Kullu
Valley belongs to the Gods and sages and heavenly happenings are 'daily
encounters' for the innocent villagers who smile and cry within the ambience
of the mystic land. Their 'belief system' is the deep rooted. Every village
has its own God and every day is planned by His wish as local MLA and HPCC
Chairman Chander Sen Thakur laments!
Some two kilometers away from modern
Manali town which was earlier known as Dana Bazar there are two villages,
Aleo and Chooga, whose ishtadeva is Brahman named Shristi Nangji.
It is a matter of anthropological interest that there is a living medium
called 'Gur'. In a state of trance he dictates the 'wish of God'. Roshan, a
local village boy narrated that this place is even used to 'vouch' or take
the 'oath' of truthfulness. When judiciary is doubted they refer people to
take oath before the Gur.
In every village such a story plays a prominent role
and enthuse people to live an honest life. This is the contemporary
sacredness of Manali. Yet Manali remains mythologically Manualaya or the
abode of Manu who remains the seed of living creatures. The story centres
around Manu Mandir.
According to mythology Brahma, the creator of the
universe, created first Manu and Manu in turn created all the creatures of
world. Initially there was water was all around. Manu and his wife were
afloat in a boat cruising in search of land. The first land sighted came
to be known as Manualaya. It was later accepted as the gate of creation.
Today there is a unique new temple called Manu Mandir.
The temple has a monolith stone statue of Vishnu on the
left of Manu and on the right is Brahma. The latest addition is Shiva to
complete the Trinity of the gods. There is a pyre beneath the temple which
is perhaps unparalleled in the temple tradition of India. The story goes
that there used to be a demon called Tundi who used to kill human beings.
Manu intervened and said the demon could have dead bodies if he desisted
from killing living beings. Furthermore Manu promised to worship him as
well. Since then 11 logs of wood are kept beneath the temple on a pyre to
appease the demon, Tundi. People say some 70-80 years ago people used to
burn the deat here as ordered by Manu.
In the month of Magh (January) an eleven day fair
called Fhagli is celebrated to appease the demon Tundi. On this day liquor
is offered followed by dance and festivity. The Manu temple is also linked
to another festival called Chatt festival which celebrates the birth of
Manu. It is held after the festival of Diwali which is some time in
November this year.
It is interesting to note that the people of Manali go
in procession to a village called Goushal every alternate year and people
from Goushal come to Manali. In this three day festival Manu Rishi and
Mata Hiramba go in a palanquin to Goushal village. The whole village
follow them in procession. After a community feast they return to Manali.
Similarly, from Goushal, Gautam Rishi, Vyas Rihi and Kanchan Nag are
brought in procession to Manali. The festivity of God and Man has been
continuing since time immemorial. Through festivity the ecclesiastical
spirit lives on and the temple remains the epicentre of spiritual
vibration.
A little up the woods is Dhoongri Temple also known as
Hidimba Devi Temple. According to hearsay she was a mountain belle rescued
from her evil brother by Bhima, one of the Pandav brothers in the epic,
Mahabharata. The temple symbolizes the Mother Goddess. Till date animal
sacrifice to appease the Mother Goddess is in practice. The temple, made
of timber, is unique from the architectural point of view. The pagoda type
structure was erected in 1553 AD. It is said the Pandavas spent their
period of exile in Kullu. The world famous of Kullu Dussehra is linked
with the ceremonial opening or closing of Hidimba Devi Temple.
There are masks and antler horns hung around the
temple. The series of wooden carvings of animal motifs are exquisite. One
can see a unique symbolism where there is a body of a jumping lion with
the face of an elephant. an unparalleled factor in temple motifs and
designs.
A little away from old Manali, in the hills amidst
nature, is the Vasishtha Temple. Vasishtha was an ascetic who meditated
here for a thousand years. He was the Kul Guru of Shree Ram of the
Ramayana era and a worshipper of Shakti. He worshipped near the Arjoga
river (now known as Beas) during the Satya Yug (Golden Age).
It is interesting to know that the sulphur kund (hot spring) sprang
up out of Vasishtha's meditation. Desh Raj Sharma whose family has been
worshipping Vasishtha for five generations said that this land has
remained a seat of meditation for sages. People down the ages come here to
get blessed and besmear themselves with mineral water. There is also a
small akhara where ascetics gather for a religious discourse. In
Manali Gods and sages remain part of the people's ethos.