Re: [compost_tea] Q's: Applying Compost Tea

From: kevin john richardon <kmagic_at_backpacker.com>
Date: 2 Jun 2003 04:33:34 -0000

The brief given in the Compost Tea Brewing Manual under the topic of Application Methods(pg. 50) mentions, "No more than 600 to 100 psi should be used to spray out organisms ;they should not hit any surface at more than 20 to 80 psi pressure."

This indicates to me that tea may have a threshold of 80 psi when coming into contact with applied surfaces, yet 600 psi is considersed tolerable for line pressure; so the dudes can "travel" at up to 600 psi, yet must "land" under 80 psi.


peace ~ Kev

On Fri, 30 May 2003 13:11:52 -0700 Jason Austin <jason.austin_at_shaw.ca> wrote:
Hi Ray

ray gore wrote:

> your only supposed to be spraying between 40-80psi

My post showed the pressure rating of my pump. I think you are
speaking of the pressure while spraying. There is a huge difference.
I'm not knowledgeable in this area, but I expect you would find there is
an inverse relationship between the GPM and the pressure. Block all
your nozzles and you will have your highest pressure; have lots of
nozzles open and a high flow and you will have low spray pressure. ie
 low flow=high pressure high flow=low pressure


Jason

>
> --- Jason Austin <jason.austin_at_shaw.ca> wrote:
> > Hi Kevin
> >
> > What are you towing the sprayer with? - 325 gallons
> > is quite a weight
> > depending on what you are using and also what you
> > are driving over. You
> > will also need to factor in the weight of whatever
> > the tank is sitting on.
> >
> > I have my sprayer on the 3 point hitch of my
> > tractor driven by the PTO.
> > I have a diaphram pump 14 gpm and either
> > 200-400psi - I forget which.
> > Works well. I mounted a mast sprayer that goes up
> > 15' with 8 spray
> > nozzles, and can be lifted out and used as a boom
> > sprayer.
> >
> > You don't need an air compressor to drive a diaphram
> > pump - just a drive
> > source such as the tractor PTO or say an 11hp Honda
> > motor. A 5 gpm pump
> > is quite a small pump particularly for a 325 gallon
> > tank. I think you
> > would be better to go for a bigger pump particularly
> > if you are using a
> > boom - the 5 gpm will not feed many nozzles. If
> > the pump is running
> > but you are not spraying then a release valve
> > recycles the extra back
> > into the tank.
> >
> > An air source of some sort may be desirable to keep
> > the CT aerated while
> > you are setting up and spraying - depends on the
> > time there will be
> > between getting the CT from your brewer until your
> > are finished spraying.
> >
> > In addition to the mast sprayer I have a wand on a
> > long hose for doing
> > those one off jobs. And I put a 1" drain on the
> > bottom of my tank that
> > runs to a garden hose fitting. This allows me to do
> > a soil drench
> > without running the brew through the pump, and a
> > gravity fed line is a
> > lot more peaceful than blasting away with a pressure
> > pump. Also makes
> > cleaning a lot easier. So in all I have three
> > ways to get the CT out
> > - and I use all three.
> >
> > I got a lot of help from my local feed store that
> > sells farm
> > accessories. Try talking with someone like that or
> > a tractor dealer.
> > Even if you are not using a tractor, the farm
> > equipment people will
> > have a lot of experience with spraying.
> >
> > Finally, watch out for the commercial spray tanks.
> > The ones I saw had
> > molded feet so there would always be small amount of
> > liquid in them -
> > maybe not a problem for chemicals but a real bear
> > for those of us using
> > compost tea that we don't want turning anaerobic.
> > I held out and
> > eventually got a round flat bottomed 200 gallon
> > tank. I firgured that
> > would be fine for my tractor because my 3 point
> > hitch is rated at
> > 2,240lbs. But I forgot to allow for the weight of
> > the pump and the
> > steel frame to hold the tank! I had the frame
> > custom made and the guy
> > built it like a sherman tank - easily a 1,000lbs .
> > Then the pump is a
> > good 40lbs. Result? - I can only put 100 gallons
> > in the tank :-D
> > Well we live and learn <grin>
> >
> > Don't rush into this - think carefully about what
> > you are trying to
> > achieve then get advice about how to get there. I
> > do recommend the
> > three different ways of getting your CT out of the
> > sprayer - the
> > interchangeable mast/boom; a wand; and a drain for
> > gravity feeding and
> > cleaning.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Jason
> >
> > kevin john richardon wrote:
> >
> > > Glen~
> > >
> > > Thanks for responding. Good advice. I would like
> > to set up and spray
> > > at will!, so I think I will be investing in a 325
> > gal tank (best I can
> > > match to my payload and remain trailerless;
> > although the decision is
> > > also based on current local availability ), spray
> > at about 5 gpm (to
> > > get an acre out of my dilution and meet percieved
> > time requirements),
> > > which will determine the legnth of my necessary
> > spray bredth.
> > >
> > > Now if I could decide on a diaphram pump, engine
> > and air compressor
> > > (does one necessarily need air compression to
> > drive a diaphram) that
> > > will allow me to dial in flow, psi, and gpm, I
> > would be getting
> > > somewhere! maybe? By the way it would be awesome
> > to configure a
> > > system which will be compatible with a behind the
> > cab style boom!
> > >
> > > What type of equipment do you use to spray?
> > >
> > > ciao~ kev
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, 29 May 2003 14:25:51 -0000 growest2002
> > <g.w.thomson_at_shaw.ca>
> > > wrote:
> > > <html><body>
> > >
> > >
> > > <tt>
> > > Kevin-maybe I can give my 1 cents worth on soil
> > drenching.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > As you pointed out, adding a reasonable
> > &quot;depth&quot; of water to
> > > an acre<BR>
> > > of <BR>
> > > land involves enormous amounts of water.&nbsp; And
> > yes, this water
> > > should <BR>
> > > be dechlorinated from what everyone has shared on
> > this list.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > My tiny bit of experience this year has led me
> > personally to use our <BR>
> > > spring rains to soak in these soil drenches,
> > rather than trying to<BR>
> > > add <BR>
> > > enough carrier water to move the AACT into the
> > root zone.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > By watching the weather forecast, along with the
> > very wet spring we <BR>
> > > have had in the Pacific Northwest (south of you
> > tho!) I've been able <BR>
> > > to drench soil and nursery containers prior to or
> > during 1/2 to 1 in.
> > > <BR>
> > > rainfall events here.&nbsp; So much faster and
> > more effective than
> > > trying <BR>
> > > to provide those thousands of gallons of
> > dechlorinated water myself.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > I'm just not sure I'd try to duplicate that now
> > that the substantial <BR>
> > > rains are done till fall...just plan on doing all
> > the soil drench <BR>
> > > during the spring or after fall rains have
> > started.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > This isn't applicable to other areas with quite
> > different weather <BR>
> > > patterns, but wonder what others in the wet coast
> > applying tea think <BR>
> > > of my take on this.<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > And thanks Kevin for bringing this subject
> > up.&nbsp; An acre inch is
> > > that <BR>
> > > much water...I know I'll never be able to apply
> > that economically and
> > > <BR>
> > > get paid enough to do it!<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > Glen<BR>
> > > <BR>
> > > --- In compost_tea_at_yahoogroups.com, &quot;kevin
> > john richardon&quot; <BR>
> > > &lt;kmagic_at_b...&gt; wrote:<BR>
> > > &gt; Howdy Pards,<BR>
> > > &gt; <BR>
> > > &gt; I am slightly embarrassed (but not really,
> > cause I make mistakes
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
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Kevin John Richardson
Local Solutions
19025 Villages Scenic Pkwy
Anchorage, AK 99516
(907) 522 0679 Land
auto forwards to :
(907) 317 8455 Cell
kmagic_at_backpacker.com



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Received on Mon Jun 02 2003 - 02:15:17 EDT

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