RE: [compost_tea] fungi activity

From: John Cowan <vivax_at_northlink.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:11:59 -0700

Paulette,

I guess "how much" might be an issue. One or more pounds per 100 sq. feet is
a frequent suggestion by the authorities in these parts. These are INSANE
amounts if you value fungal activity at all. In fact these amounts and
higher are recommended to get rid of problems like Texas root rot. Years ago
I used 2#/100 sq. ft. in a 1/4 acre garden. The crop was good that year but
the soil test that winter showed much lower phosphate than previous years.
It took several years to get thing good again. 50#/acre or 2 oz per 100 sq.
ft. is a much more reasonable amount. Split applications would be better
too. Mix with other material to thin it out for even application or use a
liquid sulfur.

Obviously, "slapping people in the face" is not the way to educate. I prefer
to tell it like it is if I say anything, though. In my opinion, facilitating
a dubious and probably harmful technique doesn't really help anybody. I know
there is lots to explain about an honest biological approach. Real education
is not quick or simple and in my experience most people don't have the time
or inclination for understanding. I would rather work with a few people that
are already headed in the right direction. Maybe our demonstration of what
we are doing will turn some people around. The mainstay gardening/farming
paradigm has a 50 year head start.

John Cowan


-----Original Message-----
From: Paulette Mouchet [mailto:geomouchet_at_QNET.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 3:03 PM
To: compost_tea_at_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [compost_tea] fungi activity


John

I, too, live in the arid West and I know all this about sulfur.

I was thinking about this issue in terms of OTHER folks who feel the need to
adjust soil pH in spite of what WE (not they) know about biology.

The problem is there are lots of organic gardeners who are not enlightened
about the biological approach to soil/plant nutrition. They may never
become enlightened.

If one of these folks tells me they are going to add sulfur to lower their
soil pH, I have three options. First, smile and nod.

Second, go into a long explanation about soil biology and how it works, and
why they don't need sulfur, and why the expensive soil test they just had
done is wrong, and why the lab report is wrong, and why they need AACT, and
what AACT is, and how to make it, etc., etc., etc.

Or third, I can suggest a best time to apply the sulfur that will cause the
least damage to the biology. I prefer this approach. It's a way to gently
open the door to the biological approach without slapping the person in the
face. The person can either decide to learn more or not. (Hopefully, I've
just planted a seed that, will in time, germinate.) In either case, I've
given them the opportunity to make one small change in their cultural
practice (when to apply soil sulfur) that may make a real difference to
their soil biology.

I believe there is a road to travel between chemical gardening and
biological organic gardening. You'll find folks all along this road. Some
will make the journey to the end, others will be content somewhere in the
middle. In real life, I'm rarely talking to people at the biological
organic gardening end. I'm always looking for ways to make their journey
easier.

Paulette



 

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Received on Tue Jan 13 2004 - 21:27:31 EST

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