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Re: GBlist: insulated concrete forms

Terry,
I was very skeptical at first of such a "New Wheel".  I have been in
concrete construction all my life. We used the old method of plywood forms
(9-ply) and diesel for form release agent. Then along came these forms to
our area,  We have not used the "old" method since. There's probably $30,000
worth of plywood forms now untouched since then.  So much less labor, materials.
Costs of EPS block above or below grade varies of course with each job.  But
an average we have seen has been between $8-12.00 per square foot of wall.
Complexity of design makes price go up. Square basements run (30'x40') about
$8.00 sq.ft.  This is block, labor, materials,
(concrete,rebar,fasteners,scaffolding,door& window bucks,pumps,bracing etc.)

CMU block runs in this area at $6.50 square foot and up. Split face is $7.50
sq.ft.
All joints struck.
Poured walls vary also. Under 8' high (Plywood size) start around $7.90 sq. ft.
Tall walls (over 8') $9.00 sq.ft. If no offsets in wall and  four corners. 
Comparitive costs are similar but the big difference is YOU ARE ALREADY
INSULATED.  Structural, insulated, poured solid concrete wall in ONE step.

Things to avoid:
Really wet concrete! pouring must be done around a 4-6" slump maximum.
Avoid any petrolium based products, don't apply those kind of water proofing,
or for adhesives of drywall, or adhesives of the block. ( we use expanding
foam adhesives)
Attaching drywall or siding, use screws. Do not have to be self tapping.
Our product has steel furring strips to attach to.( every one foot)
Important to do's:
Brace the forms like it says in the manual, use a foam adhesive(enerfoam),
string line the walls for straight BEFORE you pour concrete in them! Never
accept concrete that's too wet. Send it back. I have had to only do that
twice now in 15 years.  So unlikely you'll run into that.
Start out on a FLAT AND LEVEL AND SQUARE FOUNDATION, A MUST. If the slab or
footings are not right you'll chase the problems to the roof.
We use a RUB_R_WALL foundation waterproofer and I think it is the most green
of any waterproofing products.
We do not have any insect problems (subterrain termites) here in this area.
They do make a flashing insert to put in the block above the grade level of
back fill.
The finish materials typically are :
Interior.. drywall screwed to the block, or paneling screwed to the block,
or plaster applied to the block.  The first two can be put on with adhesives
( i prefer a more positive connection)
Exterior...Any exterior product you'd like can be applied.EIFS stucco,
traditional stucco, brick, stone, cultures stone, lap siding, panel
material, hardi plank, vinyl sidings, etc....
Once completed, the home looks like a regular home. Except for the deep
window sills.
Hope this info will help you or be of use to you.
Darrin 
>Hi,
>
>Although I've tried lots of new stuff in buildings, I've never used any of
>the styrene foam concrete forms that stay in place after the concrete is
>poured and provide an insulated concrete wall.  I am interested in the
>experience people have had with these systems, above and below grade.  I'm
>interested in comparative costs, the important things to do and avoid when
>using them, moisture dynamics, insect protection and finishing details for
>interior and exterior.  Anything you have to say, I want to hear, and will be
>grateful.  - Terry
>______________________________________________________________________
Thanks again,

Darrin Thornton @ Polysteel Alternative Building Systems, Inc.
664 Hillandale Circle
Eagle Point, Oregon 97524
Office 541-830-FORM (3676)  Fax 541-830-3611
cell phone email text only  5419443626@mobile.att.net
EMAIL: epsform@cdsnet.net
www.cdsnet.net/Business/Polysteel
That's about all the electronic leashes I want!!

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