Srimate SrivanSatakopa Sri Vedanta Desika Yatindra Mahadesikaya nama:
The Lord Rides a Bird
There is an air of eager expectancy among the huge crowd that has assembled.
From the elderly to the babes in arms, everyone's eyes are fixed on the
entrance. Unwilling to miss even a second of the scintillating spectacle, none
takes their eyes off the space between the tall doors that stand wide open.
There is just standing space for everyone, with people standing shoulder to
shoulder, occupying all vantage points. The rich and poor jostle together and
the learned Vidvans rub shoulders with the unlettered, all barriers of social
and economic origin temporarily banished. All of them tingle with anticipation
of the unparalleled spectacle that is about to unfold. Though the event occurs
with predictable regularity, you would think, going by the fervour of the
assembled sea of humanity, that this would be the last such spectacle for the
century.
"Will you come to the point?" enquires my daughter with exaggerated politeness.
However, readers would appreciate that there is nothing like a good build up to
set the proper tone to the article.
If there is one single event that never fails to attract a multitude, a single
annual occurrence that people eagerly look forward to, one spectacle that never
fails to enthral and enchant, it must definitely be the Kanchi Garuda Seva.
Though the annual Brahmotsavam for the Lord lasts ten days, with Emperuman
ensconced on different carriers or Vaahanams ranging from the solar orb to the
palanquin, it is definitely the Garuda Seva, which captures everyone's
imagination and is a terrific crowd-puller. Garudotsavam in general is an
extremely popular event with all and sundry. Based on scriptural texts, many
regard witnessing the utsavam as a sure-cure for even long-standing diseases.
And though the festival is celebrated at all the temples of the Lord, big and
small, the event at Kanchi has something special about it which can only be
experienced and not described.
The curtains open pretty early in the morning, at the Vaahana Mandapam inside
the temple, revealing the breath-taking spectacle of Deva Perumal ensconced on
His favourite carrier, Garuda. Bedecked in His numerous glittering and glorious
ornaments from head to foot, with His sacred feet stretched out to rest safely
in the wide palms of the beautiful bird, Sri Varadan presents a magnificent
sight to our sore eyes-a sight even the celestials, who keep constant company
with the Lord, would hate to miss. Clad in all His finery, with a beautiful
headgear, Sri Tepperumal leans back regally, every bit the Magnificent
Monarch-Devaadi Rajan. The pockmarks on His divine countenance, signifying His
origins from the sacrificial fires, add to His boundless beauty. As always, He
sports the Sudar Azhi and Ven Sankham-the Divine Discus and the Cosmic Conch--
which He is loathe to part with even for a second, for fear that it might delay
a rescue mission for saving a devotee. Huge garlands encircle His tirumeni,
trying in vain to add to His fragrance.
And down below, Garuda presents no less of an enthralling sight. His
countenance bears a broad and beautiful smile, obviously occasioned by the
pride and privilege of carrying the Parabrahmam itself on his shoulders. What
adds to his delight is the honour of bearing both the Lord's feet in his palms.
If you look close enough, Garuda's clutch of the Lord's tiruvadis is extremely
gentle, reflecting his fear that these delicate feet might get bruised even
with tender handling. His long beak curved majestically, Garuda appears ready
to take off, with one knee bent and poised for flight.
Even in these wee hours, a virtual sea of humanity gathers at the spot, to
pay obeisance to the stationary Lord. And precisely at 4a.m., a loud cracker
goes off, signifying the start of the proceedings. Immediately, the Lord
launches on His sojourn, to the delight of everyone present. After leaving His
dressing room (the Vaahana Mandapam), the Lord pauses a moment at the lower
steps, as if to afford all His devotees an opportunity to drink in His
splendour. Thereafter, there is no stopping Him. Circling the temple corridor,
Sri Varadaraja presents honours to His devoted servants of yore-Sri Nammazhwar,
Sri Ramanuja, Swami Desikan and Sri Manavala Mamunigal. In the dimly lit
Praakaaram of the temple, the Lord presents a tantalising spectacle, half-seen
and half-unseen. After pausing for the commencement of Aruliccheyal recital,
Teppurumal arrives finally at the Gopura Vaasal, to the delight of all those
assembled there. A huge cry of "Varada!" goes up, emanating from thousands of
lips simultaneously the Lord stands there majestically, with a huge ball of
camphor lit to display Him in all His magnificence. The huge umbrellas above
dip just for a moment, hiding His countenance-tradition has it that during that
second, Sri Varadan travels to Cholasimhapuram, to enable Sri Doddayacharyar to
have a glimpse of His splendour.
Once he leaves the temple entrance, Garuda gathers speed and carries Sri
Varadaraja with expedition, pausing only at a few places, en route to Gangai
Kondaan Mandapam in Siva Kanchi. The progress of the Lord along this route is a
spectacle to be witnessed and is remarkable for its speed, majesty and
magnificence. The speed makes it look as if the Lord, finding Garuda's pace
inadequate, spurs him on, literally running Himself-"Taarkshyam aaruhya
dhaavan". This is borne out by Sri Nammazhwar's line, "Odum Pul Eri". While it
may be natural for people to fly on birds, have you ever heard of anyone
running while riding a bird? This is what Emperuman does, practically running
while ensconced on Periya Tiruvadi. In His haste to save devotees in distress,
the Lord finds His carrier's speed inadequate and ends up running. We must
consider here that the Lord is riding on no ordinary bird, but the swiftest of
them all. Yet, His hurry makes Him impatient, just as we find the taxi's speed
inadequate, when we are in a tearing hurry, even though the driver might be
going at the maximum speed.
If we imagine that only we mortals are assembled in huge numbers at Kanchi to
witness this magnificent spectacle, we would be sadly mistaken, says Swami
Desikan. The thirty-three crore and odd Devatas, led by Indra, Agni, Vayu and
others, line the streets of Kanchi, hoping to sanctify themselves with the dust
raised by the Lord's majestic progress on Garuda, says the Acharya in the
following sloka from Hamsa Sandesam-
"Taam aaseedan pranama nagareem bhakti namrena moordhnaa
Jaataam aadou Krita yuga mukhe Dhaatu: icchaa vasena
Yat veetheenaam Karigiripate: vaaha veha avadhootaan
Dhanyaan renoom tridasa patayo dhaarayanti uttamaangai:"
Thus, exalted Devas stand shoulder to shoulder with us mortals at Kanchi,
(though invisible) their heads bowed in devotion and poised to receive the
sacred dust generated from the speedy progress of the Lord on Vainateya.
Any account of the Kanchi Garudotsavam would be incomplete without a mention of
the Veda Parayana Ghoshti, who follow the Lord wherever He goes, singing His
praises as recorded by the Veda Purusha. These mahatmas mind neither the hot
sun blazing above nor the blistering heat of the tarred roads, but continue
their resonant intonation with all sincerity and devotion, never leaving their
Lord for a second, till He returns to His abode, safe and sound. It is the Veda
Ghoshti at Kanchi which springs to our mind, whenever mention is made of ananya
prayojana kainkarya paras, sincere servants of the Lord who seek or expect
nothing from Him but the pleasure of constant service to Him and His votaries.
With the large and distinguished Divya Prabanda Ghoshti ahead of Him and the
Veda Parayana Ghoshti trailing Him, Varadan's face is wreathed in a beatific
smile, reflecting His enjoyment of the branches of Shruti, one is Tamizh and
the other in Sanskrit.
The Garuda Vahanam is the most Vaidika vahanam of all. If you think I am
exaggerating, do listen to the Shruti, which admits that this Divine Bird is
indeed the embodiment of all Vedas. It is not for nothing that Sri Alavandar
describes him as "Vedaatma" (the soul of all scripture). Describing the Lord's
triumphant travel across the skies, the Shruti tells us that the various Vedic
metres are but parts of Garuthman's magnificent body, constituting a chariot in
which Emperuman rides majestically-
"Tasya Gayatri Jagati cha pakshou abhavataam,
Ushnik cha Trishtup cha prishtyou,
Anushtup cha Panktischa dhuryou,
Brihati eva uktirabhavat,
sa evam cchando ratham aastthaaya etam adhvaanam anu samacharat".
And this is what Sri Varadaraja's progress along the streets Kanchi reminds us
of. It is as if the Paramapurusha Himself has come down to Kanchi, to let us
all have a glimpse of how He travels in style.
It is perhaps a unique distinction of this Vaahanam that it figures
specifically in Bhootattaazhwar's tribute, specifically extolling the praises
of the Lord atop the Great Bird-"Atthi ooraan pullai oorvaan" says Azhwar, who
too has been apparently impressed beyond measure by the Garuda Sevai. The
magnificence of this Emperuman has mesmerised not only Sri Vaishnavas of all
hues and persuasion, but everyone irrespective of caste, creed, religion or
even race, as would be evident from the composition of the crowd thronging the
festival. Proof, if such were needed, of this Lord's votaries transcending
races, is available in the form of the Makara Kandi, a priceless jewel offered
to Perarulaalan with love and devotion by Robert Clive of the East India
Company.
The weather is oppressive and makes you sweat like a pig; the crowds are huge
and push and pummel you till you are sore in every limb;
the policemen don't let you stand anywhere in peace, in their anxiety to avoid
a stampede; and wherever you do stand, a taller person stations himself right
in your line of vision, with his devotion prompting him to extend his hands
above his head, thereby further blocking your view. However, all these minor
inconveniences disappear in a trice, once you have your eyes' fill of Sri
Varadaraja and His splendour. For that moment, you are unable to think of
anything but His magnificence, His majesty, His brilliance and His beauty
beyond compare. Your eyes fill with involuntary tears-"aananda kanneer"-caused
by the blissful experience. You now realise what made Swami Desikan vow to
forego even Paradise and opt for a constant sight of Devapperumal in His
various vaahanams-"Satyam sape Vaarana saila naatha! Vaikunta vaasepi na me
abhilaasha:"
It is no accident that the Lord dresses Himself and gets atop His various
vaahanams at the Vaahana Mandapam, which is also the sannidhi of Swami Desikan.
True to his ardent wish that he should constantly enjoy Emperuman's splendour
in His various carriers, without even a moment's interruption caused by the
blinking of the eye, ("anudinam animeshai: lochanai: niriviseyam") the Lord
confers upon the Acharya the rare privilege of enjoying the entire proceedings
from extremely close quarters.
We have heard of people entrusting their souls to the Lord. A special feature
of this year's Garuda Sevai was that one gentleman had entrusted his yellow
cloth bag and its contents to Garuda, hanging it from the Divine Bird's
fingers, apparently to ensure its safekeeping. This has been captured for
posterity by a candid camera, which has faithfully recorded this "Bhara
Samarpanam".
Srimate Sri LakshmiNrisimha divya paduka sevaka SrivanSatakopa Sri Narayana
Yatindra Mahadesikaya nama:
dasan, sadagopan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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