Re: [compost_tea] Mulch

From: <soilfoodweb_at_aol.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 16:27:30 EST

 
Hi Butch -
 
I like the Socratic method of teaching which results in people owning the
conclusions they come to, instead of having knowledge imposed from outside of
them. So, I often use the question approach to teaching.
 
I worked with Jon Rowley a little at the Inter-Bay P-Patch, and watched him
develop the burlap bag method. It works great in places that have good
moisture through the winter.


You wrote:
The Interbay Mulch is the use of a layer of burlap
placed over the top of various organic material that
you pile up on top of soil. Organic matter decomposes
much faster on top of the soil than it does if tilled
in as long as it is covered and kept moist and dark.
The byproducts of this process enrich and feed the
soil under it in some very interesting ways.



Elaine's comment:
Organic matter will decompose in soil just fine, if soil structure has been
built properly, and the organic matter can stay aerobic through the
decomposition process.
 
But of course, it is difficult to keep high concentrations of juicy organic
matter aerobic if they are buried in the soil. So, while possible to
compost, it is significantly more difficult.
 
 
You wrote:
A few years ago a four day course on soil ecology
was held at Oregon State University. This course was
attended by one of the Interbay site coordinators and
the idea of Interbay Mulch occured to him while
driving back to Seattle.


Elaine comments:
The instructors were Dr. Moldenke and myself. I'm pleased the course is
remembered!
 
You wrote:
The OSU microarthropod expert, Dr. Andy Moldenke,
said in his presentation that 90% of all soil
organisms live in the top inch of the soil. Dr. Elaine
Ingham of SoilFoodweb then said in her presentation
that plant health and productivity depends on that
biological activity in the soil. These two bits of
information inspired the concept of using a burlap
"cover" to create a deep,dark,and damp "litter layer".


Elaine's comment:
We have more data now to indicate that 90% of all soil organisms are not
restricted to the top inch of soil. Restriction to this top layer is a
situation that occurs when people have disturbed the soil, and caused compaction. Or
natural processes have resulted in compaction, preventing the roots from
growing deep into the soil.
 
You wrote:
The Inter bay Mulch attempts to expand the
conditions in that biologically active one inch litter
layer to 6, 12, or even 18 inches. The idea is to
recreate and magnify the natural conditions that
produce rich, fertile soil. The use of damp burlap
(coffee sacks are readily available in the Seattle
area but purchased burlap can be substituted) proved
to be the ideal material for enhancing the biological
activity associated with the humus production.


Elaine comment:
I think it is marvelous that this composting system begins to fix the
compaction problem, and get the organisms building soil structure deeper.
 
You wrote:
 Depending on your soil needs, and the amount of
organic material you have access to, you would build a
mulch 6" to 18" deep.

Mix the materials well and wet them down. Cover
over this with the burlap. The burlap should also be
damp. You could soak them in a large barrel (they will
be HEAVY) or water over the "hump" with a sprinkler
until everything is nice and damp. Monitor the pile
for moisture content and water if any materials are
dry. Decomposition comes to a halt when materials dry
out. The mulch will probably be reduced to 30% it's
original height when it is finished and will have
turned into a rich, dark and most importantly
biologicaly active humus.


Elaine comment:
Note that not nearly as great a weight loss occurs in this system, as
compared to thermal composting. The Interbay P-Patch mulch system really helps
fungi be more predominant, and thus not nearly as much loss occurs in this
system, because more of the decomposition is done by beneficial organisms.
 
You wrote:
The breakdown/decomposition time will vary
depending on your zone and the time of year you build
your mulch. Expect 4-6 months on average before you
can move the burlap aside and plant.

Interbay Mulched soil, according to the lab that
tested it, is "uniquely active".


Elaine comment:
Wasn't it SFI that tested the compost? Or maybe some other lab, as well as
SFI.
 
The InterBay P-Patch method is so easy. Even in dry climates, it can be
used, merely by putting a thicker layer of burlap, or felt sorts of materials,
and keeping them wetted adequately. Just be careful not to use any materials
that would possibly contribute toxic materials to the compost. Rugs that
have petroleum-based backing materials should perhaps not be used, for example.
 
Thank you, Butch, for reminding all of the folks on the list serve about how
to make great compost easily. Just remember to compost until the materials
have become not-recognizable as what they originally were.
 
And I think it is appropriate to talk about composting here, since we need
to be able to make good compost in order to make good tea.
 
I believe that Jon liked to turn the contents of the "humps" if the material
 ever started to smell bad. The bad smells seemed to attract the
scroungers, as I recall him saying once, so a little aeration seemed to help, if the
pile was getting too compacted.
 
Again, thanks for the reminder about a great group of people!



Elaine R. Ingham
Soil Foodweb Inc., Corvallis, Oregon
Soil Foodweb Inc., Port Jefferson, New York
Soil Foodweb Institute, Lismore Australia
Soil Foodweb Institute Cambridge, New Zealand
Laboratorios de Soil Foodweb, Culiacan, Mexico
Soil Foodweb Inc., Jerome, Idaho
Soil Foodweb Inc., South Africa








Received on Sun Mar 06 2005 - 01:16:21 EST

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