[compost_tea] Re: Tilling

From: Susan Cruver <scruver_at_msn.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 16:26:04 -0800

Hi everyone,

David's comments about tilling are very astute. However, for most rules, e=
xceptions exist and I believe that is true with respect to tilling. Consid=
er David's list of the problems with tilling, none of which I contest EXCEP=
T if the soil has none of the characteristics listed. Other comments can b=
e found after the David's list:

  The wise people of the Internet have mentioned the following
  problems with tilling. Some have been mentioned elsewhere on this
  list. Tilling...
  1. Pulverizes the soil aggregate structure caused by beneficial
  microbial glues leaving a fluffy mineral dust which the bacteria
  must start over with to reform a structure.
  2. Eliminates the earthworm tunnels which provide air and water
  deep into the soil.
  3. Eliminates fungal hyphal tunnels which provide air and water
  deeper into the soil.
  4. Shreds fungal hyphae killing them off.
  5. Brings the bottom dwelling microbes to the surface to die.
  6. Sends the top dwelling microbes to the bottom to die.
  7. Blows carbon dioxide out of the soil and temporarily replaces it
  with oxygen.


  Me again: Some "soils" don't have much in the way of aggregate structure=
, earthworm tunnels, fungal hyphae or hyphal tunnels, top or bottom dwellin=
g microbes or carbon dioxide because they lack structure. I see this all t=
he time with newly constructed homes in my fast-growing area and experience=
d it myself when I moved into a 3-year-old house 5 years ago. I was deligh=
ted to have the same sandy loam texture but soon discovered the dirt had no=
 life (which is why I call it dirt instead of soil). Therefore it had no a=
ggregate structure, invertibrate/microbe tunnels and probably very little i=
n the way of microbial life in the soil, although I knew nothing of Soil Fo=
odweb and didn't test the awful stuff. When we moved in during the annual =
maritime Pacific Northwest drought season, I discovered that a pickax was r=
equired to dig any holes deeper than 1/2 inch.

  In some areas, I rototilled compost in for a couple of years. Other area=
s were topdressed with compost. Some areas got no compost, but like the co=
mposted areas, received compost tea for the last four seasons. Some areas =
have received no attention other than visits from the mulching mower. The =
areas in which compost was rototilled in (and subsequently top dressed) hav=
e the deepest, best soil on the property. I wouldn't till it again for any=
thing but I would happily till the entire area that was affected (= soil =
killed) by construction. As they say, if you've got nothing, you've got no=
thing to lose.

  The areas which were top dressed and given many drenchings of tea are doi=
ng very well and support ornamental plants very well. Turfgrass that had a=
 few drenchings of tea (along with mulched grass from mowing) are doing muc=
h better and areas that have just received mulched grass are improving. I =
believe I can see where the microbes have migrated laterally as the nice tu=
rfgrass (tea + mulch) is expanding into the mulch only area. It looks simi=
lar to Dr. Elaine's photos showing lawns which have been treated with tea o=
n one half and not on the other, although the boundary between the two area=
s of my lawn are not as straight.

  Anyway, finally getting to my point: Look at the soil you (or your custo=
mer has) and till or refrain from tilling based on observation and SFI-styl=
e soil tests. And, when I till, I till in alfalfa meal or pellets from the=
 feed store along with the compost to add additional N in case the relative=
ly inexpensive compost I use is not completely composted. I simply can't a=
fford to till in 3 inches of vermicompost! My experience at home and in cu=
stomer's yards is that tilling can get results faster than just top dressin=
g in instances where the dirt is lacking life.

  Susan Cruver
  Tsunami Grows (was Tsunami Landscape Design)



Received on Thu Dec 04 2003 - 20:29:17 EST

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