
selling the stuff, they say things like 'pure tung oil is usually not used by 
itself'.


 Polymerized tung oil usually
>smells like the thinner, which in the case of at least one "low-toxic"
>brand is a citrus based thinner that smeels pretty good - I've not noticed
>any side effects from using it in an unventilated area.

Do you consider polymerized tung oil varnish more durable or easier to use 
than pure?

Inquiring minds want to know!

>Just say But Rich is right about PU's durability.

Garsh!

Rich
Just say I really DO want to know, B!



From JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:09 EST 1997
Article: 193878 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jack Juhola <JJJUHOLA@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:02:51 -0800
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Bill Davis Jr. wrote:
> 
>I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?

I've been using DrawingBoard for several months now, and after using
TurboCad, AutoCad, and TommySoft's program, have found this to be far
and away the most intuitive to use. Really easy to pick up the
fundamentals. It has a feature they call "Drawing Assistant" that pulls
up temporary construction lines for perpendiculars, parallels, squares,
etc. You can download their demo version, DrawingBoard LT, from MCE
Software's web site at www.mcesoft.com. Hope this helps.

Jack J.


From obrien@cldx.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:10 EST 1997
Article: 193879 of rec.woodworking
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From: John O'Brien <obrien@cldx.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:28:14 -0500
Organization: Johnson & Johson Clinical Diagnostics
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Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
> hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
> they of any benefit?
> 
> I have just acquired a couple of planes and I need to learn about
> sharpening.  I have searched my local library and bookstores but
> couldn't find anything on the subject.  I have seen some in WoodHaven
> and others. I am going to have to order one of those. In the meantime,
> what is your opinion on the best way to go on stones (type, grit,
> length and width)?  Are the 3 stone systems the best way to go??  Is
> diamond better than the natural stone? All advice appreciated.
> 
> ** JOE **

Joe,
I recently equipped my sharpening station with a veritas bench grinding
jig
which when used with the sliding plane/chisel holder, grinds a fairly
accurate
and square edge. I then go to work on the stones. I now use the Veritas
honing
guide to help hold the plane irons at a fixed angle. It works pretty
good. I
like the fact that with just a crank on a knob, I can change the angle
ever so
slightly and hone a micro-bevel. This jig is probably one of the best on
the
market and also the most expensive ($25-30). However, I also found some
problems
with it as well. In order to get the chisel tightened down so that it is
secured
firmly in the jig, you really need to crank down on the brass knob. Then
when it
comes time to remove the chisel, it become VERY difficult to loosen this
knob.
Once set up, the jig works great when transfering from stone to stone.
Only takes
a few minutes to hone. Actually takes more time to get the chisel
properly positioned in the jig.
I only went to this jig after I became somewhat adept at sharpening by
hand
without the aid of fixtures. I believe this would be a good practice to
learn
before you rely too heavily on these types of jigs.

John



     "Measure with a Micrometer, Mark with Chalk, Cut with an Axe"

	      ------------------------------------------
              | John O'Brien                           |
	      | Johnson & Johnson Clinical Diagnostics |
              | Rochester, NY                          |
              ------------------------------------------


From obrien@cldx.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:11 EST 1997
Article: 193880 of rec.woodworking
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From: John O'Brien <obrien@cldx.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:06:34 -0500
Organization: Johnson & Johson Clinical Diagnostics
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pwcnva2 wrote:
> 
> There is a Craftsman dovetail jig that will do through dovetails and costs
> about $160.  Is anyone using it, using it and liking it, and could I have a
> review of its performance?
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad W.

-- 
I don't have the craftsman but I do have the Porter Cable 12", model
5008 which
I believe is very similar. I have not had any luck with this either. All
of my tails
end up being only about 1/4" high when I finally adjust the bit height
to the point
where the pins and tails fit together. The book says to set the bit at
19/32" and
I needed to set it at less than 17/32" to get a fit. Something has to be
wrong.
I called PC and they gratiously sent me out 2 of their bits to try. That
didn't
help, as a mater of fact, the problem got worse. I called PC again and
this time
they are sending me (swap) a new jig. My last discussion with PC
technical service
revealed that they NEVER had any problems with their templates on this
jig so I
kind of doubt my unit is defective, but we'll see.
Anybody else have this type of problems?

John




    "Measure with a Micrometer, Mark with Chalk, Cut with an Axe"

	      ------------------------------------------
              | John O'Brien                           |
	      | Johnson & Johnson Clinical Diagnostics |
              | Rochester, NY                          |
              ------------------------------------------


From hodcarry@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:12 EST 1997
Article: 193881 of rec.woodworking
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From: hodcarry@aol.com (Hodcarry)
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Subject: Re: Hot Melt does provide permanent bond
Date: 1 Apr 1997 19:21:55 GMT
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?A really really big microwave oven?


From bzajicek@navprgms.mar.lmco.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:13 EST 1997
Article: 193883 of rec.woodworking
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From: Bob Zajicek <bzajicek@navprgms.mar.lmco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:15:59 -0500
Organization: Lockheed Martin Aeronautical Systems, Marietta, GA
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Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
> hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
> they of any benefit?
> 
>Hey, Joe!

Yes, IMO they are worth it for a variety of reasons...one being that
they are about the only way to get a staight edge and a consistent angle
on a plane iron that I'm aware of. Like anything else, some are better
than others and price is no guarantee. It's a good idea to shop around
and examine these up close and personal, if possible. They don't cost
that much, but after you've bought several that don't meet your
requirements, it adds up.

These jigs tend to come in two basic styles...some have the guide/blade
clamp and wheel/roller assembly as a single unit. The roller on this
type will ride directly on the stone. These are a bit easier to control,
in some cases, but you're going to lose as much as 3-4 inches of surface
on your stone as the blade and guide will take that space, resulting in
a shorter sharpening stroke. The unit made by Veritas works like this.
Check 'Dejanews' under Veritas... was a good thread on this unit here a
month or so back. I've had one for about 6-7 years and it works well
enough. Has one nice feature that allows you to set the secondary bevel
with the turn of the knob rather than unclamping the blade and
readjusting the angle, etc., etc...       

The other type has the blade clamp at one end of an arm and the rollers
on a threaded rod on the opposite end of the arm, at a right angle. (I'm
getting a headache just thinking about this)... The rollers do not ride
on the stone with this style, so most of the surface area is usable,
allowing a longer sharpening stroke. The adjacent surface that the
rollers ride on needs to be flat and level, however. I have one of this
type also. Think it's 'made' by General, but there are others... this
unit works well, once you've got it set up right. The angle for the
secondary bevel will require you to change the height of the blade by
adjusting the threaded rod, etc..

Hope this helps...good luck to you!
Cheers, Bob
Cheers, Bob 
> <<Due to scum skulking around the Internet and sending
> unwanted email when you leave a message in a
> newsgroup, I use a pseudonym. To email me directly
> just send it to JAWFL@Lightspeed.net.>>


From breenmt@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:13 EST 1997
Article: 193884 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael T. Breen" <breenmt@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recycle pallets?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 19:46:50 GMT
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Jim Dalton <jldalton@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<33402294.6B89@worldnet.att.net>...
> I have used recycled pallets for lots of stuff and they are OK.  Making
> all the boards straight, and flat, will be a problem, but if it was
> easy, everyone would be doing it.
> 
I use old pallets for paddles for fraternities, (and my kids). You would be
surprised at the red and white oak you can get from them.  Trick is to get
the glued, twist nails out of the boards.  I found that a thin hack saw and
a pry bar do the trick quite well.  Then you get a scrap and plug the nail
holes with a plug / dowell cutter.  Put the boards away for a year to get
the moisture out and then thickness plane them to the same thickness.  Nice
wood for desktop caddys and other such projects.

If only I could get the nails out of the 2x4 rails...

Michael

breenmt@fuse.net


From breenmt@fuse.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:14 EST 1997
Article: 193885 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Michael T. Breen" <breenmt@fuse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
Date: 1 Apr 1997 19:49:38 GMT
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Bunches snipped...

> Troy:
> 
> In my experience, the length of the tables (or bed?) is the key to
> jointing. The smaller 4" and 6" bench top units don't stretch very far.
My
> 6" handles about a 6' long board - but that's about it's max capacity. If
> I know that a smaller jointer than the one I have would provide little
real
> utility.
> 
> > Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
> > budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
> 
Ryobi 6 1/8 works just fine in my shop, easy to change blades too!

Michael


From vjkoletar@MED.NAVY.MIL Wed Apr  2 12:14:15 EST 1997
Article: 193886 of rec.woodworking
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For all of you with questions out there, or are looking for plans check out
this web site: {wood working megalinks}   http://
nespal.cpes.peachnet.edu/wood/.
   Links to all kinds of woodworking related stuff, including plans.

have fun
    Vince Koletar
vjkoletar@med.navy.mil


From chemsmith@iquest.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:16 EST 1997
Article: 193887 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Mike Smith" <chemsmith@iquest.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 02:43:46 GMT
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I bought a Craftsman dovetail jig at about $100 that does through, offset,
and half-blind joints.  It worked OK for my first project.  Not great, some
parts are easily damaged by the router bit.  Also not flexible in spacing
like the expensive jigs--but I don't have any experience with others so I
can't provide real comparisons.  The Craftsman was fairly easy to set up
and use, and the results are OK for normal DIY projects--although I don't
think it would stand up well to very heavy use and it probably doesn't hold
work as steady as a sturdier, higher priced jig.  Good Luck.

Mike.

pwcnva2 <pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net> wrote in article
<5hoiah$puc$2@nw003.infi.net>...
> There is a Craftsman dovetail jig that will do through dovetails and
costs 
> about $160.  Is anyone using it, using it and liking it, and could I have
a 
> review of its performance?
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad W.
> 


From jb@mcneel.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:16 EST 1997
Article: 193888 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Brock <jb@mcneel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: mounting wooden typesetters box
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:01:31 +0100
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rfodden@chass.utoronto.ca wrote:
> 
> I have an antique type setter's tray -- shallow wooden box with many
> small compartments -- that I want to mount on the wall.  The problem with
> my original plan, which was to simply screw it into the wall through the
> back panel, is that the back panel is a thin sheet of wood that
> is cracking badly.  I don't want it to split any more, and I'd prefer not
> to do anything that permanently obscures the back panel since, though I'm
> mounting it on a wall for now, it has an old advertisment on the back that
> is kind of interesting.  Any ideas on how to hang this as a display case?
> 
> Thanks for any advice.
> 
> R.F.
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


If the sides are structurally sound, you could attach hook eyes and
picture wire to it and hang it like a picture.  If you don't want to
damage it with eyes, perhaps a wood or metal frame could be built around
the sides to give you something to attach to for hanging.  If you are
worried about people touching it but still want it displayed, a close
fitting lexan box could be built that would hold it but then it would
look like the art displayed in an air terminal.  Hmmm....

-JB


From Neil@mail.dec.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:17 EST 1997
Article: 193889 of rec.woodworking
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From: Neil@mail.dec.com (Peter Neil)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Glue vs screwing large top on Cabinet ?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:19:36 GMT
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Hi,

I'm a relative newbie starting my first major (for me anyway)
project.  I'm going to build the following out of 3/4" Red Oak.

Free standing cabinet:

	o solid wood slab construction (glued panels)
	o case approx 48" wide and 16" deep
	o top approx 1" wider and deeper
	o two doors
	o solid divider (will also serve as the inside 'stop/rest'
	  for the doors).

I'm planning on rabbeting the base, back, and sides and then glueing these
four pieces solid.  The divider will sit in a dado on the base but not be
glued to the back.

Originally I was planning to cut dado's/grooves into the top and then glueing
the sides and back directly into these cuts. The grain on the top and back will
be horizontal and vertical on the sides.  To my untrained (uneducated ?) eye
these joints would be really solid and basically last forever.

HOWEVER, I've been told that I should NOT glue but use something like screw 
blocks in the four inside corners that would be both screwed to the
sides/back and to the top.  The reason I was given is that the sides will
expand outward when the humidity increases here (Massachusetts) in the
summer and basically tear the top apart...

With screws I'll be worried that they won't stand up over time since this is
going to be one heavy beast after it's done.

Also, for what it's worth, I was planning on 3 or so coats of a polyurethane
finish for durability.

Comment and suggestions will be most welcome.

Thanks,

Peter Neil.



From hamilton@frii.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:18 EST 1997
Article: 193890 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Hamilton <hamilton@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Lindon Wood?
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Patrick S. wrote:
> 
>         Friend has a Lindon tree in his yard coming down.  Base girth is
> ~30 inches.  Asked me what good it is cut up, I said I Dunno.  Anybody
> have an idea?
> 
>         He thinks it's close to bass wood, maybe nice to carvers...
> 
>                         Pat
> 
> wood at smart<dot>net
> 
> ANTI-SPAM ALERT: please put the above together to email me.

Basswood is the soft, white, close-grained wood from the American linden
tree (genus Tillia).  Basswood is used by a lot of wood carvers.

Dave Hamilton


From Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us Wed Apr  2 12:14:19 EST 1997
Article: 193891 of rec.woodworking
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From: Kevin_Miller@mail.ci.juneau.ak.us (Kevin Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Great Tweezers!
Date: 1 Apr 1997 19:43:20 GMT
Organization: No organization in my shop
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In article <01bc3ded$09f00680$1bbdb3cd@the_tick.mediware.com>, dbcoder@juno.com says...
>
>The guy selling tweezers in this group almost had me ready to buy, till I
>got his SPAM EMAIL. I refuse to buy anything from anyone who SPAMS!
>-- 
>somebody@inow.com
>www2.inow.com/~somebody

Normally I don't either, but he did a couple of things that I appreciated.  First,
he didn't just buy a list and send it to a gizillion folks.  He specifically took
the trouble to get addresses from rec.woodworking so as to target his mail to 
folks who might actually have a use for his product.  I don't care for Russian
matchmaking services, alternates to Monixodil, etc. but as a woodworker I do get
splinters every now and again.  He also said where he got my address.  I don't 
know why, but I liked that - again, he's focusing on folks who can use the product
and not buying a massive list from some sleaze ball.

The other thing I liked is that he is obviously a "cottage industry".  All he's 
selling is the tweezers for a few extra tool bucks.

There seems to be a knee-jerk reaction to advertising in email - I hate junk mail
as much as the next guy, but if I get a unsolicited tool catalog in the regular
mail at home I don't piss and moan about the demon-infested vermon who sent it to
me.  I look at it and see how the prices are compared to the other vendors 
offerings.  If I get a bunch of catalogs in the mail that I don't want I call their 
800 number and request to be taken off the list.

Same in email.  If I get spam I don't want, I email them (and their ISP) and tell 
them to remove  me.  I also keep the message in a folder called SPAM to track the 
senders.  I  have yet to get a 2nd hit from the same folks.  Maybe I'm luckier 
than most, I  don't know.  I do know tho that I'm not gonna cut off my nose to 
spite my face.  I used to automatically get heartburn over spam too, but then I 
stopped to think through my position.  In a few rare cases it is actually infomative 
of something that is beneficial to me.  It is easier to get rid of junk email, and 
to request your name be removed than it is w/snail mail - just treat it the same
and add years to your life...

...Kevin



From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:20 EST 1997
Article: 193892 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Recommendations ($600 budget)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 20:22:40 GMT
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In article <3340401c.1940006@news.mindspring.com>, danckert@mindspring.com (Michael J. Danckert) writes:

>
>I am interested in finding out what some of the best quality
>contractor style table saws are in the $400-$600 price range. I have
>not seen any comparison articles or reviews lately and would
>appreciate hearing from some of you who have saws in that price range.
>
>
>

DEJANEWS will list the evaluation of Ryobi BT3000 by 8 users along with some of the accessories.  


From 1jtay@airmail.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:20 EST 1997
Article: 193893 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John B. Taylor" <apd@airmail.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Stand-Mounted Rocking Horse
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:26:00 -0600
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Can anyone provide me with a photocopy of the plans for a Stand-Mounted
Rocking Horse as featured on pages 62-77 of THE ART OF WOODWORKING,
WOODEN TOYS AND CRAFTS by Time-Life Books.  Similar plans from other
sources for the same type of rocking horse would be appreciated.



From jbrandenburg@pcsedu.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:21 EST 1997
Article: 193894 of rec.woodworking
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From: Jeff Brandenburg <jbrandenburg@pcsedu.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "NOBEX" Mitre Box Saws - How Good?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:35:59 -0800
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I have one that has plastic supports for the saw itself, and get 100%
accurate miter cuts from it.  I'm an off-and-on amateur woodworker, so
mine doesn't get real heavy usage, but it's holding up well.  I have
friends that are more into woodworking than I am, and they look to my
Nobex to do their accurate miter cuts.


From ctwest@usgs.gov Wed Apr  2 12:14:22 EST 1997
Article: 193895 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: ctwest@usgs.gov (Chris West)
Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
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I rounded over 4x4 pt for a swing set. looks ok to me. used steel bit
with a 1 1/2 hp router, making a 1/2 inch radius cut. I agree with 
it being toxic.

However, for decking, I'd go with the suggestion of the previous poster.
When I did my deck, the decking was 5/4 inch thick, by 6 inches wide, 
with rounded over edges that look real nice.

Garrett Lambert (garrett@asianet.net.hk) wrote:

: It won't hurt your router, but it might hurt your lungs. The stuff is
: really quite toxice. In any event, there are two other reasons why wou
: shouldn't and don't need to do it:

: First, PT, like beauty, really is only skin deep. The lighter wood
: colour underneath will show, and you'll be very unhappy with your nice
: rounded over "stripes". Not to mention that the wood will be far less
: "protected".

: Second, any decent lumber yard ought to be able to offer you rounded
: over PT deck boards. They're a standard item for which you pay a small
: premium.

: On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:08:21 -0600, Rick Shelton
: <rshelton@wegener.com> wrote:

: >I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
: >round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
: >rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
: >dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
: >
: >Thanks.
: >
: >-- 
: >- Rick Shelton
: >
: >  rshelton@wegener.com


--
Chris West                  
ctwest@usgs.gov


From mike_tripp@dell.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:23 EST 1997
Article: 193896 of rec.woodworking
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From: mike_tripp@dell.com (Mike Tripp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: 1 Apr 1997 20:52:51 GMT
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In <5hrfo9$97d@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>, jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay) writes:
>>Where do you find a flat pig, and how do you hold it still long enough
>>to smelt the scrap into him????
>
>I smack him over the head with a shovel.  How do you do it?

Must be wonna them city boys, if'n ya never smelt pig scrap..

Mike


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:14:24 EST 1997
Article: 193897 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Cordless nailing tool
Lines: 18
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193897

Yes, sorta..  Paslode makes some nailers that use a combustable gas, with a
rechargeable battery for ignition.  Provides the *function*, just operates
a bit dirrerently.  Check a Woodworker's Supply catalog, amongst others.
Jim aka BigJim

>
>Jeff Kim <tdcraft@www.kotis.net> wrote in article
><3340909C.3693@www.kotis.net>...
>> Is there a cordless (rechargeable) tool that can strike nails on wood
>> without electric power.
>>
>> Need information.
>>
>> Please fax 82-2-555-5859 or email tdcraft@kotis.net
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>
>


From cfarm@compunet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:25 EST 1997
Article: 193898 of rec.woodworking
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From: cfarm@compunet.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splitting wood & wedges???
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On Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:21:01 GMT, garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett
Lambert) wrote:
Doesn't Roy Underhill cover this in one of his The Woodwright's Shop
books?  Seems like I saw it there.

And I am pretty sure that one of the books in the Foxfire series
showed how to make and use a froe, as well as how to use wedges to
split logs for making fenceposts and tool handles.

Good luck, it's hard work -- I know because I've had to make
fenceposts that way myself and it was no party.  Stock up on the
Doan's pills.


Frank
>
>On 31 Mar 97 00:47:10 UTC, bradsm@idirect.com (brad smith) wrote:
>
>>I want to make axe and hammer handles, I want to get the wood myself and
>>make it from scratch. What I need is information on how to properly
>>split the wood into sections.
>>A friend of mine tells me that his grandfather use to do this with a
>>blunt hatchet and wedges, anyone know about this method? Also I want to
>>use wooden wedges for my handles, what would be the best wood for this?
>>any tips on how to make sure the wedges dont come out and a nice tight
>>fit?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>             brad.
>>
>



From gwatts@cv.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:25 EST 1997
Article: 193899 of rec.woodworking
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From: gwatts@cv.hp.com (Gary Watts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Straight holes in long boards
Date: 1 Apr 1997 20:52:09 GMT
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I was wondering if any one had seen a jig or other ingenious idea for
drilling holes in long material.  I recently had some 4 x 4 posts for
my workbench that needed holes drilled perpendiculiar to the end.  
They were too long for the drill press so I was left with the hand drill.
I have seen the General Tool guy that hooks onto your 3/8" drill but
I required a 1/2" drill bit.  Additionally, it looked like you wouldn't
have much surface area to put the flat onto.  

Gary


From bigjim@ALASKA.NET Wed Apr  2 12:14:26 EST 1997
Article: 193900 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
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I second the cheapo bits, tho there is a way to make them last far longer.. :)

If you do not let the residue build up enough to cause overheating in the
bit, and place it in household ammonia for a few minutes, they will clean
right uo for reuse.  I do this commonly with my circular saw blades,
particularly the small-toothed plywood blade.  Works well..

Please note also that in order to preserve the pressure treated effect, you
should cover any cut edges with a compatible "pressure treatment solution"
shortly after cutting, since you will see on the cut edge that the solution
is not evenly distributed through the wood.  I would expect this to be even
more important on rounded over edges, as they will be other than vertical.

Jim aka BigJIm

At 11:15 PM 3/31/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Rick Shelton wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
>> round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
>> rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
>> dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> - Rick Shelton
>>
>>   rshelton@wegener.com
>
>I doubt it would burn up your router, as long as it's not underpowered &
>you take multiple passes, however being pine & saturated with
>preservitive will almost surely trash your bits.  You might go for the
>el cheapo high speed steel bits & toss them when they are burnt up.
>
>Buzz
>
>


From IrishByrne5@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:27 EST 1997
Article: 193901 of rec.woodworking
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From: Karen Byrne <IrishByrne5@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Purple Heartwood
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:09:02 -0500
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I use to mill alot of p.h for a bench manufactor and found it turned a
deep purple when left in the sun for just a short time.
 


From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:28 EST 1997
Article: 193902 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworker Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 1 Apr 1997 20:30:34 GMT
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I recently purchased a Delta Power Sliding Miter Saw from toolcrib. I was
cheaper than I could find in any store in my area (San Jose CA) and there
were no shipping charges! I placed my order on Monday and on Wednesday the
saw showed up in perfect condition. I save a large sum of money.. BTW Home
Depot didn't even carry this particular saw.

> And it seems as if the retailers are happy to oblige, too. ;-) And I wish
> there was a tool Mecca within striking distance, but I have to make do
with
> Home Depot, Hechingers and Lowes, and the local industrial tool seller
> ($$$).
> Casey
 



From dbcoder@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:29 EST 1997
Article: 193903 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Database Coder" <dbcoder@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 1 Apr 1997 20:49:12 GMT
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> I have seen all the awful things said about Home Depot on these pages
> and I think people are either over-generalizing or expecting too much.

Expecting too much like experienced helpful sales people, or maybe
expecting that they might actually order extra quantities of items that are
popular?

> 
> Home Depot makes it possibile for DIYs to access products previously
> available only to contractors.  They have convenient hours and locations
> to many people.  

Name something that I cannot get from another source.

> 
> Their structual wood has some bad pieces, but so does wood from
> anywhere, and at least you can pick through it at HD.  Their hardwood is
> expensive, but what do you expect?

some bad pieces? where do you live? I  recently needed 60 2x4's after going
to HD and spending 30 minutes digging and finding only 10 that were barely
acceptable, I went to Sunnyvale Lumber where I paid only 20 cents more per
2x4 and they loaded it directly into my truck. They let me inspect the wood
as it was loaded, and I was able to reject bad pieces. I was at the Lumber
yard much less than 30 minutes. BTW this was on a Saturday.

> 
> They sell Delta, PC, DeWalt and everything else.
they do not carry a full line of any tools. Tool Crib mail order is a much
better way to go for power tools.

> 
> If I have a tool question, I come here and DejaNews.  If I go to HD for
> tool help, I know from experience which one employee has experience and
> knowledge to help.  I don't ask the college student at the cash
> register.  
Wow they hire college students at your HD? You have a better level of sales
person at your HD than any of the HD's in my area.

> 
> The people in the wood section now know me on-sight.  They are always
> helpful.  I cannot get 12" maple burl there.  What do you expect?
sounds like you are from a small town. Go to a major city and visit the
Home Depot there, I am sure you will have a much different experience. I
have three Home Depots' within 15 minutes of my house, they are all the
same. Bad wood, Bad service, crowded, Ignorant sales staff, lousy dying
plants, over priced garden supplies such as compost, manure, bricks etc..

> 
> If it were not for HD, I would have to travel 2 hours to Highland
> Hardware in Atlanta or 90 min to Georgia Hardwoods in Duluth.

Tuff luck! Move to a better area if it is a problem!
 
> 
> Be sure to consider sales tax, shipping costs, delivery charges, etc. 
> If you get a 300 lb tool from mail order, they will deliver it to your
> house (probably).  From HD you pick it up or pay a charge for delivery.
Tool Crib charges no shipping for orders over $75 and if they don't have a
retail outlet in your state there is no sales tax!





From norm_j@harold.eastky.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:30 EST 1997
Article: 193904 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Chris Jones" <norm_j@harold.eastky.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: 31 Mar 1997 22:14:37 GMT
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I built several adirondack chairs for the patio and yard last summer and
used pressure treated wood. I used 1x material and it has worked well. I
used a seasoning for the wood as rec. by the lumber company. They have made
it through the summer, fall and winter and look good. The green color of
the wood quickly changed to a weathered grey after I applied the seasoning.


> > >I am a novice woodworker and am planning to build Adirondack chairs. 
What
> > >would be my wood of choice if I do not want to paint the chairs?  And
what
> > >material should I use if the chairs are painted?
> 
> Using the  above list your best deal is white oak. This oak fills the
> parenchym tubles with material so water will not penetrate and therefore
> white oak is used for outdoors furniture. May not look as good as Teak
but
> will last a long time and cost a lot less and is usually availble.
> 


From mmacdowell@ccgate.hac.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:31 EST 1997
Article: 193905 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark MacDowell <mmacdowell@ccgate.hac.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit advice needed
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:13:51 +0000
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I have done several test cases with biscuit joints,  in most cases the 
wood (leg) broke before the joint did.  This assumes the proper 
gluing/clamping techniques of course.


From macduff@port.island.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:32 EST 1997
Article: 193906 of rec.woodworking
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From: seumas mccombie <macduff@port.island.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: outfeed tables
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:36:57 -0800
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the simple solution is to make a support frame from 3/4 in ply with 2ft.
long 2*4 feet and angle braces to support the feet to the  verticle
plywood and at the required height of the table saw.then split a
42in.long 5in. plastic pipe on the table saw and clip this pipe over the
top of the verticle plywood.presto you have a out feed table and a left
extension table in a single unit,because this is portable and moveable
to where you require the support.in the outfeed position the material
will be able to ride up and be supported by the pipe with very little
friction,to the left of the saw and in the cross support position there
is only one line of friction and that is along a single line on the top
of the pipe.this will elininate large out feed tables along with


From philsbs@win.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:33 EST 1997
Article: 193907 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Phil Westlund" <philsbs@win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tablesaw
Date: 1 Apr 1997 14:50:43 GMT
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I am looking for any information on a Darra James tablesaw.


From mike@flexwood.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:34 EST 1997
Article: 193908 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike DiGiuro <mike@flexwood.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:56:48 -0500
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Mike Tripp wrote:
> 
> In <5hrfo9$97d@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>, jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay) writes:
> >>Where do you find a flat pig, and how do you hold it still long enough
> >>to smelt the scrap into him????
> >
> >I smack him over the head with a shovel.  How do you do it?
> 
> Must be wonna them city boys, if'n ya never smelt pig scrap..
> 
> Mike


Enough of all this Tom foolery.  This is serious stuff.  Here in
Kentucky, whenever possible we build our outhouses two stories.  The
University of Kentucky folks can use the up stairs, and the University
of Louisville folks the down stairs.

Also, you might as well be sociable and build a two holer.

Mike


From macduff@port.island.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:34 EST 1997
Article: 193909 of rec.woodworking
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From: seumas mccombie <macduff@port.island.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: out feed tables
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:11:40 -0800
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this innovation will solve the problem of the space
required,friction,and ride out which can happen with the roller and or
ball bearing type support,and the large operational area required when
the out feed tables are used in the out feed position
  first make a support frame from 3/4 plywood with 2ft.6in. long feet
and braces from the feet to support the verticle plywood ,which will be
at the height of the tablesaw less about 1/2in. and 42in.long,in the
middle of this verticle pannel remove a large rectangle cut out,this
will lighten the( outrigger)
   cut a 5in.plastic pipe at 42in.,split this on the table with one kerf
cut and clip the pipe over the verticle plywood pannel and presto you
have a portable and moveable outfeed and left side extension table,which
will ride up and support material in the outfeed position,when used at
the left of the saw it will support large sheet material for
crosscutting,in the outfeed position there is very little friction and
no ride out as there is with the roller or ball bearing type roller
support,it eliminates the large outfeed tables and in the cross cut
position at the left of the saw there is only one line of friction and
that is along the single line on top of the 5in.pipe.this outrigger will
allow you much more control when cutting 4*8 or over sized sheet
material
   if this helpful innovation does not click see it at the home of the
original jimmy jig at http://www.island.net/~macduff/
  seumas maccombie


From IrishByrne5@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:35 EST 1997
Article: 193910 of rec.woodworking
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From: Karen Byrne <IrishByrne5@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Please Help
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:55:14 -0500
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hi ray


From IrishByrne5@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:36 EST 1997
Article: 193911 of rec.woodworking
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From: Karen Byrne <IrishByrne5@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue-ups from curly maple: bad idea?
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:48:05 -0500
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Not at all! I just got done with one I made it has a curly maple top
made up of 1 1/2" strips, face glued to look like butcher block. The
apron and drawer were out of curly cherry. But I did use a wide belt on
all my pieces, then just touch up with a orbital              Jim




From IrishByrne5@webtv.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:37 EST 1997
Article: 193912 of rec.woodworking
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From: Karen Byrne <IrishByrne5@webtv.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue-ups from curly maple: bad idea?
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From xxrwp@ftn.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:38 EST 1997
Article: 193913 of rec.woodworking
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From: "R Webb" <xxrpw@ftn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 21:58:17 GMT
Organization: ftn Internet
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I have never heard of that but I must admit that I have never heard of a
lot of things.

If you do go ahead and use the router on the pressure treated lumber,
remember to use a very good dust mask because you just don't want to inhale
any dust from pressure treated lumber.

Rick Shelton <rshelton@wegener.com> wrote in article
<333FE175.5AF7@wegener.com>...
> I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
> round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
> rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
> dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> - Rick Shelton
> 
>   rshelton@wegener.com
> 


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:38 EST 1997
Article: 193914 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router table plans
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:50:38 GMT
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Having built my own ans it is shown at
www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092   I'd sort of like to see what
Norm's looks like.  We don't get his show in our part of Canada.  Mine
use a square base plate but veratis now list a nice looking round
plate idea.

Verne

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:25:19 -0700, RICHARD MCNEAL
<rick.mcneal@Sun.COM> wrote:

>regarding the theory that the suppliers don't want you to build things
>like the router table because it's cheaper to make yourself. that
>argument doesn't wash here because of the price of wood (Colorado).
>it would have been cheaper for me to buy a router table than make
>the one from norm's show. of course, not nearly as enjoyable.
>
>rick

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:39 EST 1997
Article: 193915 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Plan
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:50:42 GMT
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Check out www.utdallas.edu/~rick   There is supposed to be a plan
here.  Otherwise why not take your measurements and simply draw in
what you need and have space for.  This way you get what 'you' want.

On 30 Mar 1997 22:24:15 GMT, "Tim" <tj061470@post1.com> wrote:

>Hello,
>
>Does anyone out there have *ANY* plans for building a workbench for the
>garage?
>
>
>I'm looking to build something with some drawers to store nails, screws,
>etc.
>
>Thanks
>

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:40 EST 1997
Article: 193916 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making Pine Look Old
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:50:44 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <33437e3f.955546@news.ftn.net>
References: <19970329195200.OAA26933@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I've never tried this but have heard that if you leave it out in the
sun and weather for while you'd quickly get this effect.  Don't quote
me now.

On 29 Mar 1997 19:52:36 GMT, tucker21@aol.com (Tucker21) wrote:

>  I am into shaker and colonial furnature and keep trying to get the
>"real" old look of pine from new wood.  I have tried different stains and
>even barn siding (this comes the closest until you plane it) and I would
>love any ideas.
>

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From verneb@greynet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:41 EST 1997
Article: 193917 of rec.woodworking
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From: verneb@greynet.net (Verne H. Bohlender)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: QUESTION???????????????????????????????????
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:50:46 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <33447ebd.1082030@news.ftn.net>
References: <333B53A1.4B9E@erols.com>
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check out www.woodmagazine.com  The have a few listed and available.

On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:14:09 -0500, ebender <ebender@erols.com> wrote:

>does any one know where i can find any good woodworking software?????

****************************************************************
Verne H. Bohlender                Phone 1-519-363-3027
Chesley, Ontario, Canada      verneb@greynet.net
Home Page at 
       http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/4092
Also soon to be at greynet.com
*********************************************************


From tstrauss@up.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:42 EST 1997
Article: 193918 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Tom Strauss" <tstrauss@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: opinion on Grizzley G1029 dust collector
Date: 1 Apr 1997 22:18:31 GMT
Organization: up.net
Lines: 7
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193918

I would appreicate any comments, problems, or other information on a
Grizzly G1029 dust collector.  

If not a problem could you e-mail them to me.

Thank you.
 


From chairs1@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:43 EST 1997
Article: 193919 of rec.woodworking
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From: chairs1@juno.com (A. L. Basile)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS Actuators
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:23:49 -0500
Organization: Mail to Usenet Gateway
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Electric actuators with 8" travel and limit switch.  Will lift 250
pounds.  Used for adjusting heights on tv and vcr, and computer and
keyboard.

Al Basile
Phone 770-458-2813


From fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu Wed Apr  2 12:14:44 EST 1997
Article: 193920 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!usenet
From: fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu (Ted Claire)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Anyone used PEELAWAY Paint Stripper?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:51:39 GMT
Organization: University of California Berkeley
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Has anyone any experience using the Dumond Chemical Co. Peelaway paint
stripping system?  I am trying to remove a coat of 80-year old shellac
>from  redwood panelling and molding.  Is this stuff available in a
sample kit so I don't have to buy $40 worth to see if it works?  Your
experiences would be helpful to me.  Thanks

Ted Claire



From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:44 EST 1997
Article: 193921 of rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Makita - 10" Sliding CMS - Tuning problems/suggestions?
Message-ID: <3341914D.A7E@qgraph.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:50:53 -0600
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Anyone ever try to tune the Makita 10" sliding compound Miter Saw?
I bought one a couple years ago and used it for building decks etc. and
now I am more into "woodworking" and would like to get perfect 90's and
45's out of it (I am talking miters not even bevels at this point).

I suspect the fence must be slightly out of line from the left to the
right of the blade because it does cut differently between the two
sides....So I just focused on the left of the blade.  

When I get "lined" up to 90 degrees, the cut is square with exception of
a few low spots. (over 6" board).  So I would suspect I am getting some
blade flex or something?  I measured the runout w/out the saw running
and it's about .003-.004 or so.  I am using the thin kerf 60 tooth blade
that came with the saw.

Could I goto a regular kerf blade?

Lastly, when I set the saw to the 45 degree positive stop, it is not 45
degrees, even though the 90 degree is pretty much right on.
It looks like these are factory preset.  Anyone else play around with
this?

Thanks in advance,
Damian Drewek
ddrewek@qgraph.com



From bobmethelis@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:45 EST 1997
Article: 193922 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobmethelis@mindspring.com (Robert J. Methelis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bosch 4200 vs. the Venerable 1500 series Jig Saws
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:53:05 GMT
Organization: Mindspring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 17
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Was at a Bosch service outlet over the weekend.  They had
reconditioned  barrel and D handle Bosch 1500s at $139. But what
really caught my eye was the Bosch 4200 for $80.

The salesman/tech said the difference was that the 4200 didn't have
the new CLIC blade holder. Both use Bosch's proprietery bayonet type
blades.  Amperage, foot design, finish, materials, weight were/seemed
identical to the 1500s.

Doeas anyone have any info on the 4200?


Bob Methelis
Bob-in-NJ on IRC

He would be wood if he could,
but he's knot.


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:14:46 EST 1997
Article: 193923 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Please HELP. Repair and Operation Manuals for Old Table Saw/Combo
Date: 1 Apr 1997 22:21:22 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 41
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In article <mpcavana.859913814@merle>, mpcavana@merle.acns.nwu.edu says...
>
>
>Subject: YATES AMERICAN combo saw/disc sander/jointer circa 1960
>I recently bought used Yates American "J-Line" combo shop tool which was
>manufactured in the 1950s 60s.  It was very popular in
>woodworking/cabinetmaking schools.
>
>Unfortunately, I have no manual and contacted manufacturer(s) who also have
>no information available.  The model is 2082.  If anyone out there has one
>of these or has manuals I would appreciate hearing from you.
>Or ANY info. 
>
>Or do you know of anyone or perhaps any trade school that still may be using
>this.  It seems like a great tool.
>
>Email :    mcavana@nwu.edu
>
>Thanks in advance for help.
>
>Maur

Are you sure you spoke to the right people at Yates?
I just related a story here a couple of months ago about Yates sending
me info on a planer that was first sold in 1942.  The people
there were incredible.  They made Delta look like Sears.

They sent me photocopies, which I assumed to mean that they keep
everything on file somewhere...

Here's the URL for the DejaNews archive of the posting:

http://xp7.dejanews.com/getdoc.xp?recnum=9282666&server=dnserver.db96q5&CONTEXT=859932829.19768&hitnum=0

-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
--------------------------------------------------------



From dbailey@bnr.ca Wed Apr  2 12:14:47 EST 1997
Article: 193924 of rec.woodworking
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From: dbailey@bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue vs screwing large top on Cabinet ?
Date: 1 Apr 1997 21:09:35 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Lines: 124
Message-ID: <5hrtif$ir6@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>
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If I'm clear on what you're describing here, you can do better.

If you are using all solid wood, as you seem to be, you need to make
sure that you don't have any cross-grain joints.  This is fairly easy
on a cabinet as you describe: grain on the sides goes up/down,
grain on top and bottom go left/right.  Need to fuss a bit with the
back (more on this later).

The reason for this is that wood expands and contracts with the
changing seasons, and doesn't do it evenly.  It doesn't change much at
all with the grain, but changes quite signficantly across the grain.

So, for example, if you were to join two pieces of wood like:

         ----
         |  |_______
         |  |      |
         |  |______|
         |  |
         ----

where the grain runs the lengths of the boards, you would run into
problems.  Along the glue line, the left board would be relatively
stable (it would expand and contract perpendicular to the glue line,
but the glue line itself would remain stable), but the right board
would move (the right board will grow wider with increased humidity,
narrower with decreased humidity).  This will eventually break the
glue bond.

So, make sure that when you build this thing, you don't introduce any
cross grain joints.  Easy to do for the sides and bottoms, but for the
back you need to be careful.  Many people use plywood for the back to
avoid this problem: plywood is quite stable in all dimensions.

An alternate for plywood for the back is to use thin tounge-and-groove
boards linked together.  Nail these in place so that they can move
with the seasons.  If you are building this cabinet in the drier part
of your year, make sure the boards are spaced out a little so that
when they expand with higher humidity they won't force your cabinet
sides apart.

Another problem: your joinery.  If this piece is going to be put under
any stress, you can do better than a dado or rabbett joint.  These
joints are not very strong because they don't depend entirely on the
glue bond for their strength, but they don't present a lot of face
grain for the glue to stick to.  Gluing end grain just doesn't work
very well.

I would suggest dovetails for the bottom (where your sides and bottom
meet edge-to-edge), and wedged through mortise & tenon joints for the
top (where your side edges meet the face of the top).  These joints
are superior to dado/rabbett joints because they provide both
mechanical strength and more face grain gluing area.

If you don't want to tackle the more complicated joints, you can use
screws.  But, if you use blocks inside the corners, you are
introducing cross-grain glue joints.  The person who suggested this
probably didn't realize you were working with solid wood, or maybe
does not have much experience him/herself with solid wood.  Instead of
using blocks, screw through the top and bottom into the sides.
Obviously you'll have to somehow plug the holes on the top at least.

I would suggest that if you use the dado/rabbett/screw approach that
you also use a plywood back.  A plywood back glued into place will
lend a lot of strength to the cabinet.  If you want to use the
tounge/groove boards (a better-looking solution IMO), you must use
stronger joinery at the corners.

As for finishing, well, each to their own.  But in my house you'd be
harrassed for using a thick polyurethane finish on something like
this.  I would suggest that you experiment with some alternatives
before you finish your masterpiece.

In article <5hrg38$q6r$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com> you write:
>Hi,
>
>I'm a relative newbie starting my first major (for me anyway)
>project.  I'm going to build the following out of 3/4" Red Oak.
>
>Free standing cabinet:
>
>	o solid wood slab construction (glued panels)
>	o case approx 48" wide and 16" deep
>	o top approx 1" wider and deeper
>	o two doors
>	o solid divider (will also serve as the inside 'stop/rest'
>	  for the doors).
>
>I'm planning on rabbeting the base, back, and sides and then glueing these
>four pieces solid.  The divider will sit in a dado on the base but not be
>glued to the back.
>
>Originally I was planning to cut dado's/grooves into the top and then glueing
>the sides and back directly into these cuts. The grain on the top and back will
>be horizontal and vertical on the sides.  To my untrained (uneducated ?) eye
>these joints would be really solid and basically last forever.
>
>HOWEVER, I've been told that I should NOT glue but use something like screw 
>blocks in the four inside corners that would be both screwed to the
>sides/back and to the top.  The reason I was given is that the sides will
>expand outward when the humidity increases here (Massachusetts) in the
>summer and basically tear the top apart...
>
>With screws I'll be worried that they won't stand up over time since this is
>going to be one heavy beast after it's done.
>
>Also, for what it's worth, I was planning on 3 or so coats of a polyurethane
>finish for durability.
>
>Comment and suggestions will be most welcome.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Peter Neil.
>






-- 
Doug Bailey
(dbailey@nortel.ca)


From aldenm@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:48 EST 1997
Article: 193925 of rec.woodworking
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From: Alden Miller <aldenm@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Howard County, MD Woodworkers Guild
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:04:50 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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The next meeting of the Howard County Woodworkers Guild is this coming
Saturday at 10:00 AM.  Stop by if you are in the area.  If you need
directions or just want to find out more about us please stop by our web
site at http://www.paltech.com/woodworkers.


From rodn@sundae.triumf.ca Wed Apr  2 12:14:49 EST 1997
Article: 193926 of rec.woodworking
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From: rodn@sundae.triumf.ca (Rod B. Nussbaumer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Countertop cutting board inlay
Date: 1 Apr 1997 23:18:02 GMT
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Dear WouldWurkers:

I am planning to build a new kitchen countertop, and would like some 
advice on an idea I have.  The countertop will be a particle board or 
plywood substrate, with laminate top, and hardwood edging.  What I 
would also like is a hardwood (maple) cutting board inlaid into the 
counter. I am thinking the inlay should sit about 1/8" proud of the 
surrounding laminate. 

I am concerned that there are some serious problems with this plan.  
The two main problems that I see are:

1. The problem of sealing the joint between the wood and the countertop 
   substrate, to prevent water migrating in and destroying the substrate.

2. The problem of cross grain expansion of the inlay, within it's cutout.

The first problem I see as a matter of selecting the correct adhesive/
filler to mount the inlay in.  In addition, I have considered the 
possibility of inlaying a sub-substrate of solid wood, within the 
countertop.  The joint between this piece and the particle board/plywood 
substrate would be entirely concealed by the top layer of laminate.  The 
exposed inlay would then be mounted to that.

The second problem I can see a possible solution to, by first 
manufacturing the cutting board, probably an endgrain-up design, 
and then pre-saturate it in mineral oil, with the intention of having 
maximally expanded at installation.  Moisture content should probably 
be maintained by day to day use, supplemented by occasional oil 
treatments, as necessary.

An alternative solution to the expansion problem would be to use a kind 
of raised panel design, if I could think of a way to do it without 
having any kind of exposed groove or channel to collect food and glop.  
Another thought is to inlay it on three sides only, with the front edge 
exposed at the counter edge, thus allowing it to expand beyond the counter 
edge.

I am looking for some opinions on this plan; particularly solutions to 
the problems I've already thought of, and other problems I haven't 
thought of.  Perhaps this is a seriously bad idea, and should be just 
abandoned altogether.

Thanks in advance, folks.

        ---   rod.

-- 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Rod Nussbaumer, Programmer/Technologist     Internet: bomr@triumf.ca  
 TRIUMF --- University of British Columbia,     Phone: (604)222-7449
 Vancouver, BC, Canada.                           FAX: (604)222-7307
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



From pjrose@servtech.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:49 EST 1997
Article: 193927 of rec.woodworking
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From: pjrose@servtech.com (P. Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lindon Wood?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:41:53 -0500
Organization: Rose Family
Lines: 16
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In article <334043d5.2039265@news.smart.net>, wood at smart.net wrote:

>        Friend has a Lindon tree in his yard coming down.  Base girth is
>~30 inches.  Asked me what good it is cut up, I said I Dunno.  Anybody
>have an idea?
>
>        He thinks it's close to bass wood, maybe nice to carvers...
>
If by Lindon, you meant Linden, then it may be what's known as "American
Linden", which is also called basswood. Basswood is considered an
excellent wood for carving, and carvers pay a pretty good price for large
blocks of this wood. You might find a local dealer who'd cut it up and
haul it away for "free" if it's a nice size tree. Someone might even pay
something for it.

Phil Rose


From Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com Wed Apr  2 12:14:50 EST 1997
Article: 193928 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:25:19 -0700
Organization: SRI Consulting
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <33416116.15EF@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193928

Garrett Lambert wrote:
> 
> Serious question: what's a "French drain"?


Garrett,

A french drain is a trench around the perimeter of a home to remove
subterrainean water.  The trench is normally made one to two feet below
the depth of the footings.  Note that it is important that the trench
not cut into the soil in the cone of compression under the
foundation/footing.  The zone of compression is an area beneath the
footing that extends downward at a 45 degree angle.   I digress.  

The trench is lined with a permeable cloth (I think it's called
landscaper's cloth, or something like that).  Then a layer of gravel,
then perforated drainage pipe (with the holes down), then more gravel
added until the gravel is, say, a foot below grade.  Then the cloth is
closed over the gravel, then dirt added to get back up to grade. 
Reseed, and you are done.  Note that the drainage pipe should slope 1/4"
per foot or so to insure drainage.  Drain to an appropriate reservoir or
sump pump.  Properly installed, they're supposed to last about 30
years.  

Also,  according to the paperwork I got on installing french drains, you
shouldn't have the roof drain lines go directly into the drain pipe, but
rather should be run into seperate, non-perforated pipe, not joining the
lines until you are at least 10 feet from the foundation.  This
eliminates the chance that the roof drains might saturate or overflow
the french drainage system. 

Why do I know all of this?  Let's just say that I'm in the process of
buying a new house and, as a result of the mechanical inspection, I'll
be renting a trencher and killing my back before winter comes again,
putting in about 200 feet of these critters.  At least no permits are
required.  (:-(

Dave Druckerman

P.S. Why is it called a french drain?  I haven't a clue, only
politically incorrect snide remarks.


From gvaughn@jeffco.k12.co.us Wed Apr  2 12:14:51 EST 1997
Article: 193929 of rec.woodworking
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From: "G. Vaughn" <gvaughn@jeffco.k12.co.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Setting TS Rip Fence
Date: 1 Apr 1997 23:07:19 GMT
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A friend and fellow woodworker (an ol' timer) once showed me how to set a
table saw fence for less bind or kickback.  After getting the arbor (blade)
parallel to the miter slots and setting the miter gauge accurately to 90
degrees, you set the rip fence so that it is approximately .002 wide at the
back of the table with respect to the front edge of the table.  In other
words, the trailing edge of the fence has a little clearance with respect
to the front edge.  I use a feeler gauge to set this offset from a  piece
of wood clamped to the miter gauge.

I recently purchased a Jet table saw to replace my 35 year old Craftsman
(actually I kept my old saw -- couldn't bring myself to part company with
an old friend).  I initially set up the saw per instructions, but after a
few cuts reset the fence with a little clearance.  Much better.

Any one else set their fence this way?

Ken Vaughn



From peterson@205.252.116.10 Wed Apr  2 12:14:52 EST 1997
Article: 193930 of rec.woodworking
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From: Peterson <peterson@205.252.116.10>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:  wood question (Maple)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:56:41 -0500
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Assuming that we are talking about thousands of dollars worth of maple,
which is likely, you can get a "chain saw sawmill" and do your own rough
cuts, then plane down to size.  There are probably lots of woodworkers
in the area who would help for some of the product.

Good luck.  Always nice to turn a tree you know into useful lumber, if
it comes to that.

Steve


From keyser@nowhere.org Wed Apr  2 12:14:53 EST 1997
Article: 193931 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Keyser Sose" <keyser@nowhere.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Best Reciprocating Saw ??
Date: 1 Apr 1997 23:28:05 GMT
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The Hands Down Winner when it comes to Recip Saws is the Porter-Cable
#9737.  Check it out.


Dave Druckerman <Druckerman@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<3340B34A.1E0C@worldnet.att.net>...
> Note that in a lot of cases B&D's industrial line is the same as Dewalt
> (they're the same company).
> 
> Dave Druckerman
> 
> > Richard O'Brien wrote:
> > 
> > I've got a B&D "Industrial" saw that I've been using for 5-6 years
> > without any problems what so ever.  B&D like a lot of other
manufacturers
> > have 3 separate lines of tools, DIY, Professional and Industrial. 
These
> > are from cheapest (low quality) to expensive (but worth it IMO).
> > 
> > Rick
> 


From Brigitte@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:54 EST 1997
Article: 193932 of rec.woodworking
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From: Brigitte <Brigitte@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ipe, Lapacho, Pau Lope
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:52:05 -0500
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Does anyone know the best way to keep this very dense wood from fading
to silver when used outside? It's too dense to take a water seal and
tung oil doesn't offer much UV protection?


From bfortlag@EOS.HITC.COM Wed Apr  2 12:14:54 EST 1997
Article: 193933 of rec.woodworking
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From: Barry Fortlage <bfortlag@EOS.HITC.COM>
Subject: Norm's ViceGrips
Lines: 6
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193933

As an avid "Norm watcher," I noticed a set of ViceGrip-like clamps he's used
to hold together wood pieces temporarily.  These clamps have a bar extention
on which slides one of the griping parts, making the clamps adjustable.
This bar appears to have grooves much like the bars from the Bessey clamps.
Anyone used these clamps and perhaps know where one might purchase a pair?

barry


From ebender@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:55 EST 1997
Article: 193934 of rec.woodworking
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From: ebender <ebender@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: NEW WEB PAGE
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 19:01:34 -0500
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Check out My New Web Page At
http://www.angelfire.com/nj/albender/index.html
Please Write Me and tell me what you think
ebender@erols.com or alan91@hotmail.com


From izzicat@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:56 EST 1997
Article: 193935 of rec.woodworking
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From: Izzi <izzicat@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A little humor...
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 19:11:14 -0500
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Been lurking for a number of months.  Every once in a while someone posts
somthing that gets a chuckle... Thought someone out here might appreciate
this.

The neighbor was having a backyard shed built by one of those firms that
frequent the home shows.  I was fascinated by some of the shortcuts
that the guy building it was taking.  I couldn't tell if he was trying
to impress the crowd of gawkers (myself included) or what.

Anyway, he had just free-handed a cutout for a 2 foot x 3 foot window.
On a ladder, above his head. 
Cut it with a Skil saw, no straight edge, and THEN framed the openning with 
2X4's.  The neighbor had the audacity(sp?) to take a level to the cut-out.
I waited for the builder to go ballistic.  To his credit, the cut was
ALMOST perfect.  So the neighbor sez, 'Gee, that took skill'.  

The reply?

'No, it's a Makita'


For what it's worth...

^    ^
 izzi


From mmirra@peoples.it Wed Apr  2 12:14:57 EST 1997
Article: 193936 of rec.woodworking
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From: mmirra@peoples.it (Massimiliano Mirra)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Searching Titebond or Hide glue in Italy!
Date: 02 Apr 97 00:41:19
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  Help!

  I urgently need Titebond/ Titebond II or strong hide glue (it is for
harpmaking), but I couldn't find it here in Italy. Any Italian woodworker/
instrument maker out there who can give me a clue?

  My E-Mail is: mmirra@benevento.peoples.it

  Thanks!

    Massimiliano Mirra





From madrona@prostar.com Wed Apr  2 12:14:58 EST 1997
Article: 193937 of rec.woodworking
From: "Phil Anderson" <madrona@prostar.com>
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Steve,

I'm not an expert, but I think you are risking "polarity reversal" by
draining the batteries that far.  Safer, I think, is to run them until you
are not receiving the expected performance from your drill or whatever. 
Then, just charge them normally.  Another key point here is to be sure of
the ambient temperature in the charging area.  It should be something like
60 to 100 degrees, or thereabouts.

Good Luck

Phil
-- 
Located In The Woods of Beautiful Bonney Lake Washington

Steve Swihart <swiharts@sprynet.com> wrote in article
<33402fc3.17216766@news.sprynet.com>...
> Hello.
> 
> I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
> years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
> charge they take doesn't last very long.
> 
> I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
> time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
> does.  Is this true?
> 
> FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
> charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
> they're home tools.
> 
> TIA.
> 
> -Steve
> 


From sbrews@mastnet.net Wed Apr  2 12:14:59 EST 1997
Article: 193938 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Brewster <sbrews@mastnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:31:02 -0600
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Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
> hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
> they of any benefit?

I purchased a $15 honing guide from Grizzly and a $15 one from Stanley.
Couldn't get the Grizzly one to hold a 1/4" chisel securely. The Stanley
was better in that regard but I easily overtightened it and popped the
rubber tightening grommets out.  Stone thickness is not an issue with
these types of honing guides.  Had my eye on the Veritas model - looks
more substantial.  For now, I'm just doing it by feel;first on the
grinding wheel and then on a coarse carborundum stone and flip over to
the fine side to finish up.  Gives me a very sharp edge that seems to
work well.

Good Luck!
Steve


From rbowles96@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:00 EST 1997
Article: 193939 of rec.woodworking
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From: rbowles96@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
Date: 2 Apr 1997 00:36:12 GMT
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In article <33414EAA.41C67EA6@cldx.com>, John O'Brien <obrien@cldx.com> writes:

>this time
>they are sending me (swap) a new jig. My last discussion with PC
>technical service
>revealed that they NEVER had any problems with their templates on this
>jig so I
>kind of doubt my unit is defective, but we'll see.
>Anybody else have this type of problems?
>
>John
>
>

Don't have either one but do have a Reliant (I think).  Had same problem, when finally adjusted where they would fit they were wimpy!  Gathering dust!


From drhoades@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:01 EST 1997
Article: 193940 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David L. Rhoades" <drhoades@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta tablesaws - what is difference in product line
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 19:49:53 -0600
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I called Delta and they answered this question for me, as "well, we cut
on a few corners to lower the price".  Not very specific.  The motor, I
believe, is the same.  BTW, if you decide on the cheaper saw (which I,
nor anyone else will recommend), you might want to call William Alden as
they were having a clearance on the 34-670 for $293.00 + $10.00
shipping.  1-800-249-8665.  Be careful.
-- 
#################################################################
#       David L. Rhoades             drhoades@erols.com         #
#       Gainesville, VA                                         #
#################################################################


From fjdake@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:02 EST 1997
Article: 193941 of rec.woodworking
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From: David W Hare <fjdake@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: installing crown moulding
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 19:41:10 -0500
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I would like all the info I can get on how to cut and install crown 
moulding.     Thanks
		 David


From glendoc@interport.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:03 EST 1997
Article: 193942 of rec.woodworking
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From: glendoc@interport.net (Sal Marino)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneer from Constantines
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 00:30:43 GMT
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*~reddevil@ix.netcom.com (#10 Ox) wrote:

>Constantines, eh?  They have a store in Manhattan?  I went by while
>visiting.  There was one other customer, being helped in buying a single
>handsaw by 3 sales people who were too busy with this to help me. If that
>is the service in person, how well would mail order work?  TS
>--"Sufficiently advanced cluelessness is indistiguishable from malice"
>--"Truly, wealth, which men spend all their lives in acquiring, is a
>--valueless thing at the last."  Haggard
>--"This...is...from......Matilda...."  Leon
>--"There are no lies in chess"
>--reddevil@ix.netcom.com   http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/2110
>--...I get the uneasy feeling that Bill Gates now controls the horizontal and the vertical...
>   Craig Sauls via n.g.
I think you have your companys mixed up.  Constantine's is not in
Manhattan,  Also Constantine's showroom never has only one person in
it.  Are you sure you didn't get them mixed up with Garrett Wade which
is in Manhattan.



From acroii@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:04 EST 1997
Article: 193943 of rec.woodworking
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From: acroii@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: 2 Apr 1997 01:03:45 GMT
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In article <3340cabd.243512598@news.asianet.net.hk>, garrett@asianet.net.hk (Garrett Lambert) writes:

>Serious question: what's a "French drain"?
>
>

Serious answer:  This is simply drain tile placed around an underground foundation (basement) either running to a sump where water can be pumped out or piped to a lower location (ravine).  This
provides an easy path for excess ground water keeping the basement dry.

Boy!  Has this thread ever strayed.

Regards,

Tom D


From bartling@innercite.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:04 EST 1997
Article: 193944 of rec.woodworking
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From: bartling@innercite.com (Floyd)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FS Leigh Dovetail Jig
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 00:18:57 GMT
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My neighbor has unused Leigh Dovetail jig (paid $450). Sell for $350.
Has video and bits.  Email bartling@innercite.com for phone number
(Calif)


From mschw04@emory.edu Wed Apr  2 12:15:05 EST 1997
Article: 193945 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Schwarz <mschw04@emory.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 19:50:57 -0500
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I tried the veritas honing guide and I returned it.  It was hard to keep
my chisel perpindicular while clamping them down.  I bought a honing guide
that clamps the chisels/plane irons on the sides.  This way the surface
being sharpened remains square to the rest of the iron.  (Hold the iron to
a try square and there are no light gaps)  The honing guide I bought was
>from  Woodcraft (#03A21) for 14.99 plus S&H.  1-800-225-1153.  the only bad
thing is you can't sharpen skew chisels

Hope this helps,
Mike

if you need more clarification, just ask. 



From djf3rd@xpipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:07 EST 1997
Article: 193946 of rec.woodworking
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From: djf3rd@xpipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's ViceGrips
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:11:21 GMT
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If those are the style I think,yes they are from the Vice-Grip co.
I believe they have been around for 'bout 8yrs. now.
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
Remove X to reply


From ohiorose@bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:07 EST 1997
Article: 193947 of rec.woodworking
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From: ohiorose@bright.net (Mary Jo Wiley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Manual
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:13:59 GMT
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I have a manual for a model 113.29410 Radial 100 that I purchased in
1966. I assume that this is similiar to the model 113.29000 that you
have. I would be happy to send you a photocopy at no charge if you
would e-mail to me your mailing address.

Norm Wiley
ohiorose@bright.net 
jedo@ix.netcom.com (Joe Doyle) wrote:
>"Brian Palermo" <bpalermo@sprintmail.com> wrote:

>>I have a Craftsman Radial 100 model 113.29000 but no manual. Can anyone
>>help me out?

>Try this outfit in Utah:
>	Manuals Plus

>	TEL: 801.882.7188





From slh2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:08 EST 1997
Article: 193948 of rec.woodworking
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Subject: Re: More points to ponder
Date: 2 Apr 1997 01:33:26 GMT
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As an atm servicer, have you ever thought of a taxi bringing a blind
customer to the site, but do not feel bad, I had to give this one some
thougt before putting them on.


From lec@longview.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:09 EST 1997
Article: 193949 of rec.woodworking
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From: lec@longview.net (Len Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:34:44 GMT
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Steve, Chris has given you accurate information except for running the
drill until it wont turn any more.  Each of your batteries is made up
of 8 individual cells of 1.2V each connected in series (the same
current passes thru each) and these cells are not matched in capacity.
When your drill starts to lose power this signifies that the cell with
the lowest capacity has run down.  If you continue to to use power at
this point the remaining cells will force current thru the depleted
cell in the discharge direction.  This is one of the two main causes
of damage to a NiCad battery, the other is heat.  If you could get to
the terminals of each cell and discharge them individually you could
run them completely down without damage.  But since they are in series
this is not possible.  I run my 12V unit only until there is no doubt
that the battery is discharged.  Then I usually wait till the next day
to recharge so there is no chance of overheating.  Since I have two
batteries, this allows me to continue using the tool.

There is some mis-information about the memory that can be exhibited
by NiCad batteries when they are discharged to exactly the same point
repeatedly.  This memory is difficult to demonstrate because the
cutoff point must be very precise and requires accurate laboratory
instruments to reproduce.  The loss of capacity generaly attributed to
memory is actually a voltage depression caused by overcharging.  There
are few chargers that are capable of properly charging a NiCad.
During charging, a battery will exhibit a slight dip in voltage just
after full charge is reached.  Some of the more expensive chargers
(for model cars and planes) will sense this dip in voltage and shut
off at this point.  But these units generaly cost more than your
drill, charger and battery.

Heat in a battery can be caused by charging or discharging at a high
rate.  If this heat is excessive it will cause the internal gasses to
escape through a vent provided for this purpose, without this the
battery would explode if it had sufficient heat.  I have overcharged
batteries until they boil and bubble liquid out this vent.  After
venting the capacity will be reduced.

A NiCad battery may be trickle charged indefinately as long as the
charging current does not exceed 1/10th the rating of the battery.
For example, an 1800mAh battery could be left on a trickle charge of
180 mA.  However, about 80% of that value would be sufficient to keep
the battery in top charge condition and ready to go with full
capacity.  The problem with the chargers that automatically switch to
trickle is that if the power goes off they come back on at full charge
and the battery is already charged.  Without the trickle charge the
battery will lose most of its charge in a few months.  So most people
stick them back in the timed charger and overcharge them again.

I agree with Chris, your batteries have served you well, time for new
ones.  Hope this helps you to understand what to watch for with your
cordless tools.

Len Collins
Retired Electrical Engineer
Now flying electric model planes
and malforming wood
--------------------------------------
On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 23:09:09 -0500, bigchris@pagesz.net wrote:

>Steve Swihart wrote:
>> 
>> Hello.
>> 
>> I have 3 9.6V Makita batteries.  One is 6 years old, 2 more are 5
>> years old.   Those babies never charge all the way any more and the
>> charge they take doesn't last very long.
>> 
>> I've heard rumors they can be "recycled" by draining them for a long
>> time across a resistor and charging them differently than the charger
>> does.  Is this true?
>>
>Probably not in your case.  Nicad batteries are designed for a finite
>number of charge/discharge cycles (I believe typically 500) and yours
>are most likely just at end of life.  Batteries used in a drill are
>subject to a lot of heating when the drill is loaded heavily and that
>accelerates the drying out of the chemicals in the battery.  Once that
>happens, nothing you can do externally will help.
>
>> FWIW, I drain the battery until the drill won't turn at all before
>> charging.  Is this correct procedure?  I don't use them every day,
>> they're home tools.
>> 
>Sounds right to me.  I'd also let them cool down before recharging.  I
>have the same Makita batteries (and maybe drill) and I'll be well
>satisfied if mine last 5 years!
>
>Chris



From djensen@madison.tds.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:10 EST 1997
Article: 193950 of rec.woodworking
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From: djensen@madison.tds.net (David Jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:37:33 GMT
Organization: Pesonal Use
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In article <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca>,
geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca says...
>
>We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
>replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
>Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gene

<Assume_serious_post>

I hate to say this, but some areas have outlawed these lovely old
edifices, or at least forbidden the construction of new ones. I am not
at all familiar with Canadian rules, but I suspect that you will have to
check with the local authorities before building.

</Assume_serious_post>


From rhjdh1j@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:11 EST 1997
Article: 193951 of rec.woodworking
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From: "RKJ@CATS" <rhjdh1j@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 2 Apr 1997 01:57:28 GMT
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BYE AMERICAN

rbowles96@aol.com wrote in article
<19970328143400.JAA25052@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>,
winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) writes:
> 
> >
> >So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
> >people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
> >comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Ted
> >
> >-- 
> >Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead  
|http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
> >winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
> >Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 
> >
> >
> 
> My BT3000 is 5 years old and I appreciate the portability it lends.  I
could not have a saw in the middle of the garage so it gets "parked"
against the wall almost every night.  Use DEJANEWS to find
> the summary evaluation by 8 owners of the saw and some accessories. 
E-mail if you can't find.  One in the local paper with outfeed and side
tables for $400.  Someone is unhappy.
> 


From bgiven@exis.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:12 EST 1997
Article: 193952 of rec.woodworking
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From: bgiven@exis.net (Bruce W. Given)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Mitre jig assistance, please
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:58:57 GMT
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Books and magazines offer an abundance of suggestions for mitre joint
jigs for picture-frame type joints, i.e., cutting the 45° angle across
the width dimension.  I cannot figure a safe jig for cutting the 45°
angle across the thickness dimension.  Imagine I have a 1x4 length of
wood-- there are lots of plans for "picture frame" jigs but none for
"shadow box"  jigs.   My stock will be no thicker than ľ" but up to 5"
in width. I find the arbor tilt on my cabinet saw a less than precise
way for getting the angle for repetitive precision work.  I would
greatly appreciate hearing of cites for a shop-made jig for table saw,
hand held router, router table, or stationary disc sander.  I had
thought of a shooting table for a hand plane but then I realized the
problems a shifting iron would cause in maintaining a precise 45°.
Thank you for your consideration of this problem.



From matbas@flash.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:12 EST 1997
Article: 193953 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matt Bashore <matbas@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoke Alarm sounds off from Dust?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:05:57 -0600
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There are two common types of smoke detector  manufactured today.  The
ionization type and the photoelectric type.  I am guessing that you have
a photoelectric smoke detector installed in your basement.  The easiest
way to describe the operation of a photoelectric smoke detector is think
of the sensing chamber of the detector as being painted flat black.  On
one side of the chamber is a  light source.  On the other side of the
chamber is a photocell (looking for light).  There is a wall partially
across the sensing chamber blocking the light from reaching the
photocell. Since the walls of the chamber are painted black, than no
light is reaching the photocell.  When there is an actual fire, the
smoke enters the chamber and reflects the light from the light source in
the chamber into the photocell.  The problem with a common photoelectric
smoke detectors (Photoelectric is considered faster detecting and more
reliable than ionization detectors) is that it can not tell the
difference between smoke, dust, and steam.  The solution is to move the
detector into an area that is cleaner than your work shop.  I would not
recommend that you cover the detector temporarily because you may forget
to uncover the detector and you will be without protection.
Many commercial fire alarm systems have detectors that are more
intelligent  than the residencial detector, but they need a fire alarm
control panel to perform properly.

Matt Verrochi wrote:

  On 27 Mar 1997 13:07:53 GMT, pwcnva2@norfolk.infi.net (pwcnva2)
  wrote:

  >In article <33395B3C.4127@aloha.com>,
  >>> Twas down in the basement ripping away with my new saw when the
  smoke
  >>> alarm went off.  Neither the motor or the belt was hot.  No
  apparent
  >>> reason for the Smoke Dector to sound an alarm.  Does anway have
  any
  >>> input to offer?

  As far as suggestions go: I'd move the detector, get some type of
  "filter" like a rag or whatever to cover the detector
  temporarily.  If the air is that dense, you're wearing a dust mask,
  right?

   Matt

  Verrochi@tiac.net
  RC Cars, Parts and Radios for Sale at:
            http://www.tiac.net/users/verrochi/RCSALE.htm





From caseyjr@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:13 EST 1997
Article: 193954 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Casey " <caseyjr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone used PEELAWAY Paint Stripper?
Date: 2 Apr 1997 02:22:33 GMT
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Ted,
If all's you got is shellac, why use peel-away? It's mainly for removing up
to 20 coats of paint. Shellac is singularly simple to dissolve with
denatured alcohol. You may instead use a liquid stripper, or citrus based
'safe stripper' if so inclined. 
If you want to sample the effect of peel-away, mix up a bit of lye, water,
and corn starch, and apply to an inconspicuous spot, like a baseboard
behind a door, and see what that does. If it doesn't turn the redwood
black, and you don't mind having to rinse with water and neutralize with
vinegar, then peel-away may be the thing for you. (or you could just keep
going with the lye and save $40.)
Casey

Ted Claire <fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu> wrote in article
<5hs39t$2ht@agate.berkeley.edu>...
> Has anyone any experience using the Dumond Chemical Co. Peelaway paint
> stripping system?  I am trying to remove a coat of 80-year old shellac
> from redwood panelling and molding.  Is this stuff available in a
> sample kit so I don't have to buy $40 worth to see if it works?  Your
> experiences would be helpful to me.  Thanks
> 
> Ted Claire
> 
> 


From drhoades@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:14 EST 1997
Article: 193955 of rec.woodworking
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From: "David L. Rhoades" <drhoades@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: radial saw adjustment
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:44:34 -0600
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I just bought a 32-gallon Craftsman wet/dry vac for $40 and ordered
parts to fix it (another $22, lid was bent and plastic leg protector). 
Asked about the manual - $5.99, plus tax and shipping.  Thought that was
a bit outrageous and didn't bite.
-- 
#################################################################
#       David L. Rhoades             drhoades@erols.com         #
#       Gainesville, VA                                         #
#################################################################


From Odeen@cris.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:15 EST 1997
Article: 193956 of rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:33:41 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193956

On 31 Mar 1997, Steven Bakalis wrote:

> stev (fuzz@nut.wood) wrote:
> : In article <859612079.128735@optional.cts.com>, bakalis@cts.com says...
> 
> If and when your workbech gets chipped, scratched, and generally
> mutilated, you'll need to do more to repair it than recoat the surface
> with a little danish oil. With polyurathane if the gouge and or scratch
> is deep you can pour the stuff in and fill the opening until it is
> level with the surface and let it dry. You can't do this with an oil
> finish.

Can you do it with PU? I've had very bad luck trying to apply thick PU
finishes in one "pour". This might work with epoxy.

What I look for in a bench finish is something that will resist glue
spills long enough for me to wipe them off, and something that gives the
bench just a little lustre. It is, after all, a bench. Pure tung oil meets
those criteria.



From spl1@nojunkerols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:16 EST 1997
Article: 193957 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table-mounted router switch
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:41:33 -0500
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Jim Schlee wrote:
> 
> Not even remotely resembling an electrician, I hope someone can help me
> with this problem...
> 
> I have a Makita 3612C mounted in an extension table on my Delta CS. I
> picked up a Delta new-style on/off TS switch (cheap) that I planned on
> using for the router (plug the switch into an outlet, plug the router
> into the short female cord on the switch, lock the router switch to 'on'
> & use the Delta switch to control the router on/off). I had to cut off &
> replace the female plug on the Delta switch - it was made for their TS
> motor & looks like the type used for a computer power cord:
> 
>                         ---      instead of:     O
>                     ---     ---                |   |
> 
> (hope you get the idea). The router works fine except the electric brake
> doesn't work when plugged into the switch - router works fine when
> plugged straight into the same outlet the TS switch is plugged into.
> 
> I'm lost - any ideas???
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim
As a general practice, if the wire is color coded under the jacket, it
would be black is hot, white is neutral, green is ground. For a plug hot
goes to the wide blade, neutral to the narrow blade, and ground to the
round blade.


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:17 EST 1997
Article: 193958 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3341CA52.41E5@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:54:10 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
Reply-To: jay@rpltd.com
Organization: REsource Partners
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: If you were NORM would you POST HERE ????
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193958

Chuck, Riccardo wrote:
> 
> Okay, how about it? If you were Norm, would you post to this news group???

With all the people here who say unkind things, I guess not.  

But he does not seem to be very web-oriented.  As you know, there is no
web site, nothing on the PBS-Boston page, you cannot order videos on
line, etc.

I found a FAQ in the This Old House where Norm says that he has no plans
to put anything on the net.  So, don't hold your breath.

Besides, he has everything a woodworker could want.  What need does such
a millionare who does something he loves have with our approval?


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:18 EST 1997
Article: 193960 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3341C765.1B2C@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:41:41 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
Reply-To: jay@rpltd.com
Organization: REsource Partners
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Craftsman Dovetail Jig @ $160 - Anyone using it?
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193960

pwcnva2 wrote:
> 
> There is a Craftsman dovetail jig that will do through dovetails and costs
> about $160.  Is anyone using it, using it and liking it, and could I have a
> review of its performance?
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad W.

I have been using the cheaper Craftsman jig that does normal
(half-blind?) dovetails.  It cost about $40.  I built a supplemental jig
that was described in one of the woodworking magazines that helps make
it more accurate and easy to set up.

It is not a Leigh, but it is not a waste of money either.  If I had $160
for a jig, I think I would keep saving and get the Leigh.


From jtcurtis@hotcc.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:18 EST 1997
Article: 193961 of rec.woodworking
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From: "James T. Curtis" <jtcurtis@hotcc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:00:55 -0600
Organization: retired
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References: <tip-240397142520@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <5heg96$nfg@enquirer.corp.adobe.com> <01bc3b86$70b5f280$0fa685d0@rasarisi> <tip*-280397104501@shimizu.chem.ohiou.edu> <haubert.232.00119E49@mbi.org> <3340cabd.243512598@news.asianet.net.hk>
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Garrett Lambert wrote:
> 
> Serious question: what's a "French drain"?

Garrett, I believe that a French Drain is a ditch filled with coarse
gravel and covered lightly with soil. It is used to carry surface water
away from a foundation. The bottom of the ditch needs to be piched away
>from  the structure. Sometimes, the water is dumped into a covered
cistern also filled with crushed stone.
Hope this helps,
Jim


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:19 EST 1997
Article: 193962 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3341CC15.FC1@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:01:41 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
Reply-To: jay@rpltd.com
Organization: REsource Partners
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joiner Recommendations
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:193962

Troy Past wrote:
> 
> Anyone have any idea what is the best joiner for a workshop on a
> budget?  I would like to keep it cheap, but I don't want something I
> can't use very much.  I was considering the Delta Desktop Joiner.
> 
> Thanks

Before you spend $200 on a desk top, you might want to save some more. 
I got a Delta 6" floor for about $340, by shopping arround and using
rebates, etc.


From Odeen@cris.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:20 EST 1997
Article: 193963 of rec.woodworking
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From: Patrick Olguin <Odeen@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:54:09 -0500
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 shafner@webspam.net wrote:

> haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
> > Cherry looks by far the best with a plain oil finish.  Legislators are
> > currently considering a bill sponsored by O'Deen and myself to outlaw staining
> > cherry.
> >
[snip] 
>  
> "Cherry looks best . . ." What a canard! Natural, unstained cherry has
> its place, as does stained cherry as does painted cherry. It depends on
> the tastes of the designor. The notion that the wood cannot be
> beautified and that coloring it is somehow blasphemous is as silly as
> you get.
>

[some spectacular rationalizations - clear evidence that there are indeed
notions which are sillier - snipped] 

And I thought I was the best rationalizer.

It's much simpler than you think. While there may be bizarre documented
cases of the world being made a better place, and revered institutions
being saved, cherry is a wood which stands on its own. That is, with
exposure to light, it darkens, giving it a wonderful patina. What Rich,
myself, and other so-called purveyors of dogma are trying to get across is
that one not need to stain cherry. The use of hyperbole gets attention.

Despite the yarns...errr anecdotes you supplied, I believe that painting
cherry is a waste of a scarce resource. Poplar takes paint quite well.
Tints and other effects are better used on woods that don't look as
beautiful as cherry (when finished with a simple oil or oil/varnish
coating). There is no wood which looks like cherry, so why make cherry
look like something else?

As for someone else's argument that to make things match perfectly, Ethan
Allen bleaches, then tints/stains their furniture, if that's what someone
wants, then they should buy it, and leave the available cherry lumber to
those of us who appreciate its subtleties. I shudder at the millions of bd
ft of wood ruined by "designers" and their tastes. 

I visted a fellow woodworker's home last fall, and admired the simple
cherry table he made. I believe it had an oil finish. The glued-up panel
had boards of several slightly different hues. It added character to the
piece; made it look more like wood, than stamped Formica on top of
old-growth particleboard. That is a swell table, TB. I wish I'd taken a
picture of it home with me.

Death before staining....



From rywoodview@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:21 EST 1997
Article: 193964 of rec.woodworking
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From: rywoodview@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TS sliding table.
Date: 2 Apr 1997 03:07:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Rich,

Thanks a lot for writing back.  You make a good point about sigs, and I'll try a condensed version.  I too often fire something off before my brain fires on, so I can appreciate your reply.

Good to know you,
          and
Good Woodworking!          [Woops--did I just commit copyright infringement? :^) ]

             Robb
                                           'Woodview'             RYwoodview@aol.com
     Robert B. Young        Pittsford, New York            (716) 442-7830      
               +                                +                                    +
" . . . there is only one great thing --- the only thing:
 To live to see the great day that dawns,  And the light that fills the world."

+                                 +                                   +
   Robert B. Young, MD            'Woodview'
  RYwoodview@aol.com      Pittsford, New York                       
                         (716) 442-7830
+                                 +                                   +      
   " . . . there is only one great thing,
                The only thing,
           To live to see the great day that dawns
                And the light that fills the world."
                                  - - Old Inuit Song          
+                                 +                                   +                                


From dmc@cyburban.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:22 EST 1997
Article: 193965 of rec.woodworking
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From: dcm <dmc@cyburban.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: "Grass" company in Austria?
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 16:39:57 +0000
Organization: Disorganized
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Anyone know the address of the "Grass" company in Austria.
All I knpw is they make kitchen cabinet hinges.
I need an exact replacement hinge.
Anyone know of a stockist in the USA?
-- 
From: White Plains, New York, USA.




From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:23 EST 1997
Article: 193966 of rec.woodworking
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From: foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 03:25:22 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <3345d0fa.12246635@news.mindspring.com>
References: <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca> <5hr89o$97d@mozo.cc.purdue.edu> <3341adc0.5010862@news.tds.net>
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iT SHOULDN'T BE ANY HARDER TO MAKE A SAY 4 X 6 OR EVEN 4 X 4 OR
WHATEVER SIZED BUILDING, WITH AN ENCLOSURE OVER THE *DUMPING* PIT,
WITH CUTOUTS OR STOREBOUGHT  MOUNTED SEATS WITH COVERS. jUST SIMPLE
BASIC CONSTRUCTION.    Sorry about the caps, I am not yelling, only
looking at the keys to type,didn't knotice caps lock was on,  and am
too lazy to go back and change it.  accept my appology...its been a
long 18 hr day.

djensen@madison.tds.net (David Jensen) wrote:

>In article <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca>,
>geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca says...
>>
>>We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
>>replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
>>Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Gene
>
><Assume_serious_post>
>
>I hate to say this, but some areas have outlawed these lovely old
>edifices, or at least forbidden the construction of new ones. I am not
>at all familiar with Canadian rules, but I suspect that you will have to
>check with the local authorities before building.
>
></Assume_serious_post>

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From foxeye@xxmindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:24 EST 1997
Article: 193967 of rec.woodworking
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From: foxeye@xxmindspring.com (Foxeye)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: radial saw adjustment
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 03:26:30 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Just what do you expect from Sears and their Crapsman line of
junk........

"David L. Rhoades" <drhoades@erols.com> wrote:

>I just bought a 32-gallon Craftsman wet/dry vac for $40 and ordered
>parts to fix it (another $22, lid was bent and plastic leg protector). 
>Asked about the manual - $5.99, plus tax and shipping.  Thought that was
>a bit outrageous and didn't bite.
>-- 
>#################################################################
>#       David L. Rhoades             drhoades@erols.com         #
>#       Gainesville, VA                                         #
>#################################################################

Foxeye

The opinions expressed by me are mine and mine alone.  NAR 70031 TRA Someday
Take the XX out of mindspring for correct email address


From jglassco@indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:15:24 EST 1997
Article: 193968 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Glasscock <jglassco@indiana.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antiquing hardware (Hinges, screws, etc.)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:36:34 -0500
Organization: Indiana University
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Ammonium vapour works well.  Suspend your hardware over a large 
surface area (minimal depth) container of household ammonia.  Put this 
in a sealed box and let it set overnight.  You'll get a nice black 
patina.  Use caution, but this is one of the least toxic ways to 
acheive the effect you want.
-- 
Made with Macintosh•         100% Microsoft Free!
John Glasscock    at   Indiana University
mailto:jglassco@indiana.edu    Fight Back Against Spammers
$1000 charge to accept unsolicited commercial messages


From tmccrain@sprynet.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:25 EST 1997
Article: 193969 of rec.woodworking
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From: tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian countertop
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 03:32:02 GMT
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Jerry Glazman <jerryg@esslink.com> wrote:

>G Potter wrote:
>> 
>> Have the good fortune to be able to buy enough Corian ( in a color my
>> wife likes!) to redo my kitchen counters. The only hitch is that I have
>> to make several seams. Is there anyone with knowledge of joining corian
>> that would be willing to share the techniques? I would really appreciate
>> the help.
>> 
>> Please e-mail advice to gpotte@ibm.net
>> 
>> Thank you!

>Contact duPont at 1-800-4-CORIAN and ask for the free booklet "How to
>work with Corian in the home workshop". It has sections on cutting,
>edging, joining etc.

>This Old House has shown a number of projects and they join the material
>with duPont supplied epoxy kits that are color matched.

>Jerry Glazman
>jerryg at esslink.com

And PLEASE wear a respirator...

Tim



From DO NOT REPLY Wed Apr  2 12:15:26 EST 1997
Article: 193970 of rec.woodworking
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From: skipper@boat.sank (skipper)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SKIL woodworking tools:  Cheap enough - are they junky?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 03:45:10 GMT
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On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 13:55:57 GMT, Verrochi@tiac.net  (Matt Verrochi)
wrote:

>I was in the Grossamans Bargain Outlet and saw a Skil belt sander for
$40.  I'm not really impressed by the quality of the
>only other Skil product I've owned - which was a power screwdriver
which had the switch break on it.
>
>Basically, I only intend to use this occasionally, rather rarely, if
you will.  Is thing any good for light occasional use or
>should I just suck-it-up and buy somethng with decent quality for 3
times the price.
>
>Please bear in mind - this will only receive occasional, light use.
>
I have a Skill 3X18 belt sander and love it.  I'm left handed and this
is the only one I have found that I can afford and yet have NO PROBLEM
at all in balancing it, to keep it flat on the wood.  I have used it a
great deal and have no complaints.  Their power screwdrivers leave a
bit to be desired but I also have 3 of their circular saws ( 2 of the
6 1/2" and 1 of the 7 1/4")  All continue to give excellent service
and 1 of those small ones is now over 30 years old.  I did have to
replace the switch on it once.

Skipper>



From dilbert1@pipeline.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:27 EST 1997
Article: 193971 of rec.woodworking
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From: dilbert1@pipeline.com (Trevor Galvin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Countertop cutting board inlay
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 00:55:54 GMT
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It's not a bad idea. I'd  go a bit furthur and have a scrap chute to
scrape of the discards into a bin built in. I'm not too fond of
garbage disposals. I'd formica the edges of the cut out for the board.
I'd want it to be able to be pulled out for sanding down or flipping
over so I'd have it resting on a ledge. As far as sealing the gap and
expansion I'd think on the lines of "O" ring material. I'd definately
go end grain exposure. I'd mix and match hardwood blocks using hard
rock maple for the main body and cherry for an outline. I'd use a
waterproof glue and instead of soaking it in mineral oil I'd use an
oil and beeswax paste such as Skidmores. I'd brings the wood up to a
beautiful finish, smells nice and is all natural and organic.

I've made a few end grain boards, never built one in though.

While you're at it why not have you knife holders built in to the
board. You'd want a first class set of knives. I'd recommend Sabatier
of France.

Trevor (just a been there, done that, and made a few mistakes, kinda
guy).       dilbert1@pipeline.com


rodn@sundae.triumf.ca (Rod B. Nussbaumer) wrote:


>Dear WouldWurkers:

>I am planning to build a new kitchen countertop, and would like some 
>advice on an idea I have.  The countertop will be a particle board or 
>plywood substrate, with laminate top, and hardwood edging.  What I 
>would also like is a hardwood (maple) cutting board inlaid into the 
>counter. I am thinking the inlay should sit about 1/8" proud of the 
>surrounding laminate. 

>I am concerned that there are some serious problems with this plan.  
>The two main problems that I see are:

>1. The problem of sealing the joint between the wood and the countertop 
>   substrate, to prevent water migrating in and destroying the substrate.

>2. The problem of cross grain expansion of the inlay, within it's cutout.

>The first problem I see as a matter of selecting the correct adhesive/
>filler to mount the inlay in.  In addition, I have considered the 
>possibility of inlaying a sub-substrate of solid wood, within the 
>countertop.  The joint between this piece and the particle board/plywood 
>substrate would be entirely concealed by the top layer of laminate.  The 
>exposed inlay would then be mounted to that.

>The second problem I can see a possible solution to, by first 
>manufacturing the cutting board, probably an endgrain-up design, 
>and then pre-saturate it in mineral oil, with the intention of having 
>maximally expanded at installation.  Moisture content should probably 
>be maintained by day to day use, supplemented by occasional oil 
>treatments, as necessary.

>An alternative solution to the expansion problem would be to use a kind 
>of raised panel design, if I could think of a way to do it without 
>having any kind of exposed groove or channel to collect food and glop.  
>Another thought is to inlay it on three sides only, with the front edge 
>exposed at the counter edge, thus allowing it to expand beyond the counter 
>edge.

>I am looking for some opinions on this plan; particularly solutions to 
>the problems I've already thought of, and other problems I haven't 
>thought of.  Perhaps this is a seriously bad idea, and should be just 
>abandoned altogether.

>Thanks in advance, folks.

>        ---   rod.

>-- 

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Rod Nussbaumer, Programmer/Technologist     Internet: bomr@triumf.ca  
> TRIUMF --- University of British Columbia,     Phone: (604)222-7449
> Vancouver, BC, Canada.                           FAX: (604)222-7307
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~





From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:27 EST 1997
Article: 193972 of rec.woodworking
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Do All Detail Sanders Suck?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 04:03:06 GMT
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On 30 Mar 1997 18:21:06 GMT, ddawes@moscow.com (Dana Dawes) wrote:
>
>Some of my colleagues think that the saw blade for the Fein is the best 
>thing since shirt pockets.  After borrowing their blades for about a 
>year, I finally broke down and got one of my own.  I still use it a lot 
>as a sander, but the saw certainly is worth the price.
I have the Fein but not the saw attachment.  Trying it out at a WW
show left me thinking its application is very limited.  Seems like it
would be great for cutting out the bottoms of installed door jambs and
removing plaster casts.  What uses have you found for it?  dcr


From jsd@nomail.phoenix.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:28 EST 1997
Article: 193973 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Ducote <jsd@nomail.phoenix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grape vine scroll work
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:53:27 -0600
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On Mon, 31 Mar 1997, TPC wrote:
> > Antique bassenet with decorative scroll work which is broken and need
> > replacement.  anybody have a source for grape vine or an idea on how to
> > have the work done.  The scroll work is about four turns on each end.
> > 
> > Thanks  please email

Are you looking for actual grape vines or some sort of design or pattern
that mimics vine?

My parents have a vineyard (which they're trying to sell, BTW) and there
is ALWAYS vine left over after pruning (spring) and after harvest (fall).

Want to buy REAL Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, or
Merlot vine pieces? I can probably "harvest" 3-4' (possibly longer, no
promises) tendrils less than .5" diam in a month or two. They're "new
wood" so they're totally green. You're on your own as to how to dry them
and make them useful. 

Just figure out what you're willing to pay and I'll do my BEST to get you
as much as you want. Offhand guess, I could probably supply 50 lbs...but
I'm not very good at estimating these things.

And if anyone else reading is interested in an ESTABLISHED, producing
wine-grape vineyard, you can see a little bit more at:

http://www.phoenix.net/~jsd/vines

-jsd



From gof@jules.chem-eng.nwu.edu Wed Apr  2 12:15:29 EST 1997
Article: 193974 of rec.woodworking
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From: gof@jules.chem-eng.nwu.edu (Jerry Fountain)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house,alt.home.repair
Subject: Baseboard nailer - 18ga or 16/15ga??
Date: 2 Apr 1997 03:49:31 GMT
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Which would be the appropriate size nailer for baseboard type trim? We are
rehabing an old (20's) house and part of the rehab required removing much of
the old trim.  While the varnished trim was damaged (not from removal, from
water/pets/age) enough to require a fair amount of patching, it was still
nice enough to be painted and reinstalled.

As one might expect, we are quickly tiring of nailing and countersinking.
This is a triple baseboard, a 1x5 board with a cap piece and a toe mold
covering the gap for the hardwood floor.  As you might expect all the wood
is well seasoned and we have been using 2" hardwood nails and predrilling
the holes. There is also some door and window trim (again, 1x boards with
edge pieces).

We were originally thinking we needed to get a 16ga or 15ga finish nailer
based on the relative size of the nails we were using.  Looking through the
catalogs and stores though, it would appear that one of the newer 2"
capacity 18ga brad nailers would possibly do the job.  Can anyone comment on
this.  Obviously baseboards are not structural but I don't want them falling
loose if bumped a little hard.  The upside for the brads are a much smaller
hole size and the fact that the brads are much less likely to cause
splitting problems in the old wood.  The advantage of a finish nailer, at
least the 15ga size is strength and a glued nail (I haven't seen any coated
brads so I could be wrong).

Any pointers would be appreciated.  What does experience say about the
changeover from a brad nailer to a finish nailer?  I realize for something
like a window casing I'd expect 15ga to be the way to go.  For just about
anything with studs I'd say a framing nailer, but for the smaller size where
the nail itself isn't subjected to a lot of shear requiring a thicker shank,
the transition isn't too obvious.

Comments greatly appreciated.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry Fountain          | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing
gof@chem-eng.nwu.edu    | Northwestern University
(847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering
(847) 491-3728 (FAX)    | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL  60208


From jglassco@indiana.edu Wed Apr  2 12:15:30 EST 1997
Article: 193975 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Glasscock <jglassco@indiana.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem; need help
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:02:12 -0500
Organization: Indiana University
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If you already have the glue gun, take a strip of old fabric the same 
length of the skirt and do a test.  Let the glue dry and then pull on 
it, seeing how much strength you need to pull it off.  Also, look to 
see where it fails.  Does the glue hold or does the fabric tear?  The 
great thing about the glue gun is that you can reglue something if it 
comes undone.  There are also several types of glues to use in the 
gun.  Look for what you need.

Hajo Smulders wrote:
> 
>         My wife is trying to use a glue-gun to glue a 'skirt' around a sink. Basically I need to know if it is possible to use a glue gun to glue fabric against porcelain. Thank you!
> 
-- 
Made with Macintosh•         100% Microsoft Free!
John Glasscock    at   Indiana University
mailto:jglassco@indiana.edu    Fight Back Against Spammers
$1000 charge to accept unsolicited commercial messages


From lwc54@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:31 EST 1997
Article: 193976 of rec.woodworking
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From: lwc54@aol.com (LWC54)
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Subject: william alden mail order web site
Date: 2 Apr 1997 04:01:13 GMT
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go to williamalden.com


From tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us Wed Apr  2 12:15:32 EST 1997
Article: 193977 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Thomas G.Cavanagh" <tcavanag@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Setting TS Rip Fence
Date: 2 Apr 1997 03:27:14 GMT
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Yeah Ken it works for me.

G. Vaughn <gvaughn@jeffco.k12.co.us> wrote in article
<01bc3ef2$34faf140$c60162cc@pentium100>...
> A friend and fellow woodworker (an ol' timer) once showed me how to set a
> table saw fence for less bind or kickback.  After getting the arbor
(blade)
> parallel to the miter slots and setting the miter gauge accurately to 90
> degrees, you set the rip fence so that it is approximately .002 wide at
the
> back of the table with respect to the front edge of the table.  In other
> words, the trailing edge of the fence has a little clearance with respect
> to the front edge.  I use a feeler gauge to set this offset from a  piece
> of wood clamped to the miter gauge.
> 
> I recently purchased a Jet table saw to replace my 35 year old Craftsman
> (actually I kept my old saw -- couldn't bring myself to part company with
> an old friend).  I initially set up the saw per instructions, but after a
> few cuts reset the fence with a little clearance.  Much better.
> 
> Any one else set their fence this way?
> 
> Ken Vaughn
> 
> 


From schaefer@rockisland.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:33 EST 1997
Article: 193978 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:11:39 -0600
From: schaefer@rockisland.com
Subject: Re: log furniture
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <5gpaog$s2p@dg-rtp.dg.com>,
  karl@romulus.rtp.dg.com (Donald Karl) wrote:
>
> Speaking of log furniture.  Anyone have any great methods for putting
> round tenons on the end of logs.  For the sake of this question, lets
> say a 4" diam log w/ a 2" diam tenon; this is the size I used several times
> building railings.  Smaller tenons would occur more in furniture.  I
> did notice that tenon cutters (the ones that look like a funky plug cutter)
> go up to about 1" diam.  I've never use one of these.  BTW, I don't have a
> lathe.
>
> What I've done up until now is use a sawzall and follow up with a knife.
> It's ok for a few tenons, but I'm not thrilled about doing so for lots
> of tenons where I want a tight fit.

Karl:

There is a table saw jig designed for making true log tenons.  The
product is called a Tenonizer.

Tenonizer Technology
8200 Semmler Road
Nisswa, MN 56468
218-829-9046

I just purchased one but haven't had a chance to play with it yet. I'll
let you know how it works out if your interested.

Kent Schaefer


Tenonizer
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Don Karl                 karl@dg-rtp.dg.com               (919)248-5915

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From shafner@webspam.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:34 EST 1997
Article: 193979 of rec.woodworking
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From: shafner@webspam.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:26:32 -0500
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haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> 
> In article <8D5128A.0233014EAE.uuout@csoft-net.com> lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD) writes:
> >From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
> >Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
> >Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:50:00 -0600
> 
> >Cherry is used so ya dont require stain,Stain is used to make Cheap
> >woods look like expensive ones,,However if ya do use a stain lotsa luck
> >on cherry as cherry is FAMOUS for blotchiness due to density
> >digfferences in wood grain..
> >                               Lee Ward
> 
> Lee, VERY well said!
> 
> And, thanks for not referring us to the library.

Henkl-Harris, a manufacturer of $25,000 dining room sets made of SOLID
CHERRY stains their wood. Kittinger, a manufacturer of $17,000 desks
stains their cherry, walnut, mahogany and rare exotics. Hardin
Furniture, a manufacturer who has their own forests to cut their own
lumber makes solid wood high end furniture -- stained, glazed and toned!
Kindel, a manufacturer who makes high end furniture AND museum quality
reproductions (go to the mansions in Newprt, RI) stains, glazes, tones
and fly-specks their woods!

My point is (if it is not transparent enough) that nothing could be
further from the truth. Staining techniques can be used to match woods,
as well as to create an aesthetic quality to the wood. Unstained natural
wood is only ONE type of aesthetic.

If one is so purist about the wood, leave it wrapped inside the bark.
(Maybe that is the agenda of the Tree Huggers: they are so doctrinaire
about wood that utilizing any tree is blashemous to them).
-- 
(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
-------
Daniel

    / `-' )        ,,,
   | IU U||||||||[:::]
    \_.-.(         '''


From droseman@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:35 EST 1997
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From: droseman@erols.com (David Roseman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Shaper
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 04:33:21 GMT
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On 1 Apr 1997 02:55:22 GMT, QYLM60A@prodigy.com (Joseph Young) wrote:

>Anyone with experience with one of these?  Am considering one.Appreciate 
>anyone who has used one to give opinion.
>
Which one?  I've had the 3hp for a dozen years and like it fine. dcr



From lwc54@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:36 EST 1997
Article: 193981 of rec.woodworking
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From: lwc54@aol.com (LWC54)
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Subject: Re: Hats off to ToolCrib
Date: 2 Apr 1997 04:28:10 GMT
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you paid the freight. nobody ships anything for nothing. that is obvious!


From georgii1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:37 EST 1997
Article: 193982 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
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Subject: Re: Best Bandsaw under $500?
Date: 2 Apr 1997 04:32:50 GMT
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Only had my Jet for a month now - but, I'm pleased.  It was on sale for
$499, with a 25.00 in store coupon and you might check their web site - it
had a $20.00 rebate at the time.

Jolyn


From mjprusik@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:38 EST 1997
Article: 193983 of rec.woodworking
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From: Matt Prusik <mjprusik@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ipe, Lapacho, Pau Lope
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:32:03 -0500
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Brigitte:
	Insofar as I know, that "silver color" is a desired effect when 
ipe weathers.  It's intended to look like cedar.  OTOH, if you want it 
to remain dark, you might consider using another species. 
	What are you using the ipe for?
	As an aside, I sell and broker lumber and might be able to 
suggest or even off to sell an alternative species. Drop me an e-mail if 
you think I might be able to help.
	Matt




From madrona@prostar.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:39 EST 1997
Article: 193984 of rec.woodworking
From: "Phil Anderson" <madrona@prostar.com>
Subject: Re: Table-mounted router switch
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Tom, I hate to differ but the hot (black) wire goes to the narrow blade.  I
always remember "black to brass", brass being the color of the screw
attached to the narrow blade.

Regards,

Phil

Tom Corey <spl1@nojunkerols.com> wrote in article
<3341C75C.10DA@nojunkerols.com>...
> Jim Schlee wrote:
> > 
> > Not even remotely resembling an electrician, I hope someone can help me
> > with this problem...
> > 
> > I have a Makita 3612C mounted in an extension table on my Delta CS. I
> > picked up a Delta new-style on/off TS switch (cheap) that I planned on
> > using for the router (plug the switch into an outlet, plug the router
> > into the short female cord on the switch, lock the router switch to
'on'
> > & use the Delta switch to control the router on/off). I had to cut off
&
> > replace the female plug on the Delta switch - it was made for their TS
> > motor & looks like the type used for a computer power cord:
> > 
> >                         ---      instead of:     O
> >                     ---     ---                |   |
> > 
> > (hope you get the idea). The router works fine except the electric
brake
> > doesn't work when plugged into the switch - router works fine when
> > plugged straight into the same outlet the TS switch is plugged into.
> > 
> > I'm lost - any ideas???
> > 
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Jim
> As a general practice, if the wire is color coded under the jacket, it
> would be black is hot, white is neutral, green is ground. For a plug hot
> goes to the wide blade, neutral to the narrow blade, and ground to the
> round blade.
> 


From francis@islandnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:40 EST 1997
Article: 193985 of rec.woodworking
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From: francis@islandnet.com (Frank Tosczak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: I need a word  for "decoupage" with wood
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:40:34 -0800
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In article <333A9470.3C8A@guillemot-kayaks.com>,
Schade@guillemot-kayaks.com wrote:

> JBS213 wrote:
> > =
> 
> > If it's inlaid, it would be "marquetry" -- similar to parquet flooring.
> > Don't know what you'd call it if it's truly just glued on as paper is in
> > decoupage.
> 
> I am trying to choose between decoupage, marquetry, and intarsia.
> 

Why not use "applied" as in "applied moulding" because that's what you're
doing.  If you want to make it sound fancy, "applique" ?

-- 
francis@islandnet.com   
Frank Tosczak


From jhparkhill@sihope.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:41 EST 1997
Article: 193986 of rec.woodworking
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From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <jhparkhill@sihope.com>
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Subject: Re: Straight holes in long boards
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A piece of scrap prepared on the drill press can work as an effective
guide. For instance a 2x4 x 4"?, pre-drilled on the drill press will give
you a guide hole. Mark the block so you have a reference for alignment on
the piece to be drilled, then drill a starter hole using your alignment
block. Once you're deep enough the hole itself will guide you the rest of
the way.




From georgii1@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:41 EST 1997
Article: 193987 of rec.woodworking
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From: georgii1@aol.com (GEORGII1)
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Subject: Re: Humidor Plans
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John might also want to check out the Popular Mechanic's site - know
someone working that one.  And American Woodworker ran a great article
with plans  and parts sources - (not handy but believe between October and
December of 96).

Jolyn


From jay@rpltd.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:42 EST 1997
Article: 193988 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <3341E6FC.2B87@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:56:28 -0500
From: Jay Sultan <redneck@ibm.net>
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Database Coder wrote:
> 
> I have used the green pressure treated wood around my garden quite a bit. I
> recently purchased two 16 foot 4x6's that were pressure treated, but these
> were BLACK not green. I was told later that they contain Arsenic! Yow
> shouldn't I have told this at the time of purchase? The green pressure
> treated has some form of copper in it doesn't it? Should I get the green
> stuff away from my vegetable plants?  (snip)

Well, I have something to say, but you ripped my post on HD pretty good,
well...

(btw ... I do live in a rural area, the HD here is pretty good, and I
would gladly drive 2 hours to buy specialty tools of that if the price
of living away from the city)

For many years, arsenic treating is the prefered method of making water
resistant wood.  The color will vary depending upon how long ago the
wood was treated and the color of the wood before treatment.  Most of it
is green, but it can look black as well.

All those wood decks, etc, you see are made of arsenic treated wood
-unless they could afford redwood or cedar; around here almost all decks
are made of aresnic treated wood, bought at HD  ;)    

WRT a garden, I agree with the other post that said this was about a
religous issue.  After some debate, I decided to stay away from arsenic
wood and went with well used railroad cross ties, which were treated
with something far worse.  Why?  I figured that 80 years of weather and
heavy trains bouncing on them leeched out all the chemical that was
going to leave.  Besides, I believe in recycling....

Signed, 

Jay Sultan
Database coder since 1978


From bobk40@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:43 EST 1997
Article: 193989 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Krecak <bobk40@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressor Size/Type
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:01:59 +0000
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Joe McSheffery wrote:
> 
> Hi there!
> 
>   I am thinking about buying an Air Compressor and want to get some
> ideas from people who have some experience.
> 
>   I plan to use the Compressor to power;
>    * Finish Nailers/Tackers in the Workshop,
>    * Impact Wrench and other Automotive Tools, and
>    * Framing Nailer and Roofing Nailer when I put an addition on our
> house.
> 
> What is the Minimum recommended Horsepower I will require ?
> 
> Which is better, the Newer Oilless type or the "OLDER" Oil in the sump
> style?
> 
> THNX in advance Joe McSh
Joe,
The kind and quantity of tools you will be using will determine the size
of compressor needed. The key indicator of performance is cubic feet of
air per minute at a certain pressure. Typically compressors are rated at
90 psi and 45 psi cubic foot quantities. Your problem may be with the
range of tools that you listed in your post. A nail gun uses very little
air but an automotive disk sander can really eat up the CFM's in a
hurry. If you spray paint with a good gun a very large compressor will
be required. For carpentry and furniture building it is pretty hard to
beat the Rolaire. They are made in Wisconsin and are the choice of many
contractors here. They come in all different range of sizes but the 1.5
hp pancake model is portable while providing 4.5 CFM at 90 PSI. Very
adequate for carpentry tools. It is an oil lubricated model with a
pleated paper air filter. The oiless models are not as heavy duty and
will not stand up to daily use. I have the Rolaire and a large
stationary compressor to power my shop. I would say that a minimum of 15
CFM at 90 PSI is needed for automotive use. Any less and you will run
out of air with certain tools. I hope this helps.

Bob Krecak


From GregFarrow@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:15:44 EST 1997
Article: 193990 of rec.woodworking
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From: Greg Farrow <GregFarrow@AOL.COM>
Subject: I need help in finding plans
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I have recently started my own business(a very small business) where I make
different kind of wood things and sell them.  Right now I build things like
chairs, coffee tables, and tables.  I would like to expand my business and
sell different things.  So if you have any plans for building things like
wooden mailboxes, desks, etc.(anything wood) or know where I could get any
plans could you please either send them to me or tell me where to get them.

Thank You,
Greg


From patmac@insnet.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:45 EST 1997
Article: 193991 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:33:13 -0600
From: patmac@insnet.com
Subject: Re: Looking for source for 1-1/8" thick MDF in SF Bay Area
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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In article <3340CDFA.6060@worldnet.att.net>,
  Druckerman@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
> Any help would be appreciated.  I need a source for 1/2 sheet (4' x 4')
> of 1-1/8" thick MDF for an extension table for my cabinet saw.  The mfg.
> wants $199 for a 24" x 31" wide piece!  Must be able to do better than
> that...

I don't work with the stuff but if you can get 5/8" and 1/2" and glue
it up you could save alot.  If you can substitute plywood for the bottom
of the sandwich you could probably save even more.

Pat McInerney

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From herbbreese@juno.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:46 EST 1997
Article: 193992 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Herbert C. Breese" <herbbreese@juno.com>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: mounting wooden typesetters box
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 00:40:11 -0500
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John Brock wrote:
> 
> rfodden@chass.utoronto.ca wrote:
> >
> > I have an antique type setter's tray -- shallow wooden box with many
> > small compartments -- that I want to mount on the wall.  The problem with
> > my original plan, which was to simply screw it into the wall through the
> > back panel, is that the back panel is a thin sheet of wood that
> > is cracking badly.  I don't want it to split any more, and I'd prefer not
> > to do anything that permanently obscures the back panel since, though I'm
> > mounting it on a wall for now, it has an old advertisment on the back that
> > is kind of interesting.  Any ideas on how to hang this as a display case?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice.
> >
> > R.F.
> >
> > -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
> >       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
> 
> If the sides are structurally sound, you could attach hook eyes and
> picture wire to it and hang it like a picture.  If you don't want to
> damage it with eyes, perhaps a wood or metal frame could be built around
> the sides to give you something to attach to for hanging.  If you are
> worried about people touching it but still want it displayed, a close
> fitting lexan box could be built that would hold it but then it would
> look like the art displayed in an air terminal.  Hmmm....
> 
> -JB


for a while in the seventies, people made platforms with plywood on legs
with molding around the edge, just big enough for the type case to be
held horizontally, and covered the top with a large piece of glass to
protect the goodies within.

actually, a rather cheap conversational coffee table.

b


From sgrabin@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:47 EST 1997
Article: 193993 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Woody" <sgrabin@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Upholstery Question
Date: 2 Apr 1997 05:57:29 GMT
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Does anybody know anything about how to make, or have made the drop-in type
seats for dining room chairs?
-- 
sgrabin@ix.netcom.com


From lgrayam@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:48 EST 1997
Article: 193994 of rec.woodworking
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From: lgrayam@ix.netcom.com(Larry Grayam )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight holes in long boards
Date: 2 Apr 1997 05:33:53 GMT
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In <5hrshp$m03@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> gwatts@cv.hp.com (Gary Watts) writes:

>
>I was wondering if any one had seen a jig or other ingenious idea for
>drilling holes in long material.  I recently had some 4 x 4 posts for
>my workbench that needed holes drilled perpendiculiar to the end.  
>They were too long for the drill press so I was left with the hand
drill.
>I have seen the General Tool guy that hooks onto your 3/8" drill but
>I required a 1/2" drill bit.  Additionally, it looked like you
wouldn't
>have much surface area to put the flat onto.  
>
>Gary

Gary, try useing a shipbuilders auger about 18" long or an Installers
bit about 20-24" long Cut a small piece of plywood toi the same
dimension as the post. Put a hole in the center of this guide the size
of the drill bit shank. Lay the post down and strike a line projecting
the boards side position towards the drill. Center mark the end of the
board and drill away. The guide line will keep you on line and the
guide board will keep you level.  You can always reverse drill if the
bits not long enough... Larry Grayam



From tom_unger@mindlink.bc.ca Wed Apr  2 12:15:50 EST 1997
Article: 193995 of rec.woodworking
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From: tom_unger@mindlink.bc.ca (tom unger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 05:59:55 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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djensen@madison.tds.net (David Jensen) wrote:

>In article <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca>,
>geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca says...
>>
>>We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
>>replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
>>Please reply by email as well as posting as I donąt often read the news.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Gene

><Assume_serious_post>

>I hate to say this, but some areas have outlawed these lovely old
>edifices, or at least forbidden the construction of new ones. I am not
>at all familiar with Canadian rules, but I suspect that you will have to
>check with the local authorities before building.

></Assume_serious_post>

Or not.  It's easier to get forgiveness than permission.

--
Tom

========================================
more is better
too much is just enough
NO MONEY SPENT ON TOOLS IS WASTED

tom_unger@mindlink.bc.ca
========================================



From GeneK@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:50 EST 1997
Article: 193996 of rec.woodworking
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From: GeneK <GeneK@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: If you were NORM would you POST HERE ????
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:03:02 -0800
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Chuck, Riccardo wrote:
> 
> Okay, how about it? If you were Norm, would you post to this news group???

I might, but I don't think I'd use my own name....

Gene
(not Norm - honest!)


From keevmk@hal-pc.org Wed Apr  2 12:15:51 EST 1997
Article: 193997 of rec.woodworking
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From: keevmk <keevmk@hal-pc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Questions, Questions...
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:58:33 -0600
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To: Dane Lance <lance@txdirect.net>
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Dane Lance wrote:
> 
>         Thanks to everyone for their fine suggestions and obvious
> experience and knowledge in helping me select tools to start my shop.
> Now, I have more questions.....(hee hee hee)...
> 
>         WHY, why, why are Craftsman tools so bad??  What specific characteristics
> makes them so hated?  I think I have done well with the advice given so far and
> my tool selections so far are mostly a mix of Delta and Porter-Cable, however,
> I'm looking real hard at a Craftsman table saw.  For some reason, table saws
> from Delta or other respected makers are either hard to find or way too
> expensive for me.  I'm not really interested in mail order and the shipping
> costs for Jet or Grizzly equipment.  The Delta table saws that I CAN afford are
> little bench-top models.  I looking for a floor model with the heavy cast iron
> extensions and decent fences.  The new Craftsman model 29941N "Contractor
> Series" 3HP 10" has the features I'm looking for and is priced at $549 (i.e. I
> can afford it).  It sure looks like a nice saw.....I'm just curious as to what
> makes Craftsman power tools so "crappy".....
> 
> More questions....
> 
>         What is meant when they say a motor is rated for 1.5HP, but develops 3HP
> maximum?  Is it 3HP or is it 1.5HP???
> 
>         Is it better to wire your motors for 240V or 120V if you have the choice?
> 
>         Is a dust collection system really necessary if I already have a large shop
> vac and connect it to the collectors on the machinery?
> 
>         What's the best sources for wood?  I understand "Home Depot" wood isn't
> exactly the choice of woodworkers.
> 
>                 Thanks,
> 
>                         Dane
> 
> lance@txdirect.net

For $550.00 you can get the jet contractors w/free freight and no tax! 
Most all catalogs carry Jet & Delta - look in any woodworking mag. and
you'll find plenty of adds for the mail order houses.
    The Sears saw will work OK for you, especially in the beginnig, but
the longer you work the more you'll wish you had a better saw.
    That "developed 3HP" on the sears saw is crapola.  The motor might
pull three amps the split second before it overloads and trips the
breaker - it's a cheezy marketing gimmick on the part of Sears. 
Everyone else claims their 1.5 HP motor is a 1.5 HP motor.
    240v is the voltage I prefer for large powertools and dust collector
does make things much neater, also keeps the wife from yelling when you
track sawdust etc. into the house


From busse@bucky.win.bright.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:52 EST 1997
Article: 193998 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mark Busse <busse@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: BUTTERNUT AND OAK FOR SALE
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:11:31 -0600
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For Sale butternut and oak lumber

Butternut(ave. weight 2.3 lbs/bf) 4/4 sel/better $2.00/bf

Red Oak (avg. weight 3.6lbs/bf) 4/4 sel/better $2.25/bf.

 The lumber prices shown above are based on rough sawn and random widths
and lengths.
If special sizes are required, then add $0.20 per board foot. Most
orders can be shipped
right to your door via UPS. Shipping charges are based on zone and
weight.

For more information or to place an order E-mail me at
busse@bucky.win.bright.net


From lingling@erols.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:53 EST 1997
Article: 193999 of rec.woodworking
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From: Tom & Mary <lingling@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Redwood for Deck !!  Help!
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:13:25 -0500
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Hi All,

I'm looking for a good Redwood distributor who I can by some products
>from  for a deck project I will be working on this spring.  I'm in the
Rhode Island / Massachusetts area and was wondering if anyone can point
me in the right direction!  Thanks in advance.

p.s.  I have read some previous posts re: Redwood deck building and was
curious as to the care for such.  I was also looking for recommendations
for fasteners and design techniques.  Any good links for deck designing
?


From wallace@titan.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:54 EST 1997
Article: 194000 of rec.woodworking
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From: Steve Wallace <wallace@titan.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help on evaluating old Unisaw
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 23:02:55 -0800
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David L. Rhoades wrote:
> 
> I have toyed with simple woodworking for years, and am interested in
> buying a table saw.  I am trying to follow the advice of "buy the best
> and only cry once" 

Good boy.

> (someone's motto out there), 

How 'bout that, maw?  I *am* someone!  ;^>

> but also getting excellent value.                              ^^^^^
Richey!  We did it!  Someone *finally* unnerstans!  Yippeee!!!

> I think I have found a good deal on a very old
> Unisaw.  It is currently owned by a co-worker's dad who owns another
> Unisaw and a Powermatic 66, and is clearly somewhat of a fanatic about
> his tools. 

So far, so good...So, as I parse this, the chap has *two* Unisaws, and
one PM66?  Izzat right?

> I have not yet seen the saw (have to drive 2 hrs to do
> so-plan to next Monday PM), but he describes it as a 40-50 year old
> Delta (doesn't know for sure because serial # plate is missing,
> cast-iron base with motor cover, 

Hmm...there were at least two different versions of the older saws...
Mine is vintage early '70's, and it fits your description...but the
older model that I have seen does too...

> standard-make fence (runs along dual
> rails) with extension rails and legs. 

That sounds like the Jet-Lock fence.  You'll prolly wanna replace it
with a Biese/Unifence/Vega/Paralok/You pickem fence...fences have 
improved a bit in 40 yrs. (5 yrs?)  But that isn't an immediate need.
You can make a lot of sawdust with a Jet Lock fence.  Tage Frid does
okay with one.  ;^>

> He has put a new Delta 3 HP
> single phase motor on (still has the 3-phase motor) and replaced the
> arbor. 

That's good...Delta...duz ya mean Marathon?  Baldor?  Or really Delta?
Hmm...IMHO, if it's a Delta brand motor, it's prolly pretty new, and
prolly not as high quality as a Marathon or Baldor...but other folks
may know a lot more about that than I do.

> He thinks the table needs to be ground and polished to make it
> look nice,

"look nice"...Hmm...I spent an afternoon with a beltsandah, ROS, steel
wool, and buffing wheels, and the top of mine looks good enough to lay
a hunk of wood on just before you cut it...There are still a few stains
on it, but that don't bother me much...besides, it kinda adds character,
not unlike worm holes in an old piece of recycled pine... ;^>  As long as
it's flat and not rusted, I dunno that I'd have it ground...but it's
your money.

> but is not dented, etc. 

The table, or the cabinet?  I doubt the table is dented...oy vey...

> The motor cover doesn't exactly fit
> with the new motor (new motor is 2" longer than old one).

Again, dunno how impoetent this is...mine is sans motor cover...seems
to runs just fine without one.  But if'n yer gonna add DC, then you
may need to make one.  But that shouldn't be too hard with aluminum,
hardboard, or fiberglas...or some bizarre combo. You may just be able
to build a little box gizmo that sits between the motor cover and
the saw that effectively extends the motor cover 2 inches.  Hmm...new 
motor is 2" longer than old one...methinks that this saw may be the 
original form factor...kewl.

> Price is $700
> - well below market as far as I can tell ($1100 seems to be the going
> price here, but that may be with Unifence). 

That seems just on the high side of the acceptable range to me, but not
by a lot, and maybe not, depending on how it's outfitted.  I doubt that
it's worth much more than that, and it's prolly depreciated all it that
ever will...but it's hard to tell from here.  I think a lot of the value 
of a saw like this is forged by the local market for such a gem.  So it 
may be about right.

Considering that the new fence is gonna cost you another $350, you're
right back in the range of what you consider to be nominal, so I guess
it seems reasonable for yer neck o'de woods.

> My wife worries about the
> age, but I think that may actually be a plus.

I tend to agree with you.
 
> With the new motor and arbor I'm not sure what else to check. 

Does it include a blade?  What kind?  (If it's a good blade, that may
be worth up to $100)  Does it have any blade inserts?  Does it have 
a guard?  Pop up splitter?  Is the table decently flat?  Are there
any parts you need to buy to use it? (I hadda buy lock knobs...made
my own blade inserts)  Is there a miter guage?  Figger out all this 
stuff to see if the price is still in line with what you wanna spend 
after you get it outfitted, if that needs to happen.  The fact that
the guy is a tool fanatic is prolly a good thing.  It's prolly in pretty
good shape.

Good luck with your decision.  If you buy it,  It'll be the last table saw 
you ever need to buy. I bet that my saw will be making sawdust after I'm 
worm food, and I'm not *that* old...

My wife couldn't get me to stop muttering "Wow, what a machine..." after 
I got mine.  I doubt you'll ever regret buying one, be it this one, or the
next one you stumble across.

Later.
Steve.
-- 
"Buy the best, and only cry once."


From alexturn@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:54 EST 1997
Article: 194001 of rec.woodworking
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From: alexturn@ix.netcom.com(John Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Darkening cherry with lye
Date: 2 Apr 1997 07:12:20 GMT
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In <5hr9rr$f7s@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu> dascobb@ezinfo.ucs.indiana.edu
(Darren Scott Cobb) writes: 
>
>I'm considering this technique for a piece I'm currently
>building.  I've tested it on scraps, and I really like the
>results.  I put on gloves and applied a water & lye mixture.
>Varying the lye concentration varied the darkening.  The 
>figure does not seem to be hindered or hidden in any way.
>
>My problem is:  I'm hesitant to apply this much water to
>my finished piece of furniture (It's a buffet).  The mixture
>is probably 95% water.  Am I asking for trouble with warping,
>expansion, etc.?

I have used this technique a few times, although on smaller pieces. I
put my mixture in a spray bottle and misted it on. You do not have to
drench the surface, just get it wet. I also wet the surface before
treating, allowed it to dry, then sanded it. This will reduce the grain
raising effect of the water/lye mixture.

Alex


From Laura92494@AOL.COM Wed Apr  2 12:15:55 EST 1997
Article: 194002 of rec.woodworking
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From: Nola Beckum <Laura92494@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: A little humor...
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194002

Hello and thank you ... <chuckles> ... I enjoyed that!

Laura


From popecc@pacificcoast.net Wed Apr  2 12:15:56 EST 1997
Article: 194003 of rec.woodworking
From: "Chris Pope" <popecc@pacificcoast.net>
Subject: Delta 22-560C Planer is finally here!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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	After months of going in and bugging the sales clerk about the arrival of
the new Delta Planer--it's finally here and should be coming to a store
near you soon!!  The list price in the store I was in was $599.00 Canadian,
I'm sure it will be cheaper else where as the other stores start to carry
them.

	Gee it's funny how the release of Delta's new toy happens to conincide
(spelling?) with income tax refund season !
-- 
Chris Pope
Victoria, BC


From gilding@redshift.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:57 EST 1997
Article: 194004 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 01:51:06 -0600
From: gilding@redshift.com
Subject: Finishing subjects
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <859966630.26287@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Excuse me gents, could anyone suggest a news group to me that discusses
the various types of finishes applied to woodworking? I just came on line
a few days ago and have had a very unsuccessful go at locating the list
of the different groups out there. I was given this groups name to ask,
so here I am! I would be grateful for any suggestions. Thank you in
advance for your help. David Christianson Freelance Gilding
www.redshift.com/~gilding

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ibdegen2@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:58 EST 1997
Article: 194005 of rec.woodworking
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From: ibdegen2@aol.com (IbDegen2)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hats off to ToolCrib
Date: 2 Apr 1997 08:01:20 GMT
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On 2 Apr 1997, lwc54@aol.com wrote:

>>you paid the freight. nobody ships anything for nothing. that is
obvious!

Yeah, but no matter how you slice it, it's the lowest price around. 
Nobody's in business to lose money.  Compare anyone who has a lower listed
price (like William Alden), then add their "shipping and handling," and
sometimes mandatory extra insurance charge, and those "lower" prices are
no longer lower.  My hat's off to ToolCrib, too.

Braun Degenshein
San Francisco


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:15:58 EST 1997
Article: 194006 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning waterstone
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:40:16 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194006

Victor G. Baron wrote:
> 
> I have a waterstone 1000/4000 that I inadvertently ( read dumb)
> screwed up. I was using a honing guide with a center roller and the
> roller started to squeak. Without thinking, I sprayed it with WD 40
> and went back to honing my plane iron on the 4000 grit side. The
> combination of the wd 40 and the center wheel left a black streak down
> the center of the stone. Doesn't seem to affect the sharpening but
> sure looks awful. Any ideas on how to clean it up? 

Well, since the next time you use the stone you'll probably have
to flatten it (you do flatten them before each use, don't you? B^))
this should take off any marks. I'd be surprised if a little 
scrubbing with a stiff plastic bristle brush wouldn't get most, if
not all, of it off also. Use a little dish soap. You do put
a little soap in your storage water to keep down the fungi? B^) B^)


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:00 EST 1997
Article: 194007 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Joint edge on planer?
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:56:25 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <333AB4C9.E62@mti.cdc.com>
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To: DMarlen <dmarlen@aol.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194007

DMarlen wrote:
> 

> 
> What if you put the board into the planer on edge?  I know it might sound
> dangerous.  So you couldn't do it on every piece.  But if it was mostly
> straight; just rough, couldn't you put it on edge and have the rollers
> hold it steady and let the planer take off just a little bit.  

Others have said that this isn't a good idea and won't work. And
in its basic incarnation they're right. One of the FWW collections
had an article on building an auxiliary table for your portable
planer. Basically you made it temporarily un portable by adding
a through the planer extension table, torsion boxed on the infeed
and outfeed areas. A nice way to solid up your substrate and cut
down on snipe. But the author also presented some of the jigs he
used with this. One of them was an edge jointer. As I recall it
was a sled that ran along the table with a moderate height 
vertical fence and a couple of other attached blocks. Put your
rough board against the fence and use wedges (or you could build
in lever clamps) to hold it tight. Run the whole mess through the
planer taking light cuts. Note that you _will_ get a straight
edge. Might not be parallel with the grain, but it will be
straight. Flip the board over and do the other side. This _will_
be parallel to the first side. Don't recall what the kickback
considerations were, but note that if your board is way off 
there might be times when you're running the board through
the planer un-driven by the rollers, and that the cutter 
head will be pretty high giving you extra opportunity to
remove appendages by sticking them in there while running
the sled through. 

So it's doable, and in this context it's reasonably safe, IMHO.
But to just stand them on end and run them through? No way,
for all the reasons others have mentioned.


From JDHarms@black-hole.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:01 EST 1997
Article: 194008 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <333C75C8.3DF7@black-hole.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 20:52:08 -0500
From: Joann & David Harms <JDHarms@black-hole.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Screw hiding device
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A customer asked me about a device to hide screw heads in wood. He said
it has a sharp, narrow planer type blade, which when struck on top with
a hammer, cuts a thin strip on three sides and rolls it back. Then you
drill, countersink and screw your joint together. Then you simply apply
glue, roll the strip back into place, clamp, and sand.
  I would like to know the name, manufacturer,price etc. If anyone has
used one please respond and let me know how well it works. Are there
different sizes? How wide a cut is it?  the guy wants to use it on oak
newl posts so the screws are  quite large. Thanks in advance for any
info.


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:01 EST 1997
Article: 194009 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table-mounted router switch
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:36:09 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
Lines: 25
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194009

Jim Schlee wrote:
> 

> 
> (hope you get the idea). The router works fine except the electric brake
> doesn't work when plugged into the switch - router works fine when
> plugged straight into the same outlet the TS switch is plugged into.
> 
> I'm lost - any ideas???
> 

Kinda, though I don't remember the exact wiring details. We had an
electric lawn mower that had an electric brake. The key is that the
switch isn't a straight on/off switch, it's a double pole double
throw switch. In the on position the motor wires are connected to
the mains (Duh! B^)) but in the off position they're either connected
together (shorted) or to each other via a capacitor. This is the
part I don't recall. In this position the motor is generating some
electricity while spinning from inertia and the way it's connected
basically makes the motor windings fight each other and quickly
come to equilibrium. In order to get this effect you'll have to
have the same kind of wiring in your external switch. Check out
the router's exploded parts diagram and also check for a wiring
diagram. These should help you determine what you'll need. Oh,
just remember, short the _motor's_ wires together B^).


From JDHarms@black-hole.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:02 EST 1997
Article: 194010 of rec.woodworking
Message-ID: <33403F3E.7096@black-hole.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:48:30 -0500
From: Joann & David Harms <JDHarms@black-hole.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
To: jcw <whylandj@kodak.com>
Subject: Re: Staining/finishing cherry kitchen cabinets
References: <5hoqhd$9d4$1@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
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jcw wrote:
> 
> I need some recommendations for (staining?) finishing cherry kitchen
> cabinets.  I'd like to keep the kitchen on the light side so my thought is to
> leave them natural with no stain.  How will this look (or is it recommended to
> at least apply a light stain to help bring out the grain)?  In terms of the
> finish, I don't own expensive spraying equipment so my options seem limited.
> Is it advisable to go with a polyurethane (water based) product such as Minwax
> which I can get in a spray can or are there better choices?  I'm making the
> cabinets myself so I'm inclined to spend a little more $$ if the end product
> is that much nicer.
> 
> As always, thanks for the help.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> 
If light is what you want, use no stain. The cherry will darken  some
even after finish is applied.


From jbt@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:03 EST 1997
Article: 194011 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J. Brent Taylor" <jbt@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:36:49 -0500
Organization: Metaphase Technology, Inc.
Lines: 27
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David Roseman wrote:
> 
> On 28 Mar 1997 13:22:24 GMT, {removethistoreply}bonjoel@bonjoel.com
> (Joel Shapiro) wrote:
> 
> >Grizzly has some in the $12-$15 range that are very good for adjusting
> >WW machinery.  I have one I got for $19 a year ago the compares very
> >favorably with my Starrett when checking DP runout, Miter slot to blade
> >squareness, etc.
> 
> I've wondered from time to time how a Grizzly or comparably-priced
> import dial indicator would stack up in accuracy against a Starrett,
> even if the comparison is just anecdotal.   I've been happy with the
> grizzly indicator for years, and it seems to work great.  But
> ignorance may be bliss here.  Suppose I could check it with feeler
> gauges.  This subject is no doubt visited from time to time in
> rec.crafts.metalworking, but I've not researched it. dcr

I checked my $10 Harbor Freight dial indicator with feeler gauges
and found no discrepency.  I would not be surprised to see error at
the full range of 1 inch.  Seems to me that the accuracy would be a 
percentage of the width measured rather than the full range.  So,
to be off by .001 when measuring .010 would be a 10% error.  Even
the cheapest are WAY better than that, so they should be fine for
measuring alignment.

Brent Taylor


From bgissen@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:04 EST 1997
Article: 194012 of rec.woodworking
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From: " bill gissendaner" <bgissen@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing subjects
Date: 2 Apr 1997 09:20:48 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 16
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References: <859966630.26287@dejanews.com>
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What you could do is to go to a search unit ask to search for
"woodworking","woodfinishing",or"wood",It will take you to some pages you
could be interested in.

gilding@redshift.com wrote in article <859966630.26287@dejanews.com>...
> Excuse me gents, could anyone suggest a news group to me that discusses
> the various types of finishes applied to woodworking? I just came on line
> a few days ago and have had a very unsuccessful go at locating the list
> of the different groups out there. I was given this groups name to ask,
> so here I am! I would be grateful for any suggestions. Thank you in
> advance for your help. David Christianson Freelance Gilding
> www.redshift.com/~gilding
> 
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
> 


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:04 EST 1997
Article: 194013 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers & Pressure Treated?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:14:10 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
Lines: 23
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keevmk wrote:
> 
> Rick Shelton wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking at building a deck in the near future and would like to
> > round over the 2x6's I'll be using for the deck.  I've heard that
> > rounding over pressure treated would burn-out my router, not to mention
> > dull out bits rather quickly.  Any comments, suggestions out there?
> >

> I doubt it would burn up your router, as long as it's not underpowered &
> you take multiple passes, however being pine & saturated with
> preservitive will almost surely trash your bits.  You might go for the
> el cheapo high speed steel bits & toss them when they are burnt up.

I'd have to disagree with the bit suggestion. If something is going to 
be hard on bits then it'll waste HSS bits really quickly. Then, with
dull bits, you do have to worry about your router burning out. First,
as another poster suggested, don't do this. Get the commercially
rounded over boards instead. Second, if you do have a lot of work
like this to do then get a couple of mid price carbide bits. Use
them, touch 'em up a couple of times on a diamond stone, and if they
survive to be used again on another project then count that as a bonus.


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:05 EST 1997
Article: 194014 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:25:21 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
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Plecostamus@Fish.Net wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have info on those little $20-$30 jigs that are sold to
> hold the iron in the right angle while running it over a stone?  Are
> they of any benefit?

IMHO they are. You can sharpen without them, but they insure consistency
throughout the sharpening process, and that is one of the keys to 
a good edge. The General jig is commonly available. Don't get it. 
Hold out for the Veritas jig. The angle setting jig that is sometimes
packeged with it is good, but you can use whatever technique you want
to get the initial angle set correctly.

> 
> I have just acquired a couple of planes and I need to learn about
> sharpening.  I have searched my local library and bookstores but
> couldn't find anything on the subject.  

Really?!? Try Lenord Lee's "Complete Book of Sharpening" for starters.
Available from, of course, Lee Valley Tools. Juranich's "Razor's Edge
Book of Sharpening" is good for general principles. Some of the 
Fine WoodWorking collections (like "Planes and Chisels") have sections
on sharpening and tuning up planes.  

I have seen some in WoodHaven
> and others. I am going to have to order one of those. In the meantime,
> what is your opinion on the best way to go on stones (type, grit,
> length and width)?  Are the 3 stone systems the best way to go??  Is
> diamond better than the natural stone? All advice appreciated.
> 

Garret was going to mail you some SS (tm) information. Or you can
go to 

http://www.cnh.mv.net/ipusers/gunterman/scary.htm

and/or check out DejaNews for previous discussions on the process.


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:06 EST 1997
Article: 194015 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Darkening cherry with lye
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 11:46:38 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <334149FE.77C4@mti.cdc.com>
References: <5hr9rr$f7s@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194015

Darren Scott Cobb wrote:
> 
>
> My problem is:  I'm hesitant to apply this much water to
> my finished piece of furniture (It's a buffet).  The mixture
> is probably 95% water.  Am I asking for trouble with warping,
> expansion, etc.?

Well, don't soak the pieces in the stuff, and wipe off
all excess quickly. Why not do individual pieces after
smoothing but before final assembly? Be easier to dry them
and you can just let them sit for a day or two to 
stabilize again. Spot treat any places that get marred
while putting the pieces together.
 
> A related question:  Could I use mineral spirits as the
> solvent?  Lye is scary enough by itself, and I'm concerned
> about possible chemical reactions.  

Lye isn't _that_ bad, but do take precautions. Mineral
spirits won't solvate the lye. Stick to the water.


From jaf@mti.cdc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:07 EST 1997
Article: 194016 of rec.woodworking
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From: James Foster <jaf@mti.cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening a plane
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 14:50:06 -0600
Organization: Control Data Systems, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <334174FE.469@mti.cdc.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194016

John O'Brien wrote:

> market and also the most expensive ($25-30). However, I also found some
> problems
> with it as well. In order to get the chisel tightened down so that it is
> secured
> firmly in the jig, you really need to crank down on the brass knob. Then
> when it
> comes time to remove the chisel, it become VERY difficult to loosen this
> knob.

Try gluing on some 220 grit paper to both the jig and clamp with
contact cement. Works a lot better. 

> Once set up, the jig works great when transfering from stone to stone.
> Only takes
> a few minutes to hone. Actually takes more time to get the chisel
> properly positioned in the jig.

Yeah. I'm going to make a "jig for the jig" to help in getting the
blade aligned square.


From ejb@, at, primenet, dot., com Wed Apr  2 12:16:08 EST 1997
Article: 194017 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Bennett <"ejb"@ at primenet dot. com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ALIGN-IT or TS-ALIGNER? >Objective< opinions sought.
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 12:05:02 -0700
Organization: .
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JaneAustin wrote:
> 
> ALIGN-IT (I think that might be the wrong spelling, I don't have the ad in
> front of me) is $139 and can check your table saw, jointer and other tools
> within a .001". Has anyone compared TS-ALIGNER to ALIGN-IT?  Also, it's
> curious that either one could be patented; I have the SPI catalog and it's
> filled with dial guages and hold-downs etc. It seems that all one has to
> do is just put the parts together and you have your own "TS-ALIGNER" or
> "ALIGN-IT" to the precision and accuracy that you're willing to pay for
> (some of the SPI dial guages are frightfully expensive, but they're not
> made in China and meet Federal specs; perhaps not necessary for
> woodworking).
> 
> Am I missing something obvious here?
> 
> Jane

Jane,

I'll try to be as objective as possible given that TS-Aligner is my
product.  Here goes...

Patentability: Neither the TS-Aligner or the A-Line-It hold any
patents.  You're right, measurement and alignment techniques have been
public domain for quite some time.  The rule says that the new
application of an "old" technology must produce a unique and unexpected
result to merit a patent.  Getting your tablesaw, drill press, or
jointer aligned properly is not unique or unexpected, it's a pretty darn
obvious result.  A few years back a patent was awarded to the inventor
of the Infinitii (yet another woodworking alignment tool which appeared
over a year after my TS-Aligner).  They even tried to exact a royalty
>from  me (tee, hee, hee).  I sent a letter refusing to comply and never
heard from them again (read: the patent wouldn't hold water on a tennis
court let alone a court of law).

Ease of Reproduction: You're right again, if all you want to do is
measure runout and align a blade then you might as well just get a stick
and a dial indicator and use your miter gauge to guide it in the slot. 
That's essentially what you get with the A-Line-It (ie: spend $139 if
you want to get it in nice anodized aluminum).  If you want to measure
and set angles then you're in a whole different realm.  The feature that
allows the TS-Aligner Jr. to measure angles ("Angle Attachment Gage")
requires some pretty precise machine work (+/- 0.0005" max).  You're not
going to pull it off on a drill press in the garage.  In fact, I have
trouble maintaining tolerances in a production environment and my mill
has a resolution of 0.0001".  In other words, spend $99.95 and (in
addition to nice anodized aluminum) you get functionality that A-Line-It
doesn't offer and you can't reproduce in your own shop.

Quality of Dial Indicator:  Having a $60-$100 dial indicator is nice but
quite unnecessary for woodworking.  The $20 "Made in China" indicator is
quite satisfactory.  The minor accuracy differences will never be
noticed.  Both the A-Line-It and the TS-Aligner Jr. use Chineese dial
indicators.  The indicators that I purchase for TS-Aligner Jr. meet or
exceed AGD class 2 specifications.  Since each TS-Aligner Jr. must be
aligned with the dial indicator it comes with, each and every one gets
checked for functionality and accuracy in my shop before it is shipped.

Finally, there's a question that you didn't ask that deserves mention. 
Availability.  I can't make TS-Aligners fast enough to keep up with
demand.  There's a waiting list right now that's about two months long. 
I just spent $31,000 on new equipment and tooling to expand capacity to
meet demand (which should clear out the backlog in another month).  The
A-Line-It, on the other hand, is sitting on shelves ready for immediate
delivery.  Trendlines featured it only once in their catalog, saying
that it really wasn't doing very well.  Compare that with Hartville
Tool, which has a waiting list nearly 100 people long for TS-Aligner
Jr.  I think people recognize that $139 is too much to pay for something
you can slap together in your own shop for less than $20 (ie: anodized
aluminum really isn't worth $119).

-- 
Ed Bennett
ejb@ at primenet dot.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
http://www.primenet.com/~ejb

Due to overwhelming spam email, you must
edit my "reply to" email address in order
to send me email.  Remove the words " at "
and " dot" before you send your message.


From ejb@, at, primenet, dot., com Wed Apr  2 12:16:09 EST 1997
Article: 194018 of rec.woodworking
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From: Ed Bennett <"ejb"@ at primenet dot. com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasonably priced dial indicators?
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 15:43:54 -0700
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David Roseman wrote:
> 
> I've wondered from time to time how a Grizzly or comparably-priced
> import dial indicator would stack up in accuracy against a Starrett,
> even if the comparison is just anecdotal.   I've been happy with the
> grizzly indicator for years, and it seems to work great.  But
> ignorance may be bliss here.  Suppose I could check it with feeler
> gauges.  This subject is no doubt visited from time to time in
> rec.crafts.metalworking, but I've not researched it. dcr

As you might suspect, I buy a lot of these inexpensive dial indicators.
On occasion I come across one that (for whatever reason) isn't accurate.
The Aligner-Jr requires accuracy to +/-0.001 over the entire 1" travel
in order to perform accurate angle measurements.  I'd say that one or
two in 100 indicators don't stack up to that standard but are only off
by a couple of thousandths.  Still pretty darn good for a sub $20
indicator.  

I have better, much better indicators that measure in the millionths of
an inch, have incredible accuracy, and very smooth mechanisms.  However,
I never use them for woodworking.  Most of the measurements you make
with a dial indicator are relative comparisons, not absolute length. 
Therefore, even if the indicator is off by a couple of thousandths over
the entire travel it's still a very useful instrument.

-- 
Ed Bennett
ejb@ at primenet dot.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
http://www.primenet.com/~ejb

Due to overwhelming spam email, you must
edit my "reply to" email address in order
to send me email.  Remove the words " at "
and " dot" before you send your message.


From Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com Wed Apr  2 12:16:10 EST 1997
Article: 194019 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: plans for outhouse
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:38:04 -0700
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> >David Jensen wrote:

> >In article <geneherz-3103971454200001@fish.bioc.mun.ca>,
> >geneherz@kean.ucs.mun.ca says...
> >>
> >>We have an unserviced cabin with an old outhouse that needs to be
> >>replaced. I am looking for outhouse plans. Any help would be appreciated.
> >>Please reply by email as well as posting as I don1t often read the news.
> >>
> >>Thanks
> >>
> >>Gene
> 
> ><Assume_serious_post>
> 
> >I hate to say this, but some areas have outlawed these lovely old
> >edifices, or at least forbidden the construction of new ones. I am not
> >at all familiar with Canadian rules, but I suspect that you will have to
> >check with the local authorities before building.
> 
> ></Assume_serious_post>
> 
> Or not.  It's easier to get forgiveness than permission.
> 
> --

I think this is one construction project where I would ask for
permission, IMHO.  Just imagine if its been in use for a few years and
then the local authorities are in a nasty mood when they discover it. 
So, they just require you to remove the building and the pit!  No
thanks.  

Dave Druckerman


From Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com Wed Apr  2 12:16:11 EST 1997
Article: 194020 of rec.woodworking
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From: Dave Druckerman <Dave@Sheffield.ISL.SRI.Com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta's 22-560 planer has arrived!
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:53:27 -0700
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Well, it has finally arrived.  The much awaited (hyped?) new Delta
portable planer is now here.  See Delta's site:
http://www.gblinc.com/delta/catalog/directory/22-560.htm

If anyone goes out and gets one, I'd appreciate hearing if they have
indeed reduced the snipe.  I've been holding off on buying a portable
planer until this one came out due to the reviews.  Does it live up to
the advance billing?

Dave Druckerman


From charliediy@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:12 EST 1997
Article: 194021 of rec.woodworking
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From: charliediy@aol.com (CharlieDIY)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Excalibur
Date: 2 Apr 1997 10:17:07 GMT
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The Delta model equivalent to the Excalibur costs about the same, maybe
more.


From bobk40@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:12 EST 1997
Article: 194022 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Krecak <bobk40@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Setting TS Rip Fence
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:45:33 +0000
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G. Vaughn wrote:
> 
> A friend and fellow woodworker (an ol' timer) once showed me how to set a
> table saw fence for less bind or kickback.  After getting the arbor (blade)
> parallel to the miter slots and setting the miter gauge accurately to 90
> degrees, you set the rip fence so that it is approximately .002 wide at the
> back of the table with respect to the front edge of the table.  In other
> words, the trailing edge of the fence has a little clearance with respect
> to the front edge.  I use a feeler gauge to set this offset from a  piece
> of wood clamped to the miter gauge.
> 
> I recently purchased a Jet table saw to replace my 35 year old Craftsman
> (actually I kept my old saw -- couldn't bring myself to part company with
> an old friend).  I initially set up the saw per instructions, but after a
> few cuts reset the fence with a little clearance.  Much better.
> 
> Any one else set their fence this way?
> 
> Ken Vaughn
Ken,
Absolutely!!! This is the method Forrest recommends with their blades. 
I'm using a Paralok rip fence on a Unisaw with a Forrest blade and a
custom made aluminum plate zero clearance insert like Norm Abrahm's. The
cuts are absolutely flawless on plywood across the grain. Opening the
fence 2-3 thousandths almost completely stops any burning on hardwoods.
Just be sure to remember to reset the rip fence if you put it on the
other side of the blade or you will have a potentially dangerous
kickback situation on your hands.

Bob Krecak


From colinml@rt66.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:13 EST 1997
Article: 194023 of rec.woodworking
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From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:39:47 -0700
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#10 Ox wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:57:19 GMT "tmccrain@sprynet.com (Tim)" posted to
> "rec.woodworking" on the subject "Re: Build Cabinets using all Hardwood" :
> 
> You may be in love mdf, but should realise that unless you're using medite
> or some other reduced formaldehyde material you are installing a known
> carcinogen.  The urea formaldehyde that typically composes ~%50 of the
> actual material does not fully cure, (versus phenol formaldehyde resin
> which comes much closer to a full cure), and the material will give off
> formaldehyde in significant and dangerous quantities for at least 5 to 10
> years.  Say what you want, but personally I don't want to install a cancer
> causing material in the microenvironment of my house!  If it doesn't matter
> to you, tho, I have heard that carbon tetrachloride is a GREAT cleaner, and
> Tertiary butyl amine borane is reputed to be quite tasty.  I recommend
> hardwood plywood over mdf or other particle type boards any day.  Less
> resin, and more stability when exposed to moisture.  Doh, have you ever
> seen a particle product that didn't fall apart on exposure to moisture?
> Excepting of course Marine grade mat, which would probably be too expensive
> to use for regular cabinets.    Enjoy, TS

Hi,
Actually, you raise a valid point, despite your lack of graciousness. 
Since you quoted me in your post, I feel compelled to respond.

New homes, in particular, are a problem because they lack the
"cleansing" breezes of draftier older homes.  Carpets, flooring, paints,
wallcovering......just about everything in a new home contains some sort
of chemical that continues to out-gas for some time.  Many people are
oblivious, many can have severe reactions.

I don't build cabinets, so I don't typically use much sheet material.  I
work primarily with solid stock, but have occasionally used veneer over
MDF in my furniture when the design called for it.  I prefer medite. 
But it is possible to seal urea-formaldehyde based MDF and particle
board by simply spraying a coating on all exposed surfaces, like the
underside of a kitchen counter.

And, lastly (I suppose I saved the best for last) as to your
recommendation to use hardwood plywood to avoid urea-formaldehyde, most
plywood today (yes, even non-marine grade) is manufactured with
waterproof adhesive...Guess which one....

-Colin


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:14 EST 1997
Article: 194024 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: willing to help a beginner?
Message-ID: <8D512ED.0233014EFB.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 12:29:00 -0600
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Coffee Tables are fun to make,And unique One-of are thee best i think.
Many ideas for them abound like usin an old antique screen door covered
with glass and used for a top,Or a Ceramic tiles pattern set into a top,
or How about takin a Bunch of Coffee cups and breakin them up and
imbedding them into a top then covering with clear acrylic Then glass
topping? As you can see There are Millions if not Billions of
concepts,and you can find most at your local library in the WW
section,or in the Home Deco section etc...Of course you can make an all
wood table too! hhehe
                         Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:15 EST 1997
Article: 194025 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sander advice needed
Message-ID: <8D512F5.0233014EFC.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 12:37:00 -0600
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Sanders save time AND money so buy several like a RANDOM ORBIT
sander,then a Belt sander is good etc..You can always use the Armstrong
method Too..Most sanders are so inepensive nowadays you really should
have more than one cuz one sander cant do it all,,Random orbits are best
for finishing without leavin marks,Belt sanders are good for fast wood
removal and can be mounted stationary so you can push wood against belt
in some applications. Ive read that sandin finer than 150 grit wont make
any diff in the looks dept,and most factory furniture is sanded to 150
only..
                        Lee ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:16 EST 1997
Article: 194026 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stickley furniture care?
Message-ID: <8D512E0.0233014EFA.uuout@csoft-net.com>
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Good way to clean most furniture is to Rub Waterless Mechanics
Handcleaner on it with a 4/0 or Very fine steel wool pad. Use Cleaner
that has no pumice added to it and says PETROLEUM somewhere on the
ingredient label,,This is a gentle way to remove yrs of accumalated crap
and can restore the piece without harsh treatment. Many pieces would not
have to be refinished if this treatment was used first to actually see
what kinda shape its really in. Try it on a small area first if in
doubt/
                               Lee Ward

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From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:17 EST 1997
Article: 194027 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Redwood OK for a Deck?
Message-ID: <8D512F9.0233014EFD.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 12:41:00 -0600
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Western Red Cedar i believe is good for Decks,Problem with Wood outside
is mainly sunlight,and 2yrs is when maintainance is usually needed
regardless of what your usin for wood or finish it all needs
maintainance..There are tricks to bldg decks to maximize wood life,and
prevent warpage,buckling,etc..A howto book may be in order..
                                         Lee Ward

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From dave-b@hpwarhj.an.hp.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:17 EST 1997
Article: 194028 of rec.woodworking
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From: David Burton <dave-b@hpwarhj.an.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine Wood Derby Cars
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 06:36:46 -0800
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Stephen & Amy McClune wrote:

> 
> As a Cub Scout den leader I have been to quite a few of these and I
> believe that the more work the kid does the better. I have also seen a
> little guy who did all the work himself become totally humiliated when
> his car wouldn't even make it all the way down the track! There is a
> happy medium.
> 

	The official SCout magazine a couple years ago had an article
	on the derby and said that the object is that the child and the
	parent work together on the car.  I thinks it's just as misguided
	to leave a kid on his own to do it as it is for the adult to do
	it all.  The point is to have a good working together experience.

	DB


From jnorman@ccse.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:18 EST 1997
Article: 194029 of rec.woodworking
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From: John Norman <jnorman@ccse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 06:22:40 -0500
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Jack Juhola wrote:
> 
> Bill Davis Jr. wrote:
> >
> >I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
> > designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
> > experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
> 
> I've been using DrawingBoard for several months now, and after using
> TurboCad, AutoCad, and TommySoft's program, have found this to be far
> and away the most intuitive to use. Really easy to pick up the
> fundamentals. It has a feature they call "Drawing Assistant" that pulls
> up temporary construction lines for perpendiculars, parallels, squares,
> etc. You can download their demo version, DrawingBoard LT, from MCE
> Software's web site at www.mcesoft.com. Hope this helps.
> 
> Jack J.


Hi Bill,

   I want to cast my vote for DrawingBoard also.  Having used several
other programs, this one is fast to learn and easy to use.  Another
program to consider is 3D Home Architect, it has components that you
plug in and can modify the dimensions.  It will also give you a 3D view,
which is good for clients that can't visulize from a plan view or
elevation.

   I use both of there programs in my custom woodworking business and am
happy with them.

Let my know how you make out.

cya

J


From jbacc@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:19 EST 1997
Article: 194030 of rec.woodworking
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From: Joe <jbacc@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wolfcraft Biscuits too thick for slots cut by Ryobi Biscuit joiner
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 06:34:47 -0500
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T. W. Clapp wrote:
> 
> BAKE YOUR BISCUITS!  That's right, when they swell up due to humidity, put
> them on a cookie sheet and plop 'em in the oven at 200deg or so for about
> 15-20 minutes.  Shrinks them back to proper size to fit in the slots.
> Living in Houston (humid!!!) I do this all the time.
> 
> Mark Young <marky@up.net> wrote in article <333B7CE1.130C@up.net>...
> > Heck, after finally concluding that I'd keep the newly purchased Ryobi,
> > I found tonight the hard way that the biscuits that came with the tool
> > were considerably thinner than the bulk packs of a hundred or so made by
> > Wolfcraft.
> >
> > Question: are Woldcrafts' biscuits standard size or rather thick. I.e.,
> > are the included biscuits supplied by Ryobi substandard thickness? Who
> > is not living up to specs?!!!
> > Thanks,
> >
> > (Remove the "X" in address when replying)
> > newsgroup respondents: Please email or cc: to my email address
> >
> > Mark Young
> > marky@up.net
> > acoustic@up.net
> >
> >

I microwave my biscuits and they shrink back to normal size!

Joe


From lee.ward@csoft-net.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:20 EST 1997
Article: 194031 of rec.woodworking
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From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for projects on the Web
Message-ID: <8D512FF.0233014EFE.uuout@csoft-net.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 12:47:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
References: <grphcart-3103972302150001@ppp-10.ts-9.hck.idt.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194031

Type WOOD into your Search engine input box and you should get over
50,000 places ultimately to look for plans,Frankly i would prefer my
plans from the libbrary where there are usually quite a few,And many
projects have whole books devoted-stuff like Outdoor
stuff,Birdfeeders,Birdhouses,Cabinets,Furniture,Antique
furniture,Tables,Chairs,Doors,Windows,and Garden
Furnitiure,Toys,Carving,Woodturning,and hundreds more free for the
asking If your lucky enuff to have a library close by.Ive seen alot of
plans online too and many look good.....
                                      Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------


-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From mike.laing@sympatico.ca Wed Apr  2 12:16:21 EST 1997
Article: 194032 of rec.woodworking
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From: Mike Laing <mike.laing@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bandsaw Resawing "Logs into Lumber??"
Date: 2 Apr 1997 11:37:05 GMT
Organization: Sympatico
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I would like to hear from anyone who has resawn logs into boards and if 
they found the experience worthwhile in terms of saving money on lumber 
costs.  I would also like an opinion from anyone who owns a 14" Delta 
Bandsaw with the optional height attachment.

Mike



From jelam@intrex.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:22 EST 1997
Article: 194033 of rec.woodworking
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From: "J. Cliff Elam" <jelam@intrex.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: FS Leigh Dovetail Jig
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 06:41:45 -0500
Organization: Intrex Inc.
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <334245F9.41FF@intrex.net>
References: <3341a562.2823835@news.lloyd.com>
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Floyd wrote:
> 
> My neighbor has unused Leigh Dovetail jig (paid $450). Sell for $350.
> Has video and bits.  Email bartling@innercite.com for phone number
> (Calif)

I'd be interested in talking to him about it.

- Cliff
919-403-9727


From lamphier@nospam@m.u-tokyo.ac.jp Wed Apr  2 12:16:23 EST 1997
Article: 194034 of rec.woodworking
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From: "M. Lamphier" <"lamphier@nospam"@m.u-tokyo.ac.jp>
Newsgroups: rec.toys.cars,rec.toys.lego,rec.toys.misc,rec.travel.air,rec.travel.cruises,rec.travel.europe,rec.travel.usa-canada,rec.video.desktop,rec.video.production,rec.video.satellite.dbs,rec.video.satellite.tvro,rec.woodworking,relcom.commerce.chemical,relcom.com
Subject: Re: Spam does hurt us (Was Re: Nailing Spamers)
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:16:45 +0900
Organization: Network Operation Centre, The University of Tokyo
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MrCynick wrote:

> 
> We can do something about spam.  There needs to be legislation similar
> to that regulating telephone sales, to prohibit spammers from using
> false names & addresses, and to require that they honor requests from
> newsgroups and individuals not to send them any more spam.
> 

Now this is a reasonable and serious suggestion. There is something 
wrong with anyone being able to cram my mailbox, for which I have to pay 
a fee to use, with advertisments I didn't ask for, and then to hide 
behind a phony return e-mail address and not honor requests to stop. Not 
to mention that many of these bulk e-mailers churn out thousands of e-
mail messages, which essentially is making inordinate use of other 
people's computer resources (the relay servers, etc) for their own 
profit. Someone ultimately has to pay for the phone lines, computer 
capacity, etc. that makes up the internet, and it is not fair if a small 
% of people generate 1000x the normal number of messages just because 
they aren't required to pay anything extra in order to do so.

-Marc


From opencon@primenet.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:24 EST 1997
Article: 194035 of rec.woodworking
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From: opencon@primenet.com (Marty Escarcega)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaw choice: Ryobi vs. Grizzly vs. Used Delta Unisaw
Date: 2 Apr 1997 05:30:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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At $725 The Grizzly 1023 Cabinet saw, 3hp is a GREAT buy right now. I have one 
had been VERY pleased with it. I would seriously look into it. Shipping is a 
factor in cost, but that also depends how close you live to one of their two 
warehouses.

Marty

In article <01bc3f07$d9a93fc0$09bea1ce@abr-as1s09.erols.com>, "RKJ@CATS" 
<rhjdh1j@erols.com> wrote:
>BYE AMERICAN
>
>rbowles96@aol.com wrote in article
><19970328143400.JAA25052@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
>> In article <MPG.da43c3c2d67fe3b989684@news.tulane.edu>,
>winstead@eecs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) writes:
>> 
>> >
>> >So, I really just want some feedback on the Ryobi and the Grizzly from 
>> >people that have had to pick between the two, and maybe someone could 
>> >comment on the used Delta Unisaw as a potential choice.
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Ted
>> >
>> >-- 
>> >Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead  
>|http://www.eecs.tulane.edu/www/Winstead
>> >winstead@eecs.tulane.edu           | 
>> >Tulane Medical School Class of 2000| 
>> >
>> >
>> 
>> My BT3000 is 5 years old and I appreciate the portability it lends.  I
>could not have a saw in the middle of the garage so it gets "parked"
>against the wall almost every night.  Use DEJANEWS to find
>> the summary evaluation by 8 owners of the saw and some accessories. 
>E-mail if you can't find.  One in the local paper with outfeed and side
>tables for $400.  Someone is unhappy.
>> 


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Wed Apr  2 12:16:25 EST 1997
Article: 194036 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-xfer.netaxs.com!news.fast.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!130.253.192.9!noc.nyx.net!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Screw hiding device
Date: 2 Apr 1997 05:37:36 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <5htjug$3s7@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <333C75C8.3DF7@black-hole.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194036

That little trick can be used to hide finishing nails or brads.  I've 
never seen anybody with the nerve to try to raise a curl big enough to 
hide a screw and then get it back in good shape.  I doubt you could 
camouflage the result any better (or maybe even as well) as a wood plug 
cut flush and sanded.  I've never tried it though.

rhg

In article <333C75C8.3DF7@black-hole.com>,
Joann & David Harms  <JDHarms@black-hole.com> wrote:
>A customer asked me about a device to hide screw heads in wood. He said
>it has a sharp, narrow planer type blade, which when struck on top with
>a hammer, cuts a thin strip on three sides and rolls it back. Then you
>drill, countersink and screw your joint together. Then you simply apply
>glue, roll the strip back into place, clamp, and sand.
>  I would like to know the name, manufacturer,price etc. If anyone has
>used one please respond and let me know how well it works. Are there
>different sizes? How wide a cut is it?  the guy wants to use it on oak
>newl posts so the screws are  quite large. Thanks in advance for any
>info.




From holder1@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:26 EST 1997
Article: 194037 of rec.woodworking
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From: Robert Holderman <holder1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Rocking Cradle Plans
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 16:06:12 GMT
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I'm looking for plans for a rocking type (not swinging) baby cradle.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Bob Holderman


From georog@mis.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:26 EST 1997
Article: 194038 of rec.woodworking
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From: georog@mis.net (George Rogers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 13:23:36 GMT
Organization: Rogers Woodworking
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <5hr6d7$edb@netnews.mis.net>
References: <859783063.20329@dejanews.com> <8D5128A.0233014EAE.uuout@csoft-net.com> <haubert.241.00101495@mbi.org> <3341DFF5.2DE6@webspam.net>
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>Henkl-Harris, a manufacturer of $25,000 dining room sets made of SOLID
>CHERRY stains their wood. Kittinger, a manufacturer of $17,000 desks
>stains their cherry, walnut, mahogany and rare exotics. Hardin
>Furniture, a manufacturer who has their own forests to cut their own
>lumber makes solid wood high end furniture -- stained, glazed and toned!
>Kindel, a manufacturer who makes high end furniture AND museum quality
>reproductions (go to the mansions in Newprt, RI) stains, glazes, tones
>and fly-specks their woods!

>My point is (if it is not transparent enough) that nothing could be
>further from the truth. Staining techniques can be used to match woods,
>as well as to create an aesthetic quality to the wood. Unstained natural
>wood is only ONE type of aesthetic. 

Just proves having money doesn't mean you have good taste.

>If one is so purist about the wood, leave it wrapped inside the bark.
>(Maybe that is the agenda of the Tree Huggers: they are so doctrinaire
>about wood that utilizing any tree is blashemous to them).
>-- 
>(To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
>-------
>Daniel

>    / `-' )        ,,,
>   | IU U||||||||[:::]
>    \_.-.(         '''

George Rogers
georog@mis.net
http://wp.com/georog/georog.htm



From bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us Wed Apr  2 12:16:27 EST 1997
Article: 194039 of rec.woodworking
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From: bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: 2 Apr 1997 08:42:41 -0500
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
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In article <3341DFF5.2DE6@webspam.net>,  <shafner@webspam.net> wrote:

>Henkl-Harris, a manufacturer of $25,000 dining room sets made of SOLID
>CHERRY stains their wood. Kittinger, a manufacturer of $17,000 desks
>stains their cherry, walnut, mahogany and rare exotics. Hardin
>Furniture, a manufacturer who has their own forests to cut their own
>lumber makes solid wood high end furniture -- stained, glazed and toned!
>Kindel, a manufacturer who makes high end furniture AND museum quality
>reproductions (go to the mansions in Newprt, RI) stains, glazes, tones
>and fly-specks their woods!
>
>My point is (if it is not transparent enough) that nothing could be
>further from the truth. Staining techniques can be used to match woods,
>as well as to create an aesthetic quality to the wood. Unstained natural
>wood is only ONE type of aesthetic.

At $25,000 and $17,000, I should think that the manufacturer could
afford to spend the time to select properly matching wood. If they
don't bother to match up their stock, charge that much, and cut corners
by staining to match, one wonders if they truly qualify as a
manufacturer of fine furniture. If this is the case, do they make it a
selling point by proudly telling their prospective customers that they
used inferior stock and made it all match up by browbeating it into
submission? :-) I know of custom furniture folks who I'm sure would be
glad of a comission for a $17,000 desk and they would make sure that
the wood actually matched (and use primo stuff).  As far as the
aesthetics: Some folks like to pickle or slap milk paint on oak (or
stain cherry). In my view, this is just-plain-wrong. Of course YMMV
(and does). Why bother to use nice cherry if you're going to make it
look artificial or cover up the fact? You could use anything that takes
a stain and provides the proper physical properties. I suspect that
part of the raw nerve the "stained cherry" crowd touchs here in 
rec.ww is the folks who like natural cherry, would love to use more of
it, but can't afford it because the price is driven high by folks who
want "genuine cherry" (dark, reddish, and bland), like they seed in the
furny-ture store. 

>If one is so purist about the wood, leave it wrapped inside the bark.
>(Maybe that is the agenda of the Tree Huggers: they are so doctrinaire
>about wood that utilizing any tree is blashemous to them).

Negative, they (T.H.) are usually more concerned about the ecological
impacts of removing said tree. Personally, I believe that in the long
run, proper forestry practices coupled with an economic incentive to
preserve woods/forests will prevail over "tree hugging". I suspect that
North Amercia only retains as much forest land as it does due to a
longer term approach to forestry by some of the large logging concerns.
This works out well, we (woodworkers) continue to get a reliable supply
of wood (except, of course, that the price of cherry is driven up
articially by people who do the finish equivalent of fingernail
polishing it :-), the critters get a place to live, the lumber
companies, harvesters, lumber wholesalers and retailers, etc., and the
land owners get returns on their investment, etc. The economic
incentive to take the "longer view" has (arguably) been provided by the
continuing demand for wood for a variety of uses, including our
woodworking hobbies and businesses.  Happy all around. If the wisdom of
said model were more universally recognized, it would probably save
more forests than all the efforts of the tree huggers of the world
combined by an order of several magnitudes.

-- 
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.  


From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:28 EST 1997
Article: 194040 of rec.woodworking
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From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Redwood OK for a Deck?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 14:02:30 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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References: <E7LnC7.5u9@world.std.com>
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pwilson@world.std.com (Pete Wilson) wrote:

;I need to build a deck about 14 x 12 on the very sunny south
;side of my house in central Massachusetts. Pressure-treated 
;pine, imo, looks like hell after a couple of years so I want 
;to use something else. If I were rich, I'd use teak I guess, 
;but I'm not so I won't. I have the idea that redwood might work.

;Would redwood be OK for such a deck? 
;Would it turn a nice grey in the weather? 
;Would it tend to split, cup, and splinter like PT pine?
;Needs to be low- or no-maintenance; redwood OK for that?
;What other lumber might be good?

;-- Thanks and Regards, Pete Wilson (pwilson@world.std.com)
;++ Often in error, never in doubt (tm) kc ++

I dont know where you are located but in the south seems to me cypress
is a viable solution ,so long as it is not physically in contact with
the earth.
                              mjh



From mikehide@mindspring.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:29 EST 1997
Article: 194041 of rec.woodworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news-out.communique.net!communique!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Shaper
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 14:08:57 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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QYLM60A@prodigy.com (Joseph Young) wrote:

;Anyone with experience with one of these?  Am considering
one.Appreciate 
;anyone who has used one to give opinion.

I also have the 3HP version and have had good service out of it .The
only objection I have with not only Grizzley but most Asian equipment
Ihave come across is the use of mild steel in their fasteners . What I
do is to replace them with the equivalent US high tension versions .
                            mjh



From popwood@earthlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:30 EST 1997
Article: 194042 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chris Schwarz <popwood@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood choices for Adirondack chairs?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 08:29:38 +0000
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Pine and fir are fine if you are going to paint the chairs every few years. If 
you want a more natural look, I'd suggest using white oak. Red oak has an 
open cellular structure and will suck water like a straw. 

Your other options are more expensive. Teak and mahogany are both 
excellent outdoor woods. But open the checkbook wide.

Chris Schwarz
Popular Woodworking


From emailaddress@bottomofpage.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:31 EST 1997
Article: 194043 of rec.woodworking
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please dont support businesses who spam commercial advertisements across 
usenet.

their spamming is a clue that they're not to be trusted


From klb@ti.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:32 EST 1997
Article: 194044 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kurt Blank" <klb@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue vs screwing large top on Cabinet ?
Date: 2 Apr 1997 14:01:10 GMT
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Douglas Bailey <dbailey@bnr.ca> wrote in article
<5hrtif$ir6@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>...
> If I'm clear on what you're describing here, you can do better.
> 
>lots of snip

> >Peter Neil.

Peter,
Very interesting and thorough.  I'm curious though. I live in the Dallas,
TX area and have been working with Oak (red & white) for over a decade. 
I've really never taken the movement of wood seriously and have never had a
piece crack or a joint break.  In the Douglas Bailey scenario I would
definitely screw the top on.  If it's a tall cabinet, I would just scew
>from  the top into the sides and put a plywood back on with tiny nails. 
None of the hardware would be seen.  I've never witnessed a screw coming
loose over time.  Now, I'm only talking about 12 years, maybe I'll see
something happen later on.  I've, also, made posts to this group asking if
anyone has  witnessed a glue joint breaking on a piece of furniture and
haven't seen any replies.  I may have missed them. 

Anyway, I'm still curious if the amount of time and effort some put into
the glueing and worrying about movement is worth it.
Regards,
Kurt


From redgate@tulsa.oklahoma.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:33 EST 1997
Article: 194045 of rec.woodworking
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From: redgate@tulsa.oklahoma.net (Kirk Kerekes)
Newsgroups: alt.hvac,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Furnace Filter dust filtration efficiency - info.
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 08:24:40 -0600
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In article <33413055.1B82@qgraph.com>, damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com> wrote:

. I am building a fine dust collector for my woodworking shop.  I plan to
. use an old furnace blower and I need to select an appropriate filter
. system to filter the fine dust particles out of the air.

I don't know where you are located, but in the US, HEPA filters are
commonly available.

-- 
Kirk & Diane Kerekes
Redgate@Tulsa.oklahoma.net


From jameson@planetc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:34 EST 1997
Article: 194046 of rec.woodworking
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 08:34:28 -0600
From: jameson@planetc.com
Subject: RED OAK WANTED
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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I am looking for the following:

5/4 Red Oak, dried, rough 12" x 50"  -  20 pieces

               OR

1 1/16" Red oak, dried, planed  12" x 50"   -  20 pieces

respond via email to jameson@planetc.com or Contact Don Belcher at
423-272-9556

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ddrewek@qgraph.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:35 EST 1997
Article: 194047 of rec.woodworking
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From: damian drewek <ddrewek@qgraph.com>
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Vibration (Jet 14") and new question
Message-ID: <33426F44.174@qgraph.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 08:37:57 -0600
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Les Bartel wrote:
> 
> All replies deleted, subject stands for itself.
> 
> I added levelling legs to my Jet 14".  That seems to help with vibration
> a bit - it ensures that the saw is stable on my slightly uneven floor.
> 
> Now for another question:
> 
> Is it just me or are the guide blocks junk?  After only a little sawing
> with my 1/4" blade, the upper blocks are worn quite badly, allowing the
> blade to twist as I make a curved cut.  Trueing them up on my belt
> sander helps until the wear again.  A 3/8 blade works better.  I've
> built a roller bearing guide to replace the upper blocks.  I haven't
> used it enough yet to know how well it will stand up.  When I took the
> block holder off, I noticed that it might be bent - the line formed by
> the casting molds was a bit crooked.  Is this correct or bent?
> 
>  - les
> 
> --
> 
> I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
> Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
> mean.
> 
> My return mail address in the header is munged to prevent spammers
> from getting my real address.
> 
> Les Bartel
> lbartel@veribest.com
> VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
> Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)

Not sure on holder, might want to call Jet.  One thing I know is the
guide blocks are not metal.  I understand this as good.  They are like
the cool blocks and if your blade touches them they will wear.



From bigchris@pagesz.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:36 EST 1997
Article: 194048 of rec.woodworking
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From: bigchris@pagesz.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita 9.6V Batteries
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 09:39:53 -0500
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Len Collins wrote:
> 
> Steve, Chris has given you accurate information except for running the
> drill until it wont turn any more.  Each of your batteries is made up
> of 8 individual cells of 1.2V each connected in series (the same
> current passes thru each) and these cells are not matched in capacity.
> When your drill starts to lose power this signifies that the cell with
> the lowest capacity has run down.  If you continue to to use power at
> this point the remaining cells will force current thru the depleted
> cell in the discharge direction.  This is one of the two main causes
> of damage to a NiCad battery, the other is heat.  If you could get to
> the terminals of each cell and discharge them individually you could
> run them completely down without damage.  But since they are in series
> this is not possible.  

That's good advice Len, and absolutely true for most NiCad operated
equipment.  In the case of the Makita drill however, the electronic
control circuit that actually runs the drill motor "drops out" before
any of the cells are completely exhausted.  It's a good design and
probably explains why Steve's batteries have lasted as long as they have
without experiencing a cell reversal failure.

Chris Hubner


From specwood@INDIRECT.COM Wed Apr  2 12:16:37 EST 1997
Article: 194049 of rec.woodworking
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From: "GEORGE M. KAZAKA" <specwood@INDIRECT.COM>
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:194049

----------
> From: shafner@WEBSPAM.NET
> To: WOODWORK@VMB.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
> Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
> Date: Tuesday, April 01, 1997 9:26 PM
>
> haubert@mbi.org wrote:
> >
> > In article <8D5128A.0233014EAE.uuout@csoft-net.com>
lee.ward@csoft-net.com
> (LEE WARD) writes:
> > >From: lee.ward@csoft-net.com (LEE WARD)
> > >Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
> > >Date: Tue, 01 Apr 97 10:50:00 -0600
> >
> > >Cherry is used so ya dont require stain,Stain is used to make Cheap
> > >woods look like expensive ones,,However if ya do use a stain lotsa
luck
> > >on cherry as cherry is FAMOUS for blotchiness due to density
> > >digfferences in wood grain..
> > >                               Lee Ward
> >
> > Lee, VERY well said!
> >
> > And, thanks for not referring us to the library.
>
> Henkl-Harris, a manufacturer of $25,000 dining room sets made of SOLID
> CHERRY stains their wood. Kittinger, a manufacturer of $17,000 desks
> stains their cherry, walnut, mahogany and rare exotics. Hardin
> Furniture, a manufacturer who has their own forests to cut their own
> lumber makes solid wood high end furniture -- stained, glazed and toned!
> Kindel, a manufacturer who makes high end furniture AND museum quality
> reproductions (go to the mansions in Newprt, RI) stains, glazes, tones
> and fly-specks their woods!
>
> My point is (if it is not transparent enough) that nothing could be
> further from the truth. Staining techniques can be used to match woods,
> as well as to create an aesthetic quality to the wood. Unstained natural
> wood is only ONE type of aesthetic.
>
> If one is so purist about the wood, leave it wrapped inside the bark.
> (Maybe that is the agenda of the Tree Huggers: they are so doctrinaire
> about wood that utilizing any tree is blashemous to them).
> --
> (To reply, change "webspam" to "webspan" in my e-mail address.)
> -------
>   Daniel
>
>     / `-' )        ,,,
>    | IU U||||||||[:::]
>     \_.-.(         '''


Very well Put Daniel and also something that needed to be said, I happen to
hold those same thoughts and beliefs.
One thing i wood like to add is that I am amazed at the amount of posts
that come thru this forum about
 Cherry being difficult to stain due to its blotchiness.
 I am a professional woodworker and have been for 42 years.
I have never had a problem with finishing cherry for any reason including
blotchiness.
I have several freinds and know a numerous many other pro woodworkers that
have never had this problem either.
I have never come across anyone in the professional field that consider
Cherry to have a problem with the so called Infamous Blotchiness.
This forum is the only place that this every comes up.
Woodworking and all aspects therof is a great place for experimentation and
development there is not to much in this field that is carved in concrete.
I have seen some interesting questions and interesting results from this
here on rec woodworking,
I have also seen a lot of garbage spewed here also.
The biggest area of garbarge is generally in the field of finishing. Which
is a part of this business that has the broadest area open to
experimentation.
However for the life of me i cannot fathom the amount of posts i read on
Cherry blotchiness.
It Just Is not there.
I will try to answer any questions on this to the best of my ability here
or by private e-mail.
The idiot remarks and the flames will be ignored.

George


From klb@ti.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:38 EST 1997
Article: 194050 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Kurt Blank" <klb@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworkerr Supply vs. Home Depot
Date: 2 Apr 1997 14:46:55 GMT
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snip

Comparing HD to any specialty store is futile.  It's like comparing K-mart
to Schwin to buy a hybrid bike or to The Grill Doctor for grills.  I have a
Ace hardware and a True Value hardware store in the area where I go and get
information from trained staff.  And if I can buy something at HD for
cheaper and I know what I want I go there.
Regards,
Kurt

Database Coder <dbcoder@juno.com> wrote in article
<01bc3edd$ffcf4700$1bbdb3cd@the_tick.mediware.com>...



From jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu Wed Apr  2 12:16:39 EST 1997
Article: 194051 of rec.woodworking
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From: jason Steward <jhstew01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 tablesaw
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 09:35:24 +0000
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David was wondering if a 1 1/2 horse motor was going to be enough.  

I have a 1 1/2 horse motor on my table saw, and my suggestion is to by 
a forrest Woodworker II thin kerf blade and a stabilizer.  Expensive, 
yes, but the thin kerf, and quality of the blade will repay you many 
times in the lack of headaches, smoothness of cut, and the ease with 
which it slices through wood.  It stays sharp 5-6 times longer than 
the less expensive blades I have bought.  This will definitely improve 
the performance of your saw.

jhs

NOTE
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From billh@tfs.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:40 EST 1997
Article: 194052 of rec.woodworking
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From: billh@tfs.net (Bill Hartmann)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Any Mobile Base Recommendations?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 14:44:52 GMT
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Brad

Jet makes a retractable caster set, the JRC-1. The bolt right on to
the legs. I have used them on the JWTS and they work real nice. You
can get them from tool crib. I just used two lower them and the wheel
barrow the saw. Call Jet and see if it will work on the JTAS.

Also Delta has out a new universal mobile base (pn 50-345). It is like
their mobile base, but you supply wooden rails that tie the corners to
together so that you can size it to fit.

Bill

Brad Erickson <brad@capella.com> wrote:

>I have a Jet cabinet JTAS-10 with a 30" fence. Need a mobile base.
>the Vega looks interesting??  does anyone have Recommendations???
>Thanks,
>Brad
>-- 

>   ***CAPELLA NETWORKING - WEST***		    
>   http://capella.sj.ca.us	   Phone:    800-649-7928            
>   Email: brad:capella.com	   Fax:      408-358-8710
>   Worldwide distributor of:  3Com, Adtran, Ascend, American
>   Power, Assurnet, Cisco, Compatible, Computone, Kentrox,
>   Livingston, Microcom, PacificBell, Shiva, U.S. Robotics




From CJNC57A@prodigy.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:42 EST 1997
Article: 194053 of rec.woodworking
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From: CJNC57A@prodigy.com (Fred Nolte)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: finishvsrandomsander
Date: 2 Apr 1997 15:07:34 GMT
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my old(REALLY old) finish sander just died, and i need to know the pros 
and cons of a square finish sander vs a round random orbital sander.  i 
use it for sanding hardwood furniture, and since i hate sanding(almost as 
much as i hate finishing) i want the best.  thanks in advance for your 
help.



From theroman@pacbell.net Wed Apr  2 12:16:43 EST 1997
Article: 194054 of rec.woodworking
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From: theroman@pacbell.net (Jim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Computer Cad programs Advice Needed!!
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 15:24:23 GMT
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Hi-

My CAD input is as follows:
I have used  AutoCAD, Drafters Choice, TurboCAD, HP's CAD & Drawing
Board.

My choice for day in day out CADing is Drawing board.  It is a fairly
recent program Windows 3.1 and it doesn't have all that backward
compatibility problems that AutoCAD has for instance.

I own TurboCAD and found it to be a touchy program.  for instance, I
could never get TurboCAD to dimension dead air space, but Drawing
board does it readily.  

AutoCAD for commercial work is the King.  But, that $3500 price is a
little steep. Drawing Board is about $140.00 and if you don't use it
everyday, you will still be able to work it.  
At first glance, Drawing Board doesn't seem to be full featured, but
it is.  Many tedius tasks & setup tasks are automated by default;
which means you don't have to learn or remember as much to work the
program.

The method DB uses to layout is as modern as tomorrow.  My buddy's
large rocket engine company just upgraded its many CAD programs and
Drawing Board includes many of these programs latest features.  
As a tribute to DB's intuitive ease of operation, my buddy and I were
also able to work it with a great deal of success, straight out of the
box - without using the manual.

Of course, using the manual is better.  The tutorial is extensive and
pure delight.
The only thing I dislike about Drawing Board is the short file names
of Windows 3.1.

I don't work for these guys, but it is a pleasure to see a damn good
program for cheap.  Check it out, it is well worth your time and
money.  --> www.mcesoft.com

Hope this is of some help.  Let me know what you decide.

Jim - theroman@pacbell.net
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:57:35 GMT, billd@ssnet.com (Bill Davis Jr.)
wrote:

>All,
>	I wont to buy a computer cad program for doing some furniture
>designs and also doing some home remodling. Has any one had any
>experience with any cad programs that are out on the market?
>
>Any advice would be helpful
>
>Thanks!
>
>Bill D
>billd@ssnet.com
>



From biglou13@highway1.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:44 EST 1997
Article: 194055 of rec.woodworking
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From: biglou13@highway1.com (Louis Rucci)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Archiving
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:24:40 -0500
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Was beginning to save the last 2 months of messages and had a hard drvie 
crash. If anyone's been archiving this newsgroup I'd appreciate a copy of 
the messagtes.

Thanks,

Lou


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 12:16:45 EST 1997
Article: 194056 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's Technique
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 09:50:38 -0500
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Hodcarry wrote:
> 
> An effective way to hide the nail holes (regardless if the nails are
> removed after the glue dries)  is to raise a chip with a chisel ( leaving
> one end still attached to the work) and drive the nail under the chip then
> glue the chip back down.

You're right about that but how does Norm fit the pneumatic nailer
under that sliver of wood?  He doesn't have a hammer, you know...

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu

ob.rec.ww:  Do spindle sanders work as well on inside curves as
            stationary disk sanders work on outside curves?  If
            so, I gotta start saving my nickels.  My new Grizzly
            6" belt/9" disk sander works great!  It was an early
            birthday present...


From agbob@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:46 EST 1997
Article: 194057 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Robert J. Daun" <agbob@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaw Resawing "Logs into Lumber??"
Date: 2 Apr 1997 15:45:15 GMT
Organization: RJD Associates
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The last issue of Wood Magazine has an extensive article on using a chain
saw device for sawing logs into lumber.  This looks like a more viable
option than a bandsaw unless it is a very large one or the logs are small.

Mike Laing <mike.laing@sympatico.ca> wrote in article
<5htgd1$kqg$1@news1.sympatico.ca>...
> I would like to hear from anyone who has resawn logs into boards and if 
> they found the experience worthwhile in terms of saving money on lumber 
> costs.  I would also like an opinion from anyone who owns a 14" Delta 
> Bandsaw with the optional height attachment.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 


From boheggus@ix.netcom.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:47 EST 1997
Article: 194058 of rec.woodworking
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From: boheggus@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recycle pallets?
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 15:42:46 GMT
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adowellcpa@aol.com (ADowellcpa) spoke thusly:

>I am thinking about reusing wood pallets to make a wood ceiling for my
>basement. I do not own a planner; however, I am looking at a few 12"
>types.  What are the pros and cons?  I know the wood will contain quite a
>bit of dirt and I must pull all staples/nails.  Anyone know of any other
>problems I might run into.  I alos know this would be tons of work. 
>Thanks for any advise.  E-mail to:  TOMHOWKO@AOL.COM  

If you've never tried to disassemble a pallet before, try it first.
Those things are built to LAST, at least the good ones. Forget about
trying to pull the nails as most are ring-shank or spiral nails and
are damn near impossible to pull. Take a chainsaw or circular saw to
it.

I used to work in a lumberyard and we'd get in dozens of pallets every
week of every imaginable type. The best were the ones that came from a
countertop manufacturer. They were 16 feet long and built out of 12/4
and 8/4 oak. We were supposed to send them back to the manufacturer
but that rarely happened. If you're serious about it, I highly
recommend checking the local lumber yard. Its amazing how much decent
hardwood you can come away with if you find the right yardman and slip
him a few bucks.

FWIW,

Josh

-Insert clever and witty sig line here.



From agbob@execpc.com Wed Apr  2 12:16:48 EST 1997
Article: 194059 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Robert J. Daun" <agbob@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Posts
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It pleases me to see that more and more people are putting their replies
above the original question.  This is the most efficient way to read the
posts.  Also before posting, delete the majority of the message leaving
just enough to clarify what the original question was.
-- 
Bob


From jhware@mail.med.upenn.edu Wed Apr  2 12:16:49 EST 1997
Article: 194060 of rec.woodworking
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From: jhware@mail.med.upenn.edu (Jeff Ware)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: dilbert
Date: 2 Apr 1997 15:46:41 GMT
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Those who appreciate comic strips may wish to see today's (4/2) Dilbert on
line at

http://www.unitedmedia.com/comics/dilbert/

I laughed out loud!

--Jeff


From pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu Wed Apr  2 12:16:50 EST 1997
Article: 194061 of rec.woodworking
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From: Paul Worth <pworth@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tom and Norm's Technique
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 10:23:01 -0500
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Mike McDonald wrote:
> 
Discussion of wood movement and trim application deleted...

>   This all makes sense provided the top is made out of the same material that
> the molding is made out of. In my case, that's not true. The molding is solid
> oak. The top is oak veneered plywood. I'd expect them to expand differently.
> (I'm a newbie so I have no idea if what I'm saying makes sense or not. It's
> just my educated guess.)
> 
>   Does anyone have a table of expansion factors for various woods and
> composites? I'd guess it'd have to specify what temperature and humidity range
> it was for.
> 
I'm sure there must be such tables available somewhere.  For many
composites, the expansion factor is near zero.  Check out the site
    http://www.apawood.org
for info on lots of engineered wood products.  They don't have a 
lot online but they have pointers to brochures and manufacturers.
Does Hoadley's book have these tables for solid woods.  I don't
recall....

-=Paul Worth=-
pworth@valdosta.edu


From stevez@stevez.ultranet.com Wed Apr  2 12:35:23 EST 1997
Article: 194062 of rec.woodworking
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From: stevez@stevez.ultranet.com (Steve Zuromski)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Stanley-Bostitch vs Senco nailers
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 16:22:39 GMT
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I'm a hobbist and I've been struggling with a decision over which
brand brad and finish nailer to buy.  The price of the PC brand is
tempting but I've always been skeptical of products made overseas.
Although the PC units appear to be well made, I wonder how well they
will hold up.  I've also heard a complaint of multi-firing. I
generally prefer the quality of USA-made and will most often go that
way when decision time comes.
Now I'm stuck between Stanley-Bostitch and Senco.  Everyone seems to
think Senco is the best, but IMHO the quality of their $259 brad
nailer appears substandard.  The same nailer in S-B only costs $167;
then drop down to the PC at $98.
I realize that you generally get what you pay for but it really looks
to me like Senco is way over priced or am I paying a lot more for the
oil-less feature?
After I buy a 5/8 - 1 1/4 brad nailer I need to get a finish nailer.
Can anyone offer advice on which brand and price range I should go
with?




From slafla8866@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:35:24 EST 1997
Article: 194063 of rec.woodworking
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From: slafla8866@aol.com (SLafla8866)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: whirlygigs
Date: 2 Apr 1997 16:42:21 GMT
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I have the same problem finding patterns for any craft or special
projects.
any help would be great.


From toliver@smartlink.net Wed Apr  2 12:35:25 EST 1997
Article: 194064 of rec.woodworking
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From: T&B <toliver@smartlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bathroom Cabinet Finish
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:14:02 -0800
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I have a relatively new house that the builder put the typical thin coat
of lacquer on. Now three years later there are spots looking dried out,
and any attempt to oil them seems to cause it to darken. In the past, I
have undertaken the task of completely refinishing wood kitchen cabinets
and I am not looking forward to doing that again in the near future. Any
suggestions on how to make the existing finish last a few more years?


From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:35:26 EST 1997
Article: 194065 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Crown Molding On the Tablesaw (Long)
Date: 2 Apr 1997 16:59:08 GMT
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Re: A previous post requesting info on cutting crown (cornice) with
tablesaw...

Success!  

FWW No. 105 (The one with the Tool Chest Masterpiece cover - got to wonder
about that cross-grain top...)), Pg. 22 has the complete trig breakout
(assumes 90 degree wall/ceiling and 90 degree wall/wall) plus abridged
version.  FH may have covered this, but I don't have the issue.  For
common angles:

For crown with a 52 deg angle between the ceiling and back of the molding
(this is standard for cyma reversa plus cove, etc.):

1.  Set the blade tilt for 33.9 deg and the miter  gauge to 31.6 deg.  
2.  With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated
counterclockwise to set angle (as viewed above), and lower (wall) edge of
molding against the miter gauge, you should get a left outside cut to the
left of the blade, and a right inside to the right side.
3.   With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated clockwise
to set angle (as viewed above), and upper (ceiling) edge of molding
against the miter gauge, you should get a right outside cut to the left of
the blade, and a left inside to the right side.

For crown with a 45 deg angle between the ceiling and back of the molding
(this is standard for most simple cove molding):

1.  Set the blade tilt for 30.0 deg and the miter  gauge to 35.3 deg.  
2.  With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated
counterclockwise to set angle (as viewed above), and lower (wall) edge of
molding against the miter gauge, you should get a left outside cut to the
left of the blade, and a right inside to the right side.
3.   With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated clockwise
to set angle (as viewed above), and upper (ceiling) edge of molding
against the miter gauge, you should get a right outside cut to the left of
the blade, and a left inside to the right side.

Or, just get a decent back saw and miter box...


From glueman@sure.net Wed Apr  2 12:35:27 EST 1997
Article: 194066 of rec.woodworking
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From: "Dung A. Le" <glueman@sure.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How 'bout Polyamides?
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:26:14 -0800
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Boy, did I open a can of worms or what?  I was commenting on a question
about hot melt not used for permanent bond.  I hope I didn't offend
anybody looking for cheap sticks, especially for the $9.95 gun special.
I am more than happy to send any of you free guns and sticks for you to
evaluate and then you can e-mail me back for comments.

With regards to the 3M guns that can dispense the moisture cure hot
melt, I am not aware of any guns from 3M.  As a matter of fact, 3M guns
and sticks are over-priced.  These moisture cured hot melts are used on
Black Brothers and other simmilar equipment which cost around $15,000. 
There had been many attempts in manufacturing these products into
sticks, but none had been successful.  Gosh, I hope you all aren't
giggling too much.

There are other types of sticks besides EVA which is the most commonly
known in retail.  There are also polyethylene, polyester (for the filter
industry) polyamides (for electronics like satelites, tv, etc.), and
yes, Kraton (which to my knowlege, is manufactured by only one
company.)  Polyamides, by the way, is used heavily in the woodworking
industry.  Some of my furnitures are put together by polyamide sticks,
especially the ones that fell apart after I bought them.  As far as
being expensive or not, I'm so poor, everything to me is expensive.  

My web page is not as detailed as it should be because I'm not allowed
to revealled too much.  My company is totally paranoid, and I really
don't blame it.  In 4 more weeks, watch for the H.B. Fuller Company's
Web site which should be more informative.

Regards,

Dung A. Le


From sfflyer@aol.com Wed Apr  2 12:35:28 EST 1997
Article: 194067 of rec.woodworking
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From: sfflyer@aol.com (SFFLYER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bosch 4200 vs. the Venerable 1500 series Jig Saws
Date: 2 Apr 1997 17:01:15 GMT
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4300/4301 barrel grips are 119 at Lowe's - identical to the 1584.


From dbailey@bnr.ca Wed Apr  2 12:35:29 EST 1997
Article: 194068 of rec.woodworking
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From: dbailey@bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Glue vs screwing large top on Cabinet ?
Date: 2 Apr 1997 16:33:18 GMT
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In article <01bc3f6e$24848bb0$2a35759c@cna0165254>,
Kurt Blank <klb@ti.com> wrote:
>Very interesting and thorough.  I'm curious though. I live in the Dallas,
>TX area and have been working with Oak (red & white) for over a decade. 

>I've, also, made posts to this group asking if
>anyone has  witnessed a glue joint breaking on a piece of furniture and
>haven't seen any replies.  I may have missed them. 

I can give you one specific example that comes to mind.  I built a
chess board a few years ago.  The squares were maple and cherry, a
little bigger than 1.5"x1.5" glued together with grain running the
same direction.  This made the playing surface a little bigger than
12" square.  Around this I mitred a frame of red oak, glued to the
board.  So I had cross grain on two of the sides of the board.

The glue joints cracked and the board started to come apart after
about 18 months.

Contributing factors:
   - the glue was getting old and was past its shelf life.
   - dry winters and humid summers around here.
   - the board was given to a friend who lived in an apartment
     with electric heat -- this exacerbated the humidity swings

What is Dallas like for seasonal changes?  It might be the case that
your weather is easier on the wood than the weather around here.

Can you give an example of a project you've built with a large
cross-grain joint that has survived for several years?  I'm curious of
the techniques you've used.
-- 
Doug Bailey
(dbailey@nortel.ca)


From jep@physics.purdue.edu Wed Apr  2 12:35:30 EST 1997
Article: 194069 of rec.woodworking
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From: jep@physics.purdue.edu (John Paquay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish for Cherry furniture
Date: 2 Apr 1997 16:42:40 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
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In article <5htnoh$gr0@names.freenet.columbus.oh.us>, bobd@freenet.columbus.oh.us says...
>
>I know of custom furniture folks who I'm sure would be
>glad of a comission for a $17,000 desk and they would make sure that
>the wood actually matched (and use primo stuff).  As far as the
>aesthetics: Some folks like to pickle or slap milk paint on oak (or
>stain cherry). In my view, this is just-plain-wrong. Of course YMMV
>(and does). Why bother to use nice cherry if you're going to make it
>look artificial or cover up the fact? You could use anything that takes
>a stain and provides the proper physical properties. I suspect that
>part of the raw nerve the "stained cherry" crowd touchs here in 
>rec.ww is the folks who like natural cherry, would love to use more of
>it, but can't afford it because the price is driven high by folks who
>want "genuine cherry" (dark, reddish, and bland), like they seed in the
>furny-ture store. 
>

Well said, Bob.  For $17,000 I could make a solid cherry desk from
the most beautiful cherry boards on the face of the earth, matched so
that even I wouldn't be able to find the glue joints... and make about
a 2000% profit.  I'd rather slit my throat than spray some ungodly
maroon and fly-specked crud on this imaginary commission.

I'm afraid that most consumers haven't a clue as to what real cherry
looks like.  If you're going to hide the wood with the furniture industry's
status quo glop, you might as well use maple.  The actual grain is
similar enough (though you can't actually see it, anyway), it's harder
and tougher, and a lot less expensive.

If you can't see the wood itself, it doesn't make a bit of difference what
a piece is made of, anyway, in terms of aesthetics.

Gotta run, I've got some Brazilian Rosewood that's ready for another
coat of paint...


-- 
John Paquay
Dept. of Physics, Purdue University
jep@physics.purdue.edu,  jep@belex.mdn.com
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
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