Re: [compost_tea] discing weeds

From: <soilfoodweb_at_aol.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 01:16:13 EDT

In a message dated 9/25/2003 9:48:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mjbosko_at_jmtsystems.com writes:


> Dr E., being that we're talking about discing weeds (green) wouldn't that
> make the bacteria the most important consumer over the fungi? As the fungi go
> for the brown stuff, bacteria the green. I realize that given plants
> require specific B:F ratios - but for this purpose a B dominant brew seems best?
>
> Mike

When discing in weeds when green means the bacteria will be the first bloom
of organisms growing on the simple sugars, proteins, fats, lipids, etc in the
green material. The finer you disc, the bigger the bloom, or greater the
bacterial increase.

But after the bacteria finish their first bloom, then the fungi start doing
their thing. Bacteria and fungi seem to compete, and bacteria will beat fungi
to the foods when the foods are simple, sugary, juicy material. Once the
bacteria are done, however, the fungi use the cellulose, the structurally complex
sugars, proteins, lipids, fats, waxes, hormones, phenols, humins, etc.

So, use of green material recapitulates succession, and the steps we talk
about in SFI about building soil structure. Bacteria first, to build
microaggregates, fungi second to build macroaggregates. Protozoa and nematodes, and if
you are lucky, microarthropods, wake up in the spring and build the next layer
of soil structure.

So, which brew to put down in the fall? You need a balanced brew - and as
fungi are difficult to get to do their thing in the tea, try to make the tea as
fungal as possible. Use a compost that has at least good-range fungal
biomass. Use kelp or rock powder to give the fungi a place to attach while in the
brew so they feel comfortable and will grow for you. (Sounds like I talk to
fungi, doesn't it? Not really, we just note that time and again, the fungi do
not germinate and grow unless they have a surface to attach to).

If you use good moist worm compost, it seems like there's enough soluble
bacterial food in the worm compost that you don't need to add molasses. So, maybe
we can drop using that component, unless you use thermal compost. Thermal
composts seem to need some bacterial food to let them grow.

Hope this helps - let me know if you have more questions.

Elaine
President, Soil Foodweb Inc.
www.soilfoodweb.com
SFI Oregon, USA
SFI Australia
SFI New York
SFI Europe
SFI New Zealand

"Hope is not a feeling. It is not the belief that things will turn out well,
but the conviction that what we are doing makes sense, no matter how things
turn out." -- Vaclav Havel, former President of the Czech Republic





Received on Sun Sep 28 2003 - 10:52:38 EDT

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