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HOP LINE: Tis the Saison


by Evan Crouch
It’s a real treat to step outside this time of year. Sweet floral aromas waft through the evening breeze. Vibrant colors abound. Coats of fresh pollen dust every square inch of outdoor real estate, inducing the occasional sneeze. All these signs point to one undeniable truth: Spring has sprung.

Culinary traditions often attempt to make use of seasonal produce in order to accompany the flavors and aromas of a given time of year. Craft beer is no different. I often reflect on just why I like beer so much, and commonly arrive at the conclusion that it changes with the seasons, offering year-round variety and newness. As readers of this column can attest, much attention is devoted here to the seasonal dimension of brewing. Beer is a versatile template, one upon which we can project our seasonal traditions and hone our notions of what is best in life at a particular time of year.

Photo Courtesy of cogocogo@Flickr.com

The beer style that perhaps best exemplifies the essence of spring is saison. From the French word for “season,” saisons are also sometimes referred to as “farmhouse ales.” This moniker harkens back to the origins of the style. First brewed in Belgian farmhouses, saisons are native to the Wallonia region in the southern half of the country. Saisons were traditionally brewed in autumn, then allowed to mature over winter to be brought out for consumption in the spring. This style was rationed out to farmhands as a refreshing, nutritious and not overly alcoholic tipple to go with their midday meal. Traditional saisons are below 4 percent alcohol by volume, but modern-day versions can get several percentage points higher.

The sensory experience of saison is what really sets it apart as a style. Expect striking aromas of fresh fruit, often with a twang of overripe tartness. The foam on a saison when poured into a wide-mouthed glass is especially pillowy and cloud-like. Belgian brewing yeast strains offer an array of fruit flavors, mixed in with earthy undertones and a snap of dry spice in the finish. Tangy Belgian malted barley accentuates the spiciness. Bottle conditioning, where the yeast still remains in solution after bottling, gives a saison a satisfying bit of grit to its texture. A good saison ought to include these key elements.

As far as this beer drinker is concerned, Saison Dupont is the gold standard for the style. Brewed by the Brasserie Dupont in Tourpes, this version is slightly stronger than traditional saisons, clocking in at 6.5 percent. I’m always struck by the ripe pear-skin aroma that billows out of the bottle. It’s a crisp, dry drink with just the right amount of citrusy spice and musky earthy notes. This beer goes great with food, especially salads. It’s sure to pull out flavors you never noticed before.
While the Belgian versions are of course the most authentic, American brewers make saisons that are no slouch. Ommegang Brewery in New York makes the Hennepin farmhouse ale that’s just about as close to a true Belgian saison as one can get. It has all the right saison notes, with perhaps a little extra fresh baked-bread character in the finish. The Hennepin is devilishly deceptive in its strength; you’ll never know it’s more than 7.5 percent because it’s such a smooth drink. Another great value American saison that comes in at a particularly good price point is Victory Brewing’s Helios farmhouse ale. Helios also conveniently comes in the 22-ounce bottle format.

If you’ve never tried a saison before, now’s the time of the year to experience it. The following is a recipe for a strawberry spring salad and sweet basil vinaigrette that should complement a saison nicely and gently remind us of the beauty of the spring season. (Adapted from Southern Living, April 2012)

Strawberry Spring Salad
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups trimmed fresh sugar snap peas (about 5 ounces)
1 4-ounce package baby arugula
2 cups sliced fresh strawberries
1 cup seeded and chopped English cucumber
3/4 cup frozen baby English peas, thawed
4 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
6 cooked bacon slices, coarsely chopped

Method
Arrange sugar snap peas in a steamer basket over boiling water. Cover and steam one to two minutes or until crisp-tender. Plunge peas into ice water to stop the cooking process; drain. Cut peas diagonally in half.
Toss together arugula, next five ingredients and sugar snap peas on a large serving platter. Serve with Sweet Basil Vinaigrette.

Sweet Basil Vinaigrette
Ingredients
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
2 shallots, chopped
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup canola oil

Method
Process first eight ingredients in a blender until smooth. With blender running, add canola oil in a slow, steady stream, processing until smooth.