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Newsgroups: rec.travel.asia,soc.culture.china
Subject: The Internet Travel Guide - Tibet  (FAQ)
Message-Id: <45ahmp$ja4@gatekeeper.iis.ch.swissbank.com>
From: geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com (Peter M. Geiser)
Date: 9 Oct 1995 07:07:05 GMT
Followup-To: rec.travel.asia
Organization: Swiss Bank Corporation
Summary: This is a brief travel guide to Tibet. It provides the reader with
 relatively new information about travel related subjects.
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Archive-name: travel/tibet-guide/part1
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Last-modified: 1995-10-08


                                  TIBET

                          The Internet Travel Guide

**************************************************************************

COPYRIGHT NOTICE:

The information provided within this document is the property of the
original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the
exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide". Following the
common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely redistributed
without any modification whatsoever.

However, it may NOT be sold for profit or included in any commercial
documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books,magazines, WWW-pages, or any
other form) without the prior written permission of the copyright
holders. This permission is only valid for the published version at the
time the permission was granted; it does not extend into the future.


Please direct questions, suggestions, comments and flames to

geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com

Last change: 7. October 1995

**************************************************************************

The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest
travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa,
where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to
the Tibetan culture or history (although I started to include some
information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts
are much more pleasanlty presented in many good books (see the list in
section 4 in this FAQ).

Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Tibet the
information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please
bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with
other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can
rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels
to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly apreciate it.

Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This
doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that I
in that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding
a more personal note to the FAQ.

**************************************************************************

CONTENTS
 
 1. GENERAL OVERVIEW
 1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION
 1.2 CLIMATE
 1.3 PEOPLE
 1.4 VISA
 1.5 BORDER CROSSING
 1.6 MONEY
 1.7 ACCOMMODATION
 1.8 FOOD
 1.9 HEALTH

 2. TRANSPORTATION
 2.1 FLYING
 2.2 BUS
 2.3 CAR

 3. PLACES
     LHASA
     SHIGATSE
     SAKYA

 4. LITERATURE
 4.1 GUIDEBOOKS
 4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES
 4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL
 4.4 INTERNET

**************************************************************************

1. GENERAL OVERVIEW

1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION

Since the invasion in 1959, Tibet is political a part of China.

Area          1'221'700 km2
Capital       Lhasa
Borders       China, India, Nepal (1236 km), Bhutan (470 km), Myanmar
Highest point Zhumulamafeng (Mt. Everest), 8848 m

Time          GMT plus eight hours

Measures      Metric
Electricity   220 V, 50 Hz

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.2 CLIMATE

The high altitude of Tibet (most of it is above 4000 m) warrants rather
cold weather.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.3 PEOPLE

Population      1.9 mio
                Tibetan, since the occupation an increasing number of Han
                Chinese
Language        Tibetan, Chinese, some English

For most Tibetans, the Dalai Lama is the highest being in the world,
holy and most revered. Even a photo is considered sacred and of course a
great treasure. Many tourist thus think it is a good idea to give away
photos of their God. This would be so, if there would not be for the
Chinese suppressiors that outlawed these photos. Although the police may
or may not hassle you for handing out Dalai Lama photos, you'll not
really suffer any harm. But the poor Tibetan found out having a photo
will certainly have to face severe problems.

The Dalai Lama himself lives in exile in Dharamsala, India, together
with thousands of Tibetan refugees. To learn more about Tibetan culture,
it might be a good idea to visit this place first. You can also take
Tibetan language classes there or in Kathmandu, Nepal.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.4 VISA

To enter Tibet you need a valid Chinese visa and a travel permit. At the
moment you only get a permit when you are with a group.

It seems that your best chances are at home or in Delhi (stating that
you want to enter by land via Pakistan. Get the Pakistan visa first!)
Don't try to get the visa in Nepal!

Other travellers report that it is best not to tell your intention of
visiting Tibet when applying for a Chinese visa.

If your don't have a valid travel permit, there are two possibilities:
either you are lucky and nothing happens, or you have to pay some
USD 150 to an official. To get the permit, talk to your local embassy
after you have got your passport with a valid visa back.

As for the group tour, it seems possible that two people already count
as a group.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 BORDER CROSSING

It seems much easier to enter Tibet from Nepal than from China. There
are busses from Kathmandu to Tibet (it is about 5 hours to the border.)
Officially, only groups are allowed, but there are always ways. The bus
from Lhasa to the border takes three days. There is a three-times-a-
month bus, that you have to book far in advance.

For the latest information talk to fellow travellers just coming from
Tibet you'll meet in Nepal (e.g. in the Pumpernickle Bakery in
Kathmandu) or in Chengdu.

It is also possible to arrange a 'tour' with fellow travellers. Check
with agencies in Kathmandu.

There are busses or trucks from Golmud. They should cost about USD 100
and takes about 30 hours. It is not quite clear whether this is still
illegal or not.

I heard of several travllers that were walking from Sichuan or Yunnan.

Generally, it is best to maintain a low profile. Draw as little
attention as possible towards you. It's not the tourist that the Chinese
fear, but the politically involved and caring person. This does not mean
that you should not care about Tibetan politics, just that you should be
careful in when and where you show your views.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.6 MONEY

The currency is the Chinese Yuan, divided into 10 jiao or 100 fen.

The exchange rate is about USD 1 = 8.3 CNY (Aug 1995)
(Historical development: 8.7 in Jan 1994, 5.762 in 1993, 5.5146 in 1992,
5.3234 in 1991, 4.7832 in 1990, 3.7651 in 1989)

The FEC (Foreign Exchange Certificate) was finally abolished in January
1994.

Travellers cheques denominated in most major currencies are accepted
in every bank. You normally get a better exchange rate than for cash.

Most larger hotels, restaurants and department stores accept credit cards.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.7 ACOMMODATION

Except for one or two luxury hotels in Lhasa, accommodation in Tibet is
fairly basic, but also cheap (for some USD 1 to 5.)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.8 FOOD

Food is often quite scarce in Tibet. Apart from Lhasa, only Shigatse
seems to have a reasonable food supply. For trips outside these towns,
make sure bring enough food with you.

Apart from Tibetan you'll also get Chinese food.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.9 HEALTH

A big problem is the high altitude with the thin air. Many people suffer
from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Until your body has become
accustomed to the thin air (much less oxygen than normally), you may
experience dizziness, nausea, headache and difficulties with sleeping.
Make sure you don't dehydrate (i.e. drink a lot.) Avoid alcohol and
tobacco.

Of course the cold weather makes it very likely that you get a cold and
a cough. Take care to get enough vitamins.

There is the same stomach bug named giardia that is also found in Nepal.
Take enough anti-gardia drugs like Flagyl or Tiniba with you, they are
hard to find in Tibet.

Don't drink tap water. Even in the smallest guest houses in the remotest
villages there are thermos bottles with boilt water. It is used to drink
tea.

There are many dogs in the streets and near the monasteries. There are
reports of foreigners beeing bitten.

**************************************************************************

2. TRANSPORTATION

There is a general shortage of transportation.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.1 FLYING

There are flights from Chengdu and Chongqing, and reportedly also from
Urumqi.

During the summer there is a flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. It is
operated by Nepal Air.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.2 BUS

There is a bus from Golmud to Lhasa which takes about 40 hours on a bumpy
road.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.3 CAR

It is possible to rent a landcruiser.

Attention: Do not rent throught the CITS-Shigatse agency (next to
Tashi's No 2 restaurant.) There are reports of one driver attacking his
passengers with rocks and robbing them. His name is Tsering and he
drives a white Toyota Landcruiser license no. 0591.

**************************************************************************

3. PLACES

LHASA

Situated 3683 m above sea level, Lhasa has long been the political and
spiritual capital of Tibet. Its main attraction is of course the huge
Potala Palace. Also interesting is the Jokhang Temple.

Potala Palace
Built in the 17th century, the Potala is one of the architectural
wonders of the world, containing thousands of rooms. It stands at the
site of older structures, dating back another thousand years. Before the
Chinese occupation it was the center of the Tibetan government and the
winter residence of the Dalai Lama.

Jokhang Temple
One of Tibet's holiest shrines, it was built some 1300 years ago in
celebration of the marriage of the Tang princess Wen Cheng and King
Songtsen Gampo. It houses a golden statue of the Buddha Sukyiamuni
brought by the princess.

Norbu Lingka
The former summer residence of the Dalai Lama is about three km west of
the Potala.

Accommodation

There are many budget places in Tibet. The Banak Shol, Kirey Hotel, Yak
Hotel and Plateau Hotel all are about USD 3 for a single room.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHIGATSE

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet. It is the seat of Panchen
Lama who ranks close to the Dalai Lama. The Panchen Lama is a
reincarnation of Amitabha, the Buddha of Infinite Light. Currently, the
10th Panchen Lama reigns from Beijing.

Tashilhunpo Monastery
The huge monastery, built in 1447, was once inhabited by over 4000
monks. Nowadays, only 600 remain there. It is the seat of the Panchen
Lama. The Grand Hall contains the tomb (containing more than 85 kg gold
and lots of jewels) of the 4th Panchen Lama. There is a 27 m high statue
of the Maitreya Buddha.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
SAKYA

The huge monastery represents the former power of the Sakayapa sect,
founded in the 11th century. It contains the most valuable collection of
Tibetan religious items remaining in Tibet.

**************************************************************************

4. LITERATURE

4.1 GUIDEBOOKS

Moon Publications Tibet Handbook (ISBN 0-918373-90-5).
  This is the most extensive travel guide about Tibet. It has a lot of
  maps with many detailed descriptions of treks.

Tibet - A Travel Survivel Kit, Lonely Planet
  Contains many good hints about travelling. Has good lists of hotels,
  restaurants, etc.

China - A Travel Survivel Kit, Lonely Planet
  Not as extensive as the Tibet Survival Kit.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES

Theroux, Paul. Riding the Iron Rooster.
  Although mainly concerned with travelling by train, it also has an
  interesting chapter where the author describes his trip by bus from
  Glmud into Tibet.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL

Avedon, John.  In Exile from the Land of Snows.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.4 INTERNET

An archive with many tips and a lot of stories is
ftp://ftp.cc.umanitoba.ca/pub/rec-travel  (130.179.16.8)

A newsgroup concentrating on the political aspects of Tibet is
talk.politics.tibet

*********************************************************************
Peter M. Geiser
Seeblickstr. 10
9010 St. Gallen
SWITZERLAND
geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com
*********************************************************************




